# Embroidery and Fancy Work/Knitting

KNITTING.
It is almost impossible so to describe the way in which the knitting stitch is formed as to enable the worker to teach herself, and fortunately it is almost as needless as it is difficult. Everyone has a friend who, in a few minutes will teach the first steps in this fascinating occupation.
There are two ways of knitting, known respectively as German or English knitting. The difference lies merely in the manner of holding the thread. The German is by far the easier, and enables one to knit more quickly and evenly, while, at the same time, it is far less fatiguing than the English method.
To knit in the German way you must hold your yarn or thread as if for crochet, and form the stitch by putting your right hand needle through the first stitch on the needle, catch up the thread, which is held in place on the left fore finger and draw it through the stitch. In order to seam or purl, put the thread over the needle in the left hand; put the right hand needle back of the thread, and into the stitch from the outside; catch the thread on the right hand needle and draw through.
Decreasing is done by knitting two stitches together, or else by slipping a stitch, that is, taking it off the needle without knitting, and knitting a stitch, and slipping the unknitted stitch over the last knitted one. Sometimes two stitches are decreased at once, by ​slipping one, knitting two together, and slipping the unknitted stitch over the two knit together.
Increasing, or making a stitch is done by throwing the thread once round the needle, and in the next row knitting it as an ordinary stitch.
To knit a round, knit with four needles, cast on—let us say, twenty-two stitches on the first needle, insert a second needle in the last stitch of the first, and cast on twenty stitches; proceed in the same way with a third needle, casting on eighteen only; then knit the two extra stitches on the first needle on to the last—this makes twenty stitches upon each needle, and thus completes the circle.
To Cast off, knit two stitches and with the left hand needle slip the first stitch over the second; continue to the end of the row.
Picking up a stitch is done by taking up a thread, and knitting it as a stitch.
The following abbreviations are those generally used in directions for knitting,
| K | 1 | Knit one plain. |
| P | | Purl or seam. |
| M | 1 | Increase or make one. |
| D | 1 | Decrease one. |
| Sl | 1 | Slip one. |
| K | 2 t | Knit two together. |
| T | T O or Tho | Throw thread over. |
| T | K | Twisted knitted stitch. |
| T | P | Twisted purl knitted. |
A star shows where a repeat of the pattern is begun.
Garter stitch is plain knitting back and forth; many pretty afghans are knit in this way, in long strips, the strips being afterwards crocheted together. A very pretty one can be made of double zephyr wool, four of the strips being an olive green, and three knit in Roman stripes. The stripes are joined with black and yellow ​wool. The plain strips are forty stitches, the Roman ones fifty stitches wide, It is finished at either end by a fringe of the different colors used in the several stripes. For the Roman stripe, begin with * eighteen rows of red, one of white, one of red, one of yellow, one of blue, one of red, one of blue, one of white, eighteen of blue, one of white, one of red, one of yellow, one of blue, one of red, one of blue, one of white, eighteen of black, one of white, one of red, one of yellow, one of blue, one of red, one of white, one of bine, eighteen of white, one of blue, one of white, one of red, one of yellow, one of blue, one of red, one of white, repeat from *.
A very comfortable and substantial shawl is a square knit in garter stitch, and bordered with one of the knit edgings given a little further on. Germantown wool is very nice for this purpose.
Brioche is an extremely pretty and useful stitch. It is very elastic, and looks the same on both sides. Cast on any even number of stitches, and with two needles work backward and forward as follows:
1st row: Over (at the edge this is done by simply putting the right hand needle under the wool), slip one, as if about to purl it, knit one. Repeat from the beginning.
2nd row: Over, slip one, as if about to purl, knit two together. Repeat.
Every subsequent row is like the second. In casting off, look upon the double stitch—the two usually knit together—as one. In narrowing in this pattern, knit together the three stitches—the slipped stitch and the double stitch—which form one rib, and on the next row knit the stitch thus made with the double stitch preceding it.
German brioche is another form of this stitch. In knitting it, cast on any number of stitches in threes All the rows are knit thus: Slip one, as if about to purl ​over, knit two together. The over or made stitch must always be slipped and the decreased stitch and the slipped stitch of the previous row knitted together.
SOFA CUSHION.
A pretty sofa cushion or hassock is knit in German Brioche as follows:
Three skeins yellow, two white, three red, three purple, three green, six gray, of double Berlin wool. Needles, No. 5.
Cast on sixty-four stitches with yellow.
1st row: Wool forward; slip one, knit one.
2nd row: Join the white. The remainder is all brioche stitch; do two rows, then two yellow rows.
Join the gray; knit eighteen brioche (this is really fifty-four stitches), leaving fourteen on the other un-knitted. Turn back and knit four brioche; turn again and knit five brioche; turn and knit six. Continue taking three more stitches every time you turn, until you come to the end of your needles. Then do another yellow and white stripe.
Join the scarlet, and work as before. There have to be eighteen sections altogether, a gray one separating each bright-colored one. Make a round cushion filled with feathers or curled hair, and put the knitting over, sewing it neatly together. Draw in the centre, which may be finished off with an ornamental button; sew a silk cord round the edge.
RUGS
Very handsome hearth rugs may be knit either of rags cut and sewed as for rag carpets, and knit in garter stitch, or else of twine with bits of cloth, strands of thick Smyrna wool, or ravelings of tapestry Brussels carpet looped in. These rugs are much more easily managed if knit in strips or blocks and afterwards sewed together. They may be made oblong, oval, or round as suits one's taste. The colors may be arranged so as to form a sort ​of pattern. Thus, in one rug in my own possession, the centre is a small oblong piece of about twice as long as it is wide. This is bordered by a strip of dark green, again surrounded by a stripe of red and black mixed, and all bordered with a narrow edge of black. In another, the centre is a small square of what is commonly called in "hit or miss" pattern, blue, yellow, red and black being the predominating colors. Around this is a piece knit in gray and white inch wide stripes which is sewed round the square piece in such a way as to give a circular shape to the mat. The edge next to the square is slightly gathered in. Next comes a gray border, and then a piece of Roman stripe in which the colors used in the centre are employed. In this rug both cotton and woolen rags are used, but of course it would be much handsomer made entirely of woolen pieces.
