# Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 22/Remnant of Official Log of the Columbia

REPRINT OF
BOIT'S LOG OF THE COLUMBIA, 1790-1793.
[Annotations by Judge F. W . Howay and Mr. T. C. Elliott]
Remarks on the Ship Columbia's voyage from Boston, (on a Voyage round the Globe).
BY JOHN BOIT
N. B. The dates etc. is by Nautical Account (Not Civill).
The Ship Columbia was fitted out for a four years cruize, on a trading voyage to the N. W. Coast of America, China etc about 250 tons burthen, mounted 12 Carriage Guns, and navi- gated with 50 men (including Officers) own'd chiefly by Sam'l Brown, Joseph Barrell and Crowell Hatch Esq'rs, and Commanded by Robert Gray. Cargo consisted of Blue Cloth, Copper and Iron.
1790, September 28. Latt. of Boston 42 25' N.; Long. 70 31' W. from London. Left Boston Sept. 28th, 1790, with the wind from the western board, and the next day pass'd Cape Cod. On the 30th the wind having chang'd to the East'd and blowing heavy, obliged us to bear away, and we anchor'd the same evening, in Herring Cove, on the west side Cape Cod, in 15 fm. muddy bottom, but not liking our situation, we got under way the following morning, and anchor'd the same evening in Nantasket Roads, in 7 fm. Blowing weather, from the eastern board.
October 2. Wind at SW. Weigh'd and came to sail, stood to sea On the 3d pass'd Cape Cod, at 3 leagues distance. Generally blowing hard, with squalls of rain.
8. N. Latt. 40 30' ; W. Long. 55 43' ; Aizi. 14 35' W. O. . Ship sails dull, but is a fine seaboat. Crew appears to be a set of fine fellows.
10. N. Latt. 39 58' ; W. Long. 52 38' ; Amp'd 14 38' W. Weather more pleasant, winds generally from SW. ​
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16. N. Latt 35 37'; W. Long. 37 31'; Azi. 14 35' W. 2 Weather generally pleasant, winds from the NE.
18. N. Latt. 34 33' ; W. Long. 31 40' ; Amp'd 14 ZZ W. Fair weather, wind from NW.
22. N. Latt. 28 46'; W. Long, 24 37' Azi. 14 54' W. Pleasant weather. Crew all well.
23. N. Latt. 26 41'; W. Long. 24 16'; Azi. 14 54' W. Serene, pleasant weather. Winds from the North'd.
24. N. Latt. 24 5Z; W. Long. 24 10'; Amp'd 14 22' W. Serene, pleasant weather. Winds from SE.
25. N. Latt. 24 12'; W. Long. 24 7'; Azi. 14 26' W. Serene, pleasant weather. Winds from SE.
27. N. Latt. 22 0'; W. Long. 23 0'; Azi. 14 19* W. O. <t. Pleasant weather, winds from the NW. Plenty of Dolphin and Skip-jacks playing round us.
30. N. Latt. 20 ; W. Long 23 ; This day took the NE. trade winds, after experiencing one day's calm (between the variable and trades).
November 1. N. Latt. 17 16'; W. Long. 22 30'; In the course of this day, say the Island of Sal, (one of the Cape de Verd Isles), 29 l / 2 days from Boston light house (a "long passage). Pass'd it to the Eastward and bore away to the South'd, high land. Crew are all in health, although the reg- ulation of the ship as respects cleanliness among them, is not strict.
TOWARDS CAPE HORN.
4. N. Latt. 12 15'; W. Long. 23 6'; Azi. 13 28' W. This day lost the NE. trade winds, and immediately took the wind from the Southward.
7. N. Latt. 9 16'; W. Long. 22 35'; Amp'd 11 52' W. Light variable winds, pleasant warm weather, attended at times with sharp lightning.
9. N. Latt. 7 21'; W. Long. 22 13'. Squally weather, with rain, with sharp lightning and heavy thunder, many water
2 "In the azimuth compass the circumference of the card is divided into degrees and parts by a vernier, and is fitted up with sight-vanes to take ampli- tudes and azimuths, for the purpose of determining the variation of the compass by observation. The variation is applied to the magnetic course shown by the steer- ing compass and thus the true course with respect to the meridian becomes known." Encyclopaedia Britannica (gth ed.) VI 0225. >W. C. F. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 267
spouts in different directions. Experience very heavy squalls. Winds all round the compass since losing the trades. Many vessells in sight.
14. N. Latt. 5 4'; W. Long. 22 13'. Winds continue very variable and squally. This day spoke two ships: one a Portuguese from Lisbon bound to Rio Janeiro; the other an English waleman from England, for the Brazil coast. The Captain (by name Duller) was an American.
18. N. Latt. 3 48'; W. Long. 23 3(X. This day Capt. Buller left us, his ship sailing much faster than ours. Winds and weather still remains very unsettled, with hard squalls, carried away our Jib boom, and got a new one out. A constant swell from the SE. Winds harp most at SSW.
19. N. Latt. 2 41'; W. Long. 25 42'; Azi. 11 32*. Weather pleasant. This day took the wind at SSE, which no doubt is the commencement of the SE generall winds. The weather at this time is quite settled. Heretofore since leaving the NE. trades, it has been very gloomy and dark. Have noticed, since passing the Lattitude of 12 that the winds generally have been from South to SSW. at times squalls from West.
21. N. Latt. 2 38'; W. Long. 24 48'; Azi. 10* 30' W. A constant Current, setting to the Northward, in these Lati- tudes; (two sail in sight.)
22. N. Latt. 2 6' ; W. Long. 25 2* ; Azi. 10 13' W. Winds holds from SBE. to SSE. and fair pleasant weather, with a swell from the SE.
23. N. Latt. 1 41'; W. Long. 25 26'; Azi. 10 7' W. Winds and weather as before. Crew all well.
24. N. Latt. 1 15'; W. Long. 26 1'; Azi. 9 28' W. Winds at SSE. and quite moderate, weather pleasant.
25. W. Long. 26 57' O. C. In the course of this day cross'd the Equator. Wind at SEBS. and pleasant, serene, temperate weather. Have fish of different kinds round most of the time. Ship's crew are all in health.
54y 2 days from Boston, 25 days from Isle of Sal, (long passages). Keep all hands through the day in good weather, employed in the various departments of the ship it is best to keep them moving. They are allowed tea or coffe, each morn​
268 JOHN BOIT
ing and in general the ship's fare is good, but proper attention to airing their beds and cloathing and fumigating their berths is not paid.
27. S. Latt 2 5'; W. Long. 28 26'; Azi. 5 5(X W. Pleasant, agreeable weather. Wind from SE to ESE. Plenty of fish about us. Breezes moderate.
28. S. Latt. 3 34'; W. Long. 29 5'. Spoke a French India ship, from L'Orient bound to Pondicherry, reckond himself in Longitude 26 50' W. of Paris. Caught a large Albacore. 3 Wind ESE. Pleasant weather.
29. S. Latt. 5 12'; W. Long. 29 22'; Amp'd 4 59' W. Winds from ESE., squally weather.
30. S. Latt. 7 24'; W. Long. 30 16'; Azi, 4 51' W. Fresh gales. Caught an Albacore that weighed 130 Ib. Spoke a Portuguese ship from Lisbon bound to Rio Janeiro.
31. S. Latt. 9 31'; W. Long. 31 9'; Morning Azi. 4 8', Evening, Azi. 3 42'. A ship in sight. Pleasant weather with fresh trade winds, from ESE. to SE.
December 3. S. Latt. 13 30'; W. Long. 32 26'; Azi. 1 40' W.; O. <T. This day lost the SE. general winds, and immediately took it at NE. This Northly wind is no doubt the Monsoon prevailing at this season along the Brazill coast. Pleasant weather.
4. S. Latt. 14 39' ; W. Long. 32 40' ; Amp'd 53' W. Light breezes from NE. and very hot weather.
6. S. Latt. 17 23'; W. Long. 33 14'; azi. 1 28' W. Mod- erate breezes and pleasant. Winds from NE. to ENE.
7. S. Latt. 18 25' ; W. Long. 33 33' ; Amp'd 17' E. Do winds and weather, and swell from NE.
9. S. Latt. 21 52'; W. Long. 35 43'; Azi. 1 36' E. Moderate monsoon, and fair weather.
10. S. Latt. 23 55'; W. Long. 37 4'; Azi. 2 34' E. Lively breeze and pleasant temperate weather.
11. S. Latt. 25 0'; W. Long. 38 44' O <T. This day a heavy squall struck the ship, carried away the top gall't masts and yards, topsail yards, and fore, and mizen, topmasts; lost the top gall't sails and damaged the topsails.
3 A larg species of Tunny (Thynnus). W. C. F. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 269
13. S. Latt. 27 11'; W. Long. 39 18'; Azi. 5 15' E. In the course of this day got ship to rights again. Winds some- times hauls to the southward of East. Crew all in health.
14. S. Latt. 27 50'; W. Long. 40 5'; Amp'd 8 5' E. Wind at SE., moderate breeze, large swell from SW.
16. S. Latt. 30 26'; W. Long. 42 59*; Azi. and Amp'd 8 28' E. Wind at NE. and weather pleasant.
18. S. Latt. 32 52*; W. Long. 45 39'; Azi. 9 ff E. O . This day the NE. winds left us, and come at NW., fresh breeze and cloudy hazy weather.
21. S. Latt. 33 56'; W. Long. 48 34'; Azi. 11 32* E. Saw an Albatross, many other kinds flying about the ship. Large sea from SE.
22. S. Latt. 34 33'; W. Long. 48 15'; Azi. 11 38' E.
Saw a turtle. A high sea.
25. S. Latt. 36 57'; W. Long. 46 23'; Azi. 11 36' E. Cool weather. Since the NE. winds left they have generally prevailed from the Southward, and blow'd fresh.
26. S. Latt. 37 37'; W. Long. 47 20'. Sounded, no bottom, 150 fm. line out the water discolour'd.
27. S. Latt. 39 7' ; W. Long. 49 58'. Discolor'd water. Sounded no bottom at 150 fm.
29. S. Latt. 41 6'; W. Long. 53 28'; Azi. 17 25' E. Discolor'd water, no bottom at 120 fm. lowr'd a whale boat, and struck a black fish but lost him. The iron drew.
30. S. Latt. 41 53'; W. Long. 54 4'; Azi. 17 54' E. Cold weather. Winds from SW.
31. S. Latt. 42 46'; W. Long. 53 45'; Azi. 17 54' E. Fresh gales. Caught 16 Albatross's, with a hook and line from the stern, hook'd them in the bill. Ships crew are all in health.
So ends the year 1790.
MADE THE BRAZIL COAST OR PATIGONIA.
1791. January 6. S. Latt. 48 0'; W. Long. 54 O r ; Amp'd 21 2* E. Generally fresh gales, and winds mostly from the Southward. Have caught many albatrosses within ​these few days past, and seen plenty of Finback and right whales. Experience a current setting to the Southward.
7. S. Latt. 47 43' ; W. Long. 54 40' ; Amp'd 20 10' E. Fresh gales and pleasant cool weather.
10. S. Latt. 46 28' ; W. Long. 58 22'. Winds from the southward. Sounded, no ground, with 120 fm. line. Saw seals and whales. Water much discolour'd.
13. S. Latt. 45 2'; W. Long. 61 14'; O . A whale come so near as to strike the ship with his flukes and gave considerable of a blow. Got bottom, with 53 fm. line, fine black sand, with a few white specks.
14. S. Latt. 46 0'; W. Long. 62 0'. Wind from NW. Soundings 50 fm., fine black sand.
15. S. Latt. 45 31'; W. Long. 63 54'; Azi. 22 0' E. Winds from the Southward. Soundings 45 fm., soft mud with sand.
17. S. Latt. 46 48' ; W. Long. 66 58'. Fresh gales, under double reef'd topsails, with a high sea. At noon 35 fm. mud, wind NE. Saw the land to the Westward of Cape Blanco on the Coast of Patigonia, bearing from SSE. to SW. Very squally, haul'd our wind to the Eastward, find the ship embayed with the wind, on shore. Stood on within 2 miles of the beach, and cou'd not weather the land on our larboard tack; we were under the necessity of wearing ship to the Westward, at this time had 12 fm. grey sand. Our situation was very critical, as we cannot weather the land on either tack. Bent cables, and overhaul'd a range of each of them, pass'd several times over very shoal water but did not sound, for fear of intimidating the crew. Ship'd many seas, one of which stove the Binnacle and broke the Compasses. Wore ship several times as the wind favour'd. This land appear'd levell, without much wood and very high grass growing. Saw several smokes, but none of the Natives The shore was lined with white sand banks. Fortunately at midnight the wind moderated, and haul'd more of shore. Haul'd off into 20 fm. and stood along shore ; given the Cape a good berth.
18. S. Latt. 47 9'; W. Long. 66 38'; Azi. 21 36' E. Saw breakers a head, haul'd to the East'd. Cape Blanco bore ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 271
S. 65 W., 4 leagues. Sounded and had but 5 fm. water; deepened gradually, in 25 fm. pebble or gravell stones. This shoal was not laid down in the Drafts. I judge it to be very small.
AT THE FALKLAND ISLANDS.
19. S. Latt. 48 37'; W. Long. 66 8'. Winds from the SW. 56 fm. water, weather pleasant but cold. Many Albatross and large scholes of Whales.
22. S. Latt. 51 53'; W. Long. 64 O <f. Wind at NW. and squally. Made the Islands of Sebald-De Wert, 4 (or Jasons Islands) which lie off the NW. part of the Group call'd Falk- land. Vast many birds and seals round. Made sail to the South'd for States Bay, in New Island (one of the Falkland). At 6 A. M. saw Cape Percivall, SEE. 10 leagues. Fresh gales. At Meridian anchord, in New Island harbour. Mud and sand in 5 fm. Remain'd in this Harbour 11 days, during which time we give the ship a complete overhaul. We had the winds generally from the westward, and sometimes blew so strong that we drag'd with 5 anchors a head. A tent was erected on shore, for the Tradesmen. Found the watering place very handy, and the water excellent. The ship's crew on our arrival was all in health. Still no doubt, by being frequently indulg'd on shore, was of great service to them. The weather generally was very cool. During our stay at these Island [s] we shot upwards of 1000 Ducks and Geese, and 6 Hogs (which was evidently of the Spanish breed). The fowl was quite tame when we first arriv'd, but they soon was taught the doctrine of self-preservation. The Swine was very wild.
The face of the Country does not present a very delightful prospect, extensive heaths, mountains, and ponds of water are to be seen all over the Island. There is not a tree upon it, but the grass is 3 feet high in most places. The turf generally of the height of 6 foot, between which the Hogs and Penguins have their habitations. 5 The soil appear'd to me to be proper for the reception of such seeds as contribute towards the sub-
4Sebald d Weert, who circumnavigated the globe in 1598-99 in the ship hft Geloof, the sole surviving vessel of the fleet of five commanded by Jacques Mahu and Simon de Cordes. W. C. P.
5 Hoskins describes the mode of hunting these hogs. "The party being ashore. ​
272 JOHN BOIT
stenance of inhabitants. The wild Cellery, which is an ex- cellent antiscorbutic grows here in abundance.
I think these Islands are most proper to touch at, when bound round Cape Horn in preference to those in Straits La Maire 6 as the water is handy, and you may keep your People on Geese and Ducks while you remain.
IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN AFTER PASSING STATEN LAND AND CAPE HORN.
February 3. S. Latt. 51 47'; W. Long. 66 10'; Amp'd 25 7' E. Wind from the Southward and pleasant weather. Left the Falkland Isles last evening. This day spoke the Ship Bedford, Laben Coffin, Master, from Dunkirk (in France) bound to the Pacific Ocean, on a whaling voyage. 7 Took a departure from Cape Percivall at 6 P. M., it being the west- ward extreme of the Falkland, lying in Latt. 51 50' South, and Longitude 66 West of London. Light airs, and a swell from the Southward. Vast many marine birds flying round.
5. S. Latt. 53 54'; W. Long. 69 36'; Amp'd 25 1' E. Moderate breezes and pleasant. Saw Staten Land 8 bearing South 14 leagues distant, a Current setting to the Eastward.
6. S. Latt. 54 52' ; W. Long. 68 13'. Pleasant weather. St. Bartholomews on Staten Land, bore SWBW.
7. S. Latt. 55 24'; W. Long. 68 1'; Amp'd 25 16' E. Winds light and from the Westward, a Constant Current set- ting to the Eastward. Staten Land in sight, bearing WNW.
six would enter at one end of those tufts of grass arn\ed, walking: through them with a hue and cry; while two would walk on each side and two stationed at each end, ready to shoot the hog as soon as he should run out; by this means we were able to kill seven hogs and catch one oig alive."
6 Named after Jacob le Maire, who circumnavigated the world in 1615-1617. W. C. F.
ANNOTATIONS BY JUDGE F. W. HOWAV, except on entries made when the Columbia was south of the Straits of Juan de Fuca. For this part of her cruise annota- tions are by Mr. T. C. Elliott. The annotations by Worthington C. Ford, editor Proceedings Massachusetts National Society, retained, are indicated by Mr. Ford's initials, W. C. F.
7 Ingraham in the preceding January had met in much the same locality the French whaler Necker from Dunkirk, Captain John Haives. He explains: "This ship was sailed under French papers and colours, yet she was an America-built ship likewise the Captain all his officers & most of his men were Americans but the great encouragement given by the French government to Americans to settle in Franc* and fit out ships in the whaling service has induced many of our countrymen to emigrate yet I believe the major part of them have no idea of remaining among the French longer than they by their industry obtain a suffi- ciency to enable them to live comfortably in their own country."
8 I. de los Estados. W. C. F. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 273
20 leagues distant, very high and unequal land, with snow on the mountains.
12. S. Latt. 58 0'; W. Long. 76 15'; Azi. 24 36' E. Weather still hold* pleasant, but very cold. Winds generally from the Eastward.
17. S. Latt. 60 1'; W. Long. 82 8'; Azi. 24 30' E. Winds since the 12th has been much from the Westward and blowd excessive fiery, with high seas. This day's Latitude is the highest South during the passage.
23. S. Latt. 57 36'; W. Long. 84 42'. A Seal playing round the ship. (Light winds.)
27. S. Latt. 54 44'; W. Long. 86 24'; Azi. 23 52' E. Cape Horn is doubled. Winds light from the west'd with frequent calms.
March 13. S. Latt. 43 9'; W. Long. 88 55'; Amp'd 15 54' E. Since 27th Feb'y winds have prevailed generally from the Westward, with moderate breezes and pleasant weather.
19. S. Latt. 40 32'; W. Long. 88 20'; Azi. 14 28' E. Light winds and pleasant.
21. S. Latt. 37 43'; W. Long. 88 7'; Azi. 14 44' E. Very pleasant weather. Some of the Crew have the Scurvy in the Gums.
24. S. Latt. 36 56'; W. Long. 89 7'; Azi. 13 20' E. Light winds from NW. and frequent Calms.
26. S. Latt. 34 35'; W. Long. 88 41'; Azi. 12 51' E.; Amp'd 12 35' E.; 2d Azi. 12 47' E. Very pleasant, and temperate light airs.
31. S. Latt. 30 0' ; W. Long. 89 28'. Winds still from the westward with pleasant weather. Ship's Crew are in health. PASSAGE FROM CAPE HORN TO THE NW. COAST.
April 2. S. Latt. 27 17'; W. Long. 89 38'; Azi. 11 50' E. O <f. This day took the SE. trades, and experienced a swell from the Northward. Weather very pleasant.
4. S. Latt. 24 59'; W. Long. 93 0'; Azi. 11 34' E. Swell from the Southward.
6. S. Latt. 22 38'; W. Long. 96 12*; Azi. 10 14' E. Steady trades and fair. Blackfish and Porpoises.
8. S. Latt. 20 56'; W. Long. 98 19*; Azi. 10 26' E. Very pleasant, with smooth sea, winds to the North of East. ​
274 JOHN BOIT
9. S. Latt. 20 32'; W. Long. 98 55'; Azi. 9 59' E. Small winds.
10. S. Latt. 19 41'; W. Long. 99 56'; Azi. 9 50' E. Small winds.
11. S. Latt. 18 50'; W. Long. 100 29'; Amp'd 9 12 E. Small winds. Wind at ESE. Ship's Crew is many of them complaining.
12. S. Latt. 17 57'; W. Long. 101 24'; Azi. 9 16' E. A little Scurvy among the Crew.
15. S. Latt. 14 9'; W. Long. 105 28'; Azi. 9 0' E. Lively trade winds and pleasant serene breeze, with smooth water.
16. S. Latt. 12 36'; W. Long. 106 54'; Azi. 7 50' E. Do. Do.
22. S. Latt. 5 37'; W. Long. 113 39'; Azi. 6 44' E. Amp'd 6 32' E. Saw a Turtle.
23. S. Latt. 4 37'; W. Long. 114 39* O <C. Between the hours of 3 and 4 P. M. Departed this life our dear friend Nancy the Goat having been the Captain's companion on a former voyage round the Globe, but her spirited disposition for adventure led her to undertake a second voyage of Cir- cumnavigation ; But the various changes of Climate, and sudden transition from the Polar Colds, to the tropical heats of the Torrid zone, prov'd too much for a constitution naturally deli- cate. At 5 P. M. Committed her body to the deep. She was lamented by those who got a share of her Milk!! 9 Men of War Birds and Porpoises round.
26. S. Latt. 1 59'; W. Long. 117 23'; Azi. 6 0' E.; Amp'd 5 34' E. Pleasant weather. Saw a Turtle. Many Barracota and Dolphin round the ship.
28. S. Latt 50'; W. Long. 118 35'; Azi. and Amp'd 5 30' E. Caught a shark ; porpoises about the ship. Excessive warm.
29. S. Latt. 5'; W. Long. 119 13'; Azi. and Amp'd 5 18' E. O 1 Gentle trades at ESE and pleasant. Four
9 Hoskins recorfls this incident: "On the zsd having some rice up to air, our best she goat got at it, eat so much that it swel'd her belly and caused her death; this was the more grievous as it depriv'd us of the greatest delicacy we had in the Ship, her milk, which made our tea so much the more palatable." ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 275
seamen laid by, with the Scurvey, their mouths and legs are very bad. 10
30. Both by Meridian and Double Altitudes N. Latt. Sff ; W. Long. 119 59^; Azi. 5 15' E. Porpoises and Bonnetto round together with Tropic Birds and Boobies.
May 2. N. Latt. 3 26'; W. Long. 121 45'; Azi. 6 28' E. Sharks round, and Boobies. This day took the NE trade wind.
3. N. Latt. 4 38'; W. Long. 122 42*; Azi. 6 52* E. Squally weather porpoises round and many birds, on the wing.
8. N. Latt. 12 34' ; W. Long. 128 5' ; Fresh trade winds. Saw a turtle.
13. N. Latt. 20 7'; W. Long. 132 44'; Azi. 9 1' E. Fresh trade winds. Porpoises round. Weather pleasant.
15. N. Latt. 23 9*; W. Long. 132 33'; Azi. 9 47' E. Steady trade winds and very pleasant. Scurvy making progress.
AT ANCHOR IN COX'S HARBOUR OR CLIOQUOT ON THE NW. COAST.
17. N. Latt. 25 35'; W. Long. 133 43'; Azi. 9 45' E. Fresh trade winds and generally pleasant weather.
19. N. Latt. 27 38'; W. Long. 134 15'; Azi. 10 41'. Do. Do. 7 Men off duty with the scurvy, their Gums is quite putrid, and legs as big round as their bodies and quite numb, ( the worst of Complaints ! ! ) .
24. N. Latt. 34 9*; W. Long. 135 33'; Amp'd 12 20* E. This day lost the NE trades, and immediately took the wind from the westward.
31. N. Latt. 46 47'; W. Long. 125 50'; Azi. 17 20' E. Have had generally fresh breezes and cool weather since 24th with the winds generally from SW. Many birds round, among the rest some that look'd like Plovers. 6 People extreme bad, with the scurvy.
June 4. N. Latt. 49 10*; W. Long. 120 21'. This day made the land, on the NW. Coast of the American Conri-
10 Strangely enough, Hoskins makes no mention of the appearance of the curvy until aoth, May, when he records "the scurvy began to make its appear- ance on one of the people." Eight uays later he adds that six of our people (arc) confin'd with the scurvy." ​
276 JOHN BOIT
nent between Nootka 11 (or King George's Sound) and Cliquot 12 (or Coxes harbour). For these severall days past we had seen whales, drift wood, feathers, kelp, etc. All signs of its vicinity. Breakers pt. 13 bore NEBE 8 leagues, high land back, and snow perceivable on some of the mountains. Wind from Southward.
5. N. Latt. 49 5'; Correct W. Long. 125 26' O 1 This day anchor in Coxes harbour, 14 and found it very commodious. This Harbour is made remarkable by three remarkable round Hills. 15 abreast its entrance. Hannah, 16 Chief of the village Ahhousett, 17 came on board and appeared friendly. Above 300 of the Natives was alongside in the course of the day. Their canoes was made from the body of a tree, with stem, and stern, pieces, neatly fixed on. Their models was not unlike our Nan- tucket whale boats. The dress of these Indians was either the Skin of some Animal, or else a Blankett of their own manu- factory, made of some kind of Hair. 18 This garment was slung over the right shoulder. They all appear'd very friendly, brought us plenty of fish and greens. We tarry'd in this
11 This sound is situated in latitude 49 32' north, longitude 126 35' west. By general consent its discovery is attributed to Captain James Cook, who .spent some weeks there in March and April, 1778; though it is now known that the Spaniards had seen land near its entrance in August, 1774. Captain Cook first named it King George's Sound, but later changed it to Nootka, believing that to be the native name. Cook's Third Voyage, vol. 2, p. 288, 4to. ed. 1785. As to the probable origin of the name, see Walbran's Place Names, p. 359. During the early years of the maritime fur trade it was of considerable commercial importance; the seizure of Meares' vessels and the threatened war between Britain and Spain made it. in 1790, world-known.
12 Clayoquot Sound is about fifty miles to the southward of Nootka. It com- prises a number of inlets coverins; an area of about thirty miles in length and sixteen in breadth. The Port Cox of Meares was near the entrance to this sound, probably on the east side of Stubbs Island.
13 Now Estevan Point, the southern entrance of Hope Bay, as Cook called the water between it and Woody Point, now Cape Cook; Nootka Sound is one of its inlets. It was in this vicinity that the Spaniards, in the Santiago, under Juan Perez, anchored on 8th August, 1774.
14 Named by Meares in 1788 after John Henry Cox of Canton, who is frequently referred to in the acrimonious discussion that went on between Meares and Dixon after the appearance of the former's Voyages. See a sketch of it in Meares Voyages, 4to. ed. p. 202.
