# The Life and Voyages of Captain James Cook/Chapter 3

Modern voyages of discovery, for scientific objects.—Voyage to the South Sea, for observing the transit of Venus, projected. Cook appointed to conduct it, with the rank of Lieutenant. Equipment of his ship, the Endeavour. His Officers and assistants. Mr. Ranks, Dr. Solander, with other scientific gentlemen, accompany him. Arrival at Madeira, with some notice of the inhabitants. Arrival at Rio Janeiro: illiberal conduct of the Viceroy of Brazil. Arrival at Strait Le Maire. Perilous excursion in Terra del Fuego : some account of the natives. Notices respecting the Strait of Le Maire, and that of Magellan. Passage round Cape Horn, and into the Pacific. Discovery of several small islands. Arrival at Otaheite.
The deliberations of the Royal Society in 1767 and the beginning of 1768, seconded by the liberality of the government, produced a result highly interesting to our navigator, opening to his enterprising genius a new and extensive sphere where he was destined to shine. At this period, and for some years before, the British government had the honour of instituting voyages of discovery very different from those of the early navigators. Expeditions of this kind were formerly set on foot for the purpose of conquest, the acquisition of territory and of wealth. But now commenced a new era in the annals of navigation, when voyages of discovery were undertaken for the interests of science; for acquiring a knowledge of the different seas, continents, and islands, on the face of our globe; and for ameliorating the condition of the savage tribes that might be discovered.
​On a voyage of this description. Commodore Byron, in the Dolphin, accompanied by Captain Mouatt in the Tamer, sailed in 1764, the year after the general peace; and having circumnavigated the globe, and made several interesting discoveries, he returned in May, 1766. About three months after his return, Capt. Wallis, in the Dolphin, 'and Capt. Carteret, in the Swallow, were also sent out to make discoveries in the southern hemisphere. Previous to their return, another voyage to the same quarter was proposed and resolved on, the chief object of which was purely scientific. It had been calculated, that a remarkable transit of Venus over the sun's disc would take place in June, 1769, which would be observed with most advantage in one of the South Sea islands; and as an accurate observation of the transit, and a comparison of observations made in different quarters of the world, appeared to be of essential benefit to the science of astronomy, the Royal Society presented a memorial on the subject to the King; who immediately gave orders to the Admiralty, to provide and fit out a vessel, for conveying some gentlemen skilled in astronomy to one of the islands in the southern Pacific, with a view to accomplish the object proposed. This scientific expedition, according to the plan of the Royal Society, was to have been conducted by one of their number, Alexander Dalrymple, Esq., who was eminently fit for the undertaking. But this gentleman would not consent to proceed on the voyage, unless he was appointed to the command of the vessel, with a brevet commission as Captain; as was done in the case of Dr. Halley, in 1698. To this proposal. Sir Edward Hawke, first Lord of ​the Admiralty, decidedly objected; declaring that he would not entrust the command of the vessel to one who had not been regularly bred to the sea, and that he would rather suffer his right hand to be cut off than sign such a commission. Mr. Dalrymple being equally inflexible, it became necessary to select another commander; and Mr. Stephens, Secretary to the Admiralty, recommended Mr. Cook, as an Officer peculiarly qualified for such a service; and, to assure the board of the correctness of his opinion, referred them to Sir Hugh Palliser, by whom Cook's merits had long been known and appreciated. Sir Hugh warmly seconded this recommendation, being glad to have such an opportunity of serving his friend. Mr. Cook was accordingly appointed to command the expedition, and with this view was promoted to the rank of Lieutenant, his commission being dated May 25th, 1768.
An appointment so congenial to his inclinations, could not fail to be highly gratifying to our navigator; who was further indulged in being permitted, with Sir Hugh Palliser, to select the vessel which he should command, out of many that were then lying in London river. His choice fell, as might be expected, on a Whitby vessel, the Earl Pembroke, of 370 tons, built by the grandfather of the present Thos. Fishbum, Esq., of Whitby, and then belonging to Mr. Thos. Milner of that place. This ship was accordingly purchased, and having received a new name. The Endeavour, was taken to Deptford to be fitted out for the voyage; was manned with a complement of 84 seamen and marines, armed with ten carriage and twelve swivel guns, and furnished with all necessary stores.
