# Victoria: with a description of its principal cities, Melbourne and Geelong/Chapter 1

CHAPTER I.
"Time was when dreary solitude was here;  When night-black woods, unvisited by man,  In howling conflict wrestled with the winds.  But now, the storm rolling, in mingled life  Is heard, and like a roaring furnace fills
 With living sound the airy reach of miles!
Thou hugest region of the quartered globe.  Where all the climates dwell, and Nature moves  In majesty,—hereafter when the tides  Of circumstance have rolled their changing years,  What empires may be born of thee!"
Montgomery.
AS mentioned in the Introductory Chapter, a penal settlement was attempted to be formed within Port Philip Bay in 1803, and that such, after a short time, was abandoned. In 1826 another attempt was made by Captain Wetherall, but after two years this was also abandoned. No permanent settlement was formed within the province until the year 1834, when the Messrs. Henty, of Launceston, Tasmania, formed a whaling station at Portland Bay, to the westward of Port Philip Heads. This was the first regular settlement by white men in Victoria. In 1835 Mr. John Batman arrived in Geelong, which
Melbourne
​is situated at the head of a deep bay within the Heads to the westward. Mr. Batman formed an association with fifteen gentlemen of Hobart Town for stocking and settling the country, for which purpose he purchased from the natives 600,000 acres of land, near to where he first landed. The consideration for this territory consisted of goods to the value of £200. In the same year another association was formed at Launceston for a similar purpose, headed by Mr. J. P. Faulkner, who landed at the Falls of the Yarra, the present site of Melbourne.
Mr. Batman, considering such to be an encroachment on his possessions, appealed to Sir Charles Arthur, Governor of Tasmania, but the New South Wales Government, on hearing of the dispute, disallowed all transactions with the natives, sending down a magistrate to assert her Majesty's rights, and to assume the government, and thus the country became annexed as a district of New South Wales.
In 1837 the settlement was visited by the Governor. Sir Richard Bourke, who sanctioned the plan of a town on the site chosen by Mr. Faulkner, and named it Melbourne, which, being divided into town lots, was disposed of. In 1839 C. J. La Trobe, Esq., was appointed Superintendent. In 1851 the district became a separate colony, and was named Victoria, and Mr. La Trobe appointed Lieutenant-Governor. In 1853 he tendered his resignation, and was succeeded by Sir Charles Hotham, K.C.B., who arrived in Hobson's Bay on the 21st of June, 1854. ​In consequence of its unfortunate situation, as the dependency of a dependency for the long period of fifteen years, the development and civilization of the district were grievously retarded. The Government at that period were, in fact, little better than a system of police. Scarcely anything was done to open up the country for settlement, and apparently the Government never even took steps to gain information respecting its physical features or natural resources. At all events, these are not described in any document to which we have had access, and at this moment no work exists in which such information is published.
Little did the purchasers in 1837 imagine that in fifteen years each of those building lots (a quarter of an acre in extent, and obtained at an upset price of £12) would be a fortune in itself, selling from £300 to £400 a foot. Such a change seems fabulous; it is, nevertheless, true, and by the last Gazette notifying the intended sale of some of the Government reserve, the upset price was £300 per foot. We cannot now enter into a particular account of the growth and present extent of the province, but must confine ourselves to the capital, &c. Our final chapter, however, will contain a general outline of the colony, with a geographical description, and latest accounts as to statistics and produce.
Ships bound to Port Philip, on entering Bass' Straits, coming from the westward, make Cape Otway to the left, or King's Island on the right, while ​those from the east make Flinder's Island to the left, or Wilson's Promontory to the right. Some years ago it was considered difficult and dangerous navigating to this port, but it having now become the most important in the southern hemisphere, particular attention is being paid to remove these difficulties. Lighthouses have been built on every available point, buoys laid down on the shoals, good pilots always cruising about, waiting inward-bound ships, and a very valuable book of sailing directions published by Mr. Charles Ferguson, Port and Harbour Master.