1 5 These are well known landmarks today. They are on Meares Island; th highest is called Lone Peak.
i6This was Chief Cleaskinah, who exchanged names with Captain Hanna of the Sea Otter in 1786. Meares met him in June, 1788, and describes him as "about forty and carried in his looks all the exterior marks of pleasantry and good humour." Meares Voyages 4to. ed. p. 136. Gray had met him in March, 1789. Haswell in his first Log says he "seemed a very intelligent old fellow." The cus- tom of exchanging names as a token of friendship was prevalent on this coast and is mentioned by Meares, Roquefeuil and many others.
i7Ahousat, an Indian village, now on Flores Island in Clayoquot Sound; but at this time the tribe were still living at their original home on Vargas Island in the same sound, from which they had an uninterrupted view of _the ocean. This old village site, now abandoned, was called Ahous, and thus gives its name to
1 8 The celebrated dogs' hair blankets of the Coast Salish. For a discussion of this subject, see Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. be, pp. 83-92. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 277
harbour till the 16th June, landed the sick, immediately on our arrival and pitch'd a tent for their reception, and although there was ten of them in the last stage of Scurvy, still they soon recover'd, upon smelling the turf, and eating greens of various kinds. We buried severall of our sick, up to the Hips, in the earth, and let them remain for hours in that situation. Found this method of great service. The principall village in this harbour is called Opitsatah, 19 and is governed by Wickananish, 20 a warlike Chief. He and his family visited us often. The Indians brought severall Deer, and plenty of Rock Cod, Salmon, and other fish. Wild parsley, and a root call'd Isau or Isop, 21 by the natives and much resembling a small onion, was brought us in abundance. We purchas'd many of the Sea Otter skins in exchange for Copper, 22 and blue Cloth. These Indians are of a large size, and somewhat corpulent. The Men wear no other covering, but the garment before men- tioned, and seem to have no sense of shame, as they appear in a state of Nature. The Women stand in great fear of the Males, 23 but appear to be naturally very modest. Their gar- ment is manufactured from the bark of a tree and is well executed, being so constructed as to cover them complete from the Neck to the Ancle. Both Male and Female wear Hats of a conicle form made out of strong reeds. 24 On them is painted, (in a rude manner) their mode of Whale fishery.
ip An Indian village on the southwest side of Meares Island in Clayoquot Sound. It is shown on Meares' map of Port Cox (410. ed. p. 202), being the northerly one of the two villages there shown. Today it is known officially as Opitsat; but is generally spoken of as Clayoquot Indian village. Father Brabant spells it Opissat.
20 This chief, whose name is spelled by the early voyagers in a variety of ways, figures in almost every account of these expeditions. He is the first chief that Haswell mentions, as having been met the Washington was cruising north- ward on ist September, 1788. He came on board, says Haswell, "completely while dressed in a genteel sute of Cloths which he said Captain Mears had given him."
21 Haswell calls this plant a leek.
22 On his first voyage Gray had found copper much in demand; he had evi- dently profited by his experience. Luckily tor him the variable taste of the natives, of which the traders all complain, had not changed in the interval. Copper was almost sterling amongst them; but they were whimsical as to the thickness of the sheets.
23 Exactlv the reverse conditions prevailed in Queen Charlotte Islands, as both Ingranam and Haswell inform us.
24 For a complete description of these cedar bark garments, see Cook's Third Voyage, 4to. ed. vol. a, p. 304. In the folio atlas accompanying this edition of Cook's Voyage will be found a picture showing these garments and also the hats. ​
278 JOHN BOIT
Attoo, 25 the Captain's servant (and a native of the Sandwich Isle) ran away, among the Indians. A chief coming on board, plac'd a guard over him, and sent his Canoe back to the village with the news. They soon return'd with Mr. Attoo, and ransom'd their Chief. 26
17. This day weigh'd the anchors and left Coxe's harbour. Fine weather, wind at SW. All hands once again on duty. Make the people use Spruce Tea, 27 boil'd from the Boughs we took on board, for that purpose and although not very palatable, I believe is an excellent Antiscorbutic. Bound along shore to the North and West. Saw woody point bearing ESE 3 or 4 leagues.
AT ANCHOR IN COLUMBIA'S COVE AND JUAN DE FUCA STRAITS
20. N. Latt. 50 6' ; W. Long. 128 12'. Moderate breezes. At 8 P. M. abreast Woody point, 28 lay'd off and on through the night. At daylight made sail, for Chickleset sound, 29 out Pinnace, and sent her ahead of the ship to sound. At 8 A. M. abreast the entrance of the sound. Hove to. At 10 the pinnace made the signall for an harbour. Bore away, wind at NW. At Meridian anchor'd in a small Cove, (which we named
25 This boy had been taken from the Sandwich Islands by Captain Gray on his first voyage, just as Cook took Qmai from Otaheite and Meares took Tianna from Attoo. E. G. Porter in his article on the Ship Columbia and the Discovery of the Oregon in the New England Magazine for June, 1892, says on page 478 that Attoo was a "young chief (sometimes called the crown-prince)." In any event he was flogged for this attempted desertion. See further, as regards him, the entries under dates i8th January, 1792, and 2nd November, 1792.
26 In Hoskins' Narrative will be found the details of this incident, including the deception by which the Chief, Tootiscoosettle, the eldest brother of Wickanan- ish, was induced to come on board, and thereafter held until Attoo was brought back. Some of the subsequent difficulties may possibly be connected with this event.
27 This was a recognized anti-scorbutic. This decoction must have been very nasty; it was originally prepared, "brewed," some of the voyagers call it, from the trees themselves. For reference to it, see Meares' Voyages, Introduction, 4to. ed. p. xx ; Cook's Third Voyage, 4to. ed., vol. 2, p. 273; vol. 3, p. 331; Dixon's Voyage, p. 151; Portlock's Voyage, pp. 215, 217, 231, etc., and many other authorities.
28 Now Cape Cook, the most westerly point of Vancouver Island, and the northern entrance to Hope Bay. It was so named by Captain Cook in 1778, but was changed, in honour of the great navigator, to Cape Cook by Captain George H. Richards, H. M. surveying vessel Plumper, in 1860. Walbran's Place
20' This sound was well known, especially to the American traders. It is
. " * . * *rr . r _ _1 _ . 3 _ f ___!_ 1_ *ir__J__ Tl *
surroundings fits this sound exactly; and finally in the map in the Report of the Royal Commission on Indian Affairs, 1916, vol. 4, P- 850, Nesparte Inlet is marked "Chickleset" ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 279
Columbias). 30 In this situation we was completely land lock'd. Vast many natives alongside. They appear'd much the same as those at Coxs harbour and talk'd their language. We laid in this harbour till the 26th, during which time got many Sea Otter and land furs, from the Natives, in exchange for Copper, Iron and Cloth, (with Beads, fish Hooks and such small stuff kept the Ship supplied with various kinds of fish and greens, with a few deer). These Natives was generally arm'd with Bows, arrows, and spears. Like those at Clioquot they would pilfer whenever an opportunity offer'd. Their Women were more Chaste than those we had lately left. But still they were not all Dianas. During our tarry here I visited one of the villages in the sound, found the Natives busily employ 'd build- ing Canoes, and packing provisions against the ensuing Winter. They treated me quite friendly. They dry their fish in the Sun, and then pack it in neat wooden boxes. 31 W Necessity is the mother of invention.
26. This day left Columbia's Cove, and stood along shore towards the Straits of Juan De Fuca. Crew all well. Steering to the South and East'd. This is an Iron bound Coast, with high land back.
27. This day pass'd Clioquot, with a fine breeze from WNW and pleasant.
28. N. Lart. 48 42'; W. Long. 124 0'. Enter'd the Straits of Juan De Fuca and hove to abreast the Village of Nittenatt, 32 found strong tides. Vast many Natives off, with Sea Otter and other Furs, which we purchas'd with the same articles as before. T was evident that these Natives had been visited by that scourge of mankind the Smallpox. 33 The
30 It would appear that this cove is that now known as Quln-e-ex, on Nesparte Inlet. It is on the southeast side of Brooks Peninsula, a few miles from Cape Cook. The Indian village, Opswis, mentioned by Hoskins, is opposite this cove and is now called "Opsowis." See further hereon the above m.ip and Report, pp. 853-891.
31 For a description of these boxes, see Cook's Third Voyage, vol. 2, p. 316. A picture of one will be seen in the view of the interior of a house .v Nootka Sound, contained in the accompanying atlas.
32 Nitinat. "Nittenat," says Hoskins, "lies in the latitude of 48 4' north, longitude 124 06' west; it has no harbor or any other shelter before it; and is only rendered remarkable by a large cataract or waterfall a few miles to the northward of it." Probably this is Cjo-oose, the head village of the tribe, which lies about a mile eastward from the discharge of Nitinat Lake.
33 Portlock in hit Voyage, p. 271, heard of great ravages of this disease amongst the Tlingit, and believed that it was introduced by the Spaniards in ijJi. and worked its way down the coast. ​
280 JOHN BOIT
Spaniards, as the natives say, brought it among them. These Indians appear'd friendly.
N. Latt. 48 23' ; W. Long. 124 0' O * 1 Kept beating about the entrance of De Fuca Straits till 3d July, on SE. parts (off a small Isle) call'd Tatooch, 34 we collected many Otters. These natives gave the preference to Copper. Fine Halibut and Salmon was procured in abundance. Nails, Beads, etc. serv'd for this traffic. This Chief at Tatooch's Isle offer'd to sell us some young Children they had taken in war. 35 .
July 3. N. Latt. 49 1' ; W. Long. 126 20'. Left the Straits. At 6 P. M. Cape Flattery 36 (so named by Capt. Cook) bore SEBE 8 leagues. Standing along shore to the Westward, wind from the East'd.
4. Took the wind from the Westward, employ'd beating to windward the land about 12 leagues. Many Whales.
AT ANCHOR IN BARRELL'S SOUND, IN QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLES
8. N. Latt. 52 10'; W. Long 131 12'. This day anchor'd in Barrells sound 37 on the SE. part of the Queen Charlotte Isles, 20 fathom, rocky bottom. Sent the Pinnace, with" an officer, to seek better anchorage, which was soon found. Got under way and stood up sound, and anchor'd in 15 fathom muddy bottom. A Chief by name Coyac, 38 came along side, with plenty of other Indians. The Natives here are much stouter than any we had before seen, and appear to be very savage. The Men go quite naked, except a skin over the
34 Tatoosh Island, off Cape Flattery; named in .17.88 by Meares, after Tatooch, by the Spaniards called Tetaous, the Chief of the vicinity. See also note 186 post.
35 In the same locality in March, 1789, Haswell records that the natives "offered their own manufactured blankets which weir realy curious and children for sale." Captain Peron alleges in his Memoires that, in 1796, "Apres une assez longue negociation, Makouina (Maquinna) nous le (i e. a child of six years of age) vendit, moyennant trois brasses de drap bleu." See vol. 2, p. 2. Other instances are recorded.
36 Named by Captain Cook on 22nd March, 1778, because its appearance "flattered us with the hopes of finding an harbour." See vol. 2, p. 263.
37 Haswell, writing under date nth June, 1789, says: "this sound was hon- oured with the name of Barrel Sound in honour of our owner." Joseph Barrel! was really the principal of the six co-owners of the Columbia and the Washington. It is now called Houston Stewart Channel; it separates Moresby Island from Prevost Island. Dixon, who was on the coast in command of the Queen Char- lotte in 1787, named it Ibbertson's Sound.
38 Haswell calls him Coya ; Hoskins calls him Coyah. The latter says that Coyah, whom Gray had met in 1789, did not com* near the ship until a little after sunset, when most of the natives had left; that he told them Captain Barnard (Barnett) had got all their skins and asked Gray to wait for a few day for a fresh supply. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 281
shoulder. The Women are entirely cover'd, with Garments of their own manufactory, from the bark of tree. 39 They appear to carry full sway over the men 40 and have an incision cut through the under lip, which they spread out with a piece of wood, about the size and shape of a goose egg ( some much larger). It's considered as an ornament, but in my opinion looks very gastly. Some of them booms out two inches from the chin. 41 The women appear very fond of their offspring, and the Men of both. We remain'd in this sound till the 17th. During which time we purchas'd a good lot of Sea Otter and other furs chiefly for Iron and Cloth. Copper was not in demand. The boats were sent frequently after wood and water, but were always well arm'd. The Natives supplied us with plenty of Halibut and Rock Cod, for which we paid them in Nails. Wild fowl was plenty in this Sound, of which we caught and kill'd many. I landed at one of their villages, found the Indians comfortably lodg'd, and kept large fires, although the weather was temperate. When I went into one of their houses they was eating roast muscles and singing a warlike Song. They appear'd fond of our visit and never offer'd to molest any thing in the boat. Their canoes are not made near so neat as those we had seen before, but I think was more commodious. The females was not very chaste, but their lip pieces was enough to disgust any civilized being. However some of the Crew was quite partial.
39 The cedar the blessed tree of the Northwest Coast.
40 Both Hoskins Narrative and Ingraham's Journal are to the same effect and both give examples of this sway. See also Vancouver's Voyage, 4to. ed., vol. 2, p. 409, and Portlock's Voyage, p. 290.
41 This is the labret, or, as it is called amongst the Haida, the natives of Queen Charlotte Islands, the staie, which has excited the curiosfty and derision of all the visitors to those islands from the time of Perez downward. Dixon gives a description and a picture of one, which was three and seven-eighths inches long and two and five-eighths inches in the widest part: it was inlaid with a small pearly shell, round which was a rim of copper. See Dixon's Voyage, p. 208. The custom was not confined to the Haida; it extended from Yukatat Hay to the boundaries of the Kwakiutl. Sir George Simpson in his Narrative of his Journey round the World, vol. I, p. 204. records having met instances of its use at Fort McLoughlin, amongst the Bella Bella Indians. Father Crespi, who accompanied Juan Perez in 1774. gives the first account of this strange adornment. "They (the women) wear pendant from the lower lip, which is pierced, a disk painted in colors, which appeared to be of wood, slight and curved, which makes them seem very ugly, ana, at a little distance they appear as if the tongue was hanging out of the mouth. Easily, and with only a movement of the lip, they raise it so that it covers the mouth and part of the nose. Those of our people who saw them from a short distance said that a hole was pierced in the lower lip and the disk hung therefrom. We do no know the object of this; whether it be done to make themselves ugly, as some think, or for the purpose of ornament." Publications of the Histoncal Society of Southern California, vol. a, p. 19*. ​
282 JOHN BOIT
IN THE STRAITS OF ADMIRAL DEFONT 42
17. Weigh 'd and left Barrells sound, bound to the Straits of Admiral De Font, 43 which is formed by the Charlotte Isles and the Main.
18. N. Latt. 51 : 34'. Wind from Westward and pleasant, beating to and fro, off the South pt. of Charlotte Isles, en- deavouring to get into the Straits.
'23. N. Latt. 52 26'; W. Long. 131 30'; Azi. 20 22' E. Spoke the Brig Hope, 44 Joseph Ingrahim master from Boston, on the same business with ourselves. Soon parted.
24. N. Latt. 53 6'. A small Isle, in the Straits bore North at Meridian, which we named Hatches. 45 Weather is gen- erally clear, so that the Isles and Main are distinctly seen together. Found ground at 120 fm. The Natives wou'd often come along side from the Main, or Isles, as we border'd on either shore, and brought furs and plenty of Halibut, which you cou'd buy for a board Nail apiece.
28. N. Latt. 53 14'; W. Long. 132 0'; Azi. 21 35' E. Ship over towards the Main. Send an officer 46 in the pinnace
42 In terms of modern geography the Columbia now leaves Houston Stewart Channel, sails west into the Pacific Ocean, rounds Cape St. James, the southern point of Queen Charlotte Islands, proceeds up Hecate Strait, which lies between these islands and the mainland of British Columbia, keeping generally to the mainland side, and turning to the westward follows along the northern shores of Dixon Entrance, the strait separating Queen Charlotte Islands from Alaska.
43 The story of this fictitious voyage of Admiral Bartholomew De Fonte will be found in Bancroft's History of the Northwest Coast, vol. I, pp. 115-118. For a full discussion, see Navarrete's Viajes y Descubrimientos Apocrifos, pp. 134-16:. Haswell, Hoskins, Ingraham and Boit all believed in the existence of his fabled strait, which by an involved series of lakes and rivers conected with the Atlantic Ocean. The stretch of water called De Font's Strait by Boit is Hecate Strait. See also hereon, Vancouver's discussion of the voyage in Vancouver's Voyage, vol. 6, pp. 8 vo. ed. 1801.
44 The Hope was a brig which left Boston a few days before the departure of the Columbia in 1790, under the command of Joseph Ingraham, who had been first officer on the Columbia on her first voyage. Ingraham left an account of both his voyages; but that of the first voyage has disappeared; and the second one is not complete, the entries ending abruptly after the Hope left the coast in the fall of 1792. His charts today are all the information that exists relative to some parts of the west coast of Queen Charlotte Islands. The account of this meeting of the two Boston vessels is also given by Hoskins, who was on the Columbia, and by Ingraham. Hoskins says: "During the night we had light airs and pleasant weather heard the cutting of wood at a distance which sounded as if on a vessel's deck when the lanhqrns were ordered to be hoisted at four the next morning (the 236) the south extreme of the land bore south by east six leagues distance at half past five saw a sail to the northward which by her signals we soon discovered to be the Hope of Boston Joseph Ingraham commander when at a short distance he welcomed us with three cheers which was immediatejy returned the Hope hove to under our lee when the jolly boat was sent for Captain Ingraham who came on board." Ingraham's version is not reproduced, as Pro- fessor E. S. Meany has appended it in a note to this journal, which will be found in the Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. xii, p. 12.
45 Named after Charles Hatch, one of the owners of the Columbia. It is now called Bonilla Island in Hecate Strait, four miles from Banks Island. It is two miles long and one mile broad; rises to a height of 550 feet; and is an excellent landmark.
46 Robert Haswell, the Chief Officer of the ship. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 283
in search of anchorage. Found the land hereabouts low and barren near the shore, but rises back into high mountains. Find excessive strong currents in these Straits. The Natives on the Main speak a language different 47 from those on the Islands. Boat returned without success.
30. N. Latt. 52' 47'; W. Long. 131 O <T. Fresh gales and stormy weather. At Meridian Charlotte Isles extended from SBW to WBN 8 or 10 leagues. Some Canoes full of Indians boarded us from the Isles. They inform'd us that severall English vessels 48 had visited not long since. We purchased a good lot of furs, chiefly for Iron and Cloth.
31. Stood towards the Islands, and anchored in 24 fm. with a Kedge. Light wind from NW. A Chief (by name Cumswah) 49 brought us several fine Sea Otter skins.
August I. Wind from SE. Standing along the Queen Charlotte Isles, through De Font straits, about 3 or 4 leagues from land, soundings generally from 15 to 25 fm. mud. The main land in sight to the North and West'd at a great dis- tance. 50
2. Fresh gales and very thick weather. Narrowly escaped running on a reef of rocks. Quite foggy and see the land but seldom, beating to and fro. Wind from the Eastward.
3. N. Latt. 54 43'; W. Long. 132 23'. Heavy gales from SE. and thick weather, found the Ship embay 'd, 51 employ'd making short hanks. At length we being too nigh the shore for to keep off, through the night, we was alarm'd with all the horrors of a lee shore. A small opening appearing in the land to leeward, hove out the pinnace and sent an officer to examine for anchorage. At 6 in the evening she made a signal for a
47 The observations of the American officers in regard to language are always correct. The natives of Queen Charlotte Islands are of the Haida race; while on the mainland opposite they are Tsimshean.
48 So far as can be discovered there were but two English vessels in this vicinity in 1791. the Grace, Captain William Douglas, and the Gustovus. Captain Thomas Barnett.
49 The recognized form of the name is Cumshewa. He was one of the principal men of these islands. His head village was on the northern side of Cumshewa Inlet, on the east coast. The place of this anchorage cannot be iden- tified, but it was probably near Skedans on the south side of Cumshewa Inlet or near Cumshewa's village on the north side.
50 Hecate Strait in this locality is about forty miles wide; the land to th northward would be, perhips, seventy miles distant, being that lying between Prince of Wales Island and the mainland in Southern Alaska.
51 The Columbia, driven by gale and current, and in the fog, had entered Clarence Strait. See hereon more fully the "Supplementary Note on the Identi- fication of Port Tempest and Massacre Cove," found at the close of the Journal, pages 350-'​
284 JOHN BOIT
Harbour. Bore away and anchored under a point of land, in 17 fm. sandy bottom, let go three anchors, it being a wild road stead. We remain'd in this station, which we call'd Port Tempest 52 till the 8th and only four Indians made their ap- pearance, and I believe there was no villages 53 in the vicinity. Made severall excursions, with boats, and procur'd many Sal- mon and plenty of Berries. In one of these excursions I discover'd a small rivulet, 54 not deep enough to admit the boat. In it we caught upwards of 100 fine salmon, chiefly with the boat hook and grainz, and shot a deer upon the banks. Crew all in health.
8. Got under way and left Port Tempest (situated on the main land of America), 55 stood over for land in sight to the North'd and westward, and as we approach'd it severall Canoes came off, with furs and halibut.
10. N. Latt. 55 0'; W. Long. 133 0'. Light winds and pleasant, standing to the NW. and 6 P. M. came to with the Kedge 28 fm. Port Tempest bearing NEBN. 12 leagues. The Natives brought us plenty of fine Otter furs. Their Canoes are the same as at Charlotte Isles, some of them capable of carry- ing 30 men. They go well arm'd, with bows, arrows and spears, and appear to be a savage race. I went in the Cutter well arm'd to a small cove, not far distant from the Ship, and soon caught 9 large Halibut. The Ship was concealed by a point of land, making out from the NE. part of the Cove.
12. Still laying at anchor in same situation as on the 10th, the nearest land not above ^ mile distant, and the point of the Cove I was fishing in on 10 inst. about % mile. Mr. Caswell this morning took a Boatswain Mate and one Seaman with
52 This is identified as being near Point Higgins, at the western entrance of Revillagigedo Channel (otherwise Tongass Narrows), which separates Revillagi- gedo Island from the Gravina Group of Islands. The reasons which support this suggested identification are so lengthy that it has been thought better to include them in a "Supplementary Note on the Identification of Port Tempest and Massa- cre Cove," found at the close of the Journal, pages 350-1.
53 Hoskins, however, mentions two, Sushin and Cahta. Some inhabitants of the former were actually on board. The ship was striving to reach Sushin when she anchored near Massacre Cove. The villages were of the Kaigani Haida; the journalist may be referring to villages of the Tlingit; if so, the nearest, according to Vancouver, who was there in August, 1793, was at Point Whaley, perhaps fifty miles distant.
54 The unnamed creek which empties into Ward Cove in Revillagigedo Channel. See supplementary note hereto.
55 Until Vancouver circumnavigated Revillagigedo Island in August, 1793, it was thought to be part of the mainland. Port Tempest was near Point Higgins, the westerly point of that island. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 285
him in the Jolly Boat, by the permission of Capt. Gray, and went to the Cove a fishing. A breeze springing up soon after, and wishing to leave this place, a six pounder was fird, a signal for the boat to return. She not appearing, soon after two more Cannon was fir'd. Got the Ship under way and stood off and on, and sent the pinnace under charge of the 4th officer 56 in search of the small boat. Soon after we see the Pinnace returning with the Jolly Boat in tow, without any person in her and soon discover'd they had the Boats Colours hoisted half mast. With this melancholy token they approach'd the Ship, when we soon discover'd our worthy friend, and brother officer, Mr. Joshua Caswell (2d) lay dead in the bottom of the boat, strip'd perfectly naked and stab'd in upwards of twenty places. They saw nothing of John Folger (the boat- swains mate) but Joseph Barnes (the Sailor) lay dead on the beach, and quite naked. Fearing the Natives lay in ambush, they did not land to take of the Corps. 57 It is probable they were beset upon by a great superiority of natives, prompted by a desire to possess their cloaths and arms. As soon as the boats return'd made sail for Port Tempest, and anchor'd in the evening, at our former station. In Mr. Caswell I lost a firm and steady friend. He was a man of mild and gentle temper, a complete Seaman, and in short was possest of every qualification that bespoke the gentleman. 58 Observ'd that the day previous to this disastrous affair few Indians had visited the Ship.
NW. END OF CHARLOTTE ISLE 59 13. N. Latt. 54 43'; W. Long. 132 23'. 60 Calm, and tern-
56 Mr. Waters, as appears by the entry of 24th March, 1792, post.
57 The account in Iloskins adds nothing to these facts; that in Ingraham is very brief and, necessarily, hearsay.
58 Hoskins adds the following facts in reference to Mr. Caswell. He was about twenty-six years of age; was born in Maiden, four miles from Boston; had followed the sea from boyhood; served in the War of Independence; was taken prisoner early in that war; after peace was declared re-entered the merchant service and rose to the rank of captain; but, being interested in discovery, was content to take the position of second mate on this expedition. "He was, adds Hoskins, "a reputable good seaman of a most happy serene placid disposition in most cases too passive he was loved and beloved by all who knew him he was an honest man which Pope says 'is the noblest work of God'."
59 After obtaining the body of Mr. Caswell the Columbia returns to the western end of Revilfagigedo Channel, sails thence to the north shore of Queen Charlotte Islands and enters Masset Harbour.
60 This latitude and longitude have no relation cither to Port Tempest or Massacre Cove; they are given by Haswell as the position of Murderers Cape, which lay at the western entrance of Brown's Sound, in which Port Tempest was situated. That is Cape Chacon of today. Its latitude is the well known $4* 40*. ​
286 JOHN BOIT
perate weather. At 8 in the morning the 4th Officer was dispatch'd with a party well arm'd in the Pinnace, for to dig a grave for our worthy friend. At 9 the pinnace return'd At 10 left the Ship with three boats, under charge of Mr. Hazwell, 1st Officer, with the corps, the Ship firing minute guns. At 11 Capt. Gray landed in a small boat, and after performing divine service, we inter' d the remains of our de- parted, and much beloved, friend, with all the solemnity we was capable of.
The place was gloomy, and nothing was to be heard but the bustling of an aged oak, whose lofty branches hung wavering o'er the grave, together with the meandering brook, the Cries of the Eagle, and the weeping of his friends added solemnity to the scene. So ends. 61
15. Weighed, and left Port Tempest, wind at NW. At sunset it bore NEW. 6 leagues, and (Massacre Cove) 62 West 5 Miles. Saw none of the Natives. No doubt the Rascles wou'd have destroy'd the Jolly boat after they had massacred our unfortunate countrymen, had not the Ship's guns alarm'd them. Standing to the South and E.
16. This day spoke the Brig Hancock 63 of Boston, Samuel Crowell, Master. They was on the same business as ourselves, and had been pretty successful. 64 Capt. Crowell inform'd that
61 When Haswell returned to the spot in the Adventure on 2nd June, 1792, he found that "the natives had dug the corpse of Mr. Caswell up, and by the appearance it must have been done soon after burial."
62 This, it is suggested, was situate on the eastern side of Prince of Wales Island between Cholmondeley Sound and Skowl Bay. No data are given in any of the narratives whereby to distinguish it from any of the other coves in the vicinity. Perhaps Indian tradition may later be brought forward to identify the exact spot. See the supplementary note hereto for further discussion of this subj ect.
63 This vessel had evidently been trading for a month in the vicinity, for Ingraham had learned of her presence on i6th July, while he was in Parry Passage (Cox Strait). On that date he says, "Cow inform'd us he saw a vessel! to the Eastward with 2 masts on which I sent a boat with an Officer accom- panied by Cow to view her after a short absence the boat return'd and inform'd u was a Brig standing to the Eastward this vessel I afterwards found was the Hancock Cap Croel from Boston N A." Hoskins states that she had arrived on 1 4th July, having left Boston in the beginning of November, 1790. She had stopped tor supplies at St. Salvador, a Portuguese settlement on the coast of Brazil, and had also stayed some time at Staten Island, killing seals and obtaining wood and water. She had called at Mas afuera for water and at Owhyhee for fresh provisions. The natives there had determined to capture her, but Tianna (weli known to all readers of Meares) had informed the captain of their intention and had urged him to sail at once, as he haJ promised his people that if the brig remained there on the following day they were at liberty to carry the
64 The Hancock had obtained between five hundred and six hundred sea otter skins- the Columbia had about as many. See Washington Historical Quarterly, vol xi p 17. Haswell says she had seven hundred sea otter skins. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 287
his Longboat was cruizing among the Charlotte Isles, under charge of his 2nd Officer. 65 The Brig kept us company.
