# The History of the Isle of Man

THE HISTORY OF THE Isle of Man.
CONTAINING
WITH
LIKEWISE
AND ALSO
DUBLIN Printed by James Hunter, in Sycamore-Alley,
M.DCC.LXXX.
THE HISTORY OF THE ISLE of MAN.
BETWEEN Great Britain and Ireland, there is stretched out a considerable Island from N. to S. about 30 Italian Miles in Length, but where widest not above 15 in Breadth. The several antient Writers have given it various Names: By Cæsar, it is called Mona; by Ptolemy, Monæda; by Pliny, Monabia; and the same Variety appears in such of our modern Authors as make Mention of it. It was first inhabited by the Britons, then by the Scots or Picts, and afterwards by the Norwegians, who had it in their Possession a long Time. It since passed through a strange Diversity of Revolutions, and at length, fell into the Hands of the English about the latter End of Edward the First, and remains at this Day under their Jurisdiction. It has had several Lords; such generally as had the greatest Interest in our Princes; until the Grant thereof, together with the Patronage of it's Bishoprick, was ​made to Sir John Stanley, and his Heirs, by King Henry the Fourth.
Thus far the Account given by Mr. Moll, in his Compleat Geographer, may be depended on; but he is guilty of a gross Mistake, in saying the Soil is extremely fruitful, and produces Wheat, Rye and Barley in such Plenty, that it not only furnishes the Inhabitants, but likewise allows great Quantities to be exported. Whereas it is notoriously known, that the little Wheat they have is so bad, that those who eat Bread made of it have Corn brought from England or Ireland. As for Rye, I never saw any there. Barley for the most Part they have enough of, to make Malt for themselves, but never to send Abroad. Oats are their chief Produce, of which they make Bread, as also of Potatoes; the Land affording such Abundance, that Fields of them are as common as Grass.
As to the Seasons, three Parts of the Year is Winter, and the vast Quantity of Snow and Rain, that is almost continually falling, swells the Rivers to that Degree that they frequently overflow the Lands, and do much Damage; great Numbers of small Cattle, such as Sheep, Goats, and Hogs, being lost in them. Notwithstanding this, the Air is very wholesome, the Plague nor any other contagious Distemper having never been known there, and the People generally live to a very great Age.
The Black Cattle of this Island are excellently good, but small, as also their Sheep; it abounds in Hogs and Goats, Kid being as commonly eat there as Lamb in Ireland. They have great Store of Poultry of all Sorts, except Turkies, which being hard to rear, are not to be found but in particular Families. The near Neighbourhood of the Sea, and the Number of Rivers, afford very fine Fish of all Kinds, ​but especially Salmon and Cod: tho' Herrings are the chief Food of the poor People, which are salted up in the Season to last for the Whole Year.
The Island being very rocky, the Buildings are mostly Stone, I mean those which are inhabited by the Gentry, as for the others, they are no more than Cabins built with Sods, and covered with the same, except a few belonging to the better Sort of Farmers, which are thatched with Straw: but in the midst of the utmost Irregularity, they have two Conveniencies, which sometimes the best ordered Houses cannot boast of, the finest Brooks in the World running continually near them, and Turf, which makes a very sweet Firing, at their very Doors. Their Towns are six in Number, and called, 1. Castle-Town, or Russin. 2. Douglas. 3. Peel, or Pile. 4. Ramsay. 5. Ballasalli. 6. Maguire's, or New-Town.
Of these I shall give a particular Description, having spent a great deal of Time in examining several Curiosities and Antiquities which I believe no Author has yet ever treated on, but are very worthy of Observation. And first of Castle-Town.
It is the Metropolis of the Island, and the Place where most of the Persons of any Note chuse to have their Residence, because the Governor keeps his Court in it; the Castle is a fine antient Building, and has been honoured with the Presence of several of the Lords of Man. The Courts of Judicature are also kept here, and what Records of the Island are still remaining; but the greatest Part of them, in troublesome Times, were carried away by the Norwegians, and deposited among the Archives of the Bishops of Drunton in Norway, where they still remain; tho a few Years since, Mr. Stephenson, an eminent, worthy, and learned Merchant of Dublin, ​offered the then Bishop of Drunton a considerable Sum of Money for the Purchase of them, designing to restore and present them to the Island, but the Bishop would not part with them on any Terms.
The Abridger of Cambden's Britannia makes Mention of a little Isle within this Town, where Pope Gregory the Fourth erected an Episcopal See; but at present there is no such Place to be found: Nor is it probable it can have been swallowed up by the Sea, there being no low Ground, but a high mountainous Shore all along that Part of the Island. He farther says, that among the Hebrides, generally reckoned Forty-four in Number, was the Isle of Jona, lying between Ila and Scotland, and called by Bede, Hy or Hu; and that there was a Bishop's See erected in Sodor, a small Village, from which all the Islanders took the name of Sodorenses, being all contained in his Diocese. But nothing is more certain than that this Opinion is erroneous; for the Bishops of Man do not take their Title of Sodor from the Island so called; but from the Church at Peel, called Ecclesia Sodorenses, dedicated to our Saviour. This is not only maintained by Archbishop Spotswood, and the most judicious Antiquaries and Historians, but by the Tradition of the Natives themselves: Nor do I see any Reason to believe the Bishops of Man ever had any Jurisdiction over the Hebrides, because, were it so, some Accounts would have been handed down to Posterity by what Means they had lost it, and as there is nothing but the Name of Sodor to countenance that Opinion, the Objection against it may easily be answered by what I have said.
The great Officers of the Island are, first, the Governor, who, under the Lord of Man, has the entire Command of it; secondly, the two Deepsters, who are the Judges in Matters Civil and ​Criminal; thirdly, the Comptroller, who calls the Receiver General to an Account; and fourthly, the Receiver General, in whose Hands all the inferior Collectors deposite the Rents due to the Lord.
Just at the Entrance of the Castle is a great Stone Chair for the Governor, and two lesser for the Deempsters. There they try all Causes, except Ecclesiastick, which are entirely under the Decision of the Bishop. When you are past this little Court, you enter into a long winding Passage between two high Walls, not much unlike what I described of Rosamond's Labyrinth at Woodstock. In Case of an Attack, 10000 Men might be destroyed by a very few, in attempting to enter. The Extremity of it brings you to a Room where the Keys sit; they are 24 in Number, and are called the Parliament; but in my Opinion, they more resemble our Juries in Ireland; because the Business of their Meetings is to adjust Differences between the Common People, and are locked in until they have given their Verdict. They may be said, in this Sense, indeed, to be supreme Judges, because from them there is no Appeal but to the Lord himself.
A little farther is an Apartment which has never been opened in the Memory of Man; the Persons belonging to the Castle are very cautious in giving any Reason for it, but the Natives, who are excessively superstitious, assign this; that there is something of Enchantment in it. They tell you, that the Castle was, at first, inhabited by Fairies, and afterwards by Giants, who continued in the Possession of it until the Days of Merlin, who, by the Force of Magic, dislodged the greatest Part of them, and bound the rest in Spells, which they believe will be indissoluble to the End of the World: For Proof of this, they tell you a very odd Story: They say there are a great Number of fine ​Apartments under Ground, exceeding in Magnificence any of the upper Rooms; several Men of more than ordinary Courage, have in former Times ventured down to explore the Secrets of this subterraneous dwelling Place, but none of them ever returned to give an Account of what they saw; it was therefore judged convenient that all the Passes to it should be kept continually shut, that no more might suffer by their Temerity.——But about an Hundred Years since, a Person who has an uncommon Boldness and Resolution, never left solliciting Permission of those who has the Power to grant it, to visit those dark Abodes: in fine he gained his Request, went down, and returned by the Help of a Clue of Packthread, which he took with him, which no Man before him had ever done, and brought this amazing Discovery, viz. That after having passed thro' a great Number of Vaults, he came into a long narrow Place, which the farther he penetrated, he perceived he went more and more on a Descent, till having travelled as near as he could guess for the space of a Mile, he began to see a little Gleam of Light, which tho' it seemed to come from a vast Distance, yet was the most delightful Sight he had ever beheld in his Life. Having at length come to the End of that Lane of Darkness, he perceived a very large and magnificent House, illuminated with a great many Candles, whence proceeded the Light just now mentioned: having, before he begun this Expedition, well fortified himself with Brandy, he had Courage enough to knock at the Door, which a Servant, at the third Knock, having open'd, asked him what he wanted? I would go as far as I can, reply'd our Adventurer; be so kind therefore to direct me how to accomplish my Design, for I see no Passage but the dark Cavern thro' which I came. The Servant told him, he must go thro' that House, and accordingly led him thro' a long Entry, and out at a Back Door. He ​then walked a considerable Way, and at last beheld another House more magnificent than the first; and the Windows being all open, discovered innumerable Lamps burning in every Room. Here he designed also to knock, but had the Curiosity to stop on a little Bank which commanded a low Parlour; on looking in, he beheld a vast Table in the Middle of the Room of Black Marble, and on it extended at full Length, a Man, or rather Monster; for by his Account, he could not be less than 14 Feet long, and 10 or 11 Feet round the Body. This prodigious Fabrick lay as if sleeping, with his Head on a Book, and a Sword by him, of Size answerable to the Hand which 'tis supposed made Use of it. This Sight was more terrifying to the Traveller, than all the dark and dreary Mansions he had passed thro' in his Arrival to it: He resolved therefore not to attempt Entrance into a Place inhabited by Persons of that unequal Stature, and made the best of his Way back to the other House, where the same Servant re-conducted him, and told him, that if he had knocked at the second Door, he would have seen Company enough, but never could have returned. On which he desired to know what Place it was, and by whom possessed; but the other replied, that these Things were not to be revealed. He then took Leave, and by the same dark Passage got into Vaults, and soon after once more ascended to the Light of the Sun.
Ridiculous as this Narrative appears, whoever seems to disbelieve it, is looked on as a Person of a weak Faith: But though this might be sufficient to prove their Superstition, I cannot forbear making Mention of another Tradition they have, and of a longer Standing. I have already taken Notice that their most antient Records were taken away in a Norwegian Conquest, which renders it impossible to be certain how long the Island has been found out, ​or by whom. To make up this Deficiency, they tell you this History of it.
Some hundred Years, say they, before the Coming of our Saviour, the Isle of Man was inhabited by a certain Species, called Fairies, and every Thing carried on in a Kind of supernatural Manner; that a blue Mist hanging continually over the Land, prevented the Ships that passed by from having any Suspicion there was an Island. This Mist, contrary to Nature, was preserved by keeping a perpetual Fire, which happening once to be extinguished, the Shore discovered itself to some Fishermen, who were then in a Boat on their Vocation, and by them Notice was given to the People of some Country, (but what they do not pretend to determine) who sent Ships in order to make a further Discovery; that on their Landing, they had a fierce Encounter with the little People, and, having got the better over them, possessed themselves of Castle Russin, and by Degrees, as they received Reinforcements, of the whole Island. These new Conquerors maintained their Ground some Time but were at length beaten out by a Race of Giants, who were not extirpated, as I said before, until the Reign of Prince Arthur, by Merlin, the famous British Enchanter. They pretend also, that this Island afterwards became an Asylum to all the distressed Princes and great Men in Europe, and that those uncommon Fortifications made about Peel Castle were added for their better Security. But of this I shall treat more copiously when I come to the Description of that Place.
The Tradition of what happened on suffering the domestic Fire to be extinct remains in such Credit with the People, that not a Family in the Island to this Day, of the Natives, but keeps a small Quantity continually burning, no one daring to ​depend on his Neighbour's Vigilance in a Thing which he imagines is of so much Consequence; every one confidently believing, that if it should ever happen that no Fire were to be found throughout, most terrible Revolutions and Mischiefs would immediately ensue.