Although within the Heads there are three bays and ports. Swan Bay, Geelong Bay, and Hobson's Bay, the whole is more generally designated as Port Philip. The entrance is narrow and intricate without a pilot, it being but three miles across, and, from the effect of contrary currents and tides, full of shoals and sand-banks. On the western Head, Point Lonsdale, are two lighthouses, so situated as to serve for landmarks for the entrance by day or night. The first appearance on entering this large bay, which is thirty miles in length and thirty-six in extreme breadth, is not very imposing, the land adjoining the Heads being scrubby and barren. Near the lighthouses is seen a small hamlet, with a telegraph and signal station. As you enter the bay, and it opens before you, the surrounding country assumes a richer shade, disclosing some fine woodland scenery, extending towards the interior. To the ​right is seen Arthur's Seat, Mounts Martha and Eliza, striking objects as landmarks, and relieving the monotonous view of the shore. Away to the left extends the Bay of Corio, passing Swan Bay; at the head of the former is the large and flourishing city of Geelong, the second in Victoria; passing onwards, you enter the limits of Hobson's Bay. The first glance on leaving the thickly wooded country, and the seemingly barren waste which is spread before you, is most unfavourable. An extensive mud swamp and tea-tree scrub seem to surround you, till the fog, in which it is constantly enveloped during the early part of the day, has cleared away, and you see the very beautiful city of Melbourne, not two miles distant, built on a gentle acclivity, well relieved by the wooded backgrounds stretched out before you. You can trace the meanderings of the Yarra-yarra as it winds through the scrub, and partly encircles the city in a tortuous course, making six miles, which by railway is barely two.
Though to a stranger this swamp appears unsightly, and apt to lead one to form an unfavourable opinion, yet it is but fair to expect, drawing an inference from the rapid growth of this wonderful city, that a very short time will see it form an additional ornament, as it becomes converted into blooming gardens, rich fields, or beautiful villas. On the right of Hobson's Bay extends a long deep beach of fine sand, and in the interior, as the undulating form of the shore allows, are to be seen the ​smiling towns of Brighton, St. Kilda, and Sandridge. By the latter are jetties from the railway, built on piles, so as to enable several vessels to lie alongside and discharge or take in cargo. These, however, are by no means adequate for a thousandth part of the traffic of this port, and innumerable lighters and tug steamers are employed. This side of the bay has many drawbacks for the formation of good and permanent wharfs, the shore being of loose light sand, and a heavy rolling swell and sea nine months in the year settling along the eastern coast from the prevalence of western winds and reflux of the tides. Sandridge, as its name imports, is built entirely on sand, separated from Melbourne by the low ground which at one time was periodically under water.
It is surprising to see what art and perseverance have done in so short a time. Not only are there several good shops, stores, and hotels, but some comfortable houses, all which have had to be built on piles sunk in the sand. A very capital causeway, two miles long, runs into the heart of the city; and further through the swamp are railroad trains leaving and returning every half-hour throughout the day.
Of St. Kilda and Brighton we will speak hereafter; return we now to Hobson's Bay. About four miles across, on the opposite side, is the fast rising town of Williamstown; close along the shore is the entrance to the Yarra-yarra winding to the city; the bay is of circular form, with good and safe anchorage, although, ​from the wide range of sea formed by the inlet to Geelong, the westerly winds blow very fresh, and row-boats do not then venture much out From two to three hundred sail are constantly at anchor within the bay from every part of the world, and some of the largest and most beautiful ships can there be seen, presenting a most pleasing proof of the immense trade going on in the colony,—many steamers from Sydney, Hobart Town, Launceston, and New Zealand; also fresh arrivals are hourly entering the port, and departures leaving, deeply laden.
On the western point of Hobson's Bay is a lighthouse, alongside which a large mole is being made, extending more than three hundred yards into deep water; this is the Terminus of the Mount Alexander and the Melbourne and Geelong Railways. It is intended to continue this embankment along the shore facing Williamstown, so as to have sufficient space for vessels to lie alongside—a much more feasible undertaking than the pile wharf at Sandridge, as it is what sailors call on a weather shore, with a rocky foundation. The railway from hence to the city, though three times as long as the line on the opposite side of the bay, will be more available for trade, from the permanent security of the wharf, and its connexion by railway with the interior. The hitherto barren and naked appearance of Williamstown and its vicinity is fast changing into streets, pretty suburban cottages, and gardens; and an extensive plain spreads away some forty miles, ​extending alongside of the bay until you reach Geelong; one portion of it alone, Laverton, the station of Mr. Thompson, running out some distance into the bay, is thickly wooded; the remainder seems a boundless arid plain, though, in point of fact, it is not so, and several thousand sheep and cattle are annually fed on it; the landscape is, however, relieved by the high hills of Ude Youang far away in the distance. The railroad to Geelong runs through this plain, which is considered one of the best natural levels as yet known to engineers, and is now open for traffic.
There are two entrances to the city—by a steamer, up the Yarra-yarra, which passes every half-hour, calling at each newly arrived ship, or by the Sandridge Railway, which, though the most expeditious, has the drawback of a second shipment from the boat to the railway pier. Ere these pages come before the public, a third route, by Williamstown, will be open, which, when the largest vessels can wharf alongside, will be the most preferred. The Terminus of each railway brings you into the busy part of the town, and there are few cities in the world present a more bustling appearance to the stranger than Melbourne, for in laying out the city great care was taken that the locality intended for the wharfs, and the grand mercantile thoroughfare facing them, should be sufficiently extensive, and, running along a dead level opening on the river, gives you a view of the whole at a glance. Entering the city by the river, the view —if you overlook the scrubby swamp around ​you—is most pleasing; it is, however, rather a tedious circuit, from the care required to guide the vessel through its narrow waters, and from the innumerable vessels passing and repassing.
The first object to call your attention is the Gasometer, a large, fine, cut stone building, on the banks of the river. Rising above is seen Bateman's Hill and Signal Station. As you touch the wharf, you find yourself on an extensive platform built alongside, or within one of the two or three docks lately built. Vessels of 200 to 300 tons can go up the river. Some very large and well-built warehouses line the street before you. In a small, open square in the centre, facing the river, is the Custom-house, which, though at present in an unfinished state, will, no doubt, form one of the ornamental buildings of the city. As mentioned above, a wide street divides the warehouses from the wharfs and river; a little up the latter is a shoal rapid or sudden fall, from which point the water is fresh, and no vessels go over it, though on the upper river small steamers ply; further on over it is the pretty bridge of the railway, close to the Terminus; it has a very good effect, opening at right angles to the quays in Flinders-street, and facing one of the largest thoroughfares in Elizabeth-street, proceeding up which, Collins-street (the Oxford-street of Melbourne) opens to you, running east and west, into which it is divided. It is a very fine street; some of the best shops and hotels are in it, besides three magnificent ​banking establishments: the tout ensemble of this street is very pretty, the centre, dipping in a curve, rises gradually to both ends. To the east, along the low, level country, is seen the bay and the sea, and to the west the wooded park of Richmond, the Pleasance of the city, near which end the houses are of a different style—large, handsome, private buildings, principally occupied by the medical profession. Great Bourke-street and La Trobe-street run parallel to Flinders and Collins-street—streets of considerable magnitude, intersected at right angles by William's, Queen's, Elizabeth, and Swanston-street; these are again intersected by others of minor importance, of which our space will not permit us entering into a particular description.
As the indefatigable labours of the Corporation proceed, these streets assume a different appearance every week; no expense or skill seems to be spared in improving and beautifying them; all the largest streets are now completed, with a wide flag sideway, and paved, open shores to carry off the rain, which frequently falls very heavily, besides which, a large underground shore is is progress of construction. All the streets are macadamized on the most improved principle.
We may here relate an instance of the rapid growth of this noble city. The author visited it in June, 1853, landing in the mud by the river side, and, finding it impossible to get through it, chartered a dray to take him to Collins-street, and not being ​prepared for such an undertaking, half of his business in the city was left undone; the streets were so full of heaps of clay, stones, and mud, and no pathway, he was compelled to return literally bootless. Nothing of the above is now to be seen, even in the latest formed streets, so exceedingly energetic and expeditious are the operations of the municipal body. Within the last year gas has been introduced, and all the streets, shops, and several private houses are now lit with it, a double row of lamps giving a most pleasing feature to this wide-streeted city.
The municipality extends over 9000 acres, 3000 of which are portioned off into public parks, squares, and reserves for national purposes. The suburbs contain about 5000 acres, much of which is private property, or daily becoming so as it is sold by Government. East and North Melbourne, Sandridge, Emerald Hill, and St. Kilda, are included in this municipality, though, from the increasing population, and the extensive buildings of the three latter, they will soon be formed into independent bodies. The suburbs are East Collingwood, Richmond, and Prarhan, and further off, or closely connected with the city, are the pretty villages of Hawthorn, Flemington, Brunswick, Footscray, and Brighton, in Hobson's Bay.
The population in January, 1855, within the limits of the municipality and suburbs, was upwards of 80,000, and the exact position lately determined is 37° 49' south latitude, and 14° 58' east longitude.
