# The Travels of Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch/Volume 1/Part 1/Book 1/Section 4

Sect. IV.
Constantinople.
We entered Constantinople in the forenoon of Wednesday the twentieth of Teshrin the first. Since our departure from Aleppo, it was just three months complete on this day. We alighted in the Monastery of the Resurrection, which is within the gate of the Kabr, and near to the Patriarch's palace. Our own Patriarch had sent from Broussa a Letter to Kyr Paisius, the Patriarch of Constantinople, and to his Metropolitans, to ask their permission to visit Constantinople, ​as was the ancient custom. With this they were exceedingly pleased; as, in contrariety to those who preceded him, he had done the civility required: and they immediately sent him a Συστατιϰὸν (or Patriarchal Letter), with permission, in the fullest magnificence. And now, in the evening, our Lord the Patriarch begged leave to visit them the following day. On Thursday morning, therefore, the Patriarch of Constantinople sent to him, at the moment of his intended coming, the aforesaid Metropolitans; who repaired to his presence, and conducted him to the Patriarch's palace. As soon as he entered the gate, two priests met him; the one carrying the Gospel, the other an image; and also the deacons, with the thurible, dressed in their copes: and he kissed the Gospel and the image, according to custom; and the Deacons incensed him. Then one of the Metropolitans put into his hand a silver crosier; and the singing chaplains (المصليين) began to chaunt Ἄξιον ἐστὶν, till they entered with him into the Patriarchal church, which is dedicated in the name of St. George. Whilst he was performing his devotions to the images which are upon the door of the tabernacle, behold the Patriarch of Constantinople came down; and, entering the church in his μανδύα (pall), stood before his throne. They placed our Lord the Patriarch at a throne opposite to him. And the deacon said, "Have mercy on us, O God, according to thy great mercy:" and he made mention of Alexis, Emperor of Moscow, and of the Empress Maria; of Vasili Beg, of Moldavia, and his consort Katherina; of Matthew Beg, of Wallachia, and his wife Helena; then of Kyr Paisius, the Patriarch of Constantinople, and Kyr Macarius, Patriarch of Antioch; and the chaplains chaunted at each name Κύριε ἐλέισον ("O Lord, have mercy upon us"), three times.
Upon the conclusion of the service by the officiating priest, the two Patriarchs came down from their thrones; and having granted pardon to each other for their faults, they walked together, two persons preceding them with large silver candlesticks holding a camphor-taper; and the Metropolitans following behind, till they mounted up to the Patriarch"s divan. Here they sat down to table, whilst the chaplains continued to sing. The Constantinopolitan treated our Lord with all attention, and abundant kindness and good-will. They presented so many different kinds of food, and such varieties of wine, that their description is impossible. Towards the evening, the Patriarchs went down to perform the evening prayers; and then took leave of each other. Our Lord the Patriarch returned to the Monastery, with the Metropolitans and clergy before and behind him; with the Kabi Kachia (قبي كاخيا) ​of Moldavia, and the Kabi Kachia of Wallachia, and others, following, till he dismissed them with a blessing. The grandees among the Christians continually came to pay their salutations to him.
On the eve of the Sunday of the (الجندريين), our Lord the Patriarch went over to the Patriarchal church, at the invitation of the Constantinopolitan; and they both entered in their μανδύαs (palls) together, and performed at the same time their devotions to the images; and there was standing before each of them a man holding two silver candlesticks with camphor-tapers, from the beginning of the service to the end. The Καθίσματα of the Psalms were recited by one of the deacons, standing between the two Patriarchs. At the Δόξα (Doxology) the priests began to perform, two by two, their Μετάνοιαs to the Constantinopolitan, a first and second time; and as far as five couple, also to the Antiochian: then they went in, and put on their copes, and walked round the Εἴσοδος; and afterwards drew up near the Patriarch, in the form of a half circle. After the deacon had incensed the doors of the tabernacle, throwing the thurible at a distance; and then the two Patriarchs, and the priests, and the rest of the assistants within the choir; the priests began to chaunt "O Divine Light," in a very loud voice. Then the deacon returned to incense the Patriarchs; and the priests began to perform Κορώνη to them, two and two, till they entered the tabernacle, and put off their copes: for such is their custom, on the eve of a Sunday or distinguished festival. These priests belong to the churches of the districts around the Patriarch's palace; and this is a sign that they are preparing overnight for mass, as we mentioned before. At the end of the prayer, after they had taken their blessing together, the two Patriarchs went outside the church, with two torch-bearers before them, and the whole congregation standing in rows. Then one of the torch-bearers shouted with a loud voice, "Paisius, of all holiness, Archbishop of the City of Constantinople, the New Rome, and Patriarch of the Inhabited World, "Πολλὰ τὰ ἔτη" (May your years be many!) three times: whilst the Patriarch, raising ​his right hand, was blessing the people. In like manner, the hearer of the other torches cried out, "Macarius, of all goodness, Patriarch of the City of God, Antioch the Great, and of All the East:" and he said, Πολλὰ τὰ ἔτη, three times; whilst the Antiochian also raised his right hand, and blessed the people. Then they put off their μανδύαs (palls); and the Constantinopolitan took the other up with him to his palace, where they dined together. Afterwards, he accompanied his guest to the gate at the lower part of the house, where he parted with him; and the Antiochian returned to his monastery, in a very happy disposition of mind.
On the morning of the afore-mentioned Sunday, we repaired again to the same church; and the Metropolitans came out to the court-yard to meet our master: and having robed him in his μανδύα (pall), they went before and behind him into the church, two silver candlesticks being carried before him. On his entry, he gave his blessing to the congregation, and went and stood at his throne. After the Πᾶσα πνοὴ (Every breath), the Constantinopolitan descended from his throne to kiss the images and impart his blessing to the congregation; and after him the Antiochian: then the chief priests, two by two: afterwards the priests and the rest of the congregation paid their devotions to the images. For in all the country of Greece, in Moldavia and in Wallachia, there is not a single person who does not kiss the images at this time of the early morning; and afterwards at the end of the mass, when they have received the Ἀντίδωρα (the sanctified bread), even to the women and children. As in our country, they go out after the mass; but here they go out also after the Ὄρθρον (Matins), and return in two hours time. When the deacon has thrown incense at the Alleluia, he descends from the Tabernacle and incenses the Patriarch at his throne; and then receives from him a Κορώνη, for the reading of the Gospel. Afterwards he incenses the doors of the Tabernacle and the images, and goes in to take the Gospel from the hand of the Minister: then coming out with it from the north door, he ascends the Ἄμϐων (pulpit), which is on the north side of the church. The chaplains draw out to a great length the chaunt Εἰς πολλὰ ἔτη Δέσποτα (May the years of our Lord be many); whilst the deacon descends from the Ἄμϐων (pulpit), and, coming to the Patriarch, presents him the Gospel to kiss. They repeat several times, at the end of the Prone, "O ye Catechumens (ϰατηχούμενοι, admonished), go out." In the middle of the Prone is the Συνέπετε; that is, when he says at the end of the prayer for peace, "We pray to the Lord," he joins to it, "For the salvation of his Highness," and, "For the salvation of the whole world," "For this consecrated house," "For the Patriarch," "For the Emperor and Empress," and ​"Help," &c. and "Σοφία" (Wisdom), and the rest, whilst the Minister is reading the Εὐχήν. After the Proclamation, he repeats again, "For the salvation" &c. and "For this church," "For the moderation of the weather," "For those who are travelling by sea," and "For our salvation," and "Help," and "Σοφία," and so on, whilst the Minister is finishing the Εὐχήν. Their retinue and humility are very great; and their Μετάνοιαs (prostrations) down to the ground are frequent:—I am speaking of the Greek Clergy who assist at mass, and particularly of their behaviour at the moment of taking the holy mysteries. The deacon mentions the name of the Patriarch, whilst he carries the body. At the end of the mass the two Patriarchs distributed the Ἀντίδωρα (sanctified bread), each on his own side. At their departure from the church, the torch-bearers repeated the same words as they had done the evening before; and the Patriarch's Janissaries constantly preceded them, walking on to clear the way before them, with their swords and staves. On this day there was also a banquet, from which we did not return home till the evening. On the eve of the Feast of St. Demetrius we assisted at vespers in the church of the Monastery, which is dedicated to St. George.
