# The Life and Voyages of Captain James Cook/Chapter 7

When about to quit the shores of New Zealand, Mr. Cook was desirous of returning home by way of Cape Horn, keeping a high southern latitude, in order to determine, whether there was any great southern continent or not; a question which he had the honour to set at rest in a future voyage: but after consulting with his officers, and weighing the dangers of such a navigation, he finally resolved to steer for the east coast of New Holland, and then follow that coast northward, as far as practicable, with a view to make a passage home by the East Indies.
It was on the 31st of March that the Endeavour sailed from New Zealand, on a westerly course; and on the 19th of April, the coast of New Holland was seen by Lieut. Hicks, from whom the first promontory observed was named Point Hicks, lying in 38° S latitude, 211° 7' W. longitude. No land was seen to the south of it. From thence the ​Commander proceeded northward, following the general direction of the shore, at the distance of a few leagues; and marking, with his usual accuracy, the principal headlands, bays, islands, and other features of the coast. The land was for the most part flat; and by the smoke and fires, observed in various places, was known to be inhabited. On the 27th, an attempt was made to land at a spot where a few natives were seen, with small canoes: but the surf was so great, that the boat could not effect a landing.
On the 28th, our navigators anchored in a bay, which, from the abundance of new plants it afforded, was named Botany Bay. Here several natives appeared on the beach, armed with long lances, which they threw by means of a short stick. Some were also seen in canoes made of bark, and were so eagerly employed in striking fish with their spears, that they took no notice of the ship when she passed them. The whole were stark naked, both men, women, and children; and their bodies were observed to be stained, several of them being marked with broad white streaks. When the Commander and his friends approached the shore in their boats, well manned, all the natives fled, except two; and these had the courage to oppose the landing of the strangers, forty in number. They uttered threats in a harsh dissonant language, which even Tupia could not understand; and brandished their weapons, to defy the invaders. Lieut. Cook, admiring their boldness, and loath to hurt them, made the boat lie on her oars, while he tried to pacify the savages, by throwing them small presents, and making signs to them that he did not mean to hurt them, but only wanted water for his ​people. They took up the presents, and seemed pleased; and when, after the lapse of a quarter of an hour, they waved their hands, this was understood as an invitation to land. But when the boats came to the shore, the two champions again opposed the landing; and the Commander, to quell their courage, fired a musket between them. Startled, but not defeated, one of them threw a stone at the boat; when another musket was fired, and wounded the legs of the oldest with small shot. Even then, instead of relinquishing the unequal contest, he ran to one of the nearest huts, to bring a shield or target, made of bark; and both advancing, darted their lances at the strangers. Another musket with small shot being fired, they threw one lance more, and then ran away.
The party having landed, looked into the huts, which, like those of Terra del Fuego, were of the rudest construction, oven-shaped, and formed with bent rods, or boughs of trees, covered with palm leaves, and broad pieces of bark. It was afterwards ascertained, that the natives often slept among the grass, in the open air. Some children were seen in one hut, concealed behind pieces of bark; but they were not disturbed. Beads, ribbons, and other articles, were left for the natives; but about 50 of their spears, from 6 to 15 feet long, each armed with four prongs, were carried on board. While parties were employed in cutting grass, and getting wood and water, the Indians sometimes gazed on them at a distance; but though invited by many friendly signs, they would not come near. They did not, however, venture to attack the British; except that, on one occasion, when Mr. Monkhouse and two or three more marched up to a body of ​them, and seeing them keep their ground, were seized with a sudden panic, and hastily retreated, four of the natives pursued, and threw their lances with such force, that they flew over the heads of the fugitives. A lance was also thrown from a thicket at the surgeon, when he and another had strayed from their party. At other times, even when they had the advantage, they offered no violence; being perhaps overawed by what they had seen of the effects of our fire-arms in shooting birds. Many parrots, loriquets, quails, &c., were shot by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and others. Tupia, who had become a good marksman, took a share in this sport; and in one of his shooting excursions, when he met with nine of the natives, they fled from him in terror. Short journeys were made into the interior, on various days. The country was found to be thinly inhabited. Beads, combs, and other trinkets, were left for the natives in different spots; although it was noticed with regret, that the articles left in the huts near the beach, remained there untouched.
During their stay here, the ship's crew were refreshed with plentiful supplies of fish, of various soils; among others, a large species of sting-ray, one of which weighed 336 lb. Quantities of oysters, muscles, and other shell-fish, were also obtained. A seaman named Forby Sutherland having died, was buried here. May 1st, near the watering-place. From him the south point of the bay was called Sutherland Point.
In giving name to this bay, and to Port Jackson, which was afterwards seen a little to the north; and in taking formal possession of the country, displaying the British flag, and inscribing the ship's name ​&c., on a tree near the watering-place, the Commander little thought, that the spot which he occupied, then the habitation of the rudest savages, was destined to become the chief seat of an important British colony;—perhaps the commencement of a mighty Australian empire, where arts, commerce, science, and religion, should hereafter flourish.
On May 6th, at day break, the Endeavour sailed from Botany Bay: and in coasting along, the country was seen to be richly diversified with hills and dales, ridges and plains, all clothed with wood; while the shore in front was generally low and sandy. After sailing for some days, our navigators observed, that the land became gradually more elevated, and many lofty hills appeared. Inhabitants were seen at various points; and some who were at no great distance from the ship, instead of gazing with astonishment at its unwonted form and size, seemed to let it pass by them unheeded.
On wednesday, May 23rd, the Commander, with the scientific gentlemen, and Tupia, went ashore in a bay, which was named Bustard Bay, from a large bird of that kind, which was there shot, and enjoyed as a luxury. They found a channel leading into a large lagoon, with mangroves growing on the banks. Quantities of oysters, many of them pearl oysters, were found. Some natives appeared, but kept at a distance. Their lodging places, where they had spent the night in the open air, like other commoners of nature, were visited; and on viewing their miserable accommodations, even Tupia shook his head, with an air of conscious superiority, and exclaimed, Taata enos, "poor wretches!" A remarkable gum-tree was found here, and on many other parts of the coast.
​Our navigators, on the 25th, reached the tropic of Capricorn, from which a cape lying directly under it was named. The 29th and 30th were spent at an inlet called Thirsty Sound, as it afforded no fresh water. Short excursions were made into the country, but the travellers were annoyed with musquitos, and with bearded seeds of a kind of grass, which stuck in their clothes like burs, and penetrated to the flesh. They saw some huge ants' nests, made of clay; and found another species of ants lodging in the branches and twigs of trees, occupying the place of the pith, which they had extracted or destroyed. Millions of butterflies were also seen; and a singular little fish like a minnow, which, by a spring on its pectoral fins, leaped along the beach like a frog. None of the natives appeared; but their fires were found in different spots, with shells and bones of fish near them.
While the naturalists were engaged in their favourite pursuits, our indefatigable navigator climbed a hill, to take views and bearings of the coast; which it was now become dangerous to explore, owing to the myriads of islands, rocks, and shoals, with which it was skirted. In proceeding from Thirsty Sound, to the northward, he observed and named many capes, bays, and islands. One bay he called Cleveland Bay, and the east point of it Cape Cleveland, in honour of the district where he was born; while the west point, that looked like an island, was named Magnetical Isle, as it affected the compass; which was the case with several of the rocky isles along the coast. Natives were seen in various spots, and at one island was a canoe with an outrigger, much better made than the bark canoes of Botany Bay. On thursday, June 7th, ​Lieut. Hicks, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, landed on an island, to procure what appeared to be cocoa nuts; but the tree was found to be the cabbage palm. When they had put off from the shore to return on board, an Indian shouted to them with a loud voice; but on their putting back to see him, he disappeared.
