# A Glimpse at Guatemala/Index

INDEX.
ACACIA trees, 109.
Acalá, 245, 252.
Altars, ancient
Acapulco, Port of, 5.
Acatenango, Peak of, 39
Achiote, 94.
Agave rigida, 197.
Agua, Volcano, see Volcan.
Agua Blanca, 89.
Aguacate fruit, or alligator pears, 10, 58.
Aguardiente made at San Gerónimo, 107.
Ak at 'eib, building, Chichén Itzá, 203.
Alcaldes, engage carriers, 21, 105; their dress described, 23.
Alcaldes, of Antigua, 31.
———— at Belehú, 87, 88,
———— Cachapa, 115.
———— Chiehé, 106.
———— Coban, 105.
———— Comitan, 115.
———— Copan, 139.
———— Godines, 46.
———— Ixkun, 174.
———— San Antonio, 54.
———— San Luis, 173.
———— Uspantan, 83.
Alguacils of Belehú, 88.
Alligator meat as Lenten fare, 41.
Alligators, near Yaxché, 181, in the Rio Makál, 185, in the Rio Usumacinta, 215, at Monte Cristo, 216-17.
Almolonga Plain, 25.
Alotenango, 37, 40.
Alotepeque Mines, 49.
Alta Vera Paz, tableland, 89.
Altars, ancient and modern, at Belehú, 87, 88, at Campeche, 195, at Chichén Itzá, 207, at Coban, 92, at Copan, 116, 118, in Ermitas, 158, at Quirigua, 149, at Rabinal, 103, in Stephen's house, 201, at Uspantan, 85, at Utatlan, 67.
Altos, the, cultivation in, 44, journey across, 71, exhilarating atmosphere on, 86, 89, pine-trees of, 116.
Alvarado, Dona Beatrix, the unfortunate, widow of Pedro Alvarado, elected governor of Santiago, 25, her death, 26.
———— Pedro de, founder of Santiago city, 25, his expedition to Peru and death, ib., his expedition to Guatemala, 60-66.
Alvarez, Saturnina, her kindness to men and animals, 190.
Amatitlan, Lake of, 8, 35.
American Archæology, 272.
———— work among the ruins of Copan, 142.
Angulo, Pedro de, Dominican missionary, 96, his journey through Tuzulutlan, 98.
Animals:—
Bats, 48, 78.
Dogs, Maya, kept for eating, 251.
dogs„ modern Indian, 79, 230-7.
Gophers (Geomys hispidius), 33.
Jaguars, skulls of, 236.
Monkey, a pet, 179-81.
Monkeys, howling, or Monos (Myectes villosus), 145, 147, 148.
Mules, 15, 16.
Pigs, Indian, 79.
Tapirs, 184. ​Aniseed, 51.
Anonas, 10.
Antigua, (see Ciudad Vieja, Guatemala, and Santiago), coffee-plantations near, 23, the Hotel Rojas at, 24, Alvarado and his wife associated with, 25, ruined by floods, 25-6, rebuilt, and destroyed by earthquakes, 26; at present day, 27, bees of, ib., cochineal trade of, replaced by coffee-culture, ib., Fiesta de Reyes at, 28, Indian costumes seen near, 28-9, charm of the place, 29.
Ants, 109, marching army of, 122; Parasol-ants, curious habits of, 148.
Archers, Maya, mentioned, 67.
Arinchuak, 181.
Arms, absence of, in carvings at Ixkun, 176, and Quirigua, 150, shown at Chichén Itzá, 207, 210
—— used in the present day, 237.
Arrieros and Mule-trains, 23, an uncivil individual, 219.
Astronomical theories as to the use of Maya temples, 234.
Atalaya, Castle, Utatlan, 66.
Atitlan, Lake of, 45, 46, 47, animal life near, 48, native travellers near, ib., attempts to photograph Indians of district, 49, returning pilgrims near, 49, 50, canoes on, and fish in, 57.
Atitlan, Volcano, see Volcan.
Atlatl, Mexican throwing-stick, in sculpture, Chichén Itzá, 207, 210.
Aurora, or yellow-breasted trogon (Trogon caligatus), 120.
Avendaño, Padre Fray Antonio de, his embassy to the Itzá chief at Tayasal, 248-9.
Avila, Gil Gonzales de, lost with his party on the Rio Dulce, 250-1.
BABIES, Indian, 10, 29, 31, 134, 166.
Bacalar, Spanish station at, 189.
Ball Court (Tlachtli) at Chichén Itzá, 204-6, at Rabinal, 104.
Bananas, 3, 4, 7, 8, 10, 23, 31, 76, 78, 108, 118, 156, uses of fibre of, 197.
Baptism the only rite considered vital by Indians, 186.
Barbas de viejo, flower (Bromelia), 58.
Barbasco, 145.
Barlee, Sir Frederick, Governor of British Honduras, 187.
Barrancas, or ravines, near Guatemala city, 8, 12, 17, 22, near Godines, 44, in the Motagua Valley, 76, near Uspantan, 88, near Utatlan, 63, 68.
Barrios, the, or wards of Cohan, how managed, 92.
——, General J. M. Reina, visits Champerico, 7.
——, General J. Rufino, his railway scheme, 173, his death, 133.
——, Puerto, railway from, in construction, 145.
Bats, 48, 78.
Bees, destructive work of, at Antigua, 27.
—— wild, at Quirigua, 147.
Beetles, 122.
Belehú, road to, 86, writer's quarters at, 87, scarcity of water at, 88, no road from, ib., departure from, and crossing of the Chixoy river, 89.
Belize, English merchants of, 49, writer's journey to by land, 187, and by river, 188; town of, and inhabitants described, ib., its history as a British colony, 189; Santa Cruz Indians at, 190, Dr. X. at, 190-2.
—— river, (see also Makál), 181, 182, mangrove-swamp and bridge near, 187, divide in mountains near, 176.
Bennett, Mr., estate of, 107.
Benque Viejo, 181, ruins near, 182.
Bernouilli, Dr., results of his visit to Tikál, 235.
Bignonia (flowers), 23.
'Biologia Centrali-Americana,' 126, 127, 198, 258.
Birds:—
Aurora, or yellow-breasted Trogon (Trogon caligatus), 120.
Blackbirds (Quiscalus), 110, 121.
Cardinal bird, scarlet, 203.
Chocolateras, spoonbills, 216.
Cuckoos, ground, 110.
Divers, 216.
Ducks and coots, 57, 216.
Egrets, 216.
Flycatchers, 110. ​Geese, 67.
Ground-doves, 110.
Guarda-barrancas, 13, 119.
Humming-birds, 110.
Jays, blue and grey, 48, 110, 120.
Macaws (Ara macao), 147.
Mocking-birds or sensontes, 93, 106, 110, 203.
Mot-mots, 110, 121, 203.
Orioles (Icterus), see also Oropendula, 110, 120.
Oropendulas (Ostinops Montezumæ-Waglerii), 120, 147.
Owls, 121.
Parras, 216.
Parroquets, 110, 119.
Parrots, 81, 110, 118, 147.
Partridges, 251.
Pelicans, 4.
Pheasants, 251.
Pito-reales, 93.
Puhuyak, or Night-jar, 121.
Quetzal (Pharomacrus mociuno), 120.
Sensontes, see Mocking-birds, supra.
Spoonbills, see Chocolateras, 216.
Teal, ib.
Toucans (Rhamphastos carinatus), 120.
Turkeys, Peten (Meleagris ocellata), 178.
Whip-poor-will, 48, 121.
Woodpeckers, 110, 121.
