# Face to Face with the Mexicans

MEXICO CITY.
Some fragrant trees
By flower-sown seas
Where boats go up and down,
And a sense of rest
To the tired breast
In this beauteous Aztec town.   But the terrible thing in this Aztec town,
That will blow men's rest into stormiest skies,
Or whether they journey or they lie down—
These wide and these wonderful Spanish eyes!
Great walls about,
Gate posts without,
That prop these sapphire skies;
Two huge gate posts
Snow white, like ghosts—
Gate posts to this Paradise!   But, oh! turn back from the high-walled town;
There is trouble enough in this world, I surmise,
Without men riding in regiments down
To die by those perilous Spanish eyes!
 —Joaquin Miller.
FACE TO FACE
WITH THE MEXICANS:
The
Domestic Life, Educational, Social, and Business Ways,
Statesmanship and Literature, Legendary and
General History of the Mexican People.
AS SEEN AND STUDIED BY AN AMERICAN WOMAN DURING
SEVEN YEARS OF INTERCOURSE WITH THEM.
BY
FANNY CHAMBERS GOOCH.
With 200 Illstrations.
NEW YORK:
FORDS, HOWARD, & HULBERT.
Copyright, 1887, by FANNY CHAMBERS GOOCH.
Press of J J. Little & Co. Astor Place, New York.
Carmen R. de Diaz
TO
MY MEXICAN FRIENDS
THIS VOLUME,
IN WHICH I HAVE ENDEAVORED
TO EXPRESS MY APPRECIATION OF MEXICAN CHARACTER AND
SHOW IT TRUTHFULLY TO MY COUNTRYMEN,
IS DEDICATED.
[Translation of letter from President Diaz.]
Mexico, April 1, 1886.
Mrs. Fanny Chambers Gooch,
Present.
Having read your favor of day before yesterday, and complying with the kind desire which you are pleased to express, I have the pleasure to send you herewith the photographs of my wife and myself. We are grateful to you for your consideration, and also thank you for your courtesy in notifying us of your approaching journey, which I hope you will make with all happiness. I remain your attentive and affectionate servant,
Porfirio Diaz.
PREFACE.
The descriptions of Mexican life, customs, and character embraced in the following chapters are drawn from a close and interested scrutiny of the people of our neighboring Republic during a residence and visits among them including in all a period of about seven years.
Like all foreigners, I was practically a stranger to the marked peculiarities of race, social and business life, government, and religion there to be encountered. In all that I had read on the subject, in books or transient sketches, I found that no one had endeavored to minutely describe certain phases of Mexican life and character, necessary to be understood in order to fully appreciate the people.
First impressions of writers are either glowing on account of novelty, excitement, and varied pleasures, or marked by unfavorable criticisms obtained from a mere surface-view of the new society with which they mingle. I shared in the variety of impressions common to all strangers; but experience with the people and a careful observation of them brought about a change in my opinions as to the fitness of their government and national customs for the varied races of their Republic. And more than this: a closer contact also revealed to me the high culture and splendid attainments of her men and the warm, sympathetic hearts of her women.
The longer I mingled with the Mexican people the more forcibly was I impressed with the fact that they are not properly understood by their Anglo-Saxon neighbors. As this thought grew in my mind day by day, there grew with it a desire to acquaint my own countrymen more intimately with them, and, if possible, secure a fairer appreciation of a people whom it has been too long the custom to decry, but who deserve the highest commendation for their works and institutions, projected and carried out under many difficulties. ​To accomplish this task, which I felt was a sacred mission and a tribute that I wished to pay to my Mexican friends, I undertook the present volume. I have not failed to realize that the field is new and that it required a more skillful pen than mine to accomplish all that was intended. The details were so numerous and yet so indispensable to the full delineation of character and customs, that great patience has been necessary to eliminate from the material accumulated much that was interesting but not essential to the main design of the work. Then, too, dealing with so many subjects grouped under general headings, the tendency was to make broken and fragmentary sketches. Every chapter will be found to be complete in itself, however, and all serve to give faithful pictures of the people.
