# Washington, A Guide to the Evergreen State/Part 3

PART III
Tours
(Coeur d'Alene, Idaho)—Spokane—Davenport—Wenatchee—Teana- way—Seattle, US 10. Idaho Line to Seattle, 347 m. Concrete-paved and bituminous-surfaced roadbed. Steep grades are encountered along the Columbia River and in the Cascade Mountains. Heavy snow in mountains during winter months; chains advisable from December to March. Caution advisable at railroad crossings. Great Northern Ry. parallels route be- tween Harrington and Odessa and touches it at Wenatchee, Cashmere, and Dryden; Northern Pacific Ry. parallels route between Reardan and Alraira, Cle Elum and Easton, and Edgewick and Seattle; Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific RR. parallels route between Cle Elum and Falls City and between Renton and Seattle. Good accommodations in larger towns; tourist camps, some with trailer accom- modations, in and near most towns; forest camps at many points through the mountains. Section a. IDAHO LINE to TEANAWAY JUNCTION, 246.8 m. US 10-97 A constantly varying panorama is unfolded on the cross-State route between the Idaho Line and Seattle. Wheat and orchard lands, out- croppings of ancient lava flows exposed by erosion, a great dry falls, rock-walled coulees through which a mighty river once plunged, im- mense hydroelectric projects, the Columbia River with its deep-cut canyon, the apple-growing district of Wenatchee, mountain passes, towering rugged peaks, mining towns, cutover lands, and fertile valleys. US 10 crosses the IDAHO LINE, 0 m., fifteen miles west of Coeur d'Alene, Idaho. EAST FARMS, 0.5 m. (2,010 alt., 88 pop.), is one of many pros- perous communities in the Spokane Valley. Here Louis Lee maintained his Half-way House for travelers during the mining boom in the Coeur d'Alene district in 1884-5. Right from East Farms 1 m. on a bituminous-surfaced road that crosses the Spokane River to NEWMAN LAKE (boating, fishing, camps). SPOKANE BRIDGE, 1 m. (2,114 alt., 48 pop.), a boom town in the early sixties, has now only a store, a railway station, and a few scattered houses. In 1862 A. C. Kendall built a cabin and established a trading post here; two years later a bridge was constructed, and in 1867 a post office was established. Mail carriers on horseback followed the Mullan Road through the settlement on their way to the mines of the Coeur d'Alenes and the Bitterroot Mountains. The murder of Kendall in 1875 by one Joe Leonard is still gossiped about by old timers. Leonard escaped, only to be slain in 1877, while serving as a
scout for the United States Army during the Nez Perce Indian War. On the S1te of Horse Slaughter Camp, 1.4 m., Colonel George Wright's troops in September 1858, shot 700 horses belonging to a band of Indian herders, in order to prevent the continuation of the war. For years farmers used the "bone pile" for fertilizer, and even today bones of the slain ponies are occasionally found. At 4.2 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left on this road to LIBERTY LAKE, 2 m., a summer resort (fishing, boating). The lake was named for Stephen Liberty (or Liberte), a native of Quebec and one of the earliest settlers. Liberty chose the career of guide and mail carrier, after having been educated for the priesthood. He married an Indian woman and finally settled on the Coeur d'Alene Reservation. Liberty Creek, 4 m., is the starting point for a trail trip to MICA PEAK, 10 m. (5,285 alt.). West of the junction US 10 follows the course of the Spokane River. GREENACRES, 6.8 m. (2,039 alt., 1,000 pop.), is a community of garden tracts. Once this area was the center of extensive irrigation, but shortage of water has led to retrenchment. Central Valley H1gh School, at the western edge of the village, was completed in 1928, and is an important institution in the valley, with its spreading grounds and five-acre playfield. VERADALE, 8.6 m. (1,995 alt., 35 pop.), is the trading center for prosperous truck-farmers, who grow and ship great quantities of cantaloupes and tomatoes. A larger community in this truck-farming region is OPPORTUNITY, at 10.6 m. (1,975 alt, 1,500 pop.). DISHMAN, 12.6 m. (1,950 alt, 300 pop.), marked by numerous fruit stands and small produce markets, was founded in 1889 by A . T. Dishman, who shot the granite cliffs just south of town to open a quarry. Modern business buildings line the highway, and during the growing season the town is a busy shopping center. Brick and lime plants and a factory for the fabrication of aluminum truck and bus bodies employ more than 200 people. Stone is still being cut in the quarry. Right from Dishman on Argonne Road is MILLWOOD, 2 m. (1,953 alt., 242 pop.), with a paper mill surrounded by mill workers' cottages. On the brink of Riblet Point, a brown cliff rising 450 feet above the Spokane River, is Wh1te M1ss1on (private), once reached by a specially constructed electrical aerial tramway. West of Dishman, 13.8 m., US 10 crosses the old Mullan Road, once a military wagon road connecting Walla Walla with Fort Ben- ton, at the head of navigation on the Missouri River. It was surveyed and constructed by Captain John Mullan between 1859-62. US 10 is locally known as the Apple Way. At the Oh1o Match Company Plant, 14 m., wood blocks for matches are made from white pine for shipment to the company's fac- tories in the East. Lava in pillared formations and weathered piles, with clusters of lupine, Juneberry, serviceberry, and rockroses in the crevices, give character to the landscape.
SPOKANE, 19 m. (2,039 alt., 122,001 pop.). (See Spokane). Left from center of Spokane on Riverside Ave. to Monroe St.; R. on Mon- roe St. to Northwest Blvd.; L. on Northwest Blvd. to the junction of Seven- Mile Road, 7 m. Left on Seven-Mile Road across a bridge to DEEP CREEK CANYON, 9.2 m., a deep gash cut by the force of glacial water. Egg-shaped boulders balance on end, and needles of basaltic stone, left by the rushing waters, rise above the level of the canyon floor. The little creek at the bottom is almost lost at times among the rock formations; finally it emerges, eddying swiftly over smooth, round boulders and tumbling in a series of cataracts over the jagged rocks below. NINE-MILE DAM, 10.7 m., is one of the power developments of Spokane River. Across the bridge, at 11.2 m., the road swings left to the S1te of Spokane House, 13.2 m., the earliest post of the North West Fur Company in Washington. Spokane House, established in 1810 under orders from David Thompson, the surveyor, for nearly 16 years bartered for the furs of the wilderness. In 1821 the North West Company united with the Hudson's Bay Company, and in 1826 the business of the post was transferred to Fort Colvile (see Tour 5). A journal of March 21, 1826, states: "The blacksmith and cook, the only two men we have now here, employed collecting all the iron about the place, stripping the hinges off the doors . . . ." At 26.2 m. on US 10 is the western junction with US 395 (see Tour 6b). West of the junction, the highway climbs gradually but steadily. The southern extremities of the Pend Oreille Highlands and Mount Spokane (R) appear darkly purple. Scabrock vestiges of the lava plain that survived the eroding glacial waters of prehistoric times are visible. The buttes (L) form the eastern end of the Spokane Divide, a small distinct fold in the earth's crust originating in the Badger Mountains. The highway runs through a barren plain sprinkled with dry grass; snow fences appear at intervals on both sides of the road; scrubby trees dot the landscape. Fairly large farmhouses, red barns, and windmills are seen at infrequent intervals. Spokane Pla1ns Monument, 30.5 m., a rustic stone pyramid, nine feet high, commemorates the S1te of the Battle of Spokane Pla1ns, fought on September 5, 1858. Rumors that the Mullan Road would bring a flood of whites into the region had caused an uprising of allied Coeur d'Alene, Palouse, and Spokane Indians. Colonel George Wright, with 700 men, decisively defeated the Indians at this point after a running battle from Four Lakes (see Tour 6b). A cluster of neat houses and buildings marks DEEP CREEK, 33.6 m. (2,309 alt., 35 pop.). Founded in 1878, it was a milling point during the eighties. Deep fishing holes are formed by Deep Creek Falls, and there is a trout farm near by. At 36.8 m. is a junction with Coulee Hite Road, graveled. Right on this road 7 m. to Coulee-Hite Road Extension: Right here 1.8 m. to Camp Wash1ngton Monument. The stone, now marking the historic Col- ville-Walla Walla Road, was erected in 1908, at Four Mound School, approx- imately five miles to the northeast. After a storm of protests by historians, it was moved to the present site in 1928. Three-fourths of a mile southwest at the Forks of Coulee Creek is the site of Camp Washington, where Isaac I. Stevens, first Territorial governor, made his first camp in the Territory.
3I0 WA SHINGTON REARDAN, 46.2 m. (2,498 alt., 422 pop.), came into existence after enterprising settlers dug a well here and proved to railroad en- gineers that water was available. It once was called Capp's Place, but the name was changed to honor a civil engineer of the Central Wash- ington Railway after the line was extended through the site in 1889. Mule shows, at which especially fine animals of the Northwest were exhibited, were held annually until 1915; by then tractors had super- seded draft animals in wheat farming. Reardan is mostly dependent upon the farmers of the surrounding territory. Facing the highway are several modern buildings and a flour and feed mill. In a two-story brick building at city center is the Reardan branch of the Old National Bank of Spokane, and to the right is the large steel grain elevator of the Washington Grain and Milling Company. West of Reardan the highway, paralleling the railroad, cuts through rolling, treeless lands and a few isolated farms. Occasionally a band of sheep may be glimpsed, browsing on the yellow grass or around stacks of straw. Snow fences made of wired wooden pickets lie rolled up along the highway, awaiting winter use. At 53.3 m. is a junction with a gravel road to MONDOVI, 1 m. Farther along the main highway several gas tanks, with small buildings grouped about them, come into view. The railroad crosses the highway at 56.7 m., and continues parallel with it. At 59.2 m., is a cluster of Standard Oil Company tanks. DAVENPORT, 59.9 m. (2,409 alt., 1,337 pop.), situated in the Big Bend wheat country, is the largest town on the Columbia plateau and the seat of Lincoln County. The highway enters on Morgan Street, which is lined with prosperous-appearing buildings, mostly of yellow and red brick. The red-brick Presbyterian Church looms prominently. For 12 years, citizens of Davenport and Sprague contended for the county seat. An election held in 1884 resulted in more votes being cast than there were people in the two towns. It was charged that children and passengers on through trains voted, and that names were taken from the tombstones in cemeteries. Sprague won the election chiefly because it could import voters by railroad, while Davenport was forced to transport them by horseback. Davenport citizens threw breastworks around the courthouse and posted guards to prevent removal of county records, but Sprague forces obtained the ledgers when the local guards tired. In 1896, however, Davenport was made the county seat by legislative action. Near by was Cottonwood Springs, a favorite campsite of Indians and traders as late as 1878, when C. B. Sparks took a claim one mile north of the present town. Davenport, named for J. C. Daven- port, who established a store here shortly after 1880, is now a trade and shopping center for the Cedar Canyon mining district and has several huge grain elevators, mills, and a soda water factory. At Davenport are junctions with State 22 (see Tour 5), and with State 7 (see Tour lA). CRESTON, 81 m. (2,462 alt., 281 pop.), was named about 1889
by engineers for the Northern Pacific Railway, because Brown's Butte, overlooking the town on the south, is the crest of land in the Big Bend Country. The town made headlines August 5, 1902, when Harry Tracy, notorious outlaw, committed suicide here. Tracy had roamed the country as a desperate criminal until finally confined in the Oregon State Penitentiary. On July 9, 1902, he escaped with a convict named Merrill, after killing one guard and wounding another. Identified by a rancher near Creston, he was trailed by a posse and shot himself rather than surrender. Creston pioneers remember the keen competition and occasional warfare between cattlemen and early settlers. Survey stakes were pulled up so that homesteaders could not establish claims, and local surveyors thrived on homeseekers' fees. The town has a farm- implement factory and two grain elevators. Scattered across the valley west of town are low-lying ranch houses. WILBUR, 89.9 m. (2,166 alt., 1,011 pop.), depends largely on the Columbia River Flour Milling plant, where flour, bran, shorts, and middlings are produced. It is also a shipping point for the San Poil mining district in the Okanogan country (see Tour ya). Com- pletion of the Grand Coulee Dam will increase Wilbur's importance as a trading center. The few scattered maple and poplar trees lining the business streets are noticeable in a country where trees are rare. The E. R.Hesselt1ne L1brary (open 7-9 Wed.; 1-5 Sat.), named for the man who donated the first books to the collection, is housed in the City Hall. In the tiny C1ty Park is a municipal swimming pool, 125 feet long, a popu- lar spot in the hot summer months when it offers the only facilities for swimming within many miles. To the left of the park is Wilbur Creek, locally called Goose Creek. At 85.7 m. is the junction with a bituminous-surfaced road. Right on this road to the CONDIT CABIN (private), 0.3 m., the first homestead of Samuel Wilbur Condit, who founded Wilbur in 1887. Condit, who traded with the miners and Indians, was known as "Wild Goose Bill" because, while freighting supplies to the Okanogan, he shot into what he thought was a flock of wild geese, only to discover later he had brought down a tame gander belonging to a pioneer settler. Prior to the platting and incorporation of Wilbur in 1889, the little community was nicknamed "Goose- town." West of the junction is a municipally operated recreational area and Race Track, with a half-mile oval and grandstand. The track is one of four in the State where pari-mutuel betting is carried on under the jurisdiction of the Washington State Racing Commission. The racing events, lasting three days, are usually held in late September, following the close of the season at Playfair in Spokane. Beyond the junction with State 4 (see Tour 7a), at 90.8 m., US 10 traverses mile after mile of wheatlands. ALMlRA, 101.5 m. (1,917 alt., 446 pop-), named in honor of Mrs. Almira Davis, wife of the town's first merchant, has grown rapidly since construction on the Coulee Dam began. It is a shipping point for wheat; nearly 750,000 bushels are handled each year through its warehouses. At Almira is
a junction with State 2, which runs to Coulee Dam (see Tour 1B). HARTLINE, 110.7 m. (1,911 alt., 168 pop.), with its row of towering wheat elevators along the railroad tracks, owes its economic existence to the fertile wheatlands surrounding it. The townsite was part of the holdings of John Hartline. West of Hartline are evidences of a large lake that once flooded the area. According to geologists, this silty depression among the scablands, known locally as Dry Alkali Lake, is a part of the Hartline Basin. Glacial deposits of silt, sand, and gravel are several hundred feet deep. As US 10 continues across the ancient lake bed, the scablands appear again, and plant and animal life are limited. The scaly hackberry, rabbit and antelope brush, peppergrass, and occasional lupine harbor jack rabbits, sage hens, and rattlesnakes. In the summer tumbleweeds roll aimlessly down the highway. At 119.4 m. is the junction with State 2-F, a bituminous-surfaced road (see Tour 1B). At 122.3 m. is a junction with a bituminous-surfaced road. Left on this road is COULEE CITY, 0.5 m. (1,584 alt., 744 pop.), the only point between the site of Coulee Dam and Soap Lake, (see Tour \A) where the Grand Coulee can be crossed. In the early days of the region, Coulee City was the junction point of the railroad and stage lines running to points along the Columbia River and to the Okanogan country. Guy Waring, in My Pioneer Past, comments: "At Coulee City the branch train arrived too late for the stage which took you to Bridgeport on the Columbia River. Train and stage were scheduled to miss each other, and were invariably faithful to schedule. Had they connected the hotel would have died . . . ." At 122.8 m. is the junction with a branch of State 7, a bituminous- surfaced road. Left on this road to DRY FALLS STATE PARK, 1.5 m. (hunting, discharge of firearms, removal of shrubs, flowers or rocks prohibited). A rustic stone V1sta House (visitors register) overlooks the scarred walls of the extinct falls, where a cataract many times greater than Niagara once plunged, a gigantic waterfall with a sheer drop of 417 feet and a width of nearly 3 miles. The dry falls were caused by the erosive glacial waters, the ice cap having changed the course of the Columbia River. Various geologic periods are illustrated in the strata of the walls, and leaves and trees are fossilized in the strata. A trail winds from Vista House down the face of the cliff to the bottom of the falls. At the base of the cliff are Perch and Deep lakes. As the road winds south from the vista house down many horseshoe curves, the canyon ahead may be seen at various angles. At 4.3 m. on the main side road is a junction with a dirt road to FALL LAKE, 2 m. and DEEP LAKE 3 m. The main side road runs between cliff walls resembling cordwood stacked end on end, each piece of different color because of the moss and lichen. At PARK LAKE, 4.7 m., the canyon walls are reflected in dark, still water. DRY COULEE, 6.6 m., extends east and south into the Hartline basin. The erosion of this lower half of the Grand Coulee is even more interesting than that of the upper coulee. Because of the presence of a narrow outlet into Hartline Basin, glacial waters coursed through interlacing channels. At times spread out over a width of 13 miles, they rushed down the southern slope of a fold, forming a series of rapids and waterfalls that carved out the wildest and most spectacular of the abandoned channels of the scablands. Monads, grim relics of rocks not eroded by the sand-laden water, rise from the canyon floor.
Photograph courtesy Washington State Progress Commission TACOMA (MOUNT RAINIER IN BACKGROUND)
Photograph by Frank Jacobs MSINESS DISTRICT, SEATTLE
Photograph courtesy of Seattle Post-Intelligencer JAPANESE GIRLS DANCE IN A FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION IN SEATTLE YOUNGSTERS TAKING A RIDE IN A WPA NURSERY SCHOOL Photograph courtesy of Work Projects Administration
- º - - - -- º --- - - - - - º - - - THE FIRST HOME OF THE UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON Built in the early 1860's. The columns are now in the Sylvan Theatre on the University Campus COVINGTON HOUSE, WANCOUVER - -
- * - - - ". - - - Photograph courtesy of Pancouver Chamber of Commerce
BELLINGHAM AIRVIEW, SPOKANE Photograph courtesy of Spokane Chamber of Commerce
THE PIONEER MOTHER Statue by Avard Fairbanks, Vancouver
CAMPUS, WASHINGTON STATE COLLEGE, PULLMAN - i -- -
Photograph by Lang?; courtesy of Farm Security Adm. MAIN STREET OF A TYPICAL BOOM CONSTRUCTION TOWN MILL WORKERS' COTTAGES Photograph by Lange; courtesy of Farm Security Adm.
AT BLUE LAKE, 9.7 m., at the southern end of Park Lake, are bathing beaches and camp grounds. The stained sections of the rock walls record the history of many lava flows and of intervening periods when soil accumulated. After the seventh flow from the top cooled, trees grew up, but the next flow covered them. Only fossilized stumps remain. At SOAP LAKE, 21.0 m. (1,206 alt., 622 pop.), the branch of State 7 reaches its junction with State 7 (see Tour 1A). West of the junction with branch State 7, US 10 winds up from the coulee floor, allowing a comprehensive view, especially of the lower coulee. Wheat fields again appear as the summit of the plateau is reached. The Cascade Mountains come into view. MOSES COULEE, 135.5 m., named for Chief Moses (see Tour 1A), was also formed by glacial floods. The highway at first descends gently along the coulee's eroded upper walls, serpentines along a man- made shelf blasted from solid cliffs, then levels off across the coulee floor. Nearly every color in the spectrum appears with the change in seasons and the play of light. Leaving the coulee, the highway dips up and down through waving fields of wheat to the Waterville plateau. In the bottom of a small coulee, at 159.1 m., is DOUGLAS (2,509 alt., 60 pop.). In 1883, four days after Lincoln County was created, the Territorial legislators cut out of it another county, and named it for Stephen A. Douglas. The town adopted the name. At 163.6 m. the highway curves through the shaded streets of WATERVILLE (2,617 alt., 939 pop.). Clay pits and limestone quarries add to the town's revenue. Waterville has had three names: it was Okanogan City in 1884, when it was the main stopping point on the road to the Okanogan country toward the north; later it was called Jumper's Flats because of claim-jumping activity prior to the construction of the railroad; it was finally platted as Waterville, when water was secured from a 30-foot well. Horse racing is an annual fall event, with a pari-mutuel track operating under the Washington State Racing Commission. US 10 descends into picturesque PINE CANYON, 166.6 m., (2,800 alt.), where yellow pines grow on steep rocky slopes. Many hairpin turns, cut from rocky walls, permit brief glimpses of the road far below in the canyon. As the bottom of the canyon is reached, after a 2,000-foot descent, the road winds among willows and cottonwoods. Right at 173.4 m. is a junction (R) to Orondo Ferry. ORONDO, 175.1 m., (704 alt., 325 pop.), was founded by J. B. Smith in 1886 and named for the Indian Orondo, whose people worked in the ancient Lake Superior copper mines. The village is at the mouth of Pine Canyon, on the Columbia River. A ferry (50c daytime, 75c at night) connects with Entiat (see Tour 4A). Right from Orondo on a graveled road along the Columbia River to what is locally known as an Abor1g1nal Cave Dwell1ng, 6 m. When the cave was cleared by a rancher to make room for apple storage, a flint knife with a wooden handle, an ornate pipe in a cedar case, and various other articles
3H WASHINGTON were found in it. Circular underground dwellings, similar to this cave, were often used as shelters by Okanogan Indians before the white man came. US 10 turns south at Orondo and follows the eastern bank of the Columbia. At 180.5 m. a roadside marker calls attention to L1ncoln Rock, across the river. At 189.4 m. EAST WENATCHEE (268 pop.) lies at the east end of the long, high steel bridge spanning the Columbia River (see Wenatchee). In east Wenatchee is a junction with State 10. Southeast on State 10 along the eastern bank of the river to ROCK ISLAND, at 8.4 to., (615 alt., 130 pop.). At 11 m. is the Picture Rock Service Station. Opposite the latter, between the highway and the small red railroad station, is a rock with thousand-year-old petroglyphs and crude aboriginal carvings, now barely visible. Before the Rock Island dam was built, numerous rocks with petroglyphs could be seen on islands in the river. Rock Island Dam, 11.5 to., on the Columbia River, owned by the Puget Sound Power and Light Company, was completed in 1931. Its abutments, spillway, power house, flood gates, and fish ways are easily accessible from the highway. South of the dam, tourists are warned against falling rocks, for the bluffs (L) consist of cracked stone. At 16.4 m. a bridge crosses Moses Coulee Creek. Only during the early springtime is there any water in the creek, and then it becomes a turbulent stream. East of TRINIDAD, 24 m. (900 alt., 210 pop.), State 10 winds up-grade from the Columbia River. The quality of the land improves, scattered orchards and farms appear. At 29 m. is a sweeping view of the Columbia River from the Columbia Plateau. In QUINCY, 31.2 m. (1,301 alt., 318 pop.), (see Tour 1A), is a junction with State 7 (see Tour 1A). West of the junction with State 10, US 10 crosses the Columbia River to reach WENATCHEE, 190.9 m. (639 alt., 11,627 P°p.), (see Wenatchee). US 10 crosses the winding Wenatchee River, turns north at 194.3 m., and unites with US 97 (see Tour fa) until it reaches Teanaway. Outside of Wenatchee, the highway becomes a narrow lane between apple orchards, a foam of bloom in the spring. At the opening of the harvest season, which begins early with peaches, pears, and soft fruits, the valley is the mecca for thousands who seek work in the orchards. Men, women, and children in all sorts of vehicles invade the city, crowd the auto camps, and fill the camps established on the fruit ranches by the owners. Far and wide amid the immense, heavily laden trees the workers move, with picking bags and long stepladders. While the soft fruit is being gathered, the long sprays of the apple trees sag with red- dening fruit. Even though thinning has been done, props must be placed under the heavy limbs to prevent them from being torn off by the weight. Finally the main business of the year, the apple harvest, begins. Trucks rumble to the warehouses; pickers and packers, boxmakers and nailers work with flying hands; mountainous piles of new boxes vanish into the orchards and emerge filled with luscious.fruit; there is labor, bustle, and the all-pervading scent of apples. MONITOR, 198.8 m. (697 alt., 165 pop.), is a typical apple- country town. Its warehouses and attractive school plant are con- spicuous.
CASHMERE (E. Ind. valley city), 203.1 m. (797 alt., 1,465 pop.), shaded by locust and maple trees, is known as the home of "Aplets, the confection of the fairies," a sweetmeat flavored with apple juice and enriched by walnuts and spices. Mills manufacture boxes for the shipment of apples, pears, and cherries. In the early spring, hundreds of sportsmen throughout the State and British Columbia are attracted by the Clam Bake sponsored by the Eastern Washington Sportsmen's Association. West of Cashmere, US 10-97 follows the banks of the winding Wenatchee River, above which rise foothills dotted with clumps of pines. Orchards claim every available foot of valley land. DRYDEN, 208.2 m. (938 alt., 250 pop.), a fruit-packing and shipping center, was named by the Great Northern Railroad in honor of a noted Cana- dian horticulturist. At 211.2 m. is a junction with State 15 (see Tour 1C); US 10-97 turns left here. At Ingalls Creek Lodge, 214 m. (1,955 alt.), is a foaming fall of considerable volume. A store and other facilities are to be found at Ingalls Creek Forest Camp, near the border of the Wenatchee National Forest. Right from the forest camp on a trail along the creek to INGALLS LAKE, 15.5 m., at the base of Stuart's Pass. South of the Guard Station the route is marked by many sharp curves. (Cars vnth trailer) should halt at turnouts; falling rocks are hazards). There is a legend that NIGGER CREEK, 215.5 m., was so named because a Negro took a fortune in gold from its bed. Along slopes bordering the creek, soldiers under Captain George B. McClellan dis- covered quartz veins in 1853. BLEWETT, 216.5 m. (2,325 alt, 54 pop.), now only a handful of cabins, once had a population of more than 250 miners. Prospectors returning from the Cariboo and Fraser districts in 1860 wandered into the foothills of the Cascade Mountains and began placer mining on the creeks. Prior to 1879, Blewett was reached only by trail; in that year a wagon road was built from Cle Elum over the Wenatchee divide. Instead of wagons, saddle horses, and pack mules, today shiny new cars and rattling older models are parked under the pines. Numerous per- forations visible in the mountain sides around Blewett are test holes sunk by early prospectors to tap quartz veins. Despite the large-scale development of gold mining, few prospectors continue their lone search for the scarce yellow metal. SHASER, 220 m., below Sheep Mountain (L), is a Forest Service Guard Station (camping facilities). BLEWETT PASS SUMMIT, at 225.2 m. (4,071 alt.), is reached after a twisting climb. A rustic lodge overlooks the upper reaches of the Yakima Valley (winding descent; drive carefully). The next few miles southwest are dense forest. The highway passes through the canyon of Swauk Creek, where tunnels and tailing dumps of old mines are still in evidence along the steep sides. This Swauk formation occu- pies an area of 1,000 square miles, extending from Lake Wenatchee
3l6 WA SHINGTON across the Wenatchee River and over the Wenatchee Mountains to the Yakima Valley. Many people come here for winter sports because of deep snows and clear, cold weather. At 226 m. is a junction with a forest road. Left into the Swauk Recreation Area, 1 m. Camping sites are on the bank of a quiet stream, amid a beautiful stand of ponderosa pine. M1neral Spr1ngs Forest Camp, 228 m. (2,700 alt.), on Baker Creek, is a sulphur spring around which a forest camp has been built. LIBERTY, 235 m. (2,412 alt., 78 pop.), is a placer settlement. Along Williams Creek, which winds past the settlement, nuggets valued as high as $65 have been found. According to old-timers, a single pan once ran as high as $1,365. The L1berty Ranger Stat1on is head- quarters for the Liberty District of the Wenatchee National Forest. SWAUK PRAIRIE, 238 m. (2,250 alt., 100 pop.), another placer-mining community, is at a point where the highway gradually emerges from the shade of the ravine to the brightness of the open prairie. South of Swauk Prairie, meadows and occasional swampy lands stretch on both sides. The carpet of green is welcome after so many miles of sand, rocks, and sagebrush eastward along the route. TEANAWAY, 246.8 m. (1,936 alt., 100 pop.), came into exist- ence as a stopping point at the foot of two mountain passes, when four- horse vehicles caromed through the canyons and along the dusty roads. An old, weather-beaten, T-shaped building (R) is a remnant of the past. At Teanaway US 10 and US 97 divide; US 10 turns westward (see Tour 1b); US 97 continues southward (see Tour yb). Section b. TEANAWAY ro SEATTLE, 100.9 ™. US 10 West of TEANAWAY, 0 m., US 10 follows the northern bank of the Yakima River. Scrubby pines, with a scattering of willows along the river's edge, mark the semi-arid country. The highway runs through the flat area marking the western side of the Kittitas Valley and crosses the Cascade Range over Snoqualmie Pass, artery of the heaviest travel between eastern and western Washington. Traversing a vast recreational area of national forests, with many lakes, streams, and rugged mountains, US 10 reaches the summit at 3,004 feet elevation and drops down to the populous region along the eastern shores of Puget Sound. CLE ELUM (Ind. swift water), 4 m. (1,907 alt, 2,230 pop.), on a flat between the mountains at the junction of the Cle Elum and Yakima Rivers, was named for the river that tumbles down from Lake Cle Elum, eight miles to the northeast. Although the first settler, Thomas L. Gambel, a prospector, came in 1870, the town did not begin to develop until after the discovery of coal in 1884, when North- ern Pacific Railway Company geologists surveyed the area for fuel deposits to supply locomotives on the long haul over the mountains. In 1886 the railroad tracks reached the settlement. Despite a disastrous forest fire and the removal of the town's sawmill, the discovery of new
coal veins and pockets in 1889 kept the town alive. Completion of the railroad connected Cle Elum with the Puget Sound region. Four years later, a fire left the 1,900 inhabitants homeless, but the town was quickly rebuilt. The market for coal has been reduced, partly because of the development of water power, but mining is still important to the town. Cle Elum also ships lumber and farm and dairy products. Hothouses (visitors welcome), at the end of 4th St. E., grow and ship 100,000 blooms of roses and carnations a year. In Cle Elum at 5 m. is a junction with State 2-E, a paved highway. Right here 0.5 m. to the Cle Elum Ranger Stat1on, headquarters of the Cle Elum Ranger District of the Wenatchee National Forest. This district embraces the headwaters of the Yakima, Cle Elum, and Teanaway Rivers and, because of its high mountains and dense forests, conserves an important part of the water supply for irrigation projects in the Kittitas and Yakima valleys. North of the Ranger Station is ROSYLN, 3.2 m. (2,218 alt., 1,743 poP-). a coal-mining town. After the Northern Pacific began mining here in 1886, with approximately 500 laborers, life in the little settlement was disturbed periodically by industrial strife and tragic disasters. Forty-five men were killed in a mine explosion in May 1892; in a second explosion in October 1909, ten miners were killed. Today modern mining methods are in operation, greatly lessening the danger of explosion, and the town has achieved a peaceful solution of its industrial troubles. Descendants of Negroes, who were imported in 1888 to break a strike led by the Knights of Labor, now join with the miners in celebrating Seven Hour Day on the first of April each year; and Roslyn fittingly observes Emancipation Day on August 4. Machine methods, introduced in the mines in 1929, have cut down the time required for digging out the coal "workrooms," and explosions are prevented by spraying mine walls with lime, which keeps combustible dust from collecting. Many quaint Old-World traditions survive among the citizens, who are mostly of European stock—Slav, Italian, and Austrian. A courtship custom among the Croats and Slavs decrees that, when a man wishes to propose, he must take a crowd of men friends to the girl's house and there, on bended knees, make his proposal. If he is rejected, he buys a keg of beer in which the common grief may be drowned; if he is accepted, his friends pay the wedding fees. The Northwestern Improvement Company Mine (visitors welcome), east end of Pennsylvania Avenue, is the largest mine in operation. The company took over the Roslyn claims in 1898, when legislation denied railroads the right to work mines. The Johnson House, corner N. 2nd and Utah Sts., the only log cabin remaining in Roslyn, was built in 1880 by "Cayuse" Johnson. Castle Rock, on Pennsylvania Ave., three blocks E. of the city limits, is a picturesquely turreted formation. A cave under the rock is used for picnics. RONALD, 5.2 m. (2,346 alt., 496 pop.), is a mining camp on the site of the old Number Three stope of the Roslyn field, which furnished coal for trains crossing the Cascades when it was owned by the Northern Pacific. It was taken over later by the Northwestern Improvement Company. A graveled road leads straight ahead to CLE ELUM LAKE. At 8 m., the southern end of the lake, is a dam (L) which aids in water conservation con- trol for the Kittitas Valley irrigation projects. It was completed in 1933. The water storage capacity created by the 140-foot dam is 450,000 acre feet. Here, according to Indian legend, was the habitat of Wishpoosh, an enormous beaver, who roamed over the earth destroying lesser creatures. At that time only the animal people inhabited the earth. Speelyia, the Coyote-god, challenged Wish- poosh to combat, and during the struggle that followed, Wishpoosh tore out the banks of the Keechelus, sending most of the water rushing down the
canyon, creating many lakes in the Yakima Valley. The greatest lake of all, backed up by the Umatilla Highlands and the Cascades, finally broke through the mountains and created the Columbia River. Wishpoosh was washed into the ocean, where he devoured whales and fish, until Speelyia, transforming himself into a floating branch, drifted down the river and into Wishpoosh's mouth. Once inside, Speelyia resumed his former shape and size and with his knife-edged teeth slew the belligerent beaver. He then divided the carcass of Wishpoosh and from it formed Indian tribes. The forest road skirts the lake to Salmon La Sac Guard Stat1on, 18 m. (3,395 alt.), headquarters for trail trips. North of Salmon La Sac the forest road is through beautiful mountain meadows. The F1sh Lake Guard Stat1on, 34 m. (3,325 alt,), is on Fish Lake, which affords excellent fishing (eastern brook trout) during July and August. Huckleberries are plentiful in the region during September. Near by is a granite formation, some of whose serrated spires rise more than 8,000 feet. The area is characterized by swift mountain streams that rise in perpetual snows and glaciers, numerous lakes with abundant trout, and a variety of large and small game. Many crumbling cabins and prospect holes remain from early attempts to find precious metals in the vicinity. West of the junction at Cle Elum, rugged, forested mountains, scarred by rock slides, rise on either side of US 10. Stands of second- growth timber grow above the charred skeletons of burned-over forest areas; beyond are growths of green spruce and fir. After crossing the Cle Elum River, at 6.5 m., the highway roughly parallels the Yakima River, which it crosses at 8.5 m. At 10.8 m. Little Creek is crossed, and Big Creek at 12.2 m. EASTON, 16.1 m., (2,168 alt, 251 pop.), serves as a junction point for both the Northern Pacific and the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific railroads. Most of the buildings are new, having been erected since 1934, when the town was virtually destroyed by fire. At 17.7 m. is a junction with a dirt side road. Right here 1 m. to KACHESS (Ind. many fish) LAKE, (2,231 alt.). Trap- pers^ trails are clearly marked in the neighborhood woods. During the road surveys of 1853, George B. McClellan's men camped here. The young officer had been asked by Governor Isaac I. Stevens to explore the Cascades and find a pass over which a railroad could be built. Spending three months with his well-equipped party in the mountain wilderness. McClellan reached the Canadian Line but failed to discover a pass to Puget Sound. West of the Junction, US 10 ascends through green forest to a junction with a dirt road at 25 m. Left here 5.5 m. to the eastern entrance of the Stampede Tunnel of the Northern Pacific Railway. The tunnel, completed May 3, 1888, after two years of work on the two-mile cut, cost $1,000,000 and at least 13 lives. Its name was derived from a "stampede" of trail-cutters, driven so hard by their fore- man that they abandoned their tools, rolled their blankets, and stampeded down the trail. The highway skirts the timbered mountain slopes. Vegetation is much thicker; canyons and steep hills alternate along the winding road. At 26.1 m. is the Nobel Creek Forest Camp. KEECHELUS (Ind. few fish) LAKE, 27 m. (2,475 alt), is in a basin, whose timbered sides rise abruptly 1,000 feet. Lake Keeche- lus Dam, 500 feet long, extending across the lake's southern end,
regulates the flow of the Yakima River for irrigation and conservation purposes. Pyramidal peaks, bristling with greenish-black forest and flecked with snow, are mirrored in the lake. Skeleton trees, part of the forest inundated by the construction of the dam, stand in the shallower shore waters. Sunset Lodge (hotel accommodations), 28.5 m. (2,490 alt., 20 pop.), has a stage depot and telegraph station. Rocky Run Forest Camp (stoves and tables), 30.8 m., (2,500 alt.), is operated by the Forest Service on Rocky Run Creek, where numerous falls have been sculptured out of bedrock. The toll road used by early travelers over Snoqualmie Pass is plainly marked through the camp. Westward the highway cuts through solid rock, high above the water that laps against the precipitous cliff. HYAK (Ind. hurry), 32.9 m. (2,499 *lt, 60 pop.), a commercial resort, overhangs the lake bank, at the eastern end of the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad tunnel through the Cascades. At this point the highway swings away from Lake Keechelus. Left from Hyak 2 m. by trail to SNOQUALMIE SKI BOWL (limited hotel accommodations), operated during the winter (December through March) by the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railway. The 250 acres of the bowl contain five slides, ranging in length from 1,200 to 1,600 feet. A lift conveys skiers to the top of the hill. The route turns from the northern shore of the lake and enters the forest. SUMMIT, 35.4 m. (3,004 alt., 80 pop.), is the highest point on US 10. Snoqualmie has the lowest altitude of the three main passes across the Cascades; and, in the days when travel was slower, it was the first night's stop east of Puget Sound. Rainfall in this area is frequent in early and late summer; mists obscure the heights. Markers here indicate the boundary between the Wenatchee and Snoqualmie National forests. At 35.5 m. is the junction with a narrow trail. Left on the trail 200 feet to the log chalet of the Seattle Sk1 Club. At 1.2 m. are the two jumping hills, one with a 30-foot, and the other a 60-foot, takeoff. At 35.6 m. is the junction with another trail. Left here 0.2 m. to the warming house of the Mun1c1pal Sk1 Lodge of the City of Seattle. Behind the house are three hills cleared and marked for skiers. One slide is approximately 300 feet long, the second, 500 feet, and the third, a slalom course with turns, 600 feet long. A privately owned ski lift takes skiers to the top of the hill ($1 daily; 2 rides 25c). US 10 begins the descent of the western slope of the Cascades, where differences in climate, vegetation, and the flow of creeks and streams are apparent. Thick tangles of salal and Oregon grape grow beneath tall Douglas fir and hemlock, and huckleberry bushes jut from decay- ing stumps and windfalls. At 35.9 m. is COMMONWEALTH •CREEK (camping space, stoves, tables; good water) (2,000 alt.). Denny Creek Forest Camp (picturesque cabins and camping facilities), 36.5 m., is operated by the Forest Service. Many tracts of
land within this section of the Snoqualmie National Forest, isolated from the highway, have been set aside for summer homes. The tracts may be leased from the Government for as little as $15 a year, with privileges of renewal. (Information is obtainable from District Ranger at North Bend, or from Forest Supervisor, Federal Bldg., Seattle). The Snoqualmie River was named for a tribe of Indians who dwelt on this slope. Edmond S. Meany, historian, in giving the origin of the word, said: "The Whites have softened the native word sdob-dwahlb- bluh (Ind. moon) which refers to the legend that their people came from the moon." Indian legend asserts that Si'Beow, the beaver, climbed to the sky, brought the trees and fire to earth, set the sun for daylight, and created the Snoqualmie. At 40.1 m. the highway crosses the South Fork Snoqualmie River, traverses a flat plateau covered with meadows where herds of cattle graze. Rustic shake fences of interlocking split-cedar rails line the roadside, and lonely farm-houses occasionally appear. At 56.9 m. is the North Bend Ranger Stat1on of the Snoqualmie National Forest, and at 57 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right on this road 1 m. to the foot of a trail leading to the summit of MOUNT SI (4,190 alt.), a towering and lone sentinel. It is a day's trip from the base to the summit and return. A small creek, about one-fifth of the dis- tance up, offers the last water. NORTH BEND, 57.7 m. (456 alt, 646 pop.), where the South Fork of the Snoqualmie swings northward, is the trade center and shipping point of a farming and dairying district. When platted by William T. Taylor and his wife, Mary, in February 1889, the town- site was called Snoqualmie; later it was called Mountain View and South Fork. Loggers and sawmill hands from near-by camps and mills make it their headquarters. Paved streets, a city-owned water system, and trim houses testify to the town's progressiveness. The shingle mill, opened here in 1890 by William C. Weeks, made most of the wooden pipe used in Seattle's Cedar River pipe line. SNOQUALMIE, 60.7 m. (434 alt., 775 pop.), became a town during the boom days of lumbering and milling. The first white settlers were the Kellogg brothers, who settled on the prairie above the falls in 1858. Lumbering in the district still employs about 1,800 men, but, since the surrounding country has been logged over, the town has begun to ship more cattle than lumber. Ranches in the hills provide both hogs and steers for Puget Sound packing houses. The local Hop Growers' Association was incorporated in 1882. SNOQUALMIE FALLS, 62 m., is a 270-foot cataract, whose energy is utilized by a private power plant. The falls have cut their way through solid rock, and wind-swept spray forms miniature falls that issue from rock faults at the sides. State Trout Hatchery No. 1, 63.3 m., formerly the Tokul Creek Fish Hatchery, is operated by the State Game Commission. From the surrounding creeks more than 3,000,000 trout eggs are gathered annually, in addition to great quantities of eggs of other species.
US 10 follows a steep and winding, but safe, grade. During the fishing season anglers line the banks of the Snoqualmie River, which flows close to the highway for a distance, then winds far below it. At 65.8 m. is the junction with State 15-B, a bituminous-paved road. Right on this road to CARNATION, 5.2 m. (90 alt, 754 pop.), largely a settlement of Scandinavians engaged in farming and dairying. Founded in 1865, it was called Tolt for the Indian band living near by. In 1917 the State leigslature renamed the town Carnation for the neighboring dairy farm. At 6.8 m. is a junction with a dirt side road. Left here 1.7 m. to the Carna- t1on M1lk Products Company Farms (visitors <welcome on week days), estab- lished by E. A. Stuart in 1909, to breed sires to improve the dairy herds of the Pacific Northwest. Here are registered Holstein-Friesians. In 1936 Carnation Ormsby Butter King produced 38,606 pounds of milk, an average of 50 quarts a day. A statue of a former world-champion cow, also produced at Carnation, is at the entrance. At 16 m. on the main side road is DUVALL (50 alt., 234 pop.), a trading center for the lower Snoqualmie Valley. Large stands of timber supply the near-by mills. During the fall the town is a base point for upland bird hunting. Left from Duvall on State 2-C, a concrete paved road, to WOODIN- VILLE, 26 m. (5o alt., 425 pop.), in the fertile agricultural district of the Sammamish Valley. At BOTHELL, 28 m. (54 alt., 794 pop.) (see Tour %b), is a junction with State 2 (see Tour 84). West of the junction with State 15-B, the Snoqualmie River is crossed by US 10 over a concrete bridge. As late as 1934 men panned the sands below the bridge for gold. Many of the buildings in FALL CITY, 66.1 m. (389 alt., 400 pop.), once known as The Landing, reflect the architectural taste of the eighties. Poultry raising, dairying, and truck farming are the basic activities. In Fall City is a junction with the concrete-paved northern branch of State 2 (State 2-Alt.), an alternate route to Seattle. K. on State 2-Alt. to REDMOND, 13 m. (53 alt., 530 pop.), on the Sammamish River. The town was named for its first postmaster and founder, Luke Redmond, who settled here in 1861. Redmond derives its income from sawmills in the district and from dairying, stock raising, and some fruit growing. Excitement ran high in 1935, when a black bear strayed into town, was treed, and, despite efforts of townspeople and police, sheriff and deputies, remained in the tree three days. North of Redmond State 2-Alt. parallels roughly the Sammamish River, along the western edge of Sammamish Valley. At BOTHELL, 19.1 m. (54 alt., 794 pop.), it swings southwest, along the western shore of Lake Washington, into Seattle, 31.1 m. (see Tour Sb). South of Fall City, US 10 follows Raging River, which, though not raging in late summer, is boulder-strewn and moves swiftly. Grassy banks, beneath stands of maple and willow, and shady pools provide recreation for campers and fishermen. The highway, after a steady climb, runs between a border of tall evergreens, then descends rapidly into the Sammamish Valley. PRESTON, 69.6 m. (508 alt., 405 pop.), is a settlement bordering the millpond of the Preston Mill Company, whose plant quite overshadows the village. ISSAQUAH, 75.8 m. (97 alt., 812 pop.), settled in 1862, is a trade center for the valley. During the World War, the German Count
von Alvenslaben organized the Issaquah and Superior Coal Mining Company, purchasing land and coal rights of a 2,000-acre tract. After more than $1,000,000 had been spent in improvements, the project was abandoned. At the western end of town is a newly constructed F1sh Hatchery, with 20 rearing ponds, 4 of them natural; each pond has a capacity of 50,000 fish. Silver and sockeye salmon are reared here and planted in the Issaquah Creek watershed. At 77.6 m. is a junction with State 2-D, a concrete paved road. Right on this road to LAKE SAMMAMISH, 2 m., whose shores are lined with summer homes and resorts (camping, picnic grounds, fishing). The lake is nine miles long and from one to three miles wide. At 87.8 m. is the junction with a branch of State 5, a concrete- paved road (see Tour 1D). RENTON, 88.8 m. (40 alt., 4,488 pop.), the largest and most active trading center in the vicinity of Seattle, covers the flats formed by the Cedar River and the former Black River. The main street is flanked by one- and two-story frame and brick buildings, some with false fronts reminiscent of early twentieth-century architecture. Many Italian and Austrian names appear above stores and on the windows of taverns, shoe shops, and greengrocer establishments. The Star of Italy and the Italian-American Council are active associations within the town. Dr. R. H. Bigelow discovered coal in the hills at the end of what is now Williams Street in 1853. William Renton, for whom the town was named, was one of the organizers of the coal com- pany which began large-scale operations in 1873. Today, coal mines, clay-products plants, foundries, mills, truck farms on the fertile surrounding flats, greenhouses, and poultry ranches furnish em- ployment for much of the town's population. The Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad curves through the southern edge of town. L1berty Park, Park Avenue and Bronson Way, contains two acres of lawn, with playground facilities, tennis courts, wading pools, and picnic grounds. At the edge of the park is the Carneg1e L1brary (open 2-5; 6:30-9 weekdays), a two-story burned-brick structure built in 1914. The Horse Trough, Wells St. between 2nd and 3rd Aves., near the City Hall, was presented to Renton in 1910 by the local fire de- partment. It is a combination trough and drinking fountain, presided over by a bust of Chief Seattle. The Pac1f1c Foundry Company Plant (admission by pass only), at the foot of Factory St., extends over approximately 40 acres, two- thirds of which are under cover. Glazed and rough tile and heat- resistant clay products are made at the Gladd1ng McBean Company Plant (open 7:30-4 workdays), E. end of Walla Walla Ave., along the tracks of the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad. 1. Left from Renton on Main St. (State 5-C) 0.5 m. to the S1te of the Old Stra1n M1ne, now marked only by a collection of sway-backed, weather- worn bunkers, the remains of a slag heap, and a ramshackle coal washer.
Seepage and slides have nearly obliterated the former entrance. The mine was worked until 1933, when water seepage and thinning of the seams made operations unprofitable. For years the slag heap of waste continued to burn slowly, and the city was overhung by a gray pall. The heap, 500 feet long, 300 feet wide, and 150 feet high, finally was excavated; the slag was taken for the Boeing Airport fill in Seattle and the fill of the Renton Junction cutoff. 2. Right from Renton on Park Ave. (State 2-A), 0.7 m. to the north, the highway crosses the lowlands of the Cedar River Valley, marked by meadows, thickets of willow, and alder, and sparse patches of truck gardens. At 1.3 m. is the Shuffleton Steam Power Plant. Here and there reminders of other days contrast oddly with compact modern structures: the remains of an old mill or a dignified old country house of three stories, with columned porch or circular veranda. KENNYDALE, 2.8 m. (223 alt., 400 pop.), overlooking Lake Washington, is the center of a small farming and poultry-raising district. Offshore to the west is Mercer Island, mantled with woodland, orchards, and gardens. A huddle of black sheds and creosote tanks between the lake and tracks of the Northern Pacific Railway, which parallels the route, is the Republ1c Creosot1ng Plant, 3.7 m. A blue sign beside State 2-A, at 4.2 m., indicates the steep, graveled road to the" home of J. B. Migg, Swiss cheese maker. Born near Ragatz Hot Springs in the Swiss mountains along the upper Rhine, Migg arrived here at the be- ginning of the century and started a small dairy, which grew into a one-man cheese factory. Curded, pressed, and moulded in the Swiss fashion, Migg"s product has earned more than a local reputation. At HAZELWOOD, 4.8 m., is a junction with a graveled side road known locally as the Kenyon Road. At 1.7 m. on Kenyon Road is a junction with a bituminous-surfaced road: Left here 1.3 m. to the S1te of Newcastle, marked by an old tipple, slag heaps, and a few bunkers. A winding ditch along the road indicates the former bed of the Seattle-Walla Walla Railroad, built by Seattle citizens in the seventies. Here was once a booming coal-mining town. Now cattle graze in the yard of the abandoned schoolhouse, and a cluster of shabby little dwellings clings to the side of a bare bill. On the gulch of COAL CREEK, 3.6 m., is the Stra1n Company Str1p M1ne, where a seam of lignite coal 16 feet thick has been uncovered on the hillside. The seam lies a few feet below the surface, embedded in solid rock. The coal is taken out by power shovels and delivered by trucks to the washer at Renton. North of Hazelwood, the main side road winds above Lake Washington. NEWPORT, 6.7 m., on the lake shore, is at the edge of fertile lowlands, where truck farms make an attractive geometric pattern. During the spring, Japanese gardeners, in broad-brimmed straw hats, work in the fields. Roadside stands, laden in season with fruit, berries, vegetables, and jars of honey, are tended by alert youngsters. Bordering the truck farms are the Factor1a Nursery Gar- dens, 7.4 m., where the road swings through the underpass of a bridge reach- ing out over the lake to Mercer Island; here it connects with the Lake Wash- ington Pontoon Bridge to Seattle. At 7.9 m. is a junction with a bituminous-surfaced road: Left here 0.5 m. to BEAUX ARTS VILLAGE, a settlement patterned after the garden villages of England. Sidney Lawrence, known for his paintings of Alaskan landscapes and marine subjects, was one of the organizers of the Beaux Arts Society that founded the village in 1908; it was intended to become a center of arts and crafts but is known today principally as a lakeside residential area. North of the junction the route bears away from the lake shore through truck gardens and nurseries in a lowland between gently sloping hills; the green of alder, willow, fir, and hemlock along the way is broken in early summer by the brilliant yellow of Scotch broom in flower. At 10.1 m. is a junction with a concrete-paved crossroad: Left here 0.2 m. to BELLEVUE (200 alt., 1,114. poP-)i a trading center for the berry farmers and vineyardists in the rich lowlands. The Annual Strawberry Festival, usually
held in Jane at the Community Hall, is attended by from 2,000 to 3,000 people, and hundreds of pounds of shortcake are served to visitors. The American-Pacif1c Whal1ng Company Fleet, one of the fleets of whalers in the north Pacific, is operated from Bellevue. The six stubby steam- whalers, the Tanginak. Mora*. Paterson, Kodiat, Unimai, and Aberdeen, are all oil burners, with speeds of from 10 to 12 knots and crews averaging 12 men each. During the season from June to October a good catch averages about 60 whales per boat. The boats work out of Port Hobron and Akutan in the Aleutian Islands, hunting blue, humpback, sperm, and right whales off the banks in the Gulf of Alaska and the Bering Sea. During the winters the whalers lie idle, their engines silenced and their harpoon guns covered. Twice a year the Bellevue wharfs are crowded with members of families, watching the departure and return of the seamen for the five-month season in the North. A favorite song of these North Pacific and Bering Sea whalemen is: Bad luck to the day, I wandered away And to the man who said I'd make a sailor. He wrote my name out To be tumbled about Aboard an old-fashioned whaler. North of the junction with the Bellevue road. State 2-A returns to the shore of Lake Washington, across which appear the residential districts of Laurel- hurst and Madison Park in Seattle. HOUGHTON, 13.4 m. (26 alt., 260 pop.), a quiet community on the hill- side overlooking the lake, is devoted almost entirely to shipbuilding. The Lake Wash1ngton Sh1pyards and dry dock is a center for construction and repair of both Puget Sound and lake boats, and, during early spring, whaling vessels are prepared for the summer's work. Here the ferryboat Kaiakala was remade with an all-weld superstructure. This plant pioneered all-weld ship con- struction with the Paramount in 1937, and the first of the kind constructed on the Pacific Coast, the Sorthland, was built here in 1929. The busy little town of KIRKLAND, 14.2 ni. (177 alt, 2,084 pop-), is by Moss Bay on the east side of Lake Washington. (Ferry service ssith Seattle from pier just off Main Street). The town, founded in 1886, was named in honor of Peter Kirk, an English millionaire, who visioned a huge steel plant here, because of the iron ore discovered in the Snoqualmie River headwaters 60 miles away. Lots were platted and new buildings were constructed. The industrial bubble burst, however, when mining the ore proved too expensive to be practicable. The town is now the stable center of a prosperous agri- cultural district. North of Kirkland at 15.7 m. is the Jlan1ta Beach Golf Club, which spreads down the slope toward the lakeshore, a popular center for social activities. JUANITA (picnic facilities), 16.3 m. (64 alt, 1000 pop.), lake- side recreation center, is situated on a cove with a fine sandy beach. It was known as Hubbard, when the vicinity was first settled in 1870. North of Juanita, State 2-A leaves the lake and climbs a hill to a benchland, then drops down through a narrow valley to the Sammamish River Bridge, 19.6 where old barns and snake fences make a curious border to the road. At 19.9 as. is a junction with State 2 (see Tour it). West of Renton, US 10 curves north, winding upward to a level where vistas of the White and Duwamish River valleys, spotted with many farms, are seen far below in checkerboard array. SEATTLE. 100.9 m. (16 to 51+ alt., 368,302 pop.), (see Seattle). In Seattle is a junction with US 99 (see Tour 8b).
Davenport—Harrington—Odessa—Wilson Creek—Soap Lake—Quin- cy—Vantage—Gingko Petrified Forest—Ellensburg; 167 m. State 7. Great Northern parallels route between Harrington and Quincy. Bituminous- surfaced roadbed. Hotels at larger towns. State 7 runs in a westerly direction at an altitude of about 2,400 feet through the fertile wheatlands and the sagebrush barrens of the Big Bend Country, so called because of the sweeping curve made by the Columbia River in the central part of the State. Gradually, the highway loses elevation until it crosses the Columbia at 450 feet; then it climbs by a long but fairly easy grade. Throughout the region large, well-cultivated farms alternate with stretches of uninhabited range; at widely-spaced 1ntervals small towns, ganglia of settlement, are strung along the highway. The Big Bend Country, a rugged plateau cut by deep coulees and scarred with patches of scab rock, is treeless except for a few willows, quaking aspens, and cottonwoods, which grow beside the shallow lakes and streams. It is a desolate-looking country in midsummer, when heat waves shimmer over the roads and scorching dry winds blow across the sage lands; and is even more desolate in winter, when storms sweep down from the Canadian plains and drive the snow into smudgy, hard- packed drifts, across the roads. The main highway, a ribbon of gray asphalt bordered by barbed-wire fences, against which winds have piled the skeletons of last year's tumbleweeds, Russian thistles, and Jim Hill mustard, winds toward the horizon. Telephone poles, their green insulators catching the sunlight, race dizzily toward the speeding motorist; by him flashes the endless procession of signboards advertising shaving marvels, chewing tobacco, and patent medicines. Yet, desolate as the region is, it has moments of distinctive beauty. Spring transforms the barrenness for a brief season: wild flowers and grass almost overnight cover the hillsides; serviceberry bushes, rooted precariously in rocky promontories, become swaying towers of white blossoms; lupine and sunflowers make a tapestry of blue and gold. Even the dun-colored sage takes on a livelier hue. In.summer, purple shadows of late afternoon lie on the bare brown hills; seas of ripening grain are rippled by vagrant breezes; and the multi-colored walls of rocky canyons glow in sharp contrast to the green water of the river below. Autumn brings goldenrod by the wayside, flocks of whistling blackbirds in stubble fields dotted with pyramids of yellow straw, and wild geese, flying wedges in the cloudless evening sky, honking their way southward. Even in winter there is magnificence in the seemingly
limitless expanse of snow-covered hills, and in the flaming sunrises that transform the sky with rippling colors. Branching south from DAVENPORT, 0 m. (see Tour la), at a junction with US 10 (see Tour la) and State 22 (see Tour 5), State 7 runs through large wheat farms. Precipitation is light, averaging less than 15 inches annually; nevertheless bountiful crops are the rule, for the moisture, most of which falls between October and April, is retained by the deep, rich soil. Soft wheat is best adapted to the soil and the climate; one variety, bluestem, is so popular that a small settle- ment in this region has been named for it. The larger farms have become almost completely mechanized, but on the smaller farms horses and mules are still used. Gangplows, often with harrows attached, break the stubble fields with speed and effi- ciency. Sometimes the furrows swirl toward the center; more frequently they run from north to south to check the "blowing" of the land, a form of erosion likely to result from the strong prevailing westerly winds. After the ground is broken it is seeded by a drill—tractor- drawn on the more properous farms—or left to summer fallow in order to insure a cleaner, heavier yield of grain the following year. The history of this region since the grasslands were broken by the plow has been written largely in terms of wheat. The early settler came in response to the inducement of cheap land and the promise of bountiful crops. During the early years, in spite of the low prices of wheat, he was able to make a comfortable living. The First World War skyrocketed the price to $2 a bushel and for a brief period brought big profits and consequent dizzy land speculation. The deflation of the post-war period resulted in heavy losses and hard times for this area as well as for other wheat-producing areas throughout the country. The index of prosperity for the wheat farmer is in truth the price per bushel: dollar wheat means that bills will be paid in the fall, a gasoline motor will replace the windmill or the handpump, the barn will be given a coat of paint, or the son be sent to college. HARRINGTON, 14.2 m. (2,167 alt., 545 P°p.), is a shipping point for wheat and cattle and a source of supplies for a considerable area. Like most towns in the Big Bend Country, it dates from the coming of the railroads. The first settler, Adam Luby, homesteaded on Coal Creek in 1879, and in 1883 Mrs. Emily H. Cutter platted the town on a land grant from the Northern Pacific Railroad. The name of the town commemorates a California banker and land speculator, W. P. Harrington, who with Jacob Furth, a banker of Seattle, saw the investment possibilities attending the development of the fertile wheat lands of this region. Harrington is a solidly matter-of-fact town, with long lines of box- cars on the sidings, storage tanks for gasoline, grain elevators, and several flour and feed mills. Its busy Main Street is lined with small, well-constructed buildings, among which is an "opera block" of red brick, ornamented with scroll work and a mansard roof, reminiscent of late Victorian architecture. The population of Harrington has
STRATFORD, 74.5 m. (1,277 alt., 19 pop.), consists of a gasoline station, a power substation, and a handful of nouses on the flats at the base of high rocky bluffs. ADRIAN, 81.1 m. (1,206 alt., 75 pop.), is a junction point of the Great Northern Railroad and the Central Washington, branch of the Northern Pacific. West of Adrian, the road after a slight jog to the south runs directly west for miles through sagebrush hills. Today this region is a semi- arid waste, but when the water from the Coulee project is available, the rich volcanic soil is expected to yield abundant crops. At 85.9 m. is a junction with a graded road. Left here 6 m. to the Crab Creek Fish Hatchery, a privately owned fish farm just north of Moses Lake. During the glacial period, Crab Creek was partly dammed at its narrow outlet, with the result that a lake covering 250 square miles was formed in flood time. Gravel and silt were deposited to a depth of 500 feet. SOAP LAKE, 86.9 m. (1,189 alt., 622 pop.), is a health resort on the shores of Soap Lake, southernmost in a string of lakes in the Grand Coulee. The lake clearly shows its volcanic origin in the cliffs of black basalt along the shore and in the accumulated minerals and salts. This mineralization gives the water its therapeutic value, and also accounts for the suds-like froth that is frequently piled up along the shores by the wind. The town is dependent on the lake for existence. Hotels and sanitariums along both the main and the side streets advertise hot and cold salt-water baths, blanket treatments, and mud baths. Facilities for outdoor bathing are available along the lake shore. During the summer months most of the inhabitants, residents and visitors alike, lounge about in scanty attire, and are so bronzed by the intense sunlight that they resemble the aborigines, who years ago recognized the health- giving properties of the water, which they called the Witch Doctor. West of Soap Lake the highway climbs gradually. EPHRATA, 94.4 m. (1,265 alt., 516 pop.), at the extreme south- ern end of the Grand Coulee, is in the heart of the fruit belt, where irrigation is carried on by means of wells, water being obtainable at a depth of 100 feet. The excellent crops produced near by demonstrate the fertility of this soil of decomposed lava rock, and indicate the reason for the high hopes raised by the building of the Grand Coulee Dam and irrigation districts. The parallel rows of tall poplars bordering the main street shade the otherwise sun-baked highway. The town is today the center of increased activity because of the work on Grand Coulee Dam, and the brick courthouse, with its somewhat incongruous Corin- thian pillars, is a focal point of that activity. The settlement dates back to 1882, when the Egbert brothers found here a splendid range and ample spring water for raising horses. Ten years later the present name was adopted, presumably because the method of irrigation from wells recalled the Palestine village mentioned in the Old Testament. The town was platted in 1901 by J. Cyrus. The last great round-up of wild horses in the State occurred in this
part of the Big Bend Country on April 23, 1906, when about 300 cowboys rounded up and drove approximately 2,400 head of horses south to the mouth of Crab Creek. Here they were corralled and shipped to the Bad Lands of the Dakotas. It is told that a few of these deported horses, under the leadership of a white-maned stallion, escaped and came back to the isolated coulees and rocky valleys. Left from Ephrata 11.2 m. on a bituminous-surfaced road to MOSES LAKE. This shallow lake, named for Chief Moses (see Tour ja), warrior, diplomat, and friend of the early settlers, is 16 miles long and a quarter of a mile wide, with a maximum depth of 30 feet. Its shape is that of a pipe with a long curved stem. Artesian wells as well as the lake furnish water for orchards and truck farms. MOSES LAKE (NEPPEL), 20 m. (1,055 alt., 622 pop.), on the eastern shore is an agricultural trading center. West of Ephrata, State 7 runs in a southerly direction for a number of miles, and then swings west, continuing through sagebrush flats. Winchester, 105.6 m. (1,277 alt., 39 P°p.), 's a farming hamlet on the Great Northern Railway. QUINCY, 112.4 m. (1,302 alt., 318 pop.), has a nucleus of gaso- line stations, stores, and lunchrooms amid small frame houses. The summer sun beats down on the shadeless dusty streets, and choking winds, pungent with the odor of sage, sweep up from the canyon and coulee. Periodically, the monotony is broken by the arrival of loaded busses, which stop only long enough to allow passengers to gulp a cup of coffee, or to stretch their cramped limbs before beginning the next lap of their journeys. This part of the Columbia Basin is both a land of promise and a graveyard of hope. Despite the lightness of the precipitation, which is seldom more than six inches annually, there are productive farms and flourishing stock ranches on the deep soil, rich in nitrates, lime, and magnesium. Scattered along the highway are ghost farms with their deserted houses, weather-beaten barns, and uprooted skeletons of fruit trees, a tragic residue left by settlers, who, at the turn of the century, hopefully broke the land and waited for the promised irrigation to materialize. The dream which they dreamed too soon is now about to become a reality. Quincy is at a junction with State 10 (see Tour 1a). State 7 bears (L) directly south toward the rugged hummocks of Frenchman Hills, scene of recent unsuccessful attempts to strike oil, across a treeless rugged plateau. Westward lies the long line of the Wenatchee Range, blue in the hazcThW1ighway veers to the southwest, descends a curving grade, and follows the course of the Columbia southward for about ten miles. At 135.2 m. is a junction with an improved road. Left here along the river. The route affords sweeping views of the Columbia. For miles the river has cut deep into the plateau, and the rocky walls glow in the sunlight or fade into opalescent shadows as twilight falls. At the foot of the canyon the green waters swirl in slow eddies or flow, smooth and turgid, in the deeper parts of the channel. BEVERLY, 10 m., (564 alt., 40 pop.), has one short street where in summer the dust, swept in by small-scale simoons, is ankle deep. Here the Columbia River has chiseled a passage through the
Saddle Mountains (2,455 whose bold bluffs guard both shores. In the heyday of river navigation, this was a busy shipping point; today it is a dis- tribution point for dairy and poultry ranches. West of the junction, at 135.6 m., State 7 crosses the Columbia on the high steel Vantage Bridge. » VANTAGE, 136.2 m. (450 alt., 6 pop.), is a gasoline station, a small store, and a lone frame house. State 7 twists up the right bank of a rocky coulee, at the bottom of which patches of vivid green indi- cate the bushes growing along the trickle of water, and furnish the only contrast to the dun-colored sage and red-brown rocks. The GINKGO PETRIFIED FOREST STATE PARK (R), 140.1 m., is an area of fossils, discovered in 1932 by George F. Beck, a geologist of Ellensburg. The fossils of the ginkgo tree were a find of much interest, since they provided the last examples of the fossilized wood of this prehistoric gymnospermous tree. Descendants of the ginkgo still flourish in the Orient, where they are known as temple trees and sometimes reach a height of 80 to 100 feet. Since the first discoveries, fossils of many other kinds of trees have been found here over a wide area; they include elms, oaks 6 feet in diameter, maples, walnuts, and sequoias 10 feet in diameter, a spruce 100 feet in length, and a maple of 50 feet. About 75 prehistoric species have been found; further ex- plorations will probably add several more to the list. Though this forest perished millions of years ago, descendants of about 80 per cent of the 75 species are still alive. Within the boundaries of the park are about 7,000 acres, but the Ginkgo Forest itself actually covers about 3,000 square miles, roughly centered around the park. Although the youngest of all the known petrified forests of the Miocene Age of the Tertiary Period, it is, nevertheless, at least 10,000,000 years old. Most pertified forests are found buried in mud or volcanic ash, but this one is embedded in basalt. To explain the fact that the trees were not charred and consumed, a theory is advanced that at the time of the flow they were probably submerged in the waters of some prehistoric lake. The petrified trees are embedded in from 6 to 15 layers of soil and rock; some lie sepa- rately, some in close rows. Occasional specimens lie on the surface, in whole or half sections; others occur in peat bogs, amid tangles of roots, stumps, empty tree molds, and now and then an erect trunk. It is esti- mated that there are between 5,000 and 10,000 logs in the bed. The fossils are of an opal formation and in many instances are clearly and beautifully grained and reflect the color of the original wood. This opal formation represents a distinct point of difference from the agate formation of fossils of Arizona and the calcite formations of Scotland. Fossilized remains of prehistoric mammals have also been discovered in clay pits of the vicinity, among them camels of various sizes and kinds, mastodon, deer, antelope, rhinoceros, three-toed horses, cougar- sized cats, wild pigs, and rodents of various types. The Adm1n1strat1on Bu1ld1ng (R) contains polished specimens, microphotographs of the grains of petrified wood, samples of crystal,
and shells and pieces of rock specimens from many parts of the world. Trails lead (R) from the building to spots where fossils of fir and cedar have been unearthed. (Chipping and appropriation of specimens, and removal of shrubs, flowers, or rocks prohibited). West of the Petrified Forest, State 7 winds up the side of the coulee, and then traverses miles of practically level sagebrush lands, utterly devoid of habitation, to reach the flat Kittitas Valley, with its network of irrigation canals, prosperous-looking farms, neat houses and capacious barns, fields of hay and alfalfa, herds of sleek cattle, and flocks of sheep. Long rows of Lombardy poplars break the force of the prevailing winds. ELLENSBURG, 167 m. (1,518 alt, 5,944 pop.), (see Tour 7b) is at a junction with US 97 (see Tour yb). Tour IB (Junction US 10)—Almira—Grand Coulee—Coulee Dam—Mason City, 23.5 m. State 2. Washington Motor Coach System operates direct service to Coulee Dam in summer months; passengers transferred at Almira and Coulee Junction in winter. Government-built railroad to Grand Coulee Dam, operated by contracting companies; does not carry passengers. Cabin, trailer, and hotel accommodations at Grand Coulee. Hotels at Mason City. Vista shelters at damsite. Hard-surfaced road, occasional rough stretches. The route north to Coulee Dam from its junction with US 10 at Almira (see Tour 1d) is upgrade through dry wheatlands and occa- sional patches of scab rock and sagebrush. Rising slowly, with curves and dips, the highway reaches the Columbia River, then descends dizzily by a winding three-mile grade into the canyon carved by the river to Coulee Dam, now in process of construction. When completed, Coulee Dam will be one of the wonders of the world. It will bring nearer to realization a plan to irrigate a semi- desert area almost as large as the State of Connecticut; and, as a secondary function, it will generate electric current to the extent of 2,520,000 horsepower. The dam is designed to halt the full flood of the mighty Columbia, which drains most of the northwest, back it up 1nto a vast artificial lake 151 miles long, and regulate its flow for 450 miles to the Pacific. Over the giant spillway will plunge a roaring
cataract, three times the height of Niagara Falls and several times its volume. By means of the mightiest pumping system yet devised, enough water will be elevated in a vertical lift of 280 feet to fill and keep filled a great natural chasm, Grand Coulee, which will become a bal- ancing reservoir some 30 miles long and several miles wide. From this second man-made lake, canals as long as 100 miles will carry water to the rich volcanic soil of three counties. This prodigious project, begun in 1933 and expected to be finished in 1940, employed at its peak-figure in 1937 about 6,500 persons. It is estimated that between four and five hundred thousand visitors have come annually to watch the construction of the dam; 7,ooo, it is said, visited the spectacle in a single day. North of ALMIRA, 0 m., is an area adapted to dry wheat farm- ing and sheep and cattle grazing. This terrain will not benefit directly from the Coulee Dam, since the level to be irrigated begins 30 miles to the southwest. Sufficient water is supplied here by deep wells, manned by tall windmills which are turned by the prevaling westerly winds. The dry climate and sandy soil are most favorable to the raising of hard Bluestem wheat—a crop which brings a high price in western markets. At 12 m. is a junction with an alternate road, route from Wilbur (see Tour 1a) to Coulee Dam. The route twists through areas of sagebrush and wheatlands, crossing the Grant County line at 14 m. Carcasses of ground squirrels and gophers are often strewn along the roadside during spring and early summer; a major enemy of crops, they multiply rapidly in early spring, making their first appearance in late February. Gophers feed on the young shoots of grain and later attack the budding stalks, sometimes causing considerable destruction in the grainfields. Farmers try to exterminate them through poison and shooting, and they are hunted for sport by men and boys from the city; yet, so far, no way has been found to get rid of them. In July, their winter food supply safely stored away, they return to their bur- rows, while farmers plan the next season's campaign against them. A tale, often repeated among farmers, shows the gopher continuing his war against the farmer even during the winter: "An old man from west of Davenport . . . planted a lot of fruit trees. When winter came he was surprised to note that the snow in his orchard kept getting deeper all the time, while it remained about the same everywhere else. Finally, it got up to the limbs of the trees. When a thaw set in, the mystery was solved. The gophers, working underground, had first devoured the roots of the trees and then eaten the trunks, little by little, the tops settling down as fast as the trunks were cut off below." At 17 m. (drive slowly) the road breaks suddenly over a rise, giv- ing a breath-taking view of the State's greatest power and reclama- tion project. Somewhat comparable to Grand Canyon, with the purple and rust of its towering walls, the Columbia canyon is here made especially awesome by grotesque lava formations and rounded pinnacles in the rock strata cut through by the river centuries ago. A descent
of three miles by a series of dizzying switchbacks to the canyon floor 400 feet below is so rapid that many experience a sensation in the ear drums. State 2 forms a junction with State 2-F, a hard-surfaced road, at the entrance to Grand Coulee. West from the junction, State 2-F, the alternate route used by visitors from the western part of the State to Coulee Dam, swings southward into the Grand Coulee, a dry canyon 50 miles long, from 4.00 to 1,200 feet deep, and from 2 to 6 miles wide. Part of this area is to be flooded by water pumped from the backwater of Coulee Dam and retained in storage by two dams in the upper coulee. This will be the balancing reservoir of the vast irrigation project. Bordering the highway are several mushroom communities, with rude frame buildings, cabin camps, and even an occasional "card-board" shack. At 0.7 m. is DELANO (est. pop. 506), at 1.8 m. ELECTRIC CITY (est. pop. 1,500), and at 2.6 m. OSBORNE (est. pop. 900). At 8 m. is a junction with a dirt side road. R. here 0.5 m. to STEAMBOAT ROCK. Visible along the route before the junction is reached, this mesa was an island in the prehistoric Columbia River which carved the coulee. The ancient stream, swollen by glacial floods, is believed to have rushed through the valley at tremendous speed. Steamboat Rock once lay between twin falls two miles wide and with an 800-foot drop, 633 feet greater than that of Niagara. Today, the rock, its upper stratified lava resembling the decks of an ocean liner, gives the effect of a derelict adrift on a sea of sage. On a low granite outcropping, near the rock's northern end, are Indian Rock Pa1nt1ngs of indeterminate age. To the east (L) is the mouth of deep, shadowy NORTHRUP CANYON, a rocky passage cut by a tributary glacial drainage. In the wet season numerous trickles of muddy water, falling hundreds of feet, cascade down the canyon walls. The highway continues south, skirting dark purple walls and passing through arid sagebrush areas to a junction with US 10 at COULEE JUNCTION 27.8 m. (see Tour 1a). GRAND COULEE, 19.8 m. (1,584 alt, 3,659 pop.), is entered by way of a steep grade. Still new and raw, this lusty little city clings to the rocky slopes above the Columbia River, a hot, dusty, and often windswept "boom" metropolis cherishing hopes of permanence. In Grand Coulee three former towns are merged: Coulee Heights, Coulee Center, and Grand Coulee. The short, steep business blocks are faced with stores, cafes, hotels, beer taverns, and motion picture theaters. One of the latter offers occasional stage shows. The News and the Times, established as weeklies in November 1933, were combined as the News-Times in 1937. Grade and high school buildings have been erected, but a library is still lacking. The C1ty Hall (L) has the appearance of a low, white shed. Somewhat more imposing, on a hill above, is a white-painted, black-trimmed Labor Temple. Since 1933, many sensational stories have been told of Grand Coulee's frontier abandon and rough pleasures, but little of these are apparent to the visitor. When the laboring hordes first poured in, life in the burgeoning town was undoubtedly vigorous and untram- meled. Today, however, leading citizens deny that wide-open gambling exists or that alcohol is sold outside the state liquor store. It is re- called that Grand Coulee has had no major robberies and but one
killing in a five-year period. Grand Coulee offers three hotels, two trailer camps, and some cabin camp accommodations. At 21.5 m. is the Un1ted States Government West Conserva- t1on Po1nt, supervised by the United States Bureau of Reclamation. The roofed vista house (R) seats 275 persons, and affords a splendid view of the slowly rising dam. Additional benches are scattered through the commodious parking area. Modern rest rooms equipped with hot and cold water and a first aid room are provided in the vista house, open the year round, and a public address system carries short lectures on the purposes and scope of the dam. A small vista house, open only in the summer months, is across the river on the east side. In one of the lower rooms of the west side vista house is displayed a model of the dam, constructed on a scale of 1 to 600, showing three stages of the project: First, the Grand Coulee before the work started; next, the site after the completion of the excavation; and finally, the completed dam, with powerhouses and pump station. The dam will be 550 feet in height, but seems lower because of its length of 4,300 feet and a thickness at its base of 500 feet, which tapers to a crest of 30 feet. Its sides are thrust deep into scarred rock and its base is anchored in bedrock far below the river's bottom. It will be capable of holding a flood of 1,000,000 cubic feet of water per second, although the greatest recorded flow of the Columbia is less than half that volume. The river pours through channels arranged in the center of the dam; on the down side are twin powerhouses. One may say that the site of Grand Coulee Dam was determined centuries ago. Lava, hissing and boiling, fought with angry waters, cooled, and bore plant life; then lava came again, repeating the same cycle in successive periods, until seven flows had been recorded in the dark porous rock, streaked with reds and greens, of the high coulee walls. Centuries passed, and then a great ice sheet, which scientists say was 4,000 feet thick, descended from the North. Tearing the earth's surface, pushing huge quantities of boulders and gravel before it, the ice sheet moved southward, melting, and forming a mighty flood. The flood boiled over the river's channels, grinding out great gorges and forming new channels. Temporarily, at the present site of Coulee Dam, the river was diverted from its regular course and roared south across the gently sloping tableland, forming what is now known as the Grand Coulee, a chasm over 50 miles long, 800 feet deep and from 2 to 5 miles wide. It then plunged over the great cataract now known as DRY FALLS (see Tour la) and rejoined the old channel further to the south. When the great ice mass finally melted away, the river resumed its age-old course, leaving the Grand Coulee high and dry. The dam is being built where the river was once diverted, and by great pumping machines is causing the water to flow down the ancient waterway, this time to irrigate 1,300,000 acres which have long been desert land. There were other important factors that determined the site. The junction of the river with the coulee has a natural dam foundation of
hard, white granite, over 800 feet deep. Nature also left a measure- less quantity of gravel on the bank of the valley. Most important of all was the fact that here, bordering a river whose discharge is more regular throughout the entire year than any other river of the land, and whose runoff is five times as great as that of the Colorado River at Boulder Dam, is a vast stretch of arid land which needs to be irrigated—an authority on reclamation called it "one of the most fertile bodies of irrigable land in this or any other country." Despite the natural advantages of the site, construction involved many problems never before confronted by engineers. It was nec- essary to build a massive structure larger than any ever built before, which would withstand the pressure of water 355 feet deep across a width of 4,300 feet. The Columbia, flowing as fast as 14 miles an hour, had to be diverted from its ancient channel and made to flow through a man-made passage while the foundations were being laid. By means of a tremendous belt conveyor 15,000,000 cubic yards of earth and rock were transported more than a mile to a level 600 feet higher and then dumped into Rattlesnake canyon. A million tons of wet earth had to be frozen by means of great icing tubes to prevent the mass slipping into the excavation area. Work on Coulee Dam site began with core-drilling in the late summer of 1933. Prior to that time numerous engineers, among them General G. W. Goethals, of Panama Canal fame, had gone into the wild and almost uninhabited Upper Coulee country to inspect the undertaking. The starting of work on the dam project was hastened by the depression, when funds were allotted for public works to re- lieve unemployment. The Mason-Walsh-Atkinson-Kerr Company, hold- ing the first contract, began work in October 1934; the first unit was finished early in 1938. The foundation, or so-called "lower dam," was then in place. The MWAK company joined with other bidders in a new contract to continue construction, forming the Consolidated Build- ers, Incorporated. The most spectacular features of construction are now over. On May 21, 1939, a bucket of concrete was poured which marked the completion of 60 per cent of the 10,500,000 cubic yards necessary to complete the dam proper. The dam had already surpassed in size any other man-made construction on the face of the earth. On March 22, 1941, the first generators began to produce Grand Coulee power. The problem of lifting the water from the river to the bed of the coulee was complicated by the fact that the new level of the lake behind the dam will be 280 feet below the point necessary to deliver water on the floor of the Grand Coulee. Twelve mighty units of the pumping plant, each driven by a 65,000 horsepower motor and capable of handling 1,600 feet of water per second, will force water upward through pipes 13 feet in diameter and deliver it into the coulee at a point 1.7 miles distance. Engineers state that probably at no other place would such a pumping system be practicable. The secondary reservoir into which the water will be pumped will
be 30 miles long, in the northern half of the Grand Coulee. Through construction of earth-filled dikes across it, one near the dam site and the other near Coulee City 27 miles away, a reservoir will be made. Man-made canals will conduct the water from the south dam into the irrigation area by gravity flow; by use of the fall of the water in the main canals, supplemental and seasonal power can be generated to lift part of the water an average height of 70 feet, making additional acreage available for irrigation. Although the Columbia Basin project is primarily an irrigation development, it will also provide the world's greatest power plant with a capacity more than one-fourth greater than that of Boulder Dam. Power is to be distributed over a wide area, and it is predicted that the proceeds from its sale will not only pay for the project, but will eventually bring the Nation a profit on its investment. This investment is, like everything connected with the undertaking, huge: an estimated $174,000,000 in the dam and power plant and approx- imately $394,000,000 by the time (25 to 50 years) all contemplated reclamation and conservation features are added. The dam is intended to make possible new homes in the farmlands for from 25,000 to 40,000 families, and for an urban population of equal size; and to make available to the people of two States and perhaps more an abundant supply of cheap power. One of the inter- esting by-products will be a lake 151 miles long, extending from the dam site to the Canadian Border, which may be developed for recre- ational and industrial purposes. This lake will cover an area of 82,000 acres at an elevation of 1,290 feet, and the backwater will eliminate many falls and rapids which formerly existed there. Many towns and villages along the Columbia valley will have to be removed before the backwater reaches its final height. Steamers, pleasure yachts, and speed boats will ply on it. The Federal Government has established strict supervision over the future irrigated section. The Anti-Specula- tion Act, passed by Congress on May 27, 1937, provides heavy pen- alties if the lands are sold at speculative prices to prospective irrigation settlers. No water may be obtained from the canals of the project until these penalties are paid. Farmers who locate in the reclaimed area will buy at prices ranging from $5 to $15 per acre land estimated to be two and one-half times as productive as the average soil. They will be required to pay, over a period of 40 years, without interest, the sum of $88 per acre for water rights, plus $3.19 per acre maintenance charges. Their houses will be lighted and heated by cheap electricity, which they may use to do much of their work. Leaving the observation point, the route winds down to enter COULEE CITY (1,085 alt., 744 pop.), at 22.5 m. Usually termed "Engineers' Town," Coulee City presents a pleasing picture of neatly arranged, inviting residences with lawns and flower beds laid out on a gentle slope to the left of the highway. The gleaming white Adm1n-
1strat1on Bu1ld1ng (L), headquarters for Government construction engineers, is in the background. The highway bears sharply right beyond Coulee Dam to span a suspension bridge across the Columbia. When the dam is completed, another highway will cross its top, 30 feet wide, giving an awe- inspiring view of the plunging waters, roaring through man-made channels. MASON CITY, 23.5 m. (1,510 alt., 2,500 pop.), is called an "all-electric" community. The result of a planned housing program by the MWAK Company, it was named after the senior partner of the firm. Buildings were shipped piecemeal to the site and assembled; all are painted white. The town has schools, stores, several tennis courts, a motion picture theater and a well-equipped hospital. Tour 1 C Junction with US 10—Leavenworth—Scenic—Snohomish—Everett; 113.3 m., State 15. Bituminous-surfaced roadbed except for graveled stretch between Gold Bar and Chiwaukum: route closed between Scenic and Chiwaukum from November to May. Fire permits required on trail trips in Snoqualmie and Wenatchee national forests. Great Northern roughly parallels route. Hotels in larger towns; resorts and trailer accommodations; free Forest Service camps on trails. One of the four routes across the Cascade Mountains, State 15, known as the Stevens Pass Road, traverses rugged, sparsely settled territory almost from its eastern point of departure near Leavenworth. Ascending the watershed of the Wenatchee River toward the summits of the Cascade Range, the highway passes through portions of the Wenatchee and Snoqualmie national forests, where recreational areas may be reached by numerous side roads and trails. Downward from the summit, the route lies between mile-high peaks along the valley of the Tye, Skykomish, and Snohomish Rivers, streams that are never placid and, during floodtime, are torrential. West of the mountains are dairy lands, with large herds of grazing milch cows and groups of trim farmhouses, large red barns, and silos. Near the highway, the Snohomish flows sluggishly towards Puget Sound. The soil and the humid atmosphere of the valley favor intensive farming and dairy-
ing; often three crops of garden produce are raised in one year on this alluvial bottom land. From its junction with US 10-97, 0 m-, State 15 passes numerous fruit-packing plants, warehouses, and piles of box shooks, necessary adjuncts of the immense apple orchards in the Wenatchee Valley. At 1.3 m. is a junction with a side road. Right here across a bridge over the Wenatchee River to PESHASTIN (Ind. broad-bottom canyon), 0.3 m. (1,047 alt-, '1058 pop.). Fruit warehouses and a box factory dominate the business section of the small town. Beginning in 1892 with the arrival of the Great Northern Railroad, Peshastin developed with the introduction of irrigation. Pine forests in the adjacent country supply box- making mills. West of the junction, State 15 looks down on the orchards—500,000 mature trees in a two-mile radius. In the cool springtime the whole countryside is faintly pink with the blossoms. Hundreds of migratory fruit pickers swarm through the region seeking work during the harvest season. Near LEAVENWORTH, 5.3 m. (1,166 alt., 1,608 pop.), where Tumwater Canyon opens from Tumwater Mountain and Icicle Ridge into river flats, the broadening valley is flanked by sand hills, sparsely overgrown with pine. Leavenworth originated as a Great Northern construction camp, and when an enterprising proprietor moved to track- side from the Icicle settlement miles away, the camp secured a store and a post office. In 1892 the Leavenworth Townsite Company platted and named the town. The railroad made it a division point in 1898, where shops and roundhouses were maintained until completion of the new Cascade Tunnel in 1929. Fruit-packing and storage plants serve the orchardists of the vicinity. More than 170 carloads of apples were shipped in 1936. Irrigation was practiced even by early agriculturalists in this region. Wooden casks mounted on wagons were used to haul water from the river, truckers charging 25c for a tankfull. Now, extensive irrigation systems developed by the Bureau of Reclamation draw water from the Icicle, Chumstick, and Chiwawa Rivers to supply a wide area of valley orchards. At the eastern end of the town is the Leavenworth Ranger Stat1on, where fire permits are issued and information is available concerning trails, camps, and fishing conditions. Leavenworth is the entrance to the LEAVENWORTH RECREATION AREA, nearly 300,000 acres of mountainous country extending up to the headwaters of Peshastin, Ingalls, Icicle, and Chiwaukum creeks. Two miles (R) from the ranger station is the WINTER SPORTS AREA (ski huts). ROOSEVELT HILL is ideal for first-class jumpers; the record of 270 feet was made in February 1941. The Leavenworth Winter Sports Club conducts a ski tournament annually in February. At 5.8 m. is the junction with a dirt road. Left from the junction, traversing orchard lands, 5 m. to Brown's Resort, a dude ranch. Through a V-shaped gorge the road enters a cradle-like basin
to E1ghtm1le Camp, 3 m., adjacent to the well-stocked fishing lakes and to streams at the base of Mount Stuart. At 10 m. is Bb1dge Creek Camp. Near Chatter Creek Guard Stat1on, 17 m., the road ends at a junction with two trails: R. here 4 m. along the Icicle River to FRENCH CREEK and FROSTY CREEK 5.5 m.\ at 6.1 m., is a junction with a side trail: R. here 4 m. to the three DOELLE LAKES. The main trail passes LELAND CREEK 2 m., and ends amid CHAIN OF LAKES, 12.7 m. Left on the other trail from Chatter Creek Guard Station along Jack Creek; at Meadow Creek, 5 m., is a side trail: L. here 4 m. are the old Van Epps M1nes beside VAN EPPS CREEK. Retrace to main trail from junction on Meadow Creek; at 5.5 m. is PADDY GO EASY PASS (5,500 alt.), and at 9.5 m. the trail ends at a junction with the CLE ELUM RIVER ROAD (see Tour 1b). State 15 passes POWER CREEK, 7.8 m., and the hydroelectric plant that supplies the Great Northern's electrified division across the Cascade Range. DRURY, 10.9 m., is a tourist camp with a view of DRURY FALLS. The highway crosses the boundary of the TUM- WATER RECREATION AREA, 15.6 m. At 15.8 m. is a junction with a side road. Left on this road 0.3 m. is the State Fish hatchery, which stocks the alpine lakes and streams, principally with trout. The Ch1waukum Forest Camp (tourist facilities), lying between Chiwaukum Creek and the Wenatchee River, is reached at 15.9 m. From here the highway descends into TUMWATER CANYON, a cliff-shadowed chasm carved into the mountains by the rushing Wenat- chee River, swollen by numerous creeks and cascades that join it in its descent from the summit. Spring brings to bloom great clusters of rock lily in crevices and sets dozens of small waterfalls to polishing the rock walls of the canyon. Streamlets from the higher snowfields survive into midsummer. West of WINTON, 19.1 m. (2,085 alt., 26 pop.), a lumber camp and post office with a few stores and service stations, State 15 ascends the eastern slope in a series of curves. At 20.4 m. is the junction with State 15-C, an improved road. Right on this road through hilly country of sparse vegetation and small trees to LAKE WENATCHEE, 4.7 m. (1,870 alt.), a body of deep-blue water, five miles long, filling an indentation in the slope of the Cascades. At the eastern end of Lake Wenatchee is a junction with State 15-D, a dirt road: L. here 4 m. to Lake Wenatchee Ranger Stat1on and Telma, 9 m., a resort and campground at the other end of the lake. At 11 m. is a junction with a forest road: L. here to Soda Spr1ngs, 9 m., a forest camp, popular since 1895 because of the supposed medicinal value of the waters. Here the forest road ends. From tfie junction at 11 m., the main dirt road leads to WHITE RIVER FALLS, 21 m.; at 25 m. is INDIAN CREEK and the end of the road, from which trails lead into the Glacier Peak Recreation Area. At 6.6 m. on State 15-C is FISH LAKE, where the fishermen for perch and bass are well rewarded. The route leaves State 15-C at 11 m. , and bears left to ascend the Chiwawa River basin. At 32.9 m. is a tiny settlement. Here the road ends at a junction with a trail. Straight ahead 12 m. on the trail is BUCK CREEK PASS (5,796 alt.) at the head of Buck Creek, within the Glacier Peak Recreation Area. Connecting trails lead to many points in the area. DARDANELLES, 24.9 m. on State 15 (2,162 alt., 28 pop.), is a
railroad siding at the confluence of Coulter and Butcher creeks with Macon Creek. At MERRITT, 26.9 m. (2,186 alt., 40 pop.), a rail- road way point, is a Forest Service camp. Adjacent to F1re Rock Auto Camp (privately operated), 28.2 m., is a small silica mine. The deposit is 97 per cent pure mineral; a small fountain at the camp, playing into a silica basin, glows with strange light after nightfall. BERNE, 33 m. (2,918 alt., 55 pop.), a small huddle of frame dwellings, is at the east portal of the Cascade Tunnel, adjacent to the railroad station. The tunnel, approximately eight miles long and one of the largest projects of its kind in the country, was completed in 1929. Only four or five Alpine railway tunnels are longer than the new Cascade. During construction in 1897 of the original Cascade bore, now abandoned, a camp town grew up in the vicinity of Berne and was called Tunnel City, or simply Tunnel. Its existence was one prolonged spree, according to tales of the times; the dance halls and kindred institutions had no doors—and needed none, since they never closed. Early in 1900 a correspondent of the New York World described Tunnel City as "the wickedest place in the world." A fire swept Tunnel City out of existence in June 1900, and forest growth has obliterated every remaining trace. Rising toward the summit, State 15 follows the narrow valley of Nason Creek, flanked by extremely mountainous country, abounding in large and small game and many varieties of upland trees and wildflowers. STEVENS PASS (4,061 alt.), named for John F. Stevens, the Great Northern Railroad construction engineer, is reached at 41.9 m. The summit marks the boundary between the Snoqualmie and Wenatchee national forests. Here are forest camp and guard station. The Forest Service maintains a warming shed at the base of a 1,500-foot ski course. Each winter, the western section of State 15 is cleared of snow to Scenic (see below); visitors from eastern Wash- ington, seeking hotel accommodations at Scenic, can cover intervening snowdrifts on skis. In the summer, good fishing is found at 20 small lakes within a 10-mile radius, and huckleberries are plentiful in August and September. At the summit is a junction with the Cascade Crest, or Skyline Trail. 1. Right from Stevens Pass on the trail to STARLIGHT LAKE, 1.5 m., and LIGHTENBERG MOUNTAIN, 6 m. (5,920 alt.). 2. Left from Stevens Pass on the trail to LAKE JOSEPHINE, 5 m., and MILL CREEK RUN, 12.5 m. The S1te of Well1ngton, 46.6 m., a station that existed at the western portal of the abandoned Cascade Tunnel, is marked by a hill- side snowshed (R). A passenger train and a fast mail stalled here in deep snow on February 22, 1910. Small snowslides started crashing down upon the track at the end of the week, and about two o'clock in the morning, March 2, a great avalanche swept down from 2,000 feet above, brushing both trains and station to the bottom of a 400-foot canyon. One hundred eighteen persons were killed, and only a few
escaped from the most serious railroad wreck in the State's history. Residence in the station itself was never attempted again. West of Wellington, State 15 strikes downward on a steeply wind- ing route (cautious driving is imperative) and reaches the course of the Tye River. SCENIC, 48.8 m. (2,106 alt., 50 pop.), is the highest town on the west Cascade slope and, though accessible only by rail- road during the months of heavy snowfall, attracts many winter sport enthusiasts. Following the completion of the railroad, a health resort called the Scenic Hot Springs was opened here by J. V. Prosser. The well-advertised curative power of the hot mineral waters made the spa popular for many years, although rumor whispered that the water was artificially heated and piped to the resort through conduits in- sulated with cedar logs. A Forest Service camp (complete facilities) stands west of the resort site. State 15 continues through upland country, crossing the Snoqualmie National Forest boundary line at 52.8 m. Near a junction with a dirt road, 56 m., is a tourist camp (camping and cabin accommodations). Left from the junction to the end of the road 4 m., where parking space has been cleared. From here a trail leads past an abandoned Cabin at the edge of the forest and, leaving the railroad at 0.5 m., enters a timbered gorge. After crossing the WEST FORK of Foss River at 2 m., the trail continues to TROUT LAKE, 2.6 m. (2,500 alt.), which is stocked with Montana black-spotted trout. Clambering up the canyon wall (R) of the lake, the trail follows a small creek and emerges from a clump of Douglas fir on a higher level at 3 m. Here is a view of BALD PEAK (6,200 alt.) and the FALLS that descend 600 feet from the outlet of Copper Lake. At 4.1 m. is a shallow ford across an unnamed creek. A distinct change in the flora becomes marked at this point. Douglas fir, hemlock, and cedar give way to Alpine fir and mountain hemlock, and the luxuriant growth of forest ferns and mosses is replaced by short grass and scattered patches of avalanche lilies. At 4.5 m. is COPPER LAKE (4,300 alt.), a small snow-fed pond, where a lean-to shelter is provided. Snow clings to the barren slopes above the lake throughout the summer. (Nights are chilly and a heavy blanket roll is a neces- sity). At 5.2 m. the trail reaches a high benchland, revealing a widespread view of LITTLE HEART LAKE (4,700 alt.) and (L) OTTER LAKE (4,500 alt.); between them the outlet of LAKE ANGELINE (5,100 alt.) clothes the rocky bluff in spray, as it drops 1,000 feet toward the tranquil DELTA LAKE (3,800 alt.). Above the group of lakes rise the ragged peaks at the summit of the Cascade Range; MOUNT HINMAN (7,454 alt.) appears to the southeast. At BIG BEAR LAKE (5,200 alt.) is a Forest Service shelter camp (rowboats). The lake shore is scalloped by glacial troughs. Hikers are advised not to leave the Forest Service trails, for ridges and dense forests make it impossible to reach one lake from another except by roundabout trails. In the event of be- coming lost, small streams should be followed down to the main rivers. After completing this trip, hikers must report to the Skykomish Ranger Station, and fishermen should report catches. SKYKOMISH, at 59 m. on State 15 (930 alt, 479 pop.), a rail- road division point and sawmill town, lies on the bank of the South Fork of the Skykomish River, here known as the Tye. Settled during the building of the Great Northern, the town remains dependent on the railroad, which maintains a roundhouse for "helper" engines and a substation for the electrified section eastward to Appleyard. The
uiiiDiuiiuiiiiiouiiiuiiiiioiiiiiiiiiuiaiiiiiiiiiiiiaiiiiiiiiiii Industry, Commerce and Transportation
LUMBER MILLS, EVERETT
OLUMBIA RIVER LAKE UNION - PUGET SOUND SHIP CANAL - --Pete (talk) 21:53, 8 July 2022 (UTC)
AIRVIEW, SEATTLE WATERFRONT (MOUNT BAKER IN BACKGROUND) PORT OF LONGVIEW Photograph courtesy of Longview Chamber of Commerce
Lake Chelan, from which comes half the gold and half the copper mined in the State.
--- Photograph courtesy of Longview Chamber of Commerce INTERSTATE BRIDGE, LONGVIEW LAKE WASHINGTON FLOATING BRIDGE, SEATTLE
"AMPERE"—BONNEVILLE DAM TRANSFORMER POWER HOUSE, DIABLO DAM olograph courtesy of Seattle City Light Company
A FORTY-TWO TON CLIPPER Made in Boeing Plant for Pan-American Airways takes off at Seattle WIND TUNNEL, UNIVERSITY OK WASHINGTON
Photograph courtesy of Camera Shop, Vancouver VANCOIVER WATERFRONT, SHOWING PORT TERMINAL WRAPPING AND PACKING APPLES IN A YAKIMA PLANT Photograph courtesy of Jerry Dwyer
town was platted in 1899, by John Maloney and his wife, and incor- porated in 1909. Its name means inland people. At 61.5 771. is a junction with a forest road. Left on this road to M1ller R1ver Lodge, 2 m., where the Forest Service maintains a public campsite and picnic grounds. From the end of the road, 4 m., a trail leads along the east fork of the Miller River to FLORENCE FALLS and DOROTHY LAKE (shelter camp), 8 m. (3,150 alt.), where fishing for eastern brook trout is good. A Forest Service camp (tourist facilities) is maintained at MONEY CREEK PARK, at 62.8 771. on State 15. GROTTO, 64.8 m. (821 alt., 65 pop.), a settlement around a cement plant, was named by fanciful visitors, seeing for the first time the deep gorges and ravines of GROTTO MOUNTAIN (5,333 alt.), which overhangs the town. Grotto was a railroad construction camp for a short time in the nineties. BARING, 68.7 m. (759 alt., 95 pop.), a lumber town, was named for its proximity to Mount Baring (6,125 alt-)- At 71.2 771. in EAGLE FALLS, the Skykomish plunges in a tumult of white water. At 74.1 771. a trail leads L. to SUNSET FALLS, 0.3 77j., and Sun- set Falls Inn (tourist facilities). Down the rocky face of the canyon, BRIDAL VEIL FALLS drapes a ribbon of lacy spray. Towering above is MOUNT INDEX (5,639 alt), named for the peculiar leaning rock needles that make up its sharp-crested bulk, pointing to- ward the northern sky. West of the falls, State 15 follows the South Fork of the Skykomish River. At 74.5 m. is the junction with a graveled road. Right here to INDEX, 0.9 m. (532 alt., 217 pop.), a quaint little town, cowering beneath jagged peaks, on the North Fork of the Skykomish River. Wooden sidewalks and paintless frame buildings line the short main street. In a region of rich mineral resources, it was a brisk mining center 30 years ago; the Sunset M1ne, largest of the old mines and famed as a man-killer, continues operation. Amos D. Gunn opened a tavern here in 1890, secured a post office the next year, and platted the town in 1893, naming it after Mount Index. Gunn's name was given to adjacent GUNN PEAK (6,245 alt.). Besides bornite (a high grade copper ore), gold, silver, antimony, molybdenum, and several arsenates are found in the vicinity. North of Index the road narrows, running parallel to a logging railroad and the North Fork of the Skykomish River, which is fed by numerous small creeks that cross the route. At 3.9 m. the road crosses the boundary of the SNO- QUALMIE NATIONAL FOREST. At 8.9 m. is Galena Guard Stat1on, where visitors to up-river points are requested to register before entering the forest. Near the site of the old Galena mining camp, at 9.5 m., is the junction with a forest road; L. here 4 m. through the steep-walled canyon of Silver Creek, past abandoned mine shafts to MINERAL CITY, virtually a ghost town since its miners departed; here the forest road ends, and a trail leads to MONTE CRISTO, 8.7 m. (see Tour ib). At 11.7 ra. on the main side road is TROUBLESOME CREEK, where the Forest Service maintains a camp, with the usual facilities, and has set aside an area for private summer homes. Crossing a bridge the road sweeps past BEAR FALLS, 12 m., where the steelhead fishing is good, and climbs SAN JUAN CREEK, 13 m., overlooking the North Fork River. Here is another Forest Service camp with picnic grounds. The road ends at Garland Hot Spr1ncs, 14 m., a private resort (hotel, store, cabin, camp, and restaurant facilities; swimming pool).
From here a trail leads to GOBLIN CREEK, 2 m., near its confluence with the North Fork River. At 3 m. the trail passes a double falls that cascades into the North Fork River. The ascent sharpens rapidly. At 4 m. is a Ranger Cab1n (campgrounds and pasturage for horses) with barn and corral beside it. QUARTZ CREEK flows through the camp site; L. from the ranger cabin a side trail climbs 2 m. to the divide separating the valley of the North Fork of the Skykomish from the drainage basin of SLOAN CREEK. At 4.3 m. on the main trail is a junction with Benchmark Trail: R. here across the river and up the backbone ridge overlooking West Cady Creek to BENCHMARK LOOKOUT, 6 m. (5,815 alt.). From the junction, the main trail continues through forests where the tops of the trees are so close together that sunshine scarcely penetrates. At 7.5 m. is a junction with Pass Creek trail: R. here through CADY PASS, 3.3 m., to the mountain terminus of the WENATCHEE RIVER ROAD, 10.5 ra. At 8 m. on the main trail is Two-Jacks Cab1n. Stands of white fir and hem- lock are scattered across open meadowland. Passing a well-constructed Cab1n, 12.8 m., which marks the site of a silver mine, and making a steep ascent, the trail reaches DISHPAN GAP, 14.8 m. Here the route becomes a part of the incomplete Cascade Crest Trail, which, as planned, will extend south through Oregon into the Sierra Nevada Range. At 15.8 m. is MEANDER MEADOWS, where the trail levels off for a short distance, before skirting KODAK PEAK, 17 ro. (6,105 alt.), and descending INDIAN PASS, 18.5 m. From WHITE PASS, at 23 m., overshadowed by WHITE MOUNTAIN, (6,986 alt.) the trail swings northeast over broken terrain. At 25 m. is WHITE RIVER GLACIER, source of an eastward flowing stream, and at 27 m., WHITE CHUCK GLACIER, a great spread of pure ice flanked by rocky cliffs. (Inexperienced mountaineers should not attempt to go farther, and guides are required by the most hardened and experienced. Here a view is clear of GLACIER PEAK (10,436 alt.), its rounded dome sloping away into enormous snowfields, and a series of other glaciers, including Chocolate, Suiattle, and White Chuck. The Glacier Peak Recreation Area, except for Forest Service trails and lean-to shelters, is undeveloped and unimproved. Hiking and climbing parties will find the region comparatively easy of access, but must depend entirely on their own equipment and resources on the trail. GOLD BAR, at 82.4 m. on State 15 (206 alt., 307 pop.), is a logging headquarters and center of an area of small farms. A pros- pectors' camp in 1889, it was named by an enthusiast who found traces of wealth on a river bar. After Gold Bar became a construction camp for the Great Northern, anti-Chinese sentiment was inflamed by a shooting fray started by disreputable camp followers. To save the lives of the threatened Chinese, Edward Bauer, a construction engineer, shipped them out of camp in rude, hastily contrived coffins. Right from Gold Bar a dirt road leads along the Wallace River and, at 4.5 m., connects with a trail to Wallace Falls and Wallace Lake, 7 m., at the base of Mount Stickney (5,312 alt.) Both river and lake provide good fishing. STARTUP (tourist accommodations at inn), 84.2 m. (158 alt., 450 pop.), where the Wallace River flows into the Skykomish, is not so called, strangely enough, because it is the place from which begins the real ascent of the Cascade slope. The town at first was named Wallace, but its mail was frequently misdirected to Wallace, Idaho; so it was renamed for George S. Startup, manager of a sawmill. Startup is a logging town, but diversified farming is gaining a foot- hold in its environs. Like other lonely pioneers, F. M. Sparling, the first settler, advertised for a wife in the Heart and Hand
Magazine and happily married Eva Helmic, of Ohio, in 1889. SULTAN, 88.3 m. (114 alt, 961 pop.), at the confluence of the Sultan and Skykomish Rivers, was formerly a lumber-manufacturing center. It was named for Tseul-tud, a chief of the Snohomish tribe. Ranchers of the vicinity divide their time between the land and near-by logging camps. On week-ends the town is often crowded with lumber- jacks, mainly single men, who keep the beer taps running on paydays. Reckless, hardy, and high-spirited, for all their periodic spells of job- lessness, the loggers are colorful in their woods garb: mackinaws and waist overalls, "stagged" at the boot tops; oilskins and tarpaulin trousers, or "tin pants"; red felt hats—worn because they are easily seen in the woods; calked boots that leave a myriad tiny punctures on a wood floor. In 1870 placer miners found "color" along the Sultan River, and further discoveries in 1876 attracted more fortune hunters. The first settlers were several Chinese, who remained to pan for meager returns in the yellow flakes. In 1880 John Nailor and his Indian wife occupied a claim at the present townsite, their home becoming a stopping place for "mavericks" and "hornspooners" who combed the region. Mining companies hauled in machinery, regulated the industry, and created a boom in 1887. Light-draft river steamers soon pushed up the river, the Mama being the first to reach Sultan, in 1888. Forests surrounded the settlement, so dense—some have claimed—that lamps were lighted at three o'clock each afternoon. Prosperity lasted through the con- struction period of the Great Northern Railroad, which in 1891 made Sultan a base for tracklayers west of the Cascades. But shanty towns fringing the settlement, where gambling, drinking, and immorality flourished, demoralized the work and were the scene of several violent deaths. West of Sultan, State 15 traverses logged-off land, some acres masked by second-growth timber, others partially cleared of stumps and given over to farming. At 95.9 m. is the junction with a graveled road. Right on this road is LAKE ROESIGER, 12 m., where the angler finds good catches of trout, crappie, perch, and bass. MONROE, 96.2 m. (68 alt., 1,590 pop.), is entered from the east on the main street, which is lined with well-painted frame buildings. It lies in gently rolling country adjacent to the Skykomish River. Monroe is exceptional among Washington towns in that no speculative frenzies or booms have stimulated its gradual transition from a logging center to a rich farming community. Nurseries and greenhouses are maintained by the Great Northern; other industries include a large cannery and a milk condensery. In 1873 Salem Wood began a settlement one mile from the site of Monroe, naming the region Park Place. John Vanasdlen, who opened a store and post office here in 1889, renamed it Monroe at the request of postal authorities. Another town, plotted when the Great Northern arrived, was called Tye, although the station was designated Wales. Vanasdlen moved to the new sitt, and railroad officials changed the
station name to that of the post office. Sawmill construction moved into the region. During the chaotic period in the early thirties, a study group of farmers and unemployed emerged, which finally became the Self-Help Co-operative of Monroe, now operating a cannery, wood- yard, and distributing agency. Entrance to the Wash1ngton State Reformatory (open g-4 daily) is at 100.8m. The 700 inmates cultivate the 600-acre farm and sell produce to other State institutions. Athletics are an important activity, and a minstrel show is held annually in November. The Sno- homish County Hospital and Poor Farm are to the left. The Snohom1sh Lettuce Farm, 101.3 m., 1,500 acres in extent, is one of the largest farms of its kind in the State. During the growing season the pale green plants extend in rows across the black loam; in midsummer the farm is thronged with field hands, mostly migratory families. In recent years some opposition to labor organization developed among growers in the vicinity, and State police were called in to dis- perse strikers during this period. A narrow-gauge railway collects the produce from tractor-drawn wagons and transports it to the central loading depot, where the lettuce is sorted, crated, and packed in refrig- erator cars for shipment. The annual production averages 800 carloads. SNOHOMISH, 104.5 m. (92 alt., 2,794 P<>p.). at the confluence of the Snohomish and Pilchuck Rivers, is the market center of outlying truck and dairy farms; small shingle mills operate part of the time. Snohomish, for long the seat of Snohomish County, was founded after Congress, in 1853, approved the building of a military road from Steilacoom to Fort Bellingham. The next year five Steilacoom settlers formed an impromptu syndicate to acquire land claims beside the pro- posed ferry crossing on the Snohomish River. One of these five, E. C. Ferguson, framed a house at Steilacoom in 1860, and shipped it by steamer to be set up in the new settlement. After the legislature separated the mainland district from Island County and made Mukilteo the county seat in 1861, the seat was moved by the voters to the newer town, Snohomish City, whose popula- tion numbered 25 males. County business was conducted over the bar of the Blue Eagle Saloon. The town's first family, that of John Palmer, arrived in 1863, logging began in 1864 with a yoke or two of oxen, and a community sawmill was incorporated in 1866. At the head of navigable waters, the village prospered; a shipyard launched the steamer Ruby in 1867. A school was opened in 1869; the townsite was platted in 1871; and by 1873 cultural forces were strong enough to support an Ath- eneum Society and a public library. The population reached 200 by 1876, with 20 logging camps in the vicinity. The first church and a newspaper—Eldridge Morse's Northern Star—were started. The pop- ulation increased to 400 by 1882 and nearly doubled in the next two years. During the middle eighties the Snohomish Eye succeeded the defunct Star; the first shingle mill in the county began operating; a minor wave of the anti-Chinese riots elsewhere culminated in the
dynamiting of a laundry. In 1888 rail connections with the Seattle. Lake Shore & Eastern Railroad were finished. Next year an electric power plant was built. With a population of 2,4.69 in 1890, Sno- homish was incorporated as a third-class city. A vast expenditure of corporate funds to develop the industries of Everett soon aroused civic rivalry; the crisis came after 1894, when a second change of the county seat was proposed. After the hotly contested election, a court order was necessary to remove the records to Everett. Snohomish, however, showed a steady growth until about 1910, having nine mills and other plants in that year. A fire destroyed the largest mill and, after several others were dismantled, the city became primarily an agricultural center. The Publ1c L1brary (open 2-8 weekdays), Cedar St. between 1st and Pearl Aves., with 4,300 volumes, has supplanted its early predecessor of 1873. The building differs considerably from the ma- jority of Carnegie libraries; it is of frame and buff-colored concrete, designed in modified mission style, with a tile roof. Among valuable donations made by Snohomish citizens are three volumes of Shake- speare, more than 100 years old, given by P. W. Fobes, an old settler. The Snohomish High School now stands on the S1te of the Old Courthouse, 5th St. and Ave. D. Crossing the tree-shaded Pilchuck River at the eastern edge of town, State 15 leaves the city on Avenue D and continues along the edge of the Snohomish Valley, until it descends sharply to Ebey Slough, 110.3 m. Westward from this point it runs through bottom lands, cut by swamps and bogs, and crosses the Snohomish River at 112.2 m. At 110.5 m. is a junction with State 15-A, a concrete-paved road (see Tour 8b). State 15 enters EVERETT, 113.3 m. (30 alt., 30,224 pop.) (see Everett), at the junction with US 99 (see Tour 8b). iiiiiniiiai Tour ID Renton—Enumclaw—Buckley—Mowich Entrance to Mount Rainier National Park; 53.9 m., State 5. Road concrete-paved from Renton to south of Wilkeson; elsewhere gravel- surfaced. Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific R.R. roughly parallels route
between Renton and Enumclaw; Northern Pacific Ry. parallels route between Enumclaw and Fairfax. Limited accommodations in larger towns. Occasional tourist and forest camps. This branch of State 5 runs southeast from Renton through Maple Valley and Black Diamond to Enumclaw, then drops south until it approaches Mount Rainier National Park. The road crosses many rivers and gorges, often picturesque, and terminates within sight of the peaks of the Cascades. The major interest of the route, however, is the old mining country it traverses. Once the richest coal area of the State, these sections of King and Pierce counties are today spotted with ghost towns, some completely shut down, others still feebly carrying on their traditional occupations. East in RENTON (see Tour lb) 0 m., (40 alt., 4,488 pop.), at the junction of US 10 and a branch of State 5. South of Renton, State 5, a concrete-paved road, follows the course of the Cedar River, traveling through an aisle of large softwood trees. Cottonwood Park (R), 0.8 m., which lies under the shade of branches on the bank of the river, is a popular picnic ground during summer and spring months. After running along the side of a high cliff (L), the highway passes a group of summer homes (R) beside the river. To the north the expansive lawns of the Maplewood Golf Club Course (week- days 50c; Sat., Sun., holidays 75c), 1.9 m. (L), enhance the charm of the languid woodland setting. State 5 crosses the Cedar River over a bridge at 2.2 m., and pen- etrates a valley dotted with truck gardens, dairy farms, and dwellings. The river and the tracks of the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad run alongside the road. At the Pac1f1c Coast Coal Company Powerhouse, 5.5 m. (R), a few feet from the highway, is a towering wooden frame skeleton and immense slag heaps. At 6.2 m. is a junction with crossroads leading to a number of lake resorts. The region within a radius of several miles from the highway is dotted with lakes which attract large week-end and vacation crowds during spring and summer months. Across the railroad (L), 6.6 m., the old Cedar Mounta1n Coal M1ne is still in operation. Modern homes with flower gardens mingle with wayside shops, near the river bank where great alders and maples rise. Farther south are several small chicken ranches, fields of berries, and farms. On a hillside near the railroad tracks is Maple Valley, 10.3 m. (343 alt., 250 pop.), with a school, a tavern, a water tank, and an old depot. South of Maple Valley State 5 crosses the Cedar River over a bridge, 10.4 m., and enters a valley where dairy cattle graze in lush pasture lands. Then the road passes a stretch of stumps and second growth trees and swings westerly through an aisle formed by dog- wood, tall firs, and maples. At 14.3 m. is a junction with State 5-A, a concrete-paved road.
Right on this road 1.2 m. to a junction with a concrete-paved road. Right on the latter road to LAKE WILDERNESS, 2.9 m., a heavily frequented summer bathing, boating, picnicking, and camping resort. Near by is LAKE LUCERNE, another popular resort. State 5-A, west of the junction, continues to KENT, 10 m., (42 alt., 2,588 pop.), (see Tour 2c), where it joins another branch of State 5. Left from the junction of State 5 and State 5-A on a gravel-surfaced road to SELLECK, 6.5 m. (1,070 alt., 4.15 pop.), a lumber town which in recent years was the scene of protracted labor strife. South of the junction State 5 passes through an area of second- growth fir to enter stump lands. The Cascade Mountains rise on the east. At 17.5 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left on this road through leafy woods to the STRAIN MINE (R), 0.2 m. A coal-laden bunker overhangs the road. Northwest of the mine the road is cut through stump fields to the edge of a hill covered with great smoking slag heaps and the black, dusty sheet iron structure of the Cont1nental Coal M1nes (R), 2.5 m. Ahead are the silhouettes of snow-capped mountains, and square little dwellings, all in need of paint, scattered on both sides of the road. RAVENSDALE, 3.2 m. (619 alt., 109 pop.), built along a fluffy green hill which hovers above a gullied flat, is a cluster of modest houses about a red two-story depot. A red-brick schoolhouse stands on the main street. The town is on the main line of the Northern Pacific Railroad and depends largely on the operation of near-by coal mines for its livelihood. In 1915 a great explosion in a Ravensdale mine killed 31 persons—one of the worst tragedies in local mining history. There is some logging in the vicinity for pulpwood, alder, and maple, and a few small tie mills that utilize the second growth in the hills. Truck gardening, dairy farming and poultry ranching are on the increase. BLACK DIAMOND, 18.1 m. (610 alt., 1,40x3 pop.), is readily identifiable as a mining town by the great coal-loading bunkers which are spread over lines of freight cars. It has a shabby, ancient depot and a few uniform ramshackle frame houses, which perch on the brow of a hill, and at certain times of the year cows may be seen grazing in the streets. The town derives its name from the Black Diamond Coal Company of California. Profitable coal veins were found in the vicinity in 1890 and the Black Diamond mines were soon opened; by 1895 they had taken first place in King County production and held this position for many years. At 20 m. is a junction with a gravel-surfaced road which leads (R) 2 m. to FLAMING GEYSER PARK, (see Tour 2c) and be- comes part of State 5-B as it continues to AUBURN, 13 m. (90 alt., 4,213 pop.), Tour 2c). Penetrating an area of dairy farms, where wide green pastures alternate with fields of bleached and charred stumps, State 5 passes the Krain Ball Room (L), 23.9 m., a large frame structure in which miners hold dances. The rolling hills (L) are tinted with shades of green which range from the bright emerald of maple and alder growth to the greenish black of Douglas fir. Behind the hills rises the giant silver bulk of Mount Rainier. At 25.6 m. is a junction with a gravel-surfaced road. Left on this winding thoroughfare to GREEN RIVER GORGE, 4 m. Here,
Green River cuts through sandstone and shale to form a deep, rugged canyon with numerous "kettles" and other grotesque formations carved by the water. Small falls gush down the rocky walls. A bridge from which an excellent view of the Gorge is to be had spans the river, but vehicles are not permitted to stop on it. Catwalks are provided at lower levels. Heavy forest growths creep to the brink of the five-mile canyon. Tourist resorts have commercialized the gorge to some extent, and motorists are usually charged a parking fee of 25c, which permits the inspection of the canyon at close range. Cabins, provisions, and meals are also available. South of the junction State 5 winds through pastures, berry farms, and fields of stumps and second growth. ENUMCLAW, 26.2 m. (742 alt., 2,627 Ppp.) (see Tour 2c), is at the junction of State 5 with US 410, which is another branch of State 5 (see Tour 2c). South of Enumclaw, State 5, offering a clear view of Mount Rainier and the serrated peaks of the Cascades, runs through an area of pros- perous dairy farms. Crossing the White River over a bridge, 29.6 m., the highway ascends to BUCKLEY, 30.4 m. (723 alt., 1,170 pop.), on the south side of the White River. Buckley is sometimes called "The City of Good Water," because of the cool, clear water with which the community is supplied. First known as "Perkins' Landing," it became White River Siding when the Northern Pacific Railroad built through the settlement. It retained this name until 1888, when Alexander Wickersham platted the townsite and called it Buckley in honor of the division super- intendent of the Northern Pacific. The White River Shingle Mill was built in 1886, and in 1888 the Whitten brothers started the Banner, one of the first county newspapers. Drawing from the largest untouched timber belts east of the Olympic Mountains, the town was made by lumbering. Today, Buckley is no longer a lumber center, but the back country is still being logged and many carloads of logs are shipped annually through the town. Mining has also played a part in the local economy. The rich soil of the surrounding plateau lands, known as "Buckley loam," has made several types of agriculture profit- able. Fruit growing and diversified farming are increasing and the community boasts of the quality of its peaches, annually celebrated at its "Peacherino Festival." In the town proper, old, comfortable houses are widely spaced on the sleepy streets. Railroad tracks divide the town, where a large por- tion of the business district is located near the depot. The nearness of the mountains, where game is abundant, has made the place an out- fitting center for hunting parties. In BUCKLEY PARK, a triangular plot of grass at Main Street and River Avenue, is a tree stump ii1/* feet in diameter and 38 feet in circumference. From this tree 56,000 board feet of timber were cut. Its estimated age is 2,000 years. Right from Main Street on Cottage Street, which becomes a gravel-surfaced road, 0.5 m. to Ryan Road. Left on Ryan Road, 1.8 m. to the Wash1ngton State Custod1al School, a group of seven low white buildings completed in 1939 with the aid of the Work Projects Administration at a cost of $550,000.
