# The Art of German Cooking and Baking/Chapter 6

CHAPTER 6.
POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS.
The young chicken has a slender body and a delicate color. All young poultry has long legs, soft skin, feathers with oily quill that can be pulled out easily, small red comb, long claws and an elastic breast bone.
Old hens have a small, pale comb. If you wish to keep poultry, hang it up for a few days with the plumage, then pick it and dress it, stuff it with white paper, hang it up or wrap it in a clean cloth and put it on ice.
Poultry must not be cooked directly after slaughtering, because it will not get tender. According to the season it will keep 1—3 days.
A young chicken is roasted or fried. It is best when 8 to 16 weeks old. Old hens are good for cooking.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 2—3 young spring chickens
* Salt
* ¼ lb. of butter
* 1 tbsp. of flour
* ½ cup of sweet cream
* ½ pt. of water
* 3 thin slices of bacon
Preparation: The chicken is dressed, washed and dried well inside and outside and rubbed with salt.
Heart and liver may be put back into the chicken, gizzard and neck into the pan. The bacon slices are tied over the breast of the chicken, the pieces of butter put on top and then placed in the oven to roast one hour, basting it often until it is a golden yellow or light brown. Add water from time to time so that the butter will not get too brown. During the last 15 minutes put the cream, the flour and if necessary, water into the butter and let it simmer 15 minutes longer. Strain the gravy and serve with the chicken.
Remarks: You may leave off the bacon, but must baste the chicken every 5 minutes, because the breast gets dry very quickly.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 2 young chickens
* 2 slices of bacon to tie across the breast
* ¼ lb. butter for frying
* Salt
* ½ tbsp. of flour
* ½ cup of cream
* ½ pt. of water
* The heart, liver and gizzard
* 1 roll
* 1 tbsp. of butter
* 2 eggs
* 1 tsp. of finely chopped parsley
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* 1 pinch of nutmeg
* ½ tbsp. of lemon juice
Preparation: The chickens are dressed, washed, dried and salted inside and outside. The stuffing made of finely chopped heart, liver, gizzard, from which the tough membrane has been removed, soaked roll, salt, pepper, parsley, nutmeg, butter, eggs and lemon juice, well mixed, is put into the chickens, the slices of bacon tied across the breast, the chickens sewed up and roasted exactly like No. 1.
Remarks: The stuffing may be made richer with ½ cup of chopped champignons and 3 truffles chopped fine.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 2 young chickens
* ¼ lb. of butter
* 2 slices of bacon
* ½ cup of sweet cream
* ½ pt. of water
* 1 tbsp. of flour
* Salt
* 2 tbsps. of butter
* 1 tbsp. of finely sliced onion
* Heart, liver, gizzard chopped fine
* 2 eggs
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* 1 pinch of nutmeg
* 1 tsp. of finely chopped parsley
* 1 roll soaked and the water pressed out
Preparation: The chickens are prepared as described in No. 1 and 2.
The stuffing is made by heating the butter and stewing the onion slices to a light yellow in it, then add the chopped heart, liver and gizzard and stew 5 minutes. Add the roll and all the other ingredients, stew another few minutes, stir in the eggs, stuff the chickens, sew them up, tie bacon across the breast and fry the same as in No. 1.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 2 young chickens
* ⅛ lb. of butter
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* Bouillon or water
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* 1½ wineglassful of red wine
* ½ pt. small champignons or
* 30 fresh, cleaned champignons
* Juice of 1 lemon
Preparation: The chickens are dressed and washed and fried in ½ lb. of butter in the oven for 15 minutes, basting them several times. After this time, stir into the butter the 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, add bouillon or water, salt, pepper, wine and champignons, cover the pot or pan, stew the chickens for 1 hour. Lastly put in the lemon juice and serve the chickens and gravy on one platter.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 1 old chicken or 2 young ones
* 3 qts. of water
* Salt
* ¾ cup of rice
* Water and chicken bouillon
* ½ tbsp. of fresh butter
* 2 slices of onion
* 1 tbsp. of butter
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* ½ wineglassful of white wine
* 2 yolks of eggs
* Chicken bouillon
Preparation: The chickens are dressed, washed and boiled until tender in 3 qts. of water, the salt and onion slices. Boil a young chicken 45 minutes, old chicken 2-3 hours, according to its age. In the meantime, cook the rice in a double-boiler with a few cups of bouillon and a little salt. When the rice is done, stir in a piece of fresh butter. Do not cook it too mushy.
The Gravy: Stir 1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 of flour, add some of the chicken-broth, cook a few minutes till it thickens, add the white wine and stir in the 2 yolks of eggs.
The chickens are carved in nice pieces and placed in a heap in the middle of the platter, the rice around it and the gravy poured over the meat; or leave the chicken whole, place the rice around and serve the gravy separately.
Remarks: The gravy may be prepared without wine.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 2 young chickens or
* 1 old one
* 3 qts. of water
* Salt
* 1 tbsp. of butter
* 1½ tbsps. of flour
* ½ lb. of butter and lard, more butter than lard or butter only
* ½ lb. of flour, good measure
* 1½ tumblerfuls of water
Preparation: The chickens are dressed, washed and put to boil in the water and salt. Young chicken will be tender in 45 minutes, old chicken in 2 to 3 hours.
