# Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management/Chapter XV

RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
693.—BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. (See. Veal Stew.)
694.—BOUDINETTES OF VEAL. (Fr.—Boudinettes de Veau.)
Ingredients.—6 ozs. of lean cooked veal, 2 oz. of cooked lean ham or tongue, 1 tablespoonful of grated cheese, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 yolk of egg, salt and pepper, pig's caul, 2 or 3 lb. of spinach, ½ a pint of good gravy, meat glaze.
Method.—Wash, pick, cook and rub the spinach through a fine sieve (see Vegetables). Mince the veal and ham very finely, put them into a small stewpan with 1 tablespoonful of the spinach purée, the cheese, cream, and yolk of egg, season to taste, stir and cook very slowly for 3 or 4 minutes, then turn on to a plate to cool. Cut the caul into pieces 3½ inches square, shape the mixture into squares of 1½ inches diameter, fold them in the pieces of caul, and bake them for 7 or 8 minutes in a moderate oven. Put the spinach into a stewpan with 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy, dredge with a little flour, season well with salt and pepper and re-heat, and then arrange in an oblong form in the centre of a hot dish. Brush the boudinettes over with liquid meat glaze, arrange them neatly as squares, or diamond wise on the spinach, and pour round the remainder of the hot gravy.
Time.—20 to 25 minutes, after the spinach is cooked. Average Cost, 1s 10d. to 2s. Sufficient for 6 persons.
695.—BRAIN CAKES. (Fr.—Gâteaux de Cervelles de Veau.)
Ingredients.—Calf's brains, 1 small onion sliced, 1 bay-leaf, 6 peppercorns, 2 or 3 eggs, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt and pepper, vinegar.
Method.—Wash the brains in salt and water, remove the skin and fibres, and let them remain in salt and water until wanted. When the calf's head is cooking they may be tied in muslin and boiled with it for about 20 minutes. When cooked seperately, they must be put ​into a stewpan with as much water as will cover them, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, the slices of onion, peppercorns and bay-leaf, and cooked gently for the same length of time, or until firm. When cool, chop finely, season well with salt and pepper, and add as much beaten egg as is necessary to bind the ingredients together. Stir over the fire until the mixture thickens, and when cool form into small round cakes, coat them with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until lightly browned in hot fat.
Time.—1 hour altogether. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d., exclusive of the brains. Sufficient to garnish 1 dish, or, when served as a separate dish, for 3 or 4 persons.
696.—VEAL À LA ROMAINE. (Fr.—Poitrine de Veau à la Romaine.)
Ingredients.—A breast of veal, 1 lb. of sausage meat, ½ a lb. of Carolina rice, 1 tablespoonful of grated cheese, 1½ pints of stock, 1 large onion sliced, 1 carrot sliced, ½ a small turnip sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, pepper and salt.
Method.—Remove all bones and tendons, trim neatly, and season well with salt and pepper. Spread the sausage meat evenly over the inner surface, roll up lightly, and bind securely with string. Place the bones and trimmings in a stewpan just large enough to contain the meat, add the prepared vegetables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and a good seasoning of salt. Place the meat on the top, add water to nearly cover the vegetables, lay a greased paper on the meat, and put on a close-fitting lid. Cook very gently, basting frequently and adding more water or stock when necessary. Boil the rice in salted water for 10 minutes, drain well, replace in the stewpan, and add the BOILING stock. Simmer gently until the stock becomes absorbed, then season to taste. When the meat has cooked for 2 hours remove it from the stewpan, strain and replace the stock, add the prepared rice, and put back the meat. Cover with a greased paper as before, cook gently for 40 minutes longer, then take up the meat and remove the tape. Stir the cheese into the rice, place it on a hot dish, lay the meat on the top, and serve. The appearance of the meat is improved by brushing it lightly over with glaze. Variety may be introduced by forming the rice into croquettes, in which case it should be cooked in stock, mixed with one or two eggs, and when cold, shaped and fried in hot fat.
Time.—About 3 hours. Average Cost, 1s., exclusive of the veal. Sufficient or 8 or more persons, according to size. Seasonable at any time.
697.—BREAST OF VEAL STEWED WITH PEAS. (Fr.—Poitrine de Veau aux Petits Pois.)
Ingredients.—Breast of veal, forcemeat balls (see No. 396.), oz. of ​butter, 1 oz. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped onion, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 allspice, 6 peppercorns, and a thin strip of lemon-rind (all these should be tied in a piece of muslin), a few rashers of bacon, 1 pint of shelled peas, 1 or 2 ozs. of dripping, salt and pepper.
Method.—Wipe the meat with a clean damp cloth, and cut it into pieces convenient for serving. Melt the dripping in a stewpan, and fry the meat until lightly browned; fry the onion for 2 or 3 minutes, then drain off all the fat. Have ready as much boiling stock or water as will just cover the meat, put it into the stewpan, with the herbs, cloves, mace, allspice, peppercorns, and lemon-rind, add a liberal seasoning of salt, cover closely, and simmer gently for nearly 2 hours. Meanwhile roll the bacon and run a skewer through it, prepare the forcemeat as directed but make it less moist than when intended for stuffing, shape it into balls the size of a walnut, and either fry or bake them until crisp and brown in a little hot butter or fat; the bacon may be cooked at the same time. When the meat has stewed for 2 hours put in the peas, cook until nearly tender, then add the butter and flour (kneaded smoothly together) in very small portions. Continue the cooking until the peas are ready, then take out the herbs, etc., put in the ketchup, tomato sauce, lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve garnished with the forcemeat balls and rolls of bacon.
Time.—About 3 hours. Average Cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
698.—BREAST OF VEAL, STEWED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients.—Breast of veal, 2 onions, 2 small carrots, 1 very small turnip, 12 peppercorns, salt, parsley or piquante sauce (see Sauces).
Method.—Put the veal into a saucepan with as much cold water as will cover it, bring to the boil, skim well, add the vegetables cut into dice, and peppercorns, salt to taste, cover closely, and simmer gently for 2½ or 3 hours. To serve, pour a little sauce over the veal, and send the remainder to table in a tureen.
Time.—From 2½ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to 10d. per lb. Sufficient, allow 4 lb. for 8 or 9 persons.
699.—BREAST OF VEAL ROLLED AND STEWED
Ingredients.—A breast of veal, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), rolls of fried bacon, forcemeat balls, lemon.
Method.—Remove the bones and tendons (boil the former down for gravy (see recipes for cooking tendons). Flatten the meat with the ​cutlet bat or rolling pin, season well with salt and pepper, spread on a thin layer of forcemeat, roll up tightly, and bind firmly with tape. Have ready boiling in a saucepan sufficient stock or water to cover the joint; if water is used, 1 onion, 1 carrot, ½ a turnip, and a little celery and seasoning should be added when the water boils. Bring to the boil, skim well, and simmer gently for 3 or 3½ hours, according to size. Meanwhile prepare the gravy (see Gravies), forcemeat balls, and rolls of bacon. When sufficiently cooked, remove the meat to a hot dish, take away the tapes, and garnish with the forcemeat balls, rolls of bacon and cut lemon. When the veal is not a good colour a little of the brown gravy may be used to partially mask it, otherwise serve the whole in a tureen.
Time.—From 3½ to 4 hours altogether. Average Cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient, allow 4 lb. for 5 or 6 persons.
700.—CALF'S BRAINS, FRIED. (Fr.—Cervelles de Veau frites.)
Ingredients.—1 or 2 Calf's brains, vinegar, 1 small onion. For the batter: 2 ozs. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of salad oil, ½ a gill of tepid water, the white of 1 egg, salt, frying-fat.
Method.—Remove the skin and fibres, wash the brains in several waters, put them into a stewpan with the onion (sliced), and a tablespoonful of vinegar, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Remove from the stewpan, strain, dry well, and cut the brains into rather thin slices. Add a little salt to the flour, mix smoothly with the salad oil and water, whip the white of egg stiffly, and stir it lightly into the batter. Have ready a deep pan of hot frying-fat, dip each slice of brains into the batter, drop these into the hot fat, and fry them until lightly browned. Drain well, dish up, garnish with fried parsley, and serve hot.
Time.—From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 10d. to 1s. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
701.—CALF'S BRAINS, MILAN STYLE. (Fr.—Cervelles de Veau à la Milanaise.)
Ingredients.—2 calves' brains, ¾ of a pint of tomato sauce, ¼ of a pint of well reduced white sauce (see Sauces), 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 4 ozs. of macaroni, 1 small onion, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt and pepper, flour.
Method.—Prepare, cook and slice the brains as directed in the preceding recipe; season a dessertspoonful of flour with salt and pepper, dip each slice of brains in the mixture, brush over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry until lightly browned in hot fat. Break the macaroni into short lengths, put it into salted boiling water, and boil ​rapidly until tender, then drain well. Have the white sauce ready, add to it the macaroni and cream, and season to taste. Dish the slices of brains on a potato border, pile the macaroni in the centre, pour round a little of the hot tomato sauce, and serve the remainder in a tureen.
Time.—40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for 4 to 6 persons.
702.—CALF'S BRAINS WITH MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL SAUCE. (Fr.—Cervelles de Veau à la Maître d'Hôtel.)
Ingredients.—Calf's brains, ½ a pint of white sauce (see Sauces), 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 small onion, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method.—Prepare and cook the brains as directed in the preceding recipe, and cut them into small thick slices. Have the sauce ready in a stew-pan, add the parsley, lemon-juice, and season to taste. Put in the slices of brain, and, when thoroughly hot, serve.
Time.—About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient, for 3 or 4 persons.
703.—CALF'S BRAINS WITH BLACK BUTTER SAUCE. (Fr.—Cervelles de Veau au Beurre Noir.)
Ingredients.—2 calves' brains, ¾ of a pint of good stock. For the sauce: 1½ ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ½ a teaspoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method.—Wash the brains in salt and water, remove the skin and fibres, and drain well. Warm the stock in a stewpan, put in the brains, and simmer gently for about 10 minutes, then drain well. Fry the butter in an omelette pan over a quick fire until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then add to it the parsley and vinegar, pour this over the brains and serve.
Time.—From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 to 6 persons.
704.—CALF'S BRAINS WITH POULETTE SAUCE. (Fr.—Cervelles de Veau à la Poulette.)
Ingredients.—2 calves' brains. For the sauce: ½ a pint of stock, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 shallot, finely-chopped, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley. For the rice border: 1 pint of white stock, 4 ozs. of rice, the yolk of 1 egg, salt and pepper, nutmeg.
Method.—Wash the brains in several waters, put them into a stewpan ​with as much water as will cover them, add a few drops of lemon-juice and a teaspoonful of salt. Boil up slowly, then remove the brains, drain well, and cut them into thick dice. Wash the rice, blanch and drain it well, and cook in the stock until tender. Melt the butter in a small stewpan, fry the shallot until lightly browned, stir in the flour, cook for a few minutes without browning, pour in the stock, and stir until it boils. Simmer the sauce gently for 10 minutes, strain, return to the stewpan, put in the brains, cream, remainder of the lemon-juice, and re-heat gradually. When the rice is tender, season it with salt, pepper, add a pinch of nutmeg and the yolk of egg, cook for a few minutes longer, then turn into a well-buttered border mould. Shake the rice well down, in order that it may fill every part of the mould, then turn it on to a hot dish. Add the parsley to the contents of the stewpan, dish the ragoût in the centre of the rice border, and serve hot.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 1s. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
705.—CALF'S EARS. (Fr.—Oreilles de Veau Farcies).
Ingredients.—2 ears, forcemeat, No. 396, 12 small mushrooms, 1 onion stuck with 2 cloves, ½ a pint of milk, ½ a pint of stock, No. 7, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 yolk of egg, 1 sliced lemon, salt and pepper, peppercorns.
Method.—The ears should be cut as deeply as possible from the head. Wash, blanch, and drain them thoroughly, put them into a stewpan with the milk, a little water and a seasoning of salt, stew gently for 1 hour, then drain and dry well. Fill the insides with veal forcemeat, fold and tie securely, and place them in a stewpan with the stock, onion, cloves, 6 peppercorns, and salt to taste. Cook gently for 1 hour, then strain off the stock, and keep the ears as hot as possible. Meanwhile wash and skin the mushrooms, stew them until tender in a little of the milk in which the ears were cooked, and halve or quarter them. Beat the yolk of egg and cream together, and add the strained stock, stirring meanwhile. Replace in the stewpan, stir by the side of the fire until the yolk of egg thickens, add the prepared mushrooms, and season to taste. Place the ears on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, garnish with sliced lemon, and if liked some small fried forcemeat balls.
Time.—2½ hours. Average Cost, 1s. 9d. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
706.—CALF'S FEET, FRIED. (Fr.—Pieds de Veau à l'Horly.)
Ingredients.—2 calves' feet. For the stock: 1 carrot, 1 onion, 6 peppercorns. For the marinade (brine in which meat, etc., is soused): ​2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, salt and pepper, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, flour. Tomato sauce.
Method.—Wash and scald the calves' feet bone the upper part, remove the shank-bone, split them in two, and soak them in cold water for 2 hours. Put them in a stewpan with some salt, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, and drain. Return to the stewpan with as much cold water as will cover the feet, add the peppercorns, onion and carrot (sliced), and cook slowly until tender. Take away the rest of the bones, press the feet until cold, then slice them, set them in a deep dish, pour over the marinade, and let them remain in it for 1 hour, basting or turning occasionally, in order that both sides may be equally flavoured. Season a heaped teaspoonful of flour with salt and pepper; drain the slices of meat well, dip each piece in the flour, brush over with beaten egg, toss in crumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Serve with tomato sauce.
Time.—From 3 to 3½ hours to boil the feet. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
707.—CALF'S HEAD, COLLARED (Cold). (Fr.—Tête de Veau Farcie.)
Ingredients.—A calves' head, 1 lb. of lean uncooked ham, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoons of finely-chopped parsley, ground mace, nutmeg, salt and pepper. For the stock: 1 or 2 onions, 1 carrot, ½ a turnip, 1 strip of celery, a bouquet garni (i.e., parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns.
Method.—Cut the head in half, take out the brains, dress and serve them with the tongue as a separate dish. Wash the head in several waters, and afterwards let it soak for 12 hours in salted water, which should be changed several times. Put it into a saucepan with a handful of salt, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, then drain, and wash well in cold water. Return to the saucepan, cover with cold water, boil, skim well, then add the prepared vegetables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, salt to taste, and cook gently for 1½ to 2 hours, or until the bones can be easily removed. When the head is boned, spread it out on the table, season well with salt and pepper, sprinkle on it a little mace and nutmeg, distribute the narrow strips of ham and slices of boiled egg evenly over the surface, add the parsley and a little more flavouring and seasoning, then roll up tightly, and wrap and tie securely in a pudding-cloth. Have the stock boiling in the saucepan, put in the head, and cook gently for 2 hours. When cool, tighten the cloth, and press between 2 dishes or boards until cold.
Time.—To cook, about 4 hours. Average Cost, from 7s. to 9s. 6d.
​708.—CALF'S HEAD, COLLARED (Hot).
Ingredients. A calf's head. For the forcemeat: the calf's brains and tongue, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 level teaspoonful of mixed herbs, the grated rind of a lemon, 2 eggs, salt and pepper. For the sauce: 1 pint of the stock, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of cooked coarsely-chopped mushrooms, 1 tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped gherkins, the juice of 1 lemon. For the stock: see preceding recipe.
