# Narrative of a Voyage Round the World (Belcher)/Volume 1/Chapter 1

An annotated version of this text is available.
CHAPTER I.
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD.
CHAPTER I.
On the 25th of September, 1835, her Majesty's ship Sulphur, three hundred and eighty tons, previously fitted for a surveying vessel, was commissioned by Captain Beechey as a sixth rate, with a complement of 109 men. Her Majesty's schooner Starling, one hundred and nine tons, fitted as a tender, was likewise commissioned by Lieutenant H. Kellett, both vessels being intended for carrying on the survey of the Pacific, from Valparaiso to 60° 30′ N.
On the 24th December they quitted Plymouth, and touching at Madeira January 7th, 1836, Teneriffe 13th, Rio de Janeiro February 19th, St. Catherine's February 28th, Monte Video April 6th, reached Valparaiso, the first port within the limits of their survey, on June 9th.
At this port Captain Beechey, whose health had ​for some time been suffering, found that his constitution was too much shattered to allow of his continuing the command, subject to such changes of climate as it would necessarily entail; and therefore, having been invalided, he returned to England in her Majesty's ship, North Star.
Lieutenant Kellett, of the Starling, was then appointed acting commander of the Sulphur, and Lieutenant Dashwood, first of the Sulphur, to the command of the Starling.
The vessels then proceeded to Callao August 7th, Paita August 21st, Guayaquil 24th, Gorgona January 11th, 1837, and finally reached Panama on January 29th, where they had been directed to await further instructions from England.
On the Lords of the Admiralty receiving notice of the return of Captain Beechey, their Lordships thought fit to entrust me with the command. I was at that time employed in Lancashire, surveying its coasts; but was merely performing that duty until another steamer could be provided, to enable me to resume my proper command of the Irish Sea survey. On the 10th November, 1836, I received my appointment to her Majesty's ship Sulphur, and a passage having been ordered for me in her Majesty's steamer Echo, I proceeded in her to Portsmouth, where I had to complete some magnetic experiments, and thence to Falmouth, where the illness of Lieutenant Reid, commander of the Echo, caused some little delay. This was perhaps fortunate, as a very ​severe hurricane, which caused much damage to houses, trees, chimneys, &c., occurred the day previous to our departure. My detention here was also productive of much satisfaction and benefit, by the access it afforded me to books, and the introduction to scientific friends, particularly to Mr. James Were Fox, a gentleman already well known to the scientific world.
On the 30th we quitted Falmouth, having on board despatches to deliver at Lisbon, where we were also to fill up our coal.
Here we were detained by the perverseness of our engineer, and by other trivial matters, over which, until the commanders of steam vessels are better informed on scientific subjects, they will have no control.
On the 27th December we quitted Lisbon, blindly steaming at full coal, in spite of every remonstrance, expecting to reach the trade limit before it could be expended. On the last day, at the last four hours' coal, I succeeded in persuading the commander to try one boiler with half fuel, and he then found that the difference was eight knots at full expenditure, and six and a half with half. We did not reach the trade limit, and we were left at the mercy of strong breezes from N.W. to S.W. for nine days, making but trifling progress.
On January 1st a calm succeeded, and I caused a current bottle to be put over, which reached Half-moon Bay on the island of Antigua on the 16th July ​following; having travelled during this interval, nearly west, 1440 miles, or at the rate of 7.4 per diem.
To our chagrin, the westerly breezes revisited us, and unfortunately, instead of standing southerly where smooth water and the trade might be hoped for, we kept attempting to work westerly.
On January 2nd we experienced a favourable flaw, by which we were compelled to make southing, and at length secured the steady trade wind.
Sunday, 8th.—Being seven hundred and sixty-five miles from Barbadoes, another current bottle was put over. On the evening of the 13th, we shipped the paddle floats, got the steam up, and at daylight on the 14th made the island of Barbadoes.
At eight we passed her Majesty's ship Melville, bearing the flag of Vice-Admiral Sir P. Halkett, Belvidera, Captain Strong, and Racehorse, Sir E. Home.
Having delivered to the Admiral a letter from the Admiralty respecting my movements, I was directed to proceed on immediately to Jamaica, and if no ship of war was there, to proceed on in the steamer to Chagres.