Wrens, 110.
Zopilotes (Cathartes atratus), 13, 90, 111, 121.
Blackbirds (Quiscalus), 110, 121.
Black Christ, shrine of, at Esquipulas, festival of, and pilgrims to, 49, 50, 58.
Blancancaux, Mr., 179, 182.
Blockley, Mr., 149, 151.
Blue Mountains, 183.
Boats: Canoes, 57, 193, 236, 239, Cayueos, 239, Doreys, 188, Pit-pans, 186.
Boca del Cerro, 236.
Bogran, General, President of the Republic of Honduras, 128, 129.
Bonacca, landing of Columbus at, 193.
Bottle-brush flowers, 110.
Bowditch, Mr. Charles, 142.
Bows and arrows used by the Mayas, but never found in sculptures, 207, 211.
British Honduras, a journey into, 182, mural painting found in, 122.
———— Governor of, see Barlee.
———— Museum, sculptures presented to, 241.
Bromelias, 92.
Brown seed-necklaces worn by Indians, 236-7.
Brujeria (witchcraft), 49, 135.
Brujo, Indian name for wizard, 172.
Buildings, see Indian.
Burial-places, (see Indian), at Ixkun, 178.
Burnes, Mr., 107.
CABILDOS: of Atitlan, 60, of Belehú, 87, of Copan, 128.
Cacao, (see also Madre de Cacao), first seen by the Spaniards, 194, 251; wild, 217.
Cachapa, 115, 116.
Cachil, Cumbre de, 106.
Cachiquel Indians, (see Quiché Indians), Chronicles of, 61.
Cacique, an Indian, at the court of Charles V., 74.
Caciques of Bonacca, 193, of Sacapulas and Coban, 96-7.
Cacti, 112.
—— Nopal, 27.
—— Organ-pipe, 117.
Cajabon, track from, to Coban mapped, 157, Ermita en route to, 158, hammock bridge near, 159, the Lopez family at (see also Lopez), ib.; the Dutch Padre of, 160-2, the Convento at, ib., forest journey from, 163.
Calabash trees, 237.
Calceolarias, 76.
Calvario, the, at Coban, (ill.), 100.
Camalote, or high reeds, 182-3.
Campeche, 195, landing of Cordova at, and Maya temple of, ib., harbour of, 196, ruins near, and need of further exploration of, 252.
Cancer, Luis, Dominican missionary, his visit to Coban, 99.
Cancuen River, 167-8.
Canna-leaves, use of, 92.
Cannibalism attributed to Englishmen, 157.
Canoes at Santa Catarina, 57, 193, 236, 239.
​Canoes of the Mayas of Bonacca, 193.
Capulin tree, bark of, 113.
Caracol, the, at Chichén Itzá, 203.
Caralampio, son of Gorgonio Lopez, see Lopez.
Cardinal bird, scarlet, 203.
Cargadores, see Indian carriers.
Caribal, or village, of untamed Indians, 236-7.
Caribes, see Lacandon Indians.
Caribs, 236, of Belize, 188-9, 190.
—— of Livingston, their fish-trade, 155.
—— women, pictures of, 192.
Carmen, Isla de, 212.
Carrera, the Dictator, and the priests, 11.
Castillo, the, at Chichén Itzá, 204, 209.
Catherwood, cited on the ruins of Chichén Itzá, 198, of Copan, 127, his plan of buildings at Utatlan, 69.
Catoche, Cape, landing of Cordova at, 195.
Caves, near the Rio Lanquin, 159.
Cayo, El, writer's arrival at, 182, men despatched from, to Tikál, ib., mozos paid off, 185, others become homesick at, 176, boat used at, 186; the stone lintel packed at, 240.
Cedars, 2, 140, 146.
Cedron nut, its uses, 170.
Ceiba tree, 121-2.
Ceniza, La, shooting affray at, 144.
'Cenotes, 196, 203, 207.
——, sacred, at Chichén Itzá, 208, 209.
Centipedes, 23, 122.
Cerro del Carmen, church of, 13, 14.
Chacujál, (see also Pueblo Viejo), ruins at, 104, 248; Cortés's expedition to, 250-1.
Chajmaic River, 167-8.
Chaltunes, or underground cisterns, 235.
Chambon, M., joins writer at Laguna, 215, and at Palenque, 219; dances a Zapateado, 221.
Champerico, port of, 7.
Champoton, landing of Cordova at, 195.
Charles V., and the cacique, 74.
Charms, Indian, against fevers, 59.
—— against Snake-bite, 171.
Charnay, M. Desiré, and his travels, 239-40, his work on Central America and Mexico, ib.
Cheirostemon platanoides tree, 33.
Chiapas, 61, Indians of, 236.
Chicha, an Indian drink, 31.
Chichajác, alleged idols at and search for, 168, 172.
Chiché, village of and mounds at, 75, obsidian knives etc. found at, ib., writer's quarters at, ib., precipitous track from to Uspantan, 76-7, writer's boxes detained at, 106.
Chichén Itzá, (see also Stephens), ruins of, 193, writer's visit to, 199, and quarters in, 200, 202, visited by officials, 200; Mr. Sweet joins writer, 202, arrangement and descriptions of the ruins, 202 et seq.; wall-painting of a human sacrifice found at, 207; difficulties of taking mouldings at, 207-8; Landa cited on the sortilege of the 'cenote at, 208-9; comparison of ruins at with those of Copan and Quirigua, 210; constant difficulties in getting workmen, 200, 211, success of work at, largely due to Mr. Sweet, 244.
Chichicaste trees, or tree-nettles, 72, use of their leaves, 73.
Chichicastenango (Santo Tomas), town of, 72, Indian costumes at, 73, Indian church-function at, ib., funeral procession at, 74.
Chico-sapote wood, 233.
Chilapa, 245.
Chili-peppers, 124, 237, 251.
Chimaltenango, hotel at, 41, hills and plains of, 72.
Chinic village, fruit-culture at, 76.
Chiquimula village, doctor at, 125.
Chixoy River or Rio Negro (q. v.), 87, bridge across, 88-9, 167-8.
Chocolateras (birds), 216.
Chol Indians, missionary effort amongst, 248.
Christmas market, Guatemala city, 10.
Chronicles, the, of the Cachiquel Indians, 61.
Chuaca, old Spanish settlement at, 196.
Chuntuchí, 248, 250.
Churches in Guatemala city, 12.
Chute fern, use made of, 91.
Cicadas, 77.
Ciguatecpan, 245.
Cimientos, or foundation mounds, 169, see Mounds.
Cinder ridge, on Fuego mountain, 40.
'Citas, 198.
Ciudad Vieja near Antigua, the former capital, 24.
​Clergy, celibacy of, past, 99, and present, 25.
Coban, Indians of, 87, 158; bad road to, 90; welcome of Mr. and Mrs. Thomae, ib., cottages and gardens of the natives, 91, their family saints and family settlements, 92, divisions of the town, ib., religious ceremonies at, 93, curious dances at, 94-5; decline of ecclesiastical power in, 94; market at, 95; Spanish missionaries to, 95-99; foreigners in at present time, 99, the Calvario at, ib., track from to Cajabon, mapped, 157.
—— river, 105.
Cochineal trade, formerly the staple of Antigua, 27.
Cockroaches, 123.
Cockscomb Mountains, 183.
Cocoanuts, 10.
Coco-palms, 3, 4, 7, 8, 23, 107, 109.
Coffee bushes, 23, 27, 30, 53, 57, 91, 108.
—— trees, San Cristobal, 89.
Cofradias, the, of Coban, organization of, 92, and suppression, 95.