Having lived in close personal contact with the domestic service of the country, I have devoted a few of the initial chapters to this unique and, to us, humorous phase of Mexican life,—showing the unfailing inbred adherence to national characteristics.
In submitting this volume to the people of both Republics, it is with the sincere wish that it may, in a measure, lead to a better acquaintance the one with the other, and that this acquaintance may induce both to realize that they have differences and peculiarities naturally adapted to their governments, races and religions. Each can respect and co-operate with the other in peace and harmony, independent and separate as they ever should remain, fixed by nature; but sisters as Republics.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.
A duty would be neglected if I failed to pay a tribute to the many friends from whom acts of kindness were received during my residence and journeys in Mexico. To mention each one is impossible, because none were met who did not aid me in my efforts, either by words or acts, which, though perhaps forgotten by them, will ever be by me most gratefully remembered.
To ex-Governor John Ireland of Texas my first acknowledgments ​are due. He has taken a deep personal interest in my work and encouraged me in its execution, furnishing me with letters to President Diaz and governors of various Mexican States; to General Henry R. Jackson, American Minister; to Major Joseph Magoffin, Collector of Customs at El Paso, and to other leading personages, and obtained for me facilities for full access to various sources of information.
General Hamilton P. Bee and Dr. Halbert P. Howard, both of whom have had a life-knowledge of Mexico, rendered me valuable assistance with letters of introduction to distinguished citizens of the Mexican Republic.
To S. G. Sneed, Esq., my thanks are due for his sympathetic interest in the preparation of the work and the benefit of his cultivated literary taste.
To Dr. D. T. Iglehart, Hon. J. W. Robertson and Mr. Sterling B. Allen for many kindnesses, and to Mr. J. A. Hooper, of the "Gould system" of Southwestern Railways, for official courtesies in traveling.
At El Paso I was the recipient of many gracious attentions from Mr. R. F. Campbell and family and Mrs. Fannie D. Porter and family.
To Major Joseph Magoffin and family I am specially indebted for unbounded hospitality and assistance on my journey both in going and returning. Major Magoffin presented to me Señor J. Escobar, Mexican Consul, and together they rendered me invaluable aid by having circulars printed, stating my object and commending me to the Mexican people. Señor Escobar also gave me letters of introduction to Señor Mariscal, Mexican Minister for Foreign Affairs, and anticipated every need in my introduction at the capital.
Señor Mariscal received me with true Mexican courtesy and appointed Señor José J. Jimenez to accompany me to various public institutions. During my stay Señor Mariscal rendered me many other valuable services.
To Mr. Frederick P. Hoeck, who personally presented my letters, and to Mr. Charles E. Cummings, both of the Mexican capital, I am happy to make acknowledgments.
Our minister, General Henry R. Jackson, and his estimable wife ​received me with warm encouragement and kindness, showing me distinguished attentions at the legation.
The editor of The Two Republics, Mr. J. Mastella Clark, and his charming wife bestowed on me many kind favors and hospitalities.
Among other kind American friends were Mr. and Mrs. E. J. Gould, Mr. and Mrs. G. F. Mayer, Mrs. J. L. Corella, Rev. J. J. Gribbin, Mr. H. G. Payne, Major Robert Gorsuch, Mr. S. J. Bloodworth, Mr. F. R. Guernsey, and Mr. and Mrs. R. F. Pitten.
I am indebted for many courtesies to Major E. W. Jackson, Managing Director of the Mexican Central Railway, to Mr. R. C. Peeples, Superintendent of the Mexican National Railway, and to Mr. Thomas Braniff, Managing Director of the Mexican Railway, and for courtesies from railway officials in all my travels.
The Mexican Press Association appointed three of its most accomplished members, Señores Augustin Arroyo de Anda, Alberto G. Bianchi, and Bernabe E. Bravo, to show me attentions in the name of the association. To these gentlemen I am deeply indebted for continual courtesies.
To Dr. Semelider my thanks are due for valuable information, and to Dr. Ocadiz, Secretary of the San Carlos Academy, Judge Ignacio Sepulvida, and Señor Zazzimende, for various attentions.
