# Voyage in Search of La Pérouse/Volume 2/Chapter 10

VOYAGE
In Search Of
LA PÉROUSE.
CHAP. X.
24th January, 1793.
At five o'clock in the morning I landed near the entrance of our anchoring-place. Along the shore I observed blocks of sand-stone, the de​composition of which had furnished the very fine quartzose sand, on which I walked for some time.
The Esperance had already found a watering-place, in a little cove to the north-west, where there was very good water, easily procured. The brook that furnished it fell into the sea from a height of more than three feet, so that it would readily run into the long-boat through wooden troughs.
We soon reached the head of the bay, where we found a hut, which the savages had constructed with much art. The ingenuity with which they had disposed the bark that covered its roof, excited our admiration; the heaviest rain could not penetrate it. It had an opening in the side towards the sea, and curiosity induced us to enter.
Some of the people on board the Esperance had told us, that the evening before they had seen three natives, sitting round a small fire, close to the hut, who, being frightened by the sound of a gun discharged at a bird, had fled with precipitation. We had soon another proof of their presence at this extremity of the bay; and it appeared to us, that they came regularly to sleep in this hut. In a very short time we repented our entering into it; for the vermin that stuck to our clothes, bit us in a very disagreeable manner.
The tide of flood had raised the sea to a height ​that enabled it to flow within the land, where we saw on it many ducks; but they would not let us approach within a considerable distance of them. From their being thus afraid of man, I infer, that they are not safe from the attacks of the natives.
In the woods we found few insects; but for this we were amply compensated when we returned to the sea-side. As the weather was very fine, the insects had flown thither from all parts; and among the great number of those that had attempted to cross the bay, many termites, and various coleoptera, of very strange shapes. The wind had driven them upon the sand, where we could collect them with great ease.
Next morning, at day-break, we landed near the head of the bay, whence we entered a large valley, which stretches to the south-west, between some very high hills. From the top of one of the highest we could see all the country, as far as the foot of the great mountain, that bore north-west from our ships. The snow still remaining on its summit, rendered the view very picturesque, and by its contrast heightened the beautiful verdure of the large trees, which appeared to grow on it with great vigour.
Many species of embothrium were observed on the declivity of the hills where we were. Lower ​down we perceived springs of clear water, creeping out at several places, and running into a lake, where I saw some pelicans; but unfortunately I was able to fire at them only from a great distance. This lake is in the midst of a large plain, the soil of which, in the lowest parts, consists of clay thoroughly drenched with water, and covered with roots of different plants, which form a bad kind of turf on a shaking bottom. Through this are openings in several places a few feet broad, displaying a very thin mud, covered with water. Near these bogs, I had the pleasure of collecting a great number of plants, among which I remarked several new species of calceolaria and drosera, (sun-dew.)
Continuing our walk, we soon had a vegetable mould under our feet, which I found the same at more than half a yard deep throughout the whole breadth of the valley. The temperature of the climate would be extremely favourable to the cultivation of most of the vegetables of Europe; and a few trenches, dug in proper places, would give a sufficient discharge to the water, to drain almost all the marshes found there, and convert them into fertile soil.
As night approached, we had reached the spot where we landed, and saw there several heaps of oyster-shells, brought by the natives, which had ​induced our fishers to search for them in the bay. At low water they discovered, very near this place, an oyster-bank, from which they took a large quantity; and the flood brought in with it several species of ray, some of which they caught also.
The whole of the 26th I spent in describing and preparing every thing I had collected since our arrival in Rocky Bay. I was astonished at the great variety of productions still afforded me by this part of New Holland, where I had been very diligent in my researches for more than a month the preceding year; though, it is true, several leagues from the places we had now visited, and in a more advanced season, when a great number of plants, that I now found, must have disappeared.
On the following morning, as soon as it began to dawn, we set off, with the design of remaining on shore a couple of days, resolving to pursue our researches to a considerable distance from our place of anchorage. We landed in the south-west, and followed a path, traced nearly in that direction by the natives, where we observed tolerably recent marks of naked feet, among which were some of very young children. No doubt, some families, alarmed by our stay in Rocky Bay, ​had gone in quest of another retreat, where they deemed themselves in more safety.
After an hour's walk, we rested in a low place, where the waters from the neighbouring hills were collected. To several species of leptospermum this moisture was so well suited, that they had grown up to very large trees; though all that I had hitherto found in other places were but little shrubs. Some here were more than thirty yards high, though the trunk was not eight inches in diameter. One species was remarkable for its bark, which was about an inch thick, and composed of a great number of flakes, lying one over another, very easily separable, and as thin as the finest Chinese paper. This singular organization of the bark occurs only in New Holland: it is nearly the same in the eucalyptus resinifera; and I had observed it also on the south-west coast of this country, on two large trees, one belonging to the family of protea, the other to the myrtles.
We soon found a current of air opposite to the strong breezes from the south-west. Near we saw the marks of a fire, which appeared to have been lately burning. The natives had left there part of a stalk of fucus palmatus (the palmated or sweet fucus,) which the natives eat, after they ​have broiled it, as we had afterwards an opportunity of seeing.
The south-west wind, which had been preceded by a great descent of the quicksilver in the barometer, blew in the afternoon in violent gusts, which brought on rain just as we reached the seashore near South Cape. Fortunately a shrub of the rutaceous family afforded us an excellent shelter by its bushy thickness. This shrub grows vigorously on these heights, notwithstanding its being exposed to all the impetuosity of the violent winds that prevail on these coasts.
To this new genus I have given the name of mazeutoxeron.
The calyx is bell-shaped, and four-toothed.
The petals are attached to the bottom of the calyx.
The stamens, eight in number, are fixed to the receptacle.
The germen is oval. The style is not quite so long as the stamens. The stigma has four divisions.
​The capsule has four cells, each of which is formed of two valves; and is covered with hairs.
Each cell contains two or three seeds, nearly spherical.
The leaves are opposite, rounded, covered with thick down, and of a sallow colour underneath.
The flowers are solitary, and placed at the insertions of the leaves.
To this shrub I give the name of mazeutoxeron rufum.
Explanation of the Figures, Plate XVII.
Fig. 1. A branch.
Fig. 2. The flower.
Fig. 3. The petal.
Fig. 4. The petals removed to show the stamens.
Fig. 5. The stamens magnified.
Fig. 6. The capsule.
We walked some way to the north across hillocks of sand, before we got down to the beach, the windings of which we followed with great ease for a considerable distance; but at length we were stopped by a mountain, which terminated in a cliff; where it advanced into the sea. We attempted to go round it on the land side, ​ Mazeutoxeron Rufum ​but found it impossible to penetrate through the thickets, by which it was environed.
Night coming on, we returned in search of a convenient place to pass the night near a rivulet, which we had crossed. A thick bush was the best shelter we could find; and this we increased by the addition of branches from others, so that we expected to have been perfectly secure against any inconvenience from the wind. But the gale from the south-west blew so strong during the night, that the rain penetrated our covering on all sides; and to heighten our distress, the cold was very piercing, which drove most of us near the fire, though there we were still more exposed to the wet, than in our sort of hut.