The Paste: Butter and lard must be very cold. Cut it into the flour and add the very cold water, mix lightly and roll one-half of it out in ¼ inch thick layer. The paste must be dry; the butter must be visible after rolling. Put this layer into a baking-dish, cut up the chickens, put the pieces into the dish, pour in the bouillon so that meat and broth are even. Roll the other half of the paste, make a few cuts into it and cover the pie, trimming off the edge neatly. Bake in the oven 1 hour to a golden yellow color. Leave only enough broth for the gravy. Stir into the broth 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1½ of flour, cook, strain and serve with the pie.
Cabbage salad and fresh boiled potatoes go nicely with it.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 1 small young chicken
* Salt
* 1½ qts. of water
* 2 tbsps. of butter
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* Chicken broth
* ½ wineglassful of white wine
* ½ cup sweet cream
* Juice of ½ lemon
* Salt
* 1 pinch of white pepper
* ½ pt. can champignons
* ½ lb. very cold fresh butter
* ½ lb. flour
* 1 tbsp. of strong brandy
* ½ of an egg
* ¼ pt. very cold water
Preparation: The chicken is prepared well and cooked until tender in 1½ qts. of salt water, then cut up into very small pieces.
​The Gravy: Melt the butter, stir in the flour, fill up with chickenbroth, add cream and wine, cook till it thickens, put in the chopped champignons and the meat, season with salt and pepper, fill hot into the ready baked patties. Then bake in moderately hot oven for about 10 minutes and serve immediately.
Bake the patties according to No. 29, Chapter 3, Veal Sweetbread Patties.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 1¼ lbs. of cooked chicken
* 2 tbsps. of butter
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* Some bouillon
* ½ wineglassful of white wine
* Juice of ½ lemon
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* ½ cup of sweet cream
Preparation: The chicken meat is cut up into small pieces. Butter is melted and flour stirred in, broth, cream and white wine added, seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon juice, cooked and filled into the shells or other small molds. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, place pieces of butter on top and bake in oven to a nice brown color.
Remarks: This ragout may be improved with ½ pt. of finely chopped champignons and 4 truffles also chopped fine. This chicken ragout in shells makes an excellent side-dish.
The preparation and ingredients are the same as in No. 31, Veal Croquettes, or No. 30, Veal Sweetbread Croquettes. See Chapter 3.
Quantity for 6–8 Persons.
* 2 young chickens
* Salt
* ¼ lb. of butter
* 2½–3 tbsps. of flour
* ½ pt. sweet or sour cream
* Bouillon or water
* ½ pt. champignons
* 6 sliced truffles
* ½ cup champignon juice
* 1 wineglassful of Madeira or white wine
* Salt
* 1 pinch of white pepper
* Some lemon juice
Preparation: The chickens are dressed and washed, fried light brown in ¼ lb. of butter, and, when well done, carved.
​For the gravy, stir into the drippings the flour, water or bouillon, cream, wine, champignons, juice and cook well. The gravy ought to be quite thick and light yellow, strain and season it with lemon juice, salt, if necessary, some pepper, and put in the whole champignons and the sliced truffles.
The chicken should be so carved that the meat will not fall from the bones and should be kept very hot. Put the meat on a platter and pour the gravy over it. Garnish the rim with puff-paste scallops and small meat dumplings.
The dumplings are made by chopping the chicken liver, heart and gizzard, mixing it well with ½ soaked roll, salt, pepper, 1 egg, ½ teaspoonful of lemon juice. Fry the mixture in 1 tablespoonful of butter; when cool, form small dumplings and fry them a light brown in very little butter. This is a very fine dish.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 3 young, fresh chickens
* Salt
* ⅛ lb. of flour
* 2½ cups of bread crumbs
* 3 lbs. of lard for frying
* 1 lemon for garnishing
* 1–2 eggs
Preparation: The chickens are killed, dressed, washed, dried and prepared at once. Cut the chickens in half, salt them, dip them first into flour, then in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs. The lard is heated in an iron pot or kettle and the pieces of chicken placed into it carefully, one at a time, so as not to cool the fat too much and that the crumbs may not fall off. Bake them to a nice brown color. After the crust is hard, let them cook more slowly until well done. Then put on paper to drain, strew fine salt over the pieces and put on a platter after which they may be garnished with lemon slices.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 3 young chickens or
* 6 young pigeons
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* 2 eggs
* Some flour
* 1½ cups of roll crumbs
* Lemon
* ¼ lb. of butter
Preparation: The birds are dressed, washed and skinned. Each breast is quartered and pounded a little, on each piece fasten a scraped wingbone and season with salt and pepper.
​Beat the egg well with 1½ tablespoonfuls of drawn butter, dip in the cutlets and then into roll crumbs, mixed with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, then fry in butter 8 to 10 minutes, turning them often. With asparagus these poultry cutlets are very fine.
Remarks: The scraps of poultry may be utilized for soup, croquettes or fricassee
Quantity for 6-8 Persons.
* 2 young chickens
* ¾ lb. of veal steak
* ½ lb. of boiled ham
* 2 tbsps, of chopped parsley
* 3 hard boiled eggs
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* 1 pt. of water or bouillon
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* 1 tbsp. of butter
Preparation: The paste is made the same as the chicken pie in No. 6.
The chickens are prepared as in No. 6, the meat removed from the bones and cut into ¼ inch slices, the ham and veal too. The baking-dish is lined with the paste and filled with alternate layers of meat, salted and peppered, chopped parsley and champignons and the yolks of eggs put in whole.
