# Charleston: Its Rise and Decline/Chapter 4

Chapter IV.
THE OLD BEACH-ROUTE—FROM 1867 TO 1874.
THE FIRST STAGE—SOUTH SPIT, PACKERS’ POINT, CAPE FOULWIND.
PRIOR to 1867 no road of any kind existed between the Buller and Charleston, but only pack-tracks across Cape Foulwind and from the Nine-mile Beach to the Nile River. Over these and the intervening beaches travelled hundreds of gold-seekers to the new field of Pakihi, Charleston, carrying swags and provisions or, if sufficiently financial, engaging the services of packers with pack-horses from South Spit.
Before these pack-tracks existed, a man-trail had been formed by the many who had forged their way through the dense forest on the Cape, over the streams, and along the beaches. The route was from the South Spit of the Buller River, just opposite the north end of the present crane-wharf at Westport. Passengers were boat-ferried from the old township of Westport, and supplies, etc., were brought across on barges—all by man-power.
PACKERS’ POINT.
This was a point in the south bank of the river, on the up-river side of Bradshaw’s Creek, and of the lagoon which separated the point from South Spit. Here ferryboats or barges (lighters) landed passengers and freight for Addison’s Flat, etc. Freights, as the name implies, were taken on pack-horses, while passengers took “Shanks’s Pony” or hired hacks. It was not unusual for a “train” of fifteen or more pack-horses to leave here for Addison’s Flat (May, 1867). ​There was a public-house half-way on the journey!
There were at Packers’ Point at least one hotel (The King’s, T. K. King, 1869); at least one stable (Graham and Bell’s, 1869); a blacksmith (M. Bohan, later of Charleston); a dairyman (O. O’Neill, 1868); and a store. Mr. E. J. O’Conor (the “Buller Lion”) had a dairy-farm at Packers’ Point, later acquired by Mr. W. Martin.
It is to be noted that in the ’sixties the river, instead of running straight to sea as now, took a bend towards the South Spit, and its mouth was west of the present breakwater—at the back of where the present flagstaff stands.
SOUTH SPIT.
As stated, this was, in 1867, the northern terminus of the beach-route between the Buller and Charleston. The rough road over Cape Foulwind was surveyed by Mr. Alex. Aitken and formed by prison labour, mainly by deserters from ships.
Consequent upon the discovery of Charleston goldfield in August of 1866, a settlement sprang up at South Spit whence, until the opening of the beach-route, goods were packed to the new field after having been ferried across the Buller. Livery and bait business flourished, pack-horses and hacks being in demand. The beach-route carried the entire road-traffic to and from Charleston until 1874 when it was abandoned in favour of the shorter, safer, non-tidal inland road from Buller (further up-river from South Spit and Packers’ Point) via Addison’s Flat.
At South Spit were several hotels, general stores, and stables; also the saleyards for live-stock brought to Westport from Nelson, Wanganui, etc. Near these yards was the “Stockyard Store” kept by Ambrose Thomas in 1868.
The first ferry between Westport and South Spit was Reuben Waite’s. In 1864 a party of six walked from the Grey to South Spit, and Waite sent his boat across for them. On the return journey it capsized, and two were drowned. The ferryboats, of which there were about thirty, left Westport from Bull’s steps behind the Empire Hotel in Wharf Street, and landed at some steps near the Waterman’s Arms ​Hotel, where a shed for storage had been erected, and whence ran a light tramline and truck to the coach-start, or “hopping-off” place, in front of the Waterman’s Arms Hotel.
All boats, barges, and watermen were licensed. Some of the earliest were George Thomas Craddock, his boat being The Pride of Erin, for 14 passengers; Dick Richardson, the Josephine, 10 passengers; Jim McGavin, known as “Jimmy the Ripper”; Joe Jackenoe; Jim Furgy; Larry Larsen; Jack Hale; and John Pascoe. Two well-known boats were the Rose of Denmark and the Eclipse, but by whom owned is not clear. The ferry charges fixed by Gazette were: 25th July, 1865, each single person 1/-; if more than one at the same time 6d. each. 27th August, 1868, Westport to South Spit 1/- each; Westport to Packers’ Point 1/- each. 1st July, 1871, Westport to South Spit or Packers’ Point 1/- each; Westport to Waite’s Landing 2/6 each; passengers allowed 20lbs. of luggage each, free of charge. The license fees were: 1868, Waterman’s license £1; license for boat or lighter £1. 1871, Waterman or boatman 10/-; passenger boats 10/- each; cargo, ballast, or water-tank boats 20/- each. The distance from South Spit to Charleston was between 20 and 22 miles, and the journey occupied about three hours on horse-back, but much longer for vehicles, wagons taking eight hours.