Colima, Devil-fish at, 5.
"Colima" steamship, wreck of, 3.
Coloradillo insect, 122.
Colorado Casa, Chichén Itzá, 199-202.
Columbus meets the Mayas at Bonacco, 193-4.
Comitan village, Gorgonio's passport demanded at, 115, 198.
Commandante, the, at Monte Cristo, 222.
Cooking at high altitudes, 34-5.
Conventos at Cajabon, 160-2, at San Andrés Sacabajá, 78, at San Gerónimo, 197, at Uspantan, 84.
Copal used in sacrifice, 75, 168-9, 177, 209, 238.
Copan, 61, 70; road to, 105, writer's start for, 114, fording the river, 115; greeted at by the Niña Chica, 116; monumental remains at, 70, 117; writer's quarters at, 117, 118, 128, duties of the party at, 118, 119, birds at, 119-121, vegetation at, 122, insects of, 122, marching army of ants at, 122-3, snakes and wild animals of, 123, villagers, interested and interesting, 124, 125, 134-6, women of, ib., results of writer's work at, published in the 'Biologia Centrali-Americana,' 126-7; imposing plazas at, 126; earliest description of ruins at, 127; necessary outfit for the explorations at, and difficulties of transport, 128; site and condition of ruins at, 129, remains of temples among, 129, 130, calendar glyphs on stela at, 263, carved monoliths at, 70; visit of a general of the Honduras army to, 13, hindrances to work at, 132, generosity of the Niña Chica, ib., precautions against marauders, 133, a case of brujeria or witchcraft, 135, evening chats with the villagers of, 126, religion of villagers, 136-7, the Novena of San Antonio, 137, Easter celebrations at, 138; a case of goma or drunkenness-disease at, 138-9, honesty of the natives at, ib., the one exception, ib.; lessons in cleanliness to the natives at, 140; difficulties of packing and despatching moulds, ib.; changes at the ruins since date of visit, and important work on by Americans, 142; thunderstorms at, 143; writer leaves, for Quirigua, 143.
Copilco, 245.
Cordova, Hernandez de, his expedition to Yucatan, 194-5.
Corn, Indian, 32, 44, 108.
Coroza palms, 145, 147, 152.
Cortés, Hornando de, his expedition to Mexico, and conquest thereof, 195, 204; his march to Honduras, 183, 244-6, 250, 251.
Costa Grande, low lands of, 51.
Costumes seen in Guatemala, 28.
—— of Alcaldes, 20.
—— Indian, 23, 84, seen in Antigua, 29.
———— in Chimaltenango, 43.
———— Palenque, 58.
———— Patzun, 42-3.
———— San Tomas, 73.
———— Sololá, 71-2.
———— worn by Lacandon Indians, 237.
——, Ladino, at San Miguel, 84.
———— Servants' at Guatemala, 10.
———— Women's, 29, riding do., 48.
—— Mestiza Women's, Laguna, 213.
Cozumel, Island of, 195.
Craters, of Agua, 26, 34-6.
—— of Fuego, 40.
Creoles, (see also Caribs), 188.
Crickets, 48.
​Cu (Indian name for a temple), at Chichén Itzá, 209, at Ixkun, 177, at Tayasal, 246, at Uspanlan, 80, at Utatlan, 67.
Cuba, 195.
Cubulco, 102.
Cuckoos, ground, 110.
Cuesta de Santa Maria, 62.
Cultivation, Indian methods of, 44, 46.
Culua, city, 251-2.
Custom House, exorbitant charges of at Guatemala, 8, 11, 15, irritating methods at Laguna, 214.
Cuzcatlán (Salvador), reached by Alvarado, 65.
Cypress, 85.
DANCES, 94-5, 214, 220-1.
Delgado, Padre Diego, his missionary expedition to Tayasal and its fate, 247.
Devil-fish, 5.
Diaz, Bernal, 194, cited on Cordova's expedition, 195, 244-5.
——, Porfirio, President of Mexico, 190.
Dieseldorff, Mr. Erwin, archæologist, 119, 126.
Distilleries at San Gerónimo, 108.
Divers (birds), 216.
Dogs, Indian, ravenous, 79, 236-7.
Dolores, village, 174, 176.
—— de las Lacandones, settlement founded, 247.
Dolphins, 4.
Domingo, his tale of stone Idols, 164-5, and search for, 168, he propitiates the hill-spirit, 169, his vast appetite, 164.
Dominican missionaries at Coban, 95, at Santiago, 95, 96, in Sacapulas, 97, at Tuzulutlan, 98.
Drunkenness, see Goma.
Ducks and coots, 57, 216.
Dulce, Golfo, 128, 152, 251.
—— river, 246, gorge of, 155, 251.
Dutch padre at Coban, his reminiscences, 161-2, he reads a novel, 162.
EARTHQUAKES and volcanic eruptions at Antigua, 26.
Easter and Holy Week, holidays kept by Indians, 138, 143.
Ecclesiastical influence, decline of in Coban, 94, in Guatemala, 11.
Educational difficulties, 54-5.
Egrets, 216.
Elder trees and flowers, 22, 32.
Embroidery of Solola, fame of, 71.
Enaguas, part of women's dress, 23, 29, 42-3, 84.
Encuentros, Los, elevation of, 72.
Epiphytes, 58.
Equipment of a native traveller, 20.
—— necessary for exploring ruined cities, and difficulties of transporting it, 128, 141, 150.
Erezuma, Don Adolfo, 215, 217, 222, 223.
Ermitas described, 158.
Escuintla, ice trade of, 34.
Esquipulas, shrine of the Black Christ at, and religious festival of, 49, view of, 50.
Estancos (public-houses), 53, as pawn-shops, 72.
Euphorbiæ, 111.
FAMILY Saint, Indian, 92.
—— settlement, ib.
Ferns:—
Chute fern, 91.
Maidenhair, 22.
Tree-, 91, 105, 155.
Ficus trees, 30, 119.
Fiestas, (see Easter &c.) of the Hija de Maria, 12.
—— Indian, 73, 220.
—— de Reyes, 28.
Fighting scene in wall-paintings at Chichén Itzá, 207.
Fireflies, 77.
Fire Peak, Volcan de Fuego (ill.), 39.
Fish:—Devil-fish, 5, Dolphins, 4, Flying-fish, 4, Mojarra, 57, Triponcito or Pepesca, in the lake of Atitlan, 57.
—— in the Rio Usumacinta, 216.
Fish-fence, 217.
Flores, (see also Tayasal), 232, 235, 245.
Flowers:—
Barbas de viejo (Bromelia), 58.
Bignonia, 23.
Bottle-brush, 110.
Bromelias, 58, 92.
​Cacti, 112.
Nopal cactus, 27.
Organ-pipe cactus, 112.
Calceolarias, 76.
Cannas, 92.
Cranes' bills, 33.
Dahlias, 1, 22.
Elder, 22, 32.
Epiphytes, 58.
Euphorbiæ, 112.
Frangipani, 83, 106.
Geraniums, 33.
Heliotrope, 1, 22.
Hibiscus, crimson, 23, 140.
Jasmin, yellow, 23.
Madre de Cacao, 106.
Mimosa, 80.
Mistletoe, 83.
Morning glories, 8.
Musæ, 92.
Orchids, 58, 78, 83.
Pointsettia, 23.
Roses, 1, 22, 23, 91.
Salvias, scarlet, 32.
Sunflowers, 8, 22, 32, 33.
Tillandsias, 83.
Violets, 102.
Wigandia, 22.
Flycatchers, 110.
