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# Encyclopædia Britannica, Ninth Edition

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* Notes on reading the Wikisource edition.
* Collaboration page for contributors.
Table of contents
* Volumes:
* Volume I: A – Anatomy
* Volume II: Anaxagoras – Athenry
* Volume III: Athens – Boissonade
* Volume IV: Bokhara – Canoe
* Volume V: Canon – Cleves
* Volume VI: Clichy – Dayton
* Volume VII: Deacon – El Dorado
* Volume VIII: Eleanor – Fakir
* Volume IX: Falaba – Fyzabad
* Volume X: G – Götz
* Volume XI: Gouda – Hippopotamus
* Volume XII: Hiring – Indus
* Volume XIII: Infant – Kant
* Volume XIV: Kaolin – Lons-le-Saulnier
* Volume XV: Loo – Memphis
* Volume XVI: Mena – Mosul
* Volume XVII: Motanabbi – Ormuzd
* Volume XVIII: Orne – Phthisis
* Volume XIX: Phylactery – Provins
* Volume XX: Prudentius – Roswitha
* Volume XXI: Rothe – Siam
* Volume XXII: Sibbald – Szolnok
* Volume XXIII: T – Upsala
* Volume XXIV: Ural-Altaic – Zymotic
* Volume XXV: Index and List of Contributors
* Preface
* List of contributors
This work is in the public domain in the United States because it was published before January 1, 1929.
This work may be in the public domain in countries and areas with longer native copyright terms that apply the rule of the shorter term to foreign works.
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# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/The Reels and String Puzzle

Layout 2
​Of other cheaply made puzzles
The Reels and String Puzzle is highly entertaining. The only materials required for it are the lid of a cigar box, two ​cotton reels, two beads, and a length of smooth string or thin silk cord. The making is simplicity itself. All you need do is cut the lid in halves and bore three holes in a line in one of the halves. Of course you can ornament your wood as much as you like, but that will in no way increase or decrease the effectiveness of the puzzle.
When you have cut it out and finished it off nicely with glass-paper, thread the beads and reels as shown in Fig. 57.
Fig. 57.
Take special care that you do not make any mistake in the arrangement, or your solution will result in a hopeless tangle.
The object of the puzzle is to get the two cotton reels, which, as you see, are now on quite separate loops, on to one loop. To solve it proceed as follows: Take hold of the centre loop, and pull it down to its full extent. Now pass the right-hand reel through the loop. Taking care not to twist the cord, pass this loop through the hole on the right-hand side, over the bead, and then draw it back again.
Now if you follow the same procedure with the left-hand reel you will find that the centre loop is released and can be pulled through the centre hole. Then will the two reels slide down side by side.
# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/The Three-hole Puzzle

Layout 2
​One thoroughly entertaining and, to a certain extent, bewildering puzzle is
The Three-hole Puzzle.—Really the puzzle consists of a piece of thin wood with three holes cut in it. These three holes are respectively circular, square, and triangular (Fig. 58).
Fig. 58.
The problem is to cut one block of wood which will pass through each hole and at the same time fit the hole exactly.
Can it be done? At first it looks to be quite impossible; but there is a very neat solution to the difficulty.
Fig. 59.
First cut out your holes. To do this get a cigar-box lid and draw out the three figures, taking care that the length of the side of the square and the length of the side of the triangle and the length of the diameter of the circle are equal. Now, using your fret saw, cut out these holes very neatly and precisely.
​For the block you need a small cylinder of wood an odd piece of broken broom handle will do admirably. This must be cut and finished with glass-paper so that it will fit the circular hole exactly. Now saw a piece just as long as the cylinder is wide. This looked at in one way gives an exact square which will fit the second hole. Thus two holes are catered for.
Finally, for the third hole the cylinder must be tapered on two sides. To do this draw a diameter at one end and then gradually pare away a flat surface till the triangular section is obtained.
Fig. 59 shows how the block, when turned in different ways, fits the three holes.
# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/A Model Signal

