# A Hairdresser's Experience in High Life/Chapter 3

CHAPTER II.
ENGLAND.
We arrived in London on the morning Prince Albert was to lay the corner-stone of the Royal Exchange. There was a crush of people in the streets; but as I was determined to see the procession and other grand doings, I rushed after the crowd, and in the course of of the day lost my way and lost my reticule, containing the card of my hotel; consequently, when all was over, and I had been sorely disappointed in not seeing the queen as well as Prince Albert, I knew no more where my lodgings were than the man in the moon. Whether I had come from the East, West, North, or South End, I could tell no one. The day was intensely cold, and I was fearfully hungry, but where to go I did not know. At length some kind ladies and gentlemen saw my perplexity, and interested themselves in my behalf. They even descended from their carriage, and offered to take me to their home, and shelter me until by some means or other they could find out where I had wandered from. Every sort of question was put to me about the appearance of my hotel, and at last a clue was obtained to it by my remembering a statue of Queen Elizabeth somewhere in its vicinity, by which it was conjectured by one of the gentlemen that it must be the "Hotel de Paris." ​I was immediately driven there, and found, sure enough, by the welcome I received from my young lady and others that the conjecture was right. Several people had been sent out to look for me to no purpose, and, on thanking the gentleman for his kindness in bringing me home, I cried with a joy I never felt before, and wondered what rich or grand person in America would have done so charitable an act. I was overwhelmed with gratitude, and flew about like a big crazy child, crying and laughing alternately for hours afterward.
I had never heard of London fogs, and the next morning when I awoke the sun looked so red and glaring through the dense smoke that I thought the Judgment Day had certainly come; but it was not the Judgment Day at all—it was only a London day. My morning duties to my lady over, I sat down and laughed heartily over the events of the day previous. They were queer enough.
After a short stay in London, M'lle M. returned to France, taking with her, as she had intended, an English maid. Before her departure I had become acquainted with a Mrs. R., who very kindly interested herself in getting a situation for me. During the next week I had a great many offers of places. One wished me to go as maid; another as chamber-maid; some wanted one thing, some another; but none of the places suited me, and I did not accept any of them. However, at length a family named S., from Snaresbrook, Essex county, engaged me as child's nurse. As they did not want me for a month, I made the most of the interval in sight-seeing. I went to Windsor; saw a good deal of the palace; attended St. Paul's ​Church; saw the baptism of the Prince of Wales; caught a glimpse of the Emperor Nicholas of Russia; witnessed a grand illumination, in the midst of which, hearing of the death of the Duke of Orleans, I posted off immediately to Paris, to see the funeral ceremonies—stayed two weeks in France, enjoying myself as much as possible, going wherever I pleased, feeling perfectly independent of everybody I was tempted at one time to engage myself for the winter as ladies' maid in the family of a distinguished physician, but refused, not wishing to break my promise to the English family. I staid, however, in Paris till my money was all gone, and only raised the means to get back to England by pledging my watch and other trinkets, which was my first and last transaction of this kind. But I knew that without money I should soon be without friends, for in France and England I had seen this fact exemplified, in many painful instances, among the high-born as well as the low.
I have seen those who seemed to have plenty of means caressed and made much of to-day, and cast off to-morrow, when their means were gone. "Better be born lucky than rich;" for riches often take to themselves wings, but something always seems to turn up just in the right time for the lucky. I traveled once, however, with an individual who seemed neither to have been born lucky nor rich. She and I chanced to be in the same diligence from Paris to B., where she was engaged as governess in the family of Count R.—an engagement which had taken place by letters simply, neither of the parties ever having met each other. Upon the occasion I speak of, she was on her way to the residence of the count. Her manners ​were haughty and proud, and I saw at once that she was a parvenu woman, though I did not then know what I afterward learned of her.
We stopped about thirty miles from Paris for dinner. It was customary for the outside passengers of a diligence to eat in one apartment, and those inside in another of a little better caste. Among the outside travelers was a well-dressed, gentlemanly-appearing man, who had evidently taken his place there to enjoy the pure air and fine views. He came in, in a quiet way, to the inside passengers' table. When he seated himself at the table, the parvenu woman, looking very indignant, called to the landlord, and asked if there were not regulations prohibiting outside passengers from eating at that table. He replied that such were the rules. She then said she wished he would enforce them, and pointing to the gentlemanly-looking aggressor, requested that he should be ordered from the table. Without speaking a word, the gentleman arose and walked with the landlord into the inferior dining-room.