Hitherto our voyagers had met with nothing material to interrupt their progress, in exploring this dangerous coast; but after tracing it through the space of 1300 miles, and arriving at 16° 6' S. latitude, they at last met a point of land which they had reason to name Cape Tribulation. They were steering along, among rocks, shoals, and islands, in a clear moonlight night, being the evening of sabbath, June 10th, when, at supper time, the water suddenly shoaled from 21 fathoms, to 12, 10, and 8. All hands were instantly ordered to their stations, with a view to put about and cast anchor; but the water deepening again to 20 fathom, the gentlemen went to bed. Their rest, however, was very brief; for a few minutes before 11, the water again suddenly shallowed, and presently after the ship struck, and remained immovable, except by the heaving of the surge, beating her against the rocks. In a few moments, all hands were on deck, and every countenance was marked with horror. Yet their fears did not prevent their making immediate exertions to avert or mitigate the danger. The sails were all taken in, and the boats hoisted out to examine the depth of water all round the ship. The result of this examination augmented their fears; for the vessel was found to have been lifted over a ledge of rock, and was lying in a hollow within it. An anchor was carried out astern, ​where the water was deepest, and their whole force was applied to the capstern, to get the ship off in that direction; but the effort was fruitless; and the ship's bottom continuing to beat against the rocks, her sheathing boards, and at last her false keel, were seen floating away; so that her speedy destruction seemed inevitable, especially as the grating of the rock under her starboard bow was distinctly heard in the fore store-room. It being high water, there was no hope of her floating off with a rising tide; yet it was some consolation that, when the tide fell, she settled to the rocks, and beat less violently. A hope also remained, that by lightening the vessel, she might be got off next tide; for which purpose strenuous efforts were now made. The water was started, and pumped up; the six guns that were on deck, the iron and stone ballast, the decayed stores, and other heavy materials, were speedily thrown overboard, every one exerting himself with an alacrity almost approaching to cheerfulness. It was observed, that the men were so far impressed with a sense of their situation, that not an oath was heard among them; the habit of profaneness, however strong, being instantly subdued by the dread of incurring guilt when death seemed to be so near. It is not surprising that, in the immediate prospect of appearing at the bar of God, men should refrain from this heaven-daring sin: the wonder is, that any person endowed with reason and conscience, should ever presume to trifle with the name of the Almighty Creator. This detestable habit, as Dr. Kippis justly terms it, should least of all be expected among mariners, who are "in deaths oft," "in jeopardy every hour." It is gratifying to know, ​that in this respect, as in many others, the morals of our seamen are materially improved since the days of Cook.
At day break on monday the 11th, our distressed navigators found their position to be eight leagues from the land, without one intervening island, to afford them a temporary place of refuge, in case of shipwreck. Had there been a gale of wind, the ship would inevitably have gone to pieces; but, through the kindness of Providence, the wind gradually abated, till there was a dead calm. At eleven o'clock the vessel was expected to float; but so much did the day tide fall short of that of the night, that, to their inexpressible concern, she did not float by a foot and a half, although she had been lightened about fifty tons. It was, therefore, necessary to lighten her still more, and to wait for the evening tide, in the hope of then getting her off. But at five o'clock, when the tide began to rise, it was found that the leak had increased to such an alarming degree, that two more pumps were manned, one of which only would work. At nine o'clock the ship righted, but the leak had gained so considerably, that it was feared the ship would sink as soon as she was moved off the rock. While the tide was gradually rising, a season of the most painful suspense was experienced; for the floating of the ship was anticipated, not as an earnest of deliverance, but as the crisis of a fatal catastrophe. In the event of the ship's going down, the boats could not carry all on shore; many might perish in the struggle for a place in them, at a time when all subordination would cease; and if any reached the shore, they would perish by the hands of savages, or linger out a ​wretched existence in a desolate wilderness, without hope, and without comfort. Such were the gloomy prospects of our mariners in that memorable night. But Providence was kinder to them than their fears anticipated. Through vigorous efforts at the capstern and windlass, the ship was floated off into deep water, about twenty minutes after ten, and it was found that the leak did not admit more water than before. Incessant labour at the pump was, however, required, to prevent the leak from gaining; and the men became so exhausted, that they could only work about five or six minutes together, when they threw themselves down on the deck, though a stream of water, three or four inches deep, was running over it from the pumps; and when those who succeeded them had worked their spell, they also threw themselves down, and the others started up to take their place. While they were thus alternately relieving each other, an accident occurred which had well nigh overwhelmed them with despair. When the person who measured the depth of water was relieved, the man who succeeded him took the depth to the outside planking, instead of the inside; so that the water appeared to have gained eighteen inches in a few minutes. Yet the mistake had a happy result, for being presently corrected, a most favourable reaction was produced; the joy that succeeded the horrors of despair, put life and energy into the men, and before eight in the morning, the pumps had gained considerably on the leak. And now, the hope of getting the ship into some harbour being revived, such hands as could be spared from the pumps were employed in taking up the anchors, and putting the vessel into sailing trim: so ​that, about eleven o'clock, having a breeze from the sea, they were able to sail for the land, with the loss of only an anchor and a cable.