18. Pleasant weather. Came to anchor, in a River, which Capt. Crowell had named Hancocks, 66 situated on the NW part of the Queen Charlotte Isles, in company with the Brig, 6 fm. water, mud. The Brig's Longboat we found at this place, vast many of the Natives along side the Ship, and a few furs was purchased. Capt. Crowell had, upon some trifling offence, fir'd upon these Indians, by which a number of them fell, (such wanton cruelty throws him upon a levell with the savage), and perhaps this same fray was the means of our losing our worthy 2nd Officer as the places are not 20 leagues distant and mayhap they reck'd their Vengeance 67 upon us, thinking us all of one tribe. If it was so, bad luck to CrowelL Amen.
19. N. Latt. 54 12'; W. Long. 132 25'. .Fine weather. The Hancock saild on a Cruize. 68 The land about this River, is the best without exception I've yet seen, on the NW. Coast, and a place well calculated for a Factory for to reap the ad- vantages of the fur trade. The Natives, I dare say, have always plenty of Otters, and there is fish in abundance. Hove up, 69 and came to sail towards evening and stood to sea, light winds and very strong tides. At sunsett Murderers Cape bore NNW. at a great distance.
20. N. Latt. 53 49^; W. Long. 133 24'. Soundings from 7 to 12 fm., shoal water about these parts of Charlotte Isles. Standing to the Southward through Defont straits, running
65 The frame of the longboat had been brought out in the brig from Boston and put together somewhere on the coast of Queen Charlotte Islands. It had been rigged as a sloop and placed in charge of Mr. Adamson, formerly in Meares* employment on the Iphigenia.
66 This so-called river is now Masset Inlet. In Haswell's second Log will be found a sketch of it, on which the river-like portion is marked Mahsheet. lie gives its position as 54 5' north latitude and 132 13' west longitude. This is nearly correct.
67 The greater probability is that, as in the cases of Quadra, Barkley, and the Atahualpa, it arose from mere cupidity; the implements, clothing and the nails in the boat were sufficient temptation.
68 Before doing so Captain Crowell left with the natives at Tadents in Parry Passage (Cox Strait) a man named Jones, who was to collect furs against his return; but he soon tired of the life there, went to Kaigani, and shipped away at the first opportunity. This expedient was frequently tried by the traders; the result was always the same.
69 The reason for the Columbia t sudden departure was, according to Hos- kins, to forestall tb Hancock in th trade on the eastern side of Queen Charlotte Islands. ​
288 JOHN BOIT
along the Isles in from 15 to 30 fm. according to distance off shore, these Charlotte Isles are from the Latt. 51 55' to 54 24' N. and from Longitude 131 0' to 133 W.
22. N. Latt. 53 2'; W. Long. 131 31'; Amp'd 20 ? E. O tf. Many of Indians of this day from Cumswah village, in Charlcot Isles, brought a few skins, but I think they are pretty well drain'd. 70 Came to, with the Kedge in 20 fm. about 2 miles from shore. Soon after see a Boat rowing towards us, and heard a Cannon fir'd in the sound. At 3 P. M. Mr. Cruft, 71 1st Officer of the American Brig Hope (which we had spoke with before) came along side, with Capt. Ingrahim's compli- ments, and of fer'd to be the bearer of Letters, as he was shortly bound for Canton. 72 We readily embraced the opportunity. At dark Mr. Cruft left us. Uip Kedge and bore away to the southward and East'd.
23. N. Latt. 52 37' ; W. Long. 130 22'. The SE. part of Charlotte Isles bore SE^E. 12 leagues, light winds and vari- able. A Canoe boarded us, at this great distance, and brought many prime furs.
28. N. Latt. 49 20' ; W. Long. 127 16'. At Noon this day, Nootka (or King Georges sound) bore ENE. 10 leagues.. Since the 23d we have never lost sight of the Continent. 'T is very high land. Saw whales.
29. N. Latt. 49 5' ; W. Long. 126 0'. At Noon the en- trance of Clioquot (or Coxes harbour) bore NE 4 leagues. Standing in for the harbour, and towards evening anchor'd in our former station, vast many of the Natives along side, and seem'd glad to see us again. Found riding here the Brig Lady
70 Ingraham in the Hope had been lying at anchor, trading continuously with these natives, for over a fortnight.
71 This officer died shortly afterwards while the Hope was en route to the Sandwich Islands. Ingraham gives his name as Crafts. Proper names apoear to have been spelled, as Sam Weller said, according to the taste and fancy of the speller; this renders identification difficult in many cases. Ingraham was returning good for evil; the owners of the Columbia, he tells us, being "filled with envy and malice against all who went to share with them this valuable trade gave orders that no Letters should be borne out in their ship to any one on board the Hope." Thus, though Ingraham got his letters through the instrumentality of Haswell, who smuggled them through, poor Crafts' letters were refused and came out on the Hancock, with the result that he never received them, having died before the two vessels met at the Sandwich Islands.
72 Ingraham's voyage had been remarkably successful, so far as obtaining furs was concerned. This result was obtained partly through his invention of the iron collars and partly through his policy of remaining in one place so long as furs continued to be offered for barter, instead of flitting from place to place as the other vessels did. See a resume' on his voyage in Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. xi, pp. 3-28. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 289
Washington, 73 of Boston, John Kendrick, master. He had made up his Voyage and was bound for Canton. He appear'd happy in meeting with his old friends.
N. Latt. 49 9*; W. Long. 125 O * . Captain Ken- drick inform'd us that he had had a skirmish, with the Natives at Barretts sound in Queen Charlotte Isles, and was oblig'd to kill upwards of 50 of them before they wou'd desist from the attack. It appear'd to me, from what I cou'd collect that the Indians was the aggressors. 74 This Brig Lady Washington was a Sloop when she left Boston, but Capt. Kendrick had alterd her rig in Canton the year before. I was sorry to find that Kendrick had made no remittances, to the owners, since he had parted with the Columbia the first voyage, although since that period he had made two successful trips 75 from this Coast to Canton. As the Vessells still belong'd to the same owners he was under some mistrust that Capt. Gray was empower'd to seize the Brig, 76 and kept himself always ready against attack. 77 We tarried in this harbour till the 8th Sept.,
73 The consort of the Columbia on the voyage 1787-1790. She was at anchor in Larks Bay when on iath February, 1790. the Columbia passed down the Tigris on her return to Boston. In the interval the latter had made the voyage to New England and back, whilst the former had occupied the same time in dis- posing of her furs, altering her rig from a sloop to a brig, or more likely a brigantine, and returning to the coast. The Washington, as she is usually called, had reached Queen Charlotte Islands on i^th June from China, via Japan; the Columbia had arrived at Clayoquot Sound eight days before, from Boston.
74 Ingraham gives the outlines of the story; but Hoskins, Captain Kendrick's friend, enters into all the details. Summarized the story is that in the fall of 1789, while at Houston Stewart Channel, some clothing was stolen from the Washington. Kendrick seized the two chiefs and, fastening them to a cannon, threatened to kill them if the stolen articles were not forthcoming. The greater part were returned: the remainder he made them pay for in skins, and finally he forced the natives as a condition of releasing the Chiefs to bring all their furs, which he took and paid for at the current rate. He then gave the Chiefs their liberty and sailed away. He did not return until June, 1791, but soon after his arrival, and after trading had gone on as usual, the natives gathered on the ship in large numbers, took possession of the arm chest, and drove the crew below. Kendrick remained on deck, Coyah, one of the Chiefs, taunting him and daring him to tie him to the cannon again. The natives, all armed, only waited the signal to begin a massacre. Coyah and Kendrick got into a scuffle, and at this time the crew returned with arms and, led by Kendrick, who had freed himself from his assailant, cleared the vessel's deck. The Indians retreated precipitately on seeing the firearms; and even the exhortations of a perfect Amazon could not re-form them for attack. The small arms and the cannon were discharged at the fleeing Indians and when they were out of range they were pursued by the armed boats.
75 The journalist is in error here. Kendrick in the Washington did not see the Northwest coast from his departure in the fall of 1789 until i.ith June, 1791.
76 Hoskins, in a letter to Joseph Barrel), dated August 21, 1793, says: Capt. Kendrick when I saw him the last season (referring to the occasion now in nota- tion) offer'd to give up to me (if I would pay his men's wages & a debt he had contracted in Macao of about 4000 dollars) his vessel and cargo which was a thousand sea otter skins. I tola him I had no authority to accept his offer or to demand any payment from him nor did I think any person in the ship hid."
77 This is an exaggeration; both Hoskins' Narrative and Haswell's Log show that the two ship* were on the best of terms, mutual visits were exchanged, and the fullest confidence prevailed. ​
290 JOHN BOIT
during which time collected many Sea Otter and other furs, and fish in abundance. These Natives miss'd Mr. Caswell, and it was thought proper to inform them that he had died a natural death.
September 8. Weighed and beat out of the harbour, wind at SW. At Noon Clioquot bore NW. 6 leagues standing toward Juan De Fuca straits.
IN THE STRAITS OF JUAN DE FUCA
11. N. Latt. 48 15'; W. Long. 124 30'. This day abreast Cape Flattery, on the SE. part of De Fuca entrance, vast many of the Natives along. Purchas'd many Otters. These Indians told us, there was five sail of Spaniards up the straits. 78 At Midnight saw Tatoosh Isle, bearing NNE. 3 miles. Thought ourselves further off shore. Almost calm, and an excessive strong tide sweeping us between some ledges and the Isle. At daylight thick fog, saw the Rocks a head, within pistol shot, with high breakers. Out all Boats, and just towed the Ship clear. Our situation was truly alarming, but we had no business so near the land in thick weather. However Good Luck prevail'd and a breeze springing up from offshore we stretch'd out clear in Boats. Foggy disagreeable weather. Cou'd observe at intervals that the woods were on fire. 79
12. Wind NE. Heard the roaring of Breakers, foggy, haul'd more off shore. At 3 P. M. saw a rock about a stone's throw distant, and narrowly escaped being dash'd upon it damn nonsense to keep beating about among rocks, in foggy weather. At midnight heard the surf roar again, which I suppose to be on the North side of the Straits, sounded and found ground at 25 fm. Rocks. The Captain, at length, was
78 At present these cannot be identified. Navarrete says in Viajes y Descu- brimientos Apocrifos, pp. 113-121, that Elisa, who was exploring the strait that year, returned in August; and in any event, according to this author, had only two ships, though Bancroft thinks it possible there may have been three. See Ban- croft s History of the Northwest Coast, vol. I, p. 244 et seq.
79 Haswell says: "The weather became so hazy we could see scarcely 4 miles. The weather was not damp, but appeared like an intensely thick smoke." Hoskins gives the following account: "At noon it was cloudy with exceeding sultry weather the wind blowing in puffs off the land and fetching so hot a stream that many of our people insisted on it that they were burnt. The higher you were aloft the greater was the degree of heat this is I conceived to be occasioned by some back woods the natives must have been setting fire to, though there was no smoke seen to warrant this opinion." ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 291
frightened, 80 and proceeded with the Ship to a good offing (this ought to have been done long before), thick foggy weather, with a moderate breeze.
16. N. Latt. 48 14'; W. Long. 124 3(X *. Fog clear'd off, saw Cape Flattery bearing NNE. 2 leagues. Very strong tides. At Noon we were about 2 miles from Tatooch Isle. Came to with the Kedge, sandy bottom, the Island bearing North. I think it possible there is a passage between Cape Flattery and this Isle of Tatooch; it appears about 2 miles wide. However cou'd see breakers between them and currents are excessive strong, as we cou'd discern them to foam in that narrow pass. Many Natives came off, and we purchas'd a few skins and plenty Halibut. Weigh'd and came to sail towards evening, bound to Clioquot.
AT ANCHOR IN CLIOQUOT HARBOUR
18. N. Latt. 49 9'; W. Long. 125 26' This day anchor'd in our Old Station 81 in Clioquot harbour, found the Brig Lady Washington still riding here. 82 At this Harbour Captain Gray had determin'd to winter, if he cou'd find a suitable place, for to build a Sloop of 45 Tons, for to assist in collecting furs, on the next season. The stem and stern post, with part of the floor timbers had been brought from Boston for this pur- pose.
19. On the 19th Capt. Gray went with two boats up the sound, for to seek a convenient cove. In the evening the Captain return'd, having found a place to his mind, about 4 leagues 83 from where the Ship lay.
WINTER QUARTERS, LATT. 499' N ; LONG. 1253(X W.
20. On the 20th weigh'd, with light airs, and with the Boats ahead, assisted by the Brig's Crew, we tow'd, and sail'd, into
80 Both Haswell and Hoskins give this awful experience in somewhat greater detail and unite in blaming Captain Gray for his stubbornness in refusing to seek an offing. Hoskins asserts that at times they could not see a hundred yards ahead; and for two days the Columbia was tacking backwards and forwards across the strait with its strong tides "having the surf on one side and the breakers on the other to give us warning when to go about."
8 1 In Port Cox, see ante, note 14. The latitude given is correct; the lati- tudes are usually nearly right but the longitudes are always too rar east; the longitude here should be 125* 58'.
82 Kendrick's movements appear quite leisurely. Gray can get ready to sail for China in three days; see entries in this journal Sept. 30, 1 79*. el seq; but it takes Kendrick nearly a month. Haswell says that on their return Kendrick was not much nearer ready than when they had left, ten days before.
83 This is an exaggeration. Hotkins is nearer correct; be says eight miles ​
292 JOHN BOIT
winter quarters, which we call'd Adventure Cove, 84 and moor'd Ship for the winter. Vast many of the Natives along side, and appear'd to be highly pleas'd with the Idea of our tarrying among them through the Cold Season. The Columbia lay moor'd in this Cove till the 25th of March, 1792. I shall en- deavour to give the heads of our proceedings during that period. Adventure Cove was situated in about the Latitude of 49 15' N. and Longitude 125 30' W. of London, about 17 miles from the Ocean. This Cove was form'd by an Isle and the SE. shore Clioquot sound so small, that when the Ship was moor'd, you might throw a stone upon the beach in any direction, the passage in was not to exceed 100 feet, so that we was in a complete bason. (At 25th inst. Capt. Kendrick sail'd for Can- ton. 85 } The Adventure was set up at the back of a fine beach, the woods being previously clear'd. A Log House 86 was erected near, mounted with two Cannon, with Loop holes for Musketry. Here Capt. Haswell, with a party of Seamen, and all the Mechanics was station'd. Near it, the Blacksmiths and Boat Builders Shops were plac'd; two Saw pitts was erected, and kept constantly at play, sawing planks, and was supplied with Logs from the sound, by Boats constantly on that duty. So that Adventure Cove soon had the appearance of a young ship yard. Strip'd the Ship to a gritline, and kept a gang under the directions of the Boatswain upon the rigging.
from the anchoring place (Port Cox) and fifteen miles from the sea. According to Haswell, it was intended to winter at Naspatee (Nesparte Inlet, Columbia's Cove), but the wind was adverse, and as the fall was approaching it was con- cluded to find some suitable spot in Clayoquot Sound.
84 It is difficult to identify this cove with certainty, principally because none of the writers, Boit, Haswell, nor Hoskins agreed upon its distance from any one place; and again, it was such a small cove that the Columbia was moored with cables to the trees on either side, and thus situate was completely landlocked. Hoskins says also that the Indians called it Clickslecutsee; all efforts to trace this name in the nomenclature of today have, up to the present, been unsuccessful. It is clear that Adventure Cove was on the eastern side of Disappointment Sound, Meares Island, for Hoskins records that when the Columbia lay in the harbour (Port Cox of Meares) the flag staff of Opitsitah bore north northwest, Harbor Island (Stubos Island) south one half west, and Fort Defiance (Adventure Cove) east by north. Dr. C. F. Newcombe of Victoria has kindly furnished me with the following note, which supports the above statement: "The Indians of Clayoquot Sound told me that the Americans built their first ship on the southeast point of the entrance to Disappointment Sound in Meares Island, just opposite the present village of Opitsat, which was already in existence."
85 Captain Kendrick appears to have made this voyage with more celerity than he usually showed. He left Clayoquot on zsth September, 1791, and was at the Sandwich Islands on 2/th October, as appears from Vancouver's Voyage (vol. I, p. 383, ed. 8vo. 1801). There he left some men to collect sandal wood and pearls. He sailed for China and, according to Ingraham, arrived in Larks Bay, near Macao, on 7th December; a good quick passage.
86 Kendrick had called his house Fort Washington; Gray named his Fort Defiance. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 293
The Natives made us frequent visits, and brought a good supply of fish and some Sea Otter Skins, and by keeping a small boat down sound, with 4 of our Seamen we procured a constant supply of wild Geese, Ducks and Teal. The Geese and Teal resembled those at home, but the Ducks were exactly of the same Species, with the tame of our Country. 87 We see none of any other kind. Now and then we shot a wild turkey. 66 The Natives appear'd to be highly pleased with the different works going on at the Cove. They sometimes brought us Venison and supplied us with as many boards as we wanted. They was all caeder, and appear'd to have been split with wedges, from the Log.
October 7. An alarm was given by the Centry at the Block house, that there was Canoes in the Cove. Finding they was discover'd they soon went off. 89
13. The frame of the Sloop was up complete, and this day brought the Garboard streak of Plank to her bottom. This is what I call dispatch. Wickananish, high Chief, came on board, with severall of the Royal family. He inform'd that his winter village 90 was a great way off, which occasion'd his visiting us so seldom. He went on shore, and astonishment was conspicu- ous in his countenance at the work going on there. The Natives was very much puzzled to know how we shou'd get the Sloop off when finish'd, as she was 75 foot back from high water mark. Wickananish is the most powerful chief 91 we
87 The mallard which is the parent of our ordinary tame duck.
88 As there were no wild turkeys in that region, Professor Meany has suggested that it may have been a large grouse. Mr. F. Kermode, the Curator of the Provincial Museum of British Columbia, however, thinks that it was a sand- hill crane. He points out that some persons to his knowledge have mistaken it for a wild turkey. Haswell records, under date of ajrd May, 1792, that at Portland Canal he "had the good fortune to shoot a turkey."
89 Haswell gives a totally different version. "But wonderful to tell," he says, "these mighty war equipped savages turned out to be none other than some rocks, which the tide ebbing low had left dry." He adds that he did not chide the sentinels for their error, preferring that they should report the least suspicious
90 Haswell in his first Log says: "Their winter village Oakakinah (is) far up a fresh water river where they have plenty of silmon." Hoskins calls it Okerminnah. It was so far, the Indians told him, from Adventure Cove that it took them the greater part of two days to paddle the distance. It was likely on the Bear River, which flows into Bedwell Sound, and is the village which was attacked by Maquinna while Jewitt was a captive. See Jewitt's Adventures, 168 ft ttq, Edinburgh 1824.
91 The first white person to see Wickananish has fortunately left us a manu- script account of him. She says: "A day or two after sailing from King George's Sound we visited a large sound in latitude 49 -20 north, which Captain Barkley named Wickananish's Sound, the name given it being that of a chief who seemed to be quite as powerful a potentate as Maquilla at King George's Sound. Wick- ananish has great authority and this part of the coast proved a rich harvest of fur for us. This is an extract from Mrs. Barkley's diary which is in th Archive* of British Columbia. This was in 1787. ​
294
JOHN BOIT
have yet seen on this Coast. His tribe consists of upwards of 3000 souls. They allow Polygamy, but the women are not prolific, as barrenness is very common among them. The Indians girls kept us well supplied with Berries of different kinds, which was very gratefull.
14. We was inform'd this day that Capt. Crowell, in the Brig Hancock, was at Juan de Fuca straits. 91 *
27. The Natives brought us some excellent Salmon. Experi- ence much rain, which hinders the work. When the weather is too bad for to work on the Sloop, keep the Carpenters under shelter making a boat for her. Heard of three Spanish ships 92 being at Nootka. Keep always upon our guard against surprize as we are among a powerful sett. The boat after game, met with some Indians that was a little troublesome, but by firing a musket over their heads they soon went off. These Indians was very enquisitive, for to know the cause of thunder and lightning, but we cou'd not make them understand the real cause, but much surprized them by saying there was a man in our Country, that made both. They suppose thunder to be occasioned by an Eagle carrying a Whale into the air, and Lightning, the hissing of a Snake, which are exceeding large in this country. One of our Seamen, being down sound a gunning, saw one of these animals, which by his discription was as big round as his thigh. 93 Being alone, and somewhat frightened, retir'd without firing. These Indians are very superstitious in regard to this Animal, for when they go on a whaling cruize they always rub their face with a piece of it. We have never been able to gain much information as respects their Religion, but they certainly pay adoration to the Sun, and Moon, and believe in Good and evil Spirits. They lash
91 }4 This is a strange error. The Hancock was then at the Sandwich Islands on her way to China. On 6th October Ingraham records that on his anchoring at Owhyhee he met the Hancock, then lately arrived from the Northwest Coast, and spent some days in her company. She sailed at about that time for China and was there during that winter.
92 The identity of these ships is uncertain. Malaspina in the Descubierta and the Atrevida had been there, but sailed about the end of August. The San Carlos and the Santa Saturnina were probably still at Nootka, though they returned that fall to San Bias, but at what time is not known.
93 This frightful monster the seaman described as being like an alligator Hoskir.s started at once to find it, but all he could discover was a piece of burnt log. When he spoke to the Indians about it they recognized it as the magic animal, Haieclick, and offered twenty skins for a specimen. "If they have the least piece of it in their canoe they are sure to kill a whale, which among them is deemed the greatest honour. Indeed a piece of it ensures success at all times and on all occasions." ​
LOG or THE COLUMBIA 295
their dead on the trees, first stowing them in a box 3 or 4 feet long. The Head and Legs are cut off to make good stowage, and little valuables that belong to the deseas'd are bury'd with them. Capt. Gray went to an Indian Village for to look at a Chief, said to be very sick. On his arrivall he was received very cordially, and conducted to the sick man's house, which was full of people. In one Corner lay the Sick Chief, and around him eight strong men, which kept pressing his stomach with their hands, and making a most hideous Bow-wowing, in the poor fellow's ears. Upon the Captain's approach he sup- pos'd the Chief to be nearly dead, and ordered this band of Doctors to desist. 94
December 22. Having made him some gruell to take, the Chief soon came to a little, and order'd two Sea Otter skins as a present. After giving him a Wine toast he order'd him to be left to sleep, and visited a number of Chiefs houses, the masters of which treated him with an attention not very com- mon among savages. (He returned on board.) I made an excursion to this same Village, not long after. As soon as I landed, Men, Women, and Children came down to the beach to receive me, but did not offer to molest the boat. Found the sick Chief much better, and reliev'd him from his pressing and noisy friends. The house was large and commodious, and wou'd hold fifty Indians very comfortably. All round was packages of Fish in Boxes, and decorated with pearl shells. Their furniture consisted chiefly of matts, and wooden boxes, which last serves to boil their fish in, which they easily do by applying red hot stones, till it boils. They neither scale or draw the fish, but as it comes from the water, so it goes into the box, to boil, or on the Coals to broil. There was severall fires about the house but being there being no chimnies, the smoak was too mighty for my eyes. They sleep on boards, rais'd about a foot from the ground, and covered with matts, rolling themselves up with furs. Over the sick man's head there was a board cut out in the shape of a heart, and stuck full of Otter's teeth, with a long spear on each side of him. His young wife did not appear to be affected at the sight of
94 This wu Yethjan, the youngest brother of Wickmnanish. The brief description of the practice of the Shamans agrees with other accounts. ​
296
her sick husband, but the Father and Mother was watching their Son, with the most parental affection. After boiling him some rice and leaving more with his mother, I left the village and returned safe on board.
25. This day was kept in mirth and festivity by all the Columbia's Crew, and the principal Chiefs of the sound, by invitation, din'd on board ship. The Natives took a walk around the work shops on shore. They was surprized at seeing three tire of wild fowl roasting, at one of the houses indeed we was a little surprized at the novelty of the sight ourselves, for at least there was 20 Geese roasting at one immense fire, and the Ship's Crew appear'd very happy, most of them being on shore. The Indians cou'd not understand why the Ship's and houses was decorated with spruce bows. At 12 clock fir'd a federall Salute, 95 and ended the day toasting our sweethearts and wifes.
1792. January 1. This day, being down sound, with the Jolly boat after game. I stopt at the village. Visited Yethlan the sick Chief, and found him much better. The family treated me extremely well. I received many pressing invitations from the rest of the Chiefs, for to visit their houses, and complied with most of them, and was particularly pleas'd at visiting Wickananish' s dwelling, who this day had given an entertain- ment 96 to all the warriors of his Villages, with many visitors from distant villages. As soon as the King saw me I was call'd towards him, and seated upon his right. This house was about 80 foot long, and 40 broad, and about 12 feet high, with a flat roof. The King was elevated about two feet higher than the company, with a Canopy over his head, stuck full of animals teeth. The Company consisted of above 100 men, all considerably advanced in years. The Women belonging to the house was in an apartment by themselves, busily employ'd making their Bark Garment. The Machines for that purpose,
95 A salute of thirteen cannon shots. Martinez in his diary gives the fol- lowing explanation: "They told me that the reason for not giving more shots each time was since there were thirteen of the American states and thirteen stars in the canton of tneir flag, they had orders from their Congress to fire these salvos with a like number of shots."
96 This entertainment took place at Opitsitah, the regular dwelling place of the tribe, on Meares Island. Hoskins tells us that they had only returned from their winter village at Okerminnah a week or so before. He gives the date of the festivities as the 31 st December and enters much more fully into the details. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 297
is not unlike the Looms with us. They are very neat and dexterous in this business. The entertainment (which con- sisted of Fish Spawn mixed with Berries and train Oil,) was served up in wooden Bowls, handed by the lower Orders of males. I was invited strongly to partake, but the Smell was enough therefore pleaded indisposition. After they had done, the remains was sent to the females. The King inform'd they was going to have a dance in the evening, and wish'd me for to stay. However I declin'd, and return'd on board. This Village was 3 leagues 97 from Adventure Cove. Capt. Hannah, a Chief of the village, Ahhousett sometimes came to see his old friends (as he call'd us). He resided 9 leagues from the Cove but was under the Jurisdiction of Wickananish.
6. This day one of the Chiefs of Juan De Fuca Straits came on board. He was upon a visit to Wickananish, and indeed had married his sister, inform'd us there was a Spanish Ship in the Straits, brought many furs.
