# Motors and Motor-Driving/Chapter 6

CHAPTER VI
THE MOTOR STABLE AND ITS MANAGEMENT
By Sir David Salomans, Bart., M.A.
At the present time probably not one per cent, of the owners of motor-cars have a suitable coach-house for this new class of vehicle. They are generally placed in sheds or outbuildings, more often damp than dry, or in coach-houses built for horse-drawn carriages. Few recognise that the motor-car is a far more delicate article than the horse-drawn carriage, most people having grown up in the common belief that anything to do with machinery is strong, and will bear knocking about. It is well, therefore, at once to disabuse the mind of such ideas.
The abode of the horseless carriage requires to be superior in many respects to the shelter given to the machineless vehicle. It must not only be perfectly dry, but must have a variety of accessory arrangements for dealing with all parts of the machinery—for cleaning, adjustment, and repairs. A water supply, and a source of light safe in the presence of explosive gases, are essential. The space must not be too cramped, and plenty of light should be obtained through ample windows during the day. The machinery must, from time to time, be examined from below.
This can be effected in one of three methods:—
(1) By the attendant lying on his back under the carriage, a proceeding which does not commend itself.
(2) By a specially arranged platform, wherewith the carriage can be raised from the ground to enable a man to get below the vehicle without discomfort.
​(3) By means of a pit sunk in the ground, by which a man finds himself comfortably situated below the car. This pit may be small, and the carriage gradually advanced in order to reach all parts of the machinery, or, what is best, it may be a long pit, so that the car can be examined throughout its length. This method will be evident to all as the best.
A well-built motor-house should cost nothing in the upkeep, beyond the painting of the doors occasionally. A cheaply built motor-house implies an annual expenditure combined with vexation, and after a few years a patched-up place is the result.
The writer has given great attention to motor stables. It may not be out of place, therefore, if the methods adopted at Broomhill, near Tunbridge Wells, are described in detail.
The stabling consists of five long narrow rooms, one made to contain three small cars, another two large ones, the third two small or one very large car, the fourth room a small car, or may be used as a cycle house; and the fifth room will accommodate two moderate-size vehicles, or can be used as a washing-house in bad weather. One of these resting-places is somewhat modified to enable repairs to be carried out.
This latter house will be described, since, if only one shelter existed, it should be so constructed. It is twenty-eight feet long, ten feet six inches wide, walls eleven feet high. The whole construction is fire-proof, with the exception of the ceiling, which is tent-shaped and match-boarded, having a long skylight on the north side in order that the direct sunlight may not enter. The skylight is Mellow's patent glazing, which never leaks and does not require to be painted. The glass is one quarter of an inch thick to resist a hailstorm. Some years ago a hailstorm of extraordinary violence occurred around Tunbridge Wells, and glass to the extent of thousands of pounds was broken throughout the district. Many of the hailstones measured over an inch in diameter. The experience at Broomhill was that all glass a quarter of an inch thick ​escaped, and this was a lesson learned for the future. The skylight is barred, to keep out evil-disposed intruders, and a tick blind can be pulled down to subdue the light when required. There is no special object in making the roof fireproof, since the side walls are high. The entrance doors consist of a pair, practically the whole width of the house. Collinge's hinges are used, being, I think, the strongest.
The floor is made of Victoria stone laid on brick sleeper walls, which are not built upon the ground, but upon a six-inch bed of concrete covering the whole of the bare ground. Consequently the floor can be kept perfectly dry. The walls are all double nine-inch brickwork, built in cement, with two inches of air-space between; so that, however wet the weather may be, the interior wall is never damp; and they are carried above gutter level so that any fire may not extend. The bricks employed for the interior and exterior are neatly pointed close-grained white brick having a texture the nature of porcelain, and water-proof. For the interior, cemented walls would have answered the purpose, but the pointed brickwork looks better. The roof is boarded, felted and slated, while below the rafters is a lining of matchboard. By this means the roof is as damp-proof as the walls and floor. This method of building is best adapted to keep out variations of heat and cold, since stationary air is an excellent non-conductor. The only escape for heat is through the skylight, but in very cold weather it is only necessary to pull the blind down, and an equal temperature can be maintained.
