# Portland, Oregon: Its History and Builders/Volume 1/Chapter 32

tuous enough to please the appetite of an epicure were served. On special oc- casions, preparations, equal to those of Thanksgiving time in the colonial days, were made. The wives of the officers were usually half-caste women; hut were often good mothers and housekeepers. They, with their children, ate in a separate hall.
The village had its regattas, balls and other amusements, rendering it a place of much gaiety, especially about June, when the brigades arrived with the up- river trade, and their crews of jovial, picturesque French voyageurs.
The first school was taught here in the winter of 1832-33 by John Ball, who had come from New England with Wyeth.
Religious services were often held by visiting missionaries or by Dr. Mc- Loughlin, himself. On one of the return voyages, from Canada, two Catholic priests were brought and were furnished with property by the Hudson's Bay Company.
The first steamship to appear on the Pacific coast was the "Beaver" in 1835. It was built on the Thames for the Hudson's Bay Company. The officers of the company in England became dissatisfied with McLoughlin because of the hospi- tality he showed the settlers, and because of his having started a farm and having built a saw mill at Oregon City.
According to Rev. Dr. Atkinson in an annual address before the Pioneer and Historical Society of Oregon, held in Astoria on the 226. day of February, 1876, Dr. McLoughlin answered these charges by saying:
"When any person comes to my door, starving and naked, I will feed and clothe him. I have done my utmost duty to the company, but when you require me to sacrifice my duty to my fellow-man and to my God, I can serve you no longer."
He resigned his office and thenceforward identified himself with the Ameri- can citizens.
His resignation was accepted and James Douglas, his old friend and fellow worker, succeeded him.
After the forty-ninth parallel was agreed as the boundary line between the United States and English territory, Fort Vancouver was upon United States land, but was maintained by the H. B. Co., for a number of years while financial negotiations were being concluded, which were effected on July i, 1863. Then the Hudson's Bay Company, who had maintained headquarters here for about thirty-five years, abandoned it forever, and moved to Victoria, B. C.
Vancouver barracks, the government post now occupying this site and lying wholly within the city Hmits, is considered the most healthful and most beauti- fully located post in the United States. It was established on the site it now occupies by Major Hathaway, and Captain B. H. Hill, with permission of the Hudson's Bay Company, whose rights were still recognized on the 15th of May, 1849, as Columbia barracks. They, together with Company L and M, of the First Regiment of the United States propeller "Massachusetts" came around Cape Horn. They were the first United States troops to arrive on the North Pacific coast. Company M was left at Astoria, while Company L proceeded to Vancouver and camped temporarily in the rear of the Hudson's Bay Company's fort until their quarters were built. It was Major Hathaway's command that erected the first buildings here, which were made entirely of hewn log=.
Colonel Loring, who arrived late in the summer with a battalion of mounted riflemen, erected most of the buildings.
About the 21st of September, 1852, Lieutenant Colonel Bonneville arrived with a detachment of the Fourth Infantry, after a journey of many hardships across the Isthmus of Panama, and a trip by steamer from San Francisco. Soon after his arrival, the government took a reservation of six hundred and forty acres, whose boundaries were located by him as they now stand, and began at a cotton-wood tree near ​the river.
On the 13th of July, 1853, shortly after the division of the Oregon territory, the name was changed from Columbia barracks to Fort Vancouver, which name was again changed on the 5th of April, 1879, to Vancouver barracks, the name it now bears.
With this infantry came Captain U. S. Grant (afterwards President Grant) who was regimental quartermaster, and who was stationed here for about two years, residing near the river.
Sergeant Robert Williams, one of Vancouver's pioneer soldiers, furnishing much of this information, was in this same regiment, and played an honorable part in the wars against hostile Indians. He is still living at Vancouver at an ad- vanced age.
Troops stationed at Vancouver took part in the various Indian wars including those against the Yakima and Nez Perces Indians.
It is alleged that it was by the aid of an Indian princess, Winnemucca, that the Nez Perces war was brought to so early a close. Her father. Chief Winne- mucca, had always befriended the whites and at this time the hostile Indians were trying to force him to join them. Then it was that Winnemucca broke through the hostile lines and fled for help to the approaching army under General O. O. Howard.
She was brought back to Vancouver barracks, by Howard, and became a teacher of the children of the Indian prisoners. She had been educated by Catholic sisters of San Diego. She captured the heart of a sergeant at the fort whom she married and upon his discharge they left the fort.
Some years while P. Hough was principal of the Vancouver Columbian school, a tree was planted and named in her honor on the school grounds. Many of the early pioneers remembered seeing this Indian maiden.
Vancouver barracks has now become a very important fort and is now the headquarters of the department of the Columbia and Alaska. Many different regiments have been stationed here and it served as a recruiting ground during the Spanish-American war. Generals Otis, Anderson and Funston and others prominent in the Spanish-American war have commanded at this post.