In the morning, the Patriarch sent to our master two of the Metropolitans, and the Πρωτοσύγγελος, and the Chief of the Deacons, who conducted him to the Patriarchal church; and, after mass, he took him again to dine with him. It may be observed, that our Christian brethren of the Greek nation, wherever they are, all fast the Lent of St. Demetrius, beginning with the first day of the month Teshrin the first, and abstaining entirely from (الزفر) fat till the day of his festival. In like manner they fast for Saint Michael, from the first of Teshrin the second, for the space of eight days. They have also many other Lents, besides these, for other Saints: which, please God, we will hereafter mention.
This is the description of the Patriarchal church in Constantinople, dedicated by name to St. George. Before it is a court-yard; and on the north side is a succession of pent-houses, where the Writers of the Patriarch have their dwelling. In front of the church is a large pent-house, from which you descend into it by steps. This church is of the usual form of Catholic churches, having three compartments, each with a cupola. It has a second door going out from the pent-house on the north side. Over this compartment the women are stationed; but they have an outward door into the street. The church contains three tabernacles, and is very spacious. The chairs of the choir are in two equal rows, ​reaching from before the tabernacle to near the door of the church. Behind them are other rows of seats, and also all round the church. The Patriarch's throne is between the rows of seats on the right-hand side; and is very lofty, with an ascent of steps. It is all dove-tailed, and is a noble piece of workmanship. Opposite to it is a similar throne, but inferior in height, intended for any Patriarch Visiter, in the row on the left-hand side. As to the Εἰϰωνόστασις (القونسطاس), it is very lofty; and the large images on the doors of the tabernacle are of very great dimensions, painted at Moscow. The picture of St. George is entirely executed by the hand of Our Lady. The candlesticks are large and magnificent. The Πολυέλεον, to which they give the name of Χορός, is all of yellow brass, worked by the hammer, and made at Venice, resembling that which is in the Church of the Holy Resurrection. The tabernacles are spacious; and behind that which is on the north side is a door admitting to the Book Treasury, whence you go out behind the church, into a court that opens into the street. This is so contrived, in order that when the priests are suddenly visited by any natural want, they may satisfy it, without going cut in face of the people. On the arch of the south tabernacle are painted the figures of Abraham and Melchisedee. The beard of the latter is white, and longer than the beard of Abraham. His head is bound with a red fillet, like Daniel the Prophet's, and his hair hangs loose. He is clothed in a vest resembling the Φελώνιον (sacerdotal robe) of St. Gregory, bishop of Armenia, with an Armenian (طقس) dress, and a brocade (زيق) collar. He carries in his hands a kind of white boat, filled with something red, like wine; and having upon it the figure of three white round loaves, with two red crosses on the top. These are the bread and wine which he offered to the Lord. Over is written Ὁ δίϰαιος Μελχίσεδεϰ (The righteous Melchizedek). Above the altar, or place of sacrifice, are two portraits; the Patriarch of Alexandria, and the Messiah standing before him in the shape of a young man, under a cupola suported by two pillars. His garment is rent; and the Patriarch says to him, "Lord, who rent thy garment?" The answer issuing from the mouth of our Lord is: "Indeed Arius, who fell upon me. Is the mouth of Hell lower?" than what he fell. Where the officiating priest washes his hands is a small marble pitcher (جرن) with a handle (حبلية), which empties into another standing upon a pillar under it. As to the two portraits above mentioned, there is an ​imitation of them in all the churches of Constantinople and its territory, as there is also of the Lavacrum just described. The Ἄμϐων, or pulpit, is on the north side, as we mentioned before; is very high; and looks over the throne, occupied, on the present occasion by the Patriarch of Antioch.