Dr. Antonio Peñafiel, of the National Museum, gave me access to his splendid library and collection of Mexican antiquities, and jointly with his brother-in-law, Señor Lamberto Asiain, presented me with valuable scientific works.
The family of Señor Tirso Calderon, with whom I resided in the City of Mexico, will ever be held in grateful remembrance for their untiring attentions and tender regard. I am specially indebted to Señora Calderon for introductions into the homes of many distinguished people.
To His Excellency L. S. Ross, present Governor of Texas, I make my grateful acknowledgments.
The book has been illustrated principally by Miss Isabel V. Waldo, a portrait painter of New York, who was in the City of Mexico during ​my stay there. Her portraits of the various types are taken from life, and are faithful delineations of the characters they represent.
The illustrations on pages 65, 265, 429, and opposite page 183, were kindly sketched for me by Ramon Casteñada, a young student of the San Carlos Academy.
The initals and outline sketches were drawn by P. G Cusachs.
While the body of the work has been the result of my personal experiences and observations among the Mexican people, in the historical chapters I have availed myself of the researches of Hubert Howe Bancroft in his histories of Mexico from 1804 to 1861; Prescott's Conquest of Mexico; also Brantz Mayer's Mexico: Aztec, Spanish and Republic, and Mexico as It Was and as It Is; also Humboldt's works on Mexico.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
A NEW HOME AND NEW FRIENDS.
Tradition and founding of Saltillo—Origin and derivation of the name—Opinions vary—Coahuila—Origin of the name—Saltillo, the seat of important industries—Making a new home—Beautiful scenery—Calle Real, the historic seat—Architecture—Home in an old Mexican mansion—Doors, roof, windows, floors, keys—Adobe roofs—Water spouts—Relics of Mexican grandeur—Absence of modern conveniences—Fears of ghosts and hobgoblins—A nocturnal adventure—Interesting discoveries—Visit from a Mexican youth—Scenes from my window
CHAPTER II.
IN MOTHER NOAH'S SHOES.
Primitive housekeeping—The indispensable mozo—Extraordinary culinary arrangements—The metate or mill—Pancho's wit and intelligence—Daily revelations. Wrestling with a foreign tongue—Primitive practices—Going to market—Mexican articles of food—Street scenes—A familiar face in a strange land—The burros—Retail venders—A cooking-stove—The disgust of the natives—The stove's oration.
CHAPTER III.
NO ES COSTUMBRE.
The lack of a broom—A friend in need—The escobero, broom-vender—House-cleaning—Astonishing the natives—Pancho's amiability gives out—He leaves me for his "sick grandmother"'—Pancho's successors—Courteous insubordination—Greek meets Greek—Pancho's successors depart—Peculiar names and characteristics of servants—"Little John"—Wifely devotion—Marital tyranny—An undressed fowl—Knotty points
CHAPTER IV.
THE LOAN OF A MOZO AND A TRIP TO PALOMAS.
Successive departures of successive mozos—Cosme, our borrowed mozo—We set out for Palomas—Cosme in the van—His John Gilpin ride Palomas—A typical Mexican home—A surgical operation—Inquisitive hospitality—Inherent courtesy—A Mexican dinner—Embroidery and fancy work—The "Pass of the Doves"—Our ride home—Poor Cosme!—He takes a mournful departure—His pious adios
CHAPTER V.
FROM BORDER TO CAPITAL ALONG THE MEXICAN CENTRAL.
The Mexican "All aboard!"—El Paso and Paso del Norte—Chihuahua—Santa Rosalia, its manners and customs—Dr. Tarver and family—Strange notices in a meson—Stations and scenery along the road—Zacatecas—Mines and mining—Aguas Calientes—Historic associations—National Palace—Public bathing of the common people—Bridge at Encarnacion—Queretaro—Maximilian's monument—Other towns along the road—Memorial crosses and stone-heaps—Nochistongo Pass—Arrival at Mexico City—Hotel San Carlos—The all-important camarista
CHAPTER VI.
TENOCHTITLAN—THE AZTEC CAPITAL.