Flying-fish, 4.
Foreigners in Coban, 9, in Guatemala, 11.
Forest life, animal and vegetable, 147.
Forests, lowland and mountain, difference of vegetation in, 122.
Foundation-mounds, see Cimientos.
Frangipani, 83, 106.
Frijoles, 19, 174.
Frogs, 48.
Frontera, town of, 212, 215.
Fruit and Fruit-trees:—
Aguacates or Alligator-pears, 10, 58.
Aniseed, 51.
Anonas, 10.
Bananas, 3, 4, 7, 8, 10, 23, 31, 76, 78, 108, 118, 150.
fibre of, or Manilla hemp, 197.
Cacao, 194.
wild, 217, 251.
Cedron nut, 170.
Chili-peppers, 124, 237, 251.
Cocoa-nuts, 10.
Cocoanut-palms, 3, 4, 7, 8, 23, 107, 109.
Coffee-bushes, 23, 27, 30, 53, 57, 91, 108.
trees, 89.
Ficus trees, 30, 119.
Matapalo (parasitic fig), 147.
Gourds, 237.
Jocotes, 10.
—— trees, 31, 57.
Lemons, sweet, 10.
Limes, 10.
Oranges, 10, 57, 76, 108.
Peach-trees, 23, 32.
Peppers, 251, see Chili-peppers.
Pimiento, 10.
Pine-apples, 10.
Plantains, 23, 237.
Sugar-cane, 107, 117.
Tomatoes, 10, 237.
Yams, 237.
Fuchsias, 33.
Fuego, Volcano, see Volcan.
Fuensalida, Padre Bartolomé de, his expedition to Tayasal, 246-7.
Fuentes y Guzman, Francisco Antonio, author of the Recordacion Florida, 66, his description of Utatlan, ib., 69, 253.
GAMBLING, 213.
Games, of the Mayas, 205-6.
Gann, Dr., mural paintings found by, in British Honduras, 252.
Garrapata insects (ticks), 122.
Gaumer, Dr. and Mrs., work for the 'Biologia Centrali-Americana,' 198.
German traders in Guatemala, 11.
Giuntini, Mr., plaster-moulder, 128, 130, passim.
God of Thunder (Idol), 246, 247.
Godines, road to, 43, great barranca of, ib., writer's arrival at and meeting with Mr. Audley Gosling, 45, view from camp at, 46, ride through, 51.
​Golfete, the, 154.
Goodman, Mr. J. T., his notes and tables of Maya hieroglyphic inscriptions, 258 et seq.
Goma disease, the, 138.
Gophers or Taltusas (Geomys hispidius), 33.
Gorgonio, see Lopez.
Gosling, Mr. Audley, 45, 51.
Gourds, 237.
Gracias á Dios, falls of, 165.
Great Cycles of the Mayas, see Hieroglyphics.
—— Southern Pine Ridge, see Pine Ridge.
Grijalva, Juan de, his expedition discovers Mexico, 195.
—— River, 245.
Ground cuckoos, 110.
—— doves, ib.
Guacacualcos town, 244-5.
Guarda-barrancas (birds), 13, 119.
Guatemala city, (see Antigua, Ciudad Vieja, Iximché, and Santiago), 8, 15, barrancas near, ib., 12, situation and surroundings of, 9, the market-place of, 10, exorbitant Customs duties at, 11; decay of ecclesiastical influence at, ib.; churches, vesper service at, 12; German merchants at, 11; evening promenade, 13; Hotels at, 14; British legation at, ib.; foundation of city, 25-6; strongholds of, 70.
Guzman, see Fuentes y Guzman.
HAMMOCK bridge, 159-60.
Harris, Mr., and Mr. Burns, hospitality of, 106-7.
Heliotrope, 1, 22.
Henequen cultivation, 197.
Herrera, Don Carlos, his cattle-rancho at Quirigua, 146.
—— the historian, his account of Tlachtli, 205.
Heyde, Father, his excavations in the plain near Rio Negro, 80.
Hibiscus, crimson, 23, 40.
Hieroglyphic inscriptions of the Mayas, (see Copan etc.); the Codices, 254; month and day signs, 255; numerals, 256, and annual calendar, 256, 257, 258; signs for the periods of time (Chuen, Ahau, etc.), 259-61; Great cycles, 261; Archaic Annual Calendar, 264, 266-271; collection and interpretation of inscriptions, use of the work, 271; antiquity of the American races evidenced by, retrospect, 272.
Hijas de Maria, fiesta de, 12.
Hill spirits, Indian belief in, 168-9.
Holmes, Mr. W. H., 229.
Hondo river, 235, 246.
Honduras, (see British Honduras), march of Cortés to, 196. gulf of, 75. republic of, President of, 128. army of, how occupied in time of peace, 131. war of with neighbouring states, 132.
Horse, the, of Cortés, treated as a god, an idol of made, 246-7.
Huipils, part of women's dress, 23, 29, 42, 43.
Human faces in sculpture, 80, 203, 263.
Human sacrifice, a representation of, in the paintings at Chichén Itzá, 207; by drowning at, 208.
Humming-birds, 110.
ICE, 33, 34.
Idols, 15, 69; reported existence of, 164, 168, 203; the Trinquete idol, 205, Tzimin Chac idol, 246-7.
Iglesia, la, at Chichén Itzá, 203.
Iguana lizards, Rio Makál, 185.
—— village of, 145.
Indian and Indians:—
Babies, 10, 29, 31, 134, 166.
Baptism, importance of to, 106.
Belief in hill spirits, 168-9.
Birth customs, 136.
Burial-places, (see Ermitas), 158. burial of a child, 167.
Carriers (called also cargadores and mozos), engaged by the Alcaldes, 21, cost of, 32, appearance when loaded, 48, difficulty in obtaining, 105-6, laziness of, 87, refuse to proceed, 71, difficulties with, 76-7, 105, 163-4, 217, inhumanity of, 166; catering for, 164; discourse to, 172, dismissal of, 185, home-sickness among, 186.
​Charms, 50, 171.
Costumes, see Costumes, Indian.
Courtesy, 48.
Dances of, 92-5.
Drinks, 31, 92, 194.
Dulness when civilized, 237.
Easter customs and Holy Week, 138, 143.
Family organization, 92.
—— Saints, ib.
Food, 10, 19, 48, 164, 174, 224.
Habit of firing rockets, 74.
Holidays, (see also Easter, supra).
Hostility to excavations, 86.
Houses, 51.
—— and gardens, 91.
Ice collection by, 33, 34.
Labour, difficulties connected with, (see Carriers, supra), 107, 211, at Rabinal, 105.
Methods of digging, introduction of wheel-barrows, 200-1.
Music, 49, 59, 94, 96.
Objection to being photographed, and reasons, 49.
Pilgrims, ceremonies of, 58, at prayer, 88, journey of, to the Black Christ at Esquipulas, 49.
Religion, 58, 88, 136-7, 186.
Reverence for localities, 168.
Saints, 92.
Schoolboys and schoolmasters, 55.
Small communities, sanitary advantages of, 98, 102.
Sunday-night customs, San Antonio, 53-4.
Washerwomen, 10, 20.
Weapons, present day, 237.
Wedding ceremonies at Coban bridge (pre-Christian), 97-8.
Women of Santa Maria, 31.
dress of, see Costumes, Enaguas, and Huipils.
dulness of their life, 58.
unattractiveness of, 31.
weaving of, 56.
Worship, see Baptism, Pilgrims, &c.
Indians of British Honduras and Yucatan, 189-90, of Guatemala, 10, of Santa Cruz, Yucatan, their status akin to slavery, 198.