In the centre of the floor, and extending almost the whole length of the house, is the pit, which is about eight feet deep. This is made excessive in depth for a reason which will be given in due course. The width of the pit is somewhat narrower than the distance between any of the motor-car wheels. The mouth of this pit is a strong timber frame, the wood being four by three inches, and rabbetted the whole length of the two inner sides. Boards two inches thick and two feet wide drop in the rabbetts, each board having sunk ​iron rings on the surface. The object of this arrangement is that when all the boards are dropped into place the pit is completely closed, and by means of the rings any one or more covers can be raised as required, in order to open the pit for an observation from below.
The chief object to be attained by building several separate motor-houses in the place of one large one is that wall space is gained, which is a matter of no small importance when it is remembered how many spares are required in connection with motor-carriages. The walls of the motor-house under description are furnished in the following manner. Near the doors on either side are ranges of small shelves upon which are placed the most necessary tools and other small items which are almost invariably required when a carriage is to go out. The remainder of the wall is furnished with larger shelves to carry testing apparatus, pumps, a variety of tools, and such spare parts as are not carried in the vehicle, as well as oil, &c. There are also brackets of metal or wood, in the shape of the arc of a circle, upon which are hung spare covers and air tubes. There also exists a small chest of drawers, each drawer being divided, such as those used by watchmakers to contain small parts in an orderly manner.
This house is prolonged beyond the space necessary to stand the carriages, to the extent of about six feet.
This space is occupied by a work-bench, vice, and hand-drilling machine, and upon the end wall are racks for all the tools necessary for making small repairs, and a complete set of duplicate keys, so that when the adjustments are made it will not be necessary to turn out the contents of the car. There is likewise apparatus suitable for soldering and brazing by gas or by benzine lamps, the gas being used when there is no danger, while in the other case the benzine lamp is employed outside the motor-house so as to be in the open air.
In the corner, by the side of the bench, is an iron circular staircase which leads down to a small basement, lighted by a glass in the motor-house floor, where large spares are kept, and ​any special tools &c. which are rarely required, such, for instance, as a grindstone, also large reservoirs of oil. This basement has a door which leads into the pit. It will now be seen why the pit is made so deep, since it can be entered without obliging anyone to stoop, the doorway leading into it being the usual height, viz. about six feet seven inches. In order to reach the cars conveniently two trestles are provided in the pit, across which are placed also some narrow planks, and there is a small pair of steps for reaching this platform. There are a spare set of trestles for a different height, in case the level should require to be altered. At the entrance door a piece of stone runs across the threshold, about two inches above the floor line, to keep any water from flowing out. The concrete bottom of the pit slopes towards a point where a gully is situated. Consequently any water in the pit flows towards this gully and drains off.
The floor of the motor-house itself requires no gully, because it inclines slightly towards the entrance doors, so that when it has to be washed down the water flows to the outside. Of course the pit can be entered from above if desired.
Plans of the motor-houses at Broomhill are here shown to scale, since it will render the description clearer, and show all the arrangements at a glance (see figs. 1 and 2). There is also a picture of the motor-houses taken from a photograph in fig. 3. The fifth house is not seen in this picture.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
​if an examination has to be made in the absence of the electric light when benzine vapour is likely to be about. In the motor-house there are three tanks which hold about six gallons each with self-contained pumps. Two of these contain oil, one being thick and the other more fluid. The third is a seamless steel barrel which holds benzine. There is also a large metal bottle with a screw top, in which is placed any old benzine that is used for cleaning purposes. The main store of petroleum spirit is at a considerable distance from all
Fig. 3. — The Motor-houses at Broomhill, Tunbridge Wells
buildings. One of the neatest types of self-contained oil reservoir and pump is that made by the Richter Oil Economising Company of Bradford. Many other types are in existence, but none of those with which I am acquainted is so well finished.
The roof of the house is strengthened at certain points by cross timbers which support two small H girders, and carry iron frames to which are attached pulley blocks. These little frames can be slid along the girders in the direction of the length of the carriages below. By means of this arrangement ​a carriage can be lifted off the ground, or any heavy portion of the machinery raised from the car without difficulty. There is also another use—viz. that with a dynamometer the weight of a vehicle can very fairly be estimated by lifting first the fore part and then the hind part just off the ground, and adding the two weights together.