The Castle, as also the two Walls which encompass it, and are broad enough for three Persons to walk a-breast on, are all Freestone, which is the only Building in the Island of that Sort. Within the Walls is a small Tower adjoining to the Castle, where formerly State Prisoners were kept, but serves now as a Store House for the Lord of Man's Wines. It has a Moat around it, and Draw Bridge, and is a very strong Place. On the other Side of the Castle is the Governor's House, which is very commodious and spacious. Here are also fine Chapel, where Divine Service is celebrated Morning and Afternoon, and several Offices belonging to the Court of Chancery.
In this Town are the most regular Buildings in general of the whole Island, and within a short Mile of it Derby-Haven, which is by much the best Harbour they can boast of, and has a very strong Fort in the Mouth of it.
Douglas, so called from the two Rivers running into that Harbour, and call'd the Black and the Grey Waters, must fall next under our consideration, as being the Town of the most Trade; and tho' the Buildings are very indifferent, and the near Neighbourhood of the Sea, which sometimes runs mountain high, and in tempestuous Weather threatens the Inhabitants with an Inundation; yet is full of very rich and eminent Dealers. The Reason of which is Plain; the Harbour of it being the most frequented of any in the Island, by Dutch, Irish, and ​East-India Vessels, there is the utmost Opportunity that can be desired for carrying on the Smuggling Trade.
Peel, or Pile-Town, is so called from its Garrison and Castle; tho' in effect the Castle cannot properly be said to be in the Town, an Arm of the Sea running between them, which in high Tides would be deep enough to bear a Ship of 40 or 50 Tons, tho' sometimes quite drained of salt Water; but then it is supply'd with fresh by a River which runs from Kirk Jarmyn Mountains, and empties itself in the Sea. This Castle for its Situation, Antiquity, Strength and Beauty, might justly come in for one of the Wonders of the World. Art and Nature seem to have vied with each other in the Model, nor ought the most minute Particular escape the Observation.
As to it's Situation, it is built upon the Top of a huge Rock, which rears itself a stupendous Height above the Sea, with which, as I said before, it is surrounded. And also by natural Fortifications or other lesser Rocks, which render it unaccessible but by passing that little Arm of the Sea which divides it from the Town; this you may do in a small Boat, and the Natives, tucking up their Cloaths under their Arms, and pulling off their Shoes and Stockings, frequently wade it in low Tides. When you arrive at the Foot of the Rock, you ascend about 60 Steps, which are cut out of it, to the first Wall, which is immensely thick and high, and built of a very durable and bright Stone, though not of the same Sort with that of Castle Russin in Castle Town, and has on it four little Houses or Watch Towers, which overlook the Sea. The Gates are Wood, but most curiously arched, carved and adorned with Pilasters. Having passed the first, you have other Stairs, of near Half the Number with the former, ​to mount before you come at the second Wall, which, as well as the other, is full of Port Holes for Cannon, which are planted on Stone Crosses on a third Wall.
Being entered, you find yourself in a wide Plain, in the Midst of which stands the Castle, encompassed by four Churches, three of which Time has so much decayed, that there is little remaining besides the Walls, and some few Tombs, which seem to have been erected with so much Care, as to perpetuate the Memory of those buried in them, until the final Dissolution of all Things. The fourth is kept a little better in Repair, but not so much for it's own Sake, tho' it has been the most magnificent of them all, as for a Chapel within it, which is appropriated to the Use of the Bishop, and has under it a Prison, or rather Dungeon, for those Offenders who are so miserable as to incur the spiritual Censure; this is certainly one of the most dreadful Places that Imagination can form, the Sea running under it through the Hollows of the Rock with such a continual Roar, that you would think it were every Moment breaking in upon you, and over it are the Vaults for burying the Dead. The Stairs descending to this Place of Terrors are not above 30, but so steep and narrow, that they are very difficult to go down, a Child of 8 or 9 Years old not being able to pass them but Sideways. Within it are 13 Pillars, on which the whole Chapel is supported. They have a Superstition that whatsoever Stranger goes to see the Cavern out of Curiosity, and omits to count the Pillars, shall do something to occasion being confined there.
There are Places for Penance also under all the other Churches, containing several dark and horrid Cells; some have nothing in them either to sit or lie down on, others have a small Piece of ​Brickwork; some are lower and more dark than others, but all of them in my Opinion, dreadful enough for almost any Crime Humanity is capable of being guilty of, tho' tis supposed they were built with different Degrees of Horror, that the Punishment might be proportionate to the Faults of those Wretches who were to be confined in them. These have never been made Use of since the Times of Popery; but that under the Bishop's Chapel is the common and only Prison for all Offenders in the Spiritual Court; and to that the Delinquents are sentenced. But the Soldiers of the Garrison permit them to suffer their Confinement in the Castle, it being morally impossible for the strongest Constitution to sustain the Damps and Noisomeness of the Cavern even for a few Hours, much less for Months and Years, as is the Punishment sometimes allotted.
'Tis certain that there have been very great Architects in this Island; for the noble Monuments in this Church, which is kept in Repair, and indeed in the Ruins of the others also, shew the Builders to be Masters of all the Orders in that Art, tho' the great Numbers of Doric Pillars prove them to be chiefly Admirers of that.
Nor are the Epitaphs and Inscriptions on the Tombstones less worthy of Remark: the various Languages in which they are engraved testify by what a Diversity of Nations this little Spot of Earth has been possess'd. Tho' Time has defaced too many of the Letters to render the Remainder intelligible, yet you may easily perceive Fragments of the Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Arabian, Saxon and Irish Characters; some Dates yet visible, declare they were written before the Coming of Christ: and indeed if one considers the Walls, the thickness of them, and Durableness of the Stone of which they are composed, he must be sensible that a great ​Number of Centuries must pass before such strong Workmanship could be reduced to the Condition it now is. These Churches, therefore, were doubtless once the Temples of Pagan Deities, tho' since consecrated to the Worship or the true Divinity: and what confirms me more strongly in this Conjecture, is, that there is still a Part of one remaining, where stands a large Stone directly in Form and Manner like the Tripos's, which in those Days of Ignorance the Priests stood upon, to deliver their fabulous Oracles.
Thro' one of these old Churches there was formerly a Passage to the Apartment belonging to the Captain of the Guard, but is now closed up. The Reason they give you for it is a pretty odd one; but as I think it not sufficient Satisfaction to my curious Reader, to acquaint him with what Sort of Buildings this Island affords, without letting him know also what Traditions there are concerning them, I shall have a little Regard to the Censure of those Criticks, who find Fault with every Thing out of the common Road; and in this, as well as in all Places, where it falls in my Way, shall make it my Endeavour to lead him into the Humours and very Souls of the Manks People.
They say, that an Apparition, called in their Language, the Mauthe Doog, in the Shape of a large black Spaniel, with curled shaggy Hair, was used to haunt Peel Castle, and has been frequently seen in every Room, but particularly in the Guard Chamber, where, as soon as Candles were lighted, it came and lay down before the Fire, in Presence of all the Soldiers, who at length, by being so much accustomed to the Sight of it, lost great Part of the Terror they were seized with at it's first Appearance. They still, however, retained a certain Awe as believing it was an evil Spirit, which only waited' ​Permission to do them Hurt, and for that Reason, they forbore Swearing and all prophane Discourse while in it's Company. But tho' they endured the Shock of such a Guest when all together in a Body, none cared to be left alone with it; it being the Custom, therefore, for one of the Soldiers to lock the Gates of the Castle at a certain Hour, and carry them to the Captain, to whose Apartment, as I said before, the Way led thro' a Church; they agreed among themselves, that whoever was to succeed the ensuing Night, his Fellow in this Errand should accompany him that went first, and by this Means, no Man would be exposed singly to the Danger: For I forgot to mention that the Mauthe Doog was always seen to come from that Passage at the Close of Day, and return to it again as soon as the Morning dawned, which made them look on this Place as it's peculiar Residence.
One Night a Fellow being drunk, and by the Strength of his Liquor rendered more daring than ordinary, laughed at the Simplicity of his Companions, and tho' it was not his Turn to go with the Keys, would needs take that Office upon him, to testify his Courage. All the Soldiers endeavoured to dissuade him, but the more they said, the more resolute he seemed, and swore that he desired nothing more than the Mauthe Doog would follow him, as it had done the others, for he would try if it were Dog or Devil. After having talked in a very reprobate Manner for some Time, he snatched up the Keys, and went out of the Guard Room: In some Time after his Departure a great Noise was heard, but no Body had the Boldness to see what occasioned it, 'till the Adventurer returning, they demanded the Knowledge of him; but as loud and noisy as he had been at leaving them, he was now become somber and silent enough, for he was never heard to speak more: And tho' all the Time ​he lived, which was three Days, he was entreated by all who came near him, either to speak, or if he could not do that, to make some Signs, by which they might understand what had happened to him, yet nothing intelligible could be got from him, only, that by the Distortion of his Limbs and Features, it might be guessed that he died in Agonies more than are common in a natural Death.
The Mauthe Doog was, however, never seen after in the Castle, nor would any one attempt to go through that Passage, for which Reason it was closed up, and another Way made.
Having taken Notice of every Thing remarkable in the Churches, I believe my Reader will be impatient to come to the Castle itself, which, in Spight of the Magnificence the Pride of modern Ages has adorned the Palaces of Princes with, exceeds not only every Thing I have seen, but also read of, in Nobleness of Structure. Tho' now no more than a Garrison for Soldiers, you cannot enter into it without being struck with a Veneration, which the most beautiful Buildings of latter Years cannot inspire you with; the Largeness and Loftiness of the Rooms, the vast Eccho resounding thro' them, the many winding Galleries, the Prospect of the Sea, and the Ships, by Reason of the Heighth of the Place, seem but like Buoys floating on the Waves, make you fancy yourself in a superior Orb to what the rest of Mankind inhabit, and fill you with Contemplations the most refined and pure that the Soul is capable of conceiving.
It was in this Castle that Eleanor, Wife to Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, Uncle to King Henry VI. and Lord Protector of England, was confined, after being banished thro' the Malice of the Duke of Suffolk, and Cardinal of Winchester, who accused ​her of having been guilty of associating herself with Wizards and Witches, to know if her Husband would ever attain the Crown, and other treasonable Practices. Sir John Stanley, then Lord of Man, had the Charge of her, and having conducted her to the Island, placed her in this Castle, where she lived in a Manner befitting her Dignity, nothing but Liberty being refused: She appeared however so turbulent and impatient under this Confinement, that he was obliged to keep a Guard over her, not only because there were daily Attempts made to get her away, but also to prevent her from laying violent Hands on her own Life. They tell you, that ever since her Death, to this Hour, a Person is heard to go Stone Stairs of one of these little Houses on the Walls, constantly every Night as soon as the Clock has struck 12.
I shall now conduct my Reader from the Castle to the Town, which is long, but narrow, few People of any Distinction dwelling here; most of the Houses are but a better Sort of Cabins. Here is a very good Harbour, and much resorted by the Scotch and Irish Vessels.
Ramsay is the next Town of Note, and the Inhabitants, as the Buildings, are a Degree genteeler than those of Peel; but has no great Matter in it, worthy the Observation of a Traveller, except an excellent Harbour and good Fort.
Nor has Ballasalli any Thing to boast of, beside a fine River running thro' it, a good Air to whiten Cloth, and a Market for Fowls, where you may have the greatest Choice of any Place in the Island.
Maguire's, or New Town, was a waste Piece of Ground, 'till after the Accession of George I. to the Crown, when one Maguire, a Native of Ireland, ​and Tenant to Lord Derby, built a large House on it for himself, and several small ones to let out a yearly Rent. 'Tis yet, however, no more than a Village, but in Compliment to him is called a Town, and after his Name.
These Towns are divided into 17 Parishes, which I shall give you the Names of in the Order they stand in the Register.