Indigo trade, 49.
Insects, troublesome, at Copan, 122, at Laguna, 214, on the river Usumacinta, 215, at Yaxché, 178.
Insects:—
Ants, 102, 109, 122.
Parasol, 148.
Bees, 27, 147.
Centipedes, 123.
Cockroaches, ib.
Coloradillos, 122.
Fireflies, 77.
Flies, passim.
Garrapatas (Ticks), 122.
Mosquitos, 147, 150, 215, 226.
Scorpions, 123, 150.
Spiders, 123.
Wasps, 109.
Irrigation at Panajachél, 57, at San Gerónimo, 107.
Irving, Washington, cited on Columbus and the Maya Indians, 193.
Itzá Indians, 70, their former headquarters, 245, missionary effort among, 246-9, buildings of, 249, migration and decay of, ib.
Iximché or Guatemala, 60, 66, 67, 69, 70.
Ixkún, ruins at, 174-7, cues or temples at, 177, carved stela at, 243.
Izalco, Volcano, see Volcan.
Izamal, see Yzamal.
JAGUARS, use made of skulls of, 236.
Jamet y Sastre, Messrs., 168, 215, 235.
Jasmin, yellow, 23.
Jays, blue and grey, 48, 110, 118, 120.
Jesuit missions and Caribs, 188.
Jicacques, see Lacandones.
Jícaro, El, visit of the Jefe Politico, 111, writer's journey resumed through parched and waterless ground, 112.
Jocotan, 115.
Joyabaj, 80.
​Juan, Don, cacique of Coban, see Caciques.
Juarros, Domingo, his description of Utatlan, 66.
LABNÁ, ruins at, 198.
Lacandon river, 236, 240, 241, writer’s journey on, 167, Spanish explorations of, 247.
Lacandones, Indians, 236, an untamed tribe, 83, lake stronghold of, 70, their copal offerings at Menché, 238.
Ladino church function, a, 12, 43. Costumes, 10, 29, 48, 84, 213. indifference to Indian customs, 73. inhabitants of Guatemala, 10. of San Antonio, 53. servants, 10. soldiers, 51. travellers, 48.
Ladrada, Rodrigo de, 96.
Laguna, La, 115.
Laguna, wood-shipping season at, 212; principal inhabitants and pastimes, 213-4, Mestiza women at, ib., houses of the Mestizos at, 214, surroundings of, ib., writer joined at, by Mr. Price and M. Chambon, 215, the start from, ib., alligators and mosquitos of, ib.
Lake of Amatitlan, see Amatitlan.
—— of Atitlan, see Atitlan.
—— strongholds in days of Spanish discovery, 70.
Landa, Diego de (Bishop of Yucatan), his description of the sacred ’cenote at Chichén Itzá, 208; cited on Maya divisions of time, 254-5.
Lanquin river and places near, 159, 163.
Las Casas, Bartolomé, (Apostle of the Indies) undertakes the conversion of the Indians of Tuzulutlan, 95, 96, 98, 99, and those of Sacapulas, 97.
Lenten fare, alligator meat, 41.
Leopard, painting of, at Utatlan, 69.
Lianes, use of, 78, 113, 174.
Lick Observatory, visit to, 2.
Lightning-stones, i. e. stone axes, 114.
Lignum-Vitæ trees, 110.
Lintels, carved, 206, 235, 238, 239, one taken home, 240.
Livingston, port of, 128, 155-6, 246.
Llano de la Fragua, waterless plain, writer’s journey across, 112, river forded in, 113.
Localities, Indian reverence for, 168.
Loom, Indian, 56.
Lopez family, the home of, 159. Caralampio, son of Gorgonio, 16, 17, 33, 84, 224. Carlos, brother of Gorgonio, 119, 140, 157, 163, 185. Gorgonio, a faithful companion, 16-19, his kindness to animals, 20, his patience, 105, his bathes an object-lesson to Indians, 140, 151; prostrate with fever, 154, 159; loses his way in forest, 171, 187; at Palenque, 224, at Menché, 240. José Domingo, 140, 163, 171, 182, 224.
Love-making, native ways of, 114, 213.
Lycopodium, 83.
MACAWS (Ara macao), 147.
Machaquilá river, 167, 174, 183.
Madre, Sierra, 9.
Mahogany trees and trade, 146, 168, 188, 239, 241.
Maidenhair fern, 22.
Maize, 28, drink made from, 31, 51, 237, 251, (see also Corn).
Majares, Don Carlos, 215, 223.
Makál river, 183, rafting over, 184, old settlements along, 185, Monkey Fall on, 182.
Maldonado, Alonzo, and the Dominican missionaries, 96.
Maler, Mr. Teobert, hieroglyph found by at Piedras Negras, 263.
Mangrove-trees, 121, 122, swamps of, 187-8.
Manikin sceptres in sculptures at Quirigua, 176.
Manila, ruin of its hemp trade, 176.
Manzanilla, port of Colima, 5.
Marauders, precautions against, 133.
Marimon, Dr. Sebastian, 244.
Market-places, see Plazas.
Matapalo, or parasitic fig, 147.
​Mayas, first historical notice of, 193; attempts to subdue, 196; human faces in sculpture of, 203, 263; civilization of, 128, its evolution, 242; hieroglyphic inscriptions of, 254-72, limited range of these, 242; principal cities of, 211; probably original inhabitants of Yucatan, 213, peoples who dispossessed them, ib., 244; Cortés's march through regions where Maya remains are still found, 244-6; Temples and ruins, (see under various places), 249, 252-3.
Maya-Quiché language, area in which spoken, 60.
Melchor Alfaro de Santa Cruz, map of Tabasco by, 244.
Menché Tinamit, ruins of, 168, 215, 230, 235, 245, writer's journey to, 236; inhabitants of the forests near, ib., their houses, cultivation, and likeness to figures in sculptures, 16, 237; writer's arrival at ruins, ib., and description of them, 238 et seq., arrival of M. Charnay at, 239; carved lintel found at and removed, 239-40; return from, up the river, 240; Menché becomes a Mexican possession, 241.
Mendoza, Baltasar de, 64.
Mercer, Mr. Henry, his deductions from examination of the caves of Yucatan cited, 211, his opinions on the Maya race cited, 211, 245.
Meseta, the, or cinder ridge, Volcan de Fuego, 38-40.
Mestiza women, of Laguna, their costume, 213, and houses, 214; of Monte Cristo, their fine hair, 220.
Mexico, discovered by Grijalva, 195, conquered by Cortés, 244; death of Alvarado at, 25; Maya migrations from, 242; Prescott's glowing account of, 253.
Mico, Sierra del, (see also Minas), 145, 152.
Milson, Mr., 182, 186.
Mimosa, 80.
Minas, Sierra de las, (see also Mico), 104, 145, 250.
Missionaries, (see Dominican), Indian traders as, 96.
Mistletoe, 83.
Mixco, stone figures on the road to, 15 (ill.), ruins near, 17; washerwomen of, 20.
Mocking-birds or Sensontes, at fiestas, 93; 106, 110, 203.
Mojarra, fish, 57.
Monkey, infant, as pet, 179-81.
—— Falls, Rio Makál, 182.
Monkeys, howling, or Monos, (Mycetes villosus), 145, 147, 148.
Monoliths at Copan, 117.
Monte Cristo, 215, climate, river, birds, and fish of, 216; writer's start for Palenque from, 217; revisited, 220; Shrove Tuesday carnival at, ib., surly muleteer at, 219-223.