Layout 2
​Another toy which can be made quite easily from cigar-box wood is
Fig. 60.
Fig. 61.
A Model Signal.—First cut two strips of wood, half an inch wide and as long as you can get them, which will be 8 or 9 in. These will stand upright on a base board, and form the sides of the standard. Now between these two you must glue shorter pieces of half-inch strip, so as to make the standard solid at the top and bottom, and leave a hollow slot, 1 in. long, in which the signal arm will fit and work up and down (Fig. 60).
Now cut out and paint a signal arm, about 2½ in. long. Fix this by means of a pin passing through the two sides of the standard, and through the arm about ¾ in. from the square end. If it does not move easily in the slot, take off the top ​surface with glass-paper. Before fixing the signal arm in position, bore a small hole ¼ in. from the square end, and knot in a piece of twine or thin wire to act as a connection between the movable arm and the controlling lever (Fig. 61).
At the base of the standard fix the controlling lever. This consists of a small strip, with a pin passing through one end into the standard. Adjust the length of the twine or wire, so
Fig. 62.
that when the signal arm is down, the lever is horizontal; and when the lever is pressed down, the arm rises. You can make a little contrivance for fixing the lever by erecting a small post close to the standard, and gluing on two stops, under which to rest the free end of the lever in its two positions (Fig. 62).
If you prefer it, you can have the controlling lever at a distance from the signal post. You will then need a longer wire, and a little pulley wheel at the base of the standard. You must exercise your own ingenuity for this.
# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/Weather House

Layout 2
​Another interesting little scientific toy, which has the additional advantage of being useful, is the Weather House, or the Man and Woman Barometer. This consists of a little house with two doorways, at which appear two figures, one in fine weather, and the other in dull (Fig. 63).
Fig. 63.
With patience and care this is not very difficult to make. For the house itself you can use an old cigar box, or, if you prefer it, you can make the entire house in cardboard. This is, of course, easier, but not very durable. If you are going to use the cigar box, you will need first to cut the lid and bottom into something like the shape of a house end. You will then have to nail the lid down, and add two slanting pieces for the sides of the roof and that will complete the house.
​However, before you nail down the lid and put on the roof, you will need to understand the mechanism. First you will bore a round hole in the top of the roof, just behind the front gable. This hole is for a round peg to which the revolving base is attached.
The actual mechanism of the toy consists of a piece of catgut (an old violin string, or a tennis-racket string). This
Fig. 64.
passes through the centre of a small flat piece of wood on which the two figures are balanced. Just in front of the string a piece of wire (a bent hairpin will do admirably) is fixed, so as to form a loop through which the catgut can pass (see Fig. 64). The other end of the catgut is fixed to the peg which fits in the hole in the roof.
For the man and woman you can use two of the grotesque figures cut from clothes pegs. Screws passed through the re​volving base, will secure the figures firmly and at the same time add a little weight, and so improve the balance.
When there is moisture in the air the catgut will twist. You must fit together the different parts and then, by turning the peg to right or left, adjust the position of the figures so that the lady appears in fine weather and the gentleman in wet.
# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/The Marble Board

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Fig. 65.
A toy of unfailing attraction for boys and girls as well—is
The Marble Board.—This may be quite a simple affair—such as a boy can carry in his pocket for use in the playground—just a piece of wood, such as a cigar-box lid, with a number of holes cut along one edge, and a handle added (Fig. 65); or
Fig. 66.
it may be a much more elaborate form intended for use as a table game.
In this latter case there is a front board, similar to that in the simple form; but behind each hole there is a little compartment for the collection of the marbles (Fig. 66). To make this you need two pieces of wood, about 2 in. wide, and ​as long as the table is broad: any sort of wood will do. These are for the front and back of the contrivance. The front must next be marked out for the marble holes, allowing about 1 in. for the hole and 1 in. for the space between. Of course, the wider the spaces between the more difficult it becomes to score. These holes must then be cut out by means of a fret saw, or, if you do not possess one, by means of saw and chisel. The back and front must then be secured in position by means of end-pieces nailed or screwed on. These should be about 3 in. long.
The next piece of work is the adjustment of the partitions. For these cigar-box wood is best. You can either cut these partitions to the exact distance between the front and the back, and glue them into position; or else you can make them a little larger, and fit them into grooves cut into the front and back: but that is a nice little piece of carpentry for you.
When you have done this, all that is necessary is to give the whole thing a coat of paint, and place numbers over the various holes—taking care that you do not put all the high numbers together.
Boards similar to this are used in the Colonies for a game known as “Bobs.” Larger balls are used, and propelled by means of a cue as in billiards. If you can obtain the balls, this is a delightful game, and one well worth making.
# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/A Roundabout

