# The Story of Christchurch, New Zealand/Chapter 22

Chapter XXII.
Christchurch of to-day.
With the previous chapter this story has come to its end; subsequent events are too recent to be seen yet in their true perspective. It only remains to endeavour to associate some of the memories of the early history with a description of Christchurch as we know it in this year of 1916.
The visitor coming to Christchurch at the present day, must find it hard to realise the tree-less expanse of sand and swamp with which the first settlers were confronted. The other chief cities in New Zealand, Auckland, Wellington and Dunedin, occupy sites of great natural beauty, and were, perhaps, even more picturesque in their original setting of native bush, extending to their sea frontages, than they are to-day. Queen Street, Auckland, and Princes Street, Dunedin, are natural thoroughfares, and, like Lambton Quay, in Wellington, present architectural opportunities comparable with those of Edinburgh itself.
Christchurch is essentially a “city of the plains.” If we except the Avon and the wonderful panorama of the Southern Alps, it possessed no natural advantages; it might, as Mr. Henry Sewell remarked, improve on further acquaintance like olives, but special training was needed to appreciate ifs bare and spacious environment.
Most of the cities of the world, ancient and modern, have grown by chance or accident, rather than by definite design. The Strand, in London, followed the curve of the river bank. Many of the Scottish cities clustered for protection beneath the walls of some feudal castle; ​the great cities of the black country have grouped themselves around collieries and blast furnaces. Similarly, chance has settled the growth and development of most colonial cities. Wellington, or Port Nicholson, as it was then called, was originally built on a strip of beach squeezed in between the feet of its precipitous hills and the water-front. The evidence of congestion is still manifest in its narrow and crooked streets. Christchurch is remarkable as an instance of a city deliberately planned and planted on an open plain. The result, in the main, is a city of wide streets, free from congestion, and free from slums. By the forethought of its founders, in addition to other reserves, Hagley Park and the Domain were set aside as a perpetual heritage to the city and province. With the passage of time, Hagley Park has come to resemble a well-timbered English park; the Domain gardens and river banks have been planted, and the waste places of the city and surroundings well cared for. (See Appendix on Domain Board, Beautifying Society and Summit Road Association.)
Perhaps the most striking general impression of the city may be gained by climbing the narrow spiral stairs leading to the balconies in the Cathedral Tower. South wards the city extends to the foot of the Port Hills, and has already covered some of the lower spurs. A few tall buildings stand out like islands above the sea of roots, notably the dome of the Roman Catholic Cathedral in the middle distance, and the Express Company’s lofty building in the near foreground. The Port Hills form the background on this side. A rocky crag, known as Windsor Castle, stands sentinel to mark the Bridle Track of the pilgrims, and the tunnel of later years. The original yellow tussock of these hills has given place to the green of English grasses. The range terminates abruptly to the north-east in the Sumner cliffs, and beyond lie the blue waters of the Pacific Ocean.
In other directions the building area appears to be ​limited, and the curious effect is presented of a city surrounded by forest. The illusion is produced by a wide range of gardened dwellings, each with ample room for the cultivation of trees and flowers. Thanks to its “spacious environment,” and an up-to-date tramway service, population has spread over miles of plain, and gardens and orchards are the rule rather than the exception. Along the western horizon extends the great mountain range of the Southern Alps, many of the peaks above the line of perpetual snow. The Kaikouras, one hundred miles to the north, are only visible in exceptionally clear weather, but from north to south extends a magnificent alpine panorama.
A still more comprehensive view may be obtained from the “Summit Road,” which runs along the upper slopes of the Port Hills, at an average elevation of about one thousand feet. On one side lies Lyttelton Harbour, almost landlocked amid its volcanic hills, and on the other side is spread the great Canterbury Plain, like a map traversed by the silver skein of the troublesome Waimakariri. Away to the south lies the wide expanse of Lake Ellesmere, famous as the haunt of myriads of wild fowl. To the north stretches the scimitar-like curve of the coast line around Pegasus Bay. From this point of view Christchurch no longer appears to be set in forest; the greater elevation enables the outline of fields and plantations to be distinguished.