Montejo, Francisco de, at Chichén Itzá, 210; his expedition to Yucatan, 196.
Mopan river, 181.
Mopanes, tribe, missionaries sent to, 248.
Morazan, or Tocoy, writer puts up in the school-house at, 109; his journey from, ib., vegetation at, ib., birds at, 110.
Morning glories (flowers), 8.
Moros and Christianos, dance so-called, 94-5.
Mosquitos, 147, 150, 215, 226.
Motagua river, 72, 75, 76; ford of, 111, ferry across, 145; fever-haunted forest near, 156; valley deserted by Mayas, 242, their migrations to and from, 242-3.
Mot-mots (birds), 110, 121, 203.
Moulds of sculptures, (see Equipment), packing and transport of, 140, disasters in transit, condition on reaching England, 151.
Mounds, or Cimientos, 169, near Chiché, 75, near Uspantan, 80, believed to contain treasure, 86.
Mozos, see Indian carriers.
Mugeres Island, ruined temple on, 197.
Mules, purchase of, 15, strange adventures of Gorgonio's, 17.
Muleteers, see Arrieros.
Musæ, 92.
Music of the Vera Paz Indians, 93, 94, 96.
NAHUA Indians, invasions of, 211; 242.
Names of frontier towns, comments on, 181.
Narwhal's tooth, see Snake-bite.
Negro, Rio, or Chixoy (q. v.), 15, mounds near, 80, fine views along, 81, writer's camp, ib., ​tedious tracks along, 82, vegetation along, 83, course of and magnificent scenery, 87, a bend of, 88, rafts used to cross, 89.
New Orleans, 154.
Night-jar (bird), see Puhuyak.
Niña Chica, of Copan, 116, her generosity, 132, as show-woman, 136, her saint, 136, and his Novena, 137.
Nopal cactus, 27.
Norfolk Island pine, 100.
OAKS, 83, 122, 182.
Obsidian eyes of figures at Ixkún, 177.
—— and stone implements and knives, at Chiché, 75, at Copan, 126, at Rabinal, 104.
Ocote pines, 80, 83, 85.
Onions, 58.
Orange-trees and fruit, 10, 57, 75, 108.
Orbita, Padre Juan de, missionary expedition of to Tayasal, 246-7.
Orchids, 58, 78, 83.
Orioles (Icterus), 110, 120.
Oropendula (Ostinops Montezumæ-Waglerii), 120, 147.
Outfit, see Equipment.
Owens, Mr. J. G., death of, 142.
Owls, 121.
PACAYA, peaks of, 9.
Pacheco, Don Francisco Tamayo, his expedition to Acalá, 245.
Palacio, Diego Garcia de, 127.
Palenque, 61, 146, 215, 244; ruins of, 70, 215, 218, savannah near, 217-8, preparations for work at, 219, carnival hindrances, 220-1, muleteers and guide to, 219, 221-2 progress of work at, 224, dense vegetation at, cleared, 225, principal buildings, 225-8, first historic accounts of, 228-9, travellers who have visited and described the ruins at, 226, work remaining to be done at, ib.
Palisada, village, 215.
Palms, see Cocoanut-palms and Coroza palms. leaves of as food for horses and mules, 171.
Palmilla, 145.
Panajachél, irrigation at, 57; comfortable inn at, 57, vegetation and fruits of, 57-8, pilgrims at, 58-9, road from, to Sololá, 71.
Pan dulce, 10, 19.
Panuco, Rio, need for further exploration of, 252.
Panzos, port of, export of coffee from, 241.
Parasol-ants, 148.
Parras (birds), 216.
Parrera, Pablo, overseer, 199, 220.
Parroquets, 110, 119.
Parrots, 81, 110, 119, 147.
Partridges, 251.
Pasion, Rio de la, and its branches, 157, 167, 169, forest along, 173, divide near, 176, 235; Spanish expedition to, 247.
Paso Real, 168, 230, 235, 240.
Patál, El, pastures of, 106.
Patients at Coban, 124, 134.
Patinamit, 60.
Patzun, poor accommodation at, 42, dress of inhabitants, 42-3; religious procession at, 43, plain of, 72.
Peabody Institute of Massachusetts acquires control of the ruins of Copan, 141-2.
Peaks, see Craters and Volcan.
Pedernales, Sierra de los, in which Cortés lost his way, 183.
Pelicans, 4.
Peru, expedition of Alvarado to, 25.
Peten, missionary expedition to, 246, 248. Province, inhabitants, of, 231, savannahs of, 163, need of further exploration in, 252.
Peten Itzá, Lake, 182, strongholds in, (see Tayasal), 70, 232, visit of Cortés to, 245.
Peten Turkey (Meleagris ocellata), the, its abundance, 178.
Pheasants, 251.
Philip II. of Spain, 127.
Photographing Indians, 49, 55.
"Piedras do rayo," native name for stone axes found in ruins, 114.
Piedras Negras, 245, hieroglyphic inscriptions from, 263.
Pigs, Indian, 79.
Pilgrims, see Indians.
​Pine-needles used for covering floors, 83, 87, 119.
Pine Ridge, the Great Northern, (see also Makál, Rio), writer's journey in, 182, 183, thicket on fire, 84, possibilities of locality as a sanatorium, 188.
Pine trees, 33, 38, 39, 51, 76, 80, 83, 86, 87, 100, 116, 118, 122, 129, 145, and woods, 152, 174, 182, 184.
Pines, white, 85.
Pisté village, 198, 199.
Pit-pan, a kind of canoe, 186.
Pito-reale birds at fiestas, 93.
Pizarro, successes of, 25.
Plantains, 23, 237.
Plazas, or market-places, at Antigua, 27-8, at Coban, 95, at Copan, 126, at Guatemala, 10, at Panajachél, 58, at Santa Maria, 31.
Poctum savannah, 174.
Pointsettia, 23.
Polochic river, 104, 105, 251, 252.
Popul Vuh, the sacred book of the Quichos, 61.
Potts, Mr. and Mrs., their kindness to travellers, 151.
Prescott's Conquest of America referred to, 253.
Price, Mr. Hugh, 146, 151, 154, 215, 219.
Priests, (see also Dominican missionaries and Ecclesiastical influence), 11, 80, 160.
Processions, 43, 53, 74.
Progreso, roadstead of, 196, 197, 212.
Puchutla, island stronghold in lake, 70.
Pueblo Viejo, (see also Chacujál), 252.
Puhuyak or night-jar bird, legend concerning, 121.
Punta Gorda, 173.
Puro de San Gerónimo, 107-8.
Putnam, Prof., 142.
Pyramids at Chichén Itzá, 203, of Tikál, possible astronomical use of, 234.
QUEKCHI, a modern Indian dialect, 172.
Quetzal bird (Pharomacrus mocinno), 120.
Quezaltenango or Xelahú, battle fought near by Alvarado, 60, 62; 72, 79 (ill.).
Quiché (& Cachiquel) tribes, (see Uspantan and Utatlan), history of, 60-66, 251, sacred book of, 61, subdued by Alvarado, 25, 60-66, 95.
Quirigua, 179, 228, 251, ruins at, 12, 128, 146 et seq., journey to, 143-6, camp at ruins, 146, roaming cattle at, ib., climate, vegetation and birds of, 147, animals and insects at, 148, parasol-ants, ib.; previous visits to ruins (1881-83), 148-151, description of them, 149, and survey, 151, result of bad packing to moulds taken at, ib.; baby squirrel acquired at, 152; quitted for Yzabal, ib.; carvings of sceptres at, 176, carvings on stele of, 265, absence of weapons of war in carvings at, 210, the Great Stone Turtle of, 151, 238.
