# Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 60/The First Oregon Cavalry and the Oregon Central Military Road Survey of 1865

The First Oregon Cavalry and the Oregon Central Military Road Survey of 1865
L. C. MERRIAM, JR., editor
The Oregon Central Military Road Company was organized in Eugene in April, 1864 for the purpose of constructing a road southeast from Eugene by way of the Middle Fork of the Willamette River and the most feasible pass in the Cascade Mountains near Diamond Peak, and from there to the eastern boundary of Oregon near the southeastern corner of the state. The road was to be suitable for pack trains, wagons and other conveyances, and for military transportation. If deemed necessary by the incorporators, a railroad could be constructed along the same route.
The same year, 1864, Congress and the Oregon legislature approved a land grant to the road company including alternate odd-numbered sections three sections wide on either side of the entire route. The grant was to aid in the construction of a military road and the road was to be free from toll to any property, troops or mails of the United States.
The road itself was to be a wagon road or as prescribed by the State of Oregon. Lands were to be sold to aid road construction at the rate of not more than thirty sections at a time, upon completion of each unit of ten continuous miles.
Completion was to be certified by the governor of Oregon to the Secretary of the Interior. If the road was not completed
Lieutenant J. M. McCall (circa 1862)
(Courtesy of Lydia McCall)
in five years, no further sales could be made and the land remaining unsold was to revert to the United States.
Byron J. Pengra, superintendent of construction on the Oregon Central Military Road, and surveyor-general of Oregon since 1862, was aware of the current interest of Oregonians in the Owyhee and Boise mining districts, and felt that the Oregon Central route would be a better avenue to these areas than the routes then being travelled from the Willamette Valley. Certainly it would provide a direct route for trade in supplies from Eugene, and a competitive route to the Columbia River, which channeled most of Oregon's trade with the mines through Portland.
Part of the route of the military road up the canyon of the Middle Fork of the Willamette had been surveyed in 1864 and construction work was in progress by June, 1865.
Beyond the summit of the Cascades and to the southeast, however, where the route was unexplored, it crossed the territory of hostile Snake Indians under such chiefs as Paulina. Efforts were to be made to make peace with Paulina, but to be safe, a military escort was needed for protection of the survey party.
Preparations for the military escort involved problems of supplies, pack animals, cavalry horses and adequately trained men. With the end of hostilities in the eastern United States, Major General Irvin McDowell, commanding the army's Department of the Pacific, was reluctant to authorize new operations. But the requests of Oregon's governor, Addison C. Gibbs, Senator J. W. Nesmith, and E. L. Apple gate as well as Pengra, were successful in obtaining Mc Dowell's order for a military escort of forty-eight men, pack animals and packers, in charge of one officer.
The officer detailed for the job by Col. R. F. Maury, who commanded the District of Oregon from headquarters at Fort Vancouver, was Lt. John Marshall McCall of the First Oregon Cavalry. Lieutenant McCall was suited by age and experience to the task. He was forty years old, having come from Iowa to the Yreka, California, mines in i 8So. During the fifties he mined for gold in the Jacksonville area and later operated a store in Galice Creek in Josephine County.
In 1859 he moved to Ashland where he purchased an interest in the flouring mill operated by his friend, Jacob Wagner.
A strong Union man, John McCall volunteered for the Oregon Cavalry when Company D was raised in Jackson County. He was commissioned a second lieutenant Decem ber i6, 186i, probably in the belief that his unit would be sent to the eastern battlefields. However, the War Depart ment, while mustering the men of the Oregon Cavalry into the service of the United States as volunteers, was anxious to use them to replace regular army troops removed from Oregon military posts for eastern service.
In 1862 and 1863, McCall was on expeditions with the Oregon Cavalry to aid and escort the overland immigration through the Snake River country of eastern Oregon and the Idaho Territory. He was promoted to first lieutenant in 1863. In 1864 he was with Captain J. M. Drake's expedition to southeastern Oregon. At that time McCall commanded a detachment on the Crooked River and was involved in the skirmish with Snake Indians in which Lt. Stephen Watson and three other men were killed. Col. R. F. Maury, Commanding Oregon Military Lt. D. C. Underwood of Fort Klamath (standing District-1865. (Courtesy of Lydia McCall) on left). The man on the right is probably Lt. F. B. White (circa 1863). (Courtesy of Lydia McCall)
Capt. William Kelly, 1st Oregon Lt. Col. C. S. Drew, 1st Oregon Capt. F. B. Sprague, 1st Oregon Cavalry. In Command Ft. Klam- Cavalry. Builder of Fort Klam- Infantry, for whom Sprague ath January-July, 1865, and on ath, 1863. (Courtesy Southern River is named. In Command O C M R survey with McCall. Oregon Historical Society) Ft. Klamath following Major (Courtesy of Southern Oregon Rinehart, 1866. (Courtesy of Historical Society)
Various officers of the First Oregon Cavalry circa 1862-65. Major Rinehart is at upper left. Commanding officer of Fort Klamath during Pengra Expedition, 1865. Lt. Col. Jno. M. Drake at lower left. Others unidentified. Lt. Harrison B. Oatman, lower center, served at Fort Klamath 1865-6. (Courtesy Lydia McCall)
Looking north into the Sprague River Valley from a point jus McCall's Camp No. 18, August 12, 1865, was probably in th Valley. Recent photo-June, 1958.
The Chewaucan River near Paisley, Oregon. In the vicinity o No. 23, August 19, 1865, "It is fringed with cottonwood and w in abundance." Recent photo-June, 1958.
Early in 1865, McCall was stationed in Salem on recruiting duty. From there he was ordered to Eugene in May to command the cavalry escort for the Oregon Central Military Road survey party. As the only officer with the escort, McCall was also acting quartermaster and in charge of subsistence. In these capacities he ordered all the food stores and general equipment needed for the journey and contacted Henry C. Owens of Eugene for private packers, teamsters and fifty pack animals.