28th. As soon as day broke, we quitted our uncomfortable lodging, and crossed the downs, that surrounded us. In some places, where the sand appeared lately to have fallen down, I observed, that these sand hills appeared to rest partly on a very hard steatite, of a dark grey colour, partly on sandstone. Presently after I observed from the borders of the shore a very large rock, standing in the sea, and not far from the land, which exhibited on all sides the same species of steatite. This rock, which is very high, is pierced at one of its extremities.
The waves had separated from the bottom of ​the sea much sponge of the species called spongia cancellata, great quantities of which we saw thrown upon the shore.
In the midst of these downs grew a new species of plantain, which I call plantago tricuspidata, from the form of its leaves. This must be reckoned among the most useful plants, which this country affords for the food of man. The hope of finding some vegetables fit to eat as sallad had induced the most provident among us, to bring the necessary sauce, and the sallad furnished by the leaves of this plant, which were very tender, was highly relished by all the company.
Several kinds of grass, among which I noticed many new species of fescue (festuca), served to bind the sand together. A new geranium, with an herbaceous stalk, very small, and with leaves deeply cut, was among the number of plants I collected. It was the first plant of the genus, that I found in this country.
I had observed several burrows made in the ground, where the sand had sufficient solidity, but I knew not by what animal they were formed; when a kangarou of a middle size started up at our approach, and ran into one of them. We fired in several times, hoping the smoke would drive him out, but he would not quit his hole.
Several tracks of kangarous through a little ​wood roused the ardour of two of our shooters, who were with us; and they soon got sight of several of these animals in the midst of a meadow watered by a delightful rivulet, but all of them were too shy to be approached.
At length we got on board, greatly fatigued for want of sleep, as we had not closed our eyes for more than forty hours.
29th. The four subsequent days I employed in visiting the environs of the place where we lay at anchor. Toward the south-south-east I found a fine tree, which appeared to me to belong to the family of coniferæ, judging by the disposition of its stamens, and the resinous smell of every part: but I was never able to procure any of its fruit, though I afterwards saw several trees of the same kind. No doubt the season was not yet far enough advanced; and the stamens, which I observed, appeared to have remained ever since the preceding year. I mention this tree, not only on account of the singularity of its leaves for a tree of this family, for they are broad, and deeply indented on their edges, but for their utility in making beer. They afforded a bitter and aromatic extract, which I imagined might be used as that of spruce; and on making a trial of it with malt, I found that I was not mistaken.
This fine tree is often a yard in thickness, and ​twenty-five or thirty yards high. Its wood is very hard, of a reddish colour, and susceptible of a fine polish.
The thick woods we had to the north-north-west of our ships furnished a great number of trees of a moderate height, which grew extremely well, notwithstanding the shade of the vast eucalyptus globulus.
I shall give some account of a new genus of the family of the hypericums, which constituted the ornament of these solitary places, and which I call carpodontos.
The calyx has four scarious leaves, united at the upper part: they fall off as the corolla unfolds itself.
The corolla is formed of four petals, attached beneath the germen.
The stamens are numerous, (thirty or forty.)
The germen is elongated, and surmounted with six or seven styles, each of which has an acute stigma.
The capsule opens into six or seven valves, woody, cleft internally throughout their whole length, and bidentated at their superior extremity.
The seeds are few, and flattened.
This tree, which does not reach a height of more than eight or ten yards, is but slender.
​ Carpodontos Lucida ​Its leaves are oval, opposite, coriaceous, shining, and covered with a thin film of resin, which transudes from the upper part: the under part is whitish, and the lateral ribs are scarecly perceptible on it.
I have given it the name of carpodontos lucida.
Explanation of the Figures, Plate XVII.
Fig. 1. Branch of the carpodontos lucida.
Fig. 2: Flower with the calyx already separated at its base.
Fig. 3. Flower viewed in front.
Fig. 4. Posterior part of the flower, where the calyx may be observed, which sometimes remains attached to it by one of its scales, after the corolla is unfolded.
Fig. 5. The petal.
Fig. 6. The stamens magnified.
Fig. 7. The germen.
Fig. 8. The capsule.
February 2d. We had planned a visit to the highest of the mountains in this part of New Holland, the various sites of which gave us hopes of a great number of new productions. Each of us took provision for five days, which we presumed would afford us sufficient time for our purpose. Accordingly we set off very early in the morning, with a tolerable stock of biscuit, cheese, ​bacon, and brandy, our usual store on distant excursions.
When we had proceeded about half way on the road we had before taken, in our journey to South Cape, we found an extensive opening through the woods, which facilitated our progress westerly, as far as the foot of the hills, that we were obliged to cross; and then we plunged into the midst of the woods, with no other guide but the compass.
We directed our way to the north, advancing slowly from the obstacles presented us at every step by vast trees lying one upon another. Most of these, blown down by the violence of the winds, had torn up in their fall part of the soil that bore them; others, that had fallen in consequence of their age, were every where rotten, and the lower part of their trunks was frequently seen standing amidst the wreck of their upper parts, that lay in huge heaps around.
After a very laborious walk, we at length reached the summit of a mountain, whence we perceived to the south the middle of the roadstead of South Cape, and to the north-west the large mountain, toward which we directed our steps.
Night soon obliging us to halt, we kindled a large fire, round which we reposed; and a comfortable sleep dissipated the fatigues of the day. ​We slept in the open air, for we should have found it difficult, to construct a shelter in a short time among the large trees, as their branches were mostly near the summit, and this part of the forest was destitute of shrubs. We looked in vain for some large trunks hollowed by fire; these are to be found only in places frequented by the natives. We had seen a great number on the borders of the sea, where we had observed many paths, which the natives had cleared; but nothing gave us any intimation that they had ever come into the midst of these thick forests.
The air was extremely calm; and about midnight I awaked, when, solitary in the midst of these silent woods, the majesty of which was half disclosed to me by the feeble gleam of the stars, I felt myself penetrated with a sentiment of admiration of the grandeur of nature, which it is beyond my power to express.
3d. At day-break we resumed our journey in the same direction as before. Our difficulties increased more and more. The trunks of trees lying one upon another often presented an almost impenetrable barrier, obliging us to climb to the uppermost, and then to walk from tree to tree, at the hazard of a fall from a considerable height; for several were covered with a spongy bark, so wet with the damp continually prevailing in these ​thick woods, that our path was extremely slippery, as well as difficult.
The day was considerably advanced, when we arrived at the summit of a mountain, from which we perceived the whole extent of a long valley, which we had still to cross, before we could reach the foot of the mountains, which we had set out to visit. The intermediate space appeared to be about eighteen miles; and this space was occupied by forests, as thick as those through which we had just penetrated. It was to be apprehended, that it would take us upwards of two days, to reach the end of our intended journey; even if we were not retarded by extensive marshes, or other obstacles, which we could not possibly foresee. It would require nearly as long a time to return; and from this calculation, our provision would be expended three days before the termination of our journey. These forests in the mean time afforded nothing that could contribute to our subsistence; and consequently we were obliged to relinquish our design.