The tablespoonful of butter and 2 of flour are browned a little, broth or water added, stewed, and this poured over the meat. Cover with the paste as described in No. 6, then bake in the the oven slowly for 1¾ hours. The pie may be eaten cold. Use no flour for the gravy, but clear broth.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 4 pigeons
* ¾ lb. of beefsteak
* 6 hard boiled eggs, the yolks only
* ¼ pt. finely chopped champignons
* ¼ lb. of butter
* 1½ tbsps. of flour
* ¾ pt. of bouillon
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* 2 tbsps. of finely chopped parsley
* ¼ onion
Prepare the pie-crust as described in No. 6. See Chicken Pie.
Preparation: The pigeons are dressed, washed and fried in the butter for 12 hour, then cut in halves. Fry the steak, which has been cut into small pieces and the fat taken off, in the same butter for 10 minutes. Prepare a baking-dish with the crust as described in No. 6, put in the meat, salted and ​peppered, parsley and champignons and place the yolks of eggs here and there between the meat. Slice the ¼ onion and brown together with the flour in the drippings, add the bouillon, stew, strain and pour over the meat, then cover with crust according to No. 6 and bake in the oven 1¼ hours.
Remarks: For the crust, use butter only.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 6 young pigeons
* ¼ lb. of butter
* 1 cup of cream
* ½ cup of water
* 1 tbsp. of flour
Preparation: The pigeons are dressed, washed, salted inside and outside. Heat the butter and fry the pigeons light brown on every side, basting with spoonfuls of water and cream. During the last ten minutes stir in the flour and add some more water if necessary, strain the gravy. On the stove it requires 1½ hours to fry the pigeons, to roast in the oven only one hour.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 6 young pigeons
* ¼ lb. of butter
* ½ cup of cream
* 1 cup of water
* 1 tbsp. of flour.
* 2 soaked rolls
* Chopped heart, liver, gizsard
* 1 tbsp. of butter
* 2 eggs
* ¼ pt. finely chopped champignons
* 4 truffles, chopped
* Salt, pepper
* 1 tsp. of chopped parsley.
Preparation: The pigeons are dressed, washed and salted inside and outside.
The stuffing is made by mixing well the chopped liver, heart and gizzard from which the inner membrane has been removed with all the other ingredients. Stuff the pigeons with it, sew them up and fry them as stated in No. 15; prepare the gravy likewise.
Remarks: You may make the stuffing more simply by omitting the champignons and truffles.
* 4 pigeons
* 3 soaked rolls
* ½ cup of ground almonds
* ½ cup of dried currants
* 2 eggs
* 3 tbsps. of sugar
* 1 pinch of salt
* ⅛ lb. of butter
Preparation: The butter is melted, and the soaked rolls ​stirred in and sautéed or dry fried. The almonds are scalded, skinned and ground and added with the rest of the ingredients. The pigeons are stuffed and prepared same as in No. 15.
Quantity for 10–15 Persons.
* 1 turkey weighing 8 to 10 pounds
* ½ lb. of butter
* Salt
* 1 cup of cream
* 2 cups of water
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* 1 pinch of white pepper
Preparation: The turkey is dressed and soaked in cold water 30 minutes, then dried and seasoned with pepper and salt inside and outside. The butter is placed in bits on the turkey and if it is a young turkey, roast it in the oven 2 hours, basting frequently with cream and water.
For the gravy, brown the flour in the drippings, add water, cook, strain and serve with the turkey.
If the turkey is older it will require 3 hours to cook it well, and it is best to cover it so it will not get too brown. To prevent the butter from getting too dark, add water from time to time.
Remarks: The leavings may be utilized in many ways. Turkey ragout in shells, see No. 8 for Chicken ragout in shells; Turkey croquettes, see No. 31 or No. 30, Chapter 3, Veal and veal sweetbread croquettes; Turkey pie, see No. 7, Chicken pie. The bones make a good soup.
Quantity for 10–15 Persons.
* 3 soaked rolls
* Chopped liver, heart and gizzard
* Salt, pepper
* 2 tbsps. of butter
* 1 tbsp. of chopped parsley
* 1 tsp. of lemon juice
Preparation: Mix these ingredients well, stuff the turkey with the mixture and roast as directed in No. 18. Prepare the gravy the same as in No. 18.
The young goose or gosling has a soft gullet, a pale yellow bill and feet with pointed claws. The bill and feet of old geese are reddish yellow. The color of the skin must be white, not purple or blue.
The time for fat geese is from October to January.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 1 young goose
* Salt
* 6 pepper-corns
* ⅛ lb. of butter
* ½ onion, sliced
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* 1 pt. cold water
Preparation: The goose is cleaned and dressed. The wings, neck, head and feet chopped off. The fat is trimmed off, even from the bowels, and is soaked in water separately from the meat. The goose is washed and left to soak in cold water for 15 minutes, then dried and rubbed with salt inside and outside. Put it into the oven with 1 pt. of water, sliced onion and pepper-corns. When the water is boiled down pretty much, baste the goose frequently with browned butter. A young goose will be done in 1½ hours. It should be of a light brown color and very crisp. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of cold water over it to make it crisp.
Now prepare the gravy by stirring the flour into the drippings, cook it a few minutes and add water. Cook well, strain and serve with the goose.
Quantity for 7–9 Persons.
* 1 goose, 7 to 8 lbs.