17. Began to caulk the Sloop Adventure's bottom, it being completely planked up. I this day made an excursion to the Village, having put myself under the car of Tatoochkasettle, 98 one of the King's brothers, who conducted me in his Canoe. Upon my arrival was treated as usuall very politely. I took up my residence at Tatoochkasettle's house, who invited a large company to sup with him. After supper finding I wish'd to visit some other familys he sent his servants with lighted torches, for to conduct me. I return'd back about Midnight and found there was an excellent watch kept throughout the village, each one hooping at certain intervals throughout the night. My Indian friend had made me as comfortable a berth to sleep on as was in his power, but the House being full of smoak, and the young Children very fractious, occasion'd my sleeping but little all night. In the morning early observ'd most of the Men bathing on the Beach. On enquiring the cause, was inform'd that this day the King was going to give his Eldest Son the name of Wickananish, and take another
97 Haswell fives the distance btwn Opitsitah and Adventure Cove as three m\l3.
98 The eldest brother of Wickananish, and the Chief who had been decoyed on board and held until Attoo, the Sandwich Island boy, was returned. Evi- dently this insult still rankled in his breast, despite his outward appearance of friendliness. ​
298 JOHN BOIT
upon himself, upon which account there was to be great rejoic- ings. About noon, upwards of 100 men assembled upon the beach in front of the Village, with the King at their head. Their dress, which was exactly uniform, consisted of a Blankett, made fast around the Loins with a Girdle, and reach'd about half way down their thighs. Their hair was turn'd up, and tyed with a thick bunch before and decorated with feathers. Their faces was painted of different colours, and their bodies of a deep red. Beads and fibres of Bark were woulded round their Ancles and Knees, and at a distance they made a grand, although savage appearance. They collected near the water, at one end of the village, in regular tiers, about four deep. At each wing many women were placed with Copper Boxes," in which was small Stones, serving as part of the music. The procession moved slowly along, the front squatting on their hams, the others standing erect, with three of the King's brothers upon their shoulders, who were dancing and running from right to left, in that position while those under them was on the Continual move. The King kept in front, giving the word of Command. All their voices kept perfect tune with the rattling of the boxes. The rest of the inhabitants were seated along the beach viewing the performance. When they arrived opposite the King's house, they enter'd single file, and I fol- lowed to see the transactions within doors. About 30 of the principal Actors seated themselves in a Circle, and was pre- sented with a piece of board and a small stick. This they used instead of a Drum. The whole Company then began to dance and sing, and the Musicians joining, made it very pleasing. But the Smell was too strong for my Organs. Therefore soon drew off. These Natives are mild and chearfull, with little of that savage appearance that Savages generally have. Their Com- plexions is very light Copper, 100 but they darken it with Oil and Paint. The Hair is coarse, long and black. 'T is a
99 Hoskins also mentions such boxes. It is possible that they may have been manufactured from the sheets of copper purchased from the traders. It is certain that they were not manufactured from the native copper.
i oo Cook (Third Voyage, vol. 2, p. 303, 4to. ed. 1785) says that when the dirt and paint were well rubbed off "the whiteness of the skin appeared almost to equal that of Europeans; though rather of that effete cast which distinguishes those of our Southern nations." Almost every other voyager has made some- what the sam remark. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 299
general custom to eat their own Vermin, and they are so plenty that they will often make a decent repast. The Men are generally thick set with flat noses and broad faces. The Women are pretty. Their eyes are rather small, and though they are not very quick and piercing, they give the counte- nance a frank, chearfull, and pleasing cast. We understood from the Natives that they sometimes made Human sacrifices, and shocking to relate, that they eat the flesh of such poor victims. However I do not believe that this custom is very common and only happens on some very particular Occasion. A prisoner of War is the person selected for this savage feast. 101 18. This day severall chiefs came on board, one of which we found was busily employ 'd talking with our Sandwich Island lad. Their conversation was soon put a stop to, and the Lad examin'd, but he denyd that the Chief ask'd him any improper questions. These Natives, always behaving so friendly, 102 occasion'd us to place too much confidence in them, and what a pity it is, that we cou'd not leave this port, with that opinion of them which we had heretofore held ; But alas ! We find them to be still a savage tribe, and only waiting an opportunity for to Massacre the whole of us, in cold blood. The Ship had been brought some days previous to this, to a bluff point of Rocks, where she lay'd as to a wharfe, not even touching the ground at low water. The Cannon and all the stores was landed here, as we was about hauling on the beach to grave and pay the Bottom. The situation of the Ship at this period was very favorable to their views, 103 and must have encouraged them with the hope of destroying the whole of us ; without the loss of a man on their side. However in this they wou'd have been mistaken, as we kept a strong watch, under the conduct of an Officer and was always guarded against
iot Hoskins accompanied Boit on this visit and enters much more fully into the description of this entertainment.
102 Hoskins nevertheless records that in the preceding October a hunting party had had some difficulty with th natives, who had behaved in a very rude manner, striving to take their fire arms from them and seeking to capture Captain Gray. Though Boit was of the party, he makes no allusion to the occurrence. It was thought that this action was instigated by Tootiscoosettle in revenge for hit treatment already mentioned.
103 Hoskins opposed this move, as it had the effect of separating the crew and left the ship and the fort out of sight of each other. "I only told Captain Gray." he says, "I hoped the native* would not take any advantage of the oppor- tunity which was presented them." ​
300 JOHN BOIT
surprize. But shou'd we have been over pow'd by numbers, our friends perhaps never wou'd have known our sad fate.
But fortunately, in the evening, the Sandwich Island lad made a confession to his Master, (as follows) : 104 He said Tatoochkasettle, (the Chief) told him, that Wickananish was about to take the Ship and Massacre all the Crew, and said he shou'd be a great man if he wou'd wet our Musketts, and steal for him some Bulletts. He said they shou'd come that night, or the next, or the next, and told him to come over to them, when the fray first began. This news alarm'd the Ship's Company exceedingly, and we immediately got in readiness to receive them. Capt. Gray call'd his officers together, for to consult what was best to be done, and we was unanimously of opinion that 't was best to haul the Ship on the ways, and grave her, as, the tide then suited, and we cou'd retreat in safety to the Block House shou'd the Natives appear, (where we had several Cannon mounted and good quarters.) This plan was immediately put in execution, leaving a strong guard on the point for to guard the Stores, with necessary signals shou'd they want relief. By midnight one side of the Ship was finish'd, when we heard a most hideous hooping of Indians, and at every shout they seem'd to come nearer. Every man immediately took his arms, and stood ready, both on board ship and at the Log house. They kept hooping about one hour, when they ceas'd and 't is probable retreated, lamenting their hard luck, that the cruel plan was so completely frus- trated. The guard at the point saw many large Canoes off the entrance of the Cove, but like brave fellows, they scorn'd to quit the station. In the morning tide we finish'd the Ship, and haul'd again to the point, and in the course of the Day took on board all the stores and cannon, and moor'd off in the Cove, in our old berth. Scal'd the Guns, which made all rattle again, and I believe never was more work done in so short a time. But Men determin'd can do most any thing.
It does not appear that Wickananish wish'd to conquer a part of us, as he had frequent opportunitys to have accomplish'd
104 Both Haswll and Hoskins tell the same _story, in the main; though their accounts are more circumstantial and more thrilling. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 301
it, for two or three times a week a boat was down at the Village, 105 generally with an Officer and four Sailors, but I suppose he very prudently thought, that shou'd he cut a boat's Crew off, there was still enough left, for to destroy his Villages. The Chiefs had been telling us for some time that they was going to war with a distant tribe and wish'd for us to lend them Musketts and Ammunition, which some of these fellows used as well as ourselves. We had observed of late that they did not seem so cheerful as common, but seem'd to be deeply wrapt in thought. After this, no more of the Natives visited Adventure Cove, except some old women and young girls, who brought us berries and fish and most propable they was sent as spies. 106
March 4. This day the Ship was completely rig'd, hold stowed, and in every respect in readiness for sea. She look'd like a fiddle! The King's Mother came along side and brought some otter skins which we purchased. She told Captain Gray that the Moon inform'd her Son if he come to the Ship he wou'd be killd.
21. This day departed this life, after a lingering sickness, Benj. Harding 107 (Boatswain). He was a smart, active, and steady man, and one that know'd, and did his duty in every respect. Deposited his remains, next morning, near to the Block house, after performing divine service. Promoted a Seaman to his place.
22. Launch'd the Sloop Adventure. 10 * She went off ad-
105 At the very time of this attempt Hoskins was making a visit to the village Opitsitah. He found warlike preparations proceeding, ana was not allowed the same freedom of roaming in and out amongst the houses that he had theretofore enjoyed. When he returned the greatest consternation prevailed on the ship. The crew were much rejoiced at his safe return, telling him that they never expected to see him again. It was then he learned of the attempted capture of the Columbia.
1 06 Hoskins says that these people would not exchange their fish and leeks for anything but powder and shot, and in reply "Captain Gray ordered them to immediately depart with a promise of giving them a-plenty of both articles when we should come down to Opitsitah." This may perhaps be interpreted to mean that already Captain Gray had formed the intention of destroying the village.
tor "This man," says Hoskins, "was a good seaman and well respected in his office the spirits of this man was surprising the night we expected to be attacked by the natives at a time when he was not able to be removed from his bed he begged that be might have a pair of pistols laid along side of him that should the natives overpower us he might shoot the savage who came to take his life then says he I should die in peace."
1 08 Boit makes the date of this launching and March; but Hoskins and Haswell both say the ajrd February. ​
302 JOHN BOIT
mirably. 109 Took a hawser and got her along side the Ship, and soon had her rig'd.
24. The Sloop Adventure is ready for sea. 110 Capt. Has well, 1st mate of ship, went on board and took charge, taking with him Mr. Waters (4th mate) and a crew of ten Seamen and trades- men. I think she was one of the prettiest vessels I ever saw, of about 45 tons, with a handsome figure head and false badges, and other ways touch'd off in high stile. There was not a Butt either in the Planks on deck or sides, and the plank not above nine inches wide. She was victuall'd for a four months cruize, and supplied with Articles for the Queen Charlotte Isles trade, on which route 't was meant she shou'd go, while the Ship proceeding along the Southern Coast.
25. Pleasant weather, wind at SE. In the morning got the Remainder of our affairs from the shore, and unmoor'd. Left Adventure Cove, and stood down Sound, with the Sloop in company. We left our log houses all standing. Anchor'd abreast the Village Opitsatah, but found it entirely deserted. 111 Observ'd very few Canoes moving.
During our long tarry in Adventure Cove, we all enjoy'd good health, although the Crew was at times very much ex- posed. The boatswain's sickness commenced before our ar- rival in the Cove. The weather was generally very fine, and very seldom had Snow, and never Ice thicker than a Spanish Dollar, but experienced frequent heavy rains. We pick'd Whurtle and Blue Berries, throughout the winter, which was very fine, and Whurtle Berry pudings was quite common with us. We kept the Crew continually supplied with Spruce beer, and their breakfast and supper was Tea boiled from the green Spruce boughs sweetned with Molasses. Perhaps this method kept the Scurvy off. However they did not eat much Salt pro- visions, as we was generally supplied with Poultry, Venison, and fish.
109 Hoskins says that on the first attempt she ran a little more than her length and stopped; the ground proving false the ways sank under her; the carpenters relaid the ways and she was successfully launched the next day. Haswell is to the same effect with slightly different details. The first attempt was made on 22nd February.
no This took, according to Haswell and Hoskins, about a month, and not two days, as Boit has it.
in The natives had suddenly removed to Echahchist on Village Island. This village is shown on Meares map already mentioned (Meares Voyages, p. 202, 4to. ed). So precipitate had been their flight that they had left many of their domestic utensils scattered about their houses and hidden in th bushes. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 303
27. I am sorry to be under the necessity of remarking that this day I was sent, with three boats all well man'd and arm'd, to destroy the village of Opitsatah. It was a Command I was no ways tenacious of, and am grieved to think Capt. Gray shou'd let his passions go so far. 112 This village was about half a mile in diameter, and contained upwards of 200 Houses, generally well built for Indians; every door that you enter'd was in resemblance to an human and Beasts head, the passage being through the mouth, besides which there was much more rude carved work about the dwellings some of which was by no means inelegant. This fine village, the work of Ages, was in a short time totally destroy'd.
CRUIZING TO THE S. AND E. OF DE FUCA STRAITS
April 2. Weigh'd in company with the Sloop, and left Clio- quot harbour, and stood to the South'd with the Ship, while the Sloop haul'd her wind to the Northward. Parted, with loud Huzzas, a proper rendevous being appointed.
3. On the 3d passed De Fuca Straits, experience blowing weather on the coast, but generally keep sight of the Land. The Shore seems sandy, and the land of a moderate height, with much clear ground fit for cultivation. 113 Lat. 45 15'. There is regular soundings of this Coast, which is not the case to the Northward.
7. N. Latt. 44 56'; W. Long. 122 52*. Very blowing weather, and quite cold. Beating off the Coast, waiting for to find a good harbour. 114 The weather grows pleasant.
9. N. Latt. 44 24'; W. Long. 122 17' Pleasant weather, wind NW. Running along shear to the South and East'd, about 2 miles off the land trended NBE. and NEW., and look'd very pleasant. The Shore made in sandy beaches, and the land rose gradually back, into high hills and the beautiful
1 12 Neither Haswell nor Hoskins mentions the destruction of this village Opitsitah; but there is no reason to doubt the fact. Gray had made a threat to give the natives powder and shot when he reached the village. His conduct after the attempt to take the ship was that of an angry man; Hoskins record* many instances of his exhibitions of passion, and complains bitterly of this con- duct, which was only ruining the chances of trade with these people, who were great hunters.
(Notes 113-138 inclusive by T. C Elliott.)
1 13 Cruising to southward along coast of state of Washington, and this observation taken off Cape Lookout
1 14 Observation taken a little north of Cape Foulweather on coast of Oregon. ​
304 JOHN BOIT
fields of grass, interspersed among the wood lands, made it delightfull. 115
10. N. Latt. 43 45'; W. Long. 122 11'. Abreast a small inlet in the land, which had some the appearance of an harbour. Hove to for some canoes that were coming off. These Natives talk'd a different language from any we have before heard. Their canoes had square stems, and the blades of the paddles oval. We purchas'd of them many fine Otter skins for Copper and Iron. They had some raw Buff aloe in the canoes, which they offer'd us for sale, and greedily devourd some of it, in that state, as a recommendation. I'm fearfull these fellows are Caniballs. 116 Mr. Smith, 2d Officer, was sent in the Cutter to look for an harbour but was unsuccessful. Bore off and made sail. Cape Gregory (so call'd by Capt. Cook) bore SE. Variation. Amp'd 15 57' East.
11. N. Latt. 42 50'; W. Long. 122 3'; Amp'd 16 4? E. Some Canoes came along side full of Indians and brought a few Otter and Beaver skins. Cape Mendocin bore ESE. 2 leagues. 117 Hauld again to the Northward.
17. N. Latt. 44 54'; W. Long. 122 23'; Azi. 16 57' E. Sent the Boat, under charge of 2d officer, to examine an -inlet abreast the Ship, to see if there was safe anchorage, but was unsuccessful. A large Canoe came along side full of the Natives. By their behaviour the Columbia was the first ship they ever saw. 118
22. ;N. Latt. 46 39'; W. Long 122 50'; Azi. 17 33' E. Still beating about, in pursuit of anchorage. Sent the boat in shore often, but cou'd find no safe harbour. The Natives fre-
115 Now off mouth of Alsea river and Bayview, Oregon.
116 Off the mouth of Umpqua river in Oregon. Of course, there were neither buffalo nor cannibals there, but with reference to the claim that cannibalism was practiced on the Northwest Coast of America it is of interest to quote a private letter from so high an authority as Dr. C. F. Newcombe, of Victoria, B. C, who says that no one making that statement has admitted ever being a witness to such an act. Then, referring to Cook, Ledyard, Meares, Galianp & Valdes, Malaspina and Roauefeuil, he says: "In none of these is there anything said that would give grounds for thinking that cannibalism in our province was anything more than a ceremonial affair." "Coming down to our own times, if you will look up that well known work of Dr. Boaz, 'The Social Organization etc. of the Kwakiutl Indians,' you will find ample evidence for believing that this tribe has to a very recent date kept up the observance of what to them is a religious rite."
1 1 7 Nearly as far south as Cape Blanco, on Oregon coast.
1 18 Returning northward. No inlet charted opposite this location. If the legendary claim that Capt. Gray landed on the coast of Oregon is true, this journal does not reveal the fact. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 305
quently came along side, and brought Otter furs and fish. Their language to us was unintelligible. Experience strong currents setting to the southward. We have frequently seen many appearances of good harbours, but the currents and squally weather hindered us from a strict examination. How- ever Capt. Gray is determin'd to persevere in the pursuit. 119
AT ANCHOR OFF THE VILLAGE OF KENEKOMITT
27. N. Latt. 47 52*; W. Long. 123 30' O A. This day stood in shore, the weather having become more settled, and anchor'd with the Kedge in 15 fm. sand, abreast a village, call'd by the Natives Kenekomitt, 120 which was situate on a small Hill, just back of the Beach. The Indians brought us a fine lot of Skins, which we got chiefly for Copper, but the weather coming again unsettled, we weigh'd towards evening and stood off making short hanks off and on, shore. These Indians spoke the same language as those in De Fuca Straits.
28. This day spoke his Britannic Majesty's Ships Discovery and Chatham, commanded by Capt. George Vancover, and Lieutenant Wm. Broughton, from England, on a voyage of discovery. 121 Left England April 1st, 1791, Do Othaheita January, '92, and Sandwich Isles March, '92. A boat boarded us from the Discovery, and we gave them all the information in our power. Especially as respected the Straits of Juan De Fuca, which place they was then in search of. They bore away for the Straits mouth, which was not far distant. Stood in and drain'd the village we was at yesterday and then bore off after the English ships.
-29. Pass'd Tatooch Isle, close on board, and left a large ledge of Rocks without us, and stood into the Straits of De
1 19 Now off Willapa Harbor on Washington coast and no mention at all of mouth of Columbia rivr in passing. The longitude cited must be disregarded as too far east, an error common to the observations noted in this journal.
1 20 This village was close to a point now charted as Teakwhit Head. som miles southeast of the mouth of Quillayute river on the coast of Washington. A mall stream emptying there had some years ago the Indian name Kenehenwhitt. according to O. B. Sperlin, of Tacoma. Possibly identical with "Queenwith* mentioned by Barkley in 1787 and Meares in 1788.
I3i Compare with Vancouver's Voyages, ist Edit., vol. i, page 313, where it is stated that on April agth Capt. Vancouver anchored off Destruction Island, but made sail at 3 A. M. on morning of Sunday, the 29th. and at 4 A. M. sighted the Columbia, and had his officers on board of her at 7 A. M. This would have been about off the mouth of Quilliyute river. A New Vancouver Journal, published in Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. 5, p. 133, puts the date as joth of April. ​
306 JOHN BOIT
Fuca. Many Indians came off and brought plenty of furs. The English ships came too towards evening on the South entrance of the straits. In the morning they got under way and stood up. We stood in and anchor'd, to the Westward of Cape Flattery, in 17 fm. Trade not very brisk. Got under weigh again towards evening and stood to the S. and E. along shore.
May 1. N. Latt. 47 52'; W. Long. 123 3(X; Azi. 17 30' E. Anchor'd off the Village Kenekomitt, in the place we left on the 27th April. Tatooch Isle bore WB'S. 2 leagues. A brisk trade for furs. 122
3. Hove up and made sail for the Straits, the weather looking threatening and soon enter'd them, found smooth water. Kept beating to and fro, in preference to casting anchor.
5. Stood in toward Tatooch's Isle. The Natives brought plenty of Halibut and other fish, but few Skins. Stretch'd out from De Fuca Straits and bore off to the S. and E., running along shore, about 2 miles from land.
6. Hove to for some Canoes to come up. They brought us fish but no skins. Bore off. These fellows belong'd to a small village in sight from the Ship, call'd Goliew. 123
AT ANCHOR IN GRAY'S HARBOUR 124
7. N. Latt. 46 58'. Saw an inlet in the land, which had all the appearance of an harbour. '.Sent the Cutter, under charge of 2d Officer, to examine it. Laying to, a strong current with Squally weather. The Boat returned, and the Officer re- ported that he cou'd find nothing but breakers at the entrance, but farther in it had the appearance of a good harbour. This appearance being so flattering, Capt. Gray was determin'd not to give it up. Therefore ordering the boat a head to sound, with necessary signalls, the Ship stood in for the weather bar
122 The Columbia followed the ships of Capt. Vancouver as far as the entrance to the Straits of Juan de Fuca, but then returned to the southward, for trade and discovery.
123 Our Indian name, Quillayute. The village is La Push, at mouth of the river of that name.
1 24 Gray's Harbor, State of Washington. So named by the under officers of the ship Columbia, as indicated by this and Haswell's Journal. Capt. Vancouver adopted this name, but Capt Gray always referred to it as Bulfinch's Harbor, in honor of one of the principal owners of his ship. Compare with entries in the Log of the Columbia (printed herewith), giving much the same information. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 307
and we soon see from the Mast head a passage in between the breakers. Bore off and run in NEBE., having from 4 to 9 fathom sand, an excellent strong tide setting out. The boat having made a signal for anchorage and a good harbour, we continued to stretch on till completely within the shoals when we anchor'd in 5 fm. in an excellent harbour. Vast many canoes came off, full of Indians. They appear'd to be a savage set, and was well arm'd, every man having his Quiver and Bow slung over his shoulder. Without doubt we are the first Civilized people that ever visited this port, and these poor fellows view'd us and the Ship with the greatest astonish- ment. Their language was different from any we have yet heard. The Men were entirely naked, and the Women, except a small Apron before made of Rushes, was also in a state of Nature. They was stout made, and very ugly. Their canoes was from the Logs, rudely cut out, with upright ends. We purchas'd many furs and fish.
. N. Latt. 46 58'; W. Long. 123 0'. Vast many canoes along side, full of Indians. They brought a great many furs which we purchas'd cheap, for Blankets and Iron. We was fearfull to send a Boat on discovery, but I've no doubt we was at the Entrance of some great river, as the water was brack- ish, and the tide set out half the time. This evening heard the hooting of Indians, all hands was immediately under arms. Several canoes was seen passing near the Ship, but was dispers'd by firing a few Muskets over their heads. At Mid- night we heard them again, and soon after as 't was bright moonlight, we see the canoes approaching to the Ship. We fird severall cannon over them, but still persisted to advance, with the war Hoop. 125 At length a large canoe with at least 20 Men in her got within y 2 pistol shot of the quarter, and with a Nine-pounder, loaded with langerege and about 10
125 Capt. Gray, in hit log, makes no mention of this attack. He had similar experiences on the coast of Vancouver Island and further north. The circum- stances suggest the presence of a war party from the south. The natives there would have been of the Chehalis or Chickales tribe of the Chinookan family. Compare with Vancouver's Voyages, ist Edit., vol. a, pp. 79-02, where is related the visit to this harbor of Lieut. Joseph Whitbey in the Daedalus, who remained there Oct. ipth-Nov. loth, 1702, and encountered very few Indians and those very peaceable. Whidbey bestowed the names Point Brown and Point New, which still remain. Capt. Gray left no nomenclature here. ​
308 JOHN BOIT
Muskets, loaded with Buck shot, we dash'd her all to pieces, and no doubt kill'd every soul in her. The rest soon made a retreat. I do not think that they had any conception of the power of Artillery. But they was too near us for to admit of any hesitation how to proceed.
9. Very pleasant weather. Many canoes came along side from down River 126 and brought plenty of Skins; likewise some canoes from the tribes that first visited us, and their counte- nances plainly show'd that those unlucky savages who last Night fell by the Ball, was a part of the same tribe, for we cou'd plainly understand by their signs and gestures that they were telling the very circumstance, to their acquaintances from down River, and by Pointing to the Cannon, and endeavoring to explain the noise they made, made us still more certain that they had no Knowledge of fire arms previous to our coming amongst them. I am sorry we was oblidged to kill the poor Devils, but it cou'd not with safety be avoided. These Natives brought us some fine Salmon, and plenty of Beaver Skins, with some Otters, and I believe had we staid longer among them we shou'd have done well.
11. Weigh'd and came to sail, and stretch'd clear of the bar. 127 Named the harbour we had left, after our Captain. Standing to the South.
AT ANCHOR IN COLUMBIA'S RIVER
12. N. Latt. 46 7' ; W. Long. 122 47'. This day 128 saw an appearance of a spacious harbour abreast the Ship, haul'd wind for it, observ'd two sand bars making off, with a passage
i26Boit uses the expression "down river" here and later when referring to Indians coming to trade from upper parts of the Chehalis and Columbia rivers.
127 The Columbia was a ship of only 212 tons, as certified by the collector of the port of Boston, and drew only six to eight feet of water, which was the extreme draft of vessels entering Gray's Harbor before any dredging was done on the bar. The fact that Capt. Gray left this harbor at evening and sailed directly southward all night, and the next morning "at 4 A. M. saw the entrance of our desired port bearing east-southeast, distance six leagues," suggests that he had obtained from the Indians of Gray's Harbor some definite information as to the existence of a large river at Cape Disappointment. Boit mentions later on that he recognized some of these same Indians around the ship in the Columbia river, but this is doubtful.
128 Compare with Log of the Columbia, which is printed herewith. For cotemporaneous mention of this discovery, consult "Log of H. M. S. Chatham" in Oregon Hist. Quarterly, vol. 18, page 231 et seq.; Letter of John Hoskins, th supercargo or clerk on board the Columbia, to Jos. Barrell, one of her owners, in archives of Miss. Hist. Society, Boston, said letter being dated at San Lorenzo, Nootka Sound, Aug. 2ist, 1792; Capt. Geo. Vancouver's Voyages, ist Edit., vols. i and 2; Journal of Capt. Jos. Ingraham, of the brig Hope, in Library of Congress. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 309
between them to a fine river. Out pinnace and sent her in ahead and followed with the Ship under short sail, carried in from l /z three to 7 fm, and when over the bar had 10 fm. water, quite fresh. The River 129 extended to the NE. as far as eye cou'd reach, and water fit to drink 130 as far down as the Bars, at the entrance. We directed our course up this noble River in search of a Village. The beach was lin'd with Natives, who rang along shore following the Ship. Soon after, above 20 Canoes came off, and brought a good lot of Furs, and Salmon, which last they sold two for a board Nail. The furs we likewise bought cheap, for Copper and Cloth. They appear'd to view the Ship with the greatest astonishment and no doubt we was the first civilized people that they ever saw. We observ'd some of the same people we had before seen at Gray's harbour, and perhaps that was a branch of this same River. At length we arriv'd opposite to a large village, situate on the North side of the River, about 5 leagues from the en- trance. Came 131 to in 10 fm. sand, about }/\ mile from shore. The River at this place was about 4 miles over. We purchas'd 4 Otter Skins for a Sheet of Copper, Beaver Skins, 2 Spikes each, and other land furs, 1 Spike each.
129 The Columbia river (or Columbia's river, as named by Captain Gray), the existence of which had been the very positive belief of geographers, n.ivigators and explorers for nearly two hundred years. Its mouth had been associated with the fabled Straits of Anian, and the voyage of the Spanish navigator, Martin de Aguilar (1602). Its westward flow and watershed had been reported by Charle- voir and the French explorers in the Mississippi Valley and beyond during the first half of the fifteenth century under the broad designation River of the West. Its upper courses had been strangely confused with those of the upper Missouri by Major Robert Rogers in 1765, who then applied the name Ouragon. Its theoretical source had been blantantly placed in northern Minnesota by Jonathan Carver in 1778,. who called it the Oregon; and it's true source was not discovered until 1807 by David Thompson. In 1775 the Spanish navigator, Bruno Heceta, sailed up to its mouth, made an astronomical observation and bestowed names upon river, bay and the two capes, but these names did not become permanent. Thirteen years later Capt. John Meares, an Englishman, after similar examination, declared that no such river existed, and left the name Cape Disappointment to commemorate his warped or ignorant opinion. In April, 1 792, Capt. Geo. Van- couver examined the opening at longer range and recognized Cape Disappoint- ment and confirmed the opinion of Capt. Meares. Now Capt. Robert Gray con- firms the discovery by Heceta and actually sails into the long looked for river.
