# The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier/Persian Travels/Book 1/Chapter 10

CHAP. X.
Of the Caravansera's, and Government of the Caravans.
The Caravansera's are the Eastern Inns, far different from ours; for they are neither so convenient, nor so handsom. They are built square, much like Cloysters, being usually but one Story high; for it is rare to see one of two Stories. A wide Gate brings ye into the Court; and in the midst of the Building, in the front, and upon the right and left hand, there is a Hall for Persons of the best Quality to keep together. On each side of the Hall are Lodgings for every man by himself. These Lodgings are rais'd all along the Court two or three Steps high, just behind which are the Stables, where many times it is as good lying as in the Chamber. Some will rather lye there in the Winter, because they are warm, and are roof'd as well as the Chambers. Right against the Head of every Horse there is a Nich with a Window into the Lodging-Chamber, out of which every man may see how his Horse is look'd after. These Niches are usually so large, that three men may lye in them; and there it is that the Servants usually dress their Victuals.
There are two sorts of Inns. For some are endow'd; where you may be receiv'd for Charities sake; others, where you must pay for what you call for. There are none of the first, but between Buda and Constantinople. Nor is it lawful for any others to build such, but only the Mother and Sisters of the Grand Signor, or such Viziers, and Basha's as have been three times in Battel against the Christians. In these Inns, which are built out of Legacies, there is a very good allowance of Diet to Travellers, and at your departure you have nothing to do but to thank the Benefactor. But from Constantinople to Persia, there are none of those endow'd Inns; only such where you have nothing but bare Walls. It is for you to provide Utensils for your Kitchin, and a Bed to lye on: as for Provision, the people bring Lambs, Pullets, Butter, and Fruits in their seasons: or else you may buy it, provided before-hand by the Master of the House. There you also meet with Barley and Straw for the Horses, unless it be in some few places that I have been at upon the Road. In the Country you pay nothing for your Chambers; but in the Cities you pay something, though it be but a small matter. Usually the Caravans never go into the Towns, which are not able to contain so many People and Horses. When you come to your Quarters every one looks after his own Chamber, for there is no regard to Poor or Rich: sometimes out of Breeding, or out of Interest, an ordinary Tradesman will give way to a great Merchant; but no man is permitted to leave the Chamber which he has once made choice of. In the night the Inn-keeper shuts up his Gates, being answerable for all things that shall be lost; for which reason he keeps a Guard about the Inn.
As for the Persian Caravansera's, they are more commodious, and better built than those of Turkie, and at more reasonable distances, throughout almost all the Country. By which description of Inns it is easie to observe, that though these Caravansera's are not so commodious for the Rich as our European Inns, yet they are more convenient for the Poor, to whom they never refuse to give admittance: no person being oblig'd to eat or drink more than he pleases; but every one being allow'd to spend according to his Stock, without grumbling.
You may travel in Turkie or Persia, either with the Caravan, or else in company, ten or twelve together, or else alone with a Guide. The safest way is to go with the Caravan, though you are longer upon the Road, by reason of the slowness of their march, especially when the Caravans consist of Camels.
The Caravans are as it were great Convoys, which consist of a good number of Merchants, that meet at certain times and places, to put themselves into a condition to defend themselves from Thieves, that are very rife in Troops in several desert places upon the Road. These Merchants choose among themselves a Caravan-Bashi, who orders them how they shall march, assigns the places of lodging at night, and who with the chief of the Caravan, is a kind of Judge of the differences that ​fall out by the way. There is no honest man that covets the employment; for the Caravan-Bashi, being to discharge several small duties upon the Road, however he behave himself, is still suspected for his fidelity. When the Turks are most numerous, they make choice of a Turk, when the Armenian Merchants are most, they choose an Armenian.
