# The Life and Voyages of Captain James Cook/Chapter 4

Friendly intercourse with the natives of Otaheite. Regulations for trading. Excursion into the country; its delightful aspect. Visit to Tootahah, the regent. A fort with an observatory erected. A native unfortunately shot, when stealing a musket. Death of Mr. Buchan. Lieut. Cook's strict regard to justice. Visit of Oberea. The quadrant stolen, but recovered. Divine service at the fort. Visits to Tootahah; thefts committed by the natives. Preparations for observing the Transit of Venus. The Transit successfully observed, at three different spots. The King's birthday kept. Nails stolen by some of the ship's company. Survey of the island. Manners of the natives. Improper intercourse with them. Tupia and his boy taken on board. Departure from Otaheite.
While the Endeavour was approaching Matavai Bay, which Wallis named Portroyal, several canoes came off to her from the shore, filled with natives, bearing branches of trees as tokens of peace and amity; and when these were received by the sailors, and stuck in the rigging of the ship, the natives began to trade with them, selling cocoa nuts, bread-fruit, and other products of the island, for beads and other trifles. When the ship anchored in the bay, this friendly commerce increased, to the satisfaction of both parties; and to ensure order, and prevent quarrels, the Commander issued a set of judicious regulations, to be observed by all his people in trading with the natives. Among his officers and crew, were some who had been at Otaheite in the Dolphin; and ​these, particularly Messrs. Gore and Mollineux, were now of considerable service, from their knowledge, both of the place and of the people. Among the natives who came off to the ship, was an elderly man named Owhaw, whom they immediately recognised as an old friend, who had been very serviceable to Capt. Wallis and his crew. With this friend, the Commander, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and a party of men under arms, went on shore; and were received with profound respect by a number of the natives, bearing in their hands green branches of trees, as emblems of friendship. The visitors, plucking some branches from the trees, displayed the same token; and marching on about half a mile, were conducted to the spot where the Dolphin had watered. Here the green branches were deposited, and signs were made, that the place was at the service of our navigators; an offer which was not accepted, Matavai Bay being considered a more eligible station. The party then took a walk through delightful groves of trees, laden with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, and affording the most grateful shade. Among these trees were the simple dwellings of the natives, each consisting of a roof supported by wooden pillars, and generally open on all sides. The scenes thus presented to the view of our navigators, in a circuit of four or five miles, were at once novel and enchanting, appearing to realise the poetical fables of Arcadia.
Next day, two chiefs came on board the Endeavour, and on their invitation, Lieut. Cook and his scientific friends embarked in two boats, and paid a visit to Tootahah, now regent of that part of the island; his nephew Outou, or Otoo, the young ​king, being a minor. Whappai, the father of Otoo, was alive; but possessed neither the crown, nor the regency. Tootahah, who lived at Eparre (or Pare), about four miles to the south-west of Matavai, received them in a house of uncommon length; where they were seated opposite to him upon mats, and a friendly interchange of presents took place. They were next introduced to another chief, Toubourai Tamaide, and Tomio his wife; at whose house they dined on fish, bread-fruit, &c., baked among heated stones, after the Tahitian fashion. But the banquet was suddenly broken up; for Dr. Solander and Mr. Monkhouse had their pockets picked, the former losing an opera glass, and the latter his snuff box: and Mr. Banks, demanding redress, started up, and hastily struck the butt end of his firelock on the ground; upon which almost all the company scampered off in great terror. Through the exertions of the chief, however, the stolen articles were speedily recovered; and the party returned in safety to the ship.
On saturday, April 15th, Lieut. Cook began to erect a small fort on the point of land adjoining to Matavai Bay; both to accommodate the gentlemen belonging to the expedition with lodgings on shore, and to have the astronomical instruments properly fixed, for observing the transit of Venus; from which last circumstance, the spot has ever since been named Point Venus. To prevent interruption, the Commander drew a line within a certain distance of the ground marked out; signifying to the natives, that none of them should cross that line, except some of their chiefs: a restriction to which they patiently submitted, sitting down on the outside of the circle, to witness what was going ​forward within. When a tent had been erected for Mr. Banks, the Commander and he, with some others, took a walk into the woods; leaving thirteen marines, under the command of Mr. Monkhouse, midshipman, to guard the tent. But they had not walked above half a mile, when the report of muskets made them hasten back to the tent, where they found that a lamentable occurrence had taken place. One of the natives had snatched the centinel's piece out of his hand, and run off with it; upon which, the midshipman, very inconsiderately, ordered the party to fire; and the thief not falling on this first discharge, he was pursued and shot dead. This act of barbarous cruelty was highly displeasing to the Commander, whose own behaviour towards the natives was marked with humanity and kindness, and who particularly sought to cultivate their friendship at this time, that he might prosecute with more advantage the great object of the expedition. It was some consolation to learn, that the thief was the only sufferer; and after a few days, the natives, who had all fled on the occasion, renewed their visits, and soon became as friendly as ever. A death occurred among the English at the same period. Mr. Buchan, who had been seized with fits at Terra del Fuego, and was also subject to a bilious disorder, expired on the 17th. He was buried in the sea, lest the prejudices of the natives should be hurt by interring him on shore.