130 Explained by the fact that the river was then in flood with the spring freshets. In October of the same year Lieut. Broughton of the Chatham did not find this condition of fresh water, and did not find as much depth of .water on the sand bars further upstream. This accounts considerably for the criticisms by Broughton and Vancouver of the chart or sketch of the river given by Capt. Gray to Capt. Vancouver when at Nootka. That chart has never been found for reproduction, but the chart showing Lieut. Broughton's survey in October- November of this same year (1792) reprinted herewith.
131 This anchorage was a little southeast of the R R. station now known as McGowan's and a little southwest of Point Ellice on the north bank of the river. It is practically the tame as that of the Chatham on October aist. 1793, as indi- cated on the chart herewith. ​
310 JOHN BOIT
We lay in this place till the 20th May, 132 during which time we put the Ship in good order and fill'd up all the water casks along side, it being very good. These Natives talk'd the same language as those farther South, but we cou'd not learn it. Observ'd that the canoes that came from down river, brought no otter skins, and I believe the otter constantly keeps in Salt water. They however always came well stocked with land furs, and capital Salmon. The tide set down the whole time and was rapid. Whole trees sometimes come down with the Stream. The Indians inform'd us there was 50 Villages on the banks of this river.
15. N. Latt. 46 7'; W. Long. 122 47'. On the 15th took up the anchor, and stood up River, but soon found the water to be shoal so that the Ship took the ground, after proceeding 7 or 8 miles from our first station. However soon got off again. Sent the Cutter and found the main Channel was on the South side, 133 and that there was a sand bank in the middle. As we did not expect to procure Otter furs at any distance from the Sea, we contented ourselves in our present situation, 134 which was a very pleasant one. I landed abreast the ship with Capt. Gray to view the Country and take pos- session, 135 ' 13554 leaving charge with the 2d Officer. Found
132 This amplification discloses that the writing of this journal was not diurnal, but this entry at some later date, presumably on May zoth, when the ship left the river. This probably explains the unimportant divergence of one day between the dates given by Capt. Gray and Boit.
133 Capt. Gray found that the deep water or ship's channel of the river then, as now, crossed the river from Harrington Point to Tongue Point and followed the south band to Point Adams, but then crossed again into Baker's Bay behind Cape Disappointment. Sand Island was then attached to Point Adams and lay directly in what is now the deep water channel off that point. For discussion of this consult vol. 18, pp. 242-3 of this quarterly. Lieut. Broughton's chart does not show this deep water channel.
134 The latitude cited is practically correct, but the longitude a full degree too far east. This anchorage was somewhere near Point Gray, which is the location of the speculative townsite of Frankfort, now shown on commercial maps of the north bank of the river. According to the table of distances by th government engineers, this point is seventeen and a half miles from the sea. Boit does not record all the movements of the ship on May I4th, isth and i6th, and for this compare with Log of the Columbia, printed herewith.
135 The words "and take possession" were inserted at a later time and are in quite a different ink. W. C. F.
i35# As indicated by Mr. Ford, this is an interpolation. It suggests a cere- mony which is not yet known to have actually taken place, and one which would have been of great value to the U. S. officials during the boundary disputes prior to the treaty of 1846. During the first session of the 32nd Congress of the U. S. a bill was introduced for the relief of Martha Gray, widow of Capt. Robert Gray, and of the heirs of Capt. John Kendrick (S. B. Bill No. 526), and in that connection on Aug. nth, 18*2, a report was filed which contained unsupported statements as to such an act of taking possession. In "Early Days in Old Oregon" (McClurg, 1916), there appears the positive statement of the author that such an act was performed, but no references are given to support it. If proven this will become a very interesting item of history. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 311
much clear ground, fit for cultivation, and the woods mostly clear from underbrush. None of the Natives come near us.
18. Shifted the Ship's berth to her Old Station abreast the Village Chinook, command'd by a chief named Polack. 136 Vast many canoes, full of Indians, from different parts of the River were constantly along side. Capt. Gray named this river Columbia's, and the North entrance Cape Hancock, and the South Point, Adams. 137 This River in my opinion, wou'd be a fine place for to set up a Factory. The Indians are very numerous, and appear'd very civil (not even offering to steal). During our short stay we collected 150 Otter, 300 Beaver, and twice the Number of other land furs. The river abounds with excellent Salmon, and most other River fish, and the Woods with plenty of Moose and Deer, the skins of which was brought us in great plenty, and the Banks produces a ground Nut, which is an excellent substitute for either bread or Potatoes. We found plenty of Oak, Ash, and Walnut trees, and clear ground in plenty, which with little labour might be made fit to raise such seeds as is necessary for the sustenance of inhabitants, and in short a factory set up here, and another at Hancock's River, in the Queen Charlotte Isles, wou'd engross the whole trade of the NW. Coast (with the help [of] a few small coast- ing vessells).
20. This day 138 left Columbia's River, and stood clear of the bars, and bore off to the Northward. The Men, at Co- lumbia's River, are strait limb'd, fine looking fellows, and the Women are very pretty. They are all in a state of Nature, except the females, who wear a leaf Apron (perhaps 't was a fig leaf. But some of our gentlemen, that examin'd them pretty close, and near, both within and without reported, that
1 36 Evidently a predecessor of Comcomly , the one-eyed potentate of the Chinook Indians during so many years of the fur trade period, whose daughters were given in marriage to some of the traders.
i .17 This name is still officially recognized, but the name given to the northern cape did not become permanent. Captain Heceta named the southern point Cabo Frondoso because of the trees and brush which then grew down to the edge of the beach. Astoria, on the southern bank fifteen miles inland, was the first trading post on the lower river and Fort Vancouver, one hundred miles inland and on the north bank, became the first Factory, meaning thereby The residence and headquarters of the Chief Factors, who managed the business of the district
138 Now the two accounts, Capt Gray's and Boil's, synchronize. The date* given by Capt Gray are official and take precedence, and it is still correct to say that the Columbia river was first entered by white men on May nth. 179*. A similar divergence of one day appears in the narrative of Capt. Vancouver the following October. ​
312 JOHN BOIT
it was not a leaf, but a nice wove mat in resemblance ! ! and so we go thus, thus and no War ! !
21. N. Latt. 47 55'. Abreast the Village Colin, hove to and purchas'd some Skins from the Natives, then bore off to the North and West
22. N. Latt. 48 20' ; W. Long. 124 32'. Saw Tatooch's Isle and Cape Flattery, on the S. and E. entrance of Juan De Fuca straits (bound to the North 'd) for to meet the Sloop Adventure.
23. N. Latt. 49 9'; W. Long. 128 0' O * <T. Pass'd Clioquot harbour, fine fresh gales, at SE.
24. N. Latt. 50 10'; W. Long. 128 10'. Pass'd Woody point, at 2 miles distant. Several canoes put off from Colum- bia's Cove, but we did not stop.
AT ANCHOR IN ST. PATRICK HARBOUR
25. N. Latt. 50 30'; W. Long. 128 30'. This day the Ship being abreast a fine inlet, dispatch'd Mr. Smith, in the Cutter to examine it. Soon after the Boat had a signal for a harbour. Haul'd our wind and stood in shore and anchor'd 15 fm. mud and sand, in a complete Snug Cove. 139 Many canoes came along side, full of Indians. They was all dress'd in War Armour, 140 and completely arm'd with Bows, arrows and Spears, and had altogether quite a savage appearance. I believe they was fearful we shou'd rob their village, which was at no great distance as they appear'd much agitated. How- ever soon began a brisk trade for Otter furs. We landed, with the boats, and got Wood and Broom Stuff, but the Indians wishing to be troublesome, soon give over this business indeed I was obliged to knock one of them down with my Musket.
1 39 It is difficult to identify this cove. If the latitude could be relied on it should be in Quatsino Sound; but no such cove exists there near the ocean as this cove manifestly was. The reference to the fine inlet and the complete snug cove would fit San Josef Bay and Sea Otter Cove, which lies just west of it. Meares gives on page 326, 4to. ed., a representation, of Sea Otter Cove and fixes its latitude as 50 41'. Unfortunately, however, Boit says they anchored in fifteen fathoms and Sea Otter Cove has only five fathoms at its entrance and one to three fathoms inside.
140 Captain Cook tells us that this "armour appeared to be the skin of elk tanned; it covered them from the breast almost to the heels; it was not only suffi-
ist July, 1808, "Th Chief made me a present of a coat of mail to make shoes. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 313
AT ANCHOR IN COLUMBIA'S COVE
28. N. Latt. 50* 30*; W. Long. 128' 3ff O . Weigh'd and came to sail, and left this harbour, which we named St Patrick's. 140 * The Indians were much the same as the Nootka tribes. Standing towards Woody point, which was in sight. Towards evening, anchor'd in Columbia's Cove, in our former berth, past many natives along side, and seem'd much pleased at our visiting them again.
29. N. Latt. 50 6'; W. Long. 128 12'. Vast concourse of Indians coming off, among whom was Necklar chief of the sound. They brought many more furs than they did the last season we visited them. Found these Natives so chearful and oblidging, that we did not apprehend any danger in send- ing parties on shore after Wood and Water. However, they soon discover'd our Crew was diminish'd, and was very in- quisitive for to know what had become of the rest of us. We thought prudent for to tell them that they was asleep below. I mistrust that the Indians did not believe us, but probably supposed our Shipmates had been kill'd. At 10 in the evening, a number of large canoes full of People, came into the Cove. They halted near some rocks about Pistol shot from the Ship, and there waited about ten minutes, during which time all hands was brought to arms, upon deck in readiness to receive them. Soon after a large War Canoe, with about 25 Indians, paddled off for the Ship. We hail'd them, but they still per- sisted, and other canoes was seen following, upon which Capt. Gray order'd us to fire, which we did so effectually as to kill or wound every soul in the canoe. She drifted along side, but we push'd her clear, and she drove to the North side of the Cove, under the shade of the trees. T was bright moon light and the woods echoed with the dying groans of these unfortunate Savages. We observ'd many canoes passing and repassing the Cove, at a small distance, in all probability they was after the poor dead Indians. They soon after ceas'd
140 J4 Captain Hanna had named St. Patrick's Bay in this vicinity. It it San Josef Bay on our maps of todty. In it Hanna gives 15 fathoms, but it is not a snug cove, being three miles in length and two miles in breadth at its entrance and open to all winds except from the north. There is no contemporary account to assist us here; for Moslems' Narrative ends with the departure from Clayoquot and Haswell was at this time on the Advtnturt. ​
314 JOHN BOIT
groaning, and we neither see nor heard any thing of them after. 141
We always found these Natives very friendly but they soon discover'd how thin the Ship's Company was now to what it was when we visited them before, and I believe it is impos- sible to keep friends with savages any longer than they stand in fear of you. But I cannot think they had any intention of boarding the Ship but were after a small anchor, which they in the course of the day see placed on some rocks (above water) for to steady the Ship, and when taken off at dusk they had left the Ship. But still they was daring fellows to think they cou'd steal the anchor of a moon light night, within pistol shot of the Ship. Capt. Gray did not wish to fire upon them, for we cou'd easily have blown them to pieces, while they was holding a conference abreast the Rocks. They first stopt all by firing a cannon or two among them, and the reason we suffer'd them to approach so near before firing was that we were in hopes they wou'd miss the Anchor and then leave the Cove, for we wish'd much to keep friendly with these Indians, as this was the appointed Rendezvous for to meet the Sloop.
BOUND TO THE NORTHWARD
30. This day unmoor'd and left Columbia's Cove, bound to the Northward, having left a Board nail'd to a tree, just back of the watering place, with the following inscription "Ship Columbia, arriv'd May 28th Saild May 30th. BEWARE/' that in case Capt. Haswell shou'd arrive before us, he might be on his guard.
June 1. N. Latt. 50 7 ; W. Long. 128 30' ; Amp'd 21 20* E. Head wind at NW. and squally weather. Ships Crew all well and hearty.
141 On 3rd June, 1792, some of these Indians arrived at Nootka asking from
8uadra assistance against a vessel which, said they, had attacked their village, lling seven, wounding others, and despoiling the rest of their sea otter skins. They brought with them a wounded Indian to be treated by the Spanish doctor. The natives claimed that the Americans, being unable to agree upon the price of the furs, had used force to compel them to surrender their peltries. The account in the Viaje, page 24, proceeds as follows: "Segun se pado comprehender el buque era la Fragata Americana la Columbia, su Capitan Gray, a quien indi- caban los Indios con la senal de que era tuerto; circumstancia que sabiamos recaia en dicho Capitan." In connection with the Indian account the entry of May 25 ante may be consulted; it will be observed that Boit believed "they was fearful we should rob their village." ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 315
4. N. Latt. 51 0'; W. Long. 129 1'. Some Canoes full of Indians came off from the Shore, abreast the Ship, and many valuable skins was purchas'd. Iron seem'd most in demand. These fellows soon grew saucy, and threw a number of stones, at our people, but as we did not wish, (if possible) to avoid it, for to shoot the poor mistaken savages, we bore off to the Northward, keeping in sounding from 30 to 20 fm., 2 miles off shore.
PINTARD'S STRAITS 142
5. N. Latt. 51 30'; W. Long. 129 30'; Azi. 20 3(X E. This day saw a large entrance in the land, between two points, above 4 leagues wide. 143 We haul'd in for the same and when between the points had no bottom with 30 fm. We directed our [course?] about E^S and cou'd not see the Land to the East. The Ship went in exceeding fast with a strong tide in favour. Water was quite salt, which prov'd it not to be a River. Observ'd many high Rocks and small Isles, scatter'd about in this famous Straits. Kept the Lead going but got no bottom with 30 fm. line, and saw no signs of Indians. Towards dark stretch'd close in to the South Shore for anchorage, but found none. Kept working under short sail all night, making short boards. No ground in any direction with 120 fm. line.
6. Azi. 20 30' E. Bore away up sound, in pursuit of anchorage and Natives. At length, after advancing 15 leagues up sound, we came to, within stone's throw of the beach, in 20 fm. water, sandy bottom, upon the South shore.
7. I went on shore abreast the Ship, with two boats after wood, took the Carpenter with me for to cut a Mizen topmast. We had not been long at work, in the Woods before above 200 Indians, of a sudden rush'd out upon us. The carpenter
142 Pinurds Sound was the name given by the Americans to the waterway now called Queen Charlotte Sound, in honour of J. M. Pintard of Boston, one of the owners of the Columbia and the Washington. The first mention of the name, so far as can be at present ascertained, is in Haswell's first Log in May, 1789, on the first voyage made by the Americans (that of the Washington) to the northward. "I am of opinion," says Haswell, "there must be some inland con- munication by lakes or perhaps the sea may continue by large arms and have communication in the interior part perhaps by way of Pintnrd Sound."
143 At its entrance this sound is twenty miles wide, though in its extent it* average width is from ten to fifteen miles. It is very deep. There are only two places. Beaver Harbour and Port Alexander, where a vessel of any sise can find good anchorage. The sound is only fifty miles long; the distances given in this part are much exaggerated. ​
316 JOHN BOIT
being some way from the rest of the party, got nearly sur- rounded, and was oblidged to fly, leaving his Broad Axe behind. I immediately rallied my people together, and retreated slowly, at the same time fir'd a few Musketts over their heads which kept them in check. At length they advanced so near as to throw their Spears. We then discharg'd our Musketts and killd several. However they still persisted, and I believe if we had not got to the beach (clear from the woods) that we shou'd have been overpower'd. They heard the reports of the Musketts on board, but never dreamt that we [were] attack'd by Indians, as none had been seen before. Imme- diately as we made our appearance the Ship cover'd us with the Cannon and the Grape and round shot, must have done considerable damage to our pursuers, as they fell just into the brink of the wood, where the thickest of the Indians was. This soon dispers'd them, and we got all safe on board. Some of these fellows afterwards came down abreast the Ship and brandished their Weapons at us, bidding defiance.
8. N. Latt. 51 30'; W. Long. 129 30'; or thereabouts. Got under way bound farther up the Straits and towards eve- ning luff'd into a small bend of the land, and came to -in 17 fathom close to the shore. 144 A few canoes, with Indians came off, who talk'd the Nootka language. They inform'd that in two days, through the woods, they cou'd reach Nootka Sound and indeed, the Ship was at Anchor near to a Mountain, which is plainly in view at Friendly Cove, (Nootka Sound).
9. Many canoes of this day, and plenty of fine Otter Skins was purchas'd. About Noon, 20 large War Canoes hove in sight, with above 30 Men in each, and we soon discern'd with our Glasses that they was all arm'd, with Spears and Arrows. The friendly Indians that was trading along side, told us these people had come to fight, and belong'd to the tribe we had fir'd at two days before, when attack'd upon the beach. Capt. Gray thought it not safe to admit them along side at once, and therefore order'd them, when within hail, for to keep off, and
144 This may be Beaver Harbour, though it is strange that he does not mention the islands that protect it. From this vicinity there ts an Indian trail some eight miles in length which leads to Quatsino Sound, which may have been mistaken for a trail to Nootka Sound. As the crow flies the distance to Nootka Sound is about eighty miles. The mountain referred to is, likely, Mount Karmut- zen; but this is not visible from Nootka. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 317
not but one canoe come along side at a time. They obey'd the command, and one canoe, with 42 men came alongside, but had only a skin or two. We soon discover'd that the main body of canoes was paddling towards us, singing a War Song. We fir'd a cannon and some Muskets over their heads. At this they mov'd off about 100 yds. and again halted. A Small Canoe, with a Chief, (paddled by two Indians) kept con- stantly plying between the Ship and the main body of the Canoes, counting our men, and talking earnestly to the Natives along side, encouraging them to begin the attack. He was suffer'd to proceed in this manner some time, when Capt. Gray told him to come near the Ship no more, but he still persisted, and was shot dead for his temerity. Also the Chief Warrior, of the Canoe along side, was shot, for throwing his Spear into the Ship. They then made a precipitate retreat, and the trading Indians, who had kept at a small distance viewing the transactions, again recommenced their trade with us. They inform'd us these Indians, who meant to attack us, was of another tribe with them. Canoes with Indians, came along side and traded away their Otter Skins, but not without Manifest signs of fear.
12. The Natives kept bringing furs, which we purchas'd for Copper and Goth. Iron very dull sale.
FROM PINTARD'S STRAITS TO COLUMBIA'S COVE
13. Weigh'd and came to sail, standing down straits saw a number of fishing canoes, at a distance but none came near. Towards evening came to in 16 fm. at our former anchorage. See no Indians.
14. Fair wind and pleasant, weigh'd and stood down straits, and at 9 in the evening got clear out bound to Columbia's Cove, our place of Rendezvous. Shou'd these straits join with Juan da Fuca, which perhaps it does, it must make the whole Coast between the Latitudes of 48 15' and 51 30' North and Longi- tudes 120 57' and 129 30' W. a vast Archipelago of Islands. 145
145 This idea is not original with Boit. It was in the air at that time. In M cares Voyages, 4to. ed., prefixed to his account of bis voyages in 1788 and 1789, is a map in which is shown the celebrated, and now proved to have been imag- inary, track of the Washington, entering at the Strait of Juan de Fuca and emerging at Queen Charlotte Islands. The curious will find further imaginary details of this voyage in the correspondence- of Meares annexed to the Report of the Archivist for British Columbia, 1014, and also in Newcombe's First Circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. The quotation from Haswell's first Log set out in note 142 ante shows the same opinion. Ingraham also entertained it ​
318 JOHN BOIT
We named the port we had entred Pintards, after one of the owners, and I've no doubt we are the first discoverers. 146 It is certainly the most dangerous navigation we have experienced being full of Ledges, small Isles, no soundings and excessive strong tides. But I think it affords the most Sea Otter skins. We procured upwards of 300 hundred, during our stay, and saild up this straits more than 100 miles, and cou'd see no end. 147 At our last anchorage, or rather the highest up the shore seem'd to trend about ESE.
15. N. Latt. 51 17'; Amp'd 21 14' E. Head wind beat- ing to and fro, making slow progress. The entrance of Pin- tards straits bore East, 3 or 4 leagues, 70 fm. water.
17. N. Latt. 50 6' ; W. Long. 128 12' O <f. Fresh breezes. This day spoke the Sloop Adventure, Capt. Haswell, sent our boat and Capt. Haswell came on board the Ship. Bore off the Cove. 'T is remarkable that we both meet within 12 league of our Rendezvous bound in. The chief of the Sloop's Cruize had been about the Charlotte Isles, and had collected about 500 Skins, all prime. 148 On the 24th of April Capt. Haswell fell in with the Ship Margaret of Boston, 149 James Magee Master. They was on the same business as ourselves. At 5 P. M. past Woody point, and at 7 anchored in company with the Sloop, in Columbia's Cove. 150 A few Natives ventured
146 Queen Charlotte Sound was discovered in 1786 by the Experiment, then in command of Wedgborough (Vancouver's Voyage, vol. 2, p. 308, 8vp. ed. 1801); though there may be doubt as to the exact person then actually in command. James Hanna in the snow Sea Otter was also in this sound in the summer of 1786. Duncan, in August, 1788, spent some time at its western entrance. Funter, in the North West America, was there in 1789; see his map of Raft Cove in Meares Voyages, 4to., p. 326, which appears to be the present Goletas Channel and Shushartie Bay.
147 This is an exaggeration; the Sound is only fifty miles long. Boit s state- ment that the shore at the end of their examination trended ESE would indicate that they were following the Vancouver Island shore, and at this point were looking down Johnstone Strait.
148 Under date i8th June, Haswell records that he "delivered to Capt. Gray 238 sea otter skins 142 Tails 23 Cootsacks and 19 pieces." The tails were fre- quently sold separate from the rest of the skin. The fur thereon was the richest. The cootsacks, or cutsarks, were Indian sea otter cloaks, usually composed of three
149 The Adventure, under Haswell, met this ship at Barrell Sound (Houston tewart Channel) on 7th May. Haswell says she was as fine a vessel as ever I saw
Boston by the first opportunity. .
150 This entry shows that Columbia's Cove was very close to Woody Point (Cane Cook) In rounding that point, owing to the rocks which extend from it, die ship would probably give it a berth of at least two miles; and within two hours she is at anchor. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 319
along side, after much coaxing. (Found the Inscription at the watering place unmolested.) Took the Skins from Sloop on board ship. Sent parties on shore, well arm'd after wood and water. Purchas'd some furs.
20. Haul'd the Sloop on shore, and graved her. Capt. Has- well says she is an excellent sea boat, and sails very well. 151 The Indians among whom we traded never offer'd insult.
21. Got the Sloop off the ways, and fitted her for another Cruize.
24. Weigh 'd and sail'd from the Cove, in company with the Adventure, bound to Queen Charlotte Isles.
25. N. Latt. 50 37'; W. Long. 129 55'. Fair wind and moderate breezes. Sloop in company. The coast about 8 leagues distance.
28. N. Latt. 52 18'; W. Long. 129 15'. Fresh winds, all sail out running along shore, about 3 leagues distance, with smooth sea. Sloop about 2 miles a head. At 2 P. M. the Ship struck a Rock, 152 which lay about 7 feet under water and did not break, hove all aback, and she came off clear, try'd the pump, and found she leak'd 1000 smart strokes per Hour, sounded along the Rock, and found no ground at 70 fm. Hoisted a signal for the Sloop, and she immediately haul'd her wind for us. Stood off, both pumps just keeps the leak under. In the morning bore off to the Northward.
151 Hoskins, writing to Barrel! on 28 th September, 1792, makes a different statement. He says, "she sails very dull"; but Haswell states twice in his second Log that she outsailed the Columbia.
153 Vancouver (Voyage, vol. 4, p. 287, 8vo. ed. 1801) says that Captain Gray in the Columbia struck and received some material damage upon a s tnken rock, which he represented as lyinq much further than a league from Cape St. James in an almost southeast direction. But the latitude and longitude given by both Haswell and Boit place it very much further east. Haswell, indeed, says it was abreast of the south entrance of Loblip Sound, which has been identified as Milbank Sound. There the coast is broken into low craggy islands and detached sunken rocks. "I was surprised to find Capt. Gray," says Haswell, "standing in for the land in a place that looked to me very dangerous. However, as he nal ordered me to lead off, I did not follow him. He had all sail on his ship, steering sails below and aloft. I had seen as I passed several sunken reefs of rocks, and as the Columbia passed not looking out properly, she struck. I immediately made Mil to windward, hoisted my boat out and set off for the ship. She fired a gun, but soon swung clear of the rocks and hoisting her colon stood towards me. The ship hid been roing at the rate of 5 knots when she struck. She appeared to have met with no material damage compared with what might have been expected."
In a letter to Barrell dated from Nootka aist August, 1792, young Hoskins unburdens himself in regard to many matters on the vessel; after complaining of the risk run by Captain Gray in crossing the Columbia River bar, be proceeds: "At last, however, fortune refus'd any longer to smile and in blundering along (for I can call it by no better name) without any lookout kept, within three miles of a most inhospitable & rocky shore, the Ship going six knots with a crowd of sail struck on a rock about four feet under water (this was the ajth of June), the Sloop in company. Mr. Haswell says he in the Sloop saw the rock break ft haul'd from it (the Ship was to follow him)." ​
320 JOHN BOIT
29. N. Latt. 53 1'; W. Long. 131 41'. Came on a hard gale of wind, and although we kept firing Cannon through the night the Sloop parted from us, as 't was very thick in the morning. The leaks rather increas'd, and our feelings was not the most agreeable on the occasion. 153
OFF QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLES (SOUTH PART)
30. N. Latt. 51 57'; W. Long. 131 10'. This day see the Queen Charlotte Isles, stood in pretty close to the South pt. and fother'd the Ship with a topsail which we had pre- viously prepared for that purpose. This, fortunately for us, stop'd the leak one half.
July 1. N. Latt. 51 48'. Close in off the South pt. of Queen Charlotte Isles from which lay many detach'd Rocks. We pass'd the pt. within two or three miles and left many breakers without us in the Offing. We wish to get into Barrells sound.
2. N. Latt. 51 49'; W. Long. 130 30'. Saw the entrance of Barrells sound, bearing NW., the wind direct in our teeth. Employ'd turning to windwards, with all the Elements against us. Crew all in brave health.
3. Employ'd beating to windward through the night, in the morning spoke the Ship Margaret, James Magee, Master. Capt. Gray went on board the Margaret, and found Capt. Magee very sick. 154 This ship stopt a few days at the Cape De Verds, and made her passage in 6 months. They had not
153 Evidently the gale was from the northwest, as it drove the ship about sixty miles southward and about thirty eastward. Has well was informed at two o'clock in the morning by the officer of the watch that the ship had suddenly disappeared and he feared she had foundered. He immediately sailed the Adven- ture back to the spot where the Columbia had last been seen; but he searched for her in vain. Haswell loitered in the vicinity for another twenty-four hours, but seeing nothing of the missing ship, concluded that she had surely foundered. On 2ist August, while at Cox Strait (Parry Passage), he learned from Ingraham,
in the Adventure, had been instructed, as he was leading, to tack at twelve o'clock. The two vessels got into a race as to which could go longest and fastest by the wind. Haswell, nevertheless, tacked at midnight, but the Columbia's men, irritated that the sloop should tack before the ship, continued on their course without tacking until one o'clock. Of course, in that hour the vessels drew steadily apart; ultimately the Columbia was no longer seen; then arose the hue and cry that the ship had foundered.