I was fortunate in finding all the commanders old friends, and from my good messmate. Sir E. Home, received much valuable information, as well as hints to guide me in my future movements at Chagres, at that period not quite so well known.
In the evening we again started for Jamaica, having taken on board Mr. Sturge of the Society of ​Friends, a gentleman engaged in the examination into slave affairs.
On the morning of the 22nd we reached Port Royal, and just as we were letting the steam off and about to anchor, I was informed that a large ship seen outside was her Majesty's ship Forte, Commodore Pell, bound to Carthagena. I directed the commander to proceed after her immediately, and it being calm, very soon had the pleasure of waiting on Commodore O. Pell, who took me under his immediate protection as an old friend of my father's; the steamer was then released for packet duty.
I now learned, that as war, or rather a close blockade of the ports of New Granada, had been proclaimed by Commodore Sir J. Peyton, under present circumstances it would have been unsafe to proceed to Panama viâ Chagres, and therefore remained quietly the guest of my kind friend, Commodore, (now Sir O. Pell).
The cause of this rupture is already well known: I shall therefore merely observe that until the terms sent out by Lord Palmerston were fully acceded to, I saw but little chance of reaching my ship, which caused me some uneasiness; fearing that the acting commander of the Sulphur, on finding that the state of affairs precluded the chance of communication would move away to survey some other port until amicable relations were restored.
On the 25th we arrived off Carthagena, where we found her Majesty's ship Madagascar, bearing ​the pendant of Commodore Sir J. Peyton, with the rest of the West Indian and North American squadron blockading the port.
I was then transferred to the Madagascar, Sir John Peyton very kindly following up the attentions I had experienced from my friend Commodore Pell, who shortly after quitted us to return to Jamaica.
In order to obtain as much information as our position would afford, I volunteered to examine the bay and passage to the Passo Cavallos, and became the guest of Captain Warren of the Serpent, who was ordered to intercept supplies destined for Carthagena by that channel.
Whilst employed on this service, one of Captain Warren's crew was unfortunately shot by a person concealed amongst the bushes; and the same evening a boat belonging to the Government reached us with orders to return. Having with me the Commodore's barge and crew, I immediately determined, as we were informed that hostilities had ceased, on making a short cut through the Pass, the pilot offering no opposition. I thus obtained some insight into this channel, which I afterwards found was not opened to foreigners.
By a small steamer it could easily be passed; but the width, barely sufHcient Ibr the oars of the barge, would render it a rash step in uncovered boats, the trees, which are well cleared for ten yards or more back, affording ample shelter for musketry.
On reaching the port, I found the Madagascar ​and other ships moored within. General Lopez, having received from Bogota the fullest powers to treat definitively, had consented to the demands in full; the greatest obstacle, the production of the money, being overcome, that night five thousand dollars were lodged on board the Madagascar.
The Nimrod, just arrived from Chagres, had brought Mr. Russell, the cause of the late rupture; he had been released by order of the Government. It also brought the lamentable news of the decease of the new consul, Mr. Turner, from a sudden attack of inflammation of the stomach.
The Nimrod was then ordered to convey me to Chagres, together with an officer from the Madagascar, to seal the papers of the late consul, and bring back the widow and daughters of the deceased.
Supernumeraries are nuisances in all ships, under any circumstances, and are apt to feel more than they can well express : but I must candidly confess, for myself, that from the moment I put my foot on board the Forte, to that of quitting the Nimrod, the kindness and attention I met Avith from their several warm-hearted commanders will ever be remembered with pleasure.
After a smart passage the Nimrod anchored off Chagres on February 7th, and Captain Fraser and myself landed, and communicated to the governor (La Barriere) the very agreeable intelligence that hostilities had terminated. I say agreeable, because, although his bearing bespoke him an ardent character, he had still ​the good sense to see that the war must injure his adopted country, (being a Frenchman,) and he was anxious to return to his family, which he had left at his estate in Chiriqui.
The cessation of hostilities, however, appeared agreeable to all classes; although it is an undoubted fact, that but a few weeks before, the people of this part of the State of New Grenada were most virulent against Great Britain, as being more immediately connected with, and under the control of, the governor of Panama. Much bravado and boasting had been exhibited, but the pseudo warriors vanished with the calumet of peace.