​Amongst the many buildings claiming notice is the Town Hall in Swanston-street, a large and imposing structure of dark blue cut stone; the interior is equally imposing, and fitted up at considerable expense. The Exhibition Building in William-street is one of considerable beauty, not less remarkable for its artistic design—a minute model of the Crystal Palace—than for the rapidity with which it was constructed. It was open as an exhibition for the works of art and industry about to be sent to the Exhibition of Paris, for about two months. It is now used for many purposes, such as concerts, balls, bazaars, and flower-shows, and, we trust, will long remain an ornament to the city, and an interesting souvenir of 1854.
We find the following societies within the city, each of which has a large and well-adapted building for the particular object of the Institute, being well supported, tending much to the advancement of literature and art:—The University Council and Educational Board; the Chamber of Commerce, with a very splendid hall, in Collins-street; the Philosophical Society; the Victorian Institute, for the advancement of Arts and Sciences; the Mechanics' Institute; the Philharmonic Society; the Benevolent Asylum; the Lunatic Asylum; the Emigrants' Aid Society and Immigrants' Home: these are under the control and direction of independent and separate councils, composed of the leading members of the state and colony.
​Two National Schools, at the east end of Lonsdale-street, are fine buildings; and the Hospital, recently enlarged, is also an extensive structure. Near the Exhibition Building is a massive range, comprising the Government offices and Courts of Law, close to which is the Electric Telegraph office and Time Ball Tower. In Bourke-street, to the left, is St. Patrick's Hall, not yet completed, where the Legislative Assembly and Council meet. Almost every Christian religious denomination possesses several places of worship, to nearly all of which are attached excellent schools. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, dedicated to St Frances, in Elizabeth-street, is the largest The Anglo-Episcopalian Cathedral of St. James, in Collins-street, is simply a parish church in architectural beauty, whilst the Church of St Paul's, in Swanston-street, and St Mark's, in Collingwood, are both grand and imposing, more particularly the latter. An University, of noble design and considerable extent, is nearly completed, on a commanding site, in North Melbourne. On a Government reserve, in Swanston-street, has been lately completed a magnificent building of white sandstone, as a Public Library and National Gallery, near to which is the site for a new Government House, now commenced, and, judging from the approved plan, it will, without doubt, be the finest building in the south. There are some very fine large hotels in Melbourne, fitted up with every regard to luxury and comfort. In the centre of Collins-street is also ​a large building, used as a Club House; and not the least pleasing feature of the city is the kind consideration and hospitality shown by its members to visitors.
Large and massive stores of dark-blue stone arrest the gaze in every direction; they form a conspicuous part in a view of the city, and suggest, far more tellingly than words, the weight and importance of the great commercial interest of Victoria. These continue to be built, demonstrating the hope entertained, that Melbourne will maintain her position as the commercial metropolis of the south. Melbourne is tolerably supplied with places of public amusement, adapted for the tastes of all classes. The Theatre Royal, in Bourke-street, can vie in extent and interior arrangement with any in London. Here the opera was brought out this season, with Catherine Hayes as prima donna, and passed off with considerable éclat. The Queen's Theatre, in Queen-street, possesses a good local company; and Astley's Amphitheatre is an exceedingly well-arranged and tastefully decorated structure, bearing comparison with its prototype of London renown.
There are many minor resorts of pleasure and amusement in the city, which demand no particular notice. It would not, however, be just, when treating of the amusements of a great capital, to overlook the Cremorne Gardens, which will repay a visit even in the daytime. At night, during the summer months, entertainments are given similar in character to ​those of Vauxhall and Cremorne Gardens in London, where dancing for the million, and the terrible descents amid coruscations of fireworks of "Joe il Diavolo" attract numerous visitors.
Not the least singular sight in Melbourne, and one which soonest attracts the attention of new arrivals, is the long procession of water-carts in early morn en route in Elizabeth-street to the temporary waterworks near the Hobson's Bay Railway Terminus. Here a private company supply water at so much per cask, which is distributed throughout the city and its suburbs, at prices ranging according to distance. A more complete system of supplying water will, shortly come into operation, as a capacious reservoir has been constructed on the eastern hill, which will be supplied from the Government Waterworks, at the eastern end of Flinders-street. And great will be the improvement on the old system; for the time is not far distant when the city will be amply supplied from the other great reservoir now being constructed at Yan Yean, eighteen miles from Melbourne, which will derive an unlimited supply of fresh pure water from the river Plenty. As the elevation of this reservoir is considerably above the level of the most lofty buildings in the city, the water can be laid on to the upper storeys of houses. Melbourne requires to be drenched with water to keep down the dust raised by the increasing traffic in its streets, and an attempt is being made to effect this with the "down-with-the-dust" carts.
​Melbourne is a corporate city, and boasts of a mayor, aldermen, and councillors; a town-clerk with a large staff of minor officials, the efficiency of which is shown in the good arrangement of the streets, well metalled, curbed, and side paths in course of being paved, so as to bear comparison with any modern city.
The immediate environs of Melbourne in every way claim a favourable notice. The Richmond Paddock, in particular, is a delightful retreat from the heat, dust, and business of the city. Nature has made it a beautiful locality, and all that is now required is the hand of man to complete what nature has designed. The planting of a few more trees, and the opening of a gravel walk along the margin of the Yarra, would greatly tend to enhance the natural beauties of the Paddock. A commissioner of public parks, &c., has been appointed, and to him we look for their improvement.
The Melbourne Cricket Club hold their meetings in the Paddock, and have erected a spacious club-house. Upon grand days, such as a match with the Geelong and other clubs, the scene is very animated from the large concourse of ladies; and it is difficult to realize the fact that we are some 12,000 miles distant in a colony but a few years in existence.
Opposite the Paddock, across the Yarra, are the Botanical Gardens, a favourite place of resort of the Melbournites on Sundays. The gardens are laid out ​with great taste, and shrubs and trees of almost every clime may be seen in full bloom and vigour. The large lake attached to the gardens swarms with wild fowl of every description, which have here a secure retreat from the hands of man. There are many other places in the vicinity of Melbourne to which the citizens resort for pleasure and amusement.
St. Kilda, on the shore of Hobson's Bay, is a favourite marine residence, and on Sundays the beach is frequented by hundreds, indulging in that dreamy idleness which is so delightful on the sea shore in fine weather.
Sandridge, too, is patronized to a considerable extent, the railway affording facilities of transit, which in a few minutes places Hobson's Bay and its magnificent fleet of shipping in view. This railway claims more than a passing notice, being the first one in full operation in the Australian colonies. Its inauguration, honoured with the presence of the Lieutenant-Governor, took place on the 12th September, 1854.
Three daily papers are published in Melbourne, the Argus, Morning Herald, and Age. Weekly journals occasionally appear. An illustrated one, such as the " Illustrated London News," is very creditably got up. The Argus has confessedly the most numerous circulation of any journal in these colonies, and forms in fact a peculiar feature in the idiosyncrasy of Melbourne. A Melbourne Punch has ​been originated, and appears to be carried on with considerable talent.
To the northward is the site chosen for the Carlton Gardens, lately inclosed, and from the design which it is the intention of the municipality to carry out, will in a few years equal in beauty some of those near London. About nine miles from the city is the very picturesque and beautiful township, Heidelberg, where there are several well-built residences and neat country-seats with rich and tastefully arranged grounds, equal to many of the same character in England.
We would next conduct our readers to Toorak, the viceregal residence. Leaving the city by Prince's bridge, over the Yarra, Emerald-hill to the right, and Prince's-bridge Barracks to the left, we pass the large reserve for Victoria Park; a good road leads you through a wooded plain by the fast rising suburb of Prarhan, four miles to the entrance gate. The grounds contain 150 acres, half encircling which is the Yarra; no expense has been spared to render them, and the place itself, worthy the residence of her Majesty's representative. The house, though of no architectural pretensions beyond that of a handsome modern mansion, is large and commodious, and every addition made that skill could devise, or wealth effect. The drive from Melbourne is exceedingly pretty, from the number of very handsome places you pass on either side of the road. In returning, a cross road leads through Prarhan to ​St. Kilda, before alluded to; and six miles further, over a splendid macadamized road, we arrive at the beautiful sea bathing-place of Brighton, delightfully situated on the southern extremity of Hobson's Bay. The whole country between these suburbs we have attempted to describe has been subdivided into suburban lots, and sold. Handsome residences of every style of architecture abound, from the Turkish cupola to the Italian villa, the cottage ornèe, the Gothic, and Elizabethan. Good roads intersect the district, and public conveyances are constantly passing to and from the city. Each season, not only the city itself but its vicinity for many miles, assumes a change consequent upon the increasing wealth of the inhabitants, which would appear marvellous in description.