# Narrative of a survey of the intertropical and western coasts of Australia/Volume 1/Chapter 9

CHAPTER IX.
1820 —— June 21.In preparing our little vessel for a third voyage, it became requisite to give her a considerable repair; and, among many other things, there was an absolute necessity for her being fresh coppered; but, from the pretended scarcity of copper sheathing in the colony and other circumstances that opposed the measure, we found more than a common difficulty in effecting it. The cutter was careened at a place appointed for the ​purpose1820 —— June 12. on the east side of Sydney Cove; and whilst undergoing her repair, the crew lived on board a hulk hired for the occasion. This offered so favourable an opportunity for destroying the rots and cockroaches with which she was completely overrun, a measure that, from the experience of our last voyage, was considered absolutely necessary for our comfort as well as for our personal safety, that, as soon as the operation of coppering and caulking was finished, she was secured along-side of the hulk, and there immersed in the water for several days; by which process we hoped effectually to destroy them.
Upon the vessel being raised and the water pumped out, I was rejoiced to find that the measure appeared to have had the desired effect; but, before we left Port Jackson, she was again infested by rats, and we had not been long at sea before the cockroaches also made their appearance in great numbers. In sinking the cutter it seemed, in respect to the insects, that we had only succeeded in destroying the living stock, and that the eggs, which were plentifully deposited in the recesses and cracks of the timbers and sides, proved so impervious to the sea-water, that no sooner had we reached the warmer climate, than they were hatched, and the vessel was quickly repossessed by them; but it was many months ​1820 —— June 12.before we were so annoyed by their numbers as had been the case during. the last voyage.
Our crew, after they had returned the stores and fitted the standing rigging, were paid their wagoe; when, with only two exceptions, they were at their own wish discharged, and it was some time before a new crew was collected. Whilst we were repairing the defects, H. M. store-ship Dromedary arrived from England, and brought us a selection of stores, for the want of which we should otherwise have been detained many months.
By this ship orders were received from the Admiralty to rig the cutter with rope manufactured from the New Zealand hemp (phormisum tenax), but there was a considerable difficulty in procuring enough even for a boom-sheet. This specimen was prepared by a rope-maker of the colony, and the result of the trial has fully justified the good opinion previously formed of its valuable qualities.
In my communication to the Admiralty in June, 1815, from Timor, I had mentioned the necessity of a medical man being attached to the vessel; and upon my last return I found one had arrived with an appointment to the Mermaid; but, to my great mortification, he was unable to join, from being afflicted with mental derangement, which ​1820 —— June 12.continued so long and so severely, that I Was under the necessity of sending him back to England. We had now every prospect of encountering a third voyage without the assistance of a surgeon. Hitherto we had been fortunate in not having materially suffered from the want of so valuable an officer; but it was scarcely probable we could expect to continue upon such a service much longer without severe sickness. As any assistance, therefore, was preferable to none, I accepted the proffered services of a young man who was strongly recommended by his Excellency the Governor, and he was on the point of joining me, when a surgeon of the navy, Mr. James Hunter, who had just arrived in charge of a convict ship, volunteered his services, which were gladly accepted, and he was immediately attached to the Mermaid's establishment.
The accession of a surgeon to our small party relieved me of a greater weight of anxiety than I can describe; and, when it is considered that Mr. Hunter left an employment of a much more lucrative nature, to join an arduous service in a vessel whose only cabin was scarcely large enough to contain our mess-table, and which afforded neither comfort nor convenience of any description, I may be allowed here to acknowledge my thanks for the sacrifice he made.
​1820 —— June 12.After all our defects were repaired, and we were otherwise quite ready for sea, we were detained nearly a month before our crew was 14.completed; and it was not until the 14th of June that we left Port Jackson.
For a day or two previous to our departure the weather had been very unsettled; and, when we sailed, there was every appearance of an approaching gale of wind: we had, however, been detained so long in collecting a crew, that I was glad to sail the moment we were ready: besides, I hoped to get to the northward before the threatening storm commenced. Unfortunately, however, we had no sooner put to sea than it set in; and, by the time we were abreast of Smoky Cape, the wind, after flying about, fixed itself in the eastern board, and blew extremely hard, with thick weather and heavy rain. The gale lasted with little intermission during the 20th and 21st;20–22. and at four o'clock the next morning we had the misfortune to lose our bowsprit by the vessel's plunging into a head sea. We had, however, made a sufficient offing to enable us to keep away two points, so that, by rigging the wreck of the bowsprit, which was barely long enough to spread the storm jib, we contrived to steer a course we had every reason to think would carry her clear of Port Stevens. We continued ​to run to the southward until the afternoon, when, 1820. — June 22. supposing we had passed that port, we bore away to the S.W. At midnight the gale fell, and the wind changed to the westward. At day, 23. light land was seen to windward, which, from the distance we had ran, was supposed to be about Port Stevens; but we found ourselves at noon, by a meridional observation, off Jervis' Bay; so that the current, during the gale, had set us one hundred and fifty miles to the south. ward, and for the last twenty-four hours at the rate of nearly three knots per hour. Owing to this we did not arrive at Port Jackson until the following day at noon;24. and it was sunset before the cutter anchored in the cove.
It appeared, on our arrival, that the weather had been even worse on the land than we had experienced it at sea. The Nepean and Hawkesbury Rivers had been flooded, by which the growing crops had been considerably injured, but happily, the colony has long.ceased to suffer from these once much-dreaded inundations: a great portion of upland country, out of the reach of the waters, is now cultivated, from which the government stores are principally supplied. with grain. Individuals who, from obstinacy, persist in the cultivation of the low banks of the Hawkesbury, alone suffer from these ​destructive floods, which have been known to rise in a few hours to the height of eighty feet above the usual level of the river's bed. The evil, however, deposits its own atonement: and the succeeding crop, if it escapes a flood, repays the settlers for their previous loss: this it is that emboldens them to persist in their ill-advised temerity. At no very distant period a time will arrive when these very lands, the cultivation of which has caused so much distress to the colony and ruin to individuals, will, by being laid down in grass for the purposes of depasturing cattle, become a considerable source of wealth to their possessors.