Kirk Jarmyn, Kirk Patrick, Kirk Michael, Kirk Ballaugh, Kirk Jurby, Kirk Bride, Kirk Candras, Kirk Christlesare, Kirk Mahal, Kirk Lennon, Kirk Canton, Kirk Braddon, Kirk Maroan, Kirk St. Ann, Kirk Merlugh, Kirk Carbra, and Kirk Christ Russin.
As to their Laws, they are but few, but severely executed, especially, as I before observed, those of the Ecclesiastical Court, the Clergy holding a Kind of tyrannical Jurisdiction over the Manks People, in Spight of the temporal Power, which is continually endeavouring to abate the Rigour of it, but in vain: For these spiritual Masters are, in a Manner, idolized by the Natives; and they take Care to maintain their Authority, by keeping the Laity in the most miserable Ignorance.
How little the Methods taken by this Court to prevent Fornication have succeeded may be known by the great Number of Offenders, who are every Sunday doing Penance for it in their Churches. If the least Familiarity is observed between Persons of a different Sex, they are immediately summoned to the Communion Table, and there obliged to swear themselves innocent, or endure the Shame and Punishment ordained for the Crime of Fornication. This they call Purging, but it is so far from being worthy of that Name, that many, to ​avoid public Disgrace, add the Sin of Perjury. One Instance of which I shall only mention.
A Widow at Douglas, being of a light Behaviour, was frequently suspected to be guilty of Fornication, and accordingly was summoned, and took the Oath of Purgation, how truly the Sequel will prove. As she was one Evening going Home, she was accosted by a Stranger, I think he was of Wales, and Master of a Vessel; what Discourse passed between them is unknown, nor is it of much Consequence, any farther than that they agreed to go together to her Lodgings, where having made him very drunk, she rifled his Pocket of Ten Guineas, and then made a Pretence to get him down Stairs: But he no sooner came into the Air, than it deprived him of all the little Sense the Liquor had left him; and being unable to reel any farther, he lay down at the Door, and fell into a sound Sleep. When waked, he missed his Money, and remembered the Encounter he had with the Woman, but could not be certain if she had taken it from him, or whether he might not have been robbed as he was asleep. On relating the Story however to his Landlady, she persuaded him to make his Complaint, and procure Leave to search the Lodgings of this Woman. The Advice was followed, and the Officers, being very diligent in their Scrutiny, found in her Bosom one Guinea, under a Heap of Ashes a second, and good Part of the Change of another. As she was exceeding poor, and had nothing to subsist on, but what she got by daily Labour from House to House, 'twas easy to believe this was none of her own Money; they therefore doubted not but they should find the Remainder of what the Captain had lost, which indeed they did, and with it a most shocking Discovery, in turning up the Bed: Under it lay a Parcel of small Bones, and seeming to be Human, they sent immediately for ​two Surgeons, named Jenkinson and Ball, who, on joining them together, made the perfect Anatomies of three Children; the Back Bone of one of the had been cleft thro' with a Hatchet. Every one was struck with the utmost Horror at this Sight, except the inhuman Mother and Murderess, who impudently owned they were all her own Children that she had been delivered of in private, to avoid Punishment, but pretended in her Defence that they were still-born. She was then asked, Why she did not bury them? To which she answered, That was not the Business of any Body, they were her own; and being dead, she might dispose of them as she pleased: Perhaps, added she, I had a Mind to keep them by me for Sake of those who begot them. She was carried to Prison under the double Indictment of Theft and Murder; and being unable to alledge any Thing in her Justification, was condemned to Death, and accordingly executed. 'Twas remarked if this Woman, when under Sentence, being asked, Why she had not buried the Children, since she might have easily had an Opportunity? replied, That designing to throw them into the River, she took up the Bones in her Apron one Night, but, as she was going, was met by a tall black Gentleman, who bid her go back, adding, she was safe while she kept them at Home, but if she attempted to conceal them either in Earth or Water, she would certainly be discovered.
Whether this miserable Creature saw any such Apparition or not, or whether it was the Will of God that she should imagine she saw and heard what in Effect was nothing, I will not pretend to determine; but it's plain that Divine Justice, who seldom suffers Murder to go unpunished, even on Earth, was very visible in compelling her to take the only Means which could detect her.
The Earl of Derby's (stiled Lord of Man) utmost ​Endeavours have not been wanting to curb the assuming Power of the Ecclesiasticks. As for Example, when the Summer comes to apprehend any Person for an Offence committed, or said to be committed, in that Court, had the Person so seized Courage enough to refuse going to Prison under his Conduct, he cannot be compelled, because the Soldiers of the Garrison have Orders from their Commanders never to be aiding nor assisting to any such Commitments. Hence it follows, that the spiritual and temporal Powers are at the extremest Odds with each other; and were it not for the blind Obedience the Laity pay to their ghostly Fathers, the former would soon be subjected.
'Tis this Ignorance which is the Occasion of the excessive Superstition that reigns among them. I have already given some Hints of it, but not enough to shew the World what a Manks Man truly is, and what Power the Prejudice of Education has over weak Minds. I know not, Idolizers as they are of the Clergy, whether they would not be even refractory to them, were they to preach against the Existence of Fairies, or even against their being commonly seen: For tho' the Priesthood are a Kind of Gods among them, yet still Tradition is a greater God than they; and as they confidently assert that the first Inhabitants of the Island were Fairies, so do they maintain that these little People have still their Residence among them. They call them the Good People, and say they live in Wilds and Forests, and on Mountains, and shun great Cities because of the Wickedness acted therein; all the Houses are blessed where they visit, for they fly Vice. A Person would be thought impudently profane, who would suffer his Family to go to Bed without first having set a Tub or Pail full of clean Water, for these Guests to bathe themselves in, which the Natives aver they constantly ​do, as soon as the Eyes of the Family are closed wherever they vouchsafe to come. If any Thing happens to be mislaid, and found again in some Place where it was not expected, they presently tell you a Fairy took it, and returned it. If you chance to get a Fall, and hurt yourself, a Fairy laid something in your Way to throw you down, as a Punishment for some Sin you have committed.
I have heard many of them protest they have been carried insensibly great Distances from Home, and, without knowing how they came there, found themselves on the Top of a Mountain. One Story in particular was told me of a Man who had been led by invisible Musicians for several Miles together; and not being able to resist the Harmony, followed until it conducted him to a large Common, where were a great Number of little People sitting round a Table, eating and drinking in a very jovial Manner: Among them were some Faces whom he thought he had formerly seen, but forbore taking any Notice, or they of him, until the little People offering him Drink, one of them, whose Features seemed not unknown to him, plucked him by the Coat, and forbad him, whatever he did, to taste any Thing he saw before them; for if you do, added he, you will be as I am, and return no more to your Family. The poor Man was much affrighted, but resolved to obey the Injunction; accordingly a large Silver Cup filled with some Sort of Liquor, being put into his Hand, he found an Opportunity to throw what it contained on the Ground. Soon after the Musick ceasing, all the Company disappeared, leaving the Cup in his Hand; and he returned Home, though much wearied and fatigued. He went the next Day, and communicated to the Minister of the Parish all that had happened, and asked his Advice, how he should dispose of the Cup? To which the Parson replied, he could not do ​better than to devote it to the Service of the Church; and this very Cup, they tell me, is that which is now used for the consecrated Wine in Kirk Merlagh.
Another Instance they gave me to prove the Reality of Fairies, was of a Fiddler, who having agreed with a Person, who was a Stranger, for so much Money, to play to some Company he should bring him to, all the Twelve Days of Christmas, and received Earnest for it, saw his new Master vanish into the Earth the very Moment he had made the Bargain. Nothing could be more terrified than the poor Fiddler was. He found he had entered himself into the Devil's Service, and looked on himself as already damned; but having Recourse also to a Clergyman, he received some Hope: He ordered him however, as he had taken Earnest, to go when he should be called; but that whatever Tunes should be called for, to play none but Psalm Tunes. On the Day appointed, the same Persn appeared, with whom he went, tho' with what inward Reluctance 'tis easy to guess; but punctually obeying the Minister's Directions, the Company to whom he played were so angry, that they all vanished at once, leaving him at the Top of a high Hill, and so bruised and hurt, tho' he was not sensible when, or from what Hand he received the Blows, that he got Home with the utmost Difficulty.
The old Story of Infants being changed in their Cradles is here in such Credit, that Mothers are in continual Terror at the Thoughts of it. I was prevailed upon myself, to go and see a Child, who, they told me, was one of these Changelings, and indeed must own was not a little surprized, as well as shocked, at the Sight. Nothing under Heaven could have a more beautiful Face; but tho' between ​five and six Years old, and seemingly healthy, he was so far from being able to walk or stand, that he could not as much as move any one Joint. His Limbs were vastly long for his Age, but smaller than an Infant's of six Months. His Complexion was perfectly delicate, and he had the finest Hair in the World. He never spoke nor cried, eat scarce any Thing, and was very seldom seen to smile, but if any one called him a Fairy Elf, he would frown, and fix his Eyes so earnestly on those who said it, as if he would look them through. His Mother, or at least his supposed Mother, being very poor, frequently went out a Chairing, and left him a whole Day together. The Neighbours, out of Curiosity, have often looked in at the Window to see how he behaved when alone, which whenever they did, they were sure to find him laughing, and in the utmost Delight. This made them judge that he was not without Company more pleasing to him that any Mortals could be; and what made this Conjecture seem the more reasonable was, that if he were left ever so dirty, the Woman, at her Return, saw him with a clean Face, and his Hair combed with the utmost Exactness and Nicety.
A second Account of this Nature I had from a Woman, to whose Offspring the Fairies seemed to have taken a particular Fancy. The fourth or fifth Night after she was delivered of her first Child, the Family were alarmed with a most terrible Cry of Fire; on which, every Body ran out of the House to see whence it proceeded, not expecting the Nurse, who, being as much frighted as the others, made one of the Number. The poor Woman lay trembling in her Bed alone, unable to help herself, and her Back being turned to the Infant, saw not that it was taken away by an invisible Hand. Those who had left her, having enquired about the Neighbourhood, and finding there was no Cause for the ​Outcry they had heard, laughed at each other for the Mistake; but as they were going to re-enter the House, the poor Babe lay on the Treshold, and by its Cries preserved itself from being trod upon. This exceedingly amazed all that saw it, and the Mother being still in bed, they could ascribe no Reason for finding it there, but having been remov'd by Fairies, who, by their sudden Return, had been prevented from carrying it any farther.
About a Year after, the same Woman was brought to Bed of a second Child, which had not been born many Nights before a great Noise was heard in the House where they kept their Cattle; (for in this Island, where there is no shelter in the Fields from the excessive Cold and Damps, they put all their Milch Kine into a Barn, which they call a Cattle House.) Every Body was stirring, and ran to see what was the Matter, believing the Cattle had got loose: The Nurse was as ready as the rest, but finding all safe, and the Barn-Door close, immediately returned, tho' not so suddenly but that the newborn Babe was taken out of the Bed, as the former had been, and dropt on their coming, in the Middle of the Entry: This was enough to prove the Fairies had made a second attempt; and the Parents sending for the Minister, join'd with him in Thanksgiving to God, who had twice delivered their Children from being taken from them.