Mr. E. F. Knight, the author of “Where Three Empires Meet,” saw this view on June 24, 1901. It was a clear winter morning, the day of the Royal Review in Hagley Park, when H.R.H. Duke of York (now H.M. King George), was visiting Christchurch. Mr. Knight was a trained observer, a traveller over many lands, and his description of his impression of the Canterbury Plains is therefore worth quoting in extenso. “One morning,” he wrote, “I ascended a hill about two miles from Christchurch, and looked out on what is an object lesson ​indeed to one who would know what the industries of the British colonies can achieve. Before me was a vast plain, extending to mountain ranges, which were from forty to a hundred miles distant. The mountains presented a grand appearance, covered as they were half-way down their slopes with snow, and with, here and there, some mighty peak of the still further Southern Alps towering white into the forget-me-not-coloured sky. The plains that thus stretched before me for hundreds of square miles were the famous Canterbury Plains, and as far as my eye could carry these appeared to be richly cultivated; hedges often made of golden-blossoming English gorse, dividing the fields. Pleasant farmhouses, tree surrounded homesteads and pretty villages, were scattered over this flat plain, which I observed was crossed by railway lines and many good roads. It was winter, and there was stubble where the crops had been; but I knew that on that fertile soil are produced enormous crops of wheat, barley, oats, rye, and other cereals; of turnips, potatoes, peas, clover and mangolds, and that here are vineyards where the finest grapes are grown; orchards where every English tree flourishes exceedingly. Last year the yield of wheat alone in the Canterbury district was considerably over five million bushels. A million and a half acres of land have been ploughed and laid down in English grasses. The district is celebrated for the splendid quality of its sheep; on the higher land the Merino predominating, on the lower lands crosses of Lincoln, Romney Marsh, Leicester, and other English breeds find excellent pasture. The development of the frozen meat export trade has given a great impetus to the sheep breeding in this district. Last year nearly two million carcases were frozen, and the Islington works alone, belonging to the Christchurch Meat Company, can put through six thousand carcases a day, and can store a hundred and twenty thousand carcases. Apparently
Colombo Street, from Cathedral Square (looking south).
Plate 30.
The city of Christchurch suffers from the absence of any main thoroughfare. A stranger to Auckland unconsciously gains his bearings and sense of locality from the line of Queen Street, but in the absence of any such landmark, visitors are apt to experience great difficulty in finding their way about Christchurch. Everything is on a dead level, and the streets are all the same width, mostly at right angles to each other, and the windings of the river Avon tend to further confuse. Fortunately the Cathedral spire is generally visible, and forms an excellent beacon. Cathedral Square is not only the central site of the city, but the historical centre of Canterbury’s story. Facing the Cathedral stands the statue of John Robert Godley, surveying the edifice of which he and his companions dreamt nearly seventy years ago. Even more interesting, historically, than the Cathedral are the “old Provincial Buildings,” dating back to the early days of the Provincial Government. Not far away, and also on the banks of the river, stand the Municipal Council Chambers, built in 1886 on the site of the original Land Office, where the allocation of the first sections sold by the Canterbury Association took place. To the westward has grown up an educational and residential neighbourhood, not unlike that of an English University city. Amongst the buildings grouped in ​this portion of the town are those of Christ’s College (surrounding a wide quadrangle), Canterbury College, the Boys’ and Girls’ High Schools, the Normal School (for the training of teachers), the Public Library and the Museum. In front of the Museum stands the statue of William Rolleston, a fine study in white marble, facing the view of Worcester Street and the Cathedral, of which Henry Sewell wrote in anticipation.
Besides the buildings noted, there are many others of lesser historic importance. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, in Barbadoes Street, with its fine dome, finished in 1905, is a striking testimony to the liberality of the members of that Church. The Government offices in Worcester Street, and the Supreme Court Buildings and Magistrate’s Court-house, each of the latter with frontages on the river, are ornaments to the city. The churches of various denominations are too numerous to particularise, but St. Michael’s deserves special mention as a fine example of wooden architecture. It was built in 1870, and stands on the site of the first church opened in 1851 in Christchurch, where Bishop Harper was consecrated on Christmas Day, 1856. The Christchurch Club is another interesting specimen of an early wooden building, dating from 1861. The timber employed was heart of black pine (Maitai), of a quality now difficult to procure, and at a recent examination was found to be perfectly sound.
The Post Office and Railway Station call for no special comment, they both belong to what may be called the “middle ages,” and will, in time, give place to something more worthy of the city,
Christchurch Club, 1916.
(See Appendix. See also view taken in 1862, facing p. 130).
Plate 31.
Vestibule, Christchurch Club.
Plate 32.
​redundancy may be partly due to the pleasant custom of the City Council some years ago of commemorating the services of its Mayors by building bridges inscribed with their names and date of office.
The commercial and industrial buildings of the city call for no special comment. There are many handsome buildings amongst them, but speaking generally they are useful and substantial, rather than ornate—admirably adapted, in fact, to their various purposes. With a single exception there are no buildings exceeding five stories in height, There is indeed no necessity for economy of ground space with such ample room for the city to spread, and the writer records his hope that ere it be too late, the authorities will take steps to prevent the erection of anything akin to the American skyscrapers to disfigure the city and dwarf its fine Cathedral spire.
The city has its own abattoirs at Sockburn, about five miles away, where meat for local consumption is slaughtered under proper supervision. It has also a destructor to burn city refuse, and utilises the heat to produce electricity for the use of the citizens. This supply of electricity has lately been supplemented from the Government Water-power Works at Lake Coleridge. The waste heat from the destructor is used in warming the water of a fine tepid swimming bath, which was built by the City Council in 1909. This bath has become the headquarters of the Royal Life Saving Society, which is doing splendid work under the care of a very efficient instructor (Mr. Billson).
Another useful institution established by the Government, in 1906, is the Technical College, where instruction is given in the various industries, under the supervision of Mr. Howell.
Hagley Park, north and south, has been the sports ground of successive generations of Canterbury boys, and stands in the same relation to some of those who have ​since fought in South Africa, in Egypt and on the Gallipoli Peninsula, as did the playing fields of Eton to many who fought at Waterloo.
