# The Life and Voyages of Captain James Cook/Chapter 6

Discovery of New Zealand. Landings in Poverty Bay. Hostile attacks of the natives: some of them kilted. Three boys taken on board, and kindly treated. Friendly intercourse with the natives established. Voyage southward to Capo Turnagain, and from thence northward, along the east coast. Various incidents during the voyage, and different places visited. Tegadoo—Tolaga—Mercury Bay—River Thames. Attack by the natives in the Bay of Islands. Transactions there. Navigation round the North Cape, and along the west coast to Queen Charlotte's Sound. Incidents there; the New Zealanders found to be cannibals. Discovery of Cook's Strait, dividing New Zealand into two islands. Circumnavigation of both islands completed. Memorials of Cook's discoveries left in that country. Everett's Verses, occasioned by the discovery of one of these memorials by a Missionary.
Having proceeded as far as 40° 22' S. latitude, and encountered strong gales, without any signs of land, Lieut. Cook altered his course, advancing in a westerly direction; and after observing several birds, seals, and bunches of sea-weed, which indicated an approach to some shore, land was at last seen from the mast-head, on the 6th of October, by Nicholas Young, a boy; after whom the first headland observed was named Young Nick's Head. Next day, the land was perceived very distinctly; and its aspect differed greatly from that of the islands lately visited. Four or five ranges of hills appeared to rise one above another, with a chain of lofty mountains above all, having part of their ​summits covered with snow. Our navigators naturally supposed, that they had at last discovered the terra incognita australis, the great southern continent, so long sought for; but it proved to be Staaten Land, or New Zealand, first seen by Tasman, a Dutch navigator, Dec. 13, 1642, and now for the first time re-discovered.
In approaching the shore, on the 7th, and 8th, the hills and valleys were perceived to be generally clothed with woods, containing some trees of an immense size; and from the smoke that arose in various parts, the country was known to be inhabited.
Having cast anchor in a bay, which was afterwards named Poverty Bay, the Commander, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and others, went on shore with the pinnace and yawl, at the mouth of a small river. The natives, whom they saw on the banks, fled at their approach; but while the gentlemen were proceeding to visit some huts, four men, armed with long lances, rushed out of the woods towards the yawl, which was left in charge of four boys. The cockswain of the pinnace, after calling to the boys to drop down the stream, fired twice over the heads of the men who were pursuing them; but as they persisted notwithstanding in the attack, one of them was shot dead while he was in the act of lifting his spear to dart it against the boat. The other three stood motionless, as if thunder-struck; and then hastily retreated, dragging their dead companion for a short space. The English upon this, after examining the body, returned on board the ship.
Next day, the Commander and his friends landed again, with a strong party of seamen and marines, ​and addressing the natives through Tupia, whose language was found to be the same as theirs, though a different dialect, endeavoured to engage them in a friendly trade. Some of them coming near, received presents of beads and nails, of which last they knew not the use. When some of them attempted to seize the arms of the British, Tupia warned them of the consequences; yet presently after, one of them snatched away Mr. Green's hanger, and ran off with it, waving it in triumph. Mr. Banks fired at him with small shot; upon which he retreated further, still waving the stolen weapon. Mr. Monkhouse then shot him dead, and with some difficulty secured the hanger, from other natives who ran to seize it. Some more small shot was fired, before the other warriors retired up the country.
Disappointed in these attempts to establish a friendly intercourse with the natives, the Commander resolved, if possible, to surprise some of them, and take them on board, that by presents and kind treatment, he might gain their friendship, and by their means open a correspondence with their countrymen. Accordingly, when he had quitted the shore, he placed the three boats so as to intercept two canoes that were coming in from the sea. One of them was rapidly paddled towards the shore, and escaped; and the seven people on board the other, boldly resolved to fight, rather than surrender; although a musket had been fired over their heads to frighten them, and Tupia had given them assurances of safety, if they came along-side as friends. When the Commander's boat came up, they began a furious attack with paddles, stones, and other weapons; and the Brit​ish firing in self defence, four were unhappily shot: the other three, who were youths, leaped into the water, but were taken. Lieut. Cook deeply regretted this unexpected slaughter, and acknowledged that it could not be defended on the principles of justice and humanity; as these poor creatures did not deserve death for refusing to confide in strangers. But in taking this step he was not aware that it would occasion such blood-shed; and he was extremely anxious to get some of the natives in his power, to convince them, and their countrymen, of his friendly intentions.