It is a model custodial school, among the first in the country, and makes use of the most modern developments in medicine and psychiatry. Right from the Buckley City center on Main Street which becomes another branch of State 5. At 2.2 m., the road bridges a flume, beginning of the Puget Sound Power and Light Company's power canal to near-by Lake Tapps. Water from the White River, which flows north of the road, forms an artificial lake here. In the canal, set in the concrete dam, are eight Rotary F1sh Screens, re- putedly the largest in the world, which prevent fish from entering the flume, saving from death thousands each year. Each of the fish screens is 12 feet long and is rotated by electric power. They were constructed in 1938 and 1939 by the WPA under the sponsorship of the State Department of Fisheries. West of the canal, this branch of State 5 winds drunkenly along the edge of Dingle Basin (R) and ascends through a lane of large trees to wide fields. West of the orchard the highway, when it is not bordered with groves of trees, presents a vista of rambling old farmhouses in wide fields touched with the gold of yellow mustard and buttercups. The highway crosses a planked Power Flume, 4.5 m., through which the water from White River is conveyed to Tapps and thence to the Puget Sound Power and Light Company's power houses at Dieringer (see Tour zc). After passing chicken houses, long and barrack-like, the highway reaches Connell Pra1r1e Block House (L) 5.1 m., on the brow of a small terrace-like bench overlooking Connell Prairie. The old blockhouse is made of cedar logs, split so that the inner wall is comparatively flat, and chinked with moss. Such nails as were used in its construction are of the old square cut type. Rocks piled around the base of the structure when it was built have been scattered. In the upper part are apertures for rifles. There is a junction here with a dirt road. Left on this road, 0.6 m., is a Monument with inscriptions telling of the death of several army officers and men in two Indian ambushes in 1855. The monument also notes that the old Fort Steilacoom military road ran 50 feet away from this spot. West of the junction this branch of State 5, after pushing through the heart of a good farming area, ends in SUMNER, 13 m. (69 alt., 2,140 pop.), at a junction with US 410 (see Tour 2d). South of Buckley the railroad tracks, lined with log-laden flat cars, parallel the highway. The mountains (L) rise abruptly in the distance. At 33.4 m., near a bridge which crosses South Prairie Creek, is a large slag pile, still burning, the remains of an abandoned mine. Once a bustling mining town, BURNETT, 33.6 m. (517 alt., 75 pop.), has lapsed into somnolence since the Pacific Coast Coal Company closed its mines near by in 1927. Burnett residents sustain themselves from "gyppo" mines—small coal operations conducted usually by family groups—back in the foothills. A few drab houses, many of them abandoned, constitute the town, which was named for Charles H. Burnett, a pioneer Northwestern mine operator. Ascending through a thick growth of small timber, State 5 crosses bridges over Gale and Wilkeson Creeks. In the heart of what was once a rich coal-producing region, WILKESON, 36.5 m. (851 alt., 369 pop.), has been transformed into a ghost community by the depletion of its coal deposits and forests. Sandstone quarries were also worked here. The town was named for Samuel Wilkeson, secretary of the board of the Northern Pacific Railway, which built a line to the town in 1876 and began cutting coal in 1879. The Oregon Improvement Company, a branch of the Union Pacific, acquired control of the mines in 1883 and
operated them until 1885. The Wilkeson Coal and Coke Company took over the operations in the early nineties. Today, a few small mines are still being worked, but the town has been largely abandoned and many of the houses are empty and decayed. The present popula- tion, a remnant from the earlier days of prosperity, is for the main part dependent upon relief. South of Wilkeson, the highway crosses a bridge over Wilkeson Creek and sweeps upward, rounding the contour of a hill between a grove of tall trees. At 37.8 m. is a junction with a concrete-paved road. Right on this road 0.5 m. to CARBONADO (1,146 alt., 75 pop.), a "model" mining community, which passed into virtual oblivion .when the Pacific Coast Coal Company abandoned its operations here in the late twenties. The company, which owned the town, paved the streets, installed a sewerage and dra1nage system, and on occasion repainted the houses, which were rented at an average of $14 monthly. At one time 300 were employed in the mines; the town maintained soccer and baseball teams, and there were several fraternal organizations and societies. A large community hall, a store, a school building, and long rows of chocolate-painted picket fences with houses behind them, constitute the present settlement. Downhill from First Street is the old Carbonado mine, which once kept the town busy. When the company closed the mine, it removed the pumps, and five miles of collieries were so heavily flooded as to make their reclamation im- possible. South of the junction, State 5 passes a coal-loading chute (R) built on the edge of a pasture. The railroad parallels the highway. Climbing along a deep valley (R), the road winds along a cut in the hillside and reaches a wild canyon with stone cliffs among the .young second- growth trees. A bridge, 41.2 m., swings high over a deep gorge through which rushes the waters of the Carbon River. At 41.7 m. is a junction with a gravel-surfaced road. Left on this road, which swings through the Carbon River valley past a coal-loading, bunker, is an old mine. From the bunker the road drops rapidly to the bottom of the river canyon where FAIRFAX, 3.0 m. (1,350 alt., 200 pop.), at one time a flourishing mining and lumbering town, is marked by an aban- doned depot. A few houses scattered under large trees are occupied; but across the river the deserted structures built by the Eatonville Lumber Company during an earlier logging boom are mournful reminders of feverishly active days. Near the depot and mine bunkers are an old school and a rambling structure which once housed a large lumber mill. A few logging locomotives lie rusting along the tracks. In Fairfax is a junction with a forest road. Left on this road, which crosses the Carbon River over a bridge to Camp Electron, a CCC camp, 0.6 m. East of Fairfax the main side road crosses the boundary of the Snoqualmie National Forest at 4 m. Here towering trees shade Tolmie Creek, a crystal stream which plunges over great boulders on its way down the abrupt moun- tainside into the Carbon River. Under the supervision of the United States Forestry Department, logging by private companies is carried on in this forest, and occasionally the road provides views of logging operations on the timbered hillsides. The CARBON RIVER ENTRANCE TO MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK (open weekdays, 6 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Sat., Sun., holidays, 5 a.m. to 11 p.m.) 7.6 m., is marked by a building on the bottom of the canyon floor on the brink of tie river. The building and the small rustic structures of the ranger
station are dwarfed by huge trees. Directly north are the grizzled sides of Burnt Mountain and Carbon Ridge, where the spired peak of Old Baldy Mountain rises 5,790 feet. Once a great fire burned over the slopes of these mountains, leaving only a scattering of white dead trunks. Through a thin covering of second growth, the cliffs and rock slides are grey scars sometimes crossed by the thread of a falling stream. To the south is Tolmie Peak, Castle Rock, and Mother Mountain, whose altitude of 6,540 feet is almost hidden by the heavy growth of timber all about it. From here the road extends almost to the foot of Carbon Glacier, and in the summer time motorists may drive six miles farther east and south almost to the snowline. Southeast of the junction, State 5, now a narrow gravel-surfaced road, winds back and forth in ascending an abrupt mountain slope, clinging to the crest of a high plateau. Straight ahead Mount Rainier lifts itself high above clumps of peaks, while far below (R) is the Carbon River. At 48.6 m. the highway descends through giant timber; from below (R), in the valley of the Mowich River, come sounds of logging operations. At 53.4 m. a deep basin (R) is walled with sheer cliffs. Along the forested floor is the river, its roar reaching through the stillness of the forest. The road ends 53.9 m., 0.2 m. from the MOWICH ENTRANCE TO MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK, which is announced by a wooden sign. The TolMIE Monument near by commemorates the arrival here in 1833 of Dr. William Fraser Tolmie, the first white man to explore this area. The monument was dedicated Sep- tember 2, 1933, in the presence of Tolmie's son, Simon Fraser Tolmie, then Prime Minister of British Columbia. IIIllilillºlllllllllllldlilllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllidilllllllllll:Illllllllllllfilllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll Tour 2 (Lewiston, Idaho) — Clarkston — Dodge — Walla Walla — Pasco— Buena Junction—Yakima—Tacoma–Olympia—Aberdeen; US 410, US 410-97, US 41O-99. Idaho Line to Aberdeen, 461.1 m. Concrete-paved or bituminous-surfaced roadbed throughout; Chinook Pass over Cascade Mountains usually closed during midwinter; chains advisable over mountains from November to March. Camas Prairie R.R. roughly parallels route between Clarkston and Silcott; Oregon-Washington R.R. and Navigation Company between Pomeroy and
Yakima; Northern Pacific Ry. between Pasco and Yakima and between Auburn and Aberdeen. Hotel accommodations in cities and in larger towns; tourist camps, some with trailer facilities, in or near most cities; forest camps in mountains. This longest trans-State route presents a cross section of the divers- ified and contrasting terrain, climate, and economy of Washington. West of the Idaho Line, US 410 climbs upward from the irrigated orchards of the Snake River Valley through rugged, treeless hills, cut by narrow valleys and steep-walled canyons; traverses the fertile, un- dulating benchlands of the Walla Walla country and the sandy wastes along the Columbia River; crosses the river and then runs for miles through alfalfa and hop fields, orchards, vineyards, and truck farms, hemmed in by hills covered with sagebrush, dun-gray in the glare of noon, or softly purple as the sun sinks behind the Cascades. Continuing in a northwesterly direction, the highway climbs per- ceptibly, sweeping in broad curves through sparsely settled foothills, marked by scattered evergreens and clumps of aspen and poplar. By degrees the relatively open stands of pine and fir on the eastern slope of the Cascades merge into the heavy forests of cedar, hemlock, and Douglas fir on the windward side. Along the highway as it descends are wooded areas, stump lands, dairy farms, poultry ranches, truck gardens, berry fields, and occasional towns. Then it swings southward through Tacoma and Olympia at the head of Puget Sound and cuts almost due west through rolling hills, once densely forested. Ever more noticeable is the smell of salt in the moist air. At length, in a final broad curve, the route reaches its western terminus at Aberdeen on Grays Harbor. Section a. IDAHO LINE to PASCO; 148 m. US 410, US 410-395 This section of US 410 follows the route of an old Indian trail from the confluence of the turbulent Clearwater River and the silt- laden Snake to the junction of the latter with the Columbia, about 100 miles west of the Idaho Line. Captain Meriwether Lewis and Captain William Clark followed this trail on their return journey in 1806, and Captain Benjamin Bonneville approximated it in 1834-5. Most of the region is sparsely populated. Strung along the highway at widely spaced intervals are several small cities and numerous towns, often little more than a cluster of dwellings around a service station, a grain elevator or two, and a general store and post office combined. Some of these are ghosts of settlements that 60 years ago echoed with the crack of stagecoach whips and the creak of wheels, as heavily loaded wagon trains moved at a turtle's pace toward the mines. From these towns, too, rattled the Conestoga wagons of settlers headed for the lands north of the Snake River. Today weather-worn frame struc- tures, bold-faced frauds with two-story fronts, are reminders of the men and women who with high hopes founded these towns. But dis- couraged by low prices and droughts and the failure of mining pros- pects, they moved on when fears of Indian raids diminished and rail-
roads made hitherto remote areas accessible. The settlements that sur- vived now serve as distributing points or railroad junctions and supply the tourist with hamburgers, beer, and cigarettes, or with gasoline and oil for his car. On this rolling plateau between the Snake River and the Blue Mountains, the colonizing efforts of two Nations met: the one old and experienced in the art of conquest and settlement; the other aggres- sive in its youth, convinced of its manifest destiny. Down the Snake to the Columbia River, fur traders of the Hudson's Bay and North West companies guided their canoes to old Fort Walla Walla, at Wallula, whose site is today marked by a few foundation stones. Following the traders came missionaries, whose first attempt to establish a permanent settlement ended in the tragedy of Waiilatpu. Still trace- able along stream beds and mountain slopes are old trails, first trod by Indians and later worn deep by the feet of thousands of pros- pectors who rushed from one area to another, as rumors spread of Eldorados on lonesome creeks and rivers. Geologic formations here are unusually interesting. Violent upheavals of the earth's crust spread successive layers of lava over this region, and when these movements ceased, water began to sculpture deep canyons, and wind to shape the rough terrain into rolling hills and narrow valleys. US 410 skirts the south bank of the Snake River, with its precipitous walls, for a short distance and then climbs steadily around the steep hillsides, whose rocky slopes, exposed along the nar- row shelf of the roadbed, change from bright vermillion to brownish- black as the highway winds upward. Cattle and sheep forage on the hillsides, parched brown except for a brief interlude in early spring, when the warm winds sweep up the Columbia River and, almost simultaneously with the melting of the snow, bring forth a carpet of grass and flowers. Beyond the summit of the grade, the route zigzags through arable benchlands, where small farms and orchard tracts alternate with ex- tensive wheat acreages and fields of peas, beans, tomatoes, corn, and asparagus. To the south rise the Blue Mountains, shrouded in smoky haze in summer or sharply outlined on clear midwinter days. West of Walla Walla fertile fields give way to nearly level sage- brush barrens. Bordering the highway are shifting hummocks of sand, corrugated by the brisk, steady wind that whips dry tumbleweeds across the waste and piles them in gullies and abandoned irrigation ditches or against deserted farmhouses. In midsummer the heat waves shimmer over the sand dunes and the oily surface of the road. Little wild life is seen: now and then a hawk soars far overhead, or a raven — black scavenger of the wastelands—sits red-eyed on a rocky prom- ontory. Occasionally a coyote, a gray shadow, slips over the horizon, or a jackrabbit springs from beneath the brush like a coil released, and races across the hills. For 15 miles the highway runs northwest, parallel to the Columbia, and then at the confluence of this river and the Snake swings over a long steel bridge into Pasco.
US 410 crosses the IDAHO LINE, 0 m., which here is fixed at midchannel of the Snake River, over a steel suspension bridge that straddles the stream and links the twin dries — Lewiston on the flats east of the river and Clarkston on the west CLARKSTON, 0.5 m. (825 alt-, 3,116 pop.), spreads north-south over the sandy flats of the Snake River. Hemming it in on both the east and the west are steep, treeless bluffs, beyond which stretches a roll- ing plateau. Most of the valley is now under irrigation. Early in the spring the bare branches of the trees and vines glow red-brown with the renewed flow of the sap. In April the orchards are a riot of delicately pink and white blossoms, and gardens and vineyards make geometric patterns of green against the well-cultivated earth. Harvest season is equally beautiful; then red, yellow, and purple grapes load the vines, apples and pears bend the branches of the trees, and melons ripen in the fields. All this produce, as well as the grain and stock of the plateau regions, finds a natural outlet through Clarkston, which serves as the shipping and processing center. Among its industrial units are included meat-packing plants, canneries, box factories, and flour and feed plants. Clarkston is a pleasant town. Its business section is compact, clean, and modern; its residential areas pleasant and uncongested. Shade trees line the streets, and throughout the hot, dry summer the murmur of sprinklers is heard day and night. It has a fine school system, at least a dozen churches, and a weekly paper, the Clarkston Herald. The early settlers found nothing to attract them to Jawbone Flats, as they called the barren basin now the site of Clarkston. In 1863 William Craig, trader and trapper among the Nez Perce, and colonel in the forces that fought the Indians in 1855, established a small ferry at this point and for a number of years furnished transportation to the thousands of prospectors rushing to the gold fields of the Salmon River and the Clearwater districts. Lewiston sprang up on the east side of the stream, but Jawbone Flats remained a range for the horses of John Greenfield. The beginning of Clarkston dates from 1896, when the Lewiston Water and Power Company, with the backing of eastern capital, platted a town and called it Vineland. The next year a bridge was constructed across the river at this point, and soon traffic, which had been handled by the small ferries at various river points, was focused at Vineland, renamed Concord. The town boomed and land sold for as much as $1,000 an acre. By popular petition in 1900, the town officially became Clarkston. West of Clarkston, US 410 for several miles traverses orchards and vineyards spread along the river flats. High hills, barren and eroded by wind and rain, rise on the west, and on the east flows the Snake River, visible through the trees. Beyond it looms a steep bank dom- inated by pyramidal bluffs, scarred by deep gulleys. At the foot of the bank the sunlight catches the gleam of rails, and now and then a train slips by, its whistle echoing against the hills and its smoke a
trailing ribbon that diffuses slowly into the robin's-egg blue sky. In Clarkston is a junction with State 3. Left on this road, the route of an old Nez Perce' Indian trail, downhill along the west bank of the Snake River. Sand spits extend from the shore to form natural jetties. On the right, hills tower to the sky and end in a high plateau that rolls gradually upward to the mountains breaking the southern skyline. SWALLOWS NEST ROCK, 3 m., a rocky cowl, shoots at a sharp angle from the road. Years ago thousands of swallows nested on this cliff, but blasting for an irrigation tunnel killed many and frightened the rest away. Beyond the cliff is the river; a jetty serves to deepen the channel for navigation by divert- ing the main stream from behind an island. The route runs through an almost continuous succession of orchards and vineyards, down a steep grade, and through a rocky cut. Far below the Snake River swirls around the base of basaltic canyon walls and shifting sand bars. At 5.9 m. is a junction with an improved road; L. here is the Asot1n Flour M1ll (visitors by permission), 0.1 m. This mill has in succession been operated by water, steam, and electric power. JERRY, 3 m. (1,200 alt., 25 pop.), a cluster of nondescript buildings, was named for Jerry McGuire, a burley Irish- man who settled here with his Indian wife in the early seventies. Horses were then in great demand for pack trains and stagecoaches. Soon the hills were filled with half-wild mustangs and cayuses, the band at one time numbering more than 1,000, all marked with McGuire's brand, the head of a horse. South of Jerry the road after winding up a steep grade traverses miles and miles of wheat farms. CLOVERLAND, 12.5 m. (1,400 alt., 25 pop.), surrounded by irrigated orchards, wheat farms, and stock ranches, is the center of activity for a population of about 300 people. South of Cloverland the rolling plateau gives way to the wooded foothills of the Blue Mountains. As the grade becomes steeper the road twists and turns, following the contours of the slopes, into wild country where upland birds, deer, and elk are plentiful. This dirt road is rough and narrow (caution is advised). UMATILLA NATIONAL FOREST, 24.5 m., extends westward into Gar- field County and southward into Oregon. At 30 m. is the WENATCHEE GUARD STATION and a junction with a forest road that loops back to POMEROY, 40 m. (see below). On State 3, the main side road, is ASOTIN, 6.1 m. (760 alt., 686 pop.), at the confluence of the Snake River, which bends sharply west at this point, and ASOTIN (Ind. eel) CREEK, a bold mountain stream walled in by bluffs several hundred feet in height. The protected triangular flats were for genera- tions a favorite camping ground of Indian bands. Few settlers came to the fertile land along Asotin Creek until the close of the Nez Perci war in the late seventies stimulated rapid homesteading. Two settlements, Asotin and Asotin City, were started within half a mile of each other. In 1881 J. J. Kanawyer built the first ferry on the upper Snake River and began operating it from Asotin at the mouth of the creek, and in the same year Frank Curtis erected a sawmill here. Except for a few rough mountain trails, the only means of transportation was the river. Heavy democrat wagons rolled in from the back country with cargo, chiefly wheat and lumber, for Lewiston. The bitter rivalry between the two settlements ended with the removal of the business houses to the younger settlement at the mouth of the creek; and in 1886, by an act of the Territorial legislature, the name Asotin was adopted for the com- bined settlement. Reminiscent of these early boom days is the Fryxell Opera House, an old-fashioned frame structure, once the center of community social life. Today Asotin is the center of vineyards and orchards and wheat farms and the threshold to one of the few remaining primitive areas—the Grande Ronde Valley. The town is still a river freighting point, although most of the traffic is now handled by motor truck. The Asotin County Sentinel, started in 1883, is published weekly; its editor, David Grew, is the author of several novels. Right from Asotin, State 3 leads southwest across an undulating plateau.
Once the range of horses and cattle, this area is now largely under cultivation. ANATONE, 25 m. (2,800 alt., 300 pop.), a score of old frame buildings clus- tering along narrow streets, nestles at the foot of the Blue Mountains. One of the oldest trading posts of the region, it was the center of considerable activity in the sixties, when it was a regular stopping point on the Asotin route to the gold-fields of Florence and Elk City in the Salmon River country of Idaho Territory. In the late seventies rumors of impending trouble with the Indians sent the settlers of the region scurrying to the John Carter place, a half-mile from Anatone, where they built a stockade 100 feet square and stocked it with provisions and arms. No hostilities occurred, but the fort served to hold settlers in the region until they recovered from their fright. At about this time William Farish built a small sawmill near Anatone; within a few years he was running at least eight mills and was hauling the cut lumber by ox team to the Snake River to be rafted downstream. This activity slowly died, and today Anatone sleeps, dreaming of its past, while it supplies the needs of the wheat farmers and stockmen of the surrounding area. South of Anatone State 3 winds through sparsely settled foothills to FIELD'S SPRINGS STATE PARK (camping facili- ties). The large evergreens, grassy open spaces, low summer temperature, and excellent spring water of this 1co-acre park make it a favorite refuge from the summer heat of the Snake River Valley. Old settlers still cling to the original name, Puffer Springs. The GRANDE RONDE (Fr. great round) RIVER, 37.9 m., marks the end of this branch of State 3. Here the river cuts its tumultuous course through a winding canyon eastward to the Snake. The region is wild and beautiful with its rugged mountains and rocky draws, its broad peaceful valleys and forests abounding in elk and deer, and its sparkling streams filled with salmon and trout. This was the home of the Nez Perc£ Indians, whose last great chief, Hallshallakeen (Eagle Wing), or Chief Joseph as he was called by the white settlers, was born at the mouth of Joseph Creek, a tributary of the Grande Ronde. A continuation of State 3 across the Grande Ronde to the Oregon Line, 42.8 m., and thence to Paradise, Oregon, 48.8 m., has been recently opened. Left from Asotin a dirt road leads along the west bank of the Snake River. High, rugged cliffs, yellow, brown, and vermilion, rise in precipitous terraces from both sides of the stream. Long sand bars glint dull yellow in the bright sunlight. The cloudless blue sky fades to dull saffron at the horizon line. BUFFALO ROCK (L), 16.7 m., projects from the scarred cliffs of the east- ern canyon wall. On the Washington side are a number of pictographs on the low rocks near the river's side. Most of the drawings represent men, with huge, square shoulders, short legs, and horned headdresses; others resemble mountain goats, deer, and elk. According to an explanation advanced by the Smithsonian Institution, these pictographs were made by the Basket Maker Indians some 3,000 years ago. South of Buffalo Rock the road continues along the winding course of the Snake River through rugged and picturesque terrain. Time-scarred peaks, some- times 2,000 feet in height, rise above the tortuous course of the stream. In some places the canyon walls are said to be as steep as those of the Grand Canyon of Colorado. Fantastically contoured rocks present a variety of rich colorings under varying conditions of light and shade. The road ends at the Rogersburg Ferry, 22 m. ROGERSBURG, 22.5 m. (810 alt., 42 pop.), at the junction of the Snake River and the Grande Ronde, is set among rocky bluffs of remarkable grandeur and beauty. Here Captain Benjamin Bonneville and his men camped after enjoying a generous reception in the Indian village at the mouth of the Joseph Creek. Bonneville's notes about the valley inspired Washington Irving's descrip- tion of the country. Rogersburg was born of mining booms and nourished during its vigorous youth by the optimism characteristic of booms. The lower Grande Ronde region has experienced a number of mining stampedes. One of these rushes occurred in 1865 as a result of a story of a fabulous gold strike made five years earlier.
In 1860, according to the story, three men beached their canoes on the bar of Shovel Creek, an insignificant stream emptying into the Snake River. In the morning they discovered pay dirt so rich that a pailful of nuggets was secured in a short time. Finding themselves short of supplies, the men hid the nuggets and went to Walla Walla to outfit themselves. There one of them was killed, a second died of natural causes, and the third disappeared. But the report of the find on Shovel Creek lingered, and with each retelling the nuggets grew larger and more numerous. Prospectors, stimulated by the story, year after year made their way to the creek to search for the cached gold and the rich sands where it was found. In 1865 there was a regular stampede, and for a brief time this small creek in the wilds echoed with the sounds of men at work. Soon, however, the men drifted away as hopes faded; but the story persisted. Succeeding years saw other booms come and go, and with them activity in Rogersburg expanded and contracted. Abandonment of river service in the early twentieth century, however, left the town without any ready means of communication with the outside world until the completion of the Asotin- Rogersburg road in 1938. At 7.1 m. is a junction with a dirt road. About a mile down this road is a rock where Indian pictographs are still visible, although decades of weathering have dimmed their sharp outlines. Some of the drawings are easily decipherable. One, a petroglyph, is a carving of two men with flint knives engaged in mortal combat. Others show men, horses, and mountain goats. SILCOTT, 8.7 m. (1,724 alt., 50 pop.), once a bustling pioneer river village, is now only the center of the orchard lands at the junction of Alpowa (Ind. place of rest) Creek and the Snake River. Here Lewis and Clark camped in 1805 and made peace with the Nez Perce bands, and here along the banks of the creek Chief Red Wolf, who had been given some seeds by the Reverend H. H. Spalding, planted, in 1837, the first orchard in the Snake River Valley. In 1861 Sam Smith established a trading post in this part of the country and for years the post was an important crossing point on the river and a stage stop on the Lewiston-Pomeroy route. The name commemorates one of the early sheriffs, John Silcott, who was known for many miles as a man quick on the draw and worthy of respectful attention from would-be law breakers. Silcott with his wife, the daughter of Chief Timothy, ran a little ferry across the river, and the village that took root was known familiarly as Silcott, or Silcott's Landing, until 1882, when it was platted and named Alpowa. For a brief time the settlement flourished around a flour mill and warehouses, but in 1885 the miniature boom collapsed and the original name was restored. A few years later most of the buildings were destroyed by fire. Just north of Silcott the Snake River (R) plunges into the SNAKE RIVER CANYON, 2,000 feet deep, its contorted and convoluted walls revealing the lava flow that once covered the region. Here the highway leaves the river and begins to climb, winding between steep rocky slopes, running along man-made ledges, or skirting creek beds, dry except during spring freshets. Instead of orchards are cattle ranches 1 and well-built, substantial farmhouses with corrals and barns. An occasional band of sheep stands motionless in a corral or on a hillside,
or moves along the highway, a gray undulating mass, heads bobbing with regular irregularity, while a sheep dog nips at the heels of the laggards. T1mothy Memor1al Br1dge, 9.6 m., an arched concrete span over Alpowa Creek, commemorates Chief Timothy, who led Colonel E. J. Steptoe to safety by guiding him safely across the river at night. Basaltic cliffs and promontories tower above the narrow, arid valley. The stream, clear except at spring freshets, sparkles through gravelly bar- rens, interspersed with bright islands of watercress and little groves of cottonwoods and willows. In early days this stream was a trout fisher- man's paradise. West of the Summ1t of the Grade, 21.6 m. (2,785 alt.), US 410 winds through a rocky gorge, above which scraggly brush and timber stagger up the slope. Emerging from the draw the highway runs across a rough, semiarid plateau dotted with willows and scrub trees. This is cattle country, fenced with barbed wire, affording prac- tically year-around grazing. PATAHA (Ind. brush), 29.1 m. (1,850 alt., 25 pop.), is a scatter- ing of buildings far removed from the town's flour mill, which rises tower-like from a clump of trees. The first settler of the site was James Bowers, who arrived in 1861. In 1867 the land was acquired by "Vine" Favor, who for years had driven a stage on the Lewiston route. Favor platted the town in 1882, and for a brief time it was successively known as Waterstown and Favorsburg. Finally it took the Indian name Pataha. When Garfield County was formed in the eighties, Pataha, or Pataha City, was the county seat, but it soon lost out to the rapidly expanding neighboring settlement, Pomeroy. West of Pataha US 410 follows Pataha Creek Canyon. To the south the terrain mounts gradually toward the Blue Mountains. The highway traverses mile after mile of rolling hills, which 75 years ago were covered by thick bunchgrass and today are a checkerboard of wheat and barley fields. POMEROY, 32.1 m. (1,849 alt., 1,720 pop.), seat of Garfield County and terminus of a branch line of the Union Pacific, is the center of the surrounding wheat, barley, and cattle country and for the irrigated acreage to the north, where quantities of beans, alfalfa, fruits, and vegetables are produced. In 1864 Joseph M. Pomeroy came to this region from Ashtabula, Ohio, and started a blooded-stock farm on Pataha Creek, to supply the demand of stagecoach operators. In the late seventies a flour mill was erected, rail connections were constructed, a bank established, a fire department formed, and the townsite platted. The town was then on the stage route to Lewiston, and old timers still talk of the St. George Hotel, where travelers swapped tall tales and stood each other up for drinks. Several times daily during these boom days six-horse coaches clattered into town, the animals in a lather, and dust clouds flying. In 1882 the town was named seat of the newly formed Gar- field County.
During these frontier days Pomeroy was beset with gamblers, road agents, miners, and cattle rustlers. In an effort to maintain order and to control traffic in liquor and drunkenness, the town adopted a local- option measure but this was soon declared unconstitutional. Recalling these boom days an old-timer said, "Main Street had twenty saloons and things were poppin'. The town ain't bigger now an' nothin' is poppin'." Pomeroy, nevertheless, is a prosperous town with a compact business section, neat, shaded, residential districts, and a city park. Its news- paper, the East Washington, is in its sixty-first year (1941). Annually old settlers and their descendants come from miles around to celebrate at a pioneer picnic In Pomeroy is a junction with State 3-K, a graveled road. Left from Main and E. 1st streets, on State 3-K through an agricultural area, largely devoted to wheat and barley. Occasionally bands of sheep and herds of cattle range the more precipitous slopes. Imperceptibly the rolling hills become sharper, and scrubby stands of timber begin to appear as the road penetrates the foothills of the Blue Mountains. At 7.5 m. is a junction with an improved road: R. here through increasingly rugged country, mostly forested, to the northern boundary of the UMATILLA (Ind. water rippling over sand) NATIONAL FOREST, 15.2 m. A fairly heavy stand of ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, western tamarack, Engelmann spruce, and white fir, still mostly virgin timber, make up this forest. The eastern boundary of the TUCANNON GAME PRESERVE (R), an area of 54,560 acres, begins here and extends nine miles southward. At 18 m. is a junction with a dirt road: L. here 0.3 m. to ROSE SPRINGS, a popular mountain resort. Clearwater Lookout Tower, 100 feet high, on the improved road, is a van- tage point affording unobstructed views of the rugged upper Pataha Creek and Charley Creek country to the east and of the Tucannon River region to the west. The Asot1n D1strict Ranger Stat1on here furnishes information and issues fire permits. This lookout station is practically on the divide of the Blue Mountains, a low range that derives its name from the soft, distinctly blue haze that hangs over it during summer and winter months. The first recorded use of the name Blue Mountains occurs in David Thomp- son's journal under the date of August 8, 1811. Nearly half a century later the Reverend Gustavus Hines, recounting his travels in Exploring Expedition to Oregon (1851), describes the mountains as rising "with indescribable beauty and grandeur" and adds that this range "from its azure-like appearance, has been called the 'Blue Mountains'." At 24 m. is a junction with another dirt road; L. here 1.2 m. to TEAL CAMP GROUND (spring water, storm shelters, and camp stoves), pleasantly situated in a grassy clearing surrounded by towering pines, their yellow-brown trunks bright through the dark green needles. SPRUCE SPRING CAMP (camping facilities, spring water), 27.6 m., on the improved road, offers a woodland wilderness with paths leading into the forests. SUNSET POINT, 30 m., affords an excellent view, especially to the west, across country as primitive as it was when only Indians and wild animals inhabited it. From ravines, rugged and beautiful, the Tucannon flows through deep canyons toward the undulating plateau that merges into the treeless Snake River country. In SMOOTHING IRON GAME PRESERVE, 81 m., an area of 30,720 acres, elk and deer are plentiful. At 33 m. is a junction with crossroad: L. here 5 m. to the foot of DIAMOND PEAK; R. 7 m. to Wenatchee Guard Stat1on, where the road loops back to Asotin and Clarkston (see above). The OREGON LINE is crossed at 43 m. (7 miles from Troy, Oregon).
West of Pomeroy US 410 dips and climbs through mile after mile of farmland, largely planted to winter wheat. The fields, left fallow in alternate summers, are seeded in late August or early September. Then come the rains, and within a few days the tender leaves of the wheat appear. By the time the first flurries of snow fill the air, the shoots, toughened and multiplied into bunches, have set their roots firmly in the earth. Serious damage occurs only when intense cold turns the earth to flint before snow has fallen, or when a cold snap follows upon a midwinter chinook that has swept the snow from the fields. These chinook winds may be expected every winter throughout the Inland Empire. For days the country will be held in the iron grip of cold; snow crackles underfoot; and at night the aurora borealis flashes overhead. Then, almost without warning, comes the chinook, usually at night. There is a low moaning sound, as of a prolonged sigh; the air seems alive. Water drips from the eaves of houses, and icicles shatter on the walk below. When morning comes the snow, which a few short hours before had glittered with blinding light, is sodden, turning to rivulets before the eyes. Sometimes as suddenly as the temperature rose, it drops again, as the wind veers from the west to northeast. Then the melting of the snow is halted, and streets and sidewalks are covered with treacherously corrugated ice. At 35 m. is a junction with State 3-L, an improved road. Left here to MARENGO, 4 m. (1,631 alt., 35 pop.), a score of buildings centered around a gas station, a schoolhouse, and a general store. In 1877 the Grange erected a flour mill here, and a post office was established the follow- ing year. In Marengo is a junction with a dirt side road; L. on this road through picturesque Tucannon Canyon. High, rocky walls hem in the narrow valley, broken here and there by scattered brush or an occasional clump of cottonwoods. Fishing is good and Chinese pheasants, quail, and partridge are plentiful. (This road is impassable or dangerous in lointer.) The Ranger Stat1on (R), 17 m. on the dirt road, marks the entrance to the Umatilla National Forest (visitors must report for permits to enter the forest and for fire permits). L1ttle Tucannon Camp (picnic facilities), 19.5 m., lies in an open glade at the fork of the Tucannon and the Little Tucannon Rivers. At 23.5 m. is a junction with Skyline Drive; L on the drive 31.2 m. to IDAHO LINE; R. 14 m. to Dayton (see below). West of the junction with State 3-L, the highway runs between hills which, except for the most precipitous slopes, are planted to wheat and barley. Furrows at right angles to the slope, strip farming, and gully-control measures are evidence of the growing interest in soil con- servation. A few of the steeper slopes are used for cattle range. For several miles the railroad tracks parallel the highway and during harvest season, freight trains labor by in a succession of red box cars and yellow refrigerator cars. DODGE (service station, with rest rooms and luncheon), 44.9 m. (1,400 alt., 10 pop.), at the junction of US 410 and US 295 (see Tour 4b), is a stage junction for Idaho and other eastern points. Orig- inally this hamlet was named for Charles Buckley, who owned most of the land in the district, but when it was discovered that a western
Washington town was also called Buckley, the name was changed to Dodge, commemorating another early settler. West of Dodge US 410 traverses a sparsely settled area. Extending to the horizon line on either side of the road are wheat and barley fields. Paralleling the highway, Pataha Creek (R) flows through a narrow channel. In DELANEY, 53.6 m. (910 alt., 15 pop.), 's a junction with a graveled road. Right on this road along the north bank of TUCANNON (Ind. abundance of bread root) CREEK, which sweeps in broad curves through the rolling hills. The sweep of the hills is unbroken except for an occasional gully, rocky cliff, or stretch of old-fashioned wooden fence. Cattle and sheep graze on the grass- covered hills, so steep in places that it is hard to believe that animals can maintain a foothold. STARBUCK, 8.3 m. (644 alt., 251 pop.), in its heydey was a bustling town of 1,500 people, most of whom were employed in the shops of the O.-W.R.&N. railroad; the monthly pay roll in 1905 amounted to $20,000. The bell, given to the Presbyterian Church by General Starbuck, still sounds from the tower of the town hall. One of the factors in the decline of the town was the introduction of the Mallet locomotive, which generated enough power to negotiate the runs on this section of the line without helpers. In 1932 the shops were closed. Today (194.1) the natural process of disintegration is being accelerated by wreckers, who are moving the town piecemeal to Walla Walla. A number of wheat farmers and sheep ranchers continue to make the town their headquarters. Boats of the Oregon Steam Navigation Company in early days plied between the Columbia and GRANGE CITY, 12.3 m. (520 alt., 2 pop.), at the confluence of the Snake and Tucannon Rivers, today marked by only two houses. In 1873 the merchants and grain shippers of Dayton established a freight and shipping point here. In 1876 a number of farmers identified with the Grange movement, which had spread westward after the panic of 1873, formed the Grange Ware- house Company and named the place Grange City. The completion of a rail line to Dayton in 1881 ended the importance of the water route. Lyons Ferry, 16.3 m., is the point of departure for the ferry (fee $1, car and passengers) to the north bank of the Snake River. The road continues northward along the west side of the Palouse River. At 20.8 m. is a junction with a dirt road: R. here 1 m. to a junction with a trail: 0.1 m. on this trail to PALOUSE FALLS, which plunges over a sheer rocky precipice 198 feet to a great rimrock basin and seethes onward down a gorge to the Columbia. The picturesque tails are described in David Thompson's journals and are mentioned by virtually every later explorer. South of Delaney US 410 swings across the Tucannon River through hilly country. As a conservation measure most farmers in this district seed only half of their land each year. Frequently as an additional safe- guard against erosion, the farm is cultivated in strips, following the contours of slope and gully. Here the route follows the old Walla Walla-Colville wagon trail, over which thousands of settlers and miners traveled when land north of the Snake River was opened to settlement in 1858. The highway winds downhill through mile after mile of care- fully cultivated fields. The Blue Mounta1n Cannery, 68.9 m. (open by permission), is one of several large pea canneries in the Walla Walla district. Mod- ern technology has so revolutionized this canning industry that now the entire process consumes only a few hours. Huge viners, operating in the fields, strip the peas from the vines, remove them from the pods,
and load them in small boxes. These are rushed to a cannery, where the peas are weighed, graded, washed, sorted, blanched, inspected, put into cans, sealed, and finally cooked by steam and pressure. DAYTON, 69.3 m. (1,615 alt-. 3,026 pop.), a pleasant, bustling city, spreads over the V-shaped valley formed by the conjunction of Patit Creek, which courses through the northern section, and the Touchet River, which cuts through the southern section of the city. Main Street, a broad thoroughfare bordered with substantial frame and brick structures, is flanked on the south by an attractive residential district and on the north by the older residences of the original town. Early history of Dayton centered around the point where Pioneer Bridge now crosses the Touchet River. Here an Indian trail crossed the stream, and the grassy flats were a favorite camping ground for Indian bands. Here, too, Lewis and Clark rested on their return journey in May, 1806, and 30 years later Captain Benjamin de Bonneville also camped here. In 1855 H. M. Chase, the first settler, took up lands at the bend of the Touchet, and other settlers soon followed. Among these was Henry C. Rickey, who erected a hotel and, in 1862, started a stage line between Walla Walla and Lewiston by way of the Touchet Valley. Newcomers continued to arrive in increasing numbers, particularly after the Civil War, but little thought was given to the establishment of a town until 1871, when the townsite was platted and filed. Five years later the town was incorporated under the name of Dayton. The town flourished. Situated at the intersection of stage routes, it profited from the transient trade of hundreds of men stampeding to the various mining districts. Additional impetus came from the discovery that the upper benchlands as well as the valleys were eminently suited to growing wheat. In 1875 it became the seat of Columbia County. By 1880 Dayton had a population of 6,300. Then the wave began to recede: a series of fires, the coming of rail lines and the end of stage routes, the deflation of mining booms all contributed to the recession. Only agriculture continued to increase in importance. The Dayton of 1940 is the hub of a highly productive farming area; the major crops are wheat, barley, hay, apples, and peas. Cattle also are raised for beef, the Wheatland Shorthorns, owned by C. J. Brough- ton, being one of the famous herds of beef cattle in the United States. An average of 20,000 sheep are raised annually in the county. The industrial plants include a pea cannery, with a capacity of 500,000 cases a season, apple-packing plants, sawmills, a box factory, a cream- ery, and several grain warehouses. Dayton Days, an annual three-day event, features horse racing, bucking contests, stunt riding, and steer bulldogging. This event and the picnic of the Columbia County Pioneer Association are both held in June at the Dayton Fairgrounds. In Dayton is a junction with a graveled road leading east, the Eckler Mountain Road. Left on this road along a draw between rolling fields of alfalfa and wheat to a plateau, which rises gently toward the south. Spreading left of the road is
Patit Creek Valley, and the valley of the North Fork of the Touchet River on the right. A boundary of the UMATILLA NATIONAL FOREST, 18 m., marks the beginning of the Mountain Skyline, or Skyview, Road (open June to September). The road ascends steadily with many undulations and curves through woods of pine, fir, and tamarack to the backbone of the Blue Mountains. Far below, to the left, the little Tucannon River ripples and tumbles over gravelly shallows and rocky ledges. At 14.8 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right from the junction the road swings due south and runs along the crest of the divide to Godman Spr1ngs and the Godman Spr1ngs Ranger Stat1on, 28 m. (5,740 alt.). Copious springs issuing from the side of the mountains near the camp form the headwaters of Punjab Creek. At Godman Springs is a junction with a forest road. (1) L. here 3.5 m. to Teepee Camp (picnic facilities; spring water) at the foot of the Oregon Buttes. (2) R. here 0.3 m. on another forest road to a vantage point for a mag- nificent view. Southwest are the Wallowa Mountains and toward the east the Seven Devils' Peaks in Idaho, some 40 miles away. In the foreground lies the rugged Butte Creek and Crooked Fork country as it was when Indians tracked deer and bear through its forests or caught mink and beaver along its water courses. As it ascends toward the divide the Skyline Road skirts the heads of deep canyons and runs along shelves on the precipitous hillsides sprinkled with yellow pine, Engelmann spruce, and Douglas fir. In some places the divide is so sharp that the road seems to lie precariously on the very top. Here are the headwaters of streams flowing both north and south but all eventually tributary to the Snake River. At 31.3 m. is a junction with another forest road: R. here 5 m. to the Twin Buttes region and the end of the road. Stayawh1le Spr1ngs, 31.5 m., lies in a pleasant dell at the base of Buck Ridge, in the heart of the Blue Mountains. Deer, elk, and upland birds are plentiful, and some of the land has been set aside as protected areas. From Stayawhile Springs the road cuts back across the main ridge of the Blue Moun- tains, circling the base of TABLE ROCK, and then climbs to Table Rock Forest Camp (6,310 alt.), 43 m. So narrow is the summit of the mountain ridge that at certain points the rolling wheatlands can be seen stretching northwest- ward toward the Cascades 200 miles away, while on the south, seemingly at the very foot of Table Rock, lie the wilderness gorges of the Grande Ronde and Wallowa valleys between the snow-topped peaks of the Wallowa Mountains. At 46 m. the Mountain Skyline Road crosses the OREGON LINE, 27 m. north of Tollgate. Once the hilly terrain south of Dayton was covered with bunchgrass, but with the discovery that heavy yields of wheat and barley could be grown on these benchlands, all but the steepest hillsides were put under cultivation. Soon both wind and water erosion began to take their toll. Deep gullies began to appear, and during the spring freshets every little rivulet carried away part of the fine top soil. Today most farmers, aided by the various State and Federal conservation agencies, have adopted farming techniques that are reducing the amount of soil loss due to erosion. Discing, which mixes stubble with the soil, is supplementing plowing; strip farming reduces wind erosion; contour cultivation slows up drainage and conserves both soil and water. Gully erosion has been checked by planting grass, alfalfa, and clover on vulnerable slopes; these crops either are used for forage or plowed under
to add humus to the soil. Steep slopes and possible water courses are not cultivated. LEWIS AND CLARK TRAIL STATE PARK (camping facili- ties), 74.7 m., is a 50-acre, partially improved tract adjacent to the highway and the Touchet River. It is marked by a grove of stately pines, the only grove of its kind in the valley. Here Lewis and Clark's expedition camped in 1806 on its return trip. HUNTSVILLE, 76.4 m. (1,350 alt., 150 pop.), founded by the United Brethren Society in 1878-9, once had dreams of becoming an important center of industry and education. A flour mill, the second in the valley, was erected, and when the town was platted, a college, the Washington Institute, was projected. An ephemeral boom, marked by considerable expansion and the opening of the college, collapsed before the close of the century. At present Huntsville is a wheat-shipping point. WAITSBURG, 79.3 m. (1,272 alt., 936 pop.), a pleasant old town with shaded streets, lies on the miniature delta formed by the Touchet River and Copper Creek. In 1859 Robert Kennedy settled here; a few miles away on Copper Creek, a settlement was started, and in 1861 a tiny sawmill was built there. In 1865 a few small buildings were erected on the site of Waitsburg, then called Delta. Sylvester M. Wait, recognizing the power possibilities of the Touchet River, and noting that flour was selling for $44 a barrel, decided to build a flour mill. Farmers donated land for the mill and agreed to hold their grain until spring, at which time Wait was to pay $1.50 a bushel. They were pleased with this arrangement, which eliminated the cost of wheat shipments to Walla Walla. The enterprise was successful, and the town, platted in 1869 and named Waitsburg, prospered in spite of occasional setbacks. In 1881 the Oregon Railroad and Navigation Company extended its lines into Waitsburg, and in the same year the first municipal govern- ment was organized. Churches and a school were organized, streets were improved, new stores were started, and a bank was opened. The milling industry steadily expanded as population figures rose and wheat acreage increased. Among those who settled in the environs during these years were a number of Southerners. Names such as Sorghum Hollow, Whiskey, Whetstone, Hogeye, Misery, and Whoopemup still cling to roads and creeks and mountain peaks. Situated in one of the most fertile farming regions in Washington, Waitsburg today as in earlier years depends upon wheat for its income. Annually more than 1,000,000 bushels are shipped from the town. Three flour mills are in operation, including the one established by Wait, which has been in continuous service since 1865. Hundreds of carloads of apples are also exported each year. The Days of Real Sport, sponsored by the Waitsburg Racing Asso- ciation, is a popular celebration held annually in late spring. The local track, one of the best east of the Cascades, is used as a proving ground for race horses, some being brought from as far away as California.
South of Waitsburg US 410 continues through rolling wheat lands, where crop failures are seldom known. A deep rich soil, a sufficiency of moisture during the growing months, and the absence of rain during the harvest season practically guarantee an average of from 25 to 40 bushels an acre. Many kinds of birds are found in this region south of the Snake River. Early in spring the chickadee and the grosbeak awaken the woods with their excited chatter, the robin's whistle is heard in budding orchards, the mountain bluebird appears on fence posts and ridge poles, and the lark trills from the meadows. Every day the bird population grows, as swallows, blackbirds, sparrows, orioles, goldfinches, thrushes, mourning doves, and kingbirds arrive. Magpies shriek from clumps of trees, crows fly noisily by, woodpeckers begin to beat their tattoos, and hawks soar overhead. Game birds, too, are plentiful, especially ring- necked pheasants, quail, and grouse. Only during the severest winter weather are the fields and woods practically deserted. DIXIE, 89.4 m. (1.606 alt., 200 pop.), began in the sixties when the three Kershaw brothers, who danced and played and sang their way across the Plains to the tune of Dixie, settled here at the confluence of Mud and Dry Creeks. The crossing at this point soon came to be known as Dixie Crossing. Today it is an attractive little town. Southwest of Dixie the slopes become less steep; and wide, far-flung valleys hemmed in by gently rolling hills alternate with expanses of level fields, as US 410 descends into the Walla Walla Valley. Here the Walla Walla (Ind. little river people) fished in the many streams, pastured their ponies on the bunchgrass and wild rye, and hunted in the foothills of the Blue Mountains to the south. At first, settlers farmed the lowlands only, but after the discovery that the benchlands would produce good crops of grain, cultivation was rapidly extended. Walla Walla A1rport, 97.3 m., borders on the highway. WALLA WALLA, 100.6 m. (975 alt., 18,709 pop.), (see Walla Walla). West of Walla Walla US 410 traverses a broad flat crisscrossed by the Walla Walla River and its tributaries. This area is a veritable garden producing many crops; asparagus, peas, onions, potatoes, and other vegetables; apples, peaches, pears, and Italian prunes; alfalfa hay, and wool. The vegetation of the Walla Walla country is varied and colorful. Drier sections are covered with rabbit bush and sagebrush. Along the watercourses are clumps of willows and cottonwoods, interspersed with chokecherry, serviceberry, and elderberry bushes. In the late spring the arid dunes are brightened by the rose-colored sand dock, and the low uncultivated hills are covered with grama grass, or bunch grass, and lupine; the stream banks are yellow and purple with buttercups, yellow bells, honeysuckle, shooting stars, and purple grasswidows. At 106.7 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here, 0.5 m. to a junction with a dirt road: R. on the dirt road 0.4 m. to the entrance of WHITMAN MEMORIAL PARK, site of the Waiilatpu (Ind.
place of the rye grass) Mission. A group of graves and a large crypt sealed, with a massive block of stone mark the burial place of the pioneer missionaries. A flight of steps and a winding road lead to the crest of the hill, where a tall shaft has been erected. In 1836 Marcus Whitman constructed a crude cabin of cottonwood logs on the right bank of the Walla Walla River, at Waiilatpu, near the mouth of Mill Creek. The larger buildings of the mission soon rose alongside. Myron F. Eells, a missionary from Massachusetts who visited the mission in 1838, de- scribed it thus: "It was built of adobe, mud dried in the form of bricks, only larger—there are doors and windows of the roughest material, the boards being sawed by hand and put together by no carpenter, but by one who knows nothing about the work. There are a number of wheat, corn and potato fields about the house, besides a garden of melons and all kinds of vegetables common to a garden. There are no fences, there being no timber with which to make them. The furniture is very primitive; the bedsteads are boards nailed to the sides of the house, sink fashion; then some blankets and husks make the bed." The mission buildings and grounds are in process of restoration as an historic site, under the auspices of Whitman Centennial, Inc., a Walla Walla organization. At 109.6 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right here 0.6 m. to a path: L. here 0.2 m. through fields to an Indian cemetery and the neglected grave of Chief Peu-Peu-Mox-Mox, who was killed here in a fight between the Oregon Volunteers and the Walla Walla. The wooden cross that once marked his grave has fallen to the ground. LOWDEN, 113.5 m. (490 alt., 250 pop.), was one of the first farm sites in the valley of the Walla Walla. A general store and a large grain warehouse stand by the highway. To the south the Umatilla Highlands loom in the distance. Left from Lowden, 1.5 m. to a geologically interesting ARTIFICIAL CAN- YON. In the spring'of 1926, when the water of the Burlingame Irrigation Ditch was diverted for one week into a diversion channel, a miniature grand canyon, in places 100 feet wide and 100 feet deep, was created; thousands of tons of silt were carried to the Columbia. In the walls of this gully, the stratified de- posits of an ancient lake bed may be advantageously studied. Deep-well drilling in artesian basins has revealed that this region was occupied in succession by four lakes. That the earliest antedated the uplift of the Cascades is shown by the blue clay deposits characteristic of the pre-Cascadian period, and character- istic granite boulders indicate that the last lake existed in the Glacial period. At 117.9 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left on this road, which crosses the railroad track, is the lively little town of TOUCHET, 0.3 m. (441 alt., 500 pop.), at the confluence of the Touchet River and the Walla Walla. Lewis and Clark named the main Touchet River "White Stallion," but by the time the town was platted April ta, 1884, the name Touchet was generally accepted. In the period of prairie schooners, road agents, and Indians, numerous stage lines carrying mail followed this route. One line oper- ated between The Dalles and Walla Walla; the Thomas line ran from Wallula to Boise by way of the Woodward toll road and Walla Walla. In 1864 the great transcontinental stage lines of Ben Holladay, who later became one of the West's foremost railroad builders, were extended into this territory. West of Touchet the walls of the valley seem to close in upon the highway. Here the trees and bushes, so familiar along the upper Walla Walla, gradually disappear; rolling, sage-covered hills are crisscrossed by jack-rabbit trails on both sides of the road, and the wind whips tumbleweeds into roadside ditches.
The Walla Walla & Columbia, one of the earliest railroads in the Territory, once ran along this route. Begun in 1872, the old road was a monument to the perseverance of Dr. D. S. Baker, its builder, who, in spite of general ridicule, laid the tracks that were later purchased by a transcontinental line. Part of its train crew was a collie dog that ran ahead of the train to drive cattle from the right-of-way. At 130.5 m. US 410 forms a junction with US 395-730. Left from the junction, following along the east bank of Columbia River, US 395-730 enters Columbia Gap. Bold escarpments of rock, with palisades higher than those of the Hudson River, attest the force of the current. Beyond, a vast plain extends southeast to the line of the Blue Mountains. The highway crosses the OREGON LINE, 6.5 m., about ten miles north of Cold Springs, Oregon, and continues over a scenic route along the Columbia River to Portland. US 410, identical for a short distance with US 395, swings north- ward across the Madame Dor1on Br1dge over the Walla Walla River, named in honor of Marie Dorion, a member of the Overland Astorians of 1811-12. At 130.7 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left on this road to WALLULA (Ind. abundance of water) 0.4 m. (324 alt., 160 pop.), a hamlet surrounded by sagebrush and sand, about one-half mile from the confluence of the Columbia and the Walla Walla Rivers. Little remains to suggest the importance of this spot in the early days. As a junction point for Dr. D. S. Baker's railroad, numerous stage lines, and river boats operating up and down the Columbia and the Snake Rivers, Wallula was a rough-and- ready town. Teamsters, miners, crews cutting wood for the boilers of river boats, and cattlemen, all made it a stopping place. The town was platted by J. M. Vansycle and S. W. Tatem in 1882, and for two decades (until the coming of the Oregon-Washington and Union Pacific railroads in 1882) the town pursued a wild career. Today Wallula is a railroad junction point. Eight railroad tracks_ run through the town, and lines of cars stand on sidings, many of them ice refrigerator cars, or "reefers." A railroad ice house, with long platforms above the tracks, is equipped to ice 40 cars simultaneously. Left 0.4 m. from Wallula on a bituminous-surfaced road to a junction with a similar road: L. here to a junction with a graveled road: L. (straight ahead) at 0.9 m., the embankment of Baker's "Rawhide Railroad" may still be seen. At 1 m. is all that remains of Old Fort Walla Walla, huge foundation stones tracing the lines of the old structure. First called Fort Nez Perce and later Fort Walla Walla, it was built in 1817-18 by Alexander Ross and Donald McKenzie of the North West Fur Company. In 1817 a brigade of 86 men left Oregon for the "upper country" with orders to build a fort and trading post at some point near the confluence of the Snake and Columbia Rivers. It was to be a convenient stopping place between Fort Vancouver and points north and east of the Columbia River. One hundred feet square, the fort was surrounded by an outer wall of whip- sawed planks 30 inches wide, 6 inches thick, and 20 feet long. A_ balustrade, 4 feet high, was provided with loopholes and slide doors. A gallery inside enabled a guard to pace the wall and keep an eye on the surrounding territory. The houses, one of stone, the others of driftwood, were inside this wall. At the corners were water tanks to be used in case of fire. Indians were compelled to transact their trading from the outside at a small window. When rebuilt in 1843 after a fire, adobe took the place of timber. US 410 traverses desolate sand heaps on a flat stretching between the Columbia River and the basin lands to the east.
At 133.4 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left on this road is ATTALIA, 0.4 m. (356 alt., 50 pop.), a junction of the Northern Pacific Railway and the Oregon-Washington Railway and Navigation Company line. Of a once prosperous community, only a few buildings remain among scattered dying trees. The town was named for a little hamlet in Italy. TWO RIVERS, 136.4 m. (600 alt., 50 pop.), lies amid sand dunes partially overgrown with sagebrush and bunch grass. Fifteen years ago this area was dotted with orchards and gardens, irrigated by water pumped from the Snake River through ditches. The expense proved too great, farmers could not pay their water bills, and the company went bankrupt. All that remains are a few weed-filled gullies, once irrigation ditches. US 410 cuts through BURBANK, 141 m. (354 alt., 160 pop.), formerly a center of the irrigated area, and crosses the Snake R1ver Br1dge, 144 m. The broad, shallow mouth does not suggest the river's deeply eroded upper reaches. The greenish-gray water blends into the bleak wastes of sand, the sagebrush, and the white-streaked alkali plains. The confluence of the Snake and the Columbia Rivers, a half- mile away, can be seen from the bridge. Along the Snake River on the east and the Columbia on the west are tracts irrigated by means of pumping plants. High-grade fruits, berries, and vegetables are raised on these small farms. At 144.5 m. is a junction with an improved road. Left here to SACAJAWEA STATE PARK, 1.8 m., a ten-acre tract at the confluence of the Snake and Columbia Rivers, established in 1926. The land was donated to the State by the city of Pasco. The name of the park commemorates Sacajawea, the Indian woman who guided the Lewis and Clark expedition through the Rocky Mountains to the lower Snake River country. In PASCO, 148 m. (378 alt., 3,913 pop.), (see Tour 6), is a junction with US 395 (see Tour 6). Section b. PASCO to YAKIMA, 87.4 m. US 410 This section of the tour crosses an arid district with numerous towns, born of the coming of the railroads in the eighties and, by the intro- duction of irrigation at the turn of the century, developed into rich agricultural centers. The highway curves northward through grain, hop, and alfalfa fields, broad fruit orchards, truck gardens, and dairy ranches, some of the earliest specialized farms in the State. West of PASCO, 0 m., US 410 crosses the COLUMBIA RIVER, 0.8 m„ on the Inter-county Bridge connecting the two cities which, like two children of some western tribe, have grown up in the desert together. Kennewick and Pasco lie in a depression, created during the geologic period when the Cascades and the Okanogan Highlands were elevated and the entire plateau of eastern Washington altered. KENNEWICK (Ind. winter paradise), 2 m. (355 alt., 1,918 pop.), a compact little city in the middle of fertile lands and orchards, was a bunchgrass waste until platted by the Northern Pacific Irrigation Company in 1892. The Yakima Irrigation and Improvement Company
later boomed the town by importing settlers from the Middle West and the Mississippi Valley. The business district is fronted by brick stores that date back to 1907, the time of the town's first boom. Large grain elevators sprawl along the railroad track. The Twin Cities Creamery is an important concern. The region around Kennewick, with its brief winter season, is the best grape-growing area in the State. The Church Grape Juice Com- pany maintains here its main office, a factory and bottling works, and probably the largest private Concord vineyard in the United States. Cherries, also, are an important crop; 25 per cent of all the cherries shipped in the State are shipped from here. A rodeo is held annually during Fourth of July week in conjunction with the three-day Pioneer Reunion. West of Kennewick, US 410 traverses an area of sagebrush, berry fields, alfalfa farms, and orchards, between networks of irrigation flumes and ditches. The wide reaches of the Columbia River are visible. At 6.6 m. is a junction with an oil-surfaced road. Right on this road, which crosses a flat farming country alongside the Columbia, is RICHLAND, 3.8 m. (390 alt., 247 pop.), one of the irrigation boom towns that has settled into a farming community. An important annual event is the Old Time Picnic, held the last part of July. A haze appearing at certain times over this section is, according to Indian tradition, smoke from the camp of departed warriors and chiefs, who have come back to earth for a short sojourn. Old tribesmen say they have seen their shadowy forms performing ceremonial dances around campfires and corn- shock tepees. Many Indian relics have been found on a near-by island and along the shores of the Columbia. Indians in the vicinity still, according to custom, bury personal belongings with the dead; for tobacco users, a small supply of tobacco is provided so that the departed may smoke in the hereafter. West of the junction US 410 continues along the south bank of the Yakima River. In this area of sagebrush and coulee, geese and ducks remain all winter, offering excellent sport for hunters. Cottontails, jack rabbits, Chinese pheasants, and the sage hen are elusive targets. The young sage hen is delicious when cooked, but a venerable member of the species tastes like the sagebrush on which it feeds. A high railroad embankment divides KIONA (Ind. brown hills), 19.9 m. (514 alt., 50 pop.), into two strikingly contrasting sections. Scattered on the hillside above the tracks between the station house and a large group of sheep pens, old weatherbeaten structures are framed against a background of desolate, sage-covered desert. Below the hill the buildings are sprucely painted, the houses are neat, and a few trees are growing. Originally the town was named Horseshoe Bend, for the bend in the Yakima River at this point. In Kiona is a junction with a dirt road. Right on this road to BENTON CITY, 2 m. (490 alt., 150 pop.), settled in 1909. The town was named for Benton S. Grosscup, who was active in securing separation of Benton County from Yakima County. West of Kiona, US 410, following the Yakima River, climbs along the northern slope of the Horse Heaven Hills (see Tour 7b), where
sheep and cattle find good grazing grounds. At night will-o-the-wisps are frequent along this bleak and lonely road. Flame-colored, and about three feet above the ground, they are often mistaken by motorists for a single vehicular light. Sternly realistic farmers, their hands still smarting from the handle of a plow, have reported "balls of fire" coming down the road at the speed of an automobile. During dust storms, which are frequent in this area, tumbleweeds roll over rounded hills and dance across the highway. At 34.2 m. is the Valley Evaporat1ng Company Plant, where fruit is dehydrated. Passing through a viaduct of the Northern Pacific, the highway reaches PROSSER, 35 m. (661 alt., 1,719 pop.), largest city and seat of Benton County, and a shipping point for cattle and sheep. On the bank of the Yakima River, with the Horse Heaven Hills rising behind it toward the south, Prosser is a solidly built little town, with a busy flour mill and dehydrating plant. An annual event is States' Day, held early in December, originally an occasion for assembling of emigrants from eastern parts of the United States. In years before white men came, the Indians camped here at Tap-Tap Falls during the salmon runs, and near here James Kinney made the first permanent settlement in 1880, filing for a homestead at "Tap-Tap Falls." The site was also known as Yakima Falls. Two years later Kinney was joined by Colonel William Prosser, who opened a trading store for the scattered ranchmen and crews of the railroad building through at that time. The settlement was renamed Prosser Falls in 1883, and later "Falls" was dropped from the name. The advent of the Northern Pacific, and subsequent development of the power site at Tap-Tap Falls between 1890-4, lent impetus to the town's growth. A new county courthouse was built in 1926 at a cost of $100,000. In Prosser C1ty Park, between 7th and 9th Sts. and Prosser and Yakima Aves., is a petrified sequoia taken from a hillside south of the city in 1925. Some million years ago, this species of tree, which is found now only in California, also grew over a part of the Northwest. There is a public Sw1mm1ng Pool (open May 30-Sept 10) in the park. The Prosser Flour1ng M1ll (open by arrangement 8-4. weekdays), 10th St. and Grand Ave., beside the Yakima River, is one of the few remaining flour mills in the State operated by waterpower. Started in 1887, the mill was improved in 1890 and has operated continuously ever since. A low dam and a break in the river bed combine to make a small falls, which creates a nine-foot head of water. In Carneg1e Publ1c L1brary [open 2-5; 7-9 weekdays), Sherman Ave. between 6th and 7th Sts., is the city's most cherished possession: a first edition of the three-volume biography of Abraham Lincoln, by William H. Herndon (his law partner for 20 years) and J. W. Weik. The book, published by Clarke and Company, Chicago, in 1889, was suppressed and is now a valuable item. In Prosser is a junction of US 410 and State 3-A, which follows the
UNDERCUTTING A FIR
LOGGING OPERATIONS AT A LOADING STATION ON THE OLYMPIC PENINSULA TRACTORS ARE USED FOR HAULING LOGS THROUGH THE FOREST Photograph courtesy of Western Tractor and Equipment Company
Photograph by Rothslein; couriesy of Farm Secur1ty Adm. WASHINGTON LOGS BEFORE SAWING IN A LONGVIEW MILL SAWMILL IN THE EOREST Photograph courtesy of Caterpillar Tractor Company
LUMBERYARD ºź， £2-2£·，..…
Photograph courtesy of Longview Chamber of Commerce AIRVIEW, LUMBER MILL AT LONGVIEW AIRVIEW OF LUMBER PLANT ALONG LAKE WASHINGTON SHIP CANAL, SEATTLE Photograph by Frank Jacobs
（Pete (talk) 21:53, 8 July 2022 (UTC) | ~ Pete (talk) 21:53, 8 July 2022 (UTC) rvice The old photographs on these pages are reproduced through courtesy of the U. S. Forest Se OxEN DRAGGING LOGOVER SKID ROAD THROUGH FOREST YARDING DONKEY
- - - Photograph courtesy of U. S. Forest Service Photograph by Gifford Pinchot A FOREST HOMESTEAD (1910) MAIN STREET, MONTE CRISTO (1897) TRAINLOAD OF LOGS ON WOODEN TRESTLE - - Photograph by Gifford and Prentiss, Portland, Oregon - - - - - - - - -
CUTOVER LAND - CCC BOYS WEEDING A FOREST NURSERY courtesy of Civilian Conservation Corps Photograph - - - |
Yakima River through a productive farming area in an alternate route to UNION GAP, where it again forms a junction with US 410. US 410 leaves Prosser on 6th St. and swings across a concrete bridge spanning the Yakima toward the northwest. Along the river, extend- ing in both directions from the bridge, are the Yakima River Game Preserves, for the protection of quail, duck, and pheasant. This is a flat country, where farmers' hay derricks tilt over neatly piled hay- stacks. The highway passes the Prosser Airport, 35.9 m., and crosses an irrigation ditch. GRANDVIEW, 43.2 m. (811 alt., 1,449 pop.), a city with wide, well-lighted and paved streets, was founded in 1906, during the whole- sale town-building and real-estate promotion era. Division Street, the main business thoroughfare, is bounded on either side by substantial, two-story business buildings. There are few frame structures. The snow-capped volcanic peaks of Mount Adams and Mount Rainier are signal points in the view for which the town was named. Benefited by the Yakima Irrigation Project, Grandview is the second most im- portant shipping point in the Yakima Valley for fruit, alfalfa, sugar beets, garden truck, and dairy products. The Grandv1ew C1ty Parks, on E. C and 3rd Sts., in the east side of town and on W.,2nd and W. G Sts. in the west, are provided with wading pools and recreational equipment. The west side park has, in addition, an open gas stove and picnic facilities. The Athlet1c F1eld has a seating capacity of 500 and lighting facilities that make possible night athletic contests. The Publ1c L1brary (open 2-5, 7-9; Tues., Thurs., Sat.), in Town Hall, corner W. A and 2nd Sts., has a collection of 4,000 volumes, of which 27 volumes on The Union and Confederate Navies in the War of the Rebellion, official records, are of special interest. On E. 4th St. along the railroad tracks is the Wash1ngton Dehy- drat1ng Foods, Inc. plant ( visitors by appointment), where inter- esting processes in the drying of fruits and vegetables may be observed. Two other important plants are the Grandv1ew Cold Storage Plant, W. B St. and S. 4th St., and the B1g Y. Storage Plant outside the city limits. The Grandview Harvest Festival, held early each September, fea- tures farm and orchard exhibits, a flower show, a parade, a horse show, 4-H Club contests, and handicraft exhibits. In 1938 more than 12,000 persons watched the parade. SUNNYSIDE, (cabin camps), 51 m. (747 alt., 2,368 pop.), is walled by the Horse Heaven Hills and surrounded by valleys checkered with farms and orchards. This arid region attracted the attention of land promoters in 1893. Walter N. Granger, president of the newly formed Sunnyside Canal Company, named the town in 1893 and opened the first store in January 1894. By the middle of that year the town was given a post office, and a stage connected it with Mabton. Aiding in the development of the town was the Christian Co-opera- tive Movement, sponsored by a branch of the Dunkard Church, and
organized under the leadership of S. J. Harrison, Christian Rowland, and H. M. Lichty in 1898. The co-operatives made a large settlement and, in 1901, established their own telephone system; the next year a bank was formed, and an election for incorporation was held. Several years earlier, the Sunnyside Canal Company, headed by Walter N. Granger, had purchased much of the land in the region and had begun its reclamation by irrigation. The Sunnyside Land and In- vestment Company (still operating) was founded in the early 1900's. The town was chartered in 1904, the same year the Northern Pacific Railway extended its lines into the town. In 1905 the United States Reclamation Service took over the Sunnyside Irrigation Project, one of the first in the State. Most of the early inhabitants were farmers who were attracted by the religious basis of the new community, as well as by the agricultural possibilities of the irrigated region. Recently a number of families fled the Middlewestern drought and came to Sunnyside. These new settlers are learning the technique of irrigation farming. Seventy-five other fam- ilies have come to Sunnyside from the same district in South Dakota as did the original co-operative colony. With the influx of drought victims a difficult housing situation was created; in some cases two families are crowded into one small cabin, barely large enough for two persons. Asparagus and tomatoes are the most important products grown on the rich soil of the irrigated farm plots that surround Sunnyside. There are also vineyards, orchards, and dairy farms in the vicinity. Two wineries, a warehouse for sugar beets, a vegetable-packing plant, and a storage plant are among the major economic assets of the town. The Roza Irrigation Development is giving added impetus to agricultural enterprise in the valley. Among impressive buildings in the wide business district are the new American Legion Hall and the new Federal Post Office Building. In Sunnyside C1ty Park, 3rd St. and Grant Ave., a 40-piece high school band gives a concert each Friday night during the summer months. For a time known as the "Holy City," Sunnyside has 22 churches. The major religious denomination is the Zionist. The city's charter provides that no saloon is to be maintained and no hard liquor is to be sold within the city limits, and the State Liquor Store is located beyond the boundary line. Paradoxically, Sunnyside taverns sell some of the largest 10c glasses of beer in the State. The M1lk Products Company Plant (open 8-5 workdays), W. Edison Ave. and 6th St., housed in a concrete building, employs modern methods to produce butter, milk powder, and casein. In manufacturing milk powder, the milk is separated from the cream, which is used for butter, and is heated in vacuum pans to 126° F., when it boils. Under pressure of 3,000 pounds to the square inch, the milk passes through spray disks into a chamber, where it is heated to 3000 F.; the solids instantly dry and fall in the form of powder, which is then sifted and bolted in much the same way as is flour. The coarser type of powder
produced is sold as animal food; the finer quality is used by bakeries and ice cream manufacturers. An annual event is the Sunnyside Fete Day, which was held for the nineteenth consecutive year in June 1940. High points of the fete were the flower show, soap-box derby, gas-model airplane contest, night pageant, and street dance carnival. North from Sunnyside US 410 makes an abrupt turn westward, pene- trating flat country with rounded hills in the background. Farther east, irrigation canals line both sides of the road. GRANGER, 60.1 m. (731 alt., 752 pop.), founded in 1902, was also named by Walter N. Granger, of the Sunnyside Canal Company. The town, situated in a flat valley, is the center of a dairying and live- stock area. Three or four crops of alfalfa are shipped from here an- nually. Granger achieved notoriety in 1936, when an enterprising justice of the peace announced a price of only 39c for performing weddings. The justice, who lives in a junction gas station, still maintains the reduce^ ftlarriage rate. The*VAk1MA Valley Academy, on the southern edge of town, a boarding school maintained by the Seventh-Day Adventist Church, is housed in a three-story brick building. The H1slop Sheep Pens, Alfalfa Ave., and N. 1st St., in a com- pact, intricate, but orderly arrangement, are surrounded by a sweeping circle of towering haystacks, topped by roofs but open at the sides. Here lambs purchased in the spring are housed and fed until the following spring, when the sheep are ready to be clipped for wool and sold for mutton. Northwest of Granger US 410 passes sheep ranches and productive orchards. The road parallels the Yakima, and a few miles from town a steep canyon looms, where the river has cut deep into the rocks. ZILLAH, 66.4 m. (821 alt., 802 pop.), is another town developed by irrigation and promoted and named by Granger. Rows of ware- houses and packing sheds are strung along the railroad tracks paralleling the highway. Apples, cherries, and peaches are packed here, and the Mount Arbor Nursery maintains its Yakima Valley branch in Zillah. The Zillah Community Picnic is held annually in mid-June. The Vix Air Circulation Company's plant, near the town, manu- factures a large fan, which is used as a frost expeller in the orchards, as a cherry-tree drier, and as an air circulator for refrigerator cars when they are loading. North of Zillah, US 410 climbs up a steep grade and into the central valley of the Yakima. At BUENA, 70.6 m. (785 alt., 400 pop.), another Yakima Valley fruit-shipping base, is a junction with US 97 (see Tour yb). At 73.0 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left here 0.2 m. across railroad tracks to the Mattoon Sawyer Cab1n, one of the earliest types of cabin. The little two-room house is built of peeled cotton- wood logs, chinked with white clay. In 1884, the year he was appointed farm
instructor for the Indians at Fort Simcoe, J. P. Mattoon built the cabin, one of the first in the valley. In SAWYER, 73.4 m. (827 alt., 50 pop.), is a large red-tile ware- house of the Yakima Fruit Growers' Association. At 75.6 m. is a junction with a concrete-surfaced road. Left on this road across a bridge to DONALD, 0.2 m. (875 alt., 101 pop.), a small fruit-packing center; and across a second bridge to WAPATO, 2.2 m. (875 alt., 1,4.83 pop.), a potato-shipping base. North of the junction US 410 follows the curve of the river, lined with balsam and cottonwood trees. Sagebrush struggles for existence above the irrigation ditches. Beyond are farms, orchards, and prairies hedged about by blue-brown hills. Irrigation in the Yakima Valley is entirely independent of the rain- fall. Water is controlled by a simple gate and delivered by canal to the highest points on farms, whence it flows to the furrowed fields. Four crops of alfalfa mature annually in this region, and the cutover fields afford successive pasture areas. Another abundant crop is the pear. The trees are almost hidden by supporting poles, necessary to prevent the boughs from breaking under the heavy burden of fruit. Strawberries, asparagus, potatoes, rhubarb, tomatoes, and other fruits and vegetables thrive under irrigation. A profitable adjunct to the larger alfalfa fields is the dairying industry, and the blooms of the orchards and alfalfa fields supply hundreds of apiaries. An irrigation canal intake, 78.5 m., a dam across the Yakima River, is part of the Sunnyside Canal, which runs nearly 80 miles south to Prosser. It is filled with water from March to September. At 82.3 m. is the junction with State 3-A, bituminous-surfaced road. Left on this road 0.3 m. to a huge boulder of basalt weighing seven tons, placed by the D.A.R. to commemorate the victory won by the United States troops over the Yakima tribe on November 9, 1855. Another monument a short distance away was erected in 1917 by the Yakima Indians and their friends, to commemorate a Yakima noncombatant, who was killed by a Government scout, an Indian, in the war of 1855-6. In 1855 troops under Major Rains entered the Yakima Valley to quell an uprising led by Kamiakin, chief of the Yakima. When the troops opened fire with howitzers, the natives retreated across Ahtanum Creek to the present site of Yakima and into Naches Canyon. Kamiakin fled to the Columbia River and disappeared. The highway, curving eastward, crosses the Yakima River and reaches the narrow gap between Rattlesnake and Ahtanum ridges where the Battle of Two Buttes ended. This was an important engagement in the Yakima War, 1855-6. UNION GAP, 82.4 m. (930 alt., 976 pop.), once fought a losing battle with a great railroad. When, after many delays the Northern Pacific Railroad built through the valley in 1884, Union Gap (then known as Yakima C1ty) refused to make concessions for terminals. The railroad deliberately created a new town four miles to the north, which was called North Yakima; most of the old town moved to the new settlement.
North of Union Gap the road skirts brown hills, which overlook the valley of Ahtanum Creek. Irrigation ditches line both sides of the road. Entering Yakima, US 410 continues straight ahead on S. 1st to Yakima Ave., the city center. YAKIMA, 87.4 m. (1,067 alt., 27,221 pop.), (see Yakima). Left from 1st St. on WV Yakima Ave. to 10th Ave., L. here to Nob Hill Blvd.; R. on Nob Hill Blvd., which becomes Ahtanum Blvd., a concrete highway. AHTANUM (1,250 alt., 165 pop.) is at 8.4 m. on this road, on the edge of the Yakima Indian Reservation and the Ahtanum Creek. The hills of Ahta- num Ridge on the south justify the Indian meaning of the name, "creek by the long mountain." In striking contrast to the new brick buildings of Ahtanum is a ramshackle old blacksmith shop. On the sign in large bold letters is the word "Black- smithing"; in somewhat smaller letters, "Horseshoeing"; and at the bottom in tiny letters, "Auto Repairing." The varying emphasis seems to express the owner's grudging concession to modern industrial civilization. Across the road from the blacksmith shop are the remains of weatherbeaten Old Woodcock Academy, a three-story structure erected in 1892. WILEY CITY, 10.2 m. (1,325 alt., 851 pop.), a junction point, was named by Wallace Wiley in 1910 for his father, Hugh Wiley, pioneer, upon whose homestead the town was built. At 16.5 m. is St. Joseph's M1ss1on, established in 1847 by the Jesuit fathers. During the Indian Wars of 1855-6, soldiers under Major G. J. Rains, finding the mission deserted and a keg of powder buried in the mission garden, burned the building to the ground, believing that the missionaries were in sympathy with the Indians. The mission was rebuilt in 1872 and stands today in a fair state of preservation, an interesting example of mortise and tenon work of the period. The mission served as a center for settlers coming into the country, and today the Reclamation Service is carrying on soil conservation projects in the vicinity. Section c. YAKIMA to OLYMPIA, 177.4 m. US 410 In YAKIMA, 0 m., US 410 follows N. 1st to N. Walnut Ave., the junction with US 97 (see Tour 7b), bears L. from the junction to N. 5th Ave., and R. on N. 5th. West of Yakima, the highway follows a slight incline through the orchards of the Naches River Valley. Brown, rock-cleft hills rise grad- ually toward the Cascade Mountains. At 5 771. is a junction with a bituminous-surfaced road, known locally as the South Naches River Road. Left on this road along the south side of the Naches River, splashing noisily beneath a canopy of cottonwoods and aspens, to a junction with a trail, 0.1 m.; R. on trail by foot for 50 feet to the base of a basalt cliff. The Ind1an Pa1ntings on the rock wall are very old; legends of the Yakima say they were there before the tribes came to live in this land. West from the trail junction is Eschback Park (adm. 25c; boating, swimming, and picnicking facilities), 2.5 m. The South Naches River Road continues into Naches to the junction with US 410 at 12 m. US 410 continues its westward climb, flanked by sienna-colored hills with a mottled nap of gray-green sagebrush and glistening bunchgrass. Isolated masses of black lava scar the gentle slopes. A Hydroelectr1c Plant, 11.1 m., stands R. from the highway, its spillway emptying into the river.
At 13.8 m. is a junction with a concrete-paved road. Right on this road to NACHES, 0.1 m. (1,817 alt-, 536 pop.), a bustling town with a small, compact business district. Naches began to grow in 1908 when valley farmers, aided by the Federal Government, started the irrigation system. Two apple-packing plants and a small sawmill, which cuts box shooks from yellow pine, are the economic backbone of the town. One of the packing estab- lishments, a million-dollar concern employing 250 men and women seasonally, is owned and operated by Horticultural Union Local 21. West of the junction, US 410 leaves the bronzed, grass-tufted hills and runs close along the Naches River, almost hidden by the timbered mountains. The Naches Valley narrows to a canyon between towering cliffs of somewhat porous stone, folded and faulted into spire-like forms and palisades. Time-etched rocks project like gargoyles from the canyon walls; porous layers of lava, broken up by moisture and frost, present many color variations. At 18.4 m. is a junction with State 5, a bituminous-surfaced road, which is the eastern part of the projected highway over White Pass. Left on this road, which follows the Tieton River through Tieton Canyon with its bizarre formations, massive rocks, and rocky columns, to T1eton Dam, 20 m., known also as Rimrock Dam. This earth-filled irrigation dam is 220 feet high. Water, flowing eastward from the many lakes and streams just east of the Cascade crest, is dammed at Rimrock for irrigation storage and forms a lake six miles wide in the center of the recreation area. The TIETON RECREATION AREA (see Recreation Area Map) in the southeastern part of the Snoqualmie National Forest, is bounded by the Yakima Indian Reservation and State forest on the south, the summit of the Cascades on the west, and the upper Naches drainage on the north; on the east are the sage-covered hills and fertile orchard lands in the bottoms of the Tieton and Naches valleys. Scenic interest centers around Rimrock Lake and is climaxed in the Goat Rocks Primitive Area, at the head of the north and south forks of the Tieton River. This rugged area of 72,440 acres includes a group of peaks approaching 8,000 feet in elevation, with living glaciers and mountain meadows carpeted with rare alpine flowers. It is the natural habitat of the mountain goat. Wildcat Mountain on Bethel Ridge, Cowiche Mountain, Goose Egg Mountain (4,500 alt.), and Kloochman Peak, all foothills of the Cascades, have legendary significance. Goose Egg Mountain was once the chaste bachelor chief Me-ow- wah, whose people lived in the Yakima Valley. Chiefs far and near sent their fairest daughters to dance before Chief Me-ow-wah, believing that he would succumb to their charms. Me-ow-wah consulted with Speel-yia, the crafty, who counseled him to sacrifice the maidens and himself in order to preserve the chastity of the tribe. Seeing the maidens coming up the valley, Me-ow-wah shouted in a voice of thunder, "Mit-whit" (stop). The astounded maidens wen turned to stone. Kloochman, on the south, is the Spokane maiden; Wildcat Mountain on the north, the Okanogan; and Bethel Ridge to the west, the Cowlitz. The Naches Ranger Stat1on, 35.5 m. (R), a group of neat white frame structures, is just within the entrance of the Snoqualmie National Forest. Here also is the Naches CCC camp, with spacious, well-kept buildings. The station marks the beginning of the Mather Memor1al Parkway, 50 miles of the most scenic section of the Chinook Pass Highway, set aside by Congress March 24, 1931. The highway passes the Cottonwood Forest Camp (L) at 36.1 m.
North of the junction with the Gold Creek Trail, at 37.6 m., is Edgar Rock. At 38.8 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left on this road to Mounta1n A1r Inst1tute, 2 m., a summer camp main- tained by Yakima churches. From the institute a foot trail leads to Boulder Creek Cave, 0.5 m., formed by the collapse of the hillside over the stream bed; the water eventually washed out the rubble, leaving a rock-vaulted passage 400 feet long and 15 feet high. In summer, tiny streams trickle through the passage. In spring, freshet9 roar through the tunnel. The stream above the cave is called DEVIL CREEK, and from it a 75 - foot waterfall leaps far beyond the edge of the cliff, forming an aquatic arch over the trail. CLIFFDELL, 39.2 m. (40 pop.), is an exclusive resort town owned by Yakima Valley residents. Fishing is usually good in the Naches River. SAWMILL FLATS, 42.7 m. (2,500 alt.) (L), has camping facilities furnished by the Forest Service. At 44 m. is a junction with a forest trail. Right on this trail to the L1ttle Naches Forest Camp, 0.2 m. North of the camp the trail leads to the Crow Creek Guard Stat1on, 2.8 m., where the first Forest Service cabin in Rainier National Forest was built in 1907. At that time the forest included the area that has since been designated as Snoqualmie National Forest. The trail continues to Ravens Roost, 16.5 m. West of the junction US 410 crosses the Naches River over a bridge, 44.1 m., from which the precipitous Fife's Ridge, known locally as Deadhorse Hill, is visible. At 44.6 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left on this road are HALFWAY FLAT, 2 m., and BOULDER CAVE, 3 m. (Travel over this road at certain times of the year is perilous). North of the junction with Crow Creek Trail, 45.5 m., US 410 passes the Ind1an Flat Forest Stat1on, 46.6 m. At 47.8 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left on this road through the AMERICAN RIVER RECREATION AREA, popular with game hunters; elk are plentiful. The Amer1can R1ver Lodge, 0.2 m., handles sports supplies and offers accommodations. The Amer1can R1dge Sk1 Bowl, 0.9 m. is a 50-acre snowfield set aside by the Forest Service. Here is a lodge building and shelter for skiers. A 220-foot slide and a slalom course are being developed. Ski meets are often held here, and the bowl is becoming a ski center of eastern Washington. The road follows the gorge of the Bumping River to GOOSE PRAIRIE, 10 m. (3,265 alt., 12 pop.), a small resort center in the glen at the base of GOAT PEAK (6,444 alt.). BUMPING LAKE, 11.5 m. (3,265 alt., 6 pop.), is a tiny settlement on the shore of BUMPING LAKE, in the heart of the Cascade Mountains. The lake serves as a reservoir for irrigation purposes in the lower Yakima Valley. Numerous mountain trails lead from here. A copper concentrator and a sawmill at COPPER CITY, 23 m., operate during a 9-month season, and approximately 25 persons live there during that period. West of the Bumping Lake Road the grade becomes more pro- nounced, as US 410 enters a defile between towering peaks, some bare and rugged, others heavily forested. Here are the last of the heavy lava flows to be seen throughout eastern Washington. Looming north of the
road is FIFE'S PEAK (6,954 alt.), the highest point of Fife's Ridge. Geologists believe it to be a remnant of an old volcano, which was probably the source of some of the lava flows of Yakima County. A concrete bridge, at 61.2 m., crosses MORSE CREEK, (2,700 alt.), which flows into American River, a roaring mountain stream. The creek runs through a dell carpeted with wild flowers and ferns. Wild life is abundant. From the heights at the head of American River the Cascade Range appears as waves in a turbulent sea. The ramifications of the river canyons and watersheds fade off into the gray plain east of the Columbia River. In 1790, the Spanish explorer, Manuel Quimper, roughly mapped the Cascades as Sierra Madras de San Antonio. About 1825 David Douglas, the botanist, used the name "Cascade." An attempt was once made to call the peaks after former Presidents and to christen the range "Presidents' Range." Mounting a long easy grade with many curves, US 410 climbs high above a forest (L), which is covered with snow in winter. The green of alpine fir and mountain hemlock is brightened by yellow splashes, where clumps of larch trees stand with bleached needles. The larch is the only tree in western United States that loses its needles in winter. On the hillside are thickets of mountain ash, from which dangle clusters of bright red berries. Mats of huckleberry bushes partially cover the rocks. The highway pierces the main divide by way of CHINOOK PASS some 20 miles south of the old immigrant crossing through Naches. The pass offers the first good opportunity to see glacier-ribbed MOUNT RAINIER (see Rainier National Park). From the summit of the pass, 66.6 m., (5,440 alt.), a tumbled rampart of mountain peaks is visible to the west. To the east is the deep valley of the American River; northward is an orderly staircase of cliff-sided peaks, dropping away from the summit; and to the south are jagged hills, their snowy slopes stubbled with sparse green forests. The pass is named for the warm wind that comes from the south- west, melting depths of snow in a few hours. The Indians had so named the wind because it came from the direction of the Chinook tribe, who lived near the mouth of Columbia River (see Tour jb). The sharp broken peaks around the pass, vestiges of old lava flows, were tilted to an acute angle by intrusions from below. Only rock pyramids resting on a solid foundation escaped the abrasion of glaciers. Red rock, andesite, and gray granite occur in patches along the roadside. The forest becomes more dense, as the highway follows the western slope down from the summit. Douglas fir and western hemlock, the dominant species in this humid area, attain a thickness of from 4 to 8 feet at the base and tower to more than 200 feet in height. At higher levels the lodgepole pine and species of fir mingle with the Douglas fir and hemlock. Lower down are found many red cedar and white fir. The historic old trail over Naches Pass, to the north, was used by
the Puget Sound and Plains Indians. The inland Klickitat, riding this narrow trail on their hardy ponies, would visit their cousins on Puget Sound and feast on first-run salmon and clams. In early fall the Puyal- lup, Nisqually, and other Sound tribes, mostly afoot, would come to the higher altitudes to gather huckleberries, seeds, and nuts. Later, this same trail was used by horse brigades of Hudson's Bay Company, carry- ing supplies to interior posts. The Longmires, Ezra Meeker, and other pioneers left the Oregon Trail at The Dalles and turned northward through the Yakima Valley to Puget Sound. Vestiges remain of the narrow road cut by these pioneers up the eastern slope of the divide. TIPSOO LAKE (R), 66.9 m. (5,400 alt.), shaped like the ace of clubs, drains a chain of ponds in the center of a skiing area. A small picnic area in the green bowl surrounding the lake, a natural basin, has tables, stoves, and running water. (Overnight camping is not allowed). Trails radiate to great spires of rock affording excellent viewpoints. A Bronze Plaque, set in a large boulder, has a bas-relief bust of the late Stephen T. Mather, who laid the foundation of the National Park Service. At 70.2 m. is a junction with State 5, which leads away to the south in a long downward curve to Ohanapecosh Hot Springs and the Ohanapecosh entrance to Mount Rainier National Park. (See Tour 8E and Mount Rainier National Park). An Oregon Tra1l Memor1al, 74.4 m., depicting a covered wagon drawn by oxen, commemorates the memory of George Howland Par- sons, a pioneer from Colorado who crossed through Naches Pass. At this point an excellent vista of Mount Rainier, its valleys, glaciers, lakes, and meadows, spreads out to the west. A macadam road that winds up the slope seems to terminate in the clouds. Below is a forested canyon, toothed with great snags of granite and lined with dark giants of trees. At 74.1 m. is a junction with a macadam-surfaced road. Left on this road to the YAKIMA PARK ENTRANCE TO RAINIER NATIONAL PARK, 16 m. (3,470 alt.), (see Mount Rainier National Park). At 78.1 m. US 410 enters Mount Rainier National Park. S1lver Creek Ranger Stat1on, 78.2 m. , is the headquarters of the Forest Service in charge of the White River District of the Sno- qualmie National Forest, one mile within the forest boundary. Im- portant fire prevention and recreational improvements, including 112 modern summer home cabins, have been made adjacent to the station. Special lot leases are available at a low yearly cost through the Forest Service. Near by, at the confluence of the White River and Silver Creek, is a F1sh Hatchery, maintained by the Bureau of Fisheries for the plant- ing of fish in lakes and streams in the forest and in Rainier National Park. More than a million fish annually, including brook, rainbow, and black spotted trout, are hatched and nursed to planting age. The
Parkway Post Off1ce, 73.7 m., stands by a lodge (cabins) where supplies are sold. Here is a junction with a dirt road. Left on this road 0.3 m. to The S1lver Spr1ngs Forest Camp (community kitchen, tables, picnic and trailer accommodations), adjoining the hatchery on White River. The road passes summer cabins nearly concealed by trees. The Dalles Forest Camp (tables, stoves, and running water), 85 m., stands between the road and the river in an open wooded area. Among the tall trees, protected under the Mather Memorial Parkway development, is a large, roofed kitchen with several smaller log build- ings adjacent. Adjoining the picnic area is the John Mu1r School Grove, a bit of natural forest preserved under the auspices of the student body of the John Muir School, in Seattle, in memory of the naturalist, John Muir. North of the camp, US 410 starts down the western side of the Cascades. Mount Rainier, its snow and ice glittering in bright sunlight, appears close enough to touch. Light-colored granite has replaced the brown lava cliffs and the glacial drift. To the right the foaming White River appears through openings in the woods. At the Boundary Guard Stat1on, 87.6 m., a peeled-log marker indicates the western end of the Mather Memorial Highway. At 87.7 m. is a boundary of the Snoqualmie National Forest. In GREENWATER, 92.7 m., at the confluence of the Greenwater and White rivers, are camp grounds and rustic Greenwater Lodge. Right from Greenwater Lodge by trail to HUCKLEBERRY MOUNTAIN, 2.5 m. The trail steeply ascends a difficult ridge and drops down into a cup- like depression, its floor covered by huckleberry bushes. During July the Indians erect their picturesque tepees in the hollow and prepare to can their winter's supply of jam. West of Greenwater US 410 follows the north bank of the White River. The action of glaciers on the comparatively soft material of Rainier's cone results in rapid disintegration of the rock; and the river is milky with rock flour. At 96.4 m. is the Wh1te R1ver Ranger Stat1on, a group of rustic buildings. The road crosses TWIN CREEK over a concrete bridge, near the point where the creek flows into the White River. Evergreens more than 150 feet in height form a colonnade along both sides of the road. In this virgin timber area, loggers are busy felling the forest giants for shipment to the near-by White River Mills and other lumber plants in western Washington. A short distance west are the tracks of a logging railroad, its locomotive sheds, and repair shops. Paralleling the railroad, the highway enters a logged-off and burned-over area. At 107.7 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here 2 m. to Mud Mountain, where a five-million-dollar earthen dam, the PUYALLUP AND WHITE RIVER CONTROL PROJECT, is under con- struction. This dam will be four hundred twenty feet high—the highest earthen dam in the world. Salmon will be transported over the dam by means of a special railway to be operated by the State department of fisheries.
An enormous waste burner and concrete stack tower above the buildings of Wh1te R1ver M1ll, 108.8 m., a large lumber, shingle and planing mill. The buildings are strategically clustered in a semi- circle around a storage pond where logs are dumped. West of the mill is an auto camp beside a grove of trees near the White River. On the camp grounds is a large pool from the center of which spurts a geyser. Leaving the bank of the river US 410 swings north and west, passing the Good Hope Da1ry (R) at 111.8 m., and a Forest Service Station (L). ENUMCLAW, 113.2 m. (742 alt., 2,627 pop.), on a plateau be- tween the White and Green Rivers in the Cascade foothills, is the gateway to Chinook and Naches passes and to the skiing and recreation areas of Mount Rainier and the Snoqualmie National Forest. Lumber- ing, dairy and poultry farming, and trade connected with recreation provide the bulk of Enumclaw's business. Many residents find employ- ment in the lumber mill and in the logging operations east of the town, and a few still work in the coal mines at Black Diamond, Carbonado, and Durham. The natural timber resources of the area first drew settlers to the site, which was platted on October 3, 1885, and named by Frank Steven- son and his wife for the mountain about six miles to the north. Accord- ing to a legend, a band of Indians encamped one night at the base of the mountain ridge; they were caught in a terrific thunder storm and became so frightened that they fled, calling the mountain "Enumclaw" (place of the evil spirits). The settlement was relatively isolated at first. For a while a small rowboat was used as a ferry to cross the torrential White River; a cow's horn, hidden in a stump known to all the settlers, was blown to summon the boat whenever a passenger desired to cross. In 1884-5 the main line of the Northern Pacific Railroad, building through from Cascade Junction, connected the settlement with Tacoma and lent impetus to logging, commerce, and other enterprises. The store of Arthur Griffin and John Blake prospered; and skins and hides, often used as tender in trade at the store, gave way to real money. The first school was opened in 1887; the first church services were held in Union Sunday School by David Jones; and by the nineties, a weekly—The Enumclaw Ever- green—was started by A. C. Rogers, son of Governor John Rogers. Improved marketing facilities drew many lumbering concerns to the White River, where Nelson Bennett (later to build the Cascade Tun- nel) had established the first mill. Among the factors that have contributed most to Enumclaw's growth are its co-operative organizations. The settlers, mostly Norwegians and Danes, brought the principles of the co-operative with them from their homelands and quickly put them into effect here. The Enumclaw Co-operat1ve Creamery Plant, 2nd and Myrtle Sts., is a major income-producer for the town, employing 48 men and doing an annual business of $1,000,000. The butter, which is shipped all over the State, has won national awards. The plant also has a powdered milk depart-
ment. The Enumclaw branch of the Washington Co-op Egg and Poultry Association and other dealers handle the output of the sur- rounding region. The Enumclaw Rochdale Co-operative, which maintains a Co- operat1ve Department Store, 1453 Cole St., was founded by Scan- dinavians in 1905. The co-operative enjoyed its greatest success between the years 1915 and 1925, when it maintained a store with grocery, hardware, furniture, and clothing departments and a hay, seed, and grain warehouse, which sold its products directly to the countryside farmers. The building now occupied by the department store was erected in 1924. However, the Co-operative abandoned its grain, hay, and seed department when a private milling company began selling to farmers at lower prices. Because of competition from national and regional chain stores, the Rochdale group reorganized in 1929 into a "co-op group of retailers." Foreign-born residents of Enumclaw are gathered in several lodges and fraternities. The Dan1sh Hall, Myrtle and Porter Sts., is a center for the social life of the town, both Norwegian and Danish groups making their headquarters here. The Old Enumclaw Hotel, the first building erected in the town, still stands at 1704 Railroad Avenue. West of Enumclaw US 410 swings downgrade. Rolling hills form a background on both sides of the highway for the scattered houses and occasional poultry farms. At 122.9 to. is a junction with a gravel road. Right on this road 0.2 m. to a junction with a crossroad; R. here 0.8 m. to a junction with a narrow gravel road; R. here 0.1 m. to an old Ind1an Graveyard, a part of the MUCKLESHOOT INDIAN RESERVATION. Fifty or more families of the tribe, whose territory once extended as far east as the Columbia, live on the reservation. They have been taught by Government agencies to sew, can foodstuffs, and develop their native arts. Small totem poles are carved by the Indian children. To celebrate a successful harvest, the Muckleshoot (Ind. river junction) hold a festival in the tribal Commun1ty Hall, 0.5 m. Following the defeat of the Indians at the Battle of Seattle (see Seattle), in January 1856, the tribesmen retreated to Muckleshoot Prairie. In the spring of 1857 a force of 250 men under Colonel Casey left Steilacoom to take the field against them. Warriors led by Chief Leschi, ill-fed and discouraged, made slight resistance, and after one attack at White River, they were repulsed. This engage- ment ended one phase of the Indian War. At 125.6 to. is a junction with a dirt road. Right on this road to Auburn Academy, 0.4 m., maintained by the Seventh- Day Adventist Church. The long, low, white wooden buildings of the academy are closely grouped and surrounded by green fields. The academy has an en- rollment of about 250. AUBURN, 129.4 to. (90 alt., 4,211 pop.), division point of the Northern Pacific Railway, is dominated physically and economically by the huge red buildings of the expansive railroad yard. The fact that Auburn is situated almost equidistant from Seattle and Tacoma, in the
fertile White River Valley between the Cascades and Puget Sound, made it one of the earliest important railroad centers. In this pleasant valley, in 1887, Dr. Levi W. Ballard, one of the first settlers, platted the town of Slaughter, to honor Lieutenant W. A. Slaughter, who was killed near the townsite during the Indian wars. It became a settlement, with one or two stores, a shingle mill, and scat- tered hop farms. With the coming of the Northern Pacific Railway, the town boomed, and Slaughter's citizens became name-conscious. It was embarrassing to have the hotel runner board the trains and cry: "This way to the Slaughter House." By special act of the legislature in 1893, the name was changed to Auburn, from Oliver Goldsmith's opening line in "The Deserted Village": "Sweet Auburn, loveliest village of the plain." With hop culture definitely unprofitable, the countryside was given over to berry and dairy farms, to which the land was well suited. The town was made the terminal of the Northern Pacific line in 1913, and the breaking-down of freight trains for north and south "drags" re- sulted in the installation of 50 miles of trackage and an impressive pay roll. In the railroad yards is a large 24-stall Roundhouse (visitors per- mitted), or locomotive repair shop, and several other railroad service buildings. On entering the roundhouse the visitor is greeted with a deafening roar, which may dampen his desire to view the processes of locomotive repair. Freight trains from eastern points are broken-down here, and the cars hauled on branch lines to Seattle, Tacoma, and other cities in the region. In turn the cities pack their products in boxcars, which are sent to Auburn on the branch lines to be made up into trains for eastern points. Left from the railroad yards is the Lange Pottery Company Fac- tory (open to visitors), a low one-story frame building where all types of pottery are made. All the work is done by members of the same family, and the beauty and sturdiness of the ware has made it possible for the factory, without advertising, to market all it can produce. In the rear of the building, with its pottery wheels and drying racks, is the kiln. The owner will demonstrate to visitors on a crude mechanism how pottery was made in Europe before the advent of modern methods. A Novelty Toy D1splay (L), in the backyard shop of Otto Lieske, a terra-cotta worker, features toy windmills, brightly painted, animated toys, and animals propelled by vanes. Around a large goldfish pool is a toy city peopled with gaily outlandish figures. In 1938, twenty thousand people participated in the celebration of Auburn Day, an annual event. In Auburn is a junction of US 410 and State 5-B, a concrete-paved road. At 2.8 m. on State 5-B is a junction with a graveled road; R. here 1.6 m. to GREEN RIVER GORGE. The road twists and turns along the picturesque gorge to Flam1ng Geyser Park, 11 m., operated commercially (adm. 25c). In the Flaming Geyser, which is not active now, natural gas forced its way
through salt water at irregular intervals and would burn brightly, when ignited, for a few minutes or for hours. The Baby Geyser, several hundred yards from the larger spout, burns almost continuously through cold sulphur water. The Flaming Geyser was discovered when prospectors were drilling holes in search of the McKay coal bed. After they had bored to considerable depth, gas began flowing. Failing to locate the coal vein, the investigators pulled out their drill, leaving the sheet iron casing in the hole. Subsequent rusting of the casing allowed water to enter, and under the water, gas accumulated until pressure grew sufficient to make it bubble to the surface. In Auburn is a junction of US 410 and a branch of State 5. Right (straight ahead) on the concrete-paved branch road through the ex- tensively cultivated White River Valley, where great fields of lettuce or celery and smaller acreages in cauliflower, peas, beans, and beets adjoin poultry ranches. The packing season generally starts in May with the shipment of rhubarb. Much of the produce is expressed to New York. The S1te of the Wh1te R1ver Massacre, 1.7 m., marked by a granite monu- ment enclosed by an iron railing, commemorates the victims of the massacre of October 28, 1855. The scattered settlers of the White River Valley were in constant fear of Indian attack, and when Allen Porter fled down the river valley one night late in October, 1855, spreading the alarm, they retreated to Seattle with their families. Soldiers, sent through the valley to investigate, were received by the Indians with such disarming friendliness that they returned to report there was no danger and that the settlers had been scared by their own shadows. On a Sunday morning about three weeks later the Indians, under the leadership of Chief Nelson, attacked three homes. Nine members of the three pioneer families—Brannon, King, and Jones—were killed, and their houses were burned. KENT, 5.4 m. (42 alt., 2,586 pop.), on a flat bisected by railroad tracks, is a town of attractive residences and a substantial business district. First known as Titusville, then Yesler, honoring Henry L. Yesler of Seattle, the town was platted as Kent by Ezra Meeker on July 3, 1888. The area, like that of the Kentish region in England, was noted for its hop culture. A crop of 859,436 pounds in 1888 spurred the town onward; prior to that time it had been simply a point for scow and boat traffic on the White River. The fertility of the surrounding black-loam valley lands made Kent an im- portant berry, dairy, and truck-garden center. As shipping point of the valley's agricultural produce, it has two railroad lines and a busy motor freight terminal with a fleet of 80 trucks. The town became the home of the first Carnation Condensed Milk plant on September 6, 1889. The Carnation Company was soon followed by the Pacific Coast Condensed Milk Company and canneries of Libby, McNeill and Libby, a cheese factory, and large commercial incubat- ing plants. Although hop culture has declined throughout the area, Kent remains noted for the quality and quantity of its crops. The production of lettuce, however, has outstripped that of hops. On Kent's annual Lettuce Day in early summer, a group of girls in bathing costume, standing in a huge bowl, pitchforks in hand, prepare a gigantic lettuce salad. The town's fairest Titian dumps the bucket of mayonnaise over the shredded lettuce. The Wash1ngton Frosted Foods, Inc. Plant (open by permission), N. 6th and W. Shinn Sts., produces a wide variety of frozen vegetables in its nine-month operating season. The plant purchases all of the vegetables it uses from tillers of the fertile valley soil. Asparagus is the only vegetable not grown heavily enough in the valley to satisfy the demand. The plant is crowded with modern machinery. The south building, which has outdoor boilers, shelters three production lines, where rubber-gloved men and women remove undesirable parts of the raw vegetables that pass on metal- webbed conveyor belts through great rotary washers; from the washers the vegetables are carried on the conveyor to steam boxes, where they are pre-
cooked and sterilized at a temperature of as high as 210° F. As they leave the boxes, they are sorted by girls and sent up an incline conveyor, which moves them overhead to an icing department. Here they are subjected to a quick-freeze process, under a temperature as low as 30° F., and then packed in containers. At 12.4 m. State 5 forms a junction with US 10 (see Tour 1b). South of Auburn US 410 passes long rows of freight cars in the railroad yards (R). At 134.4 m. is DIERINGER (75 alt., 143 pop.). To the left of the highway is the big Puget Sound Power and L1ght Company Plant (visitors welcome), where turbines generate elec- trical energy from the falling waters of near-by Lake Tapps. The arti- ficial lake, though large, is not especially adapted to recreational pursuits. Sprawled among the trees on the banks of the Stuck River, which links the White and Puyallup Rivers, is SUMNER (72 alt., 2,140 pop.), 137.4 m., an industrial and trading center for the Puyallup Valley. A clean and bustling community, it is noted for its berries, vegetables, rhubarb, and flower bulbs. Some of the streets leading from the business district terminate in berry fields and produce gardens. A number of warehouses and canneries line the bank of the river, and there are two large floral supply houses and two dairy plants. Sumner is headquarters of the Washington Berry Growers, The Puget Sound Vegetable Growers, the Sumner Rhubarb Growers, Washington Pack- ers, the Puget Sound Bulb Exchange, the Rhubarb Growers' Associa- tion, and other such associations. From the district 150 carloads of rhubarb are shipped annually. The United States Department of Agri- culture maintains an Entomological Research Laboratory here. The Fleischmann Yeast Plant is neatly laid out along the river bank. It maintains a recreational field for workers. Among other industrial plants serving the region are the Standard Brand Plant; the Fibre Boards Products, Inc.; Speas Vinegar; Sumner Sash and Door; Pacific Lumber Agency, which ships spruce to all parts of the country for airplanes and refrigerators; the Sumner Packing House; and the Sum- ner Grain and Milling Company. Half-hidden by a giant butternut and a luxurious holly tree, the Publ1c L1brary (open weekdays 2-5; 7-9), at 1204 Main St., con- taining 7,000 volumes, occupies the former residence of Mrs. Lucy V. Ryan, pioneer. A frame structure built in 1870, with a balustraded front porch and narrow entrance hallway, the house has been only slightly altered. A few museum pieces are on display, including a section of the first wooden water pipe used in Sumner, a heavy ox yoke, samples of petrified wood, and a collection of Civil War relics. In Sumner is a junction of US 410 with an alternate branch of State 5, the road to Enumclaw (see Tour 1D). West of Sumner US 410—State 5 continues to a junction with State 5-E 3 m. Left from the junction on State 5-E, a concrete-paved road penetrating the farm-dotted valley lowlands between the Carbon and Puyallup Rivers, to ORTING (Ind. prairie in the town), 9.2 m. (198 alt., 1,211 pop.) This sleepy- looking but prosperous village, supported by the farming and dairying activ-
ities of the valley, is built, like an early fort, around a large square. On Calistoga Ave. is the Wash1ngton State Sold1ers' Home (open 9 a.01.-4 P-">-), dedicated in May, 1891, as a home for Civil War veterans. At that time only one three-story building occupied an eight-acre tract; now the grounds cover more than 180 acres, with buildings to accommodate 160 persons. Since 1899 the colony plan has been used, whereby veterans with families are given allowances and permitted to live outside the home. Near the eastern limits of Orting is the Vo1ght Fish Hatchery, where steel- head trout are reared for planting in the surrounding streams. The yon Zonneveld Bulb Farm, a 120-acre tract, one mile northwest of Orting, is the largest bulb-producing land unit in the valley. Of the 54,000,000 daffodil bulbs produced annually in Washington on approximately 830 acres, this valley yields 25,000,000 bulbs from 500 acres. Growers never use the same piece of ground two years in succession for bulbs; every other year the ground is planted to green vegetation, and commercial fertilizer is added. Bulb planting starts in August and ends in September, and the new bulbs are harvested during the following July. On bigger farms the bulbs are dug by power cultivators. Most of the bulbs produced in the State are marketed in the East and in European countries. South of Orting State 5-E, becomes a gravel-surfaced road and continues to ELECTRON, 7.5 m. (125 alt.) inhabited exclusively by families of Puget Sound Power and Light Company employees. The company operates a Power Plant, (visitors welcome) on the Puyallup River, a mile and a half east of the settlement. The town came into existence in the fall of 1904. On November 23, 1936, a terrific slide, caused by the slow infiltration of water beneath the plant, carried away nearly one-half of the structure and damaged thousands of dollars worth of equipment. Luckily none of the inhab- itants were injured. Twenty-two families now reside here. In Electron, State 5-E forms a junction with another gravel-surfaced road (R), which rims the northern shore of Lake Kapowsin and ends at KAPOWSIN, 9 m. (630 alt., 582 pop.), (see Tour SD). South of Sumner, US 410 winds among trellised berry fields and hop lands, where, during the picking season, single persons and families crowd the highway in nondescript cars, seeking farms where they may eke out a meager living. During the berry season, as many as 3,000 transient workers are employed for picking. Indians come equipped to camp for the entire hop season. Hops were formerly a big crop in the valley, but farmers have largely abandoned them for the more profit- able berry growing. The cost of harvesting and cultivating the hops was made greater by the necessity of fighting pests that infested the hop fields. PUYALLUP, 140.6 m. (49 alt., 7,889 pop.), is on the rich valley floor along the dyked banks of the Puyallup River, lying 300 feet below the surrounding plateau. Formerly a dense wooded expanse, now a busy modern city, Puyallup is the center of broad berry fields, orchards, and green pasture lands. Here, as in Sumner, its sister city, berry fields encroach as far as the main streets; many of the dwellings, some modern and some dating back to the 1880's, are surrounded by orchards and berry rows. The immense yields of the district have attracted canneries, preserving plants, sawmills, woodworking plants, and box factories. The largest bee-hive factory west of the Mississippi is in Puyallup. In 1933 the canneries handled nearly 15,000,000 pounds of berries and small fruits.