If a pit does not exist, such an arrangement can be made to take its place, by raising the car to a convenient height above the floor.
A zinc tray about four feet long and about six inches narrower than the track of the car should be put under each vehicle to catch the drip, and for placing dirty waste in. In this manner cleanliness is cultivated. Wedges are also required for placing before and behind the wheels of a car when it is desired to keep them immovable.
It is money saved to have duplicate special tools in the motor-car house, since a great deal of wear and tear to the cars is avoided, due to the constant opening and shutting the drawers and cupboards to obtain the tools therefrom. The tool cupboard in the motor-house should also contain a complete set of all the spares which are usually carried in the cars, apart from other duplicate portions which it is usual to keep in stock; or nothing is more annoying than for a driver to find himself miles from home when some little spring or other matter may be required, and is found to be absent because it had already been used and a new one had not been put back in the carriage. In short, it is a good rule for the mechanic to have strict orders never to use a tool or duplicate part in the car except when oh the road.
The ventilation of a motor-car house has not so far been referred to, for in reality it is almost unnecessary. The constant opening and shutting of the large doors give ample air, and if the tanks and joints on the car are kept tight, as they should be, no smell of benzine gas will be found at any time present. At the same time it is desirable that ventilation should exist, as it may be necessary to clean the cars with the ​doors closed in bad weather. Large brass gratings capable of being closed should be placed in each of the upper portions of the entrance doors, and these will be found sufficient for the purpose.
It is also desirable to warm the motor-house. This is done at Broomhill by means of hot water. In many cases this method may appear difficult to carry out, and it is no uncommon practice to leave a gas-burner alight to keep out frost or to warm the room for the attendant when the weather is cold. Such a proceeding is clearly not desirable when there is a risk at any time of the presence of an explosive gas. Very simple heating arrangements by means of hot water can be purchased, some using gas and others burning petroleum as the source of heat. The little boiler in this case would be placed outside the motor-car house in a small brick shelter, and the pipe carried through the wall to the coil or coils in the usual manner. For a motor-house such as that which has been described, the apparatus would not cost more than from 5l. to 10l., according to the character of the one selected.
In every motor-car house there should be two or three tinned-iron open boxes, of the nature of waste-paper baskets, about one foot square and two feet high. One of these should be kept filled with dry sand, and contain a small shovel. This is useful in case any benzine should catch fire, to smother the flames. The others are required to throw any waste substances into. Also on the wall there should hang two or three pails, kept full of water, to be ready in case of fire. It must always be borne in mind that water must not be poured on burning benzine, since the spirit would float upon the water, and in a burning state flow all over the place, thus increasing the danger.
A MOTOR HOUSE IN LONDON
​with soap and soda for use again. A common quality of woolly waste should also be employed, simply for mopping up oil, not for cleaning purposes. It is undesirable to store a large quantity of oily waste for fear of spontaneous combustion. Sponge cloths are a desirable accessory for cleaning and for polishing up. The panels of the carriage should be cleaned with good chamois leather. Inferior qualities will scratch the varnish. The various brushes, &c. required for cleaning are much the same as with a horse-drawn carriage. A great economy is effected by having a separate receptacle for old dirty oil, to be used only for cleaning purposes. Care must taken that oil does not fall on any part of the pneumatic or solid rubber tyres, as it soon destroys the rubber. Boiled linseed oil is an excellent material for getting up the varnish, and petroleum sold under the name of kerosene will work wonders on varnish work and enamelled metal when all other means fail.
To keep a carriage in good order continual touching up is essential, not only where little chips of paint have been broken off, but also on the engine to give it a respectable appearance. No better material exists in the way of general paints than the Griffiths' enamels, which dry almost immediately, and are acid and heat proof and very hard. The black enamel is well suited for the over-heated portions of the engine, since it keeps its colour, unless the metal is brought to a red heat. Many kinds of aluminium paint have been tried for engines, and the majority have been found wanting. The paint which meets with perfect success in all respects is that made by Messrs. Ripolin of Paris. It is expensive, but the material goes a long way. The paint is used extensively abroad for the purpose indicated, and for decoration. With aluminium paint it is always desirable to give a final coat of Griffiths' transparent varnish. This will enable the owner to wash his engine at any time without in any way altering its appearance from that of being brand-new.