Method.—Prepare blanch, and partially boil the head as directed in the preceding recipe. Boil the tongue in the same saucepan, remove the skin, and chop it finely. Wash the brains in several waters, let them remain in salt and water until wanted, then tie loosely in a piece of muslin, boil with the head for about ½ an hour, and when cool chop coarsely. Mix the tongue, brains, breadcrumbs, parsley, herbs and lemon-rind together, add a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, and beaten egg in sufficient quantity to thoroughly moisten the whole. Bone, flatten, and season the head, spread on the forcemeat, roll up tightly in a cloth, and cook gently for 2 hours. When nearly ready, melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for 5 minutes. Add to the roux or thickening a pint of stock from the saucepan, stir until it boils, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then put in the mushrooms, gherkins, lemon-juice, and seasoning to taste. Serve the head on a hot dish, garnished with cut lemon, and the sauce separately in a tureen.
Time.—About 4 hours. Average Cost, from 7s. to 9s. 6d.
709.—CALF'S HEAD, BOILED. (Fr.—Tête de Veau Bouillie.)
Ingredients.—A calf's head. For the stock: 1 or 2 onions, 1 or 2 carrots, 1 small turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, salt. For the sauce: 1½ oz. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, ½ a pint of stock, ½ a pint of milk, lemon-juice 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 egg, browned breadcrumbs.
Method.—Prepare and blanch the head in the usual manner, return it to the saucepan, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, skim well, then add the prepared vegetables, herbs, peppercorns, salt to taste, and simmer from 2 to 2½ hours, according to size. Boil the tongue at the same time. Wash the brains in several waters, let them remain in salt and water until wanted, then tie loosely in a piece of muslin, boil with the head for about ½ an hour, and when cool, chop coarsely and use for the sauce. The head may be served plainly-boiled, but it presents a better appearance when it has been coated with egg and brown breadcrumbs, and baked for 20 minutes in the oven, being frequently basted during the time. It is more easily carved, and the various parts are more evenly distributed when the bones are ​removed, and the head rolled, before baking; it must be bound with strong tape, and the bare parts under the tape sprinkled with breadcrumbs before serving. About ½ an hour before the head is ready to serve, melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour and cook for 5 minutes, then pour in the milk and ½ a pint of liquor from the pot in which the head is cooking. Stir until it boils, simmer for 10 minutes, add the prepared brains, parsley, lemon-juice, and seasoning to taste. Remove the skin from the tongue, and cut it into thin slices. Place the head on a hot dish (if not egged and breadcrumbed, brush over with glaze), garnish with slices of tongue and lemon, and serve the sauce in a tureen. A piece of boiled ham or bacon is occasionally served as an accompaniment to this dish.
Time.—To cook, about 4 hours. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. to 8s.
710.—CALF'S HEAD, FRIED. (Fr.—Fritot de Tête de Veau.)
Ingredients.—The remains of a cooked calf's head. For the marinade: 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil or melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion. 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, ½ teaspoonful of mixed herbs, salt and pepper. For the batter: 4 ozs. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, ¼ of a pint of tepid water, the whites of 2 eggs, salt. Frying-fat.
Method.—Cut the meat into strips about 2½ inches long and 1 inch wide, place them in a deep dsh, pour over the marinade, and allow the strips to remain in it for at least 1 hour. Mix the flour, salt, salad-oil smoothly together; whisk the white of egg stiffly, and stir it lightly into the batter. Drain the pieces of meat well, dip them into the batter and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Pile on a hot dish, and garnish with fried parsley. When a more elaborate dish is required, the fried strips may be dished in a circle on a border of mashed potato, with the centre filled with a purée of spinach, asparagus points, or whatever may be preferred, and either tomato or a good brown sauce poured round.
Time.—1½ hours. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the meat.
711.—CALF'S HEAD WITH POULETTE SAUCE. (Fr.—Tête de Veau à la Poulette.)
Ingredients.—Some boned boiled calf's head, 1 pint of white sauce (see Sauces), 1 tablespoonful of cream, the yolk of 1 egg, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, lemon-juice to taste, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the remains of the calf's head into nice slices. Make the white sauce as directed; let it cool slightly, then add the yolk of egg and cream, previously mixed together, and stir the mixture by ​the side of the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, but the sauce must not boil, or the egg may curdle. Put in the meat, parsley, lemon-juice, add seasoning to taste, cover closely, and stand the stewpan in the bain-marie, or in a tin of hot water, until the meat is thoroughly hot, then serve.
Time.—About 30 minutes, after the white sauce is made. Average Cost, 7s. 6d. to 8s. 6d.
712.—CALF'S HEAD WITH TOMATO SAUCE. (Fr.—Tête de Veau à la Tomate.)
Ingredients,—Half a boned calf's head, ¼ pint of tomato sauce (see Sauces), 3 or 4 ozs. of macaroni, salt and pepper.
Method. Break the macaroni into pieces about ¾ of an inch long, put these into salted boiling water, and boil rapidly until tender. Cut the remains of the calf's head into slices convenient for serving. Have the tomato sauce ready in a stewpan, add to it the macaroni and meat, season to taste, make thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, from 3s. 9d. to 4s. 9d.
713.—CALF'S HEAD WITH MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL SAUCE. (Fr.—Tête de Veau â la Maître d'Hôtel.)
Ingredients.—The remains of a calf's head, 1 pint of white sauce (see Sauces) 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving. Make the sauce as directed put in the pieces of calf's head and let them become thoroughly hot, then add the parsley and lemon-juice, season to taste and serve.
Time.—15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. exclusive of the calf's head.
714.—CALF'S HEAD, HASHED.
Ingredients.—½ a calf's head veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats) a few rashers of bacon, 1 pint of liquor in which the head was cooked 1 glass of sherry, 12 button mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour. For the brain cakes: 2 eggs, breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, mace, herbs. For the stock: 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 2 strips of celery, 10 peppercorns, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt.
Method.—Prepare and blanch the head as directed in "Calf's Head, Collared," return it to the saucepan, bring to the boil, skim well, add the prepared vegetables, herbs, peppercorns, and salt to taste, and simmer gently until the bones can be easily removed. Drain the head, strain the stock, put 1 quart of it into a stewpan, and boil rapidly to reduce. Remove the bones from the head, cut the meat into pieces ​1½ inches square, skin the tongue, and cut it into ½ inch dice. Wash the brains in 3 or 4 waters, let them remain in salt and water until wanted, then tie them in a piece of muslin, boil with the head for ½ an hour, and make into cakes (see Brain Cakes, No. 695). Make the forcemeat as directed, shape into balls, and either bake or fry them in hot fat for about 15 minutes; roll the rashers of bacon, run a skewer through them, and either fry or bake until crisp. Knead the flour and butter together, add the mixture to the reduced stock, and when smoothly mixed put in the pieces of calf's head, tongue, mushrooms (previously cooked and cut into 2 or 4 pieces, according to their size). Season to taste, cover closely, simmer gently for ½ an hour, then add the sherry, and serve. Garnish with the forcemeat balls, brain cakes, and rolls of bacon.
Time.—2½ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 5s. to 6s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
715.—CALF'S HEAD, MOULDED.
Ingredients.—The remains of a calf's head. To 1 lb. allow ½ a lb. of ham or bacon, 3 hard-boiled eggs, the finely-grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ½ a pint (about) of reduced stock in which the head was cooked, a pinch each of nutmeg, ground mace, and ground cloves, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the remains of the calf's head and ham or bacon into dice, cut the eggs into sections or slices, and arrange some of them in a pattern on the bottom of a buttered mould or basin; mix the parsley, lemon-rind, flavourings and seasonings together. Cover the bottom of the mould with a thick layer of calf's head, on the top of it place a thin layer of ham and bacon, add a few slices of egg, and sprinkle well with flavouring mixture. Repeat until the mould is full, pour in the warm stock, cover with a greased paper, and bake for about 2 hours in a slow oven. Add a little more hot stock as soon as the mould leaves the oven. When cold, turn out of the mould, garnish with small tufts of parsley, and serve.
Time.—To cook, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 persons.
716.—CALF'S HEAD PIE. (Fr.—Pâté de Tête de Veau.)
Ingredients.—The remains of a calf's head, ½ a lb. of raw ham or bacon, forcemeat balls (see Forcemeats), 2 hard-boiled eggs, ½ a pint of stock in which the head was cooked, ¼ of a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, the grated rind of ½ a lemon, a pinch of ground mace, a pinch of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper; puff or rough puff paste.
Method.—Cut the meat into small thin slices, cut the ham or bacon ​into narrow strips, cut the eggs into thin slices, mix the forcemeat rather stiffly with a little raw egg, and shape into small balls. Put a fairly thick layer of calf's head on the bottom of a piedish, cover with a thin layer of ham or bacon, add a few slices of egg, and a good sprinkling of salt, pepper, herbs, mace, nutmeg, and lemon-rind. Repeat until the dish is full, add the stock, and cover with the pastry, Bake in a moderately hot oven for about 1 hour, when cooked pour in, through the hole on the top, a little hot jellied stock, and set aside until cold.
Time.—To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
717.—CALF'S KIDNEY WITH SCRAMBLED EGGS. (Fr.—Rôgnons aux Oeufs Brouillés.)
Ingredients.—1 large or 2 small calf's kidneys, ½ a pint of Espagnole sauce (see sauces), ¼ of a pint of gravy or good stock, 1 glass of sherry, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 shallots or 1 very small onion finely chopped, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of milk (about), salt and pepper.
Method.—Boil the sauce and gravy together for ½ an hour, then add the sherry. Remove all fat and skin from the kidney, cut it into very thin slices, and season well with salt and pepper. Melt half the butter in a sauté-pan or frying-pan, fry the shallots lightly, add the slices of kidney, and fry quickly on both sides, shaking the pan meanwhile over the fire. Pour the sauce over the kidney, draw the pan to the side of the fire, and cook slowly for 10 or 15 minutes. Beat up the eggs, add to them about 1 tablespoonful of milk and season to taste. Melt the remainder of the butter in a stewpan, pour in the eggs, cook very gently, and stir until they thicken. Arrange the kidney in a circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and pile the scrambled eggs in the centre. Sprinkle the parsley over the whole, and serve.
Time.—From 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
718.—CALF'S LIVER BRAISED. (Fr.—Foie de Veau, Braisé.)
Ingredients.—A small calf's liver, a few strips of larding-bacon, ½ a pint of brown sauce (see Sauces), ¼ of a pint of good stock, 1 glass of port wine, the juice of ½ a lemon, 1 small onion sliced, 1 small carrot sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 blade of mace, 1 bay-leaf, 6 peppercorns, 1 clove, a small slice of ham or bacon cut into strips, 1 oz. of butter.
Method.—Soak the liver in cold water for 20 minutes, then drain, dry well, and insert the strips of bacon, which should be about ⅛ of an ​inch thick and 1¼ inches long. Melt the butter in a shallow stewpan, add the onion, carrot, and ham, fry slightly, then put in the liver and let it brown. Pour off the fat, add the brown sauce, stock, bouquet-garni, mace, bay-leaf, and simmer gently for about 1 hour. Then add the wine, lemon-juice and parsley, boil, simmer for 10 minutes longer, remove the liver to a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and serve.
Time.—About 1½ hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d.
719.—CALF'S LIVER WITH ONION PURÉE. (Fr.—Foie de Veau à la Clermont.)
Ingredients.—¾ lb. of calves' liver, 1 large Spanish onion, 2 ozs. of butter, ½ a pint of Espagnole sauce (see Sauces), ¼ of a pint of stock, 1 tablespoonful of flour, salt and pepper, a little finely-chopped parsley.
Method.—Peel and blanch the onion, cut it into very small dice, fry in ½ of the butter until lightly browned, then add the stock, and cook slowly until reduced to a thick purée, adding the brown sauce gradually as the stock boils away. Cut the liver into slices about ⅜ of an inch in thickness, cut off the corners and trim to a uniform oval or round shape. Mix the flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and a ¼ of a teaspoonful pepper together on a plate, and dip the slices of liver in the mixture. Melt the remaining oz. of butter in a sauté-pan, and fry the liver on both sides until nicely browned and firm to the touch, then drain well. Season the onion purée to taste, spread it lightly on a hot dish, arrange the slices of liver on the top, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
720.—CALF'S LIVER AND BACON. (Fr.—Fritot de Foie de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of calf's liver, ½ a lb. of bacon, 1 oz. of butter, flour, salt and pepper.
Method.—Wash and dry the liver, and cut it into slices about ½ of an inch in thickness; add a good seasoning of salt and pepper to a dessertspoonful of flour, and dip the pieces of liver in the mixture. Heat the frying pan, put in the bacon, cut into thin slices, fry slowly, remove to a HOT tin, and keep hot until wanted. Fry the liver in the bacon fat until nicely browned on both sides, then remove to a hot dish. Pour away the bacon fat, add the butter (the bacon fat may be used instead when not disliked), sprinkle in about a tablespoonful of flour, stir and fry until brown. Add about ½ a pint of warm water, stir until it boils, and season to taste. Arrange the pieces of liver in a close circle, strain the gravy over, place the slices of bacon on the top, and serve. If preferred, the gravy may be served separately in a tureen, and the rashers of bacon curled before frying, and piled in the centre of the liver.
​Time.—About 35 or 40 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. 4d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
721.—CALF'S LIVER WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE. (Fr.—Foie de Veau à la Sauce Piquante.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of calf's liver, frying fat. For the sauce: ½ a pint of water, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 4 shallots or 1 small onion finely-chopped, 2 gherkins coarsely-chopped, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method.—Wash and dry the liver thoroughly, and cut it into neat slices. Mix 1 tablespoonful of flour, ½ a teaspoonful of salt and ⅛ of a teaspoonful of pepper together, and dip the pieces of liver in the mixture. Place the shallots or onion, gherkins and vinegar in a small stewpan, boil rapidly for 10 minutes, and keep it hot. Fry the liver in hot fat until lightly cooked and nicely browned, then remove and keep it as hot as possible. Pour away any fat that remains in the frying-pan, but leave all the brown sediment, add the butter, and when hot sprinkle in the flour. Stir and fry slowly until well browned, add the water and seasoning to taste, stir until boiling, simmer gently for 5 minutes, then strain and mix with the vinegar, etc. Arrange the liver neatly on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve as hot as possible.
Time.—To fry the liver, 5 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
722.—CALF'S HEART, BAKED. (Fr.—Coeur de Veau Rôti.)
Ingredients.—A calf's heart, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), a few rashers of bacon, salt and pepper, fat, brown gravy (see Gravies).
Method.—Wash the heart in several waters, let it remain in cold water 1 hour, then drain, and dry thoroughly. Fill the inside with forcemeat, tie a piece of oiled or buttered paper round it, and bake in a moderate oven for about 2 hours. Baste well, and about ½ an hour before serving remove the paper and dredge well with flour. The gravy in the tin may be used to enrich or form the basis of the brown gravy. Make this hot and pour round the dish. Garnish with fried bacon.
Time.—About 2 hours. Average Cost. 9d. to 1s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
723.—CRÉPINETTES OF VEAL. (Fr.—Crépinettes de Veau.)
Ingredients.—4 ozs. of cooked lean veal, 1 oz. of cooked ham or tongue, 4 preserved mushrooms, 1 small truffle, 6 or 7 tablespoonfuls of spinach purée, 1 egg, a good pinch of grated lemon-rind, a small pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, pig's caul, meat glaze, 5 or 6 oval paper cases.
​Method.—Prepare the spinach purée (see Vegetables), mince the veal and ham very finely, cut the mushrooms and truffles into fine short strips, add the lemon-rind, nutmeg, season to taste, mix well together, and bind with the egg. Cut the caul into pieces about 4 inch longs and 2½ inches wide, shape the mixture into small oval forms, 2 inches long, and nearly 1¼ inches wide, fold them in the caul, and bake in a moderate oven for 7 or 8 minutes. Put the spinach purée into a stew pan, add a tablespoonful of good gravy or cream, dredge in a little flour, season with salt and pepper, and when thoroughly hot, put a tablespoonful into each paper case. Brush the crépinettes over with glaze, place them in the cases, and serve. The crépinettes may also be egged, breadcrumbed, fried, and served on a bed of spinach (see Boudinettes of Veal, p. 435).
Time.—20 to 25 minutes, after the spinach is cooked. Average Cost, 1s., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 6 or 7 crépinettes.
724.—CROQUETTES OF VEAL. (Fr.—Croquettes de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of cold veal, 1 oz. of butter or dripping, ½ an oz. of flour, ¼ of a pint of stock, the rind of ½ a lemon grated, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a good pinch of nutmeg, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt and pepper.
Method.—Chop the meat finely, and boil the bones and trimmings, for the stock. Melt the fat or butter in a stewpan, add the flour pour in the stock, and stir until it boils (this sauce is intended to bind the mixture, when more convenient an egg may be used instead), boil the sauce 2 or 3 minutes, then add the meat, parsley, lemon-rind, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, and stir well over the fire. Turn on to a plate, when cool form into cork shaped pieces, brush over with beaten egg, coat well with breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in hot fat.
Time.—From 1½ to 2 hours. Average Cost, 4d. exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Note.—A properly made croquette or rissole is dry and crisp on the outside, and very moist inside, but the mixture must of necessity be made moderately dry unless the liquid used in its preparation contains the stiffening properties of gelatine, for when it lacks a certain degree of firmness it is moulded with great difficulty. All that is required to obtain a moist, in fact almost liquid rissole, is to add to the mixture a considerable amount of stock that will form a jelly when cold, and when re-heated will again become liquid.
Names of Calves.—The young male calf, during the period it is dependent upon his mother, is called a bull, or ox-calf; when one year old he is termed a stirk, stot, or yearling. On the completion of his second year he is known as a two-year-old bull or steer—in some counties a stinter—and at four an ox, or a bullock, names which he bears until his death. The term "ox" is used as a general appellation for neat cattle and irrespective of sex, as the British ox, the Indian ox, etc. The female during its first year is termed a cow-calf; at the age of one year a yearling quey; a year later a heifer, or twinter; when three years old a three-year-old quey, or twinter, and on arriving at the age of four and afterwards, a cow. In different districts provincial names are current.
​725.—CROUSTADES OF CALF'S BRAINS. (Fr.—Croustades aux Cervelles.)
Ingredients.—1 set calf's brains, a little cooked tongue, ½ a pint of good white sauce (see Sauces), 1 tablespoonful of cream, the yolk of 1 egg, a good pinch of mace, a few drops of lemon-juice, vinegar, salt and pepper, 1 small onion, short crust paste.
Method.—Line some small, deep, oval or round moulds, thinly with paste, (dariol moulds may be made to serve), prick the bottoms to prevent them blistering, line them with buttered paper, and fill with rice. Bake in a moderately-hot oven, then remove the paper and rice, take the cases out of the moulds, and return them to the oven until they become crisp and lightly browned. Wash the brains well in salt and water, and boil them until firm in water, to which must be added 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and 1 small onion (sliced). Drain well, and cut into small dice, also cut the tongue into dice. Have ready the white sauce, add to it the dice of tongue and brains, cream, lemon-juice, mace, seasoning, yolk of egg, and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture is thoroughly hot and the egg cooked. Fill the pastry cases with the mixture, sprinkle on the top of each a little finely-chopped truffle or a few panurette breadcrumbs, and serve either hot or cold.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the paste and brains. Sufficient, allow 8 croustades for 6 persons.
726.—CURRY OF VEAL. (Fr.—Kari de Veau.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of neck, breast or fillet of veal, 1 pint of stock or water, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful of curry-paste, 1 sour apple, 2 small onions coarsely-chopped, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt, 4 ozs. of rice.
Method.—Cut the meat into pieces about 1½ inches square, and fry them in the hot butter until lightly browned. Lift the pieces of meat on to a plate, sprinkle in the flour and curry-powder, add the onion, and fry gently for 10 minutes. Add the stock, curry-paste, sliced apple, salt to taste, boil, replace the meat, and cook gently from 2 to 2½ hours. Boil the rice, drain, and dry well. When the meat is tender remove it to a hot dish, season the sauce to taste, add the lemon-juice and strain over the meat. The rice should be served separately.
Time.—From 2½ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
​727.—CUTLETS BROILED WITH ITALIAN SAUCE. (Fr.—Côtelettes de Veau à l'Italienne.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of fillet or neck of veal, ½ a pint of Italian sauce, No. 252, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, clarified butter.
Method.—Divide the meat into thin slices, which afterwards trim into neat cutlets. Dip them in egg seasoned with salt and pepper, coat with breadcrumbs, and afterwards with clarified butter. Broil the cutlets over a clear fire, brushing them over occasionally with clarified butter, to prevent the breadcrumbs burning. Arrange neatly on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve.
Time.—To broil, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, neck of veal, 10d. to 1s.; fillet, 1s. to 1s. 2d.
728.—VEAL COLLOPS. (Fr.—Paupiettes de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of fillet of veal, a few slices of bacon, forcemeat, No. 396, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, fat for frying, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, mace, salt and pepper, lemon-juice.
Method.—Cut the meat into very thin strips 3 inches long and 2 inches wide, cover with thin pieces of bacon the same size, season well with salt and pepper, and spread lightly with forcemeat. Roll up lightly, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry gently in hot fat, turning frequently so as to brown the entire surface. Remove and keep hot, drain away any fat that remains, but preserve the sediment. Put in the butter, and as soon as it is hot sprinkle in the flour, and cook gently until lightly browned. Add ⅓ of a pint of boiling water, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of ground mace, salt and pepper to taste, and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Arrange the collops on a hot dish, strain the sauce round, then serve.
Time.—To fry the collops, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d. per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
729.—FILLETS OF VEAL. (Fr.—Filets de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of fillet of veal, a few slices of bacon, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, the grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, ½ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ¼ of a teaspoonful of thyme, ½ a pint of tomato sauce, brown sauce, or sauce made with the following ingredients: ½ a pint of white stock, ½ an oz. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, ½ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a small piece of meat glaze, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the veal into slices about ½ an inch in thickness, and each slice into rounds 2¼ or 2½ inches in diameter. Beat the egg, add to it the parsley, thyme, lemon-rind, lemon-juice, dip each fillet in the ​mixture, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot butter, in a sauté-pan. When nicely browned on both sides take them out of the pan, and keep them hot. Add the flour to the butter in the pan, fry lightly, pour in the stock, stir till it boils, then add the lemon-juice, cream and glaze, season to taste, and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes. The fillets may be dished in a circle on a border of mashed potato, with the rolls of bacon piled in the centre, or in two rows alternately with fried, thin, stamped-out rounds of bacon of equal size. The sauce should be strained and poured round the dish.
Time.—About ½ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 7 to 9 persons.
The Golden Calf.—In the Book of Genesis we are told that Aaron, constrained by the impatient Israelites during the lengthened absence of Moses in the Mount, made a golden calf from the golden earrings presented by the people, to represent the Elohim which brought the Children of Israel out of the land of Egypt. The "Golden Calf" was probably a wooden figure of a calf overlaid with plates of gold, fashioned in a similar manner to the gilded ox covered with a pall, which the Egyptian regarded as the symbol of Osiris, one of the great Egyptian divinities, and the king of the gods and Judge of the Dead. The offerings, dancing, and rejoicings which the Israelites practised were probably identical with the ceremony with which Mnevis, one of the three kinds of sacred bulls, was worshipped in Egypt: hence the punishment inflicted upon the people by Moses.
730.—FILLETS OF VEAL, TALLEYRAND STYLE. (Fr.—Filets de Veau à la Talleyrand.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of fillet or cushion of veal, 1½ ozs. of butter, 2 shallots finely-chopped, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 6 preserved mushrooms, the juice of ½ a lemon, ¼ of a pint of white sauce, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into 6 or 7 pieces of equal size and thickness, flatten slightly with a cutlet-bat, and trim into a round or oval form. Melt the butter in a sauté or frying-pan, put in the cutlets, and cook them thoroughly, but do not allow them to acquire much colour. Have the white sauce nearly boiling in a small stewpan, put in the fillets, cover, and draw to the side of the stove. Cut the mushrooms into small pieces, add them, together with the shallots, to the butter in the sauté-pan, fry for a few minutes without browning, then turn the contents of the sauté-pan into the stewpan, simmer very gently until the fillets are tender, then cool slightly. Add the lemon-juice, parsley, yolks of eggs, season to taste, and stir gently by the side of the fire until the sauce thickens, but it must not boil, or the eggs may curdle. Dish the fillets in a single row on a foundation of mashed potato, which helps to keep them in position, pour the sauce over them carefully, in order that every part may be equally coated, and serve.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
731.—FRICASSEE OF CALF'S FEET. (Fr.—Pieds de Veau en Fricassée.)
Ingredients.—4 cooked calves' feet (those which have been boiled down for jelly may be used), 1 pint of white sauce (see Sauces), 1 ​teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of small dice of cooked ham or bacon, salt and pepper, nutmeg.
Method.—Remove all the bones, and cut the meat into pieces of equal size. Make the white sauce as directed, add to it the ham or bacon, the pieces of calves' feet, and let the stewpan stand by the side of the fire until the contents are thoroughly hot; then put in the parsley and lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 1s. to 1s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 to 8 persons.
732.—FILLET OF VEAL STEWED. (Fr.—Filet de veau étuvé.)
Ingredients.—3 lb. of fillet of veal, forcemeat, No. 396, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 oz. of dripping, a few fresh mushrooms when obtainable, lemon-juice, mace, salt and pepper, 1 pint of stock or water, vegetables if necessary.
Method.—Flatten the meat well with a cutlet-bat or rolling-pin, spread on the forcemeat, roll up and tie securely with tape. Melt the dripping in a stewpan, fry the meat until the entire surface is nicely browned then drain off the fat. Add the mushrooms, stock or water, and if using the latter add a little sliced onion, carrot and turnip, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover closely, simmer gently for 2 hours, taking care that the stock or water is kept just at simmering point. Meanwhile melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook gently until nicely browned, and when ready, add the strained liquor in which the veal has been cooked. Stir until boiling, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then add the lemon-juice, and season to taste. Serve the meat on a hot dish with a little sauce poured over, and the remainder in a tureen.
Time.—About 2½ hours. Average Cost, 4s. Sufficient for 10 or 12 persons. Seasonable at any time.
733.—FRICANDEAU OF VEAL WITH SORREL. (Fr.—Fricandeau de Veau à l'Oseille.)
Ingredients.—3 lb. of fillet of veal, larding bacon, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 peppercorns, ½ a pint of stock, glaze, 1½ lb. of sorrel purée.
Method.—Lard the veal in close rows. Put the vegetables and the butter into a stewpan. lay the meat on the top, cover, and fry gently for about 20 minutes; then add the stock, bouquet-garni, mace, cloves, peppercorns, and salt, cover with a greased paper, put on the lid, and ​braise for 3 hours, adding more stock as that in the stewpan reduces. When done, put in the oven on a baking-sheet for a few minutes, to crisp the bacon, brush over with glaze, and place on a hot dish. Add a little glaze to the liquor in the stewpan, skim, strain, season to taste, and serve in a sauce-boat, garnish the dish with the sorrel purée, and serve. Spinach may be used instead of sorrel.
Time.—3½ to 3¾ hours. Average Cost, about 5s. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.
734.—FRICASSEE OF CALF'S HEAD. (Fr.—Tête de Veau en Fricassée.)
Ingredients.—½ a calf's head, 1 pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled, 1½ ozs. of butter 1½ ozs. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of 1 lemon, a good pinch of mace, salt and pepper, rolls of fried bacon, forcemeat balls (see Forcemeats).
Method.—Prepare and boil the calf's head as directed in the recipe for "Calf's Head Collared" (the remains of a calf's head may be used), remove the bones, and cut the meat into pieces 1½ inches square. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the flour for a few minutes without browning, then add the stock, stir until it boils, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Add the mace, seasoning to taste, put in the pieces of meat, cover closely, and draw the stewpan to the side of the stove for about 20 minutes. Shape the forcemeat into small balls, and either fry or bake them until nicely browned. Place the rolls of bacon on a skewer and fry or bake them until crisp. Remove the pieces of meat from the sauce, and arrange them on a hot dish in a pile. Have ready the cream and yolks of eggs mixed lightly together, add these to the sauce, and stir by the side of the fire until they thicken, but the sauce must on no account be allowed to boil. Add the lemon-juice, season to taste, and strain over the meat. Garnish with the forcemeat balls and rolls of bacon, and serve.
Time.—After the calf's head is boiled, nearly 1 hour. Average Cost, 4s. to 5s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
735.—GALANTINE OF VEAL. (Fr.—Galantine de Veau.)
Ingredients.—A small breast of veal, 1½ or 2 lb. of sausage meat, 2 or 3 rashers of bacon (ham or tongue may be substituted), 1 hard-boiled egg, glaze (see p. 137), salt, pepper, a grate of nutmeg, ground mace, ground cloves.
Method.—Bone the veal, and flatten it out on the table. Season well with salt and pepper, spread on ½ the sausage meat in an even layer, distribute narrow strips of bacon and slices of egg over the surface, add mace, nutmeg, and cloves in very small quantities, and a liberal ​seasoning of salt and pepper, and cover with the remainder of the sausage meat. Roll the meat up tightly, wrap it in a pudding cloth, secure the ends with string, put the roll into boiling stock, or into boiling water, to which has been added the veal bones, 1 or 2 onions, 1 or 2 small carrots, 1 turnip, celery, salt and peppercorns, and cook gently for 3 or 3½ hours. When cooked and nearly cold take off the cloth, which always becomes loose, re-roll, tie tightly as before, and press the galantine between two boards or dishes until cold. Before serving brush over with glaze, and garnish with parsley, and, if liked, some fancifully-shaped, or coarsely-chopped aspic jelly.
Time.—From 3 to 3½ hours, to boil the galantine. Average Cost, 1s. per lb.
When Calves should be Killed.—A calf should not be killed under 4 weeks; the flesh prior to that time lacks firmness, due development of muscular fibre, and is deficient in the animal juices on which the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend. The calf is considered to be in prime condition at 10 weeks, and should then weigh from 16 to 18 stone.
736.—GATEAU OF COLD VEAL. (Fr.—Gâteau de Veau.)
Ingredients.—½ lb. of cold veal (or veal and ham mixed), 2 tablespoonfuls of white breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley ½ teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, a pinch of nutmeg, 1 egg, 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy or milk, a few browned breadcrumbs, ½ pint of gravy.
Method.—Grease a round mould or cake tin, and well cover it with browned breadcrumbs. Put the bones and browned trimmings of the meat into a stewpan with a little salt and pepper, and boil gently until the gravy is required, then strain and season to taste. Chop the meat finely, add to it the white breadcrumbs, parsley, lemon-rind, nutmeg, the egg beaten, and as much gravy or milk as will thoroughly moisten the whole. Season rather highly with salt and pepper, press the mixture tightly into the cake tin, and bake in a moderate oven for 40 or 45 minutes. Turn out, pour a little gravy round, and serve the remainder separately.
Time.—About 1¼ hours, altogether. Average Cost, 3d. or 4d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
737.—GRENADINES OF VEAL. (Fr.—Grenadins de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of fillet of veal, a few strips of larding bacon, 1 pint of good stock, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 onion, 1 carrot, ½ a turnip, 2 strips of celery, 6 peppercorns, 1 clove, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), meat glaze, salt, pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into slices about ½ an inch in thickness, and cut each slice into rounds from 2 to 2½ inches in diameter. Lard the ​grenadines on one side with strips of bacon 1¼ inches long, and about ⅛ of an inch wide. Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, put in the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, clove, and the vegetables sliced, lay the grenadines on the top of them, cover closely, and fry gently for 10 minutes. Then add as much stock as will nearly cover the vegetables, and the remainder by degrees, to replace that which boils away. Cover the grenadines with a buttered paper, cover closely, and braise for 1 hour. When tender, remove the grenadines from the stewpan, put them in a hot oven for a few minutes, to brown and crisp the bacon, and brush over with meat glaze. Have ready the brown roux, or thickening, made by frying the remaining oz. of butter and the flour together until brown, strain the liquor from the stewpan on to it, boil and stir until smooth, simmer a few minutes, then season to taste, and use. Dish the grenadines in a circle on a border of mashed potato, fill the centre with peas, asparagus points, or any suitable vegetable, pour the sauce round, and serve.
Time.—About 1½ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
738.—GRENADINES OF VEAL. (Fr.—Grenadins de Veau à la Marchand de vin.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of fillet of veal, a few strips of larding bacon, 3 or 4 slices of lean bacon, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 finely-chopped shallots, ½ a gill of tomato sauce, ½ a gill of brown sauce, ½ a glass of claret, salt and pepper.
Method.—Prepare and lard the grenadines as directed in the previous recipe. Melt the butter in a small stewpan, fry the shallots in butter without browning them, pour off the butter into a sauté-or frying-pan, add the claret to the shallots, and boil until well reduced. Add the tomato and brown sauces, parsley, season with salt and pepper, and boil rapidly until considerably reduced. Re-heat the butter in the sauté-pan, and fry the grenadines until lightly browned on both sides, then pour off the butter, add the reduced sauce, cover the sauté-pan with a lid, and cook gently for about 15 minutes. Take up the grenadines, arrange them in a circle on a border of mashed potato, fill the centre with strips of lean bacon, previously fried in the butter, strain the sauce over the grenadines, and serve.
Time.—About 1½ hours. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 3d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
739.—HARICOT OF VEAL. (Fr.—Haricot de Veau.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of neck of veal, 1½ ozs. of butter or dripping, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1½ pints of white stock or water, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, salt and pepper.
​Method.—Divide the meat into pieces convenient for serving, cut the vegetables into small dice, which put aside, and preserve the trimmings. Heat the butter or fat in a stewpan, fry the meat lightly on both sides, then remove to a plate. Sprinkle in the flour, fry slowly until well-browned, then add the stock or water, and stir until boiling. Season to taste, add the vegetable trimmings, put in the meat, and cover closely. Simmer very gently for 2 hours, then remove to a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and garnish with the dice of vegetables, previously boiled separately until tender.
Time.—2½ hours. Average Cost, 1s. 10d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
740.—KNUCKLE OF VEAL, STEWED.
Ingredients.—A knuckle of veal, 5 or 6 lb. in weight, a piece of ham or bacon to boil, or a few slices to roll and fry, 3 tablespoonfuls of rice, 1 onion, 1 small carrot, ½ a small turnip, 1 strip of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper, parsley sauce (see Sauces).
Method.—Separate the shank bone, put it with the meat into a saucepan containing sufficient boiling water to cover, bring to the boil, skim well, add the vegetables (cut into dice), the herbs and salt to taste. The ham or bacon should be boiled separately. The veal must be gently simmered for about 3 hours; at the end of 2 hours the rice should be well washed and added to the contents of the saucepan. Remove the meat from the broth, and keep it hot. Take out the bones and bouquet-garni, season the broth to taste, and serve separately. Pour a little parsley sauce over the meat, and serve the remainder in a tureen. Send the ham or bacon to table on a separate dish.
Time.—About 3 hours. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient, for 6 or 7 persons.
741.—LITTLE TIMBALES OF VEAL WITH MUSHROOMS. (Fr.—Petites Timbales de Veau aux Champignons.)
Ingredients.—6 ozs. lean uncooked veal, 2 ozs. of uncooked ham or tongue, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of white sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 eggs, salt and pepper. For the panada: ¼ of a pint of water, 2 ozs. of flour, ½ an oz. of butter. For the mushroom purée: ½ a lb. of fresh mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful of cream, salt and pepper, white sauce.
Method.—Melt the ½ oz. of butter in a ¼ of a pint of hot water, and, when boiling, stir in the 2 ozs. of flour, and cook over the fire until the ​panada, or paste, leaves the sides of the stewpan clean, spread it on a plate, and put it aside to cool. Remove the stalks of the mushrooms, skin and chop them coarsely; melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, put in the mushrooms, cover, and let them steam in the butter for 10 minutes, then add the breadcrumbs, cream, seasoning to taste, and let the mixture cool. Pass the meat 2 or 3 times through the mincing machine, pound it well in a mortar with the panada, adding 1 oz. of butter, the cold white sauce, the remaining cream gradually, and the eggs one at a time. When quite smooth, season to taste, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Butter 10 or 12 large-sized timbale-moulds, line them with the meat farce, or stuffing, make a well in the centre of each with the handle of a teaspoon, dipped in hot water to prevent the farce adhering to it, and fill with the mushroom purée. Cover the top of each timbale with a thin layer of farce, place them in a sauté-pan, surround them with boiling water to half the depth of the moulds, cover with a greased paper, and cook for about 25 minutes or until the farce is firm. Turn out, mask with a good white sauce, and serve.
Time.—From 1½ to 1¾ hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 10 to 12 timbales.
Note.—If preferred, the mixture may be cooked in one large mould. Cooked veal and ham may be used instead of the raw meat; in that case the cream should be omitted from the farce, and 4 ozs. of flour, 1 oz. of butter, and ½ a pint of water used for the panada, instead of the quantities given above.
742.—LOIN OF VEAL, DAUBE STYLE. (Fr.—Carré de Veau à la Daube.)
Ingredients.—The chump end of a loin of veal, forcemeat, No. 396, a few slices of bacon, 1 small onion sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 blade of mace, 10 peppercorns, 1 pint of veal stock or water, ½ a pint of tomato sauce, No. 389, salt and pepper.
Method.—Remove the bones, fill the cavity with forcemeat, and bind or skewer into a good shape. Boil the stock or water in a large stewpan, put in the meat, cover with slices of bacon, and add the onion, mace, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and a good seasoning of salt. Simmer gently for 2½ hours, basting frequently, but do not add more stock or water until absolutely necessary to prevent the meat from burning. When ready, strain the liquor into a small stewpan, boil rapidly until reduced to a glaze, with which coat the meat thickly. Serve the tomato sauce separately.
Time.—About 3 hours. Average Cost,1s. 4d Seasonable at any time.
743.—LOIN OF VEAL, BAKED OR ROASTED. (Fr.—Longe de Veau Farcie.)
Ingredients.—4 or 5 lb. of loin of veal, a few slices of bacon, veal ​meat (see p. 281), ¾ of a pint of brown sauce, a little meat glaze, lemons.
Method.—Bone the veal, season the inside with salt and pepper, fill with forcemeat, and skewer or tie it in the form of a roll. Baste well with hot dripping, cover with a greased paper, and either bake or roast from 2 to 2¼ hours, basting frequently. Meanwhile boil the bones for stock for the brown sauce (see p. 233). Half an hour before serving remove the paper from the meat and brush it lightly over with the glaze, drain away all the fat in the tin, but leave the brown sediment. Pour the brown sauce into the tin, return to the oven to finish cooking, and baste frequently. (When economy is not an object, the veal should be basted with cream instead of brown sauce, the cream being afterwards slightly thickened, seasoned, and served with the meat). Roll the bacon, put on a skewer, and fry or bake until crisp, or it may be broiled before the fire, and cut into dice. Remove the meat to a hot dish, garnish with rolls of bacon and cut lemon, or little piles of bacon dice and lemon. Strain the sauce, and serve it separately in a tureen.
Time.—To cook the veal, 2 to 2¼ hours. Average Cost, 10d. to 11d. per lb.
Note.—The above recipe is equally applicable to a shoulder and fillet of veal; and a loin of veal is not necessarily boned; a little forcemeat may be inserted, and the remainder made into small balls. The bone of the fillet is nearly always removed, and the cavity filled with forcemeat.
744.—LIVER SAUSAGES. (Fr.—Sausisson de Foie de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of calf's liver, ¾ of a lb. of fat bacon, ½ a lb. of breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ¼ of a teaspoonful of powdered thyme, ¼ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, ¼ of a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of salt, ¼ of a teaspoonful of pepper, 3 eggs, skins.
Method.—Chop the liver and bacon very finely, mix them together, and add the breadcrumbs and the rest of the dry ingredients. Stir in the eggs, and press the mixture into the skins, leaving room for the bread to swell. Put them aside for 5 or 6 hours, then prick well, fry in hot fat until well-browned, and serve either on toast or with mashed potato.
Time.—Altogether, 6 or 7 hours. Average Cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
745.—LIVER SAUSAGES. (Another Method).
Ingredients.—2 lb. of calfs' liver, ¾ of a lb. of pickled pork or fat bacon, 1 small onion very finely-chopped, ½ a teaspoonful of powdered sage, salt and pepper, sausage skins.
​Method.—Wash and dry the liver, chop it finely, and pass it through a wire sieve. Chop the pork or bacon finely, mix it with the liver, add the onion, sage, and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper. Mix well together, three-quarters fill the skins with the preparation, place in boiling water, and simmer gently for ½ an hour. The sausages may be used fresh, but if preferred smoked, they should be hung for 2 or 3 days in the smoke of a peat or wood fire. The sausages may be eaten without further cooking, or, if preferred, they may be fried and served hot.
Time.—To boil, ½ an hour; to smoke, 2 or 3 days. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Seasonable at any time.
746.—MINCED VEAL. (Fr.—Hachis de Veau.)
Ingredients. 1½ lb. of cold veal, 1 pint of white sauce (see Sauces), forcemeat balls, the grated rind of ½ a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method.—Remove all skin and gristle, cut the meat into very small pieces, but do not chop it. Make the white sauce as directed, add to it the lemon-rind and lemon-juice, season to taste, put in the meat, cover closely, and let it remain in the sauce for ½ an hour WITHOUT BOILING. Serve on a hot dish, garnished with the forcemeat balls and slices of lemon.
Time.—To prepare and cook, from 1 to 1¼ hours. Average Cost, 1s. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
The Calf a Symbol of Divine Power.—Among the Egyptians the ox was regarded a symbol of the god Osiris, and was represented with a disc symbolical of the sun, one of the forms under which Osiris, the husband of Isis and father of Horus, and the source of all beneficent agencies to mankind, was represented. The sacred bull Apis was supposed to be animated with the soul of Osiris; special reverence being accorded to the Apis for this reason. From the Egyptians the Israelites adopted the worship of the calf, which incurred the displeasure of Jehovah, and drew down upon the people the stern denunciations of the prophets. It has been the subject of considerable controversy whether the Jews intended the golden calf and the calves of Jeroboam as the symbol of Osiris, or as a cherubic representation of the Elohim, the Almighty Intelligence which brought the Israelites out of Egypt.
747.—MINCED VEAL WITH MACARONI. (Fr.—Hachis aux Macaroni.)
Ingredients.—¾ of a lb. of cold roast veal finely-minced, 3 ozs. of ham finely-minced, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 4 ozs. of macaroni, 2 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, 1 large or 2 small eggs, butter, nutmeg, salt and pepper, gravy.
Method.—Mix the veal, ham and breadcrumbs together, add salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste, moisten with the gravy, and as much beaten egg as is necessary to bind the mixture together. Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender, but not broken, and arrange it at the bottom and sides of a well-buttered mould or basin in some simple form, such as trellis or stripes. Cut the remainder ​into short lengths, mix them with the meat preparation, and press the whole lightly into the mould or basin. Cover with a greased paper, steam gently for 1 hour, then carefully unmould and serve good gravy, previously made from veal bones and trimmings, separately.
Time.—To steam, 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d., in addition to the meat Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
748.—MINCED VEAL WITH POACHED EGGS. (Fr.—Hachis aux Œufs pochés.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of cold veal, 6 poached eggs, 1 pint of stock or water, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 small onion, ½ a small carrot, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, the grated rind of ½ a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method.—Remove the bones and break them into small pieces, trim off the brown outside the meat, put both bones and trimmings into a stewpan with the onion and carrot sliced, cloves, mace, lemon-rind, and a little salt and pepper, and boil gently for at least 2 hours. Cut the meat into very small pieces and put them aside until wanted. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Strain the stock from the bones, add it to the butter and flour, stir until it boils, pour half of it into another stewpan, and add the minced veal to the remainder. Season to taste, put in the lemon-juice, cover closely, and draw the stewpan to the side of the stove for ½ an hour. Care must be taken not to let the contents boil, and the preparation must be occasionally stirred. Poach the eggs and trim them neatly. Arrange the mince in the centre of a hot dish, place the poached eggs round the base, and serve the rest of the brown sauce in a tureen.
Time.—About 2½ hours, altogether. Average Cost, 1s. to 1s. 3d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 6 persons.
749.—MIROTON OF VEAL. (Fr.—Miroton de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of cold roast veal, cut into thin slices, ¾ of a pint of stock, ¾ of an oz. of butter, ¾ of an oz. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ¼ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, browned breadcrumbs, 1 small onion sliced, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into thin slices, and make the stock from the bones and trimmings (see Scotch Collops, No. 760.) Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion lightly, then add the flour, and cook gently until well-browned. Add the prepared stock, stir until boiling, season to taste, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Cover the bottom of the dish in which the miroton is to be served with brown sauce, on the top place the slices of meat, sprinkling each layer with parsley, lemon-rind, salt and pepper, and adding a thin covering of sauce. Cover the ​top layer thickly with browned breadcrumbs, bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes, then serve.
Time.—To bake, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. or 3d., in addition to the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
750.—MOULDED MINCED VEAL. (See Gâteau of Cold Veal.)
751.—NECK OF VEAL, BRAISED. (Fr.—Carré de Veau braissé.)
Ingredients.—3 lb. of the best end of the neck, 1 pint of white stock, 2 ozs. of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of capers, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 very small turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, salt and pepper, glaze.
Method.—Saw the bones across, detach the short pieces of the rib bones, and fold the flap under, slice the vegetables, put them together with the bouquet-garni, mace, cloves, and 1 oz. of butter into a shallow stewpan, nearly cover the vegetables with stock, and add the remainder gradually to replace that which boils away. Place the veal on the bed of vegetables, cover with a greased paper, put on the lid, and cook gently for 3 hours. Meanwhile melt the remaining oz. of butter in a small stewpan, add the flour and fry gently until it acquires a nut-brown colour. When the meat is tender, remove it to a hot dish, and brush it over with glaze. Strain the liquor in the stewpan on to the butter and flour, stir until smooth, if necessary reduce with a little stock, add the capers, lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve separately in a tureen.
Time.—About 3 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
752.—NECK OF VEAL, STEWED. (Fr.—Carré de Veau étuvé.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of neck of veal ½ a pint of white stock, 2 or 3 rashers of bacon, crisply fried and cut into dice, 6 SMALL tomatoes, 2 ozs. of butter, ½ an oz. of flour, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the grated rind of ½ a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream (if liked), meat-glaze.
Method.—Trim the meat, and when the bones are long saw them across and detach the rib bones. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the meat lightly on both sides, then add the lemon-rind, parsley, and a good seasoning of pepper, cover closely, and cook very gently for 2 or 2¼ hours. The meat must be well basted, and the stewpan stand on a cool part of the stove to avoid burning the butter. Meanwhile fry ​or broil the bacon and cut it into dice; bake or broil the tomatoes until tender, but not too soft. Remove the meat from the stewpan, brush it lightly over with meat glaze, and keep it hot. Have ready the flour mixed smoothly with a little cold stock, and the remainder of the stock boiling in a stewpan, add the moistened flour to the stock, stir and boil for 5 minutes, then strain and add the butter in which the meat was cooked, the lemon-juice, and the cream. Season to taste, bring to the boil, and serve in a tureen. Garnish the dish alternately with little bunches of bacon and tomatoes. When economy is an object, dripping may be substituted for the butter, and the tomatoes and meat glaze omitted.
Time.—From 2½ to 2¾ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
753—POTTED HEAD. (See Collared Head.)
754.—POTTED VEAL.
Ingredients.—1 lb. of veal finely-chopped, ¼ of a lb. of ham finely-chopped, butter, mace, cayenne, salt and pepper.
Method.—Place both veal and ham in a buttered jar, add 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, and tie a buttered paper over the mouth. Stand the jar in a saucepan or tin of boiling water, and cook gently for 3 hours either on the stove or in a moderately-cool oven. Pound the meat finely in a mortar, adding gradually the liquor in the jar, and as much oiled butter as is required to reduce the whole to a perfectly smooth paste. Season liberally with cayenne, salt and pepper, add mace to taste, and pass the preparation through a sieve. Press into small pots, cover with clarified butter, and use as required.
Time.—To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. to 1s. 9d. Seasonable at any time.
755.—PRESSED VEAL. (Fr.—Galantine de Veau.)
Ingredients.—A breast of veal, 1 large onion sliced, 1 carrot sliced, ½ a turnip sliced, 2 or 3 strips of celery sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, salt.
Method.—Remove all bones and tendons, trim neatly, season liberally, roll up lightly, and bind securely with tape. Put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan just large enough to contain the meat, add the prepared vegetables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and a good seasoning of salt. Place the meat on the top, add stock or water to the depth of the vegetables but not enough to touch the meat; cover with a greased paper and put on a close-fitting lid. Cook very gently for 3 hours, basting frequently, then place the meat between two heavily-weighted dishes, and let it remain until cold. Strain the stock, and ​on the following day boil it rapidly until reduced to a glaze. Trim the meat to a good shape, brush it over with glaze, and serve as a luncheon or breakfast dish.
Time.—To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to 10d. per lb.
756.—QUENELLES VEAL (COLD). (Fr.—Chaudfroid Quenelles de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of fillet of veal, 1 oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, ¼ of a pint of stock, 2 eggs, Senn's aromatic seasoning, pepper and salt, ¼ pint white sauce, aspic jelly, 4 sheets French leaf gelatine.
Method.—Blend the butter and flour in a stewpan, add the stock, cook until the mixture leaves the sides of the stewpan, and adheres together in a smooth panada, then put aside to cool. Mince the meat, and pound it with the eggs, a pinch of aromatic seasoning, pepper and salt, and the panada. Rub the mixture through a wire sieve. Shape the quenelles in a dessertspoon, poach until firm, and lay them on a sieve to get cold.
Add the French leaf gelatine and a tablespoonful of aspic jelly to the sauce, and when beginning to set coat the quenelles with the preparation. The quenelles may be decorated tastefully with sprigs of chervil, fancifully-cut chilies, or truffles. Serve on a border of aspic, with a nicely-seasoned salad of green peas in the centre.
Time.—About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 10 quenelles.
757.—QUENELLES OF VEAL. (Fr.—Quenelles de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of fillet of veal, ¼ of a pint of good stock, 1 oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 eggs, salt and pepper.
Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and the stock, stir and cook until the mixture forms a compact mass round the bowl of the spoon, then put it aside to cool. Pass the veal 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, or chop it finely. Pound the panada (flour, butter and stock), and the meat together until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, season to taste, and pound all well together. Rub the mixture through a wire sieve, and then shape into quenelles. To do this it is necessary to use 2 dessertspoonfuls, or smaller spoons if making quenelles for soup. Dip one spoon into boiling water, fill it with the mixture, press it from the sides and raise it in the centre with a knife dipped in hot water, making it a nice oval shape; take another spoon, dip it into hot water, scoop the mixture carefully from the first spoon into the second, and place in a buttered sauté-pan. When all the quenelles are in the pan, pour in sufficient boiling water to nearly ​cover them; have ready a sheet of greased paper, place it on the top of the quenelles, and cook them gently for about ½ an hour. Drain, arrange in a circle or straight row, and mask with a good white sauce.
Time.—To make and cook, from 1¼ to 1½ hours. Average Cost, 1s. 6d. to 1s. 8d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
758.—RECHAUFFÈ OF VEAL. (Fr.—Rechauffé de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of cold roast veal, forcemeat, No. 369, sippets of toast, 1 tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped gherkin or capers, ¾ of a pint of water, ¾ of an oz. of butter, ¾ of an oz. of flour, 1 small onion, 1 blade of mace, lemon-juice, salt and pepper, fat.
Method.—Cut the meat into thin slices and put them aside. Place the bones and trimmings in a stewpan with the onion, mace, and a little salt and pepper, and cover with cold water. Simmer gently for at least 1 hour, then strain, and add stock or water make up the ¾ of a pint. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook slowly until it acquires a pale-brown colour, then add the strained stock. Stir until boiling, add the lemon-juice, season to taste, and put in the meat. Stand the stewpan where the contents will be kept just below simmering point, and let it remain for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile make the forcemeat as directed, form into small balls, and fry or bake in hot fat until crisp and brown. Place the meat on a hot dish, strain the sauce, season to taste, add the gherkin, and pour over the meat. Garnish with forcemeat balls, and sippets of toast, then serve.
Time.—About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d. or 7d., in addition to the meat. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
759.—RISSOLETTES OF VEAL. (Fr.—Rissolettes de Veau.)
Ingredients.—3 ozs. of lean cooked veal, 1 oz. of lean cooked ham or tongue, ¼ of a pint of white stock, 1 tablespoonful of cream, ½ an oz. of flour, ½ an oz. of butter, the finely-grated rind of ½ a lemon, a pinch of salt and pepper, 1 egg, vermicelli, 4 ozs. of rough puff-paste, frying-fat.
Method.—Chop the meat very finely; make a sauce with the flour, butter and stock, add to it the meat, lemon-rind and mace, season well, and stir over the fire until well mixed. Cool slightly, then add the cream, and turn the preparation on to a plate. Roll the paste out thinly (it must not be thicker than foolscap paper), cut it into rounds of 1¼ or 2 inches diameter, place a little of the meat mixture on one half, moisten the edges of the paste, fold the other half over, making the croquette half-moon or crescent shape, and press the edges of the ​paste together. Brush the rissolettes over with beaten egg, roll them in crushed vermicelli (crushed in the hand), and fry them until lightly browned in hot fat. Arrange them in a pyramidal form, on a folded serviette or dish-paper, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Time.—From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for a small dish.
760.—SCOTCH COLLOPS. (Fr.—Rechauffé de veau à l'Eccossaise.)
Ingredients.—Cold roast veal, ½ a pint of veal stock, rashers of bacon rolled and fried, ¾ of an oz. of butter, ¾ of an oz. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 2 or 3 thin strips of lemon-rind, 1 small onion, mace or nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into slices ½ an inch thick, and trim them into oval or round pieces from 2 to 3 inches in size. Score them on both sides with a sharp knife, sprinkle them liberally with salt, pepper and powdered mace or nutmeg, and put aside. Place any bones and trimmings there may be in a stawpan with the onion, lemon-rind, a little mace or nutmeg, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover with cold water, simmer gently for 1 hour, then strain and add stock or water to make up the ½ pint. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook the mixture slowly until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then add the strained stock. Stir until boiling, season to taste, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Meanwhile dip the collops in a little flour seasoned with salt and pepper, fry them lightly in a little hot butter or fat, then drain and arrange neatly on a hot dish. Add the lemon-juice to the prepared sauce, strain round the collops, garnish with the crisply-fried rolls of bacon, and serve.
Time.—About 1½ hours. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient—Allow 1 lb. for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
761.—SCOTCH COLLOPS. (Another way.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of lean mutton (chops), 1 oz. of butter, ½ a small onion, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 tablespoonful of flour, stock, salt and pepper, croutons of bread, 1 gill of stock.
Method.—Free the meat from bones and fat, and chop it or mince it evenly, but not too finely. Chop finely the onion, fry, i.e. blend, in the butter, put in the meat and cook quickly over the fire for a few minutes. Sprinkle in the flour, stir for a while and moisten with the stock, boil up, skim and cook gently for about ½ an hour. Season to taste, add the chopped parsley. Dish up, and garnish with croutons of fried bread.
​Time.—About ¾ of an hour. Average Cost, 1s. 2d. to 1s. 4d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
762.—SHOULDER OF VEAL BAKED. (Fr.—Epaule de Veau rôtie.)
Ingredients.—A shoulder of veal, a few rashers of bacon (allow 2 to each person), forcemeat (see p. 281), salt, pepper, flour, fat for basting.
Method.—Take out the bone (or order it to be sent in already boned). Press the forcemeat tightly inside the shoulder, and fasten the sides with small skewers. Have ready the meat tin, with a sufficient quantity of boiling water in the lower tin, and in the upper 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of hot fat. Put in the meat, baste well, bake in a hot oven for 10 or 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature by putting in the damper, drawing the fire away, or leaving open the oven door. Baste frequently and bake gently until the meat is done, the time required depending more upon the thickness of a joint than upon its weight; the rule of so many minutes to each lb. serves as a rough, but not absolutely reliable guide in cooking. Meanwhile prepare the gravy by boiling the bones removed from the meat (see Brown Gravy, p. 216), and a few minutes before the meat is ready to serve, roll up the rashers of bacon, put a skewer through them, and bake in the oven until crisp. To serve, remove the skewers from the meat, place it on a hot dish, garnish with the rolls of bacon, and, if liked, slices of lemon. A piece of boiled ham or bacon may be substituted for the rolls of bacon. Serve the gravy separately in a tureen.
Time.—To bake a large shoulder, about 3 hours. Average Cost, from 9d. to 10d. per lb.
763.—SHOULDER OF VEAL, STEWED. (Fr.—Epaule de Veau étouffée.)
Ingredients.—A small shoulder of veal, 12 ozs. of sausage meat, 6 ozs. of veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), a few slices of bacon, 2 lemons, 2 tomatoes, 1¼ pints of white sauce (made of equal quantites of milk and veal liquor), salt and pepper, 2 onions, 2 small carrots, 1 small turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns.
Method.—Bone the veal, flatten it on the table, season well with salt and pepper, spread on half the sausage meat, cover with half the forcemeat, then add the remainder of the sausage meat, and cover with forcemeat as before. Roll up tightly, bind with tape, put it with the bones, prepared vegetables, herbs, and peppercorns into boiling water, boil quickly for 10 minutes, add a little cold water to reduce the temperature, and simmer gently until done (see notes on boiling, ​p. 404). Remove to a hot dish, pour a little sauce over, garnish with rolls of bacon, and slices of tomato and lemon, and serve the remainder of the sauce in a tureen.
Time.—Allow 25 to 30 minutes to each lb. of veal. Average Cost, 2s. exclusive of the meat.
The Fattening of Calves.—The method adopted for fattening young calves is very simple. Their principal article of diet is milk, with which they are freely supplied. The house or shed where the calves are kept is well ventilated, and the temperature so regulated that the extremes of heat and cold are avoided. A moderate amount of light only is admitted, and lumps of chalk, which calves are fond of licking, are placed within their reach. Thus fed and tended, at the end of 8 or 9 weeks the young animals, frequently attain the weight of 18 to 20 stone.
764.—SWEETBREADS, STEWED. (See. No. 272)
765.—SWEETBREADS (To Blanch.) (Fr.—Ris de Veau.)
In whatever form the sweetbreads may be subsequently dressed, they must be first blanched, to render them white and firm. One hour's soaking, at least, in cold water, is necessary to free them from blood, and they may with advantage be allowed to remain longer. They should then be put into a stewpan, covered with cold water, and brought slowly to the boil, and after 2 or 3 minutes' gentle cooking, may be either transferred to a basin of cold water and allowed to remain in it until cold, or well washed in cold water and pressed between 2 dishes until cold.
766.—SWEETBREAD FRIED. (Fr.—Fritot de Ris de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 calf's heart sweetbread, 1 pint of white stock or water (when water is used, add a little onion, carrot, and turnip), 1 egg, breadcrumbs, 1 oz. of butter or frying-fat.
Method.—Blanch the sweetbread (see No. 765), then put it into a stewpan with the stock, add seasoning if necessary, and simmer gently for 40 minutes. Press between 2 plates until cold, then cut into slices, brush over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry in the butter in a sauté-pan, or in a deep pan of hot fat, until lightly browned. Drain well, and serve on a folded serviette, or dish paper, garnished with fried parsley.
Time.—1¼ hours, after the sweetbread is blanched. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
767.—SWEETBREADS, BRAISED. (Fr.—Ris de Veau, braisée.)
Ingredients.—A pair of calf's sweetbreads, ¾ of a pint of stock, 1 small ​onion, 1 small carrot, ½ a small turnip, 1 strip of celery, 6 peppercorns, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), glaze, 1 croûte of fried bread, ½ a pint of good gravy or tomato sauce (see Sauces).
Method.—Blanch the sweetbreads, (see No. 765) slice the vegetables, put them into a stewpan with the bouquet and peppercorns, nearly cover them with stock, adding more when required. Wrap the sweetbreads in a buttered paper, place them on the top of the vegetables, put on the lid, and cook gently for ¾ of an hour. In the meantime cut a block (croûte) of bread to fit the dish, and not less than 2 inches in thickness. Fry in hot fat, drain well, place the sweetbreads on the top of the bread, brush them over with glaze, pour round the gravy, or tomato sauce, and serve. If preferred, the dish may be garnished with little groups of green peas, haricots verts, or a macedoine (mixed garnish) of vegetables, either placed at the four corners, or at intervals round the base of the croûte.
Time.—About ¾ of an hour, after the sweetbreads are blanched. Average Cost, 5s. to 7s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Season and Choice of Veal.—The best veal and the largest supply it to be had from February to the end of July. It comes principally from the western counties. In purchasing veal, special attention should be given to its closeness of grain and the whiteness of the flesh, the latter being an important consideration. Veal may be bought at all seasons of the year, and of excellent quality, but except during the months when the supply is plentiful, it is higher in price.
768.—SWEETBREADS, CONTÉ STYLE. (Fr.—Ris de Veau à la Conté.)
Ingredients.—2 heart sweetbreads, larding bacon, a few slices of tongue, 2 large truffles, ½ a pint of stock, glaze. For the mirepoix (a foundation preparation of vegetables, herbs, and bacon, for brown soups, sauces, or for braised meats): a sliced onion, a sliced carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, a few small slices of bacon, chicken or veal quenelles, ⅓ of a pint of Madere, or demi-glaze sauce (see Sauces).
Method.—Blanch and press the sweetbreads (see No. 765), lard them on the best side with strips of bacon and tongue, and stud the centre of each with short strips of truffle inserted in small holes made with the point of a knife. Line a sauté-pan with the mirepoix, nearly cover the vegetables with stock, adding more when required, lay the sweetbreads on the top, and cover with a buttered paper. Boil up, then transfer the sauté-pan to a slow oven, cook gently for 45 minutes, basting frequently during that time, and a few minutes before serving brush over with glaze. Meanwhile, shape the quenelles in small teaspoons (see No. 757), and poach them in a little stock. Cut a croûte of bread to fit the dish, and fry it brown in hot fat. Take up the sweetbreads, strain and skim the liquor, reduce by rapid boiling, then add it to the madere, or demi-glaze sauce. Dish the sweetbreads on the croûte, garnish with the quenelles, decorate with fancifully-cut slices ​of truffle, pour a little of the sauce round the dish, and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat.
Time.—From 1¼ to 1½ hours, after the sweetbreads are blanched. Average Cost, 10s. 6d. to 12s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
769.—SWEETBREADS, FRIED, AND SPINACH. (Fr.—Ris de Veau Frit aux Epinards.)
Ingredients.—A pair of sweetbreads, ½ pint of spinach purée, ½ pint THICK Béchamel sauce, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, ½ a pint Madere, Robert, or piquante sauce (see Sauces), frying-fat.
Method.—Prepare and blanch the sweetbreads (see No. 765), boil them for 10 minutes in slightly salted water, and when cool cut them into slices ¼ of an inch in thickness. Have the Béchamel sauce ready and nearly cold; season each slice with salt and pepper, coat both sides with the sauce, and, if possible, put them on ice until the sauce sets. Now dip the slices into beaten egg, coat them very carefully with breadcrumbs, and fry until lightly browned in hot fat. Dish in a circle on a thin border of mashed potato, fill the centre with the spinach purée (see Vegetables as to method of preparation), pour the sauce round the base of the dish, and serve.
Time.—About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
770.—SWEETBREADS FRIED IN BATTER. (Fr.—Ris de Veau frit à la Villeroi.)
Ingredients.—A pair of sweetbreads, ½ a pint of Béchamel sauce, ½ a pint of tomato or piquante sauce (see Sauces), frying-fat. For the batter: 4 ozs. of flour, ¼ of a pint of tepid water, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, the whites of 2 eggs, salt.
Method.—Make a smooth batter of the flour, salad-oil, tepid water, and a little salt, and when ready to use add lightly the stiffly-whipped whites of eggs. Prepare, blanch, cook and coat the slices of sweetbread as directed in the preceding recipe. When the Béchamel sauce is set, dip the slices carefully into the batter, and fry them until golden-brown in a deep pan of hot fat. Drain, sprinkle with salt and pepper, pile them on a hot dish, and garnish with fried parsley. Serve the tomato, or piquante sauce in a sauce-boat.
Time.—About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
771.—SWEETBREADS WITH SUPREME SAUCE. (Fr.—Ris de Veau à la Suprême.)
Ingredients.—2 heart sweetbreads, ¾ pint of suprême sauce (see ​Sauces), 1 pint of white stock, 12 preserved mushrooms, croûte of fried bread, salt and pepper, frying-fat.
Method.—Prepare and blanch the sweetbreads (see No. 765), put them into a stewpan with the stock, and a little sliced onion and carrot, unless the stock is sufficiently flavoured with these, cover with a buttered paper, and simmer gently for 40 minutes. Meanwhile, cut a croûte of bread to fit the dish, and not less than 2 inches in depth, and fry it lightly in hot fat. Prepare the Suprême sauce as directed, cut the mushrooms into slices, and add them to it. Dish the sweetbreads on the croûte of bread, and pour the sauce over. The dish may be garnished with little groups of haricots verts, green peas, or macedoine.
Time.—About ¾ of an hour after the sweetbread is larded. Average Cost, 6s. to 8s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
772.—SWEETBREADS WITH ITALIAN SAUCE. (Fr.—Ris de Veau à l'Italienne.)
Ingredients.—2 heart sweetbreads, larding bacon, ½ a pint of Italienne sauce (see Sauces), ¾ of a pint of stock, 12 small quenelles of veal or chicken (see No. 411), 12 preserved mushrooms, a croûte of fried bread, salt and pepper, a mirepoix of 1 onion, 1 carrot, ½ a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, frying-fat, glaze.
Method.—Prepare, blanch and press the sweetbreads (see No. 765), and lard them with strips of bacon 1¼ inches long, and about ⅛ of an inch wide. Slice the vegetables, put them into a stewpan with the bouquet-garni and peppercorns, nearly cover with stock, and add the remainder as that in the stewpan boils away. Place the sweetbreads on the top of the vegetables, cover with a buttered paper, and braise either on the stove or in the oven for 40 minutes, basting frequently. When ready, transfer to a baking-tin, and put into a hot oven for a few minutes, to brown and crisp the bacon. Have ready a croûte of fried bread, cut to the size of the dish, and 2 inches or more in depth, place the sweetbreads on the top of it, and brush lightly over with glaze. Pour a little of the sauce round the dish, and serve the remainder separately. Garnish with the quenelles and the mushrooms, previously heated in a little of their own liquor, and serve.
Time.—About 1 hour, after the sweetbreads are blanched. Average Cost, 6s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
773.—SWEETBREADS, DUBARRY STYLE. (Fr.—Ris de Veau à la Dubarry.)
Ingredients.—2 heart sweetbreads, larding bacon, slices of cooked ox-tongue, ¼ of a pint of Hollandaise sauce, ¼ of a pint of Madere sauce (see Sauces), ½ a pint of stock, a mirepoix of sliced onion, 1 sliced carrot, ​½ a sliced turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, 1 large cauliflower, salt and pepper.
Method.—Blanch, press, and braise the sweetbreads (see Nos. 765). Prepare the 2 sauces as directed, cook the cauliflower, divide it into small sprays, re-heat in the Hollandaise sauce, and warm the slices of tongue between 2 plates over a saucepan of boiling water. Remove the sweetbreads from the stewpan, strain the liquor into a smaller pan, boil rapidly, and when sufficiently reduced add to it the Madere sauce, and season to taste. Cut the sweetbreads into slices, arrange them with alternate slices of tongue in a circle on a hot dish, strain the Madere sauce over, and pile the cauliflower in the centre. Serve hot.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 7s. 6d. to 9s. 6d. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
774.—SWEETBREAD, ESCALOPES OF. (Fr.—Escalopes de Ris de Veau.)
Ingredients.—A pair of sweetbreads, ½ pint of spinach purée, (see Vegetables), ½ a pint of tomato sauce (see Sauces), ½ a pint of stock, 1 sliced onion, 1 sliced carrot, ½ a sliced turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, meat glaze, 1 truffle, salt and pepper.
Method.—Blanch the sweetbreads (see No. 765). Place the vegetables in a stewpan, with the sweetbreads on top, add the peppercorns, bouquet-garni, and stock, cover with a buttered paper and close-fitting lid, and braise gently for 40 minutes (basting occasionally). Take them up, cut into neat slices, place them in a baking-tin, brush over with glaze, surround to half their depth with the stock in which they were cooked, and put them into a moderate oven for 10 minutes. Sprinkle each with a little chopped truffle, dish in a circle on a border of lightly-browned potato, fill the centre with the spinach purée, and pour the sauce round.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6s. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
775.—SWEETBREAD, ESCALOPES OF AND TOMATOES. (Fr.—Escalopes de Ris de Veau à la Tomate.)
Ingredients.—A pair of sweetbreads, 1 lb. of tomatoes, 1 dessertspoonful of cornflour or arrowroot, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a few drops of carmine or cochineal, ½ a pint of Béchamel sauce (see Sauces), ½ pint of spinach purée (see Vegetables), a little finely-chopped truffle, ½ a pint of stock, vegetables, salt and pepper, sugar.
Method.—Prepare and cook the sweetbreads as directed in the ​preceding recipe, and cut them into slices. Rub the tomatoes through a fine hair sieve, put the purée into a small stewpan, add a little salt and pepper, and when hot put in the cornflour (previously mixed smoothly with a little cold water), and stir until the purée thickens. Add to it the lemon-juice, a pinch of sugar, and either carmine or cochineal drop by drop until the desired colour is attained. Spread the purée quickly on one side of each escalop, sprinkle on a little truffle, arrange them in a circle on a border of mashed potato, fill the centre with the purée of spinach (green peas or haricots verts may be substituted), and pour the Béchamel sauce round.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 7s. 6d. to 9s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
776.—VEAL, ESCALOPES OF, RUSSIAN STYLE. (Fr.—Escalopes de Veau à la Russe.)
Ingredients.—2 to 2½ lb. of knucles of veal, 4 ozs. of pork, 4 ozs. of beef marrow, 3 oz. of clarified butter, 2 ozs. of anchovy paste, ½ a pint of preserved mushrooms, 1 yolk of egg, 1 teaspoonful of mixed herbs, salt and pepper, breadcrumbs, ¼ of a pint of demi-glaze sauce, fried breadcrumbs.
Method.—Cut the veal into even-sized scallops of 2¼ or 2½ inches diameter, and fry them in 2 ozs. of butter over a quick fire until lightly browned. Press them lightly between 2 dishes until cold, strain the butter, and use it afterwards for sautéing the mushrooms. Cut the pork and marrow into small pieces, pound them in a mortar until smooth, then add the herbs, anchovy paste, the yolk of egg, seasoning to taste, and when thoroughly incorporated rub through a wire sieve. Melt the remaining oz. of butter, spread one side of the scallops thickly with the farce or stuffing, cover with fried breadcrumbs, sprinkle with melted butter, then place them on a buttered baking-sheet, and cook in a moderately-hot oven for about 15 minutes. Re-heat the butter in a sauté-pan, put in the mushrooms (previously well-drained), sauté for a few minutes, then add the demi-glaze sauce, season to taste, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Dish the scallops in a circle on a hot dish, and place the ragoût of mushrooms in the centre.
Time.—1¼ to 1½ hours. Average Cost, 4s. 3d. to 5s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
777.—VEAL, FRICANDELLES OF. (Fr.—Fricandeau de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of lean veal finely-minced, ½ a lb. of suet very finely-chopped, 1 thick slice of bread, 3 eggs, ½ a pint of brown sauce made from bones and trimmings of the meat (see "Scotch Collops," ​No. 760), ¼ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, salt and pepper, frying-fat, egg and breadcrumbs, milk, lemon.
Method.—Soak the bread in a little milk. Squeeze as dry as possible, and beat out the lumps. Mix the veal, suet, lemon-rind, a good pinch of nutmeg, and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper well together, stir in the eggs, and shape the mixture into balls about the size of a large walnut. Drop them into fast-boiling stock or seasoned water, cook for 6 minutes, then drain and dry well. Coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Make the sauce as directed, strain and return to the stewpan, season to taste, and add the balls. Stew gently for ½ an hour, and serve garnished with sliced lemon.
Time.—1 hour, after the sauce is made. Average Cost, 1s. 8d. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
778.—VEAL AU GRATIN. (Fr.—Hachis de Veau au gratin.)
Ingredients.—¾ of a lb. of cold roast veal finely-minced, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, ¾ of a pint of stock, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 small onion, mace or nutmeg, salt and pepper, breadcrumbs.
Method.—Place any bones and trimmings there may be in a stewpan with the onion, a blade of mace or a little nutmeg, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover with cold water, simmer gently for 1 hour, then strain and add stock or water to make up the ¾ of a pint. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook slowly until it acquires a pale-brown colour, then add the strained stock. Stir until boiling, add the lemon-juice, season to taste, simmer gently for 20 minutes, and add to the meat. Fill well-buttered scallop shells with the preparation, cover it rather thickly with breadcrumbs, and add a few bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven until the surface is nicely-browned, then serve.
Time.—To bake, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 3d., in addition to the meat. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
779.—VEAL CAKE. (Fr.—Gâteau de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of lean uncooked veal, ½ a lb. of bacon, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1 teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley, the grated rind of 1 lemon, salt and pepper, ¼ of a pint of stock (about).
Method.—Cut the veal and bacon into dice, cut the eggs into sections or slices, and arrange some of them in a pattern on the bottom of the buttered mould; mix the parsley, lemon-rind, flavourings and seasonings together. Cover the bottom of the mould with a thick layer of veal, on the top of it place a thin layer of bacon, add a few slices of egg, and sprinkle well with the seasoning. Repeat until the mould is full, pour in the warm stock, cover with a greased paper, place the ​mould in a tin containing water, and bake for about 3 hours in a slow oven. Add a little more hot stock as soon as the mould is taken out of the oven. When cold, turn out of the mould, garnish with tufts of parsley, and serve.
Time.—To cook, about 3 hours. Average Cost, about 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
780.—VEAL CUTLETS À LA MAINTENON. (Fr.—Côtelettes de Veau à la Maintenon.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of fillet or neck of veal, butter or fat for frying, ¾ of a pint of white stock, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 oz. of ham finely-shredded, 1 shallot finely-chopped, 1 or 2 thin strips of lemon-rind, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the veal into thin slices, which afterwards trim into neat cutlets. Fry these until lightly browned in hot fat or butter, and put them aside. Melt the ounce of butter in a stewpan, add the ham and shallot, toss over the fire for a few minutes, and sprinkle in the flour. Stir and cook slowly until a light-brown colour is obtained, then add the stock and lemon-rind, and season to taste. Stir until boiling, simmer gently for 15 minutes, then put in the cutlets, and place the stewpan where the contents will be kept just below simmering point. Stew until tender, which may be ascertained by piercing the meat with a skewer, then take out the cutlets, strain the sauce, and put both aside until cold. Take as many sheets of white paper as there are cutlets, cut away the corners, thus giving them something of the shape of a heart, and brush them over on both sides with oil or clarified butter. Place a cutlet on each paper, cover with sauce, enfold and fasten securely, so that the sauce cannot escape. Broil over a gentle fire, or bake in a moderate oven, and serve in the paper cases.
Time.—To stew the cutlets, 1 hour; to broil, from 12 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient—Allow 2 cutlets to each person. Seasonable at any time.
781.—VEAL CHOPS. (Fr.—Côtelettes de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of loin of veal, crisply-fried rolls of bacon, flour, butter, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into chops, and trim them neatly. Run a skewer through the rolls of bacon, fry them lightly, and keep hot until required. Sprinkle the chops with pepper, fry them in the bacon fat slowly, in order that they may be thoroughly cooked without becoming too brown. Keep the chops hot, drain off any fat that remains in the pan, and add a little butter. When melted, sprinkle in a little flour, brown lightly, and add ⅓ of a pint of boiling water. Season to taste, ​boil up and strain. Arrange the chops on a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and garnish with the bacon.
Time.—To fry, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note.—For other methods of cooking veal chops, see "Haricot of Veal" and "Veal Ragoût."
782.—VEAL CUTLETS. (Fr.—Côtelettes de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of fillet or neck of veal, butter or fat for frying, ½ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ¼ of a teaspoonful of finely grated lemon-rind, salt and pepper, egg, breadcrumbs.
Method.—Cut the meat into thin slices, which afterwards trim into neat fillets. Beat the egg, mix with it the parsley, lemon-rind, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Brush the cutlets over with this preparation, coat them carefully with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot butter or fat until nicely browned. Serve with either tomato or piquante sauce, or, when gravy is preferred, brown a little flour in the fat in the frying-pan, add a little salt and pepper, pour in ¼ a of a pint of hot water, boil up, and strain.
Time.—To fry, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
783.—VEAL CUTLETS, FRENCH STYLE. (Fr.—Côtelettes de Veau à la Française.)
Ingredients.—5 or 6 bones of the best end of the neck of veal, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped lemon-rind, ¼ teaspoonful of fine-powdered lemon-thyme, ½ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the yolks of 2 eggs, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.
Method.—Saw off the chine-bone and the upper part of the rib-bones, leaving the latter about 3 inches long. Divide into cutlets, flatten with a cutlet-bat, trim neatly, and season with salt and pepper. Melt ½ an oz. of butter, add to it the herbs, parsley, lemon-rind, the yolks of eggs, and mix thoroughly. Dip each cutlet in this mixture, and coat with the breadcrumbs. Melt the remainder of the butter in a sauté-or frying-pan, and fry the cutlets until nicely browned on both sides. Drain, dish in a circle, put a frill on each bone, and serve with tomato or demi-glace sauce.
Time.—To cook the cutlets from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the veal. Sufficient, allow one cutlet for each person.
784.—VEAL FLADEON.
Ingredients.—½ a lb. of lean veal finely minced, ¼ of a lb. of suet very finely chopped, ¼ of a pint of stock made from bones and trimmings ​of the meat, 3 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, a good pinch of finely-grated lemon-rind, gravy or a little milk, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method.—Mix the veal, suet and breadcrumbs together, add the lemon-rind, a little grated nutmeg and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Stir in 1 egg, and as much gravy or milk as will thoroughly moisten the whole. Turn into a buttered piedish which it will half fill, and bake for 1 hour in a moderate oven. Beat the remaining 2 eggs well, add the ¼ of a pint of stock, and season to taste. Pour over the preparation, bake until set, and serve in the dish.
Time.—To bake, about 1½ hours. Average Cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
785.—-VEAL LOAF. (Fr.—Pain de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of cold roast veal finely-chopped, ½ a lb. of sausage meat, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, a little gravy or stock, 1 egg, salt and pepper.
Method.—Mix the veal, sausage meat and breadcrumbs together, season liberally with salt and pepper, and add the egg. Mix thoroughly, and add gravy or stock gradually until the whole is thoroughly moistened. Form into a short thick roll, cover lightly with flour, or, when economy is not an object, coat with egg and breadcrumbs. Bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour, basting occasionally with hot fat, and serve either hot or cold. When served hot, it should be accompanied by good gravy or some suitable sauce.
Time.—1 hour. Average Cost, 7d., in addition to the veal. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
786.—VEAL CUTLETS WITH OYSTERS. (Fr.—Côtelettes de Veau aux Huîtres.)
Ingredients. —1 lb. of fillet of veal, 12 sauce oysters, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, ½ a pint of white sauce, 2 shallots, finely-chopped, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into 6 or 7 pieces of equal size and thickness, flatten these slightly with a cutlet-bat, and trim them into a round or oval form. Melt the butter in a sautépan or frying pan, put in the shallots and cutlets, and fry thoroughly, but do not allow them to acquire much colour. Have the white sauce nearly boiling in a stewpan, put in the cutlets, shallots, and the butter in which they were fried, cover closely, and simmer gently for ½ an hour. Meanwhile stew the beards of the oysters in oyster-liquor or a little white stock for 20 minutes, then strain, and add to the contents of the stewpan. 5 minutes before serving stir in the oysters and lemon-juice, and season to taste. Arrange the cutlets neatly on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, ​and serve. The oysters should remain in the hot sauce until they lose their flabbiness, but if overcooked they will become hard and indigestible.
Time.—About ¾ hour. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
787.—VEAL, HAM AND LIVER PIE. (Fr.—Pâté de Veau.)
Ingredients.—½ a lb. of cold roast veal finely-chopped, ½ a lb. of cold boiled liver finely-chopped, ½ a lb. of cooked ham finely-chopped, ½ a lb. of sausage meat, ½ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ½ a pint of good gravy made from bones and trimmings, puff paste, or rough puff, salt and pepper.
Method.—Pound each kind of meat separately, and season to taste. Place in a piedish in layers, sprinkling each layer with parsley, and add a little of the gravy. Cover with paste, bake in a moderate oven from 35 to 40 minutes, and pour the remainder of the gravy through the hole in the top of the pie. Serve either hot or cold.
Time.—To bake, from 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
788.—VEAL, LARDED AND ROAST. (Fr.—Poitrine de Veau rôti.)
Ingredients.—3 lb. of neck of veal, larding bacon, stock, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 onion sliced, 2 carrots sliced, 1 small turnip sliced, 2 or 3 strips of celery sliced, bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, salt and pepper, fat for basting.
Method.—Saw the bones across, remove the short ends and the skin, and fold the flap under. Lard the upper surface in close rows (see No. 737). Place the prepared vegetables in a stewpan, add the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, salt to taste, and stock to barely cover the vegetables. Lay the meat on the top, cover with a greased paper, and put on the lid, which must fit closely. Cook gently for 2 hours, adding more stock when necessary. Have ready a baking-tin containing a little hot dripping, put in the meat, baste, and bake gently for ½ an hour, basting it well. Meanwhile melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook gently until the mixture acquires a nut-brown colour, then add ¾ of a pint of stock, including that from the stewpan in which the veal was braised. Stir until boiling, simmer gently for a few minutes, and season to taste. Serve the meat on a hot dish, and the sauce in a tureen.
Time.—About 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
​789.—VEAL MARBLED.
Ingredients.—Remains of a cooked tongue, an equal quantity of cooked veal, a little stock which will jelly when cold, 1 hard-boiled egg, salt and pepper.
Method.—Chop the tongue and veal separately until very fine, and if possible, pound smoothly in a mortar. Season well with salt and pepper. Divide the egg into slices or small sections, and arrange them in some simple pattern on the bottom of a small mould or basin. Place the tongue and veal in the mould in irregularly-shaped pieces, moistening each layer with stock, and allowing it to run between, and thus divide the lumps of tongue and veal. Put aside until set, then turn out and use as a breakfast, luncheon or supper dish.
Time.—2 hours to set. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. with ¼ lb. of tongue. Sufficient for 4 persons.
790.—VEAL FINGERS. (Fr.—Tranchettes de Veau.)
Ingredients.—6 ozs. of cold roast veal finely-minced, ½ an oz. of butter, ½ an oz. of flour, ⅓ of a pint of stock, ½ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 very small onion, a pinch of mace or nutmeg, salt and pepper, a little finely-chopped parsley, fingers of fried or toasted bread.
Method.—Prepare the sauce as directed in "Veal au Gratin," No. 778. Mix the veal, mace or nutmeg, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper well together, add the sauce, spread the mixture on the fingers, and sprinkle with parsley. Make thoroughly hot in the oven, and serve.
Time.—To re-heat, 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, 2d., in addition to the meat. Sufficient for 8 or 10 fingers. Seasonable at any time.
791.—VEAL OLIVES. (Fr.—Olives de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of fillet of veal, cut in 8 thin slices, an equal number of slices of bacon, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), 1 pint of brown sauce, 1½ ozs. of butter, salt and pepper, olives.
Method.—The slices of meat and bacon should be about 4 inches long and 3 inches wide. Place a slice of bacon on each piece of meat, spread on a thin layer of forcemeat, roll up tightly, and fasten securely with twine. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the olives, and fry until lightly browned. Pour away the butter, add the brown sauce (hot), cover closely, and simmer gently from 1¾ to 2 hours. When done, remove the strings, arrange the olives in 2 rows on a foundation of mashed potatoes, and strain the sauce over. Or, arrange them in a circle on a border of mashed potatoes, and fill the centre with purée of spinach, or any other suitable vegetables.
Time—To prepare and cook, about 2¼ hours. Average Cost, 3s. 4d. Sufficient, 8 fillets for 6 persons.
​792.—VEAL OLIVES, FRENCH STYLE. (Fr.—Olives de Veau à la Française.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of fillet of veal, a few strips of larding bacon, ½ a lb. of pork sausage meat, 2½ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 pint of good stock, 1 onion, 1 carrot, ½ a small turnip, 2 strips of celery, 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), meat glaze, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped gherkins, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into thin slices about 4 inches long and 3 inches wide, and lard them on one side with strips of bacon, 1¼ inches long and about ⅛ of an inch wide. On the side not larded spread a thin layer of sausage meat, roll up tightly, and fasten securely with twine. Melt 1½ ozs. of butter in a stewpan, and fry the olives until the entire surface is lightly browned. When sufficiently fried, remove them to a plate, put in the peppercorns, cloves, bouquet-garni, the vegetables sliced, fry 10 minutes, then three quarters cover the vegetables with stock, and add the rest as that in the stewpan boils away. Place the olives on the top of the vegetables, cover with a buttered paper, put on the lid, and braise either on the stove or in the oven for nearly 1 hour. When tender, take them out of the stewpan, put them in a hot oven for a few minutes to brown and crisp the bacon, remove the strings, and brush over with glaze. Have ready the roux, or thickening, made by frying the remaining oz. of butter and the flour together until brown, strain the liquor from the stewpan on to it, stir and boil until smooth, season to taste, and simmer for a few minutes. Dish the olives in a straight row on a foundation of mashed potato; add the lemon-juice and gherkins to the sauce, season to taste, and pour the sauce round the dish.
Time.—From 2¼ to 2½ hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
793.—VEAL OLIVES. (Fr.—Olives de Veau.) (Another way.)
Ingredients.—An equal number of thin slices of cold veal and raw bacon, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), 1½ ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 small onion sliced, ½ a small carrot sliced, 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves.
ENTRÉES.
1.—Toulouse Pastry. 2.—Fillets of Beef. 3.—Beef Galantine. 4.—Zéphires of Duck. 5.—Mutton Cutlets in Aspic. 6.—Sauté of Veal. 7.—Chartreuse of Pheasant. 8.—Curried Veal. 9.—Chicken Médaillons. 10.—Veal Stew.
​tightly, wrap a thin slice of bacon round, and tie securely with string. Place the rolls on end in the stewpan, cover with a greased paper, and cook very gently for 1¼ hours. Remove the string, dish in two straight rows, and strain the sauce over.
Time.—1¼ to 1½ hours, after the stock is made. Average Cost, 1s. for a dish of 12, exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
794.—VEAL OLIVE PIE. (Fr.—Pâté de Veau.)
Ingredients.—An equal number of thin slices of cold veal and raw bacon, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), ½ a pint of good gravy, puff paste, or rough puff (see pastes), forcemeat balls, 2 hard-boiled eggs, salt and pepper.
Method.—Boil the bones and trimmings down for gravy. Prepare the rolls as directed in the preceding recipe, place them on end in a pie-dish, intersperse slices of hard-boiled egg and forcemeat balls (previously fried), and half fill the dish with well-seasoned gravy. Cover with paste, bake in a moderately hot oven for nearly 1 hour, and as soon as the pie is baked, pour in the rest of the gravy through the hole in the centre. Serve either hot or cold.
Time.—To prepare and bake, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
795.—VEAL PATTIES. (Fr.—Bouchées de Veau.)
Ingredients.—Puff paste. For the mixture: 8 ozs. of lean cooked veal, 2 ozs. of lean cooked ham, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of rich stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of nutmeg, the grated rind of ½ a lemon, salt and pepper.
Method.—Chop the veal and ham very finely, pound it in the mortar with the salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon-rind, lemon-juice, moisten by degrees with the stock, and when perfectly smooth rub through a fine sieve. Stir in the cream, season to taste, and use. When the paste is ready for the last turn, roll it out to about ⅓ of an inch in thickness, and stamp out 8 or 9 rounds with a hot wet cutter, 2½ inches in diameter. Brush over with beaten egg, then take a cutter 2 or 3 sizes smaller, dip it into boiling water, and make an incision in the centre of each round, to half the depth of the paste. Bake in a hot oven; when done remove the tops, scoop out the soft inside, fill with the mixture, replace the tops, and serve. They may be served either hot or cold; if the former, they should first be put into the oven to become thoroughly hot.
Time.—From 1 to 1¼ hours, after the paste is made. Average Cost, 1s., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 8 or 9 patties.
​796.—VEAL AND HAM PATTIES. (Economical.)
Ingredients.—12 ozs. of cooked veal, 4 ozs. of either cooked or raw ham, about ¼ of a pint of stock or water, the grated rind of 1 lemon, a good pinch of nutmeg, 1 level teaspoonful of salt, 1 level saltspoonful of pepper, puff paste, rough puff (see pastes).
Method.—Cut the meat into small dice, add to it the salt, pepper, herbs, and moisten with the stock or water. Make the paste as directed, roll it out thinly, and stamp out with a cutter a little larger than the patty-pans as many rounds as possible, and put 12 aside to form the covers. Roll out the cuttings, stamp into rounds, place one in each patty-pan, fill with meat, moisten the edges with water, and put on the covers. Press the edges together, notch them at regular intervals, make a hole in the centre of the top, and decorate with leaves. Brush over with egg or milk, and bake for about 20 minutes in a moderately hot oven.
Time.—20 minutes to bake. Average Cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for 12 large patties.
797.—VEAL AND HAM PIE. (Fr.—Pâté de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of lean veal (fillet or cushion part), ¼ of a lb. of cooked ham, 2 or 3 hard-boiled eggs, about ½ a teaspoonful of mixed dried herbs, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little stock or water, seasoning, puff or rough puff paste (see pastes).
Method.—Cut the veal into neat slices, free from skin, also cut the ham into suitable slices. Arrange a layer of veal in a piedish, then a layer of ham, and next a layer of thin slices of hard-boiled egg. Season each layer with a very little salt and pepper, dried herbs and parsley. Continue thus until the dish is quite full. Pour in about 1 gill of stock, or, failing this, water. Cover with paste in the usual manner, decorate the centre tastefully with paste leaves, brush over with egg, and bake in a moderate oven for about 1¼ hours.
Time to make and cook, 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
798.—VEAL AND HAM PIE. (Fr.—Pâté de Veau.)
Ingredients.—3 lb. of neck or breast of veal, ¼ of a lb. of ham or bacon, 2 hard-boiled eggs, forcemeat balls, the grated rind of 1 lemon, a good pinch of ground mace, salt and pepper, puff paste, or rough puff (see pastes).
Method.—Cut the meat into pieces 1½ inches square, put them into a fireproof dish (a jar placed in a saucepan of water may be substituted, season with salt and pepper, cover with cold water, and cook gently either in the oven or on the stove for 2 hours. Meanwhile cut the ham into narrow strips, the eggs into thin slices, make the forcemeat balls, ​and fry them lightly in a little hot dripping. Make the paste as directed, roll it out to a suitable thickness, invert the piedish in the centre of it, and cut round, leaving a margin of about ¾ of an inch. Line the edge of the piedish with the trimmings (paste is always lighter when not re-rolled). The meat must be allowed to cool slightly, but there is no need to allow it to become quite cold, Cover the bottom of the piedish with meat, add a few strips of bacon and slices of egg, sprinkle lightly with salt, pepper, mace and lemon-rind, and intersperse with forcemeat balls. Repeat until the dish is full, piling the meat high in the centre, for which elevation the ¾ of an inch margin of paste is allowed. Half fill the dish with gravy, put on the cover, moisten and press the edges together, make a hole in the centre of the top, decorate with leaves, brush over with egg, and bake from 45 to 60 minutes in a moderately hot oven. As soon as the pie is baked add a little more well-seasoned gravy through the hole in the top, and when served hot, send a little gravy to table in a tureen: the liquor in which the meat was stewed should provide this. When a pie is intended to be eaten cold, spaces should be left between the meat for the gravy to form jelly.
Time.—About 3 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 8d. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons.
799.—VEAL POT PIE. (Fr.—Pâté de Veau et Pommes de terre.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of either raw or cooked veal, ½ a lb. of pickled pork, 1 lb. of potatoes parboiled and thickly sliced, stock made from bones and trimmings (see "Veal au Gratin" No. 778), puff paste, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, and cut the pork into thin small slices. Place the veal and pork in layers in a piedish, seasoning each layer liberally with salt and pepper, and ¾ fill the dish with stock. Cover with an inverted dish, cook in a moderate oven for 1½ hours, and cool slightly. When using cold meat this preliminary cooking is not necessary. Add stock to replace the loss, place the potatoes on the top, and cover with paste. Bake in a moderately hot oven from 40 to 45 minutes, add more hot stock through the hole in the top. and serve (see "Veal and Ham Pie").
Time.—To bake, 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
800.—VEAL PUDDING. (Fr.—Pouding de Veau.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of veal, ½ a lb. of raw ham, bacon, or pickled pork, suet paste, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into rather small neat pieces, and put the ​bones and trimmings aside. Cut the ham, bacon or pork into narrow strips. Line a well-greased basin thinly with paste, put in the meat, interspersing strips of bacon, and seasoning liberally with salt and pepper. Nearly fill the basin with boiling water, put on a thin lid of paste, and cover with a greased paper (see "Beef Steak Pudding"). Place the basin in a steamer, or in a saucepan containing boiling water to half the depth of the basin, and add boiling water as that in the saucepan reduces. Cook for 3 hours, and serve with good gravy made from the bones and trimmings.
Time.—To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
801.—VEAL RAGOÛT. (Fr.—Ragoût de Veau.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of neck, breast, or knuckle of veal, 1½ ozs. of dripping, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 onion cut into dice, 1 carrot cut into dice, ½ a small turnip cut into dice, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving. Heat the fat in a stewpan, fry the meat until lightly-browned, then drain off the fat. Cover the meat with hot water, add the vegetable trimmings, and keep the carrot, turnip and onion dice in water until required. Season with salt and pepper, cover with a close-fitting lid, and cook as slowly as possible for 2 hours, taking care to keep the water just at simmering point. Meanwhile heat the butter in another stewpan, add the flour, and stir and cook slowly until it acquires a pale-brown colour. When the meat is done, strain the liquor, add stock or water to make up ¾ of a pint, and mix with the blended butter and flour. Stir until boiling, season to taste, add the meat, and simmer gently for ½ an hour. Serve garnished with the vegetable dice, which should be boiled separately.
Time.—About 2¾ hours. Average Cost, 1s. 8d. to 2s. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
802.—VEAL ROLLS WITH MIXED VEGETABLES. (Fr.—Paupiettes de Veau à la Jardinière.)
Ingredients.—An equal number of thin slices of cooked veal and raw bacon, sausage meat, stock, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1½ ozs. of flour, 1 carrot, ½ a turnip, 20 very small button onions, 2 tablespoonfuls of peas, 6 peppercorns, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into slices 3½ inches long and 2½ inches wide, and put them aside. Turn the carrot and turnip with a pea-shaped cutter, or cut them into small dice. Put the bones and trimmings of the meat into a stewpan, add the peppercorns and trimmings of carrot and turnip, cover with cold water, boil gently for at least 2 hours, then strain and season to taste. Melt the butter in a stewpan, ​add the flour, stir and cook slowly until brown, then add the stock, stir until boiling, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Spread a little sausage meat on each slice of veal, roll up lightly, enclose in thin slices of bacon, and tie securely with string. Place the rolls on end in the stewpan, cover with a greased paper, put on a close-fitting lid, and cook gently for 1 hour, basting occasionally with the sauce. Remove the string, dish in two straight rows, strain the sauce round and garnish with groups of mixed vegetables, previously cooked seperately until tender.
Time.—Altogether 3½ hours. Average Cost, one dish, about 1s. 6d. Sufficient—Allow 2 rolls to each person. Seasonable at any time.
803.—VEAL ROLLS. (See Veal Olives.)
804.—VEAL SAUSAGES. (Fr.—Saucissons de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of lean veal, 1 lb. of fat bacon, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped fresh sage, salt and pepper, sausage skins, frying-fat.
Method.—Chop both veal and bacon finely, add the sage and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper. Press lightly into the skins, prick and fry in hot fat until nicely-browned. If preferred, form into round cakes, coat with seasoned flour or eggs and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat.
Time.—To fry, 10 minutes. Average Cost, about 1s. 6d. for this quantity.
805.—VEAU SAUTÉ À LA MARENGO. (Fr.—Filets de Veau à la Marengo.)
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of fillet or cushion of veal, ¼ of a pint of salad, oil, ¼ of a pint of tomato sauce, ¼ of a pint of brown sauce (see Sauces), 1 glass of sherry, 1 truffle, 8 preserved mushrooms, 1 shallot finely-chopped, poached eggs, fleurons (or little half-moon shapes) of baked puff-paste, salt and pepper.
Method,—Cut the meat into pieces about 2¼ inches square. Make the oil hot in a stewpan, fry the pieces of meat quickly until lightly browned, and remove them as soon as they are fried. Put in the shallot, and fry slightly, then drain the oil into a smaller stewpan. Cut the mushrooms and truffle into slices, add them to the shallots in the stewpan, put in the 2 sauces, the wine and meat, season to taste, cover closely, and cook gently in the oven or on the stove for about 40 minutes. Fry the eggs in the oil and make them as plump as possible. The fluerons of puff-paste should be stamped out in the form of a crescent, brushed over with egg, and baked in a hot ​oven. Dish the meat in a pyramidal form, strain the sauce over, garnish with the sliced truffle, mushrooms, poached eggs, and fleurons of puff-paste, and serve hot.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. 9d. to 4s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
806.—VEAL SOUFFLE. (Fr.—Soufflé de Veau.)
Ingredients.—1 lb. of lean uncooked veal, ¼ of a pint of white sauce, ¼ of a pint of double cream, 2 ozs. of butter, 3 eggs, 1 small truffle, a pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, ½ a pint of Béchamel or Suprême sauce.
Method.—Pass the meat 2 or 3 times through the mincing machine, then pound it in a mortar, adding gradually the butter, white sauce (cold), and 3 yolks and 1 white of egg, one at a time. Season to taste, add a little nutmeg, and when the mixture is perfectly smooth rub it through a fine wire sieve. Whip the cream slightly, whisk the remaining 2 whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and mix lightly with the veal purée. Have ready a well-buttered plain mould, decorated or not, according to taste, with sliced or chopped truffles, put in the mixture, cover with a buttered paper, and steam gently for about 1 hour. Serve with the Béchamel or Suprême sauce round.
Time.—To prepare and cook, from 1¾ to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s., exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
807.—VEAL, SMALL SOUFFLES OF. (Fr.—Petits Soufflés de Veau à la Minute.)
Ingredients.—¼ of a lb. of lean uncooked veal, 3 eggs, ¼ of a pint of cream, 1 truffle, salt and pepper, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of white sauce (see Sauces).
Method.—Butter some small china soufflé cases. Pass the meat 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, then pound it in a mortar until smooth, adding the yolks of the eggs one at a time, and the cream gradually. Season to taste, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Whip the whites of the eggs stiffly, and stir them lightly into the meat purée. Put a teaspoonful of the white sauce into each soufflé case, and ¾ fill with the meat preparation. Sprinkle on the top a little finely-chopped truffle, place the cases in a baking tin, cover with a buttered paper, and bake for 15 minutes in a moderately hot oven. Serve in the cases.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or 10 cases.
808.—VEAL STEW (White). (Fr.—Blanquette de Veau.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of fillet, neck, loin or breast, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. ​of flour, 12 preserved mushrooms, 2 sliced onions, a bouquet-garni, (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves, 2 yolks of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into pieces about 2 inches square, put them into a stewpan with the onions, bouquet-garni and peppercorns, cover with cold water, add a little salt and the lemon-juice, bring to the boil, skim well, cover, and cook gently for 2 hours. Meanwhile cut the mushrooms into slices, and warm them in a little of their own liquor. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook for 10 minutes without browning. Remove the meat from the stewpan, strain 1 pint of the liquor on to the flour and butter, stir until it boils, add the mushrooms, season to taste, simmer for 10 minutes, then cool slightly. Beat the yolks of eggs and cream together, add them to the sauce, and stir by the side of the fire 2 or 3 minutes. Put in the meat, allow it to become thoroughly hot, without boiling, then season to taste, and serve.
Time.—About 2¼ hours. Average Cost, 3s 3d. to 3s. 6d. with fillet. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
809.—VEAL, STEWED. (Fr.—Ragoût de Veau.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of the neck or breast of veal, 1 pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of cornflour or flour, 1 small onion, blade of mace, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, place them in a fireproof stewing pot, season with salt and pepper, add the onion and mace, pour in the milk, cover closely, and cook gently in the oven or on the stove for 2½ or 3 hours. A few minutes before serving, knead the butter and flour or cornflour smoothly together, divide into very small portions, and stir them into the milk. When flour is used, it must be allowed to cook for at least 10 minutes. Put the meat on to a hot dish, add the cream to the sauce, season to taste, strain over the meat. The sauce is never perfectly white, therefore it is better to add 1 or 2 drops of caramel to make it a pale fawn colour.
Time.—From 2½ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
810.—VEAL, STEWED. (Fr.—Ragoût de Veau.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of loin or neck of veal, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, ½ a pint of shelled peas, ¼ of a pint each of turnip and carrot (scooped out into pea shaped pieces or cut into dice), 1½ ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of tomato sauce, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 blade of mace, a bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), pepper and salt.
Method.—Divide the meat into cutlets, and trim them neatly. Melt ​the butter in a stewpan, and fry the cutlets lightly on both sides. Add the bacon in slices, a few trimmings of turnip and carrot, the meat trimmings, mace, bouquet-garni, salt and pepper, and as much boiling stock or water as will over the whole. Stew gently for about 2½ hours, keeping the stewpan closely covered. Cook the vegetables separately, and drain them well. When done, remove the meat from the stewpan, strain the gravy, return it to the stewpan, add the bacon cut into dice tomato sauce, lemon-juice, prepared vegetables, and the meat. Season to taste, re-heat, and serve.
Time.—From 2½ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Cow-Pox, or Variola, the vaccine disease which appears on the teats of cows, accompanied with inflammation. The vesicles of a blue or livid hue contain a colourless, somewhat viscid, fluid, composed principally of bioplasm, which by the medium of vaccination communicates cow-pox to the human subject, and acts as a preventive against the more virulent forms of small pox. The practice of vaccination owes its origin to Dr. Jenner, a native of Berkeley, Gloucestershire, where he was born in 1749. After studying under the celebrated anatomist, John Hunter, Dr. Jenner settled in his native town. Observing that cows were subject to a certain infectious eruption of the teats, and that the persons who were engaged in milking such cattle escaped small-pox, or had it in a less virulent form, he made inquiries into the subject, the result being the introduction of vaccination into England in 1796.
The Cattle Plague, or Rinderpest.—This terrible disease is of highly contagious and malignant type, attacking animals of the ox tribe, and usually proves fatal. The symptoms are characterized by great depression of the vital powers, frequent shivering, staggering gait, cold extremities, quick and short breathing, drooping head and reddened eyes, high temperature, the discharge of a foetid secretion from the mouth, nose, and eyes, and failure of the heart's action. The attack is generally of seven days' duration. The cattle plague originated in the Asiatic steppes—hence the name by which it is sometimes called, steppe-murrain—where millions of cattle are bred and pastured on the rich pasturage of the plains. Various remedies have been tried for curing the disease, but the only effectual method is "stamping out" the plague, by slaughtering the infected cattle, and prohibiting by an Order in Council the importation of animals from infected districts. It is probable that the disease known in the Middle Ages as "murrain," was identical with the rinderpest. It made its appearance in England in 1865, when nearly 300,000 cattle either died of the plague, or were slaughtered to prevent contagion.
811.—VEAL TENDONS, PALESTINE STYLE. (Fr.—Tendrons de Veau à la Palestine.)
Ingredients.—The thick end of a breast of veal, 1 quart of stock, 1 glass of sherry, 1 onion, 1 small carrot, ½ a small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves, ½ a pint of Espagnole sauce (see Sauces). For the garnish: 6 small artichoke bottoms, ½ a lb. of Jerusalem artichokes, ½ a pint of milk, ½ an oz. of butter, the yolk of 1 egg, a few white breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful of white sauce, salt and pepper.
MEAT ENTRÉES.
1. Grenadins of Veal. 2. Rabbit Cutlets. 3. Rabbit Larded and Braised.
ENTRÉES.
1. Cold Chicken and Veal Timbales. 2. Soufflés of Duck, with Cherry and Spinach. 3. Moulded Sweetbread, with Asparagus.
​drain, and rub through a fine sieve. Put the artichoke purée into a stewpan with the butter, white sauce and yolk of egg, season to taste, and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens. Warm the artichoke bottoms, fill them with the artichoke purée, shaping the mixture in the form of a dome, or pyramid, cover lightly with the breadcrumbs, add a few small pieces of butter, and bake in a hot oven for 10 minutes. When the stock has boiled down to a very small quantity, add to it the brown sauce, boil, and reduce until the artichokes are ready for the oven, then put in the tendons to re-heat. When ready, dish in a circle, garnish the centre with the artichokes, pour the sauce round, and serve.
Note.—Spinach, green peas, or any other suitable vegetable may be served instead of artichokes.
Time.—5 to 5½ hours. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. to 6s. 6d., exclusive of veal. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
812.—VEAL TENDONS. (Fr.—Tendrons de Veau.)
The tendons of veal are the cartilaginous or gristly portions found at the extremity of the bones towards the thick end of a breast of veal. They may, of course, be dressed with the joint, except when it is roasted or baked. The tendons must first be rendered perfectly tender by long and gentle stewing, and afterwards may be dressed in a variety of ways. They cannot be bought separately, but as they are confined principally to the thicker half of the breast, that part alone should be procured. The meat from which they are removed may be used for many purposes (see Nos. 798, 799, 800, 801 and 809).
813.—VEAL TENDONS WITH VEGETABLES. (Fr.—Tendrons de Veau à la Jardinière.)
Ingredients.—The thick half of a breast of veal, thin rashers of bacon ½ pint of white stock, ½ an oz. of meat glaze, 1 carrot, 1 onion, ½ a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 strips of celery, 6 peppercorns, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 1 oz. of butter, salt. For the garnish: peas, beans, cauliflower, carrot, turnip, etc., ¼ pint of white sauce. 1 tablespoonful of cream, salt and pepper.
Method.—Cut the tendon into pieces about 2 inches square, and wrap each piece in a thin slice of bacon. Cut the vegetables into thick slices, put them into a shallow stewpan or sautépan with the stock, butter, herbs, cloves, peppercorns and mace, lay on the pieces of meat, cover closely, and cook very gently for 2 or 3 hours. Remove the tendons, strain the liquor into a small stewpan, skim well, add the meat-glaze, put in the tendons, and allow them to become thoroughly hot, and well coated with the sauce. Have ready a macédoine of vegetables, which may consist of any or all of those enumurated above, with the addition of any ​other preferred. The cauliflower should be separated into small sprays, the beans cut into short lengths, the turnip and carrot either scooped out with a round cutter or cut into dice; all must be separately boiled and tender, but not broken. Add the cream to the white sauce, and when thoroughly hot, put in the macédoine of vegetables to reheat. Dish the tendons on a border of mashed potatoes, pour the sauce over them, and serve the jardinière garnish in the centre.
Time.—From 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for a dish for 7 or 8 persons.
814.—VEAL TENDONS, FRIED. (Fr.—Tendrons de Veau Panées.)
Ingredients.—The thick end of a breast of veal, 1½ pints of stock 1 onion sliced, 1 carrot sliced, ½ a turnip cut into small pieces, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt and pepper, tomato or Espagnole sauce.
Method.—Remove the meat from the tendons, and divide them into pieces about 2 inches square. Put them into a stewpan with the vegetables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, stock and salt, and cook very gently for 4 hours. Remove them very carefully from the stewpan. press between two dishes until cold, then trim them if necessary, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned.
Time.—About 5 hours. Average Cost, 1s. 8d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
815.—VEAL TENDONS FRIED IN BATTER. (Fr.—Tendrons de Veau à l'Horly.)
Ingredients.—The thick end of a breast of veal. For the marinade 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper. For the batter: 2 ozs. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of salad oil, ½ a gill of tepid water, the white of 1 egg, salt, frying-fat.
Method.—Prepare and cook the tendons as directed in the preceding recipe; when cold, divide the squares into narrow strips, place them in a deep dish, pour over the marinade, and allow them to soak for at least 1 hour. Drain well, dip each piece in the batter, and fry in hot fat until lightly browned. Pile on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. The batter should be allowed to stand for some time before being used. The flour, salt, salad oil and water should be mixed smoothly together, and the stiffly-whipped white of egg added just before using.
Time.—4 to 5 hours. Average Cost, from 2a. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
​816.—VEAL WITH PARSLEY SAUCE. (Fr.—Veau à la Poulette.)
Ingredients.—2 lb. of fillet of veal, ¾ of a pint of white sauce, No. 222, 1 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 yolk of egg, salt and pepper.
Method.—If the meat is not one compact piece, bind it into a good shape with tape. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the meat gently until the entire surface is lightly browned, then add the white sauce and seasoning to taste. Cover closely, simmer gently from 2 to 2½ hours, then take up the meat and keep it hot. Strain and return the sauce to the stewpan, add the parsley, lemon-juice, and yolk of egg, stir until the sauce thickens, then pour it over the veal, and serve.
Time.—From 2½ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.