Like Sumner, Puyallup has many associations co-operating in the mar- keting of lettuce, eggs, poultry, berries, rhubarb, bulbs, and hops. The oldest city in the valley, Puyallup as a settlement was known as Franklin. In February 1877, Ezra Meeker, (1830-1928), platted the first townsite and named it Puyallup (Ind. generous people), so that the town would have a name unlike any other in the world. The town was incorporated in 1890. Meeker first crossed the Plains by covered wagon in 1852. Later, in order to mark definitely the old Oregon Trail and to obtain funds from Congress for the survey and location of a national highway over its route, Meeker retraced the route by oxcart and covered wagon in 1906, when more than 70 years old. He later made approximately the same trip by automobile and, in 1924, by airplane at the age of 94. In P1oneer Park, Meridian St. between 3rd and 4th Aves. SE., is a lifesize statue of Ezra Meeker, by Victor Alonzo Lewis. Behind the monument, ivy vines planted by Meeker drape over a shelter and fountain. Pioneer Square was donated to the city by Meeker, and the public library building occupies the site of his original home. Another residence, the Old Ezra Meeker Home, 321 E. Pioneer, is used as a clubhouse by the G.A.R. On East Meridian, across the Puyallup River Bridge, a cobblestone monument with four marble plaques marks the S1te of Old Fort Malone. Here in 1856 soldiers erected a fort to protect the John Carson ferry from Indian attackers. The Western Wash1ngton Fa1r Grounds, on Meridian St. S., spread over 35 acres, with exhibition and amusement buildings covering 8 acres. When "Dad" Chamberlin started a livestock show in the nineties with a bull and a goose, the town laughed. Now, annually, the third week in September a fair is held for western Washington, something of an apology to Chamberlin. A nonprofit affair sponsored by a private corporation on land owned by the State, it draws an unusually large attendance. Horse racing, rodeo, and carnival features vie with agricultural, cattle, and poultry exhibits. The Western Wash1ngton Exper1ment Stat1on, W. Pioneer Way, under the supervision of the State College at Pullman (see Tour 4b) makes a study of crop production, farm management, marketing, soil analysis, diseases, and other problems associated with the agricul- ture of the region. The station has helped to develop new varieties of berries adapted to local soil conditions. Poultry research has included studies of improved rations and diets and in the prevention and cure of poultry diseases. Dairying methods have also been studied; better hay, grazing grasses, and feeds have been developed. Exploration of frozen- pack methods and search for plants best suited to this treatment have been undertaken with considerable success. During April each year, when the bulb farms are aflame with color, Puyallup and the neighboring communities hold their Daffodil Festi- val, with thousands of blooms decorating floats and displays. The Hunt Brothers Pack1ng Company Plant (open by per-
mission), 203 5th St. NW., largest plant of its kind in Puyallup, processes beans, peas, and other vegetables. It is busiest during August and September. West of Puyallup US 410 hugs the south side of the Puyallup River, which has its source in Puyallup Glacier on Mount Rainier and is fed by the North Mowich and South Mowich glaciers (see Mount Rainier National Park). The Carbon River and the White River via the Stuck River also flow into the Puyallup. The highway cuts across thousands of acres of daffodil, berry, and truck farms. On distant hill- sides may be seen occasional silver-fox farms, enclosed with close-meshed wire fences. US 410 bears L. across the Puyallup River and unites with Bay St. (Tacoma). At Puyallup Ave., at the south end of a long bridge span- ning the Puyallup, is a junction with US 99 (see Tour 8c). Left on Puyallup Ave., where there is a junction with State 5, the Mount Rainier Highway (see Tour 8d) \ continue on Pacific Ave. to Tacoma City Center. TACOMA, 147.4 m. (sea level to 110 alt., 109,408 pop.) (see Tacoma). Retrace Pacific Ave. to junction with US 410-US 99; straight ahead on this road to Olympia (see Tour 8c). OLYMPIA, 177.4 m. (71 alt., 13,254 pop.) (see Olympia). Section d. OLYMPIA to ABERDEEN; 48.3 m. US 410 West of OLYMPIA, 0 m., US 410 swings around the southern tip of Budd Inlet into a suburban district formerly known as Marshfield. In 1936 the State Canal Commission was appointed to further plans for a canal from this inlet to the Columbia River, through McCleary and by way of Grays and Willapa harbors. Efforts had been made in behalf of this canal since the fifties when Jefferson Davis, Secretary of War under President Franklin Pierce and later President of the Southern Confederacy, had engineers of the United States Army make a survey of the route. The report of 1854-5 declared the project not only feasible, but vital to the development of the Northwest. In 1933 the State legislature, thoroughly in accord with the old report, made an appropriation of $50,000 for further survey and appraisal. The cost of the canal, which would include locks with a lift of 90 feet, is estimated at between thirty-five and forty-five million dollars. The canal is considered an important commercial and naval-defense project. MUD BAY (R), 4 m., at the end of Eld Inlet, supports broad oyster beds where the famous Olympia oysters, of exceptional delicacy and small size, are grown. These are Washington's only native oysters. At 5 m. is a junction with US 101, the Olympic Peninsula Loop Highway (see Tour ga). West of the junction the highway leaves the southern fringes of Puget Sound and climbs a low pass through the rugged Black Hills. McCLEARY, 19.2 m. (287 alt., 1,200 pop.), on a grassy flat in
an area of logged-off land, is cut by a creek that washes under the highway and across the town through a straight ditch, marked by numerous footbridges. Around the town are several ranches of mill- workers. An extension of the main street runs into the millyard of the town's only industrial plant, a sash-and-door factory owned by the McCleary Mill Company, which was named for Henry McCIeary, mill operator, in 1910. The business district is made up mostly of frame buildings with false fronts—all recalling lusty days and nights when the logger, in his boots and "tin pants," was king of the bars and gambling rooms. McCleary millworkers took part in the lumber strikes general throughout the State in 1935, and in 1936, when 17 men were dis- charged, allegedly for labor organization activities, another strike was called. An anti-picketing injunction had been secured in a Mason County court to restrain picketing of a mill in Shelton owned by the McCleary operators; this injunction was applied to the McCleary mill in Grays Harbor County, which had reopened under armed guards. The plant was picketed, however, until several carloads of State police arrived and dispersed the strikers. Since the incident, there has been little union activity in the town. Three hundred workers are now employed in the operation of the sash-and-door factory, at one time one of the largest in the country. The company's lumber mill has been shut down. The employees are buy- ing little acreages, improvising small impermanent homes, and, after clearing their land, attempting to supplement their factory wages by gardening, berry growing, poultry raising, and dairying; thus they are helping transform a dismal logged-off region into an agricultural com- munity. When the remaining stands of timber disappear from near-by forests, McCleary will lose its importance as a lumber center, but the development of farms will give the town a chance to survive. In McCleary is a junction of US 410 and State 9-D, a bituminous- surfaced road, which leads northeast to a junction with US 101 (see Tour pa). West of McCleary is a junction with State 9-K, which passes through an area of stump land and scrubby second-growth trees. At intervals newly cleared plots, with little shacks, make their appearance. Tiers of pulpwood and ricks of fuel wood are piled along the highway awaiting shipment. WHITES, 22.8 m. (200 alt., 100 pop.), is the location of a logging camp, which has been in operation for more than 30 years. In the community are also two lumber mills. West of Whites, US 410 enters a wide valley dotted by farms. Small attractive houses line the road. West of a bridge across the Cloquallum River the valley widens, and here the tracks of the Northern Pacific parallel the highway. Adjacent to the Elma Fa1r Grounds, 25.7 m., with a race track and grandstand, are the buildings of a CCC camp. Wide fields and luxuriant pastures are on both sides of the highway. ELMA, 27.3 m. (69 alt, 1,376 pop.), in the Chehalis River Valley,
is a pleasant agricultural town with wide, quiet, tree-arched streets. D. F. Byles and his family, Elma's first citizens, who took a land dona- tion claim in 1853, were members of the first party of immigrants to come over Naches Pass. A short time later J. M. Anderson erected a store building, and other settlers from the Mississippi Valley arrived. It was suggested that the town be called Elmer, for Elmer E. Ells- worth, first Union soldier killed in the Civil War, but the postal authorities rejected the name and substituted Elma. Municipal govern- ment was established in 1886, and J. J. Carney (later postmaster at Aberdeen) was elected first mayor. The Chronicle, Elma's first news- paper, was begun by Carney on May 25, 1889, and is still published. Residents of Elma and the surrounding community rely on dairying, poultry raising, truck gardening, and bulb growing for their livelihood. The town is also a trading center for woodworkers and loggers in McCIeary, Whites, and logging operations in the region. West of Elma the monotony of green pasture land is broken by clumps of large Douglas firs and by the giant evergreens and smaller maples that surround each farm. At 29.9 m. the Oaks Golf Course (fees 50c weekdays, 75c Sun. and holidays) stretches its clipped lawns away from the highway. SATSOP, 31.3 m. (58 alt., 300 pop.), a cluster of buildings about a store and a church, is the center of a populous area of dairy farms, poultry ranches, berry fields, and bulb farms. The village and the Satsop River by which it stands are named for an Indian tribe. Right from Satsop 8.6 m. to SCHAEFER STATE PARK (stoves, rest rooms, dance floor, and recreation facilities), on the upper course of the Satsop River. The small park has a fine stand of big-leaf maple and giant firs. There are excellent fishing spots along the river. A State fish hatchery is near by. Across the sluggish Satsop River, 32.8 m., is BRADY, a small group of old buildings hugging the highway on either side. A logging-donkey yard, at 33.1 m., filled with donkey engines, steam shovels, and other heavy equipment, seems to be waiting for a period of activity that may never return. In a logging railroad yard farther west, 34.3 m., dinkeys rust in idleness in the roundhouse. Continuing west, the highway penetrates fertile fields, then hurries across a wide valley bottom, where small houses stand among tangled thickets and underbrush. Stretching along the road is a small, well-kept park, 36.8 m. A monument in the park, dedicated to World War heroes by the American Legion, represents a stack of muskets and helmets on a concrete base. To the left is an athletic field. MONTESANO, 37.3 m. (65 alt., 2,241 pop.), seat of Grays Harbor County and one of the oldest cities in the region, lies at the confluence of the sluggish Wynooche (Ind. shifting sands) and the Chehalis Rivers. First settlement, however, was made on the south bank of the Chehalis, almost opposite the mouth of the Wynooche, by Isaiah Scammon, who had come from Maine. His journey to this corner of the country is illustrative of the difficulties that beset travelers in his day. He came around the Horn to San Francisco and thence to
Astoria by boat; crossed the Columbia River to Ilwaco near Fort Canby, then went by stage to what was known as Peterson's Point (now Westport); from there he crossed Grays Harbor and went up- stream to the present site of Montesano. The settlement was known for a long time as Scammon's; later, as Wynooche. Chehalis County was created April 14, 1854, and the home of D. K. Welden named county seat. Virtually at the head of navigation on the Chehalis River even at that time, the settlement made up a popular subscription and built the steamer Enterprise in 1859, to run between Satsop and Grays Harbor. On February 9, 1860, the Enterprise, loaded with troops of Company A, Fourth Infantry, under the command of Captain M. Maloney, stopped at the harbor mouth to establish a fort at Point Chehalis (Westport). In 1860 the county seat was removed to the J. L. Scammon place. The name Montesano, which by then had been given to the settlement, derived from monte (Sp. mountain) and sano (Sp. health), was prob- ably suggested by the large hill back of the town (now usually known as Boy Scout Knob). Settlers came in increasing numbers, but many of the newcomers crossed to the north side of the Chehalis and began a second settlement. The new site was bought up in 1870 by C. N. Byles, of Elma (see above). A town was platted and given the name of the old settlement, which then became known as South Montesano. The new Montesano prospered during the seventies and eighties. The first store was estab- lished by John Esmond in 1872. The Arland brothers set up a hand shingle mill in 1881 and received as high as $200 per thousand feet for products shipped to San Francisco. In 1881 Squire Zenor put up the first hotel. Joseph E. Calder and James W. Walsh founded the present Chehalis Valley Chronicle in February, 1883. When the two young men heard that the Government was going to require filers on timber claims to advertise notice of application and notice of final proof, they hastily moved to Montesano, with a $400 roller press and eight fonts of type. Although the Chronicle was only a four-page affair, with the front and back printed in Portland from stock forms, nevertheless the two editor- printers experienced many difficulties. When Calder retired after ten months, his profits had reached 2,400 per cent. More than anything else, this indicated the number of timber claims being taken in the region, particularly up the Wynooche River. Mills were springing up all along the Chehalis River also; and in the early eighties a mill was built on Lake Sylvia, just back of the townsite. Montesano turned on its first electric lights in October 1889, approxi- mately a month before the Northern Pacific Railroad stopped its first train at the boxcar station. Montesano industries now are in a state of transition, seeking to develop on the basis of expanding agriculture in the vicinity. Schaefer Brothers operate a shingle mill employing 90 men; their sawmill here burned in 1931, cutting off the largest industrial pay roll in this com-
munity. Of growing importance is the Blue Mountain Pea Cannery, started in 1936. Growing and shipping of seed is becoming a local industry; and a dairy plant of some size is in operation. Last year the town took over the 4-H fair previously held in Elma. The residential districts are notable for the number of large and elaborate dwellings. Numerous timber operators, who had grown up with the county and acquired wealth in the process, settled here and built lavish homes. Most striking reminder of these days is the Albert- Schaeffer Estate, covering a city block east of the courthouse. The Montesano C1ty Hall, at the city center, houses a fire sta- tion, library and executive offices of the city government. The Grays Harbor County Courthouse, at First and Broad Sts., a sandstone-faced building with coppered dome, dominates the town and the wide valley to the south. When the lumbering industry was rich and location of timber property netted heavy tax returns for Grays Harbor County, the citizens built the courthouse, one of the outstand- ing county structures in the State. It was designed by the late Watson Vernon, Aberdeen architect. Among the murals decorating the interior is one by F. Rohrbeck, a Milwaukee artist, depicting the discovery of Grays Harbor by Captain Gray on May 7, 1792. Flanking it are panels of timber and mill scenes by F. Biderstein. Another Rohrbeck mural Governor Stevens Treaty with the Indians, February 25, 1855, is also flanked by panels done by Biderstein. The courthouse was the scene of the trials in the "Centralia Mas- sacre" case between January 26 and March 12, 1930 (see Labor). The McKenz1e-Elmer Plaque in the courthouse memorializes the late county deputy sheriffs, Collin McKenzie and A. V. Elmer, who were slain by John Turnow (or Tornow), known variously as the "Beast Man," "The Wild Man of the Olympics" and the "Human Gorilla." Between 1910 and 1913 Turnow was a half-legendary figure of terror in the Grays Harbor and Olympic Wilderness country, a muscular giant, 6 feet 5 inches in height and weighing 250 pounds. He is said to have known the woods and its creatures intimately, to have clothed himself in skin and bark, and to have been a dead shot. Turnow escaped in 1909 from an institution for the insane in Salem, Oregon, and a year later killed two young hunters in Grays Harbor County. Not until March, 1912, was he reported seen near Oxbow, on the Satsop River. Sheriff Colin McKenzie and A. C. Elmer, a deputy, went after him and were found shot to death 13 days later. With a reward of $5,000 offered, and at times a thousand men combing the wilderness, Turnow baffled his pursuers for many months. On April 16, 1913, his hideout was stumbled upon by Giles Quimby, deputy sheriff, Louis Blair, and Charles Lathrop. In the rifle battle that followed, Blair and Lathrop were killed, but a bullet from Quimby ended the life of the bearded giant. North from the Montesano city center is the Schaeffer Boneyard, where donkey engines and other logging equipment are retired. All ages, sizes, and types of steam donkeys are rusting away in this boneyard,
T O U R 2 395 offering a picture of the development of steam-power engines as used in northwestern logging from the nineties until recent years. Right on 3rd Street 1.5 m. to MONTESANO STATE PARK (picnicking facilities) at Sylvia Lake, a 247-acre wooded area. Left from the city center on State 9 to the ruins of the SCHAEFER BROTHERS MILL, a few feet north of the Chehalis River Bridge. West of Montesano the highway cuts through the Wynooche Valley, its broad fields golden with flowering mustard or emerald with new clover and luxuriant pasturage. Sleek dairy cattle graze near large barns and comfortable rural houses. In the stump lands a few miles further west, however, a less happy spectacle is presented; scattered farms standing in the midst of stumps, infant second-growth fir, cedar, alder, and maple, and thick underbrush. Signs tacked to some of the fence posts tell the story of failure in two concise words—For Sale. Conversion of the marginal stumplands into productive farms is a long, tedious, and expensive process, and many who undertake it are forced because of financial difficulties to abandon the enterprise, after months of toil, and sell their land. The GRAYs HARBOR Golf AND Country CLUB Course (private) 43.5 m. borders the highway. Near by are fine suburban homes with well-kept gardens. The highway passes an abandoned lumber mill at 45.6 m.; forested hills rise to the right. Along the edge of the river is the rusted mass of another old mill, 47.6 m. Great log rafts in the waters are moved by groaning tugs or lie anchored near the shore. Here is a junction of US 410 and US 101 (see Tour 96 and Tour 9d). Left here on US 101 (State 9) across the Chehalis River. At the south end of the bridge is a junction with a gravel-surfaced road; Right on this road 0.3 m. to the ScANNoN House. Built in 1856, this was the first home, church, store, post office, and courthouse in what was later to be Grays Harbor County. ABERDEEN, 48.3 m., (sea level to Io alt., 18,846 pop.)— HOQUIAM (sea level to 300 alt., 10,835 pop.) (see Aberdeen- Hoquiam.) IIIlllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllldIIIlllllllllkillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll Tour 3 Maryhill Junction—Vancouver—Longview Junction—Longview— Cathlamet—Johnson's Landing; 216.5 m.; US 830. Spokane, Portland and Seattle R.R. parallels route between Maryhill and Van.
couver; Northern Pacific, Great Northern, and Union Pacific R.Rs. parallel route between Vancouver and Longview. Hotel accommodations at Camas, Vancouver, Longview, and Cathlamet; num- erous tourist camps, some with trailer accommodations. Forest Service camps in Columbia National Forest. Bituminous-surfaced road between Maryhill Junction and Washougal; con- crete-paved road between Washougal and Longview; bituminous-surfaced road between Longview and Johnson's Landing. Section a. MARYHILL JUNCTION to VANCOUVER, 104.5 m- US 8jo Beginning among brown, treeless hillsides, US 830, the North Bank Highway, threads downstream along the Columbia River through a deep and spectacular gorge which, laying open a cross section of the otherwise unbroken 2,000-mile Cascade-Sierra mountain chain, separates the States of Washington and Oregon. Below thundering cataracts, the river plunges into swirling pools. Bleak rocky islands break the river channel. Canyon walls reflect the heat of noon and the varied colors of sunrise and sunset. Wispy waterfalls leap from high "hanging valleys." A large Indian population once occupied villages along the river banks and lived and fought within the gorge's frowning walls and among the green islands of the lower river, until decimated by the white man's whisky and the ravages of smallpox. At least five nations disputed possession of the region north of the stream, a territory delim- ited by treaty with Great Britain in 1846 (see History) and awarded by virtue of discovery and colonization to the United States. West of the junction of US 97 and US 830 at MARYHILL JUNCTION, 0 m., (see Tour 7b), US 830 leads along the rocky- north side of the Columbia Gorge. The banks of the river on the Oregon side rise steeply, forming terrace on terrace as they mount hundreds of feet to a flat-domed top. Farther west, cultivated lands and orchards are visible. At 3.9 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left here 0.2 m. to Maryh1ll Castle, an isolated mansion which resembles a palace and blends strangely with the setting of the wild gorge. It was com- pleted in 1926 by the late multimillionaire, Samuel Hill, pioneer good roads advocate, international peace promoter, royalty's friend, and the son-in-law of "Empire Builder" James J. Hill. It was originally selected as the site for a Quaker colony, but Samuel Hill discovered that many of the colonists he im- ported from Belgium were reluctant to settle on the parched slopes of the gorge. Although colonizing ideas were abandoned, Maryhill Castle rose in desolate grandeur. The mansion, planned by New York architects, includes large garages, spacious driveways, and electric and gas equipment. The castle is approached through lanes of white poplars, which provide an impressive setting for the gray stone structure overlooking the gorge. Hill decided to convert the building into a museum, and invited Queen Marie of Rumania to dedicate it in 1926. West of the junction, the gorge drops sharply toward the river below, where sand dunes form a large island. A stone farmhouse, built sturdily to resist the unrelenting winds, stands on a sheep ranch. Rocks are strewn in profusion on both sides of the road, and steep hills (R) rise
from the highway. Farther west the gorge widens. Visible across the Columbia is the rolling plateau of north central Oregon. At 8.2 m. is a junction with an asphalt-paved road. Left on this road down a precipitous grade to WISHRAM, 1 m. (166 alt., 300 pop.), nestling in a little dell and overlooking the curving rocky cascades of the river. The town is the division point of the Spokane, Portland, and Seattle Railroad, which maintains a yard and a roundhouse here. Small, well- kept houses, roofed in red, blue, and green, give a tidy appearance. A cosmo- politan touch is provided by a two-story stucco bungalow court apartment and a large hotel. Railroad employees reside in yellow-painted houses near the hotel. Numerous poplar trees border winding graveled streets. Since this is a stopover point for trains, itinerants who "ride the rods" assemble at a "jungle" near the town. A P1oneer Memor1al stands 100 feet east of the railroad station along the mainline track. It consists of several basalt columns bound together with an iron cable; on it is a bronze plaque bearing the name of pathfinders and pioneers, beginning with Meriwether Lewis and ending with John C. Fremont. The monument was erected in 1936 by the Great Northern Railroad, with which the S. P. & S. is closely affiliated. Wishram once was called Fall- bridge, but the name was changed in 1926. One-half mile west from Wishram by trail to CELILO FALLS, where the Columbia River plunges 20 feet over a knife-edged precipice extending across the river. The falls mark the entrance to a narrow channel, bordering prec- ipitous cliffs of basalt. The ancient village of Wishram was a "food emporium" and trading mart of the Indians. Here Indians gathered from east and west to barter with the Klickitats, who fished below Celilo Falls for the salmon struggling up the river to their spawning grounds, and dried and packed the fish in bundles and bales of varied sizes for trading purposes. Washington Irving, in Astoria, explains that tribes from the Pacific Coast brought sea foods, itiapato (Ind. wild potato), and other roots and berries. From the interior, along the lane of the Snake and Columbia Rivers, natives drove in with horses, or rowed downstream in canoes laden with bear grass roots and other edibles. Today, during the salmon run, Indians stand on frail scaffoldings, fastened precariously on the rocky sides of the channel above the falls, with ropes fastened to their waists and long-pointed javelins in hand, awaiting the leap of the salmon. In the split second when the fish are arrested in midair, the spears are driven home. Treaty rights allow the Indians the exclusive privilege of taking salmon by this primitive method. Near the Oregon side is the upper end of the locks which furnish portage for river steamers through the narrow gorge and around the falls. The locks were completed by the Federal Government in 1892; though little used by navigation, the $5,000,000 investment effected a reduction in freight rates that paid for its construction. West of the junction US 830 affords a sweeping view of the river, a railroad bridge, and Wishram. A short distance west are farmhouses (R) surrounded by yellow poplars. Then, as the gorge widens, pasture lands come into view at various points alongside the road. Adjacent to a steeply-terraced, brown, rocky cliff are velvety hills speckled with green trees. At 17.6 m. is a junction with a trail. Left on this trail 1.5 m. across rocky open land to CALDWASH BOTTOM, where red and white Indian pictographs on rocks are found. Here also are a few scattered graves. At 18.5 m. is a junction with a concrete-paved road.
Left on this road, that descends to the level of the river channel, is NORTH DALLES, 3 m. (123 alt., 14 pop.), consisting of a few bleached buildings cling- ing to the river bank. The North Dalles Ferry (day and night service; 50c for auto and driver) connects with The Dalles, Oregon. North Dalles was the first seat of Klickitat County and in Territorial days was known as Rockland. In 1891 this flat was the scene of a projected boom town, promoted by the Reverend Orson D. Taylor, who came as a Baptist missionary in 1880. Elaborate illustrations of the "city" showed fine boulevards, streetcars, and three railroads. On Taylor's maps, the Klickitat River emptied into the Columbia at this point, instead of at its actual location nine miles westward. Holding companies were organized; offices were opened in many eastern cities. Arrested in 1895, Taylor carried his case to the Supreme Court which released him on a technicality. The site marks the down-river end of the locks through The Dalles. The name was given the narrow, rocky stretch by the French-Canadian voyageurs. The channel is between 280 and 400 feet deep, and only 165 feet wide as the great river pours through the narrow gap. Several stone images, including the heads of monkeys carved in basalt, have been found in the vicinity. Along the railroad tracks E. of North Dalles at a point known as SPEARFISH, 2 m., are extensive Indian pictographs and petroglyphs. Some distance west of the junction, the backwash of Bonneville Dam widens the Columbia River. Paralleling the highway, the PAHA CLIFFS (R), perpendicular walls of lava rock, are not remarkable for height, but are of such regularity and symmetry as to seem fash- ioned by human hands. Indian legends state that Speelyia, the coyote god, created the many pillars of stone by turning mortals and beasts into rock. Geologists explain that seismic and volcanic action raised the mountain area, and river erosion left the odd-shaped formations. LYLE, 26.2 m. (101 alt., 250 pop.), marked by a few houses along the highway, is a railroad shipping point for a farm and orchard dis- trict. Below the road, on a sloping hill, is the business section of the town, near which is a boxwood mill. Lyle has a hotel, a schoolhouse, a church, and a community clubhouse. At 27.1 m. is a junction with a gravel-surfaced road. Right on this road along the eastern bank of the Klickitat River, which flows between canyon walls a thousand feet high, to KLICKITAT FALLS, 3 m., an Indian fishing ground. KLICKITAT, 14 m. (440 alt., 620 pop.), on the north bank of the river, is the site of the Gas Ice Corporation's plant which manufactures "dry ice" from natural carbon dioxide wells at Klickitat Mineral Springs. Three tons of the product, used for refrigeration in long-distance hauling, are shipped daily. The town, however, is dominated by a large saw- mill which employs 500 men. West of the junction, US 830 crosses the Klickitat River, which has its source in Klickitat Glacier on Mount Adams. Through a high plateau, the winding river has cut a deep gorge to its mouth at Lyle. Near the mouth of the river, along the western bluffs, are strange round depressions surrounded by stones that seemingly form a wall. Continuing westward, the highway enters the pass cut by the Colum- bia through the Cascade Mountains. Mount Hood (11,225 in Oregon, rears (L) its snowy cone above the countryside. With a boat, which can sometimes be secured from farmers along the river, it is possible to reach MEMALOOSE (Ind. place of the
dead) ISLAND, a desolate basalt isle a few hundred feet out in the river. For centuries the Indians built platforms here and placed the dead and their possessions upon them. On the island, facing the south, the large white Trkv1tt Monument commemorates Vic Trevitt, a pioneer of The Dalles, who chose to be buried on the island sacred to his Indian friends. Many years ago three pioneers, John Martin, Amos Underwood, and Vic Trevitt, while drinking in a Dalles saloon, began a discussion of death; they formed a compact to be buried together on the island, Trevitt asserting that he wanted to sleep among honest people. He was the only one of the three whose friends or relatives would honor the agreement; after his death in San Francisco his remains were shipped to the island. A Fru1t Pack1ng Plant, 37.4 m., stands (L) of the road. BINGEN, 37.6 m. (101 alt., 6oo pop.), named for "Bingen-on-the- Rhine" by early German settlers, lies between bluffs and the river on a narrow strip of rich sandy loam. On the fringes of the town are luxuriant meadows dotted with dairy cattle. Irrigation from the river permits extensive truck farming. According to "Believe-It-Or-Not" Ripley, the railroad depot of White Salmon-Bingen is the only one in the Nation with the names of two separate towns on it. Controversy between the towns over which was the location of the station caused the dual name. Bingen today has two sawmills, a fruit company, a hotel, taverns, and restaurants. In Bingen is a junction with a dirt road. Right on this road, which is steep and winding, to WHITE SALMON, 1.5 m. (586 alt, 985 pop.), located in step-like formation on a hillside. Like Bingen it is in the center of a ranching and farming district. The town is sheltered from the east wind that sweeps down the gorge by Burdoin Moun- tain (2,200 alt.). Jewett Creek emerges from a canyon at the base of the moun- tain and flows through a small valley. While the terrain of the townsite is rocky, there is fertile alluvial soil in adjacent areas. White Salmon also is a logging and dairy products shipping point. It is a brisk little town with modern stores in brick buildings. North of White Salmon on Jewett Street to NORTHWESTERN LAKE, 3.5 m., formed by the backwater of a power dam. Numerous camp sites and picnic grounds are on the grassy shores. The lake is stocked with trout and has boating and swimming facilities. West of Bingen rocky hillsides merge with verdant growths and lush meadows along the banks of streams and creeks. The odor of sweet-smelling pine and cedar permeates the cool air. Snow-white syringa grows profusely. The road skirts lofty tree-covered cliffs (R), while (L) the Columbia River gradually widens as it approaches Bonneville Dam. The Wh1te Salmon-Hood R1ver Toll Br1dge, 75c; pedes- trians 1oc), 39.3 m„ across the Columbia River, links Washington and Oregon. At 39.5 m. is a junction with a gravel-surfaced road. Right on this road, which is paralleled throughout most of its length by the west bank of the White Salmon River, where steelhead trout challenge fish-
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ermen from November until April. Early in spring, slopes are carpeted with blue grasswidows, yellow bell, large patches of blue lupine, and wild sun- flowers. The California lilac blossoms late in May in a riot of blue tones. TROUT LAKE, 22 m., is a post office and store near the confluence of the White Salmon River and Trout Lake Creek. Two roads branch from Trout Lake. 1. Left from Trout Lake post office is GULER, 1 m. (see Mount Adams Recreational Area Map), a ranger station and post office at the foot of Trout Lake. Across the street from the ranger station is a hotel. One-half mile long, Trout Lake has grassy shores enclosed by forest growth. West of Guler the forest road continues around the base of Sugarbowl Butte (3,000 alt.) to the ICE CAVE, 8 m. Through an aperture fringed with wild flowers icy draughts issue from the 400-foot cave. Visitors descend a tree ladder by torchlight to the crystal floor of ice; within are thousands of stalactites and stalagmites like organ pipes. Geologists explain the formation of the cave as a bubble in the plastic rock. The entire region south of Mount Adams is full of these caves, most of them without openings but known to exist by the hollow sound made when horses clatter over them. a. Right from Trout Lake post office, by forest road across the White Salmon River to Gotchen Creek Guard Stat1on, 10 m., at the foot of a long lava flow on the slopes of Mount Adams. At 13 m. the road crosses Bird Creek where it turns N. paralleling the stream through an area of meadows and lakes to B1rd Creek Meadows Camp, 19 m. Innumerable small streams with their waterfalls and cascades add to the charm of a setting of green meadow, multi- colored wildflowers, and scrubby green trees. Trails radiate from Bird Creek Meadows Camp along ridges and through valleys to MOUNT ADAMS (12,307 alt.), whose four distinct summits and central dome form a symmetrical and majestic picture of white against a blue sky. Lesser peaks, mostly sharp crags along the slopes, protrude from the moun- tain. The snowline belt is splashed with yellow and vermilion crags across the dark purple cliffs. Seven distinct glaciers, defined by the black lines of ridges, clutch the cone, like talons of a great bird. UNDERWOOD, 40.6 m. (101 alt., 200 pop.), a collection of small homes and fruit warehouses along the river and the railroad tracks, is a junction point of rivers, railroads, and highways. The White Salmon River, joining the Columbia at Underwood after a tumultuous career in a narrow, rocky canyon, is so named because salmon swimming up the stream to spawn change from a deep red color to a pinkish white. The town consists of a railroad station, a few houses along the banks of the Columbia, a service station, and a large three-story hotel. It offers a view of snow-covered hills (R), and of the expansive Columbia (L), where the wind stirs up white caps against the blue-white water. On the Oregon side of the river, towering behind the buildings of Hood River and wooded hills, is majestic Mount Hood. Near the western boundary of the town, warehouses line the highway next to the railroad tracks. In Underwood is a junction with a dirt road. Right on this road 1 m. to the Underwood Cemetery, on a knoll, where the remains of Amos Underwood and other pioneers have been buried. US 830 extends beneath the now extinct volcanic cone (R) of MOUNT UNDERWOOD (2,725 alt.), along a seven-mile section of highway opened in May 1937. Construction here lent itself to the most modern highway engineering, including heavy rock work, riprap,
tunnels, grade separation structure, drainage culverts, and a major bridge. The first construction is an overhead crossing above the railroad tracks, 42.7 m. Right of the highway is a combination sawmill and shingle mill unit, which provides employment for many residents of Underwood and the surrounding area. Drano Lake (R) collects the waters of the Little White Salmon River, spanned by a bridge at this point, and discharges them into the Columbia River. COOK, 47.6 m. (99 alt, 150 pop.), once a busy boat landing, is composed of a schoolhouse, a general store, and a few other buildings, all sitting on a steep hill. The town looks down on the Columbia, flowing in blue peacefulness after its turbulent course through The Dalles. WIND MOUNTAIN, 53.2 m. (R), (1,910 alt.), a solitary rounded hill, looms in bold relief. Wooded slopes cover the east side of the mountain; on its west side are jagged peaks. The mountain has a peculiar slant, caused by the river that sawed through the rising moun- tain barrier. Climatic differences between the arid and desolate region east of the Cascades and the green lushness of the western slope become increasingly evident in this area. The highway enters HOME VALLEY, 54.1 m., a modern farming community, with a post office, cabins, a schoolhouse, and a few dwell- ings. In the forested hills near by are logging operations. At 55.5 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right on this road, which offers a vista of hills and the winding river far below, to Sa1nt Mart1ns' Hot Spr1ngs, 0.4 m. on the west bank of Wind River, opposite the mouth of Little Wind River and the dark, green-forested pyramid of Buck Mountain. It is set in an attractive glen overlooked by rows of white and green cottages. Hot mineralized baths are offered in an adjunct to Hotel St. Martins, a three-story white frame building. Sixty years ago the resort was opened by the St. Martins, an Indian family, descendants of whom operate it today. At 56.6 m. is a junction with State 8C, a gravel-surfaced road. Right on this road is CARSON, 1 m. (98 alt., 276 pop.), a few scattered buildings at the mouth of Wind River Valley. North from Carson, State 8-C crosses a crook in Wind River and follows its east bank. The two peaks of Mount St. Helens (L) and Mount Adams (R) rise above the surrounding elevations of the Cascade Range. Wind River dashes violently within con- fining canyon walls. At 8 m. is Trout Creek Forest Camp (1,100 alt.), in the Columbia National Forest, at a junction with a dirt side road. Left on this road 1.8 m. to W1nd R1ver Nursery and Forest Exper1ment Stat1on. The DeMolay organization of Portland, Oregon, contributes funds to the main- tenance of the station, which develops seedlings for reforesting lands denuded by fire and logging operations. North of the junction at 10 m. on the main side road is a junction with another dirt side road: Right on the dirt side road 13 m., rounding the slopes of South Butte (2,825 alt.) and Red Mountain (4,100 alt.), on the north, and BIG LAVA BED, on the east and south, to the Race Track Guard Stat1on. The dirt road skirts the lava bed to GOOSE LAKE, 18 m. On the shore of Goose Lake are curious imprints in the lava rock which appear to have been made by human hands and feet Their origin is not known and, together with Lemei Rock (5,927 alt.) (R), they are the subjects of Indian legends. On the main side road, 19 m., is L1ttle Soda Spr1ngs Forest Camp, in a
In the Mountains
- --- º - - of U. S. Forest Service MOUNT BAKER-
" -- --- - Photograph courtesy of Orville Borgersen SKIERS RESTING ON SLOPES OF MOUNT RAINTER - - SKAGIT BASIN Photograph courtesy of Seattle City Light Company - - - - -
MOUNTAIN CLIMBERS SCALING ICE WALLS NEAR SUMMIT OF MOUNTRAINIER Photograph courtesy of Rainier National Park Company -
- - - - - - - TROUT FISHING Photograph courtesy of Washington State Progress Commission
Photograph courtesy of Seattle City Light Company ON DIABLO LAKE (Excursion MOUNT ST. HELENS Photograph courtesy of Washington State Progress Commisiior,
Photograph by Bert Huntoon
Photograph by Oliver T. Edwards MOUNTAIN GOATS. CHELAN NATIONAL FOREST FLOWERS BLOOM AT THE EDGE OF RECEDING SNOW DRIFTS ON MOT'NT RAINIER Photograph courtesy of Rainier National Park Company
MOTHER BEAR AND CUBS, IN RAINIER NATIONAL PARK
region of mineral springs. A recreational area, with tables, stoves, water, and sanitary facilities, is located here. West of the junction, US 830 continues along the curving north bank of the Columbia River, on which stand beautiful summer homes. Steep cone-shaped rocks flank the road (R). STEVENSON, 59.8 m. (98 alt., 563 pop.), seat of Skamania County, on low bluffs above the river, spreads back against rolling hills. A beautiful town square slants up a hill, on top of which is a three- story hotel with a glassed-in porch. The Skaman1a County Court- house (R), on top of the hill, in the center of an expansive lawn, is a two-story, green-roofed, wooden structure erected in 1903. It has a tall, green belfry tower above the jail, and houses administrative offices and a courtroom. Next to the courthouse is the Stevenson Commun- 1ty Hall, a two-story building. On the courthouse lawn is a section, ten feet high and six feet in diameter, of a Petr1f1ed Sequo1a Tree. Behind the courthouse is a grade school and a two-story brick high school. A Spher1cal Rock at the entrance to the high school grounds (R) bears in rough characters the inscription: "H. B. Co. 1811." It is believed to have been a corner marker for an early Hudson's Bay Company boundary, but the Hudson's Bay Company did not enter this region till 1821. To the left, down the slanting hill, are the buildings of the business district; a number of warehouses stand alongside the railroad tracks. The town was founded by the Stevenson family who came from Missouri in 1880 to settle in the old town of Cascades near by. Driven from there by a flood in 1894, tnev platted Stevenson. West of Stevenson, the modern Br1dge of the Gods (L) (toll: 50c driver and auto; 10c pedestrian), 63.3 m., spans the Columbia River to Oregon. FORT RAINS BLOCKHOUSE (R), 64.4 m., was rebuilt by the Skamania County Historical Society in 1927 partly from old timbers that formed the structure erected by Major Gabriel Rains after the Indian Wars of 1856 and the Cascades Massacre. A band of Yakima, Klickitat, and Cascade made raids on two white settlements near Bradford Island, March 26, 1856. The besieged settlers withstood attacks for two days, until two forces from The Dalles, Oregon, commanded by Colonel Edward J. Steptoe and Lieutenant Phil Sheridan (later General Sheri- dan of Civil War fame) came to the rescue. West of the bridge, US 830 crawls at the base of the great crumbling cliffs (R) of TABLE MOUNTAIN (3,420 alt.). Through ridges and deep pits, numerous hot springs flow out of the near-by hills. NORTH BONNEVILLE, 65.0 m. (74.alt., 643 pop.), was named for Captain Benjamin Louis Eulalie Bonneville, who experienced amaz- ing adventures in the Rocky Mountains, California, and the Northwest as early as the year 1832. His journal, amplified by Washington Irving, was published under the title, Adventures of Captain Bonneville, U.S.A., in the Rocky Mountains and the Far West. The town marks the Washington side of Bonneville Dam and was born of an influx of
workers on the project. It grew from a wild, sparsely settled community into a boom town typical of those which have sprung up near con- struction camps. Short side streets, filled with mud during the rainy season and choked with dust during the summer, branch sharply from either side of the highway. Temporarily constructed cabin camps line the highway. The town relies entirely upon the pay roll of the dam for its liveli- hood; when construction work lags, it is affected at once. Business men, however, are optimistic about its future. The largest building is a large barn-like structure used as a dance hall. The town also has a small community church, a post office, a railroad station and several hotels, restaurants, and taverns. The Bonnev1lle Observat1on Tower, a square wooden structure built on stilts, offers a view of the dam, a large concrete masonry structure. From the tower, big MEMALOOSE ISLAND, once an Indian burial ground, is visible. A few years ago, when it became apparent that the backwater from the dam would submerge most of the island, the graves were removed. Left from the highway 200 feet to the ENTRANCE TO BONNE- VILLE DAM, (visitors 10-12, 1-4; guides furnished; Federal Police Service). The Adm1n1strat1on Off1ce is on the left. Authorized September 30, 1933, under the National Recovery Act, construction was begun immediately on Bonneville Dam by the Army Engineer Corps. It was opened by President Franklin D. Roosevelt on September 28, 1937. Smaller than the Grand Coulee Dam farther up the river (see Tour 1B), the project provides flood control for the lower Colum- bia River, creates electric power for northern Oregon and southern Washington, and, by its locks, aids water transportation through the Cascade rapids to the upper Columbia. Of the concrete gravity type, the dam has 18 vertical-lift, steel gates, 30 feet square, giving a spillway crest of 900 feet. The spillway is on the north side of Bradford Island, which divides the river into two channels at this point. On the south side are the powerhouse and navi- gation locks, connected to the spillway by a levee across the island itself. The dam backs the river upstream, creating a lake extending 40 miles to The Dalles, with a minimum depth of more than 30 feet. The navigation locks consist of a single chamber, 76 feet wide and 500 feet long, with a minimum depth of 27 feet at low water. The water above the dam, being 72 feet above the river level, necessitates a lift of 59 feet—the highest in the world at present (1941;. Fish ladders and elevators allow salmon to ascend the river through the dam, and it is claimed the annual $10,000,000 income derived from the industry will not be endangered. One hundred fish pools, 40 feet long, 15 feet wide, and 6 feet deep, and each a little higher than the other, spiral to the top of the dam. Water cascades down this 5,900-foot watery stairway. The fish elevators work on a principle similar to canal locks; as chambers are filled with water and salmon they are lifted automatically to upper-dam level and dumped. To pre-
vent fingerlings from being crushed in the giant turbine and generators as they make their way to the sea, the engineers have left openings large enough for the baby fish to pass through. West of North Bonneville along the north bank of the river, the shorelines reveal the slight rise and fall of the river, first effect of tidewater from the Pacific Ocean, 150 miles westward. The highway enters the broad valley that begins with the western slopes of the Cas- cade Mountains. Greenwood Cemetery, 65.9 m. (L), enclosed by a wooden fence, contains many graves of early settlers, Indian fighters, and Indians. Ancient iron fences surround individual plots, some the graves of soldiers stationed at Old Cascades. The cemetery was moved from a former site on the railroad right-of-way. Along this section of the route ran the old Portage Railroad; and Lower Cascades, original seat of Skamania County, was located in this vicinity. No trace of either remains. West of the junction, US 830 traverses a peninsula formed by the backwater of the Columbia. BEACON ROCK (L), 68.8 m., with fluted, almost perpendicular sides of columnar lava that rise about 900 feet from the edge of the river, is the second largest monolith in the world. Its summit is strewn with great blocks of red cinder and cloaked with stunted, deformed trees. From the entrance, a trail winds upward in zigzag fashion, leading over precarious-looking wooden bridges to the top of the conical- shaped rock. A defiant challenge to climbers, its "inaccessible" heights were conquered in 1901, when the banner of a Columbia River steam- ship company was raised as an advertising stunt. LITTLE BEACON ROCK (L) rears its scrubby head against the corrugated face of its big brother. The two monoliths are vestiges of material harder than the loose columnar lava plucked away by the rapacious early floods of the river. The Lewis and Clark Expedition camped at the base of the rock November 2, 1805, and again on the return trip April 8, 1806. West of Beacon Rock US 830 again affords scenic glimpses of the Oregon side of the river. The green-painted buildings of a CCC camp are arranged in orderly rows a short distance from the highway, 69.7 m. SKAMANIA, 71.3 m. (51 alt., 75 pop.), consists of a gas station, a general store, and a post office. Up the hill (R) a short distance from the highway are the three gray buildings of an attractive grade school with a large playground. In the hills in the background logging is carried on. West of Skamania the highway skirts the great frowning cliffs (R) of ARCHER MOUNTAIN. Of the many legends and folk tales that have grown up around these conspicuous cliffs, the leading ones deal with the "Hermit of Archer Mountain," who lived on top of a 2,000- foot cliff in a house built of materials salvaged from a wrecked river boat. The highway overlooks LOWER POND (L), 72.9 m., fed
by the backwaters of the Columbia River. Fishermen have told of an enormous sturgeon here, weighing perhaps 1.OO0 pounds, which has eluded the juiciest baits and the most ingenious nets. The road winds up and down through beautiful green country and wooded hills, and affords a view of silvery Multnomah Falls, on the Oregon side. PRINDLE, 76.4 m. (51 alt., 125 pop.), is a roadside stopping place composed of a store and a few scattered houses. The town was named for its first settler, a German sailor who planted an orchard and garden to supply the soldiers at Cascades in 1851. Many persons of Polish origin remained after construction of the Union Pacific R. R. in the seventies to form a community of small farms. Older residents still converse in Polish. Robert Prindle, son of the founder, is post- master here. West of Prindle, the route is on a slight grade overlooking the river. Towering tree-covered hills slope down to the swiftly moving Columbia on the Oregon side. FIR POINT (L) is a small,, rocky peninsula projecting into the river. Here, years ago, Indian mothers brought their babies in the springtime for the ceremony of uncradling, which included hiding the cradles to keep away evil spirits. Bindings, used by the Indians on the heads of their infants to make the skull slope back from the forehead, were also hidden in a cave as a part of the ceremony. US 830 follows a bench covered with a checkerboard of cultivated fields, in the shadow of MOUNT ZION (R). CAPE HORN, 79.4 m., is a steep jagged promontory from which sufficient rock and dirt have been blasted to permit passage of the highway. Perpendicular cliffs have been left. A snow shed protects the highway from snowslides and rockslides. Rock blasted from the road during construction covered a good portion of a farm in the valley. The highway widens at each end of the snow shed, providing parking space. The sheer drop of the cliff hundreds of feet below to the little valley nestling on the banks of the Columbia, is an awe-inspiring view, with a background of steeply wooded hills on the Oregon bank. MOUNT PLEASANT, 81.5 m. (48 alt., 15 pop.), beneath a mountain of the same name, is composed of a service station and a few houses along the railroad track. A few miles west of Mount Pleasant the highway penetrates an area of fruit orchards. WASHOUGAL (Ind. rushing water), 87.8 m. (48 alt., 1,267 pop.), is at the mouth of Washougal River. Shady trees line the road into town, the main street of which is bordered by frame buildings. Houses are scattered over a wide area on both sides of the river. The town was settled on part of the donation claim of Betsy Ough, wife of Richard Ough, a Hudson's Bay Company employee. Mrs. Ough, an Indian of the Waunaisses tribe, was a trusted friend of the early white settlers on the Columbia River. Washougal's major industrial plant (L) is the Washougal Woolen M1lls, 1st and Main Streets (visitors Mon. to Fri. 8-4). The plant is housed in a large gray frame building, in the rear of which
is a powerhouse. Fabrics of this mill are shipped to manufacturers throughout the United States. Many woolen novelties also are manu- factured. Entire families, each member an expert weaver, are often employed; some come from New England mills, others from Europe. West of Washougal US 830 crosses the Washougal River and spans the outlet of Lackamas Lake (R), formed by a powerdam backing up the waters of Lackamas Creek. Houses line both sides of the highway. The Crown W1llamette Inn, 89.9 m., is a hotel housing some of the employees of the paper mill in Camas. CAMAS, 90.3 m. (48 alt, 4,433 pop.), in a semicircle of evergreen hills dropping to cultivated prairie land bordering the Columbia River on the south, is a "City of Paper." Wide, concrete-paved streets and modern brick business and residential buildings give a pleasant, lively appearance to the town. The mill buildings and the ever-present odor of sulphite suggest the industrial background of the city. Construction of a sawmill by Jacob Hunsacker in 1846 on Lake Lackamas brought the first industrial activity to the district. First settlement was in 1860 near a sand bar where the camas, a blue-flow- ered, sweet-flavored bulb, grew prolifically; the village retained the name of this favorite food of the Indians. The growth of Camas was the direct result of paper manufacture. The uncertainty of paper delivery from eastern mills, because of slow sailing around Cape Horn and oxteam transportation across the country, long handicapped the newspapers of the Northwest. In 1884 construc- tion of a paper mill began on Lake Lackamas; after 18 months of operation, it was completely destroyed by a $150,000 fire. The mill was rebuilt the following year, with provision for new methods of pulp production and additional machinery. With its unlimited pulpwood resources, Camas grew as the factory expanded. The Crown-W1llamette Paper Company Plant, division of Crown-Zellerbach Paper Company (visitors 12-3 p.m. Man., Tues., 9 fl.7n.-3 p.m. Wed., Fri.; 9-12 Sat. Guides required; available for small fee. Children under 15 not allowed), NE. 4th St. and NE. Adams St., has 12 gigantic paper-making machines capable of producing more than 300 tons of paper, 5,000,000 paper bags, and 2,000 cases of tissue and towels daily. This industrial town is highly unionized, more than half its population holding union cards. Docks on the river front handle shipments of materials and products for the paper mill. Fruit from near-by prune orchards is packed and prepared for shipment by water and rail. Smelt fishing during the spring and salmon fishing during the summer also contribute to Camas' reve- nue. Pails, basins, and washboilers are used during the smelt run to scoop the tiny, oily fish from the streams (no license required for smelt fishing). The Camas Publ1c L1brary (open 1-9 weekdays), 417 NE. Cedar St., contains a collection of volumes dealing with the early history of the Lower Columbia region. The Pulp and Industr1al School, 3rd and Clark Sts., is con-
ducted by the Crown-Zellerbach paper mills from October to March. It offers technical schooling to employees and awards visits to Pacific Coast paper plants as scholarships. The collection in a House Museum (open by permission), 1600 Division St., maintained by James T. Self, an early settler, includes an Indian "fishkiller" of highly polished basalt, a stone moccasin last, not unlike a cobbler's, and an old cutlass once used at Fort Vancouver by the Hudson's Bay Company. LAKE LACKAMAS, in the northern section of the city, is a popular resort. The Camas Chr1st1an Church, NE. 6th Ave. and NE. Cedar St., is octagonal in shape and painted yellow. The western city limits of Camas overlook the dilated river channel, here dotted with sandy islands and bordered by silty banks. With loaded bateaux, voyageurs of the fur-trading days passed this point on their way to old Fort Vancouver. Ind1an Rock Carv1ngs are to be found on the banks of the Columbia (L) at 95.2 m.; and the Gentry Store (L) has a collection of arrowheads, stone bowls, and other utensils. FISHER, 96.3 m. (48 alt., 35 pop.), is a railroad center among orchard lands. A large camping ground near by has picnic facilities. West of Fisher is a junction, 98.4 m., with a dirt road. Right on this road to the BIDDLE FISH HATCHERY, 1.3 m., owned by Stephen Biddle, a student of Indian lore. The hatchery is surrounded by timber and enclosed by a wire fence hidden from the road. ELLSWORTH, 98.4 m. (48 alt, 60 pop.), is a small settlement around the Ellingsworth Company, which operates during the salmon run on the Columbia. West of Ellsworth prune orchards are abundant. In the spring their pink blossoms soften the landscape and their heavy, fragrant odor scents the air. Large drying bins for the ripe, picked fruit stand in each orchard. The State Game Bu1ld1ngs, maintained by the Department of Game, a fine group of white and green structures, were constructed with the aid of the Work Projects Administration. Twelve fish-breed- ing tanks are set in a green carpet of grass in front of the buildings. The main building, situated on a knoll immediately behind the outdoor tank, also contains breeding pools. Right of the main building are a residence and a service building. At 5th and Main Sts. is a junction with US 99 (see Tour 8e). VANCOUVER, 104.5 m. (75 alt, 18,788 pop.), (see Vancouver). Section b. VANCOUVER to JOHNSON'S LANDING, 112 m. US 830 North of VANCOUVER, 0 m., on wide Main Street, US 830 coincides with US 99 (see Tour 8e). At LONGVIEW JUNCTION, 41.6 m., 830 bears L. from US 99, spans the Cowlitz River, and follows California Way to a junction with Commerce Street; R. on Commerce to city center.
LONGVIEW, 45.2 m. (13 alt., 12,385 pop.), the first planned city in the Pacific Northwest, is one of the great lumber centers of the world. It occupies the tip of a 14,000-acre delta formed by the Cowlitz River on the east and the Columbia River on the south. To the west are wooded hills; northeast, contiguous to Longview, is Kelso. Seventy per cent of the population is employed in lumber mills. Little industrial activity is evident in the city proper; trim commercial buildings border wide, tree-lined parkways, and the residential district is set among lawns and flowers. Along the banks of the Columbia are mammoth mills, switch engines, boxcars, and freighters loaded with lumber. Connecting the Washington and the Oregon shores of the mile-wide Columbia is Longview Bridge, a steel structure completed in 1930. Before modern drainage methods were developed, the delta on which Longview stands was subject to seasonal floods from the rain-swollen Cowlitz River. Yet, because of its key position on the river, the Hud- son's Bay Company chose it as a site on which to build two warehouses in 1846-7 for the storage of hides, wool, furs, and the wheat raised on near-by clearings. In 1849 two American settlers, Jonathan Durbee and H. D. Huntington, took up claims near the present location of the city. Soon, other settlers joined them, some clearing land and starting farms, others turning to lumbering. By 1852 logging camps had sprung up, and their cuts were moved by sailing ships, which found no diffi- culty in making their way up the Columbia. On November 25, 1852, the memorable Monticello Convention was held here. Partly as the result of this and the preceding Cowlitz Con- vention Congress created the Territory of Washington, and in 1854 the Washington Territorial legislature formed Cowlitz County and made Monticello its seat. Though the town got off to a good start and made gains during the next ten years, the settlement was virtually washed away in 1866-7 by high water, and thereafter the fear of floods kept settlers away. The county seat was moved elsewhere, and most of the farms around Monticello reverted to swamps and brambles. A turn came in 1920, when R. A. Long, capitalist and lumber baron, having acquired a large tract of timber in the adjoining hills, decided to locate a model city on the site of old Monticello. The land was diked and an elaborate drainage system was installed. Sloughs and swamps were converted into sunken gardens and a chain of lakes was created in the heart of the city. A central square, streets and boulevards, residential and commercial districts, public buildings, schools, and a park were laid out, and the city was dedicated in 1923 and named Longview for its founder. By 1933 the city had 18 manufacturing establishments with an annual production valued at $3,824,550 and paying nearly $500,000 in wages. A difficult housing problem arose, since working people could not afford to buy property and build the elaborate homes required by the building restrictions.
In general, Longview is a fairly prosperous city. In addition to its lumber industry it is a market and shipping center and does some processing of farm products. It has an excellent school system, including a junior college, and a library, public parks, churches, hotels, railroad and bus stations, motion picture houses, and athletic facilities. Jefferson Square, west end of Broadway, a six-acre civic center, is an admirably landscaped park with broad drives and rhododendrons. Many of the vines and fruit trees in the park were planted in the fifties, when the tract was a part of the Seth Catlin donation land claim. The Commun1ty Church, 2327 Washington Way, was designed by R. L. Copeland, and completed in January 1926. It is constructed of yellow brick trimmed with granite, and has tall, arched windows of amber-toned glass. In the tower is one of the largest sets of chimes in the State, the gift of R. A. Long. Sacajawea Lake Park, between Kessler and Nichols Boulevard, surrounds crescent-shaped Lake Sacajawea. In its 70 acres, the park has more than 2,000 perennials, thousands of bulbs, 58 varieties of trees, and 4,000 shrubs. Small islands dotting the lake are connected by rustic bridges. It is a refuge for game birds, swans, and pelicans. The Subs1stence Homesteads, 34th to 38th Aves., between Penn- sylvania and Oak Sts., were established by the Federal Government in 1934 for 60 families of low-income workers. A model community of four-room and six-room houses was planned, with tracts as large as three acres for each house. The Weyerhaeuser T1mber Company Plant (open by appoint- ment), foot of Washington Way, is one of the largest sawmills in the world. There are four units which turn out products of fir and hem- lock: a planing mill, a red-cedar shingle mill, a pulp and sulphite plant, and a woodworking factory. One of the most interesting processes at the plant is the manufacture of a wood pulp from which paper, rayon, and cellophane are made. The Longv1ew Br1dge, foot of Oregon Way, connects Washington and Oregon. With a clearance of 195 feet and a central span of 1,200 feet, it is the longest-spanned cantilever bridge in the country, as well as the highest bridge over a navigable stream. It was opened to traffic March 29, 1930. The Long-Bell Lumber Company Plant (open by appointment), foot of Columbia Way, has a sawmill with a productive capacity of 1,800,000 board feet per eight-hour day. The buildings of the plant— sawmill, shingle mill, and woodworking units—occupy 78 acres; the total area, 643 acres, includes a 125-acre log pond. A dock 1,400 feet in length lines the water front. The mill smokestacks, 21 feet in diameter and 300 feet high, are visible for miles. The M & M Plywood Plant (open by appointment), near the Long-Bell mill pond, is devoted to another phase of lumber processing —the making of veneer from Douglas fir. The daily output of plywood is 160,000 square feet. The Longv1ew F1bre Plant, (open by appointment), SE. of
Long-Bell mill site, employing about 800 men and women, daily manu- factures 4,000,000 square feet of fibre board and 30 tons of Kraft wrapping paper, besides paper bags and corrugated boxes. US 830 continues on Commerce St. to Maple St.; L. on Maple to Washington Way, where Olympia Way intersects it. Right on Washington Way to Main St.; R. on Maine St. across Cowlitz River Bridge to 2nd Ave. is KELSO, 1.5 m. (26 alt., 6,749 poP-) («' Tour Se), at the junction with US 99. Left on Olympia Way to Ocean Beach Highway, US 830, which bears L. across flat country with numerous sloughs and inlets in dense growths of willows. During prohibition days this sparsely settled region, with its many creeks and heavy underbrush, was a haven for bootleggers. STELLA, 54.2 m. (12 alt., 298 pop.), a dairying and lumbering village, received its name from the daughter of Richard Packard, who in 1880 established a store and post office here. During August, salmon from the Columbia abound near the mouth of Germany Creek. Black clusters of scavenger birds feed on the fish that die after spawning. Several brightly painted buildings (L) constitute OAK POINT, 59.2 m. (94 alt., 177 pop.), where Mill Creek flows into the eddies of the Columbia River. EAGLE CLIFF, 60.2 m. (110 alt., 16 pop.), represented on the highway by only a shed, is a village lying L. beneath a cliff on the river bank. Here the world's first commercial salmon cannery was built in 1865. In the early days all the work was done by hand, and great losses were caused by the slowness of the process. Chinese were employed for the most part. COFFIN ROCK (L), 63.6 m., is a small promontory crowned with cedar and coniferous trees projecting into the river; here the Indians buried their dead in canoes. The canoes were placed high in the cottonwood trees, their sharp prows pointed to the west with every paddle in place. The deceased were wrapped in their robes and furs and their wealth in beads and trinkets was placed at their feet. They lay in the war canoes awaiting the flood of life which prophecy said would come in some day with the tide. The last of the canoes was seen about 1850. CATHLAMET (Ind. stone), 69.4 m. (340 alt., 621 pop.), a bustling river town and seat of Wahkiakum (Ind. tall timber) County, was thus named because of the rocky course of the river. Lewis and Clark in 1805-6 spelled it "Cathlamah" in their reports. Hotels, stores, and cafes border the crooked main street which follows the base of a steep hill overlooking the island-choked Columbia. Fishing, lumbering, canning, and trading are the major occupations. A short distance west of Cathlamet are a cheese factory, which produces some 600 pounds of fine cheese daily, and the International Wood Products Company Plant, which makes wooden containers for cheese products. Each day some 60,000 cheese boxes (made of spruce lumber, cut in blocks, kiln dried, edged, and cut to lengths) are shipped. The Wahkiakum and Cathlamet Indians built their Indian cedar
houses on the present site of Cathlamet. Panic-stricken by epidemics about the year 1825, the natives wandered homelessly about for several years. Some returned to old Cathlamet. John Wallaka (Ind. lizard) was one of the last to die. He asked to be buried in "a black diagonal suit, a blue shirt with pearl buttons, a red necktie and blue socks with white toes and heels." Left from Cathlamet, a ferry (infrequent) connects with PUGET ISLAND, 1 m. (800 pop.), a green rectangle five miles long and two miles wide, bisect- ing the channel of the Columbia. A network of roads covers the island, much of which has been diked with the aid of Federal funds. Dairying is the principal industry. A few of the Puget Island folk, a large percentage of whom are Scandinavians, work the Columbia and the adjacent waters of the Pacific for salmon and other seasonal fish. The island was named by Lieutenant W. R. Broughton, October 1792, in honor of Lieutenant Peter Puget, officer aboard one of Captain Vancouver's ships. It was referred to by Lewis and Clark as Sturgeon Island. Peppermint culture is profitable, with approximately 150 acres cultivated. The fragrant mint's dark green leaves, contrasting with their purple, pink, white, and violet flowers, are trucked to a central point and distilled into an aromatic essential oil. An acre of ground will often yield more than 50 pounds of oil, worth nearly $2 a pound. Among the festivals celebrated by the Puget Islanders are Norwegian Inde- pendence Day, May 17; St. John's Feast, June 24; and the anniversary of the landing of Leif Ericson in America early in October 1,000 A.D. Scandinavian delicacies such as lutefitk, paste jar, goat cheese, and sugar-sprinkled kaffebrod, are included in generous smorgasbord} (a kind of buffet lunch). Most of the festivities are livened with schottische and other folk dances, often executed to the raucous tone of the hardengerfiddle, an instrument with a resined wheel, motivated by a hand crank, which rasps against catgut strings producing melodies similar to a hurdy-gurdy. Several days of feasting mark the Christmas season. Jul Otta is a special candlelight service on Christmas Day. At 71.2 m. is a junction with State 12-D, a gravel-surfaced road which penetrates the valley of the ELOKOMIN RIVER. Picturesque SKAMOKAWA (Ind. smoke on the water), 77.7 m. (10 alt., 750 pop.), once called "Little Venice," is scattered about the mouth of winding, muddy Skamokawa Creek, which threads its way through a rocky gap to empty into the Columbia River. Ghost buildings cling to one bank of the creek, which during early settlement was the only means of transportation. A number of warped structures covered with circus posters, in the older part of town, are built on floats that rise and fall with the tide. The first co-operative creamery in the State is said to have been organized in Skamokawa in 1898. A shingle mill and rock quarry are active today. A county fair is usually held here in mid-September. The highway rubs against rock cliffs and meanders through back yards to emerge finally by way of a cut through a stony ridge. West of Skamokawa, US 830 enters the upper Grays River Valley. Dairy farms with unpainted, warped buildings, and a careless array of rail fences enclosing mud-splashed stumps, spread across the green meadow. After passing farms in the mountain valleys, US 830 climbs a steep winding stretch past a logged-off region, then into an area of virgin timber, where logging operation may be seen occasionally.
Over a bridge, 89.6 m., US 830 crosses the Grays River, named in honor of Captain Robert Gray (see History). West of the bridge it parallels the river, which rolls along the floor of the valley. Rich dairy pastures alternate with groves of alder, maple, and other leafy trees. GRAYS RIVER, 91.8 m. (112 alt, 40 pop.), trading and market- ing center for the adjoining dairy region, is a cluster of buildings beside old maples. High hills contact the town. A co-operative dairy, a church, a store, and a few other enterprises are housed in neatly painted, well-kept buildings. The income of the town is supplemented by near- by logging. The first forge brought into Grays River Valley is said to have pro- duced everything from ox yokes to dental forceps. The smith, H. P. Anderson, made the forceps for Thomas A. Holden and pulled his tooth. Holden purchased the forceps and became the chief "tooth- puller" of the settlement. West of the junction, the route descends into Deep River Valley with its thousands of acres of diked land tilled by Finnish fishermen and dairy farmers. At 98.9 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right on this road which runs on top of a dike. A narrow area of sloughs and swamps stretch L. to heavily wooded hills. Deep River, a silent, slow- moving stream, where logs from near-by camps are rafted, separates the road from stretches of wet pasture land. DEEP RIVER, 1.7 m. (113 alt., 301 pop.), center of a region of logging camps, is a cluster of impermanent-looking buildings edged between the river and the near-by hillside. There is a log dump in the town, and the great tires of heavy trucks have torn ruts in the dirt street. At 104.7 m. is a junction with State 12-B, a gravel-surfaced road. Left on this road is NASELLE, 0.9 m. (130 alt., 100 pop.), a dairying cen- ter in a sparsely settled district at the confluence of the Naselle and Deep Rivers. The town is named for a tribe of Chinook Indians who lived on the river banks. A State-operated salmon hatchery is here. South of Naselle on State 12-B is KNAPPTON, 7.9 m. (133 alt., 39 pop.), a cluster of ancient buildings around a ferry slip. The Knapptov-Astor1a Ferry (car and driver, $1; passengers, 25c; 4 times daily) crosses the Columbia River to Oregon. State 12-B proceeds southwesterly, ending in MEGLER, 10 m. (88 alt., 10 pop.), (see Tour gd), where it forms a junction with US 101. (see Tour yd). At 112 m. is JOHNSON'S LANDING, a crossroads point believed named in honor of Captain James Johnson, the first Columbia River bar pilot, who was drowned in 1854 when his sloop capsized during a storm. Johnson's Landing marks the junction of the western terminus of US 830 with US 101 (see Tour gd), 16 miles E. of the Pacific Ocean.
(Priest River, Idaho) — Newport — Spokane — Colfax — Pullman — (Lewiston, Idaho); US 195. Idaho Line to Idaho Line, 151.8 m. Great Northern Ry. parallels route between Newport and Spokane; Northern Pacific Ry. between Spokane and Pullman. Concrete-paved or bituminous-surfaced roadbed throughout. Hotel accommodations in cities and larger towns; auto camps, some with trailer facilities, in and near cities and towns. This route, known locally as the Pend Oreille-Palouse Highway, roughly parallels the Idaho-Washington Line. US 195 cuts across the southwest corner of Pend Oreille County and runs almost due south through Spokane and Whitman Counties, swinging slightly to the east near the end of the route at the Idaho Line. It continues to Lewiston, Idaho, where it forms a junction with US 410 (see Tour 2a). The route traverses two distinctly contrasting regions, different in topo- graphy, vegetation, climate, economy, and cultural development, but held together by a common dependence upon Spokane, the hub city of the Inland Empire. Section a. IDAHO LINE to SPOKANE, 49.1 m. US 185 The northern section of the route winds through sparsely settled foothill country cut by small streams, dotted with lakes, and inter- spersed with prairies and shallow valleys. A hundred years ago these hills were covered with open forests of lodgepole and ponderosa pine, tamarack, and fir; the prairies were unbroken expanses of bunch grass; and the watercourses ran full and clear. Fur traders and trappers, who early in the nineteenth century began to trickle into this region, could find an abundance of beaver and muskrat along the lakes and streams and plenty of deer and bear in the woods. The few thousand Indians who hunted, fished, gathered roots and berries, and grazed their ponies on the bunch grass prairies had not disturbed the balance of nature. But these first nomadic white men were the vanguard of the army of settlers to follow. Before the century had closed, fur traders and trap- pers had become history, the Indians, much diminished in numbers, had accepted the confining life of the reservation, and the lumberman, the railroad builder, and the farmer were well on their way toward trans- forming the countryside. Today, most of the virgin timber has been cut, and the settlements which sprang up and flourished briefly around sawmills and logging camps are little more than crossroads villages, except where the cutover land has been cleared and successfully con- verted to agriculture. Even the most casual visitor will be able to catch some hint of the
geological story of this region. Along the greater part of the route, the land is marked by outcroppings of granite rock, formed under pressure, and then forced upward by successive convulsions of the earth. Occa- sional lava cliffs and patches of scab rock appear toward the end of the route. One of the latest chapters was written by the glaciers, which about 20,000 to 30,000 years ago retreated, after grinding their way southward, scouring out valleys, piling up hills, and leaving behind new lakes, dammed-up streams, and other evidences of glacial action. US 195 crosses the IDAHO LINE, 0 m., and the Pend Oreille River, or Clark Fork, five miles west of Priest River, Idaho. Not until 1906 was a bridge constructed across the river at this point. The new Interstate Bridge was built in 1926. NEWPORT, 0.5 m. (2,124 alt., 1,174 Pop.), seat of Pend Oreille County, is laid out on the gentle curve of a hill that slopes northeast down to the sweeping arc of the Pend Oreille River. Rising in the rugged Bitter Root and Rocky Mountains, this stream drains west- ward into Washington, and then, bending abruptly northward, flows into British Columbia, only to loop back to join the Columbia River almost directly upon the Canadian Boundary Line. In spring the river, fed by the rapidly melting snows of the mountains, rises rapidly, and the swollen waters creep dangerously near the top of the banks, some- times overflowing them in places and flooding lowland areas. The danger of floods has been greatly increased by careless methods of log- ging and by the destructive fires that have swept over the logged-off areas and killed the protective covering of humus and vegetation of the watershed. Newport began in the eighties as a village on the Idaho side of the river. The few settlers obtained their supplies in Sand Point, on Lake Pend Oreille, and transported them either by overland trail or down the river by raft or canoe. In 1890 a boat was put into this service from Lake Pend Oreille, and landings were constructed on the Wash- ington side of the river. Stimulated by the mining boom in the Idaho mountains and by the extension of logging operations, both Old Town and New Port, as the Washington settlement was called, began to grow. Stores and saloons were opened, and Cottage House became a favorite stopping place for miners and prospectors. By 1892 the Great Northern Railway had laid its rails into New Port, and within a year the town was linked with the rapidly growing city of Spokane some 50 miles to the south. Expansion followed quickly; in a few years a sub- stantial business district had been built along the river front and the residential area was beginning to creep up the hillside. Putting an end to the rivalry that existed between the towns on both sides of the river, the United States Government officially wiped Newport, Idaho, off the map, retaining only Newport, Washington. The report reads: "Newport, Idaho, moved 3,175 feet to Newport, Washington." Although farming and mining contribute to its economic life, New- port today depends primarily, as did its growth in the past, upon logging and the manufacture of lumber products. The mills of the Diamond
At 37.7 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here across a rolling prairie dotted with bull pine and up a long, winding grade to the summit of MOUNT SPOKANE (5,208 alt.) and MOUNT SPOKANE STATE PARK, 21 m. Many years ago Francis H. Cook, pioneer Spokane newspaper editor, acquired land on the summit of the moun- tain, built a cabin there, and began a campaign to have the area set aside as a recreational center. For a long time the only way to reach the summit was by trail; then a poor road was built; in recent years the construction of a good road with an easy grade brings the park within an hour's drive from Spokane. From the lower pine-covered slopes the road winds upward, skirt- ing the great ledges of weather-stained granite that jut out from the mountain side. Many species of wildflowers grow profusely on the forest floor, and in the open spaces are clumps of mountain ash, heavily loaded with scarlet berries in summer and early fall. The slopes are often carpeted with Indian bear grass, its great white tufts like ice cream cones on two-foot stalks. The bare summit on the mountain is a mass of light gray granite flecked with mica. On bright, clear days the granite appears almost white and the mica flashes in the sunlight. It is not surprising that the local Indians came to associate the mountain with the supernatural; and the Spokane (Ind. Spehkunne, sun people) apparently felt that they had a peculiarly close spiritual association with the sun. On the summit of the mountain a lookout point offers a sweeping view of the Inland Empire. Here is a burnished-copper sun ball, four feet in diameter, mounted on a pedestal of native stone and concrete; on a clear day, it reflects the sun like a beacon. The ball was the gift of Spokane club women. In recent years Mount Spokane has become a popular skiing center. Easily accessible from Spokane and other population centers in eastern Washington, the snow-covered slopes attract hundreds of skiers every week-end during the winter months. Ski tournaments are held here by the Spokane Ski Club. South of the junction, US 195 swings slightly southwest across a windswept prairie broken occasionally by shallow draws and low knolls. During the dry summer months the land is an expanse of yellow grass except where the prairie has been put under cultivation. But in the spring the tufted, blue-green bunchgrass is sprinkled with golden sun- flowers and deep blue lupine. Clusters of low-growing sand verbena, which flowers in lovely variegated colors, and clumps of gracefully swaying and fragrant serviceberry and wild cherry. At 43.3 m. US 195 joins with US 395 (see Tour 6a), from this point the two highways coincide to Spokane. The Lane of Remembrance (see Tour 6a), as this stretch of US 195-395 is known locally, runs through an open forest of bull pine. Here and there are basaltic rocks, evidence that the Columbia lava flow extended this far eastward. SPOKANE, 49.1 m. (2,039 alt., 122,001 pop.), (see Spokane). Section b. SPOKANE to THE IDAHO LINE, 102.8 m. US 19s This section of US 195, known as the Inland Empire, or Palouse, Highway, traverses one of the most fertile farming areas in the United States. Practically the entire route runs through rolling hills, treeless except for clumps of willow and brush along the creeks and in the swampy lowlands. When the first settlers arrived, they found the entire region covered with lush bunchgrass, waist high in places. Here
Indian bands hunted, dug roots, and pastured their ponies. Quick to recognize the productivity of the soil, the newcomers staked claims, strung miles of barbed-wire fences, and set to work breaking the sod, in the meantime turning their cattle out on the range to fatten. Within a few years, thousands of acres had been planted to wheat and were producing exceptional yields. Wheat continues to be the chief crop of the region. In the spring the entire countryside, seen from an eminence, is a checkerboard of green fields and dark brown squares of fallow land. Vagrant winds sweep over the hills toward the horizon, billowing the maturing grain like the waves of a heavy sea. By midsummer the wheat has ripened. Then the combines come, most of them tractor-operated, but a few still drawn by many teams of horses. Cutting wide swathes as they swing around the fields, they leave in their wake small piles of golden straw and dun-colored sacks of wheat. Seldom is a crop failure known, for the rainfall, although rarely more than 20 inches, comes in the fall and winter months when it is most needed, while the harvest months are almost always rainless. The basis, however, for the productivity of this region is the soil. The top layer, averaging 10 to 12 inches, is rich brown silt, often exceedingly dark because of its humus content. Next is a lighter brown layer 30 to 40 inches deep. A third layer, from 50 to 75 feet in depth, is hardened light-yellow silt, or loess, which was deposited many thousands of years ago in lake bottoms. Apparently, all three are of the same material, differing only in hardness and in humus content. These layers rest upon a fourth layer of granite or basalt with no inter- vening material. For a long time geologists have puzzled over the mystery of how this Palouse soil was formed. One explanation was that the soil was decayed basalt. Today, opinion leans toward the theory that it was formed in the Pleistocene age by the depositing of wind- borne dust blown from arid to more humid regions, where it stuck. Whatever the origin of the famous Palouse, there can be no question as to the part it has played in the development of this section, nor about the urgency of checking the disastrous erosion which has already wrought great damage. West of SPOKANE, 0 m., US 195 turns sharply left down a steep grade and runs southward along the east bank of Latah Creek, a small stream that flows northward through a deep narrow valley to a confluence with the Spokane River. Clustered along the creek are several pleasantly shaded frame houses; surrounding them are small orchards, pasture lots, and truck gardens, many of them owned by Chinese and Japanese. Although it is within the corporate limits of Spokane (see Spokane), this district is distinctly suburban in character and seems isolated from the residences of the city proper which cling to the rim of the canyon, their terraced lawns creeping timidly a short distance down the precipitous sides. To the north, straddling the valley, is the gracefully arched, concrete Latah Creek Br1dge, and beyond
At 37.7 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here across a rolling prairie dotted with bull pine and up a long, winding grade to the summit of MOUNT SPOKANE (5,208 alt.) and MOUNT SPOKANE STATE PARK, 21 m. Many years ago Francis H. Cook, pioneer Spokane newspaper editor, acquired land on the summit of the moun- tain, built a cabin there, and began a campaign to have the area set aside as a recreational center. For a long time the only way to reach the summit was by trail; then a poor road was built; in recent years the construction of a good road with an easy grade brings the park within an hour's drive from Spokane. From the lower pine-covered slopes the road winds upward, skirt- ing the great ledges of weather-stained granite that jut out from the mountain side. Many species of wildflowers grow profusely on the forest floor, and in the open spaces are clumps of mountain ash, heavily loaded with scarlet berries in summer and early fall. The slopes are often carpeted with Indian bear grass, its great white tufts like ice cream cones on two-foot stalks. The bare summit on the mountain is a mass of light gray granite flecked with mica. On bright, clear days the granite appears almost white and the mica flashes in the sunlight. It is not surprising that the local Indians came to associate the mountain with the supernatural; and the Spokane (Ind. Spehkunne, sun people) apparently felt that they had a peculiarly close spiritual association with the sun. On the summit of the mountain a lookout point offers a sweeping view of the Inland Empire. Here is a burnished-copper sun ball, four feet in diameter, mounted on a pedestal of native stone and concrete; on a clear day, it reflects the sun like a beacon. The ball was the gift of Spokane club women. In recent years Mount Spokane has become a popular skiing center. Easily accessible from Spokane and other population centers in eastern Washington, the snow-covered slopes attract hundreds of skiers every week-end during the winter months. Ski tournaments are held here by the Spokane Ski Club. South of the junction, US 195 swings slightly southwest across a windswept prairie broken occasionally by shallow draws and low knolls. During the dry summer months the land is an expanse of yellow grass except where the prairie has been put under cultivation. But in the spring the tufted, blue-green bunchgrass is sprinkled with golden sun- flowers and deep blue lupine. Clusters of low-growing sand verbena, which flowers in lovely variegated colors, and clumps of gracefully swaying and fragrant serviceberry and wild cherry. At 43.3 m. US 195 joins with US 395 (see Tour 6a), from this point the two highways coincide to Spokane. The Lane of Remembrance (see Tour 6a), as this stretch of US 195-395 is known locally, runs through an open forest of bull pine. Here and there are basaltic rocks, evidence that the Columbia lava flow extended this far eastward. SPOKANE, 49.1 m. (2,039 alt., 122,001 pop.), (see Spokane). Section b. SPOKANE to THE IDAHO LINE, 102.8 m. US 195 This section of US 195, known as the Inland Empire, or Palouse, Highway, traverses one of the most fertile farming areas in the United States. Practically the entire route runs through rolling hills, treeless except for clumps of willow and brush along the creeks and in the swampy lowlands. When the first settlers arrived, they found the entire region covered with lush bunchgrass, waist high in places. Here
Indian bands hunted, dug roots, and pastured their ponies. Quick to recognize the productivity of the soil, the newcomers staked claims, strung miles of barbed-wire fences, and set to work breaking the sod, in the meantime turning their cattle out on the range to fatten. Within a few years, thousands of acres had been planted to wheat and were producing exceptional yields. Wheat continues to be the chief crop of the region. In the spring the entire countryside, seen from an eminence, is a checkerboard of green fields and dark brown squares of fallow land. Vagrant winds sweep over the hills toward the horizon, billowing the maturing grain like the waves of a heavy sea. By midsummer the wheat has ripened. Then the combines come, most of them tractor-operated, but a few still drawn by many teams of horses. Cutting wide swathes as they swing around the fields, they leave in their wake small piles of golden straw and dun-colored sacks of wheat. Seldom is a crop failure known, for the rainfall, although rarely more than 20 inches, comes in the fall and winter months when it is most needed, while the harvest months are almost always rainless. The basis, however, for the productivity of this region is the soil. The top layer, averaging 10 to 12 inches, is rich brown silt, often exceedingly dark because of its humus content. Next is a lighter brown layer 30 to 40 inches deep. A third layer, from 50 to 75 feet in depth, is hardened light-yellow silt, or loess, which was deposited many thousands of years ago in lake bottoms. Apparently, all three are of the same material, differing only in hardness and in humus content. These layers rest upon a fourth layer of granite or basalt with no inter- vening material. For a long time geologists have puzzled over the mystery of how this Palouse soil was formed. One explanation was that the soil was decayed basalt. Today, opinion leans toward the theory that it was formed in the Pleistocene age by the depositing of wind- borne dust blown from arid to more humid regions, where it stuck. Whatever the origin of the famous Palouse, there can be no question as to the part it has played in the development of this section, nor about the urgency of checking the disastrous erosion which has already wrought great damage. West of SPOKANE, 0 m., US 195 turns sharply left down a steep grade and runs southward along the east bank of Latah Creek, a small stream that flows northward through a deep narrow valley to a confluence with the Spokane River. Clustered along the creek are several pleasantly shaded frame houses; surrounding them are small orchards, pasture lots, and truck gardens, many of them owned by Chinese and Japanese. Although it is within the corporate limits of Spokane (see Spokane), this district is distinctly suburban in character and seems isolated from the residences of the city proper which cling to the rim of the canyon, their terraced lawns creeping timidly a short distance down the precipitous sides. To the north, straddling the valley, is the gracefully arched, concrete Latah Creek Br1dge, and beyond
it two high steel railroad bridges. Below these bridges is High Bridge Paxk, an open pine woods cut by roads and bridle trails. For yean, LATAH CREEK was known as Hangman Creek, the name deriving from the hanging of Qualchan, a Yakima chief, by Colonel George Wright in 1858. In 1855, after the Walla Walla council (fee Walla Walla), Kami akin and other Yakima chiefs warned the intruding white men to stay out of the Yakima country or be killed. Shortly thereafter, Qualchan, a nephew of Kamiakin, with five other Indians encountered and killed a number of white men on the Yakima River. For this act Qualchan became a marked man. In the guerilla warfare of the next three years, both Qualchan and his father, Owhi, took leading parts. Shortly after the Horse Slaughter Camp incident (see Tour 1a), Colonel Wright encamped on Latah Creek and summoned those Indian chiefs who had not yet made satis- factory treaties to a council. In response Owhi rode alone into the camp to discuss the possibility of peace. Having been led to disclose where Qualchan was camping, Owhi was promptly seized and put in irons. Then Wright sent a message to Qualchan that unless the son surrendered within four days the father would be hanged. What happened after this cannot be exactly determined. In his report for September 24 Wright stated briefly: "Qualchan came to see me at 9 o'clock, and at 9:15 he was hung." It seems possible, however, that when Qualchan came to the camp he was unaware that his father was a prisoner; perhaps he had been sent there by Kamiakin to discover the kind of treatment Wright intended to mete out to the recalcitrant Yakimas. Numerous objections were raised to the name Hangman Creek and, as a consequence, the legislature changed the name to Latah Creek. The highway swings across Latah Creek and, continuing to parallel it, winds up an easy grade. Bull pine, with a scattering of fir and cedar, cover the lower slopes, becoming sparser near the top of the grade. The Latah formation has had an interesting geologic history. Floods of lava advancing over the Columbia Plateau were checked by a line of hills near the present site of Spokane. Unable to enter the valleys to the east, the lava flowed south, thus damming their drainage. In time layers of clay and shale to a depth of some 1,500 feet accumulated on the bedrock of the lakes formed in the valleys behind these lava dams. In these Miocene lake beds are preserved fossil remains. Glaciers, however, advanced as far as this region, diverting many of the streams, including Latah Creek, southward; and, except where dams held back the rush of water, most of the soft clay and shale were washed away. After reaching the top af the grade, US 195 cuts across a rolling plateau. Scattered farmhouses surrounded by small fields of wheat, patches of scrub pine, and stretches of scabland border the highway. As the route leads southward the soil becomes perceptibly darker and the patches of lava rock appear with less frequency. Here the Palouse country begins. SPANGLE, 19.1 m. (2,432 alt., 203 pop.), a village of weather-
stained houses clustered about a few brick buildings, is one of the oldest settlements in the Inland Empire. The first house built in the vicinity was erected in 1862 and for years served as a stopping place on the Mullan Road. In 1872, William Spangle, a Civil War veteran, and his family arrived from Walla Walla. Before the end of the summer Spangle, a skilled craftsman, with the aid of his two sons, had erected a house of hewn logs, finished with carefully made sills, frames, and doors, and roofed with pine shakes. Everything in the house but the square, hand-wrought nails brought from Walla Walla, and the floor- ing obtained from Scranton and Downing's little sawmill on the Spo- kane River (see Spokane), was the work of the Spangle family. During the summer of 1872, settlers continued to arrive in such numbers that Spangle decided to start a school. With true communal frontier spirit, all set to work building a schoolhouse. Within a day, the walls and roof were finished, and before long the structure was completed and furnished with handmade desks and benches. This occa- sion called for a special celebration consisting of a day of feasting, horse racing, and story telling, topped off in the evening with a dance, for which music was furnished by an orchestra consisting of an organ, three violins, and a harmonica. South of Spangle, US 195 begins to twist through the hills of the Palouse country. On either side of the road, an almost unbroken expanse of wheat fields and fallow land stretches toward the horizon. Until recent years, the usual method of cultivation was to plow the stubble under completely, a practice tending to result in great damage by erosion. In the spring, when the snows were melting rapidly, muddy torrents cut deep gashes in the hillsides and converted unprotected draws into hideous gullies. Equally destructive when the fields were dry were the strong westerly winds which swept tons of powdery soil away. Various State and Federal agencies have aided in making farmers aware of the waste involved in allowing erosion to proceed unchecked; and they now engage in such conservation practices as disking, contour farming, and seeding gullies to erosion-resistant crops. PLAZA, 27.5 m. (2,353 alt., 250 pop.), a score of frame buildings, straggles along the highway and railroad track. Dominating the village are several wheat warehouses and a large grain elevator. In late summer trucks piled high with sacks of grain roll into town, and the farmer, his annual crop safely harvested, begins to study the quotations of the grain market and to figure his profits or, as frequently happened in recent years, his losses. The route continues southward, skirting a rocky, pine-covered ridge that marks a divide from which some streams flow northward and others in a southwesterly direction. Here the terrain is marginal in character, resembling in some respects the lava formations of the Columbia Basin to the west and in others the Palouse country. ROSALIA, 34.7 m. (2,237 alt., 598 pop.), in the narrow valley of Pine Creek, a self-sufficient modern town, is the marketing and servicing center for a prosperous farming area. Numerous stores, cafes,
garages, and other business structures flank the main street from which side streets, bordered with locust, maple, and poplar trees, lead east- ward to the residential part of town. South of Rosalia US 195 crosses PINE CREEK, 35.5 m., over a concrete-and-steel bridge. A short distance east of the highway is the hill where Lieutenant-Colonel Edward J. Steptoe and his troops made a stand against the Palouse Indians and their allies on May 17, 1858. Early in May the expedition, consisting of part of a company of infantry with two howitzers and three companies of dragoons, set out from Walla Walla to march through the Palouse country, in search of the Indians who had raided the Walla Walla Valley in April, and to investigate conditions in the Spokane and Colville areas. Finding that the northern tribes were hostile and united, and feeling that his troops were inadequately armed, Colonel Steptoe decided to withdraw. Before this withdrawal could be accomplished, however, the Indians attacked. After a fight-and-retreat running battle in which both sides suffered casualties, the troops escaped under cover of darkness from the hill where they had made their final stand, crossed Ingossomen Creek, now called Pine Creek, and dashed southward across the Snake River to safety. To commemorate the Battle of Te-Hots-Nim-Me, or the Battle of Rosalia as this skirmish is usually called, a five-acre tract has been set aside on the hill to form Steptoe Memor1al Park. In the center of the park is a 26-foot monument of blue-gray granite, polished to the smoothness of glass. Some of the old settlers say that the battle was actually fought a mile southwest of the monument and that the fort- ified army camp was a mile north of it At 36.2 m. is a junction with a concrete-paved road, State 3, which bears the name Inland Empire Highway from this point. This road offers an alternate route to Pullman. Swinging southeast, State 3 winds around the slopes of low hills that are cultivated to their very summits. On every hand is evidence of the stability of agriculture in this region: except for an occasional splash of yellow-blooming mustard, the fields are almost free of weeds; houses, barns, and outbuildings are neat and substantial; fence posts are erect and securely set and the strands of barbed wire are taut; new automobiles and trucks are seen very frequently. OAKESDALE, 10 m. (2,300 alt., 590 pop.), spreads over a shallow valley. A small, compact business district centers in a few blocks along the highway, and along the railroad tracks are grain elevators, warehouses, and feed stores. Shading the quiet residential streets are large trees, many of them planted by the early settlers. On Saturday and during the planting and harvesting seasons the streets are lined with cars and all the stores are busy. GARFIELD, 22 m. (2,4.85 alt., 674 pop.), like most of the towns of Whitman County, has an air of permanency. The men and women who first settled here came to find homes. Some came directly from the south and east; others hesi- tated for a short time in the Walla Walla country, crossing the Snake River after the danger of attack by Indian bands had passed. Many of the present- day farmers are the children or grandchildren of the original homesteaders. Garfield, served by good roads and three branch rail lines, is an important shipping and marketing town. South of Garfield, the highway winds down an easy grade into the fertile Palouse River valley. For many years wheat was the most important crop of
this area, but recently considerable acreage has been planted to peas, which are harvested green for canning or for the market, allowed to ripen for seed, or processed to produce split peas, green and dried. PALOUSE, 31 m. (2,433 '.02* poP-), third largest city in Whitman County, is the commercial hub of the North Palouse River valley. The stream, which runs through the center of the town, is bordered by several blocks of one-story and two-story business buildings, and warehouses, industrial plants, and the railroad tracks. Wide paved streets lead to pleasant residential dis- tricts on the slopes of the hills that crowd down upon the town. In the course of its existence Palouse has had a varied history. When Modoc Smith settled here in 1875 he found a well-defined trail running from the fertile valley, called Our Home by the Palouse Indians, eastward to the for- ested mountains of Idaho, where the natives went on hunting, fishing, and berry-picking expeditions. Among the early settlers were some of the Quantrell bands, outlaws who were active in Missouri and other border states during the Civil War. Later, when settlers began to come into the country in increas- ing numbers, and mining in Idaho began to boom, Palouse became a stage stop and outfitting point. In the eighties a flour mill and several sawmills were operating, and logs were floated down the river from the heavily for- ested Idaho mountains a few miles to the east. Today Palouse has several pea-processing and canning plants. South of Palouse State 3 bends slightly toward the west through fields of peas, wheat, and forage crops. All the land is under cultivation except the narrow strips along the roadway, where dandelions, grasswidows, wild iris, roses, larkspur, thistles, goldenrod, and other flowers bloom in season. KAMIAK BUTTE PARK (R) 34.8 m., an undeveloped area of several hundred acres, centers around a rocky butte upon which is found the only standing timber in the region. Trails lead to the summit; which affords a fine panoramic view. At PULLMAN, (see below) 46 m., State 3 joins US 195. South of the junction with State 3, US 195 climbs a slight grade and then descends with a sweeping curve to the valley of Thorn Creek, a tributary of Pine Creek, to THORNTON, 43.6 m., a few small stores, a score of houses, and wheat warehouses strung along the rail- road tracks. With hardly a break in the wheat fields the highway crosses Thorn Creek and continues toward the Snake River. Within the experience of the present generation of farmers a major transition has taken place in the methods of cultivating, seeding, and harvesting. Headers, bind- ers, and threshing machines which puffed and snorted as they expelled the chaff from blowers into golden pyramids, marked a definite tech- nological advance. Large crews continued to be necessary, however, and unless a cook wagon accompanied the threshing outfit, the farm- er's wife, with the aid of extra help, still had to prepare during har- vest time enormous quantities of meat and gravy, home-baked bread, potatoes, peas, and corn on the cob, apple pie, and coffee for the hungry harvest hands. Then came the horse-drawn combine, which made its way along the slopes to the sound of cracking whips. Today, on the larger ranches, the one-operation, tractor-drawn thresher cuts its wide swath around the field, threshing as it goes, and pouring the grain into sacks, which are automatically discharged on the ground in piles of five or more. A few men perform the work that formerly required the strenuous labor of a crew of a score or more, and the migratory har- vesters, once known as "bundle stiffs," now seek other employment.
CASHUP, 48.7 m. (2,328 alt., 50 pop.), an important wayside stop in pioneer days, was named for its first settler and storekeeper, James H. Davis, widely known as "Cash-up" Davis because he extended credit to no one. Now the town is marked by a small store, a grain elevator, and a few nondescript houses. In Cashup is a junction with a dirt road. Left here is STEPTOE BUTTE (3,613 alt.), 4 m., the highest point between Mica Peak, southeast of Spokane, and the Blue Mountains. This pyramid- shaped mass, topped by an almost solid expanse of granite and basaltic rock, is without trees or shrubs, except for a few wild cherry and serviceberry bushes on its northern slope. The lower slopes are grass-covered and sprinkled with flowers in spring and early summer. Near the summit the grass is stunted and only a few sunflowers find sufficient moisture to survive. A wagon road, not much more than a trail, winds up to the summit. From here on clear days the entire Palouse country can be seen—fields of grain, corn, and peas; patches of yellow stubble and dark-brown summer fallow; farm buildings flanked by clumps of evergreens and small orchards; and the canyon of the Palouse River, easily traceable by the dark line of trees along its course. In 1888, Davis conceived the idea of building a resort on the bit of level land at the summit of the butte. He erected a two-story hotel there, with an auditorium and an observatory on the roof equipped with a telescope. After the death of Davis in 1895, the hotel fell into decay and finally burned to the ground. The whole butte was sold by the sheriff in 1902 for approximately $2,000. STEPTOE, 52.7 m. (2,300 alt., 172 pop.), a trading center for farmers, lies on the floor of a wide valley. During harvest season trucks and wagons, piled high with sacks of grain, lumber into town to unload at the warehouses and elevator along the tracks, where box- cars stand on the sidings. In Steptoe is a junction with State 11-c, an improved road. Right here in a northwesterly direction about 12 m. is ST. JOHN (1,800 alt., 526 pop.), a prosperous shipping and marketing town on the Union Pacific Railroad. EWAN, 20 m. (1,200 alt., 50 pop.) sprawls along the track of the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad. In Ewan is a junction with a dirt road: Right here is ROCK LAKE, 1.7 m., ten miles long and two miles wide, the southernmost and largest of a chain of three lakes. Except for the marshy lower end, where tules and cattails grow, it is hemmed in by steep rocky cliffs of volcanic origin. Numerous caves are found at the northern end and along the western side. For a number of years Kamiakin, the Yakima chief who in the fifties took a leading part in the resistance to the white settlers, lived here. In 1861, urged by his homesick wife, he returned to Washington from voluntary exile among the Crow Indians. Eventually, Kamiakin was crowded off his farm, and about 1880 he died in his camp near the Palouse River. The route continues southward, now skirting the base of a hill, now dipping through a shallow valley. After traversing several miles of wheat, corn, and pea fields, the highway descends gradually into a canyon, crosses the Palouse River, and then ascends an easy grade. At 62.8 m. is a junction with US 295, a bituminous-surfaced road. Right here on US 295 in a south-southwesterly direction through an area of large farms, usually planted to wheat. At widely spaced intervals are farm-
houses, flanked by huge barns. Long steep grades, sweeping curves, and stretches of level road mark the route. DUSTY, 18.5 m. (1,400 alt., 40 pop.), midway between Colfax and the Snake River, is a cluster of service stations and a garage and cafe1 fringed by a score of frame houses. South of Dusty the country begins to level out between diminishing and receding hills. For several miles the highway follows Alkali Creek, dry except during spring freshets. Then hills begin again, low-lying and planted to wheat or left fallow. Since this section of Whitman County is swept by strong southwesterly winds, strip farming is widely practiced. The hills grow steeper, and the highway twists and turns as it descends a steep grade. Some of the slopes are too steep to cultivate; here cattle and sheep graze. Sagebrush begins to appear, and here and there are rocky cliffs and ledges. The Snake R1ver Br1dge, 36.1 m., a steel span, straddles the river, which is very wide at this point. For many years prior to the completion of the bridge, a ferry operated by Robert L. Young, connected Whitman and Gar- field Counties. Leaving the river, US 295 winds up a steep, rocky grade, crosses Deadman Creek, again climbs until it reaches the summit of the grade, about 1,000 feet above the level of the river, and then winds downhill through wheat fields and range, where cattle and sheep graze. DODGE, 47 m. (700 alt., 40 pop.), (see Tour za). COLFAX, 63.6 m. (1,966 alt., 2,853 P°p.), seat of Whitman County, spreads along both sides of the Palouse River. Hemming in the town are rounded hills, formerly covered with bunchgrass but now largely given over to wheat growing. Main Street, nearly a mile in length, parallels the river, which occasionally goes on a rampage, when the spring runoff is exceptionally rapid, and floods the lower levels of the town. The business district, centered along Main Street, is a conglom- eration of modern brick and concrete structures and dingy, old build- ings, some of them dating back at least to the nineties. The residential districts also reflect contrast of yesterday and today—dilapidated frame houses, show places of early years, adjoin substantial, well-built, mod- ern residences. Colfax is, in fact, an old town, but it has not lost its vigor. When the ban against settlement in this region was lifted in 1858, settlers swarmed in over the trails which trappers, traders, missionaries, and soldiers had worn through the Palouse hills; but it was not until 1870 that the first settler, J. A. Perkins, took up land in the part of the Palouse River valley where Colfax is located. Perkins was soon joined by H. S. Hollingsworth, Captain James Ewart, and others. The settle- ment, at first called Belleville, was renamed in honor of Schuyler Colfax, Vice President of the United States during Ulysses S. Grant's first term. For a few years it was almost exclusively a cattle center, and during this period gun fights were everyday events and sometimes there were lynchings. By the end of the eighties, however, Colfax was deriving its main income from wheat, and had left behind its turb- ulent youth. Its history has since been marked by expansion rather than change, for, although other crops are grown in considerable quan- tities, wheat continues to be the main resource of the Palouse country;
and Colfax, like other Whitman County towns, is prosperous or hard- pressed depending on the wheat harvest and market prices. South of Colfax US 195 veers slightly to the east and winds around low, rounded hills. Here are some of the finest farms in the county. PULLMAN, 79.6 m. (2,345 alt., 4,417 pop.), home of the State College of Washington, and a commercial, grain storage, and shipping center, lies on the eastern edge of the wheat belt, only six miles west of the Idaho Line. On three sides of the town are the fertile, treeless hills of the Palouse, and on the east, beyond a rolling plain, are the forested foothills of the Moscow Mountains. Flowing through the town in a northwesterly direction is South Fork, a branch of the Palouse River. The business district of Pullman centers at the intersection of Grand Street, identical with US 195, and Main Street, once the route of an Indian trail, and spreads over a hollow formed by three valleys. Modern stone, brick, and concrete buildings line the paved streets, with a fewr older structures standing here and there. Adjacent to the business area on the northwest is the industrial section, where numerous grain eleva- tors, produce houses, and warehouses border the many railroad sidings. Streets, often winding and steep, run from the business center to attractive residential districts which spread over seven small hills. Pullman began in the late seventies when Bolin Farr, a young cattle- man, and two others filed homestead claims here. In rapid succession two stores, a tavern, a sawmill, a land agency, a school, and a church were established as settlers came to Three Forks, the name given the townsite when it was platted in 1882. Two years later the town was renamed for George Pullman, the sleeping-car magnate. In 1885 the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company's railroad was completed as far as the town, and in 1888 the Northern Pacific's branch was extended from Spokane. Succeeding years were marked by the rapid expansion of farming in the surrounding area and a corresponding growth of Pullman. Newspapers started and failed; twice the town was nearly destroyed by fire; artesian wells were developed. De- pressions came, with the accompanying low price for wheat, failure of business houses, and closing of banks; but recovery followed, and slowly the town grew into the modern city of today. Pullman is the commercial and cultural nerve center for the agri- cultural area around it. Its stores supply the local farmers with machinery, tools, automobiles, seed, house furniture, clothing, food, equipment, and services. But besides being a prosperous trading town, Pullman has another life which it derives from the State College of Washington. The thousands of students who flow into the town dur- ing the school year build a world of their own there, and the influence of the institution flows out into the surrounding countryside. Shortly after Washington became a State, a commission was appointed to select a place for an agricultural, land-grant college. When the citizens of Pullman learned that the commissioners were due to visit their town, word was sent out for everyone to appear
in the streets on the day set, in order to create an impression of great bustle and enterprise. The strategy proved successful. The commis- sioners found Pullman with the air of a boom town—cattlemen on horseback, farmers in their buckboards, pedestrians crowding the side- walks and stores, two artesian wells spouting. The city offered 150 acres of land and $12,000 in cash, and on January 13, 1892, the Washington Agricultural College opened its doors as a co-educational institution to 46 students. Twenty-five years later the name was officially changed to the State College of Washington. The State College of Wash1ngton is situated between Campus Ave., College Ave., Oak St., and College Farm. The main entrance is at Thatuna St. and Campus Ave. Since the college opened in 1892, it has grown from one building and a registration of less than 100 students to the second largest educa- tional institution in the State, with about 4,000 students. The college is housed today in several large, modern red-brick buildings, grouped in harmony with a landscape of park-like woods, flower-bordered walks, and spacious lawns. Although started as an agricultural college, it has expanded its curriculum to include arts and sciences other than those related to agriculture: engineering and mechanical arts; mining and geology; home economics; veterinary medicine; pharmacy; education; music, literature, and fine arts; physical education and military science and tactics. Supplementing the usual classroom and laboratory work, a practice farm and an experiment station provide the opportunity to put theory into practice. The E. A. Bryan Hall, a three-story, red-brick structure, with a square tower rising two stories above the main facade, is the center of extracurricular activities other than athletics. The south wing con- tains the College Aud1tor1um, which has a seating capacity of 1,175, a serviceable stage, and a pipe organ. The entire north wing is occupied by the College L1brary (open 8-10 weekdays, 2-6 Sun., special hours in summer), second largest land-grant college library in the Nation not supported by endowment. There are more than 330,000 bound volumes and approximately 1,500,000 pieces of unbound material. The building was named for President Emeritus E. A. Bryan, who served as active head from 1893 to 1916. College Hall, a four-story building, houses the departments of English, Business Administration, Pharmacy, and Education. The print shop and offices of The Evergreen, student publication issued thrice weekly, are in the basement of College Hall. The Adm1n1strat1on Bu1ld1ng, a four-story structure, is the cen- tral structure of the group. In it are the principal administrative offices and the Extension and Placement bureaus. Rogers F1eld and Athlet1c Plant includes the men's and women's gymnasiums and the field house; here, too, is a regulation- size football field. Rogers Field is an eight-acre area with a quarter- mile cinder track, a horseshoe-shaped stadium capable of seating nearly 25,000, a baseball diamond, tennis courts, and a golf course.
Other buildings are VAN DoREN HALL, occupied by the depart- ments of Music and Speech, HoMe EconoMics BUILDING, Science AND ARTs BUILDING and Science HALL, the MUSEUM, Wilson HALL, the MECHANIC ARTs BUILDING, and FINCH MEMORIAl Hos- PITAL. The STATE FARM includes six soil-conservation plots located on the campus. Among the chief activities carried on here are experiments in plant breeding—the farm has had much success in developing new varieties of wheat suited to the soil and climate of the Palouse country. Many different crops are analyzed, and experimentation is conducted in tillage and crop rotation. Branch stations are maintained at Lind, Long Beach, Prosser, and Puyallup. The STATE College ExPERI- MENTAL STATION, a 200-acre farm, located three miles northwest of Pullman on the Pullman-Palouse Highway, has developed new methods of farming. A soil-conservation NURSERY is two miles southeast of Pullman on the highway to Moscow, Idaho. South of Pullman, US 195 swings southeast toward the Idaho Line. Wheat fields continue to line both sides of the highway. In the dis- tance are the blue-green Moscow Mountains. COLTON, 93.9 m. (2,564 alt., 269 pop.), is a village of well- kept lawns, shaded streets, and substantial buildings, neatly arranged on a large flat bordering the main street, identical with the highway. UNIONTOWN, 96.7 m. (2,575 alt., 332 pop.), so nearly resem- bles Colton that the two have been called sister towns. The Old Collins RoADHouse (R), 96.8 m., stands at a fork in the road. The barn and some of the outbuildings are still occupied, but there is little to remind one of the days when this was a stopping point for stages and express riders. The route continues southeast, winding down a grade to the IDAHO LINE, 102.8 m., ten miles north of Lewiston, Idaho, the junction of US 195, US 95, and US 410 (see Tour 2a). IIIllllllllllllllllllllkillllllllllllkilllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll Tour 4A Newport—Cusick—Ione—Metaline Falls—(Nelson, B. C.); State 6. Newport to the Canadian Line, 76.4 m. Bituminous-surfaced or graveled roadbed throughout. Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific freight line parallels route. Limited hotel accommodations and few camps.
Throughout practically the entire route, State 6, often called the Pend Oreille Highway, parallels the Clark Fork River, which bisects Pend Oreille County, one of the most sparsely populated in the State. Swinging in a westerly direction from Newport, the highway climbs for a few miles and then, turning to the north, winds along the west side of the river as far as Metaline Falls. Here it crosses to the east bank and continues northward to the Canadian Line. The route is marked by a succession of logged-off and forested hills, stump ranches, valley farms, and small mill and mining towns. Ages ago this region was covered by glaciers, which ground their way south- ward, forcing the river to reverse its direction. When the glaciers retreated, the river resumed the northward course. North of NEWPORT, 0 m. (see Tour 4a), State 6 leads through heavy forests of pine, tamarack, and fir. Rising from the deep cleft of the river's channel are benchlands, a series of ascending terraces, which break into steep, rugged mountain slopes. East of the river the Kaniksu National Forest extends into Idaho. After climbing for a few miles the highway dips sharply down to the benchlands. This is a region of cut- over lands, with stumps, snags, and small second-growth trees. At the beginning of the century, a vast forest spread over these foot- hills and up the mountain slopes. In the spring, when the heavy blanket of snow melted, the water level of the river, and of the numerous small streams draining into it, rose; but serious floods were rare, the dense woods and the underbrush holding back part of the water. Within a generation, however, logging operations have denuded much of the region, and fires have destroyed what remained of the protective cover- ing. Today most of the small streams are silt-laden torrents in the spring, but turn to dry channels as summer advances. DALKENA, 11.4 m. (2,000 alt., 25 pop.), an almost deserted vil- lage, stands slightly above the river. On both sides of the tracks of a branch line of the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railway are the remains of a big lumber mill that burned in 1935—the planer, the dry kiln, and the burner, all stripped of machinery, and the charred remains of the mill itself. A few dilapidated houses and a little schoolhouse are scattered up the hill. In 1902 the Dalton and Kennedy Sawmill was built, and for a number of years the town prospered. Even before the destruction of the mill, however, the supply of timber was nearing exhaustion. Still visible in the river are jam breakers, resembling lean- to huts on pilings; and below is a quiet lagoon where a few years ago thousands of logs floated. Along the route at frequent intervals are stretches of blackened hill- side, sprinkled with charred snags and logs, residue of the destructive forest fires. By midsummer the trees are dry as tinder and require only a chance spark from a donkey engine, a burning match carelessly dropped, or a bolt of lightning to burst into flame. A tiny blaze fanned by dry winds will become a roaring, moving wall of reddish flame and black smoke. An army of firefighters, with shovels, axes, and dynamite, do what they can to check the fire, but before a blaze is brought under
control, it usually has destroyed many square miles of timber and brush, homes, and even small towns. Even many miles away the air is heavy with smoke, through which the sun is seen as a smoldering red disc. At 16.6 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right here is USK, 0.2 m. (2,051 alt., 100 pop.), -with stores, a post office, and a service station, along the flats west of the river. Some logging is still being done in the vicinity, but the merchantable timber is almost exhausted. The history of the district around Usk is in a measure typical of the county. Isolated from population centers and off most rail lines, this region was not opened to logging operations until about the beginning of the century. Exploita- tion was rapid, boom times and depressions alternating with the fluctuation in the prices and the demand for lumber. Rapidly logging operations ate into the forests, leaving behind large areas of stump lands, which were then offered at about ten or twelve dollars an acre. Land-hungry men and women, seeing a possibility of realizing the American dream, bought, cleared, and attempted to farm this land, little realizing that it costs from one to three hundred dollars to clear a single acre. Even when cleared the land was often unproductive, because of its gravel or clay composition. Many families moved elsewhere; those who remained, disheartened and dis- illusioned, struggled on, trying to make a living by growing potatoes and forage crops, selling milk and butter, and, if any trees remained, by cutting cord- wood, frequently the farmer's best crop. Much of the land around Usk is now cleared of farmers and will be returned to the status of timber land. The side road continues eastward over a bridge to the site of St. Ignatius Mission and the KALISPEL INDIAN RESERVATION, 2 m. Here on 5,000 acres live about 100 Indians, most of them very poor. About the middle of the nineteenth century Father de Smet and Father Hoecken built a mission near the bank of the river. One spring, high water destroyed the buildings and washed away most of the soil. The mission was not rebuilt. At 18.5 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right here to CUSICK, 0.5 m. (404 pop.), surrounding the tall, aluminum- painted water tower and the black stacks of the Diamond Match Company's plant. The streets of Cusick jog to conform to the line of the fence around the mill yard. The town, named for Joe Cusick, a homesteader of the early nineties, was started in 1902. North of the junction, the highway passes a succession of lumber- yards, traverses a wide level valley rimmed by hills, where forested areas alternate with fenced pastures, and descends by a circuitous course to a lower benchland. Here are a few small orchards, fields of timothy and redtop, and a few dairy farms. JARED, 28.6 m. (2,060 alt., 20 pop.), with a post office, a tavern, and a general store, clings to the side of the road. Here the mountains close in on the valley, and the river flows quietly for a short distance between its rocky walls. The highway, continuing in a generally northerly direction, swings slightly eastward, crowded to the very edge of the river by the encroach- ing mountains. Pine and tamarack grow along the steep hillsides and, rooted in narrow ledges, lean over the brink of the canyon. Most of the merchantable timber has been logged in the immediate vicinity, but in the river log booms can be seen occasionally. BLUESLIDE, 37.5 m. (2,067 "lti 80 pop.), a few neatly painted
houses surrounded by gardens and small orchards, is a center of valley farms and dairy ranches. North of Blueslide, the highway alternately climbs steep slopes, curv- ing sharply around jutting rocks, and descends sharp grades. Along the route are evidences of abandoned logging operations—dismantled mills, empty houses, the bed of a railroad spur line where the track has been torn up. IONE, 51.5 m. (2,095 alt., 594 pop.), the second largest town in the county, is largely dependent on the sawmill of the Panhandle Lum- ber Company, which employs about 150 workers. About a mile north- east of town is some good skiing terrain, and the winter festival of the lone Ski Club is a popular local event. In 1906 an English engineer built a Portland cement plant about one and one-half miles north of lone. This venture, one of the first attempts to make cement in this State, failed, and in 1934 the aban- doned plant was destroyed by fire. The narrowing channel of the river is visible at 53.9 m.; here is the approach to BOX CANYON, the purple-gray portals of which stand out sharply. The canyon is 1,200 feet long, and the rocky walls range from 20 to 100 feet in height. The white water flows with extra- ordinary rapidity through the narrow gorge. Logs, which are still sent down Box Canyon, whirl in the narrow corridor before they go boom- ing over Metaline Falls (see below). At 58.5 m. is Sweet Creek Br1dge. Dark forests of pine and fir are spotted with the golden-brown of tamarack. On a high embank- ment, State 6 crosses the 5,000-foot tunnel of the American Lead and Zinc Smelting Company development, 59.5 m. The Pend Oreille Mine and Metal Company's plant is the chief industrial development at METALINE, 60.5 m., on the west bank of the Clark Fork River. State 6 ascends a slow grade north of Metaline. At 65-1 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left here 10 m. to the west bank of Z Canyon, 18 feet wide and 400 feet deep; at 11 m. is Gardiner Cave, which may be explored for 600 feet. In the cave are stalactites and stalagmites and other beautiful formations. Two large fluted pillars, dividing the main passageway, display all the colors of the spectrum, with violet and pink predominating. Numerous nacreous pillows rise from a few inches to several feet. In another section a curious formation resembles a frozen waterfall; over it hangs a canopy of glistening icicles of lime. Crystal formations hang like chandeliers from many points on the ceiling. State 6 crosses the Clark Fork River on a high narrow bridge, 66.1 m. to METALINE FALLS, a cascade with a 19-foot descent. At the foot of the falls is Dudenay Trail, one of the most often used of the fur-traders' trails. David Thompson, who twice made the trip to the falls, recorded the name of the Indians of the region, the Kalispelus. METALINE FALLS, 66.4 m. (1,925 alt., 316 pop.), occupies a rocky, sloping bench on the east bank of the Clark Fork River. The town was founded in 1910, and the promotion of the Mammoth and Morning mines brought the first settlers to the site. Silver, lead,
cement materials, fire clay, and lime are found in this region. Mining activities, as elsewhere in the State, have known periods of boom and decline. The Grange and the Nonpartisan League have considerable strength in the Metaline Falls vicinity. It is said that, in its time, the I.W.W. had great influence in this region, even among the farmers. Important plants are those of the Lehigh Cement Company, the Pend Oreille Mines and Metal Company, American Lead and Zinc Company, and the Metaline Mining and Smelting Company. Two hydroelectric plants supply power for municipal and industrial use. At 63.9 m. is a junction with two side roads. Right here on a bituminous-surfaced road to SULLIVAN LAKE (camp grounds; resort; fishing and boating facilities). Left on a graveled road to the GRANDVIEW MILL, the concentrator of the American Lead and Zinc plant. At 72.4 m. is a junction with a trail. Left here 1.5 m. to the east bank approach to Z CANYON (see above). The Customs and Immigration station at the Canadian Line is reached at 76.4 m. iininiiiD Tour 5 Davenport — Hunters—Kettle Falls—Marcus—Northport—Velvet— (Paterson, B. C.) ; State 22. Davenport to the Canadian Line, 121.8 m. Graveled or bituminous-surfaced roadbed; dangerous curves; narrow roadway. Accommodations limited except in one or two larger towns; service stations at widely spaced intervals. This route traverses one of the most sparsely settled and most isolated parts of the State. Leading directly northward, it runs through hilly wheat lands, marked here and there by patches of scrub pine, sage- brush, and scablands, until it winds down a steep grade and across the Spokane River at a point about two miles east of its confluence with the Columbia. North of the crossing, the route continues upward through rugged hills to practically treeless benchlands. Along the east bank of the Columbia is a broken fringe of peach and apple orchards; the arable benches are largely planted to wheat, and the steeper slopes are given over to grazing. Some lumbering is still being carried on in
the pine- and tamarack-covered foothills. Scattered throughout the region are small mines, and also abandoned mines that were worked in the seventies, eighties, and nineties, when on nearly every lonely creek some miner patiently washed the gravelly sands for gold. Today most of the mining is in hardrock, although some small-scale placer operations are being carried on. Cutting across US 395, State 22 continues northeast along the east bank of the Columbia, which here cuts a tortuous channel through granite and other hard rocks to Northport and the Canadian Line. Ages ago volcanic eruptions and glacial action left their marks deep upon this region, which includes the northern limit of the lava flows and the southern limit of the glaciers. Some of the most thrilling pages of Northwestern history were written about this area; and again history is being made in the con- struction of the Grand Coulee Dam (see Tour 1B) and the creation of one of the largest man-made lakes in the world. As a result, a mass migration is taking place, for the sites of ten towns, the homes of some 3,000 persons, will be entirely flooded by the rising waters. In 1934 surveyors began their work in the reservoir area above Coulee Dam, running lines along the Columbia and tributary can- yons to determine the water level of the huge artificial lake. Although the normal level of the lake-to-be will be approximately 1290 feet above sea level, the actual height of the dam, 1310 feet above sea level, determines the lake shore. When the work of surveyors was com- pleted, the immensity and intricacy of the problems ahead became clear. Almost 100,000 acres of land had to be acquired by the Govern- ment and made ready for a lake bed. More than 5,000 buildings were to be demolished or moved. Ten towns with postoffices—Keller, Lin- coln, Peach, Gerome, Inchelium, Figgord, Daisy, Kettle Falls, Boyds, and Marcus—were doomed. Railroad lines, factories, and nearly 7,000 town lots had to be bought. More than 200 miles of highway, 26 miles of Great Northern trackage and roadbed, and 14 new bridges had to be built. It will cost the Government approximately $10,000,000 to acquire all property in the area and another $10,000,000 for clearing and reconstruction work. These problems are all in the hands of the United States Bureau of Reclamation. Much of the work has already been done, but much more is still to do. Where old landmarks have been destroyed, it is hoped that gardens and orchards, beautiful homes, and new cities will rise in the reclaimed areas, for an estimated pop- ulation of 1,200,000. North of DAVENPORT, 0 m. (see Tour la), State 22 traverses an uneven plateau, broken here and there by small hills. The greater part of this area is planted to wheat. Most of the farms are large, and, although the houses and barns are usually weatherworn and dilapidated, the land is well cultivated. Gradually the terrain becomes more rugged, and the hills, partially covered by scraggly bull pine, crowd closer to the highway. Alarmed by passing automobiles, plump ground squirrels, numerous in this section, tumble into their burrows with shrill cries.
At 13.2 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left here in a northwesterly direction, up a steep grade through second- growth scrub pine to slightly rolling terrain. On either side of the road are wheat lands broken by patches of range and grass-covered hills. Neat farm- houses are flanked by large barns, windmills, numerous outbuildings, small orchard and garden tracts. A white schoolhouse nestles at the foot of a hill. Near by are an old log cabin, relic of pioneer days, a steepled, white church, and another schoolhouse. LINCOLN, 10.5 m. (1,8co alt., 200 pop.), a short distance from the con- fluence of the Spokane and Columbia Rivers, will be moved to higher ground when the waters rise behind Grand Coulee Dam. The peach orchards along the river below Lincoln are already being uprooted and burned. Right from Lincoln on a dirt road is the S1te of the Un1ted States Army Post, Fort Spokane, erected in 1881. For a time it was occupied by a small detachment of infantry, but as the Nez Perces on the Colville Reservation (they were military prisoners after the Chief Joseph War of 1877) were giving no trouble, the fort was abandoned in the early years of the twentieth century. Here the Spokane River cuts its way towards the Columbia. North of the junction, State 22 begins to wind down a steep grade on the west side of the narrow, deep Spokane River Canyon. Sharp curves (caution; dangerous when wet), rocky cuts, precipitous cliffs, and patches of timber on high hills mark the route. For several miles it skirts the western rim of the river; now and then a crudely made road leads off to some ranch house hidden in a deep draw between the hills. Drab farmhouses, in windswept yards, cling to the steep hillsides or cower behind protecting bluffs. Dead and dying orchards, old log cabins, the staring windows of deserted houses, all point backward to pioneer days. Seen from the vantage point of De T1ll1an Br1dge., 23.1 m., a steel structure at the bottom of the steep grade, the country is wild, rough, and beautiful. Hemming in the narrow rocky canyon are jagged hills, green in early spring and sprinkled with wildflowers. At their base is a narrow rugged valley, through which flow the angry blue waters of the Spokane River. Now the highway begins to climb, twisting and turning through the draws between the hills. A backward glance from some safe point at the top of the grade is well worth the few minutes consumed; below, the river makes its tortuous way through the deep canyon, and beyond it are quiet valleys and rolling yellow-brown hills. Northward the highway winds and climbs, with short intervening stretches of level road. Familiar things take on added significance in this sparsely settled expanse—a line of white birch trees, a man on horseback seen against the horizon, a small Catholic church of wood and stone cemented with red mortar, a gas station, cattle feeding by a haystack, a stand of timber. Gradually the valley begins to open, as the route nears the Columbia River. FRUITLAND, 36.8 m. (1,831 alt., 35 pop.), was founded in 1886. At one time, this district, once called Spring Valley, was also called Robbers' Roost; and it is said to have been one of the toughest hell holes in the State in early days, a rendezvous for desperadoes and cattle thieves.
Fruitland will not be affected by the dammed-up waters of the Columbia, while Gerome, a few miles southwest, will be wiped out. The Old Queen mine here still employs a dozen men. HUNTERS, 41.2 m. (1,61o alt., 200 pop.), at the end of a dan- gerous grade, is a bustling little town above the boulder-strewn east bank of the Columbia. A small, compact business center is fringed by frame houses, a neat white church, and a dance hall. Across the river the high bluffs rise, chalky-white in brilliant sunshine. Roughly paralleling the river, State 22 threads its way northward. On the east, the Huckleberry Mountains are a blue-green line; on the west, beyond the Columbia, which can be seen through the trees, is the Kettle River Range about 20 miles distant. North of CEDONIA, 44.8 m. (1,500 alt., 26 pop.), the route runs through a draw and up a grade. Hills of greatly varying height and contour border the highway. Most of this area has been logged off, but much is again forested with young pine, fir, and tamarack. At BISSELL, 50.9 m. (1,800 alt.), are three temporary buildings of a reforestation project. When the river is at flood level, DRIFTWOOD ISLAND, at 56.7 m., serves as a harbor for drifting logs and uprooted trees. GIFFORD, 57.1 m. (1,250 alt., 39 pop.), was the trading point for several poultry breeders and orchardists of this district, until dust storms, cloudbursts, low prices, and unseasonable weather drove them away. The village, named for James O. Gifford, a pioneer of 1890, will soon lie under ninety feet of water. Left from Gifford across the river (ferry: day rate, 50c; night rate, $1) is INCHELIUM, first called Buffalo and later Troy. Since the site will be under 135 feet of water when Coulee Dam Lake reaches its final level, the inhabitants are beginning to move to the benchland, where the town, which is an Indian agency, will take new roots. Timber and brush and old buildings are already being removed or burned. DAISY, 60.8 tn. (1,235 alt-, 80 pop.), a scattering of old business buildings and houses on a hillside, will also be abandoned when the water rises. In early days, placer mining attracted many to the upper Columbia and tributary streams. Near Daisy are two small silver-lead mines, the Tempest and the Daisy. Some dragline placer operations are still yielding meager re- turns. Considerable farming and cattle ranching are carried on in the surrounding country. State 22 winds northward along the benchland above the river, which is deep and placid at this point. The west bank is marked by a series of benchlands, gargantuan steps leading to the irregular hills beyond. To the northeast rise the saw-toothed Huckleberry Mountains. Orchards, farms, and stands of tamarack, pine, and fir border the highway. This route along the east bank of the Columbia was followed by John McLeod, superintendent of the Hudson's Bay Thompson River
District, when in 1826 he drove the first herd of cattle to be brought into this Northwest region through hundreds of miles of Indian country to Fort Colvile. At 71.6 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left here 0.5 m. to the point where the Columbia flows into narrow Rickey Canyon. At 73.3 m. is a junction with another dirt road. Right here is the S1lver Queen M1ne, 2.5 nr., a small mine that has been worked for about 40 years. The concentrates are shipped by truck to Keilogg. Idaho, for smelting. The owner of the mine, J. S. Budd, a Seventh-Day Adventist, refuses to sell unless the prospective buyer promises to observe Saturday as a day of rest. North of the junction the highway traverses rugged terrain, part- ially a semidesert waste, relieved by patches of second-growth ever- greens and a fringe of irrigated apple orchards, their pipelines arching down to the river. KETTLE FALLS, 75.6 m. (1,300 alt., 560 pop.), a thriving town with broad main street, modern hotels and business buildings, and an airfield near by, stands on a flat above the river. It is another of the doomed towns, for the backwaters of Coulee Dam will cover it to a depth of 30 to 35 feet. The settlers here planned to move, but in doing so, to retain the town's identity. They have accomplished this object through an amazing bit of strategy. About four miles north of Kettle Falls is Meyers Falls, a village of approximately 100 population. When citizens of Kettle Falls knew their town was doomed to be flooded, they asked Meyers Falls to vote for consolidation, and a majority of the populations of the two towns voted accordingly. Kettle Falls then annexed a 60-foot strip of land that paralleled the highway between the two towns, and later a second strip completely surrounding the town of Meyers Falls; and then it started to move its citizens. When the vote of consolidation came, a majority vote retained the name of Kettle Falls. The two post offices still exist, but probably this problem will be solved when the floodwaters cover the site of the original Kettle Falls. North of Kettle Falls the route swings eastward for a short dis- tance, State 22 coinciding with US 395 (see Tour 6a). At 78 m. State 22 and US 395 separate again. State 22, the main route, turns left across the Colville River meadows. At 81.7 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here to the S1te of Old Fort Colv1le, 0.5 m. Erected in 1826, this fort, named for Lord Colvile, served the Hudson's Bay Company for many years (1826-71). With its history is interwoven the lives of John Work, Arch- ibald and Angus McDonald, and other factors of the post. Around the fort, stock raising, farming, milling, and trading began. In 1853 Angus McDonald entertained Governor Isaac Stevens and Captain George B. McClellan at the fort. "I had fifty imperial gallons ... to entertain the gentlemen," wrote McDonald. "The governor was rather fond of it. 'Mac' he said, 'this is power- ful wine.' The captain put his arm around my neck and whispered in my ear:
'Mac, my proud father, too, was at Culloden,' and . . . slipped from the sofa to the floor." MARCUS, 83.0 m. (1,260 alt., 393 pop.), six miles above Kettle Falls, will disappear beneath 50 or 60 feet of water. The town will be moved to a higher bench about a mile and a half farther north, near the big plants of the Spokane-Portland Cement Company and the United States Gypsum Company. A new schoolhouse has already been built at a cost of $135,000. The town, the oldest in Stevens County, was named for Marcus Oppenheimer, first settler and pioneer merchant. In 1859 the British Boundary Commission built comfortable barracks here. Oppenheimer used these barracks until 1881, when, after the withdrawal of American troops, the buildings were removed. Around Marcus is a farming and dairying region. There is some mining and considerable prospecting along the river and in the near-by hills. North of Marcus, State 22 leads through brush-covered hills above the Columbia River Valley. Until recently the route led, twisting and turning, along a narrow ledge at the top of sheer cliffs, hemmed in on the right by steep mountain walls. This twisting road, known as the Seven Devils, with seven switchbacks, was abandoned when the new highway was cut through at a higher level. Along this part of the river, Chinese miners worked so diligently in the sixties and seventies that every trace of soil was sluiced away; nothing remains on the fantastically gullied slope except huge boulders and barren rock. The Spokane-Portland Cement Plant (R), 88.3 m., a large concrete structure, manufactures and ships considerable quantities of cement. A mine back in the hills furnishes the rock for the mill. In EVANS, 89 m., is a plant (L) operated by the American Gypsum Company. From the quarry on the hill opposite the plant, an elevated cable carries raw material to the mill. A screen hangs across the road to protect traffic from falling boulders. North of Evans the highway, following the river, winds between narrow benches, rising to rugged hills, dotted with pine and tamarack, or western larch—a graceful deciduous tree with long, slender branches thickly covered with soft short needles. In the autumn, these needles turn a rich golden brown. Another tree occurring in the upper valley is the western yew; its tough-fibered wood was esteemed by the Indians for making paddles and other smaller articles. Much of the rock in this region is granite, which was forced upward under great pressure during the Pleistocene age. Vegetation between Kettle Falls and the Canadian Boundary has been stunted, or in some cases destroyed, by fumes from a large smelter at Trail, British Columbia. These fumes tend to follow down the valley of the Columbia, settling to the ground along the way, especially when humidity is high. Farmers are seeking compensation from the owners of the smelter for damaged orchards and ruined fields. Seldom out of view for any considerable length of time, the green-
blue river flows between sloping banks. When the water is low in late summer, these sandy banks and jutting gravelly bars resemble ocean beaches. NORTHPORT, 112.3 m. (1,333 alt., 391 pop-), spreads along a valley below Silver Crown Mountain. On the right rises the white- brick chimney of the smelter, now closed, which in former years employed 500 men. Now many of the houses are vacant and falling to pieces. The United States Customs and Immigration is housed in a building near the Great Northern Railway track. Today there is a little activity in the lumber industry. A sawmill, approximately 13 miles out of town, employs about 50 men during the summer months. A few piles of lumber and logs line the railroad track. Here the Long Lake Lumber Company has cut thousands of pine and tamarack trees, which are excellent for ties and poles. When the Columbia River has backed up behind Grand Coulee Dam, the waters will lap at the edge of Northport. North of Northport the highway crosses the Columbia River and runs through a narrowing valley into hilly terrain. VELVET, 121.3 m. (1,600 alt., 50 pop.), is a border town. State 22 ends at the CANADIAN LINE, 121.8 m., about two miles south of Paterson, British Columbia. Tour 6 (Cascade, B. C.)—Laurier—Colville—Spokane—Pasco, US 395. International Boundary to Pasco, 275.5 m. Great Northern R.R. parallels route between Laurier and Spokane; Northern Pacific between Spokane and Pasco. Route is used by the Spokane Auto Inter- urban Line. Highway paved or hard-surfaced entire route. Accommodations in larger towns; cabin-camps at intervals. This tour traverses a region of mountains, rolling prairies, and sage- brush wastes. From the Canadian Border to Deer Park, the highway curves through mountain-flanked highland valleys. South of Deer Park, it dips down to Spokane, crosses a palisaded metropolitan area, and winds southwesterly through a country of lakes, parks, escarpments and wooded hills, until it sweeps down into the "Big Bend" wheat- lands. Continuing southwesterly, US 395 descends through a succes- sion of lava-walled coulees and breaks into an open, semidesert country, where the Snake River joins the Columbia, southeast of Pasco.
