# Gujarát and the Gujarátis/In to Ahmedabad

IN TO AHMEDABAD.
But to return to the train taking us to Ahmedabad. We reached the station late in the evening, and finding a shigram waiting for hire, thrust ourselves and luggage into it. We were driven over excellent roads to the "Káranj," a delightfully-situated house belonging to Mr. Cowasji Muncherji Káranjwálá. I was very kindly received by my host, and passed a very agreeable fortnight under his roof. Mr. Cowasji is noted—as was his good old father before him—for loyalty and liberality, qualities rare enough in the mofussil. He has always been a friend of the people, and ready to promote every scheme of public usefulness. He is honorary secretary to various public institutions; and in the consideration of all public measures his advice and ​suggestions are always sought by the authorities. Every visitor to Ahmedabad returns charmed with Mr. Cowasji's hospitality and the range of his local knowledge of all conditions of life. Among his many acts of public service, those by which he will be longest remembered, and which ought to have received some substantial recognition from an appreciating Government, are his exertions during the flood at Ahmedabad a few years ago. Those who have read the accounts of his continuous efforts to save life and to support the rescued at considerable personal risk and expense, are of opinion that Ahmedabad could not be sufficiently grateful to its benevolent and public-spirited Parsi citizen.
Sights.
Next morning my excellent host took me out for sight-seeing. Ahmedabad is rich in sights. The remains of Mahomedan architectural art are "magnificent" even "in their ruin." The mosques and mausoleums, tombs and tanks and pleasure-grounds, vie with each other in grandeur and beauty. Nor is the Hindu style of architecture less attractive. For eight days consecutively did I do the town, often with mine host for guide, ​times with a Mahomedan guide picked up in the streets. Mr. Káranjwálá knows Ahmedabad probably as no other living man knows it. So much has been written about the architectural importance of this Mahomedan capital, that I have nothing new to add, and I hate borrowing. Of recent accounts, the best is Mr. T. C. Hope's spirited historical and descriptive sketch.
Making Friends.
This day I had the pleasure of making the personal acquaintance of my friend Rao Sáheb Mahipatrám Ruprám, Principal of the Gujarat Training College. Mr. Mahipatram remained for over an hour, and a long and very interesting talk did we have together. Mahipatrám Rupram is a notable man—an educationalist, reformer, and patriot, a man of much literary taste and ability. He has done and suffered more in the cause of social reform than any Hindu I know of in Gujarát. He is quite earnest in whatever he undertakes, and, for a Hindu, wonderfully persevering. After the death of the heroic Karsandás Mulji, Mahipatrám has been perhaps our only Hindu reformer deserving that title. Of "lip-reformers" there is no lack at Ahmedabad, or in ​India; but the genuine man is only too rarely met with. With a truer education than hitherto, I hope we shall have really earnest workers in the field. May the example of Karsandás's noble life be always before my countrymen! Mr. Mahipatrám introduced me to Mr. S. N. Tagore, the well-known Hindu civil servant. Of him I have spoken elsewhere. He was Sessions Judge at Ahmedabad for a pretty long time. The Ahmedabadis speak of him in the highest terms, not only as an official, but as a gentleman and friend. Indeed, I have all along thought that Satyendra Náth Tagore would have still better adorned the Pulpit than the Bench. But as he does credit to both functions, it would be churlish to repine.
Next day came Mr.Bholánáth Sárábhái, a Rao Báhádur, a Sirdár, and an esteemed Government pensioner. Mr. Bholánáth is an elderly gentleman, and ranks among the reformers. But age has taught him to be cautious, and I do not wonder that he is not such a favourite with the ardent youngsters as with men of his own time. But all the same he is an estimable old gentleman, and if he can do good by" word of mouth," he will not be silent.
​That evening I had the honour of a call from my friend Khán Báhádur Cooverji Cowasji Sabáwálá, the Deputy-Collector, a sensible practical worker, with a character for independence which few native officials can boast of. Mr. Cooverji is a man of the old school. He hates idle talk. Not given to insincere profession, and too rough-hewn by nature for mere sentimentalism, he is a terror to our "civilised" dandies. He will gladly shake an honest labourer by the hand, but holds the scented "exquisite" in horror. Mr. Cooverji bears a high reputation in the official circles.
Next in order came Rao Báhádur Mukunrái Manirái, the Sub-Judge, a very quiet unobtrusive man. He is seldom heard of in public, but is none the less earnest in the work of popular enlightenment. I believe Mr. Mukunrái is a very studious man. His official career has been blameless, and he is popular enough in the profession.
Having very little time left on hand now, I gave a hasty call to Rao Báhádur Nuggershet Premábhai Hemábhai. Sett Premábhai is the leading Hindu here, and was a millionaire before the days of the share mania of 1864-5. He ​was once a Member of the Bombay Legislative Council. He showed me several ancient Persian documents, proving that his ancestors were holders of great jagirs from the Moghul Emperors. Mr. Premábhai is by no means a poor man, even in these days. Personally, he is a worthy, amiable, asthmatic gentleman. Professionally, he is a Sowcár, an astute man of business for all his airs of innocent simplicity. Sett Premabhái is a Jain Shrawak by caste; and a few years ago he more than amused his friends by marrying himself and his eldest son to twin sisters. It would be interesting to determine the degree of consanguinity between his progeny by the new wife and his son's progeny by her sister AND daughter-in-law!
I also called upon Mr. Cursetji Mánockji, the Small Cause Court Judge, son of the famous Mr. Mánockji Cursetji, the friend of kings and princes. Mr. Cursetji appeared to be a very interesting and intelligent man. But if he were to appear in his usual dress before one of our Dustoors, he would send off his reverence into fits of hysteric vituperation. Mr. Cursetji dresses ​like a European, and does not cover his head—which is a scandal unto a Parsi.
I must not omit Kavi Dalpatrám Dáyábhái, the blind bard of Gujarát. Kavi Kalpatrám is a popular Hindu Gujaráti poet, and has written much of the sort of "poetry" that we can have in the country. He has a great rival in Kavi Narmadáshankar Lálshankar of Surat. This latter seems to have more power, the former more simplicity and grace. The aged Dalpatrám gave me a very warm greeting, and would not let me leave him without a formal benediction.
Before leaving Ahmedabad Ihad the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the Rev. Mr. Gillespie, of the local mission, to whom I was introduced by my latelamented friend Mr. Joseph Taylor. And now enough of acquaintances and friends, and enough, for the nonce, of Ahmedabad too.