# The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier/Persian Travels/Book 1/Chapter 3

CHAP. III.
A Continuation of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan, from the Borders of Persia to Erivan.
The first Place worthy Observation, entring into Persia thorough Armenia, is that which they call the Three Churches, three Leagues from Erivan, which Three Churches, are three Monasteries distant one from the other. The biggest and the fairest is the Residence of the Patriarch of the Armenians. There is another to the South of that, about a Musket-shot distant, and another a quarter of a League from it toward the East, which is a ​Nunnery for Virgins. The Armenians call this place Egmiasin, or the Only Daughter, which is the Name of the chief Church. You may find in their Chronicles, That it began to be Built about three hundred Years after Christ, and that the Walls being rais'd to a good height, the Devil came in the Night and pull'd down what they built up in the Day; which he did for several Years: but that one Night Christ himself appear'd, and that from that time the Devil surceas'd to molest them any more; so that they finish'd the Church. It is dedicated to St. Gregory, whom the Armenians have in very great veneration. And there is a Table of Stone, whereupon, according to their Chronicles, Christ rested when he appear'd to St. Gregory. They that go into the Church, kiss this Stone with a very solemn Devotion.
The Second is built in honour of a Princess that came with forty Virgins of Quality to visit St. Gregory. This Lady an Armenian King caus'd to be thrown into a Well full of Serpents; but she receiv'd no harm. For she liv'd therein 14 Years by a great Miracle, and from that time to this, the Serpents that breed thereabouts never did any harm. That Idolatrous King had a design to have enjoy'd that Princess, who was very handsom, and all her Companions; but they overcame him by their Virtue: who thereupon, seeing he could not have his Will, put them all to Death.
The Custom of all the Armenians, as well those that come out of Persia, as those that travel into Persia, is to perform their Devotions at these Three Churches; and the Caravan stops usually five or six days, during which time they Confess, and receive Absolution from the Patriarch.
The Patriarch has under him forty seven Archbishops, and every Archbishop has under him four or five Suffragans, with whom he lives in a Convent, where there are several Monks under their Jurisdiction. So soon as they have said their Mass, which is generally done an Hour after Day, they all go to work, and to dig and delve for their living. The Revenue of the Patriarch is 600000 Crowns or thereabouts: for all the Armenian Christians that are above fifteen Years of age, ought to pay him yearly five Sous. However there are many that do not pay him, by reason of their poverty. Yet their defect is suppli'd by the rich, who sometimes pay him two or three Crowns a Head. But this Money does not stay in the Patriach's Pocket: nay he is sometimes behind-hand, for he is engag'd to relieve the poor Armenians, who have not wherewithal to pay the Carage, which is an Annual Tribute that they owe to the Mahometan Princes, to whom they are subject: Otherwise necessity would force them to become Mahometans; and they, their Wives and Children would be liable to be sold, which the Grand Patriarch labours all he can to prevent. Every Archbishop sends him out of his Diocess what is necessary to be rais'd for that intent. So that the Patriarch does but only receive it with one Hand, and pay it with the other; making no Profit to himself of a Revenue which he has out of 400000 Villages, which the Archbishop of St. Stephen's affirm'd to me to be under his Jurisdiction.
As I return'd from Persia in the Year 1655, I came to the Three Churches about the end of February; the Caravan stay'd there eleven Days, as well by reason of the great Snows that stop'd up the Ways, as for that the Armenians resolv'd to keep their Carnival there, and after that to perform their Devotions. The next day I went to visit the Patriarch, who was sitting cross-leg'd upon a Mat. There were four Archbishops, and nine Bishops sitting about him in the same posture, among whom there was one that spake very good Italian. I stay'd with him three Hours; and while we were discoursing together, in came one of the Monks of the Covent, who had not spoken to any person whatsoever in Two and twenty Years, by reason of a Penance that was impos'd upon him. Never did Man appear so meager and deformed; but the Patriarch sent for him, and by his Authority commanded him to break Silence, which he did, by speaking at the same Instant.