There are two sorts of Caravans. There are Caravans which consist of Camels, which are the most usual; in regard that Camels are cheap, and for that some Camels will carry as much as three Horses, others as much as four or five. But among the Caravans of Camels, there are several Horses and Mules, which the Merchants themselves ride upon; it being very tedious to ride upon a Camel when he only goes a foot-pace, but very pleasant when he goes upon his large trot. There are other Caravans that consist only of Horses; and among these, if the Merchant have none of his own, he may hire one. The Servants ride upon those Horses that are least laden; but at Smyrna you may meet with several good Horses very cheap, from thirty to sixty Crowns. As for those persons that are either unwilling or unable to be at any expence, they make use of Asses, of which there are enow to be had. Above all things, you must take care to provide Pack-Horses to carry your Wine; for the Camel-Masters being Mahometans, will not permit you to lade their Camels with any such Liquor; that Beast being particularly consecrated to Mahomet, who so strictly forbad the use of Wine. You put your Wine in Bottles made of wild Goats Skins, with the hairy side turn'd innermost, and well pitch'd within. There are some of these Bottles from which they take off the Hair; but they are not so good, as being seldom without holes.
These Camel-Masters are an insolent sort of people, which you shall never know how to deal with, unless you can bring them to punishment. There was one that play'd me some of his jades tricks in the Road from Smyrna to Tauris; but when I came to Escrivan, I complain'd to the Kan, who presently caus'd a hundred Bastnado's to be giv'n him upon the spot. Nor is there any other way to bring those Scoundrels to reason, especially at Smyrna and such other places, where the Merchants have their Consuls, who upon the least complaint to the Cady have Justice done them immediately. The examples of some of these Camel-drivers that have been paid off, keep the rest in good decorum; and they will be very tractable for a good while after.
The Journies of the Caravans are not equal; sometimes not above six hours travel, sometimes ten, and sometimes twelve; it being the convenience of Water, which is not every where to be met with, that is the Rule of Lodging the Caravan. At all times the Caravan travels more by night than by day in Summer to avoid the heat, and at other times, that you may be sure to have day enough to set up your Tents. For if the Caravan should come to pitch in the night, it would be impossible for them to find where to set up their Tents, to dress and look after their Beasts, make ready their Kitchins, and provide things necessary for so large a Company. True it is, that in the depth of Winter and in the great Snows, they seldom set out till two or three hours after midnight and that sometimes they stay till day-break. But in Summer, according to the Journey which they intend, they set out either at midnight, or an hour after Sun-set. The last time I went from Smyrna the Caravan consisted of six hundred Camels, and almost the same number of Horse. Sometimes their number is greater, so that the Camels going but by one and one after another, a Caravan seems to be an Army, and whether it be in travelling or lodging, they take up a world of Ground. Now by reason they travel all night in Asia, it happens that the Air is indifferent wholsom; and that the Travellers, that lye for the most part upon a Carpet spread upon the Ground, find themselves very little inconvenienc'd by it.
The Camels that go into Persia through the Northern Provinces of Turkie, travel like Horses in a Cart, by seven and seven; they are ty'd together by a Cord about the bigness of a Man's little Finger, and a Fathom long; fasten'd to the Pack-saddle of the Camel that goes before, and to the Head-harness of the Camel that follows. Those little Cords are made no stronger, to the end that if the Camel before should chance to fall into any hole, the Camel behind should either keep him up, or else not be pull'd in after the other. And to the end that the Camel-driver who leads the foremost, may know whether the other six follow him or no, the last Camel has a Bell about his Neck, which if it cease to ring, 'tis a sign that ​some one of the small Cords is broken, and that a Camel has got a mischance. The seventh Camel generally carries the Provisions. For if a Merchant have six Camels laden, he is generally allow'd one to carry his Provision; if he have but three, he is allow'd but half a Camel's load; but if he have nine or twelve, he pays nothing for the carriage of his Provisions of Food, or any thing else that he pleases. Every Merchant with his Servants rides by the Camels that are laden with his Goods, especially in the dark nights; for there are a subtil sort of Thieves, that have a trick to cut the two Cords behind and before, and without any noise drive the Camel out of the way; for having no Hoofs, his Feet cannot be shod, and consequently he makes no noise. As well Merchants, as others, Camel-drivers and Servants, keep themselves from sleeping sometimes by singing, and sometimes by taking Tobacco, and sometimes by discourse.