But in the Time of her third Lying in, every Body seemed to have forgot what had happened in the first and second, and, on a Noise in the Cattle House, ran out to know what had occasioned it. The Nurse was the only Person, excepting the Woman in the Straw, who staid in the House; nor was she detained through Care, or Want of Curiosity, but by the Bonds of Sleep, having drank a little too plentifully the preceding Day. The ​Mother who lay awake, saw her Child lifted out of the Bed, and carried out of the Chamber, tho' she could not see any Person touch it; on which she cried out as loud as she could, Nurse! Nurse! my Child! my Child is taken away! But the old Woman was too fast to be awakened by the Noise she made, and the Infant was irretrievably gone. When her Husband, and those who had accompanied him, returned, they found her wringing her Hands, and uttering the most piteous Lamentations for the Loss of her Child. The Husband, looking into the Bed, said, the Woman is mad; do you not see the Child lying by you? On which she turned, and saw something indeed like a Child, but different from her own, who was a very beautiful, fat, well-featured Babe; whereas what was now in the Room of it was a poor, lean, withered, deformed Creature. It lay quite naked, but the Cloaths belonging to the Child that was exchanged for it lay wrapped up altogether on the Bed.
This Creature lived with them near the Space of nine Years, during which Time it eat nothing, except a few Herbs, now was it ever seen to void any other Excrement than Water: It neither spoke, not could it stand or go, but seemed enervate in every Joint, like the Changeling I mentioned before, and in all its Actions shewed itself to be the of the same Nature.
A Woman, who lived about two Miles distant from Ballasalli, and used to serve my Family with Butter, made me once very merry with a Story she told me of her Daughter, a Girl of about 10 Years old, who being sent over the Fields to the Town, for a pennyworth of Tobacco for her Father, was on the Top of a Mountain surrounded by a great Number of little Men, who would not suffer her to pass any farther. Some of them said ​she should go with them, and accordingly laid hold of her: But one, seeming more pitiful, desired they would let her alone; which they refusing, a Quarrel ensued, and the Person who took her Part fought bravely in her Defence. This so incensed the others, that to be revenged on her for being the Cause, tow or three of them seized her, and pulling up her Cloaths, whipped her heartily; after which, it seems, they had no farther Power over her, and she run Home directly, telling what had befallen her, and shewing her Buttocks, on which were the Palms of several small Hands. Several of the Town's People went back with her to the Mountain, and she conducting them to the Spot, the little Antagonists were gone, but had left behind them Proofs (as the good Woman said) that what the Girl had informed them was true; for there was a great deal of Blood to be seen on the Stones. This she did aver with all the Solemnity imaginable.
Another Woman, equally superstitious and fanciful as the former, told me, that, being great with Child, and expecting every Moment the good Hour, as she lay awake one Night in her Bed, she saw seven or eight little Women come into her Chamber, one of whom had an Infant in her Arms. They were followed by a Man of the same Size of themselves, but in the Habit of a Minister. One of them went to a Pail, which stood in the Room, and, finding no Water in it, cried out to the others, what must we do to christen the Child? On which they replied, it should be done in Beer. With that the seeming Parson took the Child in his Arms, and performed the Ceremony of Baptism, dipping his Hand into a great Tub of strong Beer, which the Woman had brewed the Day before, to be ready for her Lying in. She told me, that they baptised the Infant by the Name of Joan, which made her know she was pregnant of a Girl, as it proved a ​few Days after, when she was delivered. She added also, that it was common for the Fairies to make a mock Christening when any Woman was near her Time, and that according to what Child, Male or Female, she brought, such should the Woman bring into the World.
But I cannot give over this Subject without mentioning what they said befel a young Sailor, who, coming off a long Voyage, tho' it was late at Night, chose to land, rather than lie another Night in the Vessel: Being permitted to do so, he was set ashore at Douglas. It happened to be a fine Moon-light Night, very dry and frosty; he therefore forbore going into any House to refresh himself, but made the best of his Way to the House of a Sister he had at Kirk Merlagh. As she was going over a pretty high Mountain, he heard the Noise of Horses, the Hollow of a Huntsman, and the sweetest Horn in the World. He was a little surprized that any Body pursued those Kinds of Sports in the Night, but he had not Time for much Reflection before they all passed by him, so that he was able to count what Number there were of them, which, he said, were 13, and that they were all dressed in green, and gallantly mounted. He was so well pleased at the Sight, that he would gladly have followed, could he have kept Pace with them. He crossed the Foot Way however, that he might see them again, which he did more than once, and lost not the Sound of the Horn for some Miles. At length he arrives at his Sister's, and tells her the Story, who presently clapped her Hands of Joy, that he was come Home safe; for, said she, those you saw were Fairies, and it is well they did not take you away with them.
There is no persuading them but that these Huntings are frequent in the Island, and that these little Gentry, being too proud to ride on Manks Horses, ​which they could find in the Fields, make Use of English and Irish ones that are brought over and kept by Gentlemen. They say nothing is more common than to find these poor Beasts, in a Morning, all over in a Sweat and Foam, and tired almost to Death, when their Owners have believed they were not out of the Stable. A Gentleman of Ballafletcher assured me, he had four of his best Horses killed with these nocturnal Journies.
At my first coming into the Island, and hearing these Stories, I imputed the giving Credit to them merely to the Simplicity of the poor Creatures who related them; but was strangely surprized when I heard other Narratives of this Kind, and altogether as absurd, attested by Men who passed for Persons of sound Judgment. Among this Number was a Gentleman, my dear Neighbour; who affirmed with the most solemn Asseverations, that, being of my Opinion, and entirely averse to the Belief that any such Beings were permitted to wander for the Purposes related of them; he had been at last convinced by the Appearance of several little Figures playing and leaping over some Stones in a Field, whom, at a few Yards Distance, he imagined were School boys, and intended when he came near enough, to reprimand them, for being absent from their Exercises at that Time of the Day, it being then, he said, between 3 and 4 o'Clock: But when he approached as near as he could guess, within twenty Paces, they all immediately disappeared, though he had never taken his Eye off them from the first Moment he beheld them; nor was there nay Place where they could so suddenly retreat, it being an open Field, without Hedge or Bush, and, as I said before, broad Day.
Another Instance which might serve to strengthen the Credit of the others, was told me by a Person, ​who had the Reputation of the utmost Integrity. This Man being desirous of disposing of a Horse he had at that Time no great Occasion for, and riding him to Market for that Purpose, was accosted, in passing over the Mountains, by a little Man in a plain Dress, who asked him if he would sell his Horse? 'Tis that Design I am going on, replied the Person who told me the Story. On which the other desired to know the Price. Eight Pounds, said he. No, resumed the Purchaser, I will give no more than seven; which, if you will take, here is your Money. The Owner thinking he had bid pretty fair, agreed with him, and the Money being told out, the one dismounted, and the other got on the Back of the Horse, which he had no sooner done, than both Beast and Rider sunk into the Earth immediately, leaving the Person who had made the Bargain in the utmost Terror and Consternation. As soon as he had a little recover'd himself, he went directly to the Parson of the Parish, and related what had passed, desiring he would give his Opinion, whether he would make Use of the Money or not. To which he replied, that, as he had made a fair Bargain, and no Way circumvented, nor endeavoured to circumvent, the Buyer, he saw no Reason to believe, in Case it was an evil Spirit, it could have any Power over him. On this Assurance he went home well satisfied, and nothing afterwards happened to give him Disquiet about this Affair.
A Second Account of the same Nature I had from a Clergyman, and a Person of more Sanctity than the generality of his Function in this Island. It was his Custom to pass some Hours every Evening in a Field near his House, indulging Meditation, and calling himself to an Account for the Transactions of the past Day. As he was in this Place one Night, more than ordinarily wrapt in Contemplation, he wandered, without thinking where he was, a ​conſiderable Way farther than it was usual for him to do; and as he told me, he knew not how far the deep Musing he was in might have carried him, if it had not suddenly been interrupted by a Noise, which at first he took to be the distant Bellowing of a Bull, but as he list'ned more heedfully to it, found there was something more terrible in the Sound, than could proceed from that Creature. He confess'd to me, that he was no less affrighted than surprized, especially when the Noise coming still nearer, he imagined, whatever it was that it proceeded from, it must pass him: he had, however, presence enough of Mind to place himself with his Back to a Hedge, where he fell on his Knees, and began to pray with all the Vehemence so dreadful an Occasion required. He had not been long in that Position, before he beheld something in the Form of a Bull, but infinitely larger than any he had seen in England, much less in Man, where the Cattle are very small in general. The Eyes, he said, seemed to shoot forth Flames, and the running of it was with such Force, that the Ground shook under it as in an Earthquake. It made directly towards a little Cottage, and there, after most horribly roaring, disappear'd. The Moon being then at the Full, and shining in her utmost Splendor, all these Passages were perfectly visible to our amazed Divine, who having finished his Ejaculations, and giving thanks to God for his Preservation, went to the Cottage, the Owner of which they told him was that Moment dead. The good old Gentleman was loath to pass a Censure which might be judged an uncharitable one; but the Deceased having the Character of a very ill Liver, most People who heard the Story, were apt to imagine that this Apparition came to attend his last Moments.
A mighty Bustle they also make of an Apparition, which they say haunts Castle-Russin, in the Form ​of a Woman, who was some Years since executed for the Murder of her Child. I have heard not only Persons, who have been confined there for Debt, but also the Soldiers in the Garrison, affirm they have seen it various Times: But what I took most notice of, was the Report of a Gentleman, of whose good Understanding, as well as Veracity, I have a very good Opinion. He told me, that happening to be abroad late one Night, and catched in an excessive Storm of Wind and Rain, he saw a Woman stand before the Castle Gate, where being not the least Shelter, it something surprized him, that any Body, much less one of that Sex, should not rather run to some little Porch, or Shed, of which there were severali n Castle-Town, than chuse to stand still exposed and alone, to such a dreadful Tempest. His Curiosity exciting him to draw nearer, that he might discover who it was that seemed so little to regard the Fury of the Elements, he perceived she retreated on his Approach, and, at last, he thought, went into the Castle, tho' the Gates were shut: This obliging him to think he had seen a Spirit, sent him Home very much terrified, but the next Day, relating his Adventure to some People who lived in the Castle, and describing as near as he could, the Garb and Stature of the Apparition, they told him it was that of the Woman above-mentioned, who had been frequently seen by the Soldiers on guard to pass in and out of the Gates, as well as to walk thro' the Rooms, tho' there were no visible Means to enter.
Another Story of the like Nature, I have heard concerning an Apparition which has frequently been seen on a wild Common near Kirk-Jarmyn Mountains, which, they say, assumes the shape of a Wolf, and fills the Air with most terrible Howlings.
But having run on so far in the Account of supernatural Appearances, I cannot forget what was told me by an English Gentleman and my particular Friend. He was about passing over Douglas Bridge before it was broken down, but the Tide being high, he was obliged to take the River, having an excellent Horse under him, and one accustomed to swim. As he was in the Middle of it, he heard, or imagined he heard, the finest Symphony, I will not say in the World, for nothing human ever came up of it. The Horse was no less sensible of the Harmony than himself, and kept in an immoveable Posture all the Time it lasted; which, he said, could not be less than three Quarters of an Hour, according to the most exact Calculation he could make, when he arrived at the End of his little Journey, and found how long he had been coming. He, who before laugh'd at all the Stories told of Fairies, now became a Convert, and believed as much as ever a Manks Man of them all.
As to Circles in the Grass, and the Impression of small Feet among the Snow, I cannot deny but I have seen them frequently, and once thought I heard a Whistle, as tho' in my Ear, when no Body could make it was near me.
For my Part I shall not pretend to determine if such Appearances have any Reality, or are only the Effect of the Imagination; but as I had rather give Credit to them, than to be convicted by occular Demonstration, I shall leave the Point to be discussed by those who have made it more their Study; and ​only say, that whatever Belief we ought to give to some Accounts of this Kind, there are others, and much more numerous, which merit only to be laughed at; it not being at all consonant to Reason, or the Idea Religion has given us of the fallen Angels, to suppose Spirits so eminent in Wisdom and Knowledge, as to be exceeded by nothing but their Creator, should visit the Earth for such trifling Purposes as to throw Bottles and Glasses about a Room, and a thousand other as ridiculous Gambols mentioned in those voluminous Treatises of Apparitions.