Fig. 120.
Still another was knit in one piece about three-quarters of a yard wide and of a proportionate length. It was knit in "hit or miss" fashion, a great deal of black being used and the colored pieces being very bright and ​decided in color. It was finished by a fringe of worsted tied into either end, and the effect was quite oriental.
Figures 120 and 120a give the pattern and manner of knitting another kind of rug. The one illustrated is knit of heavy Smyrna wool and is in a set pattern, but a very pretty effect is produced by using the colors so as
Fig. 120a.
to produce a kaleidoscopic effect for the centre, then bordering with a stripe of solid color. By a judicious choice of colors, such as Pompeiian red, two shades of peacock blue, two of olive and dark wood brown, a good imitation of a Turkey rug may be obtained.
In knitting this rug, coarse unbleached knitting cotton and coarse steel knitting needles are used. The wools must be cut into equal lengths, about two inches. A good plan is to wind them on a mesh and then cut one side with a sharp knife.
The foundation is knit in plain garter stitch, and like the rugs described above are more easily managed in strips or blocks, which are afterwards sewn together. To knit in the wool, lay the end of the wool between the last knitted stitch, and the one about to be begun, so that the shorter half is in front; a stitch is then knitted off, and the hind end of the wool put in front, holding this firm at the same time with the fresh laid in one, with the thumb of the left hand.
After knitting a row of loops in, knit one row perfectly plain, and then knit in another row of loops, and so on to the end of the strip. In knitting these strips, always slip the first stitch and knit the last of every row ​without putting in a piece of wool. Pieces of woolen cloth may be used instead of the Smyrna wool. Tapestry Brussels, carpeting cut into strips of uniform width and then raveled out also furnish nice material for these rugs.
If a whole rug seems too great an undertaking, a centre of handsome carpeting (remnants of which can be procured at a low price in the city stores), edged with
Fig. 121.
a wide knit border, is very pretty. These rugs should be lined with old carpeting, gray linen, or hemp carpet.
QUILTS.
Fig. 121 is an extremely pretty quilt which has ​also the advantage of being very simple. The pattern will be best understood by a reference to the border. The centre of the quilt is knit in squares which are so knit as to cause the pattern to run diagonally across them.
Cast on one stitch, and knit nine rows of plain garter stitch, always throwing the thread round the needle at the beginning of each row.
When you have ten stitches on your needle, which should be at the end of the ninth row, proceed as follows:
10th row: M 1, P 4, M 1, K 1, M 1, P 5.
11th row: M 1, knit plain all the stitches till you come to the first made stitch in the last row, purl three, knit plain to the end of the row.
12th row: M 1, purl all the stitches until you come to those purled in the last row. M 1, K 3, M 1, purl to the end of the row.
13th row : M 1, K all the stitches to the raised pattern, purl five, K to the end of the row.
14th row: M 1, purl to the raised pattern, M 1, K 1, slip one, knit two together and pass the slipped stitch over them. K 1, M 1, purl to end of row.
15th row: M 1, K to raised pattern, purl five, K to end of row.
Repeat fourteenth and fifteenth rows six times more.
Then M 1, P to raised pattern, K 1, S 1, knit two together, draw slipped stitch over these, K 1; P to end of row.
In the next row, M 1, knit to pattern, P 3, knit to end of row.
To finish the raised pattern, knit the three stitches together. The other stitches of this row are purled.
This finishes one stripe of the square. Now knit as follows:
a
1st row: M 1, P.
​2nd row: M 1, K.
3rd row: M 1, P.
4th row: M 1, purl.
5th row: M 1, knit plain.
6th row: M 1, purl.
7th row: Ml, purl.
8th row: M 1, knit plain.
9th row: M 1, purl.
a 1
The 10th row begins the piqué pattern.
1st row: M 1, P 1, S 1, letting the thread lie in front of the slipped stitch.
2nd row: M 1, P throughout.
Repeat these three rows five times, but beginning the alternate rows on the right side of the work with a slip stitch after the made one, and then a purl stitch, which will give the honeycomb appearance in the pattern.
Repeat the rows a-a, and begin the second stripe of raised patterns. The row beginning this stripe should have sixty stitches, and has nine leaf patterns. Begin the first leaf pattern after the third purled stitch in the row.
Having knit this stripe, repeat from a-a; then repeat the piqué stripe; repeat from a-a; begin the third leaf row:
When there are 122 stitches on the needles, begin to decrease so as to form the other side of the square. After the made stitch in each row, knit two together, and knit two together before the last stitch.
Throughout the square, never neglect the made stitch at the beginning of every row.
The central part of the border is knit after the same pattern, only omitting the made stitch at the beginning of the rows. This border is edged on the one side with an open work pattern and on the other with a narrow lace. For the open work, cast on four extra stitches ​(the border takes twenty-nine), and for the lace cast on seven extra.
For the open edge, knit the four stitches at one side
Fig. 121a.
of the border always thus: K 2, M 1. T 2. Always slip the first stitch of the row.
Knit the lace thus:
​1st row: S 1, K 4, M l, T.
2nd row: K 2, M 1, T, M 1, T, K 1.
3rd row: S 1, K 1, then K 1 and P 1 out of the made stitch, K 2, M 1, T.
4th row: K 2, M 1, T, K 4.
5th row: S 1, K 5, M 1, T.
6th row: K 2, M 1, T, M 1, T, M 1, T, K 1, K 2.
7th row: S 1, K 1, then K 1 and P 1 out of the made stitch, K 1, again K 1 and P 1 out of the made stitch, K 2, M 1, T.
8th row: K 2, M 1, T, K 7.
9th row: S 1, K 8, M 1, T.
10th row : K 2, M 1, T, M 1, T, M 1, T, M 1, T, K 1.
11th row: S 1, K 1, then K 1, and P 1 out of the made stitch, again K 1 and P 1 out of the made stitch, P 2, M 1, T.
12th row: K 2, M 1, T, K 10.
Fig. 122.
13th row: Seven times one stitch is always to be cast off. K 4, M 1, T. This leaves seven stitches on the needle. Repeat from second row.