There has been no general want of grain in the colony since the year 1817, although there have been several floods upon the Hawkesbury and the other rivers that fall into it, which have greatly distressed the farmers of that district. One of the arguments, therefore, with which the enemies of colonizing in New South Wales have hitherto armed themselves, in order to induce emigrants to give the preference to Van Diemen's Land, falls to the ground.
We were fortunate in finding in the naval yard, a spar of the New Zealand cowrie pine, (dammrura,) large enough for our bowspirit; and, on the 13th of July, having had our ​damages repaired, we resumed our voyage under more favourable omens,—for we saild with a fair wind and fine weather.
July 17.On the 17th July, we were off Moreton Bay, and, in the afternoon, communicated with a whaler which heaved in sight off the Cape (Moreton). My object was to learn whether she had heard any tidings of a boat belonging to the Echo whaler, which ship had been lately wrecked on the Cato's bank: one of her boats with part of her crew, arrived at Sydney a few days before we sailed; but another boat, in which the master and the remainder of her people embarked, had not been heard of; and I entertained hopes that this vessel had picked them up, but, on the master's coming on board, I found that he was quite ignorant of her loss.
It so happened that both ships belonged to the same owner, Messrs. Bennetts, of London; and we had the satisfaction of afterwards hearing that the information we had thus afforded proved useful; for the vessel subsequently succeeded in finding the boat and preserving the lives of the crew. After giving our visiter some information respecting the coast and the reef off Cape Moreton, which he claimed as his discovery, but which, much to his surprise, we shewed him already laid down on Captain Flinders's ​chart of 1801, he returned to his ship and we resumed our course to the northward.
18.At nine o'clock the next evening, having passed Indian Head in the morning, we rounded Breaksea-Spit, and, at midnight, brought to the wind, in order to make Lady Elliot's Island; 19.but finding at daylight that a current had drifted us past it, we steered on, and, at ten o'clock discovered a group of low woody islets. They were named Bunker's Isles. It has since been ascertained that they abound with turtle and beche de mer, that latter of which, if not both, will at some future time become of considerable importance to the coasting trade of New South Wales.
20.On the 20th we anchored on the south side of Port Bowen, in the entrance of the inlet that extends to the southward within in the projection of Cape Clinton; but, in doing this, we were unfortunate enough to get aground, and receive very serious damage. After passing the Cape and hauling round its inner trend towards the sandy bay, we had to beat to windward to reach the anchorage, and, in the act of tacking on the western side of the inlet, the tide swept us upon a sand-bank, over which, as the wind was blowing obliquely upon it, the cutter continued to drive until the sails were taken in and an anchor ​1820 —— July 20.laid out astern to check her; but before we could extricate her from the dangerous situation in which she was placed, it was found necessary to lay out another bower-anchor, for there was a rolling swell upon the bank, and, every time it left her, she struck very hard upon the ground. Happily the tide was flowing, and, as soon as the vessel floated, she was warped into a secure birth within the heads of the inlet.
During the time that the cutter had been on the bank, which was two hours and a half, she was continually striking; and, at one time, we heard a loud crash, which gave us reason to fear that some serious damage had happened. At first it was thought either that the pintles of the rudder were broken, or that the stern-post was rent; but, upon examination, both appeared to have escaped; and, as no leak was observed during the night, I indulged the hope that the noise was not occasioned by any accident that would inconvenience us, or oblige our premature return to Port Jackson. That this hope proved to be fallacious will soon appear; and, had the extent of the damage received been discovered before we left this anchorage, I should not have ventured further up the coast, but have immediately returned to Port Jackson. Had the tide been falling when the vessel struck, instead ​1820 —— July 20.of the reverse, our situation must have been attended with more serious damage, if not our total loss; and therefore, comforted by an ideal security, we consoled ourselves under our comparatively good fortune.
21.The next day was spent in watering, getting provisions to hand in the hold and refitting some temporary damage to the rigging. Mr. Hunter and Mr. Cunningham ranged about the vicinity of the shore whilst Mr. Roe, with a boat's crew, was employed in filling our empty water-casks from a gully at the back of the beach.
Soon after the watering-party commenced their work, some shrill voices were heard near them among the trees: in a short time two natives made their appearance, and were easily persuaded to approach. They were unarmed, and communicated with confidence and apparently were disposed to be friendly; one of them gave Mr. Roe a fishing-line spun and twisted of strips of bark, to the end of which was attached a hook made from a turtle-shell.
Our gentlemen revisited the shore in the afternoon, but without seeing the natives. In wandering about, they discovered some stumps of trees close to the beach, that bore marks of having been felled with a sharp instrument; and near some huts they found several strips of ​canvass1820 —— July 21. lying on the ground, from which it would appear that the place had recently been visited by Europeans.
22.I landed, the next morning, with a theodolite, in order to obtain some bearings from the summit of the hill over the beach, but my intention was frustrated by a visit from the natives, five of whom made their appearance upon the hills as the boat arrived at the shore. The party consisted of three men and two boys: one of the men carried a spear, another had a boomerang, of a smaller size, but otherwise similar to that which the Port Jackson natives use; and the ​1820 —— July 22.boys each carried a short branch of a tree in their hands: they met us half way, and allowed us to approach with our muskets, a circumstance which dispelled all suspicion of any unfriendly feeling towards us; nor do I think any did exist when we first met.