On 29th August, 1867, Mr. Blackett, Provincial Engineer, accompanied by his Assistant, Mr. A. D. Dobson, left Westport for Charleston in company with Commissioner Kynnersley, doing the journey on horse-back in three hours. Concerning the beach-route he reported it as being 22 miles, made up as follows: “Seven miles of beach to Cape Foulwind; about three miles over the Cape, cut through bush, one chain wide, laid with bush fascines and covered with sand about fourteen feet wide, suitable for dray traffic; then another short beach, and a short cutting through a narrow neck of scrub, followed by a ten-mile beach of hard sand, and terminating with a piece of road through bush, with side and other cuttings, and a bridge over the Nile, with a cutting up the hill beyond, into the town. All this work is well carried out and Cobb’s coach runs daily from each place, at such times as suit the tides, and so as to make the beaches available.” The “seven ​miles of beach” refers to South Beach. The “other short beach” was Half-mile Beach in Tauranga Bay; the “narrow neck of scrub” was across The Point, or Rocky Peninsula, where Loring’s room stood and which was later part of Faris’s farm; the “ten-mile beach of hard sand” was the Nine-mile Beach; the terminal “piece of road through bush” was from Little Beach to the Nile bridge, and “the cutting up the hill” was from the Nile bridge up and over the Nile hill—the old Buller Road which, 1882, was discarded in favour of a low-level road from the bridge to Charleston. The reference to Cobb & Co.’s coaches confirms the opinion that the beach-route was opened about June in 1867.
In October, 1867, Commissioner Kynnersley reported upon the route, and mentioned “the considerable increase in the population and prosperity of the district.” Referring to the public expenditure (presumably during the then current financial year) he said: “The roads upon which the money has been principally expended are:—(1) Three miles of dray-road over Cape Foulwind through flat bush land, and one mile near Charleston. By means of these four miles of road, connecting the beaches, the whole road of twenty miles in length, between Westport and Charleston, has been made available for the drays and daily coaches, and a large tract of excellent land has been opened for settlement.”
Some of the early hotels at South Spit were:—(1) The Waterman’s Arms Hotel close to the ferry landing-steps; first kept by John Thomas, and later by George Thomas Craddock, a licensed Waterman who, in 1887, lost his life while taking soundings on the river bar. All trace of this old house has disappeared. It was not licensed after 1874, when the beach-route was abandoned, and was pulled down about 1900. It is believed that John Thomas later kept the Victoria Hotel and Concert Room on Section 151 in Rotten Row, Charleston, late in 1867. (2) The Carriers’ Arms Hotel and Restaurant (John Leydon, 1867, John Reid, 1868) which, states an advertisement of 1869, was “next to Rimmer & Forder’s stables.” (3) The Red, White and Blue Hotel (Stainer and Patterson, 1868), also advertised as being “next to Rimmer & Forder’s stables.” (4) Dewdrop Hotel. (5) Butchers’ ​Arms Hotel (R. H. Thomas, 1868). Doubtless there were others.
There were at least two schools—Mrs. Franklin’s and Miss Maria Craddock’s. The latter had 50 pupils.
The two largest livery and bait stables were in connection with the two coach services, and had branches at Charleston also. These were:—(1) Lloyd & Co., 1867, the “Telegraph Line,” near to the Waterman’s Arms Hotel, apparently connected with Cobb & Co., 1867, whose business early passed to other hands as shown hereinafter. Their Charleston stables were on Section 150. (2) Rimmer & Forder, 1867, the “Lightning Line,” of 1868, next door to Carriers’ Arms Hotel, or to the Red, White and Blue Hotel, or to both. This firm dissolved partnership 13th June, 1869, and Forder carried on. Their Charleston stables were on Section 237. Two smaller stables were Pat Harney’s, 1868, and Brennan & Burns’, 1868. Horse-hire in 1868 was: For men, Charleston-Westport, 25/-. For women, 30/-. (Reduced in same year to 15/- and 20/- respectively.)
