# The New Dressmaker/Chapter 27

CHAPTER 27
APPLIED TRIMMINGS, RUFFLLES, EMBROIDERY AND LACE—Part I
Ruffles—Embroidery Used As a Facing—Embroidery Joined In a Tuck—Embroidery Inserted by Machine—Embroidery Inserted With Rolled Hems—Embroidery Mitered—Whipping on Trimming—Inserting Lace—Inserting Lace Above a Facing—Mitering Lace—Shaped Pieces of Insertion—Inserting Lace Medallions
Ill. 301. Whipping and Gathering A RUFFLE USED AS TRIMMING may be whipped and gathered. Roll the raw edge and overcast the material as far as it is rolled, taking care to make the stitch below the roll, not through it. (Ill 301.) Draw up the thread, making the ruffle the desired fulness. Divide the ruffle in quarters and mark them with colored thread. Make corresponding marks on the edge to which the ruffle is to be attached. Roll the edge of the garment and overhand the ruffle to it, taking a stitch in every whipped stitch of the ruffle.
Ill. 302. Ruffle Inserted in a Hem TO INSERT A RUFFLE IN A HEM turn the hem toward the right side of the garment and crease the fold hard. Divide both ruffle and hem in quarters and mark each division with colored thread. Insert the edge of the ruffle in the hem close to the fold (Ill. 302) with the right side of the ruffle to the right side of the garment and the corresponding marks together. Baste and stitch one-quarter of an inch from the fold. Turn the hem back to the wrong side of the garment, fold the second turning, baste and hem. (Ill. 303.) Ill. 303. Finished Ruffle on Right Side
TO COVER THE JOINING OF A ​Ill. 304. Band Covering Joining of Ruffle RUFFLE, divide both ruffle and garment in quarters and mark with pins or colored thread. Gather the ruffle and baste it to the garment. Turn the raw edges up on the garment and cover with a narrow bias band which can be bought by the piece with the edges turned ready for use. (Ill. 304.) This finish may be used on either the right or wrong side of the garment. Frequently this finish is used on berthas or scalloped edges that are not lined or faced.
Ill. 305. Embroidery Facing EMBROIDERY EDGING USED AS A FACING is shown in Illustration 305. The plain material above the embroidery is applied as the facing. Crease the edging off at the depth it is to extend beyond the garment. Baste the material along the crease so that the seam will come toward the inside of the garment. Then stitch the seam. Now turn the edging down, fold in the raw edge at the top, and hem down as a facing. The facing should be no wider than necessary to make a neat joining.
Ill. 306. Embroidery Joined In a Tuck TO JOIN EMBROIDERY IN A TUCK, make several tucks in the plain material above the embroidery if it is wide enough. Then measure carefully the amount for the space between the tucks, the under part of the tucks, and the seam. Cut away the superfluous material and join the edging to the garment. Crease the tuck with the seam directly in the fold so that the raw edges will be encased in the tuck. When the materials of the garment and the embroidery are similar, and there are several tucks above and below the seam, the joining is imperceptible (Ill. 306).
Ill. 307. Insertion Inset with Rolled Hem EMBROIDERY MAY BE INSERTED by different methods. When a straight-edge insertion is used, the plain material may be cut away at each side of the embroidery. The material of the garment is then cut away under the embroidery, leaving a small seam, which is rolled and whipped to the embroidery as shown in Illustration 307.
A ROLLED HEM may be used as a dainty finish in joining trimming of any kind to a garment of sheer wash material. Hold the wrong side of the material toward you, and, after trimming off all ravelings, begin at the right end and roll the edge toward you tightly between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, keeping the edge rolled for about one and a half inches ahead of the sewing. (Ill. 307.)
​Ill. 308. Insertion Inset by Machine If preferred, a small seam may be left on the insertion as well as on the garment and put together by a tiny French seam. This is the finish most commonly employed.
