# Route across the Rocky Mountains with a Description of Oregon and California (1982)/Chapter 7

CHAPTER SEVEN
RETURN TO THE STATES.
JOURNEY FROM OREGON CITY TO THE WESTERN PART OF THE STATE OF MISSOURI, WITH SOME OF ITS INCIDENTS.
On the 19th day of April, 1845, we left Oregon City, for the United States. Our company, consisting of twelve persons, proceeded, a part by land, with the animals, and a part by water, with the baggage and provisions. And as the Cascade Mountains were yet impassable, on account of the snow, it was necessary for those who went by land, to follow the Columbia River: to do this, they were compelled to cross over to the North side at Vancouver, and a part of them re-crossed above the Falls of the Columbia. They had only a dim Indian trail to follow, which frequently wound along between rocky precipices and the river; it was sometimes covered with water, and a great portion of it was over loose fragments of rock, and along the sides of very steep hills and mountains. The streams which empty into the Columbia, were full, and all conspired to make the way through the Cascade Mountains, by land, very difficult. The passage by water was, likewise, somewhat impeded by high winds, strong currents, and the portage around the Falls. We arrived at the Wascopin Mission on the 1st of May, where we left our canoes, and packed the baggage upon our horses. We remained here one day, during which time Mr. Brewer and his lady, who are connected with the Mission, did every thing in their power to asist us, and make our stay agreeable. From the Mission, we followed the South bank of the Columbia to Fort Walawala.
​We found the De Chutes and John Day's Rivers too deep to ford, and were compelled to employ the Indians to take us across them, in their canoes. When we came to John Day's River, it was late, and we encamped. We had been previously informed by the Indians, in case we should find no person here, that if we would go down to the bank of the Columbia and fire a gun, those who were on the opposite side, would come over and assist us. Finding no one where the trail crossed the river, in the morning, one of our party mounted his horse, and rode down to the Columbia; intending, if he found no one there, to make the signal which we had been instructed to give. But finding Indians on the same side we were on, he attempted to make a bargain with them. They pretended at first, not to understand the language which he spoke, (Chenook,) but gave him to understand that they had no canoes. After spending some minutes, endeavoring to pursuade them to do something for us, an old man walked up to him, grasped his horse firmly by the bridle, and made signs to him to dismount; at the same time, a squaw came out of the lodge with a large knife, and stood before him. He kicked at the Indian, and tried to rein his horse away, but was unable to release himself. He then drew a pistol from his belt, cocked it, and threw the muzzle against the Indians breast; at which, letting go his hold on the horse, and extending his arms, he sprang back, with an exclamation of terror, to the door of the hut, and protested that he meant no harm and was only sporting. He saw no arms, and intended first to rob the man of his horse; and having succeeded in that, to strip him, probably, of every thing he had. He did not know that the buckskin coat concealed a pistol, or that there were friends at hand. In a short time, the rest of us having packed up, followed down to where the Indians were; they soon found their canoes, set us over the stream on our own terms, and became exceedingly friendly and accommodating.
They are always very pleasant and harmless in the presence of a superior force, with this unvarying exception; they will always steal any thing and every thing they can lay their hands on, when they think there is a possibility of concealing, or carrying it away, without being detected. But where they have the power, their disposition immediately changes; they are then frowning and insolent; and not satisfied with pilfering, they frequently commit open robberies. Many instances of this have occurred with small companies of emigrants, on their way down the Columbia; who, having imprudently separated themselves from the larger companies, and ​probably parted with their arms, have, some of them, been plundered; some of them stripped of a good part of their clothing, some have been whipped, and others, have been otherwise insulted, and abused. We heard of an instance, where two men, who were descending the Columbia River in a canoe, landed, for some purpose, at an Indian village; and while on shore, an Indian came up to one of the men, with a dead snake in his hands, which he was pleased to draw several times across the white man's face. There are those who would not have borne such an insult tamely, but it would have been dangerous to have resented. They have frequently amused themselves, by brandishing their arms in people's faces, or presenting them with their drawn bows. They have never yet taken the life of an emigrant; but, unless they are soon checked, their insolence will grow to something of a more serious nature.
Having arrived at Fort Walawala, we learned that an Indian priest, Father Soderena, then at the Calespel Mission, was exceedingly anxious to return to the United States; and as we were weak, and glad to receive any addition to our numbers, we consented to wait until a messenger, who was instantly dispatched from the Fort, could inform him of our presence, and that we were on our return to the United States. There being but little grass near the Fort, and several of the party wishing to trade horses with the Indians, we moved a few miles beyond Dr. Whitman's Mission, (twenty-five miles from the Fort,) and encamped. Intending to turn our stay to the best advantage, by resting and recruiting our animals, we were careful to select an encampment, where there was excellent pasturage, and good water, in immediate connection.
While we were encamped in the neighborhood of the Mission, a party of twenty or thirty Chiefs and braves, a deputation from the Walawala, Nex Pierce, and Kious Indians, came, and met in council with Dr. Whitman, Mr. Spaulding, and other gentlemen connected with the Mission. They told the Missionaries that the hearts of some of their people were bad; and the object of the council proved to be a trial, to ascertain whether Dr. Whitman was not worthy of death. The charges brought against the Doctor were these: Yellow Serpent, a Chief of the Walawalas, together with his son, and a number of his people, went into California in the Autumn previous, to the time of this council, taking with them a band of horses, which they intended to trade for cattle during the Winter, and return in the Spring. While they were in California, a difficulty arose ​between Elijah—which was the name of the Yellow Serpent's son—and an American, concerning a mule which Elijah said he had caught among the wild horses. The American claimed the mule, and a quarrel ensued. Afterwards, while they were disputing about the matter, Elijah went away, and got his gun, for the purpose, as his people said, of shooting a hawk. The American supposed, or at least he said that he was sure the gun was intended for him; and taking the hint, withdrew immediately. This happened in the camp of the Walawalas.
