# The Voyage of Italy/Chapter 4

My second Voyage.
My second Voyage was by the way of France, where I started from Paris, and made towards Lyons; in the way I took notice of these places.
Yssone.Yssone a neat house belonging then to Monsieur Essolin. The house is so pretty, that I think it worth the Travelers seeing, and my describing. It stands in the shade of a thick grove of Trees, and is wholly built and furnished al Italiana. Under the side of the house runns a little Brook, which being received into a Bason of Free-stone, just as long as the house, and made like a ship, (that is, sharp at both ends and wide in the middle) it is cloven, and divided into two, by the sharp end of this ship, and conveighed in close channels of free-stone, on both sides of the ship or bason, into which it empties it self by several tunnels, or pipes: so that all this water ​spouting into the open ship on both sides, by four and twenty tunnels, makes under the windowes of the house such a perpetual purling of water, (like many fountaines) that the gentle nose is able to make the most jealous man sleep profoundly. At the other end of the house this water issueth out of the other end of the said ship, and is courteously intreated by several hidden pipes of lead, to walk into the house, in stead of running by so fast: Which it doth, and is presently led into the Cellars, and Buttery, and not onely into these, but also into the Kitchin, stables, chambers, and bathing room, all which it furnisheth with water either for necessity or pleasure. Then being led into the curious garden, its met there by a world of little open channells of free-stone, built like knots of flowers; all which it fills brimfull, and makes even Flowers of water. Then running up and down here and there among the fragrant delights of this garden, as if it had forgotten its ​errand to the Sea, it seems to be so taken with those sweet beds of flowers, and so desirous of resting upon them, after so many miles running, that it offers to turn it self into any posture, rather then be turned out of this sweet place.
Fountainbelleau.From Yssonne I came to Fontainbelleau, where I saw that Kingly house, the Nonsuch of France. It stands in the midst of a great Forrest full of Royal Game, and the place of delight of Henry the Fourth, The house is capable of lodging four Kings with their several Courts. The court of the Cheval BlancThe Court of the Cheval Blanc is a noble square of Buildings: but the lowness of the Buildings and Lodgings shews, they are for the Lower Sort of people, and the Servant-Lodgings to the Royal Appartiments. The Oval Court.The Oval Court is a good old Building. The Kings and Queens Lodgings with their Cabinets groan under their rich guilt roofs. The Gallery of staggs heads.The Gallery of Staggs heads is a stately room, then which nothing can be more Cavalierly furnished; excpt such an other gallery hung with Turkish standards won in ​The Galleries of Romances.warre. The other long Galleries of Romances and Fables, painted by Simon Voyet and others, are much esteemed: the onely pity is, that such true painting should not have been employed upon true Histories.
The Salel of the Conference. See the Publick Acts of this Conference printed an. 1601.The Salle of the Conference, is a stately Roome, where the Bishop of Eureux (afterwards called the Cardinal du Perron) in presence of King Henry the Fourth, the Chancellor, five Judges of both Religions, and the whole Room full of learned men, disputed with Monsieur Plessis Mornay, the Achilles of those of Charenton, The Hall of Maskes, and the Lodgings of Madame Gabrielle with her picture Madame Gabriells picture. over the Chimny like a Diana hunting, are fine Roomes: yet the fair picture cannot hinder men from blaming her foul life, nor from censuring that Solœcism of the Painter, who made chaste Diana look like Madame Gabrielle. The Chappels.There are also here two Chappels, the old and the new. The old one is a poor thing; and seems to have ben built ​for hunters: but the new one is both neat and stately, and built upon this occasion, as a Bishop in France told me. A Spanish Embassadour residing in Paris in Henry the IV, his time; went one day from Paris to Fountainbleau, to see this French Escurial. Arriving, he lighted after his Countryes fashion, at the Chappel door (the old Chappel) and entring in, to thank God for his safe arival, he wondred to see so poor and dark a Chappel, and asking with indignation, whether this were the Casa di dios? the house of God? he turned presently away with scorn, saying, No quiero Veer mas, I care for seeing no more: not staying to see that place, where the King had so fine a house, and God so poor a Chappel. This being told the last King Lewis the XIII. he commanded forthwith tie new Chappel to be built in that sumptuous posture we now see it.