The captives, when taken on board expecting nothing but death, were overjoyed to find themselves treated with kindness. They were clothed and fed; and Tupia took great pains to comfort and cheer them. In the evening, they so far recovered their spirits, as to sing one of their songs: the air was solemn, like a Psalm tune, and performed with considerable taste and skill. Next morning, they were dressed, and adorned with bracelets, anclets, and necklaces; and were delighted to learn that they were to be set on shore: but when the boat made for the landing place near the river, they intreated that they might not be set ashore there, as the inhabitants were their enemies who would kill and eat them; and they pointed to another part of the bay as their own home. It was necessary, however, to land near the river, as a party had gone thither to cut wood : but when a large body of the natives came down towards the beach, the boys suddenly quitted the bushes to which they had retired, and claimed the protection of their English friends. When the latter were about to reimbark, lest a new quarrel, and further ​bloodshed, should take place; the youngest of the boys espied his uncle among the natives, and begged his protectors to stay and talk with them. The river being between the parties, a parley commenced by means of Tupia. The three boys shewed their countrymen the ornaments which they had received; and then going to the body of the man who was killed the day before, lying near them on the beach, they covered it with a part of the clothes that had been given them. Upon this, the boy's uncle swam across, bringing a green branch, which was received by the hands of Tupia; and many presents were given him in return. He declined an invitation to go on board the ship, and was left on the beach; where, having pulled another green branch, he laid it on the dead body, with much ceremony: and the body was afterwards carried off by the natives on a kind of bier. All this being considered as a ratification of peace, the boys, who had preferred embarking with their new friends, consented after dinner to be put ashore; and although, on being landed, they still shewed a reluctance to part with the English, they were afterwards observed among the natives unhurt; and were seen to come down and wave their hands three times towards the ship, after which they retired with several companions in the direction of their home.
Next day, four men came on board from a canoe, and afterwards many others; all of whom were treated with presents, while some also engaged in trade, selling their clothes, paddles, and weapons, for articles on board. They stated, that the three boys were safe at home, and that they themselves had been encouraged to come on board, by hearing ​of the kind treatment which the boys had received. They invited the Commander to return into the bay, which he was now leaving; but he chose rather to proceed southward along the coast, in quest of a better harbour, and to make further researches. When the canoes departed, three men were accidentally left behind; and they were so far from feeling uneasy, that they entertained the ship's company with dancing and singing. Next morning, however, they were in great consternation, and uttered loud wailings, with many tears, when they found that the ship had carried them so far from home. But two canoes having approached, they invited the people to come alongside and receive them, assuring their countrymen, that the strangers in the ship did not eat men. In one of the canoes was a chief, who came on board, handsomely dressed, and having a patoo-patoo, a short weapon like a battledoor, made of bone, instead of the usual material, green talc, or jade. The three men went away with him, to the satisfaction of all parties.
In coasting along, our navigators observed several patches of cultivated ground; and saw also some fortified towns, inclosed with high rails, situated on detached rocks, or other strong positions. The natives, at different points, came off in canoes; but generally kept at a distance. On the 14th, five large canoes, with 80 or 90 aimed men on board, approached the ship, and began to sing their war song, and brandish their spears for action. Tupia informed them, that there were weapons on board, which would, like thunder, destroy them in a moment, if they persisted in any hostile attempt; and a shot being then fired wide of them, they were so alarmed at the flash, the report, and the sight of ​the grape-shot spreading far in the water, that they paddled off in great terror. Tupia called to them to come unarmed, and they would be kindly treated; and the people of one canoe, leaving their arms in another, accepted the invitation, and received some presents. Next day, several canoes came off, and sold fish and other articles; but when Tayeto, Tupia's boy, was over the ship's side, among others, handing up what was bought, one of the New Zealanders suddenly seized him, and dragged him down into the canoe, where two men held him, while the rest plied their paddles vigorously, the other canoes following with all speed. The marines being ordered to fire into the canoe, one man dropped, and the rest quitting their hold of Tayeto, he leaped into the sea, and swam towards the ship; and some muskets and a great gun being fired at the canoe which turned to pursue him, he escaped on board. After recovering from his fright, the little boy brought a fish to Tupia, as an offering to his Eatua, or god, in gratitude for his preservation; and Tupia, commending his piety, directed him to throw it into the sea. It were well if all seamen, on obtaining signal deliverances, shewed equal gratitude to the true and living God.—Some of the gentlemen, who looked after the canoes with their glasses, saw three men carried up the beach from them, either dead or severely wounded. The cape where this unhappy event occurred, was named Cape Kidnappers.