Yet the exhausting work at the pumps might have worn out the strength of the men, had not the expedient of fothering the ship been fallen upon by Mr. Monkhouse, the midshipman, who had seen it employed to save a merchant ship in crossing the Atlantic. Assisted by four or five of the people, he took a large studding sail, and slightly stitched to it handfuls of oakum and wool, which he covered with sheep's dung, and hauling it under the ship's bottom by means of ropes, the suction of the water at the leak carried in oakum and wool, which so reduced its size, that it was now easily kept under with a single pump. This gave a fresh spring to the hopes of our mariners; who, instead of proposing to run the Endeavour on shore, and build a small vessel out of her materials, to convey them to the East Indies, as had been in agitation,—were now cheered with the prospect of repairing her, and prosecuting their voyage home in safety. "Upon this occasion," says Capt. Cook, "I must observe, both in justice and gratitude to the ship's company, and the gentlemen on board, that, although in the midst of our distress, every one seemed to have a just sense of his danger, yet no passionate exclamations, or frantic gestures, were to be heard or seen, every one appeared to have the perfect possession of his mind, and every one exerted himself to the uttermost, with a quiet and patient perseverance, equally distant from the tumultuous violence of terror, and the gloomy inactivity of despair." There cannot be a doubt, that the courage, coolness, and ​presence of mind, displayed by the Commander himself, on this most trying occasion, contributed in no small degree to produce this happy result. When an officer is noisy and blustering, his crew will seldom be in good order; but a calm, intrepid self-possession, will do wonders in maintaining discipline, and inspiring confidence, in seasons of alarm.
Proceeding cautiously to the N.W. with their leaky ship, our voyagers passed two small islands, which they called Hope Islands, as they had hoped, or rather wished, to, reach them, in the event of shipwreck. Approaching the main land at different points, in search of a harbour, they discovered one on thursday, the 14th, exactly adapted to their purpose; but the fresh sea breezes blowing hard, they could not enter it till the 17th. On the 18th, a stage was made from the ship to the shore, a tent was erected for those who had begun to be afflicted with the scurvy, among whom were Mr. Green and Tupia. In another tent the ship's stores were deposited; and the fore and main hold being almost emptied, the ship's bow was hauled close ashore, to examine the leak. It was now found, that the rocks had made their way through four planks, damaged three more, and penetrated also into the timbers, so that if the latter had not been very close, the ship could not possibly have been saved. After all, her preservation was owing to a circumstance still more remarkable: one of the holes, which was big enough to have sunk her, had there been eight pumps, instead of three, incessantly going, was in a great measure plugged up by a fragment of the rock, which after having made the wound, was left sticking in it! The fothering was also found to ​have stopped those parts of the leak which the stone did not fill up. Thus, by the kindness of Divine Providence, a variety of agents concurred to preserve them. They enjoyed a perfect calm on the rock, although fresh breezes were blowing both before and after; they had a firm Whitby built ship, with close and strong timbers; the process of fothering was thought of, and successfully adopted, in their time of need; and above all, a part of the very rock that pierced their ship, stuck in the hole which it had made, and thus preserved what it had threatened to destroy! Had any one of these advantages been wanting, they must have perished. With respect to the fothering, it is well remarked in the narrative of their approach to the harbour, "In all the joy of our unexpected deliverance, we had not forgotten, that at this time there was nothing but a lock of wool between us and destruction."
