# The Selkirk Mountains

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The longest-living author of this work died in 1945, so this work is in the public domain in countries and areas where the copyright term is the author's life plus 78 years or less. This work may be in the public domain in countries and areas with longer native copyright terms that apply the rule of the shorter term to foreign works.
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* THE
* Selkirk Mountains
* A Guide for Mountain Climbers and Pilgrims
* Information by
* A. O. WHEELER, F.R.G.S., A.C.C., A.C., A.A.C.
* Stovel Company, Engravers, Lithographers and Printers, Winnipeg, Man.
Arthur O. Wheeler, First President of Alpine Club
CONTENTS
* Foreword— A. O. Wheeler ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................Page 1
* One Word More—Elizabeth Parker................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................2
* The Snowy Selkirks—Elizabeth Parker................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................3-5
* CHAPTER I.
* The Rocky Mountain System—The Selkirks—Early Explorers—Later History—The Railway—Discovery of Rogers Pass—An Alpine Club—Members of British Association Visit the Selkirks, (1884)—Result of Completion of Railway—Government Surveys (1886)—First Scientific Observations of Illecillewaet Glacier—Topographical Survey by William Spotswood Green—The Alpine Club, England, and the Swiss Alpine Club—The Appalachian Mountain Club—Triangulation of Railway Belt—Subsequent Mountaineering................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................Pages 6-32
* CHAPTER II.
* Peaks, Passes and Valleys Reached from Glacier—Glacier Park—Swiss Guides—Glacier House—Outfits and Ponies — Places and Peaks of Interest Alphabetically Arranged33-104
* CHAPTER III.
* The Caves of Cheops (Nakimu Caves)—the Valley of the Caves—The Approach to the Caves — Formation and Structure—Description of Caves—The Mill Bridge Series—The Gorge Series—The Judgment Hall................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................106-117
* CHAPTER IV.
* Golden and the Country of the Upper Columbia —Along the Columbia River between Golden and Beavermouth are Several Points of Interest—the Upper Columbia—Travel by Waterway on the Upper Columbia................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................119-135
* CHAPTER V.
* "The Dogtooth Mountains—Spillimacheen Mountains—Some unknown trails between Golden and Glacier................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................136-141
* CHAPTER VI.
* Revelstoke—the Arrow Lakes................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................142-149
* CHAPTER VII.
* Glaciers of the Selkirks—A Note on the Geology of the Selkirk Mountains—The Snow-Sheds of the Selkirks................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................150-155
* CHAPTER VIII.
* The Alpine Club of Canada................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................156-164
* CHAPTER IX.
* Vegetation in the Selkirks—Conspicuous Plants in the Selkirks—Beasts, Birds and Fish................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................166-177
* CHAPTER X.
* Clothing and Equipment—Rules for the Rope................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................178-180
* APPENDIX.
* a. Glossary of Mountaineering Terms................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................182-186
* b. Extracts from Game Laws (B. C.)................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................186-187
* c. Park Regulations................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................187-189
* d. Bibliography................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................190-191
* e. Index................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................192-198
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
| 1. | Arthur O. Wheeler, First Pres. of Alpine Club | (Frontispiece) |
| 2. | Mr. Walter Moberly, C. E | 17 |
| 3. | Topographical Surveyors taking their instruments up a mountain | 18 |
| 4. | Edward Feuz of Interlaken | 26 |
| 5. | Fritz | 32 |
| 6. | Showing Loop from Mt. Cougar, Sir Donald and Mt. Avalanche on left (A. O. Wheeler) | 34 |
| 7. | Glacier House (I. N. Austin) | 34 |
| 8. | Panorama looking south from summit of Mt. Dawson, (A. O. Wheeler) | 58 |
| 9. | Selkirks above the clouds from Bald Mt. (A. O. Wheeler) | 45 |
| 10. | Mt. Sir Donald from Bald Mt. an unfamiliar side of Sir Donald | 45 |
| 11. | Panorama from Mt. Abbott (H. Chapman) | 30 |
| 12. | The Raceway and Flume. Caves of Cheops | 57 |
| 13. | View down Cougar Lower Valley, (M. P. Bridgland) | 57 |
| 14. | Miss Canada (C. P. R. Co.) | 63 |
| 15. | Mt. Lookout and Illecillewaet Icefall | 70 |
| 16. | Cougar Valley showing Sir Donald (A. O. Wheeler) | 70 |
| 17. | F. W. Freeborn on Snowcap | 75 |
| 18. | A well-known climber; V. A. Fynn, ready to climb | 75 |
| 19. | On the Asulkan Trail (G and W. S. Vaux Jr.) | 81 |
| 20. | Mt. Cheops and Napoleon (A. O. Wheeler) | 81 |
| 21. | Mt. Purity from Donkin Pass (A. O. Wheeler) | 84 |
| 22. | Battle Glaciers (E. W. D. Holway) | 84 |
| 23. | Swiss guides in A. C. C. camp (Byron Harmon) | 88 |
| 24. | A. C. C. at work Rogers Pass Camp | 88 |
| 25. | Miss Canada and Swiss Guide Crossing Couloir of Sir Donald (F. W. Freeborn) | 93 |
| 26. | Falls, Asulkan Valley (J. N. Austin) | 93 |
| 27. | E. O. Wheeler, R. E | 100 |
| 28. | A. C. C. Cooks in camp | 105 |
| 29. | After a week's climbing, nailed boots (P. D. McTavish) | 105 |
| 30. | Marble markings. Interior of Caves of Cheops (A. O. Wheeler) | 110 |
| 31. | Goat Falls disappearing into Caves. (H. G. Whetler) | 110 |
| 32. | Where Cougar brook first disappears below surface. (M. P. Bridgland) | 114 |
| 33. | Upper Cougar Valley (A. O. Wheeler) | 114 ​ |
| 34. | Exit T. Cougar Brook from Mill Bridge, (M. P. Bridgland). | 118. |
| 35 | Looking down Cougai Brook from Pt. Lockout, (A. O. Wheeler) | 118 |
| 36 | Evening on the Upper Columbia River (M. C. Hickson) | 120 |
| 37 | Smoking Room, Club Hou.se (B. Harmon) | 122 |
| 38 | A glacier of the Windermere country showing medial moraine (E. W. Harnden) | 131 |
| 39 | View of Toby Glacier and Toby Mt. from Earl Grey Pass (E. W. Harnden) | 131 |
| 40 | Mt. Hammond (E. W. Harnden) | 134 |
| 41 | On Canyon Creek Trail | 141 |
| 42 | An annual meeting A. C. C. (F. W. Freeborn) | 141 |
| 43 | The Club House, Banff (B. Harmon) | 143 |
| 44 | Illecillewaet Canyon (R. R. Copeland) | 143 |
| 45 | Goat's Btard (Spirala Aruncus) Mrs. J. W. Henshaw | 148 |
| 46 | Illecillewaet Glacier. Black line on the rock shows where the ice rested in 1887 (I. N. Austin) | 152 |
| 47 | Tongue of the IlleciUewaet Glacier (Geo. Vaux Jr.) | 152 |
| 48 | A. C. C. around the camp fire (Byror Harmon) | 158 |
| 49 | Five o'clock in the morning Climbing orders | 101 |
| 50 | A. C. C. guide and Miss Canada (D. Warner) | 161 |
| 51 | A corner of the Club House giving glimpse of the Bow Valley and mountains beyond (B. Harmon) | 165 |
| 52 | Prof. John Macoun, F. L. S. F. R. S. C | 169 |
| 53 | Yellow Adder's Tongue (Erylhronium gigantium) (Mrs. J. W. Henshaw) | 171 |
| 54 | White-floweied Rhododendron (Mrs. J. W . Henshaw) | 171 |
| 55 | Black Bear | 175 |
| 56 | The Hoary Marmot or Whistler. A baby captured in camp (M. P. Bridgland) | 175 |
| 57 | An Interior. The Assembly Room (B. Harmon) | 177 |
| 58 | A denizen of Cougar Valley (F. Simpson) | 179 |
| 59 | One of the best known Selkirk Animals (Byron Harmon) | 179 |
| | Maps | |
| 1 | Caves of Cheops (A. O. Wheeler) | 112 |
| 2 | C.P.R. Profile map | 144 |
| 3 | Map of Illecillewaet Glacier (W. S. Vaux) | 150 |
| 4 | Portion of Upper Columbia (C. D. Ellis) | 128 |
| 5 | Selkirk Range (A. O. Wheeler) | at end of book |
| 6 | Dogtooth Range | 138 |