The great chain of mountains appeared to stretch from the north-east to the south-west, through a vast extent of country.
In the forests we had just traversed, we found the same kind of stones which we had already met with towards South Cape. Seeing this Cape ​south by east, we took this direction, and went to spend the night on the skirts of the forest, near a rivulet, which runs to the foot of the mountains.
4th. The difficulty of penetrating through the woods, made us resolve in future to follow the shore as far as we could, and avail ourselves of the openings that terminated on it, to proceed into the interior part of the country. In this manner we could traverse a considerable extent of ground in little time; but it was necessary for us first to pass the cliff that projected into the sea, and had stopped us a few days before. By fresh attempts at length we succeeded, and, after surmounting the greatest difficulties, we penetrated through the thick woods that opposed our passage. On quitting these we were able to continue our journey along the sea-side, the way being sufficiently easy, as the mountain terminated at the shore by a gentle slope: but we were soon obliged to climb over steep rocks, at the foot of which the sea broke in a tremendous manner. This road, notwithstanding its difficulty, was frequented by the natives, for we found in it one of their spears. This weapon was no more than a very straight long stick, which they had not taken the pains to smooth, but which was pointed at each end.
​The side of the mountains being exposed for a considerable extent, we observed a horizontal vein of coal, the greatest thickness of which did not exceed four inches. We noticed it for the space of more than three hundred yards. The stratum beneath it was sand stone; that above, a dark brown schist. From these indications I presume, that excellent coal may be found in abundance at a greater depth. It is well known, that the richest mines of this fuel are commonly found beneath sandstone.
The rust, with which I perceived the water, that trickled from the rocks, highly coloured, was the first indication these mountains afforded me of their containing iron; but it was not long before I found fine fragments of hematites of a bronze red colour, and farther on an ochry earth of a tolerably bright red. Small separate fragments of tripoli also were scattered about in the way we took; probably separated from the higher strata, which we could not distinguish, as they were covered by the earth that tumbled down in large masses.
Several new species of lobelia grew out from the clefts of the rocks, which became more and more steep. Some of them were perpendicular cliffs, more than two hundred yards in height above the level of the sea. Very recent marks of ​the earth having tumbled down made us resolve to take our way through the woods, and not to approach the cliffs again without the greatest caution.
For some time we proceeded amid shrubs, most of which were of the heath family (erica), or that of diospyros.
Our attention was soon called to a fearful sound, the repetitions of which seemed to obey the motions of the waves, and with the greatest astonishment we beheld the terrible spectacle of the destructive effects of the sea, continually undermining these cliffs. The base of an enormous rock was already buried in the waves, while its summit was hollowed into a vast arch, suspended at the height of more than two hundred yards, which, by reverberating the sound, increased the noise of the reiterated dashings of the impetuous waves that broke against its sides.
Having passed the first two capes to the west of South Cape, we returned towards the latter, where we spent a very bad night, for unfortunately we were at no great distance from some stagnant waters, and the extreme calmness of the air exposed us to all the fury of the moschettoes.
5th. Morning being the time of low water, we hoped to be enabled, by its means, to procure some shell-fish, of which the bad quality of our ​provision made us feel a pressing want: but the breeze setting in from the sea disappointed us, by raising the water nearly as high as it would have been at flood tide. Thus we were obliged to content ourselves with our salt provision.
The cascade at South Cape, from which a great deal of water fell into the sea, when Captain Furneaux landed there, was nearly dry at this time. From the marks of its bed, however, it was easy to perceive that its run must be considerable in the rainy season.
We found a dead seal on the shore, of the species called phoca monacus. Two severe contusions on its head gave us reason to suppose, that it had been driven against some rocks by the violence of the waves, which it had not strength to surmount.
Bending our course toward our anchoring-place, we found two large pools to the east-north-east of South Cape; and as we went round them, we saw on their borders several burrows of kangarous. A new species of utricularia displayed its beautiful flowers on the surface of their tranquil waters. I was astonished that these stagnant pools did not exhale a fetid smell, as is usually the case; but it is probable, that the water is speedily renewed by filtering through the ground.
It was three o'clock in the afternoon when we ​arrived on board. One of the gunners of the Esperance, named Boucher, we learned had died, during our absence, of a consumption.
6th and 7th. After having described and prepared the subjects of natural history, which I had collected the preceding days, I employed the remainder of my time in visiting the low lands to the south-east. The woods here were easily penetrated, as the trees stood at some distance from each other. Almost every where I found the soil an excellent mould. I cut specimens of several sorts of wood, to find out the different uses for which each might be employed. That fine tree, which I imagine to be of the coniferous family, and which I have already mentioned, gave considerable resistance to the saw: no doubt it will furnish the most compact timber of any of that family.
It had long been my wish, that the greater part of the seeds we had brought from Europe, capable of succeeding in this climate, might be sown on this part of the coast in a good mould sufficiently watered: but on my return I saw with regret that a very dry and very sandy spot, pretty near the head of the bay, had been dug up and sown.
Early in the morning of the 8th, the gardener and I, with two of the crew, set off for port ​Dentrecasteaux, intending to spend two days in examining its environs. We landed at the mouth of the harbour, on its western side; and fortunately found ourselves on a bank of oysters, of which we collected an abundant store.
It was with pleasure we saw once more a place, which we had visited several times the preceding year. Most of the little rivulets we had then met with, and even that where we procured our water, were now dry.
We soon reached the head of the harbour, and found, as we proceeded up the river, very close and marshy thickets, which often retarded our progress.
Snakes are not common at Diemen's Cape, yet I saw two, sleeping in the sun, on large trunks of trees; on our approach they withdrew into the hollow trunks, that served them for a retreat. They were of the species I had found the year before, which is by no means dangerous.
Though the course of the river was obstructed by large trees at almost every step, we were obliged to go up it near a mile and half, before we could find one, by means of which we could cross to the opposite bank without too great difficulty.
From this place we proceeded north-east, tra​versing very commodiously a spacious plain, part of the vegetables growing on which had lately been burned by the natives. In a short time we reached the head of the great lake, along the borders of which we walked as far as the sea, and having travelled over a considerable extent of ground, we returned to its extremity, to spend the night near a rivulet, which we had already crossed. As the weather was very fine, we lay down to sleep in the open air, sheltered solely by large trunks of trees, that lay on the ground; but the piercing cold we felt soon obliged us to kindle a large fire.
It is remarkable, that the temperature of the air, at this extremity of New Holland, is sometimes 17° lower in the night than it was in the day. (From 23° to 6° of the mercurial thermometer graduated according to Reaumur, which is always to be understood). In fact this narrow land, lying in a pretty high latitude, is not very capable of long retaining the heat, which has been imparted to it by the rays of the sun. This great difference of temperature was very inconvenient to us, as it obliged us to encumber ourselves with clothes, which we found very troublesome in the day. I must observe, however, that the variation of the thermometer on board at the same time did not exceed 5° or 6°.