The Saturday before Shrove-Sunday the Patriarch invited all the Caravan, as well Masters as Servants, to hear Mass the next day, and then to dine at the Covent. Mass being concluded, the People were brought into a long Gallery, about 15 or 20 Foot broad, there being a Table on both sides, made of several Stones, and Benches next the Walls. At the upper end of the Gallery stands a Table four Foot square, over which is a vaulted Roof sustain'd with four Pillars, which serves ​for a Canopy: in the midst whereof is a Chair set for the Patriarch, who from thence has a full view of both sides the Gallery; with two other Chairs of each hand, for two Archbishops: the other Archbishops, Monks, and Guests sate at the long Tables. The Meat which they brought us was several sorts of Pilaw, and several Dishes of Fish, among the rest excellent Trouts. The Pilaw was brought in forty wide Plates, so well fill'd and so large, that they were every one as much as a Man could carry. They were all set down upon the Ground before the Patriarch; who then Pray'd and gave Thanks. Then six Bishops with Ladles took out the Meat out of the great Platters, and putting it into lesser, serv'd both the Tables. Every one had also his earthen Pot of Wine, which was very good, and was fill'd again when it was empty. The Patriarch and the two Archbishops eat nothing but two Eggs, and a few raw Herbs; no more did the other Archbishops that sate at the Table.
At the end of the Feast, a Bishop comes with a Paper and Pen and Ink in his Hand, and asks of every one what he pleases to Subscribe for the Benefit of the Church; then every one proposing, according to his Devotion, the Bishop writes down the Names of the Persons, and the Sum which they mention which he comes and gathers the next day. There are some rich Merchants that will give two Tomans, but the meanest Servant will give an Or. The Bishop having done writing, the Table was clear'd, and then they brought us Melons and other Fruits. In a short while after the Bells rung to Evening Service, and the People went to Church.
After Evening Service the Patriarch sent for me to behold a Combat of Bufalo's, of which there are great store in that Country, some serving to Till their Ground; while the Female ones yield store of Milk, of which they make Butter and Cheese, and which they mingle with all sorts of other Milk: There are some of these female Beasts that will give two and twenty Pints of Milk a day.
They brought us into a wide Enclosure, to behold the Sport, wherein there were eight Bufalo's. To provoke them one against another, they shew them a Red Cloth, which puts them into such a Rage, that there were two that dy'd with the stroke of their Horns upon the place, and there were none of the rest which were not very much lam'd. The Sport being at an end, they bring a great quantity of Wood, which they pile together on purpose to set it on Fire. When the Wood was heap'd in as big a Pile as they intended, one of the Archbishops presented a Taper of white Wax to all the Company, both Masters and Servants, who every one agreed with him what they should give the next day for their Tapers. The Tapers being lighted, the Patriarch with a Stick like a Bishop's Crosier, march'd before, singing an Hymn, attended by all the Persons both Ecclesiastical and Secular, till they had in that manner walk'd three times about the Pile. When the Pile came to be lighted, there was great striving who should have the Honour. One of the Merchants offer'd a quantity of Oyl, for Lamps for the Church; another outdid him, and a third proffer'd more than he; and the Honour of Lighting the Pile was given to him that offer'd most. Immediately upon that every one put out his Taper: For they esteem it a most precious business; believing that the lighting of one of those Tapers in a Storm, and throwing it into the Sea, is a present Charm against Shipwrack. For say they, The Virgin Mary, forty days after she was brought to Bed, went to Jerusalem with Joseph and her Son; and going into the Temple met old Simeon, who taking the Child in his Arms, began to sing the Song, Lord now let thy Servant, &c. the Song being ended, all the People began to cry that Christ was born, and to publish it about the City. Now in regard it was Night, every one ran out with Torches in their Hands, and some made Fires before their Doors, where Christ was to pass along. This Festival among the Armenians is like that of Candlemas-day; and they call it in their Language, Ter en Areche? Where is the Lord? The Armenians, Masters and Servants, drank all Night to make an end of their Carnival, while the Patriarch was busie in dressing up the Church with its gayest Ornaments.
I could not believe there had been so much Riches in the Christian Churches under the Power of the Mahumetans. It is not a hundred Years since this Patriarchal Church was in a much meaner Condition: But since the great Sha-Abas put the Armenians upon Traffick, they have very much enrich'd themselves: For as they got great Gains; so they made great Vows, and gave largely to the Church: ​ ​wherein there are now as rich Ornaments as in any Church of Christendom. The Choir of the Church was hung round with a Venetian Tissue of Gold. The Pavement also of the Choir and the Body of the Church, together with the Steps to the Altar, were spread with rich Tapestry. For they all put off their Shooes before they go into the Church nor do the Armenians kneel as in Europe, but stand all the while upright. When they hear Mass, they sit after the Mode of the Country, but when the Lessons are reading they stand up. All the Service-time their Heads are cover'd, unless at the Elevation of the Host, for then they take off their Bonnets, and kiss the Earth three times. There was upon the Altar a Cross, with six Candlesticks of Gold; and upon the Steps to the Altar four Candlesticks of Silver five Foot high. After they had sung several Hymns, the Patriarch seated himself in a Chair cover'd with Silk Tapestry, four Archbishops sitting with their Backs to a Pillar at his right hand. The Service was solemnly perform'd by an Archbishop, with two Bishops on each side of him. After the Archbishop had made certain Prayers, he took the Book wherein he had read the Gospel and gave it the Patriarch, the Archbishops, Bishops, and all the People to Kiss. On the one side of the Cover of that Book there are two Relicks enchas'd, which are cover'd with Crystal, which was the side of the Book that was given to be Kiss'd. The Ceremony being ended, many went to Kiss the Patriarch's Hand, and so retir'd.
Ten Leagues from Erivan, toward the North, appears a great Lake, wherein there is an Iland, upon which is built a very fair Covent. The Monks that live there, live so austere a Life, that they never eat Fish or Flesh above four times a Year: neither do they speak one to another, but upon those four Days. The rest of the Year they feed only upon Herbs, which they gather out of the Garden: for say they, it is not Fasting, to eat either Butter or Oyl. The Bread which they eat is brought from the neighbouring Villages: and the Iland is replenish'd with all sorts of excellent Fruits.
On the one side of the Lake nearer to Erivan is a large Plain, wherein there are six Monasteries. One of which is entirely hewn out of the Rock, with the Pillars that sustain it, being seated in a very hard Rock. The Armenians call that Church Kickart in their Language, and the Turks in theirs Guieurghieche, that is, See and away. In this Church, according to the Traditions of the Armenians, is kept the Lance wherewith the Side of Christ was pierc'd; the Figure whereof I caus'd to be drawn upon the Place. The Armenians have this Lance in great Veneration, saying, that it was brought thither by St. Matthew.
Five Leagues from Erivan, towards the South-East begins the Mountain Ararat; which will be always famous for being the resting-place of Noah's Ark. Half a League from that Mountain, where the Plain begins to grow level, stands a Church upon a little Hillock, close by which are several Pits like Wells. They report that it was into one of these Wells that Cerda, an Armenian King, caus'd St. Gregory to be thrown, because he would not Worship his false Gods. Between this Church and Erivan are to be seen the Ruines of the Ancient Artaxate, the Seat of the Kings of Armenia, which demonstrate that it has been a great City: besides, there appear the Ruines of a fair Palace.
Erivan lyes in 64 Degrees, 20 Minutes of Longitude; 41 Degrees, 15 Minutes of Latitude in a most plentiful Country of all things necessary for Humane Life, but especially abounding in good Wine. It is one of the best Provinces of all Persia, and yields the King a very large Revenue, as well by reason of the goodness of the Soil, as for being the great Thoroughfare of the Caravans. The yearly Revenue of the Governour only, otherwise call'd the Kan of Erivan, amounts to above 20000 Tomans, which make 840000 Livres. This City lying upon the Frontiers of both Empires, has been taken and retaken by the Turks and Persians, several times. By which means the old City being ruin'd, they have built a new one, 800 Paces on this side, upon a Rock, at the foot whereof, upon the West-side runs a rapid Stream: it is call'd by the Name of Sangui-Cija, and in many places it is deep and full of Rocks. You cross it, over a fair Bridge of three Arches, in which are built little Chambers, where the Kan retires in the heat of the day. It is full of Fish, especially Trouts, which nevertheless are dear enough. This River comes from a Lake called Gigaguni, about 25 Leagues from Erivan, toward the ​North, and falls into the Aras, that runs not above three Leagues off to the South. Though this City be fortified to the West by the River, yet it is never the stronger, by reason