​This lace makes very pretty edging knit in linen thread, with moderately coarse needles.
Fig. 122 as seen in the illustration, is knit in blocks, six segments being required for each block.
Cast on forty-one stitches.
1st row: Slip first stitch, purl eighteen, put your needle in at the back of next stitch, slip it off without knitting, knit next two together, putting in the needle at the back (T. B. hereafter will be used to designate knitting two together in at the back of the stitch), put the slipped stitch over the one just knitted, purl nineteen.
2nd row: Knit plain. The first stitch of each row should be slipped.
3rd row: Knit two, * make one, T B, repeat to the middle, take in three at the back, repeat to the end of the row, knitting the last two stitches plain.
4th row: Knit plain.
5th row: Knit two, make one, T B * knit two, purl two, repeat from * to the middle, take in three at the back, knit to the end in the opposite direction, so that the last six stitches will be knit thus—knit two, make one, T B, knit two.
6th row: Knit four, then alternately purl two, and knit two plain the last four stitches, which are knit alike at the end of every row, viz., make one, T B, knit two.
Repeat these last two rows, until all the ribbed knitting is narrowed off to a single stitch, after which knit plain, always remembering to take in three stitches at the back in every alternate row.
Figure 123 shows how these sections are put together. A few long stitches are worked with a needle in the centre.
When the blocks are all knitted, they are sewed together, half blocks being used down the sides, so as to form a straight edge. If preferred, the ends can be ​finished in the same way, and a border of cable or other fancy knitting put around. Or the ends may be finished off in points, using whole blocks for the purpose, and the following border may be used.
Fig. 123.
This border must be knit in pieces just fitting each point. Cast on eight stitches. In the first and every alternate row, three stitches must be knit together at the back, in the middle of the row. In order to keep the same number of stitches on the needles, one must be made at the beginning of each row. Knit as follows:
1st row: Slip one, * TB, drop the next foundation stitch off the needle, throw your thread over twice, repeat from * to the end of the row, knitting the last stitch, and not forgetting the narrowing in the middle.
2nd row: Knit plain, always putting your needle in at the back of the second made stitch.
* 3rd row: Purl, making one stitch at the beginning of the row, and knitting three together at the back, in the middle of the row.
​4th row: Knit plain.
5th row: Like third.
6th row: Like fourth.
7th row: Knit plain, increasing at beginning of the row, and narrowing three stitches in the middle.
8th row: Purl.
9th row: Like seventh.
10th row: Like eighth.
Repeat from * until the border is deep enough, then tie a fringe in after one of the patterns given under "Macramé Lace."
ANOTHER QUILT.
This quilt is knit in strips and sewn together. The pattern would also form a good border for a quilt knit in squares or shells.
Cast on seventy-three stitches. Always slip the first stitch on each row.
1st row: Knit plain.
2nd row: Purl.
3rd row: Slip first stitch (as in every row), * knit two together, six plain, thread over, knit one, thread over, knit one, knit six, knit two together, knit two together, knit six, thread over, knit one.
Repeat from * twice, making three herring bones, then knit six, thread over, knit one, thread over, knit one, knit five, knit two together, knit one.
Repeat until your piece of knitting is long enough for your quilt.
CABLE KNITTING.
Cast on eighteen stitches for a stripe, thus for six plain stitches on each side of the cable, for two patterns thirty stitches will be required, and so on.
1st row: Purl six, knit six, and purl six.
2nd row: Knit six, purl six, knit six.
3rd row: Like first row.
4th row : Like second row.
5th row: Like third row.
​6th row: Knit six, take a third needle and purl three; with the first right-hand needle purl the next three stitches, and knit six.
7th row: Purl six, knit the three stitches on the third or additional needle, knit the three stitches on the left-hand needle, purl six.
8th row: Like second row.
Commence again, as at first row.
It is always well to cast on several stitches each side of the number needed for the pattern; these stitches can be knit in some fancy pattern or in plain garter stitch. The following is a pretty stitch to edge the cable pattern with:
Cast on six for each pattern, and two over, so as to have one stitch knitted plain on either side.
1st row: Throw the thread over, purl one, purl two together, repeat.
2nd and 4th rows: Purl.
EDGINGS.
The following edgings can be knit either in cotton or linen thread. Knit with thread on rather coarse needles, they are very lace like in effect and make extremely pretty trimmings.
VANDYKE BORDER.
Cast on seven stitches. Knit two rows, plain.
3rd row: Slip one, knit two, bring the thread forward, knit two together; bring the thread forward twice, knit two together.
4th row: Bring the thread forward, knit two, purl one knit two, bring thread forward, knit two together, knit one.
5th row: Slip one, knit two, bring the thread forward, knit two together, knit four.
6th row: Knit six, bring thread forward, knit two together, knit one.
7th row: Slip one, knit two, bring thread forward, knit ​two together, bring thread forward twice, knit two together, bring thread forward twice, knit two together.
8th row: Knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, bring thread forward, knit two together, knit one.
9th row: Slip one, knit two, bring thread forward, knit two together, bring thread forward twice, knit two together, bring thread forward twice, knit two together, bring thread forward twice, knit two together.
10th row: Knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, bring thread forward, knit two together, knit one.
11th row: Slip one, knit two, bring thread forward, knit two together, knit nine.
12th row: Cast off all but seven, knit four, bring thread forward, knit two together, knit one.
This finishes the first pattern. Repeat, beginning at the third row.
KNITTED LACE.
Cast on twelve stitches with fine cotton or thread.
1st row: Slip one, knit two, purl one; knit two together; turn the thread once round the needle, knit two, purl one, knit one; turn the thread once round the needle, knit two, taken together at the back.
2nd row: Slip one, knit one; turn the thread twice round the needle, knit two, purl two together; turn the thread once round the needle, knit one, purl two together; turn the thread twice round the needle, purl two together, knit one.
3rd row: Slip one, knit two, purl one, knit two; turn the thread once round the needle, knit two together, taken at the back, knit one, knit two together, knit three.
4th row: Slip one, turn the thread once round the needle, purl one, knit two together; turn the thread once round the needle, knit four, purl two together; ​turn the thread twice round the needle, purl two together, knit one.