Having proceeded along the coast as far as 40° 34', S. latitude, the Commander, on tuesday, Oct. 18th, seeing no appearance of a good harbour, and the aspect of the country growing manifestly worse, turned back to examine the more northerly parts ​of the coast; giving the name Cape Tumagain to the last point of land then observed. On Wednesday, two chiefs came on board from a canoe, and being very kindly treated, as they had heard others had been, resolved to stay all night in the ship, together with their servants; their canoe being hoisted on deck. Next morning, when they took their departure, they were surprised to find themselves so far from home.
On the 20th, the Endeavour anchored in a bay called Tegadoo, to the north of Poverty Bay; and during two days spent there, the natives shewed much friendship, and traded honestly with fish and sweet potatoes. Plantations of the latter, and of coccos and gourds, inclosed with fences of reeds, were visited by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. The natives lived chiefly on fish, with fern roots for bread. They had no animals but dogs, which, like the Tahitians, they used for food. The men, at least the chiefs, had their faces, as well as various parts of their bodies, tattooed, in spiral lines. The faces of the women, and of some of the men, were besmeared with a mixture of red ocre and oil, which was transferred to the noses of such as saluted them. The natives of both sexes were generally dressed in cloth made of the New Zealand flax, sometimes ornamented with pieces of the skins of dogs or of seals. They were more fierce than the Tahitians, but did not disgrace themselves by the same lasciviousness, and appeared remarkably vigorous and healthy. It was noticed as a token of their cleanliness, that every cluster of houses had a temple of Cloacina. In the afternoon of the 21st, while the boats were employed in getting water, Mr. Banks and his party, who were very successful in collecting ​plants and rare birds, engaged a canoe to take them on board. In their first embarkation, they overset their frail barge in the surf, but eventually they all reached the ship in safety.
On the 22nd, Lieut. Cook removed into another bay called Tolaga, a little to the southward; which was pointed out by the natives as more convenient for his purpose. Here the Endeavour anchored for a whole week, taking in copious supplies of water, wood, and excellent celery. The armourer's forge was set up, to repair the iron work; a friendly trade was carried on with the natives; their houses, fortresses, and canoes were examined; one of the latter being very large, measuring 68 ft. in length; their military exercises were exhibited, and their hideous war-song chanted. The plants, and natural curiosities of the place, were also carefully observed; particularly some singular perforated rocks.
On monday, Oct. 30th, our navigators proceeded on their voyaged In their progress northward, for some days, several canoes, full of armed men, came off at different points, and threatened an attack; but the firing of a shot or two quickly dispersed them. The country appeared more populous, as they proceeded; and the number and size of the canoes that came off, increased. On Saturday, Nov. 4th, the Endeavour anchored in a bay that was named Mercury Bay, from the observation of the transit of Mercury there, on thureday the 9th. During ten days spent here, good supplies of mackerel and other fish were obtained; partly by hauling the seine, but chiefly by purchase. Oysters and other shell-fish were also plentiful; and wild fowl, particularly shags and ducks. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made great additions to ​their collections of plants. The intercourse with the natives was for the most part friendly; opportunities were enjoyed of seeing their strong-holds, and witnessing an exhibition of their mode of attack and defence. On the 9th, however, while Lieut. Gore had the charge of the ship, a man who sold him an article of native dress for a piece of British cloth, paddled off with the cloth without delivering the article; a species of fraud which had been successfully practised by several of the natives : and Mr. Gore was so provoked by the insolent manner in which the fellow held up the cloth, and bid him defiance, that he shot him dead. The Commander regretted, that the effect of small shot had not been tried in this instance, as it had succeeded in others. Yet the natives made no attempt to revenge his death, regarding it as the just punishment of his crime.
After taking formal possession of the country in the name of His Majesty, our navigators sailed from Mercury Bay, on Wednesday, Nov. 15th, and proceeded along the coast. An old chief, called Toiava, was very useful to them while in the bay; and his name was of service to them on other parts of the coast. The services of Tupia also continued to be very efficient: he remonstrated very eloquently with those natives who, from time to time, approached the ship with hostile intentions. On the 18th and 19th, a large river was discovered, which from its resemblance to London river, was denominated the Thames. Here the vessel remained a few days, while observations were making on the coast, and up the river; on the banks of which were some trees of immense size, one of them measuring about 20 ft. in girth, and 89 ft. from the root ​to the first branch. The natives were very friendly: they knew Toiava, and had heard of Tupia, whom they addressed by name. They traded fairly, and for the most part behaved well: but on the 22nd, a young man who was on deck, being detected in stealing a minute glass, was punished with twelve lashes, by order of Lieut. Hicks, then in command. This gave great offence to the natives, and they entirely deserted the ship.