The smith's forge was set up on shore, to make nails, bolts, &c.; while the carpenters laboured diligently in repairing the ship. In the course of a week, the repairs under the bow were completed; but the ship's bottom under the stern could not be reached, without heaving her down, which was thought impracticable. On a close examination, however, it appeared that, although portions of the sheathing had been rubbed off, the damage there was not material. While the repairs were going on, the ship's head was so much elevated above the stern, that the water in the hold was thrown backwards, and unfortunately injured a portion of Mr. Banks's valuable collection of plants, which had been removed into the bread-room, as a place of security.
​As it was an arduous task to get the ship's bow hauled on shore, so, when the repairs were finished, considerable difficulty was felt in heaving her off; and it was not until after two or three trials, that this was accomplished with empty casks. In floating her off, it was found that, owing to the straining occasioned by her position, fresh damage had been done. This also being repaired, the stores began to be taken on board, and the ship to be refitted for sea, on thursday, July 5th; but another month elapsed before she sailed, much time being spent, in looking out for the best channel through the numerous shoals and rocks in the vicinity, and in waiting for a favourable wind.
In the mean time, the refreshments which the place afforded, had a happy effect on the health of the ship's company. Some useful vegetables were discovered by Mr. Banks; particularly Indian kale, cabbage palms, a species of beans, and plenty of purslain; all which were liberally used. Good supplies of fish were also procured, and quantities of valuable shell-fish, among which was a very large kind of cockle. During the last month of their stay, several excellent green turtle were taken, which afforded the ship's company many delicious meals. In these refreshments, not excepting the turtle, all on board had an equal share; the meanest seaman having the same fare as the Commander. This plan of distribution was admirably calculated to encourage the men, amidst the dangers and privations of such a voyage. They could not object to share with their officers in every hardship, as they were admitted to partake with them in every luxury.
Pigeons of various sorts, with some beautiful ​cockatoos, loriquets, and parrots, were found here. That singular animal, the kangaroo, now well known as peculiar to New Holland, was also discovered. It resembles the jerboa, in being formed for leaping, rather than running; the hind legs being remarkably long, and the fore legs very short. Two of them were killed and eaten, and one of them furnished a rich repast. Other new and singular animals were occasionally observed. One day a seaman, who had been rambling in the woods, returned and told that he had seen the devil. "He was," said Jack, "as large as a one gallon keg, and very like it; he had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowly through the grass, that if I had not been afeard, I might have touched him!" This formidable apparition turned out to be a very large species of bat; which certainly had a frightful appearance, although it had no horns. Mr. Banks, in one of his numerous trips into the country, had the good fortune to take an animal of the opossum tribe, a female, with two young ones. On friday, July 6th, he sailed some leagues up the river in a boat, accompanied by Lieut. Gore and three men; and spent the day in examining the country, and its various productions. In the evening they lodged on the banks of the river; but were so annoyed with musquitos, that they could not sleep. Next day, they traversed the country in various directions, and proceeded further up the river, which was soon contracted into a fresh water brook. In the evening, they found a fire burning, which some of the natives had recently left, and saw near it a number of huts, and some ovens dug in the ground, like those of Otaheite. Notwithstanding their near neighbourhood to the savages, the party laid ​themselves down, and slept soundly on a bed of plantain leaves, spread on a sand bank, with their cloaks for bed clothes, and bunches of grass for pillows! They returned safely in the morning, down the river, favoured by the ebbing tide.