5th row: Slip one, knit two, purl one, knit two, knit two together; turn the thread twice round the needle, knit three, purl two together, knit one.
6th row: Slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over it, slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over it; slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over it; slip one, knit two; turn the thread once round the needle, purl two together; knit one, turn the thread twice round the needle, purl two together, knit one.
EDGING.
Fig. 124.
Cast on seven stitches.
1st row. Slip one, knit two, make one, knit two together at the back, make two, knit two.
2nd row: Slip one, knit one, knit one and purl one in the made stitch ; knit two, make one, knit two together at the back, knit one.
3rd row: Slip one, knit two, make one, knit two together at the back, knit four.
4th row: Cast off two, knit three, make one, knit two together at the back, knit one.
KNITTED CUFF AND COLLAR.
For the knitted lace shown in No. 126, cast on nineteen stitches.
1st row: Slip one, knit two, make one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit two together, knit three, knit two together, make one, knit one, knit two together, make one, knit three.
​2nd row: Knit three, make one, knit one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit two together twice, knit one, make one, knit one, knit two together, make one, knit one, knit two together, knit one.
Fig. 125.
3rd row: Slip one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit three together, make one, knit one, knit two together, make one, knit five.
4th row: Knit six, make one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit one, knit two together, make one, knit one, knit two together, knit one.
5th row: Slip one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit one, knit two together, make one, knit seven.
6th row: Knit eight, make one, knit two together, knit three, knit two together, make one, knit one, knit two together, knit one.
7th row: Slip one, knit two together, make one, knit one, knit two together, knit one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit two together, knit six.
8th row: Knit five, knit two together, make one, knit one, knit two together, knit one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit two.
9th row: Slip one, knit one, make one, knit one, knit two together, make one, knit one, make one, Knit two ​together, knit one, make one, knit two together, knit four.
Fig. 126.
10th row: Knit three, knit two together, make one, knit one, knit two together, make one, knit three, make one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit two.
11th row: Slip one, knit one, make one, knit one, knit two together, make one, knit five, make one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit two together, knit two.
12th row: Knit one, knit two together, make one, knit one, knit two together, make one, knit one, knit two together, pass the cotton twice round the pin, knit two together, knit two, make one, knit two together, knit one, make one, knit two.
13th row: Slip one, knit two, make one, knit two together, knit one/make one, knit two together, knit one, knit one and purl one in the made stitches, knit two ​together, make one, knit one, knit two together, make one, knit three.
Repeat from the second row three times more, then cast on thirteen stitches for the top of collar.
1st row: Knit one, slip one, make one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over the two knitted together, make one, knit three, make one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over two knitted together, make one, knit two, continue the second row of edge.
2nd row: Commence with the third row of edge, then knit two, purl nine, knit two.
3rd row: Knit one, slip one, knit three, make one, slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over the two knitted together, make one, knit five, continue with the fourth row of edge.
4th row: Commence with the fifth row of edge, then knit two, purl nine, knit two.
Continue from first row of top with the sixth row of edge, then the second row of top with the seventh row of edge, and so on, till you have worked the length required of the band, when you cast off thirteen stitches and continue the lace for the other side.
KNITTED CAP.
Materials: Strutt's knitting-cotton, No. 12; steel pins No. 14.
For the foundation (see Figure 127) cast on eighty-five stitches, and one over for the slipped stitch.
1st row: Slip one, * make one, knit two together, knit seven, knit two together, make one, knit one. Repeat from *.
2nd row: Slip one as if for purling, purl one, * make one, purl two together, purl five, purl two together, make one, purl three. Repeat from *. End with make one, purl two.
​3rd row: Slip one, knit two, * make one, knit two together, knit three, knit two together, make one, knit five. Repeat from *. End with make one, knit three.
Fig. 127.
4th row: Slip one as if for purling, purl three, * make one, purl two together, purl one, purl two together, make one, purl seven. Repeat from *. End with make one, purl four.
Now repeat from first row. The top and bottom are drawn in to the shape.
For the lace trimming (Figure 128), cast on as many stitches as there are round the cap, allowing a few over for sewing on—about 216. The pattern is divisible by six.
1st row: * Knit five, drop the next stitch on the left ​needle, pick up the back one, and put it on the right-hand needle. Repeat from *.
2nd row: Purl.
Fig. 128.
3rd row: Knit one, * take off two stitches as if you were going to knit them together, take the under one on to the left pin, knit it together with the next stitch on the left pin, pass the second stitch on the right needle over the last, knit one, make one, knit one, make one, knit one. Repeat from *.
4th row: Purl.
5th row: * Take off two stitches, and work as before described in third row, make one, knit three, make one. Repeat from *.
6th row: Purl. 7th row: * Knit two together, make one, knit four. Repeat from *.
8th row: Purl.
9th row: Knit.
10th row: Purl.
11th row: Knit two together, * make one, knit two together. Repeat from *.
​12th row: Slip one, knit two together, * make one, knit two togeher. Repeat from *. Cast off. On top of this row, crochet as follows:—One quadruple treble in the first stitch, one chain, pass over one. Repeat.
Sew on to cap. A ribbon is run through the treble row, and finished with a bow at the top and bottom of cap.
KNITTED LACE.
Cast on fourteen stitches.
Knit one plain row:
1st row: Slip two, knit two, make one, knit two together at the back, knit one, make one, knit two together at the back, slip five, pass the fourth over the fifth, third over the fourth, second over the third, slip two off the right-hand needle on to the left, make three, knit two together.
2nd row: Make one, knit one, purl one, knit one, purl one in the three made stitches, knit two, make one, knit two together at the back, knit one, make one, knit two together at the back, purl two.
3rd row: Slip two, knit two, make one, knit two together at the back, knit one, make one, knit two together at the back, knit five.
4th row: Make one, knit two together at the back, knit five, make one, knit two together at the back, knit one, make one, knit two together at the back, purl two.
5th row: The same as 3rd row.
6th row: The same as 4th row.
7th row: The same as 3rd row.
8th row: The same as 4th row.
9th row: The same as 3rd row.
10th row: The same as 4th row.
11th row: The same as 3rd row.
12th row: The same as 4th row.
Repeat from first row.