The founding of the city—Invasion by the Spaniards—The three great causeways—The Spaniards' defeat—"Noche triste"—Atzcapotzalco—Mexico City—The Zocalo—Street—"Street of the Sad Indian"—Street cars—Pulque shops—Inundations and earthquakes—The Rome of America—Churches—Monuments—Industrial art and public schools—Public gardens—Markets—Charitable institutions—Pawn-shops—Theaters—Dry-goods stores—House-renting—Mexican flora—Art gallery and museum—The Viga Canal—Chapultepec—Climate—The Alameda—Funerals—Valley of Mexico—Popocatapetl—Iztaccihuatl
CHAPTER VII.
THE MEXICANS IN THEIR HOMES.
CHAPTER VIII.
FASTS AND FESTIVALS AND SOCIAL FORMS.
Harmony of the subjects—Change from Paganism to Christianity—Power of the Roman Catholic Church—Rupture of Church and State—All Saints' Day—All Souls' Day—Feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe—Weird sights and sounds—Celebration of a dia de santa—Celebrations at Morelia and Queretaro—Christmas—Posadas—Piñates—Festivities—La China Poblana—Pastorela in the rural districts—Feasts of the Epiphany, Candlemas, etc.—Carnival—Lent—Palm Sunday—Holy Week—Good Friday—Sabado de Gloria (Saturday of Glory)—Floral festival—Feast of St. John the Baptist—Funeral notices—Wearing of mourning—National feasts—Courtship and marriages—Cards: wedding, birth, and baptismal—Social ceremonies—Dress—The gorgeous hacendado—Gallantries—The danza— Outdoor amusements—Chapultepec military academy.
CHAPTER IX.
FROM MEXICO TO MORELIA ALONG THE MEXICAN NATIONAL.
A delightful journey—Charming views—Toluca—Institute Literario—Public school—Hacienda de la Huerta—Distinguished hospitalities—Touching street scenes—From Toluca to Morelia—Tepeji del Rio—Reminders of Ocampo's tragic death—Hotel de Michoacan—Characteristic hotel regulations—Rambles among the convents—A startling apparition—A unique bachelor establishment—Climate—Minerals—Fruits—Scenery—Peculiar lacquer ware—College of San Nicolas—Prisons and penitentiaries—Architecture—Visit to the Legislature—Morelian hospitality—Tribute from Mary Halleck Foote—Adios to Morelia.
CHAPTER X.
ACTORS AND EVENTS IN MEXICAN HISTORY.
CHAPTER XI.
A GLANCE AT MEXICAN LITERATURE.
Primitive literature—The twelve Franciscan friars, the pioneers of Mexican literature—Toribio Benavente—Bernardino de Sahagún—Las Casas and other early writers—Literary Association—General Palacio as a writer—Literary entertainment at his mansion—Altamirano—Guillermo Prieto—Juan de Dios Peza, the "Mexican Longfellow"—Francisco Sosa—Members of the literati—Mexican journalism—The Liceo Morelos—Mexican Press Association—Women writers—"Maraposa Indiana"—A pleasing token.
CHAPTER XII.
MORE ABOUT THE COMMON PEOPLE.
"The Silent Aztec Child of the Sun"—Poetical contribution by Joaquin Miller—Contrast between the Mexican and American Indian—Ingenuity of the former—Contentment of the laboring class—Clothing—Fine needlework—Advancement in education—Types—Courtesy among the poor—Their love of music—The lepero—The China Poblana—Making a portrait under difficulties—Social life and courtship—Marriage ceremonies—Bridal costumes—Street conversation—Mexican mole—Servant—Their devotion to their employers—Wages—Novel methods of keeping accounts Hospitality among the poor—Sewing-machines—Babies—Beauty of the juveniles—The evangelista (letter writer)—Annoying peddlers—An ingenious trick—Various avocations—Characteristic conversation—The lavanderas—The aguador, or water-carrier—Ancient superstitious beliefs—Modern superstitions—The tamalera—The curandera, or doctor—"I became a doctor by my natural intelligence"—Pharmacy extraordinary
CHAPTER XIII.