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Fig. 70.
Another interesting contrivance to which the wind power can be harnessed is
A Roundabout.—This attractive little toy can be made quite readily from one or two reels, and four ordinary wooden skewers.
The first thing required is a base board, for which any tolerably smooth and heavy piece of wood will suffice. Now in the centre of this fix an upright piece of thick wire (a knitting needle will do); and glue on a cotton reel at the base of this.
In order to secure the absolutely smooth running of the roundabout it will be necessary to improvise some sort of “bearings.” For this there is nothing better than two hard glass beads. If one of these beads be sunk into the top of the ​reel just mentioned, and the other fixed in the bottom of another loose reel, the upper one will revolve freely on the lower (Fig. 70). This loose reel will be the driving wheel of the contrivance and will hold the power band from the wind wheel. Fixed to this running wheel, and immediately above, will be another reel for the actual merry-go-round. Into the sides of this uppermost reel bore four holes, and insert the pointed ends of the four skewers, arranging them so that all four are at right angles. The running will be facilitated if another glass bead is sunk in the top of this reel.
All that remains now to complete the roundabout is to fix four figures—horses, boats, or similar—at one end of each skewer. These figures can be drawn on cardboard and cut out; or they can be sawn from fretwood.
# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/Fairy Light Wheel

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​Another interesting variation of this toy is the
Fig. 71.
Fairy Light Wheel.—For this, instead of fixing figures at the ends of the skewers, obtain four egg shells, and suspend them by means of wires from the ends of the arms (Fig. 71). Now if little night-lights or odd ends of candle be placed in the egg shells and lighted, a very pretty effect is obtained when the whole is made to revolve.
# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/A Rotating Snake

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Fig. 78.
Another material from which some delightful toys can be contrived is “tin,” or, as it is more correctly called, “tinned iron.” This is the stuff cocoa tins and mustard tins and many other articles are made of. Perhaps the simplest toy we can commence with is
A Rotating Snake.—For this secure a clean flat piece of thin tin—the piece which the little patent cutter removes from the top of a round cigarette tin will do admirably—and, using a soft lead pencil, draw on it a spiral snake, such as is shown in Fig. 78. Now cut along the lines with a stout pair of scissors, or else with a sharp-pointed knife. Pull out the resultant spiral ​till it is stretched as in Fig. 79, and mount it by means of the tail on an upright piece of pointed stout wire. The serpent will rotate on this for a considerable time.
If you are good at bent-wire work, you will be able to make a wire stand by which to fix it on a lamp chimney
Fig. 79.
or gas globe: it will then revolve continuously, and with considerable speed.
# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/A Tin-can Steam Roller