Livery charges were in 1868: Charleston, 10/- per night; South Spit, 8/- per night.
COACH SERVICES.
The first service was initiated about the middle of 1867, nearly a year after the discovery of Charleston, by Messrs. Cobb & Co., for whom Mr. William Crawley was manager; this was the Royal Mail Line. In advertisements of September, 1867, and January, 1868, Messrs. L. G. Cole & Co. are shown as owners, and Mr. Beamiss as manager; it was then called the “Telegraph Line.” In January, 1869, it was sold to The Westport and Charleston Telegraph Line of Coaches, Messrs. Greening & Kiely, for whom Mr. W. E. Veale was agent. In March, 1869, Greening sold his interest to James Simpson, and the firm became Kiely & Simpson. In 1873, Simpson became sole owner. In 1880, or earlier, it was owned and run by William R. Hill, who reduced the fare to 16/- and, some years later, to 5/-. The booking-offices for Cobb & Co. were at the Empire Hotel, Wharf Street, Westport, and at the Melbourne Hotel, Charleston, though it is believed that at ​the latter town they had at first a stopping-place called the Royal Mail Hotel, the site of which is now unknown.
In 1867 the fare was 25/-, “including ferriage over the Buller, and tolls.” This was, in 1868, reduced to 20/-. The only toll on record was that imposed by the owners of the Nile bridge; but the ferry charge at Totara was frequently termed a toll. In January, 1868, the cartage rate for goods was 6/- per hundredweight. Coaches left both South Spit and Charleston daily, and for a time at least this included Sundays. The departure time was “two hours before low water.”
In Pfaff’s book The Diggers’ Story, Mr. John Leydon, of the Carriers’ Arms Hotel, at South Spit, states that he, to forestall Cobb & Co., obtained from Wanganui a coach, named it “The Eclipse,” and actually made the first trip to Charleston by the beach-route. He adds, “Cobb & Co. bought me out. They gave a good price for the turn-out and bound themselves to start and stop at my hotel. . . I did not stay long to enjoy it.”
Apparently this arrangement did not last for long, as it is fairly well established that the coaches started from, and ended their journeys at, the Waterman’s Arms Hotel. However, it is known that later an “Eclipse Line” of coaches ran (in September, 1867) from the Carriers’ Arms Hotel at South Spit, and from a hotel of the same name in Charleston, on Section 238. Shortly afterwards this line was owned by Crewdson & Leydon, and their coaches to and from Charleston arrived at and left Crewdson’s Royal Hotel, Section 108.
Some of the drivers of the early and later days were Dick Duggan, William Ballam, William Hanna, Tom McGee, Michael Quayne, Jack Clements, William Stewart.
Mr. Leydon records that shortly after arriving at the South Spit his wife presented him with “a baby-girl, the first born in Westport.”
SOUTH BEACH.
Leaving South Spit, coaches and wagons traversed the six or seven miles of hard sand then known as South Beach, and now as Carter’s Beach. Carter, a hotelkeeper at ​Charleston, was the first to take up land there and start a bush-farm.
At the southern end of this beach, near to Kawau Point, the Cape Road started, and here was the first coach-stop, Gibson’s, a small store and wayside house, where many both before and during the early days of coaching, secured supplies and enjoyed hospitality. All trace of it has long since vanished. The beach between this house and the Cape was called Gibson’s Beach.
Carter’s Beach, then but a strip of strand with breakers from the Tasman Sea at its western side, and white unoccupied sandhills, scrub and bush at the other, is now a popular seaside resort; as also is Gibson’s Beach. Beside them run the railway and a well-formed road, with the Cape township within easy distance.
CAPE FOULWIND.
Turning aside from the South Beach at Kawau Point, the route followed the rough three-mile road across the Cape, which was then uninhabited; but with the road came seekers of gold-bearing terraces. They found a few golden spots, but none that made history.
In 1886-1888 quarries were opened on the Cape, and a railroad laid from Westport thereto, with a rail-and-road bridge over the Buller in 1887. From these quarries came the stone for the extensive harbour works at Westport. The census of 1874 showed only eight persons at Cape Foulwind, but the opening of the quarries resulted in the formation of a township with post office, church, two hotels, public hall, store, school, and a population of about two hundred. In 1888 a telephone office was established.