On tuesday, April 18th, the erection of the fort was proceeded with; and several of the natives assisted in carrying the pickets and fascines. Great care was taken on this occasion, to set them an example of honesty; the materials wanted for the ​erection being all purchased, and not a tree cut down without the owner's consent. In other instances also, the Commander acted towards the natives with the strictest justice. The butcher of the Endeavour having threatened to kill Tomio, if she would not sell him a stone hatchet for a nail; the offence being proved by the natives, he was tied up to be flogged in their presence: but as soon as the first stroke was inflicted, they humanely interceded for his pardon; and, their request being denied, they witnessed the rest of his punishment with many tears. On a future occasion, two seamen received two dozen lashes each, for forcibly seizing several bows, arrows, and strings of plaited hair, belonging to some of the natives.
The Tahitians had much need of such lessons on the subject of honesty; for they were continually pilfering nails, and other European articles, when opportunity offered. Yet they appeared sensible of the immorality, or disgrace, such practices; for when Mr. Banks, by mistake, charged Toubourai Tamaide with having stolen a knife which was missing, the chief felt highly indignant at the charge. At another time, however, with all this sense of honour, he could not resist the temptation presented by some large nails which he saw in Mr. Banks's tent: five of them were stolen by the chief, one of which only he returned. In dealing with such people, caution was required as much as fairness; and the trading department was ably conducted by Mr. Banks, who stationed himself for this purpose in his small boat, fixed up at the entrance of the fort; where the natives sold their fruits, fowls, and pigs, for beads nails, knives, and hatchets.
​Among the persons of various ranks who visited the ship, or the fort, were several females; but it was not till the 28tli of April, that Mr. Mollineux recognised as a new visitor the celebrated Oberea, who holds so conspicuous a place in the narrative of Capt. Wallis, by whom she was considered as the queen of the island. She was nearly related to the young king Otoo; her husband, Oamo, being his uncle, and brother to Tootahah. She paid many visits to the fort and the ship, but disgraced herself by several petty thefts. Her son, Terridiri, was brought one day to the fort by his father, Oamo, in royal state, borne on a person's shoulders, accompanied by his sister, who was his intended wife. The natives uncovered the upper part of their bodies in their presence; a mark of respect paid to royalty: and would not allow their sacred persons to be in the tent.
The most daring and serious theft committed by the natives, occurred on the 1st. of May, or early on the 2nd. The fort had been completed, and six swivel guns mounted on it, a few days before; and on monday. May 1st, the observatory was set up, and the astronomical quadrant, with other instruments, taken on shore. Next morning, when the Commander and Mr. Green were proceeding to fix the quadrant, they were much surprised and grieved to find that it was missing; and although a diligent search was made, both in the ship and at the fort, it was no where to be seen. Upon this, Mr. Banks, who had great influence with the natives, set out to inquire for it in the woods, accompanied by Mr. Green and a midshipman. They soon met Toubourai Tamaide, who by making the figure of a triangle, with three bits of straw on his hand, ​informed them that he knew what they were seeking. They pressed him to go with them in pursuit of the thief; but when they had proceeded four miles, he pointed to a place three miles further, to which the quadrant had been carried. Conceiving that it might be dangerous to advance so far into the interior unprotected, Messrs. Banks and Green sent back the midshipman to bring a party to support them, while they moved forward with their guide to the spot which he had pointed out. Here, to their great joy, they recovered the quadrant, with a horse pistol and other articles formerly stolen. On their way back, they met the Commander with a party, hastening to their aid; and they all returned together, with mutual congratulations on the success of an expedition, of so much importance for the great object of their voyage.
Their joy was somewhat damped, on finding at their return, that Lieutenants Gore and Hicks, mistaking their instructions, had taken Tootahah into custody, and kept him a prisoner at the fort; to the no small concern of the natives, who imagined that he was going to be put to death. The Commander instantly released him; when their tears and lamentations gave place to transports of joy, although some days elapsed before they could forget the indignity done to their governor. To regain his friendship and theirs, and to restore the trade in provisions which had been seriously interrupted, Messrs. Cook and Banks, with Dr. Solander and others, paid a visit to Tootahah, on friday. May 5th, at his residence at Eparre; where they were kindly received, and treated with the sight of a grand public wrestling match, not unlike what prevailed among the ancient Greeks.