The Natives of this Island tell you also, that before any Person dies, the Procession of the Funeral is acted by a Sort of Beings, which for that End render themselves visible. I know several that offered to make Oath, that as they have been passing the Road, one of these Funerals come behind them, and even laid the Bier on their Shoulders, as tho' to assist the Bearers. One Person who assured he had been served so, told me the Flesh of his Shoulder had been very much bruised, and was black for many Weeks after.
There are few or none of them who pretend not to have seen or heard these imaginary Obsequies, (for I must not omit that they sung Psalms in the same Manner as those who do accompany the Corpse of a dead Ftiend) which so little differ from real ones, that they are not to be known 'till both Coffin and Mourners are seen to vanish at the Church Doors. These they take to be a sort of friendly Demons, and their Business, they say, is to warn People of what is to befal them. Accordingly they give Notice if any Strangers approach, by the trampling of Horses at the Gate of the House where they are to Arrive. As difficult as I found it to bring myself to give any Faith to this, I have frequently been very much surprized, when on visiting ​a Friend, I have found the Table ready spread, and every thing in order to receive me, and being told by the Person to whom I went, that he had Knowledge of my coming or some other Guest, by these good-natured Intelligencers. Nay, when obliged to be absent some time from Home, my own Servants have assured me they were informed by these Means of my Return, and expected me the very Hour I came, tho' perhaps it was some Days before I hoped it myself at my going abroad. That this is Fact, I am positively convinced by many Proofs; but how or wherefore it should be so, has frequently given me much Matter of Reflection, yet left me in the same Uncertainty as before. Here, therefore, will I quit the Subject, and proceed to Things much easier to be accounted for.
The first of these were Gold, the next Silver, and all the others Brass. But there were many which I believe of greater Antiquity, but so much impaired, that it was impossible for the nicest Eye to take the Impression.
Having mentioned these Curiosities, I must not omit one, which, is true, was a much greater, and afforded more Matter of Speculation to the Age it was found in, than any I have named. It was a Man perfect in all his Limbs and Features, and, what is yet more wonderful, in his Habit; though, by the Make of it, he must have lain under ground upwards of an Hundred Years. This extraordinary Discovery, they say, happened no longer ago than in the Reign of King Charles the First: there are persons now living, who assured me their Fathers saw it; and from hence they infer the Wholesomeness of their Climate, since the Earth of itself, only by being kept close, could preserve a human Body, unemboweled, unembalmed, from being corrupted, or even his Cloaths from Rottenness or Decay. But as greatly as I have heard this Story averred, I do not set it down, either here, or in my own Mind, for undoubted Verity, but leave it to the Pleasure of my Reader to believe, as he thinks most reasonable, concerning this, as well as the many other Prodigies of Nature, which no Man can give a full Account of this Island without mentioning.
Among others, I know none which more justly may be called so, at least, of those which I am convinced of the Truth of, than that of the Water Bull. An amphibious Creature, which takes its Name from the so great Resemblance it has of that Beast, that many of the People, having seen him in a Field, have not distinguished from one of the more natural Species: nor have the Cows any Instinct to avoid him, tho' if any happen to copulate with him, as ​they frequently do, the Creature they conceive, never has Life or any due Formation, but seems a rude Lump of Flesh and Skin without Bones, and seldom brought forth without the Death of the Cow.
A Neighbour of mine who kept Cattle, had his Fields very much infested with this Animal, by which he had lost several Cows: he therefore, placed a Man continually to watch, who bringing him Word, that a strange Bull was among the Cows, he doubted not but it was the Water Bull, and having called a good Number of lusty Men to his Assistance who were all armed with great Poles, Pitch-forks and other Weapons proper to defend themselves, and be the Death of this dangerous Enemy; they went to the place where they were told he was, and run altogether at him: but he was too nimble, and after tiring them over Mountains, and Rocks, and a great Space of stony Ground, he took a River, and avoided any further Chace by diving down into it, tho' every now and then he would shew his Head above Water, as if to mock their skill. I heard of a Person however, who being perplex'd in this Manner by one of these Water Bulls, had more Cunning, taking a gun with him, charged a Brace of Bullets, shot him as he was going into the River.
As to any Buildings of great Antiquity in this Island, there are now no Remains after Castle-Russin, and Peel Castle, with the Churches about it, but the Nunnery, and the Fort at Douglas, each of which I shall describe in a particular Manner.
That which is called the Nunnery, is situate in a good pleasant part of the Country, about Half a Mile from Douglas, and tho' now entirely out of Repair, except one small part of it, where the present Major has his Residence, shews in its Ruins ​that few Monasteries once exceeded it, either in Largeness or fine Building. There are still some of the Cloysters remaining, the Cielings of which discover they were the Workmanship of the most masterly Hands, nothing in the whole Creation but what it imitated in curious Carvings on it. The Pillar supporting the Arches are so thick, as if that Edifice was erected with a Design to baffle the Efforts of Time; nor could it, in more Years have elapsed, since the Coming of Christ, have been so greatly defaced, had it received no Injury but from Time: but in some of the dreadful Revolutions this Island has sustained, it doubtless has suffered much from the Outrages of the Soldiers, as may be gather'd by the Niches yet standing in the Chapel (which has been one of the finest in the World) and the Images of the Saints reposited in them being torn out, which could not have happened but by Force.
Here have also been many curious Monuments, the Inscriptions of which, tho' almost worn out, yet still retain enough to make the Reader know the Bodies of very great Persons have been reposited here. There is plainly to be read on one of them, Illustrissima Matilda filia——And a little lower, on the same Stone,
——Rex Merciæ——
I think there is great Probability to believe that this was Matilda, the Daughter of Ethebert, one of the Kings of England, of the Saxon Race, since both Stow and Hollingshed, agree that Princess died a Recluse: but as there is no Certainty, the Date being erased, I shall leave it to my Reader to think of it according to Pleasure.
But I am entirely of Opinion that Cattesmunda ​the fair Nun of Winchester, who fled from the Violence threatened her by King John, took Refuge in this Monastery, and was buried; because there is very plainly to be read,—Cartesmunda Virgo Immaculata. These Words remain so legible, that I doubt not but the whole Inscription would have been so too had not some barbarous and sacrilegious Hands broke the Stone, leaving only one Corner of it, which is supported by a Column, and on the Base the Date is perfectly fresh.
Anno Domini 1230.
Several fine Figures, which seemed designed by way of Hieroglyphic, have also been both the Ornaments and Explanation of these Tombs; but now demolished, that one can only know by the Fragments they have been too excellent not to have merited a better Fate.
In the midst of a small square Court behind this Chapel is a sort of a Pyramid of reddish Stones cemented with Clay, on which formerly stood a Cross; and near it have been many fine Monuments, tho' not so magnificent as those within the Chapel. From this Place you may go down by a gradual Descent to a Cell, built all of white Stone, where stood the Confessional Chair; but this also lies in Ruins: as does a great Gate, which, they say, was once exceeding fine, and was never opened but at the Initiation of a Nun, or the Death of a Lady Abbess. Some Pieces of broken Columns are still to be seen up and down the Ground, but the greatest Part have been removed for other Uses. There are a vast Number of Caverns under Ground, some of which were built for Places of Penance, others for Convenience. In some are narrow Stone Benches, which by the excessive Dampness, are overgrown with Moss, but all are dark, and the very Entrance ​to them choaked up with Weeds and Briars; so little Veneration do the present Inhabitants of this Island pay to the Antiquity, or the Memory of what was so precious to their Forefathers, who were formerly so very religious, that when they went abroad, they put on a Winding-sheet, to shew they were not unmindful of Death.
Tho' the Rivers in this Island afford great Plenty of excellent Water, a Well belonging to this Nunnery is said to have exceeded them all; but has been notwithstanding the many extraordinary Properties ascribed to it, of late suffered to dry up.
Here have also been many spacious Gardens for Convenience and Pleasure of the Nuns, but I have heard a melancholy Account of the severe Trial put on those who were suspected to have been guilty of falsifying their Vows of Chastity.
Over a Place called the How of Douglas, which is the Extent of the Earl of Derby's Dominion on the Sea, there is a Rock vastly high and steep, about the Middle of which is a hollow not very different from the Fashion of an Elbow-Chair, and near the Top, another much like the former. Whether these are made by Art of Nature, I cannot pretend to determine, nor did I ever hear: but on the slightest Accusation, the poor Nun was brought to the Foot of this Rock, when the Sea was out, and obliged to climb to the first Chair, where she sat till the Tide twice ebbed and flowed. Those who had given a greater Cause of Suspicion, went up to the second Chair, and sat the same Space of Time. Those who endured this Trial, and descended unhurt, were cleared of the Aspersion thrown upon them. But in my Opinion, the Number of the Fortunate could not be great, for besides the Danger of Climbing the rugged and steep Rock, (which now very ​few Men can do above 30 or 40 Paces) the extreme Cold when you come to any Height, the Horror of being exposed alone to all the Fury of the Elements, and the horrid Prospect of the Sea, roaring through a thousand Cavities, and foaming round you on every Side, is enough to stagger the firmest Resolution and Courage, and without all Question been the Destruction of many of those unhappy Wretches.
The Fort of Douglas, which commands the Bay, is a very antient Building, but kept in good Repair. They say that the great Caratack, Brother of Bonduca, Queen of Britain, concealed here his young Nephew from the Fury of the Romans, who were in Pursuit of him, after having vanquished the Queen, and slain all her other Children. There is certainly a very strong and secret Apartment under Ground in it, having no Passage to it but a Hole, which is covered with a large Stone; and is called to this Day, The Great Man's Chamebr.
The antient Inhabitants of this Island seem to have taken great Delight in subterraneous Dwellings, for there is not one old Building in it, which has not an equal Number of Rooms under Ground as above, and sometimes as much, if not more, richly ornamented with Carvings, and the Floors covered with Stone of different Colours, which makes them appear as if inlaid, and are very beautiful to the Eye. This therefore one may be bold to say without injuring the Truth, that however unpolite and savage those who now call themselves the Natives of Man may be, it had in it, in some Ages of the World, Persons of the most delicate and elegant Taste, and who in all their Customs favoured of a Disposition rather inclined to the Romantick than the Rustick, as they are at this Time ​degenerated, even to the greatest Degree that can be imagined.
My Reader will easily perceive how little I derogate from the Genteelness of their Manners, when I shall tell him that Knives, Forks or Spoons are in so little Use with them, that at those Houses which are counted the best, excepting the Governor's, the Bishop's, and the Lord Steward's, you shall not find above three or four Knives at a Table, where, perhaps, there are twenty Guests, ad as for Forks, they seem not to know what to do with them; for is a Manks Man or Woman, happens to be invited to an English Family, nothing can be more aukward than their attempting to make Use of them. They are admirably dextrous in dissecting a Fowl with their Fingers, and if the Operation happens to be more than ordinary difficult, they take one Quarter in their Teeth, and with both their Hands wrench the Limbs asunder. This I have seen done among very wealthy People, and who would not deny themselves these Conveniences, if they thought them of any Consequence. Nay, so incorrigible are they in this Humour, that though, whenever invited by the English or Irish, they find these Utensils at every Plate, they will not return the Complaisance at their own Entertainments. This Behaviour, at my first coming, put me in Mind of Æsop's Stork, who invited the Fox to Dinner on Viands in long-necked Bottles; for I found good Provision, but no Means to come at it. But on my growing better acquainted with the Custom of the People, I carried in future a Knife, Fork and Spoon in my Pocket.
In their Sports they retain something of the Arcadian Simplicity. Dancing, if I may call it so, jumping and turning round at least, to the Fiddle or Bass Viol, is their great Diversion. In Summer, ​they have it in the Fields, and in Winter, in the Barns. The Month of May is every Year ushered in with a Ceremony which has something in the Design of it pretty enough, and, I believe, will not be tiresome to my Reader in the Account.
