# The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier/Persian Travels/Book 1/Chapter 7

CHAP. VII.
Of the Road from Smyrna to Ispahan, through Natolia.
Smyrna is at this day for Trade, whether it be by Sea or Land, one of the most celebrated Cities of all the Levant, and the greatest Market for all sorts of Commodities which are transported out of Asia into Europe, or out of Europe into Asia. Hither all the Western Fleets are most regularly bound, that came formerly no farther than Ligorn, and from whence, at times most regularly appointed, the fairest Caravans set out.
This City lyes in 50 Degrees of Longitude; and 38 Degrees, 45 Minutes of Latitude; at the bottom of a Gulf in the Archipelago, which is seven Leagues in length, upon the right side of the Isthmus which begins to form the Peninsula of Clazomene, right against the Iland of Schio. It lyes in that part of the Lesser Asia, which the Greeks possess'd, under the Name of Iconium; at a distance almost equal, between Ephesus and Sardis; and was one of the seven Churches mention'd in the Revelation of St. John. It is at this day a great City, built like an Amphitheater, upon the descent of a Hill that looks toward the Summer-West. But it is neither so great, nor so beautiful as formerly it was, as may be easily conjectur'd by the Ruines of certain Edifices that remain upon that Hill, which from the middle to the top, where the ancient City stood, are altogether uninhabited. There are also to be seen the Walls of a fair Castle, and above that the Ruines of an Amphitheater, where they say St. Polycarp was expos'd to fight with Lions. This Amphitheater was not in the form of those other, which are usually round; for it contained but half a Circle, being left open to the Sea-side. The Turks have almost quite destroy'd it: making use of the Stones to build a Fort two Leagues from the City, upon the Gulf, where the passage is very narrow; which the Ships are forc'd to salute as they enter in, and to speak with when they sail out. Moreover, that they might not be put to send for Stones a-far off, they consulted whether they might not make use of the Stones of the Christians Monuments, as also of those of the Jews, which are near the Shore: But they took very few, whether out of kindness to the Tombs, or whether they did not think them so proper for use as the Stones of the Amphitheater. This Castle had not been long built, but upon an occasion very remarkable. In the last Wars of the Turks with the Venetians the Ottoman Fleet having been beaten in the Archipelago, the Grand Signor resolv'd to re-fit another to Sea, and thereupon sent to all the parts of his Empire, where he knew any English or Holland Vessels usually were wont to ride, to solicit them to serve him for his Pay. More particularly he aim'd at those Vessels which were in Smyrna, where there were generally more than in any other Port. But the Captains, who rejected his Proposition of fighting against the Venetians, believing that he would put some force upon them, suddenly hois'd Sail and got away; it being at a time when he could not keep them in, having no Castle then built to command them. The Grand Visier nettl'd at the refusal of the Captains, as an affront done to his Master, and to see that the Ships could come in and go out, without any let or molestation, bethought himself (to the end he might keep them for the future under subjection) of building a Fort upon the Gulf, in such a part where the Vessels must necessarily touch; where now there lye great Cannons level with the Water, which no Vessel can escape. Ever since the Convoys will not come to Smyrna, as they were wont to do, but lye out at Sea, out of the reach of the Fort.
Near to the Sea are yet to be seen some Remains of a Church, two sides whereof seem to have been distinguish'd into Chappels by little Walls, which are yet standing: But the Natives doubt whether they be the Ruines of a Church dedicated to St. Polycarp, or of an ancient Temple of Janus.
Smyrna has been oftentimes ruin'd either by the Wars, or by the Earthquakes which often happen there. One time that I staid there, there happen'd one, which did not last long, but was very terrible. About sixty Paces from the Sea are to be discern'd the Ruines of great Walls two Foot under Water; and at the end of the ​City that looks toward the Winter-West, near to the Sea, appear the Ruines of a Mole, and certain ancient Magazins.