​While the Endeavour was fitting out in the river, an incident occurred which deserves to be recorded. A small Stockton trader going up the river, laden with goods, accidentally ran athwart the bow of the Endeavour, and occasioned some damage. The master of the trader was immediately ordered on board the Endeavour, and the Lieutenant began to reprimand him for his negligence. The master replied, that he hoped he would deal kindly with an old acquaintance; at the same time making himself known to him as one who had been his school-fellow at Ayton. This mutual recognition recalled to the minds of both, the juvenile adventures and enjoyments in which they had shared. Looking back with pleasure on the scenes of early life. Cook not only forgave the companion of his youth, but treated him with wine and other refreshments, and dismissed him with additional tokens of affection and esteem.
The officers appointed to serve under Lieutenant Cook, appear to have been well chosen for assisting him in his important enterprise. Mr. Hicks, his first Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, his second Lieutenant; Mr. Monkhouse, the Surgeon; Messrs. Saunders, Monkhouse, &c., Midshipmen; Mr. Mollineux, the Master; with the rest of the officers; were, generally speaking, lovers of science, feeling a particular interest in the objects of the voyage. To these officers was added Mr. Charles Green, an eminent astronomer, who had long assisted Dr. Bradley in the royal observatory at Greenwich. He was appointed to aid Lieut. Cook in observing the transit of Venus, and in prosecuting other objects connected with astronomy : for which purposes, they were furnished with the most complete apparatus, and receiv​ed ample instructions from the Council of the Royal Society, on the best method of conducting their inquiries. Capt. Wallis having returned from his voyage round the world, a little before the Endeavour sailed, at his suggestion, the island of Otaheite, which he had discovered and named George Island, was fixed on as the best spot for observing the transit of Venus.
But there were other scientific gentlemen, whose presence and services our navigator enjoyed. He was accompanied by Joseph Banks, Esq., afterwards Sir Joseph Banks, Bart.; who with laudable zeal devoted his time, talents, and property, to the pursuits of science, especially in the department of natural history. This gentleman, who possessed a considerable estate in Lincolnshire, had, after leaving the university of Oxford, crossed the Atlantic in 1763, to study nature on the coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador; and the perils of t hat voyage having no way damped his enthusiasm in the prosecution of his favourite studies, he deemed it a privilege to accompany Mr. Cook in this honourable expedition. Mr. Banks, at his own expense, engaged some other men of science, to participate in the labours and pleasures of the voyage. Of these the most distinguished was Dr. Solander, a Swedish gentleman, an eminent naturalist, who had been a pupil of the great Linnæus, and now had an appointment in the British Museum. Two artists were engaged, Mr. Buchan, and Mr. Parkinson; the former a good landscape painter, the latter skilful in the department of natural history. Mr. Banks was also attended by Mr. Sporing, his secretary; and by four servants, two of whom were men of colour.
Thus, the number of persons on board the ​Endeavour amounted to nearly one hundred; and among these there was more of talent and science than had ever embarked before in any one vessel. No wonder that the expedition excited a great interest in the republic of letters, not only in Britain, but in other kingdoms of Europe.
