# The Life and Voyages of Captain James Cook/Chapter 8

Difficulties experienced in prosecuting the voyage northward. The Endeavour quits the coast, and passes through the barrier reef into the main sea. Imminent danger of driving against the barrier reef; escape through Providential Channel, and return towards the Coast. Completion of the arduous task of exploring the East Coast of New Holland, or New South Wales. Landing on Possession Island. Voyage through Endeavour Straits towards New Guinea. Hostile behaviour of the Inhabitants of New Guinea. Landing at the Island of Savu. Friendly intercourse with the King, and the Dutch Resident. Refreshments procured. Arrival at Batavia. Repairs of the ship. Prevailing sickness of the ship's company. Death of the Surgeon, of Tayeto, Tupia, and four others. Departure from Batavia. Landing at Prince's Island: supplies procured. Dreadful sickness and mortality on the passage to the Cape of Good Hope. Loss of Mr. Sporing, Mr. Parkinson, Mr. Green, Mr. Monkhouse, and nineteen others. Arrival at the Cape; and stay there. Departure from the Cape. Death of Mr. Mollineaux. Arrival at St. Helena, and voyage thence to England. Death of Lieutenant Hicks. Arrival at Deal.
After moving slowly to the northward for a week, through a labyrinth of shoals, rocks, and islands, the Commander ascending a high island, to look out for the best passage, perceived an outer reef, stretching along the coast, several leagues from the shore, with some openings through it into the main sea. On this island, which from the lizards seen there was called Lizard Island, he spent the evening of the 11th, with Mr. Banks and others; and next day they touched at another island, which they named Eagle Island, having found there an ​eagle's nest with young ones, and seen also an enormous nest, built with sticks on the ground, twenty-six feet in circumference, and two feet eight inches high. In the mean time, the Master, who was employed in searching for an inshore passage, had spent the night on another island. When the parties met on board, it was resolved, that it was better to go out into the open sea, than continue a dangerous course amidst rocks and shoals, amongst which they had been entangled for almost three months, and had sailed 360 leagues, without once having a man out of the chains heaving the lead! Accordingly, on monday, the 13th, they passed through a channel in the great reef, now known by the name of the barrier reef of New Holland, and just beyond it they had no ground with 150 fathoms. All on board expressed their joy at being once more on the open sea; although their joy was somewhat damped by observing the leaky state of their vessel, which seemed ill able to contend with the mighty billows, now dashing against her.
Having sailed three days to the northward, they found themselves, on the 16th, in imminent danger of driving against the great coral reef, over which the waves were beating with tremendous fury; and although the boats were got out ahead to tow the ship, she was carried within 100 yards of the reef, before her progress was arrested. Even then, destruction would have been inevitable, had not a light breeze sprung up in their favour, just at this crisis of their fate. During another calm, the waves were carrying them rapidly towards the breakers; when the same light breeze providentially returned for their preservation. Soon after, ​they discovered an opening in the reef, through which the Commander resolved, if possible, to carry the ship; but after reaching it with some difficulty, the ebb tide, rushing out of the opening like a mill stream, carried them out to sea for a quarter of a mile, thus placing them in safety for a time, though in the opposite direction. Being still embayed in the reef, the tide of flood soon returning, drove them again into the bight, and they must have forthwith despaired of relief, had not another opening providentially appeared, on reaching which, they were hurried through by the tide with amazing rapidity, and soon found themselves in safety. Thus they escaped the danger which proved fatal to the Pandora twenty years after; and with becoming gratitude, Lieut. Cook named this opening Providential Channel.
The mind of man, like human life, is subject to strange vicissitudes: all on board thought themselves happy in regaining a situation, which only three days ago they were so glad to quit. There were no new capes or bays to be seen in the main sea; and the enthusiasm attending a first discovery, made them cheerfully brave every danger, rather than leave unexplored the interesting country which they had the honour to discover.
In again prosecuting their voyage to the northward, they proceeded with great caution, as before; carefully marking, as they advanced, the grand features of the coast. At length, to their no small joy, they reached the north point of New Holland, called Carpentaria, on tuesday, August 21st, having thus completed an achievement unparalleled in the annals of navigation. No where was the nautical skill of Capt. Cook displayed to greater ​advantage. He had explored this new and dangerous coast from 38° to 101/2° S. latitude, being nearly 2000 miles, when reduced to a straight line; and in the greater part of that space, the ship had to thread her way through a labyrinth of shoals, rocks, and islands; often approaching to frightful coral reefs, rising abruptly like a wall. In addition to the pleasure of accomplishing this arduous task, the Commander had now the satisfaction of ascertaining, that New Guinea forms no part of New Holland.