It is fatal to fold up the air-tubes and covers of the ​pneumatics for any length of time, or to allow them to be exposed to too great cold or heat. Therefore the air-tubes and envelopes should be hung on the brackets on the wall, and the air-tubes should be kept inflated to a small tension. Since, as has been stated, no direct sunlight reaches the house, danger from excessive heat is avoided. Besides, the heat of the sun might burst the air-tubes on the vehicles standing in the house, or even prove a source of danger to the benzine reservoir by heating the liquid.
Money is not wasted if the owner of the car purchases five jacks for every carriage, one to carry on the car itself, and four to be used in lifting the wheels off the floor, no matter whether the tyres are furnished with pneumatics or solid rubber. Of course, this proceeding would not be resorted to except when the carriage is left for some considerable time without being used, and this practice will greatly prolong the life of the tyres.
All tyres should be repaired at once, and not left for chance moments.
It is usual to wash the horse-drawn carriage directly on reaching the stable, because the mud can be more easily removed when wet, and without the risk of scratching the varnish. This process, however, cannot always be resorted to in the case of a motor-car, on account of the machinery being hot. It is therefore desirable to wet the mud well before removing it. A large Turkey sponge is best for cleaning the body and wheels of the car, and after washing, everything must be dried with sponge-cloths or leathers, according to the nature of the parts to be wiped. The engine itself, and any other working parts, are better cleaned with damp sponge-cloths and finally wiped over with oily waste. The bright parts are cleaned with selvyt, leather, or other suitable material. In no event must water be dashed over a car after the manner of cleaning ordinary carriages, although a hose is convenient for washing, since the water can be carefully directed to the required points.
It is almost the universal practice abroad to wet the clutch ​and brakes. At times the leather on the clutch (when it exists, as it generally does) becomes very polished, and is apt to slip. Sometimes dust or grit gains an entrance, and prevents it from gripping. Water cleans, expands, and roughens the leather without injuring it. Some owners clean their clutch with benzine. This practice is, however, objectionable, because the volatile portion of the benzine evaporates, and invariably leaves behind traces of oily matter, since perfectly rectified benzine would be too expensive to use, and would probably mean that a shilling would be spent each time the clutch was cleaned. It will be seen, therefore, that it is only a question of time when the clutch will become lubricated. However, if oil should by chance get into the clutch or on the brakes, this must be removed with ordinary benzine; but the occurrence should be rare if proper care is taken. By these remarks it must not be supposed that the clutch and brakes should be wetted daily. Once a month, or less often, is sufficient, even when a car is used constantly. On the road also, if a clutch does not act, due to slip, a small dose of water puts matters right at once if the mechanical portions are in order. It is necessary to point out that neither water nor moisture should come in contact with any of the electrical portions when they exist, i.e. primary battery accumulator, and magneto should be kept perfectly dry, also all conductors, insulators, and other electrical apparatus. The moisture itself, if the water is pure, will have practically no effect on the working of the apparatus, because this liquid is a very good non-conductor. Danger enters by the adhesion of dirt, due to the moisture, which causes the current to leak.
Every car should have mackintosh rain-covers, neatly made, so as not to be disfiguring, for use in wet weather; also dust-covers, which are useful on many occasions. In damp weather the carriage should be left entirely uncovered when standing in its house, since the covers become moist, and the carriage is enveloped in a wet cloth, when in a short time it will be found that all the leather parts have become mildewed. A ​thermometer must be placed in the motor-house, for observing the temperature. In the one described it will be noticed that the mercury will not fall, in the coldest winter, below fifty degrees Fahr. or rise, in the hottest summer, above seventy degrees Fahr.