​On Sunday, the 14th, Divine Service was performed at the fort; and Mr. Banks brought Toubourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio to attend it. They behaved with great propriety during the service; standing, sitting, or kneeling, as they saw Mr. Banks do: but they made no inquiries into the nature and design of this exercise, and paid no attention to the attempts that were made to explain it to them. Many years were yet to pass by, ere the inhabitants of this island should receive Christianity, and enjoy its blessings.
On Saturday, the 27th, six gentlemen, including the Commander, paid another visit to Tootahah, who was then at Atahourou, about fifteen miles from the ship. They succeeded badly in their main object, which was to obtain a larger supply of hogs, and other provisions; and a singular concert and show, with which they were treated late at night, proved but a small recompense for their disappointments and losses. Mr. Banks lost nearly all his clothes, together with his pistols and other property, although he had put them under the special protection of Oberea, in whose large canoe he slept. Each of the other visitors lost some part of his dress, except Dr. Solander.
In various excursions into the interior, Mr. Banks had opportunities of enriching his collection of plants, and other specimens in natural history; and he also employed himself in adding to the vegetable products of the island, by planting, both near the fort and in the woods, the seeds of watermelons, oranges, lemons, limes, &c., collected at Rio Janeiro; that the natives, as well as future voyagers, might have a richer supply of wholesome food. Of the quadrupeds of the island, which are ​few in number, dogs, as well as hogs, are eaten. The English gentlemen one day partook of a dog, presented by Oberea, and found it to be a very good dish. It is observable, that Tupia killed it in the way which we now call burking, by holding his hands close over the mouth and nose for a quarter of an hour; and then baked it in a Tahitian oven, viz. in a hole in the ground among hot stones.
In one of his expeditions, Mr. Banks explored the romantic valley of Matavai for several miles, tracing the stream upwards between its steep banks, which in some parts are richly adorned with vegetation, and in others present naked rocks, which are clearly of volcanic origin. Had be persevered a little further, he would have found what has since been discovered, a lofty cliff of columnar basalt, rising to the height of 200 ft., and 300 ft. in extent. This grand colonnade is described in the Journal of Messrs. Tyerman and Bennet, vol. i, p. 140.
While Saturday, June 3rd, the important day of the transit of Venus, was drawing nigh, uncommon anxiety was felt about fulfilling the wishes of the Royal Society; and in consequence of some hints received from the Earl of Morton, their President, the Commander, to guard against disappointments, and ensure greater accuracy, resolved to have the transit observed, not only at the fort, but at two other points, in different directions. Mr. Gore, Mr. Banks, Mr. Monkhouse the surgeon, and Mr. Sporing, accompanied by Toubourai Tamaide, Tomio, and other natives, proceeded on thursday morning in the long-boat to the island of Eimeo, twelve or fourteen miles to the west of Otaheite; taking with them proper instruments for making ​observations. Another set of instruments being committed to Messrs. Hicks, Clerk, Pickersgill, and Saunders, these gentlemen proceeded on friday in the pinnace, to fix on another point of observation to the east of Matavai. The Commander, with Mr. Green and Dr. Solander, remained at the observatory, where the best astronomical instruments were set up. Through anxiety about the weather, and the results of next day's proceedings, none of the parties could sleep soundly during friday night; but next morning, to their great joy, they saw the sun rise without a cloud; and at each of the three stations, the day continued clear, and every way favourable for astronomical observations. Owing to the atmosphere of the planet, there was some difficulty in marking the times of contact. According to Mr. Green, the first external contact was, 9h. 25m. 42s. A.M.; internal contact, or total immersion, 9h. 44m. 4s. A.M.; beginning of emersion, 3h. 14m. 8s. P.M.; end of the transit, 3h. 32m. 10s. The transit thus occupied more than six hours. The latitude of the observatory was ascertained to be 17° 29' 15" S; the longitude, 149° 32' 30" W.
During the observations at Eimeo, Mr. Banks had much friendly intercourse with the natives, particularly with Tarrao, the King, and his sister Nuna; to whom, and to other natives, he shewed the appearance of the planet on the sun's disc. The three parties of astronomers met together on monday the 5th, which was kept as the King's birth-day, with much joy, and mutual congratulation, on the results of their service. But our joys are seldom without alloy, and on this occasion the officers were grieved at discovering that, while they were closely engaged with their astronomical ob​servations, some of the ship's company had broken into a store-room, and stolen a quantity of spike nails, amounting to no less than a hundred weight. One of the culprits was detected and punished, but only seven of the nails were recovered. A few days after, when a coal rake, and some other articles, had been stolen from the fort, the Commander detained some canoes laden with fish, to ensure the restitution of the stolen property; but as they belonged to individuals of small influence, the measure was but partially successful, the coal rake only being restored. When the canoes were afterwards delivered up, a chief named Potattow made a fraudulent attempt to take one of them as his own; but the trick being reported to Mr. Cook, he ordered it to be restored to the rightful owners.