* Salt
* ½ sliced onion
* 1½ pts. of water
* 6 pepper-corns
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* Some water
* 1½ lbs. peeled, quartered apples
* ½ cup currants
Preparation: The goose is prepared as described in the previous number, washed and salted inside and outside.
The prepared apples are mixed well with the currants and stuffed into the goose, which is then sewed up. The goose is put into the oven in a covered roasting pan with the water, sliced onion and pepper-corns, and roasted for 1 hour. After that time, remove the cover, baste with the drippings every 10 to 15 minutes, and if the water boils down, add spoonfuls of it so the fat will not get too brown. It may require from 2 to 3 hours roasting before the goose is well done and crisp. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of cold water over the skin to make it more crisp. Then serve.
​For the gravy, pour off nearly all of the grease and prepare as described in No. 20. If there is very much grease from the goose, skim some of it off while roasting.
Quantity for 7–9 Persons.
* 2 lbs. of chestnuts, the liver
* 1 pinch of salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* 3 tbsps. of butter
* 1 tsp. of sugar
* Some water
Preparation: The preparation and ingredients for goose and gravy are the same as in No. 21. The chestnuts are put into the oven; when the shells burst take them out, peel them at once and chop them fine. Put them into a ketle over the fire with water, butter, 1 pinch of salt and 1 of pepper and sugar and cook until well done, then put in the chopped goose liver, stuff the goose with this mixture and sew it up. Prepare the roast and gravy as directed in No. 21.
Quantity for 7–9 Persons.
* 1 goose liver
* ½ pt. milk and water
* 1 egg
* Some flour
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* 1 piece of butter for frying
* ¼ cup of goose gravy or
* ¼ tablespoonful of flour mixed with broth
Preparation: Carefully remove the gall from the liver and put the liver into milk diluted with water for 2 hours, dry it well, salt and pepper, dip into beaten egg, then into flour. Heat the butter and fry the liver 5 minutes to a light brown, turning it several times. Serve on a hot platter. For the gravy, brown ¼ tablespoonful of flour in the butter, add broth or water, cook well and serve with the liver.
Quantity for 2–3 Persons.
* From one goose the heart, gizzard, head, wings, feet and neck
* 1 qt. of water
* Salt
* 4 pepper-corns
* 2 cloves
* 1 bay-leaf
* ½ onion, sliced
* 2 tbsps. of butter
* 3 tbsps. of flour
* Bouillon
* 1 yolk of egg
For the gravy, melt the butter, stir in the flour, cook and add the goose broth. The gravy must be smooth; stir into it one yolk of egg and pour it on the giblets. Serve in a deep dish.
Fresh, peeled potatoes are good with it.
Remarks: You may also utilize these goose giblets for soup and put in small potatoes.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 3 large goose livers
* ¾ lb. veal
* ¾ lb. fat pork
* 6 truffles
* 1½ lemon
* ⅛ lb. of butter
* ⅔ pt. of bouillon
* 2 tbsps. of Madeira or red wine
* Salt, pepper
* 3 yolks of eggs
* 1 tsp. of grated onion
* Bacon slices to line the pan
* 4 tbsps. of flour
Preparation: Two of the goose livers are larded with oblong slices of peeled truffles. Drip the juice from 1½ lemons on the livers and let stand for several hours.
The ⅛ lb. of butter is heated, mixed with the flour, salt and pepper and ¾ pt. of broth and Madeira added. The finely chopped or ground veal and pork are stirred into the thick gravy. The one goose liver is chopped, fried 2 minutes in 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and the onion, salted and peppered and mixed into the filling. Fill all this into a deep baking pan or mold lined with bacon slices so that it makes 2 to 3 layers of stuffing, alternating with slices of goose liver. Cover with slices of bacon, set in steamer over a kettle of boiling water and boil for 1½ hours or bake in oven for 1 hour.
A truffle or Madeira gravy may be served with it.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 3 large goose livers
* ¼ lb. of bacon
* 3 tbsps. of butter
* 3 rolls soaked in milk
* ¼ onion
* 3 eggs
* 3 tbsps. grated Parmesan cheese
* 3 tbsps. of cream
* Salt, pepper
* Butter for the mold
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 1 wild, young goose
* 8 large, sour apples
* 2 tbsps. of butter
* 1 pinch of salt and pepper
* 3 large onions
* ⅛ lb. of butter
* Some water
* Some slices of bacon
* 1½ tbsps. of flour
* 1 cup of broth
Preparation: Wild geese are usually very tough, therefore take a young goose only. Clean and dress it well, let it soak in water for ½ hour, dry it and salt it inside and outside.
The filling or stuffing is made by heating the butter, chopping the scalded onion and put into the butter together with the peeled and sliced apples, cut into ⅛ths. Let these cook half done, then add 1 pinch of white pepper, salt and 2 pulverized cloves, fill the goose with this and sew it up.
Tie the slices of bacon across the breast of the goose and put into the oven with the water and ⅛ lb. of butter, basting it frequently. When the gravy gets too brown add more water. After it is well cooked, take off the string and bacon and serve it.
The Gravy: Stir some flour into the broth, add water or more broth, cook a few minutes, strain and serve.