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​A Tin-can Steam Roller.—This is a nice piece of metal work, and, when finished well, provides a proper little toy. To construct it you need several tins—a round tin, such as a cocoa tin, about 2 in. across and 4 in. long; an oblong tin, about 3½ in. by 3 in. by 2 in., such as the larger-sized mustard tins; a round cigarette tin, about 2½ in. across and 3¼ in. deep; two ​equal-sized tin lids from canisters, each about 4 in. across; and a cotton reel. These, the main items, when put together, yield a model similar to that shown in Fig. 80.
The fixing is quite a simple affair. With a pair of metal shears (or strong scissors) you cut away a portion of the top of the cocoa tin, so as to leave three tongues. Then on the side of the oblong mustard tin you mark three lines to correspond with the three tongues, and cut them through so as to
Fig. 80.
form three slots into which the tongues may fit. Now, if the tongues be bent outwards or inwards, then the two tins will hold firmly together, and give the boiler and cab of the machine (Fig. 81).
Before bending these, however, it is necessary to bore a hole in the under side of the boiler for the fixing of the front roller. This is attached to the boiler by means of a narrow strip of tin bent twice at right angles, and kept in place by means of a forked brass rivet or a strong brass paper fastener so that it will revolve freely. This narrow strip of tin just fits over the ​cigarette tin—a piece of knitting needle being used as axle, passing through holes bored in the centre of the bottom and lid of the tin, and through the ends of the slip.
For the larger rear wheels the lids of two canisters can be used, or, if something is required giving a more definite impression of solidity, two flat boot-polish tins can be substituted. Another piece of knitting needle passes through the centre of
Fig. 81.
Fig. 82.
these, and through holes in the sides of the cab, and so acts as axle. This is kept in place by means of dabs of sealing wax.
For the stack you can use a long thin cotton reel, or, better still, you can fix on another small tin by the method shown in Fig. 81.
The turning of the front wheel can be regulated by means of two strings passing from the two right-angle strips through a hole into the cab. If you can fix the strings to a piece of wood as shown in Fig. 82, you will be able to steer properly. A hole in the bottom of the cab, and a piece of wood stretched tightly ​across the top, should enable you to set up the steering apparatus.
# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/A Working Motor Boat

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​A Working Motor Boat.—To construct a motor boat that will travel a considerable distance is not really a difficult matter. All that is necessary is a piece of board for a hull, a wood or metal propeller, and a yard or two of strong elastic: these, carefully adjusted, will do all that is necessary.
For the hull, a piece of ⅝ in. or ¾ in. board, about 18 in. long will do. This can be cut to the boat shape by means of
Fig. 83.
a pocket knife or a spokeshave, and finished off with glass-paper. It should be sharp-pointed at the bows, about 3 in. to 4 in. at the centre, tapering down to a width of 2 in. at the stern. In the centre of the hull nail a block of wood, and to it glue two funnels (Fig. 83). For these, the odd lengths cut off from bamboo curtain poles will do admirably; or, if these be not obtainable, a couple of incandescent-mantle cases will suffice.
The adjustment of the motive power is the difficult task. First, you will need to purchase a couple of yards of suitable elastic: this is sold at most large toy shops, and costs usually a penny a yard. To fix this into place beneath the hull you will need to construct two metal supports. If you can get an old tin box made from metal sufficiently stout, that will do; ​if not, then you had better buy a piece of sheet brass, No. 20 gauge: 6 in. by 4 in. will be ample. Draw out these supports as
Fig. 84.
Fig. 85.
shown in Figs. 84 and 85, and bend them into shape as in Figs. 86 and 87—one for the bow and one for the stern. Screw on
Fig. 86.
Fig. 87.
the bow one about 1½ in. or 2 in. from the point, and the stern one in the middle of the end.
​Now into the bow support fix a loop of stout wire to hold the rubber strands, making it sufficiently large to rest against the sides and so prevent turning. At the stern support adjust the propeller bearings. On the care with which these are adjusted depends largely the success of the model. Take a piece of wire ($\scriptstyle {\frac {1}{16}}$-inch brass is best) and bend it as in Fig. 88. introducing a hard smooth glass bead. This “bead” runs more freely against the metal, and so facilitates the working. Now stretch the elastic between the two loops, arranging it so that there are six or eight strands. To work the model, turn the propeller round and round till the strands of elastic are very tightly twisted, place on the surface of the water, and then release the propeller. Fig. 83 shows the completed model.
Fig. 88.
# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/A Steamboat