McCall's final orders from Colonel Maury were dated June 27, 1865, and advised him that
As soon as your party is supplied with the necessary outfit you and your command will provide the military escort for the surveying party of the Oregon Central Military Road. You will be governed in your route by the wishes of B. J. Pengra, the chief of the surveying party, but you alone are responsible for the economy, property and safety of your command, and will, therefore, use every necessary precaution for their care and preservation. The opening of the proposed road is one of importance to Oregon; and every reasonable effort for its successful exploration is enjoined. Efforts with the same objects in view have been made in two different years directly by the Government 59 and 60, but with indifferent results . . . . The original objective of the [1860] party [Major Steens'] was to explore from Harney Lake west to Diamond Peak and Eugene City, and southeast from Harney Lake to City of Rocks intersecting the main emigrant road to California in the vicinity of the latter. . . . It is presumed that Mr. Pengra's route will be about what was then proposed. It is very desirable to have more and better information of the route generally, and especially of the latter portion. You will be particular, therefore, to take such notes of the features of the country, courses and distances travelled as will enable you to give all the necessary information in your final report. Every available opportunity will be taken to forward the required returns and to report the progress of your party . . .
Pengra and his party left ahead of the cavalry escort, having made arrangements to meet the latter at the Pine Openings east of the Cascade summit. The military escort left Eugene on July 17, 1865, the date of the first entry in Lieutenant McCall's journal.
Journel of Escort
Camp No. 1
Hd. Qrs. Mil. Escort to
Survey Party, Or. Cent.
Mil. Road
7 [miles] July 17, 1865
Moved today from encampment at Eugene City Or. seve miles. The escort consists of 45 enlisted men Co. "A" Or. Cav., i enlisted man Co. "D", i Sgt. Co. "B" Ist Cav. and i enlisted man Co. "A" ist Or. Infty. forty ei men in all. Dr. Brown an English gentleman accompa us as far as Fort Klamath. There are I9 citizen employ one having deserted.
We have 75 pack animals. Fifty animals are hired at $2. per day from Mr. H. Owens. Much delay in starting been caused in fitting up the apparajos, they all havin be stuffed. Also the lash string ropes, etc. etc. had to manufactured.
22 [total mileage]8 Camp No. 2, Is July 18, 1865
Left camp at 612 o'clock. Moved i5 mil Coast fork Willamette and also Middle f above Jordans, 2 miles. Road good. One mu and was abandoned.
28 Camp No. 3,
6 July 19, 1865
Left camp at 6 o'clock. Traveled 6
Pengra (in Report . . . Oregon Central M Dr. Robert Brown was from Victoria and w association of Edinburgh, Scotland.
Apparajos were probably pack saddles or The animals were rented at #2.50 per day 8. Two figures for mileage appear the beg entry: the top figure is the total mileage f from Eugene; the lower and lesser figure ticular day. encamp at what is called "Cabin Prairie." A poor camp. The road runs along the river and the country is generaly densely timbered.
35 Camp No. 4 Pt. Lookout
7 July 21, 1865
Left camp at 5 o'clock and I0 M. [mi about 5 miles. Here we came to where B ing on the road with his Indians.
Found it difficult to get past the wo to the quantity of timber that is cut d from Simpson's Camp is "Point Look Mr. Larrison at work on the point. I p at work to assist and in two or 3 hours for the train. Learning that the road ah timber from a recent storm, I encam 7 miles.
It is a very poor camp.
43 Camp No. 5 Big Prairie
8 July 21
Left camp at 5S Y o'clock Sent pioner party of six me repair and improve the tra I i o'clock. pack train at 3 great many of the mules f into the river with a cargo, and sugar. They were both damaged, perhaps one half of ammunition is missing. search for it. This is an exce water. Our mules are much the last few days. Traveld 8 48 Camp No. 6, Little Prairie
s July 22, 1865
Traveled 5 miles today and encamped in t 9- An emigrant road had been built along part of th Military Road route in 1853. See W. Turrentine Jack Building Grants for Early Oregon," Oregon Historical i949)> 24.
lost mule with the amnmunition was found by John Hulse cargadora.10 It had taken a blind trail in the brush and fol lowed it about a mile fromni the main trail. The mule was all right.
Sent an express back to Eugene City today to catch us at "Pine Openings" in four days.
The weather is extremely warm and sultry. The road today has not been very bad.
Camp No. 6
July 23rd 1865
Laid over today, to rest the animals, and repack cargo.
56 Camp No. 7
8 July 24, 1865
Left camp early today, I5 m. [minutes] Sent pioneer party ahead with axes and trail very bad, a great deal of side hill r by bands of cattle that have been driven part of the train got in at I2 12 o'clock n animals. An hour elapsed and no more c trouble, what hands were in were sent ba the report came that some of the anim the trail and killed.
It is now 6 o'clock and 2 animals are out So far as one horse and mule are killed, (214 lbs.) 75 lbs. flour, one keg syrup.
Some 5 or 6 of the animals fell from the 30 yds to 300 yds. down a steep rockey animals that were not killed outright se injured.
71 Camp No. 8 Pine Openings
15 July 26th
Arrived here yesterday, dist trail with one exception is pr place a few of the animals fel jured. One mule and cargo that out and two men are in search i o. Cargadora, a cargo loader with p [ 100 ]
this camp to the DeChutes without any grass and over the mountain, I have lain still today to rest the animals, adjust the cargo rigging, etc., for the trip. The pack animals are all falling off in flesh, and must lhave rest as soon as we get good feed. The men that were in search of the missing mule and cargo have return[ed] without succeeding in finding it. Some bunch grass within two miles of camp has been found that is pretty good.
The command with two days cooked rations will leave in the morning to make the trip to the Dechutes in one day.
97 Camp No. 9
26 July 27, 1865
Left camp at 7 o'clock and made camp on th River at 3 o'clock P.M., a distance of 26 mil command. The pack [train] will camp near the S three miles from the foot of the mountain. The mountain is good. Where it strikes the DeChutes I200 ft. below the Summit with a very gradual distance from here to Eugene City is estimated We met Mr. Pengra and party at this camp.11 W good.
The character of the country is flat, abounding in lakes and marshes, the higher portion of ground covered with black pine [Pinus contorta-lodgepole pine], clover grass in abundance, and great quantities of meadow grounds are in the vicinity.