Going out of the house, you finde a handsome Mail, and Rare Ponds of water, which even baptize ​Old Carpsthis place with the name of Fountainbelleau. In these Ponds, as also in the moat about the house, are conserved excellent Carps; some whereof were said to be an hundred years old: which though we were not bound to believe, yet their very white scales, and dull moving up and down, might make men believe that there are gray scales, as well as gray hairs; and decayed fishes; as well as decrepid men: especially when De Re Rust.Columella speaks of a fish of his acquaintance, in Cæsars fish ponds near Pausilippus, which had lived threescore years, and Gesnerus relates, that in a fish-pond near Haylprum in Suabe, a fish was catched anno 1497, with a brass ring at his gills, in which were ingraven these words: I am the first fish which Frederick the second, Governour of the world put into this Pond the 5 of October 1203. By which it appears, that this fish had lived two hundred and sixty odd years. But to return again to our Carps of Fountainbelleau, Its an ordinary divertisement here, to throw an halfpenny loaf into ​the moat among the Carps, and to see how they will mumble and jumble it to and fro; how others will puff and snuff, and take it ill not to have part of it, and how in fine, they will plainly fall to blows, and fight for it. You would wonder, how such hot passions should be found in cold water: but every thing that lives, will fight for that which makes it live; its Vittails.
An old Inscription concerning Englishmen.Having seen Fountainbelleau, I saw one extraordinary thing in the rest of the way to Lyons, but an old Inscription in letters of gold, upon a woodden Fabrick, a mile before I came to Montargis, importing, that the English being encamped here, had been forced to rase their Siege before Montargis, by reason of great raynes and sudden inundations. Some of the French Historians will have it, that it was the Count de Dunois, that forced the English to raise the Siege here: but I had rather believe publick inscriptions, then private flattery: and it was more honourable for the English to be overcome by God, then by men,
​Montargis.From hence I passed through Montargis, a neat pleasant Town, in the great Hall of whose Castle, is painted the history of the dog that fought a Duel with the Murderer of his Master; and it is not strange that the dog that had put on humanity, overcame him that had put it off, to espouse the devouring humour of a Dog. This is the chief Town of the Gastinois.
Briare.From hence I went to Briare where I saw the cut Channel that joynes The Conjunction of Loire and Sene.Loire and Sene together in Trafick, whose bedds otherwise stand wide from one another in scituation.
From thence to Cosne, la Charite, Pougues famous for wholesome stinking waters; Neures, famous for glass houses: Moulins famous for knives and Scizars: La Palisse where they make excellent Winter-boots; Roanne where Loire begins to be navigable, and so over Terrara hills to Lions,
Lyons.Lyons is one of the greatest and richest towns in France. It stands upon the Rivers Saone, and Rhosne, (Araris and Rhodanus) and inter​cepting all the merchandize of Burgondy, Germany, and Italy, It licks its fingers notably, and thrives by it. It expresseth this in its loooks: for here you have handsome people; noble houses, great jollity, frequent Balls, and much bravery: all markes of a good town; and could it but intercept either the Parlament of Aix, or Grenoble, it would be as noble as its name, or as its Cathedral Chapter, A noble Chapter. whose Dean and Prebends are all Counts, and noble of four descents: They got the title of Counts thus: A great contest arising between the Chapter of St. John's Church, and the Count de Forrests called Guigo, for some rights over the Town of Lyons which they both pretend to; at last anno 1166, they came to an Agreement, upon this condition, that the Count should leave to the Chapter his County of Forrests; which he did; aud so ever since the Dean and Prebends have been called Counts of S. John.
The chief things to be seen in Lyons are these.
1. The great Church, or Cathe​S. Johns Church.dral, called Johns Church. Its the Seat of an Archbishop, who is Primat of Gaule. S. Irenæus was a great ornament of this Church, as was also Eucherius, Upon solemn dayes the Canons officiate in Miters like Bishops. They sing here all the Office by heare, and without book, as also without prick-song Musick, Organs, or other Instruments, using only the ancient plain-song. The High Altar is like those of Italy, that is open on all sides, with a Crucifix and two little candle-sticks upon it. I never saw any hangings in this Church; not upon the greatest dayes, but Venerable old walls. The clock here is much cryed up for a rare piece.
The town House.2. The stately new Town-house, of pure white-free-stone, able to match that of Amsterdam, and indeed they seemed to me to be twins; for I saw them both in the same year as they were in building. The curious staircase, and Hall above, are the things most worthy taking notice of, the one for its contrivance; the other ​for its painting.
Other Rarities.3. The Jesuits Colledge and fair Library, 4. The Carthusians Monastery upon a high Hill. 5. The Minimes Sachristy well painted. 6. The rest of the old Aqueduct upon the Hill. 7. The Mail, and the sweet place of Belle Cour. 8. The Heart of Saint Frances de Sales in the Church of the Visitation in Belle Cour. 9. The Charite where all the poor are kept at work with admirable œconomy: It looks like a little Town, having in it nine Courts, all built up with lodgings for the poor, who are about fifteen hundred, and divided into several Classes, with their several Refectories and Chappels. 10. The Head of St. Bonaventure in the Cordeliers Church. 11. The Castle of Pierre Ancise, built upon a Rock. 12. Nostre Dame de Fourier standing upon a high hill, from whence you have a perfect view of Lyons.