* The breast of one goose
* ⅜ lb. of salt
* 1 tsp. of saltpetre
* 1 tbsp. of sugar
Preparation: The breast is cut from an undressed goose. Cut off the legs and the meat off the breast down to the bone. Be careful not to injure the outer skin. The small fillets are separated from the breast and it is rubbed well with ½ the ​quantity of salt, which has been mixed with the saltpetre and sugar until it dissolves. Replace the small fillets after salting them also, fold and sew up the breast. Salt it well on the outside and place into a crock for 7 days, turning it twice a day and basting it well with the brine that collects. On the eighth day wrap in paper, place it between two boards, well weighted, and draw a string through the top end of fat and skin by which to hang it up. Hang it into a smoke house in medium smoke for 8 to 10 days. Then place again between two boards weighted down for a few days. By this process the fat becomes white and hard and the meat keeps better.
When the duck is 6 months old it makes the finest roast, but you may roast it up to a year old. The best time for duck is from August to the beginning of December.
Quantity for 6–8 Persons.
* 2 ducks
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* Some butter for roasting
* 10–12 sweet-sour apples
* 1 cup currants
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* 1½ cups of water
Preparation: The duck is dressed, neck, wings and feet cut off and it is washed, dried and salted inside and outside. The apples are peeled, quartered, mixed well with the currants, filled into the duck and this sewed up. Put it into a pan with the water, 2 tbsps. butter, and roast for 1½ hours, basting frequently.
For the Gravy: If there is too much grease, pour some of it off, stir in the flour, brown it a little, add water, cook well, strain and serve with the duck.
Quantity for 6–8 Persons.
* 2 ducks
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* 2 tbsps. of butter for roast
* Chopped heart, liver and gizzard
* 3 rolls, soaked
* 3 eggs
* 1 tbsp. of finely chopped parsley
* 1 tbsp. of lemon juice
* Salt, pepper
* ½ onion chopped finely
* 1 tbsp. of butter
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* 1½ cups of water
Preparation: The ducks are dressed after cutting off ​neck, wings and feet, then washed and salted and strewn with 1 pinch of pepper inside and outside.
The stuffing is made of chopped liver, heart, gizzard, mixed with all the other ingredients and put into the ducks, which are then sewed up and treated just the same as described in No. 29.
Prepare the gravy as given in No. 29.
This is prepared the same as described in No. 23.
Quantity for 4 Persons.
* Giblets of 1 goose or duck
* Salt
* ¼ lb. prunes
* ¼ cup of sugar
* 1 small stick of cinnamon
* ½ lb. of peeled apples or pears
* 2 cloves
* 4 pepper-corns
* Scant 1 pt. of goose or duck blood
* 1½ tbsps. of vinegar
* 1½ qts. of water
* 2 tbsps. of flour
Preparation: Neck, head, feet, wings, heart and gizzard are cleaned well and cooked until tender in 1 qt. of water with salt, pepper and 2 cloves. The prunes and quartered apples or pears are cooked until done in 12 qt. of water. The blood is stirred with the flour into ½ of the broth from the giblets and poured back on again. The chopped fruit added, then seasoned with vinegar and sugar and brought to boil, stirring constantly. It must not coagulate.
THE GAME BIRDS.
One can recognize the young bird by its less developed spurs and flexible bones. The pheasant may become 5 to 10 years old. Freshly shot pheasants are not good to eat because the meat is dry and hard. In winter the bird may be left hanging with its feathers for 2 to 3 weeks.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 1 pheasant
* Salt
* ⅛ lb. of butter
* 2 thin slices of bacon to tie across the breast
* 1½ tbsps. of flour
* 1 cup of water
* ½ pt. sweet or sour cream
Preparation: The young pheasant is dressed, carefully washed and dried, then salted inside and outside and the liver put back into the bird with a piece of butter. The slices of bacon are tied across the breast.
Put the pheasant into the oven with ⅛ lb. of butter, baste it frequently and roast to a golden yellow. After 30 minutes, baste frequently with the cream and water by spoonfuls. It will require 1 to 1½ hours to cook it well done. Before serving, remove the bacon slices.
Into the drippings stir the flour, brown it, if necessary add more water, cook and strain and serve the gravy with the bird.
The preparation is just the same as the one under No. 33, with the exception that it requires from 2½ to 3 hours to cook the bird well done, therefore take a little more cream and water for basting and cover the roasting pan during part of the time to keep the bird from getting too dark.
Quantity for 6-8 Persons.
* ½ lb. roasted pheasant meat
* 3 tbsps. of butter
* 3 tbsps. of flour
* Pheasant broth from bones
* ½ wineglassful of white wine
* 3 chopped truffles
* ½ cup of chopped champignons
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* Some butter for the molds
* 2 eggs
Preparation: The skin is removed from the meat. The meat, truffles and champignons are chopped fine. The bones are put on the fire with 2 qts of water, salt, a small piece of onion and boiled down to ½ qt. of bouillon. Then the gravy is made by heating the 3 tablespoonfuls of butter and the same quantity of flour stirred in to brown, ½ qt. of bouillon added and cooked. Season with salt and pepper, add white wine, meat, truffles and champignons and stir in the 2 yolks of eggs. Beat the whites of eggs and stir lightly into the mixture. ​When this is done, fill the shells or buttered molds with the filling and bake in the oven to a nice brown color.
Remarks: Truffles and champignons may be omitted.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 1 pheasant
* Broth cooked from neck, wings, gizzard, liver, heart
* 1 large onion, sliced
* 6 pepper-corns
* 1 small carrot, sliced
* Salt
* 2–3 wineglassfuls of white wine or sherry
* 3 tbsps. of butter
* 3 tbsps. of flour
* 3 tomatoes, sliced
* 2 bay-leaves
Preparation: The pheasant is cleaned, dressed, put into a stewpot with 3 tablespoonfuls of butter, fried a little on all sides, the flour stirred in and then enough broth added to cover the bird. Put in the rest of the ingredients named above and roast slowly in the oven for 2 to 2½ hours.