July 28
The train arrived at 2 p.m. today, all right. Two mules were abandoned on the mountain. They were mules that have not been used since we started. The grass is fine here and the mules will be sufficiently recruited to [go] ahead in the morning. I am anxious to get to the Klamath Marsh to count up the wastage and replenish my supplies. The wastage and loss so far has been great, owing to the timber on the road tearing packs.
11. Pengra stated: "As I had sufficiently examined the country in this region and being still out of reach of hostile Indians . . . , I deter mined to move forward the following day . . . the escort to join us in the Klamath Country." Report. . . Oregon Central Military Road, 15.
107 Camp No. io
10 July 29
Left camp this A.M. at trail ran in an E.S.W. di Pumice stone. The timbe casionaly yellow pine. In middle fork of the DeChu wide and 2 ft. deep, cold w to get owing [to] the dead July 30 Frost and quite I24 Camp No. ii 17 July 30, 1865
Left camp at 6 a.m. The ground being not get the stock up any earlier. In one South Fork DeChutes. It is a rapid run water, about the same size of the midd over timbered ridges with soil of the sa before. Nine miles brought us to the tra Dalls to Fort Klamath, at a fine spr indications of some one with a large b camped the last night, and from char tracks and mockasin tracks accompanyin In 8 miles more we arrived at this ca Trail good. Found Mr. Odell camped h gone to Fort Klamath, with Huntingt whose camp we saw at the Spring toda I36 Camp No. I2 12 July 31 '65
Left camp at 5 A.M. Came E.S covered with scrubby pine. 9 m spring, good water and grass plen farther came to a stream following 12. J. W. P?rit Huntington was Superinte Oregon, 1863 to 1869. In 1863 Huntingt setting aside an Indian reservation sixty m line and twenty-five miles east to a point a 1,500 square miles. All persons other than trespassing. War of the Rebellion, op. cit., came to the great Klamath Marsh and encamped having travelled i2 miles. Grass abundant but the green headed horse fly is in such swarms, that our horses and other animals are almost eat up. The "Klamath Marsh" as it is called, present the appearance from our camp of a vast prairie, fringed on the W. and N. by a flat timbered country extending back to the Cascade Mountain, a distance of some 8 or ten M. To the S. and E. of the Marsh ranges of mountains are seen all covered with timber.
Camp No. 12 Klamath Marsh
August Ist 1865
Laid by today. Worked on monthly papers.'3 Sent a detachment of 3 men with Mr. Odell part of Surveying Party, to explore to N.E. of Marsh.
149 Camp No. 13 Creek running from Cascades August 2nd
Left camp at 5 a.m. Traveled I2 miles and came to Sandy Creek running from Cascade mountain. Country timbered and flat.
156 Camp No. I4 Marsh 7 August 3rd/65
Left camp at 5 A.M. Traveled 6 m turned to the left, and cut road throu Klamath Mars[h] and found good gra and water. The water is not very good August 4th 65 Went to Fort Klamath yesterday, about I2 miles. Found it pleasantly lo It is good for grass, but will not raise 13. McCall was ordered to forward required f to the Department of the Pacific (San Francis (Fort Vancouver, Washington Territory) Head of the month to Department and District hea Adjutant General of Oregon, Salem, and to W was often busy with reports.
cerials. Returned today. Major Rinehart, Lieut. Oatman and Doct. Smith accompanying me.14
August 5
Laid by today. Worked on papers and had the Apparajos all overhauled.
166 Camp No. 15 Big Spring
10 Valley
August 6 I 8 Moved camp today io S.S.W. over ridge cover camped on stream whi from the fact of its bur with the proportions valley. Some 300 or 400 14. Lt. Col. C. S. Drew dir 1863 for the protection of im activities of the Modoc and K one of cavalry and one of infa The Indian Department wa of the fort, feeling it was of it was near the trail leading under Capt. William Kelly, is had completed a road to the f op. cit., Part II, 327-28, 664-6 B. J. Pengra had arrived a Huntington on July 30, 1865, and to make friends with Ch Paulina an Indian guide for country and Indian bands to t W. V. Rinehart, ist Oregon In mand the fort; Captain Kel C. Underwood, Acting Assista of Subsistence for Fort Klam and others.
Chief Paulina would not come to the fort but agreed to meet Huntington on the Sprague River near the eastern boundary of lands claimed by the Klamath Indians. Pengra, Report. . . Oregon Central Military Road, 16-18.
August 7 Same canmp
Laid by today. Finished A.A.Q.M. and A.C.S.'6 papers and sent them to the fort. Mr. Pengra accompanied Supt. Huntington to Sprague River today where he goes for the purpose of negociating a treaty with Pelina, Chief of the Snake Indians.
180 Camp No. 16 Sprague River
14 Aug. 8
Command left camp th down Williamson River 2 n rock, extending entirely ac anid camze to Sprague R. encamped. Grass plenty al bottoms.
196 Camp No. 17 Sprague River
16 Valley, Council Ground
August 9 65
Left camp 5 '2 A.M. Traveled up S. River cross a quent intervals all along. i6 miles brought us t Huntington's Camp.16 Doct. McKay [Indian interp and some Indians out after Pelina. Pelina to be in tom at IO A.M. Quite an extensive valley, good grazing, and I think potatoes would grow, as also wheat, oats and barley. The river is not large. Can be forded at mnany places. Runs sluggish having but little fall.
From here to the East is a big field for exploration and one of the Strongholds of the hostile band of Indians that infest the Eastern portion of Oregon.
15. Acting assistant quartermaster and acting commisary of sub sistence.
16. Captain William Kelly and a guard of cavalry had arrived the previous day. Special Indian Agent Lindsay Applegate, brother of Jesse Applegate and later J. M. McCall's father-in-law, who was well ac quainted with the Klamath country, arrived to take part in the treaty. Major Rinehart was also present. Pengra, Report . . . Oregon Centra! Military Road, 24-25.