At this memorable point of his progress, the Commander, with his friends Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, landed on an island, and climbed a hill, to get a better view of the direction of the coast. Here he hoisted the British colours, and formally took possession of the whole east coast of New Holland, for his Majesty King George III, by the name of New South Wales. Three volleys of small arms were fired, which were answered by the same number from the ship; and in commemoration of this ceremony the island was called Possession Island. The straits through which they were to pass to the westward, were called Endeavour Straits, and a group of islands lying to the northward, Prince of Wales's Islands. Before landing on Possession Island, they saw ten natives, one armed with bow and arrows, the rest with lances; but they all went away when the boat approached. They were all naked; which was the case with some women, seen next morning on the beach.
In pursuing their course to the westward, our navigators found, that dangers still awaited them; for the Endeavour narrowly escaped being wreck​ed on a shoal, on saturday the 25th. Having cleared the shoals, and proceeded for some time in a westerly direction, the Commander stood to the N.W. to fall in with New Guinea, and came in sight of it on the 29th. They sailed along the coast some days, without seeing any convenient place for approaching the shore. At last, on monday, September 3rd, the Commander, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and nine others, set out in the pinnace to effect a landing; but the water was so shallow, that they had to wade about 200 yards to reach the shore, leaving two men in charge of the boat. The land was found richly clothed with trees, among which they saw the cocoa nut, the plantain, and the breadfruit: As they advarced along the shore, three Indians rushed out of the woods with a hideous shout; and while one of them threw something from his hand that blazed like gunpowder, the other two threw their lances at the party, who fired some small shot in return. A third lance being thrown, it was judged proper to fire with ball, which made them instantly retreat; and as they ran with great agility, none of them appeared to be seriously wounded. Reluctant to endanger the lives of the savages any further, the Commander and his party returned to the boat, from whence they had a view of from 60 to 100 natives, who had come down to the beach. They appeared to be of the same race as the New Hollanders, and like them were stark naked. Some muskets were fired over their heads, and hearing the bullets rustling among the trees, they walked away; and the party returned on board. The Commander was strongly urged by some of the officers, to send a force on shore, to cut down the ​cocoa nut trees for the sake of the fruit; but this proposal he peremptorily rejected, as at once unjust and cruel, since it would have occasioned a sacrifice of life, which the necessity of the case could not warrant. The boat was therefore hoisted in, and they made sail to the westward.
In coasting along New Guinea, and proceeding thence towards Java, Lieut. Cook made various observations on the islands and other objects in his rout, correcting the inaccuracies of the charts heretofore published. After passing Timor, and other islands, he arrived on monday, the 17th, at an island, where none was laid down in the charts; and all on board were agreeably surprised, to see, not only houses, fruit trees, and cultivated fields, but numerous flocks and herds, and some people on horseback, one of them in a complete European dress. Lieut. Gore, and afterwards Dr. Solander, went on shore to procure refreshments; but obtained only a few cocoa nuts, for which some linen was given in return. It was supposed at first, that the island, which was inhabited chiefly by Malays, was a Portuguese settlement; but on getting round into a bay, to which the ship was directed, they found a large Indian town, where Dutch colours were hoisted, and three guns fired. It proved to be the island of Savu. On the 18th, Lieut. Gore waited on the Rajah, or King; and informed him, through a Portuguese interpreter, that the ship was a man of war, belonging to Britain, and had sick on board, for whom refreshments were wanted. The King, whose name was A Madocho Lomi Djara, expressed his readiness to furnish supplies, but stated that he was not at liberty to trade with strangers, without the consent of the Dutch ​resident. The latter proved to be the European seen from the ship, Mr. Johan Christopher Lange, a native of Saxony; who spoke very civilly to Mr. Gore, and assured him that the British might buy of the natives what they pleased. The King and his attendants, with Mr. Lange, went on board the Endeavour, where they accepted an invitation to dinner. Dr. Solander and Mr. Sporing understanding Dutch, could converse with Mr. Lange, while others on board could talk with some of the natives who spoke Portuguese. The King desiring to have an English sheep, Mr. Cook presented him with the only one left; and on his expressing a wish to have also an English dog, Mr. Banks politely gave him his greyhound. Mr. Lange was presented with a spying glass, which he seemed to covet. They promised to bring down to the beach next day, plentiful supplies of buffaloes, sheep, hogs, and fowls. The King, before going on shore, was gratified with seeing the marines exercise, and was much struck with the precision of their movements. The royal party were dismissed with many presents, accompanied to the shore by Mr. Banks and Dr Solander; and were saluted with nine guns, for which three cheers were returned.
On the 19th, the Commander, with Mr. Banks and others, went on shore; but they were mortified. to find that the promised supplies had not come to the beach. They dined with the King on rice and pork, sitting on mats after the Indian fashion. On various pretences, the sale of refreshments was delayed by Mr. Lange; but at last, through the interest of an old Indian, to whom Lieut. Cook gave a spying glass and a sword, the market was opened; and nine buffaloes, six sheep, three ​hogs, with quantities of fowls, limes, cocoa nuts, and eggs; as also several hundred gallons of palm syrup, were procured, on pretty reasonable terms.