PUEBLA, CHOLULA, SAN MIGUEL SESMA AND ORIZABA ALONG THE MEXICAN RAILWAY.
Starting for Puebla—San Juan Teotihuacan, the Mexican Pompeii—Arrival at the Casa de las Diligencias—The imperturbable camarista—Puebla—Public buildings—Maternity hospital—Manufactories—"City of the Angels"—Cathedral—Market scenes—Picturesque costumes—Importance and resources of the State of Puebla—Pyramid of Cholula—Pyramids of Xochicalco and Papantla—Beautiful scenery—Incidental kindnesses—Visit to Madam Iturbide's hacienda—Morning song of the peons—A model plantation—Ancient aqueduct—On the road—Places of interest—Storm at Orizaba.
CHAPTER XIV.
THE VIRGIN OF GUADALUPE.
The tradition—Universal and firm belief in it—How the Virgin appeared to Juan Diego—Her command to build a chapel—Miraculous signs and visions—Building of the Church
CHAPTER XV.
AMONG THE CHILDREN.
The story of Gaitagileno—Lullabies, rhymes and nursery tales—Conundrums and games—"El pato"
CHAPTER XVI.
SCENES FROM MY WINDOW.
Picturesque pedestrians—The gorgeous serape—Novel method of taking home the wash—Venders of various articles—Entertaining panorama—Teatro Principal—Military review—An amusing diversion—A runaway—A perplexed butter-boy—Gritos—The tamalera—Touching incident—Song of the "costumbres"—Newsboys' cries
CHAPTER XVII.
WHAT THEY EAT AND HOW THEY COOK IT.
Skill of the ancient Aztecs in the culinary art—Primitive kitchens—A unique water filter—Ceremonious table observances—Delicious beverages—Recipes for toothsome dishes
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE AMERICAN COLONY.
"Mother of the American Colony"—Our little band in the sister republic—The American Benevolent Society—Hospital—Protestant churches—Bishop Riley—His labors and sacrifices—Celebration of Christmas among the Americans—Agreeable impressions left by our official representatives—General Henry R. Jackson—Simon Lara, founder of the American Hospital—Laying of the corner-stone—Eloquent speech by Gen. Jackson—Token of esteem to the General from the colony—His departure from Mexico and his farewell speech.
CHAPTER XIX.
A FEW OF THE POPULAR SONGS AND DANCES OF THE PEOPLE.
The National Anthem—The Danza known as Las Tres Gracias (Three Graces): 1. Aglas; 2. Talia; 3. Eufrasina—La Golondrina, the Mexican "Home, Sweet Home"—Los Naranjos ó Adela—I Ay Que Niquel!—La Paloma.
CHAPTER XX.
ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES.
Mutual dependence of the two republics—Causes of misunderstandings—Yankee haste versus Mexican slowness—Steps towards a better understanding—Mexico's wonderful resources—Tact of foreigners in business dealings—John Bull conforming to the "costumbres"—Success in retail trade—Extremes of wealth and poverty—Irrigation—Haciendas—Employees' accounts—Peons—Their intense conservatism—Work retarded by holidays—Mr. Guernsey on foreign labor—Taxes on produce—American miners—Variety of delicious fruits—The maguey plant—Manufacture of pulque, etc.—Tanneries—Shoes—Cattle-breeding—Butter: Its novel manufacture—Minor industries—Transformation of plebeian names—Domestication of American families in Mexico—Education—Naturalization laws—Climate—Police regulations—"Rurales"—Their bravery in rescuing the crew of the "Ranger"—Rewarded by President Cleveland—Judge Crosby on American enterprise and investments in Mexico—Ladies traveling in the Republic—Causes of Mexico's troubles—Her steady progression—Border troubles—The dawn of a new era.