The English Merchants have dig'd among the Ruines of Smyrna, and have found great store of fair Statues, which they transported into their own Country. There are still found some or other every day; but when the Turks find any, they disfigure them presently. It may be conjectur'd, that there was one of a prodigious bigness, by a great Toe broken off of some one, and for which I paid sufficiently, out of the desire I had to buy it. I sent it to Paris to a Person of Quality, who look'd upon it as a great Curiosity. This Toe was of a hard white Stone, and well shap'd, and by the proportion whereof, the Figure could not be judg'd to be less than the Colossus of Rhodes.
Upon that side of the City where the Mole was, stands an old Castle of no defence, at the foot whereof the Sea makes a small Creek, where sometimes the Gallies of the Grand Signor lye.
The City is well peopl'd, containing no less than fourscore and ten thousand Souls. There are reckon'd no less than 60000 Turks, 15000 Greeks, 8000 Armenians, and about six or seven thousand Jews. As for the European Christians that Trade there, their number is very small. Every one of these Nations has the exercise of their Religion free to themselves. The Turks have in Smyrna fifteen Mosquees, the Jews seven Synagogues, the Armenians but one Church, the Greeks two, and the Latins three. There are also French Jesuits, and Italian Observantins, or a sort of Grey Franciscans. The Turks, the Greeks, the Armenians, and Jews live upon the Hill; but all the lower part toward the Sea is inhabited only by the European Christians, English, French, Hollanders, and Italians. The Greeks have also in the same Quarter an old Church, and some few small Houses, where Sea-men make merry.
All these different People of Europe are generally known in Smyrna by the Name of Franks. Every Nation has its Consul: and the French Consul has two Vice-Consuls under him; the one at Scalanova, the other at Chio.
Scalanova, or the New Port, is two Leagues beyond Ephesus, and being a good Haven, the Vessels were wont to unlade there; but the Turks would not permit it any longer. For that Place being the Dowry of the Grand Signor's Mother, the Vice-Consul agreed with the Governour of Scalanova, who permitted the Transportation of Goods to Smyrna, which is not above three little days journey with the Caravan: A thing that spoil'd the Trade of the City, and injur'd the Officers of the Custom-House. Whereupon they Petition'd the Grand Signor that no more Goods might be unladed at Scalanova: so that now no more Vessels go thither, unless it be to take in fresh Victuals.
Chio is one of the greatest Ilands in the Archipelago, of which in another place: but the Vice-Consul that lives there has no more business there than the other at Scalanova; for the Vessels that touch there, neither unlade nor export any Goods from thence.
The Quarter of the Franks is only a long Street, one side whereof lyes upon the Sea; and as well for the Prospect, as for the convenience of Unlading Goods, the Houses upon the Sea are much dearer than those that lye upon the Hill.
The Soil about Smyrna is fertil, and abounds in all things necessary for humane support; but particularly in good Oyl and good Wine. There are Salt-Pits also half a League from the City, toward the North. The Sea affords great store of good Fish; Fowl is very cheap and in a word, Smyrna is a place of great plenty. There is a lovely Walk all along the Sea to the Salt-Pits, where generally, abundance of People walk in the Summer-time to take the fresh Air: and there being more liberty at Smyrna than in any other part of Turkie, there is no necessity of taking a Janisary along, when a man goes abroad. If a man loves Fowling, it is but taking a Boat, which lands him two or three Leagues from the City, toward the Mountains, where there is so much Game that he can never return empty. For the value of three Sous you may buy a red Partridge at Smyrna, and all other Fowl is proportionably cheap.