A part of the area traversed by this route, adjacent to the Columbia River, on either side of Kettle Falls, will be drastically affected by the backwater from Coulee Dam (see Tour 1B). This dam across the Columbia River will, when completed, create a vast artificial lake. The depth of this lake, directly behind the dam, will be 377 feet, lessening gradually up the river as the ground rises. The flooding waters will creep up not only the Columbia itself but also tributary streams such as the Kettle, San Poil, and Spokane rivers; forming a shore line estimated at 5,000 miles, extending irregularly far up many valleys, canyons, and gullies. Section a. LAURIER to SPOKANE, 121.4. m. US 395 South of the Canadian Line is LAURIER, 0 m. (1,644 alt-. 35 pop.), a group of white-painted houses, dominated by the customhouse, a large structure in Colonial style. Here are the personnel of the United States Customs and Immigration Service, a port of entry to the United States. A stopping point for wagon and pack trains in early days of mining excitement, Laurier, it is said, had at that time a population of 2,000. The surrounding region is mountainous and forested, with some tamarack and other timber. Over ORIENT, 10.4 m. (1,441 alt., 175 pop.), looms (L) First Thought Mountain. The town originated as a mining camp in 1902 and was at first called "Morgan," but was renamed for a near-by mine. The rise in the price of gold in 1935 brought about renewed activities in mines near Orient. 1. Right from Orient a forest road winds over the Kettle River Range through the Colville Indian Reservation. 2. Left from Orient along a forest road that ascends the south slope of First Thought Mountain to F1rst Thought Lookout Stat1on, 2 m. Here, from a high tower, are seen lakes and mountain peaks, some of which are far beyond the Canadian border. South of Orient US 395 borders the Kettle River, flowing swiftly between rocky banks. At 22.5 m. is BOYDS, a small village. When the waters of the man-made lake created by Coulee Dam rise to this point the community will have moved to a higher ridge, together with the highway and railroad. The highway winds uphill; cliffs tower on the right and Kettle River flows swiftly (L) toward the falls below. At 30 m. is KETTLE FALLS (see Tour 5) and the Kettle Falls Bridge. Here is the confluence of the Kettle River and the Columbia River, US 395 crosses a half-mile-long steel and concrete bridge over the Columbia. From the bridge (L) are visible the boiling waters of the Columbia, forming the falls called Les Chaudieres, "The Kettles," by early-day French-Canadian trappers when they saw the water churn- ing in holes ground in solid rock by action of the plunging water at flood time. The holes are 15 to 20 feet deep and 8 to 10 feet in diameter. Above the main fall the Columbia, augmented by the Kettle River, widens to a steady stream of blue-white water which foams
and boils in a series of falls, surging furiously around rocky islands and half-submerged rocks. Some of these rocky islands immediately below the main falls are wholly or partly submerged in high water season but jut as high as 15 feet above water when spring floods have subsided. The pools and holes among the islands are at certain sea- sons rife with salmon, and are a favorite fishing place for Indian families who have fishing rights granted by the federal government. For many years the Indians of the vicinity were known as Les Chaudieres. Here, under treaty rights, they took their season's supply of fish during the various salmon runs. Kettle Falls will be entirely submerged by the rising backwater from Coulee Dam, and the water will even submerge the site of the present bridge. This will necessitate the tearing down of the bridge and its reconstruction at a point where the lake is narrow in order to connect with the re-aligned highway on both sides of the river, just above the "13x0" level, where the waterline of the lake will be. The depth of the lake at the falls will be 80 feet. Below the falls (R) are slanting slabs of rock where Indians once sharpened their spears and shaped their arrowheads. Long grooves may be seen in these rocks—marks made by generations of Indians whetting their spears there. Left from the east end of the bridge on a dirt sideroad to the ruins of the Old Jesu1t M1ss1on, 0.2 m., built by Father Anthony Ravalli, S.J., in 1846. Father Ravalli came to the Colville district in response to a request made by a chief of the Colville Indians, Martin Vlemuxsolix. Formerly known as St. Paul's Chapel, the weather-bleached, crumbling structure was rebuilt in 1858, and its original wooden pegs were replaced with iron nails. At 32.2 m. is a junction with State 22 (see Tour 5). East of the junction, US 395 bears away from the Columbia River. At 32.8 m. is a junction with another branch of State 22 (see Tour 5). Here the country is more open, with scattered growths of pine. MEYERS FALLS, 36.6 m. (1,631 alt., 200 pop.), is a pic- turesque town, with towering trees lining its main thoroughfare. The Hudson's Bay Company maintained gristmills in this neighborhood; in 1872 a mill was built by American interests. Meyers Falls will be above the Coulee Dam backwater. At 38.3 m. is the St. Regis Mission (R), a small settlement con- sisting of several large wooden buildings. The highway runs roughly parallel with the Colville River through rolling meadows. COLVILLE, 45.8 m. (1,512 alt., 2,408 pop.), the seat of Stevens County, is enclosed by peaks of the Okanogan Highlands and the Calispell Mountain Range on the northeast and south. On the west the city slopes down to the floor of the Colville Valley. The business center of tidy brick and stone buildings rises from a 60-foot plateau in the shadow of MOUNT COLVILLE (L). Towering grain elevators and church steeples give the city an aspect of compactness. In a fringe of hills at the base of Church Flat plateau are the clustered dwellings of the residential district. The main street is paved and 12 acres have been set aside for a public park. During the gold rush days, Colville saw much brawling and gun-
fighting. In 1861 soldiers from Fort Colville, an early military post, raided the town's laundry, ran off the Chinese proprietor, and took all the clothing. The next year a lieutenant killed a civilian in cold blood, but was acquitted because no one dared to testify against him. To check pilfering and murder, Major Curtis, commanding officer of the post, dismantled the town's distillery, confiscating all of the whisky. To the depredations of the soldiers were added those of roving desperadoes who occasionally visited the town. Left from Colville about 3 m. on an improved road to (L) the S1te of "Amer1can" Fort Colv1lle. First known as Harney's Depot, in honor of General Henry S. Harney, who in 1858 opened the district north of the Snake River to white settlers, the fort was built in 1859 on a flat skirted by Mill Creek. Adjacent to the fort was Pinkney City, the first seat of Stevens County, named after Major Pinkney Louganbeel, commander of a battalion of the Ninth In- fantry, which first occupied the fort. South of Colville, the highway follows the Colville River upstream. The low range of the Huckleberry Mountains, on the right, and the Pend Oreille Range, on the left, enclose the valley. Some geologists believe that the Columbia River once flowed southward along this channel in a direction opposite that of the present Colville River. A few villages are passed, including ADDY, 53.8 m. (1,633 alt., 150 pop.), a scattered hamlet supported by trade with Swiss dairy farmers in the vicinity. At 56.7 m. is a junction with an improved road: Right here 0.2 m. to BLUECREEK (1,637 alt., 76 pop.), once a logging and mining center, and still a shipping point for farm products and some copper and dolomite from neighboring mines. At 57.6 m., just off the highway (L), is the Regenery Cab1n, built by Charles Regenery, one of the first settlers of the region. Today part of a farm dwelling, the original structure was made of squared tamarack logs, ten high, chinked with white plaster. The Trad1ng Post and Stagecoach House, 59 m. (L), is now used as a barn. Originally twelve logs high, it was of peg-and-mortise- joint construction, and so solidly put together that c1owbars and dynamite had to be used to break the joints when it was moved to its present site a few years ago. As the owner of the farm on which it stands commented: "Those joints were made by a man who didn't count the cost of his time." CHEWELAH (Ind. garter snake), 63.1 m. (1,669 alt, 1,565 pop.), was a military post in the sixties. Today, it is the largest indus- trial town in the region, and home of the Northwest Magnesite Com- pany, which manufactures Thermax board, a mineral composition material used in building. The first newspaper in Stevens County, the Stevens County Sun, was published here. The town now main- tains The Chewelah Independent, and has six churches, two banks, and a library. The McPherson Cab1n, two and a half blocks east of the city hall, was built in 1860. It is a one-story log cabin, T-shaped, with
three rooms and a peaked roof. It once served as an Indian agency; papers stored in the attic were recently removed to the Historical Museum at Washington State College, Pullman (see Tour 4b). In front of the Congregational Church in Chewalah is a plaque, dedicated in 1938, commemorating the first Protestant religious service held in the Colville Valley, September 8, 1838, by the Reverends Cushing Eells and Elkanah Walker. Left from Chewelah to the Quarr1es of the Quartz1te Mounta1n, 1 m., rising 1,500 feet above the town. Rocks suitable for terrazzo, cement, stone, and stucco building materials are quarried here. The road descends due south from Chewelah along the floor of the river valley enclosed by hills. VALLEY, 71 m., is important as a recreational center. Right from Valley on a graveled road, 3.2 m., is WAITS LAKE (cabin accommodations; supplies), popular fishing and hunting area. SPRINGDALE, 81.3 m. (2,087 alt., 227 pop.), has never fully recovered from the devastating effects of a fire in 1908 which prac- tically destroyed the town. The graveled main street stretches up a steep grade; the brick and frame buildings stand flush with the side- walks. The Farmers and Merchants Bank, a white, square, brick structure adjoining the post office and the Camas Valley Grange Hall, on the same street, are the most prominent buildings in the town. On the hill (L) are 20 or more residences, shaded by pines. At Springdale is a junction with Tshimakain Mission Road. Right from the junction on an improved road, 11.5 m., to S1te of Tsh1maka1n M1ssion (pronounced Shim-ik-in), marked by a monument to the missionaries, Cushing Eells and Elkanah Walker, who came to Tshimakain, now Walker's Prairie, in 1838 upon the advice of Archibald McDonald, in charge of the Hudson's Bay Post at Fort Colvile. The mission was situated on Chamokane Creek. ("Chamokane" is another form of the Indian word meaning "plain of springs"), applied to this terrain because of the large number of subterranean streams. The mission was not a success. The Indians would not abandon dancing and gambling. One Indian confessed to Walker that he and his fellow tribes- men were not the least concerned about their souls—suggesting the missionaries would attract more recruits by keeping a good supply of tobacco on hand. Mr. Eells complained in a letter to a friend: "We have been here almost nine years and have not yet been permitted to hear the cry of one penitent, or the song of one redeemed soul." LOON LAKE, 87.5 m. is a roadside village. For about two miles, the highway skirts Loon Lake (R), warm and clear and shallow along its sandy shores; it is about a mile long and one-half mile wide, with wooded hills on the west down to the water's edge. At 90.2 m. is a junction with a dirt road: Right 2 m. on the west bank of Loon Lake is a Log Hut; it was once occu- pied by Harry Tracy, better known as "Tracy, the Bandit," probably the most notorious outlaw of the State since the turn of the century (see Tour 1n). At 93.3 m. is a junction with a dirt road: Left here to DEER LAKE, 6 m., four miles long and one and one-half miles wide (boats and cabins for rent). The shores of the lake are a runway for the deer from Telescope and Jump-off Joe mountains to Deer Lake Mountain.
The name of CLAYTON, 93.5 m. (2,266 alt., 200 pop.), estab- lished in 1889, refers to the deposits of clay found near the village. The tall chimney and squat flues of the dry kilns rising at the left belong to the Wash1ngton Br1ck and L1me Company Plant, which manufactures ceramics, as well as brick, terra cotta, fire brick, and flower pots. DEER PARK, 98.8 m. (2,118 alt., 1,070 pop.), is divided by the highway which traverses its main street. It has a weekly newspaper called the Deer Park Union, a three-story high school building costing $45,000, six churches, and a ball park. A large sawmill (L) is the chief industrial plant. In the eighties, the broad valley surrounding Deer Park was a virgin forest of pine, fir, and tamarack. The construction of a Great Northern R.R. branch from Spokane to Deer Park in 1884 stimulated exploitation of the rich resources of the region. Since then, lumber companies and farmers have steadily cut the timber line back to the mountains. Large deposits of fire clay, kaolin, and mineral pigment are found within a short distance of the town. It is an important shipping point for lumber, grain, and fruit. Outstanding annual events are the 4-H Community Fair, held dur- ing the first part of September, and the Settlers' Picnic held on the third Thursday in June. DENISON, 102.2 m. (1,951 alt., 40 pop.), is a crossroads settle- ment that was first named Buckeye, after the Buckeye Lumber Com- pany, at Hawkspur downriver. South of Denison, US 395 winds through a series of rolling hills. Well-tilled farm lands, unfenced, extend to the rim of the highway, which is bordered occasionally by pine trees. At 111.8 m. the highway spans Little Spokane Creek and enters DARTFORD (1,840 alt., 27 pop.) ; here stands Dart's Mill, built in 1883, for which the hamlet was named. At 115.6 m., US 395 merges with US 195 (see Tour 4a). Along this northern entrance to Spokane (known as the North Division Highway) the "Lane of Remembrance," a series of trees planted on both sides of the highway, has been established by the Spokane Park- ways and Roadside Protective Association. When the trees reach maturity, the long lane will be one of the most beautiful boulevards in the State. South (straight ahead) on Division Street to Sprague Avenue, the junction with US 10 (see Tour la); R. on Sprague Avenue to Howard Street; R. on Howard to Riverside, the city center. SPOKANE, 121.4 m. (2,039 alt-, 122,001 pop.), (see Spokane). Section b. SPOKANE to PASCO, 154.1 m. US 395 West of SPOKANE CITY CENTER, 0 m., the route (US 395- US 10) reaches a junction with US 195 (see Tour 4b)\ R. on Sunset Blvd. across Latah Creek Bridge.
At TWO-WAY JUNCTION, 7.2 m., US 395 turns L. from US 10 (see Tour la), cutting through wheatfields to enter a wooded area where dark green pines spring from rocky crevices. Small thickets of aspen, willow, and cottonwood denote underlying water; cattails dip into inky ponds by the roadside. FOUR LAKES, 13.4 m. (2,340 alt., 125 pop.), a hamlet strung along the highway, contains a grange hall, post office, and service station. Here, an arrow-shaped, stone pyramid marks the S1tb of the Battle of Four Lakes. On August 7, 1858, Colonel George Wright of the United States Army led a force of 700 soldiers against 5,000 allied Indians, following the defeat of Colonel Steptoe at Rosalia (see Tour 4b). The battle was fought on the morning of September 1, 1858. The Indians employed their customary tactics, charging up, firing, and riding quickly away; but on this occasion they were met by a hail of shot before they could complete the maneuver. To their surprise, the troops kept advancing, as if on parade. Observing that the foe was becoming panic-stricken, mounted dragoons went forward through platoons of infantry at a gallop, cutting down the Indians with their sabres to clear the plain. At Four Lakes is a junction with a paved road: Right from the junction the road zigzags through a bunch-grass and farming area, occasionally spotted with clumps of bull pine. Orchards here, once fairly productive, are now far from prosperous-looking. Slightly to the left of the road is SILVER LAKE BUTTE, partly wooded at its base, nearly bald at the summit. SILVER LAKE, 3.4 m., once offered excellent bass, perch, and crappie fishing. A scheme to use the water for irrigation, promoted by former Governor M. E. Hay and others, resulted in the draining away of half the lake, until the granite rocks that lined the bottom were left high and dry and the cattails and tules at the north end of the lake had marched forward half a mile. Today, the level of the water is slowly rising. At 3.5 m. is a Gran1te Quarry, operated by the Washington Monumental Stone Company's plant, which yields good quality gray granite. The road ascends a slight grade between scattered pine trees to a junction with an improved road. Here (R) is an ornate, three-story, red-brick house, built by Stanley Hallett, who served as a State senator. The senator built his house in what be considered to be the style of an English manor. Right from the junction to US 10 and Spokane. MEDICAL LAKE,4.9 m. (2,114 pop.),sprawls north and south along the shore of a mile-long lake bearing the same name. Scattered along the main street are a few stores, garages, a post office, beer parlors, and an undertaking establish- ment. Once the town was a lively trading and summer resort center. Interurban electric trains carried crowds of people from Spokane to the two dance halls, the salt waters of the lake, and the camps along its shores. On the Fourth of July, thousands flocked to the town, the trains running on 15-minute schedules. With the coming of the automobile, however, and the opening of other recrea- tional centers, the crowds began to dwindle. One dance hall burned to the water's edge; the other closed up; the camp grounds were sold to the State Hospital for the Insane; shoppers began to buy in Spokane. Andrew LefeVre, gold prospector, named the town and lake in 1859. The waters of the lake, extremely salty, were once thought to possess medicinal properties. Only a few kinds of marine life can survive in it: there are mud turtles and frogs and a species of salamander called axolotye. Right from Medical Lake city center, the road runs along the northwest shore, men climbs a pine-covered hill overlooking the lake to the entrance of
the Eastern Wash1ngton State Hosp1tal for the Insane. A small white guard bouse (R) is at the entrance. The road winds past a large greenhouse (L) to the top of the hill, where the main buildings are located. There are gardens, lawns, a baseball diamond, and aviaries. The first building of the hospital was started in 1889; the institution now has approximately 1,800 patients. In the town of Medical Lake is a junction with an improved road; L. here 2.1 m., to the State Custod1al School for the feeble-minded, established in 1907, which comprises several large brick structures centered around the administration building. The grounds are pleasingly landscaped, with gardens in the rear. South of Four Lakes, paralleling the main line of the Northern Pacific Railway, US 395 crosses a rock-strewn plain, dotted with pine trees. CHENEY, 19.1 m. (2,336 alt., 1,551 pop.), is platted in a triangle, with its base on the Northern Pacific Railway. It is a pleasant busy town. Several railroad lines run through it, and it is the home of the Eastern Washington College of Education, one of three such schools in the State. At one time Cheney was connected with Spokane by an electric interurban line, and for a decade or so, until the automobile cut into its traffic, the line and the town prospered. For a few years Cheney was the county seat, only to lose out in a bitter fight with Spokane Falls. Today, Cheney is a servicing and distribution center. Slightly north of the railway station (R) is the F. M. Mart1n M1ll, a large flour mill owned by ex-Governor Clarence Martin. Another important factory in the town is the Cheney Weeder Com- pany's Plant, which manufacturers farm implements. Cheney has a weekly newspaper, the Cheney Free Press, now in its forty-second year, a bank, several churches, stores, a hotel, and a theater. Its chief annual event is the Four-H Community Fair, usually held late in September or early in October. There is a city park, located between Fourth and Fifth and D and E Streets. South of Cheney, the highway descends imperceptibly in broad, sweeping curves through an uneven grazing region. Scab and lava rock ledges, brownish-black in color and very jagged, are frequently seen near clumps of bull pine. Gradually, the terrain alters; ever- greens become scarcer; suddenly, at 38.7 m., the timber line ends, and soon the rolling hills are gray with sagebrush. Herds of beef cattle graze on both sides of the road. During the spring months the land- scape is gayly colorful with sunflowers and lupine. SPRAGUE, 44.9 m. (1,889 alt., 641 pop.), was named for General John W. Sprague, director of the Northern Pacific Railway. The town is laid out at a 45-degree angle to the highway, as are most of the towns on this route, with the business section comprising a few blocks along First Street. On a gentle slope (L) are a residence dis- trict, the high school, and grade school. In and around Sprague is a considerable settlement of Irish Catholics, as indicated by names like Brislawn, Balfe, Gaffney, and Moylan. Dominating the town from the top of the hill (R) are the Roman Catholic Church and St.
Joseph's Academy, a parochial school. The building of the academy, erected in 1886, was formerly used as a county courthouse, the first in the county, when Sprague was the county seat. Stage routes once ran from Sprague to the north and west. Later, it became the shop headquarters of the Northern Pacific, rivaling Cheney and surpassing Spokane. The coming of good roads and fast cars diverted trade away from the town, and this, together with hard times for farmers and stock men, has contributed to its slow decline. At 45.9 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right from the junction, 1 m., to the Hercules Ranch, a 54,000-acre stock ranch. Modern in equipment and one of the largest ranches of its kind in the State, it has long been a show place and point of interest. SPRAGUE LAKE, also called Colville Lake (R), is a favorite recreation spot for the residents of Sprague and Ritzville. About six miles in length, partially obscured by growths of willow and cotton- wood, it offers good fishing for bass, perch, and crappie and, when winters are sufficiently cold, provides excellent skating. Southward, the highway runs through level land where well-tilled grain fields stretch for miles. There are few signs of wild life: occas- ionally a hawk soars overhead, or an owl stares, silently motionless, from the top of a fence post, or a covey of Hungarian partridge whirs swiftly to safety. RITZVILLE, 69.5 m. (1,814 alt., 1,748 pop.), seat of Adams County, is an important milling and shipping center of the dry and dusty wheat country. The R1tzv1lle Flour M1lls and a farmer- operated, wheat-shipping warehouse contribute to the city's income. The town has modern hotel accommodations, a Carnegie library, a weekly newspaper, eight churches (two of them German-speaking), and a school system serving an area of 250 square miles through a fleet of busses. A city park on an eminence in the eastern part of town has a large swimming pool. Philip Ritz located a homestead here in 1878 and gave his name to the site. Between 1891-1900, a large group of German-Russians set- tled in Ritzville, and many of their old-country customs still survive. With the arrival of the Northern Pacific Railway, the town grew from a drab village into the busy community it is today. South of Ritzville US 395 runs through high plateau lands, where arable soil has been planted to wheat. The rougher areas of scabrock and sagebrush are used for grazing. Occasionally, a waterhole or slough is bordered by willows and aspen; serviceberry bushes, for a brief time in spring, form swaying towers of white, and sunflowers and lupines brighten the dun-colored sagelands. In the fall, blackbirds chatter in the yellow stubble fields, and swallows gather on the tele- graph wires, or a flying wedge of geese, lined against the saffron evening sky, honk their way south above the quiet land. LIND, 86.8 m. (1,365 alt., 679 pop.), is spread out in a hollow on both sides of Nielsen Coulee, which protects it slightly from the winds which blow steadily from the west. The town is an important
shipping point, and will be the southeast gateway to the Grand Coulee irrigation districts. It has seven churches. Two Nielsen brothers settled here in 1888 and platted the town in such a manner that the initial letters of its street-names spell out their surname. The Lind Leader claims to be the oldest paper in the county; in 1935-6 it was given the award of excellence in its class by the Washington Press Association. At the corner of 1st and 2nd streets in Lind is a junction with the Cunningham-Othello Road, an improved road. Right from the junction, 8 m., to the Ph1ll1ps Farm, the largest wheat farm in the State, containing 22,000 acres. Here, scientific dry farming and machine agriculture have been highly developed. The farm is planted on a fifty-fifty basis: each year 11,000 acres are sown, the remaining acreage lying fallow. In the harvest season five outfits work day and night shifts, with crews consisting of four men—a cat skinner (caterpillar tractor driver), a separator tender, a jigger, and a sack sewer. The tractor-drawn combine reaps, threshes, and sacks the grain and spreads the straw as it moves through the field. In this manner, the entire crop is harvested in less than two weeks. South of Lind the highway traverses a succession of parched slopes and sterile hillsides studded with igneous rocks. CONNELL, 116 m. (838 alt., 365 pop.), has three blocks of main street starting at the railroad tracks in the bottom of a coulee and ending (L) on a small knoll. Vacant lots overgrown with weeds lie between the buildings. Connell is a farm community, its trade de- pending on the farmers in the vicinity. South of Connell, US 395 descends through a desolate region of gray sand, gray-green sagebrush, dried water courses, slabs of rock jutting from old fissures, and sandy mounds which seem to have been piled by a steam shovel. Cuts on the road reveal the columnar struc- ture of the igneous rock underlying the region. Tumbleweeds drift and roll across the harrowed earth. Isolated houses and withered farms, now deserted, give evidence of the hopeless struggle waged here in years past by drought victims. Water supplied from the Grand Coulee reclamation project (see Tour 1B) will soon give new life to this area. At 123.5 m. is a junction with State 11-B, a graveled road. Left from the junction to KAHLOTUS (Ind. hole-in-the-ground), 18 m. (612 alt., 163 pop.), a sleepy village on the west shore of Washtucna Lake that vies with Connell for the farm trade. The town was at first called Harders- burg but the post office department objected to the length of the name and the Indian one was chosen. Near Kahlotus is the Dev1l's Monument, an immense dome of lava in Devil's Canyon, a branch of the coulee. The road parallels WASHTUCNA LAKE, two miles long and one-half mile wide, which is fed by several large springs in the near-by hills. The lake is motionless and white, like molten silver. At 29 m. is WASHTUCNA, (995 alt., 261 pop.), a scattered, two-street village squeezed into a bend of the coulee. A rodeo, held here annually each fall, is attended by farmers from as far away as the Yakima Valley. WASHTUCNA VALLEY cuts across the southeastern corner of Adams County. ELTOPIA, 134.9 m. (591 alt., 85 pop.), is a drab, forlorn settle- ment hugging the railroad tracks. The following story is told in con-
nection with the town's name: during grading of the Northern Pacific line in 1889, a freshet resulting from heavy rains washed out the grade, undoing weeks of labor. A disgusted Cockney worker commented that there would be "'el to pay!" The construction crew nicknamed the camp "Hell to Pay." Railroad headquarters accepted the name, but when the finished map of the surveyed district was returned, the "H" had been dropped and the word written "Eltopay." Later, the name was converted into the more soothing Eltopia. Dust storms here are frequent and severe. A dark, wall-like cloud appears on the horizon and moves leisurely nearer until its gritty sub- stance can be clearly detected, rolling inward and down; then suddenly everything is enveloped in a black suffocating blizzard of dust that filters through the most cautiously tightened window-frame. At 149.8 m. is the Pasco-Frankl1n County A1rport, a 66-acre field with two runways and a modern four-plane hangar. PASCO, 154.1 m. (381 alt., 3,913 pop.), the seat of Franklin County, spreads its attractive public buildings, landscaped grounds, and business blocks over a level desert plain. The city is an important division point on the Northern Pacific Railway, and the majority of its skilled workers are employed in the roundhouse and machine shops. Pasco also is the hub of the social, political, and commercial activity of the large farming population in the vicinity. Although the Pasco district was traversed by early explorers, ad- venturers, and fur traders following the near-by Snake and Columbia Rivers, the history of the present city dates from 1880, when the rails of the Northern Pacific reached the site. The name Pasco is said to have been bestowed by Virgil Bogue, a railroad surveyor, when extreme heat, rust, and sand storms reminded him of the disagreeable conditions in the Peruvian mining city, Cerro de Pasco. Prior to the development of Pasco, the county seat was at Ainsworth, a lusty rail- road center a few miles away, with a population of 5,000; Ainsworth deteriorated as Pasco flourished, until not a stick now remains of it. Incorporated in 1891, Pasco has grown steadily. Most of the city's industrial activity is centered in plants which border the railroad tracks in the eastern part of the town. These include the Pasco Union stockyards, the Miller Addison Icing Plant, and freight terminals, grain elevators, and sheds. The city is served by the Washington Motor Coach and Union Pacific stages, and sev- eral good hotels and restaurants cater to visitors. On 4th Street (R), set in a neatly landscaped plot, is the Frankl1n County Courthouse, a structure of buff brick and limestone with Corinthian columns and a gilded metal dome visible for miles. Near the courthouse is Our Lady of Lourdes Hosp1tal (R), conducted by a Roman Catholic sisterhood, which is housed in a five-story brick building. The C1ty Park (L) has been artistically landscaped. At the edge of the business district is the mission-style Carneg1e L1brary (L), with a collection of 6,000 volumes. The Pasco Herald, a weekly
newspaper, was voted the second best weekly in the State a few years ago. An unusual nine-hole golf course is about two miles southeast of the city on US 410; the fairways are rough and sand greens are utilized. The land was donated by the city and the course is maintained through assessments. The links are free to the public. At Lewis and 4th Streets, US 395 forms a junction with US 410 (see Tour 2a). iniiiuiii! Tour 7 (Osoyoos, B. C.)—Oroville—Teanaway—Maryhill. US 97. Canadian Boundary to Oregon Boundary, 333 m. Route paralleled by Great Northern Ry. between Oroville and Dryden, and by Northern Pacific between Teanaway and Toppenish; Washington Motor Coach stages entire route. Canadian Boundary—Wenatchee River, bituminous- surfaced road; Wenatchee River-Dryden, concrete-paved; Blewett Pass, subject to closing by winter snows; Dryden-Thorp, bituminous surfaced; Thorp-Top- penish, concrete-paved; Toppenish-Maryhill, bituminous-surfaced. Hotels and cabin camps at convenient intervals. US 97, also known as the Cascade International highway, and sometimes referred to as the Okanogan-Cariboo Trail, follows the route over which, before 1847, the fur brigades of the Hudson's Bay Company carried pelts from Canada to Fort Vancouver on the Co- lumbia River. The year 1858 brought the first of a long series of stampedes by gold-seekers over the Cariboo Trail to rich diggings along the Fraser River and in the Similkameen district. Since then, the trail has borne much traffic, and the proposed highway to Alaska destines it to bear more. The days of the fur brigades and the gold rushes are now at an end, and the country has settled down to the long task of developing the resources ignored by the early trappers and miners. The region is an extremely varied one: rugged badlands are set beside level plains, sawtoothed ridges rear above gently rolling foot-hills, riotous mountain streams tumble into smooth lakes, rivers cut their way across drab deserts; mantles of timber spread over many hills, while others are bare and rocky. As for the settlers who peopled this region, they represent today both the old and the new West. Pioneer living and modern enterprise may often be found side by side, taking each other's measure.
Section a. CANADIAN BOUNDARY to TEANAWAY, 193.9 m. US 97 The CUSTOMHOUSE (R), 0 m., at the International Line, is the central building of an attractive group surrounded by artfully landscaped grounds. The contrast between the green lawns and shrub- bery and the barren, lifeless aspect of the surrounding hills is sharp and impressive. South of the Customhouse the highway follows the flat, sandy shore- line, bare of habitation, of long, narrow OSOYOOS LAKE. The Kalispel Indian word for "narrow" is soyoos, and it was by that word that this lake was originally designated; among the region's early settlers, however, was an Irishman who insisted that the word be civilized by the addition of the Irish "O". OROVILLE, 4.5 m. (921 alt., 1,206 pop.), port of entry and customs and immigration station, north of the confluence of the Sim- ilkameen and Okanogan Rivers, is noted for mining, lumbering, and fruit canning. The development that came with the railroad is visible in the substantial modern structures of the compact little business section beyond the depot. Originally named Oro (Sp. gold), the "ville" was added by the Post Office Department to avoid confusion with Oso, another town in the State. A rush of placer miners into the district began just prior to the Civil War. Although Oroville's site was included in land claimed by Chief Moses in 1873, Alexander McCauley, an early set- tler and friend of the chief, was allowed to hold a tract adjacent to the present town. When Chief Moses' district was thrown open to settlement in 1886, development of the near-by mineral resources assured the town's future. Oroville's first store, established in 1891, was soon followed by other enterprises, including more than 20 saloons. Wheat is now being re- introduced after a decline caused by several years of drought. Today, fruits and vegetables raised on irrigated land are processed and pre- pared for shipment in the town's half-dozen canneries and dehydrating plants. Sheep and other livestock grazing, under the supervision of the Department of Agriculture, are assuming greater proportions in the surrounding hills. Pure epsom salts (magnesium sulphate), as well as a lower grade, are mined near Oroville from two deposits. Ore de- posits with fair yields of gold, silver, lead, and arsenic are mined. Limestone and terra-cotta clay are found in commercial quantities. During the first two days of September each year, the Oroville Fair entertains visitors from neighboring towns and counties with horse-racing, ball games, dancing, and carnival features. From Oroville a number of roads lead to lakes, mountain gorges, ghost towns, and busy hamlets. The roads branching off the main high- way are of earth and gravel, and, although open to travel most of the year, are often damaged by heavy rains. Cautious travelers carry chains, shovel, and axe. Two mountain roads leave Oroville:
1. Left from Oroville on an improved road is a junction with a dirt road: L. here 2 m. to Okanogan Sm1th's Orchard and Home, on the eastern shore of Osoyoos Lake. The ancient and dilapidated log cabin encircled by trees, was erectedby Hiram F. (Okanogan) Smith in 1860. The nickname was bestowed on Smith by the Indians because his place was a rendezvous for the early inhabitants of the region. A colorful character, he played an important part in the Okanogan country's history. Elected to the legislature in 1865, he had to trek north through British Columbia and proceed by steamer down the Fraser River and across Puget Sound in order to reach the Territorial capital. Re- turning, he brought with him a number of small apple trees and peach seeds, which he planted on his claim. Today, some of the apple trees are 40 feet high, have a spread of 50 feet, and measure 3 feet or more in diameter. At 3 m. the main side road crosses Tonasket Creek, a mountain stream fol- lowing a rocky canyon. At 11.4 m. on the main side road is a junction with a dirt road: R. here through Eden Valley to HAVILLAH, 6 m. (16 pop.). Here are a number of German families of the Lutheran faith, most of whom arrived in 1910. The main side road continues up Tonasket Creek Canyon and crosses MUD LAKE VALLEY. CHESAW, 21.5 m. (2,910 alt., 202 pop.), a small mining settlement, was named in honor of a Chinese who, with his Indian wife, lived here in the early days. Their hospitable "bungaloo" housed the few white and Indian travelers on trips through the north country. Five miles north of Chesaw is the Custom- house. Agriculture supports the scattered population. 2. Right from Oroville on a graveled road along the Similkameen River through beautiful SIMILKAMEEN GORGE. NIGHTHAWK, 14 m. (50 pop.), on the Similkameen River just south of the Canadian boundary, once a boom town, has maintained a semblance of life throughout lean years. MOUNT ELLEMEHAM (4,770 alt.) looms austerely to the east; PALMER MOUNTAIN and PALMER LAKE, 17 m., were once the scene of great mining activity. "Similkameen," a name of vague meaning and origin—old timers say it is Indian for "treacherous waters"—appeared in the reports of the Wilkes Expedition of 1841 as "Similameigh." LOOMIS, 24 m. (1,306 alt., 180 pop.), named after the first merchant in the locality, is the site of the late Guy Waring's ranch. In his book My Pioneer Past, Waring gives a vivid picture of Oroville and Loomis. A friend of Theo- dore Roosevelt and Owen Wister at Harvard, Waring, after an unsatisfactory trial as an architect in his father's office at Newport, Rhode Island, looked for new horizons. With his wife and three children, he reached Portland in 1885, worked there for a short while on a railroad, then set out for the Okanogan country. Here he became a cowman, storekeeper, barber, cook, farmer, shoe- maker, "washwoman," fur trader, carpenter, and justice of the peace. Waring was a confidant of "Okanogan" Smith, staunch and saintly little Father de Rouge, and other characters of the border country. He died in Milton, Massa- chusetts, in 1936. In the "old town," the southern edge of Oroville, US 97 crosses a bridge spanning the Similkameen River and turns southward along the curve of the stream. The Okanogan Valley, which the highway follows for 75 miles, once contained what is known as the Okanogan Lobe of the Cordilleran Ice Sheet. Rocks, sandy patches, and gravelly areas indicate thousands of years of glacial action. Broad-leafed cottonwood, thicketed birches, willows, alders, and aspen (quaking asp), with their smooth, greenish-white bark and easily agitated leaves, line the river banks. Many of these are of commercial value. The willow, flexible and easily cut, is used by Indians in weaving baskets; cottonwood, a soft wood, is especially
suitable for paper pulp; aspen wood, because it is odorless, is much used for cheese boxes and butter boxes. One of Frederic Remington's paintings of a generation ago pictured a group of Indians, sitting languidly astride "cayuses" that were drink- ing at the willowed riverside of the Okanogan. Other natives appear in the background on the bench above the river, stolidly facing the noonday sun and gazing at the fences of the white settlers, the desolate range, the silent mountains and desert. Owen Wister immortalized these men of the Okanogan in a description beneath Remington's picture. Of old, when Okanogan ran Good medicine for horse and man, The winged shaft was wont to fly In peace or war, beneath the sky. Gone is the arrow, and instead The message of the white man's lead. The poison of the white man's drink— These lessons by the river-brink Are learned, where Okanogan ran Good medicine for horse and man. At 9.2 m. is the junction with a graveled road. Right on this road to a junction at 0.5 m. with another graveled road: L. here to WANNACUT LAKE, 3.5 m. At the south end of the lake is an un- developed State park; no recreational or camping facilities are available. Scat- tered along a low ridge (R) are buildings belonging to the American Rand Mining Company, which operates in this district. In this vicinity the town of GOLDEN, 4.5 m., once existed, with a reputed population of 500. Today not a trace of it remains. South of the junction US 97 skirts the low hills of WHISKEY RANGE (R). Flumes clinging to the hillside high above the river are the arteries of the Oroville-Tonasket Federal Irrigation Project, which furnishes water for 12,000 acres extending from the Canadian Boundary to five miles south of Tonasket. About one-third of the area is in orchards. About 30 families of Dunkards, who came during the World War, live on their small orchard farms in the immediate vicinity of ELLIS- FORD, across the river, 16.9 m. The brethren allow their beards to grow, but not mustaches. At 23.4 m. is the junction with State 4, a graveled road. Left on State 4 across a span over the Okanogan River to TONASKET, 0.4 m. (900 alt., 643 pop.), sprawled along the east bank of the Okanogan River on a narrow flat beneath rising hills. It was named for an Okanogan chief and the site was an Indian camping ground. The United States Forest Service maintains a ranger station here. Many sheep graze on the surrounding hills; fields of alfalfa scent the air; apple orchards cover the flats above the town. Some gold, silver, and lead ores are taken from near-by mines. East of Tonasket on State 4 are vistas of the Okanogan Valley. The road follows the path of Bonaparte Creek and traverses the Colville National Forest. At 12.9 m. is a junction with a side road: R. here into AENEAS VALLEY, named after Chief Aeneas (Indian pronunciation of the French word Ignace), onetime Government guide, who, it is said, lived to be more than 100 years old. His land allotment is now the home of one of his heirs, Joe Aeneas. On a
hill within its limits is an old Indian cemetery. In Aeneas Valley are many persons of Austrian descent. On a rock ledge adjacent to the Joe H1ll Ranch, 13.3 m., are ancient Ind1an Carv1ngs, which have withstood the weathering of centuries. Occasional dairy ranches and alfalfa fields break the timbered wilderness. Slender-trunked lodge- pole pines stand close together, merging their dark-green upper branches. The lodgepole pine was so named because it was commonly used by the Indians in building their lodge and tepee frames. The small trees form dense thickets on burned-over areas. The phenomenal re-seeding power of this tree in the wake of forest fires is due to the fact that the closed cones can endure extreme heat, which would kill the tree itself. The uniform size of the lodgepole pine has made it especially adaptable for use as telegraph poles, railroad ties, and mine timbers. The road follows the west fork of the Sanpoil River downstream. Along its banks are many camping and fishing spots. Campfires may be built only in the designated camping spots, unless a permit is obtained from a forest ranger. The unimproved road reaches another junction with State 4 at West Fork. The main side road continues northwest along Bonaparte Creek. At 20.6 m. is a junction with a dirt road: L. here 5 m. to BONAPARTE LAKE (trout fishing). State 4 leaves Bonaparte Creek to enter OLD WAUCONDA, 24 m. (4,170 alt., 15 pop.), hidden in the center of an extensive mining and diversified farm- ing district. At 40.8 m. is REPUBLIC (2,503 alt., 710 pop.), seat of Ferry County, hidden in the folds of the Okanogan Highlands and the Kettle River Range. Despite a few modern structures, the town retains a flavor of the Old West along its main street, with an ancient "opry house," now a motion picture theater, balconied and false-fronted buildings, and old-time bars untouched by the fire of 1938, which razed a section of the street. Discovery of gold on Granite Creek by John Welty on February 20, 1896, opened the northern section of the Colville Indian Reservation and brought an influx of prospectors. In its issue of May 14, 1896, the Republic Pioneer pro- claimed that here was a little city that was moving right along. "Large quanti- ties of whiskey, flour, and other necessities arrived during the week." Gold seekers continued to flock to the frontier town throughout the summer of 1898. By 1900 Republic ranked sixth in population among eastern Washington cities. This was an exciting period of its life, when 28 saloons and two dance halls assisted miners, prospectors, and miscellaneous fortune hunters to while away their evenings. The "Hot Air Line," so called because its completion was deemed improbable, was finished between Republic and Grand Forks, B. C, in April, 1902, but proved unprofitable and was replaced by the Great Northern the same year. Several gold mines operate more or less sporadically along a mile and a half of gulch leading northward from the end of the main street. Visitors are admitted at the discretion of the foreman in charge but must sign a liability waiver. A recent addition to Republic's industries is a lime kiln four miles west of town. Left from Republic on State 4-A, a graveled side road: LAKE CURLEW (Ind. karanips, for the snipe-like bird once prevalent in the locality), 6.0 m., five miles long and about half a mile wide, lies among sparsely timbered hills. North of MALO, 16.2 m. (2,120 alt., 90 pop.), and CURLEW, 22.4 m. (1,791 alt., 100 pop.), weathered villages among mountain peaks, the road passes through mining country along the Kettle River, which flows north into Canada. DANVILLE, 32.2 m. (1,739 alt-, 75 poP-), Port of entry from Canada, was named for a storekeeper who, it is related, built a store on the boundary line and evaded duties by taking Canadian goods in one door, shoving them across the floor, and selling them to customers at the south entrance. Custom officials compelled the removal of the store to a spot south of the line. At the Canadian Boundary, 32.7 m. is the Customhouse, two miles south of Grand Forks, B. C. Right from Republic on State 4, the main side road, which runs due south
along the Sanpoil River. At 47.7 m. is a junction with a forest road: R. here to SWAN LAKE, 8 m., (trout fishing, camping), where there is a Forest Service Guard Station. At SCATTER CREEK, 47.8 m., flocks of sheep graze on pasture land rented from the Forest Service. Ten M1le Creek Forest Service Camp, 50.1 m. (2,200 alt.), is at the confluence of the creek and the Sanpoil River. WEST FORK, 52.6 m., at the confluence of the West Fork of the Sanpoil and the main stream, is a camping ground and supply station. The road follows a valley, which narrows and becomes more rugged, and crosses a number of creeks, dry except in late spring and early summer, when they carry away the melting snows from the adjacent hills. When Republic was a booming mining center, these creeks were named ac- cording to their distance from the town—Nine Mile Creek, Thirteen Mile Creek, and so on—to facilitate the locating of mining claims along them. New names have been bestowed within the past few years. Countless piles of stone and rock recall the bold placer mining of older days; in some sections prospect holes honeycomb the hillsides. The somber hills extend into the Kettle River Range of the rolling Okanogan Highlands. KELLER, 88.6 m. (1,140 alt., 100 pop.), named for J. C. Keller, a store- keeper who began business here in a tent in 1898, retains its frontier aspect. Keller was founded in 1898, when the southern half of the Colville Indian Reservation was opened for mining. The present site of Keller will be under approximately 80 feet of water upon completion of Grand Coulee Dam. South of Keller, State 4 follows closely the east bank of the Sanpoil River. Approximately 80 miles long, the Sanpoil is not safely navigable by any type of boat. Good catches of trout are made here. Deer, rabbit, and Chinese pheasant and Hungarian partridge abound in the surrounding uplands. CLARK, 95.8 m. (1,027 alt-i 20 poP-)i is 3 ferry landing on the Columbia River, near its confluence with the Sanpoil. Here an open barge winds on a cable across the Columbia, transporting cars and passengers free. From the south bank of the Columbia, State 4 ascends to the Columbia Plateau in a dizzying series of sharp turns and switchbacks. At 106.0 m. is the junction with US 10 (see Tour 1a). South of the Tonasket junction, US 97 climbs along the slopes of the west bank of the Okanogan River. Along the river cottonwoods rustle in the wind and willow and aspen quiver in rhythm with the stream's current. Narrow side roads struggle through canyons to valleys supporting small farms, surrounded by split-rail fences, their houses mottled by the weather and warped from their cornerstones. The frontier spirit, quaint humor, and slow speech of the inhabitants of these interior settlements recall the mountain regions of the southern United States. At 40 m. the highway swings back to the river and the sleepy little village of RIVERSIDE (862 alt., 192 pop.). Confined to a hollow on the west bank of the lazy Okanogan River, it has an air of rustic serenity, emphasized by yellow roses and hollyhocks and vine-covered houses. Nevertheless, Riverside was once a bustling little metropolis and a point of great strategic value in the flow of Okanogan Valley commerce. A short distance north of town McLoughlin Rapids trans- form a section of the river into a roaring welter of white foam, which once marked the head of navigation on the Okanogan. Riverside was in its heyday in the period when steamboats carried the freight and a glamorous "steamboat-round-the-bend" spirit dominated the life of the town. Beginning with the opening of a general store near its present
site by F. J. ("Pard") Cummings in 1898, Riverside quickly became a supply point for the northern part of Okanogan County and the Colville Indian Reservation, the trading center of a region greater in area than some eastern States. To the west lay Conconully, the county seat, and the way to it led through Riverside, which profited accord- ingly. In 1915 the railroad came in and the steamboats vanished. Con- conully, missed by the railroad, collapsed, and the county seat was moved to Okanogan, below Riverside; while Riverside, chastened and subdued, found its present place in the scheme of things. The bulk of Riverside's inhabitants are sons and daughters of pioneers from the Cumberland region. As a rule they prefer the quiet life. There are long summer afternoons when the only movement in Riverside is the cloud of dust drifting above some cow nonchalantly marching down the main street. On week-ends, however, inhabitants of the outlying districts invade Riverside and pre-empt the floor of the town hall, where they stage night-long successions of square dances and modern steps to the strains of "good old mountain music." South of Riverside US 97 leaves the riverbanks and passes irrigated farms, green in spring and dry during the hot summer months, and the apple orchards of ROBINSON FLAT, 43.2 m. OMAK, 47.6 m. (858 alt., 2,547 pop.), cut by the curve of the Okanogan River, is the largest town in the north-central part of the State. The compact and solidly built business district fronts on the main highway. Across the river are warehouse-lined railroad tracks, old straggling streets, and the stacks of lumber and huge smokestack of the Biles-Coleman Lum- ber Company mill. Employing normally 500 persons, with the largest single pay roll in the county, the mill has been, during the past few years, the scene of bitter labor disputes. Although built for box man- ufacture, the mill also ships special interior trim and standard-dimen- sion lumber made from the yellow, beautifully grained ponderosa pine. The name "Omak" is derived from the Indian omache, meaning "good medicine." The Omak Stampede, a two-day festival and rodeo, is held in August. Left from Omak, a dirt road climbs a long grade. At 3 m. on the main side road is a junction with a dirt road: L. here 2 m. to St. Mary's M1ssion, a group of buildings including a white-painted Roman Catholic Church, a convent, a boys' school, and a hospital. The original mission building was destroyed by fire on September 30, 1938, and is being replaced by a modern structure. The mission was founded in 1889 by Father Etienne de Rouge, who devoted his personal fortune, and what he was able to solicit from contributors throughout the world, to these sons and daughters of the wilderness. The kindly old French Jesuit held tremendous sway over the tribesmen and Christians of the vicinity. Rebellious Chief Joseph and Chief Moses attended his services, though they seemed to doubt their fitness for the heavenly destiny painted by the priest. Many deeds of violence were prevented by Father de Rouge's intervention. In cele- brating the Mass he is said to have mixed Chinook jargon with the traditional Latin. He insisted that the Indians wear hats; and with flapping headgear askew on their braided heads, they sat and listened to him. Near the mission ground is Wayfarer's Cab1n, made of hewed and dovetailed logs with a sod roof; it once served as a shelter for travelers.
South of Omak US 97 heads through a wide level area along the river. At 49.3 m. is SHELLROCK POINT (L), a huge grayish-white rock, with towering granite intrusions from the period when the Okanogan Highlands rose from the ocean bed. OKANOGAN, 51.8 m. (829 alt., 1,735 pop.), the center of gov- ernment in Okanogan County since 1915, is also headquarters for the Chelan National Forest. Though less populous than Omak, it has a larger and more impressive business district. The six blocks of brick and frame buildings occupy a narrow valley on a delta bar, at the mouth of Salmon Creek. The Okanogan River winds slowly and quietly a few hundred feet left of Second Avenue, the main thorough- fare. Across a steel bridge spanning the stream are rows of warehouses, packing plants, and the railroad tracks. On a knoll west of the commercial center is the Okanogan County Courthouse, a semimission type of structure in gray concrete, with a jail above the two floors of offices. An ornate cupola rises above the entrance, and expansive green lawns surround the buildings. On Queen Street, one block right of the highway, is the F1rst Method1st Church, a building of unusual design, faced with stones of varying shapes and sizes. The F1re Stat1on, on Pine St. (R), is an old fash- ioned wooden building with square tower, erected in 1910. Many fine houses with landscaped grounds, shaded by weeping willows and poplars, occupy a sloping bench on one side of the town. Okanogan's leading hotel offers the "howdy-stranger-hitch-and-come-in" hospitality of the earlier West. Situated approximately 20 miles from the site of the first American settlement in Washington Territory, Old Fort Okanogan, the town embraces the two prior settlements of Pogue and Alma. Okanogan began with the old trading post of "Pard" Cummings, established in 1886. At that time, river transportation was limited: only during May and June, when the water was high, could steamboats reach Okanogan. Consisting of little but a river landing and a general store for more than a decade, the settlement finally attracted other enterprises. Orchards blossomed near streams on the near-by flats. When irrigation from a reservoir at Conconully was obtained in 1906, it became a thriving town. The name Okanogan was adopted in November 1906. The Great Northern ran a branch line from Wenatchee in 1915, and the county seat was acquired, stimulating future growth. From the river bank at Tyee Street, a curiously elevated "high bridge" once arched across the Okanogan River to its east bank. Lack of a bridge had troubled Okanogan citizens: Oroville and Riverside had spanned the Okanogan prior to 1907, but Okanogan still depended on a ferry. The building of the "high bridge," now replaced by a steel structure, encouraged trade from the mines and farms and from the Indian reservation across the river. The steeply inclined bridge, widely ridiculed, permitted even the tallest steamer stacks to pass beneath it, with more than 11 feet to spare.
I. Right from Okanogan on a bituminous-surfaced road that climbs westward from the city center to POGUE FLAT, 1 m., 5,000 acres of productive apple orchards. These fruitful orchards, in what was once barren desert, are the direct result of one of the first irrigation projects undertaken by the United States Reclamation Service, in 1906. Feeding of the life-giving water began in 1910. In April and early May the valley is a fairyland; apple blossoms, with their beautiful tints and sweet aroma, contrast with drab hillsides and the pungent odor of sagebrush. During June and July the trees are thinned; crowded clusters and crossed branches are removed, insuring a larger and more nearly perfect fruit. In the hot summer the apples develop rapidly; their cheeks are reddened by the cool nights of September and the light frosts of early October. The pickers, on high step-ladders, fill their great canvas bags. The fruit is then transported to the packing warehouse, sorted, wrapped, boxed, labeled, and stored in large cold-storage plants for shipment. The road continues from Pogue Flat through a narrow irrigated valley crowded with small farms and orchards. At 16 m. the road crosses a small creek linking CONCONULLY LAKE (R) and Conconully Reservo1r (L). The reservoir was formed by the damming of Salmon Creek in connection with a Federal irrigation project. The crescent- shaped lake is a natural body of water, fed by fresh mountain streams and shadowed by pine-fringed ridges. CONCONULLY (Ind. cloudy), 17 m. (2,358 alt., 187 pop.), is a cluster of old buildings in a mountain cup. The town came into existence in 1886 with a rush of prospectors to the rich Salmon Creek district. Arriving in the spring, the gold-seekers pitched tents; with the coming of colder weather, cabins replaced canvas; timber operations supple- mented, and eventually supplanted, mining as the town's main industry. In 1888 Conconully became the county seat. In 1892 it suffered a disastrous fire; the depression of 1893 caught it off balance; and after 1915 Conconully became a ghost town. a. Right from Conconully a road winds through a heavily timbered section, the air odorous with pine, to Salmon Meadows Forest Camp, 10 m. (4,500 alt.), from which trails radiate to good hunting and fishing spots. A ski run and lodge have been recently constructed here by the forest service. Lakes are revealed from the tops of knolls and peaks. At 18 m. is SINLAHEKIN CREEK. Along the rocky walls of this turbulent mountain stream are numerous Indian sign writings and paintings. To the right is TIFFANY MOUNTAIN (8,275 alt), named for Will Tiffany, who maintained a camp in a meadow at the foot of its walls. Tiffany, of the same family as the New York jewelers, was one of Theodore Roosevelt's Rough Riders and lost his life in Cuba during the Spanish-American War. b. Left from Conconully on a dirt road that winds through the forest are the remains of the once thriving town of RUBY, 4 m. Vandals, fire, weather, and neglect have reduced it to ruins which convey no hint of the fact that here stood, in the early eighties, the liveliest little town in a lively county, the Babylon of Washington Territory, and Okanogan's first official county seat. Whatever may have been lost when Ruby declined, the peace and dignity of the commonwealth enjoyed a decided gain. Its citizens were miners and the adventurers who commonly follow mining stampedes; quick trigger-fingers and bad whisky were predominant in its civic life. One of its leading citizens com- bined cattle-rustling with running a butcher shop, until cattlemen of the district descended on Ruby in a body, bringing a rope. The miners rallied to the defense of the butcher, who was esteemed for his generosity in "setting 'em up" at the bar. Civil war threatened and Guy Waring, appointed prosecutor, proposed that the butcher be sent to Colville for trial. Though the miners insisted that the trial be held at Ruby, the accused was eventually started toward Colville under guard. His guards got drunk and let him escape; whereupon Waring issued warrants for the guards as well as for their erstwhile prisoner. All were freed after a trial held at Ruby. At 8 m. on this road is another ghost town. LOOP LOOP (Fr. loup, meaning
wolf), which began with a boom but collapsed in a hurry. Fifty years ago a piece of ore, an assay certificate, and a ten-foot shaft in a hillside might at once bring $100,000 in promotion. Falling prices of metals and rocketing living costs combined to halt mining activities. Loop Loop's residents departed, taking with them everything of value that could be moved. All that remains now is one old building and an abandoned brickyard. Recent rises in the price of precious metals have resulted in renewed mining activity in the vicinity, but Loop Loop has not yet revived. The Indians named the Conconully Valley Sklow Outiman (money hole), because here a trapper could catch a beaver any time and use its pelt as money at Fort Okanogan. 2. L. from Okanogan a gravel road crosses the river and at 3 m. forms a junction with another gravel road: R. here through rolling semidesert country to OMAK LAKE, 8 m., where the road clings to the heights hundreds of feet above the lake's western shore. Across the waters rise rocky, almost perpendicu- lar walls, with scrubby pines rooted in their many fissures. At the water level a strikingly white band, formed by alkaline deposits, completely encircles the lake. Because of its alkaline content Omak Lake has no fish. South of Okanogan US 97 clings to the west bank of the Okanogan River. At 53.5 m. is the junction with an unpaved road. Right on this road along the LOOP LOOP TRAIL old route to the Methow Valley. In spring or fall this area offers delightful trail trips. The timber and the rich foliage lend fascination to the rapidly changing landscape. Butter- cups fringe the meadows bordering moist creek banks. The flaming red heads of the Indian paintbrush glow among the chaparral, from whose roots they derive subsistence. The pure white flowers of the syringa, numerous and frag- rant, flash against the blue-gray hillsides. The gay heads, rose-pink, yellow, and white, of the creeping verbena peek from behind the scattered rocks. Gol- denrod, bane of hay fever victims, gilds the somber hillsides. Sagebrush, grease- wood, and clumps of bunch grass obscure these wild blooms in the distance, while tamarack, ponderosa pine and fir bristle from the rocky foothills. MALOTT, 60.6 m. (815 alt., 381 pop.), virtually wiped out on April 19, 1938, by a flood resulting from the bursting of a dam on Loop Loop Creek, has been rebuilt into an attractive modern town. Its former dingy structures were carried away when the water swept through the main street. No lives were lost, and normal shipments of fruit and livestock were not interrupted. Sand drifts and other scat- tered evidences of the flood are still visible throughout the vicinity. At 62.3 m. is the junction with a dirt road. Right, this road follows the old CHILLOWIST TRAIL, an early route to the Methow Valley. Since the carving of a road in the steep rocky sides of the Methow River, farther south, this trail has been little traveled. It winds up through the Chiliwist Canyon, thence over trails that climb the 30-to-50-degree mountain slopes to the summit, then leads down into the beautiful and boun- teous Methow Valley. The trail was named after Indian Charley Chiliwist, who formerly lived at the mouth of the creek. South of Malott, US 97 leaves the Okanogan River and passes through Brewster Flats. A high plateau rises across Okanogan River (L), and the highway is bordered by occasional wheat farms and un- painted houses and out-buildings. Here the mile-wide Okanogan Valley, extending from British Columbia, joins the Columbia River Valley. At 75.1 m. is the junction with a gravel road.
Left here 3.2 m. to a point above the west bank of the Okanogan River, near its confluence with the Columbia. On a broad flat across the Okanogan (R) stands a stone tower marking the S1te of Old Fort Okanogan; no road leads to the site. There, above a crude trading post built of driftwood caught in the bend of the river, the Astor interests in 1811 raised the first American flag to float over a permanent settlement in the Pacific Northwest. As a sequel to the War of 1812, Fort Okanogan passed to the North West Company, then to Hudson's Bay Company. The original buildings of the Okanogan post were replaced in September 1815, by a new dwelling house with large dining hall, two good houses for the men, and a trading post. This establishment lay across the triangular flat and on the Columbia River. It was surrounded by palisades. Brass four-pounders, located at strategic points, discouraged attack. The Okanogan post declined when the Hudson's Bay Company broke a new trail for its brigade along the Similkameen and Coquilla Rivers to Fort Hope on the Fraser River. It was abandoned by them after the Treaty of 1846, which defined the present boundary between Canada and the United States. In the early sixties, some of the buildings at Fort Okanogan were still standing, but now there are only the depressions in the ground where the cellars were dug. Clearer traces of original buildings remain in a spot a mile or more distant— the second Fort Okanogan. A flood in 1894 swept away the timbers left from the first fort, and a stony beach now covers most of the site. BREWSTER, 77 m. (812 alt., 447 pop.), at the confluence of the Okanogan and Columbia Rivers, a village of a few new brick and many old frame buildings, surrounded by lawn-bordered houses scat- tered among the sagebrush, is an oasis in this desert country. Originally, it was a junction point for navigation on the Okanogan and Columbia Rivers. The first attempt to build here was in 1892, but the depression of 1893 delayed development. In 1896 a steamboat company, which had been mooring across the river at Fort Columbia and was desirous of establishing a new landing, purchased the present site of Brewster from one John Bruster, whose name has been altered in naming the town. Left from Brewster on State 10, unpaved, across a bridge spanning the Columbia River, is BRIDGEPORT, 12 m. (817 alt., 320 pop.). Once an im- portant landing point for boats of the Columbia, it is today a surprisingly modern little settlement, 15 miles from the nearest railroad. After its liberation from Coulee Dam about 30 miles upstream, the Columbia River behaves weirdly. In Nespelem Canyon the currents leap and dive over basaltic boulders, spewing wrathfully on the confining walls. This turbulence continues for several miles to the mouth of Foster Creek, where wild rapids foam and rage. The current then slack- ens for a short distance, then rocky points converge and force the Colum- bia's conflicting currents between them. For 25 miles, the river is a long succession of rapids and whirlpools, surrounded by cliffs, coulees, and headlands. PATEROS, 82.6 m. (780 alt., 484 pop.), with shady streets, is an inviting spot in this customarily hot and dry area. Formerly called Ives Landing, the town was named Pateros by Lieutenant Nosler, an Army officer who had campaigned near a town of the same name in the Philippines during the Spanish-American War. Situated at the mouth of the Methow River, Pateros is the gateway to the mining and farming region of the Methow Valley. The Methow River, draining
the larger part of the western half of Okanogan County, is crossed by a concrete bridge at Pateros. During excavations on the present site of the Pateros Hotel (L), a number of well-preserved skeletons of Indians were unearthed. From time to time similar relics, as well as arrowheads and other artifacts, are found in the vicinity, indicating that in times past an important Indian settlement existed at this point. South of the bridge at 83.2 m. is a junction with State 16, a bitu- minous surfaced road. Right on this road into the METHOW VALLEY, which conforms to the windings and twistings of the river from which it takes its name. The valley is extremely narrow, but wherever the hills draw back to form more gentle slopes, or leave level meadows beside the stream, there are orchards, houses, cultivated fields, and grazing animals. Along the road, or above or below it, runs the valley's lifeline, the main irrigation ditch. Without the water it brings them, at the low cost of $3 yearly per acre, farmers could coax but a scant yield from this valley's rich floor. The Methow Valley has no large towns. The people live on their farms, or engage in bounty-hunting, trapping, herding, prospecting, and logging. They regard towns as places in which to trade, vote, and spend holidays—tjle traditional attitude of the old West. On weekdays and special occasions, these trading centers take on the appearance of pioneer towns, with hitching rails, haphazard sidewalks, and crude plumbing; riders on horseback, buckboards, and buggies; and men with tanned faces and alert eyes in chaps and spurs, or blue jeans and stetsons. It was mining that, in the nineties, brought the valley its first and only boom; and mines, gold, silver, lead, tungsten, and copper, are being worked in the surrounding hills today. Cattle and sheep are also raised here, and some logging is also carried on; but fruit raising, farming, and dairying are the chief sources of wealth. Apple orchards of the Methow Valley produce mainly four varieties of apple: Delicious, Winesap, Jonathan, and Rome Beauties. The annual apple harvest is a gala event of some six weeks duration, begin- ning in mid-September and continuing, unless cut short by sharp freezes, until early November. Outsiders flock into the valley by the hundreds, and there are many dances and other forms of entertainment. Some years ago Owen Wister lived for a while in the valley and described several local episodes and characters in his novel, The Virginian. The valley has changed but little since Wister^ visit. At 11 m. is METHOW (1,158 alt., 54 pop.), its one short street bordered by twin rows of lofty shade trees. North of Methow the highway twines along the river, skirting sheer banks without railings, and shrinking at times to a width that scarcely allows for passing; its surface, too, is inferior to that of the Pateros-Methow stretch. Near the mouth of GOLD CREEK, 18.4 m., an improved country road leads westward into the hills, through a farming district to a CCC Camp. CARLTON, 23.5 m. (1,220 alt., 100 pop.), has a store, garage, restaurant, and radio shop. Here the valley widens abruptly. To the west, the river still wets the base of the hills, but eastward from the road and river lies a gently- rolling land of hayfields and orchards. Left from Carlton to the site of OLD CARLTON, 0.5 m. The town stood at this site until 1927, when a change in the highway route left it a half mile off the main road. Residents shifted the town buildings to the present location, with the exception of an old hotel which could not be moved; ancient and dilapidated, it is now occupied as a residence. At 3 m. is a junction with a dirt side road: L . off the Loop Loop into fertile Beaver Creek Canyon. On the side road is TWISP, 34.1 m. (1,6I9 alt., 447 pop.), with a high school, creamery, sawmill, and numerous business establish- ments. Here the Twisp River, fresh from the Cascades, joins the Methow River.
Left from Twisp, State 17 leads into the Twisp River Valley, at the west end of which an extension, through Twisp Pass (6,066 alt.) and Cascade Pass, will give the Methow Valley a direct link with Puget Sound and western Wash- ington points. Unimproved or indifferently improved roads ascend the grades of most of the Methow River's tributaries above Twisp, penetrating regions similar to Twisp River Valley. WINTHROP, 43.4 m. (1,765 alt., 365 pop.), marks the end of hard sur- facing in the Methow Valley. North of Winthrop the Methow Valley is a virtual wilderness, highly favored by sportsmen for hunting and fishing; its roads are usually passable only in summer, and most of the terrain is attain- able only by pack-trails. Northwest of Winthrop State 16, now a dirt road, follows Methow River to the little outpost village of MAZAMA, 55.4 m. (21 pop.), a jumping-otf place for miners who spend their winters "snowed in" in the mines of the high Cascades. At the summit of HARTS PASS, 68.4 m. (6,197 alt.), the north- west of Mazama, State 16 ends. South of Pateros, US 97 follows the west bank of the Columbia River through a region of rocks, sand, and sagebrush. Square boulders of all sizes seem like dice which were thrown against the ridge and tumbled down the sloping terrain toward the river. In this locality, camels were sometimes encountered about 35 years ago. Introduced into Washington as pack animals during the early mining days, they were found unsuitable to travel on rocky or marshy ground and were turned loose in the Okanogan country. A species of small cactus that blooms in the spring and resembles the prickly pear of southwestern United States is native to this district. Scorpions, familiar denizens of the desert, are found hereabouts, and black widow spiders are not uncommon. South of AZWELL, 90.6 m. US 97 leaves the Columbia River and bears southwest up a consistent grade. At 103.7 m. is the junction with State Io-D, a bituminous-surfaced road. Left on this road, the route descends with numerous switchbacks into the Columbia River Canyon. At 2 m. is the jagged CHELAN RIVER GORGE which walls in the curving sides of the Chelan River, only four miles in length. This stream, which before hydroelectric and irrigation development was a river of considerable volume, is now little more than the spillway over the great natural moraine dam and the concrete dam constructed to raise the waters of Lake Chelan. There is no trace of vegetation in this rocky canyon except for a gnarled pine looking down from its perch on a high point. At 3.6 m. is a junction with a bituminous-surfaced road; L. here 0.7 m. to CHELAN STATION (737 alt., 71 pop.), a shipping point on the west bank of the Columbia River, where fruit packing sheds and cold storage plants stand near the depot. From this point a Toll Br1dge (60c) crosses the Columbia River. At 3.8 m. on the main side road is the generating plant (L) of the Wash- ington Water Power Company. On the slope (R) above the road a row of modern brick dwellings house some of the company's employees. CHELAN FALLS, 4.0 m. (737 alt., 100 pop.), is a post office and several weathered old houses. Orchards crowd the space between the road and the river. At 4.7 m. the road ends on the west shore of the Columbia. West of the Junction US 97 traverses a flat. The highway is lined with orchards. CHELAN, 104.9 m. (1,208 alt., 1,738 pop.), is the trading center
and outlet for the Lake Chelan mining and fruit-growing region. Modern brick structures contrast with buildings on the wide main street. Water power, water transportation, fruit raising, lumbering, and mining are Chelan's main industries, and the town also carries on a brisk tourist trade. Launches operate to Stehekin and Lucerne on Lake Chelan (see Lake Chelan Recreation Area Map). Sa1nt Andrew's Ep1scopal Church (L), one of the oldest insti- tutions in the region, is an old brown log building with a modern frame and stucco annex. Chelan received wide attention from the press in 1936 when a pension plan was tested by Townsendites. One thousand dollars in dollar bills were circulated, with the provision that a two-cent stamp should be attached each time a bill changed hands. The plan was abandoned after a period of trial. At LAKESIDE, 106.7 m. (1,091 alt., 238 pop.), many boat land- ings lie below sloping green lawns bordering comfortable cottages. West of Lakeside US 97 follows the southwestern shore of Lake Chelan and passes many orchards. Leaving the lake, the highway turns southward, winding its way through coulees down to the Columbia River. Large boulders and odd stratifications are numerous. At 114.3 m. a highway tunnel, 600 feet long, 26 feet wide, and 21 feet high, through a portion of Knapp's Hill, eliminates the dangerous cutbacks and steep grades of the old road that winds above. WINESAP, 117.6 m. (699 alt., 30 pop.), is the center of an orchard. RIBBON CLIFF, 119.5 m., is a hamlet named for the lofty crags which rise above it. Two totem poles, unusual sights in this interior country, stand beside the highway (R). ENTIAT (Ind. rapid water), 124.6 m. (689 alt., 290 pop.), a village scattered about the mouth of the Entiat River, guards the en- trance to a fertile valley and sportsmen's paradise. Right from Entiat by an oiled road into the ENTIAL VALLEY, less than a half-mile in width, a flat bottom land with numerous low terraces walled in by steep mountains broken by narrow gorges. Stel1ko Ranger Station, 11 m., is at the mouth of Mad River and at a junction with a dirt side road; L. here along the north bank of the Mad River. At 4 m. on the side road is a junction with a trail. Continuing on the trail up the Mad River to Mad R1ver Dude Ranch, 23 m., in a setting of small lakes on the eastern slope of the Cascade Mountains. Trails lead in many direc- tions into scenic country and great glacier fields. Numberless varieties of flowers cover the meadows. South of Entiat, the highway follows the Columbia River; the shallow bar (L), just below the mouth of the Entiat River, was caused by the dumping of thousands of boulders into the Columbia by Entiat's rushing waters. At 128.3 m. a ferry (24-Aoar service on signal only; car and pas- senger 50c: night 75c). connects with Orondo on US 10 and the east bank of the Columbia River (see Tour la). Many roads, some of them paved, wind among modern bungalows and farm homes. Fruit ranches in this district average only seven acres,
the size preferred for intensive orchard cultivation. The network of roads permits rapid transit to and from near-by WENATCHEE (see Tour 1a). Continuing southward, US 97 hugs the Columbia's west bank. Shal- low at this point, the river is pitted with many rocks; small islands snuggle against the shores. White, yellow, and brown cliffs become lower; sunburned hills loom left, green and rocky foothills right. After rounding a high point, the highway enters the Wenatchee Valley. Orchards are everywhere as the lava and sagebrush give way to culti- vated lands. At 141.5 m. is the junction of US 97 and the cross-State highway, US 10. From the junction to TEANAWAY, 193.9 m. (1,936 alt., 100 pop.), (see Tour 1a), US 97 and US 10 coincide. Section b. TEANAWAY to MARYHILL, 139.1 m. US 97 The Yakima Valley, through which US 97 runs, includes the whole rich territory tributary to the Yakima River, reaching from Lake Keechelus and Kachess to the Columbia River. It includes the valleys of the Kittitas, Naches, Ahtanum, Cowiche, Salash, Wenas, Satus, and the Toppenish. The Kittitas, or Upper Yakima Valley, fan-shaped, with an almost imperceptible slope toward the Yakima River, drains three mountain lakes, Keechelus, Kachess, and Cle Elum. Southeast of TEANAWAY, 0 m. (see Tour 1a), US 97 separates from US 10 and continues along the Yakima River. Ice-capped Mount Rainier (R) towers in the western sky (see Mount Rainier National Park). An Indian band under the leadership of William Wilson, a rene- gade white, roamed the Kittitas district during the 1860's. The only means of access to and from the Swauk mining area was through this valley, and due to their strategic position, the Indians and their white leader exacted a heavy toll from gold-seekers, cattlemen, and farmers. Wilson was drowned in the Snake River in 1869 while trying to escape with stolen horses. At 0.7 m., US 97 enters a narrow gorge. Massive rock formations rise to form the opposite canyon walls (L), while the river foams and dashes in its rough bed several hundred feet below. Impressive views present themselves from time to time as the highway winds past natural vantage points. Emerging from the gorge at 7.7 m., the highway swings away from the river and cuts through a wide valley given over to farming. Trees here lean heavily eastward, indicating the force and frequency of the west winds which roar through the gorge. At 16.2 m. US 97 crosses REESER CREEK, a small stream pursuing a twisted course across the rich meadows which flank the highway. Entering the western city limits of Ellensburg on 8th St., US 97 turns L. on A St., hemmed by dark old brick buildings, to the city center.
ELLENSBURG, 20.3 m. (1,518 alt., 5,944 pop.), neatly laid out on the flat floor of Kittitas Valley approximately in the geographic center of the State, has preserved much of its early Western atmosphere. Stooped prospectors, squaws in screaming calicos, and leather-jacketed students mingle with sedate professional men. Several Chinese families live in Ellensburg, descendants of a band that followed the eastern Washington gold rush and worked over mine dumps left by white men. An annual rodeo, staged for a three-day period ending on Labor Day, is second in the Pacific Northwest only to Pendleton's famous "Roundup." The event brings to the city leading professionals in riding and roping and spectators from all portions of the State. Originally called "Ellen's Burgh," after Ellen Shoudy, wife of John A. Shoudy, one of the original settlers, the town dropped its "h" by order of the Post Office Department. It is the seat of Kittitas County. The first settlement here was picturesquely styled "Robber's Roost"; this name appeared on the sign of a log trading post, the only struc- ture in the valley at that time. The building was erected in 1867 near a spring, now within the city limits, by Wilson, the renegade. Wilson sold out to A. J. Splawn, a young and adventurous cowboy who called it Robber's Roost after his outlaw predecessor. In 1872 the town con- sisted of a general store, saloon, post office, blacksmith shop, and a few residences. Growth was more rapid after 1883. With the coming of the long- awaited Northern Pacific Railway in 1886, the town was incorpor- ated; when the Milwaukee arrived in 1907, Ellensburg boomed. Gold from the Swauk Creek district continues to pass through. Farming and dairying, stabilized by irrigation, are supplemented by coal mining in near-by mountain communities. The Central Wash1ngton College of Educat1on, E. 8th, D, and Walnut Sts., has a group of ten buildings and several school resi- dences in a setting of green lawns and old shade trees. The administra- tion building, a chateau-type four-story structure, with mansard roofs and a domed central tower over an arched entrance, is the oldest on the campus. Other buildings are rectangular brick structures with pseudo-classic porticos, the pediments supported by fluted columns. Formerly known as the Washington State Normal School, the college is one of the three institutions in the State specializing in training teachers for elementary and junior high schools. It is supported by legislative appropriation, and no tuition is charged; students pay only their living expenses. Established in 1890 by the first State legislature, the school opened in September of the following year. The departments of the college today include language and literature, mathematics, education and psychology, fine and applied arts, social science and history, training school, health education, and music. About 800 students attend the college. At Ellensburg, US 97 forms a junction with State 7 (see Tour 1A). Left on 8th Street to city limits. US 97 nears the Yakima River between alfalfa fields and orchards.
At 26.3 m. the highway enters the confines of the YAKIMA CAN- YON. The high varicolored walls glisten in the sunlight; lower crevices are veiled in shadow. Splashing along the canyon floor is the Yakima River. Prior to construction of the present highway, the only route through the canyon was by railroad. Rugged natural obstacles delayed for years the completion of both the Northern Pacific Railway and the highway. US 97 winds along a shelf carved from solid rock, sometimes by the side of the river, sometimes high above it. From many points along this road, the contour of overhanging cliffs makes the Yakima River appear to run uphill; the river existed before the rocky ridges were heaved up, and it kept pace with the upward movement of the earth in wearing out its channel. At 32 m. an almost perpendicular hill (L) looms along the high- way. Pillars of variegated columnar rock crowd on both sides of the road as it cuts through the solid basalt. ROZA, 37.3 m. (1,250 alt., 40 pop.), visible across the river (R), was named after the daughter of a railroad official. Once no more than a railroad stop, it is important today as the site of the diversion dam of the Roza Irr1gat1on Project, from which waters flow southwest through 90 miles of ditches, canals, flumes, and three tunnels cut in solid rjock. The Roza irrigation division, beginning here, is a narrow strip, containing 72,000 acres of fertile land extending to Benton City, 56 miles to the southeast. Irrigated at an estimated cost of $195 per acre, the soil on the benchland ranges in altitude from 700 to 1,200 feet. The storage basin is north of the city of Cle Elum in the lakes and streams feeding the Yakima River and its tributaries (see Tour 1b). The history of the Roza Project goes back to 1918, when a board of engineers made extensive investigations. In 1935, President Franklin D. Roosevelt approved an allocation of $5,000,000 of FERA funds for the inauguration of the Roza project. Work was started early in 1936. At 42.8 m. a tunnel takes the highway through a rock point and down into a flat along the river at the mouth of arid Squaw Creek Canyon. The rolling hills slope back from the river. In places they are covered with sagebrush and in others dotted with orchards and farms. Green cottonwood and aspen mark the river's course. White deposits of magnesite gleam in the sunlight. POMONA, 50.0 m. (1,157 alt., 37 pop.), has its railroad station on the opposite side of the river. The name, honoring the Roman goddess of fruit, is justified by an occasional orchard. The valley widens out from the river's banks. At 56.4 m. is the junction with a paved road. Right on this road to a modem steel bridge that spans the Yakima River at 1 m. This spot on the river was used as a ford by pioneers. Here in 1853 the party of Henry Longmire, seeking to traverse the valley to Olympia, lost a portion of its wagons and many personal belongings in the turbulent stream. A charter was granted to J. T. Hicklin in 1863 to "operate a ferry across the Yakima at a location somewhere between the mouth of the Wenas River and a "oint three miles below the debouchment of the Nacbes." Hicklin, who in some
manner acquired the nickname of "Jumping Tadpole," operated his little ferry profitably until the spring of 1867, when the river, rising to heights never before known, swept the craft upon the rocks below. SELAH (Ind. still water), 1.5 m. (1,108 alt., 767 pop.), is almost a suburb of Yakima |see Yakima). Fruit-packing and cold-storage plants, bordering the railroad tracks, and a modern business district constitute the town. Mountains of boxes, great mounds of apples, piles of peelings, and the smell of fermented fruit are eloquent signs of the region's activities during harvest and packing season. Selah was the name applied to a section of the Yakima River about a mile and a half in length, lying between the present site of Pomona and a point a little south of Selah. Between Ellensburg and Pomona the river is very swift and rough, but on emerging from the Kittitas Canyon into a level valley it flows smoothly for a short distance, then passes over rapids again. The Indians apparently applied no proper name to the entire stream but used words de- scribing peculiar characteristics of different sections. The name Selah was ex- tended to Selah Creek and other parts of the valley by settlers. Left from Selah on an oiled road that climbs to the top of a high hill; junction at 4.2 m. with a gravel road: L. here to LOOKOUT POINT, over- looking the Naches, Cowicbe, and Yakima Valleys. South of the junction, the route crosses the Yakima and Naches Rivers just before they merge. US 97 enters Yakima on N. 1st St.; straight ahead on N. 1st St. to Yakima Ave., the junction with US 410 (see Tour 2b). L. on E. Yakima Ave. to city center. YAKIMA, 57 m. (1,067 alt., 27,221 pop.). U" Yakima). Left from Yakima on State 11-A, 6 m., is MOXEE (1,000 alt., 325 pop.). This village might be taken for the suburb of a French city because of the names on street signs or over the shops. The inhabitants of French descent, many of them pioneer settlers, came from Canada. French is still used extensively by the old people of the city. The Moxee rural district is dotted with large pros- perous homes. A small colony of Dutch live in harmony with their Gallic neighbors. Hops in this section, developed by generations of growers, are of high quality, rivaling the best of imported stock. When ripe, the hops become crisp, and their color changes from a light silvery green to a deep yellow, indicating that the lupulin content is at its best. The value of a hop is contained in the lupulin, a yellow substance that possesses a pungently bitter, but agreeable flavor. The brcwmaster's ideal hop is said to be not too large, and tender and thin-leaved. The Hop Dance, held in Moxee the last week in September, marks the end of the harvest. The route continues S. on S. 1st St. South of Yakima, US 97 and 410 coincide to Buena (see Tour 2b). At BUENA, 72.9 m. (785 alt., 400 pop.), at a junction with US 410 (see Tour 2b), US 97 bears R. and crosses the Yakima River. TOPPENISH (Ind. people from the foot of the hills), 76 m. (756 alt., 2,774 P°p.), I'ke Yakima, is divided by railroad tracks. Old frame structures, relics of the early days, stand beside staunch modern brick buildings. Hotels and stores with long, wide, creaky verandas line sections of the main streets. On Saturday nights during the harvest season, the streets are crowded with hop and fruit pickers; whole families exchange their meager wages for high-priced groceries and cheap entertainment. Indians from the near-by Yakima Indian Reserva- tion are often seen along the streets—the younger generation attired in the slacks and sweaters usually worn by youngsters; the older people
in bright shirrs, shawls, and bandanas, still inclining towards high- pitched colors. Potatoes of a high quality are raised around Toppenish. In 1909 the Northern Pacific Railway began featuring a giant baked potato in its advertising, and the large symmetrical tubers grown here played no small part in popularizing the slogan: "Route of the Big Baked Potato." Other important agricultural products are sugar beets, alfalfa, wheat, corn, watermelons, canteloupes, and fruit. Olney Park, corner Adams and Jefferson Aves., is a small, but beautifully landscaped park, with a large open-air fireplace. Mary L. Goodr1ch L1brary, 119 E. Toppenish Ave., has 8,000 volumes, including a small historical collection, and a collection of Indian artifacts. At the Long House (open to public), an Indian ceremonial build- ing in the southeastern part of the city, the Yakima Indians of the reservation gather each year shortly before Christmas to celebrate the holiday in their own way. The ceremony lasts for about three weeks. This community hall is constructed after the manner of the ancient long house. It is a long, narrow, windowless frame structure, with a wide opening the full length of the ridge pole; it accommodates 300 persons. The Shakers conduct religious services here; outside spec- tators are not welcome but are not excluded. Indian handicraft objects may be purchased, including colorful, finely woven, imbricated basketry. Brady Leyman's Home Museum (open by arrangement at store), at 201 S. Chestnut St., has a display of Indian saddles, painted buffalo hides, basketry, war bonnets, scalp poles, ornamented buckskin dresses, and beadwork. The social event of the year at Toppenish is the Pioneer Dinner, held May 13. Near Toppenish, the Utah-Idaho Sugar Beet Company Plant (open afternoons, workdays) is a group of large concrete buildings centered by a towering smokestack. The plant has its own wells which are from 75 to 140 feet deep and which deliver 3,000 gallons a minute. A 2,100-horsepower steam turbo-generator supplies electric power for factory lights and for the 210 motors in the plant. In the rear are railroad tracks and enormous storage piles of beets. The beets are fed by automatic conveyors into washers, hoisted to the shredders, and passed into a hot water bath to extract the juice, which k goes into a battery of cookers. The juice, reduced under heat and vacuum pressure to syrup, is strained, clarified with lime and sulphur gas, and returned to the cookers. When the syrup is of the proper con- sistency and "grain," it passes to spinners which, like cream separators, divide the molasses from the white sugar. The latter is dried, crystal- ized, screened, and passed on to the sackers. The factory, a noteworthy example of advanced engineering methods and industrial design, employs a gravity system for handling materials. The materials ar,e brought to the top floor and descend half a dozen times through various processes, then pass through elevator conveyors
or pumps and pipelines to the top to start down into further refining processes. The factory runs 24 hours daily and has not been closed in two years. Two hundred and sixty pounds of sugar are extracted from a ton of beets, and the daily run is from 1,600 to 2,000 tons of the raw beets. The company maintains another plant in Bellingham. At S. Elm St. (US 97) and W. 1st Ave., is the junction with a bituminous-surfaced road, State 3-B. Right on State 3-B, through the YAKIMA INDIAN RESERVATION, the boundary of which is on the western outskirts of Toppenish. Inhabitants of the Yakima Reservation are descendants of a coalition formed in the middle of the last century by the original Yakima and 13 other bands. In 1938 the population of the Yakima Indian tribe, the largest in the State, was 2,933, most of whom live on small farms and ranches. The principal occupations of the Indians are basketweaving, farming, and buckskin clothing manufacture, also some hunting, fishing, berry gathering, and rounding up of wild horses. (/** Indians). Indian children attend the regular public schools, to which the United States Indian Service contributes a stipulated amount. Some attend special regional Indian schools, and a few the State institutions of higher learning. The native Shaker church has many adherents. Roman Catholic and Protestant services are also held on the reservation. Just before root-digging time in the spring, and later, about the time of the first salmon run, there are thanksgiving cere- monies. WHITE SWAN, 20 m. (200 pop.), is an Indian village, named for a famous Yakima Chief. Here, the first church in the district, rebuilt by the Indians for the Oblate Roman Catholic Fathers in 1872, still stands. The original mission structure had been destroyed during the War of 1855-6. During July, in the "long house" within this village, future policies and activities are planned. The meetings are open to the public. The Truesdale House Museum (private), holds a collection of Indian basketry, clothing, and ornaments. A gravel road continues L. from White Swan over a spur of the Cascade Mountains. FORT SIMCOE, 28 to., established in August 1856, the year after a defeat of United States troops under Major G. O. Holler by Yakima Indians, is on a small flat known to tribesmen for centuries as MOOL MOOL (Ind. bubbling springs). According to General George B. McClellan, who as a young lieu- tenant visited the site in 1853, the Yakima had a fort here as early as 1849 to ward off the Cayuse. The buildings of the Army post were constructed by the soldiers of the garrison, two companies under command of Major Robert Selden Garnett. According to W. D. Lyman, historian, four buildings built in Maine, knocked down, shipped around Cape Horn, up the Columbia River and over the hills to Simcoe by pack-train, cost the Government nearly $250,000. The main building, the only one of the original group to escape razing or alteration, was once the commander's residence, and later the Indian Agency headquarters. It is a large, white-painted, two-story structure. Spreading branches of great oaks overhang the main gables of the steep-pitched roof. Little diamond-shaped panes gleam from beneath the eaves. The sides are of vertical batten boards. Windows in the front of the house are tall, usually in groups of three. Within the trellised portico is the large front entrance lighted at top and sides with a score of square panes. The inside walls and ceilings are of random-width boards, some plastered. Chimneys are brick; the several fireplaces of brick and stone. A stair, handrail, and newel post are of white mahogany. The foundation is of rough-cut native stone. The first Indian agent, R. H. Lonsdale, appointed in 1860, was relieved sev- eral months later when serious charges were brought against him. A. A. Ban- croft was appointed in 1861 by President Lincoln. His mishandling of the Indians aroused them and brought remonstrances from James H. Wilbur, Super- intendent of Schools. Bancroft had Wilbur removed, with the result that Wilbur,
with abundant evidence and data, appeared before President Lincoln. The President recalled Bancroft, appointing Wilbur in his place in 1864. His tenure lasted 16 years. Known to the Indians as Father Wilbur, he was honest yet severe; it is said an oak tree, near the buildings, served as a whipping post. A Blockhouse (open) is in a good state of repair. It has only one story, and is weU-fitted, square-adzed logs, with corners dovetailed with two-way pitch. The site of the old parade ground (opposite the building) is covered by the remnants of an old orchard. South of Toppenish, US 97 heads straight across the flat valley floor, crosses Toppenish Creek, and winds through Toppenish Ridge and upstream on Satus (Ind. people of the rye prairie) Creek. Because US 97 is still within the reservation, hunting or fishing is strictly forbidden. At 80.6 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left on this road to CIRCLE JS DUDE RANCH, 1 m., a summer resort. Known as the HORSE HEAVEN HILLS, the country abutting the highway is a great natural grazing area where roving bands of wild horses feed on the abundant grass. A fat, sleek bay occasionally gallops over broken terrain, without halter, saddle, or shoes, his luxurious mane and tail flowing in the breeze. Smaller pintos, more nervous and less majestic, are easily agitated by an approaching automobile. Perky colts worry their mothers by wandering toward the road to investigate the queer, shiny vehicles that raise so much roar and dirt. As US 97 winds into the Horse Heaven Hills, minor streams are crossed. Vegetation becomes greener and thicker. Long-needled, large- coned pines bristle from the mountain slopes, occasionally rising almost from the shoulders of the highway. Here in ages past, the sequoia, extant only in the redwood region of northern California, throve in a great forest; petrified logs of this tree are found among volcanic ash and lava in the area. At 112.5 m. SATUS PASS (3,149 alt.), is crossed. Beyond the reach of trampling feet, wild flowers bloom among tufts of wild grass. South of Satus Pass, the highway crosses Klickitat Creek, flowing between palisaded rock walls. This tempestuous mountain stream, orig- inating in the Satus Pass region, bends westward as the highway spans it and flows through Goldendale and a diversified farming area to empty into the Columbia River at Lyle. It is shaded by great, spreading pines. GOLDENDALE, 126.6 m. (1,610 alt., 1,584 pop.), is the seat of Klickitat County. Brick buildings, new and ancient, front on the well-paved main street. Loggers, farmers, mill-men in pitch-spotted "tin" pants, and cattlemen, some with chaps, spurs, and ten-gallon hats, stride the streets. Lumber and flour mills, box, sash, and door factories, dairying and diversified farming are the principal industries. The town was named after John J. Golden, who homesteaded here in 1863. Goldendale lies at the southeastern edge of the Mount Adams Recre- ational Area, a region of lakes, streams, and forests, where game birds and a wide variety of trout and bass abound (see Mount Adams Recrea-
tion Area Map). The town is also on the old trail between The Dalles, Oregon, and Fort Simcoe. In the City Park is a Blockhouse, a rectangular log cabin that was moved into town from its original site seven miles away. It was built by Major Gabriel Rains during the Indian campaigns of the fifties. Recently, the structure has been used for Boy Scout activities and other purposes. The Goldendale Jamboree takes place annually early in September. The countrywide Grange picnic is held the last week of each August. South of Goldendale, where moisture-laden air blows up from the Columbia, US 97 descends in a series of horseshoe bends through hills that rise from the river's deep-cleft course. The curious markings seen everywhere on the steep slopes are sheep trails. The Samuel H1ll Marker (L), 134 m., was erected in 1921 to a pioneer booster of better roads by his Klickitat County neighbors. Maryh1ll Junct1on, 136.8 m., is the junction with US 830 (see Tour ja). At 137.4 771., on a windswept promontory (L) at the brink of the Columbia River, is Stonehenge, modelled after the celebrated ruins in Wiltshire, England. It consists of a circular group of concrete slabs supported on pillars, which enclose five immense arches and a single horizontal slab. A blonze plaque, inlaid in this slab, dedicates the monu- ment to the "Memory of the soldiers and sailors of Klickitat County who gave their lives in defense of their country." South of Stonehenge, US 97 descends rapidly by a series of loops to the northern bank of the Columbia River. MARYHILL STATION, 139.1 m., is the depot for the Spokane, Portland & Seattle Railroad. A Ferry ($1 per car, passengers included) operates from Maryhill to Biggs, Oregon, on the opposite shore of the Columbia, where US 97 continues southward. Tour 8 (Vancouver, B. C.)—Blaine—Bellingham—Mount Vernon—Everett —Seattle—Tacoma— Olympia—Chehalis — Marys Corner—Kelso— Vancouver, Wash.— (Portland, Ore.); US 99. Canadian Border to Oregon Line, 296.2 m. Concrete-paved thoroughfare; four lanes wide between Everett and Olympia. Great Northern Ry. roughly parallels route between Blaine and Seattle; Northern
Pacific Ry., Great Northern Ry., and Union Pacific R.R. (common track) be- tween Seattle and Vancouver, Wash. All types of accommodations; hotels chiefly in cities. US 99, the Pacific Highway, main highway in western Washington and most heavily traveled in the State, roughly follows the route of Territorial military roads that linked the settlements of the Puget Sound and of the Columbia River regions. In the southern section, it approximates also the route of a branch of the Oregon Trail, blazed northward around the middle of the nineteenth century. The northern section of the highway passes through the most popular part of the State. From many points, it affords sweeping views of the island-dotted Puget Sound and the jagged Olympic Mountains to the west, and of the Cascade Mountains, a blue-green ridge tipped here and there with white, in the east. At intervals the route crosses sluggish rivers flowing through fertile bottom lands, or skirts the edges of high, wooded bluffs. Large well-cultivated farms, truck gardens, orchards and berry fields, dairy farms, and poultry ranches alternate with patches of second-growth timber and stump lands. Between the small towns strung out along the highway are the usual roadside inns, gasoline stations, tourist camps, and crossroads general stores. South of the Puget Sound Basin, US 99 crosses gently rolling prairies, broken by small areas of evergreen, maple, and alder. Dominat- ing the eastern horizon is Mount Rainier, while southward Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens seem less majestic, though only by com- parison. The farms, gardens, and poultry ranches of lowlands give way to forested hills, barren cutover lands, and occasional marginal farms. Logging operations have largely retreated into the foothills, but trucks loaded with sections of huge logs thunder along the highway, and cut lumber is stacked in sawmill yards and along railroad sidings of the scattered towns and villages. For miles, US 99 follows the Cowlitz and Columbia Rivers and, finally, crosses the Columbia into Oregon. Section a. CANADIAN BORDER to MOUNT VERNON; 49.1 m. US 99 Beginning at the Canadian Line, US 99 runs almost due south through a green and pleasant region of truck gardens, orchards, wood- land patches, and meadowlands, and neat, attractive houses and well- built barns. Most of this land was once covered by magnificent stands of Douglas fir, hemlock, and Western red cedar, but today much of it has been cleared and brought under cultivation. This region is favored by an equable climate, tempered by the mild moisture-laden winds from the Pacific Ocean in summer and protected from cold winter winds by the mountain barriers to the east. Seldom are summer days more than comfortably warm, with cool ocean breezes springing up in the evening and frequent showers. Autumn brings fogs and cloudy skies and low-lying mists that settle over the moun- tains and trail along valleys and lowlands. In winter, cold waves move down occasionally from the north, and, congealing the moisture of
warmer ocean air, bring a heavy fall of snow that transforms the land into a white, shimmering paradise, marred only by the hazards of driving on slippery or icy roads. US 99 crosses the CANADIAN LINE, 0 m., 32.4 miles south of Vancouver, British Columbia, at a point marked by the imposing con- crete PEACE ARCH (L). Across the crest of the arch, on the Canadian side are the words: "Brothers Dwelling Together in Unity"; on the Washington side, "Children of a Common Mother." Three annual celebrations are held here: International Easter Services; Inter- national Flag Day on July 2; and International Armistice Day on November I1. The Samuel H1ll Memor1al Park (L), a wooded seven-acre tract planted with many kinds of shrubs and flowers, was named for Samuel Hill, good-roads enthusiast, and commemorates Canadian- American peace and good will. At the southern end of the park (L) is the Un1ted States Custom and Imm1grat1on Stat1on (open 8 a.m.-12 midnight). At 0.2 m. is a junction with a concrete-surfaced road. Left here is a branch Un1ted States Customs and Imm1grat1on Stat1on, 1.4 m. (open 24 hours a day, June l-Sept. 30; 7 a.m.-1 a.m., Oct. l-May 30). BLAINE, 0.6 ot. (41 alt., 1,642 pop.), on Drayton Harbor, de- rives its income chiefly from tourists' trade and from the surrounding farming area. A small co-operative shingle mill operates intermittently. During the Fraser River gold rush in 1858 a tent colony sprang up on the shores of the harbor, only to dwindle away within the year. The town, platted in 1884, was originally named Concord, but was renamed to honor James G. Blaine, presidential candidate. For a number of years fishing was a profitable industry of the area, and a salmon cannery, now closed, operated at Blaine. Smugglers and fish pirates, working out from the safety of Point Roberts, the Amer- ican-owned tip of the Canadian peninsula 14 miles west of the town, levied tribute upon legitimate enterprise. Smuggling was brought to a close, however, in 1910, when the Federal Government installed the Point Roberts Light, the northernmost light along the coast of the United States. In the Andrew Dan1elson L1brary (open) is a collection of 1,000 volumes in Icelandic. South of Blaine at 2.1 771. is the junction with State 1-A, a concrete- paved road. Left here through one of the richest agricultural regions in the State. Logged- off lands, cleared of stumps by a laborious and expensive process of blasting, pulling, and burning, now produce excellent crops of vegetables, berries, fruits, daffodils, and tulips in commercial quantities. Years of intensive cultivation are required to make farming such land profitable. The climate and soil of this part of the State are well suited to the growing of sugar beets, most of the beets coming from five- to ten-acre tracts or from diversified farms. The large fields, comparatively few in number, are planted, cultivated, and harvested by machinery. Much of the work, however, such as the back-breaking thinning and weeding, must be done by hand.
Dairying is another important source of income. The dairy industry has profited from the long season of green pasturage and the mild winters. Today, the area ships large quantities of fresh milk, butter, cheese, and other milk products, in addition to supplying local needs. Poultry raising is also important, especially on Iogged-off lands not yet sufficiently cultivated to insure good crops. White leghorns are favored because of their high egg yield. Products are processed, packed, and marketed by the Washington Co-operative Egg and Poultry Association. Eggs are shipped by the carload to the East, although in recent years this outlet has been partially lost to poultry ranches nearer the market. Another branch of the industry is the hatching of chicks for sale, hun- dreds of thousands being sold annually. LYNDEN, 15.2 m. (95 alt., 1,696 pop.), a substantial, thriving distribution and market center of northern Whatcom County, was settled in 1869. Among its industrial plants are an egg warehouse, from which carloads of eggs are shipped to New York City; a barreling plant for packing strawberries and other fruits; a creamery, operated by the Whatcom County Dairymen's Asso- ciation; and a plant for converting surplus, skim, and sour milk into stock food. Since 1900, when the first Hollanders arrived, Lynden has been predominantly Dutch. Older Hollanders speak Dutch in their homes and still preserve old- country customs in cookery and decoration. In the town are four Dutch-language churches. The Hollanders introduced their native methods of bulb culture with remarkable success, and for years Lynden has shipped carloads of bulbs to all parts of the world. In the spring acres of golden daffodils and tulips of var- iegated hues stretch for miles away from the highways. In recent years some of the acreage formerly devoted to bulb cultivation is being planted to crops which meet with less competition. Berries and garden truck are also important agricultural products. The Whatcom County Agricultural Fair is held here annually in the fall. North of Lynden, State 1-A runs in a general northeasterly direction through orderly fields of daffodils, tulips, truck gardens, berry fields, poultry runs, pasture lands, and trim houses with well-painted barns, interspersed with stretches of forest and patches of stump land. To the right, snow-capped Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan glitter above the line of the Cascade Mountains. In Sumas Creek Valley is SUMAS, 27.2 m. (48 alt., 647 pop.), a boundary town of frame and old brick buildings. In 1858, during the first of the periodic gold rushes, a number of prospectors with great difficulty made their way overland along an Indian trail through Sumas Valley to the wilderness of the upper Fraser River country. Today, the town derives its income largely from the dairy and cattle ranches of the surrounding farming area, supplementing this income by border trade. The two-story brick building housing the Un1ted States Customs and Imm1grat1on Stat1on (open 8 a.m.-1z midnight) is (L) at the north end of Cherry Street. South of Blaine US 99 cuts through an area of small farms, with orderly houses set in neat patches of lawn, and woods of vigorous, second-growth fir and alder. At 2.5 m. is a junction with a concrete-paved road. Right here to BIRCH BAY, 5 m. (sea level, 12 pop.) (tennis, golf, swimming). Captain George Vancouver named the bay in 1792 for the numerous black birches along its shore. Clam digging along the fine sandy beach and salt- water fishing are popular recreations. South of the junction, US 99 runs for miles through second-growth forests, logged-off wastelands, and small farms and poultry ranches. In clear weather the highway offers splendid panoramic views of the dark-forested foothills to the east. CUSTER, 8.2 m. (32 alt., 250 pop.), is a community trading village. At 13.5 m. is a junction with a concrete-paved road.
Right here to FERNDALE, 0.8 ra. (26 alt., 717 pop.), a thriving town on the Nooksack River. The surrounding countryside, largely dairy farms and pasture lands, supplies the raw milk for a condensery and powdered-milk plant in the town. US 99 crosses the NOOKSACK RIVER, 13.7 m., a slow-flowing, turgid stream in summer, a debris-laden torrent when swollen by a heavy downpour or rapidly melting snow. The R1vers1de Golf Club (R), 14-2 m. (greens fee 35c weekdays; 50c Sat., Sun., and holidays), maintains a nine-hole course with a number of interesting hazards. Suburban homes, charming in a setting of shrubbery, lawns, and flower beds, give way to dairy farms and pasture lands. BELLINGHAM, 22.7 m. (sea level, 29,314 pop.) (see Bellinff- ham). Bellingham is at the junction with State I (see Tour 8A). Right from Bellingham on Marietta Road, concrete-paved, through a semi- rural area over a section of which the fine, gray dust from the Olympic Portland Cement Plant has settled like a ghostly gray mask. At 4.2 m, is a junction with a dirt road: L. here 0.4 m. to the S1te of Old Fort Bell1ngham, where during the Indian war scare of 1856 Captain George Pickett built two blockhouses, which aided considerably in alleviating the fears of the few settlers, by warding off raiders from Alaska and British Columbia. On the main side road is MARIETTA, 5.6 m. (10 alt., 200 pop.), a cluster of weather-beaten houses occupied by families employed in the Bellingham mills or in fishing. Perched above the piles of driftwood on the beach are a number of shacks, where squatters lead a hermit-like life. Gulls drift and soar, white wings flashing against the grey of stormy skies as they wheel and tack and soar with the gale, or swoop down, feet dangling like the landing gear of an airplane, to pick up some bit of floating debris. Straight ahead from Marietta on a graveled road is the LUMMI INDIAN RESERVATION, 6.9 m., on a peninsula between Bellingham and Lummi Bays. Today, most of the Indians eke out a meager existence by fishing, clam digging, and small-scale farming. Tribal historians relate that at GOOSEBERRY POINT, 15.3 m., the end of the road, a great battle was fought with invading tribes from the north. A ferry (ear and driver, 25c; passengers, 10c; 7 a.m.-midnight) runs westward to slipper-shaped LUMMI ISLAND, a resort center about one mile offshore. From Bellingham US 99-Alt. (Chuckanut Drive) provides an alternate route to Burlington, above which it joins US 99. Right from Bellingham on State Street for US 99-Alt., a scenic route along the Sound. State Street runs to 12th Street; L. on 12th to Cowgill Ave., where it becomes Chuckanut Drive. US 99-Alt. winds gradually upward along a shelf cut in the rocky face of CHUCKANUT MOUNTAIN (Alt. 1,629). Far below the cobalt-blue reaches of the Sound shimmer in the sun, or matching the grey of stormy skies, surge in a dizzy race of whitecaps toward the shore. At 6.2 m. is a junction with a graveled road: R. here to CHUCKANUT, 0.2 m. (sea level, 60 pop.), where an auto ferry connects with ORCAS ISLAND (see Island Tour c). LARRABEE STATE PARK (R), 7.9 m., is a 1,220- acre forest with a good beach and picnic facilities. From turnouts along the road the tree-crowned, rocky slopes of the San Juan Islands are visible—dark green against the quiet glittering water in clear weather, dim masses of land when rain or mist forms a half-translucent curtain. US 99-Alt. skirts the shore of Samish Bay, upon whose expansive tideflats are large oyster beds. Roadside taverns serve oysters—stewed, fried, roasted, or on the half-shell. At 22.8 m. US 99-Alt. forms a junction with. US 99.
Southeast of Bellingham US 99 swings inland through a region of slight scenic interest. This route is recommended for fast, through travel and for safety during winter months when slides occasionally interrupt traffic on Chuckanut Drive or ice and snow make it haz- ardous. The highway runs southward through second-growth timber- lands and skirts the edge of LAKE SAMISH (fishing; cabins), 32.2 m., glimpsed occasionally through the trees. South of the lake, US 99 passes through rolling terrain, which levels out into the flat Skagit Valley. At the Sam1sh State Salmon Hatchery (L), 37.7 m., an average of 18,000,000 salmon fry annually are reared in the nine ponds. All phases of salmon culture may be observed here. At 44.5 m. is the junction with US 99-Alt. At 45.2 m. is a junction with a concrete-paved road. Left here 0.5 m. to BURLINGTON (36 alt., 1,632 pop.), a shipping center and local supply point for the fertile Skagit Valley. First settled in 1882 by John P. Millett and William McKay, it was named for Burlington, Vermont, by T. W. Soules. Logging operations in the surrounding forests became so extensive that in 1890 a sawmill was built and the Seattle and Northern extended its rail lines to the town. For a number of years it boomed, until the depletion of timber stands in the environs forced a change from logging and lumbering to dairying and farming. The mild climate and light, sandy soil of the area have proved well suited to growing strawberries on a com- mercial scale, one acre not infrequently yielding as much as seven tons. Annually, the town celebrates the Burlington Strawberry Festival near the end of June. Burlington is a junction with an unnumbered bituminous-surfaced road which runs to Sedro Wooley (see Tour SB). MOUNT VERNON, 49.1 m. (24 alt, 4,278 pop.), seat of Skagit County, was named for Washington's Potomac home. The Skagit River has played an important part in the development of the town; in 1870 fur traders, finding it navigable, established a post here. Prospects of gold along Ruby Creek stimulated the activity of the settlement, and when hopes of striking pay dirt faded many of the prospectors began logging and farming in the Skagit Valley. Today, the bulk of Mount Vernon's pay roll is provided by two pea canneries, two milk condenseries, an egg-storage and poultry plant, and a chicken and turkey hatchery. A shingle mill and a brick and tile plant add to the income of the city. During the last week-end in July, Mount Vernon has an annual celebration, whose official insignia is a work hat worn with a hickory shirt. Gay booths line the streets; considerable hilarity is added by the ladies of the American Legion Auxiliary, who in gala attire police the town, "arresting" and trying "offenders" who fail to wear the official Hickory Shirt and Hat. The Allen R. Moore House Museum (open by arrangement), 9th and Section Sts., has a collection of arrowheads, tomahawks, and artifacts in native jade, some of which have been shown at the Smith- sonian Institution. The square, three-story brick Mount Vernon Un1on H1gh School, 9th and Fulton Sts., a model high school for the typical American agricultural community, gives special emphasis
to manual training and agricultural courses. Housed in a remodeled school building near by is the Mount Vernon Junior College. Left from Mount Vernon on Kincaid Street W., which becomes a graveled road, to LITTLE MOUNTAIN PARK, 5 m. (835 alt.), where a thirty-five- foot observation tower affords a sweeping view of the surrounding area. Mount Vernon is at the junction with State 1 (see Tour 8C). Section b. MOUNT VERNON to SEATTLE; 60.9 m. US 99 The Pacific Highway continues south across the flats and deltas of the Skagit, the Stillaguamish, and the Snohomish Rivers, which with their tributaries reach back through many miles of rolling land and wooded foothills to the Cascade Mountains. Turbulent at their head- waters, these streams become broad, sluggish, silt-laden rivers, which have built up broad deltas, cut by sloughs rank with cattails and tules. Occasionally a salt marsh is seen, where sea and silt battle for possession. The region produces some of the most abundant crops in western Washington. The black soil, rich in humus, frequently bears in a single season a succession of spinach, lettuce, onions, peas, and carrots without depleting the soil. Cabbage, beets, and turnips, and their seed, are important local yields. The flatness of the land, in conjunction with the heavy rainfall and the melting mountain snows, often brought floods in early spring. Even before the forests were cut away the rivers frequently overflowed their banks, spreading desolation and destruction over the lowlands; and with the conversion of more and more land to agriculture, the threat of floods proportionately increased, so that the farmer came to look with apprehension at lowering clouds and the steady fall of the rain. He watched the swirling water rising, and not infrequently saw it spread its load of silt, debris, and uprooted trees over his pastures, maroon his stock, and at times even sweep away his house and barns. Today, much of the menace of these floods has been eliminated by the diking of river banks and the draining of sloughs. The highway heads straight southward for several miles through an area of large farms, dotted with prosperous-looking houses and big, red barns. At 5.3 m. is a junction with State 1-E, concrete-paved, an alternate route to US 99. Right here to CONWAY, 0.4 m. (5 alt., 776 pop.), hub of the surrounding farming area. The road parallels the Sound, which is, however, hidden from view by the embankment of the Great Northern Railway. Like a sluggish stream, a wide drainage ditch winds along the west side of the road. Then the route swings up a grade and affords a splendid view of the valley floor overlooking a checker-board of tilled fields, farm homes, and scattered groves of fruit trees. Across the strips of Skagit Bay and Port Susan rise the tall headlands of Whidbey and Camano Islands. EAST STANWOOD, 7.2 m. (10 alt., 359 pop.), has a pea cannery sup- plied by the commercial pea farms, which spread for miles over the diked and drained valley of the Stillaguamish. Bush peas are mowed when suf- ficiently matured for canning, and the pods are then stripped from the vines by machine; pole peas, frequently yielding as much as seven tons an acre, are picked several times by hand during the season that extends over a period
of weeks. The salt air and the long, cool growing season give the peas an unusually fine flavor and succulence. Right from East Stanwood on a concrete-paved road to STANWOOD, 0.9 m. (5 alt., 6oo pop.), near the mouth of the Stillaguamish River. Once the land around the town was a desolate marsh where skunk cabbage spread their broad green leaves and massive yellow flowers and cattails throve. In 1866, a settler named Robert Fulton opened a small trading post there; gradually in the course of years the marsh has been reclaimed by the stubborn persistence of the inhabitants. Bit by bit the pools where frogs croaked were drained and the swaying willows were cleared. An important factor in the reclamation was the perseverance and industry of the Norwegians, who brought with them the experience of hard fighting against adverse climatic and topographic con- ditions. Stanwood has a large oyster cannery and two fruit and vegetable pack- ing plants. Thousands of bushels of oats, destined to be "Quaker Rolled Oats," annually pass through the local warehouse on their way to Iowa. Peas are harvested by the ton. The town is also the distribution center for the dairy farms of the surrounding country. For 30 years Stanwood had "the world's shortest railroad," an independent line running seven-eighths of a mile to East Stanwood. Trains were drawn by "the dinky," a decrepit old Climax locomotive, which wheezed noisily through the streets. Lack of patronage compelled its discontinuance in 1938. West of Stanwood a bituminous-surfaced road crosses Davis Slough to CAMANO ISLAND, on which are many summer homes, resorts, and small farms. The waters around the island are noted for excellent salmon fishing. At 5.1 m. is a junction with a graveled road: R. here to UTSALADDY 0.8 m. (sea level, 196 pop.) (beach cabins, boats, supplies). In the sixties, Utsaladdy was a sizable city, manufacturing and shipping lumber; shipbuilders here produced many boats for Puget Sound shipping, including the J. B. Libby, a side-wheeler, and the Cascades, a large stern-wheeler. South of the junction, the main side road off 1-E, graveled, bears inland across the island, passing nearly a dozen beach resorts accessible by stub roads, to MABANA, 23 m. (sea level, 35 pop.). Left from East Stanwood, State 1-E swings in a southeasterly direction. In the Stanwood P1oneer Cemetery (R), 7.9 m. are the graves of Zakarias Martin Toftezen, who settled at Oak Harbor on Whidbey Island in 1849, his mother Emmerenze, who came here in 1865, and other early settlers. Honoring them is the Norweg1an P1oneer Monument, a rough-hewn, gray-granite slab dedicated by Crown Prince Olav of Norway during his visit to the North- west in 1939. SILVANA, 14.3 m. (30 alt., 656 pop.), is a Norwegian trading center on the delta of the Stillaguamish River. Slowly, in the course of many years, the river has deposited its load of silt, inching its way toward the Sound. The town still experiences flood conditions during the spring runoff. To gain a measure of safety, houses formerly were built on foundations several feet high and sidewalks were raised a number of feet above the ground. Flood control measures have reduced the periodic threat. The route continues east- ward through farmland and small, second-growth fir. At 16.9 m. State 1-E forms a junction with US 99. South of the junction US 99 veers slightly eastward through rolling, sparsely settled country, logged-off years ago and not sufficiently attrac- tive to induce cultivation. This route is recommended for travel if time is an essential factor. At 17.9 m. is the southern junction with State 1-E, US 99-Alt. Left here on the eastern branch of State 1-E to a junction with a concrete- paved road, 3.5 m. R. here 0.3 to the P1oneer Log House, formerly a museum, where the Stillaguamish Valley Association of Washington Pioneers holds an annual reunion, usually in late August.
ARLINGTON, 4 m. (103 alt., 1,460 pop.), is at the junction of the north and south forks of the Stillaguamish River. In 1864 the first pioneer, Captain Daniel Marvin, anchored a scow on the north fork of the river to serve as his temporary home. Although it once ranked with the largest shingle manu- facturing centers, Arlington now has only one mill and, like many other western Washington towns, has turned to dairying, poultry-raising, truck- gardening, and fruit growing. Northeast of Arlington on a bituminous-surfaced road are TRAFTON, 8.6 m., a station on the Northern Pacific Ry.; OSO, 15.9 m. (207 alt., 65 pop.), in an area of stump ranches; and HAZEL, 22.5 m. (313 alt., 34 pop.), a row of old moss-covered houses, badly in need of paint, around the remains of a shingle mill. East of Hazel the country is more rugged and stands of timber are heavier, as the highway gradually ascends. Beneath snow-capped Jumbo Peak and the Whitehorse Mountains is DAR- RINGTON, 29.2 m. (527 alt., 400 pop.), a lumber town huddled along the banks of the Sauk River. A few modern, well-kept houses contrast with many drab, unpainted, jerry-built structures. In K1ng Tut Hall (L) husky loggers and their women folk view movies, dance to mountain music, and hold their social affairs. "Tarheels," North Carolinians and their families who came here in 1914-16, constitute a large part of the population. Tourist trade brings revenue to Darrington, the last outpost in the picturesque region of the Sauk and Suiattle Rivers, the Whitechuck Valley, and the Squire Creek country. Five major trails lead into the wilderness surrounding GLACIER PEAK (alt. 10,436) ; the Suiattle River trail; the trails up the North and Smth Forks of the Sauk River; one up the Whitechuck Valley; and another up the rugged Squire Creek Valley to the Jumbo and Squire Creek Pass skiing areas, five to seven miles south of Darrington. The highway continues southward through sparsely settled country, where stretches of small, second-growth forests alternate with pasture land and occasional farms. The S1lvana Cedar Stump (L), 18.5 m., is a section of a red cedar tree about 12 feet in diameter estimated to have reached an age of 1,250 years. At 20.6 m. is a junction with a bituminous-surfaced road. Right here 5.4 m. to LAKE GOODWIN (cabins, fishing facilities), which offers good fishing for perch, bass, and crappie. Southeast is SHOECRAFT LAKE (cabins), connected by a channel with Lake Goodwin. WARM BEACH, 9 m. (sea level, 314 pop.), a summer colony on the Sound, has a long sandy beach, the tide running out over one mile. It is noted for its warm salt water. South of the junction the highway descends into fertile lowlands which little more than 50 years ago were covered by a dense forest. MARYSVILLE, 27.8 m. (15 alt., 1,748 pop.), dates back to 1877. when James P. Comeford established a trading post on Ebey Slough. Today, the city is sustained by mills, woodworking plants, and a boat factory, and is the center of supplies for the several Sound fishing resorts in the vicinity. Marysville is also the ^distribution point for a rich farming and dairying district, part of which was reclaimed by draining the swamps and sloughs and by diking the Snohomish River. Farmers still utilize controlled flooding to replenish the soil by catching the river silt. Strawberries are a leading crop, the soil and climate practically insuring a good yield and excellent quality. Annually, the Marysville Strawberry
Festival attracts a crowd from the surrounding countryside and near- by towns. 1. Right from Marysville on 8th Ave., which becomes an improved road, into the TULALIP INDIAN RESERVATION. At 3.1 m. is a junction with a graveled road: Left here 1 m. to PRIEST POINT, named for the Roman Catholic mission established in 1858 by Father E. C. Chirouse. A scattering of summer homes now occupies the site. At 5 m. on the main sideroad is a junction with a dirt road: L. here 0.4 m. to MISSION BEACH CEMETERY, where headstones mark the burial plots of several Indian chiefs, including Chief Patkanim, who signed the Mukilteo Treaty in 1855 which ceded lands to the whites. On Patkanim's tombstone, a large granite monument, is a bronze plaque with an engraved head of the chief and an inscription commemorating the treaty. MISSION BEACH, 0.8 m., is a fishing resort. On the main side road is TULALIP, 6.3 m. (22 alt., 100 pop.), Indian Agency headquarters for the Tulalip Indian Reservation, established in 1859. The old mission bell now hangs in the belfry of St. Anne's Church, and the old potlatch house, once the center of tribal festivities, is now the meeting place for Boy Scouts. Alongside the potlatch house is the Community Hall, a neat white building used for dances and community meetings. 2. Left from Marysville on 3rd Avenue, which becomes a concrete-paved road, 5.7 m. along the east side of the Snohomish River flats to a junction with State 15-A: Left on State 15-A to LAKE STEVENS (cabins, fishing), 7.9 m., bordered by summer resorts. Attractive cottages, with lawns and flower gardens, alternate with unimproved shoreline where wild blackberry vines cascade to the water's edge. State 15-A skirts the north shore of the lake to the town of LAKE STEVENS, 10.3 m. (215 alt., 375 pop.). Northeast from HARTFORD, 11 ib. (239 alt., 54 pop.), the road continues through pleasantly wooded country roughly paralleling the Pilchuck River, which is visible at times through the trees. GRANITE FALLS, 16 m. (396 alt., 683 pop.), lies between the South Fork of the Stillaguamish River and the Pilchuck River, whose narrow but fertile valleys are being converted to agricultural uses—dairying, poultry raising, berry growing, and truck farming. Two mills in the town manufacture cedar shakes and shingles; and some logs are still obtained from the surrounding forests, although much of the best timber has been cut. Granite Falls, first settled in 1885, was named for the falls about one and one-half miles east of town where the Stillaguamish River cascades over granite ledges and swirls around huge boulders. Deep quiet pools and sandy riffles are excellent fishing spots for trout. For a time the town flourished on the hopes that some of the many copper, silver, and gold prospects would become major mining develop- ments. Today, a few exploratory mines are being worked and a small stamp mill is operating. East of Granite Falls State 15-A becomes an unnumbered bituminous-surfaced road. The Canyon Creek Lodge (camping), 20 m., on the banks of Canyon Creek, is a favorite recreation spot. Near by is a nine-hole golf course. ROBE, 23 m. (896 alt., 125 pop.), is a trail center above which tower the peaks of the Green Mountains and Mount Pilchuck. East of Robe the country becomes increasingly rough and wild, while far below the road the Still- aguamish River dashes between walls of green-black basalt. Trees cling to the precipitous mountain flanks. Rustic VERLOT CAMP, 29 m. , is a popular headquarters for picnicking, fishing, and hunting. The Verlot Forest Ranger Stat1on should be visited to obtain information on forest regulations. East of Verlot Camp, the road follows the right-of-way of the old Everett and Monte Cristo Railroad, which in the nineties transported the ores from the district to a smelter at Everett. At the ghost town of GOLD BASIN, 31.1 m., once the center of a mining area, is a camp which furnishes limited accommodations. SILVERTON, 40 m.