But let us return to the early settlement of Vancouver and vicinity.
After an overland path had been made from the east, many settlers began to come into the Oregon country. Some found their way to Vancouver, but as we have said were always discouraged by the Hudson's Bay Company from settling north of the Columbia river. However, a few of the braver ones, in spite of their threats, were obstinate.
One of the earliest settlers was Henry Williamson, who staked out a claim on the present site of Vancouver, where he built a log cabin and had a part of his claim laid out in town lots by Surveyor F. W. Crawford, father of E. G. and W. P. Crawford, two of Vancouver's prominent business men.
Not long after this in 1845, came Amos M. Short and his heroic wife, Esther. Although the Hudson's Bay Company showed a great hostility to them and refused to furnish them supplies, they nevertheless, laid out their claim be- ginning at a certain balm of Gilead tree and erected their log house and built fences. The English officers did everything possible to harass these pioneers, even to destroying their fences and at one time while William Short was away, they placed Mrs. Short and the children in a batteau with one oar and set them adrift on the Columbia. It was only with the greatest effort that she was able to save herself and her children.
While William Short was absent, at another time, at Oregon City, awaiting trial before the Oregon provisional government, for having shot an officer, an interesting little incident happened which is told by Glenn W. Ranch, a son of one of Vancouver's early pioneers in his "Pictures of Northwest History."
"A small squad of men was sent under Fi Ceatte, an adventurous Courier- de-bois who had been in the employ of the company for many years, with in-
(Improve this image)
FIRST CATHOLIC CHURCH BUILDING ERECTED IN OLD OREGON AT VANCOUVER ​
sawi this little army approaching her castle, she was very indignant. She felt she had suffered from British cruelty long enough and was determined not to bear this tyranny longer. So just as Fi Ceatte put his hands upon the topmost rail and began to wrench it from its place, by a deft swing of her arm, she struck him with the palm of her hand a stinging blow across the cheek. Before he realized it, the astonished trader was lying on the greensward at his conqueror's feet."
He then retreated to the fort, where he recounted the incident to Governor Peter Ogden. The governor had a hearty laugh at Fi Ceatte's expense, and then remarked :
'T guess we had better give it up ; we can never hope to win against such women as that."
Fi Ceatte resided at Vancouver for many years, and in 1902 when the story was written, was still there at the age of eighty-five years.
It has been suggested that a monument be placed in the city park which was donated to the city by Esther Short, as a suitable memorial to this brave-hearted woman.
Memorials are being placed in all parts of the northwest commemorating some brave deed of our pioneer men, but — "why should men do all the deeds upon which the heart of a patriot feeds?"
One of the first two postoffices, north of the Columbia river, was established in 1850 and called Vancouver, in Vancouver County, as all the territory north of the Columbia was then called. After Clarke . County was organized, it was changed to Vancouver, Clarke County. This name, however, was soon changed to Columbia City, Clarke County, and- remained that until 1855, when the name was changed permanently to Vancouver, Clarke County.
Moses Kellogg was appointed first -postmaster and was succeeded by R. H. Lansdale.
The age-worn records in the auditor's office at Vancouver, show that in 1850 at the July session of the probate court, R. Lansdale, clerk of probate, in Clarke County, Oregon territory, was appointed county agent to take possession of the land claim of the company for the purpose of a county seat, and to lay out a certain portion into town lots for the use of the county. He, therefore, proceeded to lay out said portion of land into town lots, to which was given the name of Columbia City.
The description of the plat begins thus :
"Beginning at a balm of Gilead tree, marked A. M. S. on north bank of Co- lumbia, river, etc."
This old tree which stood at the foot of Main street has become famous as the "Old Witness Tree." It was the starting point from which many surveys were made, and from beneath its branches have embarked Indians, Hudson's bay trappers and explorers. It has been said that it was here that Lewis and Clark moored their canoes in 1905. This may have been so, as history shows that they stopped at a place on their return voyage near where Vancouver is.
During the high water in the summer of 1909, this old tree, was undermined, and toppled over into the Columbia river.
Realizing the predicament the old tree was in, the high school pupils started a fund for building a breakwater in front of it to protect it, but its danger was realized too late.
When the Fourth Infantry arrived here in 1852, there was one store, and lots sold for ($25.00) twenty-five dollars per block.
During the Yakima uprising in 1855, a company of volunteers was organized at Vancouver under Captain William Strong to aid the regulars. It was also during this time that an interesting little episode took place near Vancouver
The friendly Klickitats on the Lewis river, who it was feared would join the hostiles, were brought to the fort where they could be watched. As the regulars were away fighting, the garrison was left in charge of the voluntee ​r force. As
everything seemed peaceful, they also were preparing to leave for the Yakima country, when it was discovered the Indians had quietly taken up their tents and left.