In its ample spaces the Park provides grounds for cricket, football, polo, golf, hockey, lawn tennis, bowls, croquet and model yacht sailing. Canterbury in its early days, was pre-eminent at cricket, but its representative players then were men who had learned the game at the public schools and universities of England. The high-water mark of that phase of Canterbury cricket was probably reached in January, 1878, when a Canterbury team defeated the famous Australian Eleven. The match was played at Hagley Park, and it was out of compliment to the cricketing prowess of Canterbury that the visitors agreed to meet a team of fifteen instead of twenty-two, as in the other provinces. The Australian team, captained by Gregory, included such giants as Spofforth (the demon bowler), Murdoch and the two Bannermans, a side which in England almost created a reign of terror. It is only fair to say that three years later, in January, 1881, another Australian team, captained by W. L. Murdoch, look an ample and single innings revenge.
To-day Canterbury is again at the head of interprovincial cricket, being the present holders of the Plunket Shield. But this position has been won by Canterbury-bred cricketers, who have learnt their cricket here.
Hagley Park from the author's house, 1916.
Plate 33.
​tournament was held in Christchurch, out of compliment to the late Captain Anthony Wilding, eldest son of the founder of Lancaster Park, who, with the assistance of Mr. Norman Brookes, the Australian champion, had won the cup for Australasia the previous year. Unfortunately Mr. Wilding, who was then in business in London, was unable for private reasons to come out and take part in the match; nevertheless, the Australasian team retained the Cup. The match won by Norman Brookes from the young American champion, McLoughlin, was possibly the most interesting display of lawn tennis ever seen. On the one side was a veteran player, calm and collected, a past-master of cool strategy; on the other, a marvel of activity, whose overhead smashes possessed the force of a hurricane. Sometimes a rally would be ended by a shot from McLoughlin, which after pitching in his adversary’s court, flew like a rocket among the spectators at the top of one of the grand stands; sometimes Brookes having driven his opponent into the wings, would gently drop a short return over the net, while the opponent stood mopping his forehead.
Captain Anthony Wilding’s career in the world’s history of lawn tennis needs no comment. It may be fairly claimed that he laid the foundation of his success in Christchurch, under the capable tuition of his father. He died in May, 1915, killed at the front by a German shell.
In other branches of sport, Christchurch has been well to the fore. The Canterbury Jockey Club (see Appendix), was one of the first racing clubs in New Zealand, and its beautiful grounds and appurtenances at Riccarton are worth visiting.
The New Zealand Metropolitan Trotting Club has also a fine course laid out at Addington on its own freehold.
Rowing too, is not neglected; there are several clubs, the senior being the Canterbury and Union Rowing ​Clubs, each with a large membership and fine boat house and appliances. Richard Arnst, for some years sculling champion of the world, came from Canterbury, as did also W. Webb, from whom Arnst won the world’s championship.
There are more motor-cars, motor-cycles and bicycles in Canterbury than in any other province; this is but the natural result of the wide stretch of level country, intersected by good roads, wide and straight. The Canterbury Automobile Association was founded in 1903, and has a membership numbering about five hundred. It has done good work in securing a great improvement in the roads of the province.
Westward of the city lie the Domain Gardens and Hagley Park, the former accessible by three gates on Rolleston Avenue. Fronting the central entrance to the gardens is the statue of W.8. Moorhouse, the second Superintendent of Canterbury. The illustrations in this volume may be left to tell their tale about the present appearance of the Domain Gardens and Hagley Park, but both are rich in old Canterbury associations. A stone at the bend of the river near the Riccarton Avenue marks the first camping ground of the pioneers; an oak near the Acclimatisation Society bridge was planted in 1862 to commemorate the marriage of Prince Albert Edward of Wales with the Princess Alexandra of Denmark; other trees commemorate the visit of the Duke of Edinburgh, and we may picture the Duke and his suite tramping across the rough grass to plant them, and flushing pheasants on the way, and afterwards crossing in a punt to the Acclimatisation Society grounds.
Rolleston Avenue 1916.
The Avenue stands on a strip of land originally reserved for a mill race.
Plate 34.
In the Domain Gardens, 1916.
Plate 35.
​Lake, the headquarters of the Model Yacht Club. We can picture Mr. Henry Sewell, in tall hat and shepherd’s plaid trousers, marching his associates about in search of a site for Christ’s College. We can witness, in memory, the great review held to commemorate the visit to Christchurch of the Duke of York, now his Gracious Majesty King George V., and in the procession of events that followed, the Hon, R. J. Seddon may be seen laying the foundation stone of the International Exhibition. The stone still stands to mark the place once the haunt of eager crowds. We may remember the keen competition for the gold watch which rewarded the millionth person to pass the turnstile.
The estimated population on April 1, 1915, of the four chief cities was us follows:—
| Greater Auckland . . . | . . . | 117,793 |
| Greater Christchurch | . . . | 87,758 |
| Greater Wellington | . . . | 74,811 |
| Greater Dunedin . . . | . . . | 69,158 |
Christchurch thus being the second largest city in New Zealand. (From “Year Book,” 1916).