Strain the gravy through a fine sieve and serve with the pheasant.
Quantity for 8–10 Persons.
* 2 young pheasants
* ⅛ lb. of butter
* Salt
* 1½ qts. broth from bones
* ½ wineglassful of Madeira
* Juice of ⅛ lemon
* ⅛ pt. of champignons
* 1 small can of truffles
* Liver, heart, gizzard, chopped fine
* 2½ soaked rolls
* 3 eggs
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* 1 tbsp. of butter
* 1 tsp. of chopped onion
Preparation: The pheasants are cleaned, dressed and fried in oven for 20 minutes with ⅛ lb. of butter. The meat is then removed from the bones and a good qt. of broth is made from the latter, seasoned with Madeira, salt, lemon juice. The champignons are quartered and the truffles sliced; liver, heart, gizzard chopped fine, the rolls, salt, pepper, and yolk of egg stirred in. The onions are cooked a little in the drippings and the whole mixture added and stewed a little while. The whites of eggs are beaten and stirred into the mixture after it has cooled. Now butter your dish and put in one-half of the giblet filling as the bottom layer, then one layer of meat, then champignons and truffles, and so on until all the meat, champignons and truffles have been used. The broth is poured over the whole, the other half of the giblet filling put on the top and it is now baked in the oven for 1¼ hours. Serve it in the dish or casserole.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 3 red grouse or 3 guinea hens
* ⅛ lb. of butter
* Salt
* ½ pt. of cream
* 1½ tbsps. of flour
* 1 cupful of water
* Bacon slices to tie across the breast
Preparation: The preparation is the same as No. 33, Pheasant. It also requires 1 to 1½ hours for cooking.
Remarks: Grouse gets very tender when kept in buttermilk over night.
Quantity for 14 Persons.
* 3 red grouse
* Buttermilk
* ⅛ lb. of butter
* Salt
* ¾ lb. beef with bones
* ¾ lb. lean pork
* 1 small can of truffles
* 1 pt. can champignons
* 5 soaked rolls
* 4 eggs
* 3 tbsps. of butter
* Juice of ½ lemon
* 1 tsp. of grated onions
* 1 glass Madeira
* Salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
Preparation: The grouse must be well hung; dress, salt and bake in hot oven with ⅛ lb. of butter for one hour, basting frequently. If buttermilk is to be obtained, put the grouse in buttermilk for 24 hours before baking. After frying, cut off the breasts and divide them into ⅛ths. The other meat is cut from the bones and chopped fine, also the beef and pork. The soaked rolls are sautéed or dry fried in 3 tablespoonfuls of butter and 4 eggs stirred into them. Now add grouse meat, beef, pork, salt, pepper, juice of ½ lemon, 1 wineglassful of Madeira, 1 teaspoonful of grated onion and mix well. The bones of the birds and beef are put on the fire with the champignon and truffle juice and boiled down to ½ qt. of broth, half of which is stirred into the filling.
Butter your dish or casserole and after lining it with paste, put in a layer of filling, then one of meat, strewing on some chopped champignons and truffles. Pour in the other ½ of the broth, cover with paste and bake in oven 1¼ hours to a nice brown color. Serve with a Madeira gravy.
The paste is made by mixing lightly ¼ lb. of flour with ¼ lb. of cold butter, ½ glassful of cold water and 1 teaspoonful of brandy, then rolled out.
Remarks: These pies may be made of pheasants, heath cocks or hazel hens, snow hens, snipes, quails and partridges.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 6 young partridges
* Salt
* Bacon slices
* ¼ lb. of butter
* ½ pt. sour cream
* 1 tbsp. flour
* Some water
Preparation: After the birds have been cleaned, singed, dressed, wiped out and salted, tie the bacon slices around them, put them into a pan, pour on the hot butter and fry them for ½ hour, basting frequently and adding the cream by spoonfuls. When well done, take off the bacon and serve with the following gravy. In the drippings, brown 1 tablespoonful of flour, add a little water if necessary, cook, strain and serve. A little white wine may be added to the gravy.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 2 young partridges
* 1½ lbs. of sauerkraut
* 2 tbsps. of butter
* 2 thin slices of bacon
* 1 wineglassful of white wine
* Water for the sauerkraut
* 1 tbsp. of flour
* 1 apple
Preparation: The partridges are cleaned, singed, dressed and wiped out, bacon slices tied on and fried in 2 tablespoonfuls of butter for 15 minutes. If the sauerkraut is too sour, soak it in water a while, drain, then put it on the stove with the partridges and a little water, white wine, sliced apple, cover and stew slowly for 2 hours. When the birds are tender, take off the bacon, stir a little flour into the sauerkraut; cook for a few minutes and serve with the birds.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 3 young partridges
* 1 pint champignons
* 1 piece of bacon for larding
* ½ lb. goose liver or
* Calf sweetbreads
* Salt
* 3 tbsps. of butter
* 3 tbsps. of flour
* Broth from the bones
* 3 tbsps. of red wine
* 3 tbsps. of Madeira
* 1 tsp. of meat extract
* The champignon juice
* 3 pepper-corns
* Salt
* 1 pinch of sugar
* Heart, liver, gizzard, some meat from the bones
* 1 soaked roll
* 2 eggs
* Salt, pepper
* Some butter to fry the dumplings
* A few slices of toasted wheat bread
* 1 tbsp. of butter
To make the dumplings, chop the liver, heart, gizzard and meat from the bones very fine and mix well with the soaked roll, one egg, butter, salt, pepper, some chopped champignons and shape into dumplings. Fry these light brown in butter or cook 10 minutes in broth.
