# Collier's Cyclopedia of Commercial and Social Information/Games of Skill

Black.
White.
ORDER OF THE MEN ON THE BOARD.
HESS is one of the most ancient of known games of skill. Various theories are advanced as to its origin. One account states that the wife of Ravan, King of Ceylon, devised it in order to amuse her royal spouse with an image of war while his metropolis was closely besieged by Rama.
We will now proceed to give the necessary directions for playing the game.
The game is played on a board divided into sixty-four squares, colored alternately black and white. It is the same as that used at draughts. Eight pieces of different denominations and powers, and eight pawns, are allotted to each competitor. As a necessary distinction, each set is colored in a different way, one commonly being white, the other red or black. The pieces are named as follows:
| King. | King. | Queen. | Queen. | Bishop. | Bishop. |
| Knight. | Knight. | Rook. | Rook. | Pawn. | Pawn. |
Every player, therefore, is provided with one king, one queen, two bishops, two knights, and two rooks, besides the eight pawns. They are placed, at the beginning of each game, in the order shown at the head of this article.
In placing the board, care must be taken that a white corner square be at the right hand of each player. It should also be observed that the queen must be placed upon a square of her own color.
THE PIECES: THEIR POWERS AND MODE OF ACTION.
The king can move in any direction—forward, backward, sideways, or diagonally, provided always, of course, that he does not move into check. The king possesses one great prerogative—that of never being taken; but, by way of counter-balancing the advantage of this exemption, he is restrained from exposing himself to check. He can move only one square at a time, except when he castles, which he may do once during each game, He may then move two squares. He cannot castles when in check, nor after he has once moved, with a rook that has been moved, nor if any of the square over which he has to move be commanded by an adverse piece.
The queen can move either horizontally or diagonally. She ​combines the powers of the bishop and the rock. She can, at move, pass along the whole length of the board, or, if moving diagonally, from corner to corner. Although she can and take in the same manner as a bishop or as a rook, she must make the whole me move in one direction, and cannot combine in one move the powers of these two pieces: in other words, she cannot move round a corner at one step.
The rook (sometimes called the castle) may pass along the entire length of the board at one move. It may move backwards, or forwards, or sideways—but always horizontally, never diagonally.
The bishop can move only in a diagonal direction, but can go any number of squares, from one to eight, or as far as the space be open. The bishop can never change the color of his square. Thus, the white king's bishop being on a white at the beginning, remains so throughout the game. This is a necessary consequence of his move being purely diagonal.
The knight has a power of moving which is quite peculiar, and rather difficult to explain. He moves two squares at once in a direction partly diagonal and partly straight. He changes the color of his squares at every move. The knight is the only piece that possesses what is styled the "vaulting motion." He is not precluded from going toa square between which and his own other pieces intervene. Thus, instead of moving your king’s pawn two, as your first move, you might, if good play permitted it, move out either of your knights right over the row of pawns in front. This power is possessed by the knight alone, all the other pieces being obliged to wait until there is an opening in front of them before they can emerge.
The pawn moves in a straight line towards the adverse party. It cannot move out of its file except in capturing one of opposing pawns or pieces, when it steps one square in a diagonal or slanting direction, and occupies the square of the captured piece. It can only be moved one square at a time, excepting in the first move, when the player has the option of advancing it two squares. The pawn is the only piece which cannot retreat, and which does not take in the direction in which it moves. For full explanations relative to "queening the pawn," and taking a pawn en passant, see instructions on those points.
ABBREVIATIONS.
The abbreviations which are invariably used in chess publications are the following: K. for king, Q. for queen, B. for bishop Kt. for knight, R. for rook, P. for pawn, Sq. for square and Ch. for check. The pieces on one side of the board are a from those on the other in the following manner: Those on the same side as the king are named after him, as K.'s B, (king’s bishop), K.’s Kt. (king's knight), K's R. (king’s rook); while those on the same side as the queen are named Q.’s B. (queen’s bishop), Q.’s Kt. (queen's Knight), Q.’s R. (queen’s rook). The pawns are distinguished in like manner. The pawn occupying the square in front of the K's B is called K.’s B.’s P.; that in front of the K.’s Kt. is called K.’s Kt.’s P.; that in front of the Q.’s R. the Q.’s R's P.. etc,
CHESS NOTATION.
It is very necessary that the beginner should thoroughly understand the system of notation which is invariably used throughout England, for without it he could never make any use of book games.
The following diagram fully explains it. It will be seen that the moves are reckoned both for black and white.
Black.
| Q.R.sq. Q.R.8. | Q.Kt.sq. Q.Kt.8. | Q.B.sq. Q.B.8. | Q.sq. Q.8. | K.sq. K.8. | K.B.sq. K.B.8. | K.Kt.sq. K.Kt.8. | K.R.sq. K.R.8. |
| Q.R.2. Q.R.7. | Q.Kt.2. Q.Kt.7. | Q.B.2. Q.B.7. | Q.2. Q.7. | K.2. K.7. | K.B.2. K.B.7. | K.Kt.2. K.Kt.7. | K.R.2. K.R.7. |
| Q.R.3. Q.R.6. | Q.Kt.3. Q.Kt.6. | Q.B.3. Q.B.6. | Q.3. Q.6. | K.3. K.6. | K.B.3. K.B.6. | K.Kt.3. K.Kt.6. | K.R.3. K.R.6. |
| Q.R.4. Q.R.5. | Q.Kt.4. Q.Kt.5. | Q.B.4. Q.B.5. | Q.4. Q.5. | K.4. K.5. | K.B.4. K.B.5. | K.Kt.4. K.Kt.5. | K.R.4. K.R.5. |
| Q.R.5. Q.R.4. | Q.Kt.5. Q.Kt.4. | Q.B.5. Q.B.4. | Q.5. Q.4. | K.5. K.4. | K.B.5. K.B.4. | K.Kt.5. K.Kt.4. | K.R.5. K.R.4. |
| Q.R.6. Q.R.3. | Q.Kt.6. Q.Kt.3. | Q.B.6. Q.B.3. | Q.6. Q.3. | K.6. K.3. | K.B.6. K.B.3. | K.Kt.6. K.Kt.3. | K.R.6. K.R.3. |
| Q.R.7. Q.R.2. | Q.Kt.7. Q.Kt.2. | Q.B.7. Q.B.2. | Q.7. Q.2. | K.7. K.2. | K.B.7. K.B.2. | K.Kt.7. K.Kt.2. | K.R.7. K.R.2. |
| Q.R.8. Q.R.sq. | Q.Kt.8. Q.Kt.sq. | Q.B.8. Q.B.sq. | Q.8. Q.sq. | K.8. K.2. | K.B.8. K.B.sq. | K.Kt.8. K.Kt.sq. | K.R.8. K.R.sq. |
White.
CHESS NOTATION FROM BACK END OF THE BOARD.
Suppose the white queen’s bishop moves one square, it is then said to stand on its second, which is the black queen’s bishop’s seventh. The white king’s eighth is the black king’s first, and vice versâ all through the pieces.
TECHNICAL TERMS USED IN THE GAME.
The Move.—Whichever player opens the game by making the first move is said to have "the move."
Check.—When your king is attacked by any piece, he is said to be "in check," and it is your opponent’s duty to give you warning of such an event by crying "Check," when he makes the move. You must then put your king out of check by moving him, by taking the checking piece, or by interposing one of your own men between the checking piece and your king, thus "covering" check, as it is termed.
Checkmate is the term used when the king is in inextricable check, i.e., when none of the above means avail to place him beyond the range of the attacking pieces. When a checkmate is obtained, the game is at an end, that being the sole object.
Discovered Check is when the player moves a pawn or piece from before another piece, thereby opening or "discovering" check: e.g., the black rook may be on a line with the opposing king, the only intervening piece being a black pawn. The removal of this pawn "discovers check."
Double Check is when check is discovered as above. the king being also attacked by the piece moved.
Perpetual Check is when the king of one of the players can be checked almost at every move, and when he has little else ​to do but move out of check. When the game has reached this stage, the weaker player may demand that checkmate shall be given in a certain number of moves, in default of which it may be declared a drawn game. (See Rule 8.)
Drawn Game.—A drawn game may arise from several causes:
   * As above.
   * Stalemate. (See "Stalemate.")
   * Equal play. "Between very good players," remarks Phillidor, "it sometimes happens that the equipoise in force and position is constantly sustained in the opening, in the intermediate stages, and in the last result; when either all the exchangeable pieces have been mutually taken, or the remaining forces are equal—as a queen against a queen, a rook against a rook, with no advantage in position, or the pawns are mutually blocked up."
   * Absence of mating power, i.e., when neither player possesses the force requisite to obtain a checkmate. (See "Mating Power.")
   * Unskillful use of a sufficiently strong force. If one player is superior in force to his adversary, and possesses the requisite mating power, the game may still be drawn by the unskillful use of that superiority. If he cannot effect a checkmate in fifty moves it may be declared a drawn game.
Stalemate describes that state of the game when one of the players has nothing left but his king, which is so placed that, although not in check, he cannot move without going into check.
Castling is a double operation, accomplished by moving the king and one of the rooks at the same time. When the removal of the bishop and the knight on the one side, or of the bishop, knight, and queen on the other, has cleared the intervening squares, the king may castle with either of his rooks. If it should be done on the king’s side of the board, the king is to be placed on the knight’s square, and the rook on the bishop’s; if in the queen's section, the king must be moved to the bishop’s square, and the rook to the queen’s. In other words, the king, in either case, must move two squares, and the rook be placed on the opposite side of him to that on which he stood before.
En Prise.—A piece is said to be en prise when under attack.
En Passant (in passing).—If your adversary has advanced one of his pawns to the fifth square, and you move one of your pawns in either of the adjoining files two squares, he is entitled to take your pawn, en passant, as though you had only moved it one square. This peculiar mode of capture can only be effected by pawns.
Ranks and Files.—The lines of squares running from left to right are known as rank, and those perpendicular to them, running from one player to the other, are called files.
Passed and Isolated Pawns.—A pawn is said to be "passed" when it is so far advanced that no pawn of the adversary’s can oppose it, An isolated pawn is one that stands alone and unsupported.
Double Pawn.—Two pawns on the same file.
"J'adoube” (signifying I adjust or I arrange) is the expression generally used when a player touches a piece to arrange it without the intention of making a move. Perhaps it is not absolutely necessary that he should say "J'adouble" but he must at any rate use an equivalent expression,
To Interpose.—This term explains itself. If your king of one of your pieces is attacked, and you move another of your pieces between the attacking piece and the piece attacked, either for the purpose of covering check, or as a means of protection, or with any other object, you are said to "interpose."
Winning the Exchange.—You are said "to win the exchange" when you gain a rook for a bishop, a bishop for knight, or, in short, whenever you gain a superior piece giving an inferior.
Queening a Pawn.—You are said to "queen a pawn" when you advance it to the eighth Square on the file. You may then claim a queen or any other piece in exchange for it. Formerly the rule was, that you might substitute for it any piece you had previously lost, but according to the modern game three or more rooks, or bishops, or knights may be obtained in this way.
Gambit.—This term, which is derived from the Italian describes an opening in which a pawn is purposely sacrifice at an early stage of the game, in order subsequently to gain an advantage. Several gambits are distinguished by the names of their inventors, such as the Cochrane gambit, the Muzio gambit, the Salvio gambit, etc.; there are also the bishop's gambit, the queen’s gambit, etc., etc.
Mating Power.—The force requisite to bring about a checkmate; a king and queen against king and two Bishops, king and two knights, king and bishop and knight, or against king and rook, can effect checkmate. King and two bishops can mate against king and bishop, or king and knight. King with two bishops and knight can mate against king and rook, King with rook and bishop can mate against rook and king. King can always draw against king and bishop, or king and knight. King and rook against either a king and bishop, or king and knight, makes a drawn game, ect.
LAWS OF THE GAME.
The following laws are in force in all the principal clubs in this country:
HINTS FOR COMMENCING THE GAME.
To open the game well, some of the pawns should be played out first. The royal pawns, particularly, should be advanced to their fourth square; it is not often safe to advance them farther. The bishop's pawn should also be played out early in the game; but it is not always well to advance the rook’s and knight’s pawns too hastily, as these afford an excellent . protection to your king in case you should castle. Phillidor describes pawn-playing as the "the soul of chess." When they are not too far advanced, and are so placed as to be mutually supporting, they present a strong barrier to the advance of your adversary, and prevent him from taking up a commanding position. If you play your pieces out too early, and advance too far, your adversary may oblige you to bring them back again by advancing his pawns upon them, and you thug lose time.
Do not commence your attack until you are well prepared. A weak attack often results in disaster. If your attack is likely to prove successful, do not be diverted from it by any bait which your adversary may purposely put in your way. Pause, lest you fall into a snare.
Beware of giving check uselessly—i.e., unless you have in view the obtaining of some advantage. A useless check is a move lost, which may, particularly between good players, decide the game.
It is generally injudicious to make an exchange when your position is good, or when, by so doing, you bring one of your adversary’s pieces into good play. Never make an exchange without considering the consequences. When your game is crowded and ill arranged and your position inferior, it is advantageous to exchange. Sometimes also, when you are much superior in force, it is worth your while to make an equal exchange.
The operation of castling often relieves a crowded game. A lost opportunity of castling, or castling at the wrong time, is a disadvantage which may be turned to account by your adversary.
Never put your queen before your king in such a way that your adversary may bring forward a bishop or rook and attack her, and the king through her. In such a case, unless you can interpose another piece, you will inevitably lose your queen.
It is good play to "double" your rooks—i.e., to make them mutually supporting. Don't bring your rooks into active play too soon. They can generally operate most effectively at a distance, and they are therefore of most value toward the end of a game, when the board is comparatively clear.
From time to time take a review of the game. Although an incurably tedious player is a general nuisance, it is mere folly to play without "knowing the reason why." To take an occasional review of the game gets you into a systematic habit. When near the close, take notice of the position of your adversary’s pawns, and if you find that you can queen before him, make all haste to do so; if not, attack his pawns so as to prevent him from queening. If your adversary possesses a decided advantage, look out for a means of drawing the game.
Do not stick to one opening, but learn as many as you can. ​ Always be willing to accept odds of a better player, so that the game may be interesting to him. If you should lose, it is natural that you should feel inwardly chagrined, but do not let your disappointment be perceived. "Keep your temper" is a golden rule. Do not give up the game before you are quite sure it is lost. On the other hand, you should not too hastily jump to the conclusion that you have won it.
It is necessary that you should occasionally study some of the best book games, but without actual practice proficiency can seldom be attained.
Endeavor to understand the reasons which lead to your adversary's moves, and take measures accordingly.
"Openings" of Games.—The principal openings are the king’s gambit, the queen’s gambit, the king's knight’s opening, the king’s bishop’s opening, etc. From these spring the various gambits, known as the Evans, the Muzio, the Cunningham, the Allgaier, the Cochrane, the Giuoco piano, etc., most of them deriving their names from the inventors. All these gambits have a variety of subdivisions, and openings not founded on them are termed irregular openings. We shall, after defining each of the most celebrated of these openings, give illustrations of them.
The King’s Gambit.—In this gambit, the first player advances his K. B. P. two squares at his second move.
The Queen's Gambit is when the first player, at his second move, advances his Q. B. P. two squares.
King’s Bishop's Gambit is so styled because the first player brings out the K. B. at his second move.
King's Knight's Gambit—In this much-used opening the first player brings out his K. Kt. at his second move.
The Evans Gambit, so styled from its inventor, Captain W. D. Evans, R. N., is when the player advances Q. Kt. P. two at his fourth move, and sacrifices it, with the object of recovering at least its equivalent, at the same time obtaining a decided lead.
Besides the above, there are the queen’s pawn-two-opening, the queen’s bishop’s pawn’s opening, the Lopez gambit, the king’s pawn-one-opening, the queen’s counter-gambit, the king’s rook’s pawn’s gambit, the Allgaier gambit, the Muzio gambit, the Cochrane gambit, the Cunningham gambit, the bishop’s gambit, the Damian’s gambit, the Greco counter-gambi , etc., etc.
In an article of such limited scope as the present, it would be impossible to treat at any length upon every one of these openings. We shall therefore content ourselves with making a selection which will be at once interesting and suitable for beginners. In every case we have preferred to give those variations which are considered the best and most legitimate, believing that the study and practice of such positions will be more advantageous to the learner than giving, as some writers do, inferior play and positions, and then afterward giving the correct ones.
The King’s Gambit.—
| White. | Black. |
| 1. K. P. $_{2.}$ | 1. K. P. $_{2.}$ |
| 2. K. B. P. $_{2.}$ | 2. P. takes P. |
| 3. K. Kt. to B. $_{3.}$ | 3. K. Kt. P. $_{2.}$ |
| 4. K. B. to Q. B. $_{4.}$ | |
There has been much difference of opinion as to the move which black should now make, Some writers prefer advancing K. Kt. P., whilst Walker and a whole host of authorities think it better to place the K. B. at Kt. second: "Although," says Walker, "playing the pawn is productive of more brilliant situations." He advises both moves for practice.
King’s Bishop's Opening.—This opening is considered by the great chess master, Phillidor, as the very finest opening. for the first player, as it brings out the bishop at the second move, and immediately attacks black’s K. B. P., his weakest point. From this opening spring some of the finest and most difficult combinations known. It commences thus:
| White. | Black. |
| 1. K. P. to K. $_{4.}$ | 1. P. to K. $_{4.}$ |
| 2. K. B. to B. $_{4.}$ | 2. K. B. to B. $_4$(best). |
| 3.P. to Q. B. $_{3.}$ | 3. Q. to K. $_2$(good). |
| 4. K. Kt. to B. $_{3.}$ | |
Some prefer to play the Kt. to K. $_{2,}$ but in our opinion this is not so good as to B. $_{3,}$ because in the former case black could take K. B. P. with his bishop (check); and if white K. takes bishop, black queen gives check at her B. $_{4,}$ and white loses bishop.
| White. | Black. |
| | 4. K. Kt. to B. $_{3.}$ |
| 5. Q. to K $_{2.}$ | 5. P. to Q. $_{3.}$ |
| 6. P. to Q. $_{3.}$ | 6. P. to Q. B. $_3$ |
If black plays his Q. B., pinning Kt., white will advance R. P., which will cause black either to retire bishop (which will be losing time) or force an exchange, which will open the game to white’s queen. Therefore it will be better for black to play P. to Q. B. $_{3,}$ as we have given it, which will leave the game pretty equal up to this point. If black, at his third move, replies as follows—which is an inferior move—then the game proceeds thus:
| White. | Black. |
| | 3. K. Kt. to B. $_{3.}$ |
| 4. P. to K. $_{4.}$ | 4. P. takes P. |
| 5. P. to K. $_{5.}$ | 5. Kt. to K. $_5$ |
| 6. Q. to K. $_{2.}$ | 6. Kt. to K. $_5$ |
| 7. P. to K. B. $_{4.}$ | 7. Kt. to K. $_3$ |
| 8. P. to K. B. $_{5.}$ | |
If black no play
white has the best of the game, and ought to win; but if black play Kt. to Kt. $_{4,}$ white will play Q. to K. R. 5, and then P. to K. R. 4. If whiteat his third move should play Q. to K. $_{2,}$ attacking K. B. P. and threatening ch. with Q. and capture of bishop, and if black advance Q. P, one, it may then become the Ruy Lopez gambit by white playing as his fourth move P. to K. B. $_{4.}$ If the gambit referred to be not properly met, it leads to strong positions of attack. It is better for the second player to refuse the pawn offered.
King's Knight's Opening.—This is a sound opening, and has been largely treated upon by many writers, Some fine situations spring from it. At the second move, white directly attacks K. P. with K. Kt. We will give the opening, and a few brief remarks thereon, together with a game arising from it:
White. Black.
| White. | Black. |
| 1. P. to K. $_{4.}$ | 1. P. to K. $_{4.}$ |
| 2. K. Kt. to B. $_{3.}$ | |
For black, in reply to this, to move P. to K. B. $_{3.}$ would ​only show weak play, and would enable white to win in a few moves, or at any rate to obtain a rook and a pawn in exchange for a knight. Black’s best answer is the following:
2. Q. Kt. to B. $_{3.}$
Black thus defends his pager has the advantage of a counter-attack.
King's Knight's Gambit.—This is a variation of the king’s gambit brought about by white at his fourth move advancing the K. R. P. before bringing out his K. B. This variation brings out some fine play, but is not so strong for the first player as the king's gambit proper. The Allgaier gambit springs from this opening.
| White. | Black. |
| 1. P. to K. $_{4.}$ | 1. P. to K. $_{4.}$ |
| 2. P. to K. B. $_{4.}$ | 2. P. takes P. |
| 3. K. Kt. to B. $_{3.}$ | 3. P. to. K. Kt. $_{4.}$ |
| 4. P. to K. R. $_{4.}$ | 4. P. to. K. Kt. $_5$ (best). |
| 5. K. Kt. to K. $_{4.}$ | |
By white’s Last move the game emerges into the Allgaier, Black’s best move now is
| | 5. P. to K. R. $_{4.}$ |
| 6. K. B. to Q. B. $_{4.}$ | 6. R. to K. $_{2.}$ |
This move of black’s is considered better than K. Kt. to R. $_{3.}$
| 7. P. to Q. $_{4.}$ | 7. P. to Q. $_{3.}$ |
| 8. Kt. to Q. $_{3.}$ | 8. K. B. P. advances. |
If white now plays K. Kt. P., black has the best of the game keeping the gambit pawn. If white attacks queen with bishop, black will give check with pawn, and have the stronger game. Most authorities consider this opening weak for the first player.
The Allgaier Gambit.—This opening, the invention of a noted German from whom it takes its name, arises out of the king's knight's gambit, as detailed in the preceding paragraph. It is not a safe opening, although, if successful, it will prove a strong one. When properly met, the siege is soon raised, and the second player will stand in the better position, It is, however, a fine opening, and requires cautious play on both sides. It is as follows:
| White. | Black. |
| 1. P. to K. $_{4.}$ | 1. P. to K. $_{4.}$ |
| 2. P. to K. B. $_{4.}$ | 2. P. takes P. |
| 3. K. Kt. to B. $_{3.}$ | 3. P. to. K. Kt. $_{4.}$ |
| 4. P. to K. R. $_{4.}$ | 4. P. to. K. Kt. $_5$ |
| 5. K. Kt. to K. $_{4.}$ | |
White’s fifth move constitutes the Allgaier gambit, white intending to sacrifice the knight if attacked by the pawns. Black may replay in several ways, but in our opinion his best move is the following:
Black by this move wins the knight
| 6. Kt. takes K. B. P. | 6. K. takes Kt. |
| 7. Q. takes P. | 7. K. Kt. to B. $_{3.}$ |
| 8. Q. takes B. P. | |
The last move is much better than giving check with the bishop, which would only have the effect of involving white’s game. Walker says, "No better move can be played at this crisis" It will be good practice for the student to continue the above opening, and exercise his ingenuity by finishing the game.
The Muzio Gambit—This is another variation of the king’s and is produced by white offering to sacrifice knight in order to gain a strong attacking position. It is the invention of Signor Muzio, an Italian player of some eminence. Walker says this may be classed as the most brilliant and critical opening known, and recommends the student to play it at every opportunity; he also throws out the warning that an incorrect move may irrecoverably lose the game. The defense is most difficult to discover in actual play.
| White. | Black. |
| 1. P. to K. $_{4.}$ | 1. P. to K. $_{4.}$ |
| 2. P. to K. B. $_{4.}$ | 2. P. takes P. |
| 3. K. Kt. to B. $_{3.}$ | 3. P. to. K. Kt. $_{4.}$ |
| 4. K. B. to Q. B. $_{4.}$ | 4. K. Kt. P. advances. |
| 5. Castles. | |
This move constitutes the gambit; for, instead of white withdrawing his Kt., or moving it to Q. 4, he allows it to remain and be taken. It now rests with black whether he will accept the gambit. Walker says he cannot do better.
| | 5. takes Kt. |
| 6. Q. takes P. | 6. Q. to K. B. $_3$ (best). |
This last move is Sarratt's defense, which is clearly shown to be the best.
| 7. K. P. advances | 7. Q. takes K. P. |
This is black's best move, for, if he did not take P., white at ortce obtains the advantage by playing P. to Q. 2, defending K. P. If black play Q. to Kt. $_{3.}$ (ch.), white moves K. to R. sq., and ought to win.
The Scotch Gambit, or Queen’s Pawn Two Opening.—This gambit has a fine, dashing attack, and one of its advantages is, that in case it should miscarry, the disaster is comparatively slight. "It is," as Walker says, "one of the most attacking yet safe methods of commencing the game which can possibly be adopted." Again, "It is alike fertile in resource and safe in results.":
| White. | Black. |
| 1. P. to K. $_{4.}$ | 1. P. to K. $_{4.}$ |
| 2. K. Kt. to B. $_{3.}$ | 2.Q. Kt. to B. $_{3.}$ |
| 3. P. takes Q. $_{4.}$ | |
The third move of white gives it the name of the Queen’s Pawn Two Opening. White plays the pawn for the purpose of opening the game, especially for his bishops. Black may now take the pawn either with his P, or Kt. We will suppose him to do the former, which we consider best:
| | 3. P. takes P. |
| 4. K. B. to Q. B. $_{4.}$ | |
Some players now give black’s fourth move as B. to Q. Kt. 5 (ch.); but this is a decidedly bad move, and with an indifferent player would lose the game. Black’s best move is that introduced by Macdonnell, and described by Walker as a sound defense. We give it below:
White may now castle, or play P. to Q. B. $_3$; either of which is better than Kt. or B. to K. Kt. 5.
HOW TO FINISH THE GAME.
Having now considered the "Hints for Commencing the Game," and studied most of the principal openings, we must say a few words with regard to finishing the game. It is often very difficult to checkmate when you have a king, bishop, and knight against a king. Although possessing the requisite mating power, good players have often failed to accomplish the ​the mate within the stipulated fifty moves. The only way in which it can be done is by driving the adverse king to a corner commanded by your bishop. The better to convey our meaning, we give an illustration. Suppose the men to be placed thus:
| White | K. at K. B. 6. |
| {{{1}}}„ | K. B. at K. B. 5. |
| {{{1}}}„ | Kt at K. Kt. 5. |
| Black | K. at K. R. sq. |
Then, in eighteen moves, white may effect checkmate:
| White. | Black. |
| 1. Kt. to K. B. 7 (ch.). | 1. K. to Kt. sq. |
| 2. B. to K. 4. 2. K. | 2. K. B. sq. |
| 3. B. to K.R. 7. | 3. K. to K. sq. N |
| 4. Kt. to K. 5. | 4. K. to K. B. sq. |
| 5. Kt. to Q. 2. | 5. K. to K. sq. |
| 6. K. to K. sq. | 6. K to Q. sq. |
| 7. K. to Q. 6. | 7. K. to K. sq. |
| 8. B. to K. Kt. 6 (ch.). | 8. K. to Q. sq. |
| 9. Kt. to 0. B. s. | 9. K. to Q. B. sq. |
| 10. B. to B. 7. | 10. K. to Q. sq. |
| 11. Kt. to Q. Kt. 7 (ch.). | 11. K. to Q. B. sq. |
| 12. K. to Q. B. 6. | 12. K, to Q. Kt. sq. |
| 13. K. to Q: Kt. 6. | 13. K. to O. B. sq. |
| 14. B. to K. 6 (ch.). | 14. K. to Q. Kt. sq. |
| 15. Kt. to Q. B. 5. | 15. K. toQ. R. sq. |
| 16. B. to Q. 7. | 16. K. to Q. Kt. sq. |
| 17. Kt. to Q, R. 6 (ch.). | 17. K. to Q. R. sq. |
| 18. B. to Q. B. 6, checkm. | |
As will be observed from the above example, one of the important objects is never to let the king escape into the middle of the board.
In our chapter on checkmate we should not omit to give the "Fool's Mate" and the "Scholar's Mate."
The former shows that it is possible to effect mate in as few as two moves. It is easy to understand why it should be named the "fool's mate" but why a checkmate which may be effected in four moves should be termed "scholar's mate" is probably less capable of explanation.
Fool's Mate.—
| White. | Black. |
| 1. K. Kt. P. | 2 sq. a K. P. 2, |
| 2. K. B. P. 1 sq. | 2. Queen mates |
Scholar's Mate.—
| White. | | Black. |
| 1. K. P. 2. | | 1, K. P. 2. |
| 2. K. B. to O. B. 4. | | 2. K. B. to Q. B. 4. |
| 3. Q. to K. R. 5. | | 3. Q P. 1. |
| 4. Q. takes K. B. P., | giving | "scholar's mate." |
King and Queen against King,—Several examples of this checkmate might be given, but the one below will probably be sufficient. The principal point upon which the learner need be warned is against allowing his adversary, to effect stalemate, Suppose the pieces to be placed thus:
White king at K. sq.
{{{1}}}„queen at Q. B. sq.
Black king at Q. 3.
The game may then proceed as follows:
| White. | Black. |
| 1, Q. to K, Kt. s. | 1. K. to K. 4. |
| 2. K. to K. 2. | 2. K, to Q. 3 |
| 3. K. to K. 3. | 3. K. to K. 3. |
| 4. K, to K. | 4. 4K. to Q. 3. |
| 5. Q. to K. Kt. | 5. |
| 6. K, advances. | 6. |
| 7. Q. mates. | |
King and Queen against King and Rook.—Sappose the mento be placed thus:
White king at K. B. 3.
{{{1}}}„ queen at K. sq.
Black king at K. R.7.
{{{1}}}„ rook, at K. Kt. 7
supposing white to have the first move, the game may be completed in three moves:
| White. | Black. |
| 1. Q. to K. 5 (ch.). | 1, K. to R. 8, |
| 2. Q. to Q. R. (ch.). | 2. K. moves. |
| 3. Q. to K. sq., and wins. | |
PROBLEMS.
The following problems are, selected from various sources and are given because they are just sufficiently difficult to exercise the ingenuity of the learner. At the same time would caution him against too close a study of problems until he is well up in the game, for, if followed up, it will only tend throw up the game with dislike.
PROBLEM No, 1.
Black.
White.
White to move, and mate in two moves.
PROBLEM No. 2.
Black.
White.
White to move, and mate in two moves.
PROBLEM No. 3.
Black.
White.
White to move, and mate in three moves.
PROBLEM No. 4.
Black.
White.
White to move, and mate in three moves.
PROBLEM No. 5.
Black.
White.
White to move, and mate in three moves.
PROBLEM No. 6.
Black.
White.
White to move, and mate in three moves.
PROBLEM No. 7.
Black.
White.
White to move, and mate in three moves.
PROBLEM No. 8.
Black.
White.
White to move, and mate in four moves.
PROBLEM No. 9.
Black.
White.
White to move, and mate in four moves.
PROBLEM No. 10.
(The Indian Problem)
Black.
White.
White to move, and mate in four moves.
SOLUTIONS OF THE PROBLEMS.
Problem 1.
| White. | Black. |
| 1. Q. to B. $_4$(ch.). | 1. P. takes Q. |
| 2. R. to Q. $_{8,}$ mate | |
Problem 2.
| White. | Black. |
| 1. R. to Q. $_8$(ch.). | 1. K. takes R. |
| 2. Q. to Q. $_{7,}$ mate | |
Problem 3.
| White. | Black. |
| 1. R. to K. sq. | 1. K. takes Q. sq. |
| 2. R. to K. Kt. sq. | 2. K. to K. sq. |
| 3. R. to Kt. $_{8,}$ mate. |
Problem 4.
| White. | Black. |
| 1. K. R. to K. R. $_{6.}$ | 1. K. to K. B. $_{4.}$ |
| 2. Q. R. to K. Kt. sq. | 2. K. to K. $_{4.}$ |
| 3. R. to Kt. $_{5,}$ mate. |
There are two solutions to this problem.
Problem 5.
| White. | Black. |
| 1. Q. to K. R. $_{7.}$ | 1. Q. Kt. takes Q. |
| 2. Kt. to Kt. $_{6.}$(ch.) | 2. K. to Kt. sq. |
| 3. B. to Q. $_{5,}$ mate. |
Problem 6.
| White. | Black. |
| 1. Q. to Q. $_{2.}$ | 1. K. moves. |
| 2. Q. to Q. sq(ch.) | 2. K. takes Kt. |
| 3. Q. mates. |
Problem 7.
| White. | Black. |
| 1. R. to Q. B. $_2$(dis. ch.). | 1. R. takes R. |
| 2. R. to Q. B. $_{4,}$ (ch.) | 2. P. takes R. |
| 3. B. mates. |
Problem 8.
| White. | Black. |
| 1. kt. to K. B. $_{6.}$ | 1. P. advances. |
| 2. Kt. to K. $_{4.}$(ch.) | 2. K. to R. $_{8.}$ |
| 3. K. to B. sq | 3. R. P. $_{1.}$ |
| 4. Kt. to B. $_{2.}$ mate. |
Problem 9.
| White. | Black. |
| 1. R. to K. Kt. $_{2.}$(ch.) | 1. K. to B. sq. |
| 2. Kt. to Q. $_{7.}$(ch.) | 2. R. takes Kt. |
| 3. R. to K. $_{8.}$(ch.) | 3. K. takes R. |
| 4. R to Kt. $_{8,}$ mate. |
Problem 10.
(The Indian Problem.)
| White. | Black. |
| 1. B. to Q. B. sq. | 1. P. moves. |
| 2. R. to Q. $_{2.}$(ch.) | 2. P moves. |
| 3. K. moves. | 3. K. moves. |
| 4. R to Q. $_4$(dis. checkmate). |
RAUGHTS is a games that is very often underrated, because it is supposed that there is little or no play in it, and thus, when a person is asked if he plays draughts, his reply is not unusually, "No, it is such a stupid game; there’s no play in it."
Whenever this remark is made to us, we challenge the person to a series of games, when, having beaten him some half-dozen in succession, we prove that there must be some play in the game, or such a result would be improbable.
When playing chess, there are so many pieces, each having a different moving power and a relative value, that one oversight, caused probably by a momentary relaxation of memory, loses a game, whereas in draughts such a result is less probable, and the attention can be more completely devoted to some plot, through which the opponent does see. As a rule, a good draught-player is a more acute person on every-day subjects than is a good chess-player, and thus we strongly recommend draughts as a game likely to call into action very useful qualities.
Draughts is played on the same board as is chess, the men, however, being placed entirely on squares of one color.
There are twelve men on each side, arranged on the square from 1 to 12 and from 21 and 32.
The two squares marked 1 and 5, and 32 and 28, are called the double corners, and these must always be on the right hand of the player, whilst the left-hand lowest squares, 4 and 29, must always be on the left-hand side.
Having arranged the men, the first move is arranged between the players by lot.
​The men move one square at a time; thus, the man on 22 can move either to 18 or 17; the man on 23 can move either to 19 or 18. The men can only move forwards, not backwards, until they have succeeded in reaching the bottom row of the adversary’s squares, When they are crowned by having a second man placed above them, They are then termed Kings, and can move either forwards or backwards as desirable.
A man may take an opponent's man by leaping over him and taking up the vacant square beyond him, the piece taken being removed from the board.
A man may take two or three men at one move, provided he can leap over each in succession. To understand this, place a white man at 18, 11, and 25, and a black man at 29, all other pieces being removed from the board. The black man can move and take the three white men, as he can leap to 22, 15, and 8, thus taking the men on squares 18, 11, and
Black.
| | 1 | | 2 | | 3 | | 4 |
| 5 | | 6 | | 7 | | 8 | |
| | 9 | | 10 | | 11 | | 12 |
| 13 | | 14 | | 15 | | 16 | |
| | 17 | | 18 | | 19 | | 20 |
| 21 | | 22 | | 23 | | 24 | |
| | 25 | | 26 | | 27 | | 28 |
| 29 | | 30 | | 31 | | 32 | |
White.
25. A king can take both backwards and forwards any number of men, as long as a square is open. Thus, place a white man on 25, 26, 27, 19, 10, 9, and 17. A black king at 29 could take all these men at once, for he could leap from 29 to 22, taking 25 man; to 31, taking 26; to 24, taking 27; to 15, taking 1g; to 6, taking 10; to 13, taking 9; and to 22, taking 17, and taking all these in one move.
If a man take other men, and in the taking reach the bottom row, he cannot go on taking, as a king, until the adversity has moved.
Example.—Place a white man at 24, 7, 16, and 8, a black at 28. The black man takes 24 by leaping to 19, takes by leaping to 12, takes 8 by leaping to 3, and is there crowned; but cannot leap to 10, thus taking the man at 7, until the adversary has moved.
The game is won when all the adversary’s men are either taken or blockaded so that they cannot move, and it is drawn two kings or less remain able to move, in spite of the
Laws.—The following are the established laws of the game, which should be learned by every person who is desirous of a draught-player.
RULES OF THE GAME OF DRAUGHTS.
The chief laws for regulating the game of draughts are as follows:—
* Each player takes the first move alternately, whether the last game be won or drawn.
* Any action which prevents the adversary from having a full view of the men is not allowed.
* The player who touches a man must play him.
* In case of standing the huff, which means omitting to take a man when an opportunity for so doing occurred, the other party may either take the man, or insist upon his man, which has been so omitted by his adversary, being taken.
* If either party, when it is his turn to move, hesitates above three minutes, the other may call upon him to play; and if, after that, he delay above five minutes longer, then he loses the game.
* In the losing game, the player can insist upon his adversary taking all the men in case opportunities should present themselves for their being so taken.
* To prevent unnecessary delay, if one color have no pieces but two kings on the board, and the other no piece but one king, the latter can call upon the former to win the game in twenty moves. If he does not finish it within that number of moves, the game to be relinquished as drawn.
* If there are three kings to two on the board, the subsequent moves are not to exceed forty.
Advice.—The men should be kept as much as possible in a wedge form towards the center of the board. Avoid moving a man on the side square, for, when there, he is deprived of half his power, being able to take in one direction only.
Consider well before you touch a man, for a man once touched must be moved,
Avoid the cowardly practice of moving a man, and then, when you discover by your adyersary's move that you have committed an error, taking your move back. Stand the consequences though the game be lost, and next time you will be more careful. A game, even if won after replacing a man, is unsatisfactory, and not to be counted a victory, and often leads to disputes. The rules are made to avoid all argument and dispute, and the more closely, therefore, you obey these, the more harmonious will be your games.
Do not talk during a game, or whistle, or fidget by drumming with the fingers, or in any way act so as to annoy or worry an adversary. A game of draughts, though only a game, may be made a training process for much more important matters. A careless, thoughtless, or worrying draught-player will, undoubtedly, be the same character in worldly matters.
Never allow the loss of a game to cause you to lose your temper, for such a proceeding shows you to be more self-sufficient than intellectual. If beaten, it proves your adversary to be more experienced or quicker-sighted than yourself, and you should, therefore, use all your faculties to discover how he beats you.
As a rule, seek to play with a better player than yourself rather than with a worse, which is merely saying, "Endeavor to improve your own game rather than to instruct a worse player."
When you lose a game, avoid all disparaging remarks, such ​as, "Oh, I should have won that if so-and-so had not occurred," etc. Your adversary who defeats you will think more highly of you if you say nothing, or merely acknowledge his greater skill.
If you find a person who defeats you easily, remember how much thought and time he must have devoted to the subject in order to obtain this advantage, and bear in mind that it is only by a similar process that you can gain like results.
GAMES.
Draughts is a game in which one is particularly called upon to estimate the skill and style of play of one's adversary. One person may very easily be drawn into a trap, where another more cautious could not be thus defeated. Again, a too cautious player may be defeated by a dashing move, whereas another opponent would win the game in consequence. We will now give one or two examples of games, calling attention to the points in each. The men are supposed to be arranged as before mentioned—white's men from 21 to 32, black's from 1 to 12. Black moves first.
| Black. | White. |
| 11 to 15. | 22 to 18. |
| 15 to 22(takes). | 22 to 18(takes). |
| 8 to 11. | 29 to 25. |
Now, at this point of the game, if white were a very young or incautious player, he might be easily tempted into a false move by black moving 11 to 16, for white, seeing a supposed advantage in position, might move 24 to 20. Let us suppose these moves to have been made, and black wins at once, for, moving 3 to 8, he compels white to take 20 to 11, and then, with a man at 8, takes 11, 18, and 25, and procures a king at 29, thus gaining a majority of two men, an advantage equivalent to the game, for, by exchanging man for man on every occasion, he would soon reduce the odds to 4 to 2, or 2 too.
If, however, black play a more cautious game, he should move 4 to 8.
White again might lose the game if he moved either 24 or 23 to 19, for black would respond by 10 to 15, when white must move from 19 to 10, black from 6 to 29, taking these men as before.
Black's best move is, perhaps, 25 to 22.
At this period of the game exchanges of men usually take place, the object being an advantage of position, as follows:
| Black. | White. |
| 9 to 14. | 18 to 9. |
| 5 to 14. | 24 to 20. |
| 6 to 9. | 22 to 18. |
| 1 to 5. | 28 to 24. |
Up to the present time no great advantage is gained on either side, the game being, perhaps, slightly in favor of black, who may cause a separation in white’s men by the following:
| Black. | White. |
| 9 to 13. | 18 to 9. |
| 5 to 14. | |
White may replay by—
Then,
| 14 to 23. | 27 to 18. |
Now, unless black moves 2 to 6, or 10 to 15, white could procure a king as follows: Suppose black had moved 12 to 16 then white 18 to 14,
| Black. | White. |
| 10 to 17. | 21 to 14. |
and whatever black now does, white must procure a King. It is under such conditions as these that the acute player often wins a game; for we shall find that the eagerness for gaining this king may cause white to be in a difficult position, carrying on the game under this supposition, we have
| Black. | White. |
| 16 to 19. | 24 to 15. |
| 11 to 18. | 13 to 9. |
| 8 to 11. | 9 to 5. |
| 18 to 22. | 26 to 17. |
| 13 to 22. | 5 to 1 | (King). |
| 2 to 6. | 1 to 10. |
| 7 to 14. | 32 to 28. |
| 14 to 17. | 28 to 24. |
| 3 to 8. | 31 to 27. |
| 8 to 12. | 27 to 23. |
Black must now lose a man, and therefore the game, a follows—
| Black. | White. |
| 22 to 26, or 17 to 21. | 23 to 18. |
| 26 to 31, or 22 to 25. | 19 to 15, and white wins. |
Black. White.
The Double Corners.—When there is one king against two, the rule is that the game is drawn unless it be won in at least twenty moves. If the player does not know how to block up in the double corners, this may easily be a drawn game. We will now show the moves for blocking in the double corners, giving the case that will require the greatest number of moves.
Black's kings at 1 and 5; white's at 10.
| Black. | White. |
| 5 to 9. | 10 to 15. |
| 9 to 14. | 15 to 19. |
| 14 to 18. | 19 to 24. |
| 18 to 23. | 24 to 28 | (reaches double corner.) |
| 1 to 6. | 28 to 32. |
| 6 to 10. | 32 to 28. |
| 10 to 15. | 28 to 32. |
| 15 to 19. | 32 to 28. |
| 23 to 27. | 28 to 32. |
| 19 to 23. | 32 to 28. |
| 27 to 32. | 28 to 24. |
| 23 to 18. | 24 to 19. |
| 32 to 28. | 19 to 16. |
| 18 to 15. | 16 to 20, |
| 15 to 11, and wins in 15 moves. ||
Had black moved from 15 to 19 at last, white could have gone to 24, and the game would have been prolonged. There is no position on the board where two kings cannot defeat one in fifteen moves.
It is usual with two experienced players to pronounce the game drawn when there are two kings only on each side, one of which is enabled to reach the double corners, There are however, two or three chances of catching an incautious player.
The following example will serve to illustrate cases. White's ​positions are king at 28 and at 30; black’s at 24and 19. Black moves
| Black. | White. |
| 24 to 27. | 28 to 32. |
| 19 to 23. | 30 to 26. |
| 23 to 30. | 32 to 23. |
| 30 to 25. | 23 to 26. |
| 25 to 30. | 26 to 22, | and wins. |
Another case may be tried with caution, and which is as follows, two kings each: black at 15 and 23; white at 16 and 25. White moves,
| Black. | White. |
| 25 to 22. | 23 to 18. | |
| 16 to 11. | 18 to 25. |
| 11 to 18, | and wins next move by blocking. | and wins next move by blocking. |
These are not positions likely to entrap very good players, but succeed very often with average hands.
The game in these instances resulted in the winner having what is called "the move." To ascertain whether you have the move of any one of your adversary's men, examine the situation of each. If your opponent has a black square at a right angle under his man, you have the move, and vice versa.
Draughts is in reality a deeply interesting game, and one that is very rarely appreciated.
THE LOSING GAME OF DRAUGHTS.
7 ane game of draughts is rarely understood, and there- ly appreciated. We believe that there is even more tht required in the losing than in the winning game of
s, for it is equally as necessary to see several moves on d the game may be almost instantly lost bya thought-
in at the losing game we must compel our adversary to our men, and the novice usually commences by losing y men as possible. This proceeding is an error; the s the advantage who has the most men on the table, be instanced by one or two examples. white to have a king on each of the four squares; 1, black, one on 31, First, we wil! suppose that white 's thus :— White. Black. 4to8, gt to 27. 3to7. 27 to 23. 2 to 6. 23 to 18. 1tog. st now retreat, for, if he moves to 14 or 15, the game ost, as he may be compelled to take each of his opponent’s in succession. Thus, suppose he move to 14 :— ) White. Black.
A ew ws
sto 9. 14to 5. 6to 9. 5 to 14. 7 to to. 14to 7. 8 to 11 and wins,
Ss move must be a retreat in answer to white’s £ to
Black. White. 18 to 22. sto 9 22 to 26. 6tom 26 to 31. 14 to 18,
to.
n of each, If your opponent has a black square at_ GAMES OF SKILL. 425 At this point, if white advanced from 18 to 23 to be taken, he would lose the game unless very careful, as the lost man would have the move against him. His best move, therefore, would be 18 to 25. If black moves to 24, he loses. Black had better move to 32, and white 6 to ro.
Black. White. 32 to 28. 8 to rr. 28 to 32, 15 to 19. 32 to 28. 19 to 24. 28 to 19. to to 15. tgto 3 Z txto 7, and wins,
We will now point out the best ‘‘traps” for the losing game. .
Suppose white’s men to be placed from 2r to 32. If then we can secure one of the adversary’s. men at 21, we are almost certain to lose all our men first, and thus to win the gamie, for, by keeping this man blocked until required, he can be made ‘use of at the right time, Let us take si example, white moving first.
A White. Black. 22 to 18. g to 14. 18 to 9 ‘ 5 to 14 (very bad play; at to17. 14to 21. this ought to 24 to 20, trto16. have been 6 20 to rr, 7to 16, to 13.)
2g to 18 (nota good move, but will ro to 15. x8tor. serve to illustrate the 8 to 15. 28 to 24. advantageof manat 21.) 15 to co.
24 t0 15. 6 to 10. 15t0 6. Ito 10. 26 to 22, 4to 8 27 to 23. 16 tO 19. 23 to 16, 12 to 19. 22 to 18. to to 15, to 4 gto 8. 4torr. 2to 7 ato 2.
White now has six men on the board, whilst black has only two; but white can reduce this number at any time by moving go to 26, Black can only move Ig to 24 or to 23. Suppose he move it to 23, then it will be better for white to reduce black to one as follows :—
White. Black. 3 to 27. 23 to 26. go to 23. 21 to 30. 2g to 25. go to at. 32 to 28, arto17. 28 to 24. 17 to 14.
If black move to 18, r0, or g, he loses at once, so 14 to 17 is the best move. If white move 27 to 23 he loses the game, for black would move 17 to 22, from which white could not escape. Hence the game would be best played by
White. Black.
ato 6, 17 to at,
6 to 10. arto 25, to to 14. 25 to 30. 14 to 17
The game might now be prolonged, but still to win the losing game with the four against one is almost a certainty, as
HE game of dominoes is frequently looked upon as a trivial amusement, but those who are well acquainted with it agree that it affords room for much curious calculation. It is by no means a mere game of chance. Let any ordinary player enter the lists against an old and experienced hand, and he will soon discover that it requires something besides good weapons to come off victorious in this as in most other contests. In fact, it is as much a game of skill as any of the card games. A moderately good player can generally tell what his adversary has in his hand, by his style of play; and by calculating two or three moves in advance, he may either block the game or leave it open, just as he finds it will suit his purpose.
The ordinary game—technically termed "double sixes"—is played with twenty-eight dominoes. In some parts of England—chiefly in the North—they use "double nines" and "double twelves." But it signifies little how many dominoes are used, the rules and principles of the game, as here laid down, will, in most cases, equally apply.
HOW TO COMMENCE THE GAME.
In the English game it is usual to play a rubber of three games; but this, of course, is subject to-arrangement.
After the dominoes have been well shuffled, each player draws one, and he who draws the domino containing the smallest number of pips wins "the down;" in plainer English, he wins the privilege of playing first. Sometimes a different method of deciding who shall have "the down" is adopted. One of the players draws a domino, and without showing it, asks if it is odd or even. If the adversary guesses right he wins "the down;" if, on the contrary, he guesses wrong, he loses it. The latter method is the more common of the two, A third method is in use on the Continent. The person holding the highest double has the "fose," or "down," and he commences by playing that domino. If there should be no doubles, then the person holding the highest domino has the Pose. However, it is quite immaterial which of plans is adopted. The dominoes having been shuffled, each player takes six or seven, as may be agreed upon.
If it is found that one of the players has drawn more than the number agreed upon, his adversary withdraws the extra number, and puts them back on the heap, keeping the face downwards, of course. Each player then takes up his dominoes, and the first player commences by putting down a his dominoes, after which his adversary joins one to it, containing on one of its sections the same number of pips as are marked upon adjoining of the domino first played. They thus play alternately till the game may become so "blocked" that one of the players cannot "go," His adversary will then continue to play as long as there is an end open. If he should succeed in getting rid of all his men he wins the game; but if the game should be blocked at both ends before either player has played out, they compare the aggregate number of pips on all the dominoes in each hand, and whoever has the smallest number wins the game.
GENERAL MAXIMS.
* Endeavor to play so as to keep both ends open, so that you may be sure of being able to "go" next time.
* Play out your heavy dominoes first, because, if the game becomes blocked, you will then have fewer pips to count.
* Contrive to play so that the numbers at both ends shall be those of which you hold the most. By this means you may often block your adversary till you are played out.
* If you have made both ends alike, and your adversary plays, follow him at that end, as the chances are that he cannot go at the other, which you may keep Span for yourself until you are able to play at his end.
* It is sometimes an advantage to hold heavy dominoes as they not unfrequently enable you to obtain what is called good "follow;" and if your adversary should hold none but low dominoes, he would not be able to go, thus enabling you to play five or six times consecutively, or even to play out.
* When you have sole command over both ends you are generally in a position to "block" the game or not, as think most expedient for your own game. In such a case you must be guided by the number of dominoes you hold compared with those in your adversary's hands; and another element for your consideration would be whether yours are light or heavy. If they are light, and fewer in number than your adversary’s, of course your best policy is to close the game once and count, But in this you must learn to calculate from your adversary’s style of play whether his hand is light or heavy.
* At the commencement of the game it is better to have a variety in hand.
* If you hold a "double," with two of the same number, it is better to play the double before either of the others. Sometimes you will be obliged to play one, in which case you must endeavor to force the double.
* If you hold a double, and one other of the same number, play both consecutively; but if you are unable to do that, endeavor at any rate to let the double go first. ​In playing against "the down," endeavor to deceive your opponent by playing a domino or two at each end indifferently. This is better than playing to his last domino, as it leads him to believe you cannot go at that end, while at the same time you may be simply keeping both ends open.If your adversary has perception other of a number of which you hold several, with a view of forcing him to play at his end, and shutting it against the Dominos he was keeping it for.If you hold several doubles, wait till your adversary makes the number for them in preference to making them for self; otherwise, a good player will see what you are aimed at, and will block the double. But if you hold a double with several duplicates, and can bring that number at both ends, do so.
* If your adversary cannot go at one end, and you hold the double of that end, it is better that you should play at the other-as long as you can. When you are blocked at that end, you may then play your double, and your adversary will then in most cases be obliged to open the other end for you.
* It is generally considered that a light hand, yet with no number missing, is the Lest for ordinary play. The following, for example, would be a very fine hand: 6/3, 5/4, 2/1, 1/0, 2/0, 0/0. An example of a bad hand would be: 6/6, 5/6, 6/2, 2/2, 2/1, 1/1; but the worst possible hand would be the following: 6/6, 5/5, 4/4, 3/3, 2/2, 1/1. The latter, however, would seldom occur in actual play.
* It does not necessarily follow that because a hand is heavy it must therefore lose. Provided it is equally varied, it has an equal chance of success with a light hand. The disadvantage of a heavy hand is shown when the game becomes blocked, and has to be decided by counting.
* In leading "the down" from a hand consisting of a high double and several light dominoes, lead the double, and afterwards endeavor to obtain command of both ends. Suppose for example, you hold the following hand: 5/6, 2/2, 2/3, 2/4, 1/0, 5/6; it would be better to play the 5/6, as your other double can be forced by the aid of the 2/4 and 2/3.
* It will at all times be found a difficult thing, in an equal game and between equal players, for the second player to win.
* Endeavor to bring both ends as often as you can to a number of which you have several duplicates, for by that mean; you may block your adversary.
* In blocking the game, you must be cautious that you do not block it to yourself, and leave it open to your adversary.
* During the game look over the dominoes which have been played, so that you: may calculate what numbers are likely to be soon run out, and what numbers your opponent is likely to be short of.
* Do not push the game to a block if you hold a heavy but play out your heaviest first, and keep both ends open.
* Use your judgment freely. It is not always the best policy to adhere too strictly to the rules laid down in books. In a a wily player will oftentimes find it expedient to play a speculative, eccentric game, apparently quite at variance with the ordinary "laws."
* Keep perfectly quiet, attentively watch your opponent’s moves, and prevent him, if you can, from obtaining an insight into your play.
* Last (though not least), don’t lose your temper.
ALL FIVES.
This game stands next in popularity to the preceding one. The same number of dominoes are taken, or as many as may The object of the game is to contrive so to play that the aggregate number of pips on the dominoes at both ends shall number 5, 10, 15, or 20. If they number 5, the player who makes the point counts one; if 10, two; if 15, three; if 20, four.
In order to make our meaning clearer, we give an illustration. Suppose that at one end there is 0/0, and at the other a five. The next player then plays 5/5 to the single five, and scores two, because the aggregate number of pips on the dominoes at both ends is ten. It the opponent should follow up by playing the 0/5 to the 0/0, he, of course, scores three.
To give another illustration. Suppose at one end is 6/6, and the next player places at the other end 4/4, he scores four for making twenty.
If the game becomes blocked, he who holds the least number of pips counts one.
The custom as to what number shall be "up," is different in different parts of the country. In some places it is ten; in others fifteen; in others again, twenty. The number ought to be agreed upon at the commencement of the game. In our opinion it adds to the interest of the game to select the lower numbers.
Sometimes the game is so played that he who makes five counts five; ten is made to count ten, and so on; but in that case not fewer than 50, and not more than 100, points should constitute the game.
As we have shown, the material point in which this game differs from the previous one is that you count the fives, from which circumstance it derives its name.
The next best thing to making fives yourself is to prevent your adversary from doing so; and when you do give him the opportunity of making a point it should only be in order that you may make two or three points yourself.
When your adversary fails to avail himself of a good chance, you may presume that he does not hold such and such dominoes, and from that and like indications, which you must carefully store up in your memory, you will be able to form a tolerably accurate estimate of his hand. You should never omit to turn these indications to good account.
There is only one domino in the whole pack which can be led without the next player being able to make a point from it—namely 2/3. Always lead that if possible.
If you must play one of two dominoes, either of which you fear your adversary will turn to his account, of course you must play that by which you think you will be likely to lose the least.
It is good practice occasionally to take a survey of the game as far as it has gone, not only in order to refresh your memory as to what has been played, but also that you may form an opinion, if possible, of what your opponent's "little game" is. If there are good grounds for coming to the conclusion ​that he holds heavy numbers while you hold light ones, block up the game as speedily as you can, and proceed to count. To understand your opponent’s hand is a most important matter, and we do not think we have insisted on it too much. Good players will tell you that they have won many games by watching closely the opponent's moves, and drawing therefrom inferences respecting the dominoes he holds in hand. We need not add, the greatest caution must be used in forming these inferences.
THE DRAWING GAME.
The same number of dominoes are used, and the lead is drawn for in the same manner in this as in the previously described games.
The difference is that when a player cannot go, he must draw a domino from the pack. If he cannot then go, he must draw another, and so on until he is able to continue the game.
He who plays out first, or, in case the game becomes blocked, he who holds the smallest number of pips, wins.
The French have a different way of playing this game. The player who holds the highest double, or, in the event of there being no double, the highest domino, has the pose or lead. The second player, should he be unable to go, may draw all the remaining dominoes except two, which must remain untaken. If he leave more than two, the first player, should he require them in order to continue the game, may appropriate the surplus, still leaving two on the table.
If a player cannot go, it is compulsory that he draw till he gets hold of a domino that will enable him to continue the game.
Each player may take the pose alternately, or the winner in the first instance may retain it, as agreed upon.
The French method of counting is also different. When a player has played out, he counts the pips in his opponent's hand, and scores them to his own account. In case the game should become blocked, the player holding the fewest pips scores the number of pips in his adversary's hand to his own account, each pip counting one. A game consists of from 20 to 100 points,‘ according to agreement.
With respect to the English method of playing this game, the general instructions and maxims given on the other games apply equally to this. But a few words must be added with regard to the French play. He who has the highest double is compelled to play first, and cannot draw any more dominoes until it is his turn to play again, but his opponent may draw all but two, which two must remain untaken during that game. But the second player should not draw more than half the dominoes, unless really compelled by the badness of his hand, as by this means it will leave a chance of his opponent having as many to draw. A good player at times might be justified in taking all but two, for by the calculation and judgment obtained by having them, he might be enabled to play them all before his opponent could play his five or six dominoes, as the case may be. Should the second player hold a good hand, comprising dominoes of every denomination, he should not draw until compelled, If he should happen to draw high doubles, he ought to continue to draw until he holds several of that number.
It is not always the player holding the greatest number gets out first, because as he has some of almost every den nation, his adversary will keep playing to him, and the odds are that he (the adversary) will be able to play out first. Still in many games, the one holding the largest number of dominoes possesses this advantage, that he has the power to keep both ends open to himself but closed to his opponent, and he may thus run out.
In order to be able to play out first with the largest number (supposing that only two dominoes remain untaken), you should by all means, and in the first place, endeavor to ascertain what those two are. You may arrive at this in two Suppose you hold so many of a particular number that those already played they make six out of the seven of that denomination, you must by all means keep playing them.
As an illustration, we will suppose you hold in your hand four threes, and that two other threes have already been played, Now, if you play your threes, and your adversary, not being able to play to them, becomes blocked, it is quit clear that one of the dominoes on the table is a three. Then, if those you hold in your hand are—3/2, 4/3, 2/6, and 3/3, and you find among the dominoes played 3/0 and 3/1, it is, of course, quite safe to conclude that the domino which is left is the 3/6.
The second plan is this. If during the course of the game you have given your opponent opportunities of playing a certain double which you do not yourself hold, you may be certain that it is one of the left dominoes.
A little experiment, in order to test the nature of your adversary's hand, so as, however, not materially to injure your own, would often be found more expedient than groping all the while, as it were, in the dark.
By carefully looking over your own hand, you may judge pretty correctly as to whether your adversary's is light or heavy.
It is only by taking into account all these and other nice points that a player can possibly be successful.
Having formed an idea of your opponent's hand, you should make it an object to "run out," or play so that he may blocked, or that he may be obliged to leave both ends open for you to play out.
Having given some instructions to the player who holds larger number of dominoes, we must now proceed to give a few hints to the lesser hand.
If, holding the lesser hand, you can contrive to play a few moves at first without being blocked, you ought to be pretty sure of winning; because, by that time, your hand will have become so disproportionately small, that your opponent will have some difficulty in preventing you from playing out out blocking himself. This, therefore, must be one of your main objects.
If the game goes pretty equal, bring out your strong suits. Wherever you are short of a particular suit, if you find that many of that number have already been played, you need not fear that your adversary will be able to block you in regard to it, for you will, of course, infer that they are as scarce in his hand as in your own. Endeavor to bring these rules to bear, reserving to your discretion as to whether you should in any wise depart from them, or use such modifications as the contingencies of the moment require. ​Page:Collier's Cyclopedia of Commercial and Social Information.djvu/459 ​Page:Collier's Cyclopedia of Commercial and Social Information.djvu/460