But if Smyrna have these great advantages, it has also its inconveniences: the Heats are very excessive in Summer, and indeed they would be insupportable, were it not for the Breezes that come off the Sea: these Breezes rise about ten in the Morning, and continue till the Evening; but if they fail, tis very bad for the ​Inhabitants. Besides, there hardly passes a Year but the City is infested with the Plague, which however is not so violent as in Christendom. The Turks neither fear it nor flie it, believing altogether in Predestination. Yet I believe, if the Inhabitants of Smyrna would take care to drain away the standing Puddles that gather in the Winter about the City, they would not be so frequently molested with the Plague as they are. It is most rife in May, June, and July, but the malignant Fevers that succeed it in September and October are more to be fear'd, more People dying of them than of the Pestilence. In all my Travels I never was in Smyrna at these unfortunate Seasons. There is no Basha in that City; it being govern'd only by a Cady, who is not so severe to the Christians as in other places: For should he abuse his Office, Constantinople is at hand, where you may complain to the Mufti, and have relief; who for some good Present may be easily perswaded to depose the Cady, as being glad of the opportunity to displace him, and to put another in his room.
The Customs of Smyrna yield a great Revenue to the Grand Signor, being paid there very exactly. But were there a certain Rate put upon Commodities, the Merchants, who would otherwise be losers, would not study so many ways as they do to deceive the Customers: For those Customers lay what Price they please upon Commodities, valuing that at a thousand Crowns, which perhaps is not worth three hundred, being absolute Masters of the Rate. In my last Voyage to Smyrna, four Dutch Women that went thither in our Ship from their own Country, carry'd a-shoar under their Coats whatever I had of rich Merchandize: for the Turks have such a respect for that Sex, that they will not so much as offer to search them. If a man be tak'n in stealing Customs, there is no other punishment than to pay double.
The Trade of Smyrna is very great, and the principal Merchandizes which the Franks transport from thence, are raw Silk, which the Armenians bring out of Persia; Chamlet-yarn, and Chamlet or Goats-hair, which come from a little City call'd Angouri, fifteen or sixteen days journey from Smyrna; Cotton twisted; Skins and Cordovans of several colours; Calicuts, white and blew; great quantities of Wool for Mattresses, Tap'stries, quilted Coverlets, Soap, Rhubarb, Galls, Valanede, Scammony, and Opium; which four last Commodities are to be had in the Countries near to Smyrna, but not in great quantities. The Caravans come generally to this Town in the Months of February, June, and October; and depart again to the Countries from whence they came the same Months.
Ephesus not being above a day and a halfs journey from Smyrna, on Horse-back I took an opportunity to go thither. There were twelve of us that joyn'd together, Franks and Hollanders, who took three Janisaries along with us, and three Horses to carry our Provision.
We travel'd this little Journey in the Summer, and setting out of Smyrna about three of the Clock in the Afternoon, we rode through a Country part Plains, and part Hills, till we came to a great Village, where we sup'd.
After we had staid there three hours, we took Horse and travel'd till Midnight, to avoid the Heats: By the way we met with nine or ten Arches, very narrow; which we could not conjecture to be any thing else than the Ruines of some Aqueduct. From thence to Ephesus the way is very pleasant, through little Thickets watred with Rivulets.
A quarter of a League from Ephesus you meet with another Mosquee, which was formerly a Christian Church, built out of the Ruines of the Temple of Ephesus. This Mosquee stands enclos'd with Walls, and you must ascend up to it by two Ascents of twelve Steps a-piece, which bring you to a large Passage. From thence you enter into a large Cloyster, the Arches whereof are sustain'd with Marble Pillars of several colours, delicately wrought; and the lower part of the Gallery, which runs along three of the sides, that consists of great Squares of Stone. The Mosquee takes up the fourth side upon the left hand, the Gate being in the middle. The Mosquee it self is a wide Arch, supported by five Columns, all of most exquisite Work. There are four of Marble, and every one of a different Colour; but the fifth is a most rare piece, being of Porphyry, and the bigness of it makes it so much the more to be admir'd.
Ephesus does not look like a City, being so absolutely ruin'd, that there is not a House standing. It was built upon the descent of a Hill, in a situation not much ​unlike that of Smyrna, at the foot whereof runs a Rivulet, after it has made a thousand Mæanders in the Meadows. The City seems to have been very large, for you may discern upon the top of the Gates the compass of the Walls, with several square Towers, some of which are still standing: and there is one very remarkable, having two Chambers in it, one of which is a very fair one, the Walls and Pavement whereof are Marble.