The rare Cabinet of Monsieur Servier.13. Lastly, the rare Cabinet of Monsieur Servier a most ingenious gentleman; where I saw most rare experiments in Mathematicks and ​Mechanicks; all made by his own hand; as the Sympathetical balls, one springing up at the approach of the other held up a pretty distance off: the demonstration of a quick way how to pass an army over a river with one boat, and a woodden bridge easily to be foulded up upon one cart: the Mouse-dyal, where a little thing, like a mouse, by her insensible motion, markes the hours of the day. The Lizard-Dial is much like the former, onely the mouse moves upon a plain frame of wood which hath the hours marked on it; and the Lizard creeps upward from hour to hour. The night dyal, shewing by a lighted lamp set behind it, the hours of the night, which are painted in colours upon oyled Paper, and turn about as the time goes. The Tortoise-dyal, where a piece of Cork cut like a Tortoise, being put into a peuter dish of water, which hath the twelve hours of the day marked upon its brims, goeth up and down the water a while, seeking out the hour of the day that ​is then, and there fixing it self without stirring. The Rare engine reading how to throw Granados into besieged Towns, and into any precise place without failing. The way how to set up a watch-Tower with a man in it, to look into a Town from without; and see how they are drawn up within the Town: A way how to change dining Rooms three or four times, with their Tables, the Seats and Guests, being by the turning of a wheele transported sitting, out of one Roome into another; and so into three or four more Roomes variously hung with tables covered. The Desk-dyal, which throws up a little Ball of Ivory without rest, and thereby marketh the hour of the day, and sheweth what a clock it is: the Dyal of the Planets representing the dayes of the week by several figures in ivory of the Planets: the Oval Dyal in which the neede that markes the hours, shrinketh in, or stretcheth our it self according as the oval goes: the Dyal shewing to every one that ​toucheth it his predominant passion; with a world of other rare curiofities, all made made by this ingenious gentleman,
Leaving Lyons, I embarked in a Cabanne, or little covered boat, and descending the rapid Rhosne, I came poste by water, to Vienne.Vienne; where Pontius Pilate, banished hither, threw himself off a high Tower, and killed himself. The Cathedral of this Town is a fair Church dedicated to God, in the Honour of St. Maurice: there are neither Pictures, nor hangings in this Church.
Tournon.From hence I went to Tournon, where I saw a good Library in the Colledge.
Valence.Thence to Valence in Dauphine, where Law is taught.
Pont S. Esprit.From whence I came to Pont Saint Esprit famous for its long bridge of thirty three arches, and for the bones of a Gyant which are conserved in the Dominicans Convent here; And from hence to Avignon.
Avignon.Avignon is the head Town of a little Country, called Vulgarly the ​Le Contad d' Avignon. It belongs to the Pope, having been purchased by one of his Predecessors anciently of Jane, Queen of Naples and Countess of Avignon: and it served for a safe retreat to divers Popes consecutively, during the troubles of Italy which lasted above seaventy years. At last, Italy and the Popes Territories there, being cleared by the admirable Courage and Conduct of brave Cardinal Albornozzo, who conquered again all the Popes estate, The Pope Gregory the XI. returned home again to Rome. Of the foresaid Cardinal Albornozzo I cannot omit to tell one thing; That after his great services rendered to the Pope, being envied by some of the Court, who had perswaded his Holiness to call him to an Accompt for the great Summes of Money he had spent in reducing again the whole State of the Pope unto its Obedience; be brought the next morning a Cart laden with chaines, bolts, locks, and Keyes belonging once to those Townes which he had retaken for the Pope, and pla​ed it under the Popes window: then going up, one desiring his Holiness to draw to a window to see his Accompts the better, he opened the window, and shewed him below, the Cart laden with chains, bolts, locks and keyes; saying, Holy Father, I spent all your mony in making you master again of those Towns whose keyes, locks, bolts and chains you see in that Cart below. At which the Pope admiring, desired no more Accompt of him, who proved his Honesty by whole Cart-loads of Services. Ever since that time, Avignon hath belonged to the Pope, and he governeth it by a Vice-Legat immediately, the Popes Nephew pro tempore, being alwayes Legat of this Town,
