# Sikhim and Bhutan

* London, Edward Arnold.
SIKHIM & BHUTAN
TWENTY-ONE YEARS ON THE NORTH-EAST FRONTIER
1887–1908
BY
J. CLAUDE WHITE, C.I.E.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAP
LONDON
EDWARD ARNOLD
Publisher to the India Office 1909 [All Rights Reserved]
TO
A. W. PAUL, Esq., C.I.E.
TO WHOM I OWE MUCH FOR THE
ASSISTANCE HE HAS ALWAYS
GIVEN ME IN MY WORK
CONTENTS
| CHAP. | | PAGE. |
| I. | THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION AND GENERAL FEATURES OF THE STATES OF SIKHIM AND BHUTAN | 1 |
| II. | THE PEOPLE: THEIR MORALS, RELIGION, AND LANGUAGE | 7 |
| III. | A SHORT HISTORY OF SIKHIM | 16 |
| IV. | EARLY REMINISCENCES |
| | First visit to Sikhim, 1887. The brothers Khangsa Dewan and Phodong Lama, the Shoe Dewan and Kazis. Return to Gangtak with the Entchi Column, 1888. First meeting with Their Highnesses the Maharaja and Maharani of Sikhim | 19 |
| V. | MORE EARLY REMINISCENCES |
| | My appointment to Sikhim. Departure of the Maharaja to Kurseong. Inspection of the country with Phodong Lama and Shoe Dewan. Opening up by means of roads and bridges. Sources of revenue. Mineral wealth. Visit to Yatung, so-called Trade Mart | 25 |
| VI. | MORE EARLY REMINISCENCES |
| | Building a house. Lepcha servants. Supplies. A garden party. The Residency garden. Roses and lilies. A wave of colour. Orchids. Visit to Tumlong. Worship of Kangchenjunga. Lama dance. Missionaries. Difficulties of travelling. Crossing the Teesta in flood. Landslips. Leeches | 33 |
| VII. | THE DELHI DURBAR AND VISIT OF THE CHIEFS TO CALCUTTA TO MEET THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS OF WALES | 45 |
| VIII. | EXPEDITIONS AND EXPLORATIONS IN SIKHIM |
| | From Gangtak over the Giucha-la to Ringen. Loss of a coolie. Camp amongst glaciers and moraines. A snow leopard. Alpine flowers. Avalanches and ice caves. Crossing a difficult gorge. Lepchas and wild bees. The Rungnu. Sakhyong | 53 |
| IX. | EXPEDITIONS AND EXPLORATIONS IN SIKHIM—continued |
| | From Gangtak to the Zemu glacier, Lonak Valley, Lachen and Lachung. Mr. Hoffmann. Cloud effects. Cane bridges. Hot springs. Talung Monastery and its treasures. Grazing land and Tibetan herdsmen. Yak transport. Locusts. The Sebu Pass. Snow-blindness. Lachung. Goral-shooting | 63 |
| X. | EXPEDITIONS AND EXPLORATIONS IN SIKHIM—continued |
| | Demarcation of the northern boundary between Sikhim and Tibet. Difficulties of transport. Mountain sickness. Survey work. Caught in a storm. Durkey Sirdar. Ovis ammon. Photographing the glaciers. A ride at 21,600 feet. Evidence of former size of the glaciers | 82 |
| XI. | DEPARTURE FROM SIKHIM | 94 |
| XII. | HISTORY OF THE FOUNDING OF BHUTAN | 99 |
| XIII. | MY FIRST MISSION TO BHUTAN |
| | From Gangtak to Tashi-cho-jong. Choice of routes. The Natu-la in bad weather. Deputation in the Chumbi Valley. Entering Bhutan. The Hah-la and Meru-la. Punishment for murder. Leather cannon. Paro. The Penlop’s wives. Paro-jong. Turner’s description. Eden’s description. Dug-gye. Weeping cypress at Chalimaphe. The quarrel between Ugyen Wang-chuk and Aloo Dorji. Murder of Poonakha Jongpen. Tashi-cho-jong | 105 |
| XIV. | MY FIRST MISSION TO BHUTAN—continued |
| | From Tashi-cho-jong to Tongsa-jong. Simtoka-jong. Entry into Poonakha. The Deb Raja. Presentation of K.C.I.E. Description of Poonakha Fort. Expedition to Norbugang and Talo Monasteries. Visit of the Tango Lama. So-na-ga-sa the Zemri-gatchie of Turner. Farewell visit to the Deb. Angdu-phodang. Death of my dog Nari. The Pele-la. Tongsa-jong. Bad roads. Water-power prayer-wheels. The ceremony of blessing the rice-fields | 137 |