ADIOS.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
| | | PAGE |
| 1 A Mexican Lady at Home | 1 A Mexican Lady at Home | 2 |
| 2 Madame Diaz | 2 Madame Diaz | 6 |
| 3 President Diaz | 3 President Diaz | 10 |
| 4 Mexican Plaza, Fountain and Cathedral | 4 Mexican Plaza, Fountain and Cathedral | 32 |
| 5 Tradition of Saltillo (Initial Letter) | 5 Tradition of Saltillo (Initial Letter) | 33 |
| 6 Calle Real, Saltillo | 6 Calle Real, Saltillo | 36 |
| 7 A Few of the Keys | 7 A Few of the Keys | 40 |
| 8 “Would have been a Load for a Burro" | 8 “Would have been a Load for a Burro" | 41 |
| 9 Jealous Husband's Windows | 9 Jealous Husband's Windows | 42 |
| 10 Two Views from One Window | 10 Two Views from One Window | 43 |
| 11 Water-spouts | 11 Water-spouts | 44 |
| 12 View in a Courtyard | 12 View in a Courtyard | 45 |
| 13 A Group of my Little Friends | 13 A Group of my Little Friends | 52 |
| 14 Portal in Saltillo | 14 Portal in Saltillo | 58 |
| 15 Primitive Housekeeping (Initial Letter) | 15 Primitive Housekeeping (Initial Letter) | 60 |
| 16 Kitchen No. 1 | 16 Kitchen No. 1 | 62 |
| 17 Kitchen No. 2 | 17 Kitchen No. 2 | 63 |
| 18 My Household Gods | 18 My Household Gods | 65 |
| 19 The Wood | 19 The Wood | 68 |
| 20 Taking their Meals in the Market | 20 Taking their Meals in the Market | 69 |
| 21 Selling their Little Stockings and Hoods | 21 Selling their Little Stockings and Hoods | 70 |
| 22 Pulque Shop—Patting Tortillas—Selling Flour—Newsboys | 22 Pulque Shop—Patting Tortillas—Selling Flour—Newsboys | 71 |
| 23 "There goes the Mexican Railroad!" | 23 "There goes the Mexican Railroad!" | 78 |
| 24 Huevos! Huevos! | 24 Huevos! Huevos! | 79 |
| 25 "Six for a real!" | 25 "Six for a real!" | 80 |
| 26 "It will give me Disease of the Liver" | 26 "It will give me Disease of the Liver" | 77 |
| 27 “No es costumbre!” (Initial Letter) | 27 “No es costumbre!” (Initial Letter) | 84 |
| 28 "Will you buy a Broom?" | 28 "Will you buy a Broom?" | 85 |
| 29 “No es costumbre!” | 29 “No es costumbre!” | 89 |
| 30 A Typical Market Scene | 30 A Typical Market Scene | 91 |
| 31 A Hungry Purchaser | 31 A Hungry Purchaser | 94 |
| 32 No! no hay : (there is none.) | 32 No! no hay : (there is none.) | 95 |
| | | PAGE |
| 33 Pio Quinto (Pius V.) as a doorkeeper | 33 Pio Quinto (Pius V.) as a doorkeeper | 97 |
| 34 A Street Scene | 34 A Street Scene | 98 |
| 35 "Oh, forgive me, I'll never do so again" | 35 "Oh, forgive me, I'll never do so again" | 100 |
| 36 By the Wayside (Initial Letter) | 36 By the Wayside (Initial Letter) | 102 |
| 37 "Well, now, I'm going" | 37 "Well, now, I'm going" | 103 |
| 38 A Country Store | 38 A Country Store | 105 |
| 39 “Pulque in Sheepskins Filled even to the Feet" | 39 “Pulque in Sheepskins Filled even to the Feet" | 108 |
| 40 Bound for Palomas | 40 Bound for Palomas | 109 |
| 41 A Picturesque Traveler | 41 A Picturesque Traveler | 110 |
| 42 As I Looked when Mounted upon the Sofacita | 42 As I Looked when Mounted upon the Sofacita | 112 |
| 43 At Home under the Aqueduct. | 43 At Home under the Aqueduct. | 115 |
| 44 Sweet Contentment at the "Pass of the Doves" | 44 Sweet Contentment at the "Pass of the Doves" | 121 |