On the 24th, the Endeavour sailed from the river Thames, proceeding to the west and north, according to the direction of the coast. The natives came off in canoes, at various points; and sometimes gave annoyance by hostile demonstrations, or by dishonesty in trading; so that it was necessary, in some instances, to frighten them with fire arms, as well as to employ Tupia's remonstrances. But nothing serious occurred till Wednesday the 29th, when the ship was at anchor in a bay among many islands, from which the place was named the Bay of Islands. The Commander, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went with the pinnace and yawl, manned and aimed, to an island near the ship. When they were on shore in a cove, the natives who had been visiting the vessel in many canoes, landed on the island also, and crowded around the cove, lO the number of two or three hundred. After remaining quiet for a time, a party of them ran to each boat, to draw it on shore, while the rest began to press in upon Mr. Cook and his friends. Upon this, he and Mr. Banks, with two men, fired on them with small shot; which made them retreat in confusion. One of their chiefs tried to rally them, rushing forward with his patoo-patoo; but on the discharge of Dr. ​Solander's piece, this champion ran off with the rest; and a few shots being soon after tired from the ship over their heads, they were wholly dispersed. "In this skirmish," says Capt. Cook, "only two of the Indians were hurt with the small shot, and not a single life was lost; which would not have been the case, if I had not restrained the men; who, either from fear, or the love of mischief, shewed as much impatience to destroy them, as a sportsman to kill his game." This was not the only instance, in which the humanity and prudence of our great navigator saved many lives.
Having gathered some celery in the cove, the Commander and his friends proceeded to examine a cave in the rocks, when an old chief came forth, with his wife and brother, and in a suppliant tone begged for protection. They spake kindly to him, and made him some presents; and when he expressed great solicitude for another brother who had been wounded, they assured him that he would recover. From the top of a hill, in the same island, they enjoyed an extensive view of the bay, which was uncommonly romantic and interesting; being filled with innumerable islands, forming as many harbours, where the water was as smooth as a mill-pond. Numerous towns, horses, and plantations were also in sight, the country being more populous than any part of the coast hitherto visited. Friendly intercourse, and fair trade, were carried on with numbers of the inhabitants, during some days, while the ship was detained here by calms and contrary winds. As some of the natives had been punished for theft, so it was necessary at this place to punish three of the ship's crew, who had broken into a plantation, and dug up some ​potatoes; for the Commander resolved to dispense equal justice to New Zealanders and Britons.
The Bay of Islands, then for the first time visited by Europeans, has since been the scene of many interesting transactions. Of late years, it has been distinguished as the principal seat of Christianity in New Zealand. Here the first sermon in that country was preached, in 1814, by the Rev. S. Marsden, A.M., senior Chaplain in New South Wales; and through his zealous exertions, and the faithful and persevering labours of the Ministers and Catechists employed by the Church Missionary Society, much progress has been made in christianizing and civilizing the rude inhabitants.
In quitting the Bay of Islands, on tuesday, Dec. 5th, the Endeavour was in great danger of driving ashore, being within a cable length of the breakers; and after escaping this danger, she actually struck on a rock, but providentially went off without receiving the slightest damage. Encountering stormy weather in his progress along the coast. Lieutenant Cook did not reach the North Cape till the 17th: and after standing off and on for about a week at the northern extremity of the country, the land first seen by Tasman, he proceeded southward, along the west coast; where the country, in many places, appeared desolate and barren.
On monday, Jan. 15th, 1770, the Endeavour, after much sailing, was brought to an anchor in a cove on the N. W. side of a spacious bay, which was named Queen Charlotte's Sound; and remained there three weeks. Here wood and water were had in abundance, with a copious supply of excellent fish; the armourer's forge was set up, for repairs; and the vessel was careened. Mr. Banks ​and Dr. Solander enjoyed themselves in botanizing, and the Commander in surveying the adjacent coasts. In this task he engaged with his wonted diligence and zeal, searching every bay and cove, examining every island and rock, and ascending the hills in different places, to take the general bearings of the land, and make remarks on the grand features of the country. In the mean time, our navigators had much fair trade and friendly intercourse with the natives; which nothing occurred to interrupt, except that, on January 21st, which, being Sunday, was very improperly given to the crew as a. holiday, to spend in amusement, one of the officers approaching a heppah, or village, with a boat, and seeing some New Zealanders coming in canoes to visit him, imagined that their intentions were hostile, and firing three muskets, wounded some of them.
Among those who visited the ship, was an old man named Topaa, who was particularly friendly and serviceable. Through him, as well as by other moans, indubitable proof was obtained, that the New Zealanders
    Had found a secret out, which birds or beasts, Most cruel, cunning, treacherous, never knew,—The luxury of devouring one another.