Every thing being ready for the voyage, the Endeavour sailed down the river on Saturday, July 30th, and on that day fortnight anchored in Plymouth Sound; and having waited there for a fair wind, finally quitted the British shores, on friday, August 26th. On the passage to Madeira, some hard gales were experienced, which occasioned the loss of a small boat and a quantity of poultry; and in Funchiale roads, where the ship was anchored on tuesday, September 13th, Mr. Weir, the Master's Mate, was carried overboard with the anchor, and drowned. At Madeira, where they remained a week, to take in refreshments, Lieut. Cook and his officers, with the scientific gentlemen, were treated with much kindness and respect, by Mr. Cheap, the English consul. Dr. Thos. Heberden, the principal physician of the island; and by the inhabitants generally. Even the Franciscan friars, and the nuns of Santa Clara, gave them a friendly reception. The latter, underetanding that they were visited by a company of philosophers, took the opportunity of putting their philosophy to the test, according to their own views of it, by asking them, among other things, when it would thunder; and, whether a spring of fresh water could be found within the walls of their convent! Our philosophers, however, employed themselves here in more appropriate researches; in examining the natural productions of the island, and making observations ​on the manners and customs of the inhabitants. They had an opportunity of noticing in particular, with regard to the mode of preparing the celebrated Madeira wine, how pertinaciously men will adhere to the customs of their fathers, rejecting those modern improvements by which an immense saving of labour and expense may be attained. Their wine-press and other apparatus seemed as rude and simple, as what might have been used in the days of Noah.
The next place at which Mr. Cook touched for refreshments was Rio de Janeiro, where he arrived on Sunday, Nov. 13th. On the voyage thither, as well as during the run from Plymouth to Madeira, our philosophers employed themselves in examining those curious phenomena, and those objects in natural history, which came in their way. They found some new species of birds, and some new genera of small marine animals; and ascertained, that the luminous appearance often presented by the sea, is to be ascribed to the presence of myriads of small animals, each emitting a white light. Among these luminous creatures, Mr. Banks observed a new species of medusa, and three new species of small crabs.—The love of science, which is valuable to all, is of immense worth to those who go to sea. Observations of nature will beguile the tedium of the longest voyage, and make the time which would otherwise hang heavy, pass smoothly and profitably on.
The liberal treatment which Lieut. Cook and his companions experienced at Madeira, had led them to expect a similar reception at Rio Janeiro; out in such anticipations they were woefully disappointed. A great part of the time spent here was occupied in altercations with the Viceroy, a ​very unworthy representative of the King of Portugal. Tyrannical, rude, and ignorant in the extreme, he could not comprehend what was meant by a scientific expedition; and of the transit of Venus over the sun's disc, he could form no other conception, than that it was "the passing of the north star through the south pole!" To such a person, a ship manned with philosophers was an object of terror and suspicion. In his view, the noblest science consisted in knowing the value of a diamond, a topaz, or an amethyst; and the best philosophy in procuring the greatest quantity of gold and gems. He watched the mines of Brazil with jealous care, and guarded them with sanguinary laws; laws corresponding with the cruel expense at which they were wrought, an expense of more than 40,000 lives per annum; an annual importation of negroes to that amount, being required to supply the horrid waste of human life in working the mines.
To the scientific gentlemen it was a severe mortification, to be prohibited from following their favourite pursuits, in a country where every field was decked like a garden with the riches of Flora; and where myriads of the most beautiful winged insects perched on the flowers, or fluttered in the gale; but the Viceroy sternly refused them permission even to land. To an understanding of his calibre, it seemed incredible, that men of their rank should wish to tread his shores, for the purpose of collecting lilies and heaths, or of hunting for beetles and butterflies. Their views, he presumed, were directed to other treasures than those presented by nature in every field. During their stay here, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander got on shore only ​once or twice by stealth; a guard-boat being stationed to prevent them from passing. Even the Commander could not land, without a Brazilian officer to attend him every where as a spy; nor return on board, without an officer intruding into his boat. To these and other vexatious restrictions, our navigators were forced to submit. Indeed, when, in one instance, an attempt was made to break through the Viceroy's regulations, the pinnace and her crew were detained by his orders, for two or three days. On this occasion, as on others of a like kind, Cook's behaviour was at once dignified and prudent. He sent the Viceroy a spirited remonstrance: he also wrote to the Admiralty a full account of this unfriendly treatment, with a copy of his correspondence with the Viceroy; which he had an opportunity of forwarding by a Spanish packet from Buenos Ayres, the Commander of which politely offered to convey letters to Europe.
On monday, Dec. 5th, having taken in such refreshments as were judged necessary, the Endeavour weighed anchor, and began to leave this inhospitable shore. The Viceroy had sent the Lieutenant a polite letter, wishing him a good voyage; yet, as if resolved to continue his incivility to the last, he omitted sending orders to the fort of Santa Cruz to allow the vessel to pass, so that on coming abreast of the fort, she was fired at, and was detained there two days till the necessary order arrived. At last our navigators got clear of the harbour, and of their guard-boat; after which, Mr. Bank, got ashore on some small islands, where he procured many species of plants and insects.
From Rio Janeiro, Lieut. Cook directed his ​course for the Strait of Le Maire; and, in running along the coast of South America, the vessel, in some places, passed through myriads of land insects, some on the wing and others on the water, although the distance from the land could not then be less than thirty leagues. While the Endeavour was rapidly advancing into a high southern latitude, it was necessary to prepare for the cold and the storms of the antarctic regions; the ship was furnished with a new suit of sails, and the men were supplied with fearnought jackets and warm trowsers. On the 11th of January, 1769, our navigators discovered the coast of Terra del Fuego; and on the 14th, they entered the Strait of Le Maire. The current of the tide being against the Endeavour, in entering the Strait, she had a heavy sea to encounter off Cape St. Diego; but sustained no damage. Lieut. Cook anchored at two or three places in the Strait; and at one of them, the bay of Good Success, remained a whole week, taking in wood and water. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander landed on different parts of the coast, to collect new species of plants and animals; a pursuit in which they were eminently successful. One of their excursions from the bay of Good Success, in search of alpine plants upon the hills, proved fatal to two of their attendants, and brought the whole party into imminent danger. They were accompanied by the astronomer and the surgeon, the two artists, and four servants, together with two seamen; their number being thus twelve in all. Climbing the neighbouring hill, and forcing their way through pathless woods, for several hours, they found on the other side a swamp covered with low bushes, where they expected a plain. The way ​through this to a rocky hill proved longer than they had supposed, and was excessively fatiguing. To aggravate their sufferings, the day which had been fair and pleasant, became dark and chilly, with piercing winds and keen blasts of snow. When they had got about two thirds over the woody swamp, Mr. Buchan was seized with a fit, and could proceed no further. A fire was, therefore, kindled on the spot, and those who were most fatigued were left with him, while the rest pushed forward to the summit of the rock. Here the botanists obtained a rich variety of alpine plants; but they soon found that this treasure was dearly purchased. The cold became more intense, the snow showers more frequent; and the day being far spent, for it was three o'clock when they entered the swamp, it was found impossible to return to the ship that evening, so that they had now the cheerless prospect of spending the night among the bleak and desert mountains, amidst all the rigours of winter, although it was now the midsummer of that dreary region. Sending for Mr. Buchan and those that were left with him, they proceeded in a direction that seemed more favourable for crossing the swamp, and for reaching the wood and the shore. About eight o'clock in the evening, while it was yet good day light, they all met on a hill, Mr. Buchan being now greatly recovered; and from thence they set forward through the swamp for the nearest valley, to seek a place of shelter for the night; Mr. Banks bringing up the rear, to see that no straggler was left behind. Dr. Solander had warned all the party against the danger of being overcome with torpor, when travelling through snow amidst intense cold; repeating ​those words, "Whoever sits down will sleep; and whoever sleeps will wake no more." Yet they had not gone far, when the Doctor himself proved the first that felt an irresistible inclination to lie down; and Richmond, one of the black servants, was seized with the same drowsiness. Mr. Banks sent forward five of the company, to get ready a fire in the first convenient place they could find; while he and four others remained with the Doctor and Richmond, whom they contrived to drag on with them till they were nearly through the swamp, when they both insisted on lying down, declaring that they could go no further. As it was found impossible to carry them, they both sat down among the bushes, and instantly fell asleep. In a few minutes, however, some of the vanguard returned with the welcome news, that a fire was kindled in the wood, about a quarter of a mile further. Dr. Solander was awaked from his slumber, much benumbed; and consented to go forward: but all attempts to rouse poor Richmond were fruitless; and he was left behind, under the care of the other black servant and a seaman. The Doctor was with difficulty brought to the fire; and after the party were a little refreshed, two were