In order to divert them and obtain as much information as we could, whilst the boat's crew were filling the water-casks, we seated ourselves on the grass, and commenced a conversation that was perfectly unintelligible to each other, accompanied with the most ridiculous gestures, a species of buffoonery that is always acceptable to the natives of this part of the world, and on more than one occasion has been particularly useful to us. An attempt was made to procure a vocabulary of their language, but without success, for we were soon obliged from their impatience to give it up. Not so easily, however, were they diverted from their object, for every article of our dress, and every thing we carried, they asked for with the greatest importunity; our refusal disappointed them so much, that they could not avoid shewing the hostile feelings they had evidently begun to entertain towards us. Seeing this, I took an opportunity of convincing them of our power, and, after some difficulty, persuaded the native that carried the spear to ​1820 —— July 22.throw it at a paper-mark placed against a bush at the distance of twelve yards. He launched it twice, but, much to his mortification, without striking the object. Mr. Hunter then fired, and perforated the paper with shot, which increased the shame that the native and his companions evidently felt upon the occasion: Mr. Hunter then killed a small bird that was skipping about the branches of an overhanging tree; upon the bird being given to them, they impatiently and angrily examined it all over, and particularly scrutinized the wound that caused its death.
We now found that the proved superiority of our weapons, instead of quieting them, only served to inflame their anger the more; and we were evidently on the point of an open rupture. One of them seized the theodolite-stand, which I carried in my hand, and I was obliged to use force to retain it. They then made signs to Mr. Hunter to send his gun to the boat; this was of course refused, upon which one of the seized it, and it was only by wrenching it from his grasp that Mr. Hunter repossessed himself of it.
Many little toys were now given to them, on receiving which, their countenances relaxed into a smile; and peace would perhaps have been restored, had we not unfortunately presented them ​1820 —— July 22.with a looking.glass. in which they were, for the first time, witnesses of their hideous countenances, which were rendered still more savage from the ill-humour they were in. They now became openly angry; and, in very unequivocal terms, ordered us away. Fortunately, the Indian that carried the spear was the least ill-tempered of the party, or we should not perhaps have retreated without being under the necessity of firing in self-defence.
We retired, however, without any farmer rupture, and left them seated on the bank, whence they continued to watch our movements until the boat was loaded and we left the shore. They then came down to the beach, and searched about for whatever things We might accidentally have left behind; and, after examining with great attention some marks that, for amusement, some of our party had scratched upon the sand, they separated. The old man and the two boys embarked in a canoe, and paddled round the point towards the Cape, in which direction also the other two natives bent their steps.
The tall, slender form of the Port Jackson natives, and their other peculiarities of long curly hair, large heads, and spare limbs; are equally developed in the inhabitants of this part. The bodies of these people are, however, ​considerably1820 —— July 22. more scarified than their countrymen to the southward, and their teeth are perfect. One of our visitors had a fillet of plaited grass, whitened by pigment, bound round hiss head, and this was the only ornament worn by them.
The spear was of very rude form, and seemed to be a branch of the mangrove-tree, made straight by the effect of fire: it did not appear that they used the throwing-stick.
The soil of the hills of Cape Clinton is of good quality, but the country at the back of the port appears to be chiefly marshy land. Mr. Hunter sowed orange and lemon seeds in various places in the neighbourhood of the cape; the climate of this part is so well adapted for those trees, that, ff it were so possible to protect them from the fires of the natives, they would soon grow up, and pove a valuable refreshment to voyagers.
Captain Flinders describes the soil at the northern part of the port to be "either sandy or stony, and unfit for cultivation." The country around Mount Westalll is also formed of a shallow soil, but the low lands are covered with grass and trees, and thee ravines and sides of the hills are covered with stunted pine-tees which were thought to be the armouria excelsa.
​1820 —— July 22.The country between. Port Bowen and Shoalwater Bay is low and overun wiith mangroves; but Captain Flinders speaks more favourably of the land about the latter bay, particularly in the vicinity of his Pine Mount, where he describes the soil as being fit for cultivation. At Upper Head in Broad Sound, the country appears to be still better; in addition to which, the great rise of tides might be of considerable importance to that place, should a settlement there ever be contemplated.
Having obtained sights on the beach at Cape Clinton for the time-keepers, we sailed out of this port by the same track that we entered; and held our course to the northward, toward the Northumberland Islads.
At midnight we were abreast of the Percy Islands. 23.At noon the next day we passed to the westward of the islet, marked k 1, and thence steered between the Three Rocks and k 2, and, before sunset, were near l 2, the island on which Captain Flinders landed. The night was passed under sail, and at daylight,24. when we resumed our course towards the Cumberland Islands, Linné Peak and Shaw's Peak, and the land about Capes. Hillsborough and ​Conway1820 —— July 24. were seen. At noon we were off Pentecost Island.
Hence we steered to the northward, within a string of rocky islets. On passing this part, some natives came down to a point, kindled a fire to attract our attention. At four o'clock in the evening, we rounded the north extreme of the Cumberland Islands; and, by sunset, obtained a set of bearings to connect the present survey to that of last year. A lofty peak on the main, distinctly visible from all parts, particularly from. Repulse Bay, was named after the late Jonas Dryander, Esq.; it was ascertained to be 4566 feet high.
The Cumberland Islands are all high and rocky, and are covered on their windward or south-east sides with stunted timber and pine-trees; but the leeward sides, being sheltered from the wind, are generally well clothed with grass and timber. The pine-trees on these islands do not appear to be of large dimensions, but several vessels have-cut spars upon the islands near the south end of Whit-Sunday Passage, large enough for topmasts and bowsprits for vessels of 400 tons burthen. It is not probable that larger spars can be obtained: they are very tough, but full of knots; and, when ​1820 —— July 24.carried away by the wind, break short without splintering.
We passed Capes Gloucester and Upstart during the night25. and early part of the next morning. Between the latter cape and the low projection of Cape Bowling-green, we experienced an in-draught of three quartes of a knot per hour. This also oecurred last year; and it should be guarded against by ships passing by: for the land about the latter cape is so low that it cannot be seen at night.
From the period of cur entering among the Northumberland Islands, the weather, although fine, had been more than usually hazy; the wind, during the day, blew moderately from S.b.E. and South, and veered towards night, to S.E.b.E. and E.S.E.; but, when we passed Cape Cleveland, it blew a fresh breeze, and was so very hazy, that we could not take advantage of our vicinity to the coast by verifying or improving any part of our former survey, except the outer or seaward side of the Palm Island Group, near which we passed in the evening.
26.The next morning we were off the southernmost Barnard's Island, and, as the coast between Double Point and Fitzroy Island had not been satisfactorily laid down on the previous ​1820 —— July 26.nation of this part, we steered near the shore in order to improve it; but the land was much overcast, ant the summits of Bellenden Ker's Range were so enveloped in clouds, that very little improvement was effected.
A breeze, however, in the evening from S.E. dispersed the vapours that had collected during the day on the sea horizon. In passing outside of Fitzroy Island, a sand bank, situated nine miles E.½S. from the island, was noticed, and other banks were reported from the mast head; but on my going up, I saw nothing more than a bright appearance on the horizon, which is, however, an indication of their existence that seldom failed in being correct, whenever an opportunity offered of proving it.
Bearing up between. Cape Grafton and Green Island, we steered N.W.½N., by compass, to make the Low Isles in Trinity Bay. The weather was thick and misty with showers of rain; but as a sight of these islands was of consequence in crossing this bay, we continued to steer for them, and at midnight they were seen. This enabled us to direct the course with more confidence towards Cape Tribulation, over Captain Cook's track.
27.At daylight we were off the cape, and soon passed to the eastward of the Hope Islands; ​between 1820 —— July 27. which and Endeavour River, we had an opportunity of laying down the reefs in the offing, particularly that on which the Endeavour struck, and which so nearly proved fatal to her enterprising commander and his companions.
As it was our intention to visit Endeavour River, to complete our former observations for the determination of its longitude, we hauled in for the land, and upon reaching the entrance, with which I was sufficiently acquainted, steered over the bar on which the least water was ten feet, and secured the cutter to the beach on the same spot occupied at our last visit.
Being anxious to see what change had taken place during an absence of twelve months, our steps were naturally first directed to the spot where our boat had been built; the remains of our encampment were still visible, and the carpenter's bench was exactly in the same state as it had been left: the Mermaid's name, which had been carved on a tree, was also legible; but in a short time would have been defaced by the young bark which had already nearly covered it. Upon visiting our former watering place, we were mortified to find that it was quite dried up; and this may probably account for the absence of natives, for there was not a single vestige of their presence on this side of the port; but, as large fires were ​1820 —— July 27.burning at the back of the north shore, it was presumed they were in that direction. On setting fire to the grass to clear a space for our tent, it was quick;y burnt to the ground, and the flames continued to ravage and extend over the hills until midnight.
28.The following day we erected tents and commenced some repairs of the jolly boat, which was hauled up in the usual place; the other two boats were sent to the north end of the long sandy beach on the opposite side, to examine the state of the rivulet which we had noticed there last year. On their return, they reported it to be still running with a plentiful stream; and, although it was rather inconvenient, from the beach being exposed to the swell and surf, yet our boats made daily trips to it without any ill consequences, notwithstanding one of them was once swamped in loading; it did not, however, sustain any injury.
Another stream of water was subsequently found on the south side, a little without the entrance of the harbour, but too brackish for the purpose of drinking; it was, therefore, merely used during our stay for the common purposes of washing and cooking.
Whilst our people were thus employed, I was assisted by Mr. Roe at the observatory. As the particulars of our observations for this and ​1820 —— July 28. the preceding years are inserted in the Appendix, it will be sufficient here merely to record the position of the observatory; it was situated on the south shore opposite the low sandy north point; and was found to be in
| Latitude | 15° 27′ 4″. |
| Longitude | 145° 10′ 49″. |
| Variation of the compass | 5° 13¾′E. |
| Dip of the south end of the Needle | 38° |
| High water at full and change | at eight o'clock. |
29.On the 29th Mr. Bedwell went to Captain Cook's Turtle Reef, but he was unsuccessful in his search for that animal; neither did he find any shells different from what we had previously seen; only a few clams (chama gigaa) were brought away, besides a small fish of the shark tribe (squakus ocellatus, Linn.) At high water the reef was overflowed excepting at its northwest end, where a patch of sand not larger than the boat was left dry. At low tide the key, or the ridge of rocks heaped up round the edge of the reef, was left dry, and formed a barricade for the interior, which is occupied by a shallow lake of circular shape, in which many small fish and some sharks were seen swimming about. It was from this reef that Captain Cook, during the repair of his ship, procured turtle for her crew; and, ​1820 —— July 29.this being the same season, we were disappointed in not obtaining any. On the return of the boat, she was placed in some danger from the number of whales, of the fin-back species, that were sporting about the surface of the water, and occasionally leaping out of it, and lashing the sea with their enormous fins.
30.On the 30th, having hitherto carried on our occupation without seeing or hearing any thing of the natives, whilst I was busily employed with Mr. Roe in observing the sun's meridional altitude, I happened on locking round to espy five natives standing about forty or fifty yards off among the high grass, watching our movements. As soon as they perceived we had discovered them, they began to repeat the word itcheuo (friend) and to pat their breasts, thereby intimating that their visit had no hostile motive. As the sun was rapidly approaching its meridian, I called Mr. Bedwell from on board to amuse them until our observations were completed. The only weapons they appeared to carry were throwing sticks, which we easily obtained in exchange for some grains of Indian corn.
A few words were obtained by Mr. Cunningham, which served to confirm many we had possessed ourselves of last year; and which, being afterwards compared with the vocabulary of the ​1820 —— July 30.New South Wales language given by-Captain Cook, proves that he obtained it at Endeavour River. And here it is not a little curious to remark that, of the only two words which materially differ in the two accounts, one of them is the name of the kangaroo. This word was repeatedly used to them last year, as well as this, accompanied by an imitation of the leap of the animal, which they readily understood; but, on repeating the word kangaroo, they always corrected us by saying "mēń-ŭ-ăh." This animal has, therefore, been distinguished by a name which chance alone gave it; and not, as has always been supposed, from the term applied to it by the natives of the part where Captain Cook first saw it.
The resemblance of the words in the following vocabulary proves that the language of these people has not changed since Captain Cook's visit; and that in the term for kangaroo he has been mistaken.
| | According to our Vocabulary. | According to Captain Cook. |
| Kangaroo | Mēn-ū-ǎh | Kangaroo. |
| Canoe | Mār-ǎ-ǎn | Maragan. |
| Eye | Ca-ree, or Me-ell | Meul. |
| Nose | E-mēr-dǎ, or Po-tē-er | Bon-joo. |
| Ear | Mil-kah | Melea. |
| Teeth | Mol-ear | ​ |
| Knee | Bōn-gǒ | Pongo. |
| Toes | Ēb-ě-rǎh | |
| Navel | Toōl-pǒ-rǎ | Tool poor. |
| A quail | Kah-kee or Moōl-lǎr | |
| Friend | Īt-chēw | |
| Pigment | Wǒ-parr | |
| Feathers | Tě-ērr | |
| Hair of the head | More-re-ah | Morye. |
| Beard | Wǒl-lāh | Waller. |
| Nipples | Cōy-ǒ-bēr-rah | Cayo. |
| Fingers | Mǔn-gāl-bǎh | |
| Elbow | Yē-ēr-wě | |
| Huts | Yē-ēr-kǎy | |
| Go along, go away, or go on | Tattee, or Tah-tee |
Among the presents made to them were some bead, which they appeared to consider of little value; but what pleased them most, was a bird that Mr. Hunter shot previous to their appearance.
Their visit did not ]ast longer than a quarter of an hour, during which they were very pressing for us to accompany them; finding us, however, unwilling to trust ourselves in their power, for from our experience of their mischievous behavior last year, we had good reason to be suspicious of their intentions, they went ​1820 —— July 30away, but after walking a short distance, one of them returned, and stopping, picked up something with which he immediately slunk off, evidently with the hope of having escaped our notice: but in this he was disappointed; for Mr. Hunter and Mr. Cunningham followed him, and ascertained that he returned to carry away his spear, which had been concealed close at hand during their communication with our party; and by the limping gait of the rest, it was probable that they all carried spears between their toes;—a practice that has been frequently observed among the natives in many parts of New South Wales, when they wish to conceal their being armed; and which generally indicates a mischievous intention.
Shortly after their departure, the country towards the back of the harbour was perceived to have been set on fire by them; as the wind was fresh, the flames spread about in all directions; and, in the evening, our people being allowed to about for amusement, increased the conflagration by setting fire to the surrounding grass; so that the whole surface in a blaze. 31.The next day, whilst busily employed at the tent in calculating some lunar distances, we were suddenly alarmed by the rapid approach of the flames; but having previously taken the ​precaution of burning the grass off round the tent, their advance was received with unconcern; they rapidity and fierceness, however, with which they approached, made me fear that the sparks might set fire to the tent, upon which the instruments were moved to the waters' edge, and the tent pulled down; but, had not the grass been previously cleared away, we could not have saved any article, from the rapidity with which the flames spread through that which had been left standing, and which was not more than ten yards from the tent.
Aug. 2.Three days after the visit from the natives, Mr. Bedwell and Mr. Hunter proceeded to examine among the mangroves, at the back of the harbour, for a communication with some fresh water ponds which we had discovered the day before; but they returned in the afternoon without success. They had penetrated up two or three openings in the mangroves; in one of which was found a canoe, similar to that described by the wood-cut at page 225: it was hollowed out of the trunk of the erythrina, and was furnished with an outrigger. A tulle-peg was found in it, which Mr. Hunter brought away; it measured seventeen inches in length, and was in other respects similar to that used by the natives of Rockingham Bay. (See the wood-cut at page 245.) On ​the mud, and close to the canoe, the gentlemen noticed the impression of a human foot, that must have been made since the .previous high tide. They also saw an alligator, but it was not more than eight feet in length.
Mr. Cunningham returned in the evening from a walk to the summit of Mount Cook, much fatigued from the difficulty he experienced in the ascent: he brought with him, however, a collection of specimens and seeds, which fully repaid him for the toil of his excursion. He also rendered his expedition useful to me, by taking the bearings of some reefs in the offing, and by furnishing a sketch of the bay on the south side of the mountain, and of the rivulet which falls into it. This did not appear to him to be deep enough for a vessel larger than a boat. It was this bay that Captain Cook first examined for a place to repair his ship, after his escape from the reef; but he found it much too inconvenient and exposed for his purpose; and it was after this that Endearour River was discovered.