We were very cordially received by La Barriere, who is a person superior to such an insignificant command. Our baggage was landed, and before dark restowed in a bongo calculated to carry seventy bales, (of one hundred and twenty pounds each,) fitted with arched thatch abaft, and capable of accommodating six passengers.
As previous travellers have not sufficiently dwelt on the details of the conveniences which may be obtained for transit of despatches, passengers, baggage, cargoes, &c., from Chagres across the isthmus, by land as well as by water, I trust I shall not be deemed tedious by detailing all that may positively be ensured.
​Canoes of the tonnage of seventy bales and under, to proceed to Gorgona or Cruces, are to be obtained at the rate of ten to eighty-five dollars; during the freshes, or rainy season, something higher.
A despatch to Panama, express, with the reply, should be seventeen dollars; time, seventy-two hours at longest. A small canoe with two persons and a change (of luggage), may get to Gorgona in sixteen or eighteen hours, and on to Panama in nine hours, if daylight favours; but this can only be performed by an European; the common proprio will take his time. The cost is ten or fifteen dollars.
The "rapids," or dangers of grounding, are mere bugbears. In large or heavily-laden canoes much delay or stoppage may arise during the dry season; but even with our heavy cargo, and the present dry period, we were not delayed more than five hours.
No danger exists in point of highway or sea robbery. The people, generally, may be trusted with large sums of money. Part of my baggage was missing for eight or ten days, but without apprehension on the part of the residents at Panama, who affirmed "that it must he safe." And so it proved, — having been delayed by the breaking down of the mules. It was eventually borne on the heads of men: one package weighed one hundred and seventy-six pounds.
As our passage was not to commence until dawn, we took up our quarters in a house provided by an Englishman, with the intention of enjoying a ​preliminary nap, the last we expected on this side of Panama. In this, however, we were disappointed, as the whole village assembled nearly beneath our windows, and maintained a constant succession of native songs and dancing, accompanied by very discordant music, until dawn, when they dispersed, and we embarked, in all seven persons — the lieutenant of the Madagascar, the purser, mate, and my steward, of the Sulphur, assistant-surgeon, and lieutenant of the Nimrod, and myself.
We quitted the bank, and notwithstanding our ill-founded suspicions, very soon enjoyed a most comfortable nap under our awning, formed by a thatch of palm leaves, covered finally by a painted canvass.
Our crew consisted of the padron and five rowers, their rate of pay on these occasions being five reals each, or two shillings and sixpence per diem. Although the cost of this canoe up was eighty-five dollars, the return charge, waiting twenty-four hours, was only ten. Any delay beyond twenty-four hours entails a charge of five reals a day per man.
Our journey commenced at rather a slow rate. The men, perhaps, had not lately worked together, or, possibly, were fatigued by their dancing exertions of the previous night. They were inclined, I thought, to exhibit an independence; in fact, they would move only at their own convenience; and of this we shortly had a specimen. On our arrival at Gatun, about eleven miles from Chagres, we stopped to allow the crew time to dine. Unfortunately their ​wives resided here, and having already received part of their pay in advance, it was not without much difficulty, and by the exertion of the padron, that we succeeded in getting away at all, and much sulkiness and ill-humour were exhibited by one of the crew during the remainder of our voyage.
About three p.m. we moved on, and at sunset came to for the night at a sandy beach, where our crew recommenced their culinary operations.
They had provided themselves with rice and ripe cocoa-nuts at Chagres. The cocoa-nut having been grated finely, by one of Nature's provisions on the banks of the river, [the stem of a plant very closely studded with fine spines,] is put into an iron pot, mixed with a small portion of water, and boiled until it becomes milky. It is then strained by another of Dame Nature's utensils, viz. a sieve made of the Gorgonia flabellum, or Venus's fan, and the remains finally squeezed by hand. This milky fluid is boiled with the rice, and affords, with the addition of sugar and rice, a very palatable mess. I am told it is very delicious, and frequently given to children.
We were not without music this night; the frogs maintained their concert in imitation of our friends at Chagres. One of our party having inquired what caused the noise, and being answered serpo, a term applied to frogs here, thinking it meant a snake, was rather shy of the shore for the rest of the night.