(1,100 alt., 15 pop.), a ghost mining town, once produced considerable copper. At the base of BIG 4 MOUNTAIN is the Big 4 Inn (golf, tennis; saddle and pad horses; guides), 44.2 m. in an area of rugged mountains; crystal streams and alpine lakes afford good fishing. A good trail leads eastward to MONTE CRISTO, 17 m., a wide-open mining town in the nineties, when it had seven saloons, a number of gambling and dance halls, and dreams of Eldorado. Today, mouldering remains of a few buildings, a few gaping holes, once the entrance to mine tunnels, and a few prospectors, still hopefully work- ing with pick and shovel, are all that remain of the town that Rockefeller built. South of Marysville US 99 crosses Ebey, Steamboat, and Union Sloughs and the Snohomish River by means of large steel and concrete bridges, constructed at a cost of approximately $1,000,000. EVERETT, 33.1 m. (sea level—200 alt., 30,224 pop.), (see Everett). Everett is at the junction with State 15, the Stevens Pass Highway (see Tour 1C). 1. Right from Everett on 41st St., which becomes State 1-I, along the shore of Possession Sound. MUKILTEO, 5 m. (sea level- 150 alt., 450 pop.), sprawls along the Sound and a salt-water lagoon. Once an active sawmill town, today, since the gutting of the Crown Mill Company plant by fire, little more than the remnants of lumber yards remains as a reminder of the past. Ferries (passengers 30c one <way; car and driver 65c) run to Columbia Beach on Whidbey Island, whose bluffs are visible to the west across Possession Sound (see Tour iC). A granite shaft at the southeast end of the town on the school- house lawn (R) marks the Muk1lteo Treaty Grounds, where on January 22, 1855, Governor Isaac I. Stevens and a number of Indian chiefs signed an agreement ceding all the lands from Point Pully northward to the whites. At 11 m. is the southern junction of State 1-I with US 99. 2. Left (straight ahead) from Everett on S. Rucker Ave. on State 2-A, a US 99-Alt. to Seattle. SILVER LAKE, 6.5 m. (swimming, boating), is a popular lake resort. The route winds southward through fertile valleys between cut- over lands. Occasional skidroads and many stumps and snags remain from the years, around the turn of the century, when the area was logged. BOTHELL, 17 m. (54 alt., 794 pop.), on the Sammamish River near the northern end of Lake Washington, was named for the Bothell family, which started a sawmill here in 1886 and platted the town two years later. Early-day transportation was by steamer down the narrow stream and across the lake to Seattle. Today, the town draws its income largely from dairying and farming. At Bothell is the junction with State 2. Right from Bothell, State 2 winds southward through the valley of the Sammamish Slough and then runs southwestward paralleling LAKE WASH- INGTON. KENMORE, 19.1 m. (75 alt., 400 pop.), and LAKE FOREST PARK, 21 m. (30 alt., 900 pop.), are suburban-home districts of Seattle. The Acac1a Park Cemetery, 22.4 m. (R), with a masonry entrance, centers around an imposing mausoleum set in a sweeping lawn. State 2 becomes Roosevelt Way, which in turn becomes Eastlake Blvd.; R. on Fairview Ave. N.; R. on Virginia St. to Westlake Ave., 31.7 m., where State 2 forms a junction with US 99 in Seattle. South of Everett US 99 bears in a slightly westerly direction along a high ridge. At 49.2 m. on US 99 is a junction with State 1W, a concrete- paved road. Right here to EDMONDS, 4 m. (9 alt., 1,288 pop.), a quiet town midway between Seattle and Everett on Puget Sound. In 1868 Pleasant H. Elwell
built a cabin here; four years later George Bracket!, who subsequently became the town's first mayor, seeking refuge from a storm, saw the possibilities of the heavily forested area near water transportation and shortly thereafter, purchased the Elwell Claim. Soon the settlement became a logging and sawmill center. Edmonds is probably the only town in the United States that included the names of animals on its petition for incorporation. It is said that, in 1890, when the petition was drawn up, it was discovered that it fell short by two names of the_ required number, and those of two oxen, Bill and Bolivar, were added. The income of the town is today drawn chiefly from poultry raising, a large co-operative shingle mill, and commercial flower gardens. Edmonds offers unusually fine views of the Sound. Westward, across a stretch of water, is the jagged line of the Olympic Mountains. Edmonds is the only port of Puget Sound from which the Juan de Fuca Strait can be seen between the maze of islands. Ferries run to Port Ludlow and Port Townsend on the Olympic Peninsula and to Kingston on Kitsap Peninsula. ECHO LAKE (L), 49.7 m., is a bathing resort. Here is a junction with a concrete-paved road. Right here 0.5 m. to the F1r1.ands Sanator1um, the Northwest's largest tuberculosis isolation hospital, surrounded by green lawns and shade trees. At 50.2 m. is a junction with a concrete-paved road. Right here to RICHMOND BEACH, 3 m. (sea level, 780 pop.), a suburban town within easy commuting distance of Seattle. Once industrially active, with a cooperage plant and a brickyard, Richmond Beach today is a quiet suburb deriving its support largely from Seattle. On the shore is a crematory for obsolete ships, where old hulls are beached and burned and their metal salvaged for scrap iron. Richmond Beach is also the location of many large oil storage tanks, which squat like huge mushrooms along the water front. South of the junction US 99 runs between fruit and vegetable stands, scattered houses, and suburban beer parlors, roadhouses, and skating rinks catering to those seeking out-of-town amusements. Tawdry dur- ing the day, the establishments at night are brilliant with the blaze of red, white, green, and blue neon signs. On Saturday night, especially, business flourishes. From the dance floors come the throb of drums, the wail of saxophone, and the blare of trumpet and clarinet. In the early morning hours the music ceases, the lights are extinguished, and the traffic flows back to the city. Evergreen (R) and Washell1 (L) Cemeter1es 53.8 m., ter- raced stretches of velvet lawn, flowering shrubs, and scattered trees, border the highway. Houses and small community trading centers in- crease in number until the suburban area merges with the city and US 99 becomes Aurora Avenue. SEATTLE, 60.9 m. (sea level—514 alt., 368,302 pop.), (see Seattle). Section c. SEATTLE to OLYMPIA, 61.6 m. US 99 This section of the Pacific Highway lies through Washington's State Capital and some of its largest cities. Skirting the bays of lower Puget Sound, US 99 passes through the State's most densely populated and most highly industrialized area, yet woodland stretches and thinly settled farming districts are met with just outside these centers. Towns off the main route are, for the most part, rather widely separated. Rolling hills enclose the numerous river valleys of the northern portion, while, southward, the land levels off into a prairie. Tangles of Scotch broom,
masses of yellow bloom in spring and summer, cover miles of the open forest, and in season the prairie is blue with camas flowers. Around the seaport cities of Seattle, Tacoma, and Olympia are con- centrated most of the shipping and the manufacturing of western Wash- ington. Although lumber and fish account for much of the maritime commerce, the Sound ports are also an outlet for the agricultural produce of the entire State, from Wenatchee apples to Puyallup bulbs and berries. Proceeding south (straight ahead) on 4th Ave. to Airport Way, 0.9 m., a junction with US 10 (see Tour lb), US 99 continues to E. Marginal Way; then L. on E. Marginal Way, skirting the extensive grounds of the K1ng County A1rport, Boeing Field (L), named in honor of William E. Boeing, founder of the Boeing Airplane Com- pany. Seattle's aviation field ranks with the most modern in the nation (see Seattle). The S1te of the Meadows Race Track (L), which flourished at the turn of the century, is at the south end of the airport. The K1ng County Tuberculos1s Hosp1tal, with landscaped grounds, now occupies part of the old track. The sluggish DUWAMISH RIVER (R), winding to Elliott Bay, is visible at intervals; on its banks, was the old Duwamish settlement, first in the Seattle area, in 1850. Along the low, flat, river valley, cut by US 99, are hundreds of acres of truck gardens, most of them farmed by Japanese and Italians. The fertile black loam, painstakingly cultivated, yields vegetables and berries for Seattle markets. At 8.3 m. is a junction with State 5-M, a concrete road. Left on this road, on the west bank of the Duwamish, to ROCKY HILL, 0.8 m. the "stone mountain" of Indian legends. The village of RIVERTON, 1.8 m. (alt. 325, 677 pop.), appears to doze within the shadow of the rumbling city to the north, undisturbed by the early-morning rattle of farmers' trucks, laden with garden stuff, on their way to market. The Foster Golf L1nks, 2.6 m. (18 holes, fee 50c), stretch along the banks of the winding Duwamish (L) in the shade of venerable maples. At TUKWILA (Ind. land of hazelnuts), 3.5 m. (521 pop.), there is only a store, and a small frame public library along the road to suggest the presence of a town. The residence section rests on the hill that slopes steeply up from the road. Long acres Race Track (open July-Sept.; adm. grandstand, 40c; clubhouse, 80c), 4 m., is the gathering place for turf fans. The pari-mutuel system of betting used here is supervised by the State Racing Commission. A totalizator board, first in the State, was installed in 1938. The track is operated by the Washington Jockey Club. South of the junction, US 99 bears R., crosses the Duwamish River on a steel span, and climbs on an easy grade out of the valley. A checkerboard of the green fields and dark loams of truck farms, operated mainly by Japanese, spreads to the south on the fertile floor of the Duwamish Valley. At 16.2 m. is a junction with State I-K, a concrete paved road. Right here 2 m. to DES MOINES, (50 alt., 800 pop.), facing on a long sweep of crescent beach, its shores lined with summer homes, and suburban
residences. Poultry raising, dairying, and berry cultivation are the leading industries. At 2.7 m., an imposing Mason1c Home, built at a cost of $800,000, overlooks Puget Sound. The main structure and several small frame buildings stand on formally landscaped grounds within a semicircle of second-growth forest. The road continues to SALT WATER STATE PARK, 3 m., which has an 80-acre tract of old-growth forest, where woodland trails, a salt-water beach, and picnic facilities attract many visitors during the summer. At 17.7 m. is a junction with State 1-V, a concrete road. Right on this road is REDONDO, 1.3 m. (100 alt., 116 pop.), a beach resort. In the old days Redondo achieved notor1ety for its illegal prizefights; a barge, loaded to the gunwales with fighters and fans, was towed far enough from shore to escape local constables, but not far enough to appease objecting resi- dents, who finally succeeded in having the bouts stopped. South of the junction US 99 intersects many short roads leading through wooded areas, to numerous lakes that offer cabin camp accom- modations, swimming, boating, and fishing. The main highway leaves the high bench lands and descends to the low delta of the Puyallup River. FIFE, 27.3 m. (30 alt., 135 pop.), at a valley crossroads in the midst of a thickly settled berry growing and truck-gardening district is represented by a string of markets, taverns, shops, and a large, balloon- roofed dance hall along the highway. Beyond Fife the highway is illuminated at night by a special type of sodium-vapor lights that produce a strong amber glow which pen- etrates the frequent fogs that drift across the low section in the fall. At 29.5 m. the highway rises on a ramp to cross the Puyallup River over a steel-trussed bridge. Below, sweep the gray, silty waters of the glacial stream born in the ice-clad slopes of Mount Rainier, some 40 miles to the southeast. TACOMA, 31.8 m. (21 to 110 alt., 109,408 pop.), (see Tacoma). At Pacific Ave. and 26th St. is a junction with State 5, the main highway to Mount Rainier National Park (see Tour 8D). In Tacoma US 99 and US 410 coincide (see Tour 2c). At 38.8 m., is a junction with a concrete road. R. here, around the edge of a commercial landing field, to a junction 0.9 m.; L. here to LAKEVIEW (100 pop.), 0.7 m., a growing community of well- kept modern homes scattered over a flat, grassy parkland, covered with scrub oak and pine. Lakeview's COMMUNITY CENTER, the first of its kind in the State, is housed in an adaptation of Georgian architecture in red brick. Under one roof all sorts of community services are provided: apartments, public and private dining rooms, shops, doctors' and dentists' offices, a Christian Science reading room, recreation hall, and a theater, all decorated in a colorful modern manner. The center serves the surrounding residential area, known as the LAKES DISTRICT. On the main side road is LAKE STEILACOOM, 0.8 m., on whose shores are many beautiful homes. The Western State Hosp1tal for the Insane (R), 4 m., with attractive grounds and buildings, occupies the site of old Fort Steilacoom, established by the United States Army to protect settlers from Indian attack, the first United States Army post on Puget Sound. On the hospital grounds are four residences constructed for the officers of
Fort Steilacoom between 1855 and 1858. One was occupied by General Philip E. Sheridan, Civil War hero. Still in good condition, the buildings are used as dwellings by the State hospital doctors. The hospital grounds lie on both sides of the road and occupy 700 acres. Left of the entrance, with its rustic keeper's lodge and bus waiting room, the drive sweeps to the imposing new buildings which have been added to the old structure. Around the latter are ancient honey locusts. There are over 150 buildings connected with the institu- tion, some housing equipment for the poultry, dairy, farm, garden, and swinery. More than 20 miles oi roadway, much of it surfaced with concrete, link the divisions of the hospital. The main building, with new additions nearing com- pletion, houses 2,408 patients. There are 40 wards with more than three and one-half miles of main corridors. Three hundred persons are employed by the hospital. STEILACOOM (pronounced "Stillatum"), 6.4 m. (50 alt., 832 pop.), the oldest incorporated town in the State of Washington, was chartered in 1853; its name derives from that of an Indian chief. Set amid old orchards and flower gardens, its quaint houses drowse on a hillside above the shore of Puget Sound. McNeil and Anderson Islands and Tacoma's smelter stack and house-covered hills are visible from the village streets. The pastoral picture of comfortable old homes along the quiet avenues is broken here and there by the sharp lines and bright colors of a jaunty modern house. In 1849, Thomas M. Chambers, an American who had taken a donation claim near by, was ordered to leave by Doctor William F. Tolmie of the Puget Sound Agri- cultural Company, a subsidiary of the Hudson's Bay Company. Chambers not only refused to vacate but urged other Americans to settle here, and coloniza- tion of the district began. The Hudson's Bay Company claimed grazing and other land rights under the treaty of 1846, and early American settlers lived in a state of unrest until the controversy was finally settled in their favor. LaFayette Balch founded the town in 1851 by erecting a store and trading center. The F1rst Ja1l in the Washington Territory was housed in the empty, faded old brick building which still stands at Main Avenue and Starlung Street. It was erected in 1858, but when the seat of Pierce County was moved from Steilacoom to Tacoma in 1881, the jail was abandoned. Opposite the jail on Starlung Street is the Peter Judson House, erected in 1855; a few hun- dred feet away stands the oldest Cathol1c Church north of the Columbia River. During the fifties the church was built just outside the parade grounds of old Fort Steilacoom for soldiers of the Roman Catholic faith. When the fort was abandoned as a military post in 1867, the church was taken down and moved, in three sections, to its present location, where it has since been in continuous use; it is still in good repair. A monument marks the S1te of the F1rst Protestant Church erected north of the Columbia. A Deep Sea Aquar1um (adm. 25c) was established at Steilacoom early in the century by a retired sea captain. Marine specimens, submerged in glass globes or suspended from rafters, range from the humble sea cucumber to sections of whales. A tour of the rows of glass globes_ is conducted by a_ care- taker who, with pointer in hand, describes each specimen. Also on exhibition are Indian artifacts and other historical relics. South of the junction, US 99 follows the boundary fence of the UNITED STATES MILITARY RESERVATION. At 40.8 m. is a junction with State 5-G. Left on State 5-G to a junction at 0.1 m. with a bituminous-surfaced road. R. here 0.2 m. to McCHORD AIR FIELD, a 1,310-acre field acquired by the War Department in 1938, the first of eight provided by the Wilcox Bill, signed by the President in 1935. Expanding an earlier municipal field, im- provements under way or proposed, costing $12,000,000, will equip the military base for 2,000 men and hundreds of planes. The field is named for Colonel William C. McChord of the Army Air Corps, killed in flight during 1937.
In 1924 the ill-fated Shenandoah moored here at a specially constructed steel mast, her only landing-place on this trip to the Northwest. Here are new brick buildings with tiled roofs and a great spreading hangar. Other hangars are proposed and a large construction program is under way. With the completion of this program, McChord Field will be one of the finest air fields under Government jurisdiction. CAMP MURRAY, 44.9 m., bordering on American Lake, flanks the highway (R). It is a National Guard Military Reserve, and the guard and the Citizens Military Training Camp are located here every summer, when intensive maneuvers are held in co-operation with units of the regular Army. South of Camp Murray, US 99 traverses a broad prairie dotted with scattered clumps of scrub oak and fir trees. The dwarfed fir trees with heavy foliage growing close to the ground, and the small, thickly branched oak are characteristic in this area, where light, gravelly soil is prevalent. The entrance to FORT LEWIS (visitors permitted, subject to military regulations), 47.9 m., is formed of cobblestone pillars, topped by blockhouse-like structures (L) fronting the highway. Facing the parade grounds, flanked by camouflaged field guns, stands a World War Memor1al to the 91st (Wild West) and 13th divisions, which were trained at this cantonment. The monument is a stone shaft, at the foot of which stands a group of soldiers in bronze; the sculpture is by Avard Fairbanks; the architecture by John Graham. Behind the high steel-wire enclosure are the red-brick quarters of the officers, with the barracks of the enlisted men in the background. During recent years, many new buildings have been erected to house the garrison. Some time before the United States entered the World War in 1917, Pierce County voted bonds to purchase 62,000 acres of land midway between Tacoma and Olympia and present this tract for a military cantonment. On that rolling, flat, prairie land rose Camp Lewis, named in honor of Captain Meriwether Lewis. Barracks were quickly constructed, tents pitched, and sewage, water, and lighting systems installed. The accommodations and training facilities necessary for the 30,650 men who were later to be stationed here were hastily improvised. Most of the war-time wooden barracks and other buildings have been replaced by brick and steel structures. Recently the defense program has led to the doubling of Fort Lewis, at a cost of $16,000,000, for training the Forty-First Division on the ground north of US 99, between American Lake and the Sound. At 48.3 m. is a junction with a concrete road. Right on this road is DUPONT, 0.4 m., (253 alt., 400 pop.), a company- built settlement where approximately 225 employees of the Dupont Powder Company Plant (no visitors permitted) have their homes. Winding down a pleasant forested lane, the road is lined with ornamental lamp standards and bordered by tree-shaded houses. The town has an area of 3,600 acres, more than one-half of which are within the enclosed district where high explosives are manufactured. The settlement stands upon grounds once occupied by old Fort Nesqually,
a Hudson's Bay Company trading post established in 1833. The original fort was built close to the beach but was later removed to a site on the hill, within a few hundred feet of what is now the main gate to the restricted area. Indians and traders gathered here to barter. Sea-battered craft lay at anchor off shore, while their crews exchanged news and swapped yarns. The ruins of Fort Nesqually have been removed to Tacoma, and the post has been reconstructed in Point Defiance Park (see Tacoma). Right from Dupont on the Dupont-Steilacoom road to LAKE SEQUAL- ICHEW, 0.7 m., where a granite monument marks the site of the F1rst Fourth of July Celebrat1on West ok the Missour1 R1ver, by Lieutenant Charles Wilkes and the men of his exploring expedition in 1841. A Monument left of the junction marks the Fort Nesqually-Muck Creek Road, built in 1833. South of the junction, US 99 is bordered by the forested area of the military reservation. At 50.5 m. is a junction with a concrete road, which was formerly the main highway. Left on this road to Olympia, by an alternate route three miles longer than by the main one. It rambles across the Nisqually River and through a park- like forest that fringes the brow of a bluff overlooking Puget Sound and the channels of Nisqually Flats. NISQUALLY, 28 m. (86 alt., 150 pop.), is on the delta of the river. Little of the scattered settlement, except a tiny railroad station (L), can be seen from the highway. At 5.3 m. is a junction with a graveled road: L. here 2.9 m., to another junction with a crossroad, which passes the farms of Indians who live on the NISQUALLY INDIAN RESERVATION under the jurisdiction of the Taholah Agency, which has headquarters at Hoquiam. Fishing is the principal pursuit of the fifty inhabitants. On the main side road is LACEY, 10.8 m. (184 alt., 600 pop.). Lacey has not always been as quiet as it is today; there was once a large lumber mill here, and the town was the horse-racing center of the Northwest. Atop a low hill (R) is St Mart1n's (Roman Catholic) College, (open to visitor! daily, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.), constructed in Tudor Gothic style. A scientist on the college faculty pioneered in the field of radio in the Northwest, broadcasting as early as 1921. Here, laity of the Seattle Diocese meet annually for what is known as the Laymen's Retreat, a two-day period of prayer, spiritual meditation, and fasting. The college is under the direction of the Benedictine Fathers. At 11.2 m. is a junction with a road: L. here 0.5 m. to LAKE CHAMBERS and the DAVID CHAMBERS HOUSE, a two-story structure built by David J. Chambers on a donation claim where he took up residence in 1845. A stock- ade and blockhouse which protected the family for a period of three months during Indian wars have been destroyed, but the house, preserved by frequent repairs, survives. It is now nearly surrounded by other structures, and is used as a club house for the Mounta1n V1ew Golf Club (fee 35c), which operates an 18-hole course bordering the lake. South of the junction US 99 traverses the delta of the Nisqually River and spans the gray glacial waters of the stream by a steel bridge, 52.2 m. At 53.4 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right on this road to MEDICINE CREEK PARK (unimproved), 0.3 m. A large sign marks the place where once stood the Treaty Trees, under which, after a three-day council at Christmas time, 1854, Governor Stevens and the Nisqually, Puyallup, and Squaxon Indian tribes signed the Medicine Creek Treaty. This was the first important Indian treaty concluded by Stevens. At 55.4 m. is the State Forest Department Headquarters (R).
In Olympia, on 4th Avenue to Capitol Way, US 410 bears R. from US 99 (see Tour 2d). OLYMPIA, 61.6 m. (17 alt., 13,254 pop.), (see Olympia). Section d. OLYMPIA to MARYS CORNER, 47.9 m., US 99 South of Olympia the highway, lined with service stations, taverns, lunch counters, tourist camps, and billboards, cuts through a prairie. Thickets of alder and willow grow in the low spots; on higher ground are evergreen firs, standing singly or in clumps. The country grad- ually alters into the broad, fertile valleys of the Chehalis River walled about by hills. Oak and hazel appear, and the highway acquires sweep- ing curves as it climbs through virgin and second-growth forests, then descends again into river valleys. This section, less thickly populated than the northern country, not only contributes to Puget Sound com- merce, but is also a tributary to Grays Harbor on the ocean coast. Grain, truck farming, and dairy products flow both northeast and southwest; mines of lignite and coal and deposits of clay diversify the valley's economy. TUMWATER (Chinook, waterfalls), 2.7 m. (87 alt., 955 pop.), was the Puget Sound terminus of the northern extension of the Oregon Trail. Here, in 1845, the first American Settlement north of the Columbia River was established. During the following year, the presence of settlers provided American treaty makers with an effective claim for a larger portion of the Pacific Northwestern territory than the British had wished to concede (see History). Near the center of the town, US 99 spans the Deschutes River. Near the west end of the Deschutes bridge (R), on the west bank of the river, is the Tumwater Founders Monument, a huge, rough- hewn granite block marking the spot where Colonel Michael T. Sim- mons and his travel-worn company ended their journey in 1845. A bronze plate on the monument bears the names of the 32 founders of the town. Although the settlers hopefully named the settlement New- market, the local Indians insisted on calling it "Tumwater," for the drumming sound of the waterfalls on the Deschutes River. Simmons and his associates went to work quickly; with the Deschutes River supplying water power, a rude gristmill was built in 1846 which ground coarse flour. An ancient upright iron saw was purchased for 20c a pound from the Hudson's Bay Company, and the first cutting of lumber soon brought Indians from near and far to observe the magic of the white man. Today, Tumwater has little industry except for the Olymp1a Brew- 1ng Company Plant (open to visitors, guide service). South of Tumwater US 99 enters a region of small ranches, re- claimed from stumplands. At 4.8 m. is a junction with a bituminous road. Right here 4 m. to MILLERSYLVANIA STATE PARK (picnic tables, stove, shelter, rest rooms), where DEEP LAKE, in a setting of 720 acres of
old forest, contains largemouthed bass, perch, and crappie. Rowboats, bath- houses, and a diving float are available to the public. South of the junction, stone monuments set at intervals mark the route of the northern extension of the Oregon Trail. The highway enters an area of fanning and grasslands known as BUSH PRAIRIE, after George W. Bush, a Negro, one of the founders of Tumwater. Having moved from Pennsylvania to Missouri, where he acquired a modest fortune in farming and cattle trading, Bush gave up his Mis- souri home when it became illegal for free Negroes to live in that State. Believing that the Oregon country north of the Columbia River might become British territory, where slavery would not be permitted, Bush and his family joined Colonel Simmons' westbound caravan. During the long journey and after settlement near Tumwater, Bush gave generously to other settlers from his stores of food and supplies and kept open house for travelers between the Columbia River and Puget Sound points. These deeds stood him in good stead some years later: after developing a large farm on the prairie now bearing his name, Bush discovered that the laws of the Oregon Territory denied residence to Negroes. Some years after the creation of Washington Territory, however, his friends secured the passage of a Congressional resolution granting him title to the land. The highway passes a section of prairie dotted with small mounds of earth covered with prairie grass. The elevations are known as the Ten1no Mounds, taking their name from a near-by town. The origin of these bumps, scattered over the surface of a half-dozen prairies just south of Puget Sound, has been the subject of speculation for nearly a century. Symmetrical in form, the mounds round out from slightly flattened tops to circular bases; a few of them are surmounted by young trees. They are composed chiefly of gravel with a layer of black soil and rise as high as eight feet. Captain-Wilkes, during his expedition of 1841, dug into a number of them, thinking they might be burial mounds, but no traces of human remains were found. Two renowned naturalists, Louis Agassiz and Joseph LeConte, made a study of them and arrived at different conclusions. One believed they had been built by fish for spawning nests during an early inundation; the other was sure they had been caused by erosion following the recession of the ice sheets. Many other explanations have been advanced, ranging from one that they were Indian-built buffalo decoys to another which held that they had been forced up by gas and oil pressure. The most generally accepted is that of J. Harlan Bretz; in his Glaciation of the Puget Sound Regions he concludes that the silt blowing across the surface of the ice sheet covering the Puget Sound area had collected in depressions, and that, as the ice melted, this accumulation fell through to the gravel beneath, forming the mounds. TENINO, 15.5 m. (200 alt., 952 pop.), came into existence in the early seventies, when a railroad under construction from Kalama to Tacoma located a camp on the site of the present town. Some local historians relate that the name of the city was taken from the number
of the engine that ran on the line—No. 1090, ten-nine-o. Others insist that the Indians called the town "Tenino" (Ind., junction, or fork), when the railroad came through and connected with the Olympia mail stage. In 1890 an event occurred which almost split the town in two. The depot was moved to a rail junction outside the town center, and a set- tlement was vigorously promoted at the new site. A hotel was hastily placed on rollers and hustled along after the depot. Several buildings were constructed; business began to spring up, and about 500 people were drawn there. The Tenino fathers, in a desperate effort to keep the original town intact, offered free real estate to anyone who would settle in it and the tide of emigration was stemmed. The truant hotel and other buildings were soon trundled back to the original site. Tenino was front page news in the Nation's newspapers in 1932, when it issued wooden money following failure of the local bank. The experiment seemed to work; and later, what started as a desperate emergency effort turned out to be very profitable: about $11,000 of the "lumber jack" was sold to collectors throughout the Nation. An echo of the Tenino adventure in "wooden money" was heard in the State when, following enactment of the State sales tax, veneer tax tokens were used during a temporary shortage of metal tokens. Tenino sandstone, from near-by quarries, has been used in the Seattle Public Library, the Old Capitol Building at Olympia, and Science Hall at Pullman. On February 17, 1912, a blast in which two carloads of powder were exploded was shot at the No. 2 quarry of the Hercules Sandstone Company to supply the first Grays Harbor jetty with 375,000 cubic yards of rock. A small shingle mill and neighboring farms support the town. Dairy farms and berry fields are seen along the country roads in the vicinity, where one strawberry farm, two thousand acres in extent, is situated. The C1ty Park, Custer and 1st Streets, has playground equipment, rest rooms, and stoves and tables for picnickers. At the south city limits of Tenino is a junction with a concrete- paved road. Left here 3.7 m. to BUCODA, (254 alt., 541 pop.), on the Skookumchuck River. In 1854 Aaron Webster settled the site and built a sawmill on the river. The Indians called the community that grew up around the mill seatco, a name which clung to the town for over 35 years. The discovery of coal across the river brought John D. David, Portland capitalist, and John M. Buckley, of the Northern Pacific Railway, to the scene, where, whh Samuel Coulter, they developed a mine. The village was the site of the first Terri- torial penitentiary. The use of convict labor in the coal mine and near-by logging camps created a scandal that caused the removal of the institution to Walla Walla in 1887. The name Bucoda, adopted in 1890, was a combina- tion of the first syllables of the names of Messrs. Buckley, Coulter, and David. South of the junction is the wide Grand Mound Prairie, where again the odd-shaped humps appear. GRAND MOUND, 25.2 m. (102 alt, 200 pop.), is a scattered community of frame buildings, a combined store and post office, and a
service station. It was named for a hillock near by, which, highest of the curious mounds in this section, rises from the prairie to a height of 125 feet, and resembles a tree-covered butte. Just south of Grand Mound is a junction with State 9. Right 1.1 m. on State 9 from Grand Mound are the yellow-brick buildings of the Wash1ngton State School for Del1nquent G1rls, on an attractively landscaped 70-acre tract. Offenders are required to remain until they reach the age of 21, unless they previously earn their release through credits gained under an honor system. Elementary and high school courses, with instruction in home economics and office practice, are combined with garden work about the grounds. The long, low administration building, surrounded by gardens and landscaped grounds, faces the highway. ROCHESTER, 5.1 m. (149 alt., 300 pop.), is at a junction of the Northern Pacific and the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific railroads. It func- tions as a trading center for the surrounding district and has several small churches and a modern high school. OAKVILLE, 12.6 m. (72 alt., 418 pop.), once a campsite of the Chehalis Indians, is now a small, quiet farming center divided by the highway. There are a bank, a weekly paper, a creamery, and two tie-cutting mills. Cascara bark, gathered in the adjoining forests, is shipped in considerable quantities every year. Left from the east edge of Oakville on a concrete-paved road to a junction at 0.5 m. with a gravel road: R. here across the Chehalis River to the Shaker Church, 4.5 m., a tall wooden structure with arched windows and a steepled tower. At 13.1 m. on State 9 is a junction with a bituminous-surfaced road: L. here 3 m. to CEDARVTLLE (80 alt., 25 pop.), one of the earliest settlements in the Washington Territory. It was homesteaded by James L. (Blockhouse) Smith, so-called because the government built a blockhouse on his land in 1855 as a protection against Indian attacks. The foundation stones of the blockhouse, which burned down in recent years, still remain. Another rugged pioneer, John Armstrong, erected on Cedar Creek one of the first waterpower mills in the district; it was equipped with an upright saw and was said to have had a production capacity of 1,000 feet of lumber a day. The Sam Williams home, a rambling frame structure, was built of lumber from Arm- strong's mill. PORTER, on the main side road at 19.8 m. (75 alt., 387 pop.), a scattered roadside settlement, was named in honor of Fairchild Porter, a pioneer settler of 1860. MALONE, 21.3 m. (50 alt., 300 pop.), is a former logging center on Moxie Creek. The remains of a large abandoned mill still stand. Company houses are mainly vacant, and the company-built store, theater, and offices are boarded up. At 26.1 m. is a junction with US 410 (see Tour 2d). CENTRALIA, 30.8 m. (184 alt., 7,414 pop.), near the junction of the Chehalis and Skookumchuck Rivers, is often referred to as the "Hub City" of southwestern Washington. With its sister city, Chehalis, it occupies a strategic position halfway between the cities of Puget Sound and Portland, Oregon, in a region rich in timber, mineral, and agricultural resources. Lumber manufacture is Centralia's leading in- dustry, and farm trade is an important commercial asset. Once, coal mining was active near by, but it is no longer carried on today. The town, an early railroad center, is now served by four railroads. In pioneer days the town was the halfway stopover point for stage- coaches operating between the Columbia River and Seattle. In 1850, J. G. Cochran, coming from Missouri with a young Negro slave
named George Washington, filed a donation land claim on the town- site. Later, Cochran freed his slave, adopted him as a son, and in 1852 sold him his claim for $6,000. The new owner built a home and filed a plat for the town of Centerville, offering lots for $10 each, with one lot free to buyers who built houses. In 1891, the population—over 1,000—found its mail confused with that of another Centerville in the State, and the name of the town was changed to Centralia. In early August, Centralia celebrates Pioneer Days, an annual event centering around the old Borst Blockhouse. Ox-teams, covered wagons, and Indian costumes are featured in a big parade. The celebration lasts three days. The men of the town have a beard-growing contest, and the longest whiskers are awarded cash prizes. Indian wampum is made legal tender. A rodeo terminates this civic holiday period. Facing Harrison Avenue at the west city limits is R1vers1de Park (R), with shady picnic grounds along the river. Right, is the entrance to Borst Park, home of the Borst Blockhouse (open), built in 1855 for defense against Indian uprisings. Flood waters converging on its original site, at the confluence of the Skookumchuck and Chehalis Rivers, necessitated removal of the structure to the present location near the south end of the park. The old blockhouse, still in good con- dition, is the park's chief attraction. The foundation walls of hewn and dovetailed fir logs rise ten feet to support the overhanging upper fortification. The floor in the extension of this second story is per- forated with holes for firing down upon attackers. Floors and doors are of cedar puncheons, heavy enough to resist an arrow or check a musket ball. The usual loopholes for rifles were cut around the sides. George Wash1ngton Park (R), named for the freed slave who gave it to the city, corner of Main and Pearl Sts., occupies a square block in the downtown business center. In the center of the park are the buildings and grounds of the Carneg1e Publ1c L1brary (open weekdays, except Fri., 1-5:45 and 7-9; Fri. 10-11:30), housing 12,028 volumes. A tall sculptured figure of a sentinel stands in the park, a monument erected by the American Legion to four Legionnaires killed during a riot on Armistice Day, after which a member of the I.W.W. was lynched (see Labor). The Central1a Jun1or College, W. Pearl St. between S. Iron and S. Rock St., in the Centralia High School Building, was estab- lished in 1925. It is accredited by the University of Washington and the State College at Pullman. The Deggeler Museum (open), 712 S. Gold St., operated by W. A. and Mrs. Deggeler, taxidermists, holds an interesting display of taxidermy, Indian relics, mounted horns, fauna, flora, and shells. South of Centralia US 99 follows Tower Avenue to Chestnut Street, L. on Cestnut to Gold Street, R. on Gold to city limits. The building and race tracks on the Lew1s County Fa1r Grounds, 35.5 m., border the highway (R). Here, each autumn, the local pop-
ulation flocks to view huge vegetables and prize cattle, to cheer on the jockeys and horses, and consume quantities of soda pop and peanuts. Near the confluence of the Newaukum and Chehalis Rivers is CHEHALIS (Ind. shifting sands), 36.2 m. (188 alt., 4,857 pop.), the seat of Lewis County. The business district, compact with modern structures and trim shops, has an air of prosperity and leisure. The city began as a settlement around a warehouse beside a railroad track in 1873, when the Northern Pacific built northward from Kalama to Tacoma, and ignored Claquato, then the county seat, three miles to the west. Some settlers in the vicinity decided that, if the railroad would not go to the county seat, the seat must go to the railroad. By 1874, a store was added to the warehouse, several houses were con- structed, and the county seat was moved to the new settlement, leaving Claquato little more than a historic landmark. The new town was first named Saundersville, for S. S. Saunders, on whose donation land claim it was founded. In 1879 the name was changed to Chehalis. Logging soon began in the near-by forests. Lumber workers of Scandinavian, Anglo-Saxon, and Scotch-Irish descent arrived, and re- mained to settle in the neighboring valleys. Today dairying, poultry raising, and fruit growing are carried on here. Besides lumbering, local industries include milk condensing, fruit and vegetable packing, brick and tile manufacturing, coal mining, portable house manufacturing, and fern shipping. In the C1v1c Center, an elevated triangular park, intersection of Cascade, Park, and Market Streets, are (L), the C1ty Hall, a simple red-brick building, and (R) the Chehal1s Publ1c L1brary (open weekdays 1-6, 7-0; Sun. 2-5), of similar design. The O. B. McFadden House (private), 1630 Chehalis Ave., is a historic landmark. This two-story, eight-room dwelling was built in 1859 by S. S. Saunders for O. B. McFadden, who was later (1881) appointed Chief Justice of Washington Territory. It served for a time as the Saundersville Post Office. The house, preserved by frequent repair, has been occupied continuously since 1859. At Division and St. Helens Ave. is the Church of the Ep1phany, perhaps the most interesting building in the city. Left unchanged since it was built in 1884, it resembles the early Episcopalian churches of New England, with its trussed ceiling and ornamented spire. Through stained-glass windows the light sifts in on handmade furniture of native red cedar. Right from Market St. on 11th Ave. to the Wash1ngton State Tra1n1nc School for Boys, 1 «1. The education of delinquent youths proceeds along four major lines: academic, vocational, domestic, and social. Special attention is given to athletics, sports, and music. A large rectangular playfield is bordered on two sides by the school buildings. Right from Market Street, State 12, a branch of the Ocean Beach Highway, follows Main Street to Riverside Road; L. here 2 m. on Riverside Road to Alexander Park (L), on the Chehalis River. Equipped for camping, picnicking and bathing, the park is the city's leading recreational center. In July an annual celebration, the Farmers' and Merchants' Picnic, is held here. The
main event, the frying of a huge omelet in a mammoth frying pan, has been pictured in newsreels and newspapers. At 3.3 m. is all that is left of Claquato, founded by Louis H. Davis in 1852, one of the earliest settlements in Lewis County, and the first county seat. The Old Claquato Church, among the oldest in Washington, stands on a hill (L) beside an old cemetery. It was built as a Protestant Episcopal Church in 1856. The entire tower framing is mortise and tenon work of high quality; even the lookouts supporting the roof projection on the gables are mortised and wedged into the end rafters. The church, standing upon its original site, is still in use. RAINBOW FALLS STATE PARK, 16 m. , is a 120-acre recreational area of old-growth timber on the Chehalis River. Five miles of shady trails wind through the park. A 200-foot cable footbridge, suspended over the river, leads into a forest wilderness. Twenty acres have been cleared and sown to grass to serve as a playfield. At 18 m. is a junction with a graveled road: R. here 1 m. to DRYAD, (50 pop.), a group of mill company houses near the site of a dismantled sawmill. The adjacent hills are a scarred wasteland of silver-gray snags and forest wreckage—the residue left by high-speed logging methods. PE ELL, 23.8 m. (412 alt., 825 pop.), is a lumber town that was intended to be called Pierre, but became known as Pe Ell through the inability of the Indians to pronounce the "r's" in the French name. The town was platted in 1891 by Omar Maurmann, first white settler; later many Polish families, attracted by the growing lumber industry, settled here. A large many-windowed Catholic church, a school, and a three-story rectory are among the outstanding buildings. At 26 m., is the site of McCORMICK, the ghost of a formerly thriving sawmill center. The collapsed ruins of the large mill building (R) are over- grown by alders and other second-growth timber. At 28 m., the site of WALVILLE, the weathered but once pretentious offices and residences (L) of the mill staff contrast with the shabby shacks occupied by Japanese and other laborers, long since gone, like the mill that was dis- mantled when the forested hills were denuded. PLUVIUS, 30.3 m. (746 alt., 10 pop.), is at the crest of the divide. Heavy rains in the region are said to have been responsible for the name. LEBAM, 38.0 m. (189 alt., 400 pop.), a former logging town encircled by low, heavily timbered foothills, was named by J. W. Goodell, its founder, for his daughter, Mabel, spelling her name backwards. MENLO, 46.5 m. (87 alt., 400 pop.), dairying center and home of a large creamery and cheese factory, began as a flag station on the property of Lindley Preston, when the railroad built through this area in the late eighties. John Brophy, a pioneer settler, named the town for Menlo Park, his former home in California. At 50.3 m, is a junction with a dirt road. R. here 1 m. to WILLAPA (42 alt., 320 pop.), settled in 1852. Several mills were built in the ensuing Valley beyond until 1893, when the railroad established direct connections with Willapa Harbor. Lumbering, long on the decline here, is being replaced by farming. A small new business center has sprung up adjoining the rail lines. A dusty road continues north through a residence section that reaches down to the bank of the Willapa River, site of the old town. At 52.7 m. on the main side road is RAYMOND (1t alt., 4,045 pop.), at a junction with US 101 (see Tour gd). South of Chehalis US 99 bears southeasterly over a rolling country, soft in outline, with cultivated valleys and gracefully molded hills. In the distance are oak and evergreen uplands. At 41.5 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right on this road to a junction with another graveled road, 1 m. decade, and the town flourished
R. 3.1 m. on this road to NAPAVINE (Ind. small prairie), (443 alt., *2o pop.), trading and rail center of a dairy, poultry, and fruit district. FOREST 43.6 m. ( 200 alt., 388 pop.), slumbers quietly along the highway. Pioneers in the middle forties settled here on the banks of the Newaukum. Several modern homes stand in the settlement todav. At 47.7 m. is MATILDA JACKSON STATE PARK, a small timber reserve along the highway (R). At MARYS CORNER 47.9 m., is a junction with State 5 (see Tour 8E). Section e. MARYS CORNER to the OREGON LINE; 76.7 m. US 99 and US 99-830 South of Marys Corner, US 99 follows an old stage route connecting Vancouver, on the Columbia River, with Puget Sound. In the fifties the new country, rich in timber, fishing, mining, and agricultural resources, was tramped by eager homeseekers, prospectors, and fortune hunters. Today, the easily reached timber has been cut, and logging operations have moved back into the foothills and the less accessible regions. In the hidden hinterland, abandoned sawmills and logging operations have left ghost towns in their wake. Of the inhabitants who remain, a few maintain themselves by small-scale farming, poultry raising, and dairying. Bordering the road are alternating stretches of small timber, stump lands, and prosperous farms. The Jackson Pra1r1e Courthouse (see caretaker near by), in MARY'S CORNER, 0 m. (L), is an ancient building that housed the first Federal court north of the Columbia River. John R. Jackson selected this spot for a home in 1844, and it became noted as a stopping place for travelers. The building was converted into a courthouse in 1850. A small one and one-half story structure of peeled logs, with hand-split cedar boards above the first floor, and a long old-fashioned porch, it is one of the State's cherished landmarks. The building is separated from the highway by a cobblestone wall. Screened from the road by a jungle of old trees, its presence is indicated by an arched gateway. The lofty firs of LEWIS AND CLARK STATE PARK, 0.9 m. (R), an improved forest area of 518 acres, shade the highway on warm summer days, and the park's rich vegetation exudes a sweet, refreshing dampness. Woodland trails leading off through heavily timbered sec- tions provide short hikes. At 6 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left on this road to St. Franc1s Miss1on, 0.2 m., the oldest active mission in the Northwest and the site of the first Roman Catholic church in Wash- ington. In 183S missionaries from Canada, under Father Francois Norbert Blanchet, founded the mission here, converted the neighboring Indian bands to the Christian faith, and ministered to the spiritual needs of Hudson's Bay Company traders and settlers. For many years, St. Francis Mission, also known as the Cowlitz Mission, was the only Catholic establishment in the wilds north of Vancouver. The original structure was destroyed by fire in the late nineties. Adjoining the mission is St. Mary's Academy, established 1911 and con- ducted by the Sisters of St. Francis.
At 7 m. is a junction with State 12-E, a concrete road. Right on this road is WINLOCK, 5.3 m. (308 alt., 861 pop.), named for General Winlock W. Miller, one of the first Federal officers sent to the Territory for service during the Indian uprising. Displayed prominently near the highway crossing and the depot, a large white-painted egg advertises the fact that Winlock is the shipping point and center of one of the most pro- ductive egg- and poultry-producing districts in western Washington. A cluster of stores along the main street bids for the trade of rich Olequa Valley. At 7.8 m. is a junction with State 1-P, a graveled road. Right on State 1-P, which sweeps through rolling fields of pioneer-type farms. Near the forested hills are large stump areas, and the countryside becomes wilder and more desolate there. Growths of vine and brush line the road and stretch away toward the scarred hills. VADER, 8.3 m. (139 alt., 479 pop.), is a farming community and rail point on Olequa Creek. RYDERWOOD, 14.7 m. (270 alt., 400 pop.), is headquarters for the Long- Bell Lumber Company's logging operations in the district. The town, built in 1923, was once a booming logging center. The dwindling of near-by timber resources and the effects of the depression are evidenced by weatherbeaten and boarded-up cottages. A nursery is maintained here by the lumber company for reforestation. Roundhouses and machine shops for its railroads are points of activity. TOLEDO, 7.9 m. (142 alt., 523 pop.), situated on the Cowlitz River and named for the Toledo, a side-wheel steamer which plied the river in pioneer days, was formerly called Cowlitz Landing, then War- bassport. Here early settlers disembarked, swapped stories, and con- tinued northward by stage, horse, or foot. Today, it is a compact aging village, pushed against the bank of the river, its tranquillity undisturbed by the rush of mainline traffic From Toledo, US 99 swings south across a bridge and runs roughly parallel to the Cowlitz River. At 14.5 rn. are the giant evergreens of BARNES STATE PARK (no accommodations), an unimproved 1,000-acre forest reserve on the Cowlitz River. South of the park, US 99 traverses lush grazing land and crosses the swirling Toutle River. Truck gardens on the valley bottomlands are divided from the forest only by the roadway, along which rumble heavy log trucks loaded with forest giants. The highway rises to a terrace above the valley floor; below is a panorama of river country. The broad willow-bordered Cowlitz, widening at every tributary, flows with graceful bends and curves, breaking into rapids, then slowing into a smooth mirror. Sandbars occasionally thrust above the surface. At 22.4 m. is a junction with State 1-R, a graveled road. Left on this road, which a large roadway sign announces as the "Gateway to Mount St. Helens," to SILVER LAKE, 9 m., noted for its fine fishing. Six miles long by one and one-half miles wide, Silver Lake is extremely shallow, with a maximum depth of ten feet. Along the shore the air is heavy with the fragrance of water lilies, whose yellow and white blossoms float in great clusters among cool green pads. Several small islands dot the surface, the largest comprising 55 acres. On the borders of the lake (R) is Cowlitz Chapter of the Isaak Walton League, housed in a large rustic lodge, built of peeled logs, and equipped with a huge stone fireplace.
East of Silver Lake the graveled road climbs gradually from low stump land, in which here and there are small farms and patches of second growth, to higher ground, where heavy forests crowd the highway. The route follows the course of the Toutle River, crossing this turbulent stream, at 14.1 m., over a rough puncheon bridge supported by two huge logs. The big timber along the Toutle River was the scene of a motion picture made in 1936. The route ascends more steeply, winding about mountain faces high above the river, revealing panoramas of mountain and valley wilderness. In the valley between these high points, giant firs raise a dark canopy against the sky. Caution should be exercised at turns and in occasional narrow places in the road, for heavy logging trucks sometimes speed along the highway. At 24.7 t7t. the road ends near Sp1r1t Lake Forest Camp, on the south shore of SPIRIT LAKE (3,199 alt.), the western entrance to Columbia National Forest. Here a free public campground is maintained by the Forest Service. Close by, on either side of the camp, are two cabin camp resorts where motor fuel and supplies may be obtained. Boats are available here, and rainbow, Montana black, and Eastern brook trout are caught in the clear, cold waters of the lake, the bottom of which is of white pumice. Depths of 1,300 feet are common, and in places the bottom has not yet been found. Shaped somewhat like a bent pin, with one shimmering angle reaching about four miles to the east and another slanting off two miles to the north, Spirit Lake, known as a sportsman's paradise, lies in a primitive region of mountains and small lakes, nearly 30 of which may be reached in one day's travel on a score of trail trips that radiate from the forest camp. On the opposite shore is Harmony Falls Park, reached by boat. During the last eruption of Mount St. Helens, believed to have occurred about 1840, pumice cinders were thrown from the crater, covering the ground to a depth of 10 to 20 feet. Tree trunks, rotting away in this cemented sub- stance, left what is known as "tree wells," of which there are thousands on the south side of the lake. Spirit Lake may have been formed at that time; the eruption burying a whole forest at this point, damming up a stream, and creating the lake. One of the "tree wells" may be seen at the edge of the forest camp. Many of the pebbles along the beach are of light pumice filled with air chambers. Some of them will float for five or more minutes before be- coming saturated. Spirit Lake was so named because Indians of the region, believers in ghosts, interpreted many weird natural sounds of the place as the haunting voices of departed spirits. One legend relates that an Indian brave, seeking food for his starving tribe, trailed a giant bull elk to the lake, only to be led by the phantom to his death in the water; the Indians are said to have believed that each year both of them appeared over the lake on a certain night. According to another legend, the region was the home of fabulous Sialcoes, outcasts from other tribes, to whom were attributed ventriloqual and supernatural powers. At the forest service camp is a junction with a dirt road; R. here 1.5 m. to the timber line of MOUNT ST. HELENS (9,671 alt.), which is as far as a car can go. A trail leads off at this point. The climbing time from here to the summit is seven hours. It is said that the steep north side of the mountain, with its yawning glaciers, is one of the most difficult ascents in the Cascades. CASTLE ROCK, 22.7 m. (52 alt., 1,182 pop.), a rural trading center for the fine farms in the valley, is set on low flat ground along the east bank of the Cowlitz River. Founded in 1883, it took its name from the huge rocky upthrust south of town long known as Castle Rock. Several times river floods menaced the town, until it inaugurated a successful dike system. Dairying, truck farming, and lumber manu- facture support the bulk of the population today. Swordferns, which grow prolifically in the region, and which can be processed for medic- inal uses, are picked by several hundred men, women, and children
every fall. In the spring, the countryside is searched for cascara bark, large quantities of which are dried and shipped. South of Castle Rock, US 99 ascends high above the Cowlitz. It follows a course marked by sweeping curves, passes along a series of terraces, formed by ancient floods, and affords glimpses (R) of the broad and deceitfully peaceful Cowlitz, winding slowly southward. The terraces rise from 300 to 400 feet above the flood plains of the river, along which are fertile farmlands, protected by a dike system. Logging trucks are frequently seen at log dumps tipping their loads into the stream to make up a boom. Bordering the highway at a few points are prosperous-looking modern homes, in strange contrast to the near wilderness at their back doors; precipitous hills (L) lying rank on rank, are freshly scarred by recent logging. Left, on the slopes descending to the Cowlitz Valley, are large second-growth trees. OSTRANDER, 29.3 m. (41 alt., 275 pop-), on the right of the highway, is hidden from view by a jutting hill crowned with trees. It was named for Dr. Nathaniel Ostrander, one of Cowlitz County's first settlers, who took his donation land claim here in 1852. This village, set in the midst of a few farms, is but a gray shadow of the busy little settlement of the late nineties and the early nineteen hun- dreds, when the Ostrander Timber Company rivaled other Washing- ton logging operators in manufacturing the longest squares and spars produced in the world; some single specimens of these required three flat cars for transportation. Forty miles of railway were extended into the forest; but when the company had logged off all the land at its disposal, it dismantled the mill and transported it to another site, leaving the town to dream of its days of past prosperity. Ostrander Creek, which runs through the town, has been the scene of recurrent excitement over gold since the pioneer period. The re- ported finding of a rich piece of gold quartz by one of the early settlers, whose identity is not recorded, fostered the belief that a large deposit lay somewhere in the vicinity. Thereafter the community was periodically stirred by reports that gold had been found along the creek, rumors that gained credence when, on one occasion, a house- wife discovered two gold nuggets in the craw of a chicken she was preparing for dinner. No fortunes, however, have been founded on the gold of this area. KELSO, 33 m. (22 alt., 6,749 pop.), has the brisk air of a small metropolis, compact with stores and business blocks. The industries of the town are assembled along the highway (R), paralleling the Cowlitz River. In 1847 the founder, Peter Crawford, a Scotch sur- veyor, took up a land claim in what is now the northeast section of the town. It was on the main artery of travel between Vancouver and the Puget Sound country; many pioneers on their way north stopped here, and, attracted by the rich bottomland along the river and the timbered hills, decided to go no farther. Gradually, a settlement took form, and in 1884 Crawford platted a townsite, naming it Kelso for his home town in Scotland. Logging on the forested slopes made
Kelso an important lumber center, and the town spread west across the river and absorbed the villages of Freeport and Catlin, which now constitute West Kelso. From the Cowl1tz R1ver Br1dge on Main St., the river presents a busy scene between January and March, the smelt season; for Kelso is one of the world's principal smelt centers. At this time the river is crowded with small boats, from which nets are lowered and pulled to the surface laden with the tiny fish. Under the bridge, from time to time, great log rafts drift slowly on their way to the mills. Houseboats line both sides of the river within the area of the town. Kelso is at a junction of US 99 and US 830, the Ocean Highway (see Tour 8b). R. from West Kelso on 8th Ave., along the Columbia Heights Road, 4.9 m., a concrete highway that curves over the hills through a countryside of well-kept gardens and homes. From the heights, the gleaming Cowlitz and Columbia rivers are visible on the south, a patchwork of farms and forests on the north, and the cities of Kelso and Longview (see Tour $b) below; and on clear days, the white peaks of Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, and Mount Rainier. In the early eighties, a colony of Finnish homeseekers settled in this region. Isolated from Kelso and other communities, they retained their language and customs until good roads and the city industries drew them into contact with American culture. By this time, public school training and association with their neighbors have removed almost every trace of their native speech and habits. Leaving Kelso, the highway passes the velvety course (L) of the Coweeman Publ1c Golf Club (18 holes; fees: 50c weekdays; Sat., Sun., and holidays, 35c for g holes, 50c for 18), which stretches back along the Coweeman River as it passes under the highway. At 36.3 m., is another junction with US 830, the Ocean Beach Highway, (see Tour jb). South of the junction US 99 and US 83c coincide. The highway traverses the base of a wooded promontory and ascends gradually, offering a panorama of the Columbia as it swings westward to join the Pacific. A large island stems the current in the center of this great sweep of water. Ocean-going cargo carriers move ponderously upon its broad bosom and small fishing boats scuttle to and fro. At nights the lights of tiny settlements on the Oregon shore appear. At 42.5 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left on this road, which follows the shelf of the Kalama River through a gorge of sheer rock walls rising precipitously above the roadbed. At 8 m. is the Ka1.ama R1ver Salmon Hatchery. Here, salmon are on view in several stages of development—from the eggs to lengths of about nine inches, when they are released. During spring occurs the strange phenomenon, the return of the salmon, after years of wandering among the currents of the Pacific, to its birthplace. Ascending the Columbia in great silver hordes, the salmon swarm inland to tributaries remote from the ocean, recklessly leaping forward in upstream plunges, tearing their sides against sharp rocks, wriggling through stony shallows, fighting through rapids, many dying on the way, until they reach the headwaters of their native stream. The eggs of the salmon are laid in light gravel, frequently high in the moun-
tains and sometimes 1,000 miles from salt water. In from 30 to 120 days the eggs hatch. The young fish remain in fresh water for a period varying from a few months to as long as two years, depending upon the species and to some extent upon variations within the species. Having attained the length of a few inches, the fingerling begins the trek to the sea, where it reaches full growth. The highway swings against the base of a rocky headland (L). KALAMA (Ind. pretty maiden), 44.1 m. (21 alt., 940 pop.), is on a narrow flat "at the confluence of the Columbia and Kalama Rivers. It began in 1853 when Ezra Meeker, noted pioneer, arrived and built a cabin near the present townsite. Leaving his wife and son here for a time, he continued north with his brother to locate land claims in the Puget Sound country. Although numerous claims were settled along the Columbia and Kalama Rivers in the succeeding decades, the town did not come into being until 1870, when the Northern Pacific Railway selected a point within the district from which to begin construction northward to Puget Sound. On February 15, 1870, the Northern Pacific broke ground for the line, and soon 750 Chinese and 500 other laborers were employed. The town boomed. A ferry across the Columbia River to Goble transported trains to Oregon. General J. W. Sprague of the Northern Pacific in 1871 named the town for the Kalama River. From 1872 it was the seat of Cowlitz County, until the election of 1932 transferred the seat to Kelso. Kalama's strategic importance as a rail and water terminal was ended in 1887 when the Northern Pacific completed its main line across the Cascades to Puget Sound; the branch line was then built south from Kalama to Portland, Oregon. The misfortune of the town was crowned soon after by a fire, which destroyed 25 buildings. However, the long deepwater harbor adjoin- ing the railroad aided in keeping it a shipping point, and Kalama proclaims itself the city "Where Rail Meets Water." Within the radius of one block there are a port dock, the deepest on the Columbia River, three transcontinental railroads, and a US highway. A sawmill and a shingle mill draw raw materials from heavy stands of timber in the hills to the eastward. Kalama is a typical river town; its main thoroughfare, First Street, follows the river bank, from which the residential section rises steeply. Sawmills and the Kalama Port Dock (R) account for most of its income. Strawberries are an important crop on surrounding farms, and the Cloverdale-Lewis Co-operative Berry Association packs and ships annually 3,000 barrels of berries at their plant at the Kalama Port Dock. The sub-irrigated soil of the district is particularly suited to commercial mint raising. There is much salmon fishing in the Columbia River at this point, and a fish company ships annually 600,000 pounds of frozen fish to Europe. Caviar, packed in glass jars, is also exported. The fish business here was started by C. A. Doty, a Northern Pacific branch agent with diversified interests. Ordered by the railroad company to choose between his job and his other enterprises, he resigned from the Northern Pa- cific and devoted his time to the fishing industry.
South of Kalama US 99 traverses a park-like area of wooded country with stands of tall Douglas fir. Descending to a rich bottom land, diked against floods, the highway runs past truck gardens and lush meadows with grazing cattle. At 52.5 m. is a junction with 1-S, concrete-paved for about three miles, then graveled. Left on this road, which follows the Lewis River, through a farming and grazing area and past logging camps to the Lew1s River F1sh Hatchery 8 m., a $200,000 plant for stocking the lakes and streams of the district with game fish. East of the hatchery the road traverses a scenic mountainous country thickly wooded with tall virgin timber. The Cascade Range rises to the east, sur- mounted by the peaks of Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams. At 10.4 m. the Ar1el Dam (R), 1,342 feet in length and 313 deep, stretches across the western end of LAKE MERWIN, an artificial body of water created by the Northwest Electric Company as the first unit of a huge power-develop- ment program. Within the dam is a fish-preservation apparatus designed and operated by the State Department of Fisheries. A ten-ton steel tank containing water imprisons the fish as they come up the river. When the tank becomes filled with steel-head, salmon and other game fish, it is elevated by means of a derrick and its contents emptied into the lake above. In season, salmon are transported in specially constructed trucks to the fish hatchery three miles west The crescent-shaped lake, which is eleven and one-half miles long and one- fourth of a mile wide, is in a basin where towering firs once stood. It offers excellent fishing, boating, and swimming. Surrounding it are 1,000 acres of evergreen forests, maintained for public recreation. Although the company does not permit the shooting of game in the recreational area, the adjoining territory abounds with duck, pheasant, bear, and deer, which may be hunted during the open season. First-growth timber still crowns the hillsides along the river, and logging camps are busy felling and sawing the huge trees. Long trailer trucks rumble along the road en route to Martin's Slough, on the Columbia River near Wood- land; the logs are dropped into the slough and floated in booms to mills in both Washington and Oregon. East, along the north shore of the lake, the road continues on a gradual ascent to Ole Peterson's Camp on the Lewis River, starting point for trips east- ward into the Lewis River area. There are no improved camp grounds here- about, and permits to build fires must be secured at the Lew1s R1ver Guard Stat1on, adjoining the Peterson camp on the east. At the Lewis River Station is a junction with a trail: L. here up the mountain side to the Lava Caves, created by the volcanic forces that once rent that section. The largest of the caves extend about one mile under the mountain to an open- ing on another face. The caves contain no stalactites or stalagmites, as the formation is lava, not limestone. Flashlights or lanterns should be used when entering them, and tourists should be accompanied by someone familiar with the caves. Sturdy, thick-soled shoes and other suitable clothing should be worn. The fertile lowlands of the Lewis River form one of the most productive farming areas in the State. In this vicinity, strawberries, raspberries, young- berries, and cranberries grow in generous quantities. The fields yield heavy crops of peas, garden vegetables, and alfalfa. Dairy farms_ and poultry ranches where many turkey are raised, also thrive on the countryside. At 53.4 m. is a junction with a concrete road. Right on this road to WOODLAND, 0.5 m. (33 alt., 980 pop.), two miles from the confluence of the Columbia and Lewis Rivers. The town, situated on a low, wide plain, is a bustling center of the surrounding farming, dairying, and poultry community, and has a vegetable cannery and a receiving, shipping, and feed station of the Washington Co-op Egg and Poultry Association. A large
bulb farm near the town cultivates and harvests daffodil, tulip, narcissus, and iris bulbs for shipment to eastern and foreign markets. A large percentage of the local population is of Finnish descent, and traces of the old-world culture and speech are discernible. The first Finnish settlers came here in 1901. US 99 spans the Lewis River, overhung with alders, willows and an occasional birch. In the seventies, LA CENTER, 58.9 m. (250 alt., 192 pop.), was an animated business center and head of naviga- tion on the East Fork of the Lewis River. In late summer, the regular schedules of the river steamers Mascot and Walker, paddle-wheeling to Portland, were often interrupted by low water. Passengers and freight were transferred to scows, which were poled up the river or towed by horses along the bank. The picturesque transportation of the pioneer age vanished with the arrival of railroads and highways; La Center lost importance and lapsed into a small village which func- tions today as a retail market for a scattered farming district. South of La Center, US 99 passes through green grazing lands along the base of a long slope extending from the foothills of the Cascade Mountains. At 62.9 m. is a junction with State 1-T, a concrete road. Right from the junction the road is lined by cultivated wheatlands and orchards. RIDGEFIELD, 5 m. (60 alt., 643 pop.), near the Columbia River, is a neat town whose industry is represented by a sawmill. At 69.3 m. is a junction with State 1-S. Left from the junction on State 1-S, a graveled road, are stands of fir; farther along are stump lands and occasional old farm houses. BATTLE GROUND, 6.2 m. (227 alt., 540 pop.), is a brisk little trading center, with a grain elevator and one of the largest cheese factories in the State. About 1888 August H. Richter built a store here and founded the town. The surrounding plains were used by the Hudson's Bay Company and, later, by the United States Army for pasture lands. Left from Battle Ground to Battle Ground Lake, 1.8 m., a popular resort, on the crest of a small mountain. The highway runs straight through an area of orchards and farms. On the outskirts of Vancouver US 99 coincides with Main Street. Left from Main Street on E. 22nd Street, which becomes State 8-A, the Fourth Plain Road, to Orchards, 6.0 m. (100 alt., 100 pop.), site of several of the earliest structures north of the Columbia River. Charles Coulder built here in 1846. Shortly afterward Richard Covington built the noted Covington House. Here he was host to many prominent persons, including Lieutenant Ulysses S. Grant of Fort Vancouver. The house has been removed to Leverich Park in Vancouver (see Vancouver). VANCOUVER 76.7 m. (40 alt., 18,788 pop.), (see Vancouver). At 5th and Main Sts. is a junction with US 830 (see Tour 3«). South on Main St., at 76.7 m., US 99 crosses the Columbia River on the OREGON WASHINGTON INTERSTATE BRIDGE, 3.1 miles north of Portland, Oregon.
Bellingham—Deming—Glacier—Shuksan—Mount Baker Lodge—Aus- tin Pass Guard Station—Kulshan Ridge; 59.6 m. State 1. Forest trails lead eastward into Cascade Mountains from end of highway. Busses from Leopold Hotel, Bellingham, to Mount Baker Lodge. Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific R.R. logging spur roughly parallels route to Glacier. Concrete-paved roadbed to Deming; oiled surface to Glacier; graveled to Austin Pass Guard Station. Snow encountered at higher altitudes during winter and early spring, but high- way kept open at all seasons. Accommodations at small hotels and inns and at tourist camps in season; good accommodations at Mount Baker Lodge throughout the year, moderate rates. State 1 winds up the valley of the Nooksack River through rolling hills dotted with brightly colored farmhouses and big red barns. Cattle graze in the lush meadows of the river flats; higher ground is given over to orchard tracts, poultry ranches, and truck gardens interspersed with small stands of second-growth evergreens. Gradually at first, and then more noticeably, the highway climbs upward, and farms become less and less frequent in the timbered foothills. Small settlements, forest camps, and an occasional mine or quarry are strung along the highway. Dominating the eastern horizon are the snow-crowned dome of Mount Baker and the rugged peaks and ridges surrounding it. Finally the highway winds into the heart of the Nooksack Recreation Area, a flow- ered alpine meadowland in summer, dotted with glaciers on the higher levels, and a vast snowfield in winter. The road ends about 60 miles east of Bellingham at Kulshan Ridge, from which trails lead into the heart of the Cascade Mountains. State 1 branches east from US 99 (see Tour 8a) at East Holly Street and Cornwall Avenue in BELLINGHAM, 0 m., and follows Sunset Drive, which becomes the Mount Baker Road. Continuing through country marked by sloping green hills and small timber stands, it passes a State We1gh1ng Stat1on at 5.6 m. Ahead are forested hills, and around lie closely neighboring farms and tracts of orchard. At 8.1 m. it is possible to see the entire valley, dotted with alder and fir, stretching away to the distant snow-covered mountains. A green- girdered bridge, 11.6 m., spans the swirling Nooksack River. About three miles beyond may be had the first clear view of Mount Baker. Scattered clumps of trees give a woodland charm to the business district of DEMING, 15.6 m. (203 alt., 250 pop.), trading and market center of the agricultural district. Implements and feed are re- ceived at the large warehouse on the railroad siding, center of the com- munity's industrial activity, and dairy and poultry products are shipped
from here. On the outskirts of Deming is the attractive two-story Union High School. E. W. Owen, the first postmaster, gave the town its name in honor of the Deming Land Company, which had large hold- ings in the area. A Roman Catholic Mission was founded by Father J. B. Boulet in 1886, and in 1889 the settlers organized a school, which was held for four years in a renovated hen house. In 1887 F. B. Hardman founded KENDALL, 24.9 m. (447 alt., 289 pop.), now a scattering of houses around a two-story white school- house. Named for Carthage Kendall, a pioneer, it was for many years a logging town, but with the cutting of the timber the settlers turned to farming on a limited scale. The quarry near by brings additional revenue to the settlement. Left from Kendall on a graveled road to the Internat1onal L1mestone Quarry, 3.3 m., on a high hill overlooking the valley. Its products are shipped to pulp and cement concerns in Bellingham. The road, popular with Canadian visitors to the recreation area around Mount Baker, continues to SUMAS, 8.5 m. (48 alt., 650 pop.) (see Tour 8a), at a junction with State 1-A (see Tour 8a). State 1 continues through pasture lands dotted with black stumps. Church Mountain, shaped like a saddle with two sharp points, appears ahead, and a little beyond it the snow-covered dome of Bald Mountain. MAPLE FALLS, 27.9 m. (665 alt., 150 pop.), is a multicolored cluster of buildings in a hollow on the North Fork of the Nooksack in a wild and rugged region. The settlement, on a branch line of the C.M.ST.P. & P.R.R., does some logging, truck farming, and quarry- ing on Boulder Creek. The town received its name in 1901, when G. A. King built a log cabin and a small waterpower sawmill on Maple Creek. The falls, a broken series of cascades, is near the railroad bridge. Left from Maple Falls on a dirt road to SILVER LAKE (cabins, boats, fishing and bathing), 1.5 m., at the base of the timbered slopes of Black Mountain. East of Maple Falls the highway ascends into a rough, broken coun- try of cedar and hemlock forests, fern-strewn draws, and heather-cov- ered rocks, following the twists of narrow canyons at the base of mountainous foothills and rising above the tortuous course of the Nooksack. In a clump of trees are the orderly rows of cabins of the Glac1er C1v1l1an Conservat1on Corps Camp (L), 30.9 m. East of the camp the winding Nooksack River appears (L), a glisten- ing thread far below in the valley. At the east end of the bridge span- ning the river is WARNICK, 33.3 m. (800 alt., 12 pop.), with a small lumber mill, around which are gathered a few houses. Yellow piles of lumber rise above the roadside. The highway enters an open valley from which is visible the cone of Mount Baker, surrounded by snow-capped peaks. GLACIER, 35.4 m. (881 alt., 87 pop.), is situated on Glacier Creek, from which it received its name. It is the eastern terminus of the local branch line of the C.M.ST.P.&P. R.R. and an outfitting center for the surrounding region. At the boundary to the Mount Baker National Forest, which extends
60 miles south of the Canadian Line and comprises more than 1,800,000 acres of wild and rugged mountains and forests, are the attractive buildings of the Glac1er Ranger Stat1on (R), 35.9 m. Maps, fire permits, and general information about the forest are available here. At 37.7 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left here 0.3 m. to Douglas F1r Forest Camp (community kitchens, tables, piped water), on the bank of the North Fork of the Nooksack River within the shadow of Bear Paw and Church mountains. Tall firs, hemlocks, and cedars soar above the camp; the air is filled with the chatter of the river and the spicy scent of the evergreens. Tables and chairs have been cut from solid logs, and water pipes are encased in bark to achieve a rustic effect. The road ends at 6 m.; here a trail follows Canyon Creek, where the fishing is splendid, to CANYON LAKE, 12 m. At 40.4 m. is a junction with another dirt road. Right here 0.2 m. to Nooksack Forest Camp (community kitchens, tables, piped <watcr), in a heavy stand of forest on the bank of the Nooksack. East of the junction the highway frequently traverses low sections, where centuries of leaf mold and seeping snow water have brought forth forest growths of almost tropical rankness. Trailing beards of moss hang from ancient fir, cedar, and maple trees. A steel and wood bridge crosses the Nooksack River at 41.3 m. Right here 0.1 m. across the bridge to Br1dge Forest Camp (stoves, tables). At 42.4 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right on this road to a dirt crossroad, 0.1 m.; R. here to Excels1or Forest Camp, 0.1 m., on the bank of the river. There are some rustic improvements but few facilities. The road to the left leads to the Nooksack Falls Power Plant (see below). At 43.1 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right here 0.3 m. to NOOKSACK FALLS, where the river plunges more than 100 feet. At the base of the falls are the gray buildings of the Puget Sound Power and Light Company power plant. The road ends at WELLS CREEK, 1.4 ib.; here a trail continues to CHAIN LAKES, 9 m. (see below). East of N1ne M1le Forest Camp, 44.5 m., the highway skirts a deep narrow gorge faced with walls of tawny red rock, then abruptly emerges in a level-floored canyon through which the river winds. A grove of delicate birch trees beside the river relieves the monotonous green of larger timber. In the winter, huge mounds of snow rise above the roadway. The road runs high above the river canyon through ridges and slopes shaded by towering western red cedars—one of the few fine stands remaining in the State—and Douglas firs and hemlocks. Some of these trees are more than 250 feet high. The green is animated by an occa- sional yew, banks of bright red elderberries, elk-horn mosses, and creep- ing berry vines. Bordering the highway at Shuksan Camp, 48.6 m., are ten attractive log cabins, built of silver spruce, beneath towering red cedars whose balsam scents the air. Operated by the Mount Baker Development Company as an adjunct to Mount Baker Lodge, the camp serves as a base for hiking trips to near-by peaks and up the North
Fork of the Nooksack. To the right of the camp is the Shuksan Inn on the site of a pioneer homestead. At 48.9 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here along the banks of SWAMP CREEK to a junction of forest trails, 4 m.; L. here 4 m., on Gold Run Trail to YELLOW ASTER BUTTE and to TOMHOI LAKE (fishing); R. (straight ahead) on a trail leading to TWIN LAKES (fishing), 2.2 m.; from here a steep trail leads, 1 m., west to WIN- CHESTER MOUNTAIN LOOKOUT. At 49.1 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left here along the banks of RUTH CREEK (fishing) to GOAT MOUN- TAIN, 3 m., with a lookout station on its summit. From the end of the road, 6 m., a trail leads right (straight ahead) to GRANITE MOUNTAIN (L), 1 m., and to beautiful HANNEGAN PASS, 4 m., at the head of Chilliwak Creek. \ The S1lver F1r Forest Camp and Guard Stat1on (camping, picnic facilities), 49.2 m., is in the shadow of firs and hemlocks. Crossing the North Fork of the Nooksack River, State 1 negotiates a series of hairpin turns and winds above the canyon to Bagley Creek Forest Camp (no facilities), 51.8 m. On its ascent the highway offers a panoramic view of snow-crowned peaks and ridges. Far below, deep rocky gorges and green fir-clad slopes stretch into the distance. H1gh- wood Forest Camp (tables, stoves, piped water), 54.9 m. (L), over- looks Razorhone Creek. Left from the camp by trail over a timbered slope to SALMON CREEK MEADOW, 0.3 m., where the forest dwindles away, exposing benches and slopes that furnish fine skiing ground in season. At Galena Forest Camp (tables, stoves, piped water), 55.6 m., sometimes buried by snow in winter, opens a full view of MOUNT SHUKSAN (9,038 alt.), thrusting a great knife-edged rock 1,000 feet above its main body. Its Indian name means "steep, rocky, precipi- tous"—and the peak successfully defied mountaineers until 1906. The HANGING GLACIER, a palisade of ice from which huge sections occasionally tumble in clouds of white, is splashed with rainbow colors by the sun. The Mount Baker Sk1 Club Hut, 55.7 m., is a high-gabled, unpainted, shake building about 200 feet from the highway. The HIGH- WOOD LAKE and PICTURE LAKE (L), each in a setting of meadow grass, reflect the distant mountain summits and the surround- ing forests of pine, balsam, fir, and hemlock. Mount Baker Lodge (restaurant service; hotel, cabin accommoda- tions; skiing equipment), 56.8 (L), is a chalet-type inn, two stories high, with a sharply gabled roof. A large granite fireplace adds cheer to the lounge. The main floor opens on a porch, from which a view may be obtained of the sheer crags and parapets of Mount Shuksan towering high above. A branch of the Otto Lang Ski School teaches the noted Hannes Schneider controlled skiing method. A few spaces from the lodge is the two-story ANNEX. A SKI LIFT (2 trips for 25c, 10 for $1), 57.3 m., operates on the
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steep slope above LOWER BAGLEY LAKE, by means of an endless cable running about 700 feet. MOUNT HERMAN (6,100 alt.), frowns above the lake. The Aust1n Pass Guard Stat1on (parking, picnic facilities), 59.3 m. (4,300 alt.), is at the entrance of the HEATHER MEAD- OWS WINTER SPORTS AREA (see Nooisack Recreation Area map), which lies between the base of Mount Baker and that of Mount Shuksan. In summer it is green with heather and native plants between clumps of mountain hemlock; in autumn it is a riot of alpine flowers. Dozens of small streams, eddying in pools or dashing down the rocks, hold Dolly Varden, cutthroat, rainbow, and blackspotted trout. Ruffed and blue grouse and white-tailed ptarmigan take cover in the tall grasses. There are also marmot, beaver, otter, wildcat, deer, black bear, and mountain goat. Heather Meadows was the "shooting site" of the motion pictures The Call of the Wild and The Barrier, because its scenery so much resembles that of Alaska. From the top of PANORAMA DOME, skiers may swing down the steep north face, or along the northeast shoulder to the Galena benches and back to the highway near Galena Cabin, or across country to Mount Baker Lodge. The experienced can follow the more hazardous route across the north face of Shuksan Arm and across the head of Razorhone Creek to White Salmon Meadows; or drop down to Austin Pass, then east to Swift Creek Meadows and through a narrow strip of timber, where a stiff climb leads over a saddle into Lake Ann Basin and on to Curtis Glacier. At 58.6 m., in Austin Pass, is a junction with a trail. Left here 0.5 m. to SWIFT CREEK at a junction with a side trail: L. again here 3 m. through rich meadows and timber land to LAKE ANN, a scenic spot with a commanding view of the Hanging Glacier and Mount Shuksan. The main trail continues through Swift Creek Canyon, down spirals and switchbacks into sub-alpine meadows knee-deep in summer with daisies, ane- mones, columbine, and red and white heather. As the forest closes in, its shade encourages the growth of ghost plants, Canadian dogwood, the fragrant twin- flower, the white, one-flowered clintonia, and a profusion of ferns and mosses. SHUKSAN CREEK, 4 m., spills into Swift Creek (L) from Lake Ann. At the Baker Hot Spr1ngs, 5 m., (R), a popular but unimproved camp, springs fill a small outdoor pool screened with a split-cedar fence. The temperature of the water averages 11o" F. From Baker Hot Springs the trail turns southwest to Morov1tz Guard Stat1on, 6.5 m. At 10.5 m. is the trail's end and a junc- tion with the Baker Lake Highway (see Tour %B). Rugged KULSHAN RIDGE (5,000 alt.), 59.6 m., which extends from the west flank of Mount Shuksan to the base of Mount Baker, forming the southern wall of Heather Meadows, is at the road's end. To the southwest (R) rises MOUNT BAKER, (10,750 alt.), the shadowed canyons in the foreground accentuating the cone's white symmetry. Komo Kulshan (Ind. white, shining mountain), the name given the mountain by the Nooksack Indians, was superseded by El Montana Del Carmelo—the choice of the Spanish explorer Francisco Eliza, who saw in the mountain a likeness to the flowing robes of the Carmelite monks. For a time the mountain was called the White Friar
and the Great White Watcher. In 1792, however, Captain George Vancouver named the peak after his lieutenant, Joseph Baker. Abutted by lesser peaks, Mount Baker seems none the less lofty for its broad base, for such is its conformation that each snowy slope upward adds grace and stature. Frequently, swirling winds toss the dry snow into flowing white veils. Such scenes have given rise to rumors of renascent volcanic action, yet no report has been authenticated in the past 20 years. The mountain has 12 glaciers and more than 44 square miles of ice fields. On the northeast slope PUMICE STONE PINNACLE lifts, darkly solitary, against the sheen of RAINBOW GLACIER. A twin pinnacle was shaken from its pedestal in 1906, shattering into the gap between Table Mountain and Mount Baker. Easier of access than Mount Shuksan, Mount Baker was first scaled in 1868 by Edmund T. Cole- man, who described his ascent in Harper's New Monthly Magazine for November, 1869. Right from Kulshan Ridge by trail to TABLE MOUNTAIN, 1 m. (5,300 alt.), whose broad surface holds a living glacier. (Hikers are cautioned not to dislodge rocks since it imperils climbers on lower levels.) At the summit is a view of many lakes and river valleys wedged in among the mountains. At 2 m. is a junction with a side trail: R. here 2 m. to the three CHAIN LAKES (trout fishing), one of which is a miniature polar sea, seldom free of floating ice even in summer. At 7 m. the main trail reaches Camp K1zer, at the timberline. Here is an overnight camp for parties undertaking the two- or three-day ascent of the mountain. Spectacular but not hazardous, the trail crosses MAZAMA GLACIER and SHOLES GLACIER, where there is a near view of RAINBOW GLACIER, as well as of the snow fields and cliffs that mountaineers traverse on the route to the summit. Inexperienced climbers should not attempt to go farther, and those with experience must be in excellent physical condition. (Guides are required for the ascent.) Tour 8B Burlington — Sedro Woolley—Lyman—Concrete—Rockport—Newha- lem—Diablo Dam—Ross Dam; 74.5 m. County road to Sedro Wool- ley; State 17-A to Rockport; Seattle Municipal R. R. from Rockport to Diablo Dam; motorboat to Ross Dam. Bituminous-surfaced roadbed to Rockport. Accommodations for excursion from Rockport to end of tour must be reserved at City Light Building, Third Ave. and Madison St., Seattle; excursions twice weekly, Sat., Sun. and Wed. and Thur. (3:30 p.m. one day to 345 p.m. the next) from May 15 to October 15. Great Northern Ry., branch line, roughly parallels route between Burlington and Rockport.
The soil of the lower Skagit River Valley, enriched by alluvial deposits from periodic floods, has been scientifically tilled; and fertile acres that are being intensively farmed may be seen from the road. State 17-A follows the winding river through bottom land, checker- boarded with commercial vegetable gardens, poultry ranches, and dairy farms. In the upper valley are vast stretches of logged-off land, where occasionally an effort is being made to carve out a farmstead. Some distance from the highway are substantial stands of timber in which logging is in progress. The forests, the immense cement plant at Con- crete, and the traffic to the Skagit Power Development are the chief sources of income in this sparsely settled region. Rolling foothills become increasingly rugged and wooded as the highway approaches the Cascade Mountains. From Rockport the narrow-gauge railroad winds upward through the rocky canyon of the Skagit River to Diablo Dam. Here the great Skagit River Power developments of Seattle City Light may be seen in a setting of natural grandeur. Across Ross Lake is Ross Dam, still under construction, the largest unit in the Skagit River develop- ment. From the junction of Fairhaven Avenue and Cherry Street, an un- numbered county road runs northeast from Burlington up the broad valley of the Skagit River. SEDRO WOOLLEY, 5.6 m. (50 alt, 2,954 pop.), is the center of a region that has accomplished successfully the transition from large- scale logging and lumbering to farming. Once covered with heavy stands of western red cedar, the land, lying in the valley of the Skagit River, required only clearing and cultivation to be made productive. The area, gardened in symmetrical lines, yields large crops of strawberries, peas, cabbage, kale, and other vegetables; some sections are given over to dairy farms and poultry ranches. Most of the residents of the valley are home folks, and outwardly the routine of their lives is changed only by the introduction of new methods of crop culture. David Batey was the first settler on the land where Sedro Woolley now stands. "Bug" was first suggested as a name for the town started in 1884 by Mortimer Cook, but the women of the settlement objected and countered with "Sedro" (Spanish: cedar), for the neighboring Cedar Mountain. Sedro was adopted and hurriedly painted on the rough boards of a store front. The cedar forests attracted logging interests, and a shingle mill was erected in 1886. Because of its strategic location the town became the head of navigation on the Skagit River, and it grew prosperous with the traffic of prospectors headed for the Mount Baker region during the gold rush. When, in 1889, the Great Northern and Northern Pacific railroads established a junction north of Sedro, P. A. Woolley, an enterprising individual, platted a town site at the crossing. Jealousy arose between the towns, but a reconciliation soon followed, and in 1890 the two cities combined their names and incorporated as one. At 6.2 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left here 0.5 m. to the Northern Hosp1tal for the Insane. Its square-face
5IO WA S H I N OTO N buildings sit amid well-kept gardens and spacious lawns. The institution is partially self-sustaining, the physically strong inmates cultivating the gardens and caring for the stock and poultry. East of the junction, State 17-A follows the bank of the Skagit River and penetrates the farming area in the valley. Neat homes and barns appear alongside the road. Once a busy railroad town, LYMAN, 13.6 m. (95 alt., 376 pop.), is supported today by a lumber mill, which operates periodically, and the seasonal activities of produce shippers. Ascending along the river valley, the highway separates sharply con- trasting country; on one side are stump lands amid stands of alder and second-growth fir, and on the other the light green of vegetable gardens, extending in precisely harrowed rows. HAMILTON, 16.8 m. (95 alt., 229 pop.), is a settlement of South Carolinians, who gain their livelihood from seasonal work in logging camps and in truck gardens. It is whispered that the hills lifting from the river valley conceal many a copper pot in which "white mule" is condensed. The town was named for William Hamilton, on whose homestead the village was started. East of BIRDSVIEW, 23 m. (192 alt., 200 pop.), the center of a truck gardening community and shipping point for the local limestone quarry, the road is bordered at points by heavy stands of maple and alder; these woods are shipped to city factories for use in the manufac- ture of furniture. CONCRETE, 29 m. (216 alt., 859 pop.), is the site of the huge Portland Cement Company Plant, the products of which are used in all major construction work in the State. Dominating the town is the skeleton of the overhead conveyor system from the Concrete L1me- stone Quarry (L), more than a mile west of the city limits; along an endless cable, suspended 100 feet above the highway, large buckets of limestone are sent to the plant, where they automatically empty their contents; the buckets are then returned to the quarry. The three stacks of the plant rise against billowing clouds of cement dust and smoke, and in the dry season the powder-gray dust covers houses, trees, and shrubbery for miles around. Concrete was founded by Magnus Miller, who settled here in 1890 and named the settlement Baker, for the river which enters the Skagit at this point. Miller's home served as hotel, store, and community center, and in 1892 became the Baker post office. In 1901 the Baker River Lumber Company erected a shingle mill, company store, and other buildings, and the place began to boom. Later, when the lime quarry and cement plant were established, the town was renamed Cement City and later Concrete. Cascade Days, held here the second week in August, is a carnival celebration to publicize the projected Cas- cade Cross-State Highway. In Concrete is a junction with a graveled road. Left on this twisting road into the BAKER RIVER RECREATION AREA, a part of MOUNT BAKER NATIONAL FOREST (see Tour Many of
the peaks and gorges of this area challenge the hiker and mountain climber with their very names: Mount Despair, Bald Eagle Creek, Pioneer Ridge, Mount Fury, Lonesome Creek, Damnation Peak, Phantom Pass, and Mount Terror. A long grade spiraling the heights overlooks the narrow reaches of LAKE SHANNON (R), 6.5 m. The road claws its way upward, offering frequent glimpses of GOAT MOUNTAIN, WASHINGTON MOUNTAIN, (4,600 alt.), and RED ROCK. It crosses BEAR CREEK, 9 m., just above the Bear Creek Powerhouse (R), and enters MOUNT BAKER NATIONAL FOREST, 11 m. Although the road is fairly wide from this point northward, occasional fills are narrow, and drivers should exercise care in passing. At 11.3 m. is a junction with a trail. Left here to BLUE LAKE (good fishing), 5 m., and to Dock Butte Lookout Stat1on, 6.5 m. At 12.3 m. is a junction with another trail. Right here on this steeply descending path to the head of LAKE SHANNON, 1 m. The main side road continues to Komo Kulshan Ranger Station, 13.1 m., where campfire permits and detailed information concerning trails are obtain- able. At 14.2 m. is a junction with a trail. Left here to MAZAMA PARK, 9 m., a meadow bordering the western face of Mount Baker. A switchback climbs to reach Park Lookout Stat1on, 10 m. Along the road the BIG SANDY CREEK, 15 m., and LITTLE SANDY CREEK, 16.5 m., burr beneath the highway bridges in swift descent to join the Baker River. Two side trails join the main road at the Boulder Creek Forest Camp, 17.4 m. Right here to BAKER RIVER, 2 m.\ L, through flower-strewn glades and alpine meadows to the cold gray surfaces of BOULDER GLACIER, 6.5 m. On the main side road is L1ttle Park Creek Forest Camp, 18.8 m. At 19.4 m., two trails form a junction with the road. Right here to Baker River, 1.5 m.\ L. to AUSTIN PASS, 10.5 m. (see Tour %A). At 20.8 m. on the main side road is a junction with a dirt road: Left on this road to Bagnell's Camp, 0.5 m., and to Baker Lake Lookout Stat1on, 1.5 m., perched on a tower of round timbers anchored on a slope at the side of Baker Lake. After passing the Baker F1sh Hatchery, 22.1 m., the road ends at Baker Lake Forest Camp (camping facilities), 22.3 m., on the south shore of BAKER LAKE (670 alt.). East of Concrete, State 17-A continues along the Skagit River. Caution should be exercised when rounding the sharp curves at both approaches to the bridge across Baker River, the outlet of Lake Shan- non (L). L. the Skag1t R1ver Ferry, 1.3 m., crosses the Skagit to a junction with State 1-A (see Tour %b), which leads to Darrington. The ferry, designed like a barge with a trolley running along an aerial cable, is equipped with rudders that point the craft into the current, the stream flow thus providing motive power. SAUK, 36 tn. (224 alt., 10 pop.), a railroad junction, is at the confluence of the gray-green Sauk and Skagit Rivers. Glacier-fed and silt-laden, the Sauk has its headwaters in the Glacier Peak Area (see Recreation Area map) far southward. SAUK MOUNTAIN (5,510 alt.), rises on the left. The highway crosses the Great Northern Rail- way tracks, 37.9 m., and ends at a parking lot between the station and the river. ROCKPORT, 38 m. (225 alt, 200 pop.), a cluster of neat build- ings and immaculate flower gardens between the highway and railroad, close beside the river, is the starting point for tours managed by the Seattle City Light Company to the power plants and dams on the Upper Skagit. Automobiles are left in the parking lot at the Adm1n1strat1ve
Bu1ld1ng under the care of a watchman, and tourists board the bright yellow coaches of the train at the C1ty L1ght Ra1lroad Depot. An air of holiday excitement and good fellowship marks the tour from Rockport to Diablo and Ross dams. Reservations for the trip are made in Seattle, and large groups often travel together. (Because of the danger of fire, smoking is permitted only at designated stops; liquor is prohibited). The route of the train roughly parallels the river. Herds of dairy stock browse in the level pastures of the broad valley. Visible from the car is State 17-A, tracing a zigzag course along the slopes. A quarter of a mile away is the town of MARBLEMOUNT (313 alt., 55 Pop-), tne oldest settlement in the region. This hamlet was founded during Civil War days and was once used as a supply base by pros- pectors who panned the gold-flecked streams of the vicinity. Later a marble quarry was briefly operated at the base of the rock slope to the west (R), and so the settlement received its name. The foothills of the Cascade Range begin to close in on the railroad line, and the tracks and the river are soon boxed in between the shat- tered cliffs and the lichen-covered canyon walls. Through a fringe of trees, the stream may be glimpsed, its foam-streaked waters clear blue or chill green as the channel deepens. Approaching THORNTON CREEK, 56 m., the valley widens slightly, and clumps of gnarled cedars appear among tangles of spiny devil's-club. In the glades along the many brooks are deer fern sprays and the handsome blades of the sword fern. East of Thornton Creek, in clearings overgrown with brush, stand a few log dwellings, moss covered and primitive, built by miners for tem- porary shelter 40 or 50 years ago. Occasionally the road is seen, winding through bottomland groves or crowding in between the railroad track and overhanging cliffs (L); at GOODELL CREEK, 60 m., it be- comes little better than a trail. Far up the creek valley (L) stands snowy MOUNT TERROR (8,360 alt.); and southward from it is MOUNT TRIUMPH (7,150 alt.). NEWHALEM, 61 m. (500 alt., 100 pop.), headquarters of Seattle City Light construction projects on the Skagit River, came into exist- ence when the city of Seattle began development of the power site. Seattle entered the business of hydroelectric power generation in 1902, and a power station was completed at Cedar Falls, 30 miles east of Seattle, in 1905. In the course of the next few years, the plant was expanded on several occasions. With the demand for current during the pre-war period of industrial expansion, the city began to seek a new power site. The late James Delmage Ross, who had become superin- tendent of the City Light Department in 1911, tried, with his asso- ciates, to acquire some satisfactory spot, only to find their efforts blocked by interests who held rights over most of the valuable sites. In 1917 Ross took steps that led to the acquisition of the Skagit site, long regarded as the best power location in the Pacific Northwest. Lying within the Mount Baker National Forest, it had been held by a private company on a temporary permit from the Federal Government. When the permit expired, Ross filed personally on the Skagit site in
the name of the city. (Previously he had requested a permit for the city in a communication to the Federal offices in Portland.) He based his claim on the fact that the company had bought up other sites, while holding the Skagit with no intention of developing it. Later, Ross went to Washington, D.C., to press the claim with David F. Houston, Sec- retary of Agriculture, and on January 18, 1918, the city was given permission to call for bids on a plant to be built on the Skagit River. After several attempts by the company to re-acquire the Skagit rights had failed, the city was given a permit for the site by the Government, the decision being announced in a telegram received in Seattle on Christmas Day, 1918. The Skagit site has undergone rapid development, and Seattle City Light is today regarded as one of the country's outstanding municipal power projects, a pioneer in municipally owned and operated hydro- electric developments. When President Roosevelt took office in 1932, he summoned Ross to the White House to discuss proposed Federal power development. Later, Ross was appointed to a position on the Securities and Exchange Commission. He resigned this office to become administrator of Bonneville Project, a position which he held, as well as the City Light superintendency, at the time of his death in 1939. At Newhalem, shops, barracks, homes, and other buildings stand beyond a meadow between railroad and river. Music from a loud- speaker, concealed on the slopes of MOUNT ROSS (7,300 alt.), greets the train on its arrival at five in the afternoon. Visitors are al- lowed one-half hour to locate their quarters (accommodations for 600) and to prepare for dinner. After an ample meal served in the huge community dining hall, the visitors are led by guides over the narrow suspension bridge and along the pleasant woodland trail beside the Skagit to the Newhalem Power House on NEWHALEM CREEK. Later, a brief moving picture of the several projects is shown at the camp, after which visitors proceed to the Gorge Power Plant, where they are shown the giant turbines. This unit is linked to the Newhalem Power House by means of a transformer bank. The Gorge Plant has an installed capacity of 102,413 horsepower and will ultimately produce 320,000 horsepower. Completed in 1924 at a cost of more than $14,000,000, it had yielded revenues amounting to more than $41,- 000,000 by the end of 1937. This is the first, and lowest, unit of the $86,000,000 "staircase" hydroelectric power development on the river. Behind and above the power house are tropical gardens, planted under the personal direction of Mr. Ross. With the co-operation of friends of the project, he brought plants, animals, and birds from all parts of the world. In the rock gardens are ferns and mosses, flowers, shrubs and trees, many of which are not indigenous, such as tea, lemon, and grapefruit. An illuminated path leads upward 400 feet past lily ponds, glowing with submarine light, to LADDER CREEK FALLS, trans- fused at night with lights in ever-shifting colors. Muffled by the rushing sound of the water, inspirational music flows from loudspeakers con- cealed in the surrounding gardens.
Following an early breakfast, visitors, who are advised to dress warmly, climb into open-air cars, which are pulled by electric locomo- tive up the gorge. On either side, the mountain peaks loom both nearer and higher than those seen the previous day. At a considerable height above the river, which flows over white gravel beds, the railroad bed is chiseled out of sheer cliffs, or skirts slopes stubbled with old cedar trees and massive granite boulders. Farther along the route, a mountain meadow contrasts strangely with the desolate grandeur of the uppermost rock faces and the numerous glaciers and snow fields on the nameless peak to the left. The low dam and intake, through which the river is diverted into a two-mile tunnel leading to the Gorge Plant, appear (L). DAVIS PEAK (7,150 alt.) may be seen snow-crested in the distance, above the lesser hills overhanging the river. Along the opposite side of the canyon occasional remnants of old bridges cling precariously to the cliffs. These frail scaffolds of whipsawn lumber are the last vestiges of an old pack trail to northern mines. Eventually the Gorge Dam will be constructed here, after Ross Dam provides complete river storage; it will be the last step of Skagit development, with a capacity of 320,000 horsepower. Crossing Stetattle Creek, just above its confluence with the Skagit River, the train comes to REFLECTOR BAR, 68.5 m., where a sweeping horseshoe bend of the stream rounds the gravel bar, on which construction camp buildings are neatly grouped. Here was the "spirit boundary" to the upper reaches of the Skagit, according to the Indians, who ominously forecast a dire fate for early hunters and miners ven- turing into the "country of the ghosts." As if to bear out their predic- tion, a great forest fire flared from the north, denuded the hills, and destroyed many cabin settlements. Subsequently, disastrous freshets swept down the swollen river. These floods have occurred on an average of once in every five years, and will be controllable only when Seattle's proposed hydroelectric development and water storage system is com- plete. D1ablo Power House, a substantial concrete building inset in the sloping cliff, is topped by great intake tubes, thrusting down from the hill, and fronted by a giant array of silvery transformers in the midst of a network of copper cables. With a present installed capacity of 190,000 horsepower, this plant, the second step in the Skagit develop- ment, will produce ultimately 320,000 horsepower. The powerhouse was begun in 1931, and the turbines started revolving in 1936. Transported on an inclined railroad up the 68 per cent gradient of the hillside, visitors may view the town and river far below, which are backed by glacier-covered PYRAMID PEAK (7,800 alt.) They may then walk a short distance to see the widespread panorama of D1ablo Dam and the lake, fringed by timbered slopes pushing up toward snow- dappled crags. The dam, screened at each end by torrents of white water rushing from spillways, is obscured by a cloud of spray. Built between 1927-30, the dam, of the constant-angle-arch type, is 389 feet
high; and the roadway across its crest is nearly a quarter of a mile long —1,180 feet from end to end. Imported trees, creepers, ivies, and shrubs set off to advantage the natural beauty of the area. Plans are in progress to add Japanese flowering cherries, pink dogwood, lilacs, clematis, wis- taria, rhododendrons, and azaleas to the landscaping on the cliffs. In company with the smaller native squirrel, the orange and gray variable squirrel and the large jet black squirrel of Mexico rollic on the limbs of the fir trees fringing the lake. These semitropical animals have adapted themselves to the thin, icy mountain air with no apparent discomfort. Black-tailed deer and black and brown bears are often seen, but hunting is forbidden in this area, as it lies within the Whatcom County Game Preserve. Boarding the motor boat and leaving the lake shore, visitors are again greeted by music from loudspeakers concealed on the hillside. In the distance and adjacent to beautiful PYRAMID PEAK, is the equally lofty COLONIAL PEAK, and standing aloof to the left is SOUR- DOUGH MOUNTAIN (5,977 alt.). Between them spreads COL- ONIAL GLACIER. Two low islands, sparsely wooded, lie at the entrance to the deeply flooded channel of the Skagit River. Stands of stunted alpine fir and cedar, casting purple shadows on the gray and silver rocks, gradually supplant the tall timber that rises from the margin of the water. Gliding up the tortuous ravine between the quiet hills, the boat enters little basins, seemingly surrounded by sheer slabs of stone. A series of cascades (R) tumbling down from far heights may be seen through the open woods. Reaching the narrowed extremity of the navigable lake, the boat turns slowly, giving an excellent view of ROSS DAM (formerly called Ruby Dam), 74.5 m. The ultimate elevation—1,728 feet—is marked by a white line on the granite cliff above the clearing. The first step in the construction, to an elevation of 1,380 feet, has been completed. Ross Dam will form the largest unit of the Skagit hydroelectric develop- ment. Besides generating 480,000 horsepower itself, it will permit capacity operation of the lower plants, thus making possible a total pro- duction for the project of 1,120,000 horsepower, at an invested cost of $76 per horsepower, the lowest yet projected. The dam will be 635 feet high and nearly twice as long, second in size to Boulder Dam; and it will create a lake 3 miles wide and 34 miles long, extending through the primitive area of Mount Baker National Forest northward across the Canadian Boundary.
Mount Vernon—Deception Pass State Park—Oak Harbor—Coupe- ville—Columbia Beach; 66.1 m. State 1 and 1-D. Great Northern Railway parallels State 1 to Anacortes. Public campgrounds at Deception Pass State Park; resorts and campsites at beaches; hotel accommodations in small towns. Concrete-paved road to Deception Pass; oiled gravel-surfaced road to Colum- bia Beach. From the fertile lowlands of the rich farming country on the Skagit River Delta, this route leads to the shores of Fidalgo and Whidbey Islands, indented by many inlets. Fantastic carvings of the rocky banks, through the long assault of sea and weather, give these coves an air of austere mystery, and rumor in times past has dubbed them smugglers' retreats. Back from the shores, the gently rolling slopes of Whidbey Island are marked by patches of woodland, fields of waving grain, and fruitful orchards. A favorable combination of soil and climate has given Whidbey, second largest island in the United States, the reputa- tion of being the garden spot among the islands of Puget Sound. The rich soil, known to agronomists as Ebey Sandy Loam, is said to be unique among soils. In 1894 a wheat yield of 117.5 bushels per acre established a world's record that still stands. Along the route tall silos and barns, hangar-like in their proportions, attest to the productivity of Whidbey's agriculture. Bulb raising, seed growing, and berry culture are important branches of farming; but poultry raising and dairying supply more than half of the island's economic structure. West (R) of the junction with US 99, at 2nd St. and Gates Ave., in MOUNT VERNON, 0 m. (see Tour 8a), State 1 proceeds to the city limits and crosses the Skagit Flats, an area which produces a large share of the country's supply of cabbage seed. Substantial farm- houses and neat barns and poultry houses suggest agricultural prosperity. At 6.9 m. is a junction with a bituminous road. Left here across LA CONNER FLATS, where sloughs and marshes attract great numbers of waterfowl and bring many hunters during the shooting season. At 3.9 m. is a P1oneer Monument (L), a granite shaft with pictorial reliefs of early scenes around its base. Among the business blocks along the main street of LA CONNER, 4.4 m. (10 alt., 624. pop.), the concrete Co-op F1shermen's Bu1ld1ng is conspicuous. Built on the site of the first trading post (1867) on Swinomish Slough, the town was first called Swinomish, but was later renamed by John S. Conner, the first permanent settler, for his wife, Louisa A. Conner. The oldest weekly newspaper in the State, the Puget Sound Mail, founded in 1873, is still published in La Conner. A Lookout Po1nt Observat1on Tower, on a hill above the business section, affords a view of the broad expanse of La Conner Flats, which stretch away to the east.
Crossing the slough, a road leads to the SWINOMISH INDIAN RESERVA- TION, 0.2 m. A scattering of small boats lie at the water's edge, with an occa- sional dugout canoe of traditional native design. Two rows of small white houses range along gradually rising ground that ascends from the shore to the brow of a hill; where a white-spired church contrasts with a large totem pole that bears aloft the carved symbols of the Thunder Bird, the Bear, Fish, and other figures of Indian mythology. Right from Swinomish, 2 m., on a graveled road to the tribal Long House. Here, late in January, a three-day festival celebrates Treaty Day of January 22, 1855, when the chiefs of the Snohomish, Snoqualmie, Duwamish, and allied tribes, met with Governor Isaac I. Stevens and ceded to the white men all the land from Point Fully to the Canadian Border. Accompanied by the mesmeric beating of tom-toms and wailing chants, solo dancers work themselves into a frenzy, darting about in a flying crouch, eagle fashion with arms outspread, feet padding swiftly over the bare earth. At intervals they come to rigid stops —tense dramatic pauses heightened by complete silence—from which they again leap forward, feathers flying, bone and wood ornaments jangling. During the dances great log fires are kept burning on the dirt floor of the Long House. In the Squad Dance the women shuffle and hop from side to side in slow monoto- nous rhythm, pausing occasionally to emphasize some word in a tuneless chant, reminiscent of the efforts of the Shakers and Holy Rollers to "get the power." West of the junction, State 1 crosses TELEGRAPH SLOUGH, 7.3 m., and SWINOMISH SLOUGH, 9.1 m., linking the mainland with FIDALGO ISLAND, where the route continues. The island, separated from the mainland only by shallow sloughs, was named for Salvador Fidalgo, an explorer in one of the Spanish expeditions of 1790-1. A town called Fidalgo flourished briefly in this vicinity until the collapse of a railroad boom in 1892. At 12.4 m. is a junction with State 1-D. Right (straight ahead) State 1 continues to ANACORTES (see Island Tour 3). The main route swings south on State 1-D, bordered at intervals by heavy growths of fir and hemlock. LAKE CAMPBELL (fishing, swimming, camping), 14.3 m. (R), largest of several small lakes on the island, lies at the base of a rounded knoll in a farming area. In the center of the lake is a small wooded island. At 15.5 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here 1 m. to DEWEY, ghost of a former town at the east end of Decep- tion Pass. First called Deception, then Fidalgo City, two adjacent townsites were platted in 1889, Gibraltar and Fidalgo. To secure land grants offered as a bonus for a railroad construction, trackage of the Anacortes and Fidalgo City Electric Railway was completed in 1801. Two train trips were made— enough to ensure title to the grant9—and the tracks torn up. Local real estate values promptly faded. After the Spanish-American War the settlements united under the present name. South of the junction the highway passes through luxuriant growths! of fir, cedar, and alder, affording glimpses of PASS LAKE (R). Farther south it follows the shoreline of the lake. At 17.2 m. the road enters DECEPTION PASS STATE PARK (swimming, camping and picnicking). The park is notable for the variety of its land and seascapes; along its borders are wave-tossed, and placid, bays. Rugged,
5 l8 WAS H I N G T O N fjord-like shores of rock shelve up to deep forests; across Rosario Strait, to the northwest, lie the tumbled forms of the San Juan Islands; to the southwest, across Juan de Fuca Strait, where ocean sunsets flame in the summer sky, are the rugged contours of the Olympic Range. Eastward are the peaks of the Cascades. The park has six recreational areas with five swimming pools, three of which are salt water. At 17.6 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right here 0.5 m. through shady groves to the beach at RESERVATION BAY (large parking area, tables, stone shelter house, and bath houses). The Decept1on Pass Br1dge, 18.2 m. (182 alt.), was completed >n 1935, after many years of agitation by the residents of Whidbey Island for such a link with the mainland. The bridge has a total length of 1,350 feet, its 22-foot roadway bordered by railed pedestrian walks. Constructed by the Public Works Administration, the span links Fidalgo and Whidbey islands, and connects Island and Skagit Counties, thus increasing the islanders' market range. Pass Island, a natural support for the bridge at its center, is a cone-shaped rock pier dividing the channel into Canoe Pass and the wider Deception Pass. Beneath the bridge the narrow, high-walled gorge of DECEPTION PASS spills 2,500,000,000 gallons of water hourly at ebb tide into Rosario Strait; surface shadows and reflections offer a changing study in blues and greens as the foam-streaked tide boils through the rocky aperture. The lull that accompanies slack tide is soon broken by the returning flood, stirring to flight the wayfaring gulls. A sign at the bridge warns that the hunting of rabbits, a profitable part-time occupa- tion on the island, is unlawful after 10 o'clock at night. The ruling was made to prevent hunters in galloping jalopies from racing through farm plots in pursuit of rabbits, easy prey under glaring headlights. The narrow channel was named Boca de Flon by Quimper for a Mexican governor, and so recorded on Eliza's chart of 1791; it was renamed Deception Pass in 1792, when Captain George Vancouver's expedition learned it was not a closed harbor. Near the center of the bridge, on Pass Island, a memorial commemorates the naming of the pass by Vancouver, and notes that the channel has a tidal velocity of from 5 to 8 knots an hour, and a depth which varies from 4 to 37 fathoms. The south end of the bridge, 18.6 m., is the entrance to that section of Deception Pass State Park which lies on Whidbey Island. Here is a panoramic view of Juan de Fuca Strait. At 19.1 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right here to a junction, 0.1 m., with a graveled crossroads. Left from the junction 0.4 m. to forest-fringed CRANBERRY LAKE (camping facilities, swimming; overnight parking, $oc a car). Right from the junction 0.7 m. is North Beach, on Deception Pass. From the parking area a rustic trail winds down to the beach. South of the junction State 1-D leaves the southern entrance of Deception Pass Park, 19.2 m., marked by a large log house occupied by a resident park officer. At 19.7 m. is a junction with a dirt road.
Left on a down-grade, bordered by stands of second-growth alder, to CORNET BAY (boating) 1 m., a sheltered cove The main highway continues southward along the center of the island, named for Master Joseph Whidbey who, on June 2, 1792, discovered the pass that proved it an island. Four days before finding the passage, Whidbey, a member of Vancouver's expedition, landed here to make observations. He was met by some 200 Indians who apparently had never seen a white man before; to satisfy them that he was white all over, and not merely smeared with ashes, he opened his waistcoat and displayed his skin. Since Vancouver charted "Whidbey's Island," usage has often dropped the "e" from the name, though the original spelling is officially retained. According to history, the Indians saw no more white visitors for nearly 50 years; but from other tribes they heard of the "black gowns" who were bringing a new religion into the region, and when Father Blanchet reached the Cowlitz River in 1839, Chief Tslalakum of the island tribe made the arduous trip up-sound to ask for teaching. Unable to return with him, the priest devised a textbook in the form of a Catholic "ladder," or vertical series of scenes representing church and Biblical history from the Creation, which the chief took back to his tribe. When Father Blanchet landed on Whidbey the following year, he received two surprises: first, the Indians had just fought off the Clallam and attributed their victory to their knowing God; second, they had mastered the hymns and rituals the priest had taught their chief. As a climax they presented him with a huge wooden cross. When Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, leading the United States Exploring Expedi- tion, sailed the brig Porpoise into Penn's Cove in 1841, he found the Indians building a log church beside this large cross. Along the main road are occasional views of the broad Juan de Fuca Strait to the west. Bordering Whidbey on the east is Saratoga Passage, separating it from Camano Island, which parallels it for part of its length. Gently rolling hills, checkered by farms and wooded pastures, sweep back from the highway on either hand. Dairy herds graze along the way, and here and there a haystack, chewed cow-high around the periphery, leans tipsily. OAK HARBOR, 26.4 m. (65 alt., 376 pop.), largest of the island's three small towns, is a brisk trading center. Barrington Avenue, the main business street, borders the bay shore, and reveals in the orderly appearance of its substantial buildings the Holland Dutch influence that predominates in the community. Many of the names on stores, and on mail boxes along rural routes, such as Fakkema, Koetje, and Van Wieringer, reflect the land of dikes. The Dutch language is commonly used by the older generation and is often heard along the street. Oak Harbor got its name from the oak trees on the surrounding prairie. The first settler, Zakarias Toftezen, a Norwegian, came here in 1849. Others soon followed, and John M. Izett, who arrived in 1854 from Scotland, built a shipyard and gave the island its first in- dustry. The schooner Growler, named for its complaining builders, was
launched here in 1859 and became one of the best-known boats on Puget Sound in pioneer days. Hollanders began to arrive towards the close of the century, and the extremely fertile countryside was developed with characteristic thoroughness by the Dutch farmers who were attracted here. Today the outstanding annual event is the Holland Days Festival; Dutch costumes are worn, old-country games are played; there are prize contests and a livestock show. South of Oak Harbor the route parallels the curving shore of the bay, through acres of pea fields and cultivated farm lands. SAN DE FUCA, 32.1 m. (30 alt., 150 pop.), is a little village on a hill overlooking Penn Cove, a pea cannery, and a small sawmill. The farm of R. B. Holbrook, who settled here early in the 185o's, was purchased for a townsite, and San De Fuca (a contraction of San Juan and Juan de Fuca) was boomed in the nineties as the east end of a proposed canal to bisect the island. At 32.8 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right here 0.6 m. to Darst Farm, a filbert orchard of several thousand young trees. In the favorable climatic belt of Whidbey Island, mature trees reach a height of some 30 feet and annually yield about 100 pounds of nuts each. Bordered by red-trunked madronas, State 1-D reaches the head of Penn's Cove and bears southeasterly. Cranes, standing motionless in the shallows of the sand flats or flapping overhead in ungainly flight, are a common sight. The Old Courthouse, 33.1 m. (R), built in 1855 as a store, is a well-preserved though weather-beaten frame structure. The many-win- dowed front facing the road has two entrances, and the gabled roof bears two brick chimneys. A stately maple at one corner reputedly was planted by Captain Henry Roeder (see Bellingham). S1te of a P1oneer Trad1ng Post and Flour M1ll at Kennedy's Lagoon (R), 33.2 m., is marked only by splintered piling, where once a millwheel ground the settlers' grain. State 1-D rounds the head of Penn's Cove and swings east. COUPEVILLE, 36.2 m. (86 alt., 325 pop.), spreads along the south shore of the cove. Once called the Port of Sea Captains for the number of retired mariners who settled here, the town was officially named for the first of them, Captain Thomas Coupe, who took a dona- tion claim here in 1852. Along the water front a small business section, composed mainly of independent, one-story, frame structures, parallels the tidal shore. A scattering of houses follows the rising terrain up a moderate slope from the shore to the level prairie back of the town. The two-story frame courthouse reflects the period in which it was built (1891). C1ty Park (camp ground), on the edge of town in a setting of tall firs, overlooks Penn Cove. A large section of a Douglas fir stands beside the entrance, with a plaque giving its age as 660 years. At Alexander and Coveland streets is the Alexander Blockhouse in a three-sided stockade. Recently restored by the American Legion, it was brought here from the John Alexander claim, where it was built in
1855. Inside are a few relics of early days; outside is an open shelter in which are exhibited Indian craft that have raced in the annual In- ternational Water Festival held each August. Hundreds of visitors come to the festival to see the bronzed crews stroke their narrow boats along the course. In these races Washington tribes, including Lummi, Queets, Suquamish, Puyallup, and even Yakimas from east of the moun- tains, compete with the Haidas, their ancient enemies from British Columbia. It is said that, when the races were initiated, the Indians had to be taught by tribal craftsmen how to fashion the slim Chinook canoe, which old-time sailors declare to be the best native seagoing craft in the world. The method of manufacture was the same from southeastern Alaska to the Columbia River. Expert canoe makers chose a cedar tree as nearly flawless as possible, felled it with obsidian axes called pe-yah- cuds, and dragged it to a convenient place. The head canoe maker or tyee, scored the bark; his helpers trimmed the branches and peeled the trunks. Slowly, carefully, the hull was shaped; red-hot rocks were em- ployed to burn out the interior. The hull roughly formed, the tyee went over it inch by inch, chipping and smoothing until the finished craft would trim properly in the water. Many hulls were preserved against warping and checking by charring every surface, but the favored practice was to apply several coats of dogfish-liver oil, hand-rubbing the surface after each application until a glossy polish was secured. However malodorous, the process insured long preservation, for canoes more than 100 years old are still staunch and seaworthy. Extreme nicety was needed in placing the thwarts, or seats: these were inserted before the hull had become thoroughly sea- soned, producing a slight flare along the rail. Too little spread reduced seaworthiness, but too much might split the wood. Both canoes and paddles were ornamented with various pigments. Iron stain was brown or yellow, copper stain was green, pounded ragweed pods yielded a bright red; soot mixed in oil gave black, and talc from lime-rock de- posits made an acceptable white. Even the 50- to 60-foot war canoe was carved from a single cedar. The earliest canoes were not shapely, but after acquaintance with Bed- ford whalers, the canoe makers quickly imitated the pudgy prows of the Gloucester vessels. Practically all canoes built within the last 75 years show the influence of the clipper with its curving bow and low bowsprit. Racing canoes, built for a steersman and 10 paddlers, were of narrower beam than war canoes and of somewhat lower freeboard. The Thomas J. Dow House on Front St., past the end of the business section (R), is an old whitewashed building known locally as the Waterworth House. Built in 1855, it has a small porch, bevel siding, and wood walls. The Capta1n Thomas Coupe House, also on Front St., and its large walnut tree planted by the Captain's wife, date from 1853. The well-preserved two-story house of California redwood, painted gray, shows Dutch Colonial as well as New England farmhouse influence. The front is faced with siding, the ends with perpendicular boards and battens; above the small porch a flat-roofed dormer runs
back to the roof peak, and rearward the mossy roof sweeps to a break and extends over the lean-to. The present (1941) occupant is Edward Bruce, a grandson of John Gould, who came here in 1849. The F1rst Method1st Church, erected in 1933, displays a bronze plaque on a foundation stone from the original church built in 1860. The congrega- tion was organized in 1853. Straight ahead, Front Street becomes a graveled road. Past the city limits, this road follows the shoreline of PENN COVE, believed to have been touched by Vancouver and named by him for a grandson of William Penn. In deserted Indian villages on both points of the little bay, Vancouver found small sepulchres, standing upright like sentry boxes, containing skeletal remains of both children and adults. At 2.9 m. is a junction with a dirt road: Left here 0.3 m. to the JOHN KINETH HOUSE, built in 1855 by itinerant carpenters working for Kineth, pioneer road builder and civil engineer. The rambling two-story building on a slight knoll sloping toward the beach has been remodeled and is now a summer home. Large windows give a panoramic view of Saratoga Passage. So sturdily built was the original structure that very little of the lumber brought around the Horn to build it had to be removed. Walls were of hand-dressed fir and doors of yellow pine. The lime used for the fireplace came from burnt clam- shells taken from the beach. WATSAK POINT, 0.7 m., so named by the Wilkes Expedition, is also known as Snakelum Point. The latter name derives from that of Long Charlie or Snakelum, an Indian who once lived there. Summer homes now occupy parts of the area. Adjacent to the Old Potlatch Ground (R) is a high bluff scarred by an Ind1an Trench, 60 feet wide and 400 feet long, which was once covered by a potlatch house. South of Coupeville on State 1-D is PRAIRIE CENTER, 37.5 m., a wayside trading point dominated by two large white two-story school buildings. Whidbey Island's first car, built in 1902 in Chicago, is ex- hibited in an automobile agency here; a side-winder, with hard rubber tires, no reverse, and two speeds ahead, it was owned by Judge Lester Still, who lives on the island. At Prairie Center is a junction with a graveled road. Right 0.4 m. on this road to a junction with another graveled road. Left here 0.8 m. to a junction with a dirt road. Right on this road to Sunnys1de Cemetery, 1.3 m., located on a sloping hill. Here many early settlers are in- terred, their family plots guarded by iron fences or low walls of marble. Within the boundary of the cemetery is the Dav1d Blockhouse, built in 1855, with rifle loopholes staring darkly from the walls of the second story. Its interior is distinguished by a stone fireplace, with a chimney of sticks and dried mud. The house was restored in 1930 by the Ladies of the Round Table. The road continues (L) from the cemetery to the farm of Frank J. Pratt, Jr., where the Jacob Ebey Monument (visitors permitted by special permission of owner), 1.5 m., commemorates the memory of the famous pioneer. Here also the Jacob Ebey Blockuouse, restored by Mr. Pratt, was built in 1855 by the father of Colonel Isaac Ebey (see Olympia). The main side road, north of the Prairie Center Junction, leads to Ebey's Land1ng, 2 m., on the west shore of the island, where Colonel Isaac N. Ebey settled in 1850 and filed a claim to a section of Ebey's Prairie. Seeking revenge for their defeat and humiliation at Port Gamble (see Tour 9/f), the Haida Indians from British Columbia raided the island in 1857. Colonel Ebey was called to his door late one night. Others in the house heard shots and groans; panic-stricken, they fled into the forest. The Indians decapitated their victim and escaped with the ghastly prize. The attackers were never apprehended, but
years later the head was surrendered to Captain Charles Dodd, of the Hudson's Bay Company, for burial. A marble monument on the bluff above the beach marks the scene of the killing. Southeast of Prairie Center, 37.9 m., is a junction with a concrete road. Right on the concrete road through a wooded area, broken by farm clearings. At 2.3 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right (straight ahead) on this road to the Crockett Blockhouse, 0.3 m., one of two built on the site in 1855; it was restored by the Work Projects Administration in 1938. The other Crockett blockhouse was sold to Ezra Meeker, for the entrance to his restaurant at the Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition at Seattle in 1909, and was later moved to Point Defiance Park, Tacoma. At 0.9 m. on this graveled road, the yellow- barracks and residences of Fort Casey line a ridge overlooking CROCKETT LAKE, a long narrow body of water separated from Admiralty Bay by a sand- spit. Lieutenant Colonel Silas Casey here took command of the Puget Sound district in 1856; later he led a detachment to reinforce Captain George E. Pickett at the time of the San Juan boundary dispute. Left from the junction a graveled road winds over flat country bordering CROCKETT LAKE (R) to KEYSTONE, 2 m., a few houses grouped around a ferry landing. A ferry here connects with Port Townsend (see Tour 9a) across Admiralty Inlet. South of the junction, State 1-D keeps to the middle of the island, a level area devoted to dairying and wheat farming. At 43.1 m. is a junction with a graveled road leading to Keystone and Fort Casey. A view of Admiralty Inlet appears at 44 m., dark islands dotting the water in the distance. At 47.9 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left here 0.2 m. past Green Bank Farm, a large dairying establishment. The road continues to Jim Pratt's Place, 0.4 m., a summer resort with 20 cabins, located on Holmes Harbor. It has excellent clam beds, and fishing in near-by waters is good. State 1-D climbs a slight grade to GREENBANK, 48.3 m. (50 alt., 100 pop.). The single store, marking the entrance to Holmes Harbor, was named by a settler for his boyhood home of Green Bank, Delaware. To the east, across Saratoga Passage, is CAMANO IS- LAND, midway between Whidbey Island and the mainland (see Tour 8b). Tiny Hackney Island also is in sight (L). At 48.8 m. is a junction with a trail. Left here 0.5 m. to an Amer1can Youth Hostel, one of two on the island. South of Greenbank the highway follows the central ridge of the island overlooking HOLMES HARBOR (L), named for Silas Holmes, assistant surgeon of the Wilkes Expedition. Noted for its salmon, the harbor is a favorite trolling ground for saltwater fishermen. (Numerous resorts and cabin camps offer good accommodations). At 54.7 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right here 3 m. to BUSH POINT, where a light warns ships in Admiralty Inlet off the point. Pirates' Lair, a huge rustic inn, is constructed of driftwood and planking from wrecked ships, with ship fittings decorating the interior. A great stone fireplace blazes with beach logs that, salt-soaked, burn with colored flames. A ship's bell sounds the call to meals.