| 45 “Your American Customs are too hard on me!" | 45 “Your American Customs are too hard on me!" | 123 |
| 46 Old Stone Church at El Paso, Texas | 46 Old Stone Church at El Paso, Texas | 125 |
| 47 "All Aboard!" (Initial Letter) | 47 "All Aboard!" (Initial Letter) | 127 |
| 48 The Street of Guadalupe, Chihuahua | 48 The Street of Guadalupe, Chihuahua | 129 |
| 49 Water-carrier of Santa Rosalia | 49 Water-carrier of Santa Rosalia | 132 |
| 50 Top of Kitchen Chimney in Santa Rosalia | 50 Top of Kitchen Chimney in Santa Rosalia | 133 |
| 51 Wending their Weary Way | 51 Wending their Weary Way | |
| 52 City of Zacatecas | 52 City of Zacatecas | 135 |
| 53 The National Palace at Aguas Calientes | 53 The National Palace at Aguas Calientes | 143 |
| 54 The Puente Encarnacion | 54 The Puente Encarnacion | 145 |
| 55 Monument to Maximilian at Queretaro | 55 Monument to Maximilian at Queretaro | 147 |
| 56 Water-carrier of Queretaro | 56 Water-carrier of Queretaro | 149 |
| 57 The great Nochistoogo Pass | 57 The great Nochistoogo Pass | 151 |
| 58 The "Home, Sweet Home" of the Mozo of San Carlos | 58 The "Home, Sweet Home" of the Mozo of San Carlos | 153 |
| 59 “We never furnish Soap and Matches in this Hotel" | 59 “We never furnish Soap and Matches in this Hotel" | 154 |
| 60 Past and Present (Initial Letter) | 60 Past and Present (Initial Letter) | 155 |
| 61 The Zocalo | 61 The Zocalo | 159 |
| 62 The New and the Old | 62 The New and the Old | 162 |
| 63 The Cathedral | 63 The Cathedral | 167 |
| 64 Water Carrier at the Capital | 64 Water Carrier at the Capital | 170 |
| 65 Tree of the Little Hands(Colored Plate) | 65 Tree of the Little Hands(Colored Plate) | 174 |
| 66 The Aztec Calendar Stone | 66 The Aztec Calendar Stone | 178 |
| 67 Toltec— Colossal Head in Diorite | 67 Toltec— Colossal Head in Diorite | 179 |
| 68 Huitzilopochtli, The Aztec God of War | 68 Huitzilopochtli, The Aztec God of War | 180 |
| 69 An Ancient House on the Viga Canal, and a few of the Passers-by | 69 An Ancient House on the Viga Canal, and a few of the Passers-by | 183 |
| 70 Chapultepec, with View of Military College in the Extension | 70 Chapultepec, with View of Military College in the Extension | 185 |
| 71 Scene in the Alameda | 71 Scene in the Alameda | 189 |
| 72 Idlers in the Zocalo | 72 Idlers in the Zocalo | 191 |
| | | PAGE |
| 73 Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl | 73 Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl | 194 |
| 74 The Pet of the Household (Initial Letter) | 74 The Pet of the Household (Initial Letter) | 198 |
| 75 Entrance to a Mexican Home | 75 Entrance to a Mexican Home | 203 |
| 76 “One Little Moment" | 76 “One Little Moment" | 211 |
| 77 "He is too Stingy to pay his Debts" | 77 "He is too Stingy to pay his Debts" | 211 |
| 78 "He Plays on the Credulity of his Friends" | 78 "He Plays on the Credulity of his Friends" | 211 |
| 79 "She's very' rich, has plenty of Money" | 79 "She's very' rich, has plenty of Money" | 211 |
| 80 A Very Great Critic | 80 A Very Great Critic | 212 |
| 81 "Adios" | 81 "Adios" | 212 |
| 82 “He's a sharper." | 82 “He's a sharper." | 212 |
| 83 Salutation from Balcony | 83 Salutation from Balcony | 212 |
| 84 "You can't do that now" | 84 "You can't do that now" | 213 |
| 85 Interior of Chapel on the Hacienda of Sra Guadalupe Bros | 85 Interior of Chapel on the Hacienda of Sra Guadalupe Bros | 216 |
| 86 The Palacio Mansion | 86 The Palacio Mansion | 219 |
| 87 Stairway in the Palacio Home | 87 Stairway in the Palacio Home | 223 |
| 88 The Sala Grande in the Palacio Home | 88 The Sala Grande in the Palacio Home | 226 |
| 89 Corridor in the Palacio Home | 89 Corridor in the Palacio Home | 229 |
| 90 Washstand in a Mexican House | 90 Washstand in a Mexican House | 233 |
| 91 An Orchid | 91 An Orchid | 235 |
| 92 Little Alfonso. "I know English" | 92 Little Alfonso. "I know English" | 238 |
| 93 The Tulipan (Initial Letter) | 93 The Tulipan (Initial Letter) | 242 |
| 94 Flor de la Noche Buena (Colored Plate) | 94 Flor de la Noche Buena (Colored Plate) | 246 |
| 95 Ready for the Fiesta | 95 Ready for the Fiesta | 250 |
| 96 An Orchid with Pink Centre | 96 An Orchid with Pink Centre | 250 |
| 97 A Few of those who Attended the Feast of Guadalupe | 97 A Few of those who Attended the Feast of Guadalupe | 253 |
| 98 Cathedral of Guadalupe and the Chapel on the Cerro del Tepayac | 98 Cathedral of Guadalupe and the Chapel on the Cerro del Tepayac | 255 |
| 99 Bits from Guadalupe | 99 Bits from Guadalupe | 262 |
| 100 His Stock in Trade of Gay Pinates | 100 His Stock in Trade of Gay Pinates | 265 |
| 101 The Pretty "China Poblana" | 101 The Pretty "China Poblana" | 270 |
| 102 Love-making from the Balcony | 102 Love-making from the Balcony | 278 |
| 103 Hacendados | 103 Hacendados | 287 |
| 104 Floripondio, with its Snowy Bells (Initial Letter) | 104 Floripondio, with its Snowy Bells (Initial Letter) | 293 |
| 105 The Indian Village of San Francisquita | 105 The Indian Village of San Francisquita | 295 |
| 106 Nevada de Toluca | 106 Nevada de Toluca | 298 |
| 107 Water-Carrier of Guanajuato | 107 Water-Carrier of Guanajuato | 302 |
| 108 An Object of Horror | 108 An Object of Horror | 305 |
| 109 College of San Nicolas | 109 College of San Nicolas | 309 |
| 110 Monument to Morelos, Calle Real | 110 Monument to Morelos, Calle Real | 311 |
| 111 First Patio in College of San Nicolas | 111 First Patio in College of San Nicolas | 313 |
| 112 Soldiers of 1821 (Initial Letter) | 112 Soldiers of 1821 (Initial Letter) | 315 |
| | | PAGE |
| 113 The Patriot Hidalgo | 113 The Patriot Hidalgo | 317 |
| 114 José Maria Morelos | 114 José Maria Morelos | 323 |
| 115 The Emperor Augustin de Iturbide | 115 The Emperor Augustin de Iturbide | 328 |
| 116 Madame Iturbide and Son | 116 Madame Iturbide and Son | 338 |
| 117 Vicente Guerrero | 117 Vicente Guerrero | 340 |
| 118 Guadalupe Victoria | 118 Guadalupe Victoria | 343 |
| 119 General Santa Anna, when President for the Third Time | 119 General Santa Anna, when President for the Third Time | 345 |
| 120 Manga de Clavo, the Hacienda of Santa Anna | 120 Manga de Clavo, the Hacienda of Santa Anna | 346 |
| 121 Santa Anna at the Time of his Death | 121 Santa Anna at the Time of his Death | 348 |
| 122 Benito Juarez | 122 Benito Juarez | 350 |
| 123 Tomb of Juarez | 123 Tomb of Juarez | 352 |
| 124 Gomez Farias | 124 Gomez Farias | 357 |
| 125 Ignacio Mariscal | 125 