1 54 The Margaret was owned by the same people as the Hope. Ingraham met her about a month later near Nootka Sound, when Mr. Lamb, the chief officer, came aboard to report to him that Captain Magee was very ill. Later Ingraham states that Captain Magee was so ill that it was agreed that he should return to China in the Hope as a passenger. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 321
been very fortunate in trade. Bore away to the Southward, in company with Capt. Magee, bound to Columbia's Cove, for the purpose of examining the Columbia's bottom. Fair wind at NW.
AT ANCHOR IN COLUMBIA'S COVE
5. N. Latt. 50 6' ; W. Long. 128 0' This day came to in Columbia's Cove in company with the Margaret. Several canoes came along side, and the Natives appear'd quite chear- full.
6. Hoisted all our Cannon, in the longboats of both Ships, made a raft of our spare spars on which we put everything possible that wou'd not damage. Struck yards and topmasts. So ends.
7. Took up the Anchor, and hauld the Ship on shore, on a fine beach, at high tide. When the tide ebb'd, 't was discover'd that the Ship's keel was split, and the lower part of the Stem was entirely gone, within 2 inches of the Wood ends, a great deal of Sheathing was off, and three of the plank next to Garboard Streak was stove on the larboard side. The Car- penters went to work and put in new pieces of plank but it was found impracticable to pretend to repair the bows with- out heaving down, or some such method, and this cou'd not be done in our present situation. Nootka Sound, where we knew there was a Spanish settlement, Capt. Gray tho't the most proper place, and we all concur'd in the opinion 155 .
8. Hauld the Ship off, and soon got ready to leave the Cove.
BOUND TO NOOTKA SOUND
10. N. latt. 50 6'; W. Long. 128 0' This day weigh'd, and again left the Cove, in company with the Margarett, 15 ** standing towards Nootka, but overshot it in the Night, which is a misfortune.
11. N. Latt. 49 9; W. Long. 125 26'. Abreast Clioquot
155 Hoskins* letter to Harrcll, dated from "St. Lorenzo. Nootka Sound. Augt. 21, 1792." shows that the owners' orders very positively forbade the ship's entering a Spanish port except in case of distress.
'55 54 Ingraham states that this vessel carried a Mr. Howell, who was charged with the duty of writing an account of the voyage. So far as is known this record is not extant at the present time. ​
322 JOHN BOIT
harbour, and as it's in vain to beat to Nootka with a strong breeze a head, we bore up, and towards evening, in company with the Margaret, anchor'd in Clioquot harbor. 156 The Natives were at first shy, but we prevail'd on some of them to come on board.
12. Capt. Gray, having met with Wickananish on board the Margaret, prevail'd on him to visit the Columbia, but he did not appear happy. However 't was the means of getting more Skins, than we otherwise would have done. Employ'd wood- ing and watering (abreast the Ship) and under cover of her Guns.
15. This day arriv'd in the Harbour the English Brig Venus Henry Sheppard Master, 6 months from Bengali in India. I went off to him in the offing, and piloted his Brig to the harbour. He inform'd us that at a small harbour in De Fuca straits, where he was at anchor a few days since, there was a Spanish settlement, where lay a Spanish 64, the master of which while amusing himself in shooting back in the woods, was kill'd by the Indians, in consequence of which the Spaniards seized a Canoe full of Natives and massacred them all (in cold blood) not even sparing Children. Shocking to relate ! 158
17. Weigh'd with a fair wind, and left Clioquot bound to Nootka sound, to repair the Ship, under the protection of the Spaniards. Left the Ship and Brig behind. The wind soon came a head, and we began turning to windward, without mak- ing much progress. However we shall reach it by persever- ance.
19. N. Latt. 49 0' ; W. Long. 125 0' Bad weather and the wind direct ahead. This day stood in and anchor'd in Clioquot harbour. Found the Ship made a poor hand beat-
156 The Port Cox already frequently mentioned in these notes. From this anchorage Gray could see all that remained of the destroyed village of Opitsitah, which was onlv four miles distant.
157 A brig of one hundred and ten tons commanded by a Captain Shepherd. Finding the price of furs too high on the sea coast, she sailed from Nootka to try the trade in Queen Charlotte Sound, and, much to Vancouver's surprise, was met by him near Calvert Island on i7th August, 1792. Vancouver's Voyage, vol. 2, pp. 319-320, 8vo. ed. 1801.
158 The atrocities were not always on the Indians' side. In grab am gives much the same account; he says the Spaniards killed eight of the natives on this occasion. See New Vancouver Journal in Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. VI, p. 57​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 323
ing to windward, without a Stem. Found the Brig Venus here, but Capt. Magee had sail'd. 159 No canoes off.
20. Wind favorable, weather more settled. Weigh'd at Daylight, in company with the Venus, and stood to sea. Wind soon haul'd in its old quarter. Employ'd beating to windward towards Nootka Sound.
21. N. Latt. 49 17'; W. Long. 126 0' Wind still at WNW. and fair weather. Saw Breakers point 160 NW. 4 leagues, making short hanks.
22. Weather'd away Breakers point and stood towards Nootka Sound. Observ'd the Spanish Colours flying at the Entrance of Friendly Cove, but the tide swept us so strong towards some breakers on the East shore, and the wind being light oblidg'd us to Anchor in 16 fm. rocky bottom. Hoisted our Ensign in a Wiff and fired a Gun for assistance which was answered by the Spaniards. Soon after see several Boats rowing towards us. Quite calm.
23. The Boats got alongside. They was sent by the Spanish Admirall to our assistance (except one, from an English Store Ship, 161 under charge of Mr. Neal, the 1st Officer) . This Ship was sent out by the British Government, with Stores for Capt. Vancocn'er, who had not yet arriv'd at the Sound. The Spanish boats was under the charge of a Pilot, who had order to Get the Ship to the Cove, and lend every assistance.
AT ANCHOR IN NOOTKA SOUND
24. N. Latt. 49 30' ; W. Long. 126 0' Light breeze from the South'd and East'd. Weigh'd and came to sail, under conduct of the Spanish Pilot, who well knew his business, and was perfectly acquainted with the soundings and tides. Upon passing the Spanish fort, 162 at the Entrance of the Cove, we
Martinez, who, in 1780. established the first Spanish settlement at Nootka and in the Mine year seized Meares' vessels.
161 The Daedalus of Vancouver's squadron, commanded by Captain New, whom Ingraham describes as "a very clever old gentleman."
162 On Hog Island; but not that which had been erected by Martinez in 1789. That fort had been dismantled when the settlement returned to Mexico in the fall of 1780. This was a new one erected on the same site by Elisa in 1700. It is described in the entry of the following day as a poor affair, barely sufficient to carry the weight of the guns. ​
324 JOHN BOIT
saluted with 7 Guns, which was return'd. Towards evening came to, in Friendly Cove (Nootka Sound). Found riding here the Store Ship, a Spanish Sloop of War, and the Brig Venus. The Spaniards treated us nobly, and offer'd freely every assistance in their power. We lay in this place till the 23d August. Shall give the Minutes of our transactions during that period.
25. N. Latt. 49 30' ; W. Long. 126 30' Discharg'd the Ship's Cargo and stores, and stored them in a house on shore which the Spaniards had lent us for that purpose. 163 Strip'd the Ship to a Outline, and got the riging all on shore to repair. The Spanish governor seem'd highly pleas'd with the dispatch that took place ; indeed ev'ry man in the Columbia was anxious to get the Ship in readiness to pursue her Voyage, well know- ing that the time drew nigh when we shou'd again be sailing towards our friends in America, and our sweet anticipation of the joys that await us there made us use ev'ry effort. This Spanish settlement at Nootka, contained about 50 Houses, 164 indifferently built (except the Governor's, which was rather grand than otherways) . There was about 200 Inhabitants, con- sisting of Spaniards and Peru Indians, but no females. Their fort was no great thing, mounted with 6 twenty four and thirty six pounders the platforms would not bear the weight of metal. There was two Botanists resided with the Governour. 165 Capt. Gray took up his lodgings at the governor's request, at his house.
163 Hoskins in his letter, referred to in note 155 ante, writes: "We arrived the 23rd of July, and reported our situation to the Spanish Governor, who very politely offer'd us every assistance. He has lent us store houses for our Goods, granted the second best house in his small Town for Capt. Gray and myself to lodge & do our business in; and insists on our eating & drinking with him, at his house, where we live most sumptuously."
1 64 This seems an exaggeration. Ingraham says "the villaere consists of 16 houses." This corresponds reasonably closely with the pictures still extant; furthermore it agrees fairly well with the diagram of that most interesting village which is appended to Elisa's map of the Strait of Fuca. A copy of this map will be found, numbered K, in the Berlin Arbitration Papers, Washington 1872.
165 This is the only reference to the presence of botanists in this unique set- tlement. Much research is still necessary before any adequate conception of the Spanish village at Nootka Sound can be obtained, or any knowledge gathered of the incidents in its short existence (1790-1795). In the New Vancouver Journal (Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. 5, p. 306) it is noted that the Aransasu on her return to Nootka in September, 1792, ' had a Botanist on board her." ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 325
29. Don. Van Francisco De La Vondego, 166 which was the name of the Governor, gave a grand entertainment, at his house, at which all the Officers of the Fleet partook. Fifty four persons sat down to Dinner, and the plates, which was solid silver was shifted five times, which made 270 Plates. The Dishes, Knifes and forks, and indeed every thing else was of Silver, 167 and always replaced with spare ones. There could be no mistake in this as they never carried the dirty plates or Dishes from the Hall where we dined (as / thought, on purpose to let us see the quantity of plate used by Spaniards in South America.)
31. This day got all ready to heave down, by the Spanish Sloop of War, the Governor having granted us his permission.
August 1. Haul'd along side the Spanish Ship, 168 fix'd our purchases to her, and soon had the Columbia keel out. But was oblig'd to right her again, as she made too much water, her upper works being quite weak. Capt. Gray determin'd to give over the Idea of heaving her out, and accordingly gave orders to prepare to lay her ashore on blocks.
2. N. Latt. 49 30' ; W. Long. 126 30' This day haul'd the Ship upon the beach at high water, and placed a long round log along her keel fore and aft, endeavouring to trip her over it, but the Bottom being so flat, she wou'd turn keel out. Other logs was laid, and moor'd with Cannon on the Beach, with an intention of laying the Ship's Fore foot on them, which we accordingly did at high water, the logs laying as far aft as the fore Chains. This method answered our most sanguine expectations. At low water, or half ebb, the ship's bows lay'd four feet above the beach. In this situation we scuttled her
1 66 Don Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra; one of the most interesting figures in the Spanish regime on this coast; his entrance into our history it gripping; no reader can forget his courageous voyage in the little Santiago in 1775. He was a fit representative of the courtly Spaniard; and while he was commandante at Nootka all visitors, of every nationality and of every kind of vessel, unite in bearing testimony to his constant courtesy and his unfailing kindness.
167 Ingraham records that when he dined with the Governor, Quadra, a few days later, he had an excellent dinner and everything was served on silver. He adds that it was Quadra's custotm to invite to dinner all commanders of vessels regardless of rank or nationality. Even when Vancouver and Quadra visited Maquinna at Tashees, the Spaniard took care to have the dinner served on plate. Vancouver's Voyage, vol. a, p. 354, 8vo. ed. 1801: Washington Historical Quar- terly, vol. 5, p. 304.
i68Of necessity this must be the Acttva; for the Aromas* was then engaged on the survey of Queen Charlotte Islands, under Camaano; while the Pnnceta lay at anchor guarding Fidalgo and his men at Neah Bay. ​
326 JOHN BOIT
Aft, so as to keep her steady in her berth, at high water. In three days, by the assistance of the Spanish and English Car- penters, a New Stem and part of the Cutwater was put to the Ship. Stopt the Scuttle, grav'd the Ship, and haul'd off to our Moorings.
8. The Spaniards view'd us, with astonishment, and the Governor observ'd that he believed we cou'd build a ship in a month.
9. The Brig Hope, Joseph Ingrahim, arriv'd here, on the 1st from Canton, 169 and sail'd this day on a Cruize.
10. On the 10th arrived here the ship Buttersworth, 170 from London, Wm. Brown Commander; Ship Margaret, James Magee, and Brig Hope, Joseph Ingrahim.
11. And on the llth arriv'd the Sloop Prince La Boo, 171 Capt. Gordon from London. These vessells were all in the fur trade. The Laboo was a tender to the Buttersworth.
16. The Ship Margaret 172 put to sea, under charge of Mr. Lamb, 1st Officer Capt. Magee residing with the Spanish governor for the benefit of his health.
22. This Day the Columbia was ready for sea, and in fine order. 'Have painted her complete.
23. Arriv'd the English brig Three B's, 173 Lieutenant Alder,
169 The Hope left Macao on ist April, 1792, and arrivel at Cox Strait (Parry Passage), Queen Charlotte Islands, on 2nd July. She had spent the interval in cruising and trading around those islands.
1 70 The ship Butterworth had been a French frigate of thirty guns. She was on the coast in 1792-3 as the "mother ship" under Captain William Brown, having as tenders the Prince Lee Boo and the Jackal. At Clayoquot a few days before this arrival at Nootka, she had an encounter with the natives, in which one sea- man was killed and two severely wounded. Captain Brown represented it as an unprovoked attack upon his boats; but Ingraham learned from the Margaret a totally different version in which the seamen were said to have robbed and attempted to rob the Indians of their furs and in the resultant struggle and retaliation the losses occurred; see Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. xi, p. 26. This expedition was quite unsuccessful in obtaining furs during the season of 1792. Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. vi, p. 58. At the end of the follow- ing season the Butterworth was dispatched to England with instructions to engage in whaling and sealing in the South Seas and at Staten Land, where her com- mander had formed a temporary establishment. Vancouver's Voyage, vol. v, p. 354, 8vo. ed. 1801.
171 The small sloop Prince Lee Boo, named after a young Chief who had been taken to England by Captain Wilson. This vessel was on the coast in 1792, 1793 and 1794, as one of the vessels of the Butterworth squadron. At the end of the season of 1793, she, in company with the Jackal, sailed to China, returning again in June, 1794- See Vancouver's Voyage, vol. v, pp. 354-S, 8vo. ed. 1 80 1.
172 According to the New Vancouver Journal, Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. v, p. 224, Captain Magee was utilizing his sick leave in selling intoxicating
1 73 The full name was Three Brothers, though the Viaje refers to her as "El Bergantin Ingles Tresbes." This vessel was one of the few British ships that utterly ignored the monopoly of the South Sea Company. Soon after her arrival, following Meares' and the Americans' custom, she set up the frame of a small sloop at Nootka. For further information, see Washington Historical Quar- terly, vol. 5, p. 3i; vol, 6, p. 59 and p. 85. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 327
Commander, from London, on a trading Voyage. BOUND TO CHARLOTTE ISLES
24. Weigh'd and came to sail, bound for Queen Charlotte Isles, Barrells sound, those Isles being the appointed rendez- vous, for to meet the Adventure, Capt. Haswell. It is but doing Justice to the Spaniards at Nootka sound to observe that during our tarry among them we was treated with the greatest hospitality, and in fact they seem'd to exert them- selves, and to feel interested in our behalf. May such fine fellows Never be in want of the like assistance shou'd they ever stand in need of it from the hands of any American. The Governor wou'd Not allow Capt. Gray for to pay one farthing.
25. N. Latt. 49 30'; W. Long. 126 30'. Nootka sound is as remarkable a place to know from seaward as any I know of. At most times latheo peak 174 (a mountain) in the form of a sugar loaf can be seen, and there is none other that at all resembles it, on this part of the Coast. A long low point, with high Breakers off it, makes the SE. part of the Bay. 175 The Western entrance of the sound runs down to a low point, with a small round Hill just back of Friendly cove.
28. N. Latt. 51 45'; W. Long. 130 30'. This day made the SE. part of the group of Charlotte Isles. A thick fog 176 came on, so that we cou'd not reach the sound. Employ 'd beating off and on, waiting for fair weather.
30. This day the weather clear'd and the Sloop Adventure hove in sight standing for Barcl. [Barrells?] sound. This is the second time we have met off the place of Rendezvous. Saluted each other with 7 Guns. Found Capt. Haswell and Crew all well, and had made a successful cruize. We stood
i74Conuma pak, a remarkable steeple-shaped mountain. 4,889 feet high, twenty miles from the entrance. It is a most conspicuous feature.
175 Kscalante point, low and rocky, marks the eastern entrance of Nootka Soun<i. The name is by association with Kscalante reef. It signifies in Spanish, climbing, or scaling.
176 All navigators, from the time of Juan Perez in 1774, complain of the thick fogs of Queen Charlotte Islands. ​
328 JOHN BOIT
into Port Montgomery, 177 a small harbour to the North'd of Barrells Sound, which the Adventure had visited before, and her Captain named it after our famous American General who fell before Quebec while gloriously fighting in the defence of our liberties. Graved the Sloop in this place, and otherways put her in fine order, to attract the eyes of the Spaniards at Nootka, as Capt. Gray meant to sell her to them if possible. Cut some spare spars at this place, and wooded and watered the Ship for her passage to Canton. Many Natives visited us, and brought plenty of fish but few furs. Took out the Skins from the Sloop 178 and stow'd them away on board the Ship.
BOUND TO NOOTKA SOUND
September 13. Weigh'd and stood to sea, in company with v the Adventure, bound to Nootka sound.
21. N. Latt. 49 30'; W. Long. 126 30'. Abreast the Entrance of the Sound. A Spanish Brig in sight to leeward, which hove to and fir'd a Gun. We immediately bore off for her. She was the Acteva of 14 Guns, with the Spanish Gov- ernor of Nootka 179 on board, bound to Peru. He told Capt. Gray that he wou'd wait 10 days at a small Spanish settle- tlement, in Juan De Fuca straits, where he was then going, for to leave some orders, previous to his leaving the Coast. He appear'd anxious to have the Sloop, and Haswell was not back- ward in displaying her to the best advantage. Towards evening we anchor'd in Friendly Cove, having saluted the .Spanish Governor with 13 Guns 180 when we parted. Found riding in the Cove His Majesty's Ships Discovery and Chatham, 181 The
177 Haswell gives its latitude as 52 25' north; his log shows that he was there twice, once in May and again in August, 1792. No longitude is given (it would be of no assistance, because of its constant inaccuracy), but it is plain from Haswell's log that on both occasions he reached this port from Dixon Entrance along the western coast of Queen Charlotte Islands. It was therefore on the western coast of these islands and north of Houston Stewart Channel. He calls it St. Tammonies Cove, Port Montgomery; from his scattered allusions it seems to have been a cove in a large sound. Though the latitude does not agree, could it by any possibility hay* been Ingraham's Magee Sound? In making a comparison it must be kept in mind that Ingraham stayed a considerable time in Magee Sound and made a careful examination; Haswell appears to have looked on it merely as a suitable rendezvous.
1 78 Haswell's entry, i2th September, 1792, reads: "I delivered to Capt. Gray 75 sea otter skins, 29 cootsacks, 137 tails, and 25 pieces."
1 79 Quadra was returning, not to Peru, but to San Bias in Mexico.
1 80 The federal salute; see note 95 ante.
181 Vancouver's vessels, which had arrived in Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, 28th August, 1792, after circumnavigating Vancouver Island. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 329
Dedalns, Store Ship, Capt. [Thomas] New, Ship Margaret, 162 of Boston, Capt. Magee, English Brig Fens, 163 Capt. Duffin, English Sloop Jackhall, 1 * 4 Capt. Steward, and a Spanish Line of Battle Ship of 74 Guns. Spanish Colours still flying at the fort, the Governor having refused to give up the Sound to Capt. Vancoover who was authoriz'd by his Government for to take possession of it. However the Spaniards told Van- coover that he might have that particular place where Capt. [John] Mears made his small settlement, and built a Sloop, which was very inconsiderable. Capt. Vancoover insisted upon having the whole or none. However they both agreed to let the business remain (in statu quo), to remain friends, and write home to their respective Courts, on the subject of dispute.
JUAN DE FUCA STRAITS
22. Weigh'd in company with the Sloop, and left Nootka bound to Port Ne-ar 185 in Juan de Fuca straits. Fair wind and pleasant weather.
23. N. Latt. 49 9*; W. Long. 125 26' O <t. Close in with Clioquot harbour. In the morning saw two Sail in the NW. At Meridian Tatooch's Isle 186 on the SE. entrance of the Straits bore Ei^S. 8 or 9 leagues.
24. N. Latt. 48 30'; W. Latt. [Long.] 123 45'. Spoke the Spanish Brig Acteva, with the Governor on board. They
182 This ship had just reached Nootka, arriving on igth September, 1792. Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. vi, p. 54.
183 The Fenis and St. Joseph. Vancouver says she was a Portuguese brig, commanded by John de Barros Andrede, with Mr. Duffin as supercargo, Voyage, vol. 2, p. 367; and see Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. vi, p. 50, to same effect. Perhaps Duffin, who had been with Meares in the Felice, may have taken his cue from his former employer. Duffin on this occasion give Vancouver a written account of the seizures of 1789; the gist of the letter will be found in Vancouver's Voyage, vol. , p. 370 et seq., and verbatim in Washington Historkal Quarterly, vol. vi, p. . et seq. She had arrived on i$th September. 1792.
184 The Jackal, of the Butterworth squadron. Vancouver calls her a schooner, but all others speak of her as a sloop. Ingraham had met her near the southern end of Queen Charlotte Islands on i;th July previous, and had at first thought her to be the Adventure; but she showed British colours, and on her nearer approach he saw that she had a tier of ports fore and aft, the greatest part of which were "false or only painted, yet they made a good appearance at a distance that for some time we concluded she was a Kings Cutter or tender to some of the men of war on the coast."
185 Neah Bay.
186 Tatoosb Island first appears in Duncans sketch ijth August, 1788. He give* the following information: "Green Island or To Touches is about 1 A mile in length; covered over with green grass; on the West Side It a mall Cove very narrow and only navigable for Boats; I saw some Canoes go in and out and many Indians on the Beach; on the East Side is a large village, and from the number of Canoe* that come to us from thence. I suppose it to be well inhabited." ​
330 JOHN BOIT
was much suppriz'd at our being in the Straits as soon as they was. At dark the Spanish Brig hove to under her tops'ls. We kept plying all night for our Port, and in the Morning got safe to anchor in C'o with the Sloop Adventure. Found riding here the Spanish Ship Princessa of 64 Guns, and Brig Hope, Capt. Ingrahim. This was a small, good harbour, 187 situate about 5 leagues from Cape Flattery, within the straits of De Fuca. The Spaniards had erected a Cross upon the beach, and had about 10 Houses and several good Gardens. 188 Several Natives along side, and a few prime Skins was pur- chas'd (with plenty of fine Halibut*)* I went with the Pinnace to the Assistance of the Acteva, she having been oblig'd to anchor near Cape Flattery, in a dangerous situation. When I came on board, instead of using every effort to get clear of Danger, they was performing Mass. However soon got under way and stood for Port Ne-ar. 189
25. N. Latt. 48. 35'; W. Long. 123 30'. The Acteva anchor'd in company. Saluted the Governor with 13 Guns, which was return'd. Employ'd filling up our Water, and get- ting ready for our passage across the Pacific Ocean.
26. Spanish Officers from both ships, together with 'Capt. Ingraham, dined on board the Columbia. Fired, on their coming, and going away, two Foederall salutes.
27. Saild the Princessa for Nootka sound. 190 Ships crew are all in prime health. Natives constantly visit us, but they do not like the Spaniards.
187 Ingraham had a contrary opinion. In his journal under date 28th Septem- ber, 1792, he writes. "It is 5 points of the compass open to the sea from WNW to NEW so that it is almost as bad as being in the centre of the straights and I much wonder how the Princessa road out 7 months in safety in such a place especially as the bottom is very rocky in forming a new settlement I should suppose a good Harbour was the first and most materiall thing to be sought for."
1 88 Ingraham describes it thus: "The settlement consisted only of a few Huts and a tollerable good garden."
189 Ingraham states that when he and Mr. Hoskins of the Columbia visited Quadra the latter was much vexed that the Americans had not sent their boats to his assistance on the preceding evening. Satisfactory explanations were, how- ever, made and, with the assistance of the Americans, the Acteva was towed into safe anchorage. He expresses in his journal great sorrow that anything having even the semblance of inattention or neglect to one who had been so kind to them should have happened.
too The Spaniards were now, on instructions from Quadra, abandoning Nunez Gaona as they called the settlement at Neah Bay. It had only been established in the preceding March. Fidalgo, who was its commandante was sailing to Nootka to take over the command at that place, superseding Camaano, who had been left in charge. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 331
28. This day sold the Sloop Adventure to the Spanish Gov- ernor, for 72 Prime Sea Otter Skins, worth 55 Dollars each in Canton, which is equal to 4960$., which at 50 per Ct. advance home, is 7440 Spanish Piasters, a good price. He wanted her as a present to the Viceroy of Mexico. Before delivery we took out all her provisions and stores, with a New Cable and Anchor.
29. Saild this day the Brig Acteva and Sloop Adventure, under Spanish Colours, bound to Acapulco. We saluted on their departure with 9 Guns which was return'd.
30. Weigh'd and saild from Port Near, bound across the Straits for a Cove, call'd by us Poverty. 191 Same evening anchor'd, in 7 fathom. Found this harbour much snuger for our business. The Indians brought a few Skins and plenty of fish and some train oil, which last article we much wanted.
October 1. Employ'd wooding and watering and getting the Ship in order. Cut many spare spars.
3. Weigh'd for the last time on the NW Coast, and left Poverty Cove, bound for Canton in China, via Sandwich Islands. Our feelings on this occasion are easier felt than described. Our friends at Home and ev'ry endearing Idea rush'd so full upon us, and made us so happy, that 't was impossible, for a while, to get the Ship in readiness for bad weather, and full allowance of Grog being serv'd on the occasion, made our worthy Tars join in the general Mirth and so we go.
N. Latt. 48 25' ; W. Long. 123 30'. At noon Cape Flattery bore East 7 leagues. Steering SW. Wind NE. Soon lost sight of the Mountains of North America.
9. N. Latt. 44 51'; W. Long. 128 34'; Amp'd 14 37' E.
11. N. Latt. 43 7'; W. Long. 129 5'; Amp'd 13 17' E. O <f. Pleasant weather. Wind at West. Ship's Crew in health.
16. N. Latt. 34 7'; W. Long. 138 6'; Azi. 10 58' E. Pleasant gales and fair weather.
17. N. Latt. 32 54'; W. Long. 138 42'; Azi. 11 46' E. Pleasant gales and fair weather.
191 Port San Juan, on Vancouver Island, just insidr the entrance of Juan de Fuca Strait. Captain Walbran, in a manuscript note, gives ita true position as lati- tude 48 2' north, longitude 124 jo' west. The Indian name wai Pachenat, but Haswell in his first LOB;, under date 29th March. 1789, records that Captain Gray, then in the W(uh**fto, named it Poverty Cove. ​
332 JOHN BOIT
21. N. Latt. 28 10'; W. Long. 142 24'; Azi. 10 0' E. Crew all in health, and wind and weather propitious. Took NE. Trade winds this day.
26. N. Latt. 20 15' ; W. Long. 150 39' ; Azi. 6 7' ; Amp'd 6 38' E. Warm and pleasant, with a smooth sea.
28. N. Latt. 20 5'; W. Long. 154 52' * 1 Spoke the Brig Fens, Capt. Duffan, 192 bound to Canton. The first lieu- tenant 193 of the Discovery, Capt. Vancoover, was a passenger on board this Vessell, bound home, with dispatches for Govern- ment.
