# Charleston: Its Rise and Decline/Chapter 25

Chapter XXV.
CHARLESTON—ITS GROWTH AND PROGRESS.
CHARLESTON was a lovable, but not a lovely, town; though its surrounding parts were of a deep scenic beauty. Its river reaches, its forest stretches and timber-covered terraces, its glittering white-sand beaches, its rugged rocky coast and bold headlands that emphasised the sheen of blue waters, its fern-dressed creeks and gullies, the green heights of Darkie’s Terrace when draped with morning mist or lit by sunset glows—all were of pristine loveliness that delighted the senses.
Its working field, the wide pakihi, its mine-scarred cement flats speckled with dams and lined with water-races, its tailing-dumps and hopper-heaps, were not inspiring; were, in fact, drab and monotonous, of a dull brownness unrelieved by green swards, coloured blossoms, or smiling gardens. It was ugly; yet even its utilitarian ugliness held an appeal, seemed to fascinate rather than repel; was a constant evidence of the field’s prosperity and the labours and activities of its people; the sign of wealth.
The town, with the exception of bank buildings and two or three leading hotels, evidenced the haste with which it had been rushed up to meet immediate needs. Business premises were of various sizes and designs, with presentable fronts and thrown-together back parts, with scant regard to comeliness. Its cottages were of conventional goldfield type; two gable-roofed rooms with or without a lean-to back, and having a small window at each side of the “front door.” Each and all met the requirements of the fast-growing township, so why cavil?
Its streets were but roads, rough and gravel-strewn; ​without pavements but having stone-cobbled footpaths in the more busy parts, and gravelled footpaths at others. There was no street lighting beyond the large kerosene lamps that public-houses were required to keep lighted above their entrances from dusk to dawn. As the streets were narrow and public-houses numerous, this sufficed. Mr. A. D. Dobson speaks of early Charleston as being “a very busy place, consisting almost entirely of public-houses and stores.”
But for its hidden wealth in gold, Charleston would never have been; as this diminished its busy life diminished; it held little other inducement to settlement; when the gold was ended Charleston was ended.
During this transition, many hesitated whether to stay or leave, a position akin to what in a game of draughts is called “a pair of breeches,” when either alternative move seems unfavourable. Many left; the few stayed, buoyed like Micawber with the hope of something turning up, and trusted to luck. “Make the best of this life,” an old miner was wont to say, “you may not be too well pleased with the next.”
It is impossible to state with accuracy the population of Charleston in the early years, but reasonably near surmises may be made. The Registrar-General, reporting to Parliament on 18th October, 1869, stated: “It is only in the years that the census is taken that it is possible to form even an approximately accurate estimate of the population in the several provinces or other divisions of the Colony; there being no means of correctly ascertaining the numbers who migrate from one part of New Zealand to another.”
These remarks were particularly pertinent to Charleston, the various official estimates being at least misleading, while the census returns show less population than is known to have existed. Necessarily so, considering the means available and the insuperable difficulties of collecting correct information. Anything approaching a complete roll was practically impossible. Manifestly, official statements have been based upon book-records, revenue returns, the number of various licenses issued, etc.; giving the number engaged upon mining and trade instead of the population of the entire field.
Early census returns appear to include only the township ​and its near workings, not including the “floating population” nor the many scattered about the more remote and inaccessible parts of the wide goldfield. Mr. A. D. Dobson estimated that at Charleston in the late ’sixties, “within a radius of three miles, about 12,000 men were gold digging.”
The quantity of gold collected in the early years upon the West Coast was enormous, but the harvest lasted for a short time only. Mr. C. E. Haughton, in a report to the Colonial Secretary, on 16th July, 1872, said: “It is impossible to state with any accuracy the total quantity of gold produced in one year”; and added “it may fairly be conjectured that a considerable quantity is smuggled out of the Colony in order to evade high duty; whilst among alluvial miners especially, a practice of hoarding their gold is very prevalent; with the idea, no doubt, in many cases, of shipping it quietly away without troubling H.M. Customs.”
The amount won was considerably greater than returns show. In early times much bartering was done with masters of ships—the ships also purchased gold and, in all, took away more gold than cash or drafts—much gold was used also in the production of jewellery and ornaments.
The greater number of sections within the township were, at first, held under the “Business License” system. A regulation of 31st July, 1865, under the Goldfields Act of 1862, provided that: “Every person engaged in trade or business shall obtain from the Warden a Business License.”