Toast the wheat bread slices, cut each partridge breast into 4 pieces, also the goose liver or sweetbreads. Place the toast on a hot platter, then on this the meat, breast, legs and the goose liver or sweetbreads. Put the champignons into the gravy and pour hot over the meat. Garnish the dish with the dumplings.
This ragout may be made of capon, quail, hazel hen, snow hen, pheasant or snipe.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 12 blackbirds
* ¼ lb. of butter
* 1 pinch of salt
* 1 pinch of pepper
* ½ tbsp. of flour
* ½ tbsp. of white wine
* ½ cup of water or broth
* 6 juniper berries
* The intestines of the birds
* 2½ rolls
* ½ tsp. of lemon juice
* Some salt and pepper
* 2 tbsps. of butter
Preparation: The blackbirds must be fresh. They are cleaned, the head skinned, the eyes taken out and bill and claws chopped off a bit. The legs are turned inward, the right foot stuck through the eye sockets and the claws joined. The intestines are taken out and the gizzard removed. Juniper berries and the cleaned intestines are chopped fine, seasoned with salt, pepper, ½ teaspoonful of lemon juice and 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. This stuffing is put into the birds and the ​openings closed, fastening with toothpicks. They are then closely packed into a pan and the browned hot butter poured on, seasoned with more salt, pepper and 5 pulverized juniper berries, then fried 15 minutes, turning them over several times. The rolls are sliced and toasted, placed on a platter and the birds arranged neatly on the toast after removing the toothpicks. For the gravy, brown ½ tablespoonful of flour in the drippings, add water, wine, cook, strain and serve with the birds.
You may drip some gravy on the toasted roll slices to make them more palatable.
These birds are prepared just like the blackbirds in No. 43. The intestines may also be used for the filling.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 3 snipes
* ¼ lb. of butter
* Salt, pepper
* ½ tbsp. of flour
* 1½ toasted rolls
* Some broth
* Bacon slices to tie around them
Preparation: The snipes are prepared the same as the blackbirds or larks in No. 43 and No. 44. The gizzard is removed, the bacon slices are tied around the birds, after salting and peppering inside and outside; then fry them in butter for 20 minutes and serve them on the toast which has been soaked with some of the gravy.
For the gravy, stir 2 tablespoonful of flour into the drippings, add broth, cook, strain and serve with the birds. These are garnished with snipe on toast made from the intestines.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* Intestines from the 3 birds with the gizzard removed
* 1½ tbsps. of butter
* 1 yolk of egg
* 1½ tbsps. of red wine
* 1 tsp. of chopped capers
* Salt, pepper
* A few drops of lemon juice
* ¼ cup of bread crumbs
* 2½ rolls, sliced
* Some butter
* 1 tbsp. Parmesan cheese
Preparation: The cleaned intestines are chopped and mixed well with butter, yolk of egg, red wine, parsley, capers, salt, pepper, bread crumbs and lemon juice. Cut the rolls in slices ½ inch thick, cut off the crust, toast them and put the above stuffing on thick, sprinkle some Parmesan cheese over and drip melted butter on, then bake them in the oven for 5 minutes and place around the fried snipes.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 1 woodcock
* ¼ lb. of butter
* ⅛ lb. of bacon for larding
* Salt
* ¾ qt. of sour cream
* ½ pt. of bouillon or broth
Preparation: The woodcock may hang 5 days before being cooked. Skin, dress and pound it, wash and dry it well and salt it inside and outside, then lard with bacon. The woodcock is fried in the butter, the cream and broth are poured on gradually and the bird stewed for 2 hours, basting frequently. By this time the gravy will be boiled down and smooth, strain it and serve with the bird.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 1 woodcock or hen
* 1 bottle of red wine
* 1 bottle wine vinegar
* 3 bay-leaves
* 10 pepper-corns
* 7 cloves
* 1 onion, sliced
* 1 carrot, sliced
* A little thyme
* Bacon slices
* ⅛ lb. of butter
* Salt
* 1 pt. sour cream
* 1 pt. bouillon
Preparation: The woodcock is cleaned, dressed, tied, pressed into a jar and the bottle of red wine is emptied into this. The vinegar is boiled together with bay-leaves, peppercorns, cloves, onion, carrot, thyme and when cooled, also poured on the bird; in this it remains 2 to 3 days.
After this time the bird is taken out, dried, rubbed with salt, bacon slices tied around it, fried in the butter, and stewed for 2 hours, basting frequently with cream and bouillon. The gravy is strained, the bacon slices are taken off the bird. It is served on a platter, some gravy poured over the bird and the rest served separately.
Remarks: You may serve a Madeira or pickle gravy with it.
Quantity for 6–8 Persons.