RABINAL and Cubulco, ruins near, 70, 76, 101-4, town founded by Las Casas, 98, the ball-court at, 104, 106.
Rafts, built by writer, 184, crossing Rio Negro on, 89, Indian, stranded, 165.
Railway, from Puerto Barrios, 145. from San José to Guatemala, 8.
Ramon tree, leaves of used as fodder, 163, 171.
Rastrojos (stubbles), 80.
Rattle-snakes, 123. in stone carvings at Chichén Itzá, 206.
Reforma, La, village, 112.
Religious functions, see also Fiestas; at Coban, 93, at Copan, 137, at Panajachél, 93, at Patzun, 43.
Remate, El, 232.
Remedies for snake-bite, 170-1.
Remesal, Antonio de, historian, cited, 70.
Reptiles:—Alligators, 181, 185, 215, 216-7. Frogs, 48. Snakes, see Rattle-snakes, supra. Tamagás, 123, 170.
Rio, Antonio del, his report on Palenque, cited, 229.
Roek, Mr. Miles, additions made by to map of religion, 84.
Rockets, Indian habit of firing, 74.
Rockstroh, Prof., survey expeditions of, 84, 163, 235-6.
​Roof of vaulted stone, at Utatlan, 69.
Roof-construction at Sacabajá, 78, at Zacapa, 113.
Roses, 1, 22, 23, 91.
Roza, Indian method of cultivation, 44.
Ruatan Islands, landing of Columbus on one of, 193.
Ruins:—see
    Benque Viejo,
    Chacujál (Rio Tinaja),
    Chiché,
    Chichén Itzá,
    Iximché,
    Ixkun,
    Labná,
    Menché,
    Mixco,
    Palenque,
    Piedras Negras,
    Quirigua,
    Rabinal,
    Salísipuede,
    San Gerónimo,
    Takinsakún,
    Teotihuacan (Mexico),
    Tikál,
    Uspantan,
    Utatlan,
    Uxmal,
    Yaxché.
SACAPULAS, Las Casas and the Dominicans at, 96-8.
Sacluc, condition of Indians of, 230-1, wood-cutters of, 231; Englishman at, 231-2; 240.
Sacrificatorio, El, at Utatlan, 68.
Sahagun, Padre, 206.
St. Vincent, Island of, Carib negroes from, at Belize, 188, at Livingston, 155.
Salamá, 101, dried-up plain of, 106, writer at, 106-7.
Salinas, river, 240-1.
Salísipuede, ruins near, 181.
Salvias, scarlet, 32.
San Andrés, Sacabajá, approach to, 77; foraging expedition and writer's quarters at, 78.
San Antonio, Niña Chica's Saint, 136, his Novena, 137.
—— —— village, road to, 51, views of, 52-3; Cabildo and school-house at, ib., costumes at, 51-3, 56; Ladino inhabitants of, 53, Sunday-night custom at, ib., school-boys and master at, 54; Indians photographed at, 55-6; looms at, 56.
—— —— village, founded by refugees from San Luis, 173.
San Antonio village, 182.
—— Blas, roadstead of, 4.
—— Cristóbal (Vera Paz), coffee-culture at, 89.
—— —— (Chiapas), 218.
San Felipe, Castle of, 154.
San Francisco, 1.
San Gerónimo, ruins near, 104; writer's welcome at, 107, Hacienda of built by the Dominicans, ib., and bought by Mr. Bennett, ib., aguardiente and distilleries at, 108, troubles in connection with Mr. Bennett's estate, 107-8; inhabitants of, 108.
—— José, port of, landing at, 7.
—— Juan, river, 167, 176.
—— Luis, (see San Antonio supra), 178; writer's arrival at, 173, disturbances at, on account of the railway tax, ib., church-bells of, seized, ib.
—— Miguel, see Uspantan.
—— Pedro Carcha, Indian headquarters at, 158.
———— Peak of, 46-7.
—— —— River, 245.
—— Rafael, winter vegetation at, 22.
—— Ramon, river, source of, 183.
Santa Catarina, canoes at, 57.
Melchor Alíaro de (Santa Cruz), Map of Tabasco by, 244.
—— Cruz (near Uspantan), 87.
—— —— (Vera Paz), 90, 105.
—— —— (Yucatan), Indians of, 189, 196, their chiefs in Belize, 190.
—— —— del Quiché, 60, padre of, 253.
—— Isabel or Sepusilhá river, (see Pasion and Usumacinta), 107, 173.
—— Maria, village, 30, 37, the Secretario of, 31; writer's quarters at, ib.
—— Rosa, rancho, 106, 240.
Santiago, (see Antigua, Ciudad Vieja, Guatemala, and Iximché), the capital of Guatemala, foundation of, 25, and destruction, 26.
Santo Domingo, 216, writer's quarters at, 218; inhabitants of, ib., visits to ruins from, ib., 218.
—— Tomas Chichicastenango, 72.
​Sarstoon river, headwaters of, 165; crossed by Cortés, 246.
School-boys at San Antonio, 54.
Schoolmaster, at San Antonio, 52-4; illiterate, 55; drunken, 111.
Schulte, Mr., 168, 235-6, 240.
Scorpions, 123.
Secretario, the, at, Santa Maria, 31, 32, 53, at Sacabajá, 75, at Cajabon, 159.
Sensontes, see Mocking-birds.
Sepusilhá river, (see also Santa Maria and Usumacinta rivers), 167.
Serpents' heads in sculpture, 80.
Shrove Tuesday carnival at Monte Cristo, 220.
Sierra, La, valley of, 42.
Smallpox, near Copan, 132.
Snake-bite, 90, remedy for, ib., charm against, 171.
Snakes at Copan, 123, at Quirigua, 150; Indian reason for not killing, 168.
—— Rattle-snakes, 123, in carvings, 206.
—— Tamagás, 123, 170.
Soconusco, province, 61.
Sololá, 71, embroidery at, ib., weaving industry at, 71-2.
Sortilege by drowning at Chichén Itzá, 208-10.
Spoonbills, 216.
Squirrel, purchase of, 152, his adventures, 153-4.
Steamer, disaster to, 141.
Stephen, village judge at Pisté, 199, death of his little son, 201.
Stephens' account of the ruins at Chichén Itzá, 198, at Copan, 127, at Utatlan, 68, of others, 253.
Stoll, Dr. Otto, 37, writer's ascent of Fuego with, 40.
Stone figure at Menché, 238.
Stone idols, near Mixco, 15, 253.
Stone implements (axes etc.) and Obsidian knives, at Chiché, 75, at Copan, 126, at Ixkún, 178, axes how best procured, 114.
Stones as tests of wives' fidelity, 50-1.
Strongholds of tribes encountered by Spaniards, 70.
Stuart, Col., 8.
Sugar-cane, cultivation of, 107, use of leaves of, 117.
Sunday-night custom at San Antonio, 104. worship at Belehú, 88.
Sunflowers, 8, 22, 32, 33.
Sweet, Mr., joins writer at Chichén Itzá, his valuable help, 202, 208, 211.
TABASCO, province, old map of, 244, ruins in, 252-3. river, 61, 212. Cortés at, 195-6, 244.
Tacaná, volcano, 7.
Tactic, hamlet, 105.
Tajamulco, Volcano, 7.
Takinsakún, ruins near, 181.
Taltusas or gophers (Geomys hispidius), 33.
Tamagás, poisonous snakes, 123, 170.
Tanuh and his descendants, caciques of Utatlan, 67.
Tapir, 174.