The annual fee was £10 (Nelson Gazette, 1863) but, it is believed, was later reduced to £5. This gave the licensee the right to occupy an area of half a square chain, with a frontage of 33 feet and a depth of 66 feet. Holders were required to peg their sites at each corner, with pegs two inches square and 1 foot high. They could build on only 27 feet of the frontage, leaving a space of at least 6 feet between buildings. This regulation applied to Charleston from 1866 onwards; but the issue from 1874 to 1878, of Crown Grant titles to a large proportion of town sections, relieved the grantees of the necessity of holding Business Licenses and, it is believed, of leaving spaces between buildings.
A practice that Charleston had in common with other gold​fields, was the bestowing of nicknames upon all and sundry, sometimes to the exclusion of surnames. A few of the best remembered were: “Shakespeare Joe”—Joseph Dromgool, a reciter of Shakespearean items at the Institute Concerts. “Scotch Jock”—John Purves Mitchell, a reciter in the Doric at local entertainments. “Schmidt the Fiddler”—a violinist at local dances, etc. “Jimmy the Duke”—a well-known resident who, in speech and attire, was somewhat ahead of the times; it is said that he even dared to wear spats, otherwise “collars on his boots.” “Parson Brown”—G. R. Brown, a devoted church-worker. “The Duck”—a showman who was prosecuted for compelling ducks to dance upon hot plates. Strangely another showman was Louis de Gander, but this was not a nickname. Others were “Jimmy the Yank,” “Billy the Native,” “Billy the Chief,” “Half-pint Dick,” “Bristol Charlie,” “Old York,” “Hopping Billy.”
The following are shown in the late Robert Hannah’s Account Ledger of 1871: “Harry the Fisher,” “Red Jack,” “Old Bill,” “The Ripper,” “Old Daddy,” “George the Bellman.”
1866. In the first half of this year Charleston field, known to the Maori as Tauhinau, was a pakihi waste where feet of white man, excepting two or three passing explorers, had never ventured; its port a nameless bay; it population nil. In the second half of the year, Linahan and his mate or mates, found gold at either Candlelight or The Basin, and the place was rushed. By the end of the year there was a population of 1,200.
For a time the field bore no definite European name, being spoken of as “The Pakihi,” anglicised and mutilated to “The Parkeese.” Captain Charles Bonner, in the ketch Constant, arrived at the bay with much-needed food supplies. The settlement became known as “Charlie’s Town,” and the bay as “Constant Bay.” The Signal Station was erected on “Flagstaff Hill.” Mr. A. Greenwood partly surveyed the town, and amended its name to Charleston.
The Warden of South-West Goldfields, in a report from Hokitika, on 31st March, stated: “The general tendency of the miners for the last two or three months has been towards ​the northward.” This tendency resulted in the fields at Charleston and Brighton being discovered.
1866-1867. The progress during the first eighteen months of Charleston’s life was remarkable, and when recounted sounds like romance.
A port was established, with Signalman and Signal Station. A town was surveyed and built upon. A pack-track was formed to Brighton. A bridge was built across the Nile River. A Police Camp and Courthouse were established. The Beach-route coach and wagon service from Buller to Charleston was inaugurated. A newspaper was being published. Seaborne traffic increased tenfold, with landing-places at both Constant Bay and Little Beach. A tramway was operating from Little Beach, also one from Nile Bridge to Darkie’s Terrace Road. Constant Bay suffered its first shipwrecks—the Iona and the Emerald Isle. Two churches, three trading banks, two schools, the hospital, and the Oddfellows’ Lodge were opened. The main streets were formed and metalled. A mile-long metalled road was provided “from the town to the diggings”; probably Darkie’s Terrace. A railroad from Westport to Charleston was contemplated. Three large double-storeyed hotels were operating, and probably forty or fifty others. A coalmine was opened. Many crushing-batteries were erected, and gold was gathered beyond expectation. The Provincial Council voted £341 for branch roads, and £1,305 for public buildings. On 3rd July, 1867, it was moved in the Provincial Council, by Mr. Donne that: “Reserves should be set apart for educational, church, recreation, and other public purposes.” The motion was lost. The nearby goldfield of Addison’s Flat was discovered in May, 1867. On 17th July, 1867, the Superintendent of the Province reported that “the townships of Charleston and Brighton are now being surveyed.” Commissioner Kynnersley reported “a considerable increase in the population and prosperity of the district.” The postal business was transferred from Mr. H. W. Stebbing’s store to the Government Post Office erected in May, 1867. A ferry was established at Totara River by S. J. Loring, 1867.