At dawn the crew breakfasted, and we then ​recommenced our journey with more spirit. At this stage the oars were replaced by long poles shod with iron, similar to those used in our Thames punts. A platform consisting of a single plank on each side enabled them to walk about fifteen feet forwards, and with the pole to the shoulder walking aft maintained a rate equal to about two miles per hour against the stream.
Up to this point a ship's gig could come with ease, and, in case of necessity, I should think even to Gorgona. Here a canoe might be despatched over night, with fresh hands, in readiness to effect the utmost despatch. The gig probably would get thus far in half the time required by a canoe, and mostly under canvass.
Just above this position, at Palo Matea, poor Captain Foster, of her Majesty's ship Chanticleer, met his melancholy fate. The spot is not now marked, but a brass tablet rudely engraved, and but an insignificant monument, even for a seaman, still remains in Fort Lorenzo, to show how little is thought of the pet of science, when his services are no longer available.
Our progress this second day afforded us little change, save in the appearance of a few more alligators and iguanas. Some of the latter were taken by our crew, who displayed some tact in putting them in durance, although cruel — viz. by breaking the claw joints and passing one claw through the ligament of its opposite member, — toggling their hands over their necks, as a seaman would term it. The ​eggs of the iguana are much esteemed; every house displays strings of them hung up to dry; the children eat them; after which, having filled them with air, they explode them by a blow of the hand, in mock contention, causing a very sharp report. They are similar to those of the tortoise or turtle, but in size not exceeding that of the pigeon.
A second night we passed in our canoe. The work of the following day became more tedious, owing to the dryness of the river, which frequently compelled us to land. On one occasion, our passage was for some time obstructed by a large tree, which had fallen across the stream at its most rapid point. Fortunately, in its fall it had broken away so much of the bank, which the stream, impeded in its former course, had forced a channel through, that we effected our passage by this new cut, after some little dexterity on the part of the boatmen, aided by our exertions.
It may readily be imagined, that with eight chronometers in the canoe, and depending on their performance, it was not the difficulties or other disagreeables of the voyage, which kept me continually in torment. In fact, every time the canoe touched anything more solid than water my senses were excited.
About sunset we got sight of Gorgona, and were shortly after housed for the night (excepting, however, for astronomical observations) in a habitation provided by the alcaldé.
Our baggage was landed by eight the following ​morning, and it was intended that the party should have moved on immediately for Panama. But want of mules and previous arrangement detained them until noon, when the greater part had moved forward. My astronomical observations detained me until three, when Lieut. Bevan and myself mounted our steeds, intending to reach Panama that evening.
One of the mates was left behind in charge of three chronometers, to await my return for rocket operations, in order to complete the meridian distance between the Atlantic and Pacific, or between Chagres and Panama, where the tides have effect. A party from the Sulphur, which had been ordered to meet me here, having been, by the mistake of the guide, taken to Cruces, missed me entirely.
Shortly before sunset, having lost our guide, we fell into the wrong road, but eventually met with shelter for the night in a hut where nothing else could be obtained. In the morning, by the assistance of the peasant, our host, we were enabled to reach the main road, and about two that evening arrived at Panama, when we found that those who had preceded us had also been similarly unfortunate.
Our first efforts were directed to free ourselves from the garrapatas, or ticks, which infest the woods of this country, and we then proceeded to pay our respects to the widow and family of the late consul, whom we found residing at the house of Mr. Dawson, the only English merchant (although by birth a Russian,) resident here.
​The Sulphur, on arriving, had ascertained the state of affairs, and finding it probable that they would not immediately be settled, her commander had deemed it prudent to avoid any chance of collision with any of the braggadocios, (who volunteered to capture her if necessary,) and therefore fixed on the island of Taboga, about twelve miles distant, where he had fixed his observatory.
As it became important that the distances should be measured from Panama, from whence the rockets might be seen, and as all our western operations were to hinge on this position, the Sulphur was ordered to repair to Panama, and the observatory was erected on the N.E. angle of the fortifications.
Instructions, in reply to notes forwarded to our various consuls from the foreign office, had already reached from Bogota, directing the several authorities to afford me every facility; and I now found that no impediment would have been offered, even had I arrived in the midst of the blockade. The instructions to the commandant at Chagres warranted this, and the facilities offered by the authorities at Panama fully evinced their disposition to second the views of the governor of Bogota.