# The Present State of Peru/5h

PUBLIC DIVERSIONS.
The theatre constitutes the principal amusement. Its decorations are regular, and the performers not bad. There have been, and there are, indeed, at present, some among them who might figure conspicuously at Madrid and Naples. ​The house is neat and commodious; and, through the vigilance of the magistrates, the best order is observed during the representations. It may, however, be asked, why the sensible part of the audience unite in applauding certain interludes which are performed with no other view than to give pleasure to the commonalty? They are perhaps not aware, that a violent clapping of the hands arraigns still more forcibly the depraved taste that dictates the praises bestowed on the comedies of monks, popes, and saints, which ought to be abolished in an age like the present, and in a country so enlightened as Peru. In other respects, justice must be done to the truth. The theatres of Europe do not observe a moderation and a decency equal to those which are displayed by ours, with respect to the internal regulations of the galleries and crescent. A little modern taste in the selection of the pieces; a more diligent study of the comic parts; somewhat less of vehemence in the declamations; a forbearance from the practice of smoking at the time of the performances; and, lastly, a certain degree of indulgence which should enable any one to seat himself in the pit without regarding his dress or his peruke; would not only improve our theatre, but would likewise render it much more agreeable and useful to those by whom it is frequented.
Coffee-houses were unknown in Lima until the year 1771. The mate, the use of which was before general, required a considerable portion of time for the infusion, and certain precautions, which rendered it incompatible with an establishment to be frequented by the public. Accordingly, this drink ​was peculiar to the assemblies and social parties; but, considered as a domestic refreshment, it has at length lost all its credit.
In the above-cited year a coffee-house was opened in the street, of Santo Domingo, and was considered as a singular novelty. It was followed, at the commencement of 1772, by another establishment of a similar nature. They were fully approved by the viceroy, who was persuaded that they would have a direct tendency to benefit society. It is certain, at least, that assemblies in coffee-houses, conducted with the moderation, decency, and propriety, which mark the disposition of the Peruvians, serve to unite man to man, to produce a uniformity of character, to augment the circulation and resources of subsistence, to contribute to the convenience of those who dwell in the vicinity, and to afford them an innocent recreation. The city did not, however, witness without repugnance the introduction of this custom. Another coffee-house was, notwithstanding, opened by the original projector in 1775; and was so successful that, on the following year, he ventured on a new speculation of the same kind, and made choice of a more commodious and centrical situation. This last establishment is at the present time the most flourishing.
By degrees the above coffee-houses became so much frequented, at the same time that the gains of the keepers were supposed to be very considerable, as to suggest the idea of two others, one of which was opened in 1782, and the other in 1788. In each coffee-house there is a billiard-table, a species of amusement which would be less censurable, if admittance were to be denied to young men of family, and to youths who ​are in this manner impeded in the prosecution of their studies. Jellies and drinks of every description are provided; and although there is a great concourse of persons, more especially at an early hour in the morning, and in the afternoon, an uninterrupted harmony prevails.
The Literary Memoirs of Madrid contain the provisions made by Don Mariano Colon, superintendant-general of police of that court, with a view to the introduction of a greater decorum in the coffee-houses. The principal enactments are as follows: "First, that in all the coffee-houses in which a certain share of decency, and a corresponding neatness, should not be observed, painted cloths should be hung up, the walls white-washed, and the doors and tables coloured. Secondly, that a clean dish should be served to each individual, notwithstanding three or four persons should unite together, for this reason, that, in pouring the liquor from the cup to the saucer, it was spilled on the table, so as, by the slightest inattention, to stain the clothes and mantles of the company. Thirdly, that the waiters should, on their presenting themselves, be clean, without either a net or a bonnet on the head, and, if possible, combed, &c. &c." What would some of our readers say if we were to insinuate the like? And what would be the language of the critics who are desirous that the Mercury should alone be the vehicle of adulation, and the propagator of private sentiments? Let them say what they may, we will not lose our time in confuting them. Once for all, our reply is, that we do not write solely for the limits of this capital, nor for the year 1791. So long as our periodical work shall be ​continued, we shall labour for the information of the whole world, and for posterity. It may happen that, either in this or in the other hemisphere, the account we have given of the coffee-houses of Lima maybe one day more highly valued than the relations, so often printed, and so often repeated, of its wars, conquest, and foundation. Establishments of this nature are intimately connected with the civil system of a country; and these little monuments of the luxury and policy of our age, may enable those who are to come after us, to estimate and know the history of the conveniences of this capital, its manner of thinking, and the gradations by which it has begun to emulate, perhaps to excel Europe.
The COCK MATCHES, a very favourite amusement of the inhabitants of Lima, were formerly not subject to any particular regulations either of time or place. The consequence was, that they not only occasioned many individuals to neglect the duties they owed to society, but excited continual quarrels among those who were the most add16ted to this species of entertainment. To remedy this abuse, a particular building was ere6ted in the year 1762, in the little square of Santa Catalina, the last in the city, and in a manner contiguous to its walls. A fitter situation could not have been made choice of for this purpose. The copious stream which flows in front of the edifice, and the extensive gardens by which it is surrounded on every side, not only render the prospect it possesses highly agreeable, but likewise contribute to its embellishment and cleanliness, preserving a pure and fresh air, without which it is certain that many serious diseases originate in theatres and other places of public resort.