On one of Mr. Cunningham's explorations he found several cabbage palms, (seaforthia elegans, Brown); but they were too distant from the tents to induce me to send for any for the Ship's company. Besides this, he also found a species of yam, (caladium macrorhizum, Cunn. MSS.), the ​roots of which would have furnished an excellent substitute for vegetables for us, had the plants been found in abundance, and convenient for gathering.
During our stay at tiffs harbour, our gentlemen visited every part of the country within five or six miles from the tents. The soil, although covered with grass, was generally remarked to be shallow and of inferior quality; as was sufficiently indicated by the small size of the trees. The distance to which we had penetrated was by no means sufficient to give a fair idea of the nature of the country in the interior; which, from its hilly appearance, might be expected to possess both a rich soil and a better pasturage than the parts we had seen; but for the latter, the neighbourhood of the entrance of Endeavour River was by no means insignificant.
The small number of our crew prevented my sending away a party to examine the interior with any certainty of protection, either to the travellers, or to those left in charge of the vessel; and this circumstance, on several occasions, precluded us from forming any correct idea of the productions of the places we visited, which we probably might have been partially enabled to do by a walk of two or three miles from the sea.
Some kangaroos were seen by us, during our visit; and Mr. Hunter shot a few birds: among ​the latter was a specimen of the psittacus hæmatodus, or Blue-mountain parrot of Port Jackson; and a crane-like bird, similar to the ardea antigone, was seen at a distance. Some of our gentlemen observed the impression of a bird's foot, resembling that of an emu; it was nine inches broad: very few insects were found here. We saw no more of the natives after their visit on the 30th, but the smokes of their fires were frequently observed in the interior. Mr. Cunningham found some traces of their having eaten the fruit of the pandanus, of which he says, "Pananus pedunculatus, (Brown,) forms ornamental clumps on these arid downs, and, being now heavily laden with its compound fruit, afforded me an ample supply of seeds in a well-ripened state. These tempting orange-coloured fruits had induced the natives to gather a quantity for the sake of the little pulp about their base, and I observed that, in order to enjoy themselves without trouble, they had lately kindled their fires immediately beneath some of the trees laden with fruit, which with some shell-fish had afforded them a good repast."—Cunningham MSS.
The weather during our visit has been oftener clouded and hazy than clear: the wind veered between S.S.E. and E.S,E., and was generally fresh and accompanied with squalls. The thermometer ranged on board, in the shade, between ​70° and 80°, Fahr., and the heat was by not means oppressive.
Having sufficiently attained our object in visiting this place, and having also taken the opportunity of completing our wood and water and repairing our boat, and we prepared to sail; and on the 5th,5. at seven o'clock in the morning, weighed anchor and made for the bar; but the wind was so baffling and unsteady that we had great difficulty in passing over it.
Our course was then directed round Cape Bedford towards Lizard Island. On our way we noticed several shoals. Off the south-west end of the island we saw a great many whales: soon after three o'clock we anchored in a sandy bay, on its south-west side. The wind, during the night and the following day,6. blew so fresh as to prevent our proceeding; the delay was therefor taken advantage of by our gentlemen to land and examine the island. It may be recollected that is was from the summit of Lizard Island that Captain Cook discovered the openings in the reefs, through which he passed and got to sea; little thinking that, by so doing, he was incurring a greater risk than by remaining within the reefs and steering along the coast. Some of our people walked round the island, where they found a whaler's ton butt cast upon the beach: ​it had probably belonged to the Echo. Near the cask were lying several cocoa-nuts, one of which was quite sound and perfect. The beach was strewed with pumice-stone, heaped up above the high-water mark.
The basis of the island is a coarse-grained granite. A shallow soil on the sides of the hills, the surface of which was thickly strewed with stones and large masses of rock, nourished a slight clothing of grass and other herbage. The summit of the island forms a peak, and is, perhaps, about a thousand feet high; the island is thinly wooded with small trees, which scarcely deserve the appellation of timber.
No natives were seen, but it was evident they had lately been upon the island, from the recent appearances of their fire-places and the perfect state of a hut, which was a more comfortable habitation than we have usually found: it was arched over in the usual way, by twigs bent in the form of a dome; and was neatly thatched with dry grass. No turtle marks were noticed on the beach, so that I should think this was not the season for laying their eggs.
8.We were detained at this anchorage, from the unfavourable state of the weather, until the 8th, on which day we sailed, and steered for Howick Group on a direct and unimpeded course. The ​channel appeared equally free on either side of the group; but, as it was a material object, on account of the unfavourable state of the weather, to make sure of reaching the anchorage under Cape Flinders, we did not attempt to pass round the northern side, but steered through the strait between 2 and 3, and then over our former track round Cape Melville. At six o'clock we anchored under Cape Flinders. Between Point Foley and Cape Melville I had an opportunity of improving my chart, with respect to the reefs in the offing, and of observing the outer limit of the barrier reefs, which were distinguished by the heavy breakers that lined the horizon. On rounding Cape Melville, the remarkable feature of which has been previously described at page 229, a pine-like tree was noticed growing on the summit of the ridge: Mr. Cunningham thought it was the araucaria excelsa; if his conjecture was right, this tree occupies a space of 900 miles of coast, between 14° 10′ and 29° 30′. It might, however, have been a callitris.
On passing round Cape Flinders, the remains of the Frederick's wreck were still seen scattered over the rocks; but appeared much reduced in quantity. Upon visiting it, the next morning,9.we observed evident proofs that some ship had lately been there and taken away several of her ​principal spars; and that a great portion of the smaller planks had been destroyed by the natives' fires. We took the opportunity of collecting some iron-work and teak planks, which afterwards proved more serviceable than we, at the time, anticipated.
Mr. Cunningham and Mr. Hunter walked about the island, but did not meet the natives. The traces both of men and dogs were so recent as to make us conjecture they were at no great distance; but, from our subsequent knowledge of thee inhabitants of these islands, there is no doubt but that they would have shewn themselves had they known of our visit. Mr. Cunningham also ascended a remarkably rugged looking hill at the south point of the bay, on the east side of the island, which from its appearance, received several appropriate names from our people, such as "Mount Dreary," and "Mount Horrid." Mr. Cunningham calls it Rugged Mount, and says, "it is thinly covered with a small variety of plants, similar to those of Cape Cleveland. This mount is a pile of rugged rocks, towered up to a considerable elevation above the sea, which washes its base: thee stones of the summit being of angular, or conical forms, (apparently basaltic,) whilst the general mass on the slopes or declivities are deeply excavated, furnishing ​spacious retreats to the natives. I entered one of the caverns (the walls of which were of a decomposing sand-stone,) having a window formed in it by the falling down of a portion of the side rock. The cave was a large, natural chamber, capacious enough to hold conveniently a large tribe of natives; who, from the numerous fire-places, broken turtle staffs, and other relics had not very long since dwelt there. I also found numerous fragments of quartzose rocks lying about, and pieces of a kind of marble, of a brown co1our, were abundant in the cavities, as well as upon the face of the mount."—(Cunningham MSS.)
10.Upon leaving Cape Flinders we crossed Princess Charlotte's Bay, and steered at half to three-quarters of a mile within the reef: soon after noon it fell calm, and we anchored under the lee of Pelican Island, and landed upon it to examine an appearance of turtle marks on the sand; they were, however, found to be of an old date.
This island, which does not measure more than two-thirds of a mile in circumference, is surrounded by a considerable reef, and is remarkable for two clumps of trees upon it, that, standing separately, give the appearance, at a distance, of its being two distinct islets. It is, like all the islets near it, little better than a sandy key. ​While I was employed in leveling the theodolite, the gentlemen directed their steps to a flight of pelicans that was seen collected upon the beach; at their approach the old birds took wing and left their unfledged young, to the number of eighteen or twenty, waddling about the sand, all of which were killed and skinned, before we embarked, for the sake of their white down. On the islet three very nearly-constructed natives' huts were observed, that, from their appearance, and the very recent state of the fish-bones and turtle-shells scattered about, had been lately occupied. The reef is of circular shape; the surface is formed principally of a rotten, crumbling coral rock, and was destitute of shells or any animal production, except the beche de mer: of which the black sort, ("batoo,") appeared the most abundant.
Among the bearings obtained from this station was that of the highest summit of Flinders's Group, which bore S. 61° 26′ E. (magnetic), and, as a connected bearing, was of considerable importance to the survey.
The day was too far advanced to make further progress with any advantage; we, therefore, remained until the following morning,11. when we steered N.N.W., but were soon impeded by a very extensive reef, m, that crossed our course, ​trending to the N.E. Wishing to ascertain its extent to seaward, as well as to pass round its windward side, We steered along its south-eastern edge; and, after proceeding for some time, first in a N.E., then a North, and afterwards, in a N.N.W. direction, found ourselves running through a narrow channel formed by another considerable reef, l, to the eastward, and lying in a parallel direction with m: the breadth of this pass, or channel, varied between one and two miles. At nine o'clock, having run about ten miles, a break appeared in the innermost reef, m, through which we made an attempt to pass. As we approached it our soundings quickly decreased, yet still we hoped to effect our object; but, suddenly shoaling the water to five fathoms, and, at the next heave, to ten feet and a half, with the coral rocks almost grazing the vessel's bottom, the helm was put down;—fortunately she stayed, and we escaped the danger. There was every appearance of a termination of the reef a few miles further to the north-east, but the glare of the sun was so deceptious that I preferred returning by the way we came; and having a leading fresh wind, we were, by noon, steering between the south-west end of the reef m and the woody islands 2 and 3 of Claremont Isles.
Between this and Cape Sidmouth, several ​reefs were, seen to seaward that we had not noticed last year. In passing the cape, we kept nearer to the sandy islet 7 than before, and had not less water than seven fathoms.
12.The next morning, having passed the night under Night Island, we resumed our course and steered round Cape Direction, with the intention of passing to windward of the long reef, f; but being prevented by its extending too much to the eastward to allow of our weathering it, we bore up, and, passing to the eastward of Piper's Islands, and of reef, l, anchored under Haggerston's Island.
As I did not intend running father than Sunday Island for my next anchorage, we did not weigh the following day13. until we had visited the island, and obtained a meridional altitude for its latitude and sight for the time-keeper. It is about a mile and a half in circumference, and forms a high rock of steep ascent; its windward side is clothed with a stunted brush, but the lee, or north-west, side is tolerably well wooded, and is fronted by a sandy beach, on which the traces of natives' fire-places, scattered with fish-bones and turtle shells, were foun in all directions. A considerable coral-reef extends to the northward, having some dry sandy keys at its north extremity. An extensive view of ​the neighbouring reefs and islands were obtained from the summit, particularly of the reefs, n and o, and of the deep water channel between them.
Our next anchorage was under Sunday Island; and, on the 14th,14. we proceeded outside the Bird Isles, and between two coral reefs, v and w, that appeared last year to be connected. Several reefs were also noticed to seaward, that had escaped our observation last year, but they are all of small extent, and on the greater number there is a dry bank of sand, which on some is bare, whilst others are covered with bushes and small trees.
As the day was too far advanced to permit us to pass round Cape York before night, we anchored in the afternoon under Cairncross Island, and spent the evening on shore. This island is low and wooded like the other, and is not more than a mile in circumference. It is thickly covered with bushes and trees, among which Mr. Cunningham found a great many plants that interested him, particularly the bulbous roots of a species of pancratium, and some large specimens of minusops kauki in fruit, besides which he observed a remarkable tree, which he has described in his journal by the name of guletarda octandra. "It is a strong luxuriant tree, having a stem six feet diameter, whose ​base is much like the spurred bulb of a tropical fig." (Cunningham MSS.)
The island is situated at the north-west end of the reef, which is two miles and a half long and one mile broad, and composed like that of Pelican Island, of dead coral hardened by the weather, and cemented by its own calcareous deposit into masses of compact rocks, which, being heaped up by the surf, form a key that probably the high-tide scarcely ever covers The interior is occupied by a shoal lagoon, in which, although not more than two feet deep, our people saw a great variety of fish, and among them a shark five feet long, which, notwithstanding there was scarcely sufficient water for it to float in, contrived to escape. A few shells of the voluta ethiopica, and some clams (chama gigas) were found, but neither sort was plentiful. The natives, as appeared from their traces, occasionally visit the island: our people found some deserted turtles' nests, and Mr, Cunningham saw a pigeon that appeared to be new; it was of large size, and of black and white plumage: besides this, no other bird was seen.
We now began for the first time to feel the effect of our accident at Port Bowen, for the tide, setting against the wind, caused a short swell, in which the cutter strained so much ​that she made two inches and a half of water per hour.
At noon the next day15. we rounded Cape York; and, as we had last year taken the route to the northward of Wednesday Island, we now steered round the south side of Prince of Wales' Islands through Endeavour Strait; and, passing the night under one of the Possession Islands, No. 2, the next day16. reached Booby Island, off which we anchored. On our course to the westward of Cape Cornwall, and across the line of shoals that extend from it to Wallis Isles, we had not less water than four fathoms.
In the afternoon we landed on Booby Island, and at night procured turtles, and about a thousand eggs.
On the summit of the island, or rather the rock, several piles of stones were observed, that had been heaped up by the crews of the various ships passing by, as relics of their visit: among other notices of a similar nature, we found a board indicating the safe passage through the strait of the ship Sea-Flower, which our leg-book informed us left Port Jackson on the 21st of last May; and from the memorandum on the board we found that she took the outer passage, entered Torres Strait at Murray's Island, and ​arrived off Booby Island, after a voyage of twenty-two days.
A good opportunity was here offered, by comparing our voyage with that of the Sea-Flower, of proving the superiority of the in-shore route: the Mermaid left Port Jackson on the 12th July, and passed Booby Island on the 16th August, which is an interval of thirty-five days; from this fifteen must be deducted for the delays occasioned by the survey; viz., at Port Bowen two day, at Endeavour River nine days, at Lizard Island, Cape Flinders, Haggerston's Island, and the Possession Islands, one day each; this leaves twenty days for our passage, being two days shorter than the Sea-Flowers'. This comparison, therefore, is in favour of the in-shore route. But it is not only superior to the passage without the reefs, from its being shorter, there are also other advantages: the principal of which are, that the weather is more generally fine; the sea is always perfectly smooth; and wood or water may be procured upon various parts of the coast: with only common attention there is no risk; and, however laboriously the day may be spent, the night is spent without disturbing the crew; for safe and good anchorage may be taken up every night under the lee of an islet or a reef, ​which in the event of bad weather may be retained as long as is requisite or convenient. No time is lost by the delay, for the anchor may be dropped in the ship's immediate track; and, if the cargo consists of live animals, such as horses, cattle, or sheep, grass may be obtained for them from the islands near the anchorage.
In the outer passage, the sea is strewed with numerous reefs, many yet unknown, which render the navigation at night extremely dangerous; and if, on approaching the part where it is intended to enter the reefs, the weather should be thick, and the sun to clouded at noon to procure an observation for the latitude, the navigator is placed in a very anxious and a very unenviable situation; for the currents are so strong, that the position of the ship is by no means sufficiently known, to risk running to leeward to make the reefs. The ensuring night must, therefore, in all probability be passed in the greatest uncertainty, and in the vicinity of extensive coral reefs.
* ↑ The boomerang, is a very formidable weapon; it is a short, carved piece of heavy wood, and is propelled through the air by the hand in so skillful a manner, that the thrower alone knows where it will fall. It is generally thrown against the wind, and takes a rapid rotary motion. It is used by the natives with success in killing the kangaroo, and is, I believe, more a hunting than a warlike weapon. The size varies from eighteen to thirty inches in length, and from two to three inches broad. The shape is that of an obtuse angle rather than a crescent: one in my possession is twenty-six inches long, its greatest breadth two inches and a half, thickness half an inch, and the angle formed from the centre is 140°. Boomerang is the Port Jackson term for this weapon, and may be retained for want of a more descriptive name. There is a drawing of it by M. Lesueur in Plate xxii. (Fig. 6,) of Peron's Atlas; it is there described by the name of sabre à ricocheet. This plate may, by the way, be referred to for drawings of the great number of the weapons used by the Port Jackson natives, all of which, excepting the identlcal boomerang, are very well delineated. M. Lesueur has, however, failed in his sabre à ricochet.
* ↑ Flinders, vol. ii. p. 38.
* ↑ Flinders, vol. ii p. 51.
* ↑ Idem, vol. ii. p. 71.
* ↑ When this sheet was in the press, an account was published in one of the daily newspaper, (Morning Herald, 3rd of March, 1825,) recording the discovery of some low coral islands and reefs by the ship Avon, Sept. 18, 1823 in latitude 19° 40′ S., longitude 158° 6′ E.