On monday, June 26th, the Commander, with Mr. Banks and others, set out in the pinnace to make a survey of the whole island; and the survey was not completed till Saturday, July 1st. Otaheite (better written Taheite, or Tahiti, the O being only a prefix,) was found to consist of two peninsulas, connected by a low marshy isthmus; and its whole circuit was ascertained to be about thirty leagues. The rocks, which rise to a great height in the interior, bear marks of volcanic origin, while the shore is, for the most part, surrounded by a coral reef; as in many other S. Sea islands. Much interesting information was obtained in this tour, as well as before and after, respecting the products of the island, the manners of the natives, &c. Several of their morals, which were both sepulchres and places of worship, were visited. The most magnificent was that of Oamo and Oberea, which occupied an area of 360 feet by 354; ​having on one side a pyramid of stone work, 44 feet high, on an oblong base 267 feet by 87. The natives, instead of burying a dead body, placed it in a sitting or reclining posture, on a kind of hammock or cot, supported by posts, and covered with an awning; and when the flesh was wasted away, they interred the bones in the morai. Their altars were a kind of scaffolds, supported by wooden pillars where offerings of hogs, dogs, fish, plantains, &c, were left for their gods. Very few of their idols were observed. The southern peninsula, named Tiarabu, was found to be a distinct kingdom, not under the sway of Tootahah, but having its own independent chief, Waheatua.
The people of Otaheite were observed to be remarkably hospitable, kind, and open, and very attentive to personal cleanliness; but their character, in other respects, was grossly immoral. Their propensity to steal and defraud has already been noticed; and they were so lacivious, as to have no sense of modesty or decency. The females would openly lay themselves down on mats, and invite the strangers to their embraces. On one occasion, a youth and a girl performed the rites of Venus in presence of a large company, while Oberea herself stood by, and gave directions, as mistress of the ceremonies. At another time, a female of rank, who visited Mr. Banks at his tent with a present, paid her respects to him, by lifting her garments up to her waist, turning round to him three times, and then dropping them. Our navigators discovered, that a large and popular society existed in the island, called the society of the arreoy, including several persons of rank, of both sexes; the object of whose association was the unrestrained ​indulgence of lust, by promiscuous intercourse, and abominable licentiousness. And here, as is often the case, cruelty and lust were combined; the members being bound, on pain of expulsion, to murder their infant offspring at the birth, lest the rearing of children should interrupt their criminal pleasures. Adultery incurred so little disgrace, that Oberea, the wife of Oamo, openly kept a paramour named Obadee; and was not at all disconcerted, when Mr. Banks surprised them together in her canoe.
It is much to be regretted, that instead of discountenancing the licentiousness of the natives, the seamen of the Endeavour, like those of the Dolphin, and of the two French ships commanded by Bougainville, disgraced themselves by indulging in illicit intercourse with the females of Otaheite. Such practices are not only highly immoral and degrading, but tend to the subversion of discipline and good order. The attachments thus formed by the crew of the Endeavour, were attended with consequences that threatened to prove serious; for when the ship was nearly ready to set sail, two of the marines absconded with two girls, resolving to remain on the island; and in order to recover them, the Commander was forced to take Tootahah and other chiefs into custody, and to detain them on board, till through their influence and authority the fugitives were restored.
During the three months spent at Otaheite, attachments of a more honourable nature began to be formed; Tupia in particular, the high-priest of the island, and formerly prime minister of Oberea, conceived a warm friendship for the English, and often expressed a desire to accompany them. ​When the fort had been demolished, and the useful materials embarked, Tupia came on board, with his servant Tayeto, a boy of thirteen, and begged to be allowed to proceed with them on the voyage; and as it was desirable, on many accounts, for our navigators to have such a companion, especially to facilitate their intercourse with the natives of other islands, his request was cheerfully granted.
On thursday, July 13th, the day appointed for setting sail, the ship was very early crowded with natives, who came to take their leave, while multitudes of canoes pressed around, filled with natives, who had come to have a parting sight of their English friends, and their countryman, Tupia. When the vessel got under weigh, the Tahitians expressed their grief by loud lamentations. Tupia, on this affecting occasion, strove to suppress his tears with a firmness which did him honour: and afterwards went to the mast-head with Mr. Banks, waving to the canoes as long as they were in sight.