The building itself forms a beautiful amphitheatre of a ​circular shape, with its range of seats, and nine open spaces for the spectators. There are two entrances, the passages leading from which are occupied by them; and, on the opposite side, are two other entrances, with their corresponding passages, in which the cocks that are destined to fight in the afternoon are separately kept by those who are interested in the sport. In the outer part of the circle there is a commodious stair-case, by which to ascend to the apartments and galleries above, they being twenty-nine in number, without reckoning the one occupied by the judge, and distinguished from the others by its extent and decoration.
This amusement is permitted on Sundays and festivals, and twice weekly on working days. The price of admission to the passages is one real; to the seats, two reals; and to the galleries, four. The open spaces are occupied gratis. The doors are opened at two in the afternoon, and the diversion, which commences at four, is continued until vespers. On particular days, the concourse of persons of the different classes is very considerable, but not the smallest tumult occurs among those who are in the habit of betting. The authority of the judge, who is accompanied by a party of the military, is sufficiently respected to restrain every disorder; and, as a further precaution, there are established rules for the decision of the doubtful cases.
Pl. viii.
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Fighter at a bull-feast Pub. Feb. 1. 1805 by Richard Philips 6 New Bridge Street
The BULL FEASTS have their determinate time and place. When the prize-fighters are denied an opportunity to display their valour, they are admired on account of their legerity. The custom of hamstringing the bull that does not attack, is very censurable: another method ought to be devised to kill him, without resorting to this one, which conveys with it an idea of cold and deliberate treachery. The spectators are not a little molested by the importunities of the venders of a particular description of punch, stiled by them agua de berros (cress-water), so much overcharged with brandy, that it would be fatal in any other country less moderate than Peru. In this diversion the mode is not so cruel as it was six or eight years ago. A fighter at a bull-feast is represented in Plate VIII.
The ASSEMBLAGES of company on the banks of the Amancaes river, commence on St. John's day, the 24th of June, and terminate at the close of September. The excursions to the hills adjacent to Lima take place at the same time. The gentle garua, descending from that station, covers with ​shrubs and flowers the sandy plains that terminate the valley, and the hills by which it is encompassed. These diversions, insomuch as they are rural, delight, and are not attended by any bad consequences, unless when there is an excess in the repasts, and when the whole of the company come to a determination to sleep in the open air, or in a wretched hut deserted by the Indians.
The PROMENADE which is not only the most considerable, but which it is in a manner indispensably necessary to attend, is that of the Alameda, or public walk, on Sundays, and more especially on new year's day, and twelfth day, on account of the election of the alcaldes, or judges; and, on the second of August, on occasion of the jubilee in the church in the vicinity, belonging to the Franciscan Recollects. The multitude of coaches and calashes; the diversity of their colours and structure; the neatness of the dresses; the illustrious persons who are present; and the superb attire of the ladies who embellish the scene;—all these objects concur to render this description of public spectacle very agreeable. Caprice has, notwithstanding, thrown some little perplexity in the way. A certain precision in the demeanour of those who are seated in the calashes, and who are obliged to regard each other stedfastly, without turning the head aside, together with the impossibility of appearing on foot without sinning against the received usage, are insufferable violences, more particularly to those who do not keep carriages. The public, however, begin to be sensible of these prejudices, and to shake them off.
The WALK of la Piedra Lisa is solitary, and on that account destined for philosophers prone to meditation. The thick ​foliage of the trees which surround it; their agreeable shade; the proximity of the river; the view of every part of the beautiful valley of Lurigancho; the near perspeftive of the city; and the landscape formed by the cultivated grounds on the opposite bank; not only gratify the sight, but likewise inpire a soft enthusiasm, and elevate the spirit to the contemplation of the Supreme Creator of Nature.
In this retired and enchanting spot the Lovers of the Country formed the project of subjecting to a slight criticism the diversions of Lima, with a hope that their productions will be favourably received by their fellow-citizens, who will pardon them, if, peradventure, they should be too free, or should be deficient in the delicacy required.
* ↑ It is composed of an infusion of the herb of Paraguay in boiling water, and sugar.
* ↑ Vol. X. pages 404 and 405.
* ↑ These hills are named the Amancaes and St. Christopher. They may be considered as a continuation of the cordillera of the Andes mountains, notwithstanding they are comparatively very low, and project into the delightful valley of Rimac, in the centre of which Lima is situated.
* ↑ This is a provincial term, by which is implied a very small mist or dew, having the effect of diffusing an equable moisture over the earth. Such a resolution of the vapours which hover over the city and surrounding plains, must be highly agreeable to the inhabitants of the district of los Falles, who never witness a formal shower of rain.
* ↑ The Academical Society so called.