SANDWICH ISLES. PACIFIC OCEAN
29. N. Latt. 20 14'; W. Long. 154 20'. Made the Isle of Owhyhee, 193 ^ one of the Sandwich Isles, where the famous Circumnavigator, Capt. James Cook was killed by the Natives. Standing towards the Isles, it having been seen at 15 leagues distant.
30. Hove to, for some Canoes, and purchased 11 Hogs from the Natives, and plenty of vegetables, such as Sweet Potatoes, Yams, tarro, etc. These Canoes was very neatly made, but quite narrow. The Outrigger kept them steady, or else, I think, they wou'd too easily upset in the Sea. The Men were fine stately looking fellows, and the Women quite handsome. They were all in a state of Nature, except a small covering round the middle. Not many of the Columbia's Crew prov'd to be Josepths. Run along very near the Isles, and hove to off Karakakoa Bay. Some double Canoes came alongside. These was suspended apart by large rafters, well supported. The Masts were rig'd between the canoes, and they carried their mat sails a long time, sailing very fast. The Shore was lined with people.
31. N. Latt. 20 14'; W. Long. 154 50'. Stood round the Island and haul'd into Toaj yah yah bay, 194 and hove to. Vast many canoes sailing in company with us. The shore made
192 The ostensible commander was a Portuguese, John de Barros Andrede, Duffin being but supercargo. Further investigation may show that, like Meares' vessels, she was merely masquerading under the Portuguese flag. The passenper referred to was Lieutenant Mudge of the Discovery, who was carrying to England an account of the abortive negotiations between Vancouver and Quadra. See Vancouver's Voyage, vol. 2, pp. 377-378, 8vo. ed. 1801.
103 Lieutenant Mudge? W. C. F.
193^ Hawaii. W. C. F.
J94 Kawaihae Bay? W. C. F. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 333
a delightful appearance, and appeared in the highest state of cultivation. Many canoes along side, containing beautiful Women. Plenty of Hogs and fowls, together with most of the Tropical fruits in abundance, great quantities of Water, and Musk, Mellons, Sugar Cane, Bread fruit, and salt was brought for sale. The price of a large Hog was from 5 to 10 spikes smaller ones in proportion. 6 Dunghill fowls for an Iron Chizzle, and fruit cheaper still.
November 1. This day, having on board 93 Hogs and great quantities of Fruits and Vegetables, we bore away from this enchanting Island bound to Onehow, 195 after more Yams and to put a Native on shore, which the Captain had taken from that Isle on his former voyage. Pass'd the Isles of Tahousa, 196 Rainai, 197 Mower, 19 * and Whahow, 199 left them to the North'd of us.
2. N. Latt. 21 59'; W. Long. 160 0' Pass'd Atooi, and steer'd for Yam bay in Onehow. In the morning was well into the bay. Vast many canoes off, in one of which was the Father and other relations of our Sandwich Island Lad. They came on board and the meeting was very affectionate, but still our Lad refused to go on shore and Capt. Gray did not think proper to force him. However made his friends many presents. Purchas'd some Hogs here, and great quan- titys of Cocoa Nuts, with a good lot of Nice line for Rising, etc.
3. Bore off and made all sail for the Coast of China, and soon lost sight of these beautiful Isles, the Inhabitants of which appear'd to me to be the happiest people in the world. Indeed there was something in them so frank and chearful that you cou'd not help feeling prepossess'd in their favour. 200
4. N. Latt. 19 56'; W. Long. 163 58' Pleasant NE. trade winds, with smooth sea. Crew all in health. Kill'd and salted 17 large Hogs. We followed Capt. Cook's plan, 201 by
^5 Niihau. W. C. F. i96Kahoolawe. W. C. F. i97Lanai? W. C. F.
198 Maui. W. C. F.
199 Oahu. W. C. F.
200 Boit changed his opinion some three years later; sec the entries from the log of the I'nion. reproduced in S. E. Morison's Boston Traders in Hawaiian Islands, Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. xii, pp. 168-9.
201 See its details in Cook's Third Voyage, vol. a, p. 135, 4to, ed. 1785, and rol. 2, p. 135. 8vo. ed. Dublin 1784..
Page 263, Massachusetts Historical Society. ​
334 JOHN BOIT
taking out the Bones, and laying the Meat, (after salting), between two Hatches, with a heavy Weight on them, through the Night and in the morning early, after a good examination, pack'd it away in Barrells, using strong pickle. This method answerd ev'ry purpose.
13. N. Latt. 15 49' ; W. Long. 185 25' ; E. Long. 174 35' ; Amp'd 13 23' E. Keep the people employ'd cleaning furs.
24. N. Latt. 15 50'; W. Long. 212 29'; E. Long. 147 31'; Azi. 9 56' E. This is pleasant sailing, have not experi- enced a squall since leaving the Islands, and the sea quite smooth, although a fresh NE. trade. Crew all well.
29. N. Latt. 18 24' ; W. Long. 226 15' ; E. Long. 133 45' ; Azi. and Amp'd 7 12' E. Sea grows more rough, and the weather a little squally.
BASHEE ISLES AND COAST OF CHINA. PAFIFIC
OCEAN
December 3. N. Latt. 20 30' ; W. Long. 232 28' ; E. Long. 127 32* O <T. This day, contrary to our expectation, we made the Bashee Isles, at 10 leagues distance to the Westward. Have experienced strong Currents in our favour, since leaving the Sandwich Isles. As we cou'd not weather, with the wind at NE., 't was thought best to run between Graf ton and Mon- mouth Isles, bore off accordingly.
4. Fresh breeze. At 6 P. M. we were between the Islands, doubled pretty near Grafton, and luffd close under the lea'd of Orange Isle. Saw a number of fires on the shore, but it was too dark to make any observations. When clear of the group hauld close on a wind for the Coast of China.
5. N. Latt. 21 48'; Correct W. Long. 239 29*; Correct E. Long. 120 31'; Azi. and Amp'd 2 41' W. 16 O O * <T <T. <L Sights. Saw the Island of Formosa, bearing EBN. at Mer- idian, 12 leagues. Fair NE. Monsoon.
6. N. Latt. 22 20'; W. Long. 243 38'; E. Long. 116 22'. Saw the Main land of China, bearing NW. 8 leagues, at Meridian above 100 sail of fishing boats in sight. Soundings 23 fathom sand and ouze.
7. N. Latt. 22 7'; W. Long. 244 57'; E. Long. 115 3'. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 335
Pass'd the Island, or rather Rock of Pedro Branca, (or Blanco), 202 ' 202 ** at Daylight. It was of a conical shape and ap- pear'd perfectly white. At Noon, the Grand Lema Island bore WSW., 5 leagues. Hundreds of fishing boats in sight. At 3 P. M. pass'd the Lema, leaving it on our larboard hand. At 6 got a Pilot on, board, who agreed to carry us to Macao roads, for 25 Dollars. Stood between the Lema Islands all night, with a light breeze.
MACAO ROADS. COAST OF CHINA
8. This morning early anchor'd in Macao roads, 14 fm. muddy bottom. Not liking our situation weigh'd and shifted our berth nigher to Macao, and anchor'd in 4y 2 fm. Mud. The Fort at Macao bearing S. 8 8' W. 4 miles, and the outermost of the Nine Isles N. 8 E. Capt. Gray went to Macao in the pinnace. A Black fellow came on board and inform'd us that Capt. Kendrick, in the Lady Washington, lay in Lark's Bay, 203 and that the Brig had been dismasted in the Chinese seas about two months before, in a Tuffoon, being again bound for the NW. Coast. Kendrick was refitting his vessell again.
9. Capt. Gray return'd on board, he inform'd us that Capt. Kendrick saild for the NW. in September last, in company with a small tender he had fitted in Macao. He was out four days when the Tuffoon overtook him. The Brig laid on her Beam ends for some time before they cut away the Masts. She then righted, and the gale abating steer'd for Macao. The whole surface of the sea was cover'd with the Wrecks of Chinese Boats, and many of the poor fishermen was still hanging to pieces of the Boats. Capt. Kendrick pick'd up above thirty of the poor fellows, and was obliged to pass a great many that he cou'd not assist. He arriv'd in Larks Bay, the 7th day after the Gale. 204 A Macao Boat came along side, with
303 Pedra Branca. W. C. F.
2O2Y> The Columbia is following the usual route from the Sandwich (Hawaiian) Islands to China. Meares says: "The land generally made on the coast of China is about Pedro Blanco or White Rock." Meares' Voyages, 410. ed., p. 57.
303 Lark's Bay sometimes called Dirty Butter Bay a small harbour lying three or four leagues southwest of Macao, the Portuguese settlement near the mouth of the Canton River. The object of lying there was to save the payment of duty on the cargo, as the bay was out of the reach of Chinese authority at that time; see Delano s Voyages, p. 43-
304 It is by such scattered references as this that, by degrees, the intensely interesting story of Kendrick is being pieced together. ​
336 JOHN BOIT
two European gentlemen, and purchas'd of us 21 pistale of Iron at 7$ per pistal. 205 A River pilot took charge for 40$ to take the Ship to Whampoa. 206
10. Weigh'd, with the wind at NE. early in the morning making slow progress ; in the evening anchor'd below Lintin bar, in 5 fathom. Next morning weigh'd and beat up to the Boca Tigris, 206 * and anchor'd in 17 fm.
CANTON RIVER, CHINA
12. This day arriv'd to our Moorings at Whampoa, having been obliged to beat the whole way from Macao roads. Found riding here 47 sail of European Ships, and six American Do. Capt. Gray went to Canton, in the pinnace. We lay'd at this place till the 2d of February, during which time we give the Ship a complete overhaul from her keel to the truck. We haul'd the Ship a shore, on Dutch Island beach, and graved. This business cost 150$ (paid to the Proprietors of the beach). The whole expence accruing to the Columbia at Canton amounted to the enormous sum of 7000 Spanish $. The other Furs were landed at Canton, and delivered to the Hong Mer- chants, for 90,000$, average 45 Dollars each. The Land furs sold quite low, in proportion.
The Ship was 1 laden with a full Cargo of Teas and Nanken with a small proportion of Sugar and China Porcelain. 'Tis the Custom in this place to engage with a Contractor to supply the Ship with provisions and other stores. They call them- selves Compadores. You must give them a certain Sum, gen- erally 150$ before they'll undertake. The first of these fellows that was engag'd run away with 250$ in our debt. This Money was advanced him previous to our having a Security Merchant ; otherways it wou'd have been recover'd. These security Mer- chants 207 ev'ry ship must have before they can transact business,
205 A picul, a common weight in the Orient and of 1331-3 pounds. See Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. xii, p. 170. Capt Cook called it a pecul, and says it contains one hundred catty aid that each catty is eighteen ounces. His pecul would thus be \\2 l /t pounds.
206 Sometimes spelled Wampu and in numerous other forms. It was the port of Canton and was situate on the Canton River on the opposite side from Canton and about ten miles below.
206 # Part of the estuary of the Canton River. See an illustration in M cares' Voyages, 4to. ed., p. n.
207 For remarks upon the method of carrying on this trade and the hamper- ing restrictions imposed on it by the Chinese Government, see Marchand's Voyage, vol. a, p. 96, et seq., 1801 ed., and also Dixon's Voyage, Letters xliv and xlv. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 337
as the government looks to them for the Amount of Duties. Capt. Gray generally staid at Canton and the Officers by turns, and ev'ry man on board had two Days liberty allowed him.
We had a building, made of Bamboo and Cover'd with Matts, nearly abreast the Ship on the Banks of the River. This was found by the Compadore and answer'd very well for to put the Ship's stores in while careening and loading. An Officer and gang of hands was station'd at this place, as a guard. There was two large boats station'd along side the Ship, with Customs house officers on board, the whole time we lay'd in the river. A family resided in each boat (they being com- pletely shelter'd). The Manderine had an apartment by him- self.
1793, January 1. Rec'd a letter from Capt. Kendrick, who inform'd us of the death of Messrs. Wood and Stodderd, two young men of Boston. I believe they liv'd too fast for the climate.
When we arriv'd at Whampoa there was upwards of a dozen fine Hogs on deck, which we had reserv'd for the Passage home. The Rasscles of the Chinese found means to throw them some poisinous stuff, which kill'd the whole of them. But we took notice as soon as they was thrown overboard they was eagerly seiz'd, and no doubt was feasted upon by the poor of the River; indeed nothing escap'd their clutches the Entrails of Poultry, or Dead Rats serv'd equally alike to appease these half starv'd wretches that constantly surrounds the shipping. However I always remark'd that they was very nice in their Cookery, and Rice was always a part of ev'ry Mess. No Indians we had ever visited during the Voyage was more complete in the Art of thieving than the Chinese of the lower order, on this River. And in fact they appear'd to me to be the greatest Villains in the Universe. (These remarks are only as respects the common people.) The Chinese Gen- tlemen is of a very different character, and indeed I was highly pleas'd with the polite attention shown to strangers at Canton, by the Mandarines and Merchants at that place ; indeed among themselves they appear to stand upon the nicest Etiquette. The Chinese merchant is very particular in his business, and ​
338 JOHN BOIT
very nice in his calculations, and no part of his affairs appear to be unnotic'd by him. In making a bargain they are very shrewd; when closed they are faithful as to quantity, but for quality you must be constantly on your guard or else 'tis certain the Goods will not turn out as expected, and the only satis- faction you will get from them is that you ought to have looked sharper, and at the same [time] will try to console you by this remark, that on another Voyage you will be better acquainted with the mode of doing business at Canton. Upon the whole, the Candour that is about the Chinese merchant makes some amends for the general complaint against them, that they will cheat you, if they can therefore your business is to see that they shall not.
"Tis surprizing to observe the business that is going on in the Suburbs of Canton; the streets are generally thronged with people, all busily engag'd in their several avocations ; the Shops well stock'd with Goods, and appear to meet with en- couragement. Few Women are to be seen. These (if Chinese) have the small crippled feet, the Ancle looking like an Horse's hoof. If Tarter, the feet is of the natural growth. So much has been said about Canton, and the Manners and Customs of the Chinese, that 'tis needless for me to make any further re- marks on the subject.
FROM CANTON TOWARDS THE STRAITS OF BANCA
February 2. This day the Pilot came on board and took charge. Unmoor'd and stood down the River. Left but 7 Ships behind, all English and Swedes.
4. Anchor'd this day below the Bars. Wind gradually in our teeth, work along with the tides.
6. Anchor'd just above the Boca Tigris; in the Night the Chinese rasscles cut the cable, although we kept a good watch. Let go another, and brought up. In the morning, the Buoy being taken away, cou'd not recover the Anchor. Therefore left it with 9 fm. Cable.
7. Pass'd the Boca Tigris, and stood for Macao roads.
8. Ran through Macao Roads, and stood to sea. The Pilot left us. Took a departure from the Macao Fort, it lying in ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 339
Latitude 22 13' North, and Longitude 113 S? East of London. Some Chinese junks in company. Find the Ship re- quires one Pump pretty steady to keep her free. However as it has been a steady leak for some time it is not look'd upon as a serious affair. The Wind prevails from the Easterly board, and is very squally.
The Ship's Crew are all well and hearty, and looking for- ward, with anxious solicitude, to a happy meeting of Sweet- hearts and Wives. How can we be otherways than happy, when anticipating the joys that awaits us there!! 208
9. N. Lat. 19 57'; W. Long. 246 39*; E. Long. 113 21'; Azi. 1 43' W. Wind at SE. Pleasant weather. Two Chinese Junks in company.
10. N. Lat. 19 35'; W. Long. 245 44'; E. Long. 114 16' ; Amp'd 43' W. Wind SS W. Junks in company. Very pleasant, light airs.
12. N. Lat. 17 31'; W. Long. 246 35'; E. Long. 113 25'. Azi. 48' W. Wind SE. and pleasant weather. See Boobies often.
14. N. Lat. 15 2'; W. Long. 246 14'; E. Long. 113 46'. Took the wind at NE., which I suppose is the Monsoon.
18. N. Lat. 9 44'; W. Long. 250 48'; E. Long. 109 12*. At Midnight saw a small Isle bearing SWBS. 1 league, and soon after see Pulo Sapata, bearing SEE. 2 leagues to the North'd. At 6 A. M. bore off and made sail. Wind ENE. Cou'd not weather Pulo Sapata. Pass'd two miles to the West- ward of it. When the Isle bore East, a large White Rock or Isle bore NNW., 6 or 7 leagues distant. At 9 was clear of Sapata, 208 * and see no dangers in the track we pursued, although I believe 't was quite an unfrequented one. This Sapata Isle is very properly named, as it has every appearance of a Shoe after which it is called in Malay. Bore off to the west'd with an intention of striking soundings off Pulo Condore. Pulo Sapata, Latitude is 10 4', and 109 10' E.
19. N. Lat. 8 4'; W. Long. 252 4'; E. Long. 107 56'.
208 The course of the Columbia from Canton to and through the StraiU of Sunda is that followed by the vessels of the day. Any one wishing details can find them readily in Dixon's Voyage and in Portlocfc's Voyage, and even in Captain Cook's Third Voyage.
See Captain Cook T s Third Voyage, 4to. ed. 1785. vol. 3, p. 449. and 8vo. ​
340 JOHN BOIT
Regular NE. Monsoon. Soundings at Noon 26 fathom, fine sand.
20. N. Lat. 6 9' ; W. Long. 252 46' ; E. Long. 107 14'. Soundings at Noon, 32 fm., fine sand.
21. N. Lat. 4 28'; W. Long. 253 23'; E. Long. 106 37'; Azi. 1 18' E. Soundings at Noon 45 fm., steady Monsoon.
22. N. Lat. 3 0'; W. Long. 255 5'; E. Long. 104 55'. The Islands of Pulo Timon, Aore, and Tissang 209 " 209 ^ in sight to the Southward. At Noon Pulo Aore bore SBW^ 10 leagues. Soundings 35 fathom.
23. N. Lat. 56'; W. Long. 254 20'; E. Long. 105 40'. Soundings at Noon 35 fm., Sand and Mud.
24. S. Lat. 44'; W. Long. 254 46'; E. Long. 105 14'. This day saw Pulo Taya to the westward. At Noon Pulo Taya 210 bore WNW. 6 leagues, the Seven Islands, SEE. Ex- perience a current to the Southward this 24 hours, the Mon- soon moderate.
25. S. Lat. 1 43'; W. Long. 255 9'; E. Long. 104 51'. Pass'd between Taya and the Seven Isles, distance from Seven Isles about 4 leagues. More Islands hove in sight to the SE. At Sunset saw land, which we took for Monopin Hill. Laid off and on through the Night under short sail. Soundings from 8 to 16 fathom. At daylight Monopin Hill bore SEE, 7 leagues. Bore off. At Meridian Monopin Hill bore E^N and the Sumatra shore WSW., the ship nearest the Banca Shore, 211 strong currents to the Southward. Soundings 18 fathom.
STRAITS OF BANCA
26. S. Lat. 2 43'. Enter'd the Straits of Banca, and stood to the SE. At 5 P. M. Monopin Hill bearing NNW, the Ship being y? nearest to the Banca shore from Sumatra on. We
ed. 1784. Dublin, vol. 3, p. 449. See also Dixon's Voyage, 2nd ed. 1789, p. 323.
209 These are evidently the islands mentioned by Captain King as Pulo Timoan, Pulo Puisang and Pulo nor. See Cook's Third Voyage, vol. 3, p. 465, et seq.
20954 Tioman, Aor and Pemangil or Tingy? W. C. F.
210 Saya. W. C. F.
211 In Marchand's Voyage, vol. 2, p. i, among the plans and sketches, will be found one showing the tracks of -ome eight ships through the straits between Banca and Billiton. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 341
shoal'd the water very sudden from 10 to 3 fathoms, rocks, bore off to the South and West, and soon deep'd it again. This must have been on the Fredrick Hendrik Shoal.
In the evening came to on the Sumatra shore, 9 fm. Mud, strong tides. 3d point bore EBS. 2 leagues.
At daylight got under way, and stood down straits. At 10 abreast the Nanka Isles, a number of Malay proas in sight. At 11 A. M. a dangerous shoal bore West 1 league, high breakers. At Noon obsen/d as above. 1st pt. bore SBE. 4 leagues.
27. S. Lat. 4 21'; W. Long. 253 43'; E. Long. 106 17'
C. Winds from NW. and pleasant. At 2 P. M. pass'd a Moorish Sloop, at anchor. She was strongly man'd and arm'd.
1 believe she was a Pirate. Many Proas about. At Sunset the Isle of Lucepara bore SEBE 3 leagues, and 1st point on Sumatra, SWBS. Pass'd nearest to the Sumatra Shore, the shoalest water 4 l / 2 fm. and when through deep'd it to 12 and 14 fm. A strong tide in favour. At Noon observ'd as above.
28. S. Lat. 4 39'; W. Long. 253 50'; E. Long. 106 10* * <T. Depth of Water, from 10 to 14 fm. throughout these 24 hours. Wind from the West'd, and very dark weather. Bound towards the Straits of Sunda.
March 1. S. Lat. 5 9'. At sunset see the Two Sisters 212 Isles to the Southward, wind to the SW. and very light. Sound- ings from 12 to 14 fm. At dark came to off the Sumatra shore, at 2 l / 2 leagues distant, 9 l /2 fm. Mud. In the morning got under way. At Noon observ'd Lat. as above, the Sisters bearing SSE. 2 miles.
2. S. Lat. 5 25'. Wind at West. Soundings throughout the 24 hours from 12 to 15 fm. Found these Isles of Sisters to be surround'd with Dangerous Reefs. In the evening came to in 12 fm. Muddy bottom. Hogs point on Sumatra in sight bearing South 11 leagues, and North Island SWBS^W. In the morning weigh'd and stood towards North Isle. At Noon observ'd as above.
AT NORTH ISLE AND STRAITS OF SUNDA
3. Winds moderate and cloudy, working towards North
aia Two Brother*? W. C. F. ​
342 JOHN BOIT
Isles Roads. At sunset came to in the Roads, 15 fm. muddy bottom. Pass'd several Turtle and Water Snakes between the Sisters and our anchorage. The two ships shew English Colours. In the morning early shifted our berth nearer the watering place, and at 7 A. M. anchor'd in 15 fm. Hoisted out all the Boats, and dispatch'd them for water. The ships that lay in the Road was an English 64, Capt. Gore 213 and the Indostan India Company Ship, Capt. Mackintosh. The Lion had on board Mr. Macartney, 214 a Minister from the British Government to the Court of Pekin. We took Dispatches for them to leave at St. Helena. Towards evening these ships sail'd for Batavia. Two Dutch Guard of Coasters anchor'd in company with us. By night we had fill'd up all our water and purchas'd a good quantity of Poultry and Fruit of the Malays at the Beach. I landed, with the charge of our boats, found above 200 Malays round the watering place. They was completely arm'd, with Creases, (or Daggers), but was quite friendly. However I did not allow the Boats to touch the beach and only let 6 men beside myself land, and swam the water casks off to the boats, when fill'd. This method I thought but prudent, as the Malays had kill'd one of the Lion's crew, while washing cloaths at the brook. I cannot say that I experi- enced the most agreeable sensations while on this duty.
4. Employ'd variously. Got a good quantity of Wood from North Isle. The watering place being on Sumatra, we see no Natives on North Isle.
5. Weigh'd and sail'd from North Island Roads, bound through Sunda Straits, pass'd the Qepthan Isles and Stroon Rock, upon which was high breakers. Pass'd it on the lar- board hand. At Meridian Crackatoa Isle bore SSW. 4 miles, sounding 20 fm. St. Tamanies Isle NNE. Wind SSW.
6. S. Lat. 6 2'. Wind from SW. to NW. and very squally weather, with heavy rain. Turning to windward between Princes Island and Crokatore and in the Night came very near depositing the Ship on the Qu Klip rocks. However good luck prevail'd. Crew all in health.
7. S. Lat. 6 39'. At Meridian Princes Isle bore East and
213 Erasmus Gower. W. C. F.
214 George Macartney, Earl Macartney (1737-1806). W. C. F. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 343
Java Head ESE. 5 leagues. Wind from NVV. Stood to the southward.
8. S. Lat. 7 13'; W. Long. 255 36'; E. Long. 104 24'. Steady NVV. Monsoon and pleasant.
9. S. Lat. 8 4'; W. Long. 255 47'; E. Long. 104 13'; Amp'd 1 24' East. Wind WSW. and squally weather.
13. S. Lat. 10 47' ; W. Long. 257 40' ; E. Long. 102 20' O <T. This day took the SE. trade winds after having experi- enced the NW. Monsoon quite variable from SSW. to NNW., and weather much unsettled, with plenty of rain and a con- tinual swell from the Southward. Many Boobies about us.
20. S. Lat. 15 32'; W. Long. 270 16'; E. Long. 89 44'; Azi. 1 54' E. This is an uncommon Variation for the place. Have had fine weather since taking the SE. Trades.
27. S. Lat. 17 1'; W. Long. 280 57'; E. Long. 79 3'. Have had the wind from the west'd these three days past, with squally weather. This day it drew to the SE. again. Caught several Dolphin.
30. S. Lat. 16 32' ; W. Long. 286 5' ; E. Long. 73 55' ; Azi. 4 38' W. Pleasant SE. Trade winds.
April 1. S. Lat. 16 55'; W. Long. 289 25'; E. Long. 70 35'; Azi. 7 36' W. Have experienced a little Thunder and Lightning, for several days at intervals.
3. S. Lat. 18 52* ; W. Long. 295 0' ; E. Long. 65 0' ; Azi. 14 0' W. Fresh trades and Hazy weather.
SAW THE ISLE OF RODERIGUE AND MAURITIUS. SOUTHERN OCEAN
4. S. Lat. 19 37' ; W. Long. Corrected 297 10* ; E. Long. 62* 50' O (. This day made the Isle of Roderigue bearing SW. The Ship having experienced a current to the West'd since leaving the Straits of Sunda. Found this Island to be surround'd with dangerous Reefs the one on its NW. extends many miles into the Sea.
5. S. Lat. 19 44'; W. Long. 299 11'; E. Long. 60 49/; Azi. 10 4' W. Amp'd 9 58' W. Wind from the south'd and pleasant.
7. S. Lat. 20 36'; W. Long. 302 19'; E. Long. 57 41'. ​
344 JOHN BOIT
Saw the Isle of France at daylight. At noon the South pt. of Mauritius bore WNW, 8 leagues, very high uneven land.
8. S. Lat. 21 36'; W. Long. 303 38'; E. Long. 56 22'. Pleasant trade winds. Saw the Isle of Bourbon. At noon it bore NW. 10 or 12 leagues. Exceeding mountainous.
10. S. Lat. 24 4'; W. Long. 307 55'; E. Long. 52 5'; Azi. 18 51' W. Fresh SE. trades and squally. Crew all well.
14. S. Lat. 28 2'; W. Long. 315 59'; E. Long. 44 1'. Azi. 22 25' <T O *. Wind still at SE. and pleasant weather.
17. S. Lat. 30 41' ; W. Long. 323 44' ; E. Long. 36 16' O <T. This day the SE. trades left us, and immediately took the wind from NW.
19. S. Lat. 29 3?; W. Long. 325 49'; E. Long. 34 11'; Azi. and Amp'd 23 50' W. O <T O * 16 O <L Sights. Wind at SW. and pleasant cool weather. Current setting to the NE.
21. S. Lat. 29 37'; W. Long. 326 48'; E. Long. 33 12'; Azi. 25 30' W. Wind from west, and pleasant.
23. S. Lat. 31 11'; W. Long. 328 20'; E. Long. 31 40'; Azi. and Amp'd 27 56' W. Wind from the Eastward. Ex- perience a strong current setting to the North.