1868. Progress continued apace. Constant Bay Harbour was crowded with small craft; larger vessels were tendered by ​surf-boats, and a Harbourmaster was appointed. The P.S. Waipara entered the bay—the first steamer to cross its bar. There were 9 steam-batteries, and 78 water-wheels operating; the value of the plant being £83,600. Little Beach landing-place for seaborne supplies was abandoned.
On 15th January a petition signed by Robert Clarke and 1,024 other miners praying for the establishment of a Mining Board to amend the Mining Regulations was presented to the Warden, Mr. Dutton, who sent it to Commissioner Kynnersley, and he to the Provincial Secretary. Mr. Dutton failed to see the necessity for such a Board, and Mr. Kynnersley concurred, but admitted that the regulations were “inapplicable to the important cement workings and to the steam machinery that is now being introduced in the Charleston district.” The Government did not agree to the formation of such a Board.
On 20th May a motion was moved in the Provincial Council that there be placed on the Supplementary Estimates “a sum sufficient to reward the original prospectors of the Charleston Goldfields, now found to be permanent goldfields.” It was negatived. The Church of England was erected. The first cricket match was played, on St. Patrick’s Day. A volunteer Rifle Club was formed in April, and was disbanded in October. The Postmaster’s residence was built. Charleston was connected with Greymouth and Westport by telegraph.
The Satellite was wrecked at Totara River. The Masonic Lodge was opened. Charleston was separated from Cobden district and proclaimed a separate Goldfield district, with a resident Warden and Magistrate. “Hall’s Track” from Nine-mile Beach to Brown’s Terrace was constructed and a poll imposed.
The easily-won surface gold showed signs of diminishing. On 24th January the Wesport Daily Times commented: “Mining affairs continue very quiet, and holders of surface claims about Candlelight and elsewhere talk about their ground as not likely to last much longer.” A contrary opinion was expressed by the Warden about fifteen months later, on 31st March of the following year.
On 25th November a Westport newspaper speaking of Charleston said: “The town is very dull and reminds one ​of a small village. The publicans are becoming by no means rich, and as for dance houses they are nearly defunct. At a sports meeting the other night it was waggishly proposed that the horse-races should take place in the street.”
In May, the Charleston Herald complained: “From Camp Reserve to Buller Road, there is only a narrow roadway; the whole width of the road being in its primitive condition of bog, intersected by numerous open drains and water-races; an appearance discreditable to the principal entrance to the town.”
The Addison’s Flat riot occurred. The Court heard 1,104 criminal cases but, so quickly was law and order established, that in 1872 only one case was heard.
1869. The Warden, Mr. C. Broad, reported on 31st March: “Charleston has already put on an appearance of permanent prosperity. The amount of ground known as auriferous is capable of employing the present population for years to come. The introduction of machinery and the granting of extended areas, has secured a settled population, and made goldmining assume more the appearance of a settled industry than the occupation of a roving community.”
It is estimated that there were about 240 batteries and “crushers” working, in addition to the numerous sluicing claims. Applications for water-races were 470, and for dams 307. The Warden stated that “all available ground is being worked, and water-races and dams meet the eye in every direction.”
Constant Bay was declared the “Port of Charleston.” The first race-meeting was held, in January, on the Nine-mile Beach. The first football match was played, on 9th March. A town band and a fire-brigade were formed. The Nile bridge had been taken over by the Provincial Council, and the toll abolished. A ferry and track were established from Totara Lagoon to the Addison’s Flat track, by William Bird, and tolls imposed.
The District Engineer reported the completion of “a road from Charleston to Brown’s Terrace, on the way to the Shamrock Lead, a distance of about five miles.” A valuation of house property, made by Thomas Dwan, showed it to be £83,000. The Warden’s report estimated the number of ​houses as being about 200 and remarked that most of them were public-houses. His estimate evidently referred to the township only, not to the field. Extensions were made to the Post Office, Warden’s house, and the Survey Office. The new Courthouse was completed. An enquiry was made in the Provincial Council as to whether a plan for a water supply at Charleston was to be submitted. The reply was “No.” The large coal-seam fire occurred, near to the Camp Reserve.
This is considered to have been the peak year of Charleston’s population and prosperity. Notwithstanding varying official statements and census figures, there is reason to believe that the population was about 12,000. Old-timers place it at from 10,000 to 14,000, so probably by “splitting the difference” a fair surmise is reached; for surmise only, it can now be.
A serious fire occurred in November, resulting in the loss of three business premises and three hotels, on the north side of Prince’s Street West.
In January a Police escort took £10,000 worth of gold to Westport; probably the “clean up” before Christmas of 1868.