I must not here omit that the first Course at a Manks Feast is always Broth, which is served up, not in a Soup Dish, but in wooden Piggins, every Man his Mess. This they do not sup with Spoons, but with Shells, which they call Sligs, very like our Mussel Shells, but much larger.
Christmas is ushered in with a Form much less meaning, and infinitely more fatiguing. On the 24th of December, towards Evening, all the Servants in general have a Holiday, they go not to Bed all Night, but ramble about 'till the Bells ring in all the Churches, which is at 12 o'Clock; Prayers being over, they go to hunt the Wren, and after having found one of these poor Birds, they kill her, and lay her on a Bier with utmost Solemnity, bringing her to the Parish Church, and burying her with a whimsical Kind of Ceremony, singing Dirges over her in the Manks Language, which they call her Knell; after which Christmas begins. There is not a Barn unoccupied the whole twelve Days, every Parish hiring Fiddlers at the publick Charge; and all the Youth, nay sometimes People well advanced in Years, making no Scruple to be among these nocturnal Dancers. At this Time there never fails of some Work being made for Kirk Jarmyns; so many young Fellows and Girls meeting in these Diversions, Nature too often prompts them to more close Celebrations of the Festival, than those the Barn allows; and many a Hedge has been Witness of Endearments, which Fear of Punishment has afterwards made both forswear at the holy Altar in Purgation. On Twelfth Day the Fiddler lays his Head in some one of the Wenches Laps, and a third Person asks, who such a Maid or such a Maid shall marry, naming the Girls then present one after another; to which he answers according to his own Whim, or agreeable to Intimacies ​he has taken Notice of during this Time of Merriment. But whatever he says is absolutely depended on as an Oracle; and if he happens to couple two People who have an Aversion to each other, Tears and Vexation succeed the Mirth. This, they call, Cutting off the Fiddler's Head; for after this, he is dead for the whole Year.
This Custom still continues in every Parish, and if any young Lad or Lass was denied the Privilege of doing whatever came into their Heads, they would look on themselves as infinitely injured. This Time is indeed their Carnival, and they take and are allowed more Liberties than, methinks, are consonant with their Strictness in other Cases.
The young Men here are great Shooters with Bows and Arrows. There are frequently Shooting Matches, Parish against Parish, and Wagers laid, which Side shall have the better.
As for publick Shows, there are none of any Kind exhibited in this Island, so that the only Diversion of the better Sort of People is Drinking, which, indeed, they have an excellent Opportunity to indulge; the best Wines, Rum and Brandy being excessively cheap, and a Man may drink himself dead, without much Expence to his Family.
They have no Fairs worth mentioning, except two, which are kept at Kirk Patrick, the one at Midsummer, and the other just after Michaelmas. To these the good Housewives bring Thread and Worsted of their own Spinning to be wove, and here also you may buy any Sort of Linen or Woollen Cloth the Country produces, but none else. They sell no Trinkets at these Fairs, as at the Irish ones, nor much Eatables, besides Butter and Fowls, which Commodities are brought in Creels, a Sort ​of Baskets made of Straw, which they hang over their Horses Necks, in the Manner of Panniers, and will contain a great Quantity.
As to their Horses, they are generally fleet, but small, and very hardy; they wear no Shoes, eat no Corn, nor ever go into Stable; but when they come off a Journey, tho' the Weather be ever so bad, are only turned loose to graze before their Doors, or in an adjoining Field.
Nor are their owners of much less hardy Constitutions; the greatest part of them, of both Sexes, go barefoot, except on Sundays, or when they are at Work in the Field, and have then only small Pieces of Cows, or Horses Hide, at the Bottom of their Feet, tied on with a Packthread, which they call Carrans. Their Food is commonly Herrings, and Potatoes; for, notwithstanding the great Plenty of Salmon, Cod, Eels, Rabbits and Wild-fowl of all sorts, the ordinary People either cannot, nor will not afford themselves any thing else. They are, however, exceeding strong: I have seen a little Woman tuck up her Petticoats, and carry a very lusty Man on her Back through the River, and this they frequently do for a Piece of Money, the Water being too deep for any but the Natives to pass on Foot.
Angling and Shooting would be agreeable Diversions for Gentlemen here, were not the Air so extremely cold and anguish. 'Tis certain that there is not a Place in the known World, which affords finer Fish; I have seen Eels of six Foot long, and Salmon of between four and five Foot long, and wonderfully sweet and luscious: not is their Wild-fowl inferior to any, especially the Woodcocks and Teal. They have also a Kind, which I never heard of any where else; it is called a Puffen, and is of a ​grey Colour, with a white Breast, somewhat bigger than a tame Pigeon, and is good Food to be eat fresh, only it is too fat, and has something of a fishy Taste; but is excellent when potted and pickled, and will last for a whole Year. These Birds are taken in a Place called the Calf of Man, where they breed in great Quantities in the Holes of the Rocks. They both fly, and swim and dive in the Water like Ducks. The best Time for taking them, is in the latter End of July, and the Beginning of August.
Rabbits are in such Plenty, especially in the Months of August and September, that they may be bought for a Penny a-piece, returning the Skins, which are sent to England and Ireland by Persons who come over every Year, on purpose to import them.
But as the Herring Fishery is the most talked of abroad of any thing appertaining to this Island, I believe my Reader will be surprized that I have so long been silent on that Head: To comply therefore with his Expectation, and discharge, as well as in me lies, the Duty of an Historian, I shall give as perfect an Account of it as possible.
Tho' Herrings are taken all round this Island, yet the main Body of the Fisher-Boats go out from Port Iron, where the Fishermen are attended by a Clergyman, who joins with them in a solemn Form of Prayer, on the Sea-side, to Almighty God, that he will be pleased to favour their Undertaking, and bless their Nets with Plenty. 'Tis the Opinion of many a learned Man, that there is no created Being on Earth, of which there is not a Similitude in the Sea, and the Creatures which I have sometimes seen brought up with the Herrings, seem to confirm the Truth of this Conjecture. Nothing is more common, than for their Nets to be broke with the Weight of a Fish which they call a Sea-Calf; and, ​indeed, in the Head, and all the upper Parts, differ nothing from those we see in the Field. But what does them the most Damage is the Dog Fish, which, by Reason of it's Largeness, tears the Nets in such a Manner, that they lose the Herrings thro' the Holes, and bring up no other Prize than that, of which nothing but the Skin is of any Value. This was so great a Grievance, that formerly they put up publick Prayers in all the Churches, that the Dog Fish might be taken from them; after which they lost their whole Trade, for the Dog Fish was taken from them, and with it the Herrings also, neither of them coming near the Seas all that Season: On which they changed their Tone, and prayed with more Vehemence for the Return of the Dog Fish, than they did before for it's Departure. God was pleased, they say, to listen to their complaint, and on their next going out, sent them both Herrings and Dog-Fish, tho' not in such Abundance as before. Whether this is Fact, or not, I will not pretend to say; it, however, affords a good Moral, that we ought not to expect only Blessings from the Hand of Heaven: some Evil must be mingled with the Good, to the End we may be more dependent on Divine Providence; we should else be too apt to forget out Duty, and, perhaps look on the Comforts we receive as our Due, and the just Reward of our Actions.
I believe there are few People, who have not heard of Mermaids and Mermen, tho' I never met with any, who looked on them as any thing more than the chimerical Tritons and Amphitrites of the Poets, till accidentally falling in Company with a Manksman, who had used the Sea for many Years, he told me, he had frequently seen them, and endeavoured to make me believe his Assertion true, by a thousand Oaths and Imprecations. I happening to mention this at Port-Iron, they seemed to wonder at my Incredulity, and gave me the following Narration.
In the Time, said they, that Oliver Cromwell usurped the Protectorship of England, few or no Ships resorted to this Island, and that Uninterruption and Solitude of the Sea, gave the Mermen and Mermaids (who are Enemies to any Company but those of their own Species) frequent Opportunities of visiting the Shore, where, in Moonlight Nights, they have been seen to sit, combing their Heads, and playing with each other; but as soon as they perceived any Body coming near them, they jumped into the Water, and were out of sight immediately. Some People who lived near the Coast, having observed their Behaviour, spread large Nets, made of small but very strong Cords, upon the Ground, and watched at a convenient Distance for their Approach. The Night they had laid this Snare, but one happened to come, who was no sooner set down, than those who held the Strings of the Net, drew them with a sudden Jerk and enclosed their Prize beyond Possibility of escaping.
On opening their Net, and examining their Captive, by the Largeness of her Breasts, and the beauty of her Complexion, it was found to be a Female; nothing, continued my Author, could be more lovely, more exactly formed, in all parts above the Waist, ​resembling a compleat young Woman, but below that, all Fish, with Fins, and a huge spreading Tail. She was carried to a House, and used very tenderly, nothing but Liberty being denied. But tho' they set before her the best Provision the Place afforded, she could not be prevailed on to eat or drink, neither could they get a word from her, tho' they knew these Creatures were not without the Gift of Speech, having heard them talk to each other, when sitting regaling themselves on the Sea-side. They kept her in this Manner three Days, but perceiving she began to look very ill with fasting, and fearing some Calamity would befal the Island if they sould keep her till she died, they agreed to let her return to the Element she liked best, and the third Night set open their Door; which, as soon as she beheld, she raised herself from the Place where she was then lying, and glided with incredible Swiftenss, on her Tail, to the Sea-side. They followed at a Distance, and saw her plunge into the Water, where she was met by a great Number of her own Species, one of whom asked what she had observed among the People on Earth; nothing very wonderful answer'd she, but that they are so very ignorant, as to throw away the Water they boil their Eggs in. This Question, and her reply, they told me, was distinctly heard by those who stood on the Shore to watch what passed.
As I had not yet attained a thorough Knowledge of the Superstition of these People, nor the passionate Fondness for every thing that might be termed, The Wonderful; I was excessively surprized at this Account, given with so serious an Air, and so much, and solemnly averred for Truth. I perceived they were not a little disgusted at my want of Faith, but to make a Convert of me, they obliged me to listen to another, as odd an Adventure as the former, which they assured me was attested by a whole ​Ship's-Crew, and happened in the Memory of some then living.
There was about forty or fifty Years since a Project set on Foot, for searching for Treasures in the Sea; accordingly Vessels were got ready, and Machines made of Glass, and cased with a thick tough Leather, to let the Person down who was to dive (in my Opinion dearly purchased) for Wealth. One of these Ships happening to sail near the Isle of Man, and having heard the great Persons formerly taken Refuge there, imagined there could not be a more likely Part of the Ocean to afford the Gain they were in search of than this. They, therefore, let down the Machine, and in it, the Person who had undertaken to go on this Expedition; they let it down by a vast Length of Rope, but he still plucking it, which was the Sign of those above to encrease the Quantity, they continued to do so till they knew he must be descended an infinite Number of Fathoms. In fine, he gave the Signal so long, that, at last, they found themselves out of Cord, their whole Stock being too little for his capacious Inquisition. A very skilful Mathematician being on Board, said, that he knew by the Proportion of the Line which was let down, he must have descended from the Surface of the Waters more than twice the Number of Leagues that the Moon is computed to be distant from the Earth. But having, as I said, no more Cord, they were obliged to turn the Wheel, which, by degrees, brought him up again; at their opening the Machine, and taking him out, he appeared very much troubled, that this Journey had so soon been at period, telling them, that could he have gone a little farther he should have brought Discoveries well worth the Search. It is not to be supposed but every Body was impatient to be informed of what kind they were; and being all gathered about him on the main Deck, as soon as he had recruited ​himself with a hearty Swill of Brandy, he began to relate in this Matter.