Such of the natives as had been seen, having hitherto fled when our people approached them, the Commander resolved to try what could be done by appearing to take no notice of them. This scheme succeeded so well, that when four natives made their appearance on the 10th, two of them approached the ship in a canoe; and at length, invited by friendly signs, came alongside. Presents of cloth, nails, beads, and paper, were received by them with indifference, as they knew not their use; but when a small fish was thrown them, they expressed the greatest joy imaginable, and paddled off to bring their companions, with whom they quickly returned. Some more presents were given them, and they all landed, and were prevailed on to lay aside their lances, and sit down beside Tupia and his friends. They continued here until dinner time, but declined an invitation to dinner. morning, three of them returned, bringing with them another, whom they introduced by his name, Yaparico. This man not only had his ears pierced, but a piece of bird's bone thrust through the cartilage that divides the nostrils, and projecting about three inches on each side. This grotesque ornament of the natives, the sailors jocularly called their sprit-sail yard. The rest also had holes in their ears, as well as in the cartilage of the nose; but at this time the holes were empty. They also wore bracelets of plaited hair on their arms; and some were afterwards seen with necklaces of shells. ​With this love of ornament, they had no idea of wearing clothes; and one of them, to whom part of an old shirt was given, instead of using it to cover his body, tied it as a fillet round his head. At this visit, they brought with them a fish, apparently in return for the one given them the day before.
The natives paid several other visits to the ship; but nothing remarkable occurred till the 19th, when no less than ten men came on board. Twelve turtles were lying on deck, and the natives signified that they wanted one; and by looks and gestures, expressed great disappointment and anger when it was refused. Some biscuit was offered one of them; but he snatched it, and threw it overboard in disdain. One of them again applied to Mr. Banks for a turtle, and on being refused, stamped with his foot, and pushed him away in a rage. Repulsed in their successive applications to every officer on deck, they suddenly seized two turtles, and began to drag them towards their canoe; and when they were taken from them and replaced, they repeated the seizure again and again. Baffled in all their attempts, they at last leaped into their canoe in great indignation, and paddled towards the shore. The Commander, with Mr. Banks and five or six men, getting into a boat, arrived before them, at a place where several seamen were variously employed. As soon as the natives landed, they seized their arms, and before any one was aware of their design, they snatched a firebrand from under the pitch kettle, and making a circuit to the windward of the few things then on shore, set fire to the grass in their way with surprising dexterity; and the grass being tall and dry, blazed with great fury, burnt the wood work at the smith's forge, ​and would have consumed a tent belonging to Mr. Banks, had he not quickly brought some people from the ship to save it. Not satisfied with this revenge, the infuriated savages set fire to the grass, at another spot where a quantity of nets and linen were laid out to dry; but a musket, loaded with small shot, being fired at one of them, they took to flight, and the fire there was extinguished; but where first kindled, it spread far into the woods. The Indians being still in sight, a musket ball was fired among some mangroves near them, upon which they speedily retreated. Some time after, their voices were heard in the woods, and as they seemed to draw near, the Commander, with Mr. Banks and a few more, went to meet them. When the parties came in sight, the savages halted; an old man came to meet the English, and after uttering some unintelligible words, went back to his companions, who then slowly retreated. The Commander's party seized some of their darts, and followed them about a mile; both parties then halted, and the old man again approached, carrying a pointless spear, and performing various ceremonies; when, signs of peace being made in return, he called out aloud to his companions, who having set up their lances against a tree, came forward as friends. The spears that had been taken from them were now returned, and the reconciliation was thus completed. Some presents were given them, and they walked back with the Commander and his friends to the ship, making signs by the way, that they would not burn the grass any more. They remained about two hours near the ship, but would not go on board. A few days after, a man who had strayed from a party collecting Indian ​kale, fell in with four natives broiling a bird and part of a kangaroo at a fire. The man, who was unarmed, had the presence of mind to dissemble his fears, and sat down beside them in apparent good humour. They examined his clothes, hands, and face; but treated him with great civility, and afterwards directed him on his way to the ship. Little could be made of the language of these people; but they were wont to express surprise, by exclaiming, chercau, or cher, tut, tut, tut, tut!
After much time spent in selecting the best channel, and waiting for a fair wind, our navigators, on saturday, August 4th, sailed from the harbour that had so long sheltered them, and which they called Endeavour River. They might have named it Mercy River, in commemoration of their merciful deliverance, and the many mercies here experienced. The journal of the voyage records, that on July 1st, being sunday, the men had liberty to go on shore. That day should have been observed as a day of thanksgiving for their almost miraculous preservation; and doubtless many of them must have been sensible of the special protection which they had enjoyed, and their deep obligations to a merciful Providence.