Among the natives of Savu, some remains of the practice of tattooing, so general in the South Seas, were observed. One of the residents here was Mr. Frederick Craig, whose office was to instruct youth in reading, writing, and the principles of Christianity. He boasted, that there were 600 Christians in that province; yet there was neither minister nor church on the whole island. The morals of the people were stated, however, to be remarkably correct. Instances of illicit commerce between the sexes were almost unknown, and cases of theft, or revenge, were of rare occurrence.
On friday, Sept. 21st, the Endeavour again set sail, on a westerly course; and came in sight of Java in the evening of the 30th. On tuesday, Oct. 2nd, a boat was sent on shore, and procured some cocoa nuts and plantains for Tupia, who was very ill; and also some herbage for the cattle. Two Dutch ships being seen off Anger Point, Lieut. Hicks was sent on board to inquire after news; and learnt, among other things, that the Swallow, Capt. Carteret, which had not returned to England when the Endeavour sailed, had been at Batavia about two years ago. On the 3rd, an officer came on board, to make inquiries concerning the ship, and its voyage; but, owing to unfavourable winds, it was not until tuesday, the 9th, that the Endeavour came to an anchor in Batavia roads. Here they found, among many other ships, the Harcourt Indiaman, with two English private traders; and during their stay, the Earl of Elgin, ​Capt. Cook, and the Phoenix, Capt. Black, also anchored in the roads.
The Commander and his friends went on shore on the 10th, and were politely received by Mr. Leith, the only respectable English resident; who invited them to dinner, and assisted them in procuring lodgings and supplies. The Lieutenant was afterwards introduced to the Dutch Governor General, who received him courteously, and promised to attend to his wants. A dreadful storm of thunder, lightning, and rain, occurred at night, when a Dutch East Indiaman, having an iron spindle at the maintop-gallant-mast head, was struck with lightning, and severely injured; while the Endeavour, which was near it, having an electrical chain, sustained no injury.
The Endeavour requiring to be thoroughly repaired, for her voyage homeward, she was removed for that purpose to the isle of Onrust; while the gentlemen connected with the expedition had lodgings on shore. The stores were landed on Cooper's Island, close adjoining to Onrust. The ship's bottom was found to be in a worse state than was supposed the false keel was almost all gone, the main keel considerably injured, a great quantity of sheathing torn off, and several planks much damaged. Some of them were so worn, for the length of six feet, as to be only an eighth of an inch in thickness! "How much misery did we escape," says the Captain, "by being ignorant that so considerable a part of the bottom of the vessel was thinner than the sole of a shoe; and that every life on board depended on such a slight and fragile barrier!"
Yet, while this discovery demanded special ​gratitude to Providence, for preserving them from shipwreck, they were now exposed to dangers that proved more fatal, and which no skill or caution on their part could shun. When they landed at Batavia, they were all rosy and plump, except Tupia. Even he was in high spirits at first, and walked in his native dress about the streets, where he was taken for Otourou, who came hither with M. Bougainville; while his boy Tayeto danced in extasy, at the sight of the houses, carriages, streets, and people. But in a few days, owing to the insalubrity of the town, situated among rivers and canals, with stagnant and putrid waters, almost every person, both on board and ashore, became afflicted with fever and tertian ague. A tent was set up for the reception of the ship's company, on the 26th; and poor Tupia, who had been lodging with Mr. Banks, desiring to breath a freer air, was conveyed by Mr. Banks, who was then ill himself, to a tent pitched for him on Cooper's Island. Soon after, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Monkhouse the Surgeon, were dangerously ill. On the 5th of November, the Surgeon first fell a sacrifice to this fatal climate; which was a serious loss to the ship company in their present sickness. Dr. Solander was just able to attend the funeral; but Mr. Banks, who had been partly delirious, was confined to bed. On the 9th, they lost poor Tayeto; and Tupia, who loved him with the tenderness of a father, was so affected at the loss, that he died a few days after. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were, by the advice of the Physician, removed into the country; where, under the care of Malay female nurses, whom they bought on purpose, they gradually recovered. By the 14th, the ship was ​found to be thoroughly repaired, very much to the satisfaction of the Commander: but now he himself was taken ill, as well as Mr. Sporing, and a seaman who had attended Mr. Banks; and at this time, not more than ten of the ship's company were fit for duty.