August 10th/65 Laid up today.'7 The Sup. Mr. Pengra is awaiting the result of the negociations for peace with Old Pelina. Pelina and a portion of his band came in today about Io a.m. There is now 23 all told in, some more yet to come. Thev are miserable lot of looking rascals. Apparently capable of com miting almost any fiendish act. There wardrobe is in a seedy condition, giving evident token that they have either been very unsuccessful in their recent plundering excursions or else they have a cache in the mountains somewhere. They bring news of the willingness of other hostile bands to make terms of peace.
August 11th 65
Laid by today. No negotiations with Pelina as yet. Is expected tomorrow if some crochet of the Indian Sup. does not prevent.
203 Camp No. 18
7 August 12, 1865
Moved camp today up the valley, 7 m. Sprague river. Delayed myself to hear terms o Pelina. Pelina submited to everything Mr. H. proposed. Had nothing bad to say. Would say nothing bad. Was not going to bring up old memories and old animosities, but would bury all.
17. "During my stay at Fort Klamath I was shown an order received by Capt. Kelly [in command of Fort Klamath December, 1864 to July, 1865] from Gen. McDowell directing Capt. Kelly to be in readiness to furnish any escort or assistance to my party which I should require and the circumstances permit. Major Rinehart expressed readiness to render any assistance in his power.
"Feeling the necessity that existed of completing exploration of country north from Col. Drew's route to the desert lying between the Harney Lake Basin and the DesChutes and to examine the route passed over by him on his return, so as to be able to decide how to proceed with surveys on my return, I determined to divide my party and proceed in two separate divisions. As we were now in hostile Indian land and the command under Lt. McCall was not large enough to divide with safety, I asked Major Rinehart for an additional force on 10th of August. Capt. Kelly with 40 add. mounted cavalry reported to me for service on the 13th." Pengra, Report. . . Oregon Central Military Road, 25.
He was apparently sincere in his professions and may possibly stick to what he has said and agreed to. Same camp August 13th 1865
Went back in company with Mr. Pengra to the Counc ground to witness the consumation of the treaty and d tribution of presents. The treaty was first signed by Hun ington and then by Pelina and his old men. "Making the mark." The Sup. then distributed to each one present o Salem Gray Blanket-to each man a shirt, pair of pants bucher knife, and to the women, some white cotton cloth, calico, bead, etc. and to the Chief for general distribution, fish lines, fish hooks, etc. etc.
H. then told Pelina he was willing and anxious to trea with the other hostile bands of Snakes, and wishes him send them word to that effect. P. said Wee ow-wee wo was encamped on the S. W. side of Stein Mountain [Stee Mountain], that he could send him a messenger in 3 da ride. That he would do so. That he (P) and Wee-ow-wee-wow used to be of one heart and that he thought he would b willing to treat also.
211 Camp No. 19 Sprague
8 River Valley
August 14th 65
Left camp this A.M. at 6 o'clock 4 m. and came to main branch o followed up. The first mile the hi to the creek. Abundance of quakin the margin of the stream. After t receded, and a valley 2 or 3 m. wi In the distance to E. prominen apparently shuting in the valley rounding country from a neigh grassy vallies and hills were s camped on the N. side of Sprag crossed it. The valley and surrou with grass, and ajacent hills with Mr. Pengra has employed as g Pelina's tribe whom we have nam
Wm. H. Seward [the Secretary of State], and as interpreters for the guide two other 3 in all.'8 The Snake can only talk Snake, have a Klamath-Snake that can talk Snake and Klamath, and Indian Charley that can talk Klamath and also jargon and pretty fair English. So that it comes through 2 mediums before [we] get the important information the Snake has to give us.
August 15, 65
Laid by waiting for the arrival of Capt. Kelley. Capt. arrived at 3 P.M. today. The Escort will be divided here. Capt. K. under the direction and as Escort to Mr. O'Dell, and myself as Escort to Mr. Pengra. Mr. O. goes by Col. Drew's return road from Stein Mountain. Pengra will go to north toward Silver Lake.
231 Camp No. 20
20 August i6th 65
Left camp at 5 14 A.M. Took th Yreka to Canyon City, Capt. Kelley Road.'9 Made arrangements to endeavo Valley. We traveled about 20 m. ma east and the rest north. We find th with rocky table land, timber and very scarce. Had to leave the road direction of Summer Lake to find w some 5 miles found water standing sufficient quantities for train of 75 a 18. "I employed two [Indians] as guides and also employed by Capt. Kelly for the sam English sufficiently well to be generally u Indian of Paulina's band. The other was f whose mother was Snake." Pengra, Report. Road, 27.
19. "16th August 1865?The commands separated this morning, Mr. Odell and Capt. Kelly taking the return route of Col. Drew. I formed directly north with the command of Lt. McCall for the purpose of ex amining country on a line east from the north end of the Klamath Marsh, bordering the desert." Pengra, Report... Oregon Central Military Road, 27.
240 Camp No. 2I
9 Summer Lake Valley
Aug. 17th '65
Left camp at 712 A.M. waiting for the pack it good policy to keep as close together as pr Our course was to the north for 4'2 miles into Summer Lake Valley [probably Sycan the spring and as late as June is covered wit this season so far as we could see was dry. band inhabit a similar country immediate this. A small stream puts into the valley after meandering through this valley runs canon and forms the N. fork of the Sprague a junction about 6 M above the Council gro We moved up the valley some 5 M and are eastern extremity of it. Our several guides to pilot us across the mountains to the East t run the other way into some lake. The dist is rather indefinite as they have no idea of d they measure it by riding or walking a day. Charley who talks some English thinks it it may be 25 miles, he does not know. He nev over himself.
The grass in the main portion of this Valley is all eaten off by the grasshoppers. The soil seems good and I think, lower, and warmer than the Klamath Marsh.
254 Camp No. 22
14 Boneen Lake. Clouds.
Killed mule today. [in margin] August 18th Left camp at 7 X A.M. Course N.N.E. For rocky when we struck the timber and followin good traveling. After traveling some I2 mile the time we arrived on the verge of the moun our feet and apparently 2000 feet below us commenced decending, at first very abrup decending 2 or 300 yards it became more ge traveling for 34 of an hour down, down, ca flat with good water and grass, where we enc
night. We find thimbleberries and wild plums here, but no indications whatever of any kind of game.