Having finished our meal, we again started on our course. After traveling for a few hours across a very beautiful country, the diligence stopped at a magnificent chateau. The beauty of this place attracted the admiration of all; it was surrounded by grand forest trees, and the grounds were adorned with the most exquisite taste. It was evident such an abode must be the dwelling of persons of rank and wealth. Soon a fine looking lady, accompanied by four lovely children and several servants, were seen approaching the gate, with their eyes fixed upon the top of the diligence, from which Count K., in the shape of the veritable ​gentleman whom his engaged governess had ejected from the superior dining apartment, alighted to meet his family, from whom he had been absent for a few weeks. It was with great delight that all the passengers saw the discomfited looks of the governess when she discovered that the despised outside passenger was the Count R. The diligence started immediately, so that we had no opportunity to hear what was said; but I afterward learned that the governess was politely invited into the house, shown into handsome apartments, and treated with extreme kindness for the night. The next morning the countess paid her a month's wages and dismissed her. So much for that parvenu woman!
ESSEX COUNTY.
Upon my arrival in England, I went immediately to Essex county, and commenced my duties with the S. family. The child assigned to my charge was not as bright as most children of his age, but nevertheless I became very much attached to him. I made up my mind to love him, and devoted to him my whole attention.
The day after I had entered this family, I received orders from my lady to be ready dressed, with the child, at three o'clock, to go to London. The carriage, with four horses and servants in livery, appeared at the appointed hour before the door; a coat of arms was emblazoned upon the panels of the carriage, and the servants were in black velvet knee breeches, and had cockades upon their hats. My lady, her daughter and my little responsibility having entered the carriage, the door was suddenly closed, and ​I was pointed to a seat beside the footman, behind the carriage. I very respectfully declined this honor, and marched myself back into the house. They returned at five to dinner, but I heard nothing that night of my refusal to ride with the footman. The next day, however, I was summoned to the lady's presence, and asked my reason for not accompanying her to London. She was surprised when I told her that in America, even a female slave acting as lady's maid, or child's nurse, always had a seat inside of the carriage with the-family. She then said that, in consideration of my being an American, she would overlook the matter; but had I been English, she should certainly have discharged me. Afterward, when they required my attendance from home, I always went in the carriage.
The four daughters of this family were very lovely persons; the eldest of whom, hearing the conversation between her mamma and myself, stepped forward and said, "Mamma, I think Iangy's excuse is quite satisfactory, and with your permission I will hereafter take charge of her myself." After this we had a regular understanding about everything. Servants in England are paid monthly, and it is customary for them to provide their own tea and coffee out of their wages; but my lady exempted me from this tax upon my own means—a privilege the other servants beheld with no little envy—and every Monday morning my little private caddy was filled. I took my breakfast and supper in my own room, but always dined in the servants' hall, having no other association with them. The upper valet and lady's maid in England never mingle with the household servants. ​Ladies and gentlemen in England manage their private affairs as they think proper; but many American ladies dare not engage a servant, unless he or she happens to suit all the other servants in the house; they dare not give a five-cent piece to one, or a bite of meat, or a drink of ale, without giving the same to the others, lest they may pout and grumble, and perhaps go and talk and tell stories about her. This is a deplorable evil in America.
In England, no family will engage a servant without the best recommendations from his or her last employer, but the families of England rarely part with an old servant. Sometimes they live thirty or forty years in one family, and what their master or mistress says is law and gospel with them. Servants, in England, are not allowed to call young ladies and gentlemen by their christian names, without prefixing to them Miss or Mr.; in America it is different. My little charge wanted me to call him Master, but I told him I would not do so, if he were as old as Methuselah. I will leave that word for the South, where it is exacted.
Often, in the afternoon, with my little charge, and the young ladies, I went to a little cottage or bower, at the end of the grove, where the young ladies passed much of their time, with their embroidery, battledore, and other amusements. We never resorted to this retreat unless accompanied by an enormous house dog for protector, as one of the young ladies, having strolled there upon one occasion alone, was met by a band of gypsies, and her watch-chain, earrings, and other jewelry demanded of her, which, from fear of her life, she gave up, and never recovered them afterward; ​but the noble animal which now protected us, divested us of all fear.
The next day was "Hallow Eve," and large parties came up from London to ride steeple-chases. I was very anxious to see these steeple-chases, as I had often heard of the daring feats of horsemanship displayed in them; of the exciting races over the fields, and terrible leaps over walls and ditches, and the excitement always created by them; but, when I came to see the reality, I was not a little disappointed—the gentlemen did the racing, but the valets did the ditch jumping. Sometimes horse, rider, and all, fell into the ditch, and it was a miracle if arms, legs and necks were not broken in the leaps. This amusement was, generally, carried on outside the parks, where large crowds of people assembled to witness it, which I found was rather a dangerous thing, for upon these occasions, the steeple-chasers have the privilege of riding over everything and every body, and, for my part, I was for getting out of their way. Hallow Eve night is devoted to various innocent amusements, by old and young, rich and poor. Prince and peasant hold a jubilee together—the children burn nuts to find out whether their future partners will be ill-natured or good-natured, count apple seeds, and try all manner of charms; the servants have their feasts in the halls; the nobility open their grandest drawing rooms; and every sort of fun is sanctioned on "Hallow Eve;" but good bye to that pleasant "Hallow Eve," I never expect to witness anything like it again.