sent back to assist in bringing Richmond forward also. In half an hour they returned, stating that they found no person on the spot, and that no one answered to their repeated shouts. It was now discovered, that one of the absentees had a bottle of rum, the company's whole stock; and it was concluded, that the party having awakened Richmond, and partaken too freely of the rum, had lost their way, in attempting to reach the fire themselves, instead of waiting for the assistance ​promised them. As it snowed incessantly for two hours after, all hopes of seeing them alive were given up; but, about midnight, to the great joy of the party, a shouting was heard at some distance from the fire. Mr. Banks and four others proceeded in the direction of the sound, and found the seaman almost exhausted. He was speedily brought to the fire, and by his direction the other two were found soon after. Richmond was still on his legs, but unable to walk; his companion lay senseless on the ground. All hands were called from the fire, and a simultaneous effort was made to carry them thither; but the task was found altogether hopeless, owing to the difficulties of the way, the darkness of the night, and the exhausted state of the party. An attempt to kindle a fire on the spot proved equally abortive, owing to the quantity of snow that had fallen, and was still falling. Mr. Banks and the party, after placing them under the shelter of some boughs of trees, were forced to leave them for the night; some more of their number, particularly Briscoe, another of Mr. Banks's servants, now beginning to be attacked with torpor. With much difficulty they regained the fire, from which they had been absent an hour and a half. The rest of the night was spent in misery and terror, in gloomy reflections on the fate of their companions, and dreadful anxiety respecting their own. The dawn of morning brought small relief; nothing but snow appeared on every side, and the snow blasts had scarcely abated in their frequency or their fury. About six, the clouds became less dense, and the place of the sun could be discerned through them. Three of the company were despatched as soon as possible, to look after the poor wretches who were ​left among the bushes; and quickly returned with the melancholy, but not unexpected news, that they were dead. The snow showers still continuing to fall, it was not till after eight o'clock, when indications of a thaw appeared, that the party could hope to prosecute their journey with success; especially as two of them, Briscoe and Mr. Buchan, although able to walk, were still invalids. Before setting out, they shared the only article of food which they possessed,—a vulture, which they had providentially shot during their excursion, and which, being divided into ten portions, according to their number, furnished about three mouthfuls to each. Having finished this repast, they set out about ten o'clock, much of the snow being then melted; and after a walk of about three hours, they were agreeably surprised to find themselves on the beach, and at no great distance from the ship; their route this day being direct, whereas on the former it had been very circuitous. Their safe return on board was matter of great joy and congratulation to Lieut. Cook and their friends, as well as to themselves, much anxiety having been felt on their account, when they did not arrive the preceding evening.
In some of their excursions, our naturalists met with the rude inhabitants of the country, with whom they were on friendly terms. These people appeared to hold the lowest place in the scale of civilization; being inferior in some respects even to the Caffres of South Africa : whom they resembled, in having conical or bee-hive huts, rudely constructed with poles, partially covered with grass and branches; in having no other garment but the hide of a beast, thrown over their shoulders ​in bedaubing their bodies with paint; and in wearing bracelets of beads, shells, or bits of bone. They had no furniture, not even an implement to dress their food. Yet their bows and arrows were neatly formed, and the latter had barbed heads of glass or flint. They seemed to be a dull uninteresting race, possessing a very small share of curiosity or penetration. The most remarkable custom observed among them was, that when they were introduced to any new place, or new object, one of their number shouted with all his might for some minutes.
On reviewing this description of man in his savage state, it is not unprofitable to recollect, that such were once the inhabitants of our own enlightened country. The ancient Britons were little, if any thing, superior to the present natives of Terra del Fuego. Foundations of their conical huts, occasionally placed in rows like streets, have been found in considerable quantity on the Eastern Moors of Yorkshire, not far from the birthplace of our great navigator; and in the centre of each foundation, forming a hollow in the ground, remainders of the fires of the British savages may be dug up. Their beads, and flint arrow-heads neatly barbed, are often found in the fields; and it is well known, that they also painted their bodies, and wore rude dresses of skin. The time may arrive, when the wretched inhabitants of Terra del Fuego shall be as enlightened as those of the British isles.