We are not able to locate this lake, and are of the opinion that it has not before been discover[ed]. We name it "Lake Surprise."20
269 Camp No. 23 -Che Wau Kan
15 Aug. igth 65
Left camp at 7 /2A.M. waiting for pack brought us down to the lake. The hills covered with bunch grass. Found some pra lake. Our course was a little East of South of the lake for some 7 M, fine brooks of in from the mountain and luxuriant gr and streams flowing in.
The course of the basin is [blank] with M[ountains] to the S.W. Along the base led the trail. And 6 miles more we arrived Creek, the Indian name. It is a fine stream West. Heading in near the head waters It is fringed with cottonwood and will abundance.21
289 Camp No. 24
20 Aug. 20th 65
Left camp at 714 A.M. Traveling valley of the Che Wau Kan for 20 at the road leading from Red Bluff ley to Canyon City and encampe bad, it being the same creek we running through marshes and alkal Here we found quite a number o friendship and belonging to the Ch 20. This was probably Summer Lake, and Winter Ridge to the west of Summer La taken the Sycan Marsh for Summer Lake.
21. "The creek abounds in fish of which Sergeant Conn of Douglas County caugh Pengra, Report. . . Oregon Central Militar 22. Pengra, Report. . . Oregon Central was a chief of one of the bands of Snake I
Had a thunderstorm and heavy rain in the evening. An immense mountain rising abruptly some I 500 feet lies directly to the S.E. of us. In the S. is apparently a low pass toward the Goose Lake Valley.
302 Camp No. 25 Mud Lake
13 M. Sierra Neuve [Abert Rim]
Killed mule. [in margin] Aug. 2I
Left camp at 8 A.M. Traveled to N. on the E. side of t Lake [Lake Abert] following the old Reading trail for 9 when we took over the mountain to the East. The trail exceedingly steep and rockey. Several of the mules fell an one was crippled so badly it had to be killed. Two hou brought the train to the top of the mountain. Travelin miles to the East we came to a pond of water, highly colo by clay but pretty good to use. The grass is quite good the vicinity and juniper close by for wood. An Ind representing himself as one of old How Luks came with u from last camp, was our pilot over the mountain. He s Capt. Kelly shot at some of How Luk's men a few d ago in Goose Lake Valley while they were hunting antelop He says How Luk is anxious to make a treaty and wan to know how long it will be before he can see Huntington 319 Camp No. 26 Sage Plane
17 August 22/65
Left camp at 8 A.M. Course East IO table land declining to the East. The fi mostly of sandstone formation. Passi the right we passed of[fl to the East some 7 M. when we came to the dry our Snake guide evidently expected t creek was as dry as a powder horn.
Passing down the creek some h4 of of water were found. Mr. P. went to lies directly to the East of us, and precipice to view. Before he returne having concluded there was possibly halt. Mr. P. returned in a short time [ III ] found some Mud Lakes similar to the one [where] we en camped last night with good grass in the vicinity. Quite a prominent mountain lies to the N.W. that I do not know.
334 Camp No. 27 Mud Lake
15 MI. Sage Plane Aug. 23rd '65
Left camp at 6:40 A.M. Our stock was taken some 3 miles distant down the creek to where there was a Mud Lake and good grass. Our course was for the first 4 M. to the E. then almost due N. for some 6 or 7 M. This was done in order to get around a succession of Lakes [Warner Valley] that seem to lay along the basin rising up to [a] hill on the S. E. side. The mountain that lies [on the] southern line of the Valley is what we take to be Warner Mountain [now Hart Mountain], and rises abruptly to height of IOOO or I500 feet, rendering it apparently impossible to risk ascend or decend anywhere in sight to the South. I think Stein Mountain is not more than 25 nm. to the E. across Warners Mountain.
We rounded the Lake and encamped on it for the night. Water alkali, grass poorly. [margin]
340 Camp No. 28
6 NI Aug. 24th 65
Course E.
Left camp at 7 A.M. not waiting for the train having to to acend one of those precipitate Bluffs [rising] to the East out of this almost interminable sage plane and which had to be worked on.
We reached the hill in about 4 M4. travel and with a little work made a good passable road. On reaching the summit and looking toward the E. in the direction I had expected to find Stein Mounitain I was astonished to find two distinct ranges running paralel N. & S. the further one looming up a great deal higher than I recolected Stein Mountain to be.
I was somewhat bewildered, as also was Mr. Pengra. After waiting some hour and a half for the train to reach the summit I moved forward in the direction of the mountain, and found after traveling not more than X2 M. that the
nearer mountain had entirely disappeared and Stein Mountain was plainly in view, but apparently not nearly so high.
We are only able to account for this, to us strange phenomanon, by ascribing it to the effects of mirage or light and shade. I should remark that our Indian guide was no less astonished and puzzled than Mr. P. and myself. He said the first mountain he had been at but the further one he knew nothing about. Our course today has been almost due E. Traveled 6 M. and camped on a creek, the water standing in holes, but good. The grass is also good, but is not more than 30 yards wide along the creek, the country on either side as far as one can see being a sage plane without grass.
August 24 [5?]th 1865
Laid up today to rest and recruit stock.
352 Camp No. 29
12 Rye Creek, Or.
Aug. 26th 1865
Left camp at 712 A.M. and traveled some I 2 miles and encamped. Fou holes along the creek at intervals but The wind blew a gale nearly all day agreeable to travel. Stein and Pueblo view to the East and S.E.
I deemed it prudent to keep the Ca [gathered together] to-night for the f An Indian that Mr. Pengra employ mountain appeared to be very uneas deal of anxiety about something, ri the horizon incesantly as if he expe evening he started a fire on the ba put out. This together with the fact vicinity of Stein Mountain where ba live made me somewhat suspicious.
373 Camp No. 30 Stein M.
2I M. August 27
Left camp 734 A.M. Our course w almost level plane with sage brush [ II31 grass and mud lakes alternating for 2I M. which brought us to Col. Drews camp at the west base of the Pueblo mountain, which he left on the 30 of Sept. last. Found a good camp.
Aug. 28th 1865
Laid up today, awaiting the arrival of Mr. O'Dell and Capt. Kelly.
About i2 M. [noon] a dust was discovered in the direction that we had come, and at the same time some Indians were seen riding along the base of the mountain and coming to wards camp. Not knowing what might occur I had the horses brought in, and sent one of our Indian guides out to meet those approaching.
They proved to be some Piutes, and manifested a dis position to be friendly, and said those coming the dust of which we saw was soldiers, which proved to [be] so. In a few minutes Mr. O'Dell and ten men of Capt. Kelley's command came into camp.23
They had followed our trail from Camp No. [blank] They were unable to cross the Lake in Warner Valley, and had to go north to get around it. We will start back in the morning.
Our Piutes prove to be incessant beggars, as I write they are around me all the time wanting something. 396 Camp No. 3I Drews Butte
23 Homeward Bound Aug. 29 Left camp at 714 A.M. On our homeward b Our course was to N. side of Drew's Butte takin course, thereby saving some 2 or 3 m. on Dre Found the road good except about one m. tha 23. "Captain Kelley awaited the return of Mr. Odell's esc ner's Valley] and moved back to Honey Creek where we jo days later." August 31, 1865. See Pengra, Report . . . O Military Road, 44.
24. "After consultation with Mr. Odell as to the nature o along the Col. Drew Route, decided to adopt Col. Drew Rou one to head of Sprague's River Valley." Pengra, Report. . . O Military Road, 44.
what rocky. 23 m. brought us to a good camp at the N. side of the Butte.
The Butte is quite an important landmark, as the country around for a circle of 30 or 40 m. can be seen from its summit. Numerous fine springs of good water flow from it, with good grass, thereby making a good stoping place for travelers. The great Harney Basin is in a direction N.E. from here, and I judge Harney Lake is some 40 m. distant. The Guano Lake spoken of by Col. Drew25 can be seen from the summit of the Butte and appears to be 30 m. to the S. The Pueblo Mountain rises boldly out of the plane away to the S. of Stein.
From an observation taken by Mr. O'Dell our camp No. 30 is 29 m. N.[orth] of State line. They commenced the survey of the mil. road this morning."
4I6 Camp No. 32
20 Eastern Base Warners Mt.
Pine Grove Creek
Aug. 31st 1865
Left camp 7:35 A.M. Our course was nearly W 800 of S. [S. 800 W.] over the trail traveled by Drew.
This is as pleasant a camp as I have found on th A stream of excellent water made from springs risin a M. to N. in the mountain runs through a small v good soil and grass. A small grove of pine timber hea valley, while Warner's Mountain covered with gras gently from the Western margin with those green s the N. side of the little declivities that indicate th recent presence of snow. In fact some few spots o 25. "By digging holes along its banks we obtained water endurable for cooking purposes but not at all palatable to drink. named as its character suggested, Guano Lake." C. S. Drew, " Report of Col. Drew's Owyhee Expedition," in Oregon Sentinel ( ville), February 18, 1865.
26. "We did not commence a measurement of the route until arrived at Beaties (Drews) Buttes, the end of our first day's tra the homeward stretch. . . ." Pengra, Report. . . Oregon Central Road, 45.
are still to be seen. Wartner's M. like Stein's M. seem to be entirely detached from the other ranges, standing out oni the desert in bold relief, with its own system of springs and streams and lakes.
43I Camp No. 33 Western Base
IS Mt. Warner's Valley, Or.
Aug. 31st 1865
Left our camp at 7:25 A.M. Our road was for 5 or thro valleys made by streams putting in from the m and running to the S.E. but rough and rocky after st the breaks of Warner Valley.27 The decent for abou of rocky hill brought us into Warner Valley which point we entered in appears to be a tule swamp w quent alkaline deposites along the margin. Travelli the valley 3 M. we encamped. Found water in springs along the base of the rocky bluff that lines the ma the valley.
The grass in places is excellent.
This is the same valley or trough in which our camps No. 26 and 27 are located, and up which Capt. Kelly has gone, not being able to cross the Lake with his wagons. If Col. Drew had gone up on the west side of the lakes he could have got up without any difficulty.
44I Camp No. 34 Honey Creek IO Warner's Valley Sep. 1st 65
Left camp 7Y A.M. Three M. brought us to the Lake or what might more properly be called Tulle Marsh.
We found it very difficult to get a crossing. After exploring some distance a place was selected and operations commenced to construct a passage out of tulle and caine.
The place selected was where there was a small island.
The distance bridged including both sides of the island was 27. "The valley we named for Captain Warner, Topographic Engineer, U. S. Army, whom we at first supposed was killed Sept. 9, 1849, in the main canyon putting into it from the south." Drew, Oregon Sentinel, February 11, 1865. Warner was actually killed in Surprise Valley to the south.
about 300 yds. Some places the water was 20 ft. deep. We made a complete floating bridge and in five hours from the commencement of opperations the train and detachment were all on the West Side without doing any material injury to anything.
By going a mile to N. a better crossing could have been got. After crossing 8 m. brought us to Honey Creek, so named from the fact of a deposit of sacharin matter on the leaves of the willows and rose bushes along the stream. 456 Camp No. 35
Is 5Honey Creek No. Sep. 2d 1865
14 miles travel over for the most land, after rising the bluff, brought on Honey Creek. It is high up in the camp. How Luk mountain is direct are just at its base. To our right fr creek is a range of hills some 8 or name the "Stratton Hills."28 To the N. some i6 or 18 miles is ou our outward trip going to the N. o and now going South of it.
"How Luk" Mountain like Warne tain stands out in relief, isolated and as a prominent peak on these high ta Sunday, same camp
Sep. 3 1865
Laid up to-day. Was busy at papers and issuing clothing. 472 Camp No. 36 Pass S. of 16 "How Luk Mountain"
Sep. 4 1865
Traveled i6 miles today which brought us to the Summit of the table land. Our road has been alternating between rocky ridges and grassy glades.
28. Stratton Hills were named for Riley E. Stratton, President of the Oregon Central Military Road Company. How Luk Mountain is probably what is now called Crook's Peak.
Found a pleasant camp with good grass in a little valley with the hills on either side covered with pine timber, the first from Steins M. except a small grove on the East of Warner M. Our course was S. of E.