The Caravan lyes in such places as they think most convenient, chiefly near to the Water-side. When the Sun is set, the Shaoux, who are a sort of poor people, are diligent to guard the whole Field, and take care of the Goods. They walk up and down, and either in the Arabian or Armenian Dialect they cry one to another, God is one, and he is merciful; adding from time to time, Have a care of your self. When they see that the time grows near to set out, they give notice to the Caravan-Bashi, who gives order to bid them cry, Saddle your Horses; and after that, to cry again, Load. And it is a strange thing to consider, that upon the second Cry of the Shaoux every thing is ready upon an instant, and the Caravan begins to set forward in great order and great silence. Every one takes care to be ready, for it is dangerous to be left behind, especially in those Countries which are haunted with Thieves. The Wages of these Shaoux is the fourth part of a Piaster, for a Bale, from Smyrna to Erivan.
When the Stages are long, and that they believe that they shall not get thither by ten or twelve in the morning, every one carries two small Wallets on each side his Horse, and when they come to the place where they intend to Break-fast, they spread a Carpet upon the Ground and fall to.
When you go from Constantinople, Smyrna, or Aleppo with the Caravan, it behoves all people to carry themselves according to the mode of the Country; in Turkie like a Turk, in Persia as a Persian; else would they be accounted ridiculous, nay sometimes they would hardly be permitted to pass in some places, where the least miscarriage makes the Governours jealous, who are easily perswaded to take Strangers for Spies. Always, if you have upon the Road but an Arabian Vest, with a mean Girdle, whatever Clothes you wear under, there is no danger of passing any where. If you wear a Turbant, you must of necessity shave off your Hair, else it will never stay upon the Head. As for Beards, they never mind them in Turkie, the greatest being accounted the handsomest; but in Persia they shave their Chins, and wear their Mustaches: and I remember I have seen one of the King of Persia's Porters, whose Mustaches were so long, that he could tye them behind his neck, for which reason he had a double Pension. More than that, you must provide your self of Boots according to the custom of the Country: they are made of red, yellow, or black Cordovan, lin'd with Linnen cloth; and in regard they never reach higher than the Knee, they are as convenient to travel in as Shooes. As for Spurs, they never wear any, for the Iron at the upper end of the Stirrop, which is four-square, serves to spur the Horse: so much the better, because it is the custom of all Asia to ride very short.
Before you set out, you must provide your self of several Houshold-Goods, especially of those Bottles that are call'd Matares, which are made of Bulgary-Leather; every man carries his own at the Pummel of his Saddle, or else fasten'd to the Crupper of the Saddle behind. Besides these you must buy Borracho's, the most serviceable things in the World, for they will never break, and will hold above fifty Pints at a time. The smaller Bottles serve to put Aqua-vitæ in: and the Leather whereof they are made, has that peculiar to it self, that it keeps the Water fresh. Then you must provide Food, and make a provision of Rice and Bisket as far as Tocat: For as for Pullets, Eggs, and such like things, you meet with them almost every where; as also with Provision for your Horses, and new Bread, unless in some few places. You must also carry a Tent with all its appurtenances, with a Mattress; and Clothes to cover the Horses at night, especially in the time of the ​deep Snows, wherein you shall find them almost buried the next morning.
When the Caravan comes near the place where it intends to stop, every Merchant rides before to take up a convenient place for himself and his Goods, for which he covets a rising Ground, that if it should happen to rain, the Water may run from the Bales. They also in that case lay Stones under the Bales, and a Cloth over them; and the Servants make a Ditch about the Tent for the Water to run into. But if it be fair weather, there is no care tak'n to set up the Tent: or if it be, 'tis folded up after Supper; to the end the Owners may have the more liberty to look about them, and may be in a better condition to look after the Thieves. But if there be any likelihood of foul weather, the Tent is let stand till the first Cry of the Shaoux. The Horses are ty'd before the Tent with Cords fasten'd to a Nail, and their hinder Legs are ty'd with other Cords, to the end they may not stir out of their places. If it be not seasonable for them to eat Grass, you must buy Barley and Straw of the Country-men that come to serve the Caravan there being no Oats, neither in Turkie nor Persia.