1870. It was clearly in this year that Charleston’s golden glamour began to fade, that it became a goldfield rather than an El Dorado, and its floating population began to move elsewhere. The Warden reported that “many miners have left for the Thames field and for a new field south of Brighton.” However, it is estimated that at the end of the year the population was about 10,000. The number of Miners’ Rights issued in the financial year 1869-1870 was 1,220, as compared with 1,700 in the previous financial year. About 78 publicans’ licenses were held.
The first Shetlanders arrived at Nine-mile Beach and started to develop the beachcombing industry. The Hibernian Society’s branch was formed on 5th January. The banks in Charleston purchased £24,000 worth of gold during the week before Christmas, the result of a general “wash up.”
1871. The Foresters’ Lodge and the Mechanics’ Institute and Library were opened.
1872. St. Patrick’s School was opened, increasing the number of town schools to three. The Resident Magistrate, ​Dr. Joseph Giles, reported upon “the falling-off of the population of Charleston.” The Warden, Mr. C. Broad, reported: “At Brown’s Terrace, near Charleston, where are immense deposits of goldbearing cement, machinery of the most approved and latest kind is to be erected. It is estimated that 2 dwts. to the ton should give shareholders substantial dividends. The experiment will be watched with interest.”
On 13th May, Dr. Giles reported: “Ground sluicing is prevalent at Charleston. Cement-crushing by means of batteries of stamp-heads has been the distinguishing feature of Charleston district, but this is a mode of working that has lately declined owing to the best ground being worked out, and ground sluicing of large areas is becoming the more common mode of working.” There were 6¼ miles of water-races, 21 dams, and 3 reservoirs.
In this year there were 11 petitions in bankruptcy, but only 1 criminal case heard at the Court.
1873. Mr. G. R. Sayle completed the survey of Charleston. The road from Westport to Charleston was constructed as far as Addison’s Flat. The Charleston Herald of 1st October stated: “There has been no meat in Charleston for three weeks.” The Lower Flat was swept by fire, and was not rebuilt.
1874. The road from Westport to Charleston was completed, and the Beach-route abandoned. The Nile bridge was washed away and a ferry operated across the river. The P.S. Result started trading to the Nile River. The old cemetery at Constant Bay was closed and a new cemetery opened on Nile Hill.
1875. A second newspaper, the Charleston News, started but did not last for long. The first suspension bridge in New Zealand was erected across the Nile River. A wharf was erected on the north side of the Nile River and the old wharf on the south side abandoned. Mrs. West’s School was opened and Mitchell’s School was closed. The Resident Magistrate reported, “population and business of all kinds has sensibly declined.”
1876. A horse-road from the Back Lead to the head gorge of the Nile River was completed, the Government making ​an appropriation of £300. Cape Foulwind Lighthouse was erected. Kumara Goldfield was discovered, and many left Charleston to join the rush to there.
1877. Provincial control had ended, and all roads, etc., were “in the hands of the County Council.” On 31st March the Warden reported: “The mining operations at Charleston . . . have assumed the aspect of permanent workings; although no longer sustaining the large floating population they did some years ago, yet in its place has been left a settled population.” There were 21 water-wheel crushers operating, also 107 hydraulic hoses, 107 ground sluices, 216 dams, and 155 miles of water-races supplying 2,730 heads of water.
1878. Croninville Goldfield was discovered.
1879. The Shepherdess, the last vessel to enter Constant Bay, was totally wrecked there.
1880. The survey plan of Charleston was issued from Wellington.
1882-1883. The number of Miners’ Rights issued was 358.
1884. The Warden’s report stated: “Charleston has undoubtedly declined during the year, both in population and prosperity.” Only 1 water-wheel crusher was operating, but 70 hydraulic hoses and 80 ground sluices were working. There were 129 miles of water-races with, however, only 265 heads of water. Also 392 dams. 507 acres were held by Agricultural leases. The number of Miners’ Rights issued was 275. From 1st April, 1883, to 31st March, 1884, 4,752 ounces of gold were recorded.
1897. The General Exploration Company began operations in the district.
1900. Rahui Post Office opened. It closed in 1921.
1903. The Goldfields’ Revenue collected at Charleston was only £59.
1905. Six water-wheel crushers were in operation. There were 116 miles of water-races with 340 heads of water, and 30 dams. The Goldfields’ Revenue was £87. Of the 80 or more hotels that existed in 1869-1870 only 3 remained. Numerous large buildings stood empty and dilapidated.
1909. Rahui School opened. It closed in 1916.