489 Camp No. 37 West side
17 Goose Lake Valley, Or.
Sep. 5, 1865
Some 3 m. travel up a grassy glade brought us to the summit. Came West. A gentle decline for about 5 m. through wooded gulches brought us out into the main Goose Lake Valley. Six miles to the West over rolling hills and we were on the west side of the Lake. Our course was S. over some low hills to a small stream where we encamped. Making a distance of 17 m.
Goose lake Valley is bounded on the E. by a high range of mountains with here and there good passes, and on the W. by a lower range of mountains with similar easy passes through. The valley is composed of good soil. All the hills are covered with good bunch grass and the bottom land on some of the creeks as good soil as I ever looked at. The mountains on either side of the valley are covered with good pine timber.
So6 Camp No. 38
17 Head Drews Valley Or.
Sep. 6th 1865
Left camp at 7:20 A.M. Four m. S. over the ravines putting in from the M. [mountains] brought us to the pass [Drews Gap] from Goose Lake Valley to Drews Valley.29 Five miles over a gradual ascending and descending ridge and down a ravine and we were fairly in Drews Valley. The last 4 [?] miles our course was W. We now turned to N. and encamped at the extreme head of the valley. Trav eled 8 mi., in all 17. Drews Valley is some I2 or I m. long by I 2 wide and good soil. Some of land on first entering it from the East is not prepossing [prepossessing], but covered with sage and rockey somewhat. Where the waters of this valley run is still and open question. 29. Drew's Valley, named for Lt. Col. C. S. Drew, ist Oregon Cavalry. [ I18] SI 8 Camp No. 39 Hd. Sprague I2 River Valley. Sep. 7 1865 Left camp at 8 A.M. 3 m. brought us to Sum Here we attempted to make (at the head of "cutoff" to the right or N., but failed and turne the old road. Three or 4 m. travel and we were i of Sprague River at camp known as the pine were somewhat surprised to find Capt. Sprag expedition already outfitted for Horse Creek Stein Mountain at the camp with orders for to send all his men back with him and accom escort to Fort Klamath.30 It seems Col. Curry31 has ordered a camp to be at Horse Creek and also one at Indian Spring n Lake.
Sep. 8
Laid up today to wait for Capt. Kelly.32 532 Camp No. 40 14 Sep. 9
Left camp at 8 A.M. Trave Left the waggon road to the on the old road. Sent Det. i all unserviceable animals Sprague River, wood, willow 30. Capt. Franklin B. Sprague (for was ordered to examine the rout Alvord and possibly establish commu of the Adjutant General of the State 31. Col. George B. Currey, ist Or of the Oregon military district in la Maury. War of the Rebellion, op. c 32. Earlier orders had been sent f to return to that fort after conduc safe for its return. Captain Kelly w unit to Fort Klamath. On Septembe of the entire escort as one unit. Ho that his wagons and teams could no and because Pengra was anxious to again divided, McCall going with Pen Correspondence and papers of J. torical Society.
Same camp Sunday
Sep. 10
Laid up today. Corp. Drain33 sick and sent to waggon
to be taken to fort. Got Express from Fort. S S I Camp No. 41 18 Sep. 11
Left camp at 7Y A. M. crossing Canyon City ro same course in about 8 m river. Crossing this and r bearing a little more to rocky ground, and then at a small glade in the p grass, and plenty of wood The weather is f [fairly] very comfortable. This t 571 Camp No. 42 East side 20 Klamath M. [marsh] Sep. 12 Left camp 7:20 A.M. Our course was abou pine ridges and pumice stone soil for 20 m. w a small creek running into the marsh and e camp. Nights cold. 577 Camp No. 43 Klamath 6 Marsh East side Sep. 13 1865
Traveled 6 M. and came to the main marsh at a point known as La-Lake's Camp. This is a great resort of the Klamath Indians in summer and fall of the year for the purpose of gathering wocus or the seed of the pond lilly.34 The soil on the East side of the marsh is not so good for grazing purposes as that on the other side. Our camp No. 33' John C. Drain. See Report of the Adjutant General. . . , 1865-6, 138. 34. "Ponds are covered with pond lilly and tule. The former is called by the Indians wo-kus, bears a pod the size of a common apple, soft shell?filled with seed the size of a large grain of wheat. They are gathered for food in August and September." Pengra, Report. . . Oregon Central Military Road, 50.
13 is directly opposite on the WV. side. The Indians have now about finished their harvest of the wocus and have gone to the vicinity of fort Klamath to erect their winter houses. Our survey party find that the route by which we approached the marsh is not good being to far to the N. to meet the west point of crossing and are going back to survey in from a point lower down on Sprague River. 584 Camp No. 44 Klamath 7 Marsh Sep. I4 Our camp of last night was not g move to-day further to the S. Tra final leg to fort and struck an arm to the E. where we found a good cam This arm of the marsh from M proves to extend almost through to Sep. iS Laid up today awaiting the arrival of the surveyors. Surveyor did not arrive.
Camp No. 45
Sep. 16, 65
The surveyors arrived this A.M. at 8 2 o'clock. We immediately made preparations to strike camp and moved at i i. Our course was S. some 4 M. to ford on Williamson's river and then directly up the river I 2 M. and encamped. Here Mr. Pengra and party left us going on some dis tance farther to camp. I will send a detachment of io M. [men] with iO days rations to escort him to the DeChutes, he having relieved myself and balance of escort from further duty.35 I parted with Mr. Pengra and party with regrets as our trip throughout has been one of uninterrupted good feeling and fellowship. Our route outward from Hd. S river 35? "Here we separated from Lt. McCall, who returned to winter quarters at Ft. Klamath, leaving 5 men under Sgt. Cathcart to accom pany me to the Deschutes. I cannot well let this opportunity pass with out expressing the deep gratitude due Lt. McCall, for the energetic manner, watchful care, and soldierly bearing'with which he conducted his part of the expedition. Always courteous, obliging and companionable, it was with no small regret that we parted from him." Pengra, Report. . . Oregon Central Military Road, 52. [ 121 ] [head of Sprague River] to the base of Stein Mountain was over a district of country heretofore unexplored and where we were sometimes inconvenienced for the want of good water or grass, but it was born as a matter of course, and scarcely a murmer was ever heard. The exploration and location of the Mil. road in a military point of view is one of vast importance. It passes directly through the homes of the bands of Indians that are or have been hostile, and that have been commiting and still are commiting depre dations on the frontier settlements extending from the Owyhee via Burnt river, Canyon City and across to Goose Lake and Surprise Valley and the Pueblo District. If this road is completed it at once opens a highway or thoroughfare into the heart of their homes, where troops can be rapidly thrown into their midst, and experience of all Ind ian warfare goes to prove that that is the place to strike them. By establishing a small military post in the Northern end of Goose Lake Valley, a large district of country would be protected, and made accessable for settlemets.