* 2 young, wild ducks
* 1 pt. water
* ⅛ lb. of butter
* Bacon slices
* 2 cloves
* 1 bay-leaf
* 1 onion, sliced
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* 1 wineglassful of red wine
* Salt
* 6 pepper-corns
Preparation: The ducks are picked, singed, dressed, washed and skinned, salted inside and outside and tied into ​bacon slices. The prepared ducks are put into a stewpot over the fire with 1 pt. of water, onion, cloves, pepper-corns, bay- leaves. Cover and stew. When the water is boiled down, pour the ⅛ lb. of hot butter over them and add a little water or broth so that the butter may not get too brown, also add the red wine. 15 minutes before they are done, stir in the flour, add more broth or water if necessary and cook. The ducks should be of a nice golden brown color. Serve them with the strained gravy.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 1 capon
* Salt
* ¼ lb. of butter
* Bacon for larding
* 1 tbsp. of flour
* 1 tbsp. of wine
Preparation: The capon is picked, dressed, the breast and drum sticks larded with bacon, and the bird salted inside and outside. Then the hot butter is poured over it and roasted 1 hours until done, basting frequently with cream.
For the gravy, brown the flour in the drippings, add the wine, and broth or water, cook, strain and serve with the bird.
May be made from the capon. Prepare it just the same as described in No. 42, Fine Partridge Ragout.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 1 capon
* Salt
* 6 pepper-corns
* 2 onions, sliced
* ⅛ of a celery
* ½ carrot, sliced
* 1 clove
* 1 wineglassful of red wine
* 1 tsp. of lemon juice
* 1 tsp. of sugar
* ½ pt. champignons
* Some bouillon or water
* ⅛ lb. of butter
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* 1 bay-leaf
Preparation: The capon is prepared well and tied into bacon slices, then fried in ⅛ lb. butter for ½ hour.
For the gravy, stir in the flour, fill up with bouillon or water mixed with a teaspoonful of meat extract and the rest of the ingredients and in this gravy stew the capon 45 minutes to 1 hour, basting and turning it frequently. Serve the capon ​and strain the gravy. Quarter the champignons and put them into the gravy. Pour in the champignon juice while stewing.
Remarks: You can take oysters instead of champignons, allowing 3 or 4 to each person. Before serving the bird, remove bacon and strings.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 3 grouse
* 8 tbsps. thick, sweet cream
* Some salt
* 1—2 eggs
* 1½ cups of roll crumbs
* ⅛ lb. of butter, good measure
* ½ cup of flour
Preparation: The grouse or other poultry is cleaned well and the meat removed from the bones while raw. Chop the meat and remove skin and tendons. Mix with the cream and salt. Shape into cutlets 1½ inches thick, dip into flour, then into the well beaten egg and finally into the bread crumbs. Stick small bones into the cutlets and fry in butter to a nice color. These cutlets are very good served with vegetables.
Remarks: These cutlets may be made from all fine game birds, i e., partridge, pheasant, hazel hen, snow hen; also from chicken.
From the bones you can make soup, which will be better if the bones have been fried in butter and soupgreens a little while.
Quantity for 6—8 Persons.
* 1 poulard
* Salt
* ¼ lb. of butter
* Bacon slices to tie over the breast
* ½ pt. sweet or sour cream
* 1 tsp. of lemon juice
* 2 tbsps. of flour
* 1 cup of water
Preparation: The Poulard or French pheasant is cleaned, dressed, washed, dried and salted inside and outside. Bacon slices are tied over the breast and drum sticks. Roast in hot butter, adding the water, for 1 to 1½ hours, a piece of butter being put inside the bird also. Baste frequently with water and cream. It should be roasted to a nice golden brown color.
Serve on a hot platter after taking off the bacon and strings.
Into the drippings stir some flour, water or cream if necessary, the lemon juice, cook, strain and serve with the bird. The gravy should be smooth and of a light brown color.
Quantity for 6—8 Persons.
Prepare like recipe No. 10, Chicken Fricassee. It will make a very fine side-dish.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
* 1 duck
* 1 tbsp. of butter
* 1 cup of water
* Salt
* 2 tbsps. of butter
* 2 tbsps. of duck grease
* 2¼ tbsps. of flour
* 1½ pts. of bouillon or water
* Duck stock
* ½ cup of champignon juice
* Salt
* 6 pepper-corns
* 3 sprays of parsley
* 2 cloves
* ¼ pt. of port wine
* Juice of ½ lemon
* 3 truffles
* ½ pt. champignons
Preparation: The duck is cleaned, dressed, washed, salted and fried 1½ to 2 hours, in 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 cup of water, basting frequently.
For the gravy, brown the flour in the 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, add the duck stock and cook a little while; then add the bouillon, red wine or port wine, champignon juice, lemon juice, salt, pepper-corns, cloves, parsley and truffle parings. Cook the gravy for 15–30 minutes, strain through a fine sieve. Cut the champignons in half and put them into the strained gravy. Carve the duck and put it into the gravy too and steep another 15 minutes. Heap the ragout in the middle of a hot platter. Put the peeled truffles which were fried in 1 teaspoonful of butter for 2 minutes, over the ragout. Garnish with puff paste scallops, (see preparation in No. 29, Chapter 3, Puff-paste Patties with Veal Ragout), and with dumplings. These are made by chopping very fine the heart, gizzard and liver, mixed well with one soaked roll, one egg, 1 tablespoonful of chopped champignons, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 pinch of salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Sauté or dry fry (which means cooking food in a small amount of fat) in ½ tablespoonful of butter and add ½ grated roll. Then form small dumplings from this mixture and fry them to a light brown in butter or duck grease.
Remarks: This duck ragout is a very fine side-dish.