On the following day, Elijah came to Captain Sutter's Fort, where the American was; who, as soon as he saw the Indian enter, determined upon an immediate and more than savage revenge. Taking his gun, he entered the room where the Indian was sitting, presented the muzzle to his breast, and told him to prepare to die. No explanation or defence was permitted. It was said, that the Indian, who professed Christianity, kneeled to pray; and that, while engaged in that act of final preparation for another world, he was shot dead by the American. He was killed in the presence of his father, who, flying from the Fort, collected his people instantly, and hastened out of the country. They left a great portion of their property, which they feared to take time to collect; and although it was in the Winter, they rushed on, over mountains and snows, and through the files and ambuscades of other hostile tribes, and came, after suffering great loss of property, into their own country. This affair was frowned upon by almost the whole white population of Oregon. There were few persons in the country, unfriendly to the Indian who had been killed. And a letter was dispatched by the authorities, to the friends of the desceased, and Chiefs of his tribe, offering their services, whenever a favorable opportunity would present, to regain their property, and bring the offender to justice. The son of the Yellow Serpent, had been taught at the Mission, by Dr. Whitman, and had always been on terms of most intimate friendship with him. But because his son had been killed by an American in California, the Walawala Chief demanded the life of Dr. Whitman. He argued that it would be no more than just and equal, since his son was a preacher, to take the life of a preacher for satisfaction. This equivalent they all considered, must be given, in order to make the hearts of their people good.
In addition to this, they accused him of another crime; which was, that two Snake Diggers–Indians, living on the lower part of Snake River, ​East of the Blue Mountains—had lately been killed by Americans. This was made an important item in the charge, although they were not on very friendly terms with the Snake Indians. The circumstances of this affair, were thus: Two Americans, who had remained at one of the trading posts, in the mountains, through the Winter, were coming down to the settlements on Willammette. While traveling up the Brule River, their horses were taken, in the night, from their encampment; and in the morning, they found themselves on foot, far away from any Fort, Mission, or settlement: surrounded by mountains, in the midst of an unfeeling people, and without the means of carrying their baggage and provisions. In this situation, they determined to follow the Indians, and regain, if possible, the horses that had been stolen. Arming themselves with all the weapons they had; they proceeded on the track of the horses. They passed by, where one had been killed, and after several hours of rapid pursuit, came up with the thieves. They found them, with the flesh of the horse they had killed, packed upon the other. They attempted flight, but the horse was so loaded that it could not run; and rather than surrender their stolen property, they presented their guns, and offered battle. Sadly to their discomfiture, their fuses refused to be discharged; but the rifles of the Americans, were sure and deadly: both of the Indians remaining with the horse, fell when they reported, yelled, and died. The Americans returned to their encampment, with the horse, placed upon him their baggage and provisions, and proceeded for Dr. Whitman's where they at length arrived in safety.
They were allowed to lodge in one of the Mission houses, and to eat at the Doctor's table. This the council also regarded as a crime. But their object, however, was not to punish; it was rather to have an equivalent. They only wished that the Americans should suffer a loss, as great as their own. Dr. Whitman reasoned with them, and appealed to them, by every means, which he thought would tend, in the least, to affect them in his favor; and so did all the others; but it was in vain. After a long consultation, by which they appeared to be not the least shaken in their opinions, they went away, saying that they could not help, what their young men might do. After the council was ended, several of our party, who were present, expressed their opinions to the gentlemen of the Mission; saying, that they considered it, both imprudent, and wrong in them, to hazard their own lives, and the lives of their families, by ​remaining longer among these people. Dr. Whitman, who is naturally a man of excellent judgment, and especially so with regard to matters relating to the Indians, and who is, moreover, not to be frightened where there is no cause to fear, replied, that he also believed, that prudence, and their safety, required that they should abandon the Mission, for a time, at least. The same opinion was expressed, by all the other gentlemen.
Whether there were other causes to excite the Indians to this step, besides those which they made known, is uncertain. We would hope, that men professing to love good feeling and good actions; claiming to be engaged in the same great cause of Christianizing, and civilizing an ignorant, and barbarous people, would not, merely because they belonged to different sects, or denominations, aim at each other's success, by such vile, uncharitable means. This, and the Catholic Mission on the upper Columbia, are on very unfriendly terms. We would not give it as our opinion, that these unfriendly feelings have been carried to such an extreme; but, there are thousands of instances, in which those professing to be Christians, have acted towards each other, even as unchristianly.
A good body of soldiers, garisoned in the Walawala Valley, would not only be of great benefit in protecting the emigrants, and whoever else might wish to pass through that country, but also to the Indians themselves. For such a garison would keep them in awe, and thereby prevent them from committing depradations, for which they would afterwards have to be punished. They would, at the same time, protect the rights of the Indians, prevent feuds from arising between them and the white people, and establish a peace, and friendship, which would likely be lasting, and beneficial to both; favorable to the civilization of the Indians, and to the promulgation, and extension of Christian principles, among them.
Shortly after this occurred, we removed to a small farm, belonging to Mr. McKenley, the Principal at Fort Walawala; situated on the Hudson's Bay Company's trail to Fort Hall. While we awaited here, the arrival of the Priest, who would come in company with Capt. Grant, (then going up to Fort Hall, with a party, and a large supply of goods and flour,) the Chief of the Walawalas, one evening, came to our camp, with about a dozen men. Without saying a word, or noticing us when we spoke to him, he rode between our fires, where we were cooking, and our baggage; which were only a few feet apart. We told him to go away; that he was throwing the ​dust in our victuals; but he seemed not to hear. He then reined his horse short around one of the fires, and came near riding over the vessels in which one of the men was preparing supper. He was told repeatedly to go away, but was still silent, and heedless. The person who was cooking at the fire, then took hold of the horse, and endeavored to lead it away; but the Indian pulled away from him, and would not allow the horse to move. He at last took up a stick, struck the horse, and drove it out. At this, the Chief became greatly enraged; talked loudly, and threateningly: he would hear nothing; and at length went away in the same mood. Some of the party were a little uneasy; but the night passed, and we thought but little more of it.
We learned that Capt. Grant was near, and sent a messenger, to tell the Priest, that we would move the next day, and to request him to join us as soon as possible. The messenger returned, and informed us, that he had agreed that we should encamp the next night, at a certain place, with Capt. Grant; where the Priest would complete his arrangements, and be ready to proceed with us. We accordingly packed up and started, with the intention of going to the place agreed on. We, however, missed our road, and after having gone eight or ten miles, halted to take dinner.
We had just arranged our baggage, &c., and had our animals grazing near, when we noticed a cloud of dust, away in the direction from which we came. In a few minutes we perceived that it was approaching us; and in a very short time more, we saw that it was nearing very rapidly: and then heard shouting. We were convinced that it was the Yellow Serpent, coming to revenge the insult, which he had forced from us; and no doubt, for the purpose of having an excuse, for making this attack. We hastened to construct a frail breastwork of our packs; the only materials we had, out of which we could form something to shield us from the balls and arrows of the rapidly approaching foe. But we had not finished our work, before Capt. Grant, who had seen the Indians coming, and guessed their object, in company with the Priest, and Mr. Ramo, a Frenchman, and overseer of the camp, came up to us at full speed, from nearly the same direction, and a few hundred yards ahead of the Indians. Mr. Grant, we knew, had spent a great portion of his life among these people, had a powerful influence over them, and was perfectly acquainted with their character and manners. He advised us to lay aside our arms, assume a careless demeanor, and trust the event to him; assuring us, at the same time, that he was ​confident he could make peace, without any loss of life or property; both of which were nearly equal importance to us, in the situation we then were. There was no time for words, and we yielded to his judgment, superior in such affairs to ours, and followed his advice. The Indians, about sixty in number, came yelling, and beating loudly on a kind of a drum. When within three hundred yards, they separated; the Chief, with one part, charged up, on the same side of the little stream on which we were encamped, yelling and flourishing their arms, and firing in the air; while the others, on the opposite side, with the same kind of music, swept away our animals. The Chief, with his party, reined up against our packs, and formed in a circle around us; except a few, who continued to fly back and forward, within eight or ten yards of us, yelling, firing and flourishing their arms. At this instant a hot headed Southerner, seizing his gun, and crying out that we were betrayed and should sell our lives as dearly as possible, was just in the act of firing on one of these yelling thieves, but was prevented, by the intervention of some of our party, and the remonstrance of Capt. Grant. Thus they stood around us, half naked, painted in the most hideous manner, and with their arms ready in their hands. The other Indians, having driven our horses beyond the hills, and performed a war dance, on one of the neighboring summits, at a signal given by those in our camp, came charging down with whoop and yell, and thickened the ranks around us. Our situation was uncertain; the Chief and Capt. Grant, with the Frenchman, were engaged in an excited parley, the event of which, we did not know. From the great disparity in numbers, we were perfectly in the power of our foes, who could have crushed us in an instant, with a single blow; which any act or expression of rashness, or want of boldness, would have probably have brought about.
But the most affecting scene which our confused camp presented, was that of two little girls, who, trembling with fear, and in tears, crouched at their father's feet, seemed to implore that protection from a parent which he could not give. To feel one's self in the power of a mean and miserable foe, whom he despises, is maddening; and when so surrounded, powerless, and submissive, we could not but dream of vengeance, as we looked about us, and hope to crush, at some sweet future period, those grim frowning wretches. After a long consulation, in which the Serpent refered to the death of his son, and to the Two Shoshonees, (Snakes,) that had been killed, forgetting the many injuries, robberies, and insults, which emigrants from ​the United States had suffered from his people; he agreed to consider the insult cancelled, to return our horses, and withdraw peaceably, without interrupting us or our property, upon Capt. Grant promising to give him a green blanket, and some tobacco. They kept their faith towards us, but not towards our property; taking advantage of their proximity, and the disorder, to pilfer whatever they could lay their hands on. Having regained our animals, and packed up, we followed Capt. Grant, and joined his camp in the evening. This circumstance happened on the 20th of May. Having joined with Capt. Grant, we continued to travel with him, until we reached his Fort.
At our second encampment on the Brule River, a Frenchman and his Indian wife came to us, from Fort Boise. They came expressly to meet Capt. Grant, having, probably, some message. The Frenchman told us, that the village near the mouth of the river, exasperated against the white people, on account of the death of their friends, would hardly allow him to pass. They debated among themselves whether they should not kill him; but by the intervention of his wife, who was of their tribe, and related to some of the Indians of the village, and as he was not an American, they concluded to spare him. We were aware, that if we met any of these Indians, they would not be well disposed towards us; but this timely information put us more on our guard.
On the 30th of May, we crossed the Brule River, at the village of the unfriendly Indians. The women and children had fled from their huts, as soon as they became apprised of our approach; and here and there on the hills around, we could see them couched among the sage. They knew that we were Americans, and the men, standing around in groups, regarded us with angry, and sullen countenances. But under the circumstances, they were more in fear than we were, and appeared without their arms. As we passed, the relations of the two that had been killed, set up a howl of lamentation, which they continued as far as we could hear.
That evening, we pitched our camps on the banks of Snake River, three miles distant from the village. Many of the Diggers came into our encampment, and appeared to be anxious to obtain some opportunity of revenge. Some of them were carrying their arms, and some had their faces striped, and spotted, with black and white, the colors of war. Some of them were also harranging loudly about their misfortune, and telling how bad the Americans were, and how very bad were their own hearts. In ​the evening, Capt. Grant said to them, through his interpreter, that, as his countrymen and ours were friendly, and as we had been traveling together, we were then, all like one people, and that whatever act they committed against one, would be felt equally by the other, and treated accordingly. At dusk, we brought our animals close, and tied them up, between the line of our camps and the River. During the night, we kept up a vigilant guard, and fortunately were not disturbed.
On the 1st of June, we arrived opposite Fort Boise, where we remained four days, while Capt. Grant was re-arranging, and disposing of some of his packs. The Diggers followed us here from their village on the Brule. By this time, it was generally known by the Indians in the neighborhood, that there was a small party of Americans in their country; and their numbers increasing, about our camp, gave us reason to suppose, that they still cherished some hostile intention. We had little fear for our personal safety, but were somewhat uneasy on account of our animals. We were confident, that if they undertook to take them in the night, we must lose part, at least.
In the evening, Capt. Grant again addressed them, through his interpreter. In summing up their grievances, they accused one of the last Emigration, who had his horses stolen, of taking others in their stead, from an innocent Indian; and complained, that it was very bad, in that American, to make one man suffer for what another had done. “Very true,” replied the Captain; “I am glad to find you agreeing with me. That was a bad man, and you would be equally so, were you to make these men, who have never injured you, suffer, in any way, for the wrongs and losses you have received from others.” To this they would not reply, and he continued: “He who took your horses, I say, was a bad man, but the men who killed your people did well. Those who were killed were thieves, and they deserved to die. Do you act as they acted, and you shall be treated in the same manner. If you wish to steal any of these horses, it is good. Come this very night. You will find many of them loose on the prairie, far from our camps. Those only that are swift and strong, we will keep here. You need not come for them; we never sleep. But remember this: if you come, wherever you go, we will follow you. If, in the morning, one of our horses is missing, we will follow you. We will not only retake our own, but will drive away yours also. We will not be content with destroying your villages; but, in order to rid ourselves, and every one else, of such thieves and pests, we ​will wipe you from the face of the earth. Go away now, and come to-night if you wish. But remember; I have but one tongue. I talk straight.”
The Indians took him at his word. Our horses, excepting a few, were allowed to wander, unguarded, over the prairie, but none of them were disturbed. These people afterwards brought us fish, and whatever else they had to sell, and we traded with them. They appeared to have abandoned all idea of disturbing us, and we had no more difficulty with them.
On the 6th of June, we left Fort Boise, and traveled up Snake River, on the South side.
On the 8th, we noticed a Comet in the North West. We observed it with a common spy glass, and it was so distinct, that we could not be mistaken. It continued to appear, in the same quarter, for many days.
On the 10th, at the middle of the day, we came to the place, where emigrants generally cross over to the North side of the river. There was some demand in our camp for horse-shoes and horse-shoe nails, and one of the party, who reported himself to be an excellent swimmer, and at the same time, something of a brave, had been saying for several days previous, that he knew where a large lot of such articles had been buried on an island, at this crossing, and promised, besides, when we we came to the place, to swim over and get them. We now reminded him of his promise. He hesitated a little, but finally consented, by another person agreeing to accompany him. It was but a short swim to the island, and the person who went with him made it easily; but he, when he had got about two thirds of the way over, became frightened, strangled, and called for help. His companion in the enterprise, assisted him to the shore, and he began to search for the hidden treasures: but time had obliterated the marks, either from the place, or from his memory; and the search was in vain. His companion became satisfied, in a few minutes, and returned; but he who was the leader in the enterprise, and was such an excellent swimmer, and above all, who was so brave, shrank from the dangers of another voyage. He had now, neither confidence in his craft, nor crew. He was lame in his arm, subject to the cramp, short winded, and withal, a little afraid. He was in a sad condition, perfectly naked, while the rays of a mid-day sun, were pouring down with a withering intensity. In the shade, he was literally covered with hungry musquetoes; and out of it, he was blistered by the excessive heat of the sun. It was an hour, before an Indian could get horses to bring him off; and during this time, he enjoyed all the ​luxuries, and comforts of his solitary situation, uninterrupted, undivided, and unenvied. When he returned, we received him as the Robinson Crusoe of the camp; and the Island, in commemoration of the event was afterwards the Juan Fernandez of the Desert.
We continued on our way, without interruption, or occurrence worthy of notice; traveling about twenty miles each day; and on the 17th, arrived at Fort Hall. Here, and in the camp of Capt. Grant, we received every assistance, attention, and respect, which it was in his power to give, or we could desire; contrary to the treatment we formerly received from him, while on our way to Oregon. For this kindness and attention, under such circumstances as those in which we were often placed, we will ever feel the deepest sense of gratitude, and consider ourselves, but of every individual in the company. Yet, while we remember those kindnesses, with the warmest feelings, justice forbids that we should forget entirely that other treatment, so contrary.
We remained at Fort Hall one day, in order to rest our animals, and have the company of a Mexican, who would conduct us by the shortest route, to the camp of Messrs. Vasques and Smith, (Peg Leg,) where we hoped to have some addition to our company. We received a letter at the Fort, written from their camp, and addressed to any Company, returning from Oregon to the United States; stating that there were several persons there, who wished to go down by the first opportunity, and requesting us to come that way. We were informed that they had probably gone, but our anxiety to receive any addition to our numbers, urged us to leave nothing doubtful.
Our company, excepting two, left Fort Hall on the 19th, for the Soda Springs. We delayed nearly one day, on the way, waiting for the two men who were behind; but becoming impatient, we determined to proceed to that point, by which, we knew they would have to pass. When we came to the Springs, we found that they had arrived already, and were waiting for us. We had prepared ourselves to talk hard to them, for causing us delay, but the information which they brought, was ample to shield them from our displeasure. There was a company behind, from California.
They were near, and we, of course, halted until they came up. We were soon to enter a country, inhabited by a powerful warlike, and hostile tribe of Indians, the Sioux; and it was with no small degree of mutual pleasure to us, that a kind Providence, guiding and guarding, was pleased ​to unite our small and inefficient forces; which, when thus united, amounted to only twenty-six persons. Under such circumstances, especially, as it brought together friends and acquaintances together, and who, before, had long been ignorant even of the existence of each other. And the event was more thrilling and impressive, as it occurred in such a wild, gloomy, barren, and savage country, far away from home and friends, where the human kind was seldom seen, and when they were, most generally avoided. We will not describe the scene, but leave it to the imagination of those who are not destitute of sensibility, and who cannot but appreciate, in some degree, the feelings which were awakened, by such an occasion.
On the 22d of June, two companies united, and proceeded, by moderate traveling, to the camp of Vasques and Peg Leg; the former of whom, had left his trading house, for fear of the Sioux and Shians. We found them several miles from the emigrants trail, on one of the branches of Green River; and, as many of our animals were much fatigued and reduced, we determined to remain several days.
We found, upon arriving at this place, that those persons who wrote the letter, which we received at Fort Hall, had met with a company of traders, and had been gone about twenty days. While remaining here, we were entertained by accounts of all the prairies that ever had been cut to pieces by the Sioux, all the difficulties and dangers which the white men, living in the mountains, had ever encountered by them, and probably a great many more. We passed, here, the 4th of July, and on the 5th, again proceeded.
Having crossed Green River, by rafting and swimming, on the 7th of July; in the morning, of the succeeding day, we met the van of a large Emigration, from whom we learned some of the principal events, which had occurred in the States, during the past year; among which, was the election of Mr. Polk to the presidency.
In a few days after we had met the Emigration, several of our party, anxious to travel faster than was deemed prudent by the majority, and unwilling to yield their own opinions, separating from the company, proceeded ahead. It is strange, that men so surrounded, on every hand, with danger, and at the same time perfectly conscious of their situation, should allow little trivial differences of opinion, to separate them; exposing their lives on account of a mere whim, which, at most, does to profess any ​benefit, worthy of consideration. But is so here. If a company is strong and united, there is no security that it will long continue so; if it is weak to-day, it is no reason that it will not be weaker to-mor-row.
We found the Emigration scattered near five hundred miles, and the number of persons composing it, were about three thousand. They were in fine spirits, and high hopes, and far ahead of either of the Emigrations who had gone previously. We found Buffalo on Sweet Water, where we were able, by halting a few days, to recruit our stock of provisions.
On the 21st, we met a Mr. Sublet, brother to the celebrated mountaineer, William Sublet, who informed us, that there was a large party of Sioux, somewhere below, in the vicinity of the North Fork, and near the trail; and that eight of them, a few days before had pursued one of their hunts, within a short distance of their camp. He gave, as his opinion, that it would be impossible for us to pass them without their seeing us, and that if they saw us, they would take our horses, and perhaps our hair, unless we could beat them in a fight. We were only seventeen men, and to complete the consolation, there were, probably, about eighty lodges of Sioux; with which there would be about seven hundred warriors. We had no alternative, but to proceed with caution. We sometimes traveled in the night, and always smothered our camp fires before it grew dark; prevented all unnecessary firing of guns, made our encampments as secluded as possible, and kept the strictest watch, both day and night. Under such circumstances, it was easy to make an Indian spy out of a rock, or a charging war party out of a whirlwind. We saw their trail, but Providence, our caution, or their absence, prevented us from seeing them, and them from seeing us.
We arrived at Fort Lauramie, without molestation or difficulty, on the 27th of July. Here we were doomed to suffer another very great diminution in our numbers. The majority of our little company, having become tired of long traveling, determined to dispose of their animals, and enjoy a few days of repose, in a place where they would be confident of security, and free from the toil and anxiety attendant upon our perilous way. Their intention was to go across to Fort St. Peters, on the Missouri River, in connection with the American Fur Company's wagons which were to start in a short time, with Buffalo robes, for that place. The Trading Companies here, had undertaken to send their robes down the Platte River in boats, but the River falling, left the broad channel almost ​without water, and their scows dry upon the sand. They were therefore compelled to persue some other course. The American Fur Company were hauling back the loading of their boats to Fort Lauramie, whence they would take, it, in some manner, across the country to Fort St. Peters, and thence, in batteaux, down the Missouri River to St. Louis. The other Company would take their's by land, directly to Independence. From Fort St. Peters, our companions were promised a passage on board the Fur Company's boats, to whatever point on the Missouri they wished. They arrived in the States, as we afterwards learned, in safety, but later, by about a month, than we who came directly by land.
Our little company, now dwindled down to seven persons, had yet to travel between seven and eight hundred miles, according to our estimate of the distance, through an Indian country: yet the reflection that we had passed over the most dangerous part of our way unharmed, gave us confidence to believe that the same protecting Providence would guide us on and guard us as before.
The Sioux and Shians, who, next to the Black Feet, are the terror of the mountains, and the tribes which had been the cause of our greatest dread, were now not so much to be feared. They are most likely to attack companies beyond Fort Lauramie, and especially those coming, from the West, because they say, they have been trading with the Snakes, their enemies. Although it was possible that we might see them between Fort Lauramie and the forks of the Platte, yet, in this part of their country, we knew they were much less to be dreaded: And in addition to this, they were beginning to have a much better idea of the strength of the whites. Formerly they had considered that they were weak, and that their numbers were very small. When the Emigration of 1843 passed through their country, they told the traders at Fort Lauramie, that they believed it to be the white people's big village, and the last of the race. Under this belief, they entertained serious notions, of going back, and taking possession of the country which they had abandoned. But an emigration of twelve hundred the following year, and one of three thousand the present year, had an effect to open their eyes; and they began to respect their power. Col. Carney's visit this year, with two or three hundred dragoons, had even made them to fear a little, and would, we believed, have a tendency to promote our safety. He had not only passed through the whole extent of their country, as far as the South Pass, but had called together, at Fort ​Lauramie, as great a number of those tribes as he could; among these were many of their Chiefs and braves, with whom he held a council; not only warning them of the punishment which they would receive, if they continued to molest and kill the Americans, but operating on their superstition, by a display of such things, as to them, were mysterious and supernatural.
After he had had a long talk with the Chiefs, and told them what he wished them to do, and what not to do, in respect to the white people passing through their country, he obtained from them in a promise, that they would henceforth, in these respects, act according to his wishes and requests. Having obtained this promise, which without the addition of fear would have been violated as freely as it had been given, he determined to work a little, if possible, upon their superstitions. The dragoons, with all military show, were paraded, and a field piece rolled out upon the prairie. The Colonel then proclaimed to the Chiefs and braves, and to all the Indians assembled, that he was about to inform the Great Spirit of their promise, and call him to witness the covenant which they had made. He bade them look up and listen. A sky-rocket rose in the air, and darting away on its mission, had almost buried itself in the bosom of the sky, when it burst, flashed in the heavens, reported to the Great Mysterious, resolved itself again into its airy form, and the errand was accomplished. Another, and another; three of the firy messengers arose in succession into the presence of the Great Spirit, and announced to him, that the Sioux and Shians had entered into a solemn covenant with a Chief of the white people, to be their friends, and to respect forever their lives and property. While they stood, with all the awe which ignorance and blind superstition could inspire, gazing into the heavens, where, just not they had been luminous with the mysterious display, a cannon was discharged; and while its deafning thunder shook the field, the ball flying, far away along the plain, bounding and rebounding, tore the earth, and marked its dusty track with clouds. “That,” said the Colonel, “was to open your ears, that you might not be deaf to what I am about to say. Can you hear?” “Yes,” replied the Chiefs, “we can hear." The second was discharged, roaring still louder than the first; and the ball again proved the power of the might engine that sent it. “Can you hear, I say?" demanded the Colonel. “Yes,” they replied, a little submissively, “we can hear well.” Again the cannon told, still louder. Three times it thundered in their ears. “Can you hear?” ​reiterated the Colonel. “I say, can you hear?” “We are not deaf; we can hear well; our ears are open. Speak. Let the great Chief of the white people speak whatever he wished.”
Col. Carney addressed them. “I am,” said he, “very little. The Great Chief of the white people is afar: he is in the bosom of a mighty nation; and his warriors around him, are like the grass upon the prairie, or the sand which cover the plains. He told me to go and talk to the Sioux and Shians, and I obeyed him. I am here. A thousand Chiefs who are mightier than I, wait to do his commands. He loves his friends, and is kind to them, but to his enemies, to those who destroy the lives of his people, he is dreadful. As the storm when it walks upon the mountains, and treads down the pines, so terrible are the warriors of the Great Chief, when they come upon their foes. Beware then, lest ye make him angry. Think before you break the pipe, which we have smoked together in friendship. Think well before you violate the covenant you have made with me and with my people, and to which we have called the Great Spirits to witness. Talk to your young men; counsel them that are foolish; tell them that we are mighty, and terrible in war. Bid them pause, and think, and tremble, before they spill again the blood of a white man. The past we will forget; it is buried. We will soon return to our homes, with the tidings of peace: but when we hear that your hands have split one drop more of the blood of our countrymen, we will come again. We will come with war. We will revenge all the wrongs that we have ever received. Then your eyes shall not be dry from weeping over your fallen warriors, and the blood of your nations shall not cease to flow, until we are weary from destroying. You say that you can hear. We will see. Be careful that your ears do not forget.;” They all answered, “It is good.”
Such we believe, is about the sense, in which we understood Mr. Bisonette, describing the treaty made by Col. Carney, with the Sioux and Shians. He is one of the principal partners in the neighboring trading establishment, Fort Platte, and we presume th: it is mainly correct. He gave us, as his opinion, that for a time, it would have a favorable influence over the conduct of the Indians; but that it would soon be forgotten, and disregarded, and that nothing but a strong military post, located in their country, could keep them in awe, and make the lives of Ameicans, safe among them.
Our little company, after a short delay, continued down the North ​Fork. On the 3d of August we approached the spot, where Mr. Adams was remaining, in charge of a large quantity of Buffalo robes, the cargo of one of the boats which had failed in descending the River. He was awaiting the arrival of wagons from Mr. Bisonette, to convey them to the States. As soon as we came in sight of Mr. Adams, we saw a village of Sioux coming, at the same time, from another direction. They arrived a few minutes before us, and were engaged in pitching their lodges when we came up. When we were yet half a mile off, we found two young Indians, sitting beside the road, who rose up, and gave us their hands in token of friendship; and then making signs to us to proceed, they led the way, to where their village was encamping, beside Mr. Adams.
We had been discovered by them from the hills on the South, out of which they came; and the two young men had been dispatched by their Chief, to ascertain our character, and to conduct us, if friends, of which they of course had little doubt, to the village.
Without dismounting, we delivered to Mr. Adams, a letter from Mr. Bisonette; enquired whether we would probably fall in with any of the Sioux below, and whether with the Pawnees; and what, in his opinion, would be their disposition towards us, in case we should. We smoked with the Chief, and after a few minutes conversation with Mr. Adams, from which we could determine nothing satisfactorily, we again turned into the trail, and continued down the river.
The Indians treated us with great civility. They did not crowd around, when we stopped, to pilfer and beg, as Indians generally do about a small party.
When we passed by their encampment, as we were leaving, the women and children, with some of the young men, came out and stood by the side of the road; and the Chief, and a few of the old men, walked with us three or four hundred yards, in hopes of receiving presents; yet without being importunate. We gave them a little tobacco, and a few other trifles, excusing ourselves for the smallness of our gifts, by telling them that we had traveled very far, and were then poor. They appeared satisfied, gave us their hands and returned.
We encamped a few miles below, and remained about three hours, but none of them came near us. Knowing the disposition of the people we were among, and their uncertainty, we deemed it prudent, however, to make the distance between us greater, before the next morning. But they ​were the last that we saw of the Sioux Indians; and from what cause they were induced to treat us with so much civility, we are uncertain. We attributed it, at the time, to Col. Carney's treaty with them, and to the imposing display which he exhibited.
Not having provided ourselves very abundantly with meat, while on Sweet Water, and not having seen any game on the North Fork, we began to be fearful, that we should not be able to procure provisions enough to last us in. But on the 5th of August, crossing over the South Fork, we found the valley and hills beyond, covered with thousands and thousands of Buffalo. We therefore pitched our camp, on the bank of the river, in the most convenient place we could find, and prepared to “make meat.”
On the following morning, two of the best riders and marksmen were selected, and mounted on the strongest and fleetest horses. Having divested themselves of the greater part of their clothing, and whatever else they could spare that would tend to add weight or gather the wind, and being armed with guns and pistols, they proceeded towards the nearest band, which would have numbered, perhaps, about a thousand. They rode along slowly, taking advantage of the wind, until they saw the band begin to notice them: then putting spurs to their horses, they urged the chase at full speed across the plain. Others followed at a less rapid rate, with loose animals, to bring in the meat.
We supposed that some of the largest of these Buffaloes were nearly seven feet high, and would probably weigh more than two thousand pounds.