In one corner of this church, on the right-hand side as you enter, is a repository, with a grating of iron wire; containing the bodies of Saints, which we requested permission to kneel down to and to kiss. They therefore took us inside; and the Archons came, bringing with them the keys of the bolts. First they broke the seals, and then opened the several chests, which are three; the first containing the body of Saint Theophanu, the Empress, preserved entire, as she was in her clothes, with her (تاسومة probably تاصمه) spinning yarn at her feet. We took a blessing from her, and then from the body of Saint Ishmonita, mother of the Seven Macabites. She is an old woman, remaining entire, with her clothes upon her, buttoned in the manner of the Franks. In the third chest is Saint Euphemia, the Martyr, entire, except that the head is wanting. In a corner of this repository is an iron cage, within which is seen one half of the pillar to which they tied our Lord the Messiah, when they scourged him. Its colour inclines to green. Above it is a lamp, which burns night and day. Whilst we were taking a blessing from it, one of the persons present informed us that the other half of it is at Rome, and that he had paid his devotions to it. They now replaced the seals upon the reliques, and we went out. It is to be observed, that the whole of the treasure belonging to the Patriarchal Church is in the hands of its Vakeels or Attorneys, and not entrusted to the Patriarch. It is they, also, who pay all the pensions and other expenses attending the Patriarch's Court.
The Palace and Divan of the Patriarch are built upon an eminence outside the church inclosure; and command a view of Galata, of Scutari, of the Sea of Marmora, &c. At the upper part is a secret door, giving admission to the Monastery of the Resurrection: for between the Patriarch's palace and this monastery is the city gate from the inner wall; and whereas it is the custom, upon shutting up the gates of Constantinople in the evening, to take the keys to the Aga of the Janissaries, and, on account of the distance, not to open them again till morning, we occasionally came and knocked at this private gate, and, through it, went down into the church.
​The station of the Chiefs of the Priesthood (Archbishops) within the church is from the left-hand of the Patriarch to the church door. On his other hand are stationed the Κληρός (Clergy), and the singers or chaplains, as far as very near the door of the Tabernacle; so that the northern side of the church is left entirely to the common priests and the deacons. There is, of course, upon the southern door of the Tabernacle, the figure of the Cherubim with the flaming sword.
* ↑ The Kabi Kachia of Moldavia and the Kabi Kachia of Wallachia are the Agents of the Princes of those two Provinces; who reside at Constantinople, to transact the political and ecclesiastical business of their Masters with the Porte and the Greek Patriarchate.
* ↑ "The Καθίσματα of the Psalms."] The Book of Psalms is, in the Greek Church, divided into twenty Καθίσματα or portions (literally Sessions); which are read at certain times, according to the regulations of the Rubric.
* ↑ "Their Μετάνοιαs"—inclinations of the body, amounting almost to prostrations, which the priests make to the Patriarch, and Archbishops, proportioned to their respective dignities, at certain periods of the service.
* ↑ Πολλὰ τὰ ἔτη ("Many years to you!") is also, in common intercourse, the usual salutation.
* ↑ Πρωτοσύγγελος.] The Protosyngelos is the chief officer of the Patriarch, through whom the business of the Patriarchate is for the most part conducted.
* ↑ Εἰϰωνόστασις.] The Iconostasis is a stand placed near the entrance of the church, for the reception of the picture of the Saint of the festival or day. The people, on entering the church, prostrate them selves before this picture, and kiss it; and light each a small wax taper before it, which they purchase, for the purpose, at the door of the church.
* ↑ "Mother of the Seven Macabites."] I suppose this to be the mother of the seven Jews tortured and put to death by Antiochus, as related in the 7th chapter of the Second Book of Maccabees.