It was their practice to roast and eat the bodies of their enemies slain in battle. Seven men had lately been devoured by the people near the cove; some, of their bones were seen and examined, the natives acknowledged having eaten the flesh, and one of them gnawing a bone, and drawing it through his mouth, made signs that it had afforded ​a delicious repast. The heads of the slain men were not eaten, except the brains; but were cured and preserved as trophies. Four of them were brought on board by Topaa, and Mr. Banks purchased one as a curiosity, while others procured specimens of the bones. This was the commencement of a traffic which has since been carried on so extensively, that almost every Museum in Britain contains a New Zealand chiefs head. Three specimens, finely tattooed, are in the Whitby Museum.
During their stay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, the ship's company had abundant supplies of fish, celery, and other refreshments; and early every morning, were gratified with the wild melody of myriads of birds, which sounded like small bells exquisitely tuned.
On tuesday, February 6th, the Endeavour left Queen Charlotte's Sound, and after escaping imminent danger, in clearing some rocks, where the tide formed a rapid current, proceeded in a S. E. direction, to the entrance of a strait, which had been seen by the Commander from the tops of the mountains, and was found to divide New Zealand into two large islands. Through this strait, henceforth called Cook's Strait, our navigators passed; and the Commander then sailed in a N. E. direction, till he was in sight of Cape Turnagain, which had been observed in coasting southward on the other side of the island; and thus he convinced all on board, that they had circumnavigated an island, of which some of his officers had previously expressed a doubt.
Altering his course to the southward, Lieut Cook circumnavigated also the whole of the south​ern division of New Zealand, doubling the South Cape, and returning northward along the west coast, till he reached the vicinity of Queen Charlotte's Sound. In making this circuit, which proved that this country was no part of the expected southern continent, all the skill and vigilance of our great navigator were required, to shun the dangers arising from numerous rocks and shoals on the coast, and encounter the difficulties occasioned by unfavourable winds, and boisterous weather. In this circumnavigation, he sometimes gave way to the opinion of the officers on board, sailing in a direction where they thought they saw land, while he was sure there was none: but when many advised him to enter a cove or harbour on the west side of the island, he decidedly refused, perceiving from the steep and lofty rocks which formed the entrance, that the wind there must either blow light out, or right in; and that although they might then easily enter, it might be a month before they could get a wind to bring them out.
Several islands were discovered towards the South Cape, to one of which was given the name Banks, while another was called Solander. The whole country of New Zealand was found to lie between 34 and 48° of S. latitude, and between 181 and 194° of W. longitude. The southern division was more barren, and more thinly inhabited, than the northern; and a good part of the interior was then covered with snow.
On the 27th of March, the Endeavour entered a bay, which was named Admiralty Bay, about ten leagues N.W. of Queen Charlotte's Sound; and having taken in a supply of wood and water, was ready to sail on the 31st.
​In his intercourse with the natives, Lieut. Cook discovered, that the New Zealanders were divided into several independent tribes, or states. Along a great part of the east coast, the inhabitants acknowledged a chief called Teratu for their king; but his authority did not extend to the Bay of Islands, nor to Queen Charlotte's Sound; nor was the one of these places dependant on the other.
To preclude the claims or pretensions of future navigators. Cook was careful to leave, in various parts of New Zealand, memorials of his discovery. In Mercury Bay, the name of the ship, and that of the Commander, with the date, were cut on one of the trees near the watering place; while the British flag was displayed, and the country formally taken possession of, in the name of King George III. The same ceremony was observed at Queen Charlotte's Sound; where also two posts, with the names and dates as before, were set up, one near the watering place, and the other on the highest part of the adjacent island of Motuara, At this last, a bottle of wine was drunk to the health of her Majesty; and the empty bottle, with other articles, joyfully received by the old chief, Topaa. On the main land, two small pyramids of stone were erected on two different hills; and balls, beads, coins, and other European articles deposited in them.
Yet these were not the only memorials left in New Zealand, to record the visit of our illustrious navigator: another was observed about seventeen years ago, by the Rev. Samuel Leigh, under circumstances particularly interesting. This gentleman, connected with the Wesleyan Missionary Society, who commenced a Mission in New ​Zealand in 1822, paid a previous visit to the Bay of Islands, and other places in the northern part of that country, in 1818; and in one of his walks near the shore, he was delighted to meet the name COOK inscribed on a rock. When Mr. Leigh, on his return to England, related the circumstance, the recital produced the following beautiful verses from the pen of his friend, the Rev. James Everett, now of Newcastle, which he has entitled
THE MISSIONARY AND THE MARINER.