The famous Temple of Diana stood at the bottom of the Hill, near one of the Gates of the City. There remains nothing of it at present but the great Portal, which is entire. The Vaults of the Arches under ground stand to this day, and are very large, but all full of nastiness. We went in with Lanthorns; and though you must creep to get in, by reason that the Wind has almost stopt up the Hole, by gathering the Dust about it, yet when you are in, you may go upright for the Arches are high and fair, and little the worse. Near the Gate lye four or five Columns upon the Ground, and near to that a Fountain, ten Foot in Diameter, and two deep. The People of the Country report, that it was the Fountain wherein St. John Baptiz'd the Christians. For my part, as I have seen in the Indies several Pagods and Edifices much more beautiful than ever the Temple of Ephesus could be; I believe it rather to have been a Basin wherein the People put their Offerings, of which there are several such that belong to the Indian Pagods. The Greeks and Armenians, but above all the Franks, when they go to Ephesus always endeavour to break off some piece of that Basin, to carry it away with 'em as a Relick: but the Stone is so hard, that they can break off but very little at a time.
Not far from the Temple appears another Gate of the City, over which there lyes a great Stone seven or eight Foot square, with an emboss'd Figure of Q. Curtius that Famous Roman, who threw himself, Horse and Arms into the gaping Earth, for the good of his Country. Many Merchants have offer'd Money for liberty to carry it away, but cannot obtain leave. About five hundred Paces from Ephesus is the Grotto which they call the Seven Sleepers, at the bottom of the same Hill where the City was built.
From Ephesus we went to Scalanova, which is not above two Leagues off. By that time you come half the way, the little River that runs by Ephesus falls into the Sea; in the mouth whereof there are always a great number of Greek Barks fishing for Sturgeon. Of the Spawn of this Fish they make Caveare, and drive a great Trade in it in those Parts: then they take the most delicate and smallest Entrails of that Fish, which they fill with the same Spawn, of which they make a kind of a flat Pudding, as long as a Bisket, which they call Botargo. This they dry in the Smoak, and cut it afterwards in slices to eat. Upon this and the Cuttle-fish the Greeks generally feed during their Lent, which is very austere.
Scalanova is a Port of which I have already spoken, and thither we came by seven a Clock in the Evening; where the Governour of the Place, more civil than usually the Turks are accustom'd to be, made us very welcom.
In the Evening one of our Janizaries had quarrel'd with one of our Servants, who thereupon had beaten him; and therefore he complain'd to the Fellow's Master, who not giving him that satisfaction which he desir'd, thereupon the Turk study'd to be reveng'd upon the whole Company. For this reason, upon some pretence or other, he went before, the better to bring about his design. We staid till the Morning, and then departed early from Scalanova, and by Noon we came with good Stomachs to the Mosquee near Ephesus, where we had been the day before: And some of the Company thought it a very convenient place to dine in, i'the shade; thereupon we sent for our Provisions, with a Boracho of Wine, and another of Water, and fell to eating in the Passage into the Mosquee, not dreaming any harm. We had not been long at it, when we perceiv'd two or three Turks about two hundred Paces off, who came from a Village very near to the Mosquee. I knowing the custom of the Country better than they, told them, that they were certainly coming to pick a quarrel with us, and therefore caus'd them to hide the Bottle of Wine immediately; for it was then the Turks Ramezan, or Lent; during which time Wine is strictly forbidden. These two ill-contriv'd and ill-clad Fellows were the Janizaries of the place, whom the Cadi had sent, upon the information of our Janizary (who knowing we had eaten in the same place before, as indeed we had done, made no question but we would do so again) thinking to surprize us ​as we were drinking Wine, in a place which they esteem Sacred, and by consequence was among them accounted an act of Sacriledge. Christian Dogs, cry'd they, when they came near us, to eat and drink in a Mosquee, and profane a holy place as you do, at a time that renders the offence more criminal! No, cry'd I, answering for the rest, we drink no Wine, we drink nothing but Water, and you may tast it, said I to him that was the most busie; with that I caus'd