​9th. As soon as day-light appeared, while the two men that accompanied us were still asleep, the gardener and I proceeded towards the part of the lake opposite that which we had visited the evening before.
I had the pleasure of collecting several species of mimosa with simple leaves, all the parts of fructification of which were unfolded. I had already some specimens, but they were very imperfect.
After walking at least a couple of miles, we fancied we heard human voices before us. Redoubling our attention, we advanced a few steps, when a sudden cry, arising from several voices united, issued from one spot, and we perceived through the trees a number of the natives, most of whom appeared to be fishing on the borders of the lake. As we were unarmed, and ignorant of their intentions, we did not hesitate to return to our companions, each of whom had a musket; and immediately crossed through the wood, that the savages might not see us, lest they should be tempted to pursue us, on perceiving our flight.
When we had told our men the occasion of our return, I expressed my strong desire to have an interview with these people. It was necessary first, however, to prepare our means of defence, so that we might be able to avail ourselves of ​them in case of an assault. Accordingly we got ready a few cartridges, as fast as we could, and set out towards the place, where we had seen the natives. It was now only nine o'clock. We had gone only a few steps before we met them. The men and youths were ranged in front, nearly in a semi-circle: the women, children, and girls, were a few paces distant behind. As their manner did not appear to indicate any hostile design, I hesitated not to go up to the oldest, who accepted, with a very good grace, a piece of biscuit I offered him, of which he had seen me eat. I then held out my hand to him as a sign of friendship, and had the pleasure to perceive, that he comprehended my meaning very well: he gave me his, inclining himself a little, and raising at the same time the left foot, which he carried backward in proportion as he bent his body forward. These motions were accompanied by a pleasing smile.
My companions also advanced up to the others, and immediately the best understanding prevailed among us. They received with great joy the neck-cloths which we offered them: the young people approached nearer to us; and one of them had the generosity to give me a few small shells of the whelk kind, pierced near the middle, and strung like a necklace. This ornament, which he called ​canlaride, was the only one he possessed, and he wore it round his head. A handkerchief supplied the place of this present, gratifying the utmost wishes of my savage, who advanced toward me, that I might tie it round his head for him, and who expressed the greatest joy, as he lifted his hand up to feel it again and again. We wore abundance of clothes, as I have already observed, on account of the coldness of the nights; and we bestowed the greater part on these islanders.
The women were very desirous of coming nearer to us; and though the men made signs to them, to keep at a distance, their curiosity was ready every moment to break through all other considerations. The gradual increase of confidence, however, that took place, obtained them permission to approach. It appeared to us very astonishing, that in so high a latitude, where, at a period of the year so little advanced as the present, we already experienced the cold at night to be pretty severe, these people did not feel the necessity of clothing themselves. Even the women were for the most part entirely naked, as well as the men. Some of them only had the shoulders and part of the back covered with a kangarou's skin, worn with the hair next the body: and among these we observed two, each of whom had an infant at the breast. The sole ​garment of one was a strip of kangarou's skin, about two inches broad, which was wrapped six or seven times round the waist; another had a collar of skin round the neck; and some had a slender cord bound several times round the head. I afterwards learned, that most of these cords were fabricated from the bark of a shrub of the spurge family, very common in this country.
A pole-axe, which we used for cutting off some branches from the trees, excited the admiration of these people. As they perceived us willing to give them any thing in our possession, they did not scruple to beg it; and when we granted their request, they were overcome with joy. They were fully sensible of the value of our knives, likewise; and received a few tin vessels with pleasure. When I shewed them my watch, it attracted their desire; and one of them, in particular, expressed his wish to possess it: but he quickly desisted from his request, when he found, that I was not willing to part with it.
The readiness with which we gave them our things, no doubt, led them to presume, that they might take any thing belonging to us, without asking for it: this obliged us to set bounds to their desires; but we found, to our great satisfaction, that they returned to us, without the ​least resistance, such things as we could not dispense with for our own use.
I had given them several articles, without requiring any thing in return: but I wished to get a kangarou's skin, when, among the savages about us, there happened to be only a young girl, who had one. When I proposed to her, to give it me in exchange for a pair of pantaloons, she ran away, to hide herself in the woods. The other natives appeared truly hurt at her refusal, and called to her several times. At length she yielded to their intreaties, and came to bring me the skin. Perhaps it was from timidity only, that she could not prevail on herself to part with this kind of garment; in return for which she received a pair of pantaloons, less useful to her, according to the customs of the ladies in this country, than the skin, which served to cover the shoulders. We shewed her the manner of wearing them; but, notwithstanding, it was necessary for us, to put them on for her ourselves. To this she yielded with the best grace in the world, resting both her hands on our shoulders, to support herself, while she lifted up first one leg, then the other, to put them into this new garment. Desirous of avoiding every cause of offence, we behaved with all the gravity we could on the occasion.
​ Woman of Van Diemen's Land ​This party of savages consisted of two and forty, seven of whom were men, eight women: the rest appeared to be their children; and among these we observed several marriageable girls, still less clothed than most of the mothers. We invited them all to come and sit near our fire; and when they arrived there, one of the savages informed us by unequivocal signs, that he had come to reconnoitre us during the night. That we might understand he had seen us asleep, he inclined his head on one side, laying it on the palm of his right hand, and closing his eyes; and with the other he pointed out the spot, where we had passed the night. He then acquainted us, by signs equally expressive, that he was at the time on the other side of the brook, whence he observed us. In fact, one of us had been awakened about the middle of the night by a rustling among the branches, and had even fancied, that he heard some broken off: but, being greatly fatigued, he had soon fallen asleep again, persuaded it was a kangarou, that had come to visit us. Our fire had been a guide to this native, whom the party had sent to reconnoitre us: while we had slept with the utmost tranquillity, notwithstanding we had been at the mercy of these savages the whole night. One of the men that accompanied us, then said, that in the evening, at sun​set, he perceived some smoke on the other side of the lake, whence he presumed, that some of the natives were assembled there; but he forgot to mention it to us, when we joined them.
We were desirous of showing these savages the effects of our fire-arms, after having given them to understand, that they had nothing to fear. They appeared, however, to be a little frightened at their report.
These people have woolly hair, and let their beards grow. Plates VI, VII, and VIII, will give more accurate ideas of their persons, and exhibit the characteristics that distinguish them more strikingly, than a long and minute description. It may be observed (Plate VII), that in the children the upper jaw advances considerably beyond the lower; but sinking as they grow up, both jaws are nearly even in the adult. Their skin is not of a very deep black; but no doubt they consider extreme blackness as a beauty, for, in order to heighten this colour beyond its natural state, they rub themselves over, particularly on the upper parts of the body, with powdered charcoal.
On their skin, particularly on the breast and shoulders, may be observed tubercles symmetrically arranged, exhibiting sometimes lines four inches in length, at other times points placed at different distances. The application, by which ​ Child of Van Diemen's Land.Man of Van Diemen's Land. ​these risings were produced, had not destroyed the cellular membrane, however, for they were of the same colour as the rest of the skin.
The custom of extracting two of the front teeth of the upper jaw, which, from the accounts of some voyagers, had been supposed general among the inhabitants of this country, certainly has not been introduced into this tribe; for we did not see one among them, in whom a single tooth of the upper jaw was wanting; and indeed they had all very good teeth.
One of the sailors, that accompanied us, thought he could not regale them better than with a glass of brandy: but, accustomed to drink nothing but water, they quickly spit it out, and it seemed to have given them a very disagreeable sensation.
These savages, going completely naked, are liable to wound themselves, particularly in the lower extremities, when they pass through the woods. We observed one, who walked with difculty, and one of whose feet was wrapped up in a piece of skin.
I had not perceived the young girls for some time, and imagined that they had all retired into the woods; but happening to look behind me, I saw, with surprise, seven who had perched themselves on a stout limb of a tree, more than three ​yards from the ground, whence they attentively watched our slightest movements. As they all squatted on the bough, they formed a pleasing group.
We were at a considerable distance from the shore, where a boat was to wait for us, to take us on board. It was time for us to be on our way toward it. We were quitting this peaceable party with regret, when we saw the men and four of the youths separating from the rest, in order to accompany us. One of the most robust presently went into the wood, whence he returned almost instantly, holding in his hand two long spears. As he came near, he made signs to us, that we need be under no apprehensions: on the contrary, it appeared as if he were desirous of protecting us with his arms. No doubt they had left their weapons in the wood, when they came to meet us in the morning, that they might give us no alarm.
The other natives, whom we had just quitted, approached our party. Immediately on our requesting him, who carried the spears, to give us a specimen of his dexterity, he grasped one of them with the right hand near the middle, then raising it as high as his head, and holding it horizontally, he drew it back toward himself three times following with a jerk, which gave it a very ​perceptible tremulous movement at each extremity, when he darted it forward near a hundred paces. The weapon, supported throughout its whole length by the column of air beneath it, flew in a tolerably horizontal direction more than three fourths of the distance. The tremulous motion impressed on it contributed, unquestionably, to accelerate its progress, and to support it longer in the air.
The savage was very ready to gratify our wishes, by launching his spear several times following. He then aimed at an object, which we pointed out to him, and every time was near enough to it, to give us a high idea of his skill. Presently after another showed us two holes in a kangarou's skin, which had been made apparently with the point of a spear, giving us thus to understand, that they employed this weapon to kill these animals. In reality, they launched it with sufficient force to pierce the animal through and through.
At length we parted with our new guides, whose pace was sufficiently slow for us to follow them with ease. It seemed as if they were not accustomed to take a long walk without interruption: for we had scarcely been half an hour on our way, before they invited us to sit down, saying mèdi; and we immediately stopped. This halt lasted but a few minutes, when they rose, ​saying to us tangara, which signifies "let us set off." On this we resumed our journey: and they made us halt again, in the same manner, four times, at nearly equal distances.
The attentions lavished on us by these savages astonished us. If our path were interrupted by heaps of dry branches, some of them walked before, and removed them to either side: they even broke off such as stretched across our way from the trees that had fallen down.
We could not walk on the dry grass without slipping every moment, particularly where the ground was sloping; but these good savages, to prevent our falling, took hold of us by the arm, and thus supported us. We found it difficult to persuade them that none of us would fall, even if unassisted; and they continued, nevertheless, to bestow on us these marks of affectionate kindness: nay, they frequently stationed themselves, one on each side, to support us the better. As they obstinately persisted in paying us this obliging attention, we no longer declined it.
They no doubt conceived it to be our intention to return to Port Dentrecasteaux, for we were twice mistaken in the road, and they both times pointed out to us that which led directly to it.
A trifling incident gave us reason to presume, that they sometimes catch birds with their hands. ​A paroquet, of the species figured in Plate X. which I shall describe presently, flew by us, and pitched on the ground at a little distance. Immediately two of the young savages set off to catch it, and were on the point of putting their hands upon it, when the bird took wing.
It may be presumed, that there are no snakes at Diemen's Cape, the bite of which is to be dreaded: at least, if there be any such, the natives well know how to distinguish them. They pointed out one to us, gliding through the grass very near them, yet they did not appear to be under the least apprehension from it.
At length they brought us near the place, where we had anchored the year before. The oldest of them was very thirsty; and immediately made one of the youths fetch him an oyster-shell, to serve as a cup, which he emptied several times before his thirst was quenched.
As we were very near the garden, which had been formed the preceding year by Citizen Lahaye, gardener to the expedition, we resolved to visit it, and took the opportunity, when the savages had seated themselves. We wished to leave them with our two sailors, lest they should go and do any injury to such vegetables as might have succeeded; but one of them was resolved to accompany us. He examined attentively the plants ​in the garden, and pointed them out with his finger, appearing to distinguish them perfecty from their indigenous vegetables. We saw, with regret, that there remained only a small number of cabbages, a few potatoes, some radishes, cresses, wild succory, and sorrel, all in a bad condition: no doubt they would have succeeded better, had they been sown nearer a rivulet, which we observed to the west. I expected to have found some cresses at least sown on its banks; that I did not must surely have been owing to forgetfulness on the part of the gardener.
Our boat was not yet arrived. We were very desirous that these savages should have a near view of it; and we hoped, likewise, to be able to prevail on some of them to go on board with us; but they were already leaving us to rejoin their families. At our invitation, however, they deferred their departure, and we walked together along the beach toward the entrance of the harbour. Some trees, that lay on the ground along the shore, gave them an opportunity of displaying their agility to us by leaping over them. We were too much fatigued to give them an exhibition of what we were capable of doing; but I believe, savages as they were, they would have found themselves excelled by an European tolerably expert at this exercise.
​As soon as the boat came, we invited some of them to go on board her with us. After taking a long while to resolve on it, three of them consented to get into the boat; but it appeared that they had no intention to quit their party, for they got out again in great haste, as soon as we prepared to push off from the shore.
We then saw them walk with tranquillity along the sea-side, looking toward us from time to time, and uttering cries of joy.
10th. The next day we returned in a large party to these savages.
We rowed along the shore, beyond Port Dentrecasteaux, for some time, when a fire we perceived not far from the sea-side induced us to land.
Some of the natives soon came to meet us, expressing by their cries the pleasure they felt at seeing us again.
Our musician had brought on shore his violin, imagining that he should excite as much enthusiasm among them by some noisy tunes, as we had observed in the islanders at Bouka; but his self-love was truly mortified, at the indifference shown to his performance here. Savages, in general, are not very sensible to the tones of stringed instruments.
As we ascended the heights that skirt the sea, we soon found a party of those natives, by whom ​we had been so civilly received the day before. A lively joy was depicted on all their features, when they saw us drawing near. There were nineteen of them round three small fires, making their meal on bernacles, which they roasted on the coals, and ate as fast as they were ready. Every now and then some of the women went to pick these shell-fish from under the neighbouring rocks, and did not return till they had filled their baskets with them. On the same fires we observed them broil that species of sea-wrack, which is called fucus palmatus, and when it was softened to a certain point, they tore it to pieces to eat it.
The pains taken by one of the mothers to quiet her infant, yet at the breast, who cried at the first sight of us, appeared to us very engaging. She could not pacify him, till she covered his eyes with her hand, that he might not see us.
None of these people appeared with arms: but, probably, they had left them in the wood near; for several of us having expressed an intention of going into it, one of the savages urgently entreated them not to go that way. Our people did not persist in it, lest they should give them some cause of mistrust: part of the boat's crew, however, in order to deceive the vigilance of this centinel, walked a little way along the shore, that they might enter the wood, without being ob​served by him; but no sooner did one of the women perceive their design, than she uttered horrible cries, to give notice to the other savages, who intreated them to return toward the sea.
We did not know to what to ascribe their repugnance for our viands, but they would taste none that we offered them. They would not even suffer their children to eat the sugar we gave them, being very careful to take it out of their mouths the moment they were going to taste it. Yet their confidence in us was so great, that one of the women, who was suckling a child, was not afraid to entrust it to several of us.
I imagined that these people, passing most of their nights in the open air, in a climate of which the temperature is so variable, must have been subject to violent inflammations of the eyes: yet all of them appeared to have their sight very good, one only excepted, who had a cataract.
Some of them sat on kangarou's skins, and some others had a little pillow, which they called roéré, near a quarter of a yard long, and covered with skin, on which they rested one of their elbows.
We observed with surprize, the singular posture of the women, when they sit on the ground. Though for the most part they are entirely naked, it appears to be a point of decorum with these ​ladies, as they sit with their knees asunder, to cover with one foot, what modesty bids them conceal in that situation.
These people seemed to be so nearly in a state of nature, that their most trifling actions appeared to me worthy of observation. I shall not pass over in silence, therefore, the correction a father gave one of his children, for having thrown a stone at the back of another younger than himself: it was merely a light slap on the shoulder, which made him shed tears, and prevented his doing so again.
The painter to the expedition expressed to these savages a wish of having his skin covered like theirs with the powder of charcoal. His request, as might naturally be supposed, was favourably received; and immediately one of the natives selected some of the most friable coals, which he ground to powder by rubbing them between his hands. This powder he applied to all the parts of the body that were uncovered, employing nothing to make it adhere beside the rubbing of the hand, and our friend Piron was presently as black as a New-Hollander. The savage appeared highly satisfied with his performance, which he finished by gently blowing off the dust that adhered very slightly, taking particular care to remove all that might have gotten into the eyes.
​When we departed for Port Dentrecasteaux, more than half these peaceable natives rose to accompany us. Four young girls also were of the party, who received with indifference the garments we gave them, and, that they might not be encumbered with an useless burden, immediately hung them on the bushes near the path, intending, no doubt, to take them with them on their return. As a proof that they set little value on such presents, we did not see on any of them one of the garments that we had given them the day before. Three of these young women were marriageable, and all of them were of very cheerful dispositions. In one of them it was observed that the right breast had acquired its full size, while the left was still perfectly flat. This temporary deformity had no effect on the liveliness of her manner. They several times ran races on the shore, which was very smooth, and some of us endeavoured to catch them; when we had the pleasure to see, that Europeans could frequently run better than these savages.
The men followed with a grave pace, each carrying his hands resting one against the other upon his loins; or sometimes the left hand passing behind the back, and grasping the right arm about the middle.
No doubt we lost much by not understanding ​the language of these natives, for one of the girls said a great deal to us; she talked a long while with extraordinary volubility; though she must have perceived that we could not comprehend her meaning; no matter, she must talk.
The others attempted more than once to charm us by songs, with the modulation of which I was singularly struck, from the great analogy of the tunes to those of the Arabs in Asia Minor. Several times two of them sung the same tune at once, but always one a third above the other, forming a concord with the greatest justness.
Amid these sands grew a species of ficoides, in almost every point resembling the mesembryanthemum edule, or eatable fig-marigold of the Hottentots. It differed completely in the colour of the flowers, indeed, which were red, while those of the fig-marigold of the Hottentots are yellow; but it bore fruit like it, much resembling in flavour a very ripe apple. This fruit is a delicacy among the New-Hollanders, who seek for it with care, and eat it as soon as they find it.
During this long walk, some of our companions took us by the arm from time to time to assist us.
One of the young girls having perceived at a distance a head, which the gunner of the Esperance had carved on the stump of a tree, appear​ed at first extremely surprized, and stopped short for a moment. She then went up to it with us, and, after having considered it attentively, named to us the different parts, pointing them out at the same time with the hand.
Soon after we arrived at the entrance of Port Dentrecasteaux.
Two of the young girls followed the different windings of the shore without mistrust, at a distance from the other natives, with three of our sailors, when these took the opportunity of one of the most retired places, to treat them with a degree of freedom, which was received in a very different manner from what they had hoped. The young women immediately fled to the rocks most advanced into the sea, and appeared ready to leap into it, and swim away, if our men had followed them. They presently repaired to the place, where we were assembled with the other savages; but it seems they did not disclose this adventure, for the most perfect harmony continued to prevail between us.
Wishing to know whether these islanders were expert swimmers, one of our officers jumped into the water, and dived several times; but it was in vain that he invited them to follow his example. They are very good divers, however, as we had afterwards an opportunity of seeing, for it is by ​diving they procure a considerable part of their food. We invited them to eat with us some oysters and lobsters, which we had just roasted on the coals; but they all refused, one excepted, who tasted a lobster. At first we imagined that it was yet too early for their meal-time; but in this we were mistaken, for it was not long before they took their repast. They themselves, however, dressed their food, which was shell-fish of the same kinds, but much more roasted than what we had offered them.
We observed some of the savages employed in cutting little bits of wood in the form of a spatula, and smoothing them with a shell, for the purpose of separating from the rocks limpets and sea-ears, on which they feast as they get ready.
The time for our returning on board arrived, but none of the natives would accompany us, they all leaving us, and retiring into the woods.
11th. The engineer-geographer of the Recherche went in the barge on the 11th in the morning, to examine the extent of the vast bay that is at the entrance of Dentrecasteaux strait. For this strait we were soon to set sail.
In the course of the day we quitted all the places we had occupied on shore during our stay in Rocky Bay. The repairs of both vessels were finished. The trial made the year before of the ​ Black Spotted Parroquet of Van Diemen's Land. ​wood of the eucalyptus globulus, induced our carpenters to employ it in preference to the other species of the same genus.
For my part I entered into the thick woods to the north-west of us. Several species of shrubs, of the pistacia family, grow under the shade of the large trees; and the fagara evodia distinguished itself by its beautiful foliage. In these gloomy places the eye rested with pleasure on the carpodontos lucida, the branches of which were quite covered with fine white flowers.
As I advanced toward the south-west, I crossed some open spots, where I killed a beautiful species of paroquet, which I distinguish by the name of the black-spotted paroquet of Diemen's Cape (See Plate X.). I had already met with it in several other places, but always such as were low, and destitute of covert. Very different from the known species of the same genus, it does not perch, for I uniformly observed it rise from among the grass, on which it almost immediately settled again. The shape of the feet, which are furnished with very long claws but little curved, sufficiently indicate the manners of the bird. Its plumage is green, spotted with black; some of the spots being surrounded with little yellowish bands. The under part of the wings is ashen-grey, with a broad band of pale yellow. Under the belly the ​black and yellow predominate. The under feathers of the tail are remarkable for transverse bands, alternately black and pale yellow. A few small reddish feathers are observable at the base of the beak at the upper part of the superior mandible.
12th. The next day a great number of us, from both ships, landed near Port Dentrecasteaux, to endeavour to see the savages again. It was not long before some of them came to meet us, giving us tokens of the greatest confidence. They first examined with great attention the insides of our boats, and then they took us by the arm, and invited us to follow them along the shore.
We had scarcely gone a mile before we found ourselves in the midst of eight-and-forty of the natives; ten men, fourteen women, and twenty-four children, among whom we observed as many girls as boys. Seven fires were burning, and round each was assembled a little family.
The least of the children, frightened at the sight of such a number of Europeans, immediately took refuge in the arms of their mothers, who lavished on them marks of the greatest affection. The fears of the children were soon removed; and they showed us, that they were not exempt from little passions, whence arose differences, to which the mothers almost imme​diately put an end by slight correction; but they soon found it necessary to stop their tears by caresses.
We knew already that these savages had little taste for the violin; but we flattered ourselves that they would not be altogether insensible to its tones, if lively tunes, and very distinct in their measure, were played. At first they left us in doubt for some time; on which our musician redoubled his exertions, in hopes of obtaining their applause; but the bow dropped from his hand, when he beheld the whole assembly stopping their ears with their fingers, that they might hear no more.
These people are covered with vermin. We admired the patience of a mother, who was a long while employed in freeing one of her children from them; but we observed with disgust that, like most of the blacks, she crushed these filthy insects between her teeth, and then swallowed them. It is to be remarked, that apes have the same custom.
The little children were very desirous of every thing shining, and were not afraid to come up to us, to endeavour to pull off our buttons. Their mothers, less curious with respect to their own dress than that of their children, held them to ​us, that we might decorate them with the ornaments which we had intended for themselves.
I ought not to omit a waggish trick, which a young savage played one of our people. The sailor had laid down a bag full of shell-fish at the foot of a rock: the youth slily removed it to another place, and let him search for it a long time in vain; at length he replaced it where the sailor had left it, and was highly diverted with the trick he had played him.
This numerous party was transported with admiration, when they saw the effects of gunpowder thrown on the burning coals. They all intreated us to let them have the pleasure of seeing it several times.
Not being able to persuade themselves that we had none but men among us, they long believed, notwithstanding all we could say, that the youngest of us were women. Their curiosity on this head carried them further than we should have expected, for they were not to be convinced, till they had assured themselves of the fact.
The women have adopted a mode which I imagine our belles will never imitate, though it occasions the disappearance of a considerable part of the wrinkles that pregnancy occasions. They have the skin of the abdomen marked with three ​ Natives of Van Diemen's Land Fishing. ​large semicircular risings, one above the other: whether from coquetry, or not, would be difficult to determine.
One of the savages had several marks of very recent burns on the head. Perhaps they employ the actual cautery in many diseases, which is an established practice among various other people, and particularly among most of the Indians.
About noon we saw them prepare their repast. Hitherto we had but a faint idea of the pains the women take to procure the food requisite for the subsistence of their families. They took each a basket, and were followed by their daughters, who did the same. Getting on the rocks, that projected into the sea, they plunged from them to the bottom in search of shell-fish. When they had been down some time, we became very uneasy on their account; for where they had dived were sea-weeds of great length, among which we observed the fucus pyriferus, and we feared that they might have been entangled in these, so as to be unable to regain the surface. At length, however, they appeared, and convinced us that they were capable of remaining under water twice as long as our ablest divers. An instant was sufficient for them to take breath, and then they dived again. This they did repeatedly, till their baskets were nearly full. Most of them were ​provided with a little bit of wood, cut into the shape of a spatula, of which I spoke above; and with these they separated from beneath the rocks, at great depths, very large sea-ears. Perhaps they choose the biggest, for all they brought were of a great size.
On seeing the large lobsters, which they had in their baskets, we were afraid that they must have wounded these poor women terribly with their large claws; but we soon found, that they had taken the precaution to kill them as soon as they caught them. They quitted the water only to bring their husbands the fruits of their labour; and frequently returned almost immediately to their diving, till they had procured a sufficient meal for their families. At other times they staid a little while to warm themselves, with their faces toward the fire on which their fish was roasting, and other little fires burning behind them, that they might be warmed on all sides at once.
It seemed as if they were unwilling to lose a moment's time, for while they were warming themselves, they were employed in roasting fish; some of which they laid on the coals with the utmost caution: though they took little care of the lobsters, which they threw any where into the fire, and when they were ready, they divided the ​claws among the men and children, reserving the body for themselves, which they sometimes ate before they returned into the water.
It gave us great pain to see these poor women condemned to such severe toil; while, at the same time, they ran the hazard of being devoured by sharks, or entangled among the weeds that rise from the bottom of the sea. We often intreated their husbands to take a share in their labour at least, but always in vain. They remained constantly near the fire, feasting on the best bits, and eating broiled fucus, or fern-roots. Occasionally they took the trouble to break boughs of trees into short pieces, to feed the fire, taking care to choose the driest. From their manner of breaking them, we found that their skulls must be very hard; for, taking hold of the sticks at each end with the hand, they bent them over their heads, as we do at the knee, till they broke. Their heads being constantly bare, and often exposed to all weathers, in this high latitude, acquire a capacity of resisting such efforts: besides, their hair forms a cushion, which diminishes the pressure, and renders it much less painful on the summit of the head, than on any other part of the body. Few of the women, however, could have done as much; for some had their hair cut pretty short, and wore a string several times round the head, others had ​only a simple crown of hair. (See Plates IV. and V.) We made the same observation with respect to several of the children, but none of the men. These had the back, breast, shoulders, and arms, covered with downy hair.
Two of the stoutest of the party were sitting in the midst of their children, and each had two women by his side. They informed us by signs, that these were their wives, and gave us a fresh proof that polygamy is established among them. The other women, who had only one husband, were equally careful to let us know it. It would be difficult to say which are the happiest; as the most laborious of their domestic occupations devolve upon them, the former had the advantage of a partner in them, which perhaps might sufficiently compensate their having only a share in their husband's affections.
Their meal had continued a long time, and we were much surprized that not one of them had yet drank: but this they deferred, till they were fully satisfied with eating. The women and girls then went to fetch water with the vessels of sea-weed, of which I have already spoken, getting it at the first place they came to, and setting it down by the men, who drank it without ceremony, though it was very muddy and stagnant. Then they finished their repast.