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​All boys love a toy that “goes”; and so a short account showing how to make
A Steamboat that will actually travel on the water will be very welcome. Our boat, which in reality is not a “steam” boat, inasmuch as no steam is generated, is very simple in its construction and possesses neither wheels nor pistons nor cranks, nor any of the things that one associates with a steamer.
The whole motive power is supplied by one or two candle ends, and a bent piece of strong metal tubing. This last can scarcely be called either “odds” or “ends”; and you will probably have to purchase it at a shop selling model-engine fittings, but a few pence will cover the cost. You must get an eight-inch piece of solid drawn copper or brass tubing, with an inside diameter of ⅛ in. (N.B.—Do not let the man sell you soldered tubing, for it will certainly crack when you bend it.)
The next operation is the most difficult: it is bending the ​tube to the shape shown in Fig. 89. This must be done very gently, otherwise you will crack or dent it. The loop shown should have a diameter of about ⅝ to ¾ of an inch.
The actual boat itself can be of any shape. If you happen to have an old wooden hull suitable to the purpose, use that;
Fig. 89.
if not, then a flat hull similar to that described on page 70 will do quite well. Fix the bent tubing at the stern of the boat, so that the two open ends project over the edge and dip beneath the surface of the water (Fig. 90). Two pieces of wire bent as in Fig. 90a will hold the tubing in place.
All that you need do now is place the candles under the loop of the tube and heat it. (If you have a tiny spirit lamp,
Fig. 90.
that will act more effectively, of course.) The heat from the candles makes the air in the tube very hot. This hot air is expelled from one arm of the tube; and a current of water rushes up one arm of the tube and down the other with considerable force. It is this current that causes the boat to move.
# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/Another Working Steamboat

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​Another Working Steamboat.—This time our boat will merit its name—for we shall have a boiler, and generate a supply of steam.
If you look at Fig. 91 you will get a good idea of the construction of this model, and realise how simple it really is. The boiler is provided by a medium-sized flat oblong tin, with the lid soldered down so that it is steam tight. For the purpose of putting water into the boiler when necessary, a hole is bored in the lid, and a cork fitted tightly.
In one end of the boiler, and towards the top, you must make a pin hole. When the water boils well, the steam is expelled
Fig. 91.
through this tiny hole with considerable force; and to this is due the motion of the craft.
The remainder of the fitting up is soon done. A flat hull similar to that described on page 70 is prepared, and four flat-headed nails driven in, so that the four corners of the boiler can each stand on a nail head. The rudder is cut from an old piece of tin, and pressed into a knife-cut made in the centre of the stern of the hull.
The boiler is placed into position with the steam hole facing the stern, and lighted candle ends are then placed underneath the boiler—as many as possible; for the more the candles ​the greater the heat, and consequently the greater the force of steam. It will help matters along considerably if the boiler is first of all filled with hot water, instead of cold; but be careful not to scald yourself in doing this.
When steam is up, the boat should travel along at quite a comfortable pace.
# Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends/Japanese Wind Bells

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​Apart from the materials dealt with there are numerous little fragments. A pane of glass is broken. for instance, and in most cases all the pieces are thrown away. Now this is quite unnecessary, for from them can be made some
Fig. 92.
Japanese Wind Bells.—Probably most boys and girls have heard or seen the jolly little "wind bells" which the Japanese people make, and which many English folk now hang in their houses. As they are made simply of slips of glass and pieces of wool or string, there is not much difficulty in their construction; and they are worth all the trouble you take, for their merry little tinkle is a pleasing sound.
The slips of glass—they are generally little rectangles, varying from 1 in. to 2 in. in width, and 2 in. to 4 in. in length—are suspended so that when a gentle breeze disturbs them the corners strike gently. To secure a proper suspension, you can either take a board, 6 in. square, and hang the strings from it, or you can make a conical wire frame, about 6 in. across. and hang the pieces of wool (or string) from the two rings (Fig. 92) ​The pieces of glass, which can be of any shape and size, should be fixed by means of sealing wax. It is usual to give the glass slips a few dabs of colour, so as to give a brighter effect at night. If you can introduce one or two pieces of coloured glass, the same effect will result.