a Glass to be pour'd out and giv'n him; and I gave one of the Turks a private wink, who understanding it was a promise of gratuity, turn'd about to his Comrades, and cry'd, 'Tis very true, they drink no Wine. However in regard they had Orders to bring us before the Cady, there was no contending. Thereupon I and three others undertook to and answer for all the rest. The Cady revil'd us as bad as the Janizary at first; but he was not only surpriz'd, but very much troubl'd, when they all unanimously affirm'd that we drank no Wine, believing they were confederates with us. But I had cunningly slipt eight Ducats into the Hand of the Turk to whom I had made a sign with my Eye, who over-joy'd at so plentiful a gratuity, had over-perswaded his Comrades not to say any thing against us. The Cady though he did not like their Testimony, yet call'd for Coffee for us, according to the custom of the Country, and sent us to his Lieutenant; who having been often greas'd in the Fist by the Smyrna-Merchants, receiv'd us very kindly, and told us that the Cady was but newly come to his Place, and was needy; however a small matter would content him. Thereupon we gave the Lieutenant twenty-five Ducats, who most certainly went snips with the Cady, and so return'd us to our Company, who were much afraid we would not have come off so.
We were resolv'd to return to Smyrna not the same way we came, and so we took another Road, which was a very pleasant way, partly over firm Sands, and partly thorough Meadows, where we met with several narrow Dikes very well Pav'd. Then we cross a rugged high Mountain, and lay in a Mahumetan Barn.
The next day we return'd to Smyrna, having finish'd our small Journey to Ephesus in five days. When we told the Consuls how the Janizary had betray'd us, they made their Complaint to the Janizary Aga and the Cady, who, for his punishment put him out of the Consul's service, which is an advantageous Employment. For besides that the Consul's Janizaries are exempt from the Duties of War, they are well plac'd; for there is never a Merchant that is not beneficial to them some way or other; especially at good times, as New-years-day and other Festivals. Nor could the Janizary have been more severely punish'd; for the Turks love Money above all things in the World.
But to return to our matter. The Rendezvouz of all the Caravans is generally two Leagues from the City, near a Town call'd Pongarbachi. The day of their setting out being fix'd, every one provides himself for his Journey, and meets the Evening before at the place appointed, to be ready at the hour.
From Smyrna to Tocat, is thirty-five days journey with the Caravan, and the last time I went we made it thirty-eight from Pongarbachi.
The first day we travel'd eight hours through a Country whose prospect was not unpleasing, leaving some Villages more than a League from the Road; and we lodg'd in a Park, near the River Pactolus; which is a small River, the Sand whereof shines, and is of several colours. Which caus'd Antiquity to call Pactolus Golden-Sanded. It falls from the Mountain Tmolus, and after it has water'd the Territory of Sardis, mixes with the River Hermus, that throws it self into the Archipelago through the Gulf of Smyrna. The Mouth of it is not above two or three Leagues from the City, toward the North.
The next day in six hours we came to Durgout, a little City in a Plain. All Christians that live not in the Territories of the Grand Signor, and pass that way, once a Year pay Carrage, or a Tribute of four or five Crowns: but the Franks are exempt, both at Durgout and over all Turkie. There resides a Basha in this City; and we were constrain'd to stop there a whole day, because the Caravan that comes from Persia arriv'd at that time, so that they were forc'd to change their Camels.
The third day, after five hours travel in extremity of Heat, we came to lodge near a paltry Village.
​The fourth day we travel'd six hours, and stop'd near to a small River. In the Morning we pass'd over the Ruines of the ancient Sardis, the Capital City of Lydia, and Seat of King Crœsus. There were still to be seen the Ruines of a large Palace and two fair Churches, with a great number of Pillars and Corniches of Marble. This City having held out six Years against the Army of Temur-leng, who besieg'd it; so soon as he had taken it, in revenge he utterly destroy'd it. There is a Village near Sardis of the same Name, where stood the City, which was one of the Seven Churches mention'd in the Revelation. The fifth day we rode for seven hours through a Country but ill manur'd, and took up our Stage in a Plain upon the side of a River.
The sixth day we pass'd by the Walls of the ancient Philadelphia, call'd at present Allachars, which was also one of the Seven Churches of Asia. There is something of Beauty still remaining in those Walls, and the City is very large, but ill peopl'd. It is situated upon four little Hills, at the foot of a high Mountain over-looking a fair Plain to the North, that produces excellent Fruit. To witness its Antiquity, there is yet the Ruines of an Amphitheater, with certain Sepulchers, from whence the Inhabitants report that the European Christians took out the Bodies that were buried there, and transported them into Europe, believing them to be the Bodies of Saints. It is now all destroy'd, but re-built of Earth by the Turks after their mode. It was formerly one of the principal Cities of Mysia, and in regard it was alway very subject to Earthquakes, the most part of her Inhabitants liv'd in the Country. The last time I travel'd that way, in the year 1664, the seventeenth of June, the Turks were feasting and rejoycing upon the News, as they said, which they had receiv'd, of the defeat of the Christians in Candy. But the News was false, and only contriv'd to encourage the People; for the Grand Signor was then making Levies in those Parts. We lodg'd that day, after seven hours travel, upon the Bank of a small River, a League and a half from Philadelphia.
The seventh day we travel'd eleven hours over a Mountain, where those Trees plentifully grow that bear Galls, and Valanede, which is the shell or rind of an Acorn, that Curriers make use of to dress their Leather. We lodg'd in a Meadow on the top of a Mountain which is call'd Ijagli-bogase, or, The Mountain of Robbers.
The eighth day we continu'd our Journey over the same Mountain, which is a very barren Country where there is no Provision to be had. We travel'd but six hours, and lodg'd near a River in a Plain call'd Sarroucabaqui.
The ninth day the Caravan travel'd thorough dry Lands, where there is not one Village to be seen, and lodg'd near a Bridge built over a River call'd Copli-sou, in the Plain of Inahi.
The tenth day, after we had travel'd eight hours over an uneven and barren Country, we stopt in a Valley near a River call'd Bana-sou, the Water whereof is not good. In the Night there arose a Tempest that put us all in a disorder, and the Rain that fell was as cold as if it had been in the depth of Winter. We were wet to the Skins, and were forc'd to throw Coverlets over the Bales to keep the Goods from being spoyl'd.
The eleventh day we travel'd through a pleasant Country, between Vales adorn'd with a most delightful Verdure; and we were in view as we pass'd along of certain hot Baths, though very little regarded. We lodg'd upon the Banks of a small River, by the side whereof we had travel'd for some hours.
The twelfth day we continu'd our Road for six hours between the same Vallies, and lodg'd by a River.
The thirteenth day we travel'd eight hours, and stop'd near to a Village in a Country call'd Donagasse.
The fourteenth, after a Journey of seven hours we pass'd by the Walls of Aphiom-Carassar, that is, The Black City of Aphiom or Opium; because it has a Prospect over a fair and large Country well cultivated, where they sow great store of Poppies, whence they draw their Opium or Aphiom, as the Turks call it.
Aphiom-Carassar is a great City, dirty and ill built, the ancient Name whereof I could never learn, for the Greeks and Armenians are very ignorant. But according to all probability and the situation of the place, it ought to be the ancient Hierapolis situated upon the Mæander, a famous River of the Lesser Asia, that ​winds and turns the most of any River in the World. And indeed we are the more to seek, in regard the Turks change the ancient Names according to their own custom and pleasure, and give no other Names to Rivers than that of the principal City through which they pass; or else deriving their Names from the Colour of their Sands. There is to be seen in that City an ancient Castle of Free-stone upon the Point of a high Rock, separated from the Mountains that are next it toward the South, which make a Semicircle. All the Armenian Christians, Subjects to the King of Persia, passing thorough Aphiom-Carassar must there pay Carage, from which they are not exempted, though they have paid it before at Erzerom or elsewhere. The Caravan does not stop at Aphiom-Carassar, as well for that there are no Inns but what are ruin'd, as for that about a League farther there is a place where you have excellent Fish, and very cheap, and they of the City bring Barley, Straw, and other things which the Caravan wants. The Caravan therefore that day lodges upon the Banks of Mæander, which is to be cross'd over a Bridge not far distant from a small Village. In this River are great store of Crawfish and Carps; and the Fishermen will be sure to attend upon the Caravan. I have seen some Carps there above three Foot long.
The fifteenth our Caravan began to part it self, some for Tocat, some for the Road to Aleppo; the one part taking the right-hand Road toward the Winter-East, for Syria; the other the left-hand Road North-East, for Armenia.
After we were parted, we travel'd two or three hours in sight of one another. They that go to Aleppo, fall into Tarsus, where St. Paul was born, and from Tarsus to Alexandretta. But we continu'd our Road to Tocat, and after we had cross'd a great Plain, having travel'd six hours, we lodg'd in a Mershy place near a small Village. There is one thing remarkable in this Road as in many others, which manifests the Charity of the Turks. For in most of the high Roads, that are far from Rivers, they have set up Cisterns, whither when the Rains fail, the neighbouring Villages bring Water for the Travellers, who would else be very much distress'd.
The sixteenth we travel'd eight hours through a very even Country, but ill manur'd; where we saw a little City call'd Boulavandi. There are some Mosquees, which the Turks have built out of the Ruines of the ancient Greek Churches, from which they have taken Pillars of Marble, and other pieces of Architecture, to adorn their Sepulchers without any order at all, which you meet with very often upon the high Roads; the number is the greater, because they never lay two Bodies in one Grave. There is also in this City an Inn, cover'd with Lead, which is all the Beauty of it; nor do Travellers make any use of it but only in foul weather. We lodg'd a League and a half from the City, and staid there all the next day.
The seventeenth we travel'd eleven hours through a mix'd and uneven Country, and came to lodge in a Village where there are not above three or four Houses, though there be excellent Pasturage about it. There is no Water, but what is drawn out of three deep Wells; for which reason the place is call'd Euche-derin-giu.
The eighteenth we travel'd not above five hours through desert Countries, and took up our Stage in a kind of a Bog, near a pitiful Village.
The nineteenth, after we had travel'd eight hours through spacious desert Plains, we pass'd through a large Village, the Inhabitants whereof were gone with their Cattel into the Mountains, for the cool Air, during the Summer time, according to custom. There is an indifferent handsom Mosquee of Free-stone; and indeed the Village, the Name whereof the People told me was Tshaciclou, has been much bigger than now it is, as may appear by the Ruines. In two hours after we came to lodge beyond it in a Meadow, near a Rivulet.
The twentieth we cross'd over desert Plains, but which seem'd to have been formerly well manur'd; and after ten hours travel, we stop'd in a Bottom near a bad Water.
The twenty-first, for ten hours the Country was all barren and desert, and we came to lodge at the end of a long Plain, near two Wells, the Water whereof was good for nothing.
The twenty-second we travel'd through the fore-mention'd Plain, and met with little Valleys where there was very good Pasturage. The Caravan stop'd near to a pitiful Village, and a nasty Well.
​The twenty-third we travel'd not above five hours because it was the time of the Turks Beiram, or Easter, which our Caravan, consisting of Turks, would needs solemnize. That day we travel'd through an indifferent good Country, and well till'd, where we discover'd several fair Villages; and we lodg'd upon a rising Ground, from whence we had a very fair and far distant Prospect.