After, said he, I had passed the Region of Fishes, I descended into a pure Element, clear as the Air in the serenst and most unclouded Day, through which, as I passed I saw the Bottom of the watry World, paved with Coral, and a shining Kind of Pebbles which glittered like the Sun Beams reflected on a Glass. I longed to tread the delightful Paths, and never felt more exquisite Delight than when the Machine I was enclosed in, grazed upon it. On looking through the little Windows of my Prison, I saw large Streets and Squares on every side, ornamented with huge Pyramids of Crystal, not inferior in brightness to the finest Diamonds; and the most beautiful Buildings, not of Stone or Brick, but of Mother o'Pearl, and embossed in various Figures, with shells of all Colours. The Passage which led to one of these magnificent Apartments bein open, I endeavoured with my whole Strength to move my enclosure towards it, which I did, tho' with great difficulty and very slowly. At last, however, I got Entrance into a very spacious Room, in the midst of which stood a large Amber Table, with several Chairs round the same. The Floor of it was composed of rough Diamonds, Topaz's, Emeralds, Rubies and Pearls. Here I doubted not but to make my Voyage as profitable as it was pleasant, for could I have brought with me but a few of these, they would have been of more Value than all we could hope for in a thousand Wrecks; but they were so closely wedg'd in, and so strongly cemented by Time, that they were not to be unfasten'd. I saw several Chairs, Carcanets and Rings, of all Manner of precious Stones, finely cut, and set after our Manner; which, I suppose had been the Prize of the Winds and Waves: These were hanging loosely on the Jasper Walls, by Strings made of Rushes ​which I might easily have taken down, but as I had edged myself within Half a Foot Reach of them, I was unfortunately drawn back, thro' your Want of Line. In my Return, I saw several comely Mermen and beautiful Mermaids, the Inhabitants of this blissful Region, swiftly descending towards it; but they seemed frighted at my Appearance, and glided at a Distance from me, taking me, no Doubt, for some monstrous and new-created Species.
Here, said my Authors, he ended his Account, but grew so melancholy, and so much enamoured of these Regions he had visited, that he quite lost all Relish for earthly Pleasures, 'till continual Pinings deprived him of his Life; having no Hope of ever descending there again, all Design of prosecuting the Diving Project being soon after laid aside.
With the same Confidence the Truth of these Narratives were asserted, did I hear a Sailor protest, that it was a common Thing, when they were out at Sea, and too far for the Voice of any Thing on Land to reach their Ears, for them to hear the Bleating of Sheep, the Barking of Dogs, the Howling of Wolves, and the distinct Cries of every Beast the Land affords.
I should, however, have doubtless heard many other Accounts of the like Nature, if, by my saying little in Answer to them, and a certain Air of Ridicule, which they observed in my Countenance, and which, in Spite of my Endeavours to the contrary, I was not able to refrain, they had not perceived that it was vain to attempt bringing me over to their Side.
And now having given as full an Account as I am able, of the Wonders they relate of the subterranean and subterraqueous World, let me proceed to what is to be found by those who venture not such rash Expedients in the Search of Curiosities. And first of their Mountains.
They have many of a very great Height, but there are three much superior to the others. The first is called Snafles, from the Top of which you may see England, Scotland and Ireland. The next, Barool. And the third, Carrahan. Under these, they tell you, lie the Bodies of the three Kings, from whose Names the Mountains take their Denomination, as they had their Rise from their Burials: For having in those Days no Notion of Architecture, or erecting Monuments, the only Way they had of perpetuating the Memory of the Dead was to throw a huge Pile of Earth over them: Every Body, in passing, for a great Number of Ages, thinking themselves obliged to contribute towards the pious Work, and throwing on a little, according to their Strength or Time they were Masters of, has raised them to the stupendous Height they are now arrived at, especially that of Snafles, under which we may suppose, either the greatest, most antient, or most beloved Monarch lies. These rude Mausoleums seem, methinks, to shame the Pride of the modern Architecture, being likely to ​continue, when those built of Marble, with all their vain Infinity of Expence and Art, will be crumbled into Dust, and driven into the Air, the Sport of every wanton Wind.
The Bridges of any Consequence in this Island are nine in Number, and called,
Castle Town Bridge. This is built of Stone, kept in good Repair, is of a handsome Breadth, and so high, that a Boat with a Mast may sail under it.
Ballasalli Bridge. This is the oldest Bridge in the Island, and built also of Stone.
Kirk Braddon Bridge. This is a strait Stone Bridge, and a fine River runs under it, called the Dark River. Here is great Plenty of Fish, especially Eels.
Douglas Bridge. This was lately broken down by the Rapidity of the River. A Woman who was going over it with a Bottle of Brandy in her Hand, just when the Accident happened, was saved by the Stiffness of her Hoop Petticoat, which kept her above Water.
Nunnery Bridge. This Bridge has a Stone Foundation, but is boarded over and railed in, by Reason of the Turbulence of the River, which sometimes threatens to overflow it. Here they bring their Leather to soak.
Laxey Bridge. This is the most beautiful of any in the Island, has handsome Seats to sit on, and is built over a fine River, which runs between two great Hills.
Peel Bridge. Under this is the most famous River in the Island; it comes from Kirk Jarmyn Mountains, ​and runs into the Sea, by the great Rock, on which stands Peel Castle.
The Mislaroat's Mill Bridge. This is a small Bridge, but built of Stone, and much frequented.
Kirk Maroan Bridge. A fine River coming from Kirk Maroan Mountains, runs under this Bridge to Kirk Santon.
There are besides these, several small Bridges, but not the twentieth Part sufficient for the Convenience of the Inhabitants; yet, notwithstanding a Proposal was made for building as many as were wanted, on every Housekeeper's paying the Sum of 1d. per Year for nine Years, it was not complied with.
Having spoken of the Manks Frugality or rather Sordidness in their Way of Eating, I must not omit making an Exception to this Rule at three several Times, which are their Weddings, their Christenings, and their Funerals.
As to the first, 20l. is a good Portion for a Mountaineer's Daughter, and they are so exact in the Marriage Bargain, that I have known many who called themselves hot Lovers, break off for the Sake of a Pig being refused in the Article. Yet, notwithstanding this, a Stranger cannot be invited to one of their nuptial Feasts without believing himself in a Land of the utmost Plenty and Hospitability. The Match is no sooner concluded, than besides the Bans of Matrimony being publickly asked in the Church three Sundays, Notice is given to all the Friends and Relations on both Sides, tho' they live ever so far distant. Not one of these, unless detained by Sickness, fail coming, and bring something towards the Feast; the nearest of Kin, if ​they are able, commonly contribute most, so that they have vast Quantities of Fowls of all Sorts. I have seen a Dozen of Capons in one Platter, and six or eight fat Geese in another; Sheep and Hogs roasted whole, an Ox divided but into Quarters.
They have Bride Men and Bride Maids, who lead the young Couple as in England, only with this Difference, that the former have Ozier Wands in their Hands as an Emblem of Superiority; they are preceded by Musick, who play all the while before them the Tune of The Black and the Grey, and no other is ever used at Weddings. When they arrive at the Church Yard, they walk three Times round the Church before they enter it. The Ceremony being performed, they return Home, and sit down to Feast, after which they dance in the Manks Fashion, and between that and Drinking pass the Remainder of the Day.
Their Christenings are not less expensive, the whole Country round are invited to them, and after having baptized the Child, which they always do in the Church, let them live ever so far distant from it, they return to the House, and spend the whole Day and good Part of the Night in Feasting.
When a Person dies, several of his Acquaintance come to sit with him, which they call the Wake. The Clerk of the Parish is obliged to sing a Psalm, in which all the Company join; and after that they begin some Pastime to divert themselves, having strong Beer and Tobacco allowed them in great Plenty. This is a Custom borrowed from the Irish, as are indeed many others much in Fashion with them.
As to their Funerals, they give no Invitation, but every Body who had any Acquaintance with ​the Deceased come either on Foot or Horseb⟨ack.⟩ I have seen sometimes at a Manks Burial, upwards of 100 Horsemen, and twice the Number of Foot: All these are entertained at long Tables, spread with all Sorts of Provision, and Rum and Brandy fly about at a lavish Rate. The Procession of carrying the Corpse to the Grave is in this Manner: When they come within a Quarter of a Mile of the Church, they are met by the Parson, who walks before them singing a Psalm, all the Company joining with him. In every Church Yard there is a Cross, round which they go three Times before they enter the Church. But these are the Funerals of the better Sort, for the Poor are carried only on a Bier, with an old Blanket round them, fastened together with a Skewer.
Having mentioned that there is no Church Yard without a Cross, I cannot forbear taking Notice that there is none which serves not also for a Common to the Parson's Cattle: all his Horses, Cows and Sheep grazing there perpetually. So strangely are Religion and Rusticity mingled together in this Island!
They told me, that but a few Months before my Arrival, there was found under Kirk Carbra Church Yard, a human Head of a monstrous Circumference, that a Bushel would hardly cover it; and that nothing was more common, when they were digging, than to throw up Ribs and Hands conformable to the Leg I had seen.
As it is a received Opinion, that the Antideluvians infinitely exceeded the Stature of Mortals since the Flood, I can reconcile these Prodigies no otherwise to Reason, than by judging them to be the Remains of those who lived in the first Ages of the World; and that, by a Virtue peculiar to this Earth, had been preserved thus long unperished; as they seem to make evident in the Example before recited, of a Man whose very Flesh and Cloaths remained uncorrupted for the Space of more than 100 Years.
Their Markets are kept on Saturdays, but there is little Butcher's Meat to be bought by the single Joint; most of the Housekeepers who do not bring up Cattle themselves, join three or four or more of them together, according as their Families are in Largeness, and buy a Carcase; but, as I before observed, they are Persons of Consideration who eat any at all, the Natives in general, both Rich and Poor, and many of the Irish who inhabit in the Island, living almost wholly on Herrings and Potatoes: the former of which are pickled up in the Season, and last the whole Year.
Nor does the Eye want it's Entertainment too; tho' there are no Plays nor magnificent Sights to dazzle it, here is every Charm that Nature can bestow, Rocks, Vales, Mountains, Rivers, Gardens, scattered promiscuously in the most beautiful, tho' wild, Variety imaginable. The Groves indeed, in which Lovers are said so much to delight themselves, they cannot boast of, having, as I said before, no Trees; but then there are a thousand agreeable Shades from the Mountains, and every where except in Towns, the most charming Solitude imaginable.
They have also one very great Happiness here, which is, the not being infested with Robbers; here are neither Highwaymen nor Housebreakers, and a Man may leave his Doors unbarred, or travel the Island round, without the least Danger of losing his Money or his Life.
Silence, Solitude and Security being the Friends of Contemplation, I fancy, if some of our great Poets would take a Trip hither sometimes, they would find their Account in it, and confess the Improvements their Genius would receive in passing a few Months in a Place so retired, and at the same Time so romantick, would very well compensate for a short Absence from those noisy Pleasures, which rather serve to distract than any Way to inform the Mind.
Nor will any one deny there can be a Place more proper for aHermit, because here are no Temptations to allure him from his Cell, but he may pass his Nights and Days entirely uninterrupted; and, as there are still many of those pious Men in the World, it must be thro' Ignorance of this Island, that none of them made Choice of it at present; ​I say at present, because I have been shewn a Hole on the Side of a Rock near Kirk Maroan Mountains, which they say was formerly the Habitation of one who had retired from the Converse of Mankind, and devoted himself entirely to Prayer and Meditation.
What seems to prove this Conjecture is not without Foundation, is, that there is still to be seen a Hollow, cut out on the Side of a Rock, with a round Stone at one End in the Shape of a Pillow, which renders it highly probable to have been the hard Lodging of one of those holy Persons who have forgone all the Gaieties and Pleasures of Life, and chose to mortify the Body for Sake of the Soul.
Every Thing indeed conspire to prove that Religion was once in very great Splendour in this Island, but there are now little Remains of it, except in that blind Obedience paid to the Clergy, of which I have fully treated, and the implicit Faith they give to every Thing delivered from a Man in sacred Order. Among the many Impositions put upon their Credulity, perhaps the following Narrative may be an Instance.
In a wild and barren Field between Ballifletcher and Lahnclegere, there was a large Stone Cross, but in the many Changes and Revolutions which have happened in the Island, has been broke down, and Part of it is lost; but there still remains the Cross Part. This has several Times been attempted to be removed by Persons who pretended a Claim to whatever was on that Ground, and wanted this Piece of Stone: But all their Endeavours have been unsuccessful, nor could the strongest Team of Horses be able to remove it, though Irons were lapped about it for that Purpose. One Day, says cTradition, a great Number of People being ​gathered about it, contriving new Methods for the taking it away, a very venerable old Man appeared among the Crowd, and seeing a Boy of about six or seven Years of Age, he bad him put his Hand to the Stone, which the Child doing, it immediately turned under his Touch, and under it was found a Sheet of Paper, on which were written these Words, Fear God, obey the Priesthood, and do by your Neighbour as you would have him do to you. Every Body present was in the utmost Surprize, especially, when looking for the old Man, in order to ask him some Questions concerning the miraculous Removal of the Stone, he was not to be found, tho' it was not a Minute that they had taken their Eyes off him, and there was neither House nor Hut in a great Distance, where he could possibly have concealed himself. The Paper was however carefully preserved, and carried to the Vicar, who wrote Copies of it, and dispersed them over the Island. They tell you, that they are of such wonderful Virtue to whoever wears them, that on whatever Business they go, they are certain of Success. They also defend from Witchcraft, evil Tongues, and all Efforts of the Devil or his Agents, and that a Woman wearing one of them in her Bosom, while she is pregnant, shall by no Accident whatever lose the Fruit of her Womb.
In a Creek, between two high Rocks, which overlook the Sea on this Side of the Island, they tell you also that Mermen and Mermaids have been frequently seen. Many surprizing Stories of these amphibious Creatures have I been told here, as well as at Port Iron; but the strangest of all is this.
A very beautiful Mermaid, say they, became so much enamoured of a young Man who used to attend his Sheep on these Rocks, that she would frequently come and sit down by him, bring him Pieces ​of Coral, fine Pearls, and what were yet greater Curiosities, and of infinitely more Value, had they fallen into the Hands of a Person who knew their Worth, Shells of various Forms and Figures, and so glorious in their Colours and Shine, that they even dazzled the Eye that looked upon them. Her Presents were accompanied with Smiles, Pattings of the Cheek, and all the Marks of a most sincere and tender Passion; but one Day throwing her Arms more than ordinarily eager about him, he began to be frighted, that she had a Design to draw him into the Sea, and struggled 'till he disegaged himself, and then ran a good many Paces from her, which Behaviour she resented so highly, it seems, that she took up a Stone, and after throwing it as him, glided into her more proper Element, and was never seen on Land again. But the poor Youth, tho' but slightly hit with the Stone, felt from that Moment so excessive a Pin in his Bowels, that the Cry was never out of his Mouth for seven Days, at the End of which he died.
Nor is there any Necessity for one who is less in Love with Solitude to pass his Time wholly in it. Rude and savage as I have described the Customs and Manners of this People to be, there are yet some Exceptions to that general Rule; insomuch, that a Person always brought up in high Life may find Companions polite and qualified enough for his Conversation even among the Natives; but then, as the chief Towns are seldom without some Gentry, either English, Irish or Scots, tho' the greater Number are of the two latter, 'tis easy to believe agreeable Conversation is not impossible to be found.
A very great Enemy to having any good Fellowship with one another, is the Belief the Natives are possessed of, and endeavour to inspire into every Body else, that there is not a Creek or Cranny in ​the Island but is haunted either with Fairies or Ghosts. A Person is thought very fool-hardy, who, if any Business carries him to the North Side, ventures to stay out after the Close of Day. They say such a Temerity has been fatal to many: and to prove it, tell you a long Story of a Man, who, quarrelling with his Neighbour, they went out together toward the Sea Side to decide the Matter with their Swords. In the Combat, the one happened to run the other in the Belly, with which Would he fell, and the Conqueror was about to return Home; when his Wife coming to the Place, and hearing what had befallen, ran to the poor Man, and to prevent his living long enough to relate with whom he had fought, tore open the Wound her Husband had made, and plucked out his Bowels. This Murder, they say, was never discovered 'till the Author of it confessed it in the Agonies of Death: But the troubled Spirit of the Unrevenged continues to hover about he Place 'till this Day. When any Passenger comes near his Walk, he comes out, and demands Who's there? And if the Person so called to makes Answer, he is sure not to survive three Days.
Formerly their current Money was Leather, which every Man of Substance was entitled to make: not expecting a certain Quantity limitted by a Law then in Force: This had no other Impression than the Maker's Name, and the Date of the Year. But the Manks Money since current are Halfpence and Pence, of a base mixed Metal, the Impression and Inscription are the same on both, viz. on one Side Three Legs, commonly called The Three Legs of Man; the Inscription on that Side is Quocunque gesseris stabit, which the Natives foolishly apply to the Posture of the Feet, being opposite to each Word; but the true Meaning to me seems to be, Carry it where you will, it won't go or pass. On the ​other Side of the Impression is a Cap of Maintenance, with an Eagle and Child, the Earl of Derby's Crest, the Motto, Sans Changer; which Motto the Manksmen would transfer from the original Meaning, which was to express the unshaken Loyalty of the House of Stanly, to imply their own Stedfastness: But if it is to be taken in the latter Sense, I shall rather think it only implies the intrinsick Worthlessness of their Coin, for which there is no Change to be got.
Silver and Gold are Metals they had little Acquaintance with 'till the Troubles of England, in the Reign of Charles I. at which Time several Persons taking Shelter in this Island, bringing over great Quantities, made it more familiar to them. But to this Day the Natives trade little in either of them.
There was, however, one Person who discovered so great a Regard for the purer Metals, that he buried a great Number of Spanish Pieces of Eight, and Moydores, in a Hole in the Earth near the Castle, which about 100 Years since were found by the Workmen who were diggiug to enlarge the Earl of Derby's Wine Vaults; but not knowing what to make of them, by Reason they had lost their Colour, carried them to the Overseer of the Works, who, I hear, was not quite so ignorant of their Worth.
I shall now present my Reader with two or three Instances more of their Credulity, to the End, he may be as perfectly acquainted with a Native of the Isle of Man, as if he had lived among them as I have done.
In the Days of Enchantment, say they, a certain great Magician had by his Art raised for himself the most magnificent Palace that ever Eye beheld: but none who, either out of Curiosity, or a Desire of being entertained there, went to it, but was immediately converted into Stone, or at least had the Appearance of it: So implacable an Enemy was the wicked Master of it to all his won Species, being served only by infernal Spirits. He became at length so much the Terror of the whole Island, that no Person would venture to live or pass within several Leagues of this Habitation, so that all that Side of the Country was in a Manner desolate, to the great Loss and Detriment of the Place in general. This had continued for the Space of three Years, when an Accident, or rather the peculiar Direction of Divine Providence, was pleased in Mercy to deliver them from the Terrors of so cruel a Neighbour.
It was presently concluded from what the Pilgrim said, that the Salt spilt on the Ground had occasioned this Dissolution of the Palace; and for that Reason, Salt has ever since been in such Estimation among them, that no Person will go out on any material Affair without taking some in their Pockets, much less remove from one House to another, marry, put out a Child, or take one to nurse without Salt being mutually interchanged; nay, tho' a poor Creature be almost famish'd in the Streets, he will not accept any Food you will give him, unless you join Salt to the rest of your Benevolence. This is so universal a thing among them, that a Person cannot be three Days in this Island without being a Witness of the Truth of it, and on asking the Meaning of such Veneration for Salt, will be told this Story as I have related it, which should any one seem to doubt the Truth of, he would incur the Censure of the Inhabitants, as a very prophane Person, and a Man who believed neither God nor Devil.
They told me that a famous Enchantress, sojourning in this Island, but in what Year they were Ignorant, had, by her diabolical Arts, made herself appear so lovely in the Eyes of Men, that she ensnared the Hearts of all that beheld her. The Passion they had for her so took up all their Time, that they entirely neglected their usual Occupations; neither ploughed nor sowed; neither built Houses nor repaired them; their Gardens were overgrown with Weeds, and their once fertile Fields were covered with stones; their Cattle died for want of Pasture, their Turf lay in the Bowels of the Earth undug for; and every Thing had the Appearance of an utter Desolation; even Propagation ceased, for no Man could have the least Inclination for any Woman but this universal Charmer, who smiled on them, permitted them to follow her, and gave every one leave to hope himself would be at last the happy He.
When she had thus allured the Male part of the Island, she pretended one Day to go a Progress through Provinces, and being attended by all her Adorers on Foot, while she rode on a milk white Palfrey, in a Kind of Triumph at the Head of them, she led them into a deep River, which by her Art she made seem passable; and when they were all come a good way in it, she caused a sudden Wind to rise, which driving the Waters in such Abundance to one Place, swallowed up the poor Lovers to the Number of 600, in their tumultuous Waves. After which, the Sorceress was seen by some Persons who stood on the Shore, to convert herself into a Bat, and fly through the Air till she was out of sight, as did her Palfrey into a Sea-Hog or Porpoise, and instantly plunged itself to the Bottom of the Stream.
To prevent any such like Accident for the future, those wise People have ordained their Women to go ​on Foot, and follow wheresoever their Lords the Men shall lead; and this Custom is so religiously observed, as indeed all their Traditions are, that if by Chance a Woman is before, whoever sees her, cries out immediately Tehi! Tegi! Tehi! Tegi! which it seems, was the Name of that Enchantress which occasioned the Law among them.
But in my Opinion, there is little Occasion at this Day for putting it in Practice; for how much soever the Natives of Man might formerly devote themselves to the Will and Pleasure of their Mistresses, they now use them with so little Ceremony, that I wonder how these poor Creatures can ever take any Felicity of Love; or indeed, can be brought to endure the Marriage-Yoke, where there is so little Compensation for the Servilities it reduces them to, in a Climate so uncourteous to their Sex.
They tell you also, that their Island was once much larger than it is at present; but that a Magician, who had great Power over it, and committed many Wonderful and horrible Things, and being opposed by one who was a Friend to the Place, and, at length overcame by him; he, in revenge raised a furious Wind, not only in the Air, but also in the Bosom of the Earth, which rendering it, tore off several Pieces, which floating in the Sea, in Process of Time were converted into Stone, and became those Rocks, which are now so dangerous to Shipping. The smaller Fragments, they say, are Sands which waving up and down, are at sometimes to be seen, and at others, shift themselves far off the Coast. They maintain that it was on one of these that the late King William had like to have perished, and strengthen this Suggestion by the Tryal of the Pilor, who must infallibly have been hang'd, if on strict Examination of all the Charts, there had been in any of them the least mention made of any such ​Sands; but however that be, the floating Ruins have ever since remain'd, and from thence, are called King William's Sands.
And now, I believe, my Reader will be almost as much tired with reading this Description as I am with Writing it; and having nothing more to say, that I can flatter myself will be either instructive or entertaining to him, shall take my leave, wishing no Gentleman, who has ever known the polite pleasures of Life, may deserve so ill of Heaven as to be driven into this Banishment through Necessity; tho' I think it will not be loss of Time to those who travel in Search of Wonders of Nature, to take a Trip to it, since I believe there is no Place whatsoever, in the known World, abounds with more than the Isle of Man.
FINIS.
This work was published before January 1, 1930, and is in the public domain worldwide because the author died at least 100 years ago.
Public domainPublic domainfalsefalse