28. S. Lat. 33 58'; W. Long. 336 13'; E. Long. 23 47'; Amp'd 28 28' W. Have had much blowing weather for some time. This day saw the land about Muscle Bay, 215 at 11 leagues distance. At Noon Cape Talhado bore NW. The cur- rent has changed, and now sets strong to the SW. Wind from the Westward.
OFF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE
29. S. Lat. 34 12'; W. Long. 337 6'; E. Long. 22 54'. Soundings 45 fm. Black sand, 2y 2 leagues from land, many smoakes on shore. At Noon the land in sight bore from North to ENE., a strong current in favour. Wind right a head.
30. S. Lat. 34 22'; W. Long. 338 3'; E. Long. 21 57' O <T. Many Gannetts and some seals round. Pass'd Cape St. Brass, saw the 7 Hills, and a number of Fires on the shore through the Night. Generally keep about 5 leagues from the Coast. Wind a head. So ends.
215 Mossel Bay. W. C F. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 345
May 1. S. Lat. 34 49* ; W. Long. 340 9 f ; E. Long. 19 51' ; Amp'd 25 18' W. Land at 10 leagues distance, 75 fm. sand and shells. A current to the S & W.
2. S. Lat. 34 29/; W. Long. 340 27'; E. Long. 19 33'; Azi. 26 24' W. Wind steady from the Westward, not even allowing us a tolerable slant. Sounding 54 fm. grey sand with shells. Keep an offing generally of about 6 or 7 leagues, the land very mountainous in our present situation. At Noon the land 5 leagues distance, 57 fm., fine grey sand and shells.
3. S. Lat. 34 32*; W. Long. 337 30'; E. Long. 22 3CX O <t. Fresh gales, employ 'd working to windward.
4. S. Lat. 35 1'; W. Long. 340 0'; E. Long. 20 (X O . At length, thank God, the wind changed to the Eastward, made all sail, haul'd more to the Southward to clear Cape Lagullas. 316
5. S. Lat. 34 40'; W. Long. 340: 30'; E. Long. 19 30' O <f. Saw the Table land and Gunners Quoin to the East of False Bay. At Noon Cape Point bore NW'd 10 leagues. Wind SE. Bore off to the Xorth'd and West'd.
9. S. Lat. 31 29/; W. Long. 344 39'; E. Long. 15 21'; Azi. 22 0' W. Wind from the Westward.
10. S. Lat. 30 24' ; W. Long. 346 28' ; E. Long. 13 3? ; Azi. 21 40' W. Wind at SW. and fair weather. Crew all in health.
13. S. Lat. 27 7'; W. Long. 350 52'; E. Long. 9 8'; Amp'd 20 34' W. O . Winds still from SW to NW.
16. S. Lat. 24 27'; W. Long. 353 1'; E. Long. 6 59'; Azi. & Amp'd 20 26', 19 22* W. O * . Winds steady from the Westward.
17. S. Lat. 24 27'; W. Long. 353 16'; E. Long. 6 44'; O <[. Amp'd 20 30'. Tight winds for men in a hurry, steady at NW.
20. S. Lat. 20 9' ; W. Long. 357 3' ; E. Long. 2 57'. This day took the SE. trade winds box'd her away for St. Helena.
21. Pass'd the Meridian of London.
ST. HELENA ISLAND
25. S. Lat. 15 54'; W. Long. 5 46'. Saw the Island of St. Helena at Sunset. Hove to for the night. Early in the
~~Ti6 AunM. W. C. F. ​
346 JOHN BOIT
morning sent a boat in to ask permission of the Governor to anchor in the Bay. At 9 the Boat return'd, and the officer reported favorably. Bore off, and at 10 anchor'd in Chapell Vally bay, in 14 fm. mud and sand, the Church bearing SE. Found riding here several English India and Whale Ships waiting for Convoy. At this place we first heard of the War and troubles in Europe, and that poor Louis was a head shorter. Capt. Gray landed to visit the Governor. Employ'd watering. The Lieutenant Governor (by name Robinson) paid us a visit. He appear'd to be an excellent man and was anxious to obtain curiositys from us, to put in his Museum. He appear'd grati- fy'd with the Collection that was present'd him. I must con- fess that I was agreeably surpriz'd on landing at James Town, for from the appearance it has from the Ship at anchor you feel prepossessed against it, but to me, when on shore, 'twas quite a pleasant place, and the sight of an English Lady made my heart feel all in an uproar and alas! the poor Sandwich Isle Girls were entirely forgot. So it is, and we cannot help it.
26. S. Lat. 15 54'; W. Long. 5 46'. Finish'd watering, and got ready for sea. I made an excursion in company with a Brother Officer to view the Company's Garden, and was amply rewarded for my trouble. 'T was kept in fine order. St. Helena had been visited by a famine, not long since, which carried off the greatest part of their stock and greatly dis- tress'd the inhabitants. Consequently cou'd not procure much refreshments for the Ship.
The Island to the windward makes a most rugged appear- ance, and indeed in the Bay 't is not much mended but to leeward 'tis quite pleasant and the roads though the work of Art cheifly are far from being bad. The Inhabitants are very polite to strangers, and in short no Man after a long voyage ought to pass this pleasant and agreeable place with- out stopping. You get the Water with great ease, as its con- vey'd to the Port by pipes under ground. You fill with a Hose, and are not oblig'd to take the Casks from the Boat, but in case you do, there is a Crane on the pier to load with. Shou'd have sail'd this evening but 'tis against the rules of the Port to sail after sunset. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 347
BOUND FOR BOSTON
27. S. Lat. 15 34' ; W. Long. 6 15'. Saild at daylight, and stood to the NW., with pleasant sensations enough at what awaits us in that direction.
28. S. Lat. 14 33' ; W. Long. 7* 14' Azi. 12 6' W. O 1 Pleasant trade winds and fair weather.
June 3. S. Lat. 8 3?; W. Long. 15 9* O * . Azi. & Amp'd. 11 2* W., 10 50' W. Pass'd the Isle of Assencion about midnight, at 2 miles distance.
7. S. Lat. 1 22*; W. Long. 22 10'. Azi. 11 38' W. O . Plenty of fish about the Ship, and a few Birds.
9. N. Lat. 1 10' ; W. Long. 22 e 33' ; Amp'd 7 41' W. * . This is the fourth time the Equator has been cross'd during the Voyage.
16. N. Lat. 6 0'; W. Long. 30 38'. Azi. 6 48' W. O . Dull times. Winds very light and baffling.
20. N. Lat. 7 28' ; W. Long. 33 26' ; Variation 2 26' W. O <f. This day took the NE. trade winds, having lost the SE. trades in Lat. 4 30' North. Winds between have gen- erally been from the West'd but very light.
22. N. Lat. 9 58' ; W. Long. 36 49* ; Azi. 2 26' W. Pleas- ant trade winds. Employ'd painting ship, etc.
24. N. Lat. 12 38' ;' W. Long. 41 0'; Amp'd 3 7' W. Pleasant trade winds. Employ'd painting ship, etc.
27. N. Lat. 17 55'; W. Long. 46 36'; Azi. 4 36' W. Generally fresh winds. No Birds, or Fish.
30. N. Lat. 22 11'; W. Long. 51 2'; Azi. & Amp'd 3 10' W.
o <r
16 O < Sights
Gentle trades and fair weather. Several sail pass'd at a dis- tance.
July 2. N. Lat. 24 29'; W. Long. 53 11'; Azi. 2 46' W. O <T Spoke an English Brig, under American colours, from New London, bound to Grenada, loaded with stock. Was oblig'd to fire several shot a head of him before he wou'd stop. Purchas'd out of her many Sheep Hogs etc., with two tierces ​
348 JOHN BOIT
Bread. This was quite a seasonable Supply, as we had been eating maggotty bread for this some time.
5. N. Lat. 25 33' ; W. Long. 56 13'. Spoke two Sloops from Portland for Guadal [oupe] .
8. N. Lat. 28 16'; W. Long. 59 35'; Variation 1 28' E. O <T. This day the NE. trade wind left us, took it from the Southward.
18. N. Lat. 40 17'; W. Long. 65 15'; Variation 14 55' W. O <T * <T. Spoke the Brig Betsey from New York, Wm. Williams Master, bound to Amsterdam. Have experienc'd much blowing weather from the North and West since leaving the Trades, and generally squalls of rain. Ship's Crew are all in health, but anxious to get home, as the Ship's provisions have grown quite bad and but little of it left.
20. N. Lat. 40 23'; W. Long. 67 51'; Azi. & Amp'd 12 17' W. Winds from the Northward.
21. N. Lat. 40 29'; W. Long. 68 35'; Azi. 7 16' W. Dull times for men in a hurry. The Columbia is in fine order, having given the rigging a complete overhaul since leaving St. Helena. Rounded to and got soundings 67 fm. fine black and white sand.
22. N. Lat. 42 11'; W. Long. 68 45'. At Sunset sounded, in 38 fm. gray sand. Spoke a Sloop from Newbury port, bound to the West Indies, told us Cape Cod bore NW. 30 leagues. At Midnight shoald our water pretty sudden, from 20 to 15, 12, 10 and 8 fm., fine white sand on Georges Shoal; hauld to the East and soon deep'd it again to 30 fm. At Noon Latt. as above, soundings in 40 fathom. Wind from the WSW. Hard luck.
24. Lower'd the yawl and sent her on board a fishing Schooner in sight to the west'd, it being nearly calm. At Sunset the boat return'd and Officer reported that the Skipper of the Schooner cou'd not spare any salt provisions, but sold us 3 Bar'l Salt Mackarell and about 300 Ship Biscuit. These last were very grateful. Divided them fore and aft among the Crew. A breeze sprang up from the Eastward pt., all sail, and at daylight saw Cape Cod bearing SW. at 6 leagues, and the Gurnett WBS, the land abreast us on the South Shore, 4 ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 349
leagues distance. Several sail in sight. Employ'd turning to Windward, the wind having shifted to the NW.
ARRIVED AT BOSTON
25. Light breezes and pleasant weather. At 1 P. M. nearly abreast of Cohassett Rocks, almost calm. At Sunset we had got too near to Hassett Ledges, by reason of the tide. How- ever a small breeze sprang up and we san'd off. At daylight Boston Light bore WBN. 3 leagues distant. At 8 A. M. a pilot came on board and took charge to take the Ship to Boston. At Meridian pass'd the Light house, with a light air from the Eastward. At 6 we pass'd Castle William, and gave a federal salute, which was return'd. A fine Breeze at SE. At 7 an- chored off the Long wharfe in the Stream and saluted the town, with 11 Guns which was return'd from the VVharfes. with three welcome Huzzas.
B^ 3 At making Boston Light, from which place we took our departure, we have just made 360 degrees of Longitude West, which is the Circumference of our Globe of course we have lost one complete day. It was Friday at Boston, and Thursday with us. Tis impossible to express our feelings at again meeting with our friends. But the loss of an affection- ate and much lov'd Sister, during my absence, was a great obstacle to the happiness I shou'd otherways have enjoy 'd.
So Ends the Remarks on Columbia's Voyage.
JOHN BOIT.
SUPPLEMENTARY NOTE ON THE IDENTIFICATION OP PORT TEMPEST AND MASSACRE COVE.
The identification of Port Tempest and Massacre Cove is a subject that has attracted much attention; many have tried to solve it, but none of these solutions have been accepted by the students of Pacific Coast history. Professor E. S. Meany has prepared a short but interesting note upon this difficulty, which will be found in the Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. xii, p. 15. In such cir- cumstances the identification of Port Tempest with the western end of Tongas* Narrows, or Revill.igigedo Channel, is offered with deference; it is not a case for dogmatizing; it is essentially a case in which reasons must be given for the faith which is held.
In this search Boit s journal is of little assistance; and Has well t Log unfor- tunately does not commence until August, just as the Columbia is preparing to leave the ill-fated shore. Hoskins. very fortunately, is quite full in bis account of the two spots and Brown's Sound in general. At the outset it must be prem- ised that the latitude and longitude of the early traders, with the single exception of Ingraham, are quite unsafe guides; the latitude is sometimes nearly right, the longitude, never. So, to, the distances, like those of the land traders, are only to be taken, in most cases, as approximations.
As Boil's journal shows, the Columbia left Cumshewa Inlet, Queen Char- lotte Islands, on ist August. Hoskins gives her courses thereafter; but Bolt's ​
350 JOHN BOIT
statement that she stood along the shore about three or four leagues from land shows that it was the mainland the depths he gives could not be gotten at that distance from the Queen Charlotte Islands' shore. Through Hecate Strait, up which she is sailing, there is a current of one to two knots in a northeasterly direction. Thick fog comes on and a heavy gale from the southeast, which con- tinue for two days, during which the Columbia beats to and fro. On the 3rd August the fog lifts, an indifferent observation is taken, and the ship is found embayed. This spot, it is suggested, was the stretch of water immediately to the eastward of Prince of Wales Island. Captain Gray then, says Hoskins, determined to stand "to the northward through what was supposed to be a strait between the continent and some islands." Upon the foregoing hypothesis this strait would be between Prince of Wales Island and the Gravina Islands. After being driven in that direction by the southeast gale for. three hours, land was seen in every direction but the westward; this means that in the fog Kasaan Bay, which lay ahead, seemed open water. The ship pursued her course and two hours later "the land was seen close aboard"; then a passage opened to the northwest. This, it is submitted, is Clarence Strait; but, being directly to leeward, it was thought unwise to enter it, and an effort was made to find a harbour on the weather shore. Reaching that shore the eastern iBoit says a small opening appeared, the Columbia made for it, and anchored under a point of land in Port Tempest. If the other suggested identifications be correct, this opening will be the western
Revillagigedo Channel is about 55 25' north and 131 45' west; the difference is no greater than is to be found over and over again in the journal, though the longitude is usually too far east.
Hoskins describes Brown's Sound, as the stretch of water in the neighborhood of Port Tempest was called. The above suggested site of Port Tempest fits his description exactly. After stating that the sound has many arms, ne proceeds to specify them; the geography of the suggested locality answers the requirements in an appealing and convincing manner. The first branch that Hoskins mentions is that upon which Port Tempest was situated; it trended east inclining to south as far as the eye could reach; this is Revillagigedo Channel. There was another arm extending to the north; this is Behm Canal. Then another running in a northwesterly course "up which the natives informed me was a village called Cahta"; this is Kasaan Bay, on which the Indian village of Cahta or Carta exists today. There was another arm leadin^ west northwest, in which the horizon was clear to the limit of vision, and which he took to be a strait; this is Clarence Strait. Finally there was another arm stretching to the west southerly, "up which I was informed by the natives was their village of Sushin"; this is "Choi- mondeley Sound, on which is the abandoned Indian village of Sushin or Sushan, Chasina or Chachina! Having disposed of the large branches, Hoskins adds that there were other smaller inlets; these are Baker Inlet, Skowl Bay, etc.
The general geography of the suggested site of Port Tempest bein~ thus shown to correspond with Hoskins' description, it will now be shown that the suggested spot fits also with the details that he furnishes. At Port Tempest, he tells us there were "also two small islands which afforded some little shelter"; and at the western end of Revillagigedo Channel is Guard Island, which is described in the Alaska Coast Pilot, 1883, p. 82, as "consisting of rocks uniting at low water two low, rocky, high-water islets, one west from and considerably larger than the other, and both bearing shrubs and a few trees." Vancouver also men- tions them as "two small islands with some trees upon them, S 40 W, half a league distant" from Point Vallemar. Voyage, vol. 4, p. 184, 8vo. ed. Again, Hoskins says that from Port Tempest "the land to the northward was about four miles and that to the southward one mile distant." Here also the geography agrees. From Guard Island, at the western entrance of Revillagigedo Channel, to Cape Camaano, the nearest land to the north, the distance is four and a half miles, and from that island to the western end of Gravina Island Point Vallemar, the nearest land to the southward is about two miles.
finally, in these small matters, Hoskins and Boit both mention the
At that distance lies Ward Cove. "A creek forming a small bank at its mouth falls in at the head of the cove"; Alaska Coast Pilot, 1883, p. 81. The method of fishing shows that the "river" was only a brook, for the men waded into the water, threshing it with long poles and scaring the fish down the fall, where they were gaffed with harpoons, boat hooks, etc.
Leaving the geographical portion of the subject, a word may be said ethno- graphically. The Indians met in the vicinity of Port Tempest, as Hoskins records, spoke the same language and had many of the customs of the natives of Queen Charlotte Islands. They were therefore plainly the Kaigani Haida, an intrusion into the Tlingit territory, occupying the southern part of Prince of Wales Island ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 351
and the adjacent archipelago. They came from the villages already mentioned. Sushin and Cahta, the most easterly and northerly residences of the Kaigani Haida. Hoskins tells of the visit of a strange Chief and of the terror which it inspired in the Kaigani Haida. This stranger was, of course, of the Tlingit stock; the boundary between the two peoples was only some thirty miles northerly from the spot now suggested as being Fort Tempest. This stranger spoke a language which the Americans could not understand; they had never met the Tlingit before, but had been confined to the Haida and the Tsimshean in the northern waters. It may be added that Vancouver had an exactly similar experience; see his Voyage, vol. 4, p. 225, 8vo. ed. 1801.
If Port Tempest be settled, there is no difficulty in locating Massacre Cove. Its exact position cannot perhaps be fixed, but its situation can, in a general way, be readily indicated. It was on the opposite, i. e., the western, side of Brown s Sound, as Boit's entry of 8th August shows. This would place it on the eastern shore of Prince of Wales Island. From it Port Tempest bore NEBN; in other words. Massacre Cove was SEBE from Port Tempest. This is borne out by the compass bearings in Boit's entry of Mth August. Massacre Cove therefore must lie between Cholmondeley Sound and Skowl Bay, perhaps about four miles south- erly from Island Point, the entrance of the latter. Boit's statement that the distance between Port Tempest and Massacre Cove is twelve leagues is an exag- geration; if these identifications are correct, the real distance, as the crow flies, is about ten or twelve miles.
These reasons lead to the position that Port Tempest is identical with the western end of Revillagigedo Channel. It is not urged that they conclusively settle the question. They are merely put forward as a contribution to the effort to solve a problem that, though small and unimportant, is attractive because of its very difficulties.
In conclusion I wish to acknowledge, gratefully, my indebtedness to Dr. C. F. Newcombe, of Victoria, B. C., for his assistance in working out this identification. His local knowledge of the region is invaluable.
NOTE I.
For the location of the villages of Cahta and Sushan I am indebted to Dr. C. F. Newcombe. of Victoria, B. C. I append a portion of a recent letter on this point. "With reference to Cahta and Sushan, I am in a different position, hav- ing visited both places. The present Cahta, now spelt Carta, is at the head of Kasaan Inlet on the East side of Prince of Wales Island, but no doubt in early days included the present Indian village of Kasaan, which is nearer the mouth of the Inlet. An early copy by Arrowsmith in the Provincial Library, dated Jan. ist, 1795, gives the name spelt Kada. Sushan is spelt in early days in several manners, as you will find by reference to "The Alaska Coast Pilot." It is right at the entrance of Cholmondeley Sound, and has long been deserted." ​
352 CAPTAIN ROBERT GRAY
REMNANT OF OFFICIAL LOG OF THE COLUMBIA
ANNOTATIONS BY T. C. ELLIOTT.
Text in Greenhow, 1848 Edition, p. 434.
Extract from the Second Volume of the LOG BOOK OF THE SHIP COLUMBIA, of Boston, commanded by Robert Gray, containing the Account of her Entrance into Gray's Harbor and the Columbia River.
May 7th, 1792 A. M. Being within six miles of the land, saw an entrance in the same, which had a very good appearance of a harbor ; lowered away the jolly-boat, and went in search of an anchoring-place, the ship standing to and fro, with a very strong weather current. At one P. M., the boat, returned, hav- ing no place where the ship could anchor with safety 1 ; made sail on the ship; stood in for the shore. We soon saw from our mast-head, a passage in between the sand-bars. At half past three, bore away, and ran in north-east by east, having from four to eight fathoms, sandy bottom ; and, as we drew in nearer between the bars, had from ten to thirteen fathoms, having a very strong tide of ebb to stem. Many canoes came alongside. At five, P. M., came to in five fathoms water, sandy bottom, in a safe harbor, well sheltered from the sea by long sand- bars and spits. Our latitude observed this day was 46 degrees 58 minutes north.
May 10th Fresh breezes and pleasant weather; many na- tives along side ; at noon all the canoes left us. At one, P. M., began to unmoor, took up the best bower anchor, and hove short on the small bower-anchor. At half past four, (being high water,) hove up the anchor, and came to sail and a beating down the harbor. 2
May llth. At half past seven, we were out clear of the bars, and directed our course to the southward, along shore. 3 At
1 This log makes no mention of the sending of a small boat ahead of the ship, either here or at the mouth of the Columbia river, which precaution is men- tioned by Mr. Boit in his journal. Neither does Capt. Gray mention any observations for longitude, as Mr. Boit does. For more extended comments see the Boit Journal printed herewith.
2 This entry indicates that Capt. Gray's anchorage was not far inside the entrance, but any attempt to designate it would be mere speculation. The pre- sumption is in favor of the bay behind one of the capes.
3 This entry written at evening on the nth, clearly states that the ship left Gray's Harbor on the evening of the loth. Boit erroneously puts the date as the nth. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 353
eight, P. m., the entrance of Bulfinch's Harbor bore north, distance four miles; the southern extremity of the land bore south-south-east half east, and the northern north-north-west; sent up the main top-gallant-yard and set all sail. At four, A. M., saw the entrance of our desired port bearing east-south- east, distance six leagues ; in steering sails, and hauled our wind in shore. At eight, A. M., being a little to windward of the entrance of the Harbor, bore away, and run in east-north-east between the breakers, having from five to seven fathoms of water. When we were over the bar, we found this to be a large river of fresh water, up which we steered. Many canoes came alongside. At one, P. M., came to with the small bower, in ten fathoms, black and white sand. 4 The entrance between the bars bore west-south-west, distant ten miles; the north side of the river a half a mile distant from the ship; the south side of the same two and a half miles' distance; a village on the north side of the river west by north, distant three quarters of a mile. Vast numbers of natives came along- side; people employed in pumping the salt water out of our water-casks, in order to fill with fresh, while the ship floated in. So ends.
May 12th. Many natives alongside; noon, fresh wind; let go the best bower-anchor, and veered out on both cables ; sent down the main-top-gallant-yard ; filled up all the water-casks in the hold. The latter part, heavy gales, and rainy, dirty weather.
May 13th. Fresh winds and rainy weather; many natives along-side ; hove up the best bower-anchor ; seamen and trades- men at their various departments.
May 14th. Fresh gales and cloudy ; many natives alongside ; at noon, weighed and came to sail, standing up the river north- east by east; we found the channel very narrow. At four, P. M., we had sailed upwards of twelve or fifteen miles, when the channel was so very narrow that it was almost impossible to keep in it, having from three to eighteen fathoms water, sandy bottom. At half past four, the ship took ground, but
4 This anchorage, V, mile off shore between Pi Ellice and McGowani Station. wu exposed to the wind and current, which fact partly explains the use of more than one anchor and the determination to move further up the river two dajre liter. ​
354 CAPTAIN ROBERT GRAY
she did not stay long before she came off, without any assist- ance. We backed her off, stern foremost, into three fathoms, and let go the small bower, and moored ship with kedge and hawser. The jolly-boat was sent to sound the channel out, but found it not navigable farther up; so, of course, we must have taken the wrong channel. So ends, 5 with rainy weather ; many natives alongside.
May 15th. Light airs and pleasant weather; many natives from the different tribes came alongside. At ten, A. M., un- moored and dropped down with the tide to a better anchoring- place ; smiths and other tradesmen constantly employed. In the afternoon, Captain Gray and Mr. Hoskins, in the jolly-boat, went on shore to take a short view of the country.
May 16th. Light airs and cloudy. At four, A. M., hove up the anchor and towed down about three miles, with the last of the ebb tide ; came into six fathoms, sandy bottom, the jolly-boat sounding the channel. At ten, A. M., a fresh breeze came up the river. With the first of the ebb-tide we got under way, and beat down the river. At one, (from its being very squally,) we came to, about two miles from the village, (Chinook) which bore west-south-west ; many natives alongside ; fresh gales and squally. 6
May 17th. Fresh winds and squally; many canoes along- side; calkers calking the pinnace; seamen paying the ship's sides with tar ; painter painting ship ; smiths and carpenters at their departments.
May 18th. Pleasant weather. At four in the morning, began to heave ahead; at half past, came to sail, standing down the river with the ebb tide; at seven, (being slack water and the wind fluttering,) we came to in five fathoms, sandy bottom ; the entrance between the bars bore south-west by west, distant three miles. The north point of the harbor bore north-west,
5 This day Capt. Gray proceeded around Point Ellice and past Cliff Point and Knappton as far as some sand bar in the shallow waters off the wide entrance to Gray's Bay. presumably more than half the distance across the entrance to that bay. By soundings from his small boats he then discovered that the deep water channel crossed the river above him, from Harrington's Point to Tongue Point, and that his ship was not in a safe place, and he therefore dropped down the following morning to a better anchorage off Point Gray (Frankfort).
6 Today the ship again dropped down stream, first to anchor opposite Knapp- ton and later to the upper or lea side of Point Ellice, where she remained until the 1 8th. ​
LOG OF THE COLUMBIA 355
distant two miles ; the south bore south-east, distant three and a half miles. At nine, a breeze came up from the eastward ; took up the anchor and came to sail, but the wind soon came flut- tering again ; came to anchor with the kedge and hawser ; veered out fifty fathoms. Noon, pleasant. Latitude observed, 46 degrees 17 minutes north. At one, came to sail with the first of the ebb tide, and drifted down broadside, with light airs and strong tide; at three quarters past, a fresh wind came from the northward ; wore ship, and stood into the river again. At four, came to in six fathoms ; good holding-ground about six or seven miles up ; many canoes along side. 7
May 19th. Fresh wind and clear weather. Early a number of canoes came alongside ; seamen and tradesmen employed in their various departments. Captain Gray gave this river the name of Columbia's River, and the north side of the en- trance Cape Hancock, the south, Adams's Point.
May 20th. Gentle breezes and pleasant weather. At one, P. M. (being full sea,) took up the anchor, and made sail, standing down the river. At two, the wind left us, we being on the bar with a very strong tide, which set on the breakers ; it was now not possible to get out without a breeze to shoot her across the tide; so we were obliged to bring up in three and a half fathoms, the tide running five knots. At three quarters past two, a fresh wind came in from seaward; we immediately came to sail, and beat over the bar, having from five to seven fathoms water in the channel. At five, P. M., we were out, clear of all bars, and in twenty fathoms water. 8 A breeze came from the southward ; we bore away to the north- ward ; set all sail to best advantage. At eight, Cape Hancock bore southeast, distant three leagues; the north extremity of the land in sight bore north by west. At nine, in steering and top-gallant sails. Midnight, light airs.
May 21st. At six, A. M., the nearest land in sight bore east-south-east, distant eight leagues. At seven, set top-gallant-
7 This dy Cpt. Gray sailed down stream with the intention of crowing out, but, because of unfavorable conditions, returned up river again to an anchor- age off Chinook Point (Fort Columbia), which was a very favorable spot for observing the capes and the entrance.
8 Good-bye to "Columbia's River." after a narrow escape from disaster upon