​ Savages of Van Diemen's Land preparing their Repast. ​When we returned toward Port Dentrecasteaux, most of the savages accompanied us; and before they left us, they gave us to understand, that, in two days, by proceeding along the shore, they should be very near our ships. To inform us that they should make this journey in two days, they pointed out with their hands the diurnal motion of the sun, and expressed the number two by as many of their fingers.
When we re-embarked to go on board, these good people followed us with their eyes for some time, before they left the shore, and then they disappeared in the woods. Their way brought them at times to the shore again, of which we were immediately informed by the cries of joy, with which they made the air resound. These testimonies of pleasure did not cease till we lost sight of them from the distance.
During the whole time we spent with them, nothing appeared to indicate that they had any chiefs. Each family, on the contrary, seemed to us, to live in perfect independence: though we observed in the children the greatest subordination to their parents, and in the women the same to their husbands. It appeared, that the women were careful to avoid giving their husbands any occasion for jealousy: though, when we returned on board, one of the crew boasted of ​the favours he had received from one of the beauties of Cape Diemen; but it is difficult to say, how far his story was founded on truth.
13th. On the 24th I made an excursion to the south-east, where I found an opportunity of adding to the observations I had already made respecting the different productions of the country.
14th. The next day every thing was ready for our departure, and we waited only for a fair wind to set sail: but being delayed by a calm, we saw with pleasure, that the savages, who, at our last interview, had promised to come near our anchoring-place within two days, had kept their words. In fact, a little before noon we perceived a fire not far from our watering-place; and there could be no doubt that it was kindled by them, as all our crew were on board. A great number of us immediately repaired in several boats to the place of rendezvous. It was the first time that General Dentrecasteaux had the pleasure of seeing any of the natives. They soon quitted their fire, and proceeded for some time through the paths made in the wood along the shore, in order to come still nearer to us. We went to meet them; and when we were near them they stopped, appearing well pleased at seeing us come ashore. There were five of them. One of them carried a piece of decayed wood in his hand, ​lighted at one end, and burning slowly. He used this kind of match in order to keep fire, and amused himself now and then with setting it to a tuft, where there were some very dry herbs. The others being invited by some of our crew to dance in a ring with them, imitated all their movements tolerably well. We made them presents of a great number of things, which they let us hang round their necks with strings, and soon they were almost covered with them, apparently to their great satisfation: but they gave us nothing, for they had brought nothing with them, probably that they might walk with the more facility.
A native, to whom we had just given a hatchet, displayed great dexterity at striking several times following in the same place, thus attempting to imitate one of our sailors, who had cut down a tree. We showed him that he must strike in different places, so as to cut out a notch, which he did immediately, and was transported with joy when the tree was felled by his strokes. They were astonished at the quickness with which we sawed the trunk in two; and we made them a present of some hand-saws, which they used with great readiness, as soon as we had shown them the way.
From the manner in which we had seen them ​procure fish, we had reason to presume that they had no fish-hooks: accordingly we gave them some of ours, and taught them how to use them, congratulating ourselves at having supplied them with the means of diminishing one of the most fatiguing employments of the women.
These savages were much surprised at seeing us kindle the spongy bark of the eucalyptus resinifera in the focus of a burning glass. He who appeared the most intelligent among them, desirous of trying the effects of the lens himself, threw the converging rays of the sun upon his thigh by its means; but the pain he felt, took from him all inclination of repeating the experiment.
We let one of the natives see our ships through a good perspective-glass, and he soon yielded to our solicitations, to go on board the Recherche in one of our boats. He went up the side with an air of confidence, and examined the inside of the ship with much attention. His looks were then directed chiefly to such objects as might serve for food. Led by the similitude in shape, between the black swans of Cape Diemen and the geese of Guinea, which he saw on board, he asked for one, giving us to understand that it was to eat. When he came opposite to our hen-coops, he appeared struck with the beauty of a ​very large cock, which was presented to him; and on receiving it he let us know, that he would lose no time in broiling and eating it. After having remained on board more than half an hour, and been loaded with presents, he desired to return, and was immediately carried ashore. We had taken an ape on shore with us, which afforded much amusement to the savages; and one of the crew took a goat with him, which formed a subject of conversation for them a long time, and to which they occasionally spoke, saying, medi (sit down).
They have given particular names to every vegetable. We assured ourselves, that their botanical knowledge was unequivocal, by asking several of them, at different times, the names of the same plants.
In this interview we had an opportunity of adding considerably to the vocabulary of their language, which we had before begun to collect, and which will be found at the end of this work. On comparing it with the vocabulary, which several voyagers have given us, of the language of the people on the eastern coast of New Holland, it will be seen, that it has no affinity with them; which proves, that all these people have not one common origin.
The savage, who had been on board our vessel, ​was not long before he quitted us, expressing much gratitude, and pointing to the cock, which he took upon one of his shoulders.
The rest, before they went away, gave us to understand, that the next day their families would be at the place where we were; but they appeared to apprehend our meaning, when we acquainted them that we should sail the same day, and seemed to be much grieved at it.
Our observatory, erected to the south south-east of the place where we lay at anchor, and a little more than half a mile distant from it, was in latitude 43° 34′ 37″ south, and longitude 144° 37′ east.
A great number of observations made on board gave us for the variation of the needle 7° 34′ east, while at the observatory we found only 2° 55′ east variation. A difference so great must unquestionably have arisen from some magnetic point; besides, we had already found indications of ferruginous substances at a very little distance from the place. It is remarkable that, at the observatory of the Esperance, which was about six hundred yards only from that of the Recherche, the variation of the needle was 8° east. We satisfied ourselves that this difference was not owing to the compasses used, for we found it the same when we made an exchange be​tween them, by removing them from one observatory to the other.
The dip of the needle was 72° at the observatory of the Recherche, and 71° at that of the Esperance.
During our stay in Rocky Bay, the winds varied from north-west to south-west, and frequently in heavy squalls. The sky was seldom clear, but we had little rain.
The tides were perceptible only once in twenty-four hours. As the wind influenced them much, we could not determine with precision the time of high-water at the full and change of the moon.
Their greatest perpendicular rise was only five feet, or a little more.
During this stay, our sailors lost much of their ardour for fishing; for this laborious occupation, in which they were employed chiefly by night, did not exempt them from the duties of the ship in the day; so that, after having sitten up to fish, they were obliged to work all day, as well as those who had enjoyed their regular sleep in the night. Care should have been taken, however, not to damp the zeal of our fishers, for it was an object of general importance to all, to procure an ample supply of fresh provision; besides, it was unjust not to allow at least a few hours rest in the day to men, who had been spending the ​night in procuring agreeable and salubrious food for all the rest of the crew.
We set ashore here a she-goat and a young he-goat, in hopes of naturalizing these animals in New Holland, as they could not fail to thrive on the mountains at this extremity of the country, and prove at some future period a great resource to navigators: it is only to be feared, that the savages may destroy them, before they have had time to propagate their breed.