The volunteers immediately went in hot pursuit and overtook them at a place about ten miles from Vancouver, thereafter called "Battle Ground." A council was held and the Indians promised to return. On the way back, the body of Chief Cumtux was found. The cause of his death is not known, but the settlers were afraid that this would arouse the Indians. However, they promised to return peacefully, if allowed a few days to bemoan their chief.
As the anxious and fear-stricken women of Vancouver watched their hus- bands return without the Indians, they were disgusted, and called it "Squaw- back-down." Gathering together, hoods, aprons, and other feminine wearing ap- parel, they hastened out to meet them and presented them with these things. While they stood conversing a scout arrived saying the Indians had started back. The humiliation of the women can easily be imagined.
In 1869 the Columbia City plan was abandoned, and the Catholics laid claim to this Vancouver tract, basing their claims on the congressional donation law of 1848, which gave to all missionary societies then in the Oregon territory, engaged in missionary work, six hundred and forty acres of land. They based their claim upon occupancy and missionary work up to and continuously after the act of 1848, and thereupon laid out the site of Vancouver as it stood for years.
(Information in regard to different city claims was received from Mr. Pat- rick Hough, a resident since 1883, and a teacher in Vancouver, continuously since that time until 1908.)
When the military post became permanent, the authorities disputed the bishop's claim on two points — first : that the bishop and his fellow missionaries had been employees of the Hudson's Bay Company, whose title was extinguished by treaty of 1848; second: that the military occupancy of 1849, antedated Bishop Blanchet's record of claim under the act of 1848.
These questions were argued before the courts and in the land office for many years, being appealed from one court to another. In the meantime, the United States erected permanent structures, and the general land office at Washington offered the bishop thirty thousand dollars to vacate ; but congress failed to make the appropriation.
In 1886, it was finally decided by the supreme court of United States that the mission claim was not valid. As the church authorities had spent many thou- sand dollars defending the claim, congress, about eight years ago at the sugges- tion of Representative Jones, (now Senator Jones), appropriated twenty-five thousand dollars to reimburse the church for money spent on the claim. Thus ended the long-drawn out controversy and claim of the Catholic church to the Vancouver townsite.
And thus it came to pass, that when the territory of Washington was or- ganized in 1853, there were two parties, the bishop and Amos Short, whose claims overlapped some distance west of Main street, probably to Esther avenue. Therefore, when people bought property on this lap, they received deeds from both parties, while those purchasing east of the lap from the bishop only, and west of the lap took claim from Short only.
This state of clouded titles continued until i872,when congress authorized President Grant to issue a patent to Abel G. Trip, the mayor of Vancouver, for the present city site. So in addition to previous titles, all property owners re- ceived new deeds based on the president's patent.
This trouble, together with the bar at the mouth of the Willamette river, which prohibited deep sea vessels entering its harbor, were two causes that re- tarded Vancouver's growth while Portland was forging ahead.
The first school in Vancouver was conducted by W. R. Hathaway, about 1853, in a building erected by the Hudson's Bay Company on the United States Military reservation. A school was later held in the rear of the old C ​atholic
church on Fifth street, and which was destroyed by fire during the big Van- couver fire, when practically the whole heart of Vancouver was wiped out of existence. This school was conducted in the latter part of the fifties by Father Brouillet, who represented the mission at Washington, D. C, for so many years.
The next school, the first public school, was conducted by S. B. Curtin, one of the old pioneer teachers in the old Episcopal church at the corner of Sixth and Reserve streets, which building is now used as a residence. This was about the year i860.
The first school built by the district was the building now occupied by the fire department between Seventh and Eighth on Washington street.
Later, there was a school near the big mill and then old Central was built. This building is still used.
Vancouver now boasts four good schools with another under construction, besides the two state institutions for defective youth, and a new Carnegie li- brary opened the first of January, 1910.
In the last few years, Vancouver has taken a start which will soon advance her to the position of one of the largest and most prosperous cities in the state of Washington.
In January, 1909, was completed across the Columbia, the largest double track steel bridge in the world ; and thus bringing regular train service from all parts of the country. This bridge is now used by the Great Northern, Northern Pacific and Harriman lines, giving Vancouver a regular train service of twenty- two trains daily.
Electric car service connects Vancouver and outlying districts in the country.
Congress has made appropriations through eflForts of our congressmen, and efforts of energetic citizens for dredging the mouth of the Willamette, thus al- lowing deep-draught sea vessels to enter.
Last year the city limits were extended, which together with the influx of newcomers, have increased the population from about five thousand, five or six years ago, to nearly ten thousand at present.
Property has doubled in value and many fine tracts have been platted into town lots.
Last fall, one of Vancouver's prominent lawyers, W. W. McCredie, was elected as United States congressman, to succeed F. W. Cushman, deceased.