Embroidery also may be inserted by a machine fell seam. (Ill. 308.) Baste the insertion to the material with a narrow seam on the wrong side. Trim off all ravelings and insert the raw edges in the hemmer of the machine, and stitch as in hemming.
| Ill. 309. Showing Cut for Mitered Corners | Ill. 310. Mitered Embroidery |
EMBROIDERY TRIMMING MAY BE MITERED so that the joining will scarcely be seen. Fold it over so that the crease comes exactly in the middle of the corner, taking care to match the pattern perfectly. Crease firmly, and cut on the creased line. (Ill. 309.) Place the right sides face to face and buttonhole the raw edges together with short, close stitches. Illustration 310 shows the finished corner. The method of making the buttonhole-stitch is shown in Illustration 227 on page 112. Ill. 311. Whipping on Trimming
WHIPPING ON TRIMMING is generally done on an edge. If lace, it should be either gathered by pulling the heavy thread which is usually found at the top, or whipped and drawn as in a ruffle. Roll an inch or two of the garment material, place the lace with its right side to the right side of the material, and whip both together. (Ill. 311.) Lace may be whipped on plain if preferred, but it must be eased in. Insertion may be inset in the same way.
Ill. 312. Showing Cut for Lace Insertion METHODS OF INSERTING LACE and insertion, when the material has a straight edge, are shown in Illustrations 312 and 313. Fold the material for a hem, creasing the lower fold hard. Open the hem and baste the lace edge just below the lower fold, and stitch. (Ill. 312.) Turn back the hem and ​Ill. 313. Finished Effect of Inserting Lace crease the material on a line with the top turning of the hem (Ill. 312). Cut to within a small seam above this crease. Fold in the raw edge, insert the edge of the lace insertion (Ill. 313), and stitch. Turn a second hem, following these directions, baste the other edge of the insertion just below the lower crease, and stitch as before. As many rows of insertion may be used in this manner as are desired.
INSERTION ABOVE A FACING is first basted in position, and the upper edge is finished as shown in Illustration 314. The facing is generally used when the outline of the lower edge is curved or pointed so that it can not be turned up in a straight hem.
| Ill. 314. Lace Insert above Facing | Ill. 315. Lace Insert |
Draw the pull-thread in the lace where a curve requires a slight gathering to make it lie flat. The facing is cut to fit the outline of the lower edge and applied as a false hem, as shown in Illustration 314. When edging is used, it is basted to the bottom before the facing is added and all stitched in a seam together. Turn under the facing at the line of sewing, baste in position and stitch insertion from the right side.
| Ill. 316. Lapping and Matching Lace | Ill. 317. Mitered Lacet |
TO INSERT LACE INSERTION in a garment, pin the lace in the position desired, and baste down both edges of the insertion.
If the insertion is narrow, the material is cut through the center (Ill. 315); but if the insertion is wide, the material is cut away from underneath, simply allowing a seam on each side. The edge is turned in a ​narrow hem covering the line of the basting. Stitch the insertion close to the edges from the right side, and at the same time catching through the material of the hem.
Ill. 318. Joining Lace on a Curve TO MITER LACE—The lace should be cut between the cords, not across them. Overhand the edges together, putting the needle back the depth of two cords. Illustration 316 shows the figures cut around the edge, lapped and hemmed around the figure on each side. For a stronger corner, the lace may be mitered in a very tiny, flat hem. (Ill. 317.)
JOINING ROWS OF LACE TO FIT A CURVE—A shaped piece made of rows of insertion joined together is made over a piece of stiff paper. Cut a piece of stiff paper the correct size and shape of the collar, yoke, etc., that you are making, and baste the rows of insertion to the paper so that the edges of the rows just meet. (Ill. 318.) Begin with the longest row of insertion and baste the longest edge of that row to the paper with the right side down. Draw the pull-thread at the shorter edge of the same row to draw it into a curve. If you are careful in distributing the fulness evenly, most of it can be pressed out unless the curve is very great. Whip the edges of the rows together and press them before removing them from the paper. (Ill. 318.)
TO INSERT LACE MEDALLIONS, baste them to the material and stitch them by machine as close to the edge as possible.
Cut out the material from under the lace, leaving a narrow seam's width at each side. (Ill. 319.)
| Ill. 319. Finishing the Underside of Medallion Inset | Ill. 320. Medallion and Insertion Set in by Machine |
This edge may be turned back and stitched flat by a second row of stitching, leaving a raw edge. Or, it may be overcast closely with the raw edge rolled in to prevent any possible raveling. Illustration 319 shows a medallion set in in this way. Sometimes, where two finished edges come together, they are lapped and stitched together as shown in Illustration 320.