| XV. | MY FIRST MISSION TO BHUTAN—continued |
| | From Tongsa-jong to Bya-gha, Lingzi, and Phari. Hospitality of the Tongsa and Tongsa’s sister at Bya-gha. Old monasteries near Bya-gha. Ancient traditions. Carvers and carpenters at the Champa Lhakhang Monastery. Regret at leaving Bya-gha. Lama dances. Farewell to Sir Ugyen. Reception at Tashi-cho-jong. Last interview with the Deb Raja. Ta-tshang lamas. Cheri Monastery. Magnificent scenery. Incorrect maps. Exposure of the dead to lammergeiers. View of Tibet from the Ling-shi Pass. Break-up of the Mission | 161 |
| XVI. | AN EXPLORATION OF EASTERN BHUTAN AND A PORTION OF TIBET IN 1906 |
| | From Gangtak viâ Dewangiri to Tashigong and Tashi-yangtsi, and on to Tsekang. Horse-flies. Dorunga. Cypripedium Fairianum. Sudden rise of the river. Tigers near the camp. Chungkhar. Borshang iron-mines. Tashigong. Stick lac cultivation. Suspension bridges. Source of the Dongma-chhu. Tashi-yangtsi. Prayer-wheels. Old roads. Chorten Kara. New flowering trees | 184 |
| XVII. | AN EXPLORATION OF EASTERN BHUTAN AND A PORTION OF TIBET IN 1906—continued |
| | From Tsekang to Lhakhang-jong. Lhalung Monastery and Pho-mo-chang-thang Lake to Gyantse. Crossing the Bod-la between Bhutan and Tibet. Riding yaks. Welcome in Tibet. Meeting with Sir Ugyen. Wild gooseberries. Old gold-workings. Friendliness of Tibetans. Lhakhang-jong. Tuwa-jong. Dekila, widow of Norbu Sring. Lhalung Monastery. Ovis ammon. Source of the Nyeru-chhu | 197 |
| XVIII. | MY SECOND MISSION TO BHUTAN |
| | Severe weather. Shau. A frozen torrent. Dug-gye-jong. A visit to Paro Ta-tshang Monastery. Sang-tog-peri. Paro-jong burnt down. Arrival at Poonakha. The Tongsa’s band | 211 |
| XIX. | MY SECOND MISSION TO BHUTAN—continued |
| | Installation of Sir Ugyen as Maharaja of Bhutan. Presentation of gifts. Tea ceremony. Oath of allegiance. Seal of the Dharma Raja. Chinese influence on the frontier. Christmas Day. Feeding the poor. Return of escort. Discussion of State affairs with Maharaja and council. I leave for Jaigaon. A Takin. Inspection of frontier. Wild animals | 224 |
| XX. | BRITISH MISSIONS TO BHUTAN |
| | Bogle, 1774. Hamilton, 1775 and 1777. Turner, 1783. Pemberton, 1838. Eden, 1864. White, 1905. White, 1907 | 237 |
| XXI. | BRITISH RELATIONS WITH BHUTAN FROM 1772 |
| | Nepalese invasion of Tibet, 1792. The Athara Duars. Friction with Bhutan. Our occupation of the Bengal Duars. Expedition against Bhutan. Loss of guns. Treaty of Rawa Pani. Whole of Duars taken by us. Tongsa Penlop accompanies expedition to Lhasa. Sir Ugyen’s visit to Calcutta. Sir Ugyen elected Maharaja | 264 |
| XXII. | FOREIGN RELATIONS WITH BHUTAN |
| | China. Tibet. Nepal. Sikhim. Cooch Behar | 285 |
| XXIII. | ARTS AND INDUSTRIES OF SIKHIM AND BHUTAN |
| | Chinese and Indian influence. Metal-work in Sikhim. Method of casting. Sikhim knives. Aniline dyes. Weaving school in Lachung. Carpet factory in Gangtak. Apple orchards in Lachung and Chumbi. Cheese and butter making. Bhutan metal-work. A wonderful pan-box. Beaten copper and silver work. Bells. Swords and daggers. Weaving. Needlework pictures. Basket-work. Influence of the feudal system. Inferiority of Tibetan work. Wood-carving in Sikhim, Bhutan, and Nepal | 294 |
| APPENDICES |||
| I. | THE LAWS OF BHUTAN | 301 |
| II. | THE LAWS OF SIKHIM AND MARRIAGE CUSTOMS | 311 |
| III. | A LIST OF SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL ANIMALS AND BIRDS TO BE FOUND IN THESE COUNTRIES, AND THEIR HABITAT | 322 |