It was a grand scene to look upon; that vast, living flood, moving on towards the hills, throwing huge clouds of dust into the air, and shaking, with their heavy tread, the very earth. The horsemen gained; and entering the band, which gave way at their approach, and closed around them, they spurred to gain the lead, where the fattest and best buffalo are always found. Their guns reported rapidly—the herd rushed on, swelling over the alternate hills, until the cloud of dust that marked their course, faded in the distance, and three fine Buffaloes lay stretched along upon the border of the valley. The hunters halted around their prey, butchered it, and the packmen came and bore it to the camp, where we cut it into thin slices, and dried it in the sun; having done which, we again proceeded down the South Fork.
But not being yet sufficiently provided for, we averaged our daily ​distance of about twenty-five miles, by traveling a large portion of the night; laying by in the middle of the day, when the sun was most powerful, to kill and dry meat. We continued this method of proceedure until we had supplied ourselves with provisions, and then again traveled as usual. When we came to the junction of the Platte, we found a vast herd of Buffalo, almost covering the valley. They were so thick, that, in many places, they blackened the earth for hundreds of acres. The lowest estimate made in our camp, of the number of that single herd, was, we believe, one hundred thousand, and it was, probably, much greater. During the time that we were passing them, in which we traveled about ten miles, the partially detached or smaller herds extending out from it, became frightened, as we proceeded, and kept pouring across our path, about two hundred yards before us, in an almost constant stream. Besides this, the hills were spotted in every direction, as far as the eye could reach, with bands of Buffalo. Such vast herds are, however, uncommon. Afterwards we ascertained the cause, as we thought, of their being assembled in such vast numbers.
On the morning of the 13th, about two hours before day, while we lay encamped upon the bank of the Grand Platte, we heard a drum beating below us, on the river. We were sure that it was the Pawnees; and, besides, that they were in great numbers, as they were on the middle ground, between their own country and that of the Sioux, where they never come, except in strong parties. We, therefore, made all possible haste to get under way, in order to pass them before they should discover us.
Having traveled a few miles, we passed through a large encampment, which had been left only a very short time; and all along the road, and on every side, there were fresh signs of a large body of Indians; and we had not proceeded much farther, before we were favored with still stronger proofs of it. We saw an Indian gliding along across the prairie, in a direction to meet our course, and then another, and again another, until they were nearly double our number.
They tried in every way to detain us: they endeavored to persuade us to go across to their village, at which, they said, there were fifteen hundred of their people. We refused, and they told us that there were a great many Buffalo a short distance below; that they intended to surround them the next day, and that they did not wish us to go on and frighten them. To this, although we were sure it was false, we replied, that we had an ​abundance of meat and would not disturb them; and continued still to move on at a rapid rate. They then began to threaten, and finally finding all of no avail, they rushed out towards the river several hundred yards, and began yelling and throwing up their blankets into the air. In a few minutes after the signal was given, we saw two or three long columns of mounted men emerge from the brush along the bank of the river, and come at full speed towards us. We had but a moment to counsel. Retreat was folly, since it would be impossible for us to gain any shelter, of advantageous place, before they would be on us. To fight, in the open prairie, against such odds—for there were more than forty to one, and would have been supported by four times that number—would have been madness. The only alternative left, was to wait the event, and be ready for the worst. There was a possibility that in this way, by proper management, we might avoid serious difficulty; any other would have been certain destruction. We were, however, determined, of course, to defend our lives and property as best we could, in the last extremity.
Three hundred armed men rushed up and surrounded us. Standing with our backs together, that we might see them draw, and be ready to return the blow, though feebly, when they struck, we watched their tone and movements. They seemed to differ, and to be undecided. Some appeared strongly inclined to insult and abuse; others checking these, seemed to require time to decide. After the expiration of some minutes, an old Indian came up, passed through the crowd, which gave way at his approach, and handed us a folded paper. We read it. It purported to be from the Indian Agent, and was addressed to white people, passing throgh that country. It stated that this Indian, who called himself White Man, was a Chief of the Pawnees, and had previously saved the lives of a small party from the United States, and returned them their property, which had been taken from them by some of the young men of his tribe; that he was a friend to the white people: and the writer desired those who might meet with him, to make him presents.
This Chief also requested us, to go over with them to the village; telling us the same story which had been told by those who first came to us, that there was a herd of Buffalo below, and that he did not wish us to frighten them away, since he intended to surround them on the following day.
From the character which the paper of the Agent gave the Chief, and ​from his venerable and friendly appearance, we were now almost persuaded to believe their story about the Buffalo. We hesitated for a moment, and some spoke in favor of going with them to their village. We had never seen Indians making “a surround,” and our anxiety urged us strongly. We thought how grand a scene it would be, to see fifteen hundred Pawnees, armed and mounted, after having formed in a circle around a large herd of Buffalo, close in upon them, with whooping, yelling, and firing; and then to see them, after the affrighted herd had scattered, cover the plains afar, with the confused, tumultuous, and excited chase; the whirling clouds of dust; the huge animals that had fallen, laying about on every side; the wild uproar, and the reckless eagerness of the half naked pursuers. Some thought less of looking on, but imagined how glorious it would be, all mounted, armed and flying over the level plain, to mingle in the tumult, pull down the mighty game, and be an Indian for an hour. Had not our homes and friends rose up against this curiosity, and urged us to proceed, we would have gone with the Pawnees to their village, been disappointed in seeing the anticipated sport, and probably, after having been stripped of every thing we had, would have been insulted and abused.
Our desire to hasten on prevailed, and we replied in the same manner as before; told them that we had far to go, and did not wish to delay; and further, that if he was unwilling to trust us, he might send some of his people along, until we had passed the Buffalo, to see that we did not disturb them. He finally consented to this, and we now considered that we were safe. We smoked with the Chief, as a mutual pledge of friendship, made him such presents as our situation and circumstances would afford, and departed, accompanied by twenty-two of his men.
Having gone about ten miles, we halted, and unloaded our animals, that they might eat and rest, as we had been traveling at a rapid rate, from early in the morning until now, which was about the middle of the afternoon.
