# The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier/Persian Travels/Book 1/Chapter 4

CHAP. IV.
A Continuation of the same Road from Erivan to Tauris.
It usually takes up ten days journey for the Caravan to go between Erivan and Tauris; and Nacksivan is almost in the mid-way between both. The first days journey you travel thorough large Plains sow'd with Rice, and water'd with several Rivulets. The next day you continue to travel through Plains of the same nature, in sight of the Mountain Ararat, which is full of Monasteries, leaving it upon the South. The Armenians call this Mountain Mesesoufar, The Mountain of the Ark; because the Ark of Noah rested upon it. It is as it were unfasten'd from the other Mountains of Armenia, and from the half-way to the top, it is continually cover'd with Snow. It is higher than any of the neighbouring Mountains; and in my first Travels I saw it for five days journey together. So soon as the Armenians discover it, they kiss the Earth, and lifting up their Eyes to Heaven, say their Prayers. Yet you are to take notice, that the Mountain is hid in Clouds for two or three Months together. In the Plains that you cross in this second days journey, to the Southward a League and a half from the Highway, is to be seen a Work of great Art; being the Ruines of a Magnificent Castle, where the Kings of Armenia were wont to reside in the time of their Hunting Divertisements; more especially when they continu'd their Sports at the Mallard and Heron. The next day we lodg'd near to a Village where there was good Water, which constrain'd the Caravan to stay there; there being none to be met with for ten Leagues farther. The next day you must travel one by one through the Pass of a Mountain, and cross a large River nam'd Arpa-sou, which falls into Aras. It is fordable when it is low; but when the Snow melts and swells the Stream, you must go a League out of your way to the Southward to cross it, over a Bridge of Stone. From thence you go to lodge near a Village call'd Kalifakiend, where you are forc'd to fetch your Water a good way off. The first days journey is through a Plain, at the end whereof you meet with an Inn, call'd Kara-bagler, standing upon a Rivulet; which was finish'd in 1664. The Head of this Rivulet springs three or four Leagues higher toward the North; and half a League below Kara-bagler, the Water congeals and petrifies; and of those Stones is the Inn built. The Stone is very slight; and when they have need of it, they make Trenches all along the Stream, and fill them with the same Water, which in eight or ten Months turns into Stone. The Water is very sweet, and has no bad tast; yet the Country-men thereabouts will neither drink it, nor water their Grounds with it. The Armenians say, that Sem the Son of Noah caus'd the Rock to be hollow'd, out of which this River issues; which four or five Leagues from its Head, and two from the Inn, falls into Aras. From this Inn to Naksivan is but a small Journey. Naksivan, ​according to the Opinion of the Armenian, is the most ancient City of the World; built about three Leagues from the Mountain upon which the Ark of Noah rested: from whence it also takes its Name; for Nak in the Armenian Tongue signifies a Ship, and Sivan, resting or reposing. 'Twas a great City, now wholly ruin'd by the Army of Sultan Amurath. There are the Remains of several rare Mosquees, which the Turks have destroy'd; for the Turks and Persians destroy one anothers Mosquees as fast as they fall into one anothers possession. This City is very ancient, and the Armenians report that it was in this place where Noah went to live, when he went out of the Ark. They say further, that he was Buried here; and that his Wife has a Tomb at Marante upon the Road to Tauris. There runs a little River by Naksivan, the Water whereof is very good; the Spring whereof is not far distant from the Head of the River of Karabagler. The Armenians drove a great Trade in Silk formerly in this Town, which is now very much abated: however, there is a Kan which has the Command there. All the Country between Erivan and Tauris was wholly destroy'd by Sha-Abas King of Persia, and the first of that Name; to the end that the Armies of the Turks, not meeting with any subsistance, might perish of themselves. To this purpose, he sent all the Inhabitants of Zulfa and the Parts adjoyning into Persia, Old and Young, Fathers, Mothers, and Children, with which he planted new Colonies in several parts of his Kingdom. He sent above 27000 Families of Armenians into Guilan, whence the Silks come, and where the harshness of the Climate kill'd abundance of those poor People, that were accustom'd to a milder Air. The most considerable were sent to Ispahan, where the King put them upon the Trade of Silk, and sent them Commodities, for which they paid upon the return of their Markets, which suddenly set the Armenians upon their Feet again. These are they that built the City of Zulfa, which is only separated from Ispahan by the River of Senderou, calling it New Zulfa, to distinguish it from the old City, which was the Habitation of their Ancestors. A third part of the People were dispers'd into other Villages between Ispahan and Sciras. But the old People dying, the young ones generally turn Mahumetans: so that now you can hardly meet with two Christian Armenians in all those fair Plains, which their Fathers were sent to manure.
Among the Ruines of Naksivan appear the Ruines of a great Mosquee, which was one of the most stately Buildings in the World: which some say was built in memory of Noah's Burying-place. As you depart out of the City, near to the River that runs by it, appears a Tower, which is an excellent piece of Architecture: It is compos'd of four Duomo's joyn'd together, which support a kind of Pyramid, that seems to be fram'd of twelve little Towers; but toward the middle it changes its figure, and lessening like a Spire, ends in a Point. The Building is all of Brick, but as well the out-side as the in-side is over-spread with a kind of Varnish of Parget, wrought into Flowers, like Emboss'd Work. 'Tis thought to have been an Edifice set up by Temur-leng, when he had Conquer'd Persia.
Between Naksivan and Zulfa, on each side, as well to the North as to the South, there are ten Covents of Christian Armenians, distant about two or three Leagues one from the other. They acknowledge the Pope, and are govern'd by certain Religious Dominicans of their own Nation. And to keep up their Religion, they send from time to time, to Rome, certain Children born in the Country, to learn the Latin and Italian Tongues, and other necessary Sciences. It is thought there are in this Quarter above six thousand Souls that absolutely follow the Doctrine of the Church of Rome; only that they sing the Office and the Mass in the Armenian Tongue, that all the People may hear and understand them. The Archbishop, being chosen, is sent to Rome to be confirm'd. He resides at a great Town, which is one of the most lovely places in all Asia; the Wine and Fruits that grow there are very delicate, besides the abundance of all other things necessary for Humane Life. Every Covent stands near a great Village: the chiefest where I have been twice, is Abarener, the second Abraghonnex, the third Kerna, the fourth Soletak, the fifth Kouchkachen, the sixth Giaouk, the seventh Chiabonnez, the eighth Araghouche, the ninth Kauzuk, the tenth Kisouk, which lyes upon the Frontiers of Curdistan or Assyria. Here it is, that the Armenians believe St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew to have been Martyr'd, of which they pretend to shew some Relicks at this day. Many Mahometans came thither out of Devotion, especially such as are troubl'd ​with Fevers. There are two or three of those Covents, where they civilly entertain such Christians as come out of Europe; though the Monks, there, are very poor. They also live very austere Lives, feeding upon nothing but Herbs. That which makes them so poor, is the often change of Tyrannical Governours, whom they are oblig'd to present with large Gifts. But in regard they cannot give much, those Governours have no kindness for them; for which reason, being instigated by those other Armenians who are able to oblige them, they use them so severely that they are often forc'd to complain to the King; which I have many times seen done at Ispahan.
A League and a half from the chief of these Covents there is a high Mountain, separated from all the rest, which rises like a Sugar-loaf, as doth the Pike of Tenariff. At the foot of this Mountain are certain Springs, that have the virtue to heal those that are bit by Serpents; in so much that Serpents carry'd to that place will dye immediately.
When the Caravan is ready to set out from Naksivan for Zulfa, which is not above a days journey from thence, the principal Armenians usually go out of the way to the Covent of St. Stephen, which lyes to the South.
Now the Road from Naksivan to St. Stephens lyes first to a great Village call'd Ecclisia, where live the richest Armenians, that drive a great Trade in Silk, and have built them a very fair Church.
Two Leagues from Ecclisia you must cross the River Aras in a Ferry-Boat, being as it were squeez'd between two Mountains in that place: Once I went over upon the Ice. About two Musket-shots from thence, you must cross, over a Bridge, another River that falls into the Aras. From the foot of the Bridge you begin to ascend a little Hill, at the top whereof you meet with a great Village, call'd Shambé, all the Inhabitants whereof, as well Men as Women, grow Mad at 18 years of age; but it is such a Madness that is not mischievous. Some believe it to be the Punishment of Heaven, for that their Forefathers in these Mountains persecuted St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew.
From hence to St. Stephen's it is not above a League, but the Way is very troublesom. St. Stephen's is a Covent built not above 30 Years ago. It stands upon the Mountains, in a barren place, and of difficult access. But the reason why the Armenians chose that place before any other, is because that St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew retir'd thither in the time of their Persecution. They add, that St. Matthew did a Miracle in that place: for that there being no Water there before, he only strook his Stick upon the Ground, and presently there arose a Spring. This Spring is about half a quarter of a League from the Covent, under a Vault with a good Door to it, to keep the Water from being wasted. The Armenians go to visit this Spring in great Devotion, having laid the Water into the Covent with Pipes. They also say, that in this place they found several Relicks which St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew left there, to which they add a great many others; among the rest a Cross, made of the Basin wherein Christ wash'd his Disciples Feet: In the middle of the Cross is a white Stone, which, as they report, if you lay upon a Sick person, will turn black if the person be likely to dye; and recover its former whiteness after the death of the party.
A Jaw-Bone of St. Stephen the Martyr.
The Scull of St. Matthew.
A Bone of the Neck, and a Bone of the Finger of St. John Baptist.
A Hand of St. Gregory, who was the Disciple of Dionysius the Areopagite.
A little Box, wherein they keep a great number of pieces of Bones, which they believe to be the Relicks of the Seventy Two Disciples.
The Church is built in the form of a Cross, as are all the Churches of the Armenians; in the middle whereof rises a fair Duomo, round about which stand the Twelve Apostles. Both the Church and Covent are of Free-stone, and though the whole Edifice be not very big, there has been abundance of Gold and Silver wasted upon the Walls: many Armenian Families have been very much endamag'd thereby; for the Women were so devout, that unknown to their Husbands they sold their Jewels, and their very Cloaths, to defray the Expences of Building.
The first time that I was at St. Stephen's, in the company of some Armenians, two Bishops, attended by several other Monks, came out to meet us, and led us ​into a great Hall, where we were very well treated. For it is the custom of the Armenians, a little before Meals to present their Guests a large Cup of Aqua-vitæ, with Sweet-meats of all sorts, besides Citron and Orange-peels candy'd, in seven or eight Porcelan-dishes, laid in a great China-Basin. This is a little Prelude to excite the Appetite; for the Armenians, both Men and Women, will empty great Cups of Aqua-vitæ. After Dinner they go to Church, where they sing certain Hymns: when you return, there are a sufficient number of Mattresses or Quilts to lye upon; for they use no other sort of Beds over all Asia: only at Night you spread a Carpet upon a Quilt, and shut the Door. We saw not the Archbishop all that Evening, only at Church.
About Midnight all the Bells rang, and every body rose to go to Church. I believe it was more than usual, because it was Shrovetide; for both the Office and the Missa were both concluded by break of day. Between eight and nine in the Morning the Cloth was laid; before which time we saw abundance of the neigbouring Country People, who brought Wine, Fruits, and other Provisions, and presented all to the Archbishop.
While we were at Breakfast news came that a certain Bishop was dead, in his return to the Three Churches; whither he was sent by the Patriarch to gather certain Duties due from the Villages. Immediately the Archbishop rising from the Table with all his Assistants, and having made a Prayer for the Dead, sent a Bishop and six Monks to fetch the Corps; who returning a little after Midnight, the Body was presently laid in the Church upon a Carpet spread upon the Ground, with the Face turn'd toward the Altar. In the mean time, a great number of Wax-candles were lighted, and all the rest of the Night two Monks watch'd by turns to Pray for the Dead. Early in the Morning the Archbishop, the Bishops and all in Religious Orders, said the Office for the Dead, which lasted half an Hour; and at the end of the Mass they brought the Corps to the Altar, so that they made the Feet of the Corps to touch it. Having so done, they took off the Linnen Cloth that cover'd his Head, at which time the Archbishop anointed him in six places with the Holy Oyl, saying certain Prayers every time. Then they cover'd him again, and said other Prayers which lasted half an Hour. These Ceremonies perform'd, they carry'd the Corps out of the Church with Crosses and Banners, and every one a Taper in his Hand. As the Corps pass'd by, one of the Bishops put a Paper in his right Hand, containing these Words, I came from the Father, and I return to the Father. Being brought to the Grave, upon a little Mountain near the Covent, and set down, they said other Prayers which lasted a quarter of an Hour. In the mean time a Bishop going down into the Grave, took away all the Stones and made the place smooth, after which the Corps was let down wrapt in a large Linnen Sheet. Then the Bishop, according to their custom, rais'd his Head a little higher than his Body, turning his Face to the East. Which being done, the Archbishop and Assistants took every one a handful of Earth, which the Archbishop blest, and giving it to the Bishop, he strew'd it over the Body. Then the Bishop coming out again, the Grave was fill'd up.
From St. Stephen's there is a descent for a League together to Aras, by the side whereof you are to keep along till you come to Zulfa, where you come into the high Road again. There is another way quite over the Mountain, which is the nearer way by a League, but 'tis very troublesom and toylsom, and therefore the less frequented.
But to return to the High-Road from Naksivan; half a League from Naksivan you meet with a River which falls into Aras, which is to be cross'd over a Stone-Bridge of 12 Arches, though there be but little Water, unless it be when the Snow melts, or the Rains fall. In a Meadow, next the Bridge, where we lodg'd one time that I travell'd that way, there is a Spring of lukewarm Water, which will loosen the Bellies of them that drink it. At this Bridge it is that the Toll-gatherer comes and takes his Duties, when the Caravan stays not at Naksivan. You must pay ten Abassi's for every Camel's Loading, or nine Livres, which is for the securing the Highways. These Duties are demanded in many places of Persia without searching the Packs. The Governours also in their Provinces are made to answer for every Robbery committed: which makes it so safe travelling in Persia, that you need not keep with the Caravan, unless you will your self.
​From this Bridge to Zulfa is but one days journey; which Town being altogether ruin'd, shews the reason wherefore the Caravan lodges upon the Bank of the River five hundred Paces on this side.
Zulfa, the ancient Habitation of the Armenians which Sha-Abas carried into Persia, is a Town squeez'd between two Mountains, through which the Aras runs, leaving but little Land on either side. It carries no Boats till about two Leagues below, (for upward it will hardly bear a piece of Timber) and in regard the Country grows low and extends it self into Plains, there is no fear of Rocks, the course of the Stream being very quiet. There was a fair Stone-Bridge, which Sha-Abas caus'd to be broken down; when he wholly destroy'd the Town, that it might be no harbour for the Turks. Neither by the Ruines, nor by its Situation, doth it appear to have been a City of any ancient Beauty; the Stones were clapt unskilfully together without Morter, so that the Houses were more like Caves than Houses. The North-West side was most inhabited, there being nothing on the other side worth taking notice of. The Lands about Zulfa being very fertil, there are certain Armenian Families return'd, who live very quietly. Cogia Nazar, one of the chief Armenians that went out of Zulfa, growing rich by Trade, and being in great reputation with Sha-Abas, and Sha-Sefi his Successor, who made him Kelonter, or Chief Judge of the Armenian Nation, built two great Inns, for the Honour of his Country, in Zulfa, upon each side of the River one. He spent above an hundred thousand Crowns, but dying left two remarkable Pieces of Work unfinish'd.
Half a League on this side Zulfa, before you cross a Torrent that falls into Aras, you may take your choice of two ways to go to Tauris. The one upon the right hand, leading to the South-East, which is the ordinary Road; the other upon the left hand, toward the North-East, which we took eight or ten in company together on horseback, the last time I went to Ispahan. We left the Caravan, that takes the great Road, and never goes the other way, because it is full of Rocks and Stones that spoil the hoofs of the Camels. However I was willing to see a new Country, which I shall describe before I come to the great Road.
From the Torrent where we left the Caravan, we went forward, and lay at a Village not above a League and a half off.
The next day, after we had kept along by the Banks of the Aras for five or six Hours, we came to Astabat, which lyes a League from the River, where we staid above two Days to divert our selves. This is but a little City, but a very neat one where there are four Inns, and every House has its Fountain. The great plenty of Water makes the City very fruitful in all things; more especially in good Wine. This is the only Country in the World that produces the Ronas, for which there is a vast utterance all over Persia and India. The Ronas is a Root that grows in the Earth like Liquorice, and is not much bigger. The use of it is to dye Red, and this is that Red which gives that beautiful tincture to all the Calicuts that come out of the Mogul's Country. Though the Roots which are pull'd out of the Earth are very long, yet they cut them into pieces not above as long as a Man's Hand, for the better accommodation of Carriage. It is a wonderful thing to behold at Ormus whole Caravans laden with this Ronas, which they Ship off from thence to the Indies.