While the naturalists were pursuing their favourite studies, the Commander was chiefly employed in taking soundings, bearings, and observations, ​to ascertain every thing connected with the safe navigation of this important strait. His observations, in some of which he was assisted by Mr. Green, were continued all along the shore, from the entrance of the strait as far as Cape Horn; and the result was given in a chart of the coast, much more correct than any before published. As this chart was constructed for the benefit of future navigators, so for their guidance, Mr. Cook gives excellent instructions for passing the strait of Le Maire, and doubling Cape Horn. In this voyage too, he performed the important service of ascertaining, that the passage into the Pacific by this channel, is much more safe and expeditious than that by the strait of Magellan. His voyage from opposite the eastern entrance of that strait round Cape Horn, and northward beyond its western termination, occupied only thirty-three days; whereas Capt. Wallis, in the Dolphin, was three months in passing through the strait, and encountered no small danger in the passage, as most navigators had done before him.
The strait of Magellan, or Magalhaens, was discovered in 1520, by the famous navigator of that name, a native of Portugal in the service of Spain; who first crossed the Pacific ocean, discovering in his passage the Ladrone and the Philippine islands; and whose ship, the Victory, first circumnavigated the globe. The strait of Le Maire was discovered in January, 1616, by the Dutch navigator James Le Maire, and his comrade William Schouter; and they passed through the strait, under circumstances nearly corresponding with those which Cook considered as essential to a safe navigation. The island on the left they named Staten Land, in ​honour of the "High and Mighty States;" Port Maurice, on the right, one of the spots where Cook also anchored, was so called from Maurice of Nassau; Barnevelt's Isles, beyond the strait, had their name from a Dutch gentleman of rank; and Cape Horn was so called, in honour of the town of Horn, the native place of Schouter. In passing the strait, they encountered immense numbers of penguins and whales. In their progress to India, they fell in with some of the South Sea islands, and remarked the eagerness of the natives to obtain nails.
Lieutenant Cook sailed from the Bay of Good Success, January 22nd, and on the 26th, took his departure from Cape Horn, steering into the Pacific Ocean for Otaheite. On Wednesday, March 1st, after a run of 660 leagues, it was found that the ship's latitude and longitude were the same by observation as by the log; a proof of the accuracy with which the navigation was conducted, and of the absence of all remarkable currents. On the 25th, a valuable young man, one of the marines, was lost under circumstances truly lamentable. He had taken a small piece of seal skin, belonging to a servant of the Commander; this trivial theft, partly committed as a joke, was magnified by his comrades into a serious crime, and while he was threatened by the sergeant with exposure and punishment, his mind was so overpowered with the idea of suffering disgrace, that he walked overboard.
On tuesday, April 4th, our navigators saw, for the first time, one of the South Sea islands; and were delighted with the rich appearance of its groves of cocoa and palm trees, which, when contrasted with the dreary land of Terra del Fuego, ​seemed a terrestrial paradise. The island having a lagoon in the middle, was named Lagoon Island. Its natives were seen on the beach, armed with long spears. On the same day, another small island was passed, which received the name Thrumcap Island; and next day, a low island, which, from its remarkable form, was termed Bow Island. On thursday the 6th, two clusters of islets were passed, which were named the Groups. Some of the natives approached the ship in canoes, but durst not venture near enough to be taken on board. On friday, the 7th, another low island was discovered, abounding with birds, which was therefore designated Bird Island. Next day, another island was passed, or rather, a lagoon encircled by a chain of islets; for which reason was called Chain Island. On monday, April 10th, they passed the island of Maitea, which Wallis discovered, and named Osnaburgh Island. On the day following, they obtained a distant view of Otaheite; and on thursday, April 13th, they cast anchor in Matavai Bay; having been eight months and a half in making their passage from London.