We expected to part with the Indians here, and therefore opened our bales and offered them something to eat, which they refused to accept, saying they had plenty in their camp. and as soon as our bales were opened, and our baggage scattered, they began taking whatever they could lay their hands on. We saw now that they intended to rob us, and knowing that it would not do to yield to them in the least, we regained what they ​threatened, saying that they would take away every thing we had. We showed them our guns in reply. Hastily reloading our animals, with our arms in our hands, we mounted, pointed them to the backward track, and took the other ourselves.
There was an old Indian who followed us a short distance, and either from friendship, or a desire to learn what course we intended to pursue, told us, with a great pretension of regard for our safety, that “it was good for us not to sleep,” but to continue traveling, “after the sun had gone down:” that some of their young men “had bad hearts,” and were “very angry;” and that they would follow and attack us in the night. We expressed our thanks for his kindness, without intimating our intentions, and left him.
We had not seen a single Buffalo, nor did we afterwards; and we thought that this was only a scheme they had laid, to get us into the village, where they might strip us more effectually, and withour our knowing who did it; and that finding we would not go willingly, they consented to our proposal, thinking that three times our number, would be sufficient to accomplish their object. They probably considered, in addition to this, that by the method which they adopted, the tribe would avoid the responsiblity of the act. As the greater portion of those who came to us, had gone away professing friendship, they would, with some degree of probability, have been able to assert their ignorance, of any intention on the part of those who went with us, to commit a robbery. It was our opinion, that they did not wish to take our lives, if they could do so by means, in which the tribe would not seem, generally, to participate. Could they have destroyed us entirely, without any possibility of detection, they would have been very willing to have done it; but they had made like attempts several times before, and failed; they were now a little fearful, for they had been threatened by officers of our government, and had, from experience, some confidence in their ability to execute. Had we gone to their village, they might have stolen almost every thing that we had, and in such case, all would have been innocent. Had the twenty-two succeeded, they only, and not the tribe, would have been criminally responsible. We had no doubt but that all were perfectly acquainted with the intentions of the party that undertook to rob us, and would have been sharers to some extent in the booty; and that, had they considered a failure at all probable, had taken, with as little force as possible. They feared us, and yielded; but ​they would have adopted some other surer method of procedure.
The Pawnees were descending the river, and all appearances favored the opinion, that they had been the cause of the great assemblage of Buffalo at the forks of the Platte. Having passed the great band a short distance, very few others were afterwards seen, although the whole valley, on the South side, had been trodden recently, by numerous herds.
That we might not fall into their hands again, we concluded to follow the old Indian's advice; and that we might decieve him also, we determined to do more; and having halted a little before sundown, to take our supper and allow our animals to graze, we proceeded, following the road until it was quite dark, when we left it, and bore off to the South, until we entered the hills: we then turned again, and followed the direction of the river, steering our course by the starts, until after midnight. We then halted and slept still morning without food or water.
As soon as it was light, we again loaded our animals, and steered across the plains for the waters of the Kanzas, which we thought we could reach in a day's travel.
About 12 o'clock we began to differ about the course we were traveling, and came near separating, but finally agreed by changing it a little; and in the evening, after having traveled about forty miles, we came to a tree, by a small brake that ran towards the East, in which we found a pool of water, and stopped for the night.
The way across, between the Platte and the waters of the Kanzas, before the emigrants had made a beaten track, had always been considered very difficult to find. The distance at different places, varies between twenty five and fifty miles; the country is level and monotonous, and had not a single land-mark, by which the traveler may be guided. Many persons much more experienced on the prairie than we, had been lost in attempting to pass from one stream to the other; and the country, form this circumstance, had obtained the name of “The Lost Ground.” The Catholic Priest, who was till with us, being a foreigner, and not at all accustomed tomoving at random, without track or guide, through such wilds, became alarmed at our situation, and declared he was certain that we should never find the trail, and he would be very glad, he said, to giver every thin ghe possessed, to see again the track of a wagon. We were fortunated in changing our course, for if we had not done so, we should have missed entirely, the head of Little Blue River, and would have ​been compelled to travel another day, and perhaps longer, before we would have come to another stream.
This fortunate circumstance—finding the pool—was highly pleasing to us. It had been nearly twenty-four hours since we had drunk water, and we had been traveling rapidly during the day, over the dry plains and through the hot sun. We noticed, in the course of the day, that our voices became much changed, from lack of moisture, and as we refrained form eating, also, there was a feeling of emptiness in the stomach, peculiar, and very disagreeable. When we came to the pool, our parched lips did not stop to question the quality of the water: and our animals were equally as eager as ourselves: they plunged into it, and we were compelled to drag them away to prevent them from killing themselves. The person whose turn it was to guard during the day, was obliged to watch the pool almost constantly, in order to keep the animals from drinking too much. We climbed into the tree with our hatchets, and trimmed off the dry limbs, which furnished us sufficient fuel to cook with and in a very short time, we had banished both hunger and thirst, and feeling secure in our secluded and unfrequented position, we contrasted this present comparatively comfortable and safe condition, very pleasantly with the past.
In the morning we followed the breaks until they joined with others, and finally brought us to a deep dry channel, along which there was timber; it continued to increase in size; as we proceeded down, and on the 16th of August, about the middle of the day we came again to the emigrant's trail, and knew that it was the Little Blue River, down which we had been traveling.
We saw no more of the Pawnees, and on the 22d we crossed the Big Blue River, and came into the country of the Kanzas Indians, from whom we had nothing to fear so long as we kept a strict guard; which we never failed to do in an Indian country.
On the 24th, we met a small company bound for California, and on the 25th, the wagons of Messrs. Adams & Bissonette, Indian traders, of Fort Platte.
On the 27th, we crossed the Kanzas River; where, finding the water too deep to take our baggage on our horses, we were compelled to carry it over on our shoulders.
On the 29th, late in the night, we passed the boundary line, between the States and the Indian Territory, and encamped near West Post, ​Missouri, having become lost and bewildered among the roads and fences, to which we were unaccustomed. The darkness of night hid every mark of civilization when we came; and we slept, without appreciating the change. We awoke with the rising sun, to look upon fields, orchards, gardens, houses and villages; our country and our countrymen.