It is of vital importance that frost should be kept away from the motor-car, in order that the circulating water shall not freeze, and possibly burst some part of the apparatus. To empty the water daily in winter-time is a vexatious proceeding, because when it is replaced there is often the difficulty of restoring the circulation owing to air becoming lodged in the pipes or elsewhere. Quite apart from this consideration it is desirable to keep the same water as long as possible in the circulation apparatus, thus to reduce deposit in the tubes and not disturb any rust that may exist. If the water is removed daily, various pipes and other portions made of iron, 'thin out,' on account of affecting so frequently the thin layer of rust which forms. When the apparatus is in use the circulation is not sufficiently violent to detach the oxide, and the thin coat preserves the iron below, being insoluble in water.
Thus it will be seen that the small expenditure on a hot-water system and the cost of running it is money saved in the end, and many a breakdown owing to bad circulation will be avoided. It may be desirable for the benefit of those who do not know where such small heating apparatus may be obtained, to give the names of two or three firms who supply the requirements, viz., Messrs. Keith of Farringdon Avenue, E.C., Messrs. Crompton and Fawkes of Chelmsford, and Messrs. Fletcher of Warrington.
It is very difficult to draw a line between stable management and motor management. Probably apart from the cleaning of the car; oiling the bearings and grinding the valves come within the province of the stable attendant. The oiling arrangements are so straightforward that there is little need to give special instructions under this head. It is, ​however, important to count the exact number of oil holes and grease cups existing in any car, and to have this painted in the car somewhere out of sight, giving instructions to the attendant to count up as he oils round. In this way no place will be forgotten.
When any difficulty occurs with a car many drivers at once accuse the electric ignition, when it exists, and next the valves, for the default. The unfortunate valve comes in for a great deal more abuse than it deserves. The less grinding they are given the better. When the operation is necessary of course it must be done. If the car is used daily, for say eight hours, and the oiling of the cylinders has been properly adjusted and not too profuse, it will be sufficient if the valves are removed weekly, to be wiped over with an oily rag, and then cleaned with a little heavy petroleum or benzine. If it should be observed that the bearing surfaces are pitted, then grinding should be resorted to, but this will not often be the case with experienced owners.
It is a very simple matter to grind the valve by adopting the following process. To give an example, we will consider the case of one valve, since it will apply equally to the others. The valve itself must be rendered free by the removal of all springs, and a little emery of the finest description, almost like flour, should be mixed up into a paste with oil. The bearing surface of the valve must then be coated with a thin layer of this paste by means of the finger, and placed upon its seating. It will be observed that there is a slot in the valve ready to receive the screw-driver. This tool is now employed in twisting the valve right and left, at the same time pressing it down on its seat with moderate force, turning always to an angle of say forty-five degrees to and fro. Then turn the valve a little round, and continue the operation, the object being not always to grind in the same place. When this operation has been continued for the space of a minute, the valve should be removed, and the rubbing surface on the valve itself, as well as its seating, be examined to see whether the ​rubbing is equal at every point round, and that the pit marks are now absent. Should this be the case, the operation is concluded. If not, it must be continued, using a little more of the emery paste until the desired result is obtained. Every trace of emery must then be removed by means of rags or waste wetted with petroleum or oil, and on no account should any remain, for the reason that it might enter the cylinder, bearings, or some other part of the machinery, and set up a friction which is hard to remove, since emery particles will embed themselves in the hardest steel. The emery rags and other things which may be employed for grinding valves should be kept apart, to run no risk of emery dust entering any rubbing parts of the motor.
It is desirable that all benzine which is placed in the car, and all oil which is used, should be entered in a book, say once a week, in order to prevent extravagance and waste, and all storage tanks should have a gauge-glass marked in gallons or litres, in order that their contents may be observed. These gauge-glasses must of course have taps, or the breakage of a tube would empty the contents. The owner should once a month, or at any other suitable times, see by the book how much has been removed from the tanks, and by comparing this with what remains he will be able to judge how matters go.
It is desirable that any repairs, small or great, should be attended to at once. This is the only way to keep a car ready at all times for use. Every car on being delivered possesses certain faults which the owner should remedy. It is true that the faults are details, and consist of omissions by the makers on account of expense, in consequence of trade competition, which would make their car appear more expensive than that of some rival. The public as a rule would not appreciate the little advantages for the extra expense incurred, though the want of them is felt later on. It is impossible to detail the whole of the points, since every make of car varies to some extent, but the lines upon which the owner should proceed may be indicated.