South of the junction the highway winds through a heavy stand of fir trees. At 55 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here 0.2 m. to FREELAND (sea level, 300 pop.), near popular salmon- fishing grounds. The settlement was first named Equality by its Socialist founders, who started a co-operative sawmill but dispersed in 1904, after liti- gation had been started by creditors. Orchards and dairy farms surround the town, which consists of a modern store, a half-dozen residences, and a small sawmill. (Resorts, cabins, camp sites, boats and motors are available along the shore). Fir prop timbers, cut in the hills, are hauled to Freeland, where they are loaded on the Spanish ship Providencia and taken to Mexico for the copper mines there. The Providencia returns to Puget Sound about once every six weeks, transporting the ore from Mexican mines to the smelter at Tacoma and stopping at Freeland on its way home to pick up the props. Indians of the dis- trict also use Freeland as a trading center. BAYVIEW, 59.1 m., is a small trading center near a number of small lakes attractive to freshwater fishermen. Alongside the store is the Whidbey Community Hall. This is an outfitting point for a number of Whidbey Island resorts, most of which are accessible from the town. At 62 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left on this road, is LANGLEY, 3 m. (50 alt., 338 pop.), facing Saratoga Passage. Built on an inviting stretch of sandy beach, it is a trading point for a large part of south Whidbey Island. A high school, library, and movie theater contribute to the cultural needs of the neighborhood, while mercantile establish- ments in great variety supply ordinary consumer needs. Many beautiful summer homes and resort centers are situated near by. Dairying, poultry, ranching, berry growing, and filbert raising are activities of the countryside. Regular ferry service in the summer makes the beaches and resorts easily accessible from the mainland. Many homes in the vicinity are open to summer boarders. The big annual event in Langley is the Island County Fair, said to be the oldest continuously celebrated event of its kind in the State. North (L) from Langley on a graveled road is SARATOGA, 4 m. (50 alt., 71 pop.), on the shore of Saratoga Passage, named by the Wilkes Expedition of 1841 in honor of the U.S.S. Saratoga, which was commanded by Captain Thomas McDonough, of Lake Champlain fame. Saratoga is popular in hunting season; deer, quail, and pheasants are plentiful in the area. At 63.5 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right here 5 m. to MAXWELTON (sea level, 16 pop.), a sleepy village near the southern extremity of the island, named by the McKee brothers in memory of the "bonnie braes of Scotland." GLENDALE (sea level, 50 pop.), 8 m., nestles on the beach in a narrow declivity between sheer bluffs. On the plain above it, strawberries are raised commercially, maturing several weeks earlier than berries grown on the mainland. CLINTON, 65.8 m. (50 alt., 36 pop.), formerly known as Phinney, looks across Possession Sound toward the city of Everett on the main- land. A number of summer houses line Clinton Beach east of the trading center. From here, hat-shaped Gedney Island is visible. Facing COLUMBIA BEACH, 66.1 m. (sea level, 40 pop.), are a number of substantial beach homes. An attractive yellow two-story structure houses a ferry waiting room, and summer cottages cluster about the wharf. Captain Boyd's Columbia Beach Resort is marked by a red, barn-like building; adjoining it is a group of white cottages with
red roofs. The ferry landing extends over the water from the long straight beach. (Forty-minute ferry service is maintained during the summer to MUKILTEO, 5 miles S. of Everett. See Tour 8b). Tour 8D Tacoma—Parkland—La Grande—Elbe—Ashford—Nisqually Entrance, Mount Rainier National Park; 54.9 m. State 5. Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul & Pacific R.R. parallels route between Tacoma and Ashford. Concrete-paved roadbed, except for bituminous-surfaced stretch between La Grande and Alder. The main route to Mount Rainier National Park, the State's greatest mountain recreational area, State 5 leads from prairie lowlands upward through rugged, thickly wooded foothills to the southwest entrance of the park. It offers, in rapid succession, views of intense urban activity, of farming on fertile valleys and stump lands, and of logging and lum- bering in the shadow of the imposing mountain. Particularly on week- ends, automobiles laden with skis, wool clothing, and other winter-sports equipment whiz along the highway, transporting parties from Tacoma, Seattle, and other Puget Sound cities to the alpine playland. South (R) of the junction with US 99, at 26th St. and Pacific Ave. in TACOMA, 0 m., State 5—usually called the Mountain Highway— follows Pacific Avenue. Beyond the city limits it passes through a thickly settled area of small berry farms and truck gardens. At 5 m. is a junction with a concrete road. Left on this road is MIDLAND, 1.4 m. (460 alt., 200 pop.), on the Tacoma Eastern branch of the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul & Pacific Railroad. A claim was filed here in 1855 by Ezra Meeker, who later planted what is believed to have been the first hopyard in the vicinity. The picked hops were transported over an old military trail between Puyallup and Steilacoom. Meeker sold his claim to Judge W. H. Snell, who platted a town site and named it Midland. Today, the modest homes of the town stand on open prairie beside a small mill. Beyond Midland the side road, curving sharply, passes stump fields, dairy farms, and poultry ranches. Passing SUMMIT, at 4.6 m. (400 alt., 37 pop.), it descends into the rich fruitlands of the Puyallup Valley. At 5.7 m. on State 5 is a junction with State 5-G. Left here 10.1 m. to PUYALLUP (see Tour 2c), at a junction with US 410 (see Tour if).
State 5 descends into park-like terrain as it approaches PARKLAND, 6.2 m. (301 alt., 750 pop.), a trading center for farmers and for stu- dents from Pacific Lutheran Academy. Many families here are of Scandinavian descent. At Parkland is a junction with an oiled road. Right on this road to Pacific Lutheran College and Academy, 0.2 m., main- tained by the Lutheran churches of the Pacific Northwest. On the campus are the five-story building, completed in 1894, which houses classrooms and administra- tive and faculty offices, a two-story frame chapel building, a library, and a gymnasium, equipped with a stage. Opened by the Synod of the Norwegian Evangelical Lutheran Church of America in 1894, the academy was merged in 1919 with the Columbia Lutheran College, which had been established by the United Norwegian Lutheran Church in 1909; the union of the schools followed the amalgamation of the two churches in 1917. The three-year liberal arts and normal school departments of the college are accredited by the University of Washington and the State Department of Public Instruction. Enrollment in the school is over 500. Adjoining the grounds of the college is the 18-hole Parkland Golf Club Course (fees 35c; all day, $oc). At 7.2 m. on State 5 is a junction with a bituminous-surfaced road. Left on this road to the Brookdale Golf Course, 1.5 m. (fees 50c), also 18 holes. The clubhouse, of varicolored stones and brown shakes, resembles a Swiss chalet. The Oregon Tra1l Memor1al here commemorates the spot where the Naches Pass Immigrant Train last camped as a complete unit in October, 1853. Some of the party went south to Oregon from this spot, some north into King County, and others southwest into Thurston County. Large numbers settled near Parkland in Pierce County. Across the gold course is the Matthew Mahon Home, beside Clover Creek. Christopher Mahon, a veteran of the Mexican War, took up a donation land claim and settled here with his family in 1852. He built a log cabin, planted seven fruit trees, and began clearing land for a farm. In 1862 Mahon built a two-story house with lumber hauled overland from Tumwater. This house was used as a dwelling by Mahon's son Matthew until 1931, when it was replaced by the present structure. Near the thirteenth green of the golf course is the Mahon family cemetery. A roadside group of dwellings and small stores at 7.4 m. is BROOK- DALE (400 alt., 500 pop.), sometimes regarded as an extension of Parkland, but really an independent village. The flat prairie country around it is thinly forested with scrub oak and Douglas fir. At 8.4 m. is an intersection with the F1rst M1l1tary Road built in the State of Washington, marked by a large cobblestone pyramid erected by the Washington State Historical Society. This road was built from Steilacoom to Walla Walla across Naches Pass by the "people of the northern Oregon," after they had become exasperated by the slow progress made by the Federal Government. The first wagon train to cross the northern Cascades traveled on this road, which was completed in 1855. At 8.7 m. is SPANAWAY PARK (swimming, boating, camping), a 339-acre tract, popular as a picnic ground. The park lies along the east shore of SPANAWAY LAKE, one and one-half miles long and a half-mile wide. At 9.2 m. is a junction with a bituminous road.
Right on this road to SPAN AW AY, 0.2 m. (329 alt, 400 pop.), which was one of the earliest settlements in Pierce County. The Hudson's Bay Company's Nisqually Journal of Occurrences for April 26, 1849, records the entry, "Two plows sent to Spannuch and one to Muck." When or why the name was modified is unknown. The town has a post office, stores, taverns, and a creamery. Most of the business structures are false-fronted with high windows. A few modern structures mingle with the gray and weather-beaten older buildings. At 10.6 m. is a junction with State 5-H, a concrete-paved road. Right here through pastures and prosperous farmlands, the fields bright in spring and summer with camas flowers and lupine, to ROY, 7.9 m. (315 alt., 261 pop.), a bustling market center near the convergence of the Muck and Nisqually valleys. Three nurseries ship quantities of pine, spruce, and fir seed; a large bulb farm and a dairy farm, with herds of prize-winning cattle, lie adjacent to the town. Mink are bred successfully at two fur farms, and a hop ranch, located three miles east of the town, is noted for its long rows of hops. Another asset for the community is a lumber mill. Comfortable homes cluster around a large red-brick school. A branch line of the Northern Pacific bisects the business district, and the buildings are built about an open area surrounding the depot. Roy was named for the son of James McNaught, who platted the town site in 1884. South of Roy, State 5-H passes stump lands converted into farms and pas- tures. On the banks of the Nisqually River is McKENNA, 12.6 m. (285 alt, 200 pop.), started as a lumber company town about 1908. An irrigation project on the adjacent prairie was started by the company, and preference was given to laborers who purchased land. A school, a church, and a pool hall were the only institutions not controlled directly by the company. When the timber supply thinned out, and the lumber market sagged, the mill was dismantled, and even the land office was moved away. Only a quiet little village remains today where once a busy industrial town flourished. Passing a small co-operative creamery, the road swings through irrigated orchard lands. The name of YELM, 14.7 m. (350 alt, 378 pop.), in the midst of the prairie, preserves in modified form the Indian word for heat waves such as rise from sun-baked earth; the Indians reverenced Chelm, as they called the waves, believing that the Unseen Power radiated them to render the earth fruitful. Among the earliest settlers on Yelm Prairie was the family of James Long- mire, who crossed the Naches Pass with the first immigrant train in October 1853. Longmire, who took up cattle raising, was one of the earliest explorers of the Mount Rainier region. Until the recent introduction of irrigation, the prairies served as grazing land for beef cattle and sheep; and in early days the Hudson's Bay Company, which maintained a herdsmen's station and a farm here, established Yelm Ferry across the Nisqually River on the road to Fort Van- couver. Today young cowhands in sombreros and high-heeled boots drive to McKenna in modern automobiles, and truckloads of stock pass through the streets on their way to Puget Sound cattle markets. Irrigation has made possible the cherry orchards, prosperous farms, filbert groves, and berry patches that sprinkle the prairies near the town. The highway passes an abandoned sawmill and, paralleling the railroad, sweeps past prairies covered in summer with a mass of bloom. Camas flowers, ranging in color from white to a brilliant sky-blue, blend with yellow buttercups. RAINIER, 20.7 m. (430 alt, 500 pop.), served by the Northern Pacific and the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul & Pacific railroads, is the social center for farmers and loggers of the vicinity, although its closed mills and vacant houses mark it as a ghost lumber town. Southwest of Rainier, the road runs through TENALQUOT PRAIRIE, a district of park-like openings about groves of fir and other softwood timber. According to an Indian legend, Coyote told his favored tribes, a poor and oppressed people living in California, to prepare for a great migration to a new land he would seek out for them. Traveling northward, Coyote reached a beau-
tiful prairie, rich in game, well-watered, and pleasantly wooded. Exclaiming "Ten-al-quelth!" (the best yet!) he sent a messenger to guide his people to their new home. The bands which came, the legend says, were ancestors of the Indians who now live in the neighboring region. The road crosses a bridge, 23.5 m., over the DESCHUTES RIVER, veers westerly, traversing an area of stumps and second-growth timber, then passes Clear Lake, a long winding body of water filled with snags and bordered by large trees. TENINO, 29.7 m. (280 alt., 952 pop.), is at a junction with US 99 (see Tour %d). State 5, the main route, follows a southeasterly course from the junc- tion with State 5-H and passes a little community set among new cherry orchards. Left of the highway small homes are scattered amid forested areas and stump lands; along the right the Fort Lewis Military Reser- vation is covered with virgin trees and rich vegetation. Crossing a branch of MUCK CREEK, 18.2 m., the highway winds through a dreary area of stumps. Amid the black chaos of old logging waste and the scrubby brush of new growth are magnificent stands of Scotch broom. The highway, winding in great loops, then drops into a shallow valley. At 19.1 m. is JOHNSON'S CORNER, a junction with a bituminous road. Left on this road through an area of wild cutover land and stump farms. The bituminous paving ends at 2.2 m., and from there on to KAPOWSIN, 6 m. (630 alt., 582 pop.), the surface is graveled. Once important as a lumber- producing center, Kapowsin depends upon recreation trade for its major source of income. Small logging operations employ a few of the inhabitants. The town overlooks KAPOWSIN LAKE (fishing, swimming, boating, camping), northern- most lake in the fishing and recreation area known as the Blue Water Lakes District, which includes Tanway, Ohop, Clear, and several smaller lakes where resorts, campgrounds, and swimming and boating facilities are available. Beavers have constructed a whole series of dams around the outlet of the lake. Beginning a descent into OHOP VALLEY, the road passes Ohop Bob's Inn, 28.1 rn., which perches on the precipitous slope of an abrupt hill and overlooks the fertile valley far below. Mount Rainier towers above the landscape. Cross- ing the Ohop Creek Bridge, the highway winds upward through a mass of heavy firs, then descends rapidly to the floor of the valley. At 30.2 m. is a junction with a bituminous-surfaced road. Left on this road is EATONVILLE, 2.2 m. (800 alt, 996 pop.), named after T. C. Van Eaton, who platted its townsite in 1888. Surrounded by dense virgin forests and situated on the lines of the Tacoma Eastern Railroad, it became one of Washington's most important lumber-producing and log-shipping centers. The largest portion of the merchantable timber has been cut, and today but a few scattered logging operations can be found, and the mill in the town operates only at intervals. The development of farming in the valley to the west has provided Eatonville with an income, which compensates a little for the loss in revenue from timber. During the annual Community Day dance held in the spring, the streets are crowded with loggers and mountaineers recalling the lusty boom days of Eatonville's past. Tax returns from assessments on the Weyerhaeuser Timber Company's profit- able forest holdings enabled Eatonville to establish splendid school buildings and an educational system of high quality. The expansive landscaped grounds, with a group of buildings housing high school, grade school, and gymnasium, re- semble a small college campus. School busses transport children over miles of mountain roads. The school plant stands conspicuously at the head of the main business street.
South of the junction State 5 climbs steadily upward, over small rolling hills through virgin cedar forests. The PACK DEMONSTRA- TION FOREST (L) (open 9-5 weekdays; guides furnished) was established in 1926 on 2,000 acres of land donated by Charles Lathrop Pack to the University of Washington. The Forestry School of the University, with accommodations and facilities for 42 students, is in session here during spring and summer quarters. The curriculum in- cludes surveying, erosion control, forestry and conservation, laboratory work in entomology, and a field trip to the Wind River Nursery. On exhibition at the gatehouse and entrance is a section of a large Douglas fir log with 727 rings. Adjacent are a model of the forest and an erosion model, contrasting wooded with denuded hills. LATH- ROP DRIVE, a seven-mile loop of graveled road, encircles the major part of the demonstration area. The camp, located on the road up a hill from the entrance, includes a laboratory, a cookhouse, a recreation hall, and a classroom. A sawmill stands about 600 feet from the camp. LA GRANDE, 32.2 m. (942 alt., 105 pop.), perches on a sheer cliff more than 400 feet above the Nisqually River, which tumbles and froths through a 20-foot channel below. A lodge, a village store, and a gas station cling tenaciously to the slope beside the highway, trees hiding the canyon from view. Here is the city of Tacoma's hydro- electric plant below the reservoir, from which four penstocks carry water to the battery of huge turbines in the powerhouse 425 feet below. Completed in 1912, the plant was one of the earliest municipally owned projects in the State. It has a capacity of 25,600 kilowatts. Southeast of La Grande the highway climbs rapidly into rugged country, skirting the canyon rim and often scratching into great rocky cliffs. So precipitous are the walls that in places solid rock had to be blasted away for the entire width of the roadbed. These abrupt and rocky cliffs are tinged brown and orange. Turnouts are provided at points of unusual scenic beauty; far below, the railroad winds in a serpentine course along the canyon floor, where giant firs strive to reach the level of the roadway. Mountain farms with tiny orchards appear along the road, and cattle graze in the fields among clumps of young alder. Built on a sloping bench amid logged-off lands, ALDER, 36.4 m. (2,247 alt., 265 pop.), serves as a trading center for a community of mountaineers. Dressed in mackinaws, high "tin pants," and red hats, the men group about trucks, loaded with firewood and heavy logs, and chat in drawling tones. Red-cheeked women gather about the town's lone store and exchange bits of gossip. Living on mountain ranches, these people, descended from emigrants who came here from Tennessee, Kentucky, and the Carolinas, supplement a livelihood gained from their own logging efforts with a few vegetables grown on none too produc- tive soil. A three-story frame school building sits on a little hill in the village. Near the tracks (R) of the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul, and Pa- cific Railroad is the S1te of the Stratol1ner Crash, 37.5 m. The
giant Boeing ship was on a test flight in March, 1939,when it fell apart; the ten occupants were killed instantly. Logging operations are in progress in the forest along the road. ELBE, 41.4 m. (1,210 alt., 175 pop.), on a bank of the Nisqually River, is another gathering place for the mountain folk. Settled by German homesteaders in the early eighties, it was named for the Ger- man river. The town with its tiny church, log tavern, a store, a service station, and a brilliant-hued railroad depot, peers up at the denuded mountain range and forested peaks. Trucks laden with fuel wood stop at Elbe on their way to Puget Sound cities; and here is a junction with another branch of State 5 (see Tour 8E). Passing a Civilian Conservation Corps camp, 42.3 m., State 5 con- tinues across a broad benchland, bordered on either side by the BALD HILLS, favorite haunt of moonshiners before the repeal of the Volstead Law. Occasionally the Nisqually River is seen curling along the base of logged-off and burned foothills. Lonely farms, dropped in small cleared areas among blackened stumps, struggle for existence. At 48.7 m. is a junction with a bituminous road. Right on this road to NATIONAL, 0.2 m. (1,990 alt., 300 pop.), site of a large lumber mill. The great red buildings of the mill, its rusted stacks belching black smoke and white steam, dominate the town. Crowded close together and fronting crooked, planked streets are tiny box-like cottages, painted in the same dingy red as the mill. The lumber company dominates every phase of the town's activity, and no one who does not gain his living through the business of the mill lives in National. Citizens arise in the morning, eat their meals, and go to bed by the mill whistle. ASHFORD, 49.7 m. (1,771 alt., 290 pop.), the terminal of the Tacoma Eastern Railroad, has a fine school, hotel, stores, cabins, and service station. Built along both sides of the highway on the side of a mountain, it overlooks a valley and the roofs of National's mill and close-grouped cottages. Some of the employees of the mill live in Ash- ford, and other mill hands frequently drive the short distance to find relaxation in the Ashford tavern. Ashford has lost much of its importance as a log-shipping center, and relies for the bulk of its livelihood on the trade of recreation seekers. Bear, deer, and other game animals are common in the adjoining region, and parties make it a point of departure for hunting expeditions. One resident keeps a string of "varmint" dogs to track cougar, lynx, and other animals on which bounty is paid. The SNOQUALMIE FOREST RESERVE is reached at 51.7 m. In the highway cuts and in the lower levels are remnants of small glacial formations, while the higher elevations disclose evidences of the Tertiary period. Few places afford a better opportunity to study the slow processes of nature over tens of thousands of years. In the dim past, Mount Rainier grew from successive volcanic eruptions, andesite and basalt in fragmentary condition forming the bulk of the deposits. Erosion through the centuries released much of the rich deposits to blanket the base of the mountain and to nourish wind-borne seed, watered by underground seepage and plentiful rain, until a mammoth
T0UR 8D 531 \ forest arose. In the Snoqualmie Forest Reserve and the Mount Rainier National Park are preserved the best of these unspoiled forests. NISQUALLY ENTRANCE TO MOUNT RAINIER NA- TIONAL PARK, 54.9 m. (2,003 alt.), is marked by a huge arch of logs spanning the highway. Two campgrounds provide full accommo- dations, campsites, and tent cabins. Visitors register and obtain permits at the booth (L) which is connected by a common roof to the care- taker's cottage of peeled logs (see Mount Rainier National Pari). Tour 8E Marys Corner—Kosmos—Randle—Packwood—Ohanapecosh Entrance to Mount Rainier National Park; 74.8 m. State 5. Concrete-paved roadbed between Marys Corner and Silver Creek; rest graveled. Resort accommodations and forest camps. This section of State 5, called the White Pass Highway, crosses the fertile flats of the Chehalis and Newaukum Rivers and then roughly parallels the winding Cowlitz River, which, although seldom visible, is never more than a few miles from the highway. The flats and the lower Cowlitz Valley, settlement of which dates back to 1850, is a checker- board of small orchards, grain fields, and pastures dotted with Jersey and Holstein cattle. Farther eastward, the road runs through logged-off lands, partially overgrown by alder and willow and interspersed with stump farms. In the foothills the valley narrows between slopes covered with virgin forests of Douglas fir and hemlock, broken with patches of cutover and occasional black forest burns. Few settlers penetrated the foothills until the nineties, and even today most of the isolated villages have retained an almost rustic simplicity. State 5 branches east from US 99 at MARYS CORNER, 0 m. (see Tour 8d). At 5 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here through logged-off land to ON ALASKA, 4 m. (500 alt., 1,200 pop.), location of the Carlisle Lumber Plant, largest lumber mill in Lewis County, with an output at full capacity of 150,000 board feet a day. Rows of uniform, drab houses, owned by the company, are separated from the mill by a high board fence topped by barbed wire. As usual in such one-industry towns, the activities of the inhabitants are circumscribed by, and bound up with, "the mill." Recently, the town was the scene of a long and bitter labor dispute. During the general northwest lumber strike of 1935, the company replaced the striking mill hands with non-union crews, who were formed into an employees'
association, or company union. The controversy resulted in several clashes be- tween strikers on the one hand and the railroad police and the Washington State Patrol on the other. The strike continued until 1938, when the company began reinstatement of the strikers in accordance with a decision of the United States Supreme Court upholding the major portions of the findings of the National Labor Relations Board. Dissolution of the company union and recognition of collective bargaining rights were also ordered. A later decision, in 1938, ordering the payment of $158,000 in lieu of wages lost by the strikers, was also upheld in 1939 by the Supreme Court. State 5 continues through a farming area, with neat houses and well- constructed barns, surrounded by rolling fields of grain and pasture land. SALKUM, 10.0 m. (551 alt., 299 pop.), is a cluster of dilapidated, nondescript houses and two mills, the latter closed down as a result of the depletion of timber supply in the vicinity. Today (1941) only a few people remain in what was a flourishing sawmill town a decade ago. The adjacent countryside is largely wasteland, where willows, alders, and vine maple almost conceal the bleaching stumps, tombstones of forests that have passed away. SILVER CREEK, 11.1 m. (678 alt., 92 pop.), a lively settlement consisting of scattered houses and a few stores, stands on the crest of a hill from which State 5 winds down to the banks of the Cowlitz River. The Mayf1eld Br1dge, 12.8 m., affords a vantage point from which to see the green, swirling waters splashing between walls of varicolored rock. MAYFIELD, 12.9 m. (374 alt., 114. pop.), a few old stores, an ancient hotel, and a service station, is built along a nar- row shelf above the deep canyon through which flows the Cowlitz River. This area produces considerable honey; beehives are scattered throughout the fields and logged-off areas. The yield is high, running from 50 to 150 pounds a hive, and the honey has a delicious flavor because much of the nectar is gathered from the bloom of fireweed. This plant springs up, almost as if by magic, in the cutover or burnedoff lands. For a season the land is an ugly scar; the next it is a purple splash of blossoming fireweed. The long maturing period of the plant is an important factor in its honey yield; for the pod-like buds, extending two or three feet down the tall stalk, first begin to open in May, and as the summer advances, the flowering descends lower and lower on the stalk until in late August the ripened seed pods burst into silken gray tufts. So regular is the progression from the first flower to the final phase of full seeding that the saying is current, "If you don't know the month, look at the fireweed." MOSSYROCK, 15.3 m. (533 alt, 100 pop.), was named by the early settlers in 1852 for the crag which rises 200 feet above Klickitat Prairie. In 1855-6 when the war-like Klickitats made their way through the mountain passes to the east, the few settlers temporarily abandoned their homes. Today the town is a supply point and distribution center for the area- State 5 continues through farming and dairying country. Most of the land in this area has been under cultivation for more than a quarter
of a century, and the farms give evidence of considerable prosperity in the well-painted barns, large silos, and sleek cattle. RIFFE, 24.2 m. (533 alt., 100 pop.), above the Cowlitz River, supplies the needs of the adjacent farming and logging area. Here Thomas L. Blankenship fashioned crude ferry boats for early river passage. Today, the local blacksmith shop is prepared to repair a car or shoe a horse with complete impartiality. Farming is the chief occu- pation of the region. Also important is small-scale logging, the logs being felled in the back country and transported to the mills by privately owned trucks. Southern Baptists here have an old-fashioned church building. The Primitive Baptist Church, founded in 1894 by F. L. Riffe, was the forerunner of the present church. No minister leads their meetings. East of Riffe Valley, farms alternate with patches of second-growth timber and cutover lands, brilliant with flaming maple, fox glove, and fireweed. Some of the denuded hills already show the deep gullies of erosion. Here and there are unpainted shacks of clapboard, where live the families of loggers employed in the near-by logging camps and mills. In the more fertile parts of the bottoms are well-cultivated farms, dating back to pioneer days, with broad fields of grain and clover, meadow lands of timothy and redtop, and occasional orchards. Farther eastward, the highway again crosses the Cowlitz River and then parallels it for several miles. The hills, encroaching once more upon the narrowing valley, are still covered with forests of cedar, maple, and fir, logging operations having been extended this far inland only within recent years. KOSMOS, 35.2 m. (751 alt., 18 pop.), is a cluster of buildings at a Y-fork in the road through Rainey Valley, near the confluence of Rainey Creek and the Cowlitz River. The recent extension of the branch line of the Chicago, Milwaukee logging railroad to this point has led to a small-scale boom, and has changed a somnolent hamlet, whose life formerly centered around the store and post office, into an aggressive village. The Y is the junction of two branches of State 5, the left of which is a bituminous-surfaced road. Left from Kosmos a branch of State 5 winds through timbered hills, into which run several logging roads. The road is bordered by clusters of white and purple fox glove, patches of daisies, milkweed, and scattered beds of California poppies. Cutover areas and heavy stands of maple, fir, and cedar alternate, as the road winds over the ridges, then down toward the valley bottoms. On a hillside (R) at 4 m. is the entrance to the Morton C1nnabar M1ne, which formerly produced a considerable quantity of mercury. The thriving mining town of the twenties is today only a few shacks, mostly vacant, the reduction plant, stripped except for the framework and the retorts, and some old vats and ovens. MORTON, 7.2 m. (945 alt., 778 pop.), at the foot of Cutler Mountain, a high, forested, loaf-shaped bluff, sprawls along the highway and the tracks of the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad at the edge of the Tilton River Valley. It is an enterprising town, deriving most of its income from logging operations in the adjacent forests and the milling of the logs; nearly 100 carloads of logs and ties are sent daily to Tacoma and Seattle. Farming and dairying are also carried on. The first person to settle in the vicinity was
Uncle Jimmy Fletcher, who came from Missouri in 1871. Other families took up homesteads, but not until 1891 was the town of Morton settled. LINDBERG, 9.9 m. (20 pop.), one-time logging and mining town, con- sists today of a row of brick cottages, a row of abandoned company shacks on either side of the highway, a store, and the ruins of a mill (L), nearly ob- scured by willow and alders. Cascara bark is seen drying on the porches of the cottages. State 5 descends northward near a section of Snoqualmie National Forest into a valley, where stands of big trees alternate with marginal-land farms. CARLSON, 18.3 m. (1,561 alt., 35 pop.), once a busy sawmill town, exists today only because of the Interstate Power and Light Company plant here. Some of the few houses are occupied by company employees; others are falling into decay along with the abandoned mill (R). At 20 m. is a junction with a graveled road: R. here 2.7 m. to MINERAL (1,439 alt-, 500 pop.), headquarters of the West Fork Logging Company's opera- tions, carried on over an area of 23,000 acres. On the shores of Mineral Lake stand a large sawmill and a shingle mill. Selective logging technique, employing scientific methods to determine "ripe" timber and to fell trees in such a way as to result in a minimum of destruction of immature trees, has been substituted for the older methods of logging. Over 100 foresters, including graduates of forestry schools, direct conservation measures to insure the continued supply of logs. Stability of future production is reflected in the attractive brick and tile buildings maintained by the company, in contrast with the flimsy impermanence of most lumber towns. For a number of years mining played an important part in the life of the town. Most important were the deposits of red realgar, from which arsenic is extracted. A surface vein of rich ore discovered in 1900 was worked until 1922, when the perfecting of a smelting process which recovers arsenic as an inex- pensive by-product made the operation of the mine unprofitable. This section of State 5 ends at ELBE, 23.7 m. (see Tour »D), forming a junction with another branch of State 5 (see Tour SD). East of Kosmos the highway runs through a sparsely settled lowland, hemmed in by steep hills, serrated, and in spots heavily forested. In the grassy valley are old homesteads. Rickety snake fences border the road, and here and there are battened or tar-papered shacks. Cattle graze in tree-studded pastures, lush with clover, whose fragrance permeates the air in the spring. In early summer, occasional patches of blossoming mustard, brilliantly yellow, are to be seen. GLENOMA, 38.5 m. (775 alt., 450 pop.), consists of a cluster of houses, brick and frame, gray school buildings, and a State High- way Department depot The community depends for its existence upon marginal land farming, from which most of the inhabitants of the region gain their subsistence, and upon small-scale logging oper- ations. East of Glenoma, State 5 leaves the open bottom lands and passes through thin forests that have been cut over, bordering the road. Just off the road small tie-cutting outfits, operated by crews of two or three, find it possible to compete with large-scale production. At the base of the foothills or on their slopes, pyramids of yellow sawdust or piles of freshly cut ties mark the locations of the small saws; huge sawdust piles, turned the color of copper with age, indicate locations that have been worked out and abandoned. The foothills are still virgin wilderness, well-nigh inaccessible. Deer and bear are plentiful, and cougar not infrequently invade the barn-
yards of isolated farms. A well-known oldtimer, Cougar Bill, who lives on KIONA CREEK, 43 m., keeps a pack of hounds to track down cougar, an occupation which is both recreation and profit for him, the bounty and the pelts yielding a modest income. When pos- sible, he takes his quarry alive. The captive animals are kept in a crude pit, where they are tended carefully. The largest captive to date was a beautiful specimen about nine feet in length. Bill took special care of this animal, hoping to cross-breed it with one of his dogs; but the experiment was terminated when the local game warden declared the animal a public danger and ordered it shot. To this day Cougar Bill laments the lack of biological curiosity among game wardens. East of Kiona Creek, heavy forests extending down the hills over- shadow the highway. In the surrounding hills backwoods people from Virginia, Kentucky, and Tennessee have settled. Their nasal drawl and old-fashioned Anglicisms, their primtive shacks, and packs of hounds, their wild abandon at Saturday night dances in the valley, and fervent evangelistic sermons on Sundays, give the region a strong frontier flavor. Money never being too plentiful, the members of the community church pay their tithes by working "a spell" on the pastor's farm. "Gatherin's" are held about the valley at regular intervals, where gossip and commodities are traded with God's blessings. RANDLE, 47.5 m. (1,045 alt., 100 pop.), was founded in 1902 by the Randle Logging Company, and today the mill, with a daily capacity of 35,000 feet, is still the center of the town's activity. As land has been cleared, agriculture and dairying have become increasingly important occupations of the surrounding country. A cheese plant gives employment to some of the town's inhabitants and affords a market for surplus milk. When the sap begins to rise in the early spring, the lone store- keeper in Randle repaints a sign, "We Buy Cascara Bark," and the cascara gatherers, gunny sacks over their shoulders, plunge into the surrounding hills and valleys, where cascara thickets are plentiful. The cascara expert selects only the oldest trees, not only because the bark is thicker, but also to conserve the supply, for he knows that barking kills the tree. With a heavy knife he first girds the trunk from the butt upward at convenient intervals, then makes perpendicular cuts, and finally works the bark off slowly. It is carried home to dry in a loft or in sacks hung behind the kitchen stove. When cured, it is taken to the village store and either sold or applied on personal accounts. Prices range from 3c to 10c a pound, and a modest income can be made by those experienced in the trade, for 40 or 50 pounds can be gathered in an hour from a good stand. Randle is also the outfitting center for the Randle Recreation Area. Right from Randle on a dirt road to the CISPUS RIVER, 9.2 m., and then eastward along the course of the stream. At 14 m. is North Fork Forest Camp [camping facilities), in a grove of firs and cedars.
At 14.1 77i., on the east side of the North Fork, is a Reg1strat1on Stat1on of the Forest Service. Certain areas are closed from July 1 to September 30 be- cause of fire hazard, and it is essential to visit the station in order to ascertain the regulations. The road continues along the course of the Cispus River—except for brief intervals, when the stream winds away into the forest, only to reappear again as it pours over some rocky barrier in clouds of spray, or swirls in quiet eddies. A ridge of precipitous hills (R), scarred and weathered, rises above the valley to an elevation of nearly 6,000 feet. At 19 m. is a junction with a forest trail: L. to BLUE LAKE, 3 m. (camping and fishing). At 30 m. the road swings around a broad bend in the Cispus River beside BLUE RIDGE (L). ADAMS CREEK, which flows into the river at this point, carries such a load of silt in the spring from its glacial source that it discolors the waters of the larger stream before their confluence. Here is a Reg1strat1on Stat1on (L), and a junction with a forest road; L. here to Berry Patch Guard Stat1on and CHAMBER LAKE, 20.5 m. (camping and fishing). The main side road crosses the Cispus River and winds up the valley of Adams Creek to Taklahk Pond, 35 m., a forest camp surrounded by flower- strewn alpine meadows and forests of fir and hemlock. At Taklahk Pond is a junction with a forest road: L. here to CHAIN OF LAKES, 1 m., a delightful group of small lakes (camping and rafts). The road continues from Taklahk Pond to K1llen Creek Forest Camp, 39 m., amid extensive huckleberry patches, which ripen in late summer. At fre- quent intervals, forest trails lead off into the wilderness. The main side road ends at M1dway Guard Stat1on, 45 m., although it will eventually be extended to Yakima. East of Randle, State 5 runs parallel with the general course of the twisting Cowlitz River, traverses a meadowland draining into SILVER CREEK, crosses the COWLITZ, 57 m., over a steel span, then runs along the base of precipitous rocky slopes recording the geologic con- vulsions of this area. At 63.3 m. is a junction with a forest road. Right on this road along Johnson Creek to JENNINGS FALLS, 3.5 m., (L), and to GLACIER CREEK, 5 m., beyond which the road ends at a junc- tion with a trail. The trail continues to ANGRY MOUNTAIN (alt. 5,520), 1.5 771., center of a wild, uninhabited area, a paradise for sportsmen. PACKWOOD, 65.5 771. (1,054 alt., 150 pop.), was named for William Packwood, who came from Virginia to the Pacific Coast in 1844 and took a donation land claim in Thurston County in the fifties. He gained considerable reputation as an explorer, and as late as 1889 was a familiar figure along the trails with his string of pack horses. It is said that he would guide a party anywhere in the region for $2.50. The town of Packwood, lying between the Snoqualmie and the Columbia National Forests, is the outfitting center for the Randle and Goat Rocks Recreation Areas. An important social event is the annual spring dance given in the big hall as a farewell celebration for the fire lookouts, the foresters, and the game wardens, just prior to their departure for the forests. People come from the far end of the valley for the occasion. To the music of a four-piece orchestra of piano, fiddle, bass viol, and drum, punctured with laughter, yells, "stomping" of feet, and an occasional shot from the pistol of an over-exuberant hillman, the crowd dances until dawn.
1. Left from Packwood, a dirt road crosses the Cowlitz River to Skate Creek Guard Stat1on, 5 m., on Butter Creek (good fishing), and ends on MUDDY SLOUGH, 11 m., at a junction with a trail. The trail continues along the MUDDY FORK RIVER, crosses BOX CANYON, 3 m., a gash in the rocks through which the waters seethe 1oo feet below, and after traversing a region of deep canyons and sheer cliffs, ends at TATOOSH RIDGE LOOK- OUT, 10 m. From here a superlative view of the Cascade Range is obtainable. 2. Right from Packwood on a trail through woodland to PACKWOOD LAKE, 6 m., named for the guide, Packwood, who was reputedly the first white man to see it. The trail skirts the lake to the edge of GOAT ROCKS PRIMITIVE AREA 7.7 m., a wilderness region 5 miles in width and ta in length lying on both sides of the crest of the Cascades. Snow fields, sheer gray cliffs, pools of inky blue rimmed with lush grass and flowers, and sub-alpine streams characterize the area. Mountain goats, black bear, and deer roam the wooded patches, and mink, raccoon, otter, and marten are seen along the water- courses. Traversing increasingly rugged country, the trail fords UPPER LAKE CREEK at 12 m. and again at 13 m. At CHIMNEY ROCK, 17 m. (L), the trail enters PACKWOOD SADDLE and ascends the steep slopes to the junction with the CASCADE CREST TRAIL, which when completed will extend from the Canadian border to Mexico. The trail swings around EGG BUTTE, and through heather-covered slopes to SNOW GRAND FLATS, 33 m., a camp site (6,400 alt.), reputed to be the highest in the State. It ends at GOAT ROCKS, 35 m. (8,201 alt.), jagged pinnacles surmounting walls of granite. Northeast of Packwood, State 5 runs through a dense forest of cedar, pine, and fir. Many of the trees tower 200 feet or more in the air, and the branches interlace so closely that only random shafts of sunlight can penetrate to the ground. Clear Fork Guard Stat1on, 71.6 m. (L), is at the confluence of the Clear Fork and Ohanapecosh (Ind. deep blue pool) Rivers. The latter stream widens into a sapphire basin before uniting with the Clear Fork. Here is a junction with a forest road. Left on this road 1.5 m. to a State F1sh Hatchery, which in 1936 planted 2,490,487 salmon fry. At 74.5 m. is a junction with an improved forest road. Right on this road is Soda Springs Forest Camp, 3 m., named for the adjacent springs of bubbling mineral water. The road ends at the junction with the COWLITZ PASS TRAIL to the SUMMIT LAKES, 4 m., 100 small lakes surrounded by meadows on a plateau 4,500 feet or more in elevation. Good campsites and fishing spots are available on Jug, Deerhead, Dumbell, and Frying Pan Lakes. North of the junction, State 5 continues on a roadbed cut from the face of towering granite cliffs. At 75.4 m. is the park boundary and the OHANAPECOSH ENTRANCE to Mount Rainier National Park (see Mount Rainier National Park).
Junction with US 410—Shelton — Sequim—Port Angeles—Forks— Hoquiam—Aberdeen—Raymond—Megler—(Astoria, Ore.); US 101. Junction to Oregon Line, 370.7 m. No railroad passenger service on the peninsula or to Willapa Bay; ferry service between several points on the east shore of Puget Sound and the peninsula. Graveled and oiled roadbeds, with short stretches of concrete-paved and bitu- minous-surfaced roadbeds. Hotel accommodations in larger towns and resorts; inns, cabins, and camping spots at frequent intervals; several ocean beach resorts. Summer months best for touring, but winter-sports areas are being developed. US 101, the Olympic Peninsula and Pacific Ocean Highway, begins about five miles west of Olympia, at the point where it leads north- ward from US 410, skirts the many-fingered upper reaches of Puget Sound, and then cuts across to Hood Canal, which it follows to Quimper Peninsula. Swinging in a westerly direction, the route roughly parallels Juan de Fuca Strait for nearly 100 miles and then turns to the south and zigzags to Grays Harbor, Willapa Bay and the lower Columbia River country. Practically encircled by the route is the wilderness of the Olympic National Forest and the Olympic National Park (see Olympic National Pari), a region of rugged, white-tipped peaks and alpine valleys, steep wooded foothills, glaciers and crystal lakes, and turbulent, icy streams fed by the melting snows of the high mountains. A profusion of wild flowers, fostered by the heavy precipitation of fall and winter months, adds to the charm and beauty of this nearly primitive area. Thousands of deer and large herds of Roosevelt elk feed in the high meadows and browse in wooded glades, fish abound in the lakes and streams, ptarmigan and grouse whir across the roads and trails, and bears feed on the tender shrubs and berries. Access to this wilderness is possible from various points along US 101, by means of stub roads that run for short distances into the forests; here, some are met by rigorous mountain trails that lead to high plateaus and mountain meadows, through somber forest aisles, along precipitous slopes, and up the narrow valleys of cascading streams. Several of these trails can be followed on horseback. Resorts, camps, and forest shelters occur at fairly frequent intervals. But the mountains are only a part of this wilderness wonderland. Salt water is never far distant. Side roads dart down to idyllic beach camps, where time is marked only by the changing shadows of towering fir and cedar upon the mirror of some protected bay or inlet; or they lead to picturesque fishing towns, Indian villages, white-walled light- houses, seaports, sawmill towns, and isolated trading hamlets. Occa- sionally branch roads, and even the main highway, swing down to the
precipitous, surf-thrashed coast, or to points from which can be seen the sweep of rolling green breakers, as they crash white-tipped upon hard-packed sands or thunder against jagged cliffs. South of Aberdeen, the main route winds through high hills, some covered with heavy stands of maturing second- and third-growth forests, others bare except for bleaching stumps and charred logs. At Raymond the highway again reaches salt water and, swinging south- ward, skirts the east shore of Willapa Bay. Branch roads lead across marshlands and cranberry bogs down to the Pacific Ocean. Scattered along this section of the route are tidewater hamlets and beach resorts, Indian reservations, lighthouses on lonely promontories, and miles of sandy beaches, broken by jutting rocks over which the breakers tumble in a swirl of green water and white spume. The route ends at Megler on the Columbia, where a ferry connects with Astoria, Oregon, and the southward extension of US IO1. Section a. JUNCTION WITH US 410 (5 m. west of Olympia) to SEQUIM; 100.2 m. US 101 This section of US 101, leaving the well-settled industrial and agri- cultural region at the head of Puget Sound, heads northward through sparsely populated prairies and logged-off hills to Hood Canal, and then pursues a quiet way along the wooded western shore to Quimper Peninsula and Discovery Bay. Cutting across the highway are many rivers and small streams. Dominating the horizon on the left, forested foothills rise in an ascending series to the saw-toothed Olympics, clear- cut and dazzling in bright sunlight, at other times veiled in mist or shrouded in storm clouds, which creep down the canyons and spread out over the lowlands. At infrequent intervals forest roads wind into the deep fragrant woods, bright with wild currants and rhododendron in bloom, splashes of red elderberry, and cascades of creamy-white spiraea and ocean spray. On the right, seldom entirely out of range of vision, is Hood Canal, sleeping in the summer sun, its oily calm broken only by chance ripples or the forked wake of motor boat or fishing craft; or lying black and still at midnight, except when a leaping salmon or the oar of a passing boatman strikes balls of phosphorescent fire from its sur- face. At widely separated intervals, small settlements appear along the highway or perched above the water's edge, where tiny docks on barnacle-encrusted pilings afford anchorage to fishing smacks, pleasure craft, and rowboats; and here and there the forests are broken by clearings, small ranches, and dairy farms. Leading slightly inland, the route cuts across the neck of Quimper Peninsula, down which a branch road turns to Port Townsend; skirts the tip of Discovery Bay, and then turns left along the Juan de Fuca Strait to Sequim. North of the junction with US 410 (see Tour 2d), 0 m., US 101 winds through low hills, where small farms and chicken ranches alternate with patches of immature evergreen and clumps of alder,
and skirts the tip of Eld Inlet, known locally as Mud Bay, and of Oyster Bay. Glimpsed through the trees are the stakes of oyster beds and, when the tide is out, the muddy flats dotted with shallow pools left by the ebbing water. Suddenly the highway lifts itself away from salt water and traverses a stretch where sturdy second-growth trees, stump lands, and small areas of virgin timber are intermingled. In the valleys of this rolling country are scattered farmhouses surrounded by gnarled old fruit trees, berry fields, pastures, and truck gardens. NEW KAMILCHE (Ind. valley), 9.2 m. (sea level, 5 pop.), in the valley of Skookum Creek, once a logging town, is today a way- side village where service stations, auto camps, a garage, and a store or two bustle with activity during the summer months. The shallow, protected waters of the adjacent inlet are suitable for oyster culture. Edging away from the water, US 101 winds up an easy undulating grade. Much of this region, logged off about 40 years ago, is covered by half-mature fir and cedar; small sections, however, are still denuded wastes, where blackened stumps and bleaching snags are half-hidden by clumps of alder and hazel and brightened by the purplish-red of fire- weed in bloom. Scattered along the route are farm homes surrounded by old orchards, meadows of timothy and sweet clover, gardens, and neat squares of oats and wheat. Abruptly the highway descends as it nears Oakland Bay, on Hammersley Inlet from Puget Sound. SHELTON, 15.6 m. (22 alt, 3,707 pop.), seat of Mason County, spreads in neat squares over the flats bordering the bay. From here highways radiate to all parts of the peninsula. In 1853 David Shelton settled on a donation claim; then other settlers began to arrive, at first slowly and then more rapidly as the demand for logs and cut timber grew. In 1884 the town was platted and named for its first settler. For a number of years it grew and prospered as a sawmill town and center for logging operations, which ate their way steadily inland, consuming in less than a generation forests that it had taken hundreds of years to produce. Unlike many sawmill and logging towns, Shelton is finding indus- tries to take up the slack left by the depletion of the supply of timber suitable for milling. Most important of these is the manufacture of wood pulp, for which smaller trees are suitable. The Rayon1er, Inc. Pulp Plant (visitors by permission), a num- ber of buildings clustering around a huge smokestack, spreads over nearly 160 acres along the water front. When the plant is operating, sometimes on a 24-hour basis, sulphurous smoke trails across the sky, and the citizens of Shelton welcome the acrid odor, for it signifies jobs for workers and jingling cash registers in business establishments. At present (1941) the plant turns out pulp only, the finished paper or rayon products being manufactured elsewhere. An experimental laboratory (visitors not admitted) carries on research directed toward the utilization of factory wastes. One by-product already developed, Purite, a fluid used in batteries, utilizes about one-half of the fluid
wastes; the remainder is pumped to a gravelly flat several miles north of town, where it filters slowly into the ground. In the early thirties the pulp-making industry clashed with another new industry—the culture of oysters on the flats of Oakland Bay. Oyster interests, charging that the dumping of sulphite waste into the bay was ruining the oyster beds, filed damage suits. Attempts to settle the bitter controversy failed, and the mill was closed. Alarmed over the possibility of losing the plant, the citizens of Shelton raised $166,000 by popular subscription to recompense the oyster growers for any losses sustained, and the company in turn agreed to reopen the plant and to work out a suitable method of disposing of the sulphite wastes. Recently, the company acquired the oyster beds that had been injured by pollution and is now experimenting with oyster culture. This work is handled by a separate division of the parent organization. In Shelton is a junction with State 14-A, an alternate route to Belfair and other points on Kitsap Peninsula (see Tour 9-A). Northwest of Shelton US 101 again climbs gradually away from Puget Sound to gravelly uplands. Spur roads give access to the fishing and hunting areas to the westward. At 18.7 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left here 1.6 m. to the Shelton Golf Course (greens fee 35c, 9 holes; 500 18 holes), an interesting nine-hole course, which employs effectively the park- like prairie and natural hazards. SCOTT'S PRAIRIE, 20.7 m., a stretch of open grassland with scattered clumps of trees, was named for John Tucker Scott, who settled here in 1854. Two of his children won prominence as journal- ists; Harvey W. Scott, veteran editor of the Oregonian, a Portland daily, and Mrs. Abigail Scott Duniway, editor, writer, and pioneer advocate of woman suffrage. At 30.2 m. is a junction with State 14, a bituminous-surfaced road (see Tour qA). North of the junction US 101 runs through the SKOKOMISH INDIAN RESERVATION. Only a few families remain on the reservation, the population, according to the Bureau of Indian Affairs, being about 200. Most of these Indians supplement meager incomes from small farms by fishing; some also work seasonally in berry fields, on truck farms, and in sawmills. HOOD CANAL, 30.7 m., is really not a canal but an 80-mile-long, tide-washed channel from Admiralty Inlet. Gravelly beaches, stretches of sedge-covered lowlands, and gold-brown tide flats frame the placid waters. Rafts of logs sleep in protected inlets, and fishing craft rock safely at anchor or cut their way across the placid surface of the water. For miles the highway hugs the western shore of the canal, into which flow numerous creeks making stop-and-go, staircase descent. On warm spring days the beaches are dotted with clam diggers, shovels and buckets in hand, trousers rolled above their knees. The canal was discovered and named by Captain George Van- couver on May 13, 1792. In his journal he records: "Early on Sunday
morning, the 13th, we embarked directing our route down the inlet, which after the Rt. Honorable Lord Hood, I called Hood's Channel." For some reason the name appeared in Vancouver's Voyage of Dis- covery as Hood's Canal. The United States Geographical Board dropped the possessive form. POTLATCH (Ind. to give), 29 m. (sea level, 60 pop.), the com- mercial headquarters of the Skokomish Indian Reservation, was named for the Indian custom of exchanging gifts—blankets, canoes, baskets, guns, and other articles—at a community feast. Here stood the Pot- latch House, center of activities during the festivals of former days. Many of the Skokomish Indians have embraced the Shaker religion, which John Slocum, an Indian, is credited with founding. Services, conducted in the native tongue, begin with a solemn exhortative sermon by the leader. Then he calls for prayers; in turn each wor- shipper calls out his petition, and the assemblage echoes it in a deep- toned, thrilling chant. After the prayers a deacon, a bell in either hand, leads a ceremonial dance around the room to the accompani- ment of rhythmic chanting and the jingle of bells. Each dancer in turn revolves before the altar and passes his hand through flaming candles for purification. HOODSPORT, 31.1 m. (sea level, 500 pop.), spreads westward toward abruptly rising hills and eastward down to the water's edge. Once Hoodsport was a bustling logging town, but today its income comes largely from vacationists, transient trade, and small-scale fish- ing operations. Native to the waters adjacent to Hoodsport is a small species of shrimp; the firm texture and delicate flavor brought so great a demand that over-fishing resulted. Now only strict adherence to conservation measures can guarantee the survival of the shrimp in Hood Canal. In Hoodsport is a junction with a graveled road. Left here up a winding grade through cutover land, where small fir, hemlock, and alder nearly obscure the stumps of the magnificent trees that covered these slopes less than 50 years ago. Logging is still carried on farther west in the foothills of the Olympics. Heavy trucks, their trailers loaded with sections of immense trees, have replaced the oxen, which once snaked the logs from the woods; roaring around the curves of the road, these trucks thunder down the grade. LAKE CUSHMAN (good trout fishing; boats), 5 m., a man-made lake some ten miles in length, furnishes a controlled and dependable supply of water for the Tacoma hydroelectric plant. Early in the twenties the citizens of Tacoma, led by Homer T. Bone and other champions of public ownership of power, took the legal steps necessary as a preliminary to the construction of this municipally owned project. Two dams, 275 and 240 feet in height respectively, were built across the North Fork of the Skokomish River, thus creating Lake Cushman; a large power plant was erected at the lower end of the lake and another near Hood Canal. Today Tacoma claims a lower average electricity rate than any other city in the United States. The road runs in a westerly direction along the north shore of the lake. Wooded slopes roll upward from the narrow valley to rugged peaks. At 10.5 m. is a junction with a forest trail, to MOUNT ELLINOR (4,400 alt.), 7 m. The main side road continues to the head of the lake, 17 m., and then leads along the bank of a turbulent stream to Staircase Campground (L), 18.5 m.,
to L1ncoln Guard Station (R), 19 m., and the end of the road, 21 m., where it makes a junction with a forest trail. At B1g Log (trail-side shelter), 2 m., the trail forks; the right branch leads to Camp Nine Stream, 4 m., and the left branch to Graves Creek Camp, 20.5 m. (see Tour 9c). North of Hoodsport US 101 runs like a quiet, shaded lane between Hood Canal, visible through the interstices of the trees, and forested foothills that march upward to rocky, snow-capped peaks. Occasionally an old logging road or trail leads into the somber woods, where dense undergrowth of huckleberry and salmonberry bushes, salal, Oregon grape, and ferns forms an unbroken carpet. Here and there water from hidden springs trickles down exposed embankments to form shallow roadside pools. The air is heavy with the mingled odor of green leaves, damp mosses, fungi, decaying vegetation, and rotting logs. LILLIWAUP (Ind. inlet), 35.4 m. (15 alt., 75 pop.), straggles along the highway and the shores of Lilliwaup Bay. Years ago the town was a center of logging activity and an outfitting point for prospectors working in the upper Skokomish River country. In Lilliwaup is a junction with a forest trail. Left on this trail, 0.6 m., is LILLIWAUP FALLS. Lilliwaup Creek, an amber-colored stream born in swampy forest pools, pours between bare walls, 150 feet above the valley floor; then plunges into a natural basin, where for a moment it hesitates before falling in a column of mist and spray into the dark pool at the foot of the cliff. From the pool the creek flows quietly seaward between gravelly banks and over sandy shallows. During spawning season salmon, on their upstream migration, struggle futilely in the waters at the foot of the falls. Fir trees bend over the walls of the canyon and rise from the narrow floor; deep shadows lie perpetually against the metallic blue-black of the rocky cliffs. ELDON, 44 m. (sea level, 100 pop.), on Hamma Hamma Bay, was a brisk town in the early 1900's, when logging operations on the upper Hamma Hamma River were extensive. Weathered buildings along the bay and an abandoned railroad fill are reminders of this vanished activity. North of Eldon US 101 swings across the Hamma Hamma River and again plunges into dense forests broken occasionally by small clearings and open spaces, which afford panoramic views of Hood Canal and the wooded shores beyond. At 45.8 m. is a junction with a forest road. Left here along the north bank of the Hamma Hamma River. At 1.8 m. is a junction with a trail: R. on the trail is the Hamma Hamma Guard Stat1on, 6 m., just within the Olympic National Forest. At 7 m. is the Webb Lookout Station, a fine point for a view of Hood Canal and the Olympics. The end of the road, 15 m., is deep in the rugged country near the source of the river. At 54 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left here 0.5 m. is DUCKABUSH (50 alt., 90 pop.), where the tide flats meet the foothills at the apex of a narrow valley, lying between two ridges that run to the water's edge. Duckabush is the provisioning point for hikers tramping the Duckabush Trail and for a few small-scale ranches in the foothills.
At 55 m., at a point just north of the Duckabush River, is a junction with a forest road. Left here up a slightly winding grade to Interrorem Camp and Guard Stat1on, 4 m. As the road leads deeper into the Olympic National Forest, the country becomes increasingly wild and rugged. Continuing up the Duckabush Valley, the road ends at 7 m., at a junction with a trail, which climbs steadily into the wilderness. B1g Hump Camp, 1.4 m., on the trail, lies practically at the foot of MOUNT JUPITER (5,650 alt.). To the southwest, across the Duckabush River, rise THE BROTHERS (6,855 alt), Duckabush Camp, 22 m., is at the head of the Duckabush River (open to fishing; steelhead and several species of trout). BRINNON, 58 m., lies at the mouth of the Dosewallips River. Much of this fertile delta has been drained and converted into fine farm land. A ferry ($1 car and driver; 25c passenger) connects with Seabeck on the Kitsap Peninsula (see Tour 9A). This part of the Hood Canal is a regular camping ground for the Clallam Indians, who have permanent homes along Juan de Fuca Strait. As a rule they arrive in August to catch and dry the dog salmon running at that time; then they pick and dry huckleberries, which grow prolifically in the woods around Brinnon. Occasionally a few families remain all winter, but most return home in time for the winter dances. At 59.6 m., about a mile north of the Dosewallips River, is a junction with a dirt road. Left here through a wooded wilderness. Fir, cedar, and occasionally hemlock border the road, their spreading branches at times meeting overhead. Noisy streams sparkle through the thickets of ferns and trailing vines, swirl around fallen logs, and chatter between banks of shale. Here and there miniature niagaras plunge to join the Dosewallips, which dashes headlong down the precipitous slopes. The entrance to the Olympic National Forest by means of this road is marked by the Corr1genda Guard Station (fire permits issued here), 5.5 m. West of the station the road winds and climbs, roughly paralleling the course of the river. Elkhorn Camp (camping facilities), 11 m., at the end of the road, is the junction point for several interesting trails leading into the primitive area of the Olympic Mountains. (1) Right from the end of the road a trail ascends steep, wooded slopes, broken now and then by ravines and rocky patches, to LAKE CONSTANCE, 4 m., whose clear blue water mirrors the surrounding woods and peaks. En- circling the lake are mountain meadows, bright in season with a profusion of wild flowers. North of the lake, rising above heavily forested foothills, is MOUNT CONSTANCE (7,777 alt.). (2) Left (straight ahead) a second trail leads along the north bank of the Dosewallips River. Happy Camp, 4 m., in a pleasant opening in the timber, and MuscOTt Cab1n, 7.5 m., both maintained by the Forest Service, may be used by visitors, although built primarily for the use of forest workers. At 9 m., the main trail forks: L. across the Dosewallips River is Soda Spr1ngs, 3 m., on the branch trail, which continues to D1amond Meadows Camp and ANDERSON PASS in the Olvmpic National Park (see Olympic National Park): R. along the north fork of the river a trail leads to DOSE MEADOWS and the Hayes R1ver Guard Stat1on (see Olympic National Park). US 101 continues northward along the west side of Dabop Bay, an arm of Hood Canal, and then swings inland through a corner of the Olympic National Forest to round the base of Mount Walker.
The highway climbs perceptibly, as the mountains crowd in upon it for a short distance; ravines lead off into the deep forests. Ra1nbow Camp and Guard Stat1on (L), 67.2 m., in a setting of trees and shrubs beside the Big Quilcene River, lies at the top of the grade. Forest trails lead up the river and Tunnel Creek. At 67.2 m., on the opposite side of the road from the camp, is a junction with an improved road. Right here at the end of a road that spirals up the side of MOUNT WALKER (3,018 alt.), is Mount Walker Lookout Station, 1.2 m. This vantage point offers a splendid view of Dabop Bay, Hood Canal, and Juan de Fuca Strait, and of the long line of the Cascades on the east and the Olympics on the west. North of Rainbow Camp the highway curves downward through a narrow valley. Crossing the Big Quilcene, US 101 turns eastward toward Dabop Bay. QUILCENE (Ind. salt water people), 69 m. (30 alt., 250 pop.), centers along the river flats and straggles down to the water's edge. The lowlands where the town now stands were settled in the late sixties, when Samuel H. Cottle took up land there. Others soon joined him, putting up log cabins and starting small logging operations and farming. In the nineties, the Port Townsend and Southern line was laid to Quilcene, and the hope that the town would become an im- portant link led to a short-lived boom, which collapsed with the abandonment of plans for the rail line. Recently the rails from Port Discovery Bay to Quilcene were pulled up. Today, farming and dairy- ing are the major sources of income for the community. Quilcene is an outing center and is also the district headquarters for the Forest Service. Quilcene Bay, an arm of Dabop Bay, is known for its oyster culture. Frequently in the propagation of oysters considerable difficulty is encountered in controlling the cultch, or spat, as the young oysters are called. The cultch at first floats in the water for ten days or more; then it attaches itself to some piece of gravel or shell. In many places the force of tidal currents, or the lack of protection from winds, results in the loss of the cultch before it secures an anchor; but the waters of Quilcene Bay recede without greatly endangering the cultch during its floating, unanchored period. North of Quilcene US 101 turns from the water and runs through a scattering of small farms, dairy and chicken ranches, patches of stump lands, and stands of timber. Numerous small streams make their way down the wooded slopes and through open glades. At 81.2 m. is a junction with State 9, a bituminous-surfaced road. Right here around the tip of Discovery Bay, skirting its eastern shore. It was in this bay that Vancouver anchored his vessels in 1792, when he set out in his cutter, pinnace, and long boat, on the foggy morning of May 7, to explore the shoreline to the eastward. The area lying between the bay and Port Town- send Bay to the east was named Quimper Peninsula in honor of the Spanish seaman who explored these shores in 1790. Francisco de Eliza, another Spaniard, also used the bay as a temporary base of exploration in 1791, a year before Vancouver.
At 1.8 m. is a junction with State 9-E, an improved road. Right here through level land broken by occasional low hills, partially covered with small trees. At 11 m. is a junction with a graveled road: R. on the graveled road is SHINE, 6 m. (sea level, 60 pop.). A ferry ($1 car and driver; i$c passenger) connects with Port Gamble, (see Tour 9-A). PORT LUDLOW, 12 m., on State 9-E (sea level, 400 pop.), in former years was a center of shipping for lumber from Quimper Peninsula. The first sawmill in Jefferson County was erected here in 1852, a makeshift affair that, according to reports, ran one day and then closed down a week for repairs. Improved machinery increased the output sufficiently to enable the mill to supply many of the small settlements that were springing up along the Sound and occasionally to send a cargo to San Francisco. Today, Port Ludlow is a shipping and supply point for the surrounding region, which is becoming an increasingly important agricultural and dairying area. Ferries connect with Edmonds, adjacent to Seattle ($2.50 car and driver; 50c passenger). State 9, the main side road, continues in a northeasterly direction through partially wooded countryside. The Quimper Peninsula in early summer is liter- ally ablaze with the gorgeous pink and rose of rhododendron. These shrubs sometimes reach a height of 15 to 20 feet in the cool depths of the forest. Along the road are berry fields, truck gardens, lush meadows, fields of timothy and clover, and modern poultry and dairy farms. PORT TOWNSEND, 15.1 m. (80 alt., 4,683 pop.), lies on Port Townsend Bay at the extreme northeastern point of Quimper Peninsula. The business section spreads along the water front, the main streets being lined with sub- stantial old buildings dating back to the boom days, when the town was measur- ing its future in terms of a major city. The residential section is centered on the level top of a bluff that rises above the water front. Eastward across Admiralty Inlet rises the dark bulk of Whidbey Island, and dominating the horizon on the southwest are the Olympic Mountains, some 30 miles distant. Port Townsend is one of the most interesting historical points in the North- west. In May 1792, Captain George Vancouver and a party of his men, while anchored in Discovery Bay, started out in small boats to explore the coast line. The fog was heavy when he pushed around a sandy promontory, which he named Point Wilson, and hence he was not aware of the nature of the body of water he had entered until the sun broke through the fog, just as he reached what is Point Hudson. Vancouver was much impressed with the beauty of the setting and the extent and character of the bay, which he called Port Townsend for the English marquis of that name. Pioneer settlers were Alfred A. Plummer, a young harness maker from Maine, and Charles Bacheller. While in San Francisco they heard of Puget Sound— its forests, its fish, and its fertile soil—from Captain Lafayette Balch; as a consequence they took passage with Balch on the brig George Emery to Steila- coom. From there they went by canoe to Port Discovery Bay, which the captain had described to them as they sailed around the point into Puget Sound. On April 24, 1851, they landed on the beach below the high bluffs and were met by a number of Indians who lived on the bay. Soon the two men were joined by Loren B. Hastings and Francis W. Pettygrove (who had recently founded Portland, Oregon) and their families. By May 1852, the settlement consisted of 3 families and 15 bachelors. Among the early settlers in the area was one Albert Briggs. In 1852 he decided to leave Portland; sending his family by boat, he started overland with a herd of 30 head of cattle. At Tumwater, near Olympia, he loaded his cattle on a scow and, floating with the tide by day and beaching it at night, he reached a shallow harbor opposite Port Townsend. The trip took 15 days. To commemorate his voyage, Briggs named the harbor where he landed Scow Bay. In the summer of 1852, it was decided to call the settlement Port Townsend, dropping the letter "h", as Commander Wilkes had done for the bay in 1841. Thus the name appeared when the first post office was established, and thus it was spelled in the official record of the plat of the town. Land was cleared, stores opened, and homes were built. Trees were felled and rolled down to the
beach, by hand power or with the help of oxen, and then rafted out to ships and loaded for California. During the gold rush to the Fraser River country, Port Townsend received its share of the outfitting business, for most vessels dropped anchor in the bay to clear at the customs house. After the collapse of the boom many of the miners returned to make their homes in the town. In Steep Trails John Muir gives an interesting picture of the town in the eighties: "This being the port of entry, all vessels stop here, and they make a lively show about the wharves and in the bay. The winds stir the flags of every civilized nation, while the Indians, in their long-beaked canoes, glide about from ship to ship, satisfying their curiosity or trading with the crews. Keen traders these Indians are, and few indeed of the sailors or merchants from any country ever get the better of them in bargains. Curious groups of people may often be seen, English, French, Spanish, Portuguese, Scandinavians, Germans, Greeks, Moors, Japanese, and Chinese of every rank and station and style of dress and behavior; settlers from many a nook and bay and island up and down the coast; hunters from the wilderness; tourists on their way home by the Sound and the Columbia River or to Alaska or California." During the days of sailing vessels and of the early stern- and side-wheelers, Port Townsend was the "Key City," with boat lines radiating to many ports. The coming of the railroad to Tacoma alarmed the citizens of the town, at the same time that it raised visions of a "western New York" in the minds of the more optimistic. Early plans for a Northern Pacific connection with the Columbia River failed to materialize. Port Townsend citizens, convinced that they must take the initiative, incorporated their own company, the Port Townsend and Southern, in 1887, and began to acquire property for a right of way along Hood Canal and to solicit funds to finance construction. Stimulated by the speculative fever, property values soared, population increased to 7,000, six banks did a rushing business, large office buildings were erected, and scores of homes went up almost overnight. The transfer of the franchise to the Oregon Improvement Company, a subsidiary of the Union Pacific, merely served to accelerate the boom. By September 1, 1890, trains were running from Port Townsend to Lake Hooker, but work on the line was beginning to drag; officials seemed more interested in speculating in real estate than in building a rail line. Disquieting whispers of impending failure of the company were confirmed in November, when it was learned that the company had gone into receivership. Real-estate values fell, thousands of people deserted the town, and everyone knew that the dream was over. A city with the facilities for a population of 20,000 soon had fewer than 2,000. Attempts in the nineties to establish industries also met with indifferent success. A huge drydock was constructed but was towed elsewhere when it was nearly completed; a nail works opened in 1892 and failed soon thereafter; and several other enterprises opened only to close after a short time. The panic of 1893 filled Port Townsend Bay with ships of all kinds and tonnage; there they lay idly at anchor, until the improvement of business conditions in 1897 called them again into the channels of trade. Since the beginning of the twentieth century Port Townsend has achieved a degree of stability, in spite of serious setbacks from time to time. Strategically situated, it has been the headquartrs for various Government operations for more than 50 years. Fort Worden, adjoining the city, provides a steady pay roll. One of the most important industrial developments was the building of a $7,000,000 plant here, in 1927, by the Crown Zellerbach Corporation (paper and pulp). The extension of agriculture near Port Townsend and in the Chima- cum Valley and the steady increase in tourist and recreation trade are other factors of importance in the economic life of Port Townsend today. North of the junction with State 9 the highway, US 101, parallels the west shore of Discovery Bay. MOUNT CHATHAM (2,000 alt.) was named by Captain George Vancouver. PORT DISCOVERY, 84.2 m. (sea level, 166 pop.), huddles
along the edge of the bay. It is a minor shipping point for lumber and logs and home port for a few small fishing craft. Near the town was the camp of Captain George Vancouver. BLYN, 93.2 m. (sea level, 300 pop.), lies at the tip of picturesque Sequim Bay. Old buildings nestle at the base of a cliff. At 95.2 771. is a junction with an improved road. Left here 2.7 m. is SEQUIM BAY STATE PARK, an 8+-acre natural park, with towering trees and native shrubbery. Roads wind through the forest to secluded retreats for camping and picnicking. SEQUIM (Ind. quiet waters; pronounced "Skwim"), 100.2 m. (209 alt., 534 pop.), with neat stores, a hotel and other business buildings bordering the wide main street, is the commercial center for the surrounding fertile agricultural area. A quirk of nature leaves Sequim one of the driest towns, as well as one of the sunniest, in western Washington, the annual precipitation averaging only 17 inches, much lighter than that of near-by areas. About 35,000 acres near Sequim are under irrigation. In Sequim is a junction with State 9-F, an improved road. Right here through irrigated farm lands to DUNGENESS, 5.5 m. This pic- turesque fishing village spreads over a point jutting into Juan de Fuca Strait, a short distance east of a long sandy spit. Clumsy-looking power boats, their sterns piled high with traps, ply the coastal waters for crabs. These famed Dungeness crabs, exceptionally fine-flavored and firm in texture, are shipped in cold storage to Midwestern and Eastern cities. The visitor may experience the thrill of catching crabs in a long-handled net, with which he can rake the ocean bottom when the tide is out. Many octopuses, which are canned in com- mercial quantities, are also caught in these waters. The inhabitants of Dungeness are a hardy folk, who have learned to respect the swirling eddies and strong tides of the Strait. In the days of wooden ships and sails many a ship piled up along these shores, and the settlers customarily kept beach fires burning brightly on stormy nights to warn navigators. They also formed a volunteer life-saving corps and pulled their stout boats through the heavy seas to rescue the crews of shipwrecked vessels. Today there is a lighthouse on Dungeness Spit. Section b. SEQUIM to FORKS, 69 m. US 101 Along the route of US 101, due west from Sequim, cultivated fields and substantial farmsteads alternate with wooded plots. On the left are rugged peaks, the northern outposts of the Olympic Mountains. At 11 771., opposite the entrance to the Port Angeles Gun Club, is a junction with a dirt road. Left here 18 m. to DEER PARK (5,411 alt.), a picturesque area on Blue Mountain (6,007 alt.), which is being developed for winter sports, particularly skiing. The Deer Park Lodge provides regular meals, but overn1ght guests must furnish their own bedding. From near-by Blue Mountain Lookout the skier can descend the rolling slopes to OBSTRUCTION POINT, 7 m. Within the radius of a mile from the lodge are more than 15 excellent skiing slopes. The Olympicans of Bremerton stage an annual ski festival at Deer Park. West of the junction the highway follows rolling terrain. At 15 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here 6.5 m. to Heart o' the H1lls, a popular recreational center on
placid Lake Dawn, at the foot of triple-peaked MOUNT ANGELES (6,039 alt.), with its many snowfields and glaciers. Klahane Gardens has nearly 3,000 blooming flowers and shrubs, including 300 varieties of lilies and 100 kinds of heather. Snowbirds, partridges, peacocks, and swans are found in the zoological gardens. A trail leads to the top of Mount Angeles, from which a panorama of bays, inlets, islands, mountains, and the Strait can be seen. To the west is the main divide of the Olympic Mountains. Peak after peak, many yet unnamed, thrusts up lofty pinnacles, deeply cut by cascading streams. The surrounding region is characterized by canyons, deep-cut glaciers, and turbulent streams, whose crystal- clear waters are the home of the gamy rainbow trout. Trails lead to high mountain meadows and close to glaciers. In PORT ANGELES, 16 m. (50 alt., 9,409 pop.), seat of Clallam County, the business section slopes gently to the harbor front, while the residential section lies on bluffs above. Behind these hillside homes rise the snowcapped ridges of the Olympic Mountains. Directly across the Strait, approximately 17 miles in width at this point, is Victoria, British Columbia, on Vancouver Island. A narrow spit of sand, EDIZ HOOK, a curving finger extending into Juan de Fuca Strait, protects the harbor. Industrial plants line the water's edge; coastwise and ocean freighters load and unload at electrically equipped docks. The harbor is the first American port of entry for ships coming into Puget Sound from the Pacific. On Ediz Hook are a Coast Guard A1r Base and Ed1z Hook L1ght- house, built in 1908 to replace an earlier tower dating from 1865. Three pulp and paper mills, a large export lumber mill, and a con- crete-products plant contribute to the commercial importance of Port Angeles. Dairying in the district about the city supports three cream- eries. Clallam County claims the highest record for butter-fat produc- tion per cow of any county in the State. Recorded history of the city goes back to 1791, when Captain Francisco Eliza, exploring for the Viceroy of Mexico, sailed into the harbor behind the sandy claw and found an Indian village. He christened it, eloquently, Porto de Nuestra Senora de Los Angeles (Sp. Port of Our Lady of the Angels). In Port Angeles is a junction with State 9-A, a bituminous-surfaced road. Right 4 m. on State 9-A to a junction with a graveled road; right here 3 m. to ANGELES POINT, a rounded promontory pushing out into the sea. On the west side of the point the broad mouth of the Elwha River empties into the JUAN DE FUCA STRAIT. The origin of the name of this famous inlet of the Pacific has long been a puzzle. Among early explorers, geographers, and map- makers there existed a belief in the "Strait of Anian," a waterway that was thought to stretch between the Atlantic and the Pacific. In a geographical treatise, Hakluytus Posthumus, or Purchas—his Pilgrimages, Michael Lok wrote that an entrance had been discovered by a Greek sailor, Juan de Fuca, whose real name was Apostolos Valerianos. Juan de Fuca told Lok that he had been on a voyage with some Spaniards and had entered this waterway "between 47° and 48° latitude." Captain Charles William Barkley, sailing by in the Imperial Eagle in 1787, records seeing and naming the great opening in the coast after Juan de Fuca. The following year Captain John Meares of the Felice cruised about the entrance. Recalling Michael Lok's story, he also inscribed the
Greek's name on his charts. There is some evidence that Meares had talked with Barkley during the year's interval. West of the junction State 9-A traverses a scrubby, cutover area. TWIN, 17 m. (25 pop.), is a small settlement huddled about the mouth of Twin Rivers. West of Twin the road follows along the Strait. (This road may be taken as an alternate route to the Cape Flattery district). At PYSHT, 34 m. (120 pop.), the main side road connects with another side road leading from US tor. West of Port Angeles US 101 swings southward along the ELWHA RIVER, broadened by a power dam at the north end of its storage basin to the proportions of a lake. At 23.8 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left on this road along the east bank of the Elwha River. Heavily timbered mountains rise on either side of the swiftly flowing stream. Right are the green ridges of the ELWHA RANGE. The river plunges noisily in white cataracts through a canyon, whirling here and there in quiet green eddies. Elwha Forest Camp, 3 m., is an improved camping ground. At the Elwha Ranger Station, 4 m., is a junction with a graveled road: Right here 11 m. on a winding course above steep-walled canyons to Olymp1c Hot Spr1ng: (2,100 alt.), where 21 hot springs gush from the mountains. A hotel and a group of cabins surround a concrete swimming pool. Both mud and mineral baths are available. At 6 m. on the main side road is LAKE MILLS, created by a second dam across the Elwha. The road winds high above the blue-green lake through dank forests festooned with moss. At 13 m. is a junction with a trail: R. on this trail 1.5 m. to Humes Ranch (guides and horses available), the last settlement encountered on the trip up the Elwha Valley, except for an occasional Forest Service station. In a forest of young Douglas fir is L1llian Shelter, 5 m., on the LILLIAN RIVER. At 9 m. on the trail is the northern boundary of the MOUNT OLYMPUS NA- TIONAL MONUMENT. Here, mountains shoulder up from forested river valleys, like a great staircase carved from rock and ice, to the pinnacles of MOUNT OLYMPUS (8,150 alt.). Fifty-three glaciers inch their way down the slopes of the Olympic Range, and from these glacial heights course many rivers. Between the snow fields and sub-alpine forest lie expanses of meadowland, bright with wild columbine, dog- tooth violets, Indian pipes, and other flowers. The lower glens and hollows and the 350,000 acres enclosed within the monument form a veritable wilderness, where elk, deer, bear, cougar, and many smaller animals find sanctuary. Crossing two ridges, each more than 1,500 feet in elevation, the trail comes to Elkhorn Guard Station, 15 m., an improved campground (good fishing). Westward is a magnificent view of the BAILEY RANGE. Past the confluence of the Elwha and Lost Rivers, the trail leaves the Elwha Valley and enters PRESS VALLEY, named in commemoration of the Press Expedition of 1890, sent into this wilderness under the auspices of a pioneer Seattle newspaper. Through growths of small fir, mountain hemlock, larch, and spruce, with occasional patches of wild flowers, the trail ascends to its crossing of the Elwha River, at 25 m., where it skirts the rim of the Elwha Basin (2,700 alt.). Dense forests extend nearly to the basin, then the change to sub- alpine growth is noticeable. The trail turns L. (25 m.), recrosses the narrowed waters of the Elwha, and begins a gradual ascent. Through sub-alpin« timber and over barren slopes of rock, the route twists and winds, passing lakes Mary and Margaret (R), 28 m., and Low Divide Chalet, 29 m. (3,662 alt.). Here the trail connects with another that comes up the North Fork of the Quinault River (see Olympic National Park). West of the junction US 101 affords fleeting glimpses of LAKE SUTHERLAND (fishing, cabins), 28.9 m. (590 alt., 10 pop.), a slipper-shaped body of water in a narrow basin near the foot of
MOUNT STORM KING (4,534 alt.). West of Lake Sutherland the highway winds about precipitous bluffs. At 30.5 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right on this road along the north shore of Lake Crescent to PIEDMONT, 3.2 m. (50 pop.), a beautiful district of summer homes and resorts. Cutting into the side of a cliff, US 101 skirts the south shore of LAKE CRESCENT (boats, fishing), 31.5 m. (579 alt.). Cupped about by steep, forested mountain slopes, the lake's smooth surface reflects an alpine setting that has made it the leading resort center in the northern section of the Olympic Peninsula. Many inns, camps, and cottages border the route around its curving shores. The bottom of the lake, some 600 feet below the surface, is lower than sea level. It is the only known home of the Beardslee trout, noted for its fight- ing qualities; some of these fish weigh as much as 35 pounds. The Storm K1ng Guard Stat1on and a State F1sh Hatchery, 35.3 m., are at the mouth of Barnes Creek; the huge bulk of Mount Storm King, center of a game refuge, rises darkly to the left. To the south and west of Storm King are the peaks of LIZARD HEAD (5,351 alt.), AURORA (4,708 alt.), and SOURDOUGH (4,250 alt.). At the guard station is a junction with a forest trail. Left on this trail through a game refuge and up the slope of Mount Storm King. At 4 m. a promontory looks down on Lake Crescent, tinged in summer with sky-blue and the green of bordering mountain slopes, and silvered by snowy, overhanging peaks from late fall to early spring. Rising almost perpen- dicularly from its north shore is the sharp peak of PYRAMID MOUNTAIN (3,140 alt.). In the rugged region to the south, deer are plentiful. US 101 skirts the base of Aurora Peak. Midway on the lake's south shore is the La Poel Forest Camp and Guard Stat1on (camping facilities), 39.1 m., an improved campground with individual camping spots. The highway passes the end of the lake, 41.2 m., and traverses a narrow, flat valley bounded by abrupt ridges on either side. MOUNT MULLER (3,760 alt.) can be seen from here (R). At 42.8 m. is a junction with a forest road. Left here along the SOLEDUCK RIVER, one of the largest and longest streams on the peninsula, into the upper Soleduck area to Eagle Forest Guard Stat1on, 12 m. The setting is one of rare beauty with many mountain tarns, cataracts, and large streams. Across the Soleduck River from Eagle Guard Station is the SOL DUC HOT SPRINGS, 0.3 m. (1,200 alt., 10 pop.), where a large swimming tank is filled with naturally hot mineralized water. A trail here leads south through the wilds of the Mount Olympus National Monument to the headwaters of the Soleduck River. A branch trail traverses the western slope of the Olympic National Forest along one of its largest streams. An Indian legend relates that two dragons, Sol Due and El<wha, engaged in bitter conflict. As neither could subdue the other, they crept back to their caverns, sealed the entrances, and wept tears of mortification. Their tears form the Sol Duc and Olympic hot springs. West of the junction, a large area of burnt-over land reaches from the road to the crest of steep overhanging mountains. A sign along the way relates that 150,000 acres of virgin timber were burned here in four hours—an impressive fire warning. The Sn1der Ranger
Stat1on and a CCC Camp, 50.2 m., lie along the highway within the SOL DUC PLANTATION, an area set aside for planting new forests. Two million trees were planted between the years 1909 and 1937- SAPPHO (tourist cabins), 58.2 m. (115 alt., 130 pop.), is a Bloedel-Donovan logging camp. Nondescript cottages, lined one against the other in a vast expanse of logged-off lands, provide a startling contrast to the clean immensity of their mountain surroundings and to the swift rush of the Soleduck River, which flows at their doorsteps. In SAPPHO is a junction with State 9A, a graveled road. Right through a barren, logged-off area, State 9-A crosses a low pass and descends along the headwaters of Beaver Creek, traversing an amazingly broken country of small bluffs and deep, crooked gullies. Passing Beaver Lake, a small body of swamp-brown water set in a marshy valley, the road winds into the Pysht River Valley and along the river. Most of the timber has been logged off, but there are still some stands and considerable logging activity in the area. At 9 m. is a junction with a graveled road: Left here to PYSHT (Ind. fish), 5 m. (sea level, 120 pop.), at the mouth of Pysht River. Large log rafts are made up here for shipment to Puget Sound ports. A group of 20 buildings at Pysht was built as headquarters of the Merrill-Ring Logging Company. The ground was laid out and work started on the buildings in 1918. It is believed to be the best-planned logging headquarters in the State. The buildings, built mainly to house single men, are heavy and sturdy. Dining hall, club and recrea- tion hall, theater, school, shops, and a roundhouse are laid out along the curving banks of the Pysht River, where logging railroads converge. On the main side road, which penetrates a logged-off area with a few patches of second-growth timber, is CLALLAM BAY, 15.2 m. (15 alt., 200 pop.), with a hotel, store, a few weathered buildings, and a long dock. West of Clallam Bay the road follows along the Strait. Across the Strait Vancouver Island ap- pears, a blue mist in the distance. At 16.5 m. is a junction with a dirt road: Right 0.2 m. to SEKIU, on the edge of a small, wide-mouthed bay. This village is a make-up point for Bloedel- Donovan log rafts. A dump pier extends far into the water to facilitate making up the log booms. At 18.7 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Bordered by dense timber, the road skirts the small and picturesque Hoko River on a steadily- ascending grade; occasional openings cut into the forest are occupied by pros- perous-looking farms. At 18.3 m. is a junction with a dirt road: Right here to SWAN BAY, a small inlet on LAKE OZETTE, 19.5 m., which stretches its length into the forest wilderness. Relatively undeveloped as a resort center, the lake retains most of its original wild beauty. OZETTE (campgrounds), 20 m., is situated on a creek flowing out of the lake. North of the junction the main side road traverses the north side of a valley marked by pastures and dairy farms. The route affords a sweeping view of the broad Strait, where huge waves driven by westerly winds from the Pacific Ocean roll through the passage. The highway crosses the boundary of the MAKAH INDIAN RESERVATION, 30.7 m. The Waadah Po1nt Coast Guard Stat1on, 32.5 m., stands on the shore of the Strait. During the spring, summer, and autumn the personnel is kept busy watching out for fishing boats and vessels in Neah Bay. NEAH BAY, 33.7 m. (10 alt., 550 pop.), headquarters of the reservation, was known to early settlers as Poverty Cove. It occupies a crescent-shaped flat at the foot of wooded and logged-off ridges in a sheltered bay in the let of Cape Flattery. Extending into the bay are two long slips, to which are tied dozens of fish boats and houseboats. On May 29, 1791, the Spanish frigate Princeta landed here, with the first settlers to touch the soil of what is now the State of Washington. The colonists,
coming from San Bias, Mexico, headed by Lieutenant Fidalgo, were ordered by the expedition leader, Bodega y Quadra, to "establish a small battery on the mainland, respectable fortifications, provisional barracks for the sick, a bakery and oven, and a blacksmith shop, and to cut down all trees within musket shot." The place was called Bahia Nunez Gaorta in honor of an archbishop of Mexico. In five months, the establishment was abandoned. Documents, including letters to the Viceroy of Spain, the diary of the second mate of the Princesa, and a model of the ship are preserved in the collection of J. S. Whiting and A. J. Petite, of Seattle. Brick and tile used by these Spanish builders are occasionally found in the vicinity. Some are on display at the Washington State Historical Society's museum in Tacoma. The early settlement at Neah Bay was fostered by Samuel Hancock, a wagon maker who was engaged to come West with a pioneer wagon train, in or about 1845. He arrived at Newmarket, now Tumwater (see Tour %d), about 1847 and moved north to Neah Bay about 1851. Here he built the first trading post and a warehouse for storing and shipping whale oil brought to him by the natives. Neah Bay is the headquarters of the MAKAH INDIAN RESERVATION. The Makah (Ind. cape people) are the last of a warlike tribe, a branch of the Nootka, whose chief abode is on the outer side of Vancouver Island, and more closely connected with the culture of southeastern Alaska than with that of other Washington Indians. The Makah once excelled in the art of canoe making, their finished canoes ranging from the shovel-nose dugout, used in ascending shallow streams and capable of carrying one or two persons, to the ocean-going whaling canoe. In great canoes, the Makah once braved the dangers of crashing surf and ocean. A harpoon or spear with detachable head was thrown at the whale. Attached to each harpoon was a stout rope about 20 feet in length (made from cedar bark chewed by Indian women) with a float attached, usually an inflated seal bladder. When close enough for the first thrust, the harpooner threw his barbed weapon, aiming just above the huge flipper of the exposed side. The float was thrown overboard, as the oarsman back-watered to avoid the lashing tail and pounding fins of the whale. Floats prevented the whale from diving too deep and assisted the canoeman in tracing his course. When the animal came up to breathe, another spear was thrown. In this manner several floats were attached; the whale, unable to dive, was killed and towed ashore. Often as many as eight days were consumed in beaching the carcass. Chunks of blubber were cut from the carcass until the tenderloin lay exposed, and on this flesh the Indians feasted. Much meat was smoked and salted for future use. From Neah Bay a trail leads L. to CAPE FLATTERY, 5 m., where diminu- tive, rockbound TATOOSH ISLAND lies one-half mile off the Washington Coast, at the entrance to the Strait. A lighthouse and meteorological station here have served navigators of surrounding waters for many years. Captain John Meares named the island in 1788. In 1857, a lighthouse was built on the island to warn vessels from the dangerous rocks that menaced the entrance to the Strait. Today, 12 families are stationed on the island. There are no wharves, and rock cliffs drop perpendicularly into the sea. The weekly mail and supplies are lifted from the boat by an overhanging crane. Besides a naval station on the island there is also a school and post office. The impossibility of landing or delivering supplies during heavy weather makes it advisable to carry six-months' supplies on this insular dot During the fall, the sea in the vicinity is alive with fishing vessels. In October 1939, the light keeper counted 436 trolling boats within a radius of five miles. South of the junction US 101 follows the Soleduck River through an area of burned-over lands. BEAVER, 61.2 m. (400 alt, 50 pop.), a remnant of a former logging camp, is the site of the Lake Tyee Forest Camp (R). In Beaver is a junction with a dirt road. Right here 0.2 m., to LAKE TYEE (fishing).
At 67.5 m. is a junction with State 9-B, a graveled road. Right on this road through stump lands and a heavily forested region of large cedars and firs. Supplemented by "gyppo" outfits (small crews of men sub- contracting certain portions of the job), the work of cutting this great timber goes forward under the direction of the contractor. Loosing with a "sky-line" outfit entails expensive preparations, warranted only in large tracts of timber. First, two "spar trees" are selected, one at the pole deck (point of loading), and the other near the far side of the tract. A "high-rigger" climbs to the top of the tree to be felled, by looping his belt around the trunk and driving his spurs into the heavy bark, and then descends, stripping the tall, straight trunk of its branches as he goes. At a point 120 to 150 feet from the ground, he chops or saws away until the top slowly leans over, falls away, and tumbles to the ground, leaving the bare pole swaying. The rigger clings to it as it whips about. Great care must be exercised in the use of the ax as a miss would sever the safety belt. The great cable is then suspended between the two spar trees, near the tops. Upon this aerial, or highline, is a huge block that acts as a trolley for the several cables suspended from it and the logs, or trees, being hauled to the pole deck. When the donkey engine begins to wind up the main line, the log is raised until it is suspended in mid-air, then drawn on to the pole deck. Tractors are coming more and more into use in modern logging. At 2.8 m. on the main side road is a junction with a graveled road. Left here the dirt road winds through dank forests, where giant firs and cedars in heavy underbrush narrow the road until it seems a shadowed ditch, walled in by high green banks. At 7 s7. is a junction with another graveled road: Right here 0.2 m. is the Soleduck R1ver Br1dge. A few hundred feet left of the bridge, the Soleduck and the Bogachiel Rivers converge to form a great pool 50 feet deep and perhaps 200 feet in diameter. From this confluence is formd "The river without a head"—the Quillayute (Ind.), only six miles long. At 4 m. on this graveled road is MORA (sea level, 50 pop.), a fishing village at the mouth of the river. The main side road crosses the QUILLAYUTE RIVER, 8.2 m., and enters the QUILLAYUTE INDIAN RESERVATION, 11.8 m. At LA PUSH, 13 m. (sea level, 270 pop.), on the sea coast, a Coast Guard Stat1on overlooks the village and the mouth of the river. In the town, cottages range raggedly about the old Shaker Church, built in 1880 and still in good repair. For a small sum the Indians will take a visitor for a canoe ride through the surf. This port, the only shelter between Cape Flattery and Grays Harbor, is noted along the coast for fishing activities. During the season, tenders come into the Quillayute estuary two and three times a week. Where the long beach at La Push slopes down to the Pacific, surf breaks against giant rocks. One of these, JAMES ISLAND (183 alt.), with several acres of brush and trees on its summit, stands at the mouth of the Quillayute River and may be reached over the sand beach at low tide. Numerous smaller, wooded islands lie immediately north of it, on the edge of the heavily forested Quillayute River Valley. THE NEEDLES, a series of jagged rocks, extend for more than a mile out into the ocean (L). A few picnic tables on the beach at La Push are most in use during the annual first of July celebration, when the Quillayute join with the Queet, Quinault, and Hoh tribes to commemorate the signing of their treaty with the United States in 1885. Besides the water sports in which these Indians excel, native games and dances are performed. Basket weaving, to supply the tourist trade, has reached a high degree of craftsmanship among the women of the village. Baskets range in size and shape from those no bigger than a dollar to models shaped like cedar chests. The men of the village build their houses, carve seaworthy canoes with attractively hand-carved prows, make and mend their fish-nets, and do the fishing. The legends of the Quillayute, filled with the exploits of the Thunderbird and other mythical characters, still live in La Push. Around the home fires old warriors tell how the oldest of five brothers helped the Great Man of the
West to get his wife back, so that the tribe could have salmonberries all the year around. They tell of the adventures of the brother, who was a great whale hunter, and of his girl-bride, Thrush. At 69 m. US 101 enters FORKS (375 alt., 600 pop.), a thriving little logging town near the forks of three rivers, the Calawah, the Bogachiel, and the Soleduck. In marked contrast to the surrounding wilderness and the generally ramshackle air of many small logging settlements, the town is well planned and presents a neat appearance. Modern stores border the main street, where mackinaw-shirted loggers scrape their calked boots along the concrete walks. The town has a weekly paper. A creamery and sawmill supplement logging, its major industry. Section c. FORKS to ABERDEEN, 117.5 m. US 101 South of FORKS, 0 m., US 101 again enters the deep forest. At a bridge spanning the BOGACHIEL RIVER, 5.7 m., is a junction with a graveled road. Left here 1 m. to BOGACHIEL STATE PARK, a uo-acre tract of woodland with a picnicking and camping area along the river. A trail here follows the stream to its headwaters. South of the junction the highway swings westward and descends through a heavily wooded area. At 12.2 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here through a vast area that drains the western slopes of Mount Olympus. Roughly paralleling the winding course of the Hoh River, the graveled side road enters sections of the Olympic National Forest. Numerous swift-running streams offer good fishing along the route, which ends at a Forest Guard Station, 17 m. The main road swings westerly along the course of the broad Hoh River, frequently following closely upon its wooded banks. At 22.2 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right here over a 400-foot suspension bridge spanning the Hoh River. The side road continues over frequent small bridges through the low country that borders the now smoothly flowing stream. In the HOH INDIAN RESERVA- TION, 3 m., the road ends at the river's mouth on the ocean beach. Offshore, on either side of the river channel, are two huge rocks, subjects of an Indian legend. It is said that before human beings came into the world the Great Changer asked Raven and Crow, two animal people, if they would like to have human people come on earth. "No," they said, "human people would make so much smoke we could not see." Thereupon the Great Changer told them a race of human beings would come anyway, and asked what animals they would like to be turned into in order to meet the new conditions. "Then we would not like to be any animals at all," they answered: "neither bear, elk, or deer; let us be turned into rocks." So there they stand today, the north and south rocks at the mouth of the river. West of the junction, US 101 skirts the shoreline of the Pacific. A rhythmical sweep of water rolls up the broad beach, breaking into foaming crests and spuming into small, rocky inlets. At RUBY BEACH, 34.5 m. a store, service station, and cabin camp are perched on cliffs above the rumbling surf. Here and there
a break in the trees affords a glimpse of white foam flying against the rocky embankment. A trail leads down the bluff 300 yards to the beach. Here huge rocks stand like stone pillars against the sea. Drifting logs and broken trees are ground to bits in the surge of breakers. OCEAN VIEW STATE PARK (picnic facilities), 41 m., is situated on a bluff, where a turnout affords a wide view of the Pacific. To the north a succession of bold promontories reaches into the sea. Westward is DESTRUCTION ISLAND, about four and a half miles offshore, grim and forbidding as a fortress. In 1775, the Spanish explorer Bruno Heceta, having suffered the loss of a small boat's crew in an Indian attack at Point Grenville to the south (see below), named the island Isla de Dolores (Sp. Island of Sorrows). In 1787 Captain Charles W. Barkley commanding the East Indian Company's ship Imperial Eagle, had a similar experience at the Hoh River, which he named Destruction River. Later the name Destruction was trans- ferred to the Island, and the river was given the name of the Indians who lived along it. Destruction Island is the nesting ground of some 10,000 horn-billed auklets, small migratory cousins of the celebrated great auk. Not unlike the penguin, they wear dress clothes of formal black or brownish black with a "boiled front" of smoke gray, which extends down the flank. These birds, whose range is the entire Pacific coast, arrive during April and either use their old nest or dig into a hillside to make a new one. Their arrival is marked by a noisy shrieking. They are con- sidered very good eating by the Indians, who occasionally brave the surf to snatch an auklet for dinner during the nesting season. The beach, about 100 feet below the bluff, is easily reached by trail from this point. KALALOCH, 42.3 m. (60 alt., 76 pop.), is a cabin-camp point on Kalaloch Creek, with a store, filling station, post office, and two hotels. The village is noted for the trout, starfish, mussels, sea anemones, and other salt-water specimens found along the shore. Ducks, hell-divers, and loons dive in pursuit of their prey; gulls plunge in spirals upon any fish or bit of food appearing on the surface. Clams especially appeal to the gulls. Picking one up from the beach, the hungry gull ascends, drops the clam unerringly upon a rock, then dives to eat the contents. Agates, moonstones, and oddly shaped bits of driftwood attract souvenir hunters. A short distance by trail (R) along the beach from Kalaloch is BROWN'S POINT. Here a series of jagged rocks is habitat of the piddock, or boring clam, which has a rare and delicate flavor, easily detectable in soup. When the surf is favorable and the tide reasonably low, seekers for this unusual sea food chop away at the rock with miners' picks. At 46 m. US 101 crosses a boundary of the QUINAULT INDIAN RESERVATION. QUEETS, 47.6 m. (18 alt., 60 pop.), on a tiny inlet at the mouth of the Queers River, is the home of a handful of Indians, remnant of
a once powerful Quiatso tribe. They live by fishing and the fashioning of souvenirs. An interesting collection of Indian artifacts may be seen at the village service station. Near the cabin camp is a hewn-log school- house, built about 1914. At 52.8 rn. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here 3 m. along the Clearwater River to CLEARWATER STATE PARK (picnic and camping facilities) (135 alt.). Right from the park a rough, unimproved road follows the river to the Olympic National Forest Elk herds are often seen in this region. At 55.2 rn. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here 11 m. to Kelly's Dude Ranch (horses for trail trips; expert guides), in a setting of forest and mountains on the Queets River. Southeast of the junction, US IOI skirts the northern boundary of the Quinault Indian Reservation and penetrates one of the largest known stands of western red cedar. The trees rise to great heights in a forest darkened by old spruce and hemlock, festooned with hang- ing moss. At 71.7 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here 3.5 m. along the north shore of Lake Quinault to Muncaster Forest Camp (camping facilities), on the lake shore. July Creek Camp, at 3.5 m., is a shady grove overlooking the lake and mouth of July Creek. The Quinault River, which flows into the lake, at its northern end, forms a delta with sloughs on either side. Leaving the lake, the road follows the course of the Quinault River north fork through the wild, uninhabited recesses of the Olympic National Forest. At the North Fork Guard Stat1on, 25 m., a Forest Service camp marks the end of the road. Left by trail here 2 m. along the north fork of the Quinault, past its con- fluence with Rustler Creek to Halfway House (hotel accommodations by reserva- tion). Left here 5 m. by trail over broken, heavily forested hills to FRANCIS Creek Shelter. At 10 m. KURTZ LAKE is glimpsed remotely through the forest. Three Prune Camp, 11 m., commemorates the experience of a party of mountaineers who, after failing to connect with their supply pack train, had three dried prunes each for dinner. The trail crosses a boundary of OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST at 15 m. and follows the mile-high SKYLINE—QUEETS TRAIL over the ridges toward MOUNT KIMTA, 18 m. (5,200 alt.). Pre- cipitous slopes drop from the trail into the Queets Valley. Here MOUNT OLYMPUS, with its array of jagged peaks, stands in full view. Eastward (R) is spread the Quinault River Valley, with snow-clad summits beyond. The trail plunges down 1,000 feet to Cold Spr1ngs Camp, 19 m., and follows Promise Creek (L) to its confluence with the Quinault River. On the bank of the river is S1xteen M1le Shelter, 26.5 m. The trail continues through ELK PARK, 27 m., and with steep ascent parallels the Quinault River; rounding MOUNT CHRISTIE (R), 29 m., it passes Low D1v1de Chalet (hotel accommodations by reservation), at 30.5 m. East of the junction US 101 skirts the south end of Quinault Lake. AMANDA PARK, 72.4 m., is a small settlement a few hundred yards from the lake, which is blocked from view here by a dense forest. QUINAULT LAKE, 73.1 m. (300 alt.), is Indian property, situated in a recreational area of great beauty. (Fishing permits obtained from Indian Agent at Hoquiam, or from Quinault Mercantile Company at Quinault Lake. Season from May 15 to July 15). The Quinault
Indians have lived for centuries at Taholah, at the mouth of the river. At 73.8 m. is a junction with a gravel-surfaced road. Left here along the south shore of Lake Quinault past resorts and summer homes built among great spruce trees. (Hotel, cabins, horses, boats, guides). At 1.4 m. a long brown and white three-story hotel overlooks the lake, from the southern end of which the Quinault River flows westward to Taholah, on the ocean beach. Indian canoemen take passengers down the river to Taholah, a thrilling seven-hour journey through black and white water. On the return trip up river, outboard motors are used. An annual trout derby is conducted here by the local Poggie Club on Memorial Day, when Indians stage a water carnival. A post office, several stores, garages, restaurants, comfortable cabin camps, and resorts dot the lake's shores. From here, guides lead hikers along wilderness trails to glacial peaks, waterfalls, elk country, and hunting areas and fishing spots. At 1.6 m. on the graveled road is Falls Creek Nat1onal Forest Camp, where the United States Department of Fisheries operates a hatchery (visitors welcome). A forest ranger station and forest camp are situated near the mouth of the creek. A trail leads R. through tall timber, dense undergrowth, and a profusion of wild flowers and shrubs. Luxuriant mosses, lichens, and sword- ferns spread on every hand. A fir tree by the trail, more than 30 feet in cir- cumference at the base and more than 500 years old, is a typical specimen of many trees found in this region. Continu1ng the climb the trail passes through a tunnel cut in a large fallen Douglas fir tree. Waterfalls are heard at many points along the trail; a few are seen. Following the canyon of Willaby Creek, which it crosses over a rustic bridge, the trail continues through jungles of forest growths and along steep rock walls. Dropping to the side of the stream, it breaks out into the sunlight near W1llaby Camp, 4 m. Northeast of the camp the trail continues to GRAVES CREEK, 18 m., and ends at 20 m. From Lake Quinault the highway swings southward through a sparsely settled area of forest land and enters the QUINAULT NATURAL AREA, 73.7 m. A few small logging outfits operate here, and vigilance must be maintained for loaded trucks turning into the highway from obscure roads. At HUMPTULIPS (Ind. hard to pole,) 90.1 m. (130 alt., 100 pop.), center of a small farming community, a few unpainted frame buildings stand on a bench above the Humptulips River. Humptulips was the logging outlet for the famous "21-9" (township 21, range 9) stand of Douglas fir, the greatest in the Northwest. Towering timber stood so dense that trees had to be felled in the same direction for lack of space. In one of the Humptulips saloons of that time, a gar- rulous foreman boasted: "Give me enough snoose and Swedes and I'll log 21-9 like it was a hayfield, dump the toothpicks into the south fork and ride 'em to tidewater like they was rocking horses." At 108.5 m. is a junction with State 9-C, a gravel-surfaced road. Right here on a loop route along the ocean front. At COPALIS CROSSING, 9.5 m. (73 alt., 160 pop.), State 9C divides into two branches. Left (west) here to COPALIS, 15.3 m. (15 alt., 400 pop.), a resort on the ocean beach (swimming, surf-board riding, hiking). Clams are present in abundance along the beach, and digging them is a favorite sport for both residents and visitors. The Copalis River flows through the town into the Pacific at this point. Left from Copalis Beach on an unnamed graveled road along the ocean front to OCEAN CITY, 3 m. Crab catching is a popular sport here. Shallow lagoons are left in the sand by the retreating tide, and the crab hunters, armed with rakes, wade about in the shallows, poking about prospectively and peering
anxiously for some sign of the crab, who is usually hidden just under the sand. North of Copalis, the west branch of State 9-C follows the shoreline through several small oceanside resorts to PACIFIC BEACH (modern hotel, cabin camps, garages, service station, cafes, and stores), 22.8 m. In Pacific Beach is a junction with a graveled road. Right on this road, which hugs the coastline, to SUNSET BEACH, 1 m., the home of workers employed in the shingle mill at Moclips. Summer cottages and cabins line the shore. MOCLIPS, 1.8 m. (sea level, 300 pop.), is a busy little settlement, supported largely by its shingle mill. The Moclips High School serves the oceanside region north of Grays Harbor, and its gymnasium is used for community gatherings. On the northern outskirts is the Mocl1ps F1re Observatory (open), atop a 175- foot fir tree. North along the beach from Moclips is POINT GRENVILLE, 7.8 m., a high promontory jutting out into the Pacific and offering an excellent view. It was here that Bruno Heceta, in command of the Santiago, and Bodega y Quadra, commander of the Sonora, landed in 1775. Here, also, several of their seamen were ambushed by Indians and massacred. The hulk of the French barque Ernest Reyer, cast upon the beach near the turn of the century, is visible at extreme low tide near the mouth of the Quinault River. TAHOLAH, 10.3 m. (sea level, 450 pop.), an Indian village, is agency head- quarters for the QUINAULT INDIAN RESERVATION. The tribe is a branch of the Salishan, as are all coastal tribes except the Makah. The reservation comprises nearly 110,000 acres of virgin timber, providing grants of 80 acres to each tribesman, including those with as little as one-eighth Indian blood. Treaty negotiations with the Quinault required many years, and, although the pact was signed on July 1, 1855, the reservation was not established until November 4, 1873, when the treaty was signed by President Grant. In Pacific Beach, State 9-C loops southeast through a logged-off area that is slowly being converted into a district of small farms. Some of the prospective farmers, while they laboriously clear the stumps from the fields, live in weather-beaten frame houses built during the days when the area boomed with the activity of logging camps. ALOHA, 24 m. (50 alt., 200 pop.), recalls some of the robustness of the in- tensive logging days. A small shingle mill employs most of the population. In CARLISLE, 28 m. (76 alt., 75 pop.), a ghost logging town, forlorn cottages line both sides of the road, mingling with weather-beaten business buildings and mill structures that hang on in anticipation of a lumbering revival. At 37 m. the route returns to the junction of State 9-C and US 101. South of the junction US 101 traverses a rolling region, logged-off, burned-over, and desolate. New growth is beginning to cover the logged-off areas. At POLSON STATE PARK, 110.5 m., the State is converting a 310-acre stand of timber into a recreation area. HOQUIAM, 113 m. (300 alt., 10,835 pop.), ABERDEEN, 117.5 m. (365 alt., 18,846 pop.) (see Aberdeen-Hoquiam). Hoquiam and Aberdeen are at a junction with US 410 (see Tour 2d). Section d. ABERDEEN to MEGLER, US 101, 84 m. South of Aberdeen, US 101 cuts through a forested area to the meandering shore lines of Willapa Bay, home of the Pacific Oyster industry, a region of quiet lagoons and great oyster flats, redolent at low tide with pungent marsh grass and drying seaweed. Entering a wooded section, the highway comes out upon a long stretch of ocean beach, where a side road leads through a scattering of gay seaside resorts, and graying hamlets, remnants of Washington's earliest pioneer-
ing. Continuing southward, US 101 emerges at the mouth of the broad Columbia, where a ferry connects with Astoria, Oregon. In ABERDEEN-HOQUIAM, 0 m., US 101 swings southward across the steel and concrete Chehalis River bridge to a junction with State 13-A, an oiled gravel-surfaced road. Right on State 13-A, which parallels the south shore of Grays Harbor, one of the world's greatest lumber-shipping ports. On the broad surface of the bay, lumber schooners, fish boats, and log booms move slowly against the background of the Aberdeen-Hoquiam industrial water front. On CHARLIE CREEK, 3.8 m., is the Beachway R1d1ng Club, where saddle horses may be rented for jaunts down the shore or through the country. Close-cropped meadow lands, dropping occasionally to marshes, border the ever-widening water boundaries of the harbor. MARKHAM, 12 m. (10 alt., 260 pop.), long dependent upon a small shingle mill, has benefited in recent years from development of a large oyster bed. An oyster cannery now furnishes seasonal employment to residents of the com- munity. At OCOSTA, 15 m. (6 alt., 157 pop.), an attractive group of modern school buildings serves a scattered community. In the nineties the Northern Pacific Railway boomed the site as its railway terminus on Grays Harbor. Lots were sold and buildings were erected, but shortly afterward, the railroad switched its terminal to Aberdeen, and the town lapsed into obscurity. On a bare, uninhabited flat near the beach, State 13-A passes between two leaning old buildings, the last remnants of the old town. BAY CITY, 17 m. (sea level, 30 pop.), a scattered little community on South Bay, was for many years the site of a whaling station, where the rendering of whale oil and blubber, and sundry dissections of the world's largest mammal, treated passing motorists to an unforgettable olfactory experience. West of Bay City, the highway crosses a long, curving wooden bridge over the flats of the Elk River Slough, beginning of the midsection of a canal that will extend south from Puget Sound at Olympia, on Budd's Inlet, to connect with the Columbia River by an inland water route. Commencing at Olympia, the first section will run westward to Grays Harbor; thence south from South Bay to the north side of Willapa Bay near Tokeland (see below). At COHASSET, 20 m. (sea level, 30 pop.), a summer oceanside resort (beach cottages and cabins), is a junction of State 13-A and another oiled gravel-surfaced road. Right on this road to WESTPORT, 2 re. (sea level, 272 pop.), on a sandy arm tipped by Point Chehalis, which bounds Grays Harbor on the southwest. Its wide, wind-swept street is bordered on one side by small store buildings. Modest cottages and summer homes are shaded by great fir and pine trees. The town looks down upon a sheltered cove, the harbor for a crab and salmon-fishing fleet of 200 boats. Ducks and geese are numerous along the saltwater marshes. A gravel-surfaced road leads north from the end of Westporr/s main street to the port entrance and Coast Guard Base. The site was named Peterson's Point for Glenn Peterson, first settler in 1858, but with the growth of the settle- ment the name was changed to Westport. Established here in 1860 for the pro- tection of white settlers was Old Fort Chehalis, long since in ruins. A tablet erected on the site commemorates the services of Company A, 4th United States infantry, occupants of the fort in early days. The first school in the county was established here in the late fifties. At Damon's Point, Government engineers are pushing a jetty into the ocean, to prevent the blocking of the harbor channel. Wastes of powdery sand stretch away on every side, sloping down to a smooth, hard floor that disappears under a thundering surf. A low white lighthouse looms dimly, and the intermittent wail of a fog horn comes through the mist that seems ever present. South of Cohasset the road, concrete-paved from this point, borders the ocean. Deep clumps of heavy fir grow close to the ground, their tops blown flat by ocean gales. GRAYLAND, 24 m. (sea level, 250 pop.), is a village of Finnish cranberry
growers. In the neighborhood are more than 100 cranberry bogs. One block (L) from the highway is a long street bordered with neat, well-painted houses, each set trimly at the edge of its own rectangular cranberry field. Narrow-gauge tracks run down the center of the field, carrying spraying apparatus and fer- tilizer. The plants, tiny green and pink rosettes, are wedged tightly together; in the autumn they take on a crimson tint. Cranberry plants require four years to mature and must be sprayed at least ten times each year; as no part of the field may be trod on during cultivation, spraying becomes a rather arduous task. In picking the berries, a pronged scoop is used, which strips the little plants clean without injuring them. Each planter handles his crop without hired help. The Finns, marketing the berries through a co-operative, have little difficulty in disposing of their entire crop. Unlike the stump-ranching communities, nothing is ramshackle or rambling in Grayland; there are no broken fences, hanging gates, straying cattle, or other irregularities; fresh paint and shining windows are the rule in the village. The Finns credit their good health to the Finnish steam bath; some supplement the bath by beating their bodies with cedar boughs to aid blood circulation. Midsummer Day, the twenty-fourth of June, is celebrated with bonfires, folk dancing, and other outdoor exercises. Native costumes are worn at the festivi- ties, which usually last all night. South of Grayland, the road closely borders the ocean beach. Dunes of fine gray sand shift continually along the flat shoreline, restrained only by the rambling sand verbena, whose vining stalks, rubbery leaves, and small yellow blossoms stubbornly resist the wind. Here and there a fresh drift engulfs the brushy growth along the shore. Occasional clumps of stubby, gale-bent trees, gray with lichen, cling tenaciously to the land's edge, as though conscious that this is their last grip on the North American Continent—westward there is no soil for 5,000 miles. From the outer rim of the beach the traveler's gaze into space is interrupted only by the funnels of an occasional ship, reminding him in passing that the earth is a globe. At NORTH COVE, 31 m. (sea level, 75 pop.), are Coast Guard and Life Saving stations and the Willapa Bay Lighthouse. During the summer, vaca- tionists enjoy the Cove's sandy beach and sheltered waters. Adjoining is the SHOALWATER INDIAN RESERVATION, known locally as the Georgetown Reservation, after the George family of Indians. It skirts an indentation on the north shore of Willapa Bay and is a popular summer fishing ground for the Shoalwater and Quinault Indians. Leaving North Cove, the gravel road continues to TOKELAND, 36 m. (sea level, 89 pop.), named for Chief Toke. Today it is the headquarters of a crab- fishing fleet and, because of its broad sandy beach and protected waters, a favored summer resort. South of the junction US 101 bears away from the harbor toward COSMOPOLIS, 2.3 m. (9 alt., 1,207 pop.). Here a collection of old frame dwellings, many of them vacant, shows the harsh effects of the decline of lumbering in the region. Fittingly enough, the inhabitants of Cosmopolis are mostly millworkers of many nationalites. The town was one of the first sawmill centers established in the Grays Harbor district. At 7.3 m. is a junction with State 9, which leads to Montesano (see Tour 2d). ARTIC, 8.5 m. (104 alt., 267 pop.), is a small set- tlement represented on the highway by a store and service station. The story of its naming may serve as a lesson to scrawly writers and hasty readers. Its founder named the settlement for his wife, Arta, but, when application for a post office reached Washington, the carelessly written final "a" was read as "ic". Hence Artic, a simplified form of
"arctic," became the name of the town, and Arta, the wife, is not memorialized. The highway bridges the NORTH RIVER, 9 m., a tumultuous stream that flows with many twists and turns through a wild, unset- tled country. RAYMOND, at 24.5 m. (11 alt., 4,045 pop.), is a lively and independent little town on the estuary of the Willapa River. It derives its prosperity from lumber manufacture, oyster culture, and shipping; and the ups and downs of the lumber industry are markedly reflected in Raymond. In 1861, the schooner Willamette with its master and owner, Cap- tain John Vail, was wrecked at the harbor entrance. Bearing no grudge for so costly an introduction to these shores, Vail homesteaded a claim on the present townsite. After his death his widow married John Adams, builder of the first sawmill in the Willapa Harbor. In 1895 the Northern Pacific Railway extended lines through the little settlement, but not until 1904 was a plat filed. The town was named for L. V. Raymond, the first postmaster. The original business district straddled the odorous tide flats on "sea legs." Its narrow wooden sidewalks and roughly planked streets swarmed with reveling loggers on Saturday nights. The town grew rapidly with the expanding lumber industry, and in 1912 an enlarged city was planned, and dredging and filling were started. Then came one of the periodic slumps; lumber and shingle exports fell away, and Raymond's bubble burst. The depressed conditions resulted also in unemployment and economic distress. During this troubled time, mem- bers of the I.W.W. were driven from the city by a vigilante "pick- handle brigade." By 1915, however, prosperity returned, and the expan- sion of the lumber market resulted in the enlargement of the lumber plants; at the same time a branch of the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad was completed, making new markets accessible to the wood-products industry. Many new logging camps were opened up; and during the First World War ten wooden freighters were launched from a hastily built shipyard. Controversy between lumber operators and workers over hours, wages, and conditions threatened to curtail production at a time when lumber was acutely needed. After several companies of the United States Army's Spruce Division had been stationed in Raymond, the crisis passed. Working conditions were considerably improved, and several sawmills began to operate. The town's population soared to nearly 7,000. During the twenties, disastrous fires reduced the number of saw- mills, and population again dwindled; but new impetus was given the town by the dredging of the Willapa River channel and reclamation of the tideflat area. Ocean-borne trade was thus made possible, and the town itself had space for expansion of business and residential districts. The Weyerhaeuser Timber Company made available great areas of virgin timber, on which the mills could feed. Today the majority of the loggers and sawmill workers are organized in the A. F. of L. and C. I. O. Approximately 120,000,000 board feet of lumber are manu-
factured in Raymond annually; and an estimated 30,000,000,000 feet of timber remain in the region. Raymond's Publ1c L1brary (open 1-6; 7-0 weekdays), 6th and Duryea Sts., an attractive two-story frame building of gray shakes, houses a collection of 12,000 volumes. Windows in the adult reading room are fitted with art-glass panes reproducing old English book- plates, and in the children's room similar panes depict old nursery rhymes. The west-wing basement has a 200-seat auditorium, with stage lighting system and independent entrances to facilitate dramatic presentations. The red buildings of the W1llapa Harbor Lumber M1lls (open by arrangement), foot of Ellis St., sprawl under great belching smoke- stacks. Behind them a healthy forest of second-growth fir spreads over a hillside. In Raymond, on 3rd Street, is a junction with State 12 (see Tour 8d). Leaving Raymond, US 101 parallels the deeply dredged Willapa. At the southern outskirts, on a sheltered portion of the river, is the PORT OF WILLAPA HARBOR, where are numerous warehouses, docks, derricks, and other shipping facilities. Ocean-bound freighters may be seen loading lumber at the port. Here the Willapa flows through a channel at the foot of a great hill. The channel is not visible from the highway, and it is a startling sight to behold an incoming ocean freighter riding high and apparently pushing its way on dry land around the base of a small mountain. SOUTH BEND, 28.8 m. (11 alt., 1,771 pop.), entered from the east on Water St., is the seat of Pacific County and a lumber and shingle-manufacturing center. Proximity to the great oyster-growing beds of Willapa Harbor has made oyster canning an important industry. The stores and dwellings of the town, built on a narrow shelf between the hills and the river, are crowded close to the principal street and highway for a distance of nearly two miles. An annual event is the Water Carnival, held on the Willapa River each Labor Day. In the sixties and seventies, South Bend was the metropolis of the County and a key point in the water and stagecoach transportation system of Washington Territory. Many quaint buildings, ornamented with scrollwork and filigree and crowned with cupolas, reflect this early-day glory. The old-fashioned, silver-domed Courthouse on Vine Street, in a carefully landscaped park overlooking the city, recalls the days when the streets echoed the soft clop-clop of horses' hoofs and the quiet rattle of buggy wheels. South Bend's first school (1875) is remembered for the novel method of instruction employed by the first teacher, John Dodge, an elderly man with long gray hair and flowing beard. Dodge insisted on teach- ing his pupils the alphabet by singing it to them. Lewis R. Williams in Our Pacific County states that "it took beginners about two years to learn it under his system, and although many of his pupils were sixteen and seventeen years old, he made it plain they were not old enough,
nor sufficiently advanced, to take up the study of English grammar!" The pastoral calm of the little settlement was greatly disturbed in 1892, when the town won the county seat from Oysterville, a rival across the bay. After a heated argument over the elections, during which the opposing town refused to give up the county records, a body of South Bend citizens appeared suddenly in Oysterville, one Sunday morning in February 1893, and departed unceremoniously with books and records. In 1895, the Northern Pacific Railroad tapped the rich timberland adjacent to South Bend, and a period of swift expansion began. Pro- moters built a turreted 400-room hotel on the crest of the highest hill; opened it with a grand ball and riotous celebration; but closed it immediately afterward, without its ever having sheltered a paying guest. The real-estate schemes of the period were similarly deflated, but they did succeed in attracting many settlers. Lumber, shellfish, and improved transportation facilities aided in stabilizing the town, which became the political center of the region. US 101 leaves South Bend to swing around the palisades of Willapa Harbor on a picturesque route. Flats alternate with winding inclines over timbered headlands, where the road runs through gaps of red earth lined with varicolored strata. On the flats between headlands are marshy meadows, some diked and converted into lush fields where cattle graze. At 39.2 m. is a junction with an improved road. Right on this road is the village of BAY CENTER, 2 m. (sea level, 200 pop.), with its large oyster cannery and shell-crushing plant. The first discovery of oysters on the Pacific Coast was made between 1849 and 1851 at Shoalwater Bay, now known as Willapa Harbor, widely known for its oyster culture. Midway across the bay (R) stand the ruins of WILLAPACIFIC, most shame- less of the "land" ventures promoted about 1900. A platform, the size of a city block, was erected on piles driven into the tideflats—here was to rise the "Venice of the Northwest"—and adjacent lots were sold to remote investors. The planking has rotted away, but a cluster of piling remains. South of the junction, US 101 borders the bay and crosses the north and middle forks of the Nemah River. At low tide the flats of Willapa Bay extend almost as far as the eye can see. Here, in the shallows, the long-legged crane is a common sight, standing motionless for long periods, resting gravely on one foot. At a crossroad known as JOHN- SON'S LANDING, 55.8 m., is a junction with US 830 (see Tour 3b). US 101 bears right from this junction, crossing the slough of the Naselle River. LONG ISLAND, seven miles long, sprawls lazily across the river mouth at the south end of Willapa Bay. At 70.3 777. is a junction with two side roads, entrances to a popular playground, the NORTH PENINSULA, a slim finger of land extending parallel to the mainland for more than 25 miles along the coast. Little more than a mile wide, it forms the barrier between Willapa Bay and the ocean. 1. Right from the junction a gravel-surfaced road follows the bay shore along a slightly crested upland, a region of dairy farms, patches of woodland,
cultivated cranberry land, and several small lakes, the joy of bass fishers. Signs along the route offer fresh oysters for sale, and at intervals the traveler arrives at an oyster farm, its pastures the pungent mud flats of Willapa Bay. The warm, shallow tide creeps twice daily over the flats, bringing the oysters their food and furnishing the peninsula its leading industry. At 12.6 m. on the graveled road is a junction with a side road. Left on this road 1.3 m. to OCEAN PARK (sea level, 250 pop.), which began as a camp- meeting resort. Along the main street is the Wreckage, a house built of material cast up on the beach: logs, planks, and shingle bolts. Furniture is constructed of curious bits of bleached driftwood and grotesquely shaped fragments of flotsam. Near by is the Mar1ne Stud1o (open) of Charles L. Fitzpatrick, a marine pho- tographer known for his pictures of wrecks and other scenes along the ocean front. NAHCOTTA, 13 m. (sea level, 50 pop.), near numerous oyster beds, is the site of a large oyster cannery. In' 1889 Nahcotta became the northern terminal of a narrow-gauge railroad now abandoned, which once constituted the trans- portation system of the peninsula. OYSTERVILLE, 17 m. (sea level, 38 pop.), the most northerly settlement on the peninsula, was founded in 1854, and became the seat of Pacific County in 1861. For a while oystering prospered, but the town declined when parasites and pollution of the waters caused severe losses. The rival town of South Bend, pointing to promised railroad connections, won the county seat in 1892 (see above). In the long dispute that followed, Oyster- ville protested that railroad workers had been illegally allowed ballots in order to swing the vote. The Oysterville courthouse, from which determined South Bend citizens carried off the records, was used later as a schoolhouse but is now a dairy barn. Left from Oysterville, the main side road cuts across the narrow peninsula to the ocean beach and ends at 17.5 m. 2. Left (straight ahead) from the junction is SEAVIEW, 0.3 m. (sea level, 300 pop.), entrance to the seaside resorts of the North Peninsula. Along the ocean front are a number of beach colonies offering excellent opportunities for sea- and sun-bathing, clam digging, crab catching, deep-sea fishing, horseback riding, and bicycling over the hard beach sands. (Resorts have life guards, but swimming is advisable only at flood tide, because of the strong undertow at the ebb). The Knowles Studio (open) is maintained by Joe Knowles, an artist and exponent of woodcraft. Knowles, who is one-eighth Chippewa, was a guide in the Maine woods when a magazine publisher saw some of his drawings on birch bark and purchased a hunting subject for a cover design. Later Knowles became a portrait painter. In 1913 he entered the wilds of northern Maine, to prove that civilized man, having knowledge of woodcraft, could survive in the wilderness without clothing, weapons, or implements of any kind. After two months he came out of the forest, fully dressed in skins, and in better physical condition than when he went in. The Maine woods experience is related in his Alone in the Wilderness. In 1917 Knowles came to live at Seaview. The murals in the lobby of the Monticello Hotel, in Longyiew (see Tour lb), are his work. Many of the etchings on display in the studio are imprinted on sheets of pulp paper that was washed ashore in the wreck of the Iowa in 1936. Right from Seaview on State 12-A is LONG BEACH (accommodations of all kinds), 1 m. (sea level, 620 pop.), on what is claimed to be the longest hard beach in the world, approximately 300 feet wide at low tide and more than 28 miles long. There are no speed limits here, and auto racing is a favorite sport. The varicolored stones in the Lew1s and Clark Monument at Long Beach were contributed by various communities along the route followed by the Lewis and Clark Expedition. To the monument is attached a marble plaque marking the end of the north coastal exploration. Near by is an attractive log building almost covered with vines, with a log observation tower. North of Long Beach, the highway passes a number of small beach colonies, their population varying with the seasons. At 8 m. is a Coast Guard and Naval Rad1o Compass Sta- t1on. South of the junction US 101 turns left, bordering marshy TAR-
LETT SLOUGH. On Baker Bay, just inside the mouth of the Columbia River, is ILWACO, 71.6 m. (sea level, 656 pop.), named for Elowahka Jim, son-in-law of the powerful Chief Comcomly, who was the leader of many Indian tribes in this region. Captain James Johnson visited the harbor in 1848, took up a donation claim and built a house, but left shortly afterward. Actual settlement was begun by Henry Feister in 1851, when he opened an ox-team transportation system for hauling supplies to settlers on Shoalwater Bay (Willapa Harbor). By the late sixties the town was a stopping point on the expanding stagecoach and ferry route between Astoria, Oregon, and the Puget Sound country. Stagecoaches were displaced in 1889 by a narrow-gauge railroad, variously called the Ilwaco and Shoalwater Bay Railroad and the Ilwaco Railway and Navigation Company. The road came under the control of the Oregon-Washington Railroad and Navigation Company in 1889 and served the North Peninsula until abandoned in 1930. Connecting with a ferry to Astoria, trains ran on a schedule that varied with the tides—it was only certain that no train would appear at the same hour two days in succession. Along the brief main thoroughfare, the trackage of the old railroad may still be seen. Tall headlands on the west protect Ilwaco from blasts that season- ally rake the Pacific. The harbor, a haven for fishing vessels, has several salmon canneries; most of these have been closed since 1935, however, as a consequence of the removal of fixed gear, popularly known as fish traps, from Columbia River waters. Right from Ilwaco on Fort Canby Road, 1.5 m., to a junction with two roads Right (north) to OCEANVIEW (summer hotels), 0.5 m., from which the noted FISHING ROCKS can be seen along the cliff-lined beach. From these rocks fishermen cast lines into the surf below, catching sea bass, perch, flounder, skate, and occasionally halibut. (No license is required except for cutthroat fishing). Left (south) 1.3 m. to BEARD'S HOLLOW, a rocky indentation at the base of a precipice. The hollow was named for Captain E. N. Beard, commander of the bark Vandelia, which foundered off the mouth of the Columbia in 1853. All hands were lost, and the ship was found floating bottom side up near McKenzie Head. Captain Beard's body was found on the beach below present Beard's Hollow. The road swings R., 2 m., on a short jog of a few hundred yards to the high promontory of NORTH HEAD, where a L1ghthouse stands above the sea that roars against the rocks of DEAD MAN'S HOLLOW (L). This hollow also was named for the lost sailors of the Vandelia. At the U. S. Weather Bureau Observatory a large telescope enables visitors to look to the south across the wide mouth of the Columbia. From this vantage point it is easy to understand why sailors feared this entrance; before the construction of jetties to control its bar, it was known as the "Graveyard of the Pacific." On Peacock Spit immedi- ately below may be seen a few remnants of wrecked ships. On fair days Tilla- mook Rock, 22 miles distant down the Oregon Coast, is clearly visible. FORT CANBY (open by permission), 4 m., built in 1864, one of the earliest forts in Washington, was named for Major General Edward Richard Canby. An important base in pioneer days, overlooking the Columbia River entrance, it has been on the inactive list for some time. Cape D1sappo1ntment L1ght House, on the military reservation, stands on the tall headland named by Captain John Meares, who rounded the cape in 1788. Captain Meares, failing to perceive that
he was at the outlet of a great river, named the cape in chagrin. The sheltered water behind the cape, now known as Baker Bay, he named Deception Bay. East of Ilwaco, the paved road follows the shore line of Baker Bay, the prospective terminus of the proposed canal to link Puget Sound with the Columbia River by an inland water route (see Tour 2d) through Grays and Willapa harbors. CHINOOK, 78 m., (sea level, 500 pop.), is a weathered fishing village. Although antedated by the neighboring settlement of Chinook- ville, long since disintegrated, Chinook glories in its historic past. Captain Robert Gray's visit to this section in 1792 constituted a strong claim of the United States to possession of all the country drained by the Columbia River. Despite Chinook's somewhat storm- worn appearance, it boasted for many years the highest per capita wealth of any settlement of its size in the country. A fish conservation act in 1934, outlawing the use of fixed gear in Washington waters, nearly ruined the townsfolk, who were dependent for their income on this method of fishing. South of Chinook, US 101 rims the north bank of the Columbia, nearly four miles wide at this point. The highway enters a tunnel under a steep promontory, 78 m., on the top of which is Fort Columb1a, one of the many guardians of the river entrance, unob- servable from the road. When Captain Robert Gray landed near here May 12, 1792, thousands of Indians from near-by villages flocked to the river to see his great winged ship, the Columbia, enter the mouth of the Columbia River—the first entry of which there is record. At 79.5 m., a flagpole and weather-stained wooden tablet mark the S1te of the Land1ng of Capta1n Robert Gray. In McGOWAN, 81.2 m. (sea level, 20 pop.), are the remains of a former ferry dock, wrecked by a storm and abandoned many years ago. The old piling and deserted fish traps raise desolate gray forms above the surface of the river. A roadside post office is practically all that is left of McGowan. The Washington section of US 101 ends at MEGLER, 84 m. (sea level, 10 pop.), a ferry slip. Auto ferries (fee $1; car and driver) connect here with Astoria, Oregon. Across the broad, restless waters of the Columbia, the soft outlines of Onion Peak, Saddle Mountain, and Green Mountain headland rise mistily from the Oregon shore.