KNITTED LACE.
Fig. 129.
Cast on twenty-one stitches, and knit a plain row.
1st row: Slip two, knit two, make one, knit two together at the back, make two, purl two together, slip two, knit one, pass three stitches separately on the right hand needle over the last stitch on the right hand needle, make two, purl two together, slip two, knit one, pass the three stitches over as before, make two, purl two together, slip two, knit one, pass the three stitches as before.
2nd row: Slip one, * knit one, purl one, knit one, purl one (the last four stitches are worked in the two made stitches of the previous row), knit one, repeat from *, knit one, repeat from first *, knit two, make one, knit two together at the back, purl two.
3rd row: Slip two, knit two, make one, knit two together at the back, knit fifteen.
4th row: Slip one, knit sixteen, make one, knit two together at the back, purl two.
5th row: The same as third.
6th row: The same as fourth.
Repeat from first pattern row.
NECKERCHIEF AND HEAD-DRESS.
The design is shown folded over as a neckerchief in Figure 130. Either of the trimmings shown in Nos. 131 and 132 is suitable for it.
Fig. 130.
It may be made in white or colored Lady Betty, or in Shetland wool; with pins, No. 9 (bell gauge).
For the foundation, in plain knitting, cast on twelve stitches, increase one at the beginning and end of each row by knitting and purling the second stitch from the end; when you have one hundred stitches on the needle decrease to twelve again by knitting two together at the beginning and end of each row.
This completes the foundation.
For lace No. 131 cast on eighteen stitches.
1st row: Slip one as if for purling, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit three, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit one, pass the second stitch on the right-hand needle over it, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit one.
​2nd row: Slip one, knit three, purl one in the same made stitch, knit one, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit five, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit two.
Fig. 131.
3rd and 4th rows: Plain knitting.
5th row: Slip one as if for purling, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit two, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, knit three.
6th row: Slip one, knit two, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit three, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit four, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit two.
7th and 8th rows: Plain knitting.
9th row: Slip one as if for purling, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, kuit one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit three, slip one, ​knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, knit three.
10th row: Slip one, knit two, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit five, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit three, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit two.
11th and 12th rows: Plain knitting.
13th row: Slip one as if for purling, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit two, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit one.
14th row: Slip one as if for purling, knit two, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit three, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit four, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit two.
15th and 16th rows: Plain knitting.
17th row: Slip one as if for purling, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit three, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit one, pass the second stitch on the rig-lit hand needle over it, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit one.
18th row: Slip one as if for purling, knit two, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit one, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit five, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit two.
19th and 20th rows: Plain knitting. Repeat from 5th row. Sew on to the foundation.
For No. 132 cast on fifteen stitches.
1st row: Slip one, knit eight, make one, knit two ​together, make one, knit two together, make one, knit two together.
2nd row: Knit plain, knitting and purling each made stitch.
Fig. 132.
3rd, 4th and 5th rows: Plain knitting.
6th row: Cast off three, knit the last plain. Repeat from first row.
BABY'S SHIRT.
The following is a very simple rule for a high-necked and long-sleeved shirt:
Use two-threaded, all-wool, Saxony yarn; ivory or rubber needles of the ordinary size for such yarn.
Cast on one hundred stitches; knit thirty-two rows plain; this forms the shoulder.
33rd row: Slip first stitch, knit two together, the rest plain.
34th row: Plain.
35th row: Slip one, knit two together, the rest plain.
36th row: Plain.
37th row: Slip one, knit two together, rest plain.
38th row; Plain.
39th row: Slip one, knit two together, rest plain.
40th row: Plain.
41st row: Slip one, knit two together, rest plain.
42nd row: Plain.
​43rd row: Slip one, knit two together, rest plain.
44th row: Plain.
45th row: Slip one, knit two together, rest plain.
You have now narrowed seven times on one edge; now knit fourteen rows plain. Bind off thirty-five stitches, then knit thirty-five stitches on the same needle again. This leaves an opening for the front. Now knit fourteen rows plain; now widen one stitch at the beginning of every alternate needle (always slip first stitch until you have widened seven times)—you will then have one hundred stitches again. Knit thirty-two rows plain and half the shirt is done. Bind off thirty-five stitches for armhole; make thirty-five stitches again, then proceed as for the front, only omitting the opening in front. Bind off all the stitches and sew edges together from the bottom, leaving thirty-five stitches open for the other arm hole. Sew the shoulders together.
For Sleeves. Cast on forty stitches. Knit eighty-eight rows plain. Bind off all but eleven stitches. Knit these until a little square is formed; bind off. This makes a gusset for top of sleeve. Pick up the loops * on the lower edge of the sleeve on No. 15 steel needles. Knit a ribbed wrist (knit two, purl two) about one and one-half inches long. Sew up the sleeve, trimming the side of gusset to the straight side. Sew the point of gusset into lower notch of arm hole.
Crochet a row of shells on bottom of shirt. Face one side of opening in front with narrow white ribbon, and sew on three buttons. For holes, crochet a looped edge on the other side and all around the neck; also a row of shells around the neck. Run a narrow ribbon in the holes round the neck.
LOW NECKED BABY SHIRT.
Cast on any number that can be divided by ten.
1st row: Knit two together, knit two, thread forward, knit one, thread forward, knit three, knit two together.
​2nd row: Purl.
3rd row: Plain knitting. Repeat from first row. This forms a scalloped pattern. Knit a piece several inches deep, then knit in ribs of two plain, two purl, until the shirt is the required length.
These shirts are knit in two pieces, which are afterwards sewn together, leaving an opening at the upper end for the armhole.
When the knitting is of the required length, finish with a row of holes to within eight inches of one end. Cast off all but these eight inches, and knit them plain, carrying a row of holes along either edge, for a shoulder strap. (Holes are made by making a stitch and knitting the next two together. On the return row, knit plain.
Having knit both pieces, sew up and finish with a row of shell stitch crocheted into the upper edge, and around the arm holes. If sleeves are desired, knit pieces of the requisite size in the scallop pattern and sew them in. Run a narrow ribbon through the holes in the neck, and tie in a bow.
BABY'S BOOT.