My young lady was a fine horsewoman, and sometimes joined in the deer hunts. She asked me if I would like to witness one? I thanked her, and after ​she was seated in her saddle for the chase, she handed me a note, and requested me to take it to her groom. On delivering the note and turning away, I, by some mistake, took the same path the deer were in, and the groom let off the whole pack of hounds upon my footsteps, which of course set me to screaming and running at the top of my speed; and when I arrived, breathless, in the court yard, I found my young lady and her attendants ready to die with laughing. I discovered that the note sent to the groom contained an order to have the hounds let loose upon the deer, as soon as my back should be turned, knowing that I would not be hurt at all; but, indeed, it was about as bad to be scared to death. I took it all good humoredly, as I saw my young lady only meant to have a little innocent fun at my expense.
The gentlemen were all in hunting costume, and the servants in hunting livery. The deer hunt was a brilliant and exciting scene, and my young lady was the most graceful rider I had ever seen.
For weeks after Hallow Eve, everything was quiet—the long walks and rides on horseback were part of every day's occupation, but all other amusements were carried on within doors. I remember nothing of interest for a long time, but a breakfast at Lady R.'s, at which, by some means or other, I managed to get a peep, as I did at everything else that was going on. It was a gay and splendid affair; the grounds about the mansion were superb; the grand old trees, artificial lakes, with swans and pleasure boats upon them; music in the open air; elegantly attired ladies and gentlemen; groups of footmen in livery; all delighted me, and, after enjoying the scene, I quietly returned ​home, to set it down in my book of English recollections.
Time passed on rapidly, and Prince Albert came one day, with a great retinue, to the vicinity of Epping Forest, to lay a corner-stone for an orphan asylum. All the neighboring ladies contributed toward the object—some more, some less, according to their means—and it was amusing to see the airs they put on, on delivering the purse to the prince; I thought I should die with laughing at some of them; but I did not: I lived to bid farewell to this happy English family, and to wander away, in the watering season, to Ramsgate.
This far-famed English watering-place, upon whose dangerous coast so many wrecks occur in the stormy seasons of the year, and, indeed, the strolls of the pleasure seekers, in August and September, upon the cliffs and beaches, are often disturbed by harrowing sights of suffering and dying fellow-beings upon the distant rocks. But at last I tired of gathering shells at Ramsgate, and began to have a longing for home. A berth was procured for me, on board of a merchant ship, bound for New York. On arriving on board, and finding but one woman upon the ship, I got off at Gravesend, where I was sent to the pilot's house, and treated very kindly by the pilot's wife and family for some two or three months. Here I had an opportunity of seeing still more of England. I visited all the watering-places in my capacity of hair-dresser, Dover, Brighton, Broadstairs' Bend; saw the curiosities of every place, and was delighted with everything but the canal passage through the Tunnel, which I attempted to perform; but when I found myself ​in the boat, I hallooed so that they had to send me back.
But again I grew homesick, and, though all around were kind to me, I felt like a stranger in a strange land. I had but ten dollars in the world, and, at Gravesend, as well as everywhere else, I knew I should lose my friends as soon as they discovered I had no money. I desired to go home, but could not do so without money. I had health and a trade, and though I felt a little lazy, yet I went to work to recruit my exhausted treasury. I went to London and taught ladies' maids to dress hair, got a little ahead in purse again, and returned to Gravesend, upon an occasion when the queen embarked, on a small royal cutter, for her estates in Scotland. I stood upon the pier until the fairy vessel passed by, and distinctly saw her majesty, standing upon the deck, surrounded by lords, ladies and gentlemen, with liveried servants in attendance. The vessels in the harbor, bearing the flags of every nation, suddenly hoisted them as the royal cutter glided along, and the roar of cannon was so tremendous that I was deafened for hours afterward; but I was so inspirited by the scene, that, for a few moments, I wished myself a man and in her majesty's service.
This fete day ended with a dinner party, at which I was dressed in my best, and a visit to Covent Garden Theater in the evening.
I now began to think I had seen about all I could in England, and resolved, for about the fiftieth time, to go home, but, again, I had no money. I went on board of the packet ship Philadelphia, however, told the captain I was penniless, but must go home on his ​ship or die. He thought it best not to let me die so forlornly on a foreign shore, and so, as the cabin was crowded with ladies and children, he placed the little responsibilities in my charge, and in this way I earned my passage back to my native land. I made a great many friends on shipboard, and felt very sorry to leave them; it had to be done though, and soon we all parted, probably never to meet again.