of the Hills on the other side which command it: and in regard it is built upon a Rock, the Moats of the Fort are not above three or four Foot deep. In some places the City is secur'd with a double Wall with several Towers; but the Walls being only of Earth, as are most of the Houses, the Rain does more mischief, than the Cannon would do. That part of Erivan to the North-West, is a kind of Suburb, but far better inhabited than the City: for there live all the Merchants and Artificers, together with the Christian Armenians, who have four Churches there, with a Monastery. And of late years they have built also a very fair Inn in the same Quarter. In the City there only lives the Kan, with the Military Officers and Souldiers; the Kan's Lodgings lying upon the River. The Governour is a Person of great Power, and has always sufficient Forces about him to guard the Frontiers. The Summer being very hot at Erivan, he lyes in Tents upon the Mountains during the Heat. When a Caravan arrives, he is forc'd to give the King advice thereof: and if any Ambassador come thither, he is bound to maintain him at his own Expence, and to cause him to be conducted to the Territories of the next Governour, who is oblig'd to do the same. So that Ambassadors are not bound to be at any Expences in the Territories of the King of Persia. Four Leagues from the City are high Mountains, where the Natives that inhabit the hot and Sun-burnt Countries toward Chaldea, come twenty thousand together, to seek out good Pasturage for their Cartel, and about the end of Autumn return again into their own Country. I cannot compare this Mountainous Tract, whether for its Valleys and Rivers, or for the nature of the Soil, to any Part that I have seen, better than to that portion of Switzerland, which is call'd the Country of Vaux: and there is a Tradition among the Natives, That certain People that inhabited between the Alpes and Mount Jura, and which compos'd a Squadron of Alexander's Army, having serv'd him in his Conquests, seated themselves in this part of Armenia, which they found so like their own Country. From Tocat to Tauris the Inhabitants are for the most part Christians. Which large Tract of Ground being that which the Ancients call'd the Province of Armenia, 'tis no wonder to meet with fifty Armenians for one Mahometan. There are many ancient Armenian Families in Erivan, which is their native Country; but they are ill us'd by the Governours, who being far distant from the Court, do what they please. This City not being far remote from the Province from whence the Silks come, is the place where all the Buyers and Sellers resort. But neither in Erivan, nor in any other part of Persia are the Merchants put to open their Bales at the Custom-Houses, as in Turkie. They only pay certain Duties toward securing the Highways, which Duties they call Raderies, and those that gather them Raders.
The Kans or Governours of Provinces in Persia are civil to Strangers, especially to those that they like, or that shew them any thing of Curiosity. The first time that I went into Persia, I took a young Watch-maker with me, and coming to Erivan, I carried him to the Kan who was then Governour. It was at a time when Watches were very rare in Persia; and the Kan, understanding what Trade the Young Man was of, told us he was the first Watch-maker that ever had been in Persia: Thereupon he brought the Young Man a Watch to mend, and that he might have the pleasure of seeing him work, he lodg'd us in a Chamber next his own, and made us drink with him every day, for he was a true Toper, and compell'd us to drink with him from four in the Afternoon 'till near Midnight, in a place which he had made on purpose, in his Garden, to take off his Glasses.
This was he, that having deliver'd Erivan to Sultan Amurat, went along with him to Constantinople, and became his Favourite for teaching him to Drink. Amurat left a Garrison of 22000 Men in the City; but Sha-Sefi the Persian King begirt it presently with a strong Army; and planting himself securely under one of the Hills that command the City, he batter'd it incessantly with eight Pieces of Cannon: the fourth day he made a Breach, and though he had the repute of a Coward, he was the first at the Assault, and took the City: and because they would not yield at his Summons, he put all the Garrison to the Sword. For which Amurat, was quit with Sha-Sefi afterwards, though not in so noble a way; for entring a Victor into Bagdat, he put all the Persians to the Sword, after he had given them his Word to the contrary, and promis'd to spare their Lives.
The Platform of Erivan and the Suburbs.
* A.The Town and Fort.
* B.The Suburbs, inhabited by the Armenian Christians.
* C.The Church.
* D.The Convent.
* E.The River of Sangui-cija.
* F.The Stone-Bridge.
* G.The Highway for the Caravans.
* H.The Fort which Sha-Sefi built to batter the City.
* I.The River that falls from the Mountain.
* K.The Highway to Tauris.
* L.The Way to Teflis the chief City of Georgia; and the Way to the Mountain where the Kan of Erivan goes twice a Summer to drink.
* M.The Market-Places, for Sale of Goods.