In 1889 there was an attendance of thirty-seven at the school, of which Susan Blane was teacher; and in 1908 there was the same number, Miss Winnie Barber being in charge.
These conditions lasted only while the quarries and railway were in full working; in 1921 the census showed only ninety-six persons there. The native name for the Cape is ​Tauranga; Tasman named it Clyppygen Hoeck or Klippingen Hoek, meaning “rocky point” or “rocky corner” when, on 14th December, 1642, he made abreast of it his first anchorage in New Zealand. Fortunately for us, Cook re-named it about a century and a-quarter later, giving it its present but not attractive name.
Within a short distance to sea from Kawau Point was the Giant’s Tooth, a remarkable rock pillar, now no more, it having collapsed long ago in a storm. Slightly north of the Cape lie the Steeples or Black Reef, well-known to the sealers of 1836 and later. On these three islets, called Trois Clochers by D’Urville, Thoms and Green occupied a sealing-station during the ’thirties and ’forties, and thence Thoms sailed his schooner, the Three Brothers, over the Buller bar in 1844. They camped upon the islands in preference to the main land because of the cannibalistic tendencies of the natives.
On the Cape in 1825, the vessel Rifleman of 400 tons, wool-laden and bound from Hobart Town to England, was lost. Brunner and Heaphy in 1846 saw there the remains of a vessel of about that tonnage, and learnt from the Maoris that bales of wool had come ashore some twenty years previously, also that the crew had been hunted, captured, and “disposed of.”
Mr. W. T. L. Travers, in a paper published in 1872, says: “Niho and Takerei proceeded down the coast as far as Hokitika River, killing and taking prisoners nearly all the existing inhabitants.” This refers to the Ngatitoa trek from Massacre Bay about 1833, at which time the only people on the coast were a few Maoris. It is believed that a detachment of this party remained at the Buller and spread to Tauranga Bay. The Rev. C. L. Reay writing from Massacre Bay on 25th May, 1846 (the year that Brunner and Heaphy first explored the coast) referring to Cape Foulwind and Tauranga Bay, says, “that part of the coast was deemed most savage, insomuch that sealers have for weeks lodged on the Black Reef, not venturing to land lest they should be destroyed. Now Mr. Heaphy reports that not only did they most hospitably ​entertain him and his fellow traveller, Mr. Brunner, but escorted them a day’s journey, carrying supplies for them”—a difference due to missionary influence.
In 1876, a small beacon-like lighthouse was erected on the Cape, and was first lighted on the 1st September of that year; but on 21st July, 1926, it was replaced by a modern up-to-date structure. The first building was a “Storm and Telegraph Station” with a revolving white light flashing every half minute. It was 238½ feet above mean sea level and visible for about 19½ miles. The tower was of timber, 53 feet high, and was painted white.
A side-road slightly over a mile in length, from the Beach-route road, was constructed to the site in June, 1875, at a cost of £575; carts procured from Charleston transported the keepers and stores to the light station in July, 1876, and the light was lit about two months later. It is recorded that in the first year, 1876-1877, it consumed 392 gallons of paraffin, and the cost of operating it was £442, including salaries £272.
The staff were:—George Smyth Hand, Principal Keeper, July, 1876. He died 11th November same year. George Edward Hand, of Nelson Light, acted as Principal Keeper from November, 1876, to February, 1877. He died at Nelson, 29th June, 1877. These two men were the first to die in the N.Z. lighthouse service.
Principal Keepers:
Assistant Keepers:
Only probationer and permanent staff are included; not temporary, relieving, or acting staff.
The new lighthouse, which still operates, is an “Un-watched Automatic Light” flashing white every thirty seconds; has an elevation of 225 feet and a visibility of 21 miles. It is a white concrete tower 30 feet in height. On 18 June, 1877, the schooner Reward, 41 tons, Thomas Richard Westlake being master, with a crew of four, was partially wrecked off the Cape. The road over the Cape ended at the north end of Tauranga Bay, where the coaches pulled up at the Half Way House Hotel to enable passengers and teams to refresh.