A very simple pattern for a baby's boot is as follows:
White Berlin and Needles No. 13. Cast on thirty; and knit twenty-four rows plain on in any fancy stitch you like, for the leg; for the last row *, knit two, wool over the needle, knit two together. Repeat from *. This forms holes, into which ribbon must be run after the boot is finished.
Twenty-fifth row: From this time forward you must knit one, purl one; reversed every third row, to make a kind of dice pattern. Cast on eleven extra stitches at the end of each of the next two rows, making fifty-two in all. Increase at the beginning of every row until there are sixty-two stitches; do four plain rows; then decrease in the same way till you have only fifty-two again. Take ​off and sew up. Crochet a double scallop at top in blue wool, for a finish.
KNITTED PURSE.
One skein blue and one black of purse twist.
Cast on seventy-two. Knit two together, make one, knit one. Repeat. Second row plain. When broad enough double it and sew up, leaving about three inches open for the money to slip in. Finish off with steel rings and tassels.
ANOTHER PURSE.
One-half ounce E E Corticelli Purse Twist or one-half ounce No. 300 Florence Knitting Silk, and two No. 18 needles.
Cast on to one needle fifty-nine stitches, knit across once plain.
2nd row: Purl two together, then repeat until only one stitch remains, knit one.
3rd row and every two after until the sixty-fifth is reached, the same as the second.
Now do eighty-three rows of plain knitting (garter stitch), then knit sixty-four rows of the fancy pattern the same as at the beginning, knit one row plain and cast off. Sew up the edges, leaving an opening of two and one half inches. Finish with steel rings and tassels of steel beads.
Many varieties of fancy patterns are formed by combinations of knitted, purled, and slipped stitches; these patterns being useful in knitting shawls, tidies, stockings, etc. When used for round knitting, as in stockings, care must be taken to reverse the stitch in every alternate row, that is a plain stitch must be purled, a purled stitch plain.
RAIN PATTERN.
Fourteen stitches are required for each pattern.
1st row: Knit one, thread forward, knit five, slip one,
​knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit five thread forward. Repeat. This makes a scallop.
BARLEY-CORN STITCH.
This simple stitch is very suitable for borders, or to use as an edge for cable or plait knitting.
Cast on any uneven number of stitches.
Slip the first stitch, keeping the thread in front of the needle; turn the thread round the needle, so as to bring it in front again; knit two together, taken in front. Continue turning the thread round the needle and knitting two together to the end of the row. All the rows are alike.
CRAVAT: KNITTING.
Fig. 133.
Berlin or Shetland wool, two pins No. 12 (bell gauge).
Cast on thirty-one stitches, knit a plain row.
1st row: Knit four, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, knit one, make one, slip one, ​knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, repeat from the beginning of this row twice more; end with knit four.
2nd row: Plain knitting.
3rd row: The same as first.
4th row: The same as second.
5th row: The same as first.
6th row: The same as second.
7th row: Knit two together, make two, knit two together, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over; repeat twice more, end with knit two together, make two, knit two together.
8th row: Knit all the row plain, with the exception of knit one, purl one, in the make two of last row. Repeat from first row until sufficiently long to tie. Sew round it a knitted lace, made as follows:
Cast on ten stitches.
1st row: Slip one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make two, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, knit two.
2nd row: Slip one, knit three, knit one, purl one in the made stitch, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit two.
3rd row: Slip one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit four, make one, knit one at the back, make one, knit two.
4th row: Slip one, knit eight, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit two.
5th row: Slip one, knit one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit three, make one, slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, make one, knit one at the back, make one, knit one at the back, make one, knit two.
6th row: Cast off five, knit five, make one, slip one, ​knit one, pass the slipped stitch over, knit two. Repeat from first row:
SILK MITTENS.
For a medium sized hand, wearing six and one half or six and three-quarters, cast on of three hundred knitting silk on No. 20 needles seventy-two stitches.
1st row: * Purl one, knit one, purl one, knit one, over and knit one eight times. Repeat from * to end of third needle.
2nd row: * Purl one, knit one, purl one, knit seventeen. Repeat from *.
3rd row: Purl one, knit one, purl one, slip one, knit one and throw slipped stitch over, knit thirteen, knit two together. Repeat from *.
4th row: * Purl one, knit one, purl one, slip one, knit one and throw slipped stitch over, knit eleven, knit two together. Repeat from *.
5th row: Purl one, knit one, purl one, slip one, knit one and throw slipped stitch over, knit nine, knit two together. Repeat from *.
6th row: * Purl one, knit one, purl one, slip one, knit one and throw slipped over, knit seven, knit two together, Repeat from *.
This forms one row of shells. Repeat from first row until there are nine rows of shells for the wrist. Carry three rows of shells up the back of the hand, making the purl one, knit one, purl one on each side. To form the gore of the thumb widen about every fourth row until you have thirty-six stitches, making a purled stitch on each side of gore and leaving between the last purl stitch at side of shell and purl stitch at side of thumb three stitches. Shape off the thirty-six stitches for the thumb, cast on twelve for the hand and knit plain to the end of the little finger and commence narrowing.
Reduce number of stitches in shells from nine to seven ​and when near the top to five. To make the thumb, take up the thirty-six stitches, pick up the loops under the stitches cast one, and narrow in the corners to twelve stitches on a needle. Knit the required length and narrow off.
For a smaller size cast on sixty stitches and make each shell with seven instead of nine stitches. This pattern does equally well for Saxony yarn, and by some is considered as pretty as silk.
KNITTED UNDER-VEST FOR LADIES.
The vest is commenced at the lower part. The number of stitches cast on must be regulated by the size of the person for whom the garment is intended with the pins and wool named; when knitted moderately loose, eight stitches must be cast on for the inch, and ten rows knitted to the inch.
For a vest measuring twenty-four inches round, about one hundred and ninety-two stitches must be cast on.
First to twentieth rounds: Knit two and purl two alternately. Now commence the basket pattern shown in the illustration.
First to seventh rounds: Purl three, knit one.
From the eighth to fourteenth rounds: Reverse the pattern by working a plain stitch in the centre of the three purl of previous seven rounds. These seven rounds are repeated alternately fourteen times more.