The rarities.The things I saw here were these: 1. The Cathedral Church, with divers Tombes of Popes in it that dyed here. 2. The Church of S. Didier, with the Tombe of Petrus Damianius who followed the Pope hither: He was famous for his Learned works, and his known sanctity. 3. The Church of the Celestins, ​with the Tombe, and neat Chappel of Cardinal Peter of Luxenburg, a young man of a great family, and of ba greater sanctity. 4. The Carthusians Monastery in the Bourge of Villeneuve, where you shall see much good panting. 5. The Dominicans fair Convent, with the Chappel and true Picture of St. Vincentius Ferrerius a holy man of this Order. 6. The Cordeliers Church famous for its wideness, and yet not supported by any Pillars, Here lyes buried Madame Laurarendrered so famous by Petrarchs Verses: not that she was a dishonest woman, but onely chosen by him, to be the poetical mistress of his Sonnets. 7. The Church of the Fathers of the Christian Doctrine, with the body, yet entire, of the Founder of their order P. Cæsar de Bus, a man of such singular Sanctity, that Cardinal Richlieu banished hither, whiles he was onely Bishop of Luson, offered and vowed a silver Lamp to God at the Tombe of this holy Beato. 8. The fine Free-stone walls of this Town, the admirable Bridge, many han​some Pallaces, and curious. Gardens. 9, The trading of this Town, which consists much in silk-stuffs, perfumed gloves, ribands, and fine Paper. 10. The inhabitants here, who love to go well adjusted and appear in fine clothes,
Aix.From Avignon I went by Land to Aix in Provence, a University, a Parliament town, and one of the neatest towns in France: of the Parliament of this town Monsieur du Vair was the first President, and a singular Ornament, by reason of his famous eloquence. This town is the seat of an Archbishop; and is now possessed by Cardinal Grimaldi who is Archbishop here. From hence I went to Marseilles.
Marseilles.Marseilles is a very ancient town, built 633 years before our Saviours time, and so famous antiently for learning, that it was compared with Athens. It stands upon the Mediterranean Sea, and hath a most neat Haven and harbour for ships and gallyes. I stayed here eight days to wait upon the return of two Gallies of Genna, that had brought ​an Embassadour from thence into France, and were to return within a few dayes. In this time, I had leisure to make a little excursive Voyage to the famous place of Devotion called La Sainte BeaumeLa sainte Beaume, where S. Mary Magdalen lived a most penitential life in these Mountains and deserts, even after she had been assured of her pardon by our Saviour himself. See Baronius ad an. 35. Gordons Cronology. Gerard of Nazareth in a treatise ex professo.The place it self is able to make any man that considereth it well, melt into some pennance too, and sigh at least, to see how much she (a woman) did, and how little he (a man) doth; for excellentissima animadvertenti, ne mediocria quidem prætare, rubori oportet esse, saith a great Author, In Marseilles it self there remain some prints of her begun pennance: but the that had been a sinner in the City (and perchance by that occasion onely) Mulier peccatrix in civite.thought the Desert a safer place; and so shewed her conversion to be true, by flying the occasions of her former sins.
IF you ask me, how Mary Magdalen came hither; I must ask ​See Baron an. 35 Genebrad Gautier. Chassanus and Monsieur du Vair. you, how Joseph of Aramathea came into England: and learned Baronius will answer us both; by telling us, that upon a persecution raised against the Christians in Hierusalem, Mary Magdalen, her sister Martha, her brother Lazarus, with Joseph of Arimathea, and divers others of the first Christians, were exposed to Sea in a ship without sayles, without rudder, without anchor, without pilot, and yet the ship came happily to Marseills, where Lazarus preaching the faith of Christ, was made the first Bishop of this Town; and Joseph of Arimathea came into England.
S. Maximin.Near to Saincte Beaume stands the Town of S. Maximin famous for the Church of S. Maximin governed by Dominican Friers: In this Church are to be seen many famous Reliques of S. Mary Magdalen; as her head in a Chrystal case enchased in gold: her body in a guilt chasse, and divers other rich things.
Having seen Marseilles, I embarked in the foresaid Gallies, and was nine dayes in them before I ​arrived at Genoa; having seen in the way, Toulon, Nice, Antibo, Monaco, Savona, and so to Genua.
Thus I passed, though tediously, yet securely from France into Italy by Sea: and I could almost wish my Traveller to take the same Course, if he were sure to finde two Gallies well manned, as I did, to carry him thither. Otherwise to venture himself (as men ordinarily with extraordinary danger do) in a little Feluca, a boat little bigger then a pair of Oares, is a thing I would wish none to do, but Pyrronians, and Indifferents Pyrrha dicebat, nihil interesse inter vitam & mortem. who think danger and security to be the same thing. For my part, though I dare not say with that cowardly Italian, who being laughed at for his running away in a battle, answered; I was not affraid, but onely had a minde to try how long a mans skin well kept would last: yet I dare say with generous Cato, that I repent me soundly, if ever I went by water, when I could have gone by Land.
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