The Root is full of Juyce, and yields a very high Tincture; for I remember that an Indian Vessel that was laden with it, being cast away in the Road of Ormus, where the Bags of Ronas floated, the Sea look'd of a red colour for several days.
Departing from Astabat, it behov'd us to provide our selves with Straw and Barley for our Horses, understanding that we should meet with none all that days journey. From thence we travell'd upon a descent for an hour together to the River Aras, which we cross'd in a Boat, and all the rest of the day we travel'd through Mountains, over Torrents and Stones. That Evening we lay upon the Bank of a small Stream.
The day following, after we had travel'd through a spacious Valley for two or three hours, we ascended a high Mountain, at the top whereof we met with two or three pitiful Houses, where we stopt that day.
The next, which was the fifth after, we left the Caravan, we travel'd upon a ​descent for two or three hours, till we came to a great Village neatly situated, where there grows excellent Fruit. There we repos'd for an hour or two and from thence we came to a great Stone-Bridge on a River where there is no Water but when the Rains fall. It falls into the Lake Roumi; but the Water of the River is so sowr and ill-tasted, especially when it is low, that it is not to be drunk. About a quarter of a League from the Bridge are three long Stones set in the Ground like Pillars: the Natives say that they were plac'd there for a Monument, in the same place where Darius the Son of Hystaspes was elected King by the cunning of the Gentleman of his Horse: from whence to Tauris is but half a League. The Mountains of the Medes which we cross'd in this Road, and those which run along toward the ancient Parthians, are the most fertil in all Persia. They bear Corn and Fruit in abundance; for upon the high Mountains there are fair Plains sow'd with Wheat, which are extraordinary fertil. The Springs which rise there, and Rains which fall give a fresher beauty and a higher tast to what grows there, more than in any other part of Persia that wants Water; and the products of those Fields are of a higher price.
Now for the great Road. The Caravan having cross'd the Stream where we left it, lodges the next Night upon the Banks of Aras, over which it ferries the next Morning. It does not go thorough Zulfa, though it be so near it; because that on the other side of the City there are three Leagues of Way very bad and unfrequented. For which reason you must leave Zulfa on the right hand, which is not much out of the way. After two hours travel you go by a Bridge which is call'd Sugiac; after which you come upon Heaths encompass'd with high Rocks. All this days journey you meet with no Water, but only one little Fountain, and the Water is so bad that the Beasts will hardly drink it.
The day following you travel through an even Country, but very barren: where you meet with nothing but a forlorn Inn; though it be a place where Cost has been bestow'd, and built all of Free-stone, that was fetch'd a great way off. The next Stage is Marante, famous for the Burying-place of Noah's Wife. The Town is not very big; resembling rather a Thicket than a City: but the situation is very pleasant, in the middle of a fertil Plain adorn'd with several well peopl'd Villages. This Plain does not extend above a League round about Marante, the Country beyond it being all barren. However it is not altogether unprofitable: for being a continual Heath, it affords feeding for the Camels, which are there bred for the Caravans. Which is the reason that there are so many Camel-Masters at Sugiac and Marante, who furnish great part of the Road. At Marante you must pay thirteen Abassi's, or four Crowns for every Camel's Load, for the security of the Road.
Leaving Marante, you lodge the next night a League from Sophiana in a bushy Plain, where the Water is worth nothing; after you have travell'd a mix'd Country, barren enough, where you meet with but one Inn in a Valley: but it is a very fair one. Sophiana is an indifferent large City, which you cannot see till you come within it, by reason of the great number of Trees planted in the Streets and round about it, which makes it look rather like a Forest than a City.
The next day, which is usually the tenth days journey from Erivan, the Caravan, having cross'd fair, large and fertil Plains, arrives at Tauris. Those Plains are water'd with several Streams that fall from the Median Mountains; but the Water is not all of the same goodness, for there is some which cannot be drunk.
In the mid-way between Sophiana and Tauris, lyes a Hill, from whence you have a prospect over those Plains, upon which the Army of Sultan Amurath Encamp'd, when he besieg'd Tauris. The news coming to Sha-Sefi King of Persia, that he had burnt it, and was marching further into the Country with a hundred thousand Men, Let him come, said he, without any disturbance, I know how to make the Turks pay for their invasion without any great trouble. They were then not above fifteen days march from Ispahan, when Sha-Sefi turn'd the course of all the Streams both before and behind, which only run from certain Springs, and are brought in Cutts or Chanels into the Inland parts of Persia, where there are no Rivers: By which means the whole Army of the Turks perish'd for want of Water in those vast unwater'd Countries where they had engag'd themselves too far.
Tauris lyes in 83 Degrees, 30 Minutes of Longitude; and 40 Degrees, 15 Minutes of Latitude, in an open place where there is not a Tree to be seen; and ​environ'd with Mountains on every side, but only upon the West. The furthest Mountain is not above a League from the City, but there is one which almost touches it, being only separated from it by the River. 'Tis a good Country, and fruitful in Corn; there is good Pasturage, and great store of Pulse. Some think that Tauris was the ancient Ecbatane, the Metropolis of the Empire of the Medes. It is at this day a great City and well peopl'd, as being the Mart for Turkie, Muscovy, the Indies, and Persia. There are an infinite number of Merchants, and vast quantities of all sorts of Merchandize: particularly of Silk, which is brought out of the Province of Guilan, and other places. There is also a great Trade for Horses, which are handsom and cheap. Wine, Aqua-vitæ, and indeed all sorts of Provisions are cheap enough; and Money trolls about in that place more than in any other part of Asia. Many Armenian Families have got great Estates there by Trade, and understand it better than the Persians. A little River, the Water whereof is very good, runs through the middle of Tauris; it's call'd Scheinkaïe, over which there are three Bridges to cross from one part of the City to the other.
The most part of the Buildings in Tauris are of Bricks bak'd in the Sun; the Houses not being above one or two Stories high at most. The tops of the Houses are terrass'd; the Roofs within are vaulted, and plaister'd with Earth mix'd with chopt Straw, which they whiten afterwards with Lime. In the year 1638 the City was almost ruin'd by Sultan Amurath; but it is almost all rebuilt again. There are in it Bazars, or Market-houses, which are well built, and many Inns very commodious, two Stories high. The fairest is that of Mirza-Sadé, Governour of the Province, who caus'd it to be built with a Market-house adjoyning, to which he has added a Mosquee and a Colledge, with good Revenues.
The great Trade of Tauris renders it renown'd over all Asia: for it has a continual Traffick with Turks, Arabians, Georgians, Mengrelians, Persians, Indians, Muscovites, and Tartars. The Bazars or Market-houses, which are cover'd, are always full of Goods: for there are some which are peculiar to the Handicraft-Trades; the most part whereof are Smiths, such as make Saws, Axes, Files, and Steels to strike Fire, with Tobacco-stoppers belonging to them. Some there are that make Pad-locks: for the Eastern People fasten their Doors only with wooden Bolts. There are also Turners, that furnish the neighbouring Parts with Spinning-Wheels and Cradles: and some Goldsmiths, that make trifles of Silver. But there is abundance of Silk-weavers that are Artists, and work very neatly, and indeed there are more of those than of any other Trade. Here it is that they dress the greatest part of the Shagrin-Skins that are vended so plentifully all over Persia; for there are none unless it be the Country-people, but wear Boots or Shooes of Shagrin-Leather. This Leather is made either of the Hides of Horses, Asses, or Mules, and only of the hinder part of the Hide: but the Asses Hide has the best grain.
There are to be seen at Tauris, Ruines of the stately Edifices round about the great Piazza, and the neighbouring Parts: they have also let run to ruine four or five Mosquees of a prodigious height and bigness. The most magnificent and the biggest stands as you go out of the Town, in the Road to Ispahan. The Persians will not come near it, but look upon it as defil'd, and a Mosquee of Hereticks, in regard it was built by the Sounnis, or the followers of Omar. 'Tis a vast Structure fairly built, the Front whereof is fifty Paces broad, with an ascent of eight Steps. It is lin'd without with Brick-work varnish'd with different Colours; and adorn'd within with very fair Painting A Pantique, and abundance of Cifers and Arabian Letters in Gold and Azure. Upon two sides of the Fore-front are rear'd two Minarets or Towers very high, but not very wide, yet with Stairs to go up to the top. They are lin'd with varnish'd Brick-work, which is the usual Ornament of the Persian Buildings: and at the top stand two Cupola's, form'd like the Turbants which the Persians wear. The Gate of the Mosquee is not above four Foot wide, cut out of a great transparent white Stone, four and twenty Foot high, and twelve broad. Entring at the Door of the Mosquee, you come into a spacious Duomo, thirty six Paces in Diameter, rais'd upon twelve Pillars within, and supported by sixteen without, which Pillars are very high, and six Foot square. Below there is a Balustrade or Rails that run round about the Building, with Doors to go ​from one side to the other: and the Foot of every Pillar, which is of white Marble, is hollow'd into little Niches equal with the Floor, where the People put their Shooes, when they go farther to their Devotions. The inside of the Walls is varnish'd in Squares of several Colours, with Flowers, Cifers, and Arabian Letters intermix'd, and wrought in Emboss'd-work, so well painted, so well gilded, that it seems to be but one piece of Work, cut out with a pair of Scissars. From this Duomo you pass to another lesser, but more beautiful in its kind. The lower part is of transparent white Stone, of the same nature with that in the Front, cut in great Panes like a Door that never opens. This Duomo has no Pillars, but eight Foot high, it is all of white Marble, where are to be seen Stones of a prodigious length and bredth: The inside of the Vault is a violet Enamel, painted with all sorts of Flowers in Flat-work, but the outside of both the Duomo's is cover'd with varnish'd Brick-work, and Flowers emboss'd A la Moresque. Upon the first the Flowers are black upon green; upon the second, white Stars upon black: which diversity of Colours is very pleasing to the Eye.
Near the Door out of which you enter into the lesser Duomo, on the left hand, stands a Chair of Walnut-tree curiously carv'd, and fasten'd to the Wall; it stands upon a Platform rais'd six steps high, without any Canopy. On the right hand stands another Chair of the same Wood, and an exquisite piece of Workmanship; with a kind of State over it of the same Wood, fasten'd to the Wall. There is a little Rail about it; and the Platform is four steps high. On the South-side of the Mosquee there are two white transparent Stones, which when the Sun shines upon them look red: And sometimes after the Sun is set, you may read at those Stones by the reflexion of the Sun-beams.
Just against the Mosquee on the other side is another Front, which is the only Remain of a ruin'd Building. It was the abode of the Sheck-Iman, or the Chief Priest. There had been large Baths which belonging to it, but they are all destroy'd; some others there were of less note, which are not lookt after.
In the great Piazza of Tauris and in the parts adjoyning, stands a fair Mosquee, a Colledge, and a Castle, which fall to decay; these Buildings being forsaken; by reason they were made use of by the Sounni's, which were followers of Omar. Near the same Church is a ruin'd Church of the Armenians, whether they say St. Helena sent the true Cross. There is another Mosquee, which was formerly a Church dedicated to St. John Baptist, where they say one of his Hands was preserv'd a long time.
The Capuchins have a very convenient House at Tauris; for Mirza-Ibrahim Governour of the Province, whose credit is equal to the Kan of Tauris, which is the chiefest Command in Persia, favours him very much with his protection. This Governour has made himself very considerable at Court, and very much respected by the King for his indefatigable pains, and his extraordinary agility in augmenting the King's Revenue: having found out such ways for that purpose as never entred into the thoughts of any that preceded him in the same Employment. He is very curious to learn all the Noble Sciences, which is a quality very rare among the Persians: He also takes great delight in the Mathematicks and Philosophy, discoursing often with Gabriel de Chinon, Governour of the Capuchins Covent in Tauris. But the great desire which Mirza-Ibrahim had to have his two Sons taught by the said Gabriel, was the chief motive that made him so favourable to that Covent. He bought the Friers a place to build their House, and liberally furnish'd them for the Expence of the Work.
When the Sun sets and rises, there are a certain Company of People who are oblig'd to make a hideous noise with Drums and Trumpets in the Meidan, or great Piazza of the City. They stand upon one side of the Piazza in a Gallery somewhat rais'd; which is a Custom observ'd in all the Cities under the Persian Government.
As you go out of Tauris upon the North-side, there is a Mountain close by, there being only the River between it. The name of it is Einali-Zeinali, and formerly there stood upon the top of it a fair Hermitage of the Armenians, which the Mahometans have converted into a Mosquee. At the bottom of the Mountain stands a Fortress and a Mosquee, which they let go to ruine, because they were built by the Ottomans. A little farther upon the brink of the Precipice stands a Monastery, near to which are two Caves, where are certain Sepulchers and Marble Pillars ​lying along upon the Ground. There are also in the Mosquee certain Tombs of the ancient Kings of the Medes, the Remains whereof shew that the Work was very Excellent.
Upon the Road from Tauris to Ispahan, about half a League from the utmost Gardens, between several knaps of the Mountain which you leave upon the right hand, upon the top of the highest of all, where there never was any Water, and where it is impossible to bring any, appears a Bridge fifty Paces long, the Arches whereof are very fair ones, but it falls to decay. It was a Mollah that built it, out of what design no person knew: nor can you come to Tauris upon that side, but you must see that Bridge, because there is no other way, there being nothing but Water and Precipices on either hand. Afterwards he confess'd that he built it out of meer Vanity, knowing that Sha-Abas, the first of that Name was to come to Tauris. The King indeed came some time after, and seeing an unprofitable Bridge upon the top of a Mountain, he demanded who built it, and what was his design. To whom the Mollah return'd this Answer, Sir, said he, I built that Bridge, that when your Majesty came to Tauris, you might inform your self from the mouth of him that built it. By which it appear'd, that the Mollah had no other ambition than to oblige the King to speak to him.
A League from Tauris is to the West, in the middle of a Field stands a great Brick Tower, call'd Kanhazun. It is about fifty Paces in Diameter, and though it be half ruin'd, yet it is very high. It seems to have been the Dungeon of some Castle, there being very high Walls round about it; which though they be but of Earth, nevertheless appear to be very ancient. It is not certainly known who built this Tower, but the Arabian Letters upon the Gate afford us some reason to conclude that it was a Mahometan Structure. In the year 1651 there happen'd a terrible Earthquake in Tauris and the parts thereabout, by which many Houses were overturn'd, and this Tower then cleaving from the top to the bottom, a good part of it fell down, and fill'd up the hollow within-side.
Besides the little River that runs by Tauris, there is another bigger to be cross'd, about half a League from the City, over which there is a very fair Stone-Bridge. Near to it stands a Sepulcher, cover'd with a little Duomo, where the Persians say that the Sister of Iman-Riza lyes interr'd; and they have it in great veneration. The River that runs under the Bridge comes from the Mountains of the North, and falls into the Lake Roumi, thirteen or fourteen Leagues from Tauris. They call it Aggisou, or Bitter-water; for the Water is very bad, and without any Fish. The Lake which is fifteen Leagues in compass, has the same quality, the Water being blackish: the Fish that happen into it out of other Rivers that fall into it, presently become blind, and in a short while are found dead by the Shoar. This Lake takes its name from a Province and a little City, which are both call'd Roumi, being not above eleven Leagues from Tauris.
In the middle of the Lake, upon the way that leads to a little City call'd Tokoriam, there is a little Hill that rises insensibly, the ascent whereof is very smooth, and out of it there rise many little Springs. The farther they run from the Head, the wider grow the Streams: and the Earth which they water is of two distinct qualities: the first Earth that is dig'd serves to make Lime: the next to that is a hollow spungy Stone, that is good for nothing: but under that again is a white transparent Stone, which you may see through as through Glass, which being smooth and polish'd serves to adorn the Houses. This Stone is only a congelation of the Waters of these Streams for sometimes you shall meet with creeping Animals congeal'd within. The Governour of the Province sent one piece to Sha-Abas, as a great Present, wherein there was a Lizard congeal'd of a Foot long. He that presented it to the Governour had twenty Tomans, or three hundred Crowns; afterwards I offer'd a thousand for the same Piece. In some parts of the Province of Mazandran, where the Euxin Sea stretches farthest into the Persian Territories, these congeal'd Stones are to be found, but not so frequently as near the Lake Roumi; and you shall many times find pieces of Wood and Worms congeal'd in the Stones. I brought away a Camels-loading of these Stones, and left them at Marseilles; till I could find what use to put them to.