The city of Vancouver was incorporated by act of the territorial legislature of January 23, 1857. The act appointed the following officers to hold office until election of their successors, which election was to be held on the first Monday in November, 1857, to-wit:
Sumner Barker, Joseph Brant, Moses E. Goodwin, John F. Smith, Gay Hay- den, Samuel Marsh, and Henry C. Morse, councilmen; Patrick Ahern, recorder; B. L. Gardner, marshal ; N. Bateman, assessor ; Paul E. Eubank, collector ; and Henry S. Burlingame, treasurer. The council were to elect one of their num- ber mayor until the election.
At the election in November of that year, Levi Farnsworth, was chosen mayor, and it is he who signed the first ordinance, which was passed on March 16, 1858, according to the records. This was an ordinance to forbid business on the Sabbath day.
As to claims, the donation land claim of Amos M. and Esther Short, occupied that part of the present city lying west of Main and south of 26th streets. The city park and public levee were given to the city by Esther Short, she having donated the east half of the claim, and her husband the west half.
The most interesting relic in old Vancouver is an apple tree now 85 years old, and still yearly bearing good fruit, which was produced from the seed of an apple from a dinner table in London, England, at a dinner party given to an officer about to sail for the Columbia river in 1825. The apple seeds being de- 'posited in the vest pocket of the officer by a young lady guest at the table, and ​
planted at Fort Vancouver when the gentleman reached his post in October of that year.
An officer in the service of the United States and for many years commander of the Vancouver post, gives a further account of the land troubles and other matters at Vancouver as follows :
"In the days of old when the Hudson's Bay barons held their sway at Fort Vancouver, a church of England chaplain, Rev. Beaver, accused the chief factor, of King David's transgression. Thereupon the chief smote the bold prophet and discharged him from the company's service. This incident was unimportant in it- self, yet had important consequences, from the fact that Catholic priests were given the position of the over zealous chaplain. For soon after this change the regents of the company in London began to show a disapproval of the liberal policy of the chief factor, who in time severed his connection with the company to become a resident of Oregon and a citizen of the United States.
Up to May, 1849, the portentious banner of Britain waved over the Hud- son bay establishments on the north bank of Columbia; but at that time a gar- rison of United States soldiers displaced the Hudson bay officials at Fort Van- couver, who then moved their headquarters to Victoria on Vancouver island.
But the Catholic chaplain remained and claimed the Hudson bay reservation at Vancouver, under a provision of the enabling act of Oregon, which assured a statutory title for 640 acres of land to any religious denomination having a mis- sion in the Indian country. Under color of this claim, the military officers com- manding the post established at Vancouver, through good nature or indifference allowed the representatives of the Catholic church to hold joint possession with them on the government reservation from 1849 to 1888. At that time Gen. Thos. M. Anderson, then colonel of the Fourteenth Infantry became commander of the post. His first act was to eject the Catholic claimants. This compelled the church to bring suit. The title of the action was : The Roman Catholic bishop of Nesqually, vs. John Gibbon, Department Commander, Thomas M. Anderson, commandant of the post.
The government defended its claims on the ground that the Recolet fathers designated by Dr. McLoughlin were not missionaries, but the paid servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, at a stipend of iioo a year, and the further claim that if missionaries, the padres were sent by the bishop of Quebec, a subject of Great Britain which claimed the whole of the Oregon country to the California line. It was upon these contentions that the supreme court of the United States finally decided against the church, and in favor of the military.
The city of Vancouver is the trading center and capital of Clarke County, which has an area of 646 square miles of very rich and productive soil.
Immense crops of hay, oats, potatoes and all kinds of garden vegetables are produced. Upon the upland all varieties of soil are to be found. A wide range of crops is grown with success, fruit-raising, especially yielding large returns. Among the fruits the most important is the prune. The growing, drying and packing of the Italian prunes for the eastern market is an important industry. From 200 to 300 carloads of the dried product are shipped out of the county every year.
Originally, almost the entire county was covered with a dense forest of red and yellow fir, cedar and hemlock, and the work of marketing this great supply of timber and of transforming the land into cultivated farms is going on at a rapid rate. Over 260,000,000 feet of lumber, railroad ties and logs were produced dur- ing the last year.
The city itself possesses the most beautiful site for a great city that can be found. Without the high hills which fence in the west of the city of Portland the plateau on which Vancouver is located rises gently from its harbor on the broad Columbia, and rolls back for twenty miles to the foothills of the Cascade
(Improve this image)
UPPER VIEW— STREET SCENE IN VANCOUVER IN 191] LOWER VIEW— GREAT STEEL BRIDGE ACROSS THE COLUMBIA RIVER AT VANCOUVER ​
VANCOUVER
Oregon, are in plain sight from all parts of the city; while in clear weather a great part of the city of Portland is in plain view, stretching up and down the Willamette and across the peninsula to the front door of Vancouver.
The city has fine schools, one college, a seminary for girls, a great hospital, several banks, fine hotels, great lumber mills, eight churches, the Washington State School for Deaf, Dumb and Blind, a street railway system, and the United States army barracks. Within the last two years the largest railroad bridge in the United States has been erected across the Columbia river at this point; and the city is now a railroad center with direct connections to Oregon and all points south to San Francisco; also to Tacoma, Seattle, and all points north to British Columbia ; also to Spokane, and all points east to the Atlantic states ; while an- other road is in course of rapid construction which will open all the great central Oregon region to the trade and business aspirations of Vancouver business men. No city on the Pacific coast is better situated to command trade and commerce than Vancouver. Four miles of dredging to deepen the ship channel to the mouth of the Willamette river will permit the largest ships that enter the Co- lumbia to come up to Vancouver and dock and receive cargo. Its history is most interesting ; its climate is that of perfect health ; its resources for wealth and prosperity are incalculable ; and the opportunities it offers for comfortable homes, profitable business and continued prosperity, are not equaled by any other point in the state.
The remarkable history of its past seems to guaranty great prosperity in the future. Vancouver has been the birthplace and home of great works. Dr. John McLoughlin founded Vancouver, and Vancouver became the homing port and center of attraction for the sea rovers, forest rangers and pioneer immigrants of all the great northwest. It founded civilization in an empire of the greatest possibilities, and became the unwilling nursing mother of the first American gov- ernment on the Pacific coast. And when human activities and commercial pos- sibilities reached the point that demanded the combination of capital to open the country to trade and commerce, Vancouver became the home for the first great transportation company of the northwest. Fifty years ago the Oregon Steam Navigation Company was incorporated in the then little village of Vancouver. The Oregon Steam Navigation Company opened the Columbia and eastern Ore- gon to the trade of the world, and became the foundation and father of the Ore- gon Railroad & Navigation Company that built 2,000 miles of railway in Oregon and Washington. And a half century later in the same village, now grown to be a city, the Oregon Trunk Railway Company is incorporated to open central Oregon to all the benefits of railroad transportation and trade and commerce with all the world. Let us hope and prophesy that the "Oregon Trunk" will accomplish as great results for Vancouver and Oregon as did the pioneer Navi-
CHAPTER XXXIII.
In 1806 Lewis and Clark heard of "Hyas Tyee Tumwater," the Great Falls, and of the land where the "Clackamos" dwelt. In 1812 Astor's men had some trouble with the Willamette Indians. In 1816 Alexander Ross says the Indians at "Wallamitte Falls" demanded tribute, and would not permit hunting on their lands. Lining the river banks on both sides, they fired a shower of arrows, the men fired back and killed an Indian, then made the best of their way back to Fort George (Astoria). Then twenty-five men and a clerk were sent to pacify the natives, had another quarrel, and "the whole party owed its safety to the darkness of the night." By the advice of Peter Skeen Ogden, an experienced clerk of the northwest school, negotiations were now begun in earnest. Forty-five armed men in three boats left Fort George in charge of Ross himself, and reached the falls on the third day. Says Ross, "The Indians had assembled to resist any attempt to ascend the Wallamitte. We found them encamped on the west or left bank. We took up our position with two field pieces to guard our camp on the east, or right hand side, which is low, rocky and somewhat uneven. . . . Early the next morning we set the negotiations on foot and made several attempts, but in vain, to bring the Indians to a parley. I went to their camp, offered to smoke and held out the hand of friendship, but to no purpose. They refused holding any communication with us, but continued to sing their war songs and danced their war dance.
"We, however, were not discouraged by any demonstrations on their part. We quietly waited to see what time would bring about. The first day passed without affecting anything, and so did the second. Friendly offers were held out to them, but as constantly rejected. On the third day, however, the chief and warriors crossed over to our side, and stood in a group at some distance from our camp. I knew what was meant by this, so I took a flag in my hand, and went alone to meet them. Just as I had reached the party the whole Indian camp burst into a loud and clamorous scene of mourning. That moment the chiefs and warriors forming a ring, squatted down and concealing their faces with their garments remained silent and motionless for about the space of half an hour. During all this time I had to stand patiently and wait the result. Not a word was uttered on either side, but as soon as the lamentations ceased, the great men, uncovering their faces, stood upon their feet. I then offered the pipe of peace, according to Indian custom; but a significant shake of the head from the principal chief was my only reply.
After long negotiations related by Ross, the conditions of a rude treaty were "that the Wallamitte should remain open; that the whites should have at all times free ingress and egress to that quarter unmolested. . . . The business being ended, the chief as a token of general consent, scraped a little dust together, and with his hand throwing it in the air, uttered at the same time the expressive word "hilow," it is done. This was no sooner over than the chief man presented us with a slave as a token of his good will, signifying by the act that if the Indians did not keep their promise, we might treat them all as slaves. The slave being returned again to the chief, we prepared to leave the Indians, paid our offering for the dead, shook hands with the living, satisfied the chiefs, and pushed down the current.
"On reaching Fort George, the articles of the treaty were read over and drew from Mr. Keith a smile of approbation that was no small credit to me, for he is a very cautious man and not lavish of his praise. 'Your success,' said he, 'removes my anxiety, and is calculated not only to restore peace in the Wallamitte, but throughout the whole of the neighboring tribes.'"
In 1829, Dr. McLoughlin, in charge of the Hudson's Bay Company of fur traders, built a log storehouse at the falls for the convenience of his men passing up and down the river in canoes, but the Indians tore it down.
In 1834 the Methodist missionaries passed the falls and went on up into the valley and established a mission near the present city of Salem.
November 24, 1835, Dr. Samuel Parker, of Ithaca, N. Y., arrived at the falls of the Willamette at 1 o'clock in the afternoon and hired eight Indians to carry the canoe by the falls, the distance of half a mile. He says, 'It was a pleasant day, and the rising mist formed in the rays of the sun a beautiful bow; and the grass about the falls, irrigated by the descending mist, was in fresh green. The opportunities here for water power are equal to any that can be named. There cannot be a better situation for a factory village than on the east side of the river, a dry, widespread level extends some distance, and the shores form natural wharves for shipping. The whole country around, particularly the east side, is pleasant and fertile, and can the period be far distant when there will be here a busy population? I could hardly persuade myself that this river had for many thousand years, poured its waters constantly down these falls without having facilitated the labor of man. Absorbed in these contemplations, I took out my watch to see if it was not the hour for the ringing of the bells. It was 2 o'clock and all was still, except the roaring of the falling water. I called to remembrance, that in the year 1809 I stood by the falls of the Genessee river and all was still except the roar of the cataract. But it is not so now, for Rochester stands where I then stood."
Mr. Parker went on up the river to visit the Methodist mission, and on Monday at 3 o'clock in the afternoon of November 30th, he arrived again at the falls on his way down the river and says, "Here I engaged two Indians belonging to a small village, who have a permanent residence a little below the falls. Wanaxka, the chief, came up to the falls where I was about to camp alone for the night and invited me to share his hospitality at his house. I hesitated what to do, not that I would undervalue his kindness, but feared such annoyances as ​might prevent my rest. On the other hand, there was every appearance of a cold, heavy storm, very little wood near which I could procure for a fire with only my hatchet, and I should be alone, exposed to ravenous wild beasts—the latter consideration, however, I scarcely regarded. But believing it would please the chief should I accept his invitation, I went with him to his dwelling, which was a long, permanent building on the west side of the river, up an elevation of one hundred feet, and near which were several other buildings of nearly the same dimensions. Besides the family of the chief, there were two other families in the same building, in sections about twenty feet apart, separated from each other by mats hung up for partitions. Their houses are built of logs split into thick plank. These Indians do not sink any part of their buildings below the surface of the earth, as some of the Indians do about and below the Cascades. The walls of the chief's house were about seven feet high, the roofs are more steeply elevated than what is common in the United States, made of the same materials with the walls, only the planks are of less thickness. They have only one door to the house, and this is in the center of the front side. They have no chimney to carry off the smoke, but a hole is left open above the fireplace, which is in the center of each family's apartment. This answers very well in calm weather, but when there is much wind, the whole building becomes a smokehouse. The fireplace of the chief's apartment was sunk a foot below the surface of the earth, eight feet square, secured by a frame around, and mats spread upon the floor for the family to sit upon. Their dormitories are on the sides of the apartment, raised four feet above the floor, with movable ladders for ascent; and under them they stow away their dried fish, roots, berries and other effects. There was not an excess of neatness within, and still less without.
"These Indians were also kind. They gave me most of one side of the fireplace, spread down clean, new mats, replenished their fire, and were ready to perform any service I should wish. I let them fill and boil my teakettle, after which I spread out my stores so bountifully provided by Dr. McLoughlin, and performed my own cooking. During the evening, the chief manifested a disposition to be sociable, but we had but a very little language common to us both besides the language of signs. The next thing when the hour of rest arrived, was to fortify myself against a numerous and insidious enemy. I first spread down the cloth of my tent, then my blankets, and wrapped myself up as securely as I could, and should have slept comfortably had I not too fully realized my apprehensions.
"As soon as daylight appeared, on December 1st, I left the hospitable habitation of Wanaxka, and with my two Indians, proceeded down the Willamette about sixteen miles before we landed for breakfast." Sometime after the destruction of the first building, Dr. McLoughlin erected a second storehouse at the falls, protected this time by a stockade of hewed logs, with a gate and padlock. At this place wheat was stored and Indian goods that were used in buying skins and salmon. In the edge of the forest this small stockade stood, about where the Oregon City woolen mill is now, and later it developed into a Hudson's Bay store for the convenience of incoming settlers. Dr. McLoughlin started to blast a race for a mill, but the company opposing, the mill was built on the Columbia above Vancouver, and the squared timbers he had prepared were left on the ground at the falls.
In May, 1840, the bark Lausanne brought into the Columbia a large company of Methodist missionaries. While the Lausanne was unloading by means of canoes, the brig Maryland from Newburyport, Capt. John H. Couch, passed them and entered the Willamette river, ascending on the high water of June to the falls, but being warned that with the recession of the water he would be left stranded, the captain hastily fell down to about where the city of Portland now stands. On the same high water, with a canoeload of goods, Rev. Alvin F. Waller and wife, missionaries of the ship Lausanne, went on up to the falls, ​where with the squared timbers borrowed of Dr. McLoughlin, he built a dwelling house only a few rods from the cataract, the first home in Oregon City.
In June, 1841, Commodore Wilkes of the United States Exploring Expedition, entered the Willamette. He says, "We reached the falls about noon, where we found the missionary station under charge of Rev. Mr. Waller. The Hudson's Bay Company have a trading post there and are packing fish which the Indians catch in great quantities.
"There was a petty dispute between Mr. Waller and the company, and he complained of them. It seems the company refused to buy any beaver skins except from the hunters and trappers, and he accuses them of monopoly in consequence.
"The company, on the other hand, says they have no idea of selling goods out of their own stores, for the purpose of enabling others to enter into competition with them, and that they will spare no expense to keep the trade as long as they can, in their own hands.
"Mr. Waller and his wife gave us a kind welcome and insisted on our taking dinner with them. As they have no servants Mrs. Waller prepared the dinner, while Mr. Waller took care of the outdoor business. Though the house was built of rough materials, it was very evident that neatness and order prevailed. Her management of the home-made cooking stove which stood in the room, claimed my admiration. At the same time she made herself quite agreeable, and although she had many, very many things to contend with, appeared quite satisfied with her lot and condition.
"After we had partaken of our dinner, consisting of salmon and tea, with bread and butter, Mr. Waller took us to see the falls. On our way thither, he pointed out a log house that had been built by the agent of Mr. Slacum, in order to secure the right of site or mill privilege. The Hudson's Bay Company have gone to considerable expense in blasting the rock for a mill-race for the same purpose, but from appearances, this work has remained untouched for several years. ... A Mr. Moore, from the western states, whom I saw on the Willamette, informed me that he had taken possession of the west side of the falls, under a purchase from an old Indian chief.
"At the time of our visit to the falls, the salmon fishery was at its height, and was to us a novel as well as amusing scene. ... I never saw so many fish collected together before; and the Indians are constantly employed in taking them. They rig out two stout poles, long enough to project over the foaming cauldron, and secure their large ends to the rocks. On the outer end they make a platform for the fisherman to stand on, who is perched on it with a pole thirty feet long in hand, to which the net is fastened by a hoop four feet in diameter. . . . They throw it into the foam and it being then quickly carried down, the fish running in a contrary direction are caught. Sometimes twenty-five large fish are taken by a single person in an hour. . . . The number of Indians at the falls during the season is about seventy . . . others visit in canoes, raising the number up to not far from one hundred."
Wilkes mentions an Indian village "swarming with fleas" on the west side.
This Mr. Robert Moore mentioned by Wilkes arrived in Oregon in 1840, and by purchase from old Chief Wanaxka, claimed a section of land extending two miles up and down the river, including the whole west frontage of the falls from the beginning up to the Tualatin river, and half a mile back. Perched on the steep hillside directly overlooking the cataract he had built a log cabin, appropriately named the "Robin's Nest."
Across the river, where his trading house stood, Dr. McLoughlin originally claimed from the Abernethy creek to the head of the falls, approximately two miles up and down the river, and a mile back, which he named Oregon City, and in 1841 donated a block for a Catholic church. After measurement, part of McLoughlin's claim was abandoned to Archibald McKinlay of the Hudson's Bay Company, and Moore, as his wife never came to Oregon, subsequently ​released half of his extensive holdings. Directly embraced by the cataract, between the two, an island lay, green and heavily timbered, around which swept and foamed the misty waters.
In 1841 the Island Milling Company was formed, to build saw and grist mills, and Felix Hathaway, in the employ of the mission, began to build a house on this island at the falls. Dr. McLoughlin remonstrated, and Hathaway desisted. About this time George Abernethy opened a mission store, bought wheat of the settlers, and salmon of the Indians, which he traded to Honolulu for sugar, molasses and other commodities. He also had a boat to transport passengers from the Clackamas rapids to the falls. "We began as an Indian mission; we ended as an American colony," said Abernethy.