Fort Klamath
Sep. 17, 65
Arrived at Fort K. All safe With the party's safe arrival at the fort, McCall ended his journal of escort. He spent the winter of i 86S-66 at Fort Klamath, and was promoted to captain. After being mus tered out of the service in August, 1866 at Fort Vancouver, he returned to the Wagner and McCall flouring business in Ashland, and he had a long and substantial career in Ash land and state public affairs.36 36. In 1867 McCall helped found the Rogue River Valley Woolen Manufacturing Company at Ashland, becoming the first president of the woolen mills. He married Theresa R. Applegate in 1868 and in the same year started a drygoods business which he operated until shortly before his death in November, 1895. Active in Ashland affairs, McCall was first treasurer of the town and later mayor. He served in the Oregon legislature in 1876 and 1891, and was appointed brigadier general of militia by Governor Z. F. Moody in 1883. His first wife died in 1875 and in 1876 he married Mary E. Anderson Brown, a widow. Both were active in the Grand Army of the Republic and in the promotion of Ashland, Oregon. [ I22] The road surveying party, after separating from McCall and concluding their exploration, returned to Eugene late in the fall of 1865. At that time Pengra made a report to the president and directors of the company concerning the status of the road. With the exception of ferries and bridges, the twenty miles of road from Eugene to Butte Disappoint ment were reported as completed, as were forty and a quarter of the forty-four and three-quarters miles from Butte Disappointment to the Pine Openings in the Cascade Mountains. In his opinion, said Pengra, the forty miles of road in the Cascades had been more expensive to build than the balance of the road to the eastern boundary of the state would be.37 The initial thirty sections of road grant land had been sold in March, 1865.38 Since much of the land granted to the company along its route in the Willamette Valley has previously been occupied by settlers, the com pany desired to have the government grant other land in lieu of the settled lands. Pengra mentioned another problem concerning the selling of grant lands to aid in road con struction: east of the Cascades the land had not yet been surveyed in 186S, and therefore could not be offered for sale even if the adjoining parts of the road were completed.39 Most of these difficulties were overcome, however. Con gress allowed the selection of lieu lands where the road passed through the settled area in the Willamette Valley. Surveying was begun in the Klamath Reservation, though the road company ran into difficulty over the 93,ooo acres of grant land along the route through the reservation. The Indian agents were strongly opposed to the transfer of reservation land to a private corporation, and Congress reduced the land allotment on the reservation proper, though allowing selection elsewhere.
Though the time of the road's completion was extended to 1872, the Oregon Central Military Road was never ade quately completed nor greatly used. Pengra, later president
37- Pengra, Report. . . Oregon Central Military Road, 5-6.
38. Jackson, "Federal Road Building Grants for Early Oregon," O?t L:a4.
39. Pengra, Report. . . Oregon Central Military Road, 54-56. of the Company, attempted to promote the construction of a railroad along the road route to connect with the Central Pacific Railroad at Winnemucca, Nevada, but this project also failed.40 Taxes imposed a heavy burden on the company, and in 1873 the Oregon Central Military Road holdings were sold to the Pacific Land Company of San Francisco.41
40. H. H. Bancroft, History of Oregon (San Francisco, 1888), II .705.
41. Jackson, "Federal Road Building Grants for Early Oregon," OHQ, L:3-29.
* ↑ The operations of the military escort of the Oregon Central Military Road survey party were recorded in the journal of Lt. John Marshall McCall, Company A, 1st Oregon Cavalry, commander of the escort. The journal printed here was carefully preserved for many years by Lieutenant McCall's daughter, Miss Lydia McCall of Ashland, Oregon. Recently, along with other military, personal and business papers of John McCall, this journal was given to the Oregon Historical Society.
* ↑ Byron J. Pengra, Report of the Recent Surveys and Progress of Construction of the Oregon Central Military Road (Eugene City, 1865), 59-61.
* ↑ In the summer of 1864, Lt. Col. C. S. Drew, ist Oregon Cavalry, led an expedition from Fort Klamath eastward through the Goose Lake and Warner valleys to the Alvord Valley and found a suitable route of travel to the Owyhee region, which could be used by persons going to the Owyhee from southern Oregon and northern California. His report, published in the Jacksonville Sentinel in January, February, and March, 1865, stimulated local interest in a direct route from Jacksonville to the Owyhee via the existing road to Fort Klamath. A petition was started in Jacksonville to obtain military protection to open the route, and people in Eugene, Roseburg and Yreka were asked to help in preventing the Red Bluff and Shasta City parties from securing a public route from northern California. See Oregon Sentinel (Jacksonville), February 18, March 11, 1865.
* ↑ Pengra, Report. . . Oregon Central Military Road, 6-7.
* ↑ R. N. Scott, et al, eds., War of the Rebellion: a Compilation of the Official Records of the Union and Confederate Armies (130 vols., Washington, 1880-1901), Series I, Vol. L, Part I, 632-33.
* ↑ War of the Rebellion, Series I, Vol. L, Part I, 329-46.
* ↑ War of the Rebellion, Series I, Vol. L, Part II, 1270-71.
* ↑ From Company D, 1st Oregon Cavalry was Private John Medley, a saddler needed to help with saddle mending, etc. Sgt. Green C. Patton was the man from Company B. Private Alexander C. Craig, of Company A, 1st Oregon Infantry, was acting hospital steward for the escort.