The twenty-fourth we travel'd six hours, and came to lodge in a Meadow where the Water was bad. Near to that place, we discover'd a Plain that extends it self eight or ten Leagues in length, though it be not above one or two in bredth: it seem'd like a Lake; and indeed it is only a salt Water congeal'd, and thickn'd into Salt, which you can hardly dissolve but in fair Water. This Lake furnishes almost all Natolia with Salt; where you may buy a Wagon-load drawn by two Bufalo's for 45 Sous. It is call'd Douslag, or The Place for Salt; and the Basha of Coushahar, about two days journey from it, gets by it 24000 Crowns a Year. Sultan Amurath caus'd a Dike to be cut quite thorough it when his Army march'd to the Siege of Bagdat, which he took from the Persian.
The twenty-fifth we travel'd nine or ten hours, and met not with one Village, the Country being all desert. We lodg'd upon a rising Ground, near a good Fountain call'd Cara-dache-cesmé, or, The Fountain of the Black Stone.
The twenty-sixth we pass'd through a great Village call'd Tshekenagar, in a pleasant situation, but very ill built; and after we had travel'd eight hours, we came to lodge in a delightful Meadow, near another Village call'd Romcouché.
The twenty-seventh we travel'd nine hours through Countries full of Licorice, and having pass'd a great Town call'd Beserguenlou, we lodg'd in a Meadow.
The twenty-eighth we cross'd a great River, call'd Jechil-irma, over a long well built stone Bridge. At the end of the Bridge call'd Kessré-kupri stands a great Village, wherein the greatest part of the Houses are built under Ground, like Foxes Holes. We put on farther, and after seven hours travel, we lodg'd below another great Village call'd Mouchiour, where there are abundance of Greeks, which they constrain ever and anon to turn Turks. The Country being inhabited by Christians, and fit for the Plantation of Vines, there is Wine good store, and very good, but it has the scent of the Wines of Anjou. The Village is well situated but ill built, most of the Houses being under Ground, in so much that one of the Company riding carelesly, had like to have faln into a House.
The twenty-ninth we rode for seven hours through a pleasant Country, where we saw several Villages; near to one of which the Caravan lodg'd in a Meadow, close by a Fountain.
The thirtieth we rode through a flat Country, well manur'd, and stop'd near a River wherein there was but very little Water: it is call'd Cara-sou, or, The Black River. For two or three days together, at every two Leagues distance we observ'd little Hillocks of Earth artificially rear'd, which they told us were rais'd during the Wars of the Greeks to build Forts upon, for Watch-Towers.
The thirty-first we travel'd a very uneven Country, but abounding in Wheat, and after we had travel'd nine hours, we lodg'd in a Meadow near a River, which we cross'd next Morning before day, over a stone Bridge.
The thirty-second, after we had travel'd eight hours, we lodg'd by a River, where we saw a great number of Turcomans: They are a People that live in Tents like the Arabians, and they were then leaving that Country to go to another, having their luggage in Wagons drawn by Bufalo's.
The thirty-second we met again with Mountains and Woods, which we had not seen in 18 days before, which had constrain'd us to carry Wood upon our Camels to dress our Provision: We were very sparing of it, and sometimes made use of dry'd Cows dung or Camels dung, when we came near the Waters where they were wont to drink. We travel'd eight hours that day, and lodg'd in a Meadow where the Grass was very high; yet where there had been Houses formerly standing.
The thirty-fourth we forded a deep and rapid River call'd Jangou, from the Name of the Town next to it. A little above the place where we forded it, we saw a ruin'd Bridge, which had been built over it.
The thirty-fifth we travel'd eight hours through a fair Valley well manur'd, and upon the left hand we left a Castle rais'd upon a Rock. The Caravan lay that night upon a rising Ground near a Village.
​The thirty-sixth we travel'd through the same Valley for eight or nine hours longer; in this Valley were several pleasant Villages, but we lay by a small River.
The thirty-seventh we travel'd six hours among the Mountains, where there are some very narrow Passages, but store of Water; and we lay in a Vale abounding in Pasturage.
The thirty-eighth we rode for four or five hours over a rugged Mountain in craggy way, at the foot whereof we met with a Village call'd Taquibac; from whence it is but five Leagues to Tocat. And these are all the Roads from Paris to Ispahan, through the Northern Territories of Turkie.