Junction with US 101—Union—Port Orchard—Purdy—Gig Harbor; 52.7 m. State 14. Bituminous-surfaced roadbed throughout. Limited hotel accommodations in larger towns; numerous resorts and cabin camps. State 14 follows the wooded eastern shore of upper Hood Canal, cuts through logged-off land to Sinclair Inlet, and skirts the numerous bays and coves of the west shore of Puget Sound. The highway twists and turns through wooded areas alternating with truck farms, berry fields, and grazing land. The earliest thorough exploration of the waters adjacent to this route was made in 1841 by the expedition under the command of Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, and many of the place names in the region originated with that survey. The heavy stands of timber attracted lumbermen, and several mill towns were soon flourishing along the water front— Seabeck, Sidney, Port Gamble, and Poulsbo; in the fifties and sixties, these settlements were far more important trading centers than were Seattle and Tacoma on the eastern side of Puget Sound. Logging, beginning along the waterways, rapidly advanced inland, and within a quarter of a century most of the virgin timber had been removed. Camps closed down and sawmills were dismantled. Farmers came in increasing numbers and settled near towns and along the water front; soon they were moving into the cutover areas, where they cleared small patches of land and seeded them to grain and garden truck or utilized them as pasture for herds of dairy cattle. Fishing also increased in importance. Shrimp, clams, oysters, and crabs were found in abundance, and many a sheltered cove was converted into an outfitting point for the seining and halibut boats that operated in the sounds and straits and along fishing banks of the open ocean. Today, catches have diminished and the industry has become less important, but many of the villages are still marked by fishermen's docks, drying nets, and fleets of small craft at the moorings. An added source of income is the resort and recreation business. Thousands of city dwellers spend week-ends or entire summers in camps and cabins on the Canal or Sound, and additional thousands are attracted by the excellent hunt- ing and fishing which Kitsap Peninsula offers. Until recent years, communication with the east shore of Puget Sound was largely by water; a few rough roads and trails led from the water's edge to farms and camps in the interior. Ferries and small steamers, offering regular service, linked the larger towns with Seattle, and small tramp boats made their way into the secluded bays and inlets with mail,
general cargo, and passengers. Today, a network of roads connects all parts of the peninsula and joins it with Sound points. This connection is still by the circuitous route leading westward through the bottle- neck at the head of Hood Canal, and thence southward around the head of Puget Sound; but a more direct route will be established with the reconstruction of the fallen Narrows bridge to connect the peninsula with Tacoma. State 14 starts at the junction with US 101, 0 m., three miles south of Potlatch and runs eastward across the Skokomish River delta, a thinly wooded and swamp tideland. The highway swings across the SKOKOMISH RIVER, 1.4 m., and around the upper end of Hood Canal (L), which bends northeast at this point. Placid tides ebb and flow over the flats below the steeply pitched foothills; beyond, the snow-crests of the Olympic range may be glimpsed occasionally. The panoramas of water, sandy beaches, massed banks of pink rhododen- drons, and tall timber are ever-changing in the morning fog, afternoon sun, and long twilight shadows. UNION, 5.1 m. (10 alt., 165 pop.), started in 1858 with the estab- lishment of the Wilson and Anderson trading post. In the same year the Rush House, a two-story building with a bar and six bedrooms, was built. Guests were required to furnish their own bedding, and a cow's horn was used to summon them to eat. Anderson shortly sold his in- terest to F. C. Purdy, and a few years later John McReavy, a lumber- man, assumed ownership and management of the store. By 1876 the logging camps on the Canal had increased to about 50; and most of these camps obtained provisions from the trading post. In 1889 the site was platted and named Union City. Then came the big boom of 1890-2 with the rumor that the Union Pacific was to make the town its salt water terminus. Tents were pitched everywhere, a half dozen stores and at least as many saloons sprang up. A sawmill, hastily built, was soon trying to meet the demand for lumber. Additions to the original townsite were platted for miles in all directions, and lots changed hands for $1,000 an acre. With the landing of construction gangs, horses, and equipment by the Union Pacific and the actual begin- ning of work, the dream seemed on the verge of realization. But on the very day the graders arrived, the Baring Brothers Bank of London failed, precipitating the panic of 1893, and when the news reached Union City a few days later, work was suspended. The boom was over. In 1904 the postal department dropped the word "city." Today, the town is a popular summer resort, and lots along the water front are again bringing a good price. The Capta1n Warren Gove House (private), a white frame dwelling, was constructed in the early seventies. It is a good example of sturdy frontier building, with a New England simplicity of design. The John McReavy House (private) is a large, three-story, yellow frame building. The interior is paneled with cedar boards cut in the Gove sawmill. It was completed in the late eighties for John
McReavy, son-in-law of Captain Gove. In spite of its age, it is still well preserved. The highway continues eastward, hugging the shoreline along which are summer homes, interspersed with occasional taverns and roadhouses. Moored at small wharves or plying the smooth waters are boats of sportsmen and pleasure seekers. An occasional shrimp boat, the arms of its drags extended, cruises off shore. TWANOH STATE PARK, 12.6 m. (camping, picnicking facili- ties), a pleasant woodland beside the water front, extends for nearly one-half mile between the beach and the highway. The name of the park derives from the word "twana" (Ind. portage). This area is sparsely populated and still retains much of its wilderness character. Startled pheasant and quail frequently whir across the high- way. Deer are often seen browsing in the open forest glades. In their frantic flight, they sometimes plunge recklessly in front of passing automobiles; markers caution the motorist to "Watch for Deer." At 20.5 m. is a junction with State 14-A, a graveled road. Right here past DEBORAH LAKE (R), 3.8 m., to a junction with State 14-B: (1) R. on State 14-A to ALLYN, 4.1 m. (sea level, 125 pop.), once a logging town but today a center for large berry farms in the environs. Scat- tered shops and dwellings, a small white church, and the unoccupied shell of what was once a resort hotel constitute the town. At 10.8 m. is a junction with a graveled road: L. on this road to GRAPE- VIEW, 1 7b. (sea level, 100 pop.), a village with a post office called Detroit. About half a mile to the east is STRETCH ISLAND, often called the Isle of Grapes. A bridge connects the island with the mainland. In 1878 Walter Echert began viticulture here. Years of experimentation and selection by Echert and others have produced a variety of grape, the Island Belle, suited to the soil and the climate. Three wineries and two juice plants operate on the island. State 14-A continues southward through logged-off land and second-growth timber to Shelton, 29 m. (see Tour 9a), and a junction with US 101. (2) L. from the junction, on State 14-B along the winding east shore of Case Inlet. Bordering the road are old orchards (L), the trees gnarled and blighted, and a few berry fields. In the tidewater fiats (R) are rows of stakes which mark extensive oyster beds. Sea fowl circle downward over the calm surface of the water, dip for an instant to seize some bit of floating debris, and then, white wings flashing, soar again. Occasionally, a crane stands motionless on the sands, awaiting some unwary fish. At 9.2 ra. is a junction with a dirt road; R. here to VAUGHN, 1 m. (sea level, 300 pop.), a cluster of houses around a miniature business district on the tree-lined shore of Vaughn Bay. At 10.4 ra. on State 14-B is a junction with an unnamed graveled road: R. here through second-growth alder, big leaf maple, fir, and cedar to HOME, 7 m. (sea level, 200 pop.), on Von Geldren Cove. Originally called Home Colony, the town was organized in 1909 by the Mutual Home Association, com- prising a group of Socialists and political dissenters. Land was apportioned in two-acre plots, but other assets were administered collectively. A co-operative store flourished, and a newspaper was started by Jay Fox. The first jarring note in this modern Utopia was a controversy originating in a division of opinion over nude bathing. The conflict reached the local press, then the Pierce County courts, and, finally, the press of the Nation. The issue of freedom of the press became interwoven with the original disagreements. Hardly had this dissension worked itself out, when the colony was caught in the backwash of suspicion engendered by the First World War. A visit by Emma Goldman and other
radicals led to renewed resentment, criticism, and investigations. Home Colony survives as Home, a neat agricultural village, with cottages surrounded by berry patches, gardens, and poultry runs. Huckleberry harvesting and the cutting of ferns and foliage of Oregon grape, cedar, and huckleberry bushes for florists are also sources of local income. LONGBRANCH, 11.2 m. (sea level, 300 pop.), is a colony of country estates and summer homes screened by dense evergreen woods bordering Filuce Bay, whose shallow waters offer good crab fishing. State 14-B swings in a northeasterly direction away from Carr Inlet through WAUNA, 15 m. (sea level, 50 pop.), and across Burley Lagoon. The State Pollut1on Laboratory (L), 15.7 m., a frame building beside large piles of oyster shells, maintains a staff of chemists and biologists who study stream and tidewater pollution and methods of prevention and control, in order to protect the fishing industry, particularly oyster culture. At 15.8 m. is the junction of State 14-B with State 14. State 14, the main highway, clings to the graveled east shore of Hood Canal. Evergreen trees line the road; huckleberry bushes, salal, and Oregon grapes form a dense green undergrowth. On the sandy flats just above the tide line marsh grass grows, and here thousands of migra- tory fowl find food and shelter during winter months (hunting pro- hibited). BELFAIR, 21 m. (21 alt., 250 pop.), formerly called Clifton, is a supply point for summer colonists and for fishing and hunting trips in season. It is also the center of dairy farms and poultry ranches. The highway strikes overland east of Belfair through stands of alder and second-growth timber. Here and there, a gnarled tree left by loggers rises over the tops of the second growth. At 31.7 m., near the southern end of Sinclair Inlet on Puget Sound, is a junction with State 21, a concrete-paved road. (1) Left on State 21 along the western shore of Sinclair Inlet to Bremerton, 3 m. (15 alt., 10,170 pop.), (see Cross Sound Tour 2). North of Bremerton the road skirts the west shore of Dye's Inlet. At 7 m. is a junction with a bituminous-surfaced road: L. on this road, is the Camp Wesley Harr1s R1fle Range, 2.4 m., its several ranges flanking the highway. Enlisted men are sent here from Bremerton in detachments to practice marksmanship. The side road continues through stands of second-growth timber and small farms to SEABECK, 10.1 m. (10 alt., 150 pop.), on Hood Canal. In the seven- ties, the town grew up around a large sawmill. Except for brief shutdowns, it operated continuously for over a quarter of a century. Boats loaded lumber at the wharves—ties for railroads in California, boards for homes in New Jersey, or shingles for barns in Iowa. Each year roads ran deeper into the forests as lum- berjacks sought logs to feed the saws. One of the early settlers was Jacob Hauptly, who ran a butcher shop in the thriving mill town. He bought his cattle in the Chehalis country, and drove them overland along narrow Indian trails to Union City, where he loaded them on scows to be towed to Seabeck by the steamer St. Patrick. Seabeck's prosperity fell into decline when a fire left the mill a mass of ruins and wiped out tie means of livelihood for most of the town's inhabitants. Today, it is a supply point for the camps and summer homes that fringe the quiet warm waters of Hood Canal. A passenger and automobile ferry runs regularly across the canal to Brinnon (see Tour oa). At 11.6 m. the road is a junction with a forest road: L. here 0.2 m. to the P1oneer Cemetery, surrounded by towering evergreens and partially overgrown by young trees. Cedar markers and skilfully carved marble headstones are fenced with hand-turned pickets which are fitted to hand-squared rails, doweled with
wooden pins into the corner posts. The epitaphs tell briefly the story of the pioneer community. The main side road, State 21, continues northward. The K1tsap Golf and Country Club (R), 7.1 m. (18 holes; greens fee, 79c), has a tree-dotted course, on which golf may be played throughout the year, within sight of the sheltered waters of Dye's Inlet. CHICO, 8.4 m. (sea level, 589 pop.), consists of expensive country homes grouped around a large general store and a school. The town derived its name from Chief Chico, who at the time of his death in 1909 was said to be 105 years old. At 10.9 m. is a junction with a dirt road: R. here 0.3 m. to SILVERDALE (15 alt., 300 pop.), at the head of Dye's Inlet. A large rambling building, once a hotel, a number of abandoned stores, and several weathered houses date back to the late nineteenth century, when transportation on the peninsula was still almost entirely by water. Today, Silverdale is an important receiving station for the Washington Co-operative Egg and Poultry Association. State 21 cuts northward across the neck of Manette Peninsula. Occasionally, the shimmer of Puget Sound may be glimpsed through the screen of small fir, cedar, and madrona trees, as the road dips and curves through the low rolling hills. At 15.8 m. State 21 forks: (1) R. here on one branch to KEYPORT, 2.8 m. (25 alt., 190 pop.), a village centering around the Naval Torpedo Stat1on (open 8-5 July 4 and Oct. 27 (Navy Day) only; apply at guardhouse), where torpedoes are serviced. A force of about 140 officers, marines, and sailors is stationed here. The brick barracks and shops are surrounded by a spacious lawn that slopes to the water's edge. On a hill are the steel towers of the radio station. Mounted on concrete bases are powerful searchlights. Surround- ing the station is a strong metal-net fence. (2) L. 3.2 m. from the fork of State 21 to a junction with State 21-A: R. here to POULSBO, 1.4 m. (sea level, 639 pop.), a picturesque fishing village which stretches along the sinuous shoreline of Liberty Bay. Substantial frame and brick buildings line the main street. Farms crowd into the town from the hillsides. Trawlers, seine boats, and other small fishing craft line the long wharves and docks or sway at anchor a short distance offshore. Before the fishing season begins, the water front is intensely active; nets and boats are mended and the air is heavy with the smell of tar and oakum. Many of the boats fish for salmon in the Sound and Straits; others work on the halibut banks; some operate in distant Alaskan waters. The bulk of the fish caught is cod, found in sufficient quantities in local waters to keep the Pacific Coast Codfish plant, a short distance southeast of town, in operation for several months of the year. The fish are cleaned, mild-cured (lightly salted), dried in the open air, and wrapped and packed for shipment to eastern markets. Sixty or seventy persons find employment in this plant. The first settler on the site of Poulsbo was a Norwegian named Eliason, who arrived in 1882. Approximately 90 per cent of the people at present living along the bayshore are Norwegians. Annually, on May 17, the Norwegian Independence Day is celebrated with a bazaar, speeches, dances, and singing. Participants dress in old-country provincial costumes. Since 1905 the Kitsap Co-operative Association, with a membership of 400 farmers and fishermen, has successfully operated a general store. The Washington Egg and Poultry Co-operative Association also has a strong unit here. State 21, the main side road, continues northward through young evergreen forests. Salal and huckleberry mingle with brake and sword ferns in the rank undergrowth. In spring masses of delicately pink rhododendrons are bright against the dark green of the open forests. At scattered points along the road are small farms and chicken ranches. PORT GAMBLE, 27.2 m. (sea level, 500 pop.), dates back to 1853. In July of that year the 50-ton schooner Julius Pringle put out from San Francisco on a voyage of exploration to Puget Sound. The captain, one of the Talbots
of Maine, whose shipping and lumbering interests reached across the continent, was seeking a mill site. Associated with him were two passengers, Cyrus Walker and A. J. Pope of East Machias, Maine. Talbot skirted the shores of Admiralty Inlet and Hood Canal and finally settled upon a deep bay backed by heavy forests. Port Gamble, as the bay had been named by the Wilkes expedition in 1841, satisfied all of Captain Talbot's demands. Without delay, he sent a crew of ten men ashore with the necessary tools and provisions to construct a bunkhouse, cookshed, and store, and to fell and dress lumber for the projected sawmill. Thus the firm of Pope and Talbot sired its company town in the Far West; and today the stamp of Pope and Talbot is still on the community as well as on the logs coming to the mill. For 50 years, it was a lucky brand, for the town flourished with the company's growing lumber trade. In recent years, the interests of the firm have spread beyond the area, and include holdings in the Puget Mill Company and the McCormick Steamship Company; but Port Gamble is no longer the bustling town where three- and four-masters used to stop almost daily to load lumber at its docks. No absentee owners were the Popes and Talbots who came around Cape Horn to build an industry. Long lines of shade trees grown from Maine elm slips still mark the original main street, and bright flower gardens set off the severe houses, in New England style. For their employees the owners built rows of box houses with steep-pitched roofs; then they added a company store, a community hall, and a church; finally, they topped off this program with a large hotel. The more recently built barracks and cottages are a drab brown, the color of baked beans, and their yards are treeless and flowerless. A school, a hospital, apartment houses, a men's boarding house, a store, and a service station complete the business structures of the present-day town. The Puget Hotel, built in 1903, but furnished with carved oak, mahogany, and rosewood shipped out much earlier, rears three stories above cropped lawns and gorgeous flower beds among magnificent maples, giant cherry trees, and other eastern shade trees. The mill, on the water front (R), is a mass of large gray buildings surrounded by piles of lumber. Five hundred fifty men, white and Indian, are employed in the mill when it is operating at maximum capacity (visiting hours 8-5 work days; apply at mill superintendent's office). On the streets of the town, Indians watch the small happenings of Port Gamble's day-by-day life. They are for the most part Clallams, descendants of the natives whom Captain Talbot found living in their village Teekalet (Ind. brightness of the noonday sun), called Boston by the white settlers, across from the site he had chosen for his mill. In early days, these natives used to sell fish oil to the mill store at 50c a gallon for greasing logging skids. State 21 ends at KINGSTON, 31.2 m. (sea level, 175 pop.), a few business buildings surrounded by a score of beach cabins and summer cottages. Ferries run to EDMONDS on regular schedules (see Tour Sb). State 14 continues due east to PORT ORCHARD, 35.7 m. (sea level, 1,566 pop.), seat of Kitsap County and one of the oldest settle- ments on Kitsap Peninsula. In 1854 William Renton and Daniel Howard landed near the towering forests along the protected waters of the bay named Port Orchard by Captain George Vancouver, in honor of H. M. Orchard of the ship Discovery. Here they erected a sawmill. The success of this venture soon attracted shipbuilders, and the sound of hammers mingled with the hum of the sawmill. The first vessel built in Kitsap County, the /. /. Stevens, was launched here in 1855. The village which grew up around the mill was named Sidney for Sidney Stevens, who platted the townsite. Early in the nineties, the Port Orchard Naval Station post office was established in Sidney, and in succeeding years the navy yard across the inlet assumed an important part in the town's economy. In 1903, by an act of the State legislature,
the name was officially changed to Port Orchard, and shortly there- after the town was made the county seat. Present-day Port Orchard stretches along the rim of the bay, many of the buildings being built on pilings over the tide flats. East of the business district, the residential section climbs the steep hill, where terraced lawns, rock gardens, and bright flowers and shrubs make a colorful picture in midsummer. The courthouse crowns the hill. With the depletion of the forests on the peninsula, Port Orchard has come to depend primarily upon construction work in the Navy Yard at Brem- erton and upon the agricultural development of the surrounding coun- try. It is also an important shipping point for ferns and huckleberry greens for the florist trade. At 36.2 m. is a junction with a bituminous-surfaced road. Left here to ANNAPOLIS, 1.2 m. (1o alt., 500 pop.), a cluster of shops and houses around a dock from which a small ferry runs to Bremerton. At 1.4 m. is a junction with a concrete-paved road; R. here 0.1 m. to RETSIL and the Wash1ngton Veterans' Home (open). The plant consists of a modern hospital, a large auditorium, a number of frame and stucco-finished dorm- itories, and several cottages. Weeping willows, dark green holly trees, red- trunked madronas, and dogwood trees frame a superb view of Sinclair Inlet and the jagged Olympics beyond. In this institution about 500 veterans live with their families. At 37.2 m. is a two-way fork of State 14. Left on one branch of State 14 through COLBY, 6.5 m. (sea level, 55 pop.), to HARPER, 5.8 m. (sea level, 250 pop.), a summer colony clustered around a slip, from which ferries operate to Vashon Island (see Island Tour 1) and to Seattle (see Seattle). The main section of State 14 continues southward through rolling, sparsely settled country, once covered by a heavy forest. Small gardens, poultry ranches, and dairy farms alternate with stands of second-growth timber and cutover land. BURLEY, 45.5 m. (sea level, 150 pop.), a broken circle of frame buildings along a lagoon at the head of Carr Inlet, was started as a co-operative colony called Circle City—its buildings being laid out on the periphery of a wide circle reaching from the hills down to the bay shore where the sawmill stood. The board of directors of the co-opera- tive selected colonists to join the settlement on the basis of their crafts and skills. A hotel, a store, a schoolhouse, and a number of dwellings were laid out along the water's edge, and a long sluiceway was con- structed from a creek in the hills to bring water to the town and the mill. Land was cleared, and those who understood agricultural practices turned to farming. For a number of years, the affairs of the colony ran smoothly. The exhaustion of merchantable timber, however, and the consequent closing of the mill raised acute economic problems. This difficulty, together with differences over policies, resulted in the dis- integration of the town's organization and the changing of the name to Burley. Only the community hall and a few dignified old houses remain. PURDY, 47.3 m. (sea level, 80 pop.), is a scattering of buildings
on the site of an old Indian camping ground. The culture of Japanese oysters along the sand bars and in the shallows of the lagoon has been developed recently. In Purdy is the junction of State 14 and State 14-B (see above). At 51.1 m. is a junction with a concrete-paved road. Left on this road to the OLD TOWN section of GIG HARBOR, 0.8 m. (sea level, 1,095 poP-)- The first settlers, Dr. Burnham and his family, arrived in the early eighties. In the succeeding quarter of a century the town flourished around a sawmill and the wharves, where schooners and, later, steam freighters loaded the cut lumber. Within a score of years, however, the forests were gone, the mill was closed and dismantled, and the freighters sought cargoes in other ports. Only the substantial brick post office, the high school, a few stores, and a newspaper, the Peninsula Gateway, divert traffic to Old Town today. Straight ahead, State 14 leads to the NEW TOWN section of GIG HARBOR, 51.6 m. The main flow of traffic passes a fringe of one- and two-story brick and frame buildings on both sides of Front Street. Black forests cover the hillside west of the highway, and on the east the tranquil haven of Gig Harbor keeps its craft safe from the rough waters of the open Sound. Scattered between woods and water are the pros- perous modern homes of fishermen, whose tarred nets are spread to dry on well-kept lawns. Business is largely concentrated in New Town. The Gig Harbor shipyard, owned by the Washington Navigation Company, shelters under a spreading sheet-iron roof its piers and ways, machinery, and benches. At its drydocks the company's five ferries, as well as sundry fishing boats, are maintained and serviced. Mitchell Skansie, organizer and part owner of this enterprise, began by building fishing boats, mostly purse seiners, of 65 to 85 feet, more than 100 of which have slipped down the Gig Harbor ways to a roving life on the waters off Western America. Formerly, Pierce County operated the ferries built with the hammers and caulking irons of Gig Harbor craftsmen; but, in 1921, the shipbuilding company took over the lines. The lake-like haven of Gig Harbor is shut off by a narrow entrance from the open Sound; surrounding hills protect it from gales from any quarter, as the crew of the ship's gig from the Wilkes expedition grate- fully found when it took refuge here from a storm in 1841. Gig Harbor is the home port for some 35 large purse seiners which follow the various fishing runs from Mexican waters to the Arctic seas. They are manned mostly by Croatians, Slovaks, and Austrians, who maintain a Catholic Church and its several societies, and a Croatian Fraternal Union, and form a strong unit of the Fishermen's Union. Agriculture is also a source of income for Gig Harbor. The Wash- ington Berry Growers Association and the Washington Co-operative Egg and Poultry Association both have depots here. Produce, flowers, and poultry are displayed at the community fair held each September in the high school gymnasium. Gig Harbor presents an unusual sport in the rooster races held at the C. E. Shaw residence each Saturday and Sunday throughout the summer. The trained white leghorn racers, bred for speed, roost in the little houses of a miniature village laid out beside the track.
The Commun1ty Park, (L) at the north end of Crescent Valley Creek bridge, has picnic facilities on the landscaped grounds, developed by WPA labor. At 52.5 m. is a junction with State 14-C, a concrete-paved road. Right here, 0.9 m. to a junction with a graveled road: L. here to Holly- croft Gardens, 0.2 m., a large holly farm, owned by P. H. Peyran. At 2.6 m. on 14-C is a junction with a graveled road. L. here 2.1 m. to the west end of the Narrows Bridge, now (1941) being reconstructed. This suspension bridge will be 5,939 feet in length; its longest span will be 2,800 feet. Peninsula residents expect that suburban home developments and an influx of tourist traffic will follow, from which Gig Harbor, the nearest town to this portal of the Olympic Peninsula, will profit. State 14 ends at the ferry slip, 52.7 m., from which boats run regu- larly to Tacoma (see Tacoma). luiimiiiiiiiaiiiiiiiiiiiiaiiiiiiiiiiiiaiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiaiiiiiiii Mount Rainier National Park Season: Nisqually (SW.) Entrance open year-round; others closed in winter. Summer season of park approximately June 1 to Oct. 15. Ski season Dec. 1 to May 15. Administrative Offices: National Park Service for Mount Rainier National Park, Longmire; branch office, Federal Office Bldg., Seattle. Public utility operators under contract with Department of the Interior for providing trans- portation and other accommodations are: Rainier National Park Co., Tacoma; branch offices, 418 University St., Seattle; and AAA Club, Commercial Hotel, Yakima; Dr. A. W. Bridge, 744 Market St., Tacoma. Admission: Yearly automobile permits issued at Nisqually and White River entrances; fee $1. No permit required at Ohanapecosh or Carbon River en- trances, but visitors should register. Transportation: Entrance: Nisqually (see Tour iD)\ Carbon River (see Tour 1D); Ohanapecosh (see Tour 8£); White River (see Tour zc). No airplanes serve the park. Rainier National Park Co. operates stages through Nisqually Entrance to Longmire and Paradise Valley throughout year from Seattle and Tacoma; to Yakima (Sunrise) Park in summer from Tacoma, Seattle, and Yakima. Morton-Ashford stages every Saturday from Tacoma to Packwood, thence by private bus to Ohanapecosh Hot Springs. From Narada Falls, end of winter road, to Paradise Valley, 1.5 m. snow trail negotiated afoot or on skis; also accessible by shuttle stage (50c one -way; 75c round trip). Highways within park total 69 miles, all hard-surfaced, oiled, or graveled. Maximum speed limit 33 m.p.h. Marked trails total 241 miles. Summit, Pinnacle Peak, Nisqually, Paradise, and other glacier climbs require guides (ask a ranger). Foot, saddle, and pack-horse guide service available until Labor Day at Paradise Valley and Yakima Park. Accommodations—Summer: Longmire—Public campgrounds; comfort stations, stores, wood, tables, water; trailers permitted. National Park Inn offers rooms
on European plan; rooms also in Cottage Annex. Housekeeping cabins (three rooms, equipped) available. Cafeteria meal service available at National Park Inn. Paradise Valley—Public campgrounds (same as Longmire). Paradise Inn offers rooms on American plan; Paradise Lodge offers rooms on European plan; table d'hote, cafeteria, and a la carte meal service to midseason; cafeteria throughout summer. Housekeeping cabins, one-room and three-room, available. Yakima Park—215 one-room and three-room housekeeping cabins available; cafeteria service at Sunrise Lodge; camp supplies also available. Ohanapecosh Park—Ohanapecosh Lodge offers rooms American and European plan; housekeeping cabins (two rooms), and housekeeping tents also available. Accommodations—Winter: Longmire—Public campground closed. Rooms in National Park Inn and Cottage Annex; housekeeping cabins and cafeteria meal service also available. Paradise Valley—Public campgrounds closed. Paradise Lodge offers rooms on American and European plan; cafeteria meal service week-ends and holidays only. Paradise Inn offers rooms on both American and European plan. Table d'hote meal service week-ends and holidays; a la carte during midweek. Dorm- itory facilities also available. Clothing and Equipment: Winter sports visitors should bring winter clothing, preferably ski suits and boots. Hikers and trail riders may rent clothing and sports equipment at Paradise guide house; some may be purchased. Guides provide calked shoes, clothing, alpenstocks, colored glasses, and face paints, necessary for trips over snow and ice fields, at reasonable fees. Limited sup- plies of fishing tackle and bait available. Food supplies can be purchased at Longmire and Paradise Valley all year, and in summer at Yakima Park and Ohanapecosh. Medical Service: Physician available at town of National, 7 m. from Nis- qually entrance, all year. Trained nurses at Paradise Inn and Yakima Park in summer. Physician available at Paradise Valley every day of week in winter. Post Offices: Longmire, all year; Paradise Inn and Sunrise Lodge, July 1 to Labor Day. Communications and Express Service: Telephone and telegraph service avail- able at inns and lodges in the park and at National Park Service Administra- tion BIdg., Longmire. Special Regulations: Permit required for building fires, in other than established auto camps; fires should be extinguished completely before leaving camp. All garbage must be deposited in receptacles. No smoking while on trails; no picking of flowers or shrubs. Feeding of bears is prohibited. (Since bears often break into automobiles in which they smell food, provisions should be sus- pended in box from the limb of a tree, well out of reach.) Penalty for violation of park regulations: Maximum of 180 days in jail or $500 fine, or both. (Complete regulations displayed at park superintendent's office and at ranger stations.) Summary of Attractions: Most popular areas of the park are Longmire, Para- dise Valley, Yakima Park, and Ohanapecosh (mineral baths here). Lakes and streams offer trout fishing (no license required); lakes open from June 15 to Sept. 30, streams from May 1 to Oct. 31, unless otherwise posted. Swimming in Reflection Lake. Excellent skiing over unobstructed terrain at Paradise Val- ley; ski runs for beginners at Longmire. Scenic Points: Narada Falls, Reflection Lake, Indian Henry's Hunting Ground, Eagle Peak, Gobler's Knob Lookout Station, Tatoosh Range, Rampart Ridge, Spray Park, Klapatche Park, Paradise Park, Yakima Park, Ohanapecosh Park, Van Trump Park (where mountain goat may be seen), Summerland, Mowich Lake; numerous glaciers. MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK, about 55 miles from Tacoma (see Tour 8D), comprises 337 square miles of rugged moun- tains, forested valleys beneath towering crags, moving glaciers melting
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into turbulent streams; of broad ice fields and flowered mountain meadows, great cirques, and crevasses; refuge for abundant wild life. Marking the approximate center is the glistening dome of Mount Rainier, third highest peak in continental United States (14,408 alt.); its base covers almost one-fourth of the park area. Seen from a distance the mountain seems to be isolated, its great height dwarfing the Cascade Range on the east and the other neighboring mountains; although these peaks and mountain ranges themselves average 6,000 to 8,000 feet in altitude. The mountain, unlike Mount Fujiyama, is a truncated cone, approximately 2,000 feet of its top having been lost through an erup- tion ages ago. That the peak at one time reached almost 16,000 feet is evident from the inclination of the slopes and lava strata. When the top was blown off, a vast cauldron more than three square miles in area was formed—one of the great attractions of the mountain. In this cauldron two cinder cones developed, gradually grew together, and eventually rounded into the dome known as Columbia Crest, the high- est point on the mountain, which rises 285 feet above the jagged rim of the snow and ice-filled crater. Next in height are Point Success (14,150 alt.) and Liberty Cap (14,112 alt.). Feeble volcanic action was reported as late as 1843, 1858, and 1870; relatively weak steam jets are still found on the heights, and there are various hot springs around the base. Twenty-eight glaciers—16 of which have a downward flow—cling to the sides of the mountain, forming one of the country's most extensive glacier systems, with a spread of approximately 48 square miles. The six great primary glaciers, Nisqually, Ingraham, Cowlitz, Emmons, Tahoma, and Kautz, originate in the summit neve; the five secondary glaciers are born in snow-filled cirques at levels between 12,000 and 10,000 feet. Between these major ice flows, which average from 4 to 6 miles in length, are found 17 smaller ice fields or interglaciers. As the glaciers have melted back—the average recession is 70 feet per year— weathering has broken down the harsh canyon walls, so that the valleys below them broaden out and merge with the tablelands of the lower wedges. Here in high valleys and tablelands are found the great alpine meadows with their riot of wild flowers. Within the park the Transition Zone, characterized by heavy forest growths of Douglas fir, western hemlock, red cedar, and scatterings of maple, alder, western yew, and black cottonwood, reaches to elevations found at all the entrances and even as far as Longmire Springs, White River camp, and Ipsut Creek on the Carbon River road. Ferns, devil's- club, and skunk cabbage form rank growths; dogwood, trillium, white clintonia, and twinflower grow in abundance. The great forests provide a haven for black bear and many other animals. The band-tailed pigeon, northern spotted owl, western winter wren, and the Cooper chipmunk are frequently seen. The Canadian Zone, merging into the Hudsonian above and the Transition below, is the least distinct of all the park zones; yet certain points, such as Narada Falls on the Nisqually Road, Yakima Park on
the east, Mowich Lake on the northwest, and the glacier termini may be taken as arbitrarily marking its upper limits. The forests here, though dense, have smaller trees, of which the western white pine is the most common, with Noble fir, spruce, Alaska yellow cedar, and western hemlock. One of the picturesque plants is the goatsbeard moss, which forms great festoons on the trees. Undergrowth is thinner, and such plants as red and blue huckleberries, rhododendron, kinnikinnick, ever- lasting, and minulus flourish. The whistling marmot, Pacific beaver, varying hare, mantled ground squirrel, water ouzel, American black bear, Columbian black-tailed deer, and mountain beaver (aplodontia) are relatively common in both Transition and Canadian zones. At the upper edge of the forest belt and extending to the timber line, is the Hudsonian Zone, supporting such hardy trees as the mountain hemlock, alpine fir, and white-barked pine under favorable conditions. Pre-eminently the zone of flowered alpine meadows, which carry right up around the glaciers, this area is one of the most scenic in the park, generally most colorful during July and August. Some 300 species of flowers occur in this zone alone, of which the more noteworthy are the heathers, the glacier and avalanche lilies, valerian, Indian basket grass, Indian paintbrush, western anemone, speedwells, asters, lupines, and buttercup. In this zone the Clark's nutcracker is the most common bird, but the sooty grouse, the pine siskin, rufous hummingbird, and bluebird are also numerous. The cony, pack rat, marmot, jumping mouse, weasel, and pine marten are encountered frequently. The Arctic-Alpine Zone extends from the timber line toward the summit. In this region of wind-swept wastes and pumice fields, plant and animal life is limited to the most hardy, but the region presents a broad and interesting variety of herbaceous plants, among which are lupine and phlox and various saxifrages and grasses. A few junipers and arctic willow are found in sheltered locations. This zone is the habitat of the white mountain goat, the Rainier white-tailed ptarmigan, the pipit, rosy finch, and the pine siskin. Among occasional visitors are the Cascade fox, coyote, marmot, weasel, and marten; the juncos, hawks and eagles. In all, nearly 700 species of flowering plants, more than 100 species of birds, and 60 species of mammals are native to the park zones. The lakes and streams offer rainbow, Eastern brook, and cutthroat trout; there have been some plantings of Dolly Varden and Montana black- spotted trout. No attempt was made to explore the mountain until 1833, when Doctor William Fraser Tolmie of the Hudson's Bay post at Nisqually made»"a botanizing excursion" to the northwest corner of the park, reaching the base of the small peak, which, with the stream that issues from it, bears his name today. In 1857, 24 years later, Lieutenant A. V. Kautz, stationed at Fort Steilacoom, with two soldiers, the post doctor, and Wah-pow-e-ty, Nisqually Indian guide, made the first attempted ascent; they reached an elevation of 12,000 feet but were turned back by bad weather and lack of food. General Hazard Stevens and P. B.
Van Trump made the first successful summit climb on August 17, 1870. On October 17 of the same year Samuel F. Emmons and Doctor A. D. Wilson of the United States Geologic Survey made the second successful climb. Annually, since the park was opened, many climbers reach the summit. In 1884, James Longmire, pioneer, blazed a trail to Longmire Springs at the base of the mountain. This trail became a rough wagon road and over it came numerous other climbers in 1890 and 1891. Congress on March 2, 1899, created Mount Rainier National Park. Since the National Park Service was established as the administrative body in 1916, every effort has been made to preserve the natural beauty of the area, and to this end are dedicated the efforts of the park rangers, naturalists, and guides. PARK TOUR 1 Nisqually Entrance to Paradise Valley. 20 m. The Nisqually entrance to the park is marked by a huge log arch. Just beyond is the log checking station where park rangers issue auto- mobile permits (fee $1) for the calendar year; near by are rest rooms. Paralleling the Nisqually River, milk-white with rock flour eroded by Nisqually Glacier, the oil-macadam road winds through firs and cedars along the route of the old toll road constructed by James Long- mire in 1890-1. At 1 m. is a junction with the oiled West Side Highway (see Park Tour 1a). TAHOMA CREEK (2,120 alt.), turbulent when flooded with melting snows, is crossed on a six-foot cedar-log bridge at 1.2 m. The highway serpentines through the timber, offering now and then a glimpse of wooded hills beyond the river. Frowning darkly above the highway is FALLEN ROCK (approx. 2,270 alt.), 2 m., once a part of Tumtum Peak. At 3.4 m. is a giant Douglas fir, eight feet in diameter, called the Columbus Tree. Now more than 700 years old, this was a large tree when Columbus sighted the New World. KAUTZ CREEK (2,378 alt.), tumbling down from Kautz Glacier, swirls under a rustic bridge. Creek and glacier were named for Lieutenant Kautz, who, in 1857, first attempted the summit climb. At BEAR PRAIRIE POINT, 4.8 m., is parking space with a view of timbered Nisqually Canyon (L) and beyond a glimpse of Mount Rainier; right in the distance the TATOOSH (Ind. nourishing breast) RANGE sends up rugged crags around dominant Unicorn Peak (6,939 alt.). Bear Prairie near by was the starting point of the summit expedition led by General Hazard Stevens and P. B. Trump in 1870. At LONGMIRE, 6.6 m. (2,750 alt.), is the rustic administration building of the National Park Service. Beside the highway (R) are housekeeping cabins operated in connection with the Nat1onal Park
Inn, and across the Nisqually River is a free public campground oper- ated by the National Park Service. At the fork of the road is the Nat1onal Park Museum (open 8-9 summer months; 9-5 winter months; no charge), where are displayed specimens of the park's flora and fauna. Maps show trails marked in color, and small models illustrate the formation of Mount Rainier. The museum is the office of the park naturalist and his staff. Camp- fire programs and free lectures are offered nightly (except Sunday) at eight o'clock in the community house at the campgrounds. Hikes are outlined, and free hikes of from one to twelve hours' duration, to points of unusual interest, are scheduled weekly. Numerous trails radiate from Longmire. 1. EAGLE PEAK TRAIL, 3.5 m., E., leads through heavy forests to the Tatoosh Range. At two miles, the trail emerges into flower-strewn parks through which it winds toward the summit. From Eagle Peak, achieved by a rough trail, excellent views may be had of Mount Rainier, Paradise Valley, and the great domes of Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens far to the south. 2. RAMPART RIDGE TRAIL, 4 m., leads to the heights of the ridge but bears left to the highest point, the RAMPARTS (4,080 alt.). Up the moun- tain appears VAN TRUMP GLACIER, a pendant from an interglacier be- tween the Kautz and Nisqually. This glacier feeds Van Trump Creek, which flows down through the flowered park of the same name. The region of the Ramparts is noted for its cirques, moraines, rugged canyons, and waterfalls. 3. TRAIL OF THE SHADOWS, 0.5 m. S., is a popular short trip. Through the trees (identified by tags) the trail leads past Soda Springs and Iron Springs to the Longm1re Cab1n, sole remaining structure of the group erected in 1888 by Elcain Longmire, son of James Longmire, who founded the settle- ment in 1883. The trail continues on to the interesting beaver flats. 4. The RIVER TRAIL, 1 m. N., another popular short trip from Longmire, follows the west side of the Nisqually River, crosses by a foot bridge, which gives an unusual view of the river's course, and returns to Longmire. North of Longmire the mountain road, winding, curving, and switch- ing back along the valley of the Nisqually, reaches farther and farther into the clouds. At 7 m. is a junction with a trail. Left here 6.5 m. to INDIAN HENRY'S HUNTING GROUND (see Won- derland Trail, belo<w.) COUGAR ROCK (3,000 alt.), 8 m. (L), is a great boulder at the base of Rampart Ridge. At 10.9 m. the road bends, and lovely CHRISTINE FALLS comes into view. The falls was named for the daughter of P. B. Van Trump, who with Hazard Stevens, made the first successful ascent of the moun- tain in 1870. Left from Christine Falls a trail leads up Van Trump Creek, past COMET FALLS—which drops 320 feet—and BLOCHER FALLS, to VAN TRUMP PARK, 1.2 m., noted for its wealth of flowers. The trail continues left through increasingly timbered terrain along the crest of Rampart Ridge, then bears again left to drop down the side of the ridge to Longmire. Near the upper reaches of the valley the road, which has followed the west side of the river beneath timbered mountain flanks, crosses the boulder-strewn Nisqually River over a picturesque bridge at 11.9
m. To the left is the mighty NISQUALLY GLACIER, its blunt end marked by piles of gray and brown ice and debris around a huge ice cave, from which issues the river. (A turnout provides parking at this point; rest rooms are available). Left, a half-mile trail leads to the glacier's end, where the cave from which the river emerges can be more clearly seen: a great hole first carved out by the rush of the water. Originating in pure white snows 10,000 feet above on the mountain summit, the glacier undergoes many changes in color on its way down the gorge. Along its middle course snows, solidified into contorted masses through ages of melting and replenishment, are a rich indigo, lined with darker streaks—moraines that merge at the sides with marginal moraines of embanked debris, which in turn converge at the lower end. One of the greater glaciers of the peak, Nisqually is believed to have extended 1,500 feet farther down in its canyon as late as 1885. The Nisqually River emerges here, milky with its heavy load of eroded rock silt. From the bridge the road climbs steeply along the east side of the valley. Hills stand out against distant crags and peaks, and the view is a tumbled sea of mountain ramparts. RICKSECKER POINT (4,214 alt.), 13.4 m., looks out over the surrounding heights and valleys: the view of the Nisqually Glacier and the southern flare of the mountain is noteworthy. From CANYON RIM, 14.9 m. (4,400 alt.), is a panorama of the Nisqually Canyon (L) below sheer cliffs. The SILVER FOREST, 15 m., is a stand of fire-withered, gray tree trunks, a mournful reminder of the violation of fire regulations. However, over the area tiny pine, fir, and Alaska cedar again are taking root. NARADA (E. Ind. pure) FALLS (4,572 alt.) at 16 m. (R), plunging 168 feet into the Paradise River, is one of the most attractive cataracts on the mountain. Here is a junction with a cross-trail. Left to PARADISE VALLEY, 1.2 m.; R. to LONGMIRE, 3.7 m. (see above). WASHINGTON CASCADES, 16.6 m., in the Paradise River, bubble down over red and gray andesite rock, contrasting vividly with the green meadowland stretching through Paradise Valley. From INSPIRATION POINT, at 17.3 m., is obtained one of the finest impressions of the soaring peak—its flanks mottled with glaciers and icefields between dark pinnacles—above a broad valley, carpeted with flowered meadows and fringed with trees. The road now climbs the opposite foothills into PARADISE VAL- LEY (5,400 alt.), 20 m., at the very foot of the mountain, and Para- dise Inn, with its steep roof, looking like a tiny chalet, beneath the vast peak and the surrounding crags. At the inn the road branches left, and at the bend are the ranger station, rest rooms, and the guide house. Beyond the ranger station is the Trail Hub, from which the main trails radiate. The inn and the Sluiskin and Tatoosh winter dormitories around it form the center of the Paradise Valley winter-sports area. Here the snows lie as deep as 20 feet during the winter season, affording some of the finest ski terrain in the country. From Camp Muir, at an eleva-
tion of 10,000 feet, the skier may descend along hazardless courses to the valley. Ski schools are maintained, and each Sunday and holiday during the snow season, downhill and slalom races are held. On the higher levels, the snows hold throughout the spring and summer; winter sports are possible during the hottest part of the year. The road leads on to the Commun1ty House, public campgrounds, Paradise Lodge, and housekeeping cabins. The community house is the headquarters of Paradise naturalists, and lectures on the park are given nightly (including Sunday, 8 p.m.) ; hikes and trail trips are discussed. During spring and summer, short foot trips and saddle trail trips are popular. Daily (9-2) guides supervise short trips from the valley; longer trips, of a day's duration, are made twice weekly. Following are a few of the possible trail trips from Paradise: 1. ALTA VISTA TRAIL, 0.6 m., N., leads through fields of flowers to the eminence near the snow line, and almost directly in front of the inn. From Alta Vista, the entire valley and the peaks, each of which is indicated by a marker, are clearly visible. It is perhaps the best spot in the park to over- look the whole area. 2. MAZAMA (Ind. mountain goat) RIDGE TRAIL, 1 m., SE., is another short trail trip that displays the floral splendor of the mountain meadows to advantage. 3. SLUISKIN FALLS TRAIL, 1.2 m., NE., reaches the falls named by Stevens and Van Trump for their Indian guide, who aided them in making the first successful ascent of the summit in 1870. It was here that Sluiskin made his camp while waiting for the white men to enter levels he believed sacred. The falls plunge 300 feet to the river bed below—a diaphanous scarf of frosted blue and white between the basalt crags. 4. PARADISE GLACIER TRAIL, 1.5 m., NE, leads to the end of the glacier itself. This glacier originates, not at the summit as does the Nisqually, but in the snows on the lower slope at an elevation of about 9,000 feet. It is a typical interglacier, lying between Cowlitz on the east and Nisqually on the west. Relatively unshielded, the Paradise receives the full heat of the sun and* melts at a perceptible rate. In early summer it is a white blaze in the sun, but as the hot season lengthens, grayish patches—old ice of past seasons— are exposed. Small streams tumble down crevasses in the glacier's sides and drop to the glacier bed below. Uniting beneath the ice these streams, aided by warm air currents, yearly carve new and fantastic caverns and grottoes in the glacier's end. Here the Paradise River has its source. 5. REFLECTION LAKES TRAIL, 1.5 m., SE. (also reached by driving down the road two miles to parking area at junction with trail), leads through timber to a stretch of meadow surrounding the lake. The sweeping meadow- land is broken by scattered clumps of green pine; ragged spurs ascend to- ward the flanks of the central mountain, the white summit at times but a vague outline through enveloping mists. (The lakes are the only ones in the park where boating and swimming are available. Fishing is also good.) 6. The SKYLINE TRAIL (by saddle horse), 4 m., a loop trail, is the most popular saddle trip in this park. From the inn the trail leads around Alta Vista and the rim of the canyon at Glacier Vista (from which is obtained a superb view of Nisqually Glacier) upward by bends and switchbacks to Pan- orama Point (6,800 alt.). From this point the panorama of the Nisqually watershed and Paradise Valley unfolds. Crossing the ice along Timberline Ridge, one reaches and fords the Paradise River. Here the trail turns down Mazama Ridge, passes Sluiskin Falls, and returns to the valley and Paradise Inn. Other trail trips are: Nisqually Glacier, 1.2 m. W.; Glacier Vista, 1.2 m. N.; Sluiskin Monument, 1.6 m. NE.; Panorama Point, 1.8 m. N.; Faraway Rock, 2.5 m. SE.; Lake
Louise, 2.5 m. SE.; Pinnacle Peak, 3 m. SE.; Summit Climb (see Summit Cl1mb below). PARK TOUR 1 A Nisqually Road to the North Puyallup River, 15.1 m. One mile from the Nisqually entrance, the West Side Highway branches left and extends in a generally northern direction. MOUNT WOW (5,622 alt.), often called Goat Mountain, was a favorite hunting ground for Indian tribes years ago. The highway follows the course of tumbling Tahoma Creek, alder thickets giving way to stands of giant cedar and Noble fir. (Caution is needed on the sharp turns). At 2.7 m. looms the bald face of a gigantic cliff, its base heaped with the debris of rock slides. The course of FISH CREEK (moderately good fishing) (3,000 alt.), crossed at 3.9 m., is marked by numerous beaver dams. Mountain goats frequently are seen on the cliffs above. Tahoma Camp (3,100 alt.), at 4.2 m., is equipped with tables and fireplaces. Right here 3.5 m. on a trail to Ind1an Henry's Hunting Ground (see Won- derland Trail, below). Rising steadily the highway reaches TAHOMA VISTA (3,458 alt.), 5.4 m., which offers a fine view of the surrounding country. Here are comfort stations and a large parking area. Far to the right TA- HOMA and SOUTH TAHOMA GLACIERS cling to the side of the mountain. Tahoma Glacier, originating on the summit, sends its frozen flow almost in a straight line for five miles, only a comb of pinnacles separating it from the smaller South Tahoma Glacier, which rises in a cirque below Success Cleaver. At an elevation of 7,651 feet GLACIER ISLAND, a towering cliff-footed rock with dome worn smooth by centuries of ice action, divides the two; below the island the two streams again unite. South Tahoma, on its upper reaches, has formed ICE TERRACES resembling huge marble stairs. The first glimpse of the northwest slopes and ice fields of Mount Rainier on this route is at ROUND PASS (3,879 alt.), 6.9 m. Stone steps lead to a Lookout Stat1on with a superb view of Puyallup Glacier. Here is a junction with a trail: Left to LAKE GEORGE, 1.2 m., and GOAT LAKE, 3.7 m. on the eastern slopes of Mount Wow. Fishing is good at both places and camping spots plentiful. From Round Pass the highway winds downward to cross the south fork of the PUYALLUP RIVER (3,479 alt.), 8.3 m., named for a tribe known as Puyallupnamish, who lived along its course. At ST. ANDREWS CREEK (3,800 alt.), 11.2 m., are two trails: Left to two beautiful waterfalls; and right to KLAPATCHE PARK, 3 ra., and ST. ANDREWS PARK, 4.5 m. (see Wonderland Trail, beloio). KLAPATCHE POINT (4,117 alt.), on Klapatche Ridge, is reached at 12.4 m. Here cliffs reach skyward, and gray snags, vestiges
of a fireswept forest, mar the verdant foothills, beyond which rise Ta- homa Glacier and the cleaver dividing it from Puyallup Glacier on the north. On the left spreads a broad basin, with the Olympic Mountains in the distance; occasionally Puget Sound also may be seen from here. The road winds downward between great volcanic pillars to the NORTH PUYALLUP RIVER (3,707 alt.), 15.1 m., which heads from the base of the PUYALLUP GLACIER in a sculptured canyon with almost sheer basalt walls. Above the canyon at an elevation of 12,000 feet, the glacier rises in a great cirque in the Sunset Amphi- theater, whose perpendicular walls form the south base of Liberty Cap on the summit. From this volcanic bowl the glacier descends the moun- tain in a narrow gorge, is split by a rock wedge near its base, and spreads out to a mile in width, forming two joined ice lobes. On these great lobes are bizarre HANGING ICE CASCADES. The parking area here marks the end of the road, although eventually it may be extended from this point to the Carbon River entrance to the park (see State Tour 3C). Here is a junction with a cross-trail. Right 3 m. to KLAPATCHE PARK; and left 4.5 m. to SUNSET PARK (see Wonderland Trail, below). PARK TOUR 2 White River Entrance to Yakima (Sunrise) Pari. 16.9 m. The rugged country leading to Yakima Park is enthralling, with its endless array of jagged peaks and wooded foothills spreading upward into a sea of clouds that billow around the summits. From the junction of the park road with US 410, the highway descends gently for a mile through heavy timber to KLICKITAT CREEK (3,460 alt.), a tributary of White River. At 1.4 m. is the Check1ng Stat1on, where it is necessary to purchase park permits (fee $1) for automobiles. At 3.8 m. is a junction with the EAST SIDE TRAIL (see Pari Tour 4). Gradually ascending, the road crosses FRYINGPAN CREEK, an icy stream originating at the base of the eastern lobe of Fryingpan Glacier at an elevation of 6,000 feet. The road continues on practically level grade through timbered land. The WHITE RIVER, crossed at 5.4 m., is in the bed of a great valley gouged out by glaciers in the past; the steep V-shaped flanks of the ridges, deeply forested, reach from 1,000 to 2,000 feet to the barren serrated summits, which mark the valley like the edges of a great trough. Here is a junction with a side road. Left 0.7 m. to OLD WHITE RIVER CAMPGROUND, a public camping spot near a fork in the river. Two trails radiate from the camp, one to Emmons Glacier, the other to Yakima Park. From White River the highway climbs along an ever-deepening canyon, with walls that drop sharply away from the road. (Caution is advised). At various levels the sinuous route that has been traveled may be seen far below, often veiled by clouds, as the road bears northeast, then north along mountain flanks to cross YAKIMA CREEK, at
8.2 m., where water is available for overheated radiators. Here the road breaks out into scattered timber and flower fields. At SUNRISE POINT (6,120 alt.), 12.9 m., the most spectacular lookout point reached by road in the park, are rest rooms and parking space. Among the many peaks seen from here are Glacier Peak, Mount Adams, Mount Baker, and Mount Stuart. Several park trails converge at the point. Straight ahead to SUNRISE LAKE, 0.6 m. and CLOVER LAKE, 1.5 m. Rapidly gaining altitude, the highway leaves the zone of heavy forests and enters a sub-alpine area where the trees are more scattered and stunted and twisted by the winds. Beyond and to the left of Sunrise Lodge (cabin camp, rest rooms, service station, free camp and picnic grounds), at 15.4 m., is the Blockhouse, comprising park museum and ranger station. The lodge is in the center of Yakima Park, where broad flower-dotted meadows spread toward the foothills; dark blotches here and there indicate clumps of Alpine fir and pine. EMMONS GLACIER, largest in the United States, blankets the eastern slope of the mountain with formidable ice cascades five and one-half miles long and almost two miles wide. Its tremendous pressure has broken down part of the summit crater rim. This ice field was named for Samuel F. Emmons, geologist and mountaineer, who made the second ascent of the peak in 1870. To the left and separated from Emmons by sharp crags is the FRY- INGPAN GLACIER, which, with its interglaciers—Whitman and Ohanapecosh—unseen beyond, originates at a height of nearly 11,000 feet on the great triangular wedge extending down from Little Tahoma, the highest pinnacle on the eastern side of the peak. The Fryingpan, largest of the three, covers the eastern side of the flank and joins the Emmons at its apex. On the right of Emmons is WINTHROP GLA- CIER, extending toward the north. As at Paradise, the park naturalist gives nightly lectures (except Sunday; 8 p.m.) on flora and fauna and scenic points of interest at the Blockhouse. Supervised saddle trips are available, and short hikes (free) are given daily; trips of a day's duration are taken twice weekly. Many trail trips may be made from Yakima Park: 1. SOURDOUGH TRAIL, 2.5 m., NW, is an easy trail leading into the Sourdough Range toward the north where the terrain becomes steadily more barren, yet which offers worthwhile views of the mountain toward the south- west. At 1.3 m., in an almost barren region, is FROZEN LAKE (6,700 alt.), which serves as a reservoir for the Yakima Park water supply. A large bank of snow, the nearest perpetual snow to Yakima Park, lingers on the bank throughout the year. From the Lake the trail branches in three directions: one continues up to Burroughs Mountain; one to Mount Fremont, fire lookout station; and the other down the canyon to Mystic Lake and the Northern Loop trail (see Park Tour 3). 2. The DEGE PEAK TRAIL, 1.8 m., NW., leads through some of the most rugged terrain in the region. Almost as high as the Cascade Mountains, which average approximately g,ooo feet, the peak offers a superlative view of the range, the surrounding peaks, and Mount Rainier itself. 3. BERKELEY PARK TRAIL, 2.8 m., W., leads into flowering park lands
between Skyscraper Mountain, near which Huckleberry Creek heads, and the Burroughs Mountains, named after John Burroughs. 4. ST. ELMO'S PASS TRAIL, 6 m., SW., leads over Burroughs Mountain to a high level at the timber line (7,415 alt.), from which both Emmons and Winthrop glaciers are visible. The view of the Winthrop from this point is spectacular. A stream of ice descending from the summit snows is split by a great wedge of rock, Steamboat Prow, around which it breaks in great icy waves. The unevenness of the glacier's course has resulted in many cascades and domes, formed of resistant rock coated and re-coated with ice. Other trails include: Mount Fremont, 2.5 m., NW.; Clover Lake, 3 m., NE.; Glacier Basin, 5.8 m., SW.; Camp Curtis, 6.5 m., SW.; Summit Climb (see Summit Climb, below) ; the Wonderland Trail (see Wonderland Trail, below); Northern Loop Trail (see Park Tour 3). PARK TOUR 3 Carbon River Entrance to Junction with the Wonderland Trail, 6 m. One of the least frequented of the park entrances, nevertheless the Carbon River Entrance offers much in primitive beauty. There are few accommodations beyond rude cabin shelters along the trails; trails and road have been but slightly touched by man; there are no conces- sions—not even a filling station. At the entrance (1,800 alt.), no automobile permit is required, but visitors are requested to register at the Ranger Stat1on. Here fire permits, necessary if trail tours are contemplated, are obtainable. The road, winding among stately firs and cedars, is a tranquil, shaded land; mosses hang in veil-like folds from limbs and trunks of ancient trees and over wind-felled logs like a carpet. A rustic bridge spans RANGER CREEK (2,026 alt.), 3.1 m., which continues northward to join the Carbon River. From the bridge the road follows the right bank of the Carbon, climbing steadily. During the summer, when the glaciers melt most, the stream is a rushing torrent. IPSUT (Ind. bear) CREEK (2,500 alt), 5 m., is spanned by a wooden bridge, at the south side of which is a junction with several trails. Right to EUNICE LAKE, TOLMIE PEAK, AND MOWICH LAKE (see Wonderland Trail, below). At 5.5 m. is a junction with the Northern Loop Trail to Yakima Park. The NORTHERN LOOP TRAIL leads left up Spukwush Creek, rounding TYEE (Ind. chief) PEAK (6,030 alt.) into the Chenuis Mountains, source of the creek. Skirting the drab benchlands of the YELLOWSTONE CLIFFS on the southern fringe of the mountains, the trail reaches WINDY GAP, 5 m. , between the Chenuis and Crescent Mountains. Here is a junction with a trail leading left for one mile to the NATURAL BRIDGE, a 200-foot stone arch spanning the gorge along the western border of Mosquito Flat. The main trail continues down Van Horn Creek to the shelter cabin and ranger patrol station on the southern tip of LAKE JAMES, 8 m. The lake, almost round in shape, affords good fishing. To the north of Lake James, separated only by a narrow neck of land, is the slightly larger LAKE ETHEL, which has an outlet in the West Fork of the White River, where fishing, often better than in the lakes, may be found. The trail leads east from the lake down a heavily forested ridge to
WHITE RIVER, 10 m., then crossing the river, ascends the slopes, zigzagging back and forth through ever thinning conifers. Swinging south, away from rocky pinnacles, it enters the broad expanse of GRAND PARK (5,700 alt.), 14.5 m. This, the largest natural park area on the north side of the mountain, is a high plateau of relatively level land strewn with flowers and decked with groves of alpine fir and hemlock. From this elevation may be seen the Chenuis Mountains to the west; Mount Rainier to the south; and the Sourdough Mountains to the southeast. Many deer are found in this region. The trail drops down to GOLD BASIN, then starts climbing up LODI CREEK, a tributary of White River named by early prospectors in the vicinity. At the junction of trail and creek is AFFI FALLS, one of the prettiest cascades on this side of the park. South of the falls the trail follows the creek into BERKELEY PARK, 17 m., a region where trees are stunted but where daisies, columbine, larkspur, avalanche lilies, and anemones grow in profusion. The region south of the park grows more and more barren around FROZEN LAKE, 18.7 m. Here is a junction with a side trail, which parallels the narrow ridge of the Bur- roughs Mountains to the Wonderland Trail (see Wonderland Trail below). Southeast of Frozen Lake the trail descends through the barrens to YAKIMA PARK, 20 m. (see Park Tour 2). Heading southeast the road narrows, winding among trees that almost graze the fenders of intruding cars. At 5.9 m. is a Rust1c Camp- ground, where crudely fashioned logs provide rough tables; the clear- ing is suitable for an overnight stop. Near the camp is the Sl1de, hidden by a fringe of trees, where a great mass of rock has fallen from a crag. SIX-MILE CREEK, 6 m., is the end of the road. Here signs indi- cate the way to Mystic Lake, Spray Park, and the Wonderland Trail (see Wonderland Trail below). PARK TOUR 4 Ohanapecosh Entrance to (US 410) Cayuse Pass. 13 m. The Ohanapecosh Entrance, with numerous trails to scenic points, lakes and streams abounding with fish, and hot mineral springs, is popu- lar with hiker, fisherman, and health seeker. The road leads from the park boundary to the Ranger Stat1on, 1 m., where visitors must register. Here are public campgrounds amid scenery neither rugged nor charming. The Hot Spr1ngs (2,004 alt.), at I-7 m-, °^er mineral baths, Lodge, bathhouse, and cabins are clustered between the road and the Ohana- pecosh (Ind. deep blue water) River. The temperature of the hot springs, which have their source in the heated heart of Mount Rainier, ranges from no 0 to 1250 F. Several trails lead from the hot springs to lakes and scenic points. 1. COWLITZ DIVIDE TRAIL, 4.5 nr., NE., leads upward from the hot springs along the rough ridge of the Cowlitz Divide, which separates the valleys of the Ohanapecosh and the Muddy Fork of the Cowlitz River. In the upper levels the trail emerges from timber into a broad open park on the
southern summit of the divide (4,770 alt.). Here is a junction with the Won- derland Trail (see Wonderland Trail, below). 2. TWIN LAKES TRAIL, 6.5 m., NE., cutting through heavy stands of aged timber where game is abundant, rises steadily toward the rim of the Cascade Range. From an elevation of 5,000 feet, the lakes resemble twin emeralds resting in a deep nap of forest. The road continues northward for three miles along the west bank of the Ohanapecosh River to its confluence with LAUGHINGWA- TER CREEK and on to SILVER FALLS, 3.5 m., a beautiful cataract on the Ohanapecosh River. The deep green of the forest is reflected in the flying spray. A little beyond is CEDAR FLAT (2,300 alt.), one of the few remaining areas where tall red cedars stand untouched by man, scenting the air with their balsam. At 6.5 m. is a junction with a trail. Left here a short distance to OLALLIE (Ind. berries) CREEK, noted for its good fishing. The name was derived from the Indian tribes that, years ago, made camp in the vicinity to gather the plentiful blue huckleberries. WHITTIER CREEK is crossed at 7.9 m., and at 9 m. is STAF- FORD FALLS. In a broad timbered basin at 10.3 m. is a fork in the river marking the confluence of the Ohanapecosh and its tributary CHINOOK CREEK (3,124 alt.), which rises miles toward the northeast in Tipsoo Lake and flows southward through timbered ridges, merging with Kotsuck and Deer creeks in its course. The road crosses Deer Creek Br1dge at 11.4 m., near the junction of Kotsuck and Deer creeks. A Park Serv1ce Cab1n, 11.6 m., affords temporary shelter. Here is a junction with the East Side Trail. Swinging left along Kotsuck Creek, the trail reaches the picturesque cascades of HORSESHOE FALLS (5,000 alt.), where the waters plunge from their upper course near the southern base of Fryingpan Glacier. Constantly rising, the route enters GOATS PASS (5,300 alt.), at 2.1 m., between the glacier ridges and pinnacles and the tumbled foothills of the Cascades. From the pass the trail dips down into a small bowl in the mountain ridges to OWYHIGH LAKE (5,150 alt.), 2.5 m., named for the warrior chief of the Yakima. The trail continues below Tamanos Mountain through heavy timber to a junction with the White River Road at 6 m. (see Park Tour 2). At 12 m. the road enters a tunnel through the mountainside; beyond the tunnel it winds along the upper course of Chinook Creek to a junction with US 410 at Cayuse Pass, 13 m. (see State Tour 3c). SUMMIT CLIMB Paradise Inn to Summit of Mount Rainier, 8,908 ft. The climb requires approximately two days, with five to seven hours stop at Camp Muir. Parties usually leave between 1 and 2 p.m. and arrive at Camp Muir about 6 p.m. Guides are essential. Trip begun on clear day may end in storms at higher levels where 40-mile-an-hour gales are frequent. Equipment and guides are available at Paradise Inn. Equipment: Alpenstock or ice axe, amber glasses, calks, hobnails,
crampons, leather and wool gloves, grease paint for protection against sun glare, and ropes. Important: Eat only light vegetables, raw or boiled, and lean meats or beef tea prior to climb. Follow guide's advice on eating en route; experienced climbers use sugar for building energy. All climbers are required to register with a district ranger before starting and make a report of their success before leaving. As a matter of safety, climbers must be physically fit, more or less experienced, and have proper equipment and supplies. Qualified mountaineers are given permission to attempt the ascent without park guides. The ascent begins easily from Paradise Valley (5,557 alt.), and the pace is brisk through the grassland but slower on the climbs. As the grassy slopes of the trail recede, rough basaltic rocks of odd shapes and sizes appear. The route follows a winding course but holds steadily toward McCLURE ROCK (7,384 alt.), from which Paradise Valley and the great forests of the park appear spread out below. The rock was named to honor Professor Edgar McCIure, University of Oregon, who took barometric measurements at the summit in 1897 and met death in the descent. Light refreshment is permitted at ANVIL ROCK (9,584 alt.), where a fire lookout station stands a short distance from the main trail. From the lookout it is possible to see points 100 miles distant, but the view to the northwest is blocked by the mountain. The sun's rays beat down unmercifully, and hikers are reluctant to leave the shade of the rock. From here the trail leads over the rubble between NISQUALLY and COWLITZ GLACIERS, which have begun to change from white to light brown, as snow slowly mixes with eroded rock and soil. The ascent continues for about two hours to the next major stop. CAMP MUIR (10,000 alt.), in a saddle beneath Cowlitz Cleaver, about 4,000 feet above timberline, is reached about dusk. A heavier meal is eaten here before the hikers retire for the night. Provisions and fuel must be carried up from Paradise, and water is obtained by melting snow. Accommodations are simple but adequate. The ascent is resumed at one or two o'clock in the morning. There remains a climb of approxi- mately 4,400 feet to the crest—11 hours of continuous effort. At Camp Muir the route diverges from that pursued by General Stevens and Van Trump in 1870, which, until blocked by a 60-foot slide at Gibraltar Rock in the spring of 1937, had been the popular summit route. The new route crosses the ice fields of the upper Cowlitz Glacier and passes through Kadaver Gap in the CATHEDRAL ROCKS (8,262 alt.), an angular pinnacle of rough lava separating the upper Cowlitz and Ingraham glaciers. The course is difficult—a chal- lenge to any mountaineer—more so than the old route, and much longer. The INGRAHAM GLACIER, named for Major E. S. Ingraham, one of the mountain pioneers, originates at the summit and follows a deep trough down the mountain flank, its rough course resulting in numerous spectacular ice falls and cascades. Cathedral Rocks separates the Ingraham from the Cowlitz Glacier; at its base the two unite again. ,
The route swings upward, once the pinnacles of the great wedge separating the Ingraham Glacier from the Emmons on the north are reached. These tooth-like crags extend down the mountainside a dis- tance of five miles to end in the Cowlitz Chimney—a castellated forma- tion of rock that dominates the eastern slopes of the lower mountain. North of the line of crags the vast wedge carries three large inter- glaciers upon its back: Whitman, Ohanapecosh, and the Fryingpan. After hours of stiff climbing, the eminence of LITTLE TAHOMA (11,117 alt-) is attained,, the highest point on the eastern flank of the peak and the apex of the wedge spreading below. The steep, lava walls of the peak, in places 2,ooo feet thick, point upward at an angle probably indicating the former crest of the mountain, about a half-mile higher than the present summit. Almost continuous ice and snow fields make climbing difficult; high winds that sweep the rocky heights clean of snow are frequently encountered. Hidden crevasses are an ever- present danger; alpenstocks must dig in and crampons grip solidly for holds in the snow. As the summit is approached the scenery achieves a bewildering grandeur. On clear days the surrounding country, softened by distance, spreads out far below; on cloudy days only the higher peaks and pinnacles project above the cloud mass that fills the valleys. REGISTER ROCK (14,161 alt.), near the crown of the peak, offers a shelter against the whipping winds; here are metal cases where the successful climber may register his achievement. From the lee of the rock the snow-filled crater at the summit spreads out its mile and a half of drifts, mounds, and caverns. Little risk accompanies exploration of the crater, but care should be taken near the rim where slides may be precipitated. At three-eighths of a mile beyond Register Rock, COLUMBIA CREST (14,409 alt.), the highest tip of the summit rim, rounds 247 feet above the crater proper. In favorable weather the view from the tip of Columbia Crest or Peak Success is magnificent: the massive glacier tentacles extending downward appear truncated at their ends, where rivers burst forth and descend through the dark crags and green forest. In the middle distance appear the peaks of the lower Cascades, the serrated Olympics, and the Canadian Coast Range. The return to Paradise can be made in from four to eight hours from the summit. WONDERLAND TRAIL Circuit of Mount Rainier from Longmire, Approx. 100.5 m. Without side trips tour can be made in 7 days, but 10 days can be well spent to allow trips to outstanding points of interest. Equipment: Full outfit of hiking clothes—high-top boots, breeches, and heavy shirts —first aid kit, snowglasses, mosquito and sunburn lotion, light hand ax, sleeping bag, and food. Of all trails within the Rainier National Park the Wonderland Trail affords the greatest diversity of scenic grandeur; winding trails, dense forest, snow and ice fields, flowered alpine meadows, glacial
streams, soaring peaks, and ghost forest—all between elevations of 2,500 and 7,200 feet. From Longmire the trail gradually ascends through dense forest of fir and lodgepole pine. After crossing the silt-laden Nisqually River the trail ascends the crystal-clear Paradise River, passing CARTER FALLS and MAD-CAP FALLS at the base of Eagle Peak, northern end of the Tatoosh Range. Paradise , River is crossed a few hundred yards above Narada Falls in a setting of huge fir and small hemlock. Along the banks of the river rockfern grows in profusion. The trail swings east into the forested hills that mark the southern extremity of Mazama Ridge, then enters the STEVENS CANYON. At 12 m. the trail joins an incomplete road and skirts the south shore of REFLECTION LAKE, lying amid rank growths of wild flowers and fringed by clusters of blue huckleberry, with bright red and white blossoms. In many spots mountain polypody forms small brakes. (No license is required for fishing in the lake, which is tueJl stocked with Eastern brook trout). The trail swings east from the lake and approaches LAKE LOUISE, (4,890 alt.), a mile beyond, in a high saddle between Mazama Ridge and the Tatoosh Range. Here, too, the blue huckle- berry is prolific, the tall bushes drooping with their fruit in late sum- mer. The huckleberry was a favorite fruit of the Indians in days past, and many of the fires that occurred on the mountain are attributed to their efforts to clear a way for a greater spread of the bushes. In its course to the great U-shaped bottom of Stevens Canyon, the trail offers a view of the tumbling waters of MARTHA FALLS, 14.5 m. (3,110 alt.). Deer and black bear are met occasionally in the forest. Continuing its descent of the canyon, the trail turns directly toward Sylvia Falls. In quick succession MAPLE CREEK and STEVENS CREEK (2,730 alt.), 17 m., are crossed. Arching 100 feet above the turbid waters of the Muddy Fork of the Cowlitz River, in places but 20 feet wide, a horse and foot bridge spans the COWLITZ BOX CANYON, (3,040 alt.), 18 m. Tips of fir trees are level with the rail on either side of the bridge. A forest fire once laid waste 20 square miles of timber in this area, but in this moist level reforestation has been rapid. At NICKEL CREEK (3,300 alt.), 19 m., where shelter and patrol cabins are available, begins a difficult two-mile climb to the COW- LITZ DIVIDE (4,770 alt.). Provision should be made for drinking water, as there are no springs for approximately four miles. The trail winds by switchbacks through heavy timber to open parkland. At the crest of the divide the trail bears left. Straight ahead (R) a side trail descends the slope into OHANAPECOSH PARK and to the HOT SPRINGS, 2.5 m. (see Park Tour 4). Pursuing the spine of the divide through fragrant alpine meadows, affording splendid views of Rainier, the Cascades, and Mount Adams, the trail reaches INDIAN BAR, (4,150 alt.) 25.5 m., a great gravel bank near the head of the Ohanapecosh River, surrounded by cliffs and glaciers. A three-sided shelter, overlooking
WAUHAUKAUPAUKEN FALLS in a basin of flowers, is an ideal camping site. A corner of OHANAPECOSH PARK (5,500 alt.), is crossed at 26.5 m. This park is hedged by three glaciers: OHANAPECOSH on the south, FRYINGPAN on the west, and the SARVENT GLA- CIERS spreading their tentacles across the whole northern boundary. The trail is arduous along the higher ridges between Ohanapecosh Glacier and Ohanapecosh Park. It gains altitude and crosses the valley head beyond the timberland to pass through PANHANDLE GAP (6,900 alt.), which offers an unobstructed view in all directions. To- ward the north the road winding up Sunrise Ridge into Yakima Park is visible. From Panhandle Gap the trail drops down over large ice fields of Fryingpan Glacier (watch closely for trail markers during foggy weather) into SUMMERLAND (5,900 alt.), 29.5 m. This is a natural floral park, rugged and rocky, with dottings of alpine trees. An overnight stay at the shelter cabin is recommended, although mos- quitos will keep the visitor company. The trail, almost continually above the timberline, is rugged but allows sweeping panoramas of mountain ranges and views of Little Tahoma on the mountain rim above. As the trail drops along the course of the Fryingpan Creek, which rounds Goat Island Mountain, the scenery changes from alpine meadow to deep cedar and hemlock forest. The trail crosses a bridge over the Fryingpan and continues to White River Road. The White River Road is followed to another bridge, across which is the former site of the Old Wh1te R1ver Camp (4,600 alt.), 36.1 m. Left is a trail to the snout of EMMONS GLACIER, GLACIER BASIN, and BURROUGHS MOUNTAIN. The Wonderland route winds upward 2,200 feet, for a distance of three miles through timber, arriving at YAKIMA PARK, 39 m. (see Park Tour 2). This is the last place on the trail where sup- plies can be replenished. An overnight rest is usually taken here. From Yakima Park the trail ascends to a junction of trails near FROZEN LAKE, 41.1 m. Left a trail forks and climbs round the barren cliffs of BURROUGHS MOUNTAIN, where it swings left to GLACIER BASIN (5,900 alt.), a meadow on the mountain flank and, until a few years ago, the site of mining activity. Continuing (R) between two tablelike buttes, the Wonderland Trail descends 2,000 feet through open country, crosses a ridge through heavy timber, and approaches the crevasses of WINTHROP GLA- CIER, 44.8 m., second largest in the park. The cold breath of the ice mass chills the air. Rounding the discolored snout the route turns left, crosses the river bar, and ascends the west fork of the White River to MYSTIC LAKE (5,750 alt.), 47 m., lying in a high park be- tween Old Desolate and Mineral Mountains. The starkness of the domes seems to accentuate the blended colors of wild flowers. A shelter cabin and camp overlook the lake.
A side trail leads up the ridge between the lake and Moraine Park to points where great avalanches of snow are seen tumbling from WILLIS WALL (see below) during warm summer days. The main trail leaves Mystic Lake and ascends a low divide that offers a rare view of Willis Wall; it crosses the small upper stream of the West Fork of the White River to the base of Old Desolate and skirts it along the lower levels of flowered Mora1ne Park. Be- yond Moraine Creek, which the trail follows, is the rock-strewn ice of Carbon Glacier. At 49 m. is a shelter. Almost facing it is the rocky formation of GOAT ISLAND high above, which splits the lower flow of the glacier. Descending from the uplands of the park, the trail enters heavy woods and skirts bald cliffs, along the border of CARBON GLACIER (3,355 alt.), to its terminus at 50 m. The lowest per- petual ice field in the United States, Carbon Glacier rises in an amphi- theater-like cirque high on the mountain flank, gouged out and en- larged by the glacier itself beneath the dome of Liberty Cap. The upper wall of the cirque—Willis Wall—towers 3,600 feet above the great bowl, one and one-half miles across. From this wall, snows often 300 feet deep plunge down into this largest of the mountain cirques; it is a rare sight—magnificent and terrifying. The wall was named for Professor Bailey Willis, who explored the northern side of the mountain in 1881. In its lower reaches the glacier narrows to a mere snout a few yards wide but approximately a mile in length. It ends in a great canyon and gives birth to the Carbon River in a sculptured ice cave. Crossing the rocky bed of the Carbon River the trail joins the CARBON RIVER ROAD at 54 m. (see Park Tour 3), where there is a shelter cabin. From the junction, the trail continues straight ahead, then dips down and crosses CATARACT CREEK; bearing right be- low the walls of the ECHO CLIFFS, it follows the wooded gorge between the foothills of Mount Rainier and MOTHER MOUNTAIN (6,840 alt.), through which the creek flows. At 55.5 m. the trail crosses MARMOT CREEK, so named for the abundance of whistling marmot in the vicinity, to CATARACT FALLS, veiling the surrounding woods with its mist. The trail con- tinues along Marmot Creek, zigzagging back and forth through heavy forest. Near three tiny bodies of water it veers right and enters the upper section of MIST PARK, a meadow of flowers that extends from the trail toward the slopes of Mother Mountain. Rocky uplands, dotted with occasional ice fields, are encountered at 56 m. Foggy weather is not unusual here, and stone cairns, the only markers of the route, should be closely followed. On reaching an eleva- tion of 6,700 feet the trail swings right and down the slopes to SPRAY PARK, 62 rn., famous for its flower fields and magnificent views. Here, beside a small lake, is a choice camping spot. Two excellent side trips by unmarked trails are possible from the camp: Left 4 m. over rock and snow to OBSERVATION ROCK for good views;
3 H1. by a shortcut through Knapsack Pass to Mowich Lake. From Spray Park the trail passes HESSONG ROCK (6,149 alt.). Another trail leads left to the thundering waters of SPRAY FALLS, 0.3 m. Below the falls to the point where Spray Creek joins the Mowich River, fishing is excellent. Bearing right the trail leads on to the benches of EAGLE CLIFF (5,300 alt.), 63 m., where the western ramparts of the mountain, the varicolored slopes of the park, and the timbered heights of Ptarmigan Ridge stand out clearly. Below the cliffs are the abandoned shacks and workings of a former mining camp. Timber becomes heavier, largely cedar, fir, and hemlock, as the trail continues downward to cross Lee Creek and lead northward to a ranger cabin (telephone service) and campsite at the southern tip of MOWICH (Ind. deer) LAKE (4,950 alt.), 65.5 m. Rude tables of split logs and a camp stove are the only facilities. The lake affords good fishing. The trail winds southward through the high, heavily timbered levels east of Paul Peak, then drops down by easy grades to the NORTH MOWICH RIVER, 69.5 m. Here is a junction with a trail. Right 3 m. to MEADOW CREEK and the western boundary of the park at the MOWICH ENTRANCE (see State Tour jc), dedicated September 2, 1933. At 70 m., midway between the North and South Mowich Rivers, in a delta formed by their confluence, is a shelter cabin that may be used as a base from which to take fishing expeditions to both rivers. At 70.5 m. the SOUTH MOWICH RIVER is crossed, the course continuing through wooded ridges to descend into the region of the GOLDEN LAKES, 74.8 m., the heart of SUNSET PARK, a richly flowered area. A ranger patrol cabin (telephone service) and a shelter cabin stand on the shore of the group of lakes. Campsites on the lakes offer spectacular views. Leaving Sunset Park, a mile of flowered meadowland is crossed before the trail descends through timber to the NORTH PUYALLUP RIVER, 80.5 m., at the end of the West Side Highway (see Park Tour 1 A). From the camp HANGING GLACIER, a great pendant of Tahoma Glacier, is visible. After crossing the bridge, the trail climbs through heavy timber along Klapatche Ridge to another alpine flower bed, KLAPATCHE PARK (5,500 alt.), 83.5 m. A shelter cabin offers limited overnight accommodations. The park affords views considered among the best in the park, not only of the peak itself, but far to the west the great mass of the Olympic Mountains. Keeping to the higher levels the trail attains ST. ANDREWS CREEK, where there is a patrol cabin; then follows along its course to the SOUTH PUYALLUP RIVER, 87.5 m., and the West Side Highway. It springs upward from the highway over Emerald Ridge and through ROUND PASS (3,879 alt.), with a notable view of the canyon and the river rushing through the wild gorge. Beyond, sweep- ing toward the westward horizon, is a wild sea of green hills. At Tahoma Creek (good fishing), the trail bears left and follows the creek to its source at the lower tip of South Tahoma Glacier. Swing-
ing across the stream by a bridge, bench lands are followed into Ind1an Henry's Hunt1ng Ground (5,300 alt.), 93 m., one of the prettiest alpine gardens in the park, set amid the studding peaks of Iron Mountain, Crystal Mountain, and Pyramid Peak, where mountain goats are numerous. A shelter cabin and ranger patrol cabin are set in the midst of the flowered meadows. Several trails of interest radiate from this point. Left a half-mile to the MIRROR LAKES, where photographers find the most nearly perfect mountain reflections in the park. Right here one mile to the meadows of Pyramid Park. Right about a half-mile to MOUNT ARARAT (5,300 alt), a great knoll, easily accessible. From Indian Henry's the trail bears around the south side of Iron Mountain, through fields of avalanche lilies and heather, to the shore of SQUAW LAKE (5,000 alt.), 84 m., dips down through timber line and crosses DEVIL'S DREAM CREEK, a veritable inferno on hot days. Continuing downward, the trail crosses Pyramid and Kautz creeks, less than a mile apart, at 97.5 m. Abruptly the trail rises and climbs Rampart Ridge (3,800 alt.). At the summit is a junction with two side trails. Left 3.5 m. to VAN TRUMP PARK. Right 0.7 m. to the RAM- PARTS, highest point on the ridge. On this ridge for four miles stretches an unbroken "field" of "deliciosum" (sweet bilberry), finest of all the huckleberries, as the black bears all know; for they climb to its essential high altitude to feast on the delicious purple harvest. From the crest of the ridge the trail descends through two miles of timber and thickets to LONGMIRE, 100.5 m. (see Park Tour 1). Olympic National Park Season: Open year round but climatic conditions in winter often make the trails impassable. Officials at headquarters advise of conditions at all times. Administrative Offices: National Park Service Headquarters for Olympic Na- tional Park, Port Angeles. Visitors are advised to secure detailed information when planning trips. Registration: At first ranger station in Olympic National Park to secure fire permit or register destination. Transportation: Olympic Peninsula is easily reached from Seattle, Tacoma. Hoquiam, Olympia, and Victoria and Vancouver, British Columbia, and other Northwestern cities. Ferry service on regular schedules is available from Seattle and Edmonds across Puget Sound to Port Townsend and Port Ludlow and from Victoria, British Columbia, to Port Angeles. Loop tour encircles peninsula, be-
ginning five miles west of Olympia; here US 101 swings north from junction with US 410, passes through Hoodsport and Port Angeles and skirts the south shore of Lake Crescent (only place where highway touches park). (See Tour 9). Trails: Trails lead into and through park from ends of stub approach roads; the trails are narrow but safe and passable for both saddle and foot parties; trailside shelters are found at many camp sites. Guide Service and Horses: Guide services and saddle and pack horses may be obtained from resorts or ranchers at the end of stub roads at Olympic Hot Springs, Whiskey Bend, Sol Duc Hot Springs, Hoh River, North Fork and East Fork of Quinault River, Skokomish and Dosewallips Rivers. Accommodations: Excellent hotel accommodations and housekeeping cabins, under Government supervision, are available at Olympic Hot Springs on Boulder Creek; and housekeeping cabins at Sol Duc Hot Springs. Swimming pools with water from springs are available at both places. Two chalets, accessible only by foot or horseback, are operated within park under Government supervision; one at Low Divide in the central part of park and the other at Enchanted Valley on East Fork Quinault River; chalets offer good accommodations and are excellent base camps. Good hotels, inns, and camps, within the park include several on Lake Crescent, Lake Quinault, and one at Graves Creek, overlooking East Fork Quinault River, all privately owned and operated, but under Government super- vision. Numerous resorts, hotels, and camping facilities along US 101 and on stub roads outside of park. National Park Service operates free auto campground, with simple accommodations, at Jackson Ranger Station, and Sol Duc Hot Springs. There are camps at La Poel Resort, Elwha River, Olympic Hot Springs, Graves Creek, Staircase on Lake Cushman; Altair and Elwha camps on Elwha River, and Muncaster and July Creek camps on Lake Quinault. Climate, Clothing, and Equipment: Evenings are cool, and there is considerable snow on trails as well as frequent rain in winter. Clothing should be warm and loosely fitting, tweed preferably for all-round use; hobnailed or calked shoes are advised, and alpenstocks, colored glasses, and face paints for the snowfields. Medical Service: Available at Port Angeles, Forks, Hoodsport. Communication Service: Post offices at Quinault, Port Angeles, Forks, Hoods- port, and Ovington on Lake Crescent. Telephone communication to all sections of park is available from inns, ranger stations, and from park headquarters in Port Angeles. Special Regulations: Hunting is prohibited. For fishing, County or State license is required; State license for residents, $3, nonresidents, $5; County license for nonresidents, $3. Permits are required for building fires in other than established auto camps; garbage should be deposited in receptacles and fires be completely extinguished before leaving camp. No smoking is allowed on trails. Firearms are not allowed on Government lands; dogs and cats are allowed when on leash or otherwise confined. It is unlawful to pick flowers or shrubs, or to carve initials or otherwise deface anything in park. Feeding bears is prohibited. (Because bears search out food ruthlessly, pro- visions should be suspended from trees in covered receptacles, well out of reach). Complete regulations are posted in superintendent's office and at ranger stations. Fire guards and park rangers in various sections are always glad to assist campers. OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, an area of more than 800,000 acres in the center of the Olympic Peninsula, is a wilderness of virgin forests, precipitous canyons, and alpine meadows, from which emerge lofty mountain peaks with shining glaciers and vast snow fields. With the surrounding Olympic National Forest, the region is one of the few great areas of primeval beauty left in the United States, and its
unique rain forests are as spectacular as the inchoate mass of its mountains. In 1774, Juan Perez, a roving Spanish sea captain sailing up the coast, sighted the snowy pinnacles of the Olympics against a blazing blue summer sky. He named them Cerro de la Santa Rosalia, but this euphonious name was not destined to last; 14 years later Captain John Meares, in command of a British barkentine off the Washington coast, declared the mountains a fit home for the gods and named the highest peak Mount Olympus. There seems to be no exact record of the first ascent of Mount Olympus. A report made in Steel Points, published at Portland, Oregon, in July 1907, states that Henry D. Cook and B. F. Shaw, members of a private exploring exped1tion, accompanied by two Indians, climbed the peak in July 1854. In the park superintendent's files is a sketch of one of the earliest expeditions into the park area; in 1890 a com- pany of picked men, headed by young Lieutenant Joseph P. O'Neil, blazed their way from Hoodsport up past Lake Cushman and on up the North Fork of Skokomish River to the East Fork of the Quinault, enduring severe hardships as they forged through great forests where no trails existed. The park was created June 29, 1938, when the Wallgren Bill established a national park of 643,000 acres and empowered the President to increase the area to 892,000 acres. By order of President Roosevelt, 187,411 acres were added on January 3, 1940, making a total of 837,411 acres or approximately 1,308 square miles. Additional land, with an outlet on the Pacific, is being acquired. The policy of keeping this park in a primitive state is being strictly maintained; mountain trails, no more than 18 inches wide except in dangerous places, log bridges spanning mountain rivers, and shelter cabins with split-spruce bunks and stone fireplaces will be the only marks of man. But the dense vegetation and rugged terrain make it easy to keep the park a wilderness. The finest example of the magnificent rain forests are found in the lower valleys of the western slopes, where great stands of Douglas fir, western hemlock, western red cedar, and silver fir grow to gigantic size and height. Temperate climate, winter rainfall, and other conditions favor a tropic luxuriance in both trees and undergrowth. The fallen trunks of enormous trees become nourish- ment for seedlings that take root upon them, and thus new trees con- tinually replace the old. Great festoons of moss hang from the tower- ing trees, and the ground in some places is an almost impenetrable tangle of fern, vine maple, and other jungle-like growth. The Olympic Mountains arise in their splendid confusion about the center of the park, encircled by a belt of evergreen forest 50 miles wide and more than 200 miles in circumference. Here are no ordered ranges, but instead a vast pile of rugged rock and snow-covered knife- like peaks, varying in elevation from 3,000 to 8,000 feet, the height of Mount Olympus. Numerous mountains that have been explored are nearly as high as Olympus, and there are others yet to be climbed
and named. In places the mountainsides drop almost vertically for more than 3,000 feet, and from the tops of these sheer stone cliffs flow hundreds of filmy Waterfalls fed by melting snows. More than 50 glaciers, with approximately 36 square miles of ice and snow fields, drape the peaks, among them some of the largest and best-formed glaciers in the United States. Those on Olympus are par- ticularly remarkable, one of the most interesting and beautiful being the Blue Glacier, which is really a clear blue. Here the climber, mak- ing his way over the rugged terminal moraine, may observe, wherever the bedrock is exposed, deep grooves in the striated surface, the marks of the glacier when it filled the valley to a lower altitude. On the upper glacier where the slope becomes steep, the ascent is made over fields of ice and snow and ledges of glaciated rock to vantage points along- side and above the rugged and picturesque ice-fall. From these points may be viewed the broadly sweeping curves of the medial and lateral moraines and lines of flow in the ice, the curves of the glacier high in the cirques or ice-pockets near the summit; and crowning all, too steep to retain a mantle of ice and snow, the cliffs, the knife-edge crests, and jagged pinnacles of rock that rise between and above the ice-pockets. Upon nearly every high peak several glaciers are slowly grinding down the rugged sides; at the same time they are receding and form- ing rivers of ice, the headwaters for the principal streams in the park. Within this glacial field are yawning crevasses and great boulders shielding columns of ice from the summer sun; there are smaller rock fragments sunk in deep wells and pits beyond reach of sunlight; silvery streams of melted ice and snow, plunging from shallow channels into the deep roaring moulins or devil's cauldrons; and above are the lonely pinnacles of rock and ice. WILD LIFE ZONES Because elevations in the park rise from about 300 feet in the river valleys, four climatic zones are represented. Great variation in rainfall also helps to produce diversity in the vegetation. In sharp contrast to the excessive rainfall on the western slopes of the peninsula, the average annual rainfall at Port Angeles is 27 inches, at Sequim, 16 miles east, but 17 inches, and farmers in the Dungeness Valley have to irrigate. Thus within a radius of 50 miles is found one of the heaviest rainfalls in the United States and the driest area on the Pacific Coast, exclusive of southern California. In the transition zone, extending up to 1,500 feet, the profusely flowering plants are at their best, and along the shaded trails are mag- nificent Douglas firs, the dominant trees in this zone. Associated species are also found here—the western hemlock, western red cedar, western white pine, and white fir. Wild flowering plants include the Oregon grape, red huckleberry, salmonberry, salal, vine maple, wild straw- berry, buttercup, Solomon's seal, trillium, and dainty yellow violets. The most noticeable ferns are of the western sword, bracken, and deer
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species. This zone is favorable to the growth of the rain forests, par- ticularly in the Hoh and Bogachiel valleys. Here warm air currents from the Pacific strike against the colder reaches of the Olympics, and the precipitation is unusually heavy; most of the annual 144 inches falls as snow and during the winter rainy season. Douglas and silver firs, western hemlock and red cedar grow to remarkable size and height. The towering trees, heavy with hanging moss, and the lush undergrowth give the impression of a tropical forest. In the summer the valleys are very beautiful, with sunlight and shadow falling in fascinating patterns through the green, moss-draped trees. In the Canadian zone, where elevations range from 1,500 to 3,500 feet, the silver fir is noticeable, with a sprinkling of western white pine, Douglas fir, and western cedar. Beside the trail or in a little meadow one finds species of bunchberry or Canadian dogwood, alpine beauty, twinflower, tway blade, and tiarella. As the elevation increases, the groups of trees diminish in both number and size. The Hudsonian zone is the ending of the heavily timbered area, but here, at elevations from 3,500 to 5,000 feet, are found the most de- lightful mountain meadows. The conifers include mountain hemlock, Alaskan cedar, alpine fir, and some scattered mountain juniper. Shrubs vary from mountain ash to white heather, pink heather, false huckle- berry, and spiraea. Sprinkled in the mountain grass and sedge meadows are the avalanche lily, buttercup, blue violet, shooting star, western anemone, valerian, languid lady, arctic lupine, monkey flower, ele- phant's trunk, aster, larkspur, and the lovely blue gentian. Wild flow- ering plants are at their best during late July and early August. In the Arctic-Alpine zone the elevation begins at 5,000 and con- tinues to nearly 8,000 feet. Those who follow switchback trails to these altitudes are rewarded by the sight of the plants and sedges above the upper limit of tree growth. Outstanding plants are the Alaska spiraea, mountain phlox, bluebell, goldenrod, sedge, and lady fern. One of the principal reasons for establishing the Mount Olympus National Monument in 1909—now part of the Olympic National Park—was to insure protection for the largest remaining herd of Roosevelt elk, native to the Olympic Peninsula. There are more than 3,000 of these magnificent animals within the boundaries of the park. In the winter they browse and forage in the lower valleys and along the watersheds; in the summer they follow the melting snow line into high country. Park rangers and numerous visitors report that scattered bands of elk are often seen cooling themselves on the vast snow fields on hot summer days, and bands of elk, sometimes numbering 15 to 60, are commonly seen watering at some river bottom or crossing the alpine meadow. The cougar, Columbia black-tailed and Rocky Mountain mule deer, the mountain goat, black bear, Olympic mountain lion, and northwest- ern wildcat also live in the park. The deer, related to the elk family, move, like the elk, from the valleys and river bottoms to high country in the summer months, following the melting snow line. Black bears
are seen most often in late fall in the high country where they feed on patches of blueberry, a major part of the bear's diet at this season of the year; they also feed on fish, roots, herbs, and bark. Among the smaller animals are the Pacific fisher, mink, raccoon, beaver, skunk, marmot, varying hare, chipmunk, squirrel, and the so- called mountain beaver, which is not a beaver. A most exciting experi- ence for the hiker in the wilderness is to see the big brown eyes of a fawn or doe, watching motionless from behind some undergrowth. At certain times of the year, and especially in the early morning or at dusk, the hiker or horseback rider will see deer, numbering from 5 to 75, standing knee-deep in a quiet pool or stream, drinking. Many birds, ranging in color from drab brown to the brightest hues, and in song from mysterious hoots and whirs to lilting melodies, are found throughout this primitive land. Most often seen are the sooty grouse, Oregon ruffed grouse, great blue heron, western red-tailed hawk, bald eagle, belted kingfisher, red-shafted flicker, Stellar's jay, Canadian jay, raven, crow, chickadee, water ouzel, towhee, robin, wren, varied thrush, pine siskin, rufous hummingbird, Clarke's nut- cracker, American sparrow hawk, great horned owl, goshawk, Cooper's hawk, pine grosbeak, slate-colored Junco, and golden-crowned kinglet. The fishing is excellent. Splendid catches of cutthroat, rainbow, and Eastern brook trout and Montana black spots are made in the icy mountain streams and lakes. In Lake Crescent, a 14-mile-long body of water deep blue in color (see Tour gc), are found the famous Beardslee trout, native to the lake, defined by ichthyologists as land-locked steel- head. These fish sometimes weigh from 12 to 14 pounds. The steelhead, gamest of fish, is also found in several of the rivers. TRAILS Consistent with the National Park Service policy of maintaining this area as a primitive wilderness, the trails are rustic and meander- ing. The Master Plan for the long-time development of the area shows that one day there will be a network of trails which the hiker or horseback rider may follow to almost every section of the park. Certain areas, however, will be kept free from any work of man. The main approaches to the park are along stub roads following the larger water- sheds. The hiker enters the ELWHA TRAIL at the guard station. Around him are towering trees, making a soft murmur much like that of the near-by river. There is a sweeping bend in the trail, and suddenly far below is the rushing ice-cold water of the Elwha River, which has its source in the central part of the park. The trail winds along an easy grade and bears away from the river down into the rich green flat where the Lillian River flows toward the Elwha. Here is found a cedar-shake shelter cabin with table, benches, and fireplace. Crossing the bridge the hiker climbs steadily for several miles, with a view of the forested slopes of Bailey Range to the right, across the valley. Then the trail suddenly falls into a refreshing green meadow, and the log-framed
Elkhorn Guard Station comes into view. The trail follows along the river through grass-covered Press Valley, an expanse almost level for more than a mile. Five miles past Elkhorn, Hayes River Ranger Sta- tion and public shelter stand near the bank of the river. From this point, a trail branches off to the left, leading up over Hayden Pass and down to Dose Meadow, Camp Marion, and the Dose Forks at the eastern boundary of the park. At Chicago Camp, 25 miles from the end of the road at Whiskey Bend, the trail branches right into the Queets country, through the Elwha Basin and to the source of the Elwha River in Dodwell-Rixon Pass, and left or south toward Low Divide. It is but a short distance south into Martin's Park, with its lovely Lakes Mary and Margaret, and to the chalet at Low Divide in the central portion of the park, an excellent base camp for hikes into the Mount Olympus section. It is possible to ascend in a one-day trip from here to Mount Seattle, Christy, or Meany. At the divide the lush valleys and flowers and snow- capped pinnacles are reflected with mirror-like clearness in numerous little lakes. From Low Divide to the end of the trail at the North Fork Quinault Guard Station is a 15-mile hike downhill, most of the distance through majestic stands of virgin timber. The DUCKABUSH TRAIL is a route to test the mettle of the seasoned hiker. Leaving the end of the Duckabush road, the trail begins almost immediately to climb over Little Hump and then into a broad valley, bounded on the north by Mount Jupiter. Crossing rock ledges, one moment near the turbulent river, then high over the waters racing through canyons, the traveler nears the Big Hump, with its 89 switch- backs. Half-way up the Big Hump an excellent view may be had of St. Peter's dome. While the trail is generally upgrade for the remainder of the distance to the 17-mile shelter, it follows a gradual slope. Some of the finest trees to be found in the park are here, including the spreading yew and the lovely amabalis fir. At the 17-mile shelter is the junction of the Duckabush Trail with one coming up from the North Fork of the Skokomish, the two trails merging for the route to Marmot, Heart, and La Crosse lakes, one of the most beautiful regions in the park. Side trips may be taken to ridges above Marmot Lake to O'Neil Pass, thence around the basin of O'Neil Creek and along a ridge high above Enchanted Valley (where Lake Quinault and the distant ocean shore may be seen on clear days) to the junction of the trail with the East Fork Quinault and Anderson Pass trails. DOSEWALLIPS TRAIL begins at the end of the Dosewallips road, 18 miles from Brinnon, and leads through forests of tall Douglas fir along the river to Dose Forks shelter. From here the North Fork takes an easy climb up past Camp Marion and Dose Meadows shelter to snow-covered Hayden Pass, thence down into the Elwha Valley at Hayes River; while the West Fork leads to Honeymoon Meadows shelter, Diamond Meadows, and Anderson Glacier, before going down Anderson Pass to Enchanted Valley. SOLEDUCK TRAIL begins at the end of the road one and one-
half miles beyond Sol Duc Hot Springs. Probably the finest high- country view in the Olympics is offered from points along this trail. It winds through forests and across little streams for three-quarters of a mile to Soleduck Falls, thence six and one-half miles to Bogachiel Peak Lookout Station, from which point is an unsurpassed view of the Olympics. Here, within a short distance, is the source of the Boga- chiel River. Off to the north may be seen the blue waters of the Juan de Fuca Strait and westward the Hoh River Valley and the ground swells of the Pacific. It is two miles by trail down to Hoh Lake, and five miles over a switchback into the beautiful Hoh Valley and to the Olympus Guard Station. HOH VALLEY TRAIL is enchanting, winding for nine miles through dense rain forest. The watershed of the Hoh River, a glacial stream, receives fully 85 per cent of the Mount Olympus drainage; consequently, it is not only the largest river in the Olympic Peninsula, but it maintains a more even flow of water throughout the year. From US 101, the Olympic Loop Highway (see Tour g), a stub road leads 18 miles to the Jackson Ranger Station, where the trail begins. In places off the trail the moss is easily six inches deep, soft as the richest rug. The path, under great trees festooned with moss, is flecked with mingled shadow and sunlight. Below, on the right, the winding Hoh River shimmers with countless diamond points of light. The gay notes of birds are the only sounds heard above the soft southwesterly wind riffling the tops of Douglas firs, old when William conquered England. Beyond the rustic silhouette of Olympus Guard Station, the winding trail leads to Canyon Creek bridge three and one-half miles beyond, where the glacier-fed waters of the Hoh roar more than 200 feet below in the deep, narrow gorge. Three miles farther on is Glacier Meadows, base camp for those who wish to climb Mount Olympus. From the edge of these spreading alpine meadows the trail winds up toward Blue Glacier. Care should be taken to rub on sunburn grease, adjust cramp- ons, and don colored glasses for protection against the glare of the ice and snow. When the ascent of the moraine to the glacier's edge is being made, climbing ropes are necessary. The trail follows a zigzag course to the snow dome, then an abrupt right turn is made through large, scattered rocks and on up over continuous fields of ice and snow. Mountaineers should be alert at all times for hidden crevasses. As the climb becomes steeper, alpenstocks come into valuable use and cramp- ons search for solid footing. A steady breeze is almost invariably present at this altitude. The top is approached along a semicircular route, coming up from under the base of the final pinnacle to its opposite side and up steep rock for the last few hundred feet to the crest of West Peak. Here is the superlative lookout over the peninsula. On a clear day the mountain climber can see in the distance the waters of the Pacific, the Juan de Fuca Strait, and the shores of Vancouver Island; Mount Rainier to the southeast, and the vast panorama of the Olympics all around him.