In the autumn of 1842 an overland emigration of 137 people arrived and began to build houses for shelter during the winter. Medorum Crawford (whose daughter, Mrs. H. C. Stevens, still resides in Oregon City), says in his journal of 1842, "On the fifth day of October, our little party, tired, ragged and hungry, arrived at the falls, now Oregon City, where we found the first habitations west of the Cascade mountains. Here several members of the Methodist mission were located, and a sawmill was being erected on the island. Our gratification on arriving safely after so long and perilous a journey was shared by these hospitable people, each of whom seemed anxious to give us hearty welcome and render us every assistance in their power."
Dr. McLoughlin engaged Sidney W. Moss to lay out the town with a pocket compass he had brought across the plains. For lack of newspapers and other entertainment a lyceum and debating society was organized to while away the winter evenings, and one of the questions was, "Resolved, that it is expedient for the settlers of the Pacific coast to form an independent government." It was well known that Dr. McLoughlin favored an independent Pacific republic. "We are too far away, for either England or the United States to rule us," he said. After a warm discussion, the question carried by a great majority. George Abernethy leaped to his feet. "We are drifting from the union. I offer for the next debate, 'Resolved, that if the United States extends its jurisdiction over this country within the next four years, it will not be expedient to form an independent government.'" Everybody went and patriotism carried all before it—everybody voted for the union.
On account of this large increase of people, in December, 1842, Mr. Waller began to build a Methodist church, after securing subscriptions to the amount of $847 from the people, and a block of land from Dr. McLoughlin. Cornelius Rogers was engaged to build the church, but as he was arriving from above to undertake the work, the canoe containing himself and bride, and her little sister and another passenger, and two Indians, was caught in a current of the high water of February and swept over the falls. A wild cry was heard as the canoe made the frightful plunge into the depths below, and all were lost. This catastrophe cast a gloom over the little settlement, and in March many moved on to California, where they became prominent pioneers and founders of cities.
In May, 1843, the ship Fama arrived from Honolulu with supplies for the missions. Among the passengers were Peter H. Hatch, wife and child, who had been missionaries in the Sandwich Islands, Francis W. Pettygrove and family, with a stock of goods, and Philip Foster and family, who all settled at or near Oregon City. Mr. Pettygrove opened a store, and later became one of the founders of Portland. Both Mr. Hatch and Philip Foster later settled on the Mt. Hood road where their houses became the first civilized stopping places for hundreds of emigrants.
In the meantime, in March, 1843, a petition was drawn up and signed by sixty-five leading citizens against Dr. McLoughlin, charging many deeds of oppression and wrong to the settlers; that the doctor as head of the Hudson's Bay Company had no right to an American claim; that he could build mills and saw lumber with cheaper labor and undersell the settlers; that he refused to allow the company's vessels to bring goods from the Sandwich Islands for settlers; that he refused to sell cattle to Americans, and other things, all of which were answered serially by the doctor who was simply following out his line of duty as head of the company. It was always a fixed principle of the Hudson's Bay Company to undersell anybody who came in their way, and never on any account to permit the use of their vessels by competitors. The settlers did not recognize themselves as competitors, but the doctor did so recognize all merchants and manufacturers who interfered with the profits of the Hudson's Bay fur traders.
As Indians for untold ages had fought over the falls, so now the whites were battling for this point of vantage. The Americans said that Dr. McLoughlin had taken claims at other strategic points and built trading houses for the Hudson's Bay Company. They did not understand joint occupancy to mean a monopoly of trading privileges among the settlers. Judging by the laws of their own country, the Americans did not consider Dr. McLoughlin personally a settler when he continued to remain at Fort Vancouver and did not himself occupy his land claim. They could not imagine the head of the Hudson's Bay Company as a private citizen. That he had chosen a claim at the falls and began improvements there meant simply that he was holding it for the company. As a chief factor of the company he necessarily represented the company. They, as American citizens, were working for American interests. He is an Englishman, was believed to be working for English interests. The conflict was inevitable.
Dr. McLoughlin was between two parties and distrusted by both. As an Englishman, Americans questioned his motives. As a benefactor of Americans, the English fur company compelled his resignation and dropped him from their service. Even after he left the company in 1845 and moved to his Oregon City land claim, those who had lived there first could not forget, and never did forget, that they had been bona fide settlers several years before his arrival. This, then, was the politics of 1843 and succeeding years.
None too soon was the provisional government established, for as early as August, 1843, boats of every description, canoes, batteaux and rafts came paddling up the Willamette with the new overland emigration, a thousand people with families and herds of cattle. The town could not shelter them all, camps were set up along the river bank, and Mr. Moss went up and down ringing a hand-bell calling the people to dinner where he had set up a half-faced barracks to feed the people. This was the beginning of Moss's hotel and of his fortune. Dr. McLoughlin, who had helped many at Vancouver, came up to Oregon City in his anxiety and assisted them in every way in his power. He also now had a Hudson's Bay Company store there and trusted them for goods when they could not pay, as also did Abernethy and Pettygrove. Every door was open, beds were laid on every floor, and in workshops and in the half