Divide the stitches equally, leaving half the number for the back on one pin. Let these remain without working them, until the fronts are knitted. Divide the stitches of the front equally on two pins, as each half must now be worked separately.
For the wrap-over: Cast on eight stitches on the buttonhole side; these must be knitted throughout. At equal distances make three buttonholes by knitting two, cast off four, and knit two.
In the following row: Knit two, cast on four, and ​knit two; these buttonholes must have ten plain rows between each.
The fronts must now be knitted back and forward, taking care to keep the ribs by knitting the purl-stitches and purling the knitted.
Work fourteen rows of the basket pattern, then commence the gores; work twenty-four stitches next the armhole; commence the gore by picking up one loop between the stitches and knitting it plain (the gores are plain knitting throughout); knit twelve stitches, continuing the pattern, then begin the second gore; again knit twelve stitches.
In the three following rows: Continue the pattern, and knit the stitches of the gores.
In the fourth row: Increase a stitch by picking up one loop before and one after the made stitches for the gores and knitting them; this increase is continued till you have the gores the required length.
Cast off across the front, leaving twenty-four stitches for the shoulder; work as far as the top of shoulder, which you must judge the length of, by the size of armhole needed, cast off the twenty-four stitches. Work the second side of front in the same way, with the addition of the wrap and buttonhole before described.
Now continue the back as far as required till you have worked it from four to six rows higher than the front. Cast off all but the twenty-four stitches on each side; on these work the shoulders till long enough; join to front shoulders by sewing together. Pick up the stitches round the armhole on three pins. The gusset under the arm is formed by knitting two stitches together in every third round exactly in the centre of under part of sleeve. When the sleeve is the required width continue to work round without decrease for twenty-one rounds, then cast off.
​For the crochet edge, which is worked round the neck and sleeves:—
1st row: One double into each stitch at the edge.
2nd row: One treble into a stitch, one chain, pass over one stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the row.
3rd row: One double under one chain, four chain, one double under same chain, three chain, pass over three stitches, and repeat from the beginning of the row.
4th row: One treble under four chain, three chain, two trebles under four chain, three chain, two trebles under four chain, three chain, one treble under four chain, one double under three chain. Repeat from the beginning of the row.
A ribbon is run through the second row of the neck, and is tied in front in a bow.
BIRD NEST MATS.
Cut a circular piece of cardboard of the size desired for the mat; cover it with silk, silesia, or any appropriate material of a color harmonizing with the worsted used for the border. Shaded green is the prettiest color for these mats. Cast on sufficient stitches to make five or six inches in knitting, and cut a number of pieces of wool into eight inch lengths. Knit as directed for Smyrna rug (page 250) until you have a strip sufficiently long to go round the cardboard foundation. Cast off and comb out the knit in pieces until they are soft and fluffy. Sew one edge on to the foundation, letting the other edge stand up. Turn this inside and catch to the back of the knitting at a depth of two inches.
FICELLE LACE FOR MANTEL.
This is merely lace knit or crocheted from cord or twine. It is much used in the place of Macramé, being much more expeditiously made. In the chapter on crochet, some patterns are given for this work, but as ​some prefer knitting, I subjoin a simple pattern. Many of the lace patterns would look very pretty in twine. Linen twine is the best, as it does not soil so quickly as the seine twine.
Cast on forty-three stitches.
1st row: Knit four plain, then make one; knit two together, knit one plain, repeat this to the end of the row.
2nd row: Make one, knit two together, and knit one, repeating till only four are left on the needle. Now take three strands of fringe (which consists of the twine cut in pieces twenty inches in length), lay them across the work between the needles, knit one stitch; bring the other end of the fringe over toward you; knit two stitches, then put it all back across the work together, and knit last stitch.
3rd and 5th row must be knitted like the first row; fourth and sixth like the second row.
7th row: Knit plain.
8th row: Purl, putting in fringe as before.
9th row: Knit five plain, put your thread over your needle twice; then knit one, and repeat till the last stitch, which is knitted plain without putting the thread over the needle before it.
10th row: Purl two, slipping off the thread that has been put twice over the needle. Take six stitches on your needle, slipping the thread off between. Cross the three back stitches over the front ones, then purl them all through. When there are nine stitches left on the needle, purl five; then put in the fringe.
11th row: Knit plain.
12th row: Purl and put in the fringe.
Repeat from first row, until you have the necessary length.
CHILD'S PETTICOAT.
The number of stitches to be used for this child's ​petticoat will, of course, vary according to the yarn and needles used. The model is knit in red and white doubled Shetland lambs's wool; it will take two ounces of red, and three of white wool.
Cast on two hundred and sixteen stitches with the red wool.
1st row: Purl.
2nd row: Knit plain.
3rd row: Purl.
4th row: Knit plain.
5th row: Slip one, knit two together, knit three, * make one, knit one, make one, knit three, knit two together, make one, knit two together, knit three, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Sixth row: Purl.
7th row: Like the fifth.
8th row: Purl.
9th row: Like the fifth.
10th row: Purl.
11th row: Like the fifth.
12th row: Purl.
13th row : Like the fifth.
14th row: Join in the white wool, and purl the row.
15th row: Purl.
16th row: Knit plain.
17th row: Purl.
18th row: Purl.
19th row: Knit plain.
20th and following rows, alternately like the fifth and sixth rows, until thirteen rows of white have been knitted; then join on the red and repeat from the fourteenth. Repeat these patterns until there are three patterns of red and two of white. Join on the white wool and knit forty-eight rows in brioche stitch; in the first row take three stitches together at the end of the row.
This petticoat is very pretty knit in pale blue ​Germantown wool. One hundred and fifty stitches will be sufficient then. By using a greater number of stitches handsome skirts can be knit for ladies' wear. They are more comfortable when set on a muslin yoke. They can be knit in two or more breadths and then sewed together.
One of the greatest comforts to an old person or an invalid is a pair of bed-shoes, and they are so easy of execution that a child could knit a pair without any difficulty. They are knit of double zephyr on bone or wooden needles. Cast on thirty stitches, and knit two rows plain; then one row of holes made as follows: knit one, throw thread forward, knit two together, repeat to end of row.