In dressing your Victuals, you must follow the custom of the Country; which is, to make a Hole in the Ground, and then kindling a Fire in it, to set the Pot over it.
But the greatest inconvenience which Travellers suffer with the Caravans, is this, that when they come to Waters, which are only Wells, or Cisterns, or Springs, where only two or three can lade up Water at a time. For after the Caravan is lodg'd, the Merchants shall be forc'd to stay for Water two or three hours together; for they that belong to the Beasts of Carriage, will not suffer any person to take any Water, till the Camels, Horses, Asses, and Mules are all serv'd. Nor is there any contending with these Camel-drivers and Muleters; for as they are a rude sort of people, a Man runs the hazard of his Life by contesting alone: of which one Example may suffice for all.
Setting out one day from Bander-Abassi, for Ispahan, with a Merchant of Babylon, as we came to the Inn where we lay the first night, which was call'd Guetchy, the Merchant commanded one of his Slaves who was a Cafer of Mozambique, to fetch him some fresh Water, at the Cistern, to drink: The Cafer went thither, and return'd without any Water, telling his Master, that the Camel-drivers and Muleters threaten'd to beat him, and would not let him come near the Cistern. The Merchant either ill advis'd, or not knowing the custom, bid him go back, and kick those that refus'd him. Whereupon the Cafer returning, and finding the same resistance as before, began to give ill language to the Camel-drivers, so that one of them happen'd to strike him. Upon that the Cafer drawing his Sword, ran him into the Belly, so that he fell down dead: Thereupon the whole Rabble fell upon him, bound him, and carry'd him back to Bander-Abassi for the Governour to put him to death. The Master of the Cafer, accompany'd by several Merchants, went to the Governour and represented to him the insolence of those people, and how the business had happen'd. Upon which the Governour took the poor fellow out of their hands, and caus'd him to be kept safe; after that, he caus'd ten or a dozen of those Muleters to be seiz'd, and order'd them to be soundly bastinado'd, for hind'ring a Merchant's Servant from fetching Water for his Master. He also put others in Prison who had not been releas'd so soon, but at the request of those Merchants whose Goods they carry'd, and who stood in need of their service. The Governour spun out the business, on purpose that the rest might be gone: but as soon as they were all departed except the two Brothers of the party slain, he told them, he could not do them Justice, because their Brother belong'd to Schiras; so that all that he could do, was to send the Criminal thither. The Master of the Cafer being rich, and loving the Slave, made hast to Schiras, to tell his Story first to the Kan. And I remember, two days journey on this side Schiras, we met in the High-way abundance of poor people, the kindred of the party slain, who were staying for the Cafer, to carry him before the Kan, and to demand Justice. Two or three Leagues also from Schiras I met the Father and Mother, together with the Wife and Children of the deceas'd, who seeing me pass along, fell at my Feet and recounted to me their Grievances. I told them by my Kalmachi, that their best and surest way was to take a piece of Money of the Cafer's Master, and so to put up ​the business. This Proposal, that would have been accepted in Christendom, was rejected by those poor Mahometans; in so much that the Father tore his Beard, and the Women their Hair, crying out, That if it were the custom of the Franks to sell the Blood of their Kindred, it was not their custom so to do. When the rest of the kindred came with the Cafer to Schiras, the Kan did all he could to persuade the Widow to take Moneys but not being able to over-rule her, he was forc'd to give the Cafer into their hands: and how they us'd him I cannot tell, being constrain'd at the same time, to pass from Schiras for Ispahan.