| IV. | DESCRIPTIONS OF THE ART SPECIMENS ILLUSTRATED IN CHAPTER XXIII. | 325 |
| INDEX | INDEX | 327 |
ILLUSTRATIONS
| | | FACING PAGE |
| J. Claude White, C.I.E. (photogravure) | Frontispiece |
| The Source of the Teesta River (photogravure) | The Source of the Teesta River (photogravure) | 4 |
| H.H. The Maharani of Sikhim | H.H. The Maharani of Sikhim | 22 |
| The Residency, Gangtak | The Residency, Gangtak | 28 |
| Residency Garden, Gangtak | Residency Garden, Gangtak | 34 |
| Wallichianum Lilies in the Residency Garden | Wallichianum Lilies in the Residency Garden | 38 |
| Lower Teesta Valley | Lower Teesta Valley | 42 |
| Group at Hastings House, Calcutta, 1906 | Group at Hastings House, Calcutta, 1906 | 48 |
| Kangchenjunga | Kangchenjunga | 58 |
| Bamboo Roadway | Bamboo Roadway | 60 |
| Sanklan Sampo | Sanklan Sampo | 64 |
| Old Vestments, Talung Monastery | Old Vestments, Talung Monastery | 66 |
| Siniolchu (photogravure) | Siniolchu (photogravure) | 68 |
| Yaks | Yaks | 70 |
| Upper Lonak Valley (photogravure) | Upper Lonak Valley (photogravure) | 72 |
| Typical Sikhim Scenery | Typical Sikhim Scenery | 80 |
| Nuns from the Ta-tshang Nunnery | Nuns from the Ta-tshang Nunnery | 86 |
| Lonak Valley | Lonak Valley | 90 |
| Glacial Lake, Lonak Valley (photogravure) | Glacial Lake, Lonak Valley (photogravure) | 92 |
| Bridge over the Am-mo-chhu at Pema, in the Chumbi Valley (photogravure) | Bridge over the Am-mo-chhu at Pema, in the Chumbi Valley (photogravure) | 108 |
| Chorten at Gorina Monastery | Chorten at Gorina Monastery | 122 |
| Paro-jong | Paro-jong | 126 |
| Paro Ta-tshang Monastery | Paro Ta-tshang Monastery | 128 |
| Dug-gye-jong | Dug-gye-jong | 130 |
| Poonakha-jong | Poonakha-jong | 138 |
| Tongsa-jong | Tongsa-jong | 158 ​ |
| Bhutanese Houses | Bhutanese Houses | 186 |
| Lhalung Monastery | Lhalung Monastery | 198 |
| Tuwa-jong | Tuwa-jong | 202 |
| Interior of Lhalung Monastery | Interior of Lhalung Monastery | 206 |
| Interior of Dug-gye-jong | Interior of Dug-gye-jong | 212 |
| Bridge at Shana | Bridge at Shana | 214 |
| Paro Ta-tshang Monastery (photogravure) | Paro Ta-tshang Monastery (photogravure) | 218 |
| Group at Poonakha, 1908 | Group at Poonakha, 1908 | 222 |
| Oath of Allegiance signed at Poonakha at the Installation of Sir ||
| Ugyen Wang-chuk as Maharaja of Bhutan, 1907 | Ugyen Wang-chuk as Maharaja of Bhutan, 1907 | 226 |
| H.H. Sir Ugyen Wang-chuk, K.C.I.E., Maharaja of Bhutan | H.H. Sir Ugyen Wang-chuk, K.C.I.E., Maharaja of Bhutan | 234 |
| Impressions of Seals given to Bhutan by China, Nepal, and Tibet | Impressions of Seals given to Bhutan by China, Nepal, and Tibet | 286 |
| Art Specimens—I | Art Specimens—I | 294 |
| Art Specimens—II | Art Specimens—II | 296 |
| Art Specimens—III | Art Specimens—III | 298 |
| Art Specimens—IV | Art Specimens—IV | 300 |
| The illustrations facing pages 60, 64, 66, and 68 by the kind permission of Mr. Hoffmann. |||
| Map of Sikhim and Bhutan | At end |
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED
Tibetan Manuscript
The Lho-cho-jung
History of the Sindhu Raja
Bogle’s Mission, 1774
Turner’s Mission, 1783
Reports of Kishen Kant, 1815
Pemberton’s Mission, 1837
Griffiths’ Journal, 1837
Eden’s Mission, 1864
Rennie’s History of the Bhutan War
Macgregor’s Military Report on Bhutan, 1866
Aitcheson’s Treaties
Government Records
Sikhim Gazetteer
* I. B. December 1889.   Exd. J. A. A.
This work was published before January 1, 1929, and is in the public domain worldwide because the author died at least 100 years ago.
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