​Every portion of the machinery should be arranged, as far as can be done, in such a manner that removal can be effected upon the road without use of tools, or with the least number. To give a few examples:—If burners exist, in order that the platinum tubes may be replaced without extinguishing the burners, additional taps of more perfect make should be provided in lieu of many of those which do not cut off with certainty, due to their construction. Extra taps in the course of the benzine tubes should be added, so that the fluid may be cut off at more than one point in case of fire. The nuts should be changed as far as possible to certain gauges to diminish the number of keys required. The locks of drawers and cupboards throughout should be passed with one key. Every nut on the car should have a spring washer placed under it, and the end of all bolts and studs pinned where possible. All break rods and clutch rods should be cut and joined together by means of a right- and left-handed screw coupler, with lock nuts on the rods, in order that adjustment may be made on the road with despatch, and the best tensions for these rods be obtained without trouble. All these details and many others which suggest themselves, according to the type of car, should be attended to, and they will repay the owner in a very short time.
The careful storage of benzine is a very important matter. No licence is requisite for the benzine carried on the car, which must not exceed forty gallons. If all reasonable precautions are followed, there will be no difficulty in obtaining a licence for the general storage. The benzine-store at Broomhill is constructed in the following manner: It is a lean-to house eight feet long, three feet wide, seven feet high in front, and nine feet at the back. All the walls are of nine-inch brickwork, and the bricks in the side walls are so laid that the ends of them do not meet, in order to allow a free current of air to pass through. The fourth side is filled in by a pair of doors lined with iron. The roof consists of corrugated iron laid on T iron. The floor has a bed of concrete six inches ​thick. The sill is of such a height that if the tank or tanks were to leak, and let out the whole of the liquid, it would still be retained within the house. In order that this sill should not be inconveniently high the floor is sunk. In the case referred to the sill is about six inches high, and this floor tank, so to speak, is almost filled with sand to act as an absorbent. There are two closed tanks, each of which holds 300 gallons. The inlets and outlets of each tank are arranged thus: a pipe issues from the bottom of the tank with a stopcock, and is
Fig. 4. — Benzine House
only used for emptying the tank completely and removing the dregs. Another tap is placed six inches from the bottom, and is the one used to draw from. Another pipe with a stopcock is inserted three inches from the bottom and at the side, to carry the gauge-tube. The gauge-glass has a scale by the side of it marked off in gallons and litres. Close to the top of the tank is a large hole with screwed plug. Into this is screwed a pipe which carries a suitable funnel for filling. There is also a small tap inserted at a suitable height, attached to ​which is a pipe which passes through the tank and upwards to the top, where it is open, and is used as an air outlet when filling the tank. All the fittings are situated on the front side, and when the doors are shut they come close to them so that the person who attends to the tanks stands outside. The tanks are painted in large letters with the words, 'Highly Inflammable.' The building is situated a very considerable distance from other structures, and kept locked. An illustration of the benzine-house is shown in fig. 4.
Fig. 5. — The Hon. Evelyn Ellis's Motor-house at Datchet
The owner of a car must always remember that the best master of the mechanism is himself, and he should therefore take care to conquer all its intricacies and difficulties. Any time and patience that he spends in this manner greatly increase his power, and they are not wasted on any particular car, since nine points out of ten are common to all types of motor-carriages which are worked upon a similar system.
There is no need to deal with steam and electrically driven cars specially under the head of 'Stable Management,' because ​all the above remarks apply, excepting those which have special reference to cars carrying motors of the gas-engine type.
Fig. 5 represents the stabling of the well-known motor-car owner, Mr. Evelyn Ellis. He places his pit outside. When this is done a wooden or metal rail must run along each side of the pit as seen in the picture, to prevent a car from being rolled in; when the pit is in the motor-car house this precaution is unnecessary. The full-page illustration opposite shows Mr. Alfred Harmsworth's motor stables.