From the end of the road one and one-half miles beyond the public campground on Graves Creek, East Fork Quinault, the ENCHANT- ED VALLEY TRAIL follows steep hillsides down into a deep, green gorge, where the Quinault River flows toward the ocean. The gorge is spanned by a log bridge and, after a short climb through heavy growths of Douglas fir, drops into a meadow shaded by thick growths of vine maple and fir. The trail follows the meandering river for 13 miles, over numerous small creeks, to Enchanted Valley Chalet and shelter. The Enchanted Valley, lying at the foot of a cliff that drops almost vertically for 3,000 feet, is often referred to as the Valley of a Thousand Waterfalls. The trail continues for approximately four miles up easy switchbacks—though steep in places—to the vast snow fields at Anderson Pass. Here one may look down to the headwaters of both the Dosewallips and the East Fork Quinault Rivers. Puget Sound Tours Puget Sound, an inlet connected with the Pacific Ocean by Juan de Fuca Strait, is a blue-green placid sea, 2,000 square miles in extent, guarded east and west by snow-capped mountains. Its sinuous arms embrace wooded peninsulas and isles and penetrate more than 100 miles into the heart of the State, to form a hundred navigable waterways and as many natural harbors. Its shores, directly on the Great Circle route to the Orient, are dotted with world ports. On local wharves, Japanese silk and soy beans are exchanged for fruit, grain, and forest products; in secluded coves, straining winches of ocean tramp ships whine within sound of axes ringing in the forests. More than a score of islands, varying in size from Whidbey Island (see Tour 8C), second largest in the United States, to spots of land a few acres in area, lie in Puget Sound. Northward are the San Juan Islands, an archipelago of 172 islands on the edge of the Sound, and often considered a part of it. A few of the isles dotting the Sound have commercial importance; others, much smaller, are suitable only for limited agriculture, private residences, or resorts. Some have trans- portation facilities or bridges connecting with the mainland. Extending southwesterly from lower-Sound, in the shadow of the Olympic Moun- tains, is long, fjord-like Hood Canal (see Tour go). Ages before adventuring prows broke the waters of the Sound and axes cleared portions of its shores, this section of the earth's crust had
6o8 WASHINGTON undergone many changes. The Cascade Mountains were slowly raised out of the ocean, forming between themselves and the Rockies broad half-tropical swamps, in which huge saurians crawled. The Coast Range rose to the westward, creating the Olympic Mountains and the San Juan Archipelago. Much later, volcanoes, the largest of which was Mount Rainier, built their cones along the Cascade Range. The Indians called the waters of the Sound Whulge (Ind. salt water). Nekhani, the great spirit, said they, created this land as an expression of love for La-wis-wis, queen of all beauty. Ignorance of those unexplored water courses led to their being con- sidered haunted. Early navigators told of the weird silence of the inner reaches, "only now and then interrupted by the croaking of the raven, the breathing of the seal or the scream of the eagle." Disregarding the legendary figure of Juan de Fuca, the actual dis- coverer is said to be Captain Charles William Barkley, who sailed into Juan de Fuca Strait in 1787. Captain George Vancouver ex- plored Puget Sound in 1792 and named most of its islands and land- marks. The Hudson's Bay Company steamer, Beaver, which entered these waters in 1836, was the first steamer in the Pacific As the American settlers began to arrive at Tumwater in 1845 and at Olympia in 1847, settlements gradually sprang up along the Sound on the more favorable bays and harbors. The booming days in Cali- fornia and, shortly thereafter, the northerly gold rushes toward the Fraser River called attention to the potential wealth of this timbered region. Piling, timbers, and shingles found an ever-increasing market. Premiums brought hundreds of ships to the Sound for cargo. The rapid development of sawmill towns, lumber ports, shipyards and docks followed. Puget Sound entered its most glamorous and strenuous period; years which saw a constant stream of vessels crossing its waters; a time of smuggling Chinese and opium; hi-jacking lumber cargoes; grog-shop brawls and shanghaiing; murder, shipwrecks, and mutiny. There were 100 vessels plying the waters of the Sound in 1877; by 1884 as many as 1,869 entered its bounds within the year, including ships, steamers, brigs, schooners, barks, and sloops. The names of some of these ships— Frowning Beauty, Quickstep, Minnie May, Tesser,Phantom, Coquimbo, Colish, Vidette, Topgallant, Wailele—and their traffic with the South Sea islands, the Malay States, Australia, Africa, Europe, China, and the north seas, spread a patina of romance over the ports of the Sound. With the coming of the railroads and the increased use of coal, the square-riggers, the barks, and the brigs gave way to steam carriers. Timber, cut back into the hills, was now much less accessible—and this, too, helped to push the days of "wooden ships and iron men" into the past. Towns and villages along the Sound which had based their future on lumber alone now rose to become centers of diversified manu- facturing. Seattle, Tacoma, Everett, Bellingham, and Olympia, con- nected with the rest of the Nation by fast railroads, demanded ocean lines to compete with the merchant marine of the world. The east shore of the Sound is the most densely populated section
of the State. Bellingham, a few miles south of the Canadian boundary and facing the San Juan Islands, is the most northerly city on Puget Sound; Olympia, the State capital, is the most southerly. Seattle, largest city west of the Missouri and north of San Francisco, spreads with its suburbs from spacious Elliott Bay over hills and lakes half way down the Sound's eastern shore. Southward is Tacoma, "Lumber Capital of the World," on a point jutting into a maze of passages. North of Seattle and opposite the southern tip of Whidbey Island is Everett, a bustling lumber-mill town and first seaport terminal of a transcontinental railroad. Bremerton, built around the Puget Sound Navy Yard, is ensconced within the narrow channels of Kitsap Penin- sula, half way down the west shore of the Sound. Though the day of the sailing ship is past, each cove and inlet, harbor, and decadent town on the Sound retains some of the flavor of vessels arriving from far-off ports; of the melancholy ringing of the ship's bell, and the odor of pitch pots, varnish, and freshlv cut ships' timbers. Small fleets of fishing boats scatter over the waters, and aging houseboats huddle under wooded bluffs; while in the distance, long ribbons of smoke string out across the horizon from the giant smoke stacks of mills. CROSS-SOUND TOUR 1 Seattle—Suquamish, 14 m. by ferry, 45 min. Ferry. Black Ball Line. Kehloken leaves Colman Ferry Terminal, ft. of Marion St., approximately every 2^2 hrs. (Schedules vary with the seasons). Fares: 40c each way; car and driver, $1.10. Dining service. The route offers many fine views of the inland waterway against the background of Bainbridge Island, which merges with the green foot- hills of the snowy mountain summits to the west. It also affords a visit to the birthplace and grave of Chief Seattle. Upon leaving Elliott Bay, Seattle Harbor, the ferry passes West Po1nt L1ghthouse to the right, above which, on a high bluff, is FORT LAWTON, an active military post (see Seattle). The main channel of Puget Sound is five miles wide at this point. About 14 miles out, the ferry bears between MONROE POINT, left, and JEFFERSON POINT, right, to enter PORT MADISON BAY; these were named in 1841 by the Wilkes Expedition in honor of United States Presidents. Left from the bay is Agate Pass, a narrow channel between the mainland and BAINBRIDGE ISLAND (see Island Tour /). SUQUAMISH (sea level, 584 pop.), was first named Bartow after an early Indian agent in charge of the Port Madison Indian Reserva- tion, which the village adjoins. After its development as a summer- home site about 1910 by Ole Hansen, later Seattle mayor, the name was changed to Suquamish. Fishing and boating equipment are available. On a hill at the west end of the main street, a small white-steepled church overlooks an Indian burial ground containing Ch1ef Seattle's
6lO WASHINGTON Grave. A stone monument marks the last resting place of the Indian chief who gave much valuable service to the white settlers. On scout anniversary day, in late February, a ceremony is conducted by Boy Scouts beside the grave. A granite shaft bears the inscription: "Seattle, Chief of the Suquamish and Allied Tribes, died June 7, 1866, the firm friend of the Whites and for him the City of Seattle was named by its Founders." Seattle was a man of unusual vision, the elected chief of six tribes, who won his place by personal worth. He saw the futility of resisting the whites and used his power to aid them, particularly befriending the early settlers who founded Seattle. Physically a large man, over six feet tall, broad-shouldered and deep-chested, he was an impressive and able orator. Left from SUQUAMISH, 0.5 m., down the beach is the S1te of Old-Man-House, where Chief Seattle was born. One of the most unusual of Indian structures found in the region, this great communal dwelling has long ago rotted and fallen, but many of the large posts which supported it may be seen embedded in the earth. Historians dis- agree as to the original size of the abode; it is believed to have covered an area of one and a quarter acres. The house, as reported by George Gibbs to the American Bureau of Ethnology in 1877, was 520 feet long, 60 feet wide, 15 feet high at the front and 10 feet at the rear. The shed roof was covered with cedar shakes and supported by 74 split timbers from 2 to 3 feet wide and from 5 to 8 inches thick, and carved with grotesque figures. The cross beams were round logs 65 feet long and from 12 to 22 inches in diameter. The outside walls were split cedar planks. Inside were 40 apartments separated by partitions of split logs. The apartments of Chief Seattle and of the first sub-chief, Kitsap, were heavily reinforced. On the corner posts at the front of each was carved the omnipotent Thunderbird. Carlson, another author- ity, maintained that the house had a length of 900 feet. The structure faced the beach overlooking Agate Pass directly opposite, and was slightly curved, to follow the outline of the shore. CROSS-SOUND TOUR 2 Seattle—Bremerton, 15 m. by ferry, 60 min. Ferry: Black Ball Line. M.S. Kalakala and M.S. Chippewa leave Colman Ferry Terminal, ft. of Marion St., approximately every hr., between 6:30 A.M. and 12:30 A.M. Fares: 45c each way; car and driver, $1.10 each way. Dining service. One of the two ferries on this route is the silver-winged M.S. Kalakala (Kah-lock'-ah-lah; Ind. flying bird), advertised as the first streamlined ferry in the world. With a superstructure fashioned of welded aluminum-painted steel, molded in graceful streamline, and a bridge shaped to modified wings, its movement over the water suggests the gliding of a huge seaplane. Three large observation rooms, faced with broad plate-glass windows, afford a maximum view. On the upper deck aft is an open lounge.
Leaving Colman Dock, the ferry swings across Elliott Bay, revealing Seattle in an ever-widening panorama; long lines of wharves and ware- houses, with the city marching back over long hills; the East and West Waterways, giving access to the Duwamish River around man-made HARBOR ISLAND to the left. On the left also is green-crowned DUWAMISH HEAD, the south- westerly border of Elliott Bay, and a stretch of sandy beach which reaches in a gentle two-mile curve to ALKI POINT (see Seattle), where the founders of the city landed in 1851. A low sea wall guards many beach homes. The residential district of West Seattle perches on the bluffs above. West of Alk1 Po1nt L1ghthouse, the main channel of Puget Sound, some six miles wide here, is entered. Extending from BAIN- BRIDGE ISLAND on the right, is the wooded tip of RESTORA- TION POINT (see Island Tour /). To the left rises uninhabited BLAKE ISLAND, a mile in diameter, owned in its entirety by Wil- liam Pitt Trimble, Seattle capitalist. Beyond it and farther to the south is VASHON ISLAND (see Island Tour 2), the largest in this part of the Sound. Visible on Bainbridge Island are summer homes and small settle- ments. A dock juts into view, with faded green buildings in the back- ground. Still farther back, a slanting roof, discernible above serried trees, bears in yellow letters the name "Fort Ward," a post long inactive but taken over by the Navy Department in 1938, for new development (see Island Tour 1). Swinging northward, the ferry enters twisting RICH PASS, beset by strong currents and narrowed by submerged rock. Small whirlpools in the deep water mark the struggle of the tides. At times the left shore is very close. To the right, in a protected cove on Bainbridge Island, is PLEASANT BEACH. During the early 1 goo's it served as terminus of many roistering steamboat excursions. Turning to the west again, the ferry crosses PORT ORCHARD BAY, named by Vancouver for H. M. Orchard, a clerk on the Dis- covery, who commanded a small boat expedition that explored this waterway. A giant crane in the navy yard ahead looms impressively. On the right is East Bremerton (Manette), separated from Bremerton by a concrete-piered bridge across Port Washington Narrows. Yellow buildings seem to crowd the bluff in a tight-packed huddle left of the bridge. Left of the ferry are the cranes and red and gray buildings of the PUGET SOUND NAVY YARD. A gray battleship or two, several cruisers and destroyers, perhaps an airplane carrier, are usually to be seen at anchor. Dark-brown gulls, perched atop clusters of old piling, watch undis- turbed as the ferry berths at the Bremerton Mun1c1pal Dock. BREMERTON Accommodations: Cabin and auto camps; trailer facilities, governed by special
6l2 WA SHINGTON city ordinance (for highway directions into Bremerton see Tour 3a) ; one hotel. Information: Chamber of Commerce, basement Elks' Temple, Pacific Ave., Olympicans, Inc., Harrison Bldg., 4th St. Transportation: Ferries—Black Ball Line, to Puget Sound points, auto and passengers; Greyhound, Union Pacific, and Washington Motor Coach stages serve suburban and State points from Municipal Dock. Taxi service: all hours. Special seaplane service to Seattle, from N. of Municipal Dock. Recreation: Swimming pool, YMCA, 1st St. and Washington Ave. Golf: Kitsap Country and Golf Club, 6 m. W. on State 21. Tennis: Seven public and four private courts. Baseball, Football: Warren Ave. Field, 15th St. and Warren Ave. Annual Events: Olympican Caravan tour Olympic loop, summer season, nfd; Dahlia show, Kitsap Co. Dahlia Society, Aug. or Sept.; Navy Day celebration, Oct. 27. Twice a day the streets of BREMERTON (12 alt., 15,134 pop.), teem with jostling, boisterous life—in the early morning and when the 4:45 p.m. whistle has blown and thousands of men pour in or out of the main gate of the PUGET SOUND NAVY YARD. Almost everything in Bremerton owes its presence there to "the Yard," which is the ruling factor in the economic life of Kitsap County, one of the State's great industrial centers. The city of Bremerton is spread over a shield-shaped arm of land, surrounded on three sides by water. The city may be reached by high- way (see Tour 3A), but the land route from other large Puget Sound cities is extremely circuitous. There is no rail transportation; it is said that Bremerton is the largest city in the Nation not served by a railroad. From the municipal dock the civic center is reached by turning left on 1st Street and right into Pacific Avenue, a wide, sloping thorough- fare. Old and new buildings crowd one another; and there are no tall commercial structures. Recent civic improvements (1937-8) include an $80,000 brick post office and a $65,000 library, the latter partly financed by the Work Projects Administration. Eating places and beer taverns are numerous. The influence of the yard is evident in such names as "The Ship," "The Crow's Nest," and "Lou's Lockers." An enterprising Seattle hotel advertises at the muni- cipal dock that "sailors may cast anchor at $1 a night—no extra charge for two." Local hotels are scarce, because of the proximity to Seattle. One of the younger cities of a young State, Bremerton grew out of the communities of Charleston, Bremerton, and Manette. William Bremer, a native of Germany, who came to Washington in 1888 to engage in the real estate business, platted the townsite in 1891. He aided in securing the Navy Yard for the town by selling land to the Government at low price. Bremerton was a wild town in its early days. A. L. Croxton, the first mayor, says of the period: "There were 17 saloons in Bremerton when I took office. . . . The country was over- run by gamblers . . ." With the aid of the Secretary of the Navy, however, who ordered that these resorts be cleaned out, the town was finally put in order. East Bremerton, until incorporated with Bremerton, was known as
Manette, and its post office still bears that name. It sprang up in the nineties as a small lumbering village around Bender's mill, which was located near the end of the bridge connecting the present town with Bremerton. Some of the piling which supported the mill may still be seen at this point. Oxen were used in logging in those days; and along the trails in the woods lay many skeletons of the work animals and the remains of those that had been turned loose in the woods when too old to be useful. It was necessary to row across the Narrows to get mail, and the one who went to get it would ask for the "String Town" mail, meaning the settlement strung out along the road. When a dock was finally built, the village took the name of the first boat that stopped there, the Decatur, but changed it to Manette when it had achieved the proportions of a town. Today, a new bridge connects East Brem- erton and Bremerton. In Evergreen Park, Park Ave. and 14th St., facing the Narrows, trees have been planted memorializing World War veterans and yeo- manettes. Here tourists may camp and trailers park. Larger Forest R1dge Park, right from 1st St. and Lafayette Ave., has a Boy Scout camp and is being improved. A new recreational development, aided by WPA funds, is the Warren Avenue F1eld, 15th St. and Warren Ave., on which $40,000 has been expended. The field is lighted for baseball and foot- ball and has stands to seat 5,000. Puget Sound Navy Yard. (Guides furnished, visitors apply at main gate; open daily 9-4; Sun., 1-5. Private automobiles admitted on pass. No cameras or firearms; no smoking). The main gate to the yard is at the foot of 1st St., a few feet right from Pacific Avenue. An ordinance passed in 1902 made it a misde- meanor to sell or roast peanuts, loaf, tell stories, whittle, or scatter litter near this entrance. Persons convicted of these offenses were subject to a fine ranging from $5 to $25. The Navy Yard was established September 16, 1891, Lieutenant Wycoff in command. The first vessel to call at the yard was the Japanese ship Yamagucha Maru; the second was the old flagship U.S.S. Oregon. Land originally purchased comprised 190 acres; since then it has been expanded to 285 acres. Buildings and improvements today represent a valuation of $65,000,000. In addition to enlisted men of the naval and marine corps, from 3,000 to 4,000 civilians are nor- mally employed. The civil pay roll amounts to more than $9,000,000 annually, and the Navy spends approximately $2,000,000 each year in local markets. The area is policed by the marine corps, and sailors from warships berthed in the Yard are detailed to act as guides. The usual tour route leads straight ahead from the entrance along Farragut Avenue. Visitors are not customarily taken inside the buildings en route. Operations of the yard include the repairing, overhauling, or building of battleships, destroyers, and submarines. Administration is in the hands of ninety United States Naval officers, headed by a rear admiral
as commandant. Three drydocks are in the Yard: No. I accommodates cruisers, destroyers, and smaller craft; No. 2 cares for large airplane carriers; and No. 3, completed in 1919, is a ship-building dock, the largest of its type in the world. With a length of 926 feet, a width of 130 feet and a depth of 24 feet, it will hold 21,800,000 gallons of water, and has space for the construction of two cruisers or four destroyers at the same time. In the yard*, too, is one of the world's largest machine and electric shops, completed in 1935 at a cost of $1,300,000; it is 805 feet long by 251 feet wide, of heavy steel and concrete construction, with brick facing and of modern design. The walls are fabricated almost entirely of special glass, admitting a maximum of light. It will accommodate up to 1,000 men per shift. The yard has its own railway system; it also provides in Craven Center, right from Farragut Avenue, a recreational building for en- listed personnel. A modern hospital and officers' quarters are on a high bluff back of Farragut Avenue where it bears left to the water front. CROSS-SOUND TOUR 3 Edmonds—Port Ludlow, 17 m. by ferry, 80 min. Ferries: M.S. Chetzemoka and M.S. Ehoha leave Edmonds about six times daily (schedules vary with the seasons). Fares: One way 80c; round trip $1.35; car and driver, $2.25, round trip $3.80. Dining Service. From the landing at Edmonds, the ferry moves in a diagonal, north- westerly course across the Sound. Midway, the route passes a long stretch of forested shore notched by inlets. To the northwest, the long bulk of Whidbey Island curves between Admiralty Inlet and Saratoga Passage; the entrance to the latter is seen to the right through the wide mouth of Possession Sound. SCATCHET HEAD, on the right, is a high tan bluff on the southwestern corner of Whidbey Island. The name is derived from that of an Indian tribe commonly called the Skagit. Northwest of Scatchet Head is DOUBLE BLUFF, the western cape of Useless Bay. POINT NO POINT, on the left, noted for its salmon fishing, is at the northeastern extremity of Kitsap County. A L1ghthouse, one of the first established on Puget Sound, has given added importance to the point. Governor Isaac Stevens met the natives here and concluded the "Point No Point Treaty." The document was signed by 56 Indians, the principal ones being Chetzemoka, chief of the Clallams (see Tour ga), Doh-whil-cuk of the Snohomish; and Kul-a-hon, chief of the Chimacums. HANSVILLE, west of the point, consists of a few houses and poultry yards straggling along the beach beneath a bluff just south of Nor- wegian Point, where a number of Norwegians have settled. The bay north of Hansville is called Skunk Bay because many skunks formerly frequented the beach at low tide. Also on the left, FOULWEATHER BLUFF, on the north end of the Kitsap Peninsula at the entrance to
Hood Canal (see Tour ga), overlooks a pointed beach strewn with large rocks. The Indian name for the place was Pitch Pol. The sight of deer licking the salt from wet rocks on the beach is not uncommon. The steamer Traveler, first vessel to navigate rivers emptying into the Sound, was wrecked here March 1858. At that time the area was under charter to the Indian Department. The chain of snow sentinels which surround Puget Sound is best observed in mid-Sound. Mount Baker is a dazzling white cone far to the northeast; rising gradually from the ridges of the Cascades is Glacier Peak almost due east from Admiralty Inlet; Mount Rainier towers high in the southeast. Often Mount St. Helens is visible more than 100 miles to the south. As the ferry heads due west, a view is unfolded of the eastern slope of the Olympic Mountains and of Mount Olympus, a cluster of rock pinnacles. Fields of snow gleam in crevices along its shoulders. Brown, red, and gray abutments rise from a dark green mantle of forest. SNAKE ROCK and COLVOS ROCK rise above the waves a few hundred yards off Basalt Point, to the right. Seal herds that formerly inhabited these rocks have disappeared. An Indian village once sprawled along a little cove back of the rocks. Passing Tala Point, on the left, the ferry heads into Port Ludlow Bay, shaped like a bird's head. The dark forest creeps down the slopes of low hills to the shoreline. PORT LUDLOW (30 alt., 200 pop.), on a tiny peninsula form- ing the throat of the bay, presents a patchwork of green lawns, venerable maple trees, and a half-dozen well-painted houses on a bank sloping upward from the beach and ferry landing. To the left is a large aban- doned M1ll with a tall brick smokestack. This mill, the first in Jeffer- son County, was built around the original plant, erected in 1858 by Captain William F. Sayward and J. F. Thorndyke. Cutting more than 3,000 feet daily, its output was used for the construction of settlers' homes along the shores of Puget Sound. The mill was rebuilt and improved with new machinery in 1883. High-grade lumber was shipped to all corners of the world. Depletion of the region's timber caused curtailment of operations. The McCormick Lumber Company, a sub- sidiary of the McCormick Steamship Company, is the present owner. Together with a number of boarded-up houses, the mill is mute evidence of the decline into which a formerly flourishing lumber center has fallen. Overlooking the harbor on the single main street extending from the ferry dock, is the old Adm1ralty Hotel (closed: see caretaker). Orig- inally built as a home in 1883 by Cyrus Walker, a pioneer lumberman, the building was converted into a hotel in 1911. The long, vine-covered structure was designed along nautical lines by Walker, who came from Maine in the 1850's. The great center hall resembles a ship's interior and is paneled with native fir. Massive pieces of furniture for the house were freighted thousands of miles from the Atlantic Coast around Cape Horn. The highboards of carved bedsteads reach almost to the ceiling. In each room is a marble-topped dresser. The dining room has a sideboard of carved
6l6 WA SHINGTON walnut, fashioned in Germany more than 200 years ago. Antique spindle-legged chairs grace the red-carpeted hallway. The bathrooms are larger than modern kitchens, and some of the rooms are equipped with fireplaces. A broad veranda overlooks Port Ludlow Bay. Trees shading the sloping lawn were in many instances grown from slips brought from distant ports by old sailing masters. A shipyard was one of the early-day industries of Port Ludlow. Many sturdy ships were constructed here of stout Douglas fir. The three- masted schooner Courser, the barkentine Katherine Sudden, the Moses Turner, the schooners Waiehue, Lihuluho and Luke, built for Hawaii, and the steamers Augusta and Hyack, were among a long list of craft launched from Port Ludlow ways. Well-surfaced roads lead from Port Ludlow to US 101 (see Tour gb), the Olympic Loop Highway. Island Tours ISLAND TOUR 1 Seattle—Vashon Island and around the island, 17 m.; by ferry 3 m., 20 min.; by auto, Vashon Heights to Tallequah, 14 m. Ferry: Black Ball Line. Vashon leaves dock at the end of Fauntleroy Ave., approximately every hours, between 6:30 a.m. and 12:30 a.m. (schedules vary with the seasons). Fares: 20c one way, 35c round trip; car and driver 70c one way, $1.30 round trip. Dining service. Vashon Stages leave 308 Virginia St. in the morning and afternoon. Fare: 45c each way including ferry. The stage crosses with the ferry and makes stops at the principal settlements on Vashon. Summer boarding places and cabin camps. Concrete-paved, bituminous-surfaced, and graveled roads. Section a. SEATTLE to VASHON ISLAND, 3 m. Leaving Seattle from Fauntleroy Cove, the ferry Vashon heads south- west into Puget Sound. On either bow the gently rolling sea is en- closed by dark wooded shores and the occasional tawny face of a sheer bluff. At three miles is the north head of VASHON ISLAND, rising some 300 feet above the water. Like the verdant crest of a young mountain, Vashon Island stretches for 14 miles along the west shore of the Sound, midway between Seattle and Tacoma, its fertile heights, above the
timbered slopes, dotted with orchards and fields. George Vancouver named the island in 1792 for his friend, Captain James Vashon of the English Navy. Although it was surveyed in 1856, permanent settlement did not begin until 1877. In the next 25 years, it became one of the leading berry, fruit, and poultry-raising districts on Puget Sound. The ferry docks at VASHON HEIGHTS. Section b. VASHON HEIGHTS to TALLEQUAH, 14 m. From the ferry landing the paved highway ascends on a winding grade to the crest of the island. Far below (L), Puget Sound glints in the sun. To the east are the tumbled Cascades, broken by peaks and punctuated by the white crowns of Mount Rainier and Mount Baker. On the west is the Olympic Range. Continuing south, the highway rolls past berry fields, orchards and poultry farms. Patches of woodland border the route. VASHON, 4 m. (220 alt., 200 pop.), is the "metropolis" of the island, and its brief main street is lined on either side with modern store buildings. Near by are several greenhouses; one, perhaps the most noted in the Northwest, is housed under 350,000 square feet of glass. A truckload of flowers leaves here for Seattle markets every morning. On the island more than 500,000 feet of greenhouse space is given to flowers, tomatoes, and cucumbers. An unusual enterprise at Vashon is a Travel1ng Barber Shop, mounted on a truck chassis. When trade is dull along the village street, the barber tours the country roads and the smaller settlements dis- tributing his truckload of shaves and haircuts. At 7 m. is a junction with an improved road. Left here 1 m. to ELLISPORT (sea level, 135 pop.), a colorful summer village on the east shore, founded in 1879 by three Methodist clergymen, Ellis, Green, and Harrison, who took up homesteads. At Ellisport is POINT HEYER, where Station KVI, a Tacoma broadcasting company, has erected its Transm1ss1on Tower, a steel structure rising from the beach to a height of 444 feet. PORTAGE, 2 m. (50 alt., 75 pop.), is situated at a narrow sand spit which connects Vashon with Maury Island, actually a mile-wide peninsula that paral- lels Vashon Island for five miles along its southeastern border. Lying between the two insular bodies is the picturesque bay of Quartermaster Harbor, a long, slim, twisting body of water. Portage received its name from the early settlers who carried their small boats from Quartermaster Harbor across the low strip of land at this point to Tramp Harbor on East Passage. East of Portage, a causeway carries the road across to Maury Island, where it follows the east shore of Quartermaster Harbor (R). The long beaches and the sheltered waters offer camping and recreational opportunities. VASHON STATE PARK, 3 m., is a 21-acre recreational area along the beach, with camping facilities, community kitchens, and a diving float. Border- ing the road (L) are the greens of the Vashon Golf Club (greens fee 25c), a 9-hole community course. On the harbor, Vashon's first settlement was established in November 1877, when John Gilman, Daniel Price, and Captain S. D. Sherman landed with their families. DOCKTON, 3.5 m. (sea level, 200 pop.), a weathered settlement on the east shore of Quartermaster Harbor, was named by the Puget Sound Dry Dock Company about 1891. In 1892 it became the scene of great activity when a dry-
6l8 WA S H I NGTON dock 182 feet wide by 325 feet long was put into operation. Ocean-going trans- ports and an occasional four-master with furled canvas lay at anchor in _ its tiny port awaiting repairs; cod fisher? delivered their catch to a large curing plant here; boxcars were towed on barges into the harbor where they were loaded with dried codfish and returned to the railroad in Tacotna; brickyards about the bay added to its commerce. At the turn of the century, however, compe- tition from larger industrial centers on the mainland reversed the tide of com- merce, and today Dockton is a pale ghost, with graying remnants of wharves and ships along its water front. A developing berry culture, however, promises to sustain the town. Left from Dockton, about two miles along the beach, near the present settle- ment of Manzanita, a Chinese village known as Hongking flourished in the early 1880's. It was reputed to have a population of 3,000, but this figure is doubted. Most of the Chinese were engaged in fishing. During the Chinese riots in many Puget Sound cities, the Orientals disappeared, abandoning most of their belongings, including a large number of pigs. These found warm welcome in some of the kitchens of the white settlers who followed. At 8.2 m. the main route crosses JUDD CREEK. Somewhere along its banks is said to be a cache of buried treasure. Lars Hanson, logging here in 1877, married an Indian girl to whom he gave his savings, $800 in gold, with instructions to bury it for him in some secret place. She became ill shortly thereafter and died before he could learn the hiding- place. The gold has never been found, and it is believed to be somewhere near the mouth of the stream. BURTON, 9 m. (100 alt., 250 pop.), on the eastern shore of Vashon Island, fronts on Quartermaster Harbor and is the southern terminal of the island stage route. The local population is scattered along the countryside and beaches, and the town seems scarcely to exist. Burton was named in 1892 by Mrs. M. E. Match for a town in Illinois in which she formerly lived. Vashon College, founded here in 1892, became a co-educational preparatory school; destroyed by fire in 1912, it has never been rebuilt. Near by, in a large park-like section, Baptists convene for the annual summer assembly of their Young People's Society. Ferry service between Burton and Tacoma links the town with the mainland. South of Burton, the highway follows the winding shore, ascending high sand bluffs with an ever-widening panorama of small bays. Here, the country becomes rougher in character, broken by huge thinly tim- bered ravines. At 14 rn., is TALLEQUAH, the southernmost point on Vashon Island, where a ferry connects with Point Defiance in Tacoma (see Tacoma), less than two miles across Dalco Passage. ISLAND TOUR 2 Seattle—Bainbridge Island and around the island, 34.2 m., by ferry, 9.5 m., 45 min.; by auto around Bainbridge Island, 24.7 m. Ferry. Black Ball Line. Klahanie leaves Colman Ferry Terminal, ft. of Marion St., approximately every 2 hrs., between 6:30 a.m. and 11:30 p.m.; fewer trips Sunday (schedules vary with the seasons). Fares: 35c one way, 60c round trip; car and driver, $1 one way, $1.70 round trip. Dining service. Stage service to main points on island, 10c Numerous cabin camps and cottages. Graveled roads encircle the island.
Section a. SEATTLE to BAINBRIDGE ISLAND, 9.5 m. From its slip at the foot of Marion Street in Seattle, the broad- beamed ferry swings west across the Sound to BAINBRIDGE ISLAND. Home and vacation-place of well-to-do business and pro- fessional people, university instructors, and artists, Bainbridge Island might be called the aristocrat among the islands of Puget Sound. Many beautiful residences are scattered about the island; summer camps are strung along the beaches. At the height of the vacation season, its normal population of 3,000 expands to 6,000. On a spring morning in 1792, Kitsap, chief of many tribes, stood with his people on the south shore of Bainbridge Island, observing the approach of what must have appeared to be a visitation of the "Great Spirit": the first white man's ship to enter Puget Sound. Captain George Vancouver, its commander, did not know that the land he saw was an island. It remained unidentified until 184.1, when Charles N. Wilkes, in command of an exploring expedition for the United States Navy, found Agate Pass, entrance to the west shoreline, and named the island Bainbridge for Captain William Bainbridge, hero of the U.S.S. Constitution (Old Ironsides). Twelve years later one of the first mills on Puget Sound was built here, and by the sixties, Bainbridge's ports were among the most important on the Sound. For many years the island was a leading lumber-manufacturing cen- ter. Today, the once bustling ports are gone, and in their place are quiet summer and country homes bordered by berry fields and small farms. Nine miles from its starting point, the ferry slips behind the pro- tecting arm of WING POINT, to the right, and enters EAGLE HARBOR, a wedge-shaped inlet less than half a mile wide at its mouth. Tipped with feathery green trees and dotted with country homes, the slender point thrusts out into the sea to form the north boundary of the harbor. On the left, a high bluff protects the inlet from the gusty "southwesters" that blow off the Sound. Small boats ride at anchor in the quiet water, or rest on the beach near the cottages along the shore. Eagle Harbor was named by the Wilkes Expedition of 1841 for Henry Eagle, a Navy lieutenant. The ferry docks at WINSLOW (20 alt., 669 pop.), largest pop- ulation center of the island and home of its largest industry, a ship- building plant covering 15 acres. Ocean steamers anchored in the harbor seem to dwarf the cove. Many boats of the halibut fleet moor here in slack season; a weathered old windjammer rides the tide in peaceful retirement. The shipbuilding plant is constructing twelve mine sweepers for the United States Navy. Section b. WINSLOW-PORT BLAKELEY-PLEASANT BEACH-PORT MADISON-WINSLOW, 24.7 m. A graveled road runs west from Winslow, skirts the end of Eagle Harbor, and swings back along the crest of the south shore.
At 3.3 m. is a junction with a graveled crossroad. Left here 1 m. to CREOSOTE (20 alt., 250 pop.), site of a wood-preserving plant for which the town was named. South of the junction, the highway comes out upon the north shore of Blakely Harbor, site of old PORT BLAKELY, 5 m. (sea level; 100 pop.), a settlement which came to life in 1863 and was soon one of the leading lumber centers on Puget Sound. During the last quarter of the nineteenth century, the masts and spars of lumber schooners loading for world ports gave the harbor the appearance of a bleached forest. A shipyard was built, in which the S. S. Julia, largest stern- wheeler in the Northwest of that day, was constructed. During this period the Port Blakely mill, said to have been the largest in the world, at that time, employed 1,200 men and daily cut 400,000 feet of lumber. When the United States acquired Alaska, the old Russian gunboat Politokofsky was included in the purchase. The ship was bought by the Port Blakely Mill Company, its guns were dismounted, and for many years the boat was a familiar sight on Puget Sound. Shortly after the close of the World War, the mill was shut down and dismantled. Today, nothing remains but a few moldy bricks to mark its foundations. The road turns westward along the north shore of the harbor. At 5.4 m. is a junction with a graveled road: Left here 2 m. along the south shore of Blakely Harbor to RESTORATION POINT, where Vancouver anchored in 1792. He first called the place Village Point, but since he here celebrated Restoration Day, anniversary of the Stuarts' return to the English throne, the name was changed to Restoration Point. On the reef off the point, the famed sloop-of-war, Decatur, first revenue cutter on Puget Sound, went aground in 1856, and the crew was barely able to make repairs in time to help rout the Indians in the Battle of Seattle (see Seattle). The greater part of the point is occupied by the grounds of the exclusive Ba1nbridge Country Club, many of whose members have built homes here and maintain stables and a nine-hole golf course. At 6.4 m. is a junction with a graveled road skirting the beach along Rich Passage, a channel named for botanist William Rich of the Wilkes Expedition, 1841. Left here to FORT WARD, 1.6 m., a 330-acre military reservation and barracks established 1910-11, with 20 buildings which extend up the hill (L) from the water front. It is now under control of the Navy. From Fort Ward the road follows the shore to SOUTH BEACH, 3.0 m., marked by a group of comfortable summer homes. PLEASANT BEACH, 7 m. (10 alt., 450 pop.), is a summer resort spread around a picturesque semicircular bay. In a brick block are stores and a rakish theater building. Left from Pleasant Beach a graveled road winds around WHITE POINT, 0.8 m., a protecting peninsula between Pleasant Beach and Port Orchard Bav. At 3.4 m., are CRYSTAL SPRINGS, a suburban resort, and GAZZAM LAKE, a small body of water hidden in the forest a few hundred feet (R) from the highway. The lake is noted for its bass fishing. Bainbridge Island is a game preserve, with abundant wild life, including chinese pheasant, quail, and deer.
The road's end, at 3.9 m., affords a view of Port Orchard Bay, known for its excellent salmon fishing. Butter clams are plentiful. North of the junction, the highway passes through a timbered area, with occasional views of the bay and distant mountains. At 10.5/w. is a junction with a graveled road: Left on this road to FLETCHER BAY, 0.6 m. (10 alt., 152 pop.), (pic- nicking facilities), a slender cove running inland for a half-mile with an average width of a few hundred feet. Along its banks are attractive homes; a dance pavilion provides a social center. North of the junction the highway traverses a countryside dotted with strawberry fields, mainly cultivated by Japanese who operate lands under lease. Ba1nbr1dge Gardens, 10.9 m., is one of the largest greenhouses on the island; many thousands of Easter lilies are shipped annually from here. At 11.9 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Left here to VENICE, 2.0 m. (20 alt., 60 pop.), a beach resort on ARROW POINT, whose protecting arm reaches out to form MANZANITA BAY. At 12.4 m., the route swings left, roughly paralleling the shore of Port Orchard Bay, and skirts the beach of an arm of Manzanita Bay and the small settlement of MANZANITA, 13.1 m. (sea level, 125 pop. ), center of summer homes and camps. At 14 m. are the forks of two graveled roads. 1. Left here 0.2 m. to Seabold (95 alt., 125 pop.), the water front center of a community of small ranches. Its situation, which overlooks a tidal shore, inspired William Bull, in 1894, to give the settlement its name. The beach in this section is a favorite spot for digging the succulent, but elusive, geoduck (goey-duck), largest of the burrowing clams. 2. Left (straight ahead) 3 m., to AGATE POINT, the northwest tip of Bainbridge Island, which is separated from the mainland at this point by narrow Agate Passage (L), only 2 m. wide. On the crest of the point is Agate Park, seven acres of forest and beach set aside as a recreational area. The names, Agate Pass, Agate Point, and Agate Park, were bestowed in honor of Alfred T. Agate, an artist with the Wilkes Expedition of 1841. Right from the junction, the main road bears northeasterly across the island through a pleasantly wooded country. Here and there, a small farm is leisurely cultivated. PORT MADISON, 16.5 m. (25 alt., 576 pop.), once a leading industrial center on Puget Sound, is now a quiet little shore village sprawling along both sides of its almost toy harbor. Named by Wilkes for a former President of the United States, Port Madison stirred to life in 1853, when G. W. Meigs came from San Francisco and set up a sawmill. The great demand for lumber in early days, with prices reaching from $200 to $500 per 1,000 board feet, led to a continued expansion of the plant and the addition of a foundry, machine shop, and shipyard. For decades Port Madison thrived, and in 1861 it was voted the seat of Kitsap County, a distinction it later lost in one of the hottest political fights in county annals. Port Madison today
shelters the country homes of a few city dwellers, and a scattering of faded old houses. West from Port Madison on the main highway is an Old British Cemetery, (L), 17.4 m., the burial place of several British sailors. Some of the headstones date back to 1854. The highway turns south at Yl.lm., paralleling the shore along a high bluff. Second-growth timber and scrubby woodland border the road. The route continues towards the midsection of the island, its most cultivated area. ROLLING BAY, 20.7 m. (20 alt., 530 pop.), a few hundred yards off the highway (L), is one of the oldest summer colonies on Bainbridge Island. SKIFF POINT, 21.7 m., was so named to direct attention to its resemblance to an overturned skiff at low tide and for the num- ber of skiffs stranded on its shallow bar. On the crest of the point are the buildings and grounds of the Puget Sound Naval Academy, a private preparatory school which trains students for the Umted States Naval Academy at Annapolis and the United States Coast Guard Academy at New London, Connecticut. This was formerly the Moran School, founded in 1914. as a private boarding school for boys. After its sale in 1938 to Eastern interests, it was reorganized and renamed. New barracks were constructed and new equipment installed, including boats and other facilities. South of Skiff Point the route follows around the shore, where small roads branch inland. The Bainbridge Island Boy Scouts assemble at Major Hopkins Boy Scout Camp, 23.7 m., for their annual affair, (hiring a week- end about the middle of June. Adjoining is a camp maintained by the Seattle YWCA; also in the neighborhood is a riding academv. WING POINT. 24.2 m., pushes its slim length into the Sound- At its base is the spreading green blanket of the Wing Po1nt Golf Club nine-hole golf course (fees 50c), a community course. Offshore here, the Seattle Yacht Club holds its annual regatta from May 28 to June 2. At 24.7 m., the route re-enters Winslow. ISLAND TOUR 3 Chuckanut (mainland)—Orcas Island—San Juan Island—Anacortes (mainland)—Mount Vernon. County roads and State 1. Ferry cross- ings between mainland and Islands: for costs see section headings. Chuckanut to Mount Vernon. 108.7 m. (48.2 m. by ferry: 60.5 m. by car). Ferries: Puget Sound Navigation Co. and Inter-Wand Transportation Co. Mail and passenger boats to smaller islands (schedules vary with the seasonsi. No regular bus lines. Summer resort and cabin-camp accommodations: hotels in larger towns: scattered general stores and garages. Graveled and dirt roads ou larger islands; State 1 concrete-paved. The San Juan Islands include 172 habitable islands and several hundred tide-washed rocks clustered in the northern watcis or Puget
Sound and the southern extremity of Georgia Strait. The International Boundary Line, zigzagging through a maze of waterways, leaves a hundred or more islands to Canada; all are a part of the same sub- merged mountain chain that rises above sea level to a maximum of 2,454 feet in Mount Constitution. Along the jagged shores of the islands, sinewy red-trunked madronas and wind-stunted green conifers stand above tawny rocks, white sand, and gravelly beaches. From the water, the woods present a leafy tangle, brightened in summer with gleaming white dogwood and rose-red flowering currant, each shaded sanctuary adorned with delicate green ferns, honeysuckle, trilliums, and other wild flowers. Some of the islands in the "dry belt," which has only about 20 inches of rainfall annually, are so arid that a species of prickly cactus (Opuntia polycantha) flourishes. However, most of the islands are heavily wooded, and a temperate climate, together with a favorable average rainfall, has encouraged cultivation of the larger bodies of land. The breeze-swept adjacent waters contain an extraordinary variety of marine life, and no less plentiful is the fauna of the islands. Deer are common; it is not unusual to see them swimming the narrow channels between the islands in search of fresh pastures. Rabbits over- run some of the islands, while on others wild goats, descended from domestic varieties abandoned by settlers, make their home. Eagles are frequently visible, soaring above rocky cliffs; water fowl abound, ranging from migratory ducks to the gull and the white-breasted black mudhen. While the names of some of the islands embody the long record of successive explorations, from the Spaniards in 1790-2 and the English in 1792, to the American Wilkes and others of the 1840's, physical peculiarities are responsible for many homespun names such as Peapod, Goose, Dot, Ripple, Flattop, Saddle Bag, and Hat Islands. Each of the two sections of this two-day, land-water tour is a day's journey, which represents perhaps the shortest time in which the traveler may acquaint himself with the intriguing maze of waterways and beck- oning isles of the San Juan Archipelago, known as one of the most picturesque regions of the Pacific Coast. Section a. CHUCKANUT-ORCAS ISLAND (Obstruction Pass Landing), 15 m. by ferry, 2 hrs.; OBSTRUCTION PASS LAND- ING-ORCAS, 18.1 m. by auto; ORCAS ISLAND-SAN JUAN ISLAND (Friday Harbor), 10.2 m. by ferry, 40 min. Fares: Chuckanut to Orcas Island: passenger, one way, 50c; car and driver, $1.50. Orcas Island to San Juan Island: passenger, one way, 35c; car and driver, $1.10. West of the landing on Chuckanut Bay, six miles south of Belling- ham, the ferry glides past miniature CHUCKANUT ISLAND, to the right, and enters Bellingham Bay. On the right, too, about four miles farther, is thinly wooded ELIZA ISLAND, named by Wilkes in 1841 for the Spanish explorer, Fran-
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cisco Eliza. The low, nearly flat island is owned by the Pacific Ameri- can Fisheries, which at one time maintained a web-house and ship repair yards here. To the west, the mountainous southern end of Lummi Island rises to LUMMI PEAK, 1,740 ft. in height. Here was the ancestral home of the Lummi Indians, who now live in the reservation on the mainland opposite (see Tour 8a). Westward, a beacon marks VITI ROCKS, inhabited by swarms of seagulls. On VENDOVI ISLAND, less than a mile farther, on the left, a rockbound cove below a wooded hill opens into the channel. The Wilkes Expedition named the island after a native who was taken from the Fiji Islands and brought to the Northwest on one of its survey ships. The north shore was once the site of a Father Divine colony that attracted many members from New York and California during the summer. SINCLAIR ISLAND, on the right, rises to flat-topped wooded hills from long sandy beaches surrounded by shoalwater. It was supposedly named for Arthur Sinclair, commander of the Argus during the War of 1812. Here was the home port of Larry Kelly, notorious smuggler, who evaded all efforts of revenue officers to stop the illegal importation of Chinese from Canada during the nineties. Under cover of darkness the Chinese were landed near Everett or Seattle for a fee of $500 each, cash in advance; it was said that when hard pressed, Kelly would throw the immigrants overboard to save himself from arrest. The boat channel narrows between CYPRESS ISLAND, on the left, named in 1792 by Captain George Vancouver for what he took to be cypress trees, and little TOWHEAD ISLAND, on the right, a tiny dome-shaped isle with a scrawny thatch of scrub-growth where two eagles have made their home for many years. Right to the northwest looms the group of reefs grimly named THE DEVIL'S PLAY- GROUND, because of its menace to mariners. ROSARIO STRAIT, which links Georgia Strait with Juan de Fuca Strait, is much traveled by ships bound for the "inside passage" to Alaska. The current here often reaches a velocity of eight miles an hour, so that the waters are beset with boiling tide rips and whirling eddies. Sleek porpoises frequently bound in graceful arcs through the strait, and huge blackfish known as pilot whale, occasionally rear above the surface, flirting enormous black tails. Discovered by the Spaniard, Quimper, who called it Boca de Fidalgo, the strait was renamed Canal de Fidalgo by Lieutenant Eliza, Ring- gold's Pass by Wilkes, and finally Rosario Strait, by the British Ad- miralty in 1847. Narrow PEAVINE PASS, on the left, lies between BLAKELEY ISLAND and diminutive OBSTRUCTION ISLAND, which is separated from ORCAS ISLAND by OBSTRUCTION PASS. At Obstruction Pass Landing, the ferry docks at the end of a long wharf on Orcas Island, its terminus. The name "orcas" is of Spanish origin; Commander Wilkes (1841) renamed it "Hull's Island," for
Commander Isaac Hull of the U.S. frigate Constitution, but the orig- inal persisted. North of OBSTRUCTION PASS LANDING, 0 m., the road ascends a thinly forested grade.
Right here through a cutover section to DOEBAY, 3 m. (sea level, Ioq pop.), a small fishing resort in a wooded cove. LAWRENCE POINT, 5 m., is another fishing resort at the end of the road, where the rocky head of Lawrence Point overlooks Rosario Strait. At 2.8 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Left here to OLGA, 0.2 m., at the head of Buck Bay, a resort center with a number of residences located on a bluff above the beach. At 4.5 m. is a wooden bridge marking the southern entrance to MORAN STATE PARK, a 3,325-acre tract donated by the pioneer shipbuilder, Robert Moran. Across the bridge is a junction with a dirt road. Right here through a deeply shaded woodland to CASCADE FALLS, 0.2 m., where a 51-foot waterfall cascades down a mossy rock wall. Steps cut in the side of a huge fir log lead to the base of the falls at the bottom of the gorge, scented with overhanging fir, spruce, and flowering plants. At 4.9 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right on this road 1.3 m. to a junction with a dirt road: Right here to MOUNTAIN LAKE, 0.2 m. (camping, fishing, boating), lying in a basin of evergreens and dammed to store the water supply for the community of Olga. To the east rises MOUNT PICKETT (alt. 1,889), whose name honors Captain George Pickett for his part in the boundary issue with Great Britain on San Juan Island in the summer of 1859. The graveled side road, flanked by log railings, continues northward, winding up the west slope of Mount Constitution. At 4 m. is a junction with Cold Spring Trail (L). At the junction is a camping ground and picnic area. Northward, the road rears more steeply upward on hairpin turns which yield glimpses of islands, channels, and straits. At 5 m. is a junction (L) with the Twin Lakes and Mountain Lake Trails, which wind down the mountain through dense old-growth forest. At 5.1 m. the road ends in a turn-around on the summit of MOUNT CON- STITUTION (alt. 2,454). From here a short incline leads steeply up a few hundred feet to the base of a 52-foot granite OBSERVATION ToweR set squarely upon the pinkish lava-rock dome of the peak. Built in the style of the twelfth-century watchtowers which guarded Caucasian Mountain passes, the rectangular tower is topped by an open gallery and a log lookout shelter whose windows open upon a breath-taking panorama in every direction. Far below, the San Juan Islands stretch over the moving blue- green sea like a parade of prehistoric sea monsters. Some lie flat with sandy tails floating out behind, while dark bulky heights suggest the submerged shoulders of a creature feeding on the bottom. In the foreground the island- dotted tide flows through a 30-mile-wide channel between Canadian and American shores. On a clear day the outlines of Victoria and Bellingham and the crags of the mountain peaks beyond in the Cascade and Olympic ranges, stand out in clean-cut detail. Mount Constitution is a primary station in all geodetic surveys of this region, as indicated by a series of brass bench-markers. The International Boundary Line through this region was determined from this point. At 5.1 m. on the main highway are the barracks of CAMP MoRAN
(L), a large CCC camp, whose members have created most of the trails, campsites, roads, and other improvements in Moran State Park. The highway, at 5.8 m., skirts the brushy east shore (L) of CAS- CADE LAKE (fishing, picnicking), stocked with trout by the State Game Commission. Formerly, there were no fish in this lake, a fact attributed by an Indian legend to the anger of Raven, who destroyed them by hurling a thunderbolt into the lake from the top of Mount Constitution. Near the shore in a grove of Douglas firs are grassy picnic grounds with log shelter houses and outdoor cooking facilities. A Concrete Arch, 6.4 m., over the highway marks the western entrance to Moran State Park. At 6.6 m. is a junction (L) with a graveled road. Left on this road, 1.5 m., to ROSARIO, former estate of Robert Moran, donor of Moran State Park. Once a show-place of the islands, where visitors were welcomed, this 1,8oo-acre estate with its low, stone mansion was sold by its owner in 1938. At CRESCENT BEACH, 10.2 m., a few summer cottages face upon a beach that slopes gradually into the shallow water of SHIP BAY (L). EASTSOUND, 10.5 m. (30 alt., 256 pop.), (resorts, cabin camps, riding, tennis), largest settlement on the island, is a crossroads trading center at the head of East Sound. Comfortable old houses with orchards are scattered behind the few frame business buildings along the bay shore. The W. R. Gr1ff1n House Museum (open) has a collection of fossils from Sucia Island. Right from Eastsound on a graveled road to NORTH BEACH, 1.5 m., a seaside resort district. Inn and cabin accommodations, riding horses, sand-beach bathing, salmon-trolling outfits, and boats ranging from powered skiffs to small yachts, are available here. Northward, in Georgia Strait, lie the rocky SUCIA ISLANDS, flanked on the northwest and southeast by PATOS and MATIA ISLANDS. (Weekly summer service by motor launch; Wed. from Orcas Island; Thurs. from Lummi Island, $oc; Sun. from Bellingham, $1/ launch also available for chartered trips). Sucia was named by Lieutenant Eliza from a Spanish word meaning "foul." Patos (Sp. ducks) was probably named for its wild fowl. The Sucia Islands have a peculiar formation, owing to alternating strata of rock, one resistant, the other yielding to erosion by sea water. FOSSIL BAY, at Sucia's southern end, is rich in paleontological specimens: a clay bank here once yielded the perfect foreleg and hoof of a tiny prehistoric horse; these specimens were sent to the Smithsonian Institution. South of Eastsound the main road leaves the seaside and crosses to the western half of Orcas Island, skirting the foot of the TURTLE- BACK RANGE (R). The route traverses the farming section of the island. Dairy herds and grazing sheep are seen along the way. At 16.5 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right here to WESTSOUND, 0.9 m. 30 (alt., 75 pop.). A store and post office serve the community, represented by a row of attractive houses along the shore of White Beach Bay, an indentation of West Sound. Double Island, mainland-bound at low water, lies close to the sound's entrance; other small, green isles dot its surface.
1. Right from Westsound on a trail to TURTLEBACK MOUNTAINS (alt, 1,497), 1-5 m., overlooking President Channel and Waldron Island. To tbe west lie Spieden and Stuart Islands, with the Canadian islands across Haro Strait huddled about the southeastern shore of Vancouver Island. On the south- ernmost summit of the Turtleback Range is an old Marker, the origin of which has mystified the island's inhabitants since the earliest days. It consists of small boulders arranged on the ground in the shape of a large anchor, and is sup- posed to have been placed here by the survivors of some early shipwreck, more than 100 years ago. WALDRON ISLAND (mailboat service from Orcas Island and Bellingham on regular schedule), on the northwest, is seen to advantage from this point. Sheep-raising is the island's leading occupation. Quarries there once supplied sandstone for jetties at the mouth of the Columbia River. The Ethan Allen House Museum (fee voluntary) contains a large collection of artifacts, gathered over a lifetime by a descendant of the Revolutionary War hero, comprising more than 3,000 items, including arrowheads, spearheads, Indian baskets, pottery, stone dishes, grinding implements, paint pots, ornaments, and ceremonial pieces. 2. Right from Westsound, a graveled road rounds Haida Point, which divides White Beach Bay from Massacre Bay, at which a battle between Indian bands took place before 1860. Diminutive SKULL ISLAND (L), named for the number of skulls and bones excavated here, is thought to have been the common burial ground for fallen Indian braves. Many conflicts were provoked by the warlike Haidahs, Bella Bellas, and Bella Coolas of British Columbia, who preyed upon the more peaceful San Juan Islanders and frequently carried them off as slaves. The island Indians lived mainly on fish, clams, crabs, and other seafoods. Clams, dried before campfires, were preserved for winter food: and fresh venison was also obtainable, for the islands were overrun with deer. Remnants of willow-bark nets, bone fishhooks, stone sinkers, bone teeth from herring rakes, celts used for digging out canoes, and arrowheads and spear points have been found throughout the archipelago. DEER HARBOR (hotel, cabins, saddle horses), 4.9 m. (20 alt.. 99 pop.), is a resort district on a small bight of the same name. Along the western cliffs of the shady green cove are feldspar deposits which reach 60 feet in thickness and 300 in depth. Feldspar is used in glazing pottery and manufacturing glass, but the demand has not justified development at this point. South from Deer Harbor, the road winds through thick glades along tbe western shore of the bay and breaks into the open at POLE PASS, 6.5 nu Although the narrow aperture seems only wide enough for a skiff, boats of considerable size negotiate the passage. On CRANE ISLAND, directly opposite, the gnarled arms of windswept firs and junipers point the direction of prevailing winds. South of the junction the main road leads into the forested middle lobe of Orcas Island and emerges on a small bay. ORCAS, 19.1 m. (12 alt., 20 pop.), has a store and warehouse on the ferry dock. On the hill sloping back from the beach stands a white hotel converted from an old residence. A mile across the channel is Shaw Island (flap ferry stop). Leaving Orcas, the ferry turns westward through a maze of water- ways, studded with rocks and wooded islets. BROKEN POINT, a small cross-shaped peninsula, reaches out from the indented and strati- fied shoreline of SHAW ISLAND (a flag stop). The ferry enters narrow WASP PASSAGE, which separates Crane Island and heavily timbered CLIFF ISLAND, on the right, from Shaw Island, on tbe left. A cluster of small rocks, extending from NECK POINT (Shaw Island), marks the entrance to SAN JUAN CHANNEL, subject of
controversy in 1859 when Britain claimed it to be the International Boundary Line (see History). On almost any summer day purse-seine boats with their elevated round sterns and swivel platforms are seen circling about. Purse-seining, which traps fish in an encircling net with a draw-string at the bottom, is said to have been introduced on Puget Sound by the Chinese in 1886. Occasionally, in this region are seen reminders of an easy but now illegal method of catching salmon—rows of piles, to which nets were attached, extending from the shore. Slipping southward along San Juan Channel between SHAW ISLAND, on the left, and San Juan Island, on the right, the ferry reaches FRIDAY HARBOR (sea level, 658 pop.), on a crescent- shaped bay of the same name, almost completely land-locked by Brown Island at its entrance. Friday Harbor took its name from "Friday," an aged Kanaka brought here from the Hawaiian Islands by the Hud- son's Bay Company to herd its sheep. Perched on the rocky shore (R) are the buildings of the University of Washington Oceanographic Laboratories. A large fish cannery (L) and a pea cannery (R) face the harbor from the water front. From the ferry landing the main thoroughfare ascends a gradual incline, fronted by a variety of mercantile establishments, to the flat above the harbor where the residence district, school buildings, and courthouse spread out from the main street. Small-launch transportation between the islands has centralized insular business at Friday Harbor, the principal ferry point, and seat of San Juan County. It has the only bank, creamery, newspaper, automobile agency, motion picture theater, and drugstore in the San Juan Group. Section b. FRIDAY HARBOR-FRIDAY HARBOR, 24.3 m. This section of the tour explores San Juan Island, with side trips to quaint old Roche Harbor and other points of interest. Northwest of FRIDAY HARBOR, 0 m., the main county road winds among garden plots and outlying homes. At 0.8 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right on this road 0.7 m. to the Un1vers1ty of Wash1ngton Oceano- graph1c Laborator1es (open 2-5 weekdays; no visitors allowed in laboratories; firearms and pets not allowed; picking of flowers prohibited). Seven concrete and tile buildings, on a 484-acre tract which fronts on two miles of water, include laboratories, a stockroom, dining and social hall, and the residences of the cura- tor and director. During the summer months, tent houses spring up over the grounds to house visiting students. Field trips are made aboard the Catalyst, a 75-foot Diesel-powered research boat. The 50-foot vessel Medea is used for dredging and water sampling. The laboratories are in the center of a biological preserve which comprises all marine waters of San Juan County. The United States Coast and Geodetic Survey maintains a tidal station here, and the United States Weather Bureau has a meteorological station for observation of solar radiation. The wide variety and abundance of the algae (seaweed) growing in the waters of San Juan archipelago is important both scientifically and economically. Brown, green, blue-green, and red specimens range in size from microscopic types to the giant kelp, or sea onion, with a 30 to 90-foot stem, usually attached to submerged rocks, and with wide ribbon-like streamers reaching to the surface.
Many varieties were cooked and eaten by Indians and early settlers. The Indians favored a green variety, called slukkish, with masses of narrow leaves. Research has recently found slukkish and other varieties exceedingly rich in vitamin*, A, B, C, and G, and because of their high content of organic iodine they have been recommended for the prevention of goiter. The island waters also contain some unusual species of marine life. North and west of the junction the main highway winds through a rolling country with sloping green fields. Small SPORTSMAN LAKE (L), 4.1 m., is bordered by rough, brush-lined shores to which anglers go down to catch the chubby bass. At 8.4 m., the entrance to the San Juan International Camp for Boys, is a junction with a graveled cross road. Right on this road around the head of Westcott Bay (L), and down a hill through green junipers and madronas to Roche Harbor, enclosed by small islands. ROCHE HARBOR, 1.6 m. (50 alt., 100 pop.), a picturesque little settlement at the northern tip of San Juan Island, is owned and controlled by the Roche Harbor Lime and Cement Company, but has none of the depressing aspects of the typical "company town." A pastoral air pervades the gardens and bouses and the jagged rocks of the little cove. A small, white-steepled schoolhousc nestles snugly against a green-foliaged hillside. Roses and dahlias grow beneath tall, gay hollyhocks. Set between steep hillsides, the vine-covered and balconied Hotel De Haro (L}, with its antique furniture, blends harmoniously with sur- roundings that re-create an atmosphere of the nineties. Arbored entrances lead to embowered and wistaria-hung gardens where immense outdoor fireplaces invite barbecues. John S. McMillan opened lime quaries here in the eighties, and built the Roche Harbor L1me Plant (visitors apply at office; guides furnished). Snug Roche Harbor, virtually landlocked by little PEARL ISLAND in its northern entrance, is a favorite anchorage for yachts cruising among the San Juans. Stripped of her sails and moored in the harbor is the famous clipper ship La Escocesa (Sp. The Scottish Lady). She was built in 1868 in Dundee, Scot- land, and challenged Young America, a much larger vessel, to a race from San Francisco to Liverpool. Young America won, with a record cruising of tofi days; La Escocesa arrived 13 days later, losing her backers $40,000. In 1926 she was placed in service by the Roche Harbor Lime and Cement Company, but has not been used in recent years. Right from Roche Harbor on a road marked "Private" to the Columbar1um, 1.3 m., a strange structure, built for a purpose known only to the designer, the late John S. McMillan. Seven Doric columns, one with a broken shaft, encircle the columbarium. Within the circle is a large round stone table with six stone chairs, each inscribed with the name of a member of his family. A space is left for a seventh chair. West and south of the junction the main road turns south through rocky hills. At 9.8 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right here to the Engl1sh Camp, 0.5 m., the site of the British marines' camp between 1860 and 1872. It is entered through the Davis-Crook farm (private, admission 10c). The English Blockhouse, a small log structure, with an over- hanging upper story set diagonally across a lower room, stands at the border of Garrison Bay, which the grounds overlook. Two crumbling old buildings, reputedly the barracks and commissary occupied by the British, still mark the campsite (see History). A path (L) leads up a hill to the Br1t1sh Occupat1on Monument, which marks the former site of the residence occupied by Captain Delacombe, British post commander. On the grounds is the Mary C. Dav1s House Museum, containing old photo-
graphs, relics, and a yellow time-worn map of the camp drawn by a British marine. South of the junction, the main road passes alternating patches of woodland and cultivated farms. Looming ahead is MOUNT DALLAS (alt. 1,936), the highest point on San Juan Island, named after Alex- ander Dallas of the Hudson's Bay Company. The road swings through rolling hills with the flat expanse of the San Juan Valley visible in the distance; well-tilled farms, many of them pea ranches, dot the valley. At planting time in the spring, each pea farmer is allotted a planting date: thus the crops ripen successively, assuring steady operation for the cannery at Friday Harbor. At 21 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right here to Amer1can Camp, 5 m., where, during a boundary dispute humorously referred to as the "Pig War," the Ninth United States Infantry, under command of Captain George Pickett, made camp in 1859, >n opposition to the English camp. The British-American treaty of 1846 left the International Boundary through these islands so vague that both countries claimed them, and citizens of each settled here. Complications arose in 1858, when Whatcom County levied taxes on English sheep grazing on the island. The following year an English pig rooted up an American potato patch and was shot. The situation immediately became tense. Troops made camp at opposite ends of the island, and there was much international bristling. During the succeeding period of arbitration, however, the opposing camps vied with each other in an exchange of complimentary banquets. The matter was ended in 1872 when Emperor William I of Germany, as arbiter, selected the present boundary line (tee History). North of the junction the main road follows a ridge overlooking GRIFFIN BAY, named in honor of Charles John Griffin, overseer of the Hudson's Bay Farm on San Juan and one of the principals in the pig controversy. The bay is a crescent-shaped indentation formed by the southeast tip of San Juan Island. Completing its circuit of the island, the main road ends at FRIDAY HARBOR, 24.3 m. Section c. FRIDAY HARBOR-ANACORTES, 23 m. by ferry, 2% hrs.; ANACORTES-MOUNT VERNON, 17.1 m. by auto. Fares: Passenger, one way, 70c; car and driver, $2.15. The ferry route from Friday Harbor follows an easterly winding course along deep green aisles between rock-bound, tree-covered islands, every turn presenting a new vista of tide-washed shore. Leaving Friday Harbor, the ferry runs eastward for four miles across the San Juan Channel to Upright Channel. Soon, CANOE ISLAND, a rocky upthrust of about 50 acres surmounted by dark green conifers, narrows Upright Channel to river width. On the east looms the huge bulk of LOPEZ ISLAND. Twelve miles long and four miles wide, its deeply indented southern shore peppered with small islands and bare rocks, Lopez, with a population of 600, ranks third in size and agri- cultural importance among the San Juans. Its north coast is a salmon fishing center. The island was named in 1791 by Lieutenant Eliza
for Lopez de Haro, thought to be the first to sight it. Several small settlements and a scattering of farming communities are connected by graveled roads to the ferry landing at UPRIGHT HEAD, where a large size sign offers water front property and individual islands for sale at an amazing variety of prices. One 20-acre island was sold in the 1930's for the bargain price of fifty dollars. East of Upright Head, the passage emerges into Lopez Sound and swings through Thatcher Pass. Not the least of this region's marvels is the skill of its navigators, who, during the fall and winter fogs, nimbly trace their way through treacherous passages in the blind mist. It is said that the late Captain Sam Barlow could thrust his head out of the wheelhouse window and with one sniff tell his exact location. Actually, local pilots can determine their ships' positions in fog-bound waters by the echoes of their whistles from the invisible shores. Two miles farther, to the left, BLAKELY ISLAND, named for Johnston Blakely, an American naval hero of the war of 1812, rises with steep forested slopes from the sea to stony heights. Rocky DECA- TUR ISLAND, three miles beyond Blakely, on the right, was named for Stephen Decatur, distinguished American naval officer. Not quite four square miles in area, its heavily-forested slopes descend to a curving beach on the west; here crabs are found in abundance. Off-shore, a few hundred yards from the south headland of this half-moon bay, JAMES ISLAND, with a total area of 100 acres, closely resembles a half- submerged dumbbell, its high promontories on either end linked by a small central isthmus. As the ferry crosses Rosaria Strait, BIRD ROCKS, to the right, thrust their three crags above the sea and serve as roosts for sea gulls and cormorants. Close by them, BELLE ROCK, marked by a bell buoy, is usually hidden under water. Botanists say the trees Vancouver noted on CYPRESS ISLAND, two miles farther, on the left, were actually junipers. Virtually devoid of roads and scantily populated, the island has deposits of iron ore that have never been developed. Midway across Rosario Strait, the open channel affords views of the Olympic Mountains to the south. GUEMES ISLAND is passed next, on the left, its southwest corner marked by a yellow bluff. It was named by Eliza for the Viceroy of Mexico. Triangular in shape, its eight square miles are heavily wooded. On the southeast, the shore land rises steeply to the highest point. A few farms are scattered about the island, and a tiny Indian village is on its northwest tip. Large deposits of plastic clay are found here. The ferry heads into Guemes Channel between FIDALGO ISL- AND, right, and Guemes Island. ANACORTES, the ferry terminus (sea level, 5,875 pop.), is a fish- ing and lumbering center on the northwest point of Fidalgo Island, connected with the mainland over bridged sloughs. The town is a checkerboard of wide streets, where neat buildings of brick and con-
crete predominate over old frame structures. Parkways and skillful land- scaping distinguish parts of the residential section. CAP SANTE, a dominating headland, rises abruptly east of the flat occupied by the city, and forms a peninsula separating Guemes Channel and Fidalgo Bay, the town's north and east boundaries. Two deeply in- dented coves in Fidalgo Bay provide storage for the log booms that supply local mills, and safe anchorage for the fishing fleet that moors at the end of 13 th Street. Saw and shingle mills, box and plywood factories, a fish reduction factory, a pulp and paper mill, tuna, salmon, and codfish canneries, wharves and warehouses, are strung along the water front. The Fisher- men's Packing Corporation, a co-operative, operates the biggest cannery on Puget Sound. Whalers, seeking a place to careen their ships in order to rid them of barnacles, visited Fidalgo Island 100 years ago, finding what they called "Squaw Harbor." Later known as "Ship Harbor," and briefly as "Magic City," the settlement which took root in 1860 was finally named Anacortes for Anna Curtis, wife of Amos Bowman, an early settler. Surviving a somewhat exciting career of early booms and slumps, its basic industries periodically beset by fish pirates and "log slicers," Anacortes today has the air of a settled community, its thoroughfares reflecting a conscious civic pride. East of Anacortes on State I, the route traverses the Skagit Flats (see Tour 8C), to a junction with US 99 in Mount Vernon, 17.1 m. (see Tour 8a), which is 20.3 miles south of Chuckanut on US 99 Alt., where Island Tour 3 began.
Appendices
1579 Francis Drake sails to the Pacific Northwest coast, naming the region New Albion (New England). 1592 Apostolos Valerianos (Juan de Fuca) is alleged to have found a strait. 1774 Juan Perez sails along the coast; he sights a mountain (Olym- pus), which he names Sierra de Santa Rosalia. 1775 Bruno Heceta and Juan de Bodega y Quadra land on Wash- ington coast (near the present Point Grenville) and take pos- session for Spain. 1778 Captain James Cook, on his last voyage, names Cape Flattery, misses discovery of the Strait near by, and makes survey from forty-fourth to seventieth parallel. 1787 Captain Charles W. Barkley finds strait northeast of Cape Flattery and "re-names" it Juan de Fuca, after its legendary discoverer. 1788 Captain John Meares explores Juan de Fuca Strait, re-names Mount Olympus, and, missing the River of the West, names Cape Disappointment. 1789 Estevan Martinez, Spaniard, confiscates British ships at Nootka Sound. 1790 Manuel Quimper, Spanish seaman, explores as far as San Juan Islands, and takes formal possession at Neah Bay. 1791 Francisco de Eliza, from a temporary base at Discovery Bay, sends small boats as far as Bellingham Bay. Salvador Fidalgo sets up a provisional establishment at Neah Bay. 1792 Captain Robert Gray discovers and names Bulfinch (Grays) Harbor; he discovers and names the Columbia River, anchoring on the north side, trading for furs. Captain George Vancouver, here to negotiate with Bodega y Quadra a settlement between England and Spain, explores Admiralty Inlet and Puget Sound; and, at a point near Everett, takes possession for George III of England, re-naming New Albion New Georgia. Lieutenant Broughton, under Vancouver's orders, ascends the Columbia River to Point Vancouver. 1794 Spain makes restitution for property seized by Martinez at Nootka Sound.
1803 United States purchases Louisiana Territory, increasing interest in the Oregon country. 1805 Lewis and Clark reach mouth of Columbia River and return to and St. Louis. This exploration gives the United States further 1806 claim to the Oregon country. 1810 North West Fur Company establishes Spokane House (nine miles northwest of present Spokane), the first white settlement within limits of the present State. 1811 Astoria, in present Oregon, is founded by John Jacob Astor's Pacific Fur Company. David Thompson reaches mouth of Columbia River, after ex- ploring from Kettle Falls to the mouth of the Snake River, and claims all land north of the Snake River for England. Fort Okanogan is established by agents of the Pacific Fur Company. 1812 Fort Spokane is established by the Pacific Fur Company, near Spokane House, to compete with the North West Company. 1813 The North West Company, taking advantage of the War of 1812, purchases all of the property of the Pacific Fur Company in the valley of the Columbia. 1818 Fort Nez Perce (Fort Walla Walla) is built by the North West Company. Joint occupancy of Oregon country by Americans and British is established by a convention to cover ten years. 1819 The Florida treaty with Spain gives the United States any and all rights claimed by Spain to the Oregon country. 1821 The North West Company and the Hudson's Bay Company amalgamate under the name of the latter. 1825 Hudson's Bay Company establishes Fort Vancouver on north bank of Columbia. 1826 Fort Colvile is built by Hudson's Bay Company; Spokane House is abandoned. 1827 A renewal of the convention with Great Britain continues joint occupancy indefinitely; one year's notice is required to modify the pact. 1832 Captain Bonneville arrives overland at Fort Vancouver, but is unable to purchase goods to compete with Hudson's Bay Com- pany. Nathaniel Wyeth arrives at Fort Vancouver, but his busi- ness enterprises are temporarily halted by Dr. John McLoughlin of Hudson's Bay Company. First school at Fort Vancouver is taught by John Ball. 1833 Fort Nesqually, first trading post on Puget Sound, is established by Archibald McDonald. 1835 Lieutenant William Slacum of the United States Army arrives on the Columbia, to report on conditions of trade and population. 1836 Marcus Whitman and H. H. Spalding, missionaries, arrive with their wives, first American women in Oregon country. Whit- man establishes a mission at Waiilatpu near Fort Walla Walla.
1838 The Walker-Eells Protestant mission to the Spokane is begun. Fathers Blanchet and Demers arrive at Fort Vancouver by way of the Columbia from Canada. 1839 A Roman Catholic mission is established at Cowlitz Landing. A Methodist mission is established at Fort Nesqually. 1840 A Catholic mission is established on Whidbey Island. 1841 The Wilkes Expedition arrives at Fort Nesqually. The main field of exploration is Puget Sound, but small parties go to Fort Okanogan, Fort Colvile, and Fort Walla Walla, also Fort Vancouver, Grays Harbor, and Shoalwater Bay (Willapa Harbor). 1843 Influx of immigrants assumes large proportions. Oregon Provisional Government forms at Champoeg. 1844 Boundary slogan, "Fifty-four-forty or fight," is prominent in the Presidential campaign. 1845 Lieutenants Warre and Vavasour of the British Army arrive incognito on the Columbia, to survey the territory, in view of a possible war with the United States. 1845 Michael T. Simmons and his party, first American settlers in the Puget Sound region, reach Tumwater. 1846 United States-Canadian boundary is fixed at 490 N.; Hudson's Bay Company plans to move headquarters to site of Victoria on Vancouver Island. Settlement begins at site of Olympia. 1847 A band of Cayuse Indians at Waiilatpu kill Dr. and Mrs. Whitman and eleven others at the mission. First American sawmill erected at Tumwater by Michael Simmons. 1848 Oregon Territory, including all of present Washington, is created. 1849 Fort Steilacoom is established by the United States Army, be- cause Snoqualmie Indians have attacked Squally Indians at Fort Nesqually. 1850 The Donation Land Claim Law is passed by Congress. 1851 Schooner Exact brings members of Denny pioneer party to Alki Point (now in Seattle). The Cowlitz Convention memorializes Congress to create the region north of the Columbia a separate Territory to be named Columbia. 1852 Cowlitz convention meets and again petitions Congress for the Territory of Columbia. First settlers come to Bellingham Bay. Nicholas DeLin settles on Commencement Bay, at site of Tacoma. Claims are staked on Seattle metropolitan site by Denny, Boren, and Bell. First Washington newspaper, the Columbian, is printed in Olympia; it strongly advocates the new Territory. 1853 Washington Territory is created; white population number
3,965. First northern-route transcontinental-railroad survey is begun, under Isaac I. Stevens. Isaac I. Stevens is appointed Territorial Governor and Super- visor of Indian Affairs. Olympia is named the temporary capital. 1854 First Federal Court session in Washington Territory convenes; first legislature meets and provides for University; Congress makes grant of two townships. December 26, Medicine Creek Treaty is concluded, first with Indians of Puget Sound Basin. Treaties are negotiated with Puget Sound and Juan de Fuca Strait tribes. 1855 Indian war is waged both east and west of the Cascades; Klicki- tat Indians fail in an attack upon Seattle and later are severely defeated at Connell's Prairie. Eastern Washington is closed to settlers and miners. 1857 Governor Stevens is elected to represent the Territory in Con- gress. Territorial charter is granted Northern Pacific Railroad. 1858 Lieutenant Colonel Steptoe is defeated near Rosalia. Colonel Wright defeats Indians at Spokane Plains and Four Lakes. Eastern Washington is opened to settlement. 1859 The Fraser River gold rush begins. San Juan Islands boundary controversy between England and United States becomes acute. The gold rush to eastern Washington Territory (especially the part now Idaho) begins. Indian treaties negotiated by Governor Stevens are ratifiel by Congress. 1860 Population: 11,594. Walla Walla becomes outfitting point for gold rush. 1861 The Territorial University is opened at Seattle, with Asa S. Mercer as teacher and president, and one student, Clarence Bagley, in the college department. 1863 Territory of Idaho is created from Washington Territory, estab- lishing the present eastern boundary of the State. 1864 "Mercer girls"—Civil War orphans and widows—are brought to Seattle by Asa Mercer. They find husbands waiting. Completion of first transcontinental telegraph lines. 1866 Some 95 more y Mercer girls" arrive. 1867 The legislature memorializes Congress to admit Washington to statehood. Alaska, "the Great Country," is purchased from Russia. 1869 United States settles the Hudson's Bay Company's claim for property in the Territory. 1870 The first bank in the Territory is established at Walla Walla by Dorsey S. Baker. Work is begun on the Northern Pacific Railroad, from Kalama on the Columbia northward to Puget Sound. Population: 23,355.
1871 The San Juan Islands boundary dispute with Great Britain is submitted to arbitration. 1872 Settlement of Spokane Falls is begun. The San Juan dispute is settled; the award, by Emperor William I of Germany, is in accord with the United States contention. Dr. Dorsey S. Baker begins to build his railroad from Walla Walla to Wallula, on the Columbia. 1873 Northern Pacific Railroad from Kalama reaches Tacoma, which has won the coveted terminal. 1875 The railroad from Walla Walla to Wallula is completed. 1876 The Territory votes to hold a constitutional convention and again apply for admission as a State. The proposed State con- stitution is adopted, but Congress fails to respond. 1880 Population: 75,116. 1881 The transcontinental line of the Northern Pacific is completed to Spokane Falls. 1883 Railroad connections between Puget Sound and the East are established via the Columbia River route. 1885 Anti-Chinese riots occur in Issaquah, Coal Creek, Black Diamond, and Tacoma. 1886 Anti-Chinese riots occur in Seattle. 1887 The Northern Pacific reaches Tacoma, via switchbacks at the summit of the Cascades. 1888 The Stampede tunnel is opened, thus eliminating the switchbacks. 1889 The enabling act passes Congress and is signed on February 22. The Constitution Convention assembles at Olympia on July 4. The Constitution is adopted October 1. November 11, Wash- ington is proclaimed a State by President Harrison. 1890 Population: 337,232. 1891 Puget Sound Navy Yard is voted by Congress and located at Bremerton. 1892 State College of Washington is opened at Pullman. 1893 Great Northern Railroad reaches Seattle, having passed up the new city of Everett as terminus. 1895 The University of Washington is moved to its present location. The Barefoot Schoolboy Law is enacted, laying the basis for Washington's common-school system. 1896 Trans-Pacific steamship service is inaugurated by Nipon Yusen Kaisya. 1897 Gold rush to Klondike begins. 1898 Washington contributes 1,332 men for the Spanish-American War. 1899 March 2. Mount Rainier National Park is created. 1900 Population: 518,103. 1901 State Bureau of Labor is created. 1902 Federal Reclamation Act is passed by Congress; projects are begun in Okanogan and Yakima Counties.
| 1. Right from Westsound on a trail to TURTLEBACK MOU- 1,497), 1.5 m., overlooking President Channel and Waldron I- west lie Spieden and Stuart Islands, with the Canadian islands Strait huddled about the southeastern shore of Vancouver Island. ernmost summit of the Turtleback Range is an old MARKER, the ori. has mystified the island's inhabitants since the earliest days. It con boulders arranged on the ground in the shape of a large anchor, posed to have been placed here by the survivors of some early shi; than 100 years ago. WALDRON ISLAND (mailboat service from and Bellingham on regular schedule), on the northwest, is seen t from this point. Sheep-raising is the island's leading occupation. Q. once supplied sandstone for jetties at the mouth of the Columbia ETHAN ALLEN House MUSEUM (fee voluntary) contains a large artifacts, gathered over a lifetime by a descendant of the Revoluti hero, comprising more than 3,000 items, including arrowheads, Indian baskets, pottery, stone dishes, grinding implements, paint pots, and ceremonial pieces. 2. Right from Westsound, a graveled road rounds Haida Point, whº White Beach Bay from Massacre Bay, at which a battle between II. took place before 1860. Diminutive SKULL ISLAND (L), name number of skulls and bones excavated here, is thought to have been tº burial ground for fallen Indian braves. Many conflicts were provoſ warlike Haidahs, Bella Bellas, and Bella Coolas of British Columbia, wº upon the more peaceful San Juan Islanders and frequently carried th: slaves. The island Indians lived mainly on fish, clams, crabs, and other Clams, dried before campfires, were preserved for winter food: venison was also obtainable, for the islands were overrun with deer. of willow-bark nets, bone fishhooks, stone sinkers, bone teeth from her celts used for digging out canoes, and arrowheads and spear points found throughout the archipelago. DEER HARBOR (hotel, cabins, saddle horses), 4.9 m. (20 alt., 99 a resort district on a small bight of the same name. Along the wester the shady green cove are feldspar deposits which reach 6o feet in thi. 3oo in depth. Feldspar is used in glazing pottery and manufacturing the demand has not justified development at this point. South from Deer Harbor, the road winds through thick glades western shore of the bay and breaks into the open at POLE PAS · Although the narrow aperture seems only wide enough for a skiff, considerable size negotiate the passage. On CRANE ISLAND, directly opposite, the gnarled arms of wind and junipers point the direction of prevailing winds. South of the junction the main road leads into the forest lobe of Orcas Island and emerges on a small bay. ORCAS, 19.1 m. (12 alt., 20 pop.), has a store and was the ferry dock. On the hill sloping back from the beach stan, hotel converted from an old residence. A mile across the Shaw Island (flag ferry stop). Leaving Orcas, the ferry turns westward through a maze ways, studded with rocks and wooded islets. BROKEN I small cross-shaped peninsula, reaches out from the indented fied shoreline of SHAW ISLAND (a flag stop). The narrow WASP PASSAGE, which separates Crane Island timbered CLIFF ISLAND, on the right, from Shaw Isl. left. A cluster of small rocks, extending from NECK PO; Island), marks the entrance to SAN JUAN CHANNEl
Great Britain - -- - -- peror William - ºtes contention. == - d from Walla --- = - - hes Tacoma, -- - completed. E- - - onvention and == - - sed State con- - -- - - - - - -- c is completed the East are Creek, Black hbacks at the le switchbacks. February 22. bia on July 4. ber 11, Wash- -Orl. and located at iſl. passed up the esent location. the basis for Nipon Yusen unish-American ºted. s; projects are
Many varieties were cooked and eaten by Indians and early settlers. The Indians favored a green variety, called slukkish, with masses of narrow leaves. Research has recently found slukkish and other varieties exceedingly rich in vitamins, A, B, C, and G, and because of their high content of organic iodine they have been recommended for the prevention of goiter. The island waters also contain some unusual species of marine life. North and west of the junction the main highway winds through a rolling country with sloping green fields. Small SPORTSMAN LAKE (L), 4.1 m., is bordered by rough, brush-lined shores to which anglers go down to catch the chubby bass. At 8.4 m., the entrance to the San Juan International Camp for Boys, is a junction with a graveled cross road. Right on this road around the head of Westcott Bay (L), and down a hill through green junipers and madronas to Roche Harbor, enclosed by small islands. ROCHE HARBOR, 1.6 m. (50 alt., 1oo pop.), a picturesque little settlement at the northern tip of San Juan Island, is owned and controlled by the Roche Harbor Lime and Cement Company, but has none of the depressing aspects of the typical “company town.” A pastoral air pervades the gardens and houses and the jagged rocks of the little cove. A small, white-steepled schoolhouse nestles snugly against a green-foliaged hillside. Roses and dahlias grow beneath tall, gay hollyhocks. Set between steep hillsides, the vine-covered and balconied Hotel De Haro (L), with its antique furniture, blends harmoniously with sur- roundings that re-create an atmosphere of the nineties. Arbored entrances lead to embowered and wistaria-hung gardens where immense outdoor fireplaces invite barbecues. John S. McMillan opened lime quaries here in the eighties, and built the Roche HARBOR LIME PLANT (visitors apply at office; guides furnished). Snug Roche Harbor, virtually landlocked by little PEARL ISLAND in its northern entrance, is a favorite anchorage for yachts cruising among the San Juans. Stripped of her sails and moored in the harbor is the famous clipper ship La Escocesa (Sp. The Scottish Lady). She was built in 1868 in Dundee, Scot- land, and challenged Young America, a much larger vessel, to a race from San Francisco to Liverpool. Young America won, with a record cruising of 106 days; La Escocesa arrived 13 days later, losing her backers $40,000. In 1926 she was placed in service by the Roche Harbor Lime and Cement Company, but has not been used in recent years. Right from Roche Harbor on a road marked “Private” to the Columbarium, 1.3 m., a strange structure, built for a purpose known only to the designer, the late John S. McMillan. Seven Doric columns, one with a broken shaft, encircle the columbarium. Within the circle is a large round stone table with six stone chairs, each inscribed with the name of a member of his family. A space is left for a seventh chair. West and south of the junction the main road turns south through rocky hills. At 9.8 m. is a junction with a dirt road. Right here to the ENGLISH CAMP, 0.5 m., the site of the British marines' camp between 1860 and 1872. It is entered through the Davis-Crook farm (private, admission Ioc). The ENGLISH BlockHouse, a small log structure, with an over- hanging upper story set diagonally across a lower room, stands at the border of Garrison Bay, which the grounds overlook. Two crumbling old buildings, reputedly the barracks and commissary occupied by the British, still mark the campsite (see History). A path (L) leads up a hill to the BRITISH Occupation Monument, which marks the former site of the residence occupied by Captain Delacombe, British post commander. On the grounds is the MARY C. DAvis House MUSEUM, containing old photo-
graphs, relics, and a yellow time-worn map of the camp drawn by a British marine. South of the junction, the main road passes alternating patches of woodland and cultivated farms. Looming ahead is MOUNT DALLAS (alt. 1,936), the highest point on San Juan Island, named after Alex- ander Dallas of the Hudson's Bay Company. The road swings through rolling hills with the flat expanse of the San Juan Valley visible in the distance; well-tilled farms, many of them pea ranches, dot the valley. At planting time in the spring, each pea farmer is allotted a planting date: thus the crops ripen successively, assuring steady operation for the cannery at Friday Harbor. At 21 m. is a junction with a graveled road. Right here to AMERICAN CAMP, 5 m., where, during a boundary dispute humorously referred to as the “Pig War,” the Ninth United States Infantry, under command of Captain George Pickett, made camp in 1859, in opposition to the English camp. The British-American treaty of 1846 left the International Boundary through these islands so vague that both countries claimed them, and citizens of each settled here. Complications arose in 1858, when Whatcom County levied taxes on English sheep grazing on the island. The following year an English pig rooted up an American potato patch and was shot. The situation immediately became tense. Troops made camp at opposite ends of the island, and there was much international bristling. During the succeeding period of arbitration, however, the opposing camps vied with each other in an exchange of complimentary banquets. The matter was ended in 1872 when Emperor William I of Germany, as arbiter, selected the present boundary line (see History). North of the junction the main road follows a ridge overlooking GRIFFIN BAY, named in honor of Charles John Griffin, overseer of the Hudson's Bay Farm on San Juan and one of the principals in the pig controversy. The bay is a crescent-shaped indentation formed by the southeast tip of San Juan Island. Completing its circuit of the island, the main road ends at FRIDAY HARBOR, 24.3 m. Section c. FRIDAY HARBOR-ANACORTES, 23 m. by ferry, 2% hrs.; ANACORTES-MOUNT VERNON, 17.1 m. by auto. Fares: Passenger, one way, 7oc; car and driver, $2.15. The ferry route from Friday Harbor follows an easterly winding course along deep green aisles between rock-bound, tree-covered islands, every turn presenting a new vista of tide-washed shore. Leaving Friday Harbor, the ferry runs eastward for four miles across the San Juan Channel to Upright Channel. Soon, CANOE ISLAND, a rocky upthrust of about 50 acres surmounted by dark green conifers, narrows Upright Channel to river width. On the east looms the huge bulk of LOPEZ ISLAND. Twelve miles long and four miles wide, its deeply indented southern shore peppered with small islands and bare rocks, Lopez, with a population of 600, ranks third in size and agri- cultural importance among the San Juans. Its north coast is a salmon fishing center. The island was named in 1791 by Lieutenant Eliza
for Lopez de Haro, thought to be the first to sight it. Several small settlements and a scattering of farming communities are connected by graveled roads to the ferry landing at UPRIGHT HEAD, where a large size sign offers water front property and individual islands for sale at an amazing variety of prices. One 20-acre island was sold in the 1930's for the bargain price of fifty dollars. East of Upright Head, the passage emerges into Lopez Sound and swings through Thatcher Pass. Not the least of this region's marvels is the skill of its navigators, who, during the fall and winter fogs, nimbly trace their way through treacherous passages in the blind mist. It is said that the late Captain Sam Barlow could thrust his head out of the wheelhouse window and with one sniff tell his exact location. Actually, local pilots can determine their ships' positions in fog-bound waters by the echoes of their whistles from the invisible shores. Two miles farther, to the left, BLAKELY ISLAND, named for Johnston Blakely, an American naval hero of the war of 1812, rises with steep forested slopes from the sea to stony heights. Rocky DECA- TUR ISLAND, three miles beyond Blakely, on the right, was named for Stephen Decatur, distinguished American naval officer. Not quite four square miles in area, its heavily-forested slopes descend to a curving beach on the west; here crabs are found in abundance. Off-shore, a few hundred yards from the south headland of this half-moon bay, JAMES ISLAND, with a total area of IOO acres, closely resembles a half- submerged dumbbell, its high promontories on either end linked by a small central isthmus. As the ferry crosses Rosaria Strait, BIRD ROCKS, to the right, thrust their three crags above the sea and serve as roosts for sea gulls and cormorants. Close by them, BELLE ROCK, marked by a bell buoy, is usually hidden under water. Botanists say the trees Vancouver noted on CYPRESS ISLAND, two miles farther, on the left, were actually junipers. Virtually devoid of roads and scantily populated, the island has deposits of iron ore that have never been developed. Midway across Rosario Strait, the open channel affords views of the Olympic Mountains to the south. GUEMES ISLAND is passed next, on the left, its southwest corner marked by a yellow bluff. It was named by Eliza for the Viceroy of Mexico. Triangular in shape, its eight square miles are heavily wooded. On the southeast, the shore land rises steeply to the highest point. A few farms are scattered about the island, and a tiny Indian village is on its northwest tip. Large deposits of plastic clay are found here. The ferry heads into Guemes Channel between FIDALGO ISL- AND, right, and Guemes Island. ANACORTES, the ferry terminus (sea level, 5,875 pop.), is a fish- ing and lumbering center on the northwest point of Fidalgo Island, connected with the mainland over bridged sloughs. The town is a checkerboard of wide streets, where neat buildings of brick and con-
crete predominate over old frame structures. Parkways and skillful land- scaping distinguish parts of the residential section. CAP SANTE, a dominating headland, rises abruptly east of the flat occupied by the city, and forms a peninsula separating Guemes Channel and Fidalgo Bay, the town's north and east boundaries. Two deeply in- dented coves in Fidalgo Bay provide storage for the log booms that supply local mills, and safe anchorage for the fishing fleet that moors at the end of 13th Street. Saw and shingle mills, box and plywood factories, a fish reduction factory, a pulp and paper mill, tuna, salmon, and codfish canneries, wharves and warehouses, are strung along the water front. The Fisher- men's Packing Corporation, a co-operative, operates the biggest cannery on Puget Sound. Whalers, seeking a place to careen their ships in order to rid them of barnacles, visited Fidalgo Island 100 years ago, finding what they called “Squaw Harbor.” Later known as “Ship Harbor,” and briefly as “Magic City,” the settlement which took root in 1860 was finally named Anacortes for Anna Curtis, wife of Amos Bowman, an early settler. Surviving a somewhat exciting career of early booms and slumps, its basic industries periodically beset by fish pirates and “log slicers,” Anacortes today has the air of a settled community, its thoroughfares reflecting a conscious civic pride. East of Anacortes on State 1, the route traverses the Skagit Flats (see Tour 8C), to a junction with US 99 in Mount Vernon, 17.1 m. (see Tour 8a), which is 20.3 miles south of Chuckanut on US 99 Alt., where Island Tour 3 began.
PART IV Appendices Illilllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllliºl||||||||III: llllllllllll-llllllllllll:IIIlllllllll:IIIllill|III:IIIlllllllll:Illilililtilºilllllllllllkillllllllllll:IIIIIllii
1579 I592 I774 1775 1778 1787 1788 1789 1790 1791 1792 I 794 Chronology Francis Drake sails to the Pacific Northwest coast, naming the region New Albion (New England). Apostolos Valerianos (Juan de Fuca) is alleged to have found a Strait. Juan Perez sails along the coast; he sights a mountain (Olym- pus), which he names Sierra de Santa Rosalia. Bruno Heceta and Juan de Bodega y Quadra land on Wash- ington coast (near the present Point Grenville) and take pos- session for Spain. Captain James Cook, on his last voyage, names Cape Flattery, misses discovery of the Strait near by, and makes survey from forty-fourth to seventieth parallel. Captain Charles W. Barkley finds strait northeast of Cape Flattery and “re-names” it Juan de Fuca, after its legendary discoverer. Captain John Meares explores Juan de Fuca Strait, re-names Mount Olympus, and, missing the River of the West, names Cape Disappointment. Estevan Martinez, Spaniard, confiscates British ships at Nootka Sound. Manuel Quimper, Spanish seaman, explores as far as San Juan Islands, and takes formal possession at Neah Bay. Francisco de Eliza, from a temporary base at Discovery Bay, sends small boats as far as Bellingham Bay. Salvador Fidalgo sets up a provisional establishment at Neah Bay. Captain Robert Gray discovers and names Bulfinch (Grays) Harbor; he discovers and names the Columbia River, anchoring on the north side, trading for furs. Captain George Vancouver, here to negotiate with Bodega y Quadra a settlement between England and Spain, explores Admiralty Inlet and Puget Sound; and, at a point near Everett, takes possession for George III of England, re-naming New Albion New Georgia. Lieutenant Broughton, under Vancouver's orders, ascends the Columbia River to Point Vancouver. Spain makes restitution for property seized by Martinez at Nootka Sound.
1905 The State Railroad Commission, and the State Tax Commission are created. 1907 Direct primary law is passed. 1908 The North Bank railroad is built. 1909 Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition opens in Seattle. Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul Railroad reaches western terminus at Tacoma. 1910 Woman suffrage is voted for the State. Population: 1,141,990. 1911 Workman's Compensation Act is passed. 1912 Initiative, referendum, and recall measures are enacted. 1914 State-wide prohibition law is approved by referendum vote, with one year to elapse before it becomes effective. 1916 First transcontinental telephone service is extended to Seattle. The opening of the Panama Canal helps trade with East Coast. 1917 Washington sets many records in shipbuilding. Pierce County donates land for Camp (Fort) Lewis. Lake Washington Ship Canal is opened. 1918 Armistice. Washington has 67,694 men and 632 women in war service. 1919 Columbia Basin Survey Commission is appointed. First State American Legion Post is established. November 11. An armed clash, fatal to several, occurs at Cen- tralia, between marchers in Armistice Day parade and I.W.W. members. 1920 Sand Point Naval Air Base is dedicated. Foreign air-mail service begins between Seattle and Victoria. Population: 1,356,621. 1921 First airplane passenger service operates between Seattle and Vancouver, British Columbia. The Anti-alien Land Ownership Law is passed. 1922 The Columbia Basin Irrigation League is organized at Pasco. 1924 United States Army's "round-the-world" flight begins at Sand Point Naval Air Base; the journey of six months ends at Sand Point in September. 1928 Capitol building at Olympia is completed. 1930 August. Olympic Loop highway is opened. Population: 1,563,396. '933 Work starts at Bonneville Dam. Contracts are let on Grand Coulee Dam. 1934 State Liquor Law is passed, and control board is established. General maritime strike centers in Seattle. 1936 Seattle Post-Intelligencer suspends publication because of News- paper Guild strike. November 30. Guild strike ends, and Post-Intelligencer re- sumes publication. 1937 State Department of Social Security is established.
1938 January 29. President Roosevelt signs bill to create Olympic National Park. May 31. Boeing Pan-American Airways launches its 74-pas- senger clipper. 1939 The State celebrates Golden Jubilee, its fiftieth year of state- hood. 1940 Population: 1,736,191. 1941 Grand Coulee Dam, on the Columbia, is completed.
GENERAL INFORMATION Bauer, Eddie. Fishing directory of western Washington and British Columbia. Seattle, Bauer, 1937. 39 p., il. Bauer, Eddie. Ski Guide. Seattle, Bauer, 1936. Huse, Harry C. Motor vehicle laws of the state of Washington. Olympia, State Printing Office, 1937. 109 p. Pollock, Dave. Fishing guide of the Northwest. Seattle, General Publishing Co., 1937. 190 p., il. Smith, Charles Wesley. Union list of manuscripts in the libraries of the Pacific Northwest. Seattle, University of Washington, 1931. 57 p. Washington biennial blue book and official record. Yelm, Nisqually News, 1936. Washington State Bureau of Statistics and Immigration. Washing- ton: its people, products and resources; descriptive and statistical information of Washington, the "Evergreen State." Olympia, Secretary of State, 1938, 288 p., tables. Washington State Department of Game. Game code of the state of Washington. Seattle, 1937. 143 p. DESCRIPTION AND TRAVEL Fraser, Mary (Crawford), and Hugh C. Seven years on the Pacific slopes. New York, Dodd, Mead & Co., 1914. 391 p., il. pls. Hunt, Herbert, and Kaylor F. C, Washington west of the Cascades; historical and descriptive . . . Chicago, S. J. Clarke Publishing Co., 1917. 3 v. front., plates, ports. Meeker, Ezra. Seventy years of progress in Washington. Tacoma, Allstrom Printing Co., 1921. 381 p., il. Whitaker, Robert. "Washington; dawn of tomorrow." (In Gruen- ing, Ernest, ed., These United States, second series. New York, Boni & Liveright, 1924. v. 2; pp. 233-249). Winthrop, Theodore. The canoe and the saddle: or Klalam and Klick- itat. Tacoma, John E. Williams, 1913. 332 p., il. Travels in Washington in 1853.
NATURAL SETTING Geography and climate Fisher, L. C. Climatological data, Washington (state) section. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1937. tabs. (U.S. Department of Agriculture, Weather Bureau, v. n, no. 13). Landes, Henry. A geographic dictionary of Washington. Olympia, F. M. Lamborn, 1917. 346 p. (Washington Geographical Survey. Bulletin 17). Meany, Edmond S. Origin of Washington geographic names. Seattle, University of Washington, 1923. 357 p. Geology and paleontology Bretz, J. Harlen. Glaciation of the Puget Sound region. Olympia, F. M. Lamborn, 1913. 224 p., iL, tables, dgrms., charts. (Wash- ington Geological Survey. Bulletin No. 8). McLellan, Roy D. Geology of the San Juan Islands. Seattle, Uni- versity of Washington, 1927. 185 p., iL, maps. (University of Washington publications in geology, v. 2). Plant and Animal Life Abrams, Lorey. Illustrated flora of the Pacific states. Stanford University, Stanford University Press, 1923. 552 p., il. Dawson, William Leon, and J. N. Bowles. Birds of Washington. Seattle, Occidental Publishing Co., 1909. 2v., il. Piper, Charles V. Flora of the State of Washington. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1906. 637 p., il., pl., maps. (U.S. National Museum. Contributions from U. S. National Herbarium. v. 11). Taylor, Walter P., and William T. Shaw. Provisional list of land mammals of the state of Washington. Pullman, State College Press, 1929. 32 p., il. Description of Roosevelt elk and other mammals of the Olympic Mountains. Resources and conservation Lewis, Howard T., and Stephen L. Miller. The economic resources of the Pacific Northwest. Seattle, Lowman & Hanford Co., 1923. 523 p., il., maps, tables. Magnusson, Carl E. Hydroelectric power in Washington. Seattle, University of Washington, 1924-26-35. 3 v., tables, dgrms., maps. (University of Washington Engineering Experiment Sta- tion. Bulletins 26, 36, 78). Patty, Ernest N., and Sheldon L. Glover. Mineral resources of the state of Washington. Olympia, F. M. Lamborn, 1921. 155 p., il., tables. (Washington Geographical Survey. Bulletin No. 21). Washington State Planning Council. Balance sheets of the state of Washington. Secretary of State, Olympia, 1935. (Research publication No. 2). Concerned with food stuffs, fisheries, power, etc.
ARCHEOLOGY AND INDIANS Bagley, Clarence B. Indian myths of the Northwest. Seattle, Low- man & Hanford Co., 1930. 145 p., il. Carlson, Frank. Chief Sealth. Seattle, Pioneer Press, 1903. 35 p., ils. (Bulletins of the University of Washington, series 3, No. 2). The story of Chief Sealth (Seattle) and other Indians of King County. Costello, J. A. The Siwash; their life, legends, and tales. Seattle, Calvert, 1895. 169 p., il. Curtis, Edward S. The North American Indian. Seattle, E. S. Curtis, 1907-30. 20 v., il. (Washington Indians, v. 7-8-9). Kip, Lawrence. Army life on the Pacific. New York, Redfield Publishing Co., 1859. 144 p. Journal of experience with the Indians of eastern Washington. Krieger, Herbert W. A. "Prehistoric pit village site on the Columbia River at Wahluke, Grant County, Washington. (In U. S. National Museum, Proceedings. Washington, 1929. v. 73, art. 11; 1-29; il.) Mourning Dove (Humishuma). Coyote stories. Caldwell, Idaho, Caxton Printers, 1933. 228 p., il. Splawn, A. J. Ka-mi-akin, the last hero of the Yakimas. Portland, Oregon, Kilham Printing Co., 1917. 438 p., il. Thomas, Edward H. Chinook, a history and dictionary. Portland, Oregon, Metropolitan Press, 1925. 179 p. HISTORY AND GOVERNMENT General Allen, Paul. History of the expedition of Lewis and Clark. New York, Bradford and Inskeep, 1814. 500 p., il., maps. Evans, Elwood, and others. History of the Pacific Northwest: Ore- gon and Washington. Portland, Oregon, North Pacific His- tory Co., 1899. 2 v. Fuller, George W. A history of the Pacific Northwest. New York, Knopf, 1931. 383 p., il., maps. Fuller, George Washington. The Inland Empire of the Pacific Northwest; a history. Spokane, Linderman, 1928. 4 v. pl., ports., maps. Pollard, Lancaster, and Lloyd Spencer. A history of the state of Washington. New York, American Historical Society, 1937. 4 v., il., maps, pl., ports. Snowden, Clifton A. History of Washington. New York, Century History Co., 1906. 6 v., il., maps. Taylor, Arthur Samuel. Guide to the reading and study of the his- tory of the Pacific Northwest. Portland, Oregon, Metropolitan Press, 1935. 73 p., ils., maps.
Exploration and early settlement Blankenship, George E. Lights and shades of pioneer life on Puget Sound. Olympia, 1923. 90 p. Cannon, Miles. Waiilatpu: its rise and fall, 1836-1847. Boise, Capitol News Press, 1915. 171 pv il. Cox, Ross. Adventures on the Columbia River. New York, J. J. Harper, 1932. 335 p. An historical narrative of the period 1811-1817. Denny, Emily I. Blazing the way. Seattle, Rainier Printing Co., 1909. il. Tales of pioneer life on Puget Sound. Federal Writers' Project, W.P.A. The Oregon Trail; the Missouri River to the Pacific Ocean. (American Guide Series). N.Y. Hastings House, 1939. Sponsored by Oregon Trail Association. Lewis, Meriwether, and William Clark. Original journals of the Lewis and Clark expedition, 1804-1806; printed from the original manuscripts . . . together with manuscript material of Lewis and Clark from other sources. . . . Ed. with introduction, notes, and index by Reuben Gold Thwaites. N.Y. Dodd, Mead & Co., 1904-5. 8 v., il., map, facsm. MacDonald, Ronald. Ronald MacDonald, the narrative of his early life on the Columbia. Spokane, Eastern Washington State His- torical Society, 1923. 333 p., pl., ports., maps. Montgomery, Richard Gill. The fVhite-Headed Eagle, John Mc- Laughlin, builder of an empire. N. Y. Macmillan, 1934. 358 p., pl., ports. Ross, Alexander. Adventures of the first settlers on the Oregon or Columbia River. Smith, London, 1849. 352 p. Ruffner, Wm. Henry. Report on Washington Territory. New York, Seattle, Lakeshore and Eastern Railway, 1889. 242 p., pl., tabs. Giving economic conditions in Washington Territory at time. TyrellJ. B. Thompson's narrative. Toronto, the Champlain So- ciety, 1916. 582 p., il., maps, charts. An account of the explora- tions of David Thompson in the Northwest for Great Britain. Vancouver, Captain George. Voyage of discovery to the north Pacific Ocean and round the world. London, Robinson, 1798, 3 v., il., maps. New ed. London, 1801. 6 v. Vincent, W. D. Spokane house. Spokane, Cowles Publishing Co., 1930. 50 p., il., maps, charts. Story of early fur trading in Spokane County. Wyeth, Nathaniel. The correspondence and journals of Captain Nathaniel Wyeth, 1831-6. Ed. by F. G. Young, Secretary, Ore- gon Historical Society. Eugene, Oregon, University of Oregon Press, 1899. Maps. Statehood Meany, Edmond S. Governors of Washington. Seattle, University of Washington, 1915. 114 p., il.
Meany, Edmond S. History of the state of Washington. New York, Macmillan, 1924. 325 p., iL, maps. Oliphant, Orin J. A brief outline of the history of Washington. Olympia, O. N. Olson, 1933. 46 p. Sperlin, O. B. and Miles, Charles. Building a State: Washington, 1889-1939. Tacoma, Washington State Historical Society, 1940. 620 p. Government Chandler, George. Civics of the state of Washington. New York, American Book Co., 1915. 418 p., il. Legislative manual of the state of Washington. Olympia, State Print- ing Plant, 1939. Pierce, Frank. Pierce's code: state of Washington. Seattle, Frank Pierce, 1934. 1,981 p. Cyclopedic arrangement of the laws of Washington. SOCIAL AND ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT Agriculture and farm life Boening, Rose M. History of irrigation in the State of Washington. (In Washington Historical Quarterly, Oct. 1918, v. 9; 259; Jan. 1919, v. 10; 21.) Johnson, Ernest Rueben. Farming the logged-over uplands in western Washington. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1924. 36 p., il., map, dgrm. (U.S. Department of Agriculture. Bull- etin No. 1236). Leedy, E. C. Washington. St. Paul, Great Northern Railway Co., 1934- 36 p., il., map, tabs. Statistics and general description of agricultural regions of Washington. Martin, Edward Winslow. History of the grange movement. Na- tional Publishing Co. 1873. Olin, Walter Herbert. American irrigation farming: a systematical treatment of every phase of irrigation farming including its history. Chicago, A. C. McClurg & Co., 1913. 364 p., il., tabs. Industry, Commerce, and Labor Bates, Edwin. Commercial survey of the Pacific Northwest. Wash- ington, Government Printing Office, 356 p., il., tab., dgrms., maps. (U.S. Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce. Domestic Commerce series No. 51). Benson, Henry K. Pulp and paper industry of the Pacific North- west. Seattle, University of Washington, 1929. 89 p., il., dgrms. (University of Washington Engineering Experiment Station. Report No. 1.) Cobb, John Nathan. Pacific cod fisheries. Washington Government Printing Office, 1916. 1n p., pl., tables, maps.(Appendix No. 4 to report of the U. S. Commissioner of Fisheries, 1916). Cobb, John Nathan. Pacific salmon fisheries. 4th ed. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1930. (U.S. Bureau of Fisheries. Document No. 1092).
Fischer, Arthur Holmes. Summary of mining and metalliferous min- eral resources in the state of Washington. Seattle, University of Washington. Hathway, Marion. The migratory worker and family life. Chicago, University of Chicago, 1934. 240 p., il., tables. Includes ma- terial dealing with the migratory workers in Washington. Hopkins, William S. Seasonal unemployment in the state of Wash- ington^...Seatt\e, University of Washington, 1936 (University of Washington publications in the social science, v. 8, No. 3). 161 p., diagrs., tables. Neuberger, Richard. Our promised land. N.Y. Macmillan, 1938. 398 p., map. Oakleaf, Howard B. Lumber and lumbering. Chicago, Commercial Journal Co., 1920. 182 p., il. Parker, Carleton Hubbell. The casual laborer; and other essays. N.Y. Harcourt, 1920. 199 p. Puter, Steven A. and Horace Stevens. Looters of the public domain. Portland, Oregon, Portland Printing House, 1908. 494 p. il., ports. Smith, Walker C. The Everett massacre. Chicago, I.W.W. Pub. Bureau, 1917. 302 p., il. Taylor, Paul Schuster. The Sailors' Union of the Pacific. New York, Ronald Press, 1923. 188 p. Todes, Charlotte. Labor and lumber. New York, International Publishers, 1931. 208 p., plates. United States Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce. American Douglas fir plywood and its uses. Washington, Government Printing Office. 1937. United States Bureau of Mines. Analysis of Washington coals. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1931. 203 p., maps, tables. Washington Geological Survey. The metal mines of Washington. Olympia, 1921. (Bulletin No. 23). Wright E. W. Marine history of the Pacific Northwest Portland, Oregon, Lewis and Dryden Publishing Co., 1895. 494 p., il. Lumber lore Shephard, Esther. Paul Bunyan. Seattle, The McNeil Press, 1924. 235 p. Same text. New York, Harcourt, 1924. Stevens, James. Paul Bunyan. New York, Knopf, 1925. 245 p. il. Transportation Bryan, Enoch A. Orient meets Occident. Pullman, Students Book Corp., 1936. 296 p., il. Advent of the railroads to Pacific Northwest. Coffee, Frank. Forty years on the Pacific. San Francisco, A. M. Robertson, 1920. 375 p., il., maps. Estes, George. The Rawhide Railroad. Canby, Oregon, Clackamas County News Press, 1916. 54 p., il., ports. The story of Dr. D. S. Baker's line between Walla Walla and Wallula.
Lewis, Sol H. "A history of the railroads in Washington." (In Washington Historical Quarterly, July 1912, v. 3; 186-197). O'Neil, Marion. "Maritime activity of the North West Company, 1813-21." (In Washington Historical Quarterly, Oct. 1930, v. 21, No. 4; 243-267). Trans-Pacific trade with China in the early days, Purvis, Neil H. "History of the Lake Washington Ship Canal." (In Washington Historical Quarterly, April 1934, v. 25; 114-127). Quiett, Glenn C. They built the west: an epic of rails and cities. New York, Appleton, 1934. 569 p., il. Education and social institutions Bolton, Frederick E., and Thomas W. Bibb. History of education in Washington. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1935. 448 p., tables. (U.S. Department of Interior. Office of Educa- tion. Bulletin No. 9). Bowden, Angie Burt. Early schools of Washington Territory. Seattle, Lovvman & Hanford Co., 1935. 631 p., il. Washington State Department of Education. State of Washington educational directory, 1935-36. Olympia, State Printing Plant, 1936. 125 p. Religion Creegan, Charles C, and Josephine Goodnow. Great missionaries of the church; Whitman and others. N.Y. Crowell Publishing Co., 1895. 404 p., ports. Drury, Clifford Merrill. Marcus Whitman, M.D., pioneer and martyr. Caldwell, Idaho, the Caxton Printers, 1937. 473 p., il., plates. Eells, Myron. History of Indian missions on Pacific coast. Phila- delphia, American Sunday School Union, 1882. 270 p., il. Pearne, T. H. Sixty-one years of itinerant Christian life in church and state. New York, Easton and Mains, 1898. pp. 166-268. Includes Pearnes' travels and experiences in the Oregon country. Smet, Pierre Jean de. Life, letters and travels of Father Pierre Jean de Smet, S. J., 1801-1873. Collected by Hiram Martin Chit- tenden and Alfred Talbot Richardson. New York, F. P. Harper, 1905. 4 v., ports., maps. Social Organizations Buck, Mildred E. Public welfare in Washington. Olympia, Wash- ington State Planning Council, 1934. 138 p., dgrms., tables. (Research publication No. 1). Cadbury, Olive C, and others. Social work in Seattle; an inventory and appraisal Seattle, University of Washington, 1935. 137 p. Rademaker, John A. Japanese in social organization of the Puget Sound region. (In American Journal of Sociology, Nov. 1934, pp. 338-343).
Newspapers McMurtrie, Douglas C. "Newspapers of Washington, 1852-1890." (In Washington Historical Quarterly, April 1935, v. 26; 129- 143. History, dates of founding, and politics of early newspapers. Meany, Edmond S. "Newspapers of Washington Territory." (In Washington Historical Quarterly, 1922-23. v. 13-14). THE ARTS Literature Hassell, Susan Whitcomb. A hundred and sixty hooks by Washington authors. Everett, Haskell Press, 1916. 40 p. A bibliography of scientific, historical, technical, juvenile, fiction, and travel books. Pollard, Lancaster. "Check list of Washington authors." (In Pacific Northwest Quarterly, January 1940, vol. 31). Powers, Alfred. History of Oregon literature. Portland, Oregon, Metropolitan Press, 1935. 809 p., il. Good study of literature of pioneer and middle periods. Theater Grant, Howard. Story of Washington's early theatres. Seattle, Uni- versity Book Store, 1934. 47 p., il., mop. Lincoln, Fred. "Vaudeville in the Northwest." (In Washington Magazine, Sept. 1906, v. 2: 29-30). Painting and Sculpture Ballard, Adele M. "Seattle artists—who are they?" (In Town Chier, Dec. 1914-17, v. 9-12). Harney, W. D. Art work of Seattle and western Washington. Ra- cine, Wisconsin,, Harney, 1910. no p., ils., 78 pls. A deluxe edition of photogravures. Meany, Edmond S. Art work of the state of Washington. Oshkosh, Wisconsin, Art Photogravure Co., 1900. 122 p. Seattle Art Museum. Annual Report. Seattle, Acme Press, 1936. 30 p. Music Griffin, Eldon. Ralston Club handbook. Seattle, Ralston Club, 1932. Hanford, C. M. Seattle and environs. Seattle, Pioneer History Pub- lishing Co., 1924, il., v. 1; 608-630. Chapter devoted to music in a four-volume history of Seattle. A rchitecture American Institute of Architects, Washington Chapter. Monthly bulletin. Valuable reference works on Washington architecture. April 1925, v. 1, no. 1; Sept. 1933, v. 13, no. 12. Albertson, A. H. "Northern Life Tower: its theory of design." (In Architect, Oct. 1929, y. 13; 29-31; 39-49- Alden, Charles H. "Architectural trends in the State of Washington." (In Architect and engineer, March 1938, v. 132, no. 3; 12-34). Architecture of the Northwest. (In Pacific Builder and Engineer, Sept. 14, 1907, v. 5: 8-15).
Ballard, Adele M. "Pictorial Seattle: a study in homes and churches." (In Town Crier, Dec. 15, 1923, v. 18, no. 50: 17-32). "City Light Building, Seattle." (In Public Service Journal, Aug. 27, 1937, v. 16, no. 8: 6-7). Hadley, H. M. "Seattle Art Museum." (In Architect and engineer, Nov. 1935, v. 115: 10-24). "Henry Art Gallery." (In Architecture, May 1930, v. 61: 289-290). Illustrations (only) of works in gallery at University of Wash- ington. Reamer, R. C. Edmond Meany Hotel at Seattle. (In Architect and Engineer, Feb. 1932, v. 108: 16-23). Seattle Architectural Club. Seattle architectural year book. Seattle, 1910. CITIES Bagley, Clarence B. History of Seattle. Chicago, S. J. Clark Pub- lishing Co., 1916. 3 v., il. Carhart, Edith Beebe. "A history of Bellingham." (In Washington Historical Quarterly, April 1927. v. 18: 156). Hunt, Herbert. Tacoma, its history and its builders. Chicago, S. J. Clark Publishing Co., 1917. 3 v., il. Leighton, George R. "Seattle." (Ind. Five Cities. N. Y. Harper. 1939. il.). Excellent study of Seattle. Lockley, Fred. History of the Columbia River Valley from the Dalles to the sea. Chicago, S. J. Clark Publishing Co., 1928. 3 v. v. I: 317-331- Contains the history of Longview. Sayre, James W. This city of ours. Seattle, 1936. 191 p., il. Wilhelm, Honor L. "The artesian city." (In The Coast, Dec 1917. v. 14, no. 6 401). Story of Pullman, Washington. COUNTIES Bagley, Clarence B. King County. Seattle, S. J. Clark Publishing Co. 1929. 3 v., il. Blankenship, Mrs. George E. Tillicum tales of Thurston County. Olympia, 1914. 395 p. il. Bonney, W. P. Pierce County. Chicago, Pioneer History Publishing Co., 1927. 3 v., il., ports. Brown, William Carlos. Early Okanogan History. Okanogan, Oka- nogan Press. 1912, 27 p., ports. Account of the early settlement at the mouth of the Okanogan River in 1811. Clark, William S. "Pioneer experience in Walla Walla." (In Wash- ington Historical Quarterly, Jan. 1933, v. 24; 9-24). Lingee, Ruby Lusher. Pend Oreille County. Newport, Wash., Miner Printing Co., 1930. 35 p. Durham, N. W. History of the city of Spokane and Spokane County. Chicago, S. J. Clark Publishing Co., 1912. 3 v., il., maps, tables. Farquhar, Frank S. "History and sketches of Yakima County." (In The Washington Historian, July 1901, v. 2; 190-194).
Fuller, George W. The Inland Empire. Spokane, Shaw & Borden Publishing Co., 1928. 4 v., il., maps, ports. History of central Washington. Interstate Publishing Company, 1904. 941 p., il. The history of Klickitat, Yakima, and Kittitas counties. Hull, Lindley M. A history of central Washington: history of the Wenatchee, Entiat, Chelan, and Columbia river valleys. Spokane Shaw & Borden Publishing Co., 1929. 824 p., il. Lyman, Wm. D. History of old Walla Walla County. Chicago, S. J. Clark Publishing Co., 1918. 2 v., il. Lyman, W. D. and others. Skagit and Snohomish counties, (n.p.), Interstate Publishing Co., 1906. 1,117 P-, 'L Roth, Lottie R. History of Whatcom County. Chicago, Pioneer History Publishing Co., 1926. 2 v., il. Steele, Richard F. History of North Washington. Spokane, Western Historical Publishing Co., 1904. 867 p., il. Illustrated history of Stevens, Okanogan, Ferry, and Chelan counties. Steele, Richard F. The story of Lincoln County. Spokane, Hughes & Coates, 1909. 28 p., il. Steele, Richard F. and others. Illustrated history of the Big Bend country. Spokane, Western Historical Publishing Co., 1904. 1,024 p., pl-, ports. The story of Lincoln, Douglas, Adams, and Franklin counties. Whitfield, Wm. History of Snohomish County. Chicago, Pioneer History Publishing Co., 1928. 2 v., il. (Other county histories may be found in State Pamphlet Series). POINTS OF INTEREST Beck, George F. "Quest of the Gingko." (In Washington Historical Quarterly, Jan. 1935. v. 26: 3-9). Grand Coulee Dam. Spokane, Shaw and Borden Publishing Co., 1935. 18 p., il., maps. Kellogg, George A. A history of Whidbey's Island. Oak Harbor, 1934. 108 p., il. Schmoe, F. W. Our greatest mountain: a handbook for Mount Rainier National Park. New York, G. P. Putnam's Sons, 192$. 366 p., il., map.