The rainy season having commenced about the 26th, the sufferings of our people at Batavia were greatly aggravated. On the 8th of December, the ship being perfectly refitted, and having taken in most of her water and stores, and received the sick on board, ran up from Onrust to Batavia roads; but owing to the sickly state of the men, she was not completely ready to sail till monday, the 24th. On that day, Lieut. Cook took leave of the Governor, through whom he had been supplied with money from the Company's treasury. A dispute arose at that time, about a man who had run away from a Dutch ship, and got on board the Endeavour; but as indubitable proof was obtained, that the man was a British subject, he was allowed to remain with his countrymen. On tuesday, Mr. Banks and the rest of the scientific gentlemen went on board; and on wednesday the 26th, the Endeavour sailed; on which occasion, she was saluted by the Earl of Elgin with three cheers and 13 guns, and by the garrison with 14 guns; which salutations were returned, by the help of the swivels on board. During their stay at Batavia, the ship's company lost seven of their number; viz. the Surgeon, three seamen, Mr. Green's servant, Tupia, and Tayeto: and at this time, the number of sick on board amounted to forty.
On leaving Batavia, our navigators proceeded towards the Straits of Sunda, the channel between ​Java and Sumatra; and were in that channel at the commencement of the year 1771. On the 5th of January, they anchored at Prince's Island, at the further end of the Straits, to procure wood, water, and refreshments for the sick; some of whom were much worse than when they embarked. Here the Commander went on shore, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; and were met on the beach by some Indians, who conducted them to their King. His Majesty received them kindly; but they differed with him about the price of a turtle; yet soon after, they procured a good supply, both of turtle and of water. In the evening of next day, Mr. Banks visited the King, who was dressing his own supper in his temporary palace in a rice field, where he received the stranger very graciously. Supplies of fish, fowl, deer, and vegetables, were purchased on some following days. On friday, the 11th, Messrs. Banks and Gore visited an Indian town, of about 400 houses, named Samadang, divided by a river, over which they were ferried in canoes. While the people were getting wood and water, an axe was stolen by the natives; but through the influence of the King it was restored. Mr. Banks made him several presents, and took a friendly leave of him on the 13th.
Two days after, our navigator quitted the Straits of Sunda, taking his departure from Java Head, and steering direct for the Cape of Good Hope. This was by far the most melancholy part of the voyage. The seeds of disease received at Batavia, soon began to appear in dysenteries and slow fevers. Mr. Banks was for some time among the sick, and his life was despaired of. The ship was nothing better than an hospital, in which those who were ​able to go about, were too few to attend the sick who were confined to their hammocks. Death, at last, began to make fearful havock among the ship's company; so that for some time they had almost every night a dead body to commit to the sea. In the course of about six weeks, they lost Mr. Sporing, Mr. Parkinson, Mr. Green, the boatswain, the carpenter and his mate, Mr. Monkhouse the midshipman, the sailmaker (a drunken old man, the only person not seized with sickness at Batavia), the sailmaker's assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of the marines, two of the carpenter's crew, a midshipman, and nine seamen; in all, 23 persons, besides the seven lost at Batavia.
On friday, March 15th, they anchored at the Cape of Good Hope. The Commander waited on the Governor, who promised him every thing the country could afford: and a house was immediately provided for the reception of the sick. Great as was the loss of the Endeavour, it was found that other ships had, in the voyage to India, suffered still more. The Houghton Indiaman, then at the Cape, had lost between 30 and 40 men by sickness, and had many in a helpless condition when she left the Cape for England.
Having remained here till the 13th of April, and procured a variety of stores and refreshments, Lieut. Cook got the sick on board, and took leave of the Governor. The vessel moved from the bay on the 14th, but, not having a fair wind, did not finally leave the coast till thursday, the 25th. In the afternoon of that day, they lost the Master, Mr. Robert Mollineux, a young man of good parts, but unhappily given to intemperance, which brought on disorders that shortened his days. It is melancholy ​to think, how many of our brave seamen fall victims to the beastly vice of drunkenness.
On the 1st of May, they arrived at St. Helena, where they remained till the 4th, to procure refreshments. From hence they sailed for England, in company with the Portland man of war, and twelve sail of Indiamen. On the 10th, the Commander finding his ship sailing more heavily than any of the fleet, made a signal to speak with the Portland, upon which Capt. Elliot himself came on board; when Lieut. Cook, intimating that he could not keep up with the fleet, gave him in charge a letter to the Admiralty, and a box containing some logbooks and journals. Our navigators, however, did not lose sight of the Indiamen, till the 23rd; and on the same day they lost Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant. He died of consumption, from which he was not free on leaving England. Next day, the Commander promoted Mr. Charles Clerke, a worthy young man, to act as Lieutenant in his stead.
They continued on their course till the 10th of June, when land, which proved to be the Lizard, was discovered by Nicholas Young, the same boy that first saw New Zealand. On the 11th, they ran up the channel; and on the 12th, at 3 P.M. they came to an anchor in the Downs, and landed at Deal; thus happily arriving in their native country, after an absence of two years, and nearly eight months.