Tayasal, island stronghold, 70, 232, headquarters of the Itzá tribe, 245, visited by Cortés, ib., missionary expeditions to, 245-8, betrayed, 248; Ursua's expedition to, ib., buildings at, 249; becomes an insignificant village, ib.
Teal, 216.
Tecpan, 60.
Tecum, cacique of Utatlan, 67.
Tehuantepec, gulf of, heavy seas of, 6. Isthmus, Maya settlements east of, 242-3.
Temples, at Menché, 238. at Palonque, Temple of the Cross, 227-8, 238. Temple of the Foliated Cross, 227-8. Temple of Inscriptions, ib. at Tikál, 233.
Tenosique, falls above, 168; 215, 240, 245.
Teotihuacan, Mexico, ruins at, 242, 252.
Tepititan, 245.
Thomae, Mr. and Mrs., their hospitality, 90, 105.
Thompson, Mr. E., his work at the ruins of Labná, 198, 202.
Tierra de guerra, Tuzulutlan, 96.
Tiger, altar carved in shape of, at Chichén Itzá, 207.
​Tikál, 244, 246, 249, pyramidal ruins at, 129, 182, 185, 230, scarcity of water at, 235, Indian attempt to form a settlement at, ib.
Tillandsias, 83.
Timber-trees, reckless felling of, 44.
Tinaja, Rio, ruins on, 252, (see Chacujál).
Tipu, 246, 247, 248.
Tlachtli, Mexican Ball-game, court for, at Chichén Itzá, 205, description of, 205, court for at Rabinal, 104.
Tobacco-plant, 237.
Tocoy, see Morazan.
Toltecs and Mayas, originally the same stock, 242.
Tomatos, 10, 237.
Tonalá, battle fought by Alvarado at, 61.
Tortillas, 19, 224.
Totoposte, corn-cakes, 164, 174.
Toucans (Rhamphastos carinatus), 120.
Transport difficulties, see Equipment.
Trapos (woven fabrics), search for, 71.
Treasure, mounds believed to contain, 86.
Trees:—see Fruit and Fruit-trees.
    Acacias, 109. tree similar to, 106.
    Calabash, 237.
    Capulin, 113.
    Cedars, 2, 140, 146.
    Ceiba, 121-2.
    Cheirostemon platanoides, 33.
    Chichicaste, 72-3.
    Coroza palms, 145, 147, 152.
    Cypresses, 85.
    Elders, 22.
    Euphorbiæ, 112.
    Lignum Vitæ, 110.
    Mahogany, 146, 188.
    Mangroves, 121, 187, 188.
    Palm, 23.
    Pine, 33, 38, 51, 59, 76, 82, 85, 86, 87, 100, 116, 118, 122,129, 145, 152, 182, 184. White, 85.
    Ramon, 163, 171.
    Tree-ferns, 91, 105, 155.
Trinquete Idol, the, 205-6.
Triponcito or pepesca, fish, 57.
Trogons (birds), see Aurora and Quetzal.
Troncoso, Señor, his researches at Florence, 206.
Tulija river, 245.
Turkey, Peten (Meleagris ocellata), 179.
Turtles, 4; the Great Stone Turtle of Quirigua, 151.
Tuzulutlan (tierra de guerra), missionary work in, 95-8; named Vera Paz, 99.
Tzimin Chae, idol, origin of, 246-7.
Tzutuhil tribe, 60-1, Alvarado's expedition against, 64.
UNICORN'S horn, uses of, 171.
Ursua, Don Martin, his expedition to Tayasal, 248.
Uspantan, 70, 76, 249; artificial mounds and ruins near, 80-1; writer's arrival at, 83, and quarters in the Convento, 84; preparations for the Jefe's visit, 84, 86, cooking a turkey, 85; search for ruins at, ib., suspicion among the villagers, in consequence of search, 86.
Usumacinta river, (see also Sepusilhá and Pasion), legend of, 121; 167, 212, 215, 241; insects and reptiles on, 215. Valley of, Maya migrations to and from, 243, Cortés loses himself near, 245.
Utatlan, capital of the Quiché tribe, 60, 61, 62, 249; described by Fuentes and Juarros, 66, 69, by Stephens, 68, sketch and plan of, by Catherwood, 69, a former stronghold, 70.
Uxmal, ruins at, 198.
VALLADOLID, early settlement at, 196, 198.
Vegetations, (see Flowers, Fruits, Trees, also Forests), 22, 23, 33, 44, 57, 58, 76, 83, 110, 112, 122, 146, 229.
Vehicles, 198, 240.
Velasco, Capt. Juan Dias de, annihilated with his force, 248.
Vera Cruz, landing of Cortés on Isle of, 244.
Vera Paz, (see Tuzulutlan), music of Indians of, 93; why so named, 99.
Vico, Padre, his martyrdom, 99.
Villagutierrez,—historian, 245, 250.
Violets, 102.
​Volcan de Agua, ascent of, 32, region of frost on, 33, camp, 34, crater, 26, 34-6, view from, 35, sunrise on, 35, highest point, 36, frozen coffee on, ib., descent, ib.; previous ascent of, 37; 71.
—— Acatenango, 39.
—— Atitlan, 39, 46-7.
—— Fuego, ascent of, 36-8, camp on and intense cold, 38, sunset and sunrise seen from, ib., the Meseta and Fire-peak of, 39; crater, 40; 71.
—— Izalco, 35.
—— Tacaná, 7.
—— Tajmulco, 7.
Volcanoes, various, 71.
Volcanic eruptions and earthquakes at Antigua, 26.
Voyage, incidents of the, 1-8.
WALLIS, a buccaneer connected with Belize, 189.
Wars in Central America, 132.
Wasps, 109.
Watercress, 45.
Weaving, Indian methods, 56, 71.
Wheelbarrows and spades introduced at Chichén Itzá, 200.
Whip-poor-will, bird, 48, legend of, 121.
White pine-trees, 85.
Wigandia, 22.
Witchcraft, see Brujeria.
Women in sculptures and paintings, 150, 210.
Woodpeckers, 121.
Wrens, 110.
X., Dr., story of, 190-2.
Xace Venic, mongrel population of, 231.
Xelahú, see Quezaltenango.
Xibalba, abode of departed spirits, 121.
YALCHILAN, Paso de, 239-40.
Yams, 237.
Yaxché, village, 176, ruined town near, 176-8, flies at, 178; Peten turkeys at, ib., pet infant monkey bought at, 179.
Yucatan, (see Landa), 61, politics of, 189, 196; Montejo's expedition to, 196, geology and topography of, ib., Stephens on, 253, Indian raids, and status of Indians in, 198; caves and 'cenotes of, 211, chaltunes of, 235, Maya inhabitants of, 243; 244, 246.
——, Great Bank of, 141, 197.
Yuccas, 73.
Yzabal, port, 128, 250; arrival of writer at, 153, farewells at, 154.
Yzamal, hospitality of Dr. and Mrs. Gaumer at, 198; 199.
ZACAPA, road to, 105, difficulty in finding carriers, 105, writer's lodgings in, 113, the hotel described, ib., 114, the start from to Copan, 114, parched track traversed, 115.
Zaguatan, 245.
Zapateado, an Indian dance, 220-2.
Zapotitlán, battle fought by Alvarado near, 62.
Zaragoza, its manufactures, and curious tastes of its inhabitants, 41.
Zenotes, see 'Cenotes. Zon, dance of the Elders, 94.
Zopilote vultures (Cathartes atratus), 13, 90, 111, 121.
THE END.
PRINTED BY TAILOR AND FRANCIS, RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET.