# Forty Years On The Pacific/The Gilbert Islands

THESE islands, or atolls, as they are generally called, are scattered about the Equator, some to the north and some to the south, the total area being about 170 square miles. Atolls are of coral formation, but a few feet above the level of the sea, in some cases covered with a thin layer of rich soil which produces in good seasons abundance-of cocoanuts and other palms, breadfruit, taro and other coarse roots. The atolls chain fashion are linked together, making circular or horseshoe shapes surrounding lakes of deep water called lagoons, and these lagoons may be a mile to fifty miles apart, and 10 to 100 miles in circumference. It is remarkable that these low set, scantily clothed atolls are densely populated and by one of the most promising and vigorous of the Pacific races, accounted the "giants of the Pacific" they are so tall and muscular. The native population is equal to 40,000; the white population, consisting of Government officials, missionaries and traders, would hardly be more than 200.
These islands, with the Ellice group, were formed into a Protectorate by the British in 1893, and then in 1915 with Ocean Island and some other smaller islands and groups to be found about the Equator, the lot was declared the Crown Colony of the Gilberts and Ellice.
In 1890 the Gilbert islanders were noted for their cruelty and blood-thirstiness, and their persistent wars with neighboring islands. In those days, too, they were abducted and taken off in hundreds to the mines of South America, but few returning. The contact with the white man of the blackbirding and the "Bully Hayes" (the notorious Pirate of the Pacific) types, resulted in the introduction of shocking and decimating diseases, and quickly this vigorous race dwindled almost to extinction, despite the heroic and energetic labors of the missions. Then British officials came to the work of rescue, and to-day their efforts are crowned by a success that could not have been thought possible. The finest native hospital—it is really a large village—in the Pacific islands has been built at Tarawa, the chief Government station of the Gilberts, and the people are encouraged to come from all atolls to receive medical attention. The staff of the hospital consists of a highly credentialed European doctor, assisted by his wife, also a qualified doctor—a Fijian, Dr. P. Sowani, renowned for his work in surgery—a white matron and a very large staff of native men orderlies and women nurses, including several half-caste women especially trained in midwifery and the care of children. Whole families at times take up their abode in the large, cool, native huts distributed about the beautiful grounds of the hospital, and they want for nothing. The hospital is a public institution maintained out of the revenues derived from the annual sale of the native copra, and so patients are not worried by hospital fees.
This humane and successful treatment of the people is resulting in a fine, wholesome race, and a very fast increasing population. A decided factor in this healing and the excellent health of the islanders is the assistance given to the officials by the natives themselves, through their honest and keen interpretation of a class of self-government allowed them by the Administration. It is said these people have a talent for self-government, inasmuch as they look to do things wisely, progressively and not with any selfish ideals of protecting themselves and their interests, with the ultimate idea of declaring the Gilberts independent of British rule. These shrewd natives realize the influence of, as they appreciate their security under, British protection, and in their selfgovernment they see that all regulations for the health of the people are strictly carried out, that work on the plantations (cocoanut) is faithfully performed, for most plantations are owned by the natives and few by white men, and that all dues to revenues from fines for misconduct of the breaking of regulations are collected and remitted to the authorities. There is a complete civil service, consisting of native magistrates, who hold their own courts, and fine and imprison for all minor and tribal offenses—the courts punish for serious misdemeanors, which are strikingly few—and the magistrates' scribes or clerks note all proceedings, make monthly reports, collect all moneys, and give officially signed receipts for every penny passed through their hands.
To support the magistrates, there is a very intelligent body of native police, also sanitary, jail and plantation officials, inspectors and a well-educated lot of interpreters. As an instance of the care with which this native self-government protects the health of the native and white population, it is proclaimed a serious offense for native householders to allow refuse to accumulate near their homes or along the beautiful roads which are to be found in the Gilberts.
All the native plantations are laid out after correct, well managed modern ideas, and grass, weeds or dead palms are not to be seen anywhere, with the result that though the Gilberts, like most of the islands of the central Pacific, are subject to long, severe droughts, the careful and scientific management of the cocoanut plantations is assuring a generous supply of the staple food. The officials, too, have taught the islanders the benefits of farming and vegetable and fruit growing, and thin as is the soil of the atolls they are cultivating many European fruits, vegetables and even cereals, and are making the periods of famine that once came too frequently to the drought-stricken islands almost impossible, and in time will, it is certain, by their superior knowledge, absolutely prevent famine.
These natives are all civilized nowadays, and many of them are receiving under Government support a good commercial education. In fact, the Administration has decided to found a college for the training of native civil servants, and wisely in these days insisting on all learning the English language. The native police gain emolument and promotion by their success in writing and speaking English.
Think of a people but 30 years ago cruel and aggressive, basely treated by infamous white men, decimated by horrible diseases, drunkards and capable of abominable crimes, and then see them in 1919, a splendid people, increasing in numbers, wholesome, sober, educated, progressive and carrying on with wonderful wisdom a self-government. The climate of the group, though hot, is healthy and there is no malaria.