# How and What to Grow in a Kitchen Garden of One Acre (10th Ed)/Cantaloupe, or Musk Melon

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CANTALOUPE, OR MUSK MELON.
These are universal favorites, and too frequently are not grown by the kitchen gardener, who labors under the idea that they must have a sandy soil in some particularly favored section, and that they require great skill to grow them. If a variety suited to your soil is planted and given the same amount of attention and careful cultivation as the rest of the garden receives, melons may be had in abundance from the first of August till frost comes in the fall, though when the first cool nights come they lose their fine flavor. If the garden has a southern slope, that will be the place for the melons and other warmth-loving vegetables; but they will do almost as well in the level field. The rows of hills should be five feet apart and the hills at least four feet apart in the row, to allow the vines plenty of room to run. It is a good plan to make the hills break joint, as they ​will then cover the ground to better advantage. When the line is set, a hole should be scraped with the hoe or shovel where the hill is to stand; this should be six inches deep and about twelve inches in diameter. Compost is then shoveled in, two rows being done at once; two or three shovelsful are put in each hill. The dirt thrown out in making the hole is then carefully made into a hill over the compost by using a sharp stool rake, care being taken to remove all stones and hard lumps of dirt. The seed is then scattered on the top of the hill, generally from twenty to thirty seeds being planted in each hill, that there may be an ample supply for the insects and yet leave a good stand. They should be thinned out gradually, extra ones being left in until they are at least a foot in length, as the insect pests are both numerous and destructive.
The hills should not be made until it is time to plant the seed, or they will get packed and too hard for the young roots to penetrate. When the seed has been planted on the hill it should be covered with about half an inch of fine soil, sifted and crumbled on with the fingers, and the whole top patted down with the palm of the hand. The seed should be planted as soon as the ground is thoroughly warm in the spring and when the temperature does not fall below sixty degrees at night. The melons will commence ripening about August 1st, and two rows across the garden should yield from one half-bushel to one bushel daily if the variety planted is of the small Netted Gem or Jenny Lind type. These small, round melons, of the size of a croquet ball, are very ​prolific, and if carefully grown, the quality is very fine. Some prefer the larger melons, which fill the basket more quickly, but in my experience the small ones have been so much more prolific that the yield has been almost double in bulk on the same amount of ground. The melon rows should be gone over early every morning while ripening, as they should not be allowed to become yellow on the vines. The quality deteriorates very rapidly when allowed to ripen in the hot sun, so that they should be picked while still green. The right stage for picking can readily be told by examining the point where the stem joins the melon; as soon as the stem begins to crack away from the melon slightly, or when the little drops of red juice form round the base of the stem, it is time to pick the melon. When picked, they should be put in a cool cellar or spring house until wanted for the table.
Seed may be saved from the largest and finest-flavored melons; but if your garden is on heavy soil, or if two or three varieties are grown near together, it is best to procure fresh seed from some melon-growing district every year.
The ground between the hills should be cultivated frequently, as long as it can be done without interfering with the vine; the soil in the hills should be kept loose and drawn up around the vines with the hoe. When the vines have grown too long to allow the passage of the cultivator, the patch can be kept clean by pulling out the large weeds by hand, which can be done very quickly after a good rain. The dense shade caused by the luxuriant vines will cause ​the small and low-growing weeds to rot off. While the vines are still small, it will be necessary to dust them every few mornings with road dust, soot, plaster or slug shot, to destroy the flies and striped bugs that infest them. When healthy young vines suddenly wilt and droop in the hot sun without apparent cause, dig around the root of the plant with the fingers or a stick until the grub is found which has cut the plant off underground. He should be searched for and “made an example of” as soon as the first vine is discovered to be flagging, or he will proceed to eat the whole hill.
VARIETIES OF MUSK MELONS.
Burpee’s Netted Gem.—The finest as well as the earliest of all the small-fruited varieties that I have tried, and where a variety of melons is not particularly desired, it will furnish a generous supply of fine-flavored fruit from the first ripening until killed by frost. It is a very good keeper, retaining its good quality for nearly a week after picking, if kept in a cool collar. This is often a valuable characteristic in the latter part of summer, as several warm days furnish two or three baskets in the cellar, which keep up the supply if the warm spell is followed by cool or cloudy days, when the melons on the vines do not ripen readily. This variety is thickly netted, the meat is thick and solid, and they run as even in shape and symmetry as a set of croquet balls, which they also resemble in point of size.
EMERALD GEM CANTALOUPE.
16¼-lb MONTREAL NUTMEG MELON—ENGRAVED FROM A PHOTOGRAPH.
Montreal Green Nutmeg.—A handsome variety, in which large size, regular shape and fine appearance are combined with thick flesh of the finest flavor. In shape they are nearly round, slightly flattened at the ends, very deeply ribbed and heavily netted. These melons have been grown to over thirty pounds in weight, and will average ten to twelve pounds in ordinary culture.