The succeeding work is all plain knitting (always slipping the first stitch) until you have a piece two fingers in length; knit another row of holes, two more of plain knitting, and cast off. Double the oblong piece thus obtained, sew up the ends, and run a piece of elastic through the holes long enough to fit round the foot from the heel over the instep. Finish with a bow of ribbon on one of the seams. These look odd until worn, but fit the foot delightfully, and are an untold comfort to any one who suffers from cold feet.
Double knitting is simple and very useful for cradle and crib blankets. To work it cast on the requisite number of stitches in wool (the kind depending on the warmth required; single zephyr or Germantown are both useful), and knit four or five rows plain. Then knit four stitches plain, * bring the wool to the front, slip a stitch and pass the wool back, and knit the next stitch; repeat from * to the last four stitches, which are to be knit plain. For the next row knit the slipped stitch, and slip the knit one, always bringing the wool forward before slipping the stitch, and returning it to the back of the work after so doing. If you knit tightly it is advisable to wind your wool twice round the needle in ​knitting the stitches of the double part, but be careful not to increase the number of stitches.
PATCHWORK.
Patchwork is by no means without its literary associations. Mary Scudder's attic boudoir, curtained off with patchwork quilts, has been pictured by Mrs. Stowe's pleasant pen, and, in the same novel, Miss Prissy's enthusiasm over a new quilting pattern is quite realistic to any who have attended the country sewing societies of a few years ago, where "rising sun" and "basket" patterns were solemnly discussed. But the old fashioned patchwork quilts are "out," and crazy quilts are "in," so I give a few practical directions for this work.
The first thing is to collect scraps of silk, satin, plush, velvet, etc. Very good packages of silk may be bought at most of the large city stores, but you need not confine yourselves entirely to new pieces. Any scraps that are bright and fresh can be used. A good deal of black is desirable, and you should by all means have a varied assortment of colors. Soft shades, and neutral tints are very useful. Brocades are especially desirable. It is wise to begin with a small piece of work, such as a sofa-pillow or a border for a table-scarf, or a chair-seat, and thus save yourself from becoming discouraged by too great an undertaking.
A band of patchwork can be inserted between two pieces of plain material, such as satin, velvet, plush or silk. Take a piece of thin muslin or cheese-cloth for a foundation, and on this baste your pieces, turning in the edges as in log-cabin patchwork. If you wish your work to be artistic have a plan or motive in laying out your work. For instance, if you are making a band for a table-scarf, you can have a series of square or oblong tiles of a plain material, each one embroidered with a ​handsome design. Or you may have a number of small round fans, the sticks being worked in heavy chain-stitch, and appropriate designs in outline can be worked (after you have all your pieces in place) on each fan. These should be arranged with as little stiffness as possible, and then the spaces between must be filled in with a mosaic of small pieces. Care must be taken to arrange the colors harmoniously, using neutral tints to separate violently contrasting hues. Having arranged all your pieces to your own satisfaction, the next step is to work all the seams with fancy stitches in various colors. All your odds and ends of embroidery silks will now be useful. Spangles, gold and silver thread, and flat gold braids are also used with good effect. Great attention must be paid to "keeping the balance true." That is, the ornamentation must be evenly distributed, not massed in any one spot. The same thing is true of the colors, which should be so managed as to avoid any patchy effects. All sorts of fancy stitches can be used for working the seams. Brier, coral, buttonhole, and point russe stitches are the most common, but a clever worker can make up many ornamental ones to suit her own fancy. For instance, a wide row of herringbone of black silk can have a fan of three or five stitches of a bright color worked at each point. For another place, the herringbone can be of the color and the fans of black. Railroad stitch is very pretty also; it is quickly worked.
I recently saw a most beautiful quilt, a description of which may prove suggestive to some of my readers. The centre was a square of embroidered satin, the corners of which were cut off by the rounding edges of four large Japanese fans, of the folding kind. The mounts or upper parts of these fans were made of alternate strips of two contrasting colors, black, I think, being one of these in all the fans. Across these a Japanesque floral pattern ​was worked. The sticks were indicated by embroidery. Between these main blocks was a ground-work of mosaic worked daintily with fancy stitches and a few wee bits of floral decoration. On a rather large space of the mosaic was worked the monogram of the owner, and below that, with a spray of forget-me-not intervening, the date when the work was done. The whole was edged with lace having the outlines of the pattern run with colored silk, and was handsomely lined. A good quality of silesia will do for a lining, though silk is much to be preferred. A thin layer of wadding should be placed between the lining and the outside and caught together at intervals, but anything like regular quilting should be avoided.
Another beautiful piece of crazy work was a band for a portière in which two or three colors were so arranged as to shade from dark at the ends to light in the centre. The ornamentation, in this case, was extremely rich, and gold thread, etc., was lavishly used.
This patchwork can also be made from nice woolen pieces worked with crewels, and the latest attempt at it which I have seen was a bedside rug, made of odd bits of Brussels carpet, arranged smoothly on a strong foundation of hemp carpeting or ticking, and the seams covered with worsted braid worked with crewels and silks. This struck me as a peculiarly happy way of disposing of those bits of carpeting which are so apt to tantalize the housekeeper in her spring cleaning. I dare say, too, a small sum would purchase a sufficient variety of remnants to make several large and handsome to say nothing of durable rugs.
A few of the old homespun sheets of our grandmothers days, still remain as treasures in some families. A good use to put them to is to convert them into summer counterpanes, decorating them either with crewel work, or with floral designs in turkey red or ingrain blue calico ​appliquéd on to the linen, the veins being worked in with black on a darker shade of the same color, as the calico, and the leaves and flowers connected by graceful lines of stem stitch. Such quilts, made in the time of Queen Anne, have been preserved to the present day.
A rather unique quilt was made by a friend of mine as a gift to her minister's baby. It was made of alternate blocks of white and colored calico, and on the white blocks, the letters of the alphabet, cut from red or blue calico were appliquéd.
The down from many different plants can be gathered through the summer, and used to stuff small bags neatly made, which, when a number are sewed together will furnish a very good imitation of a down quilt. The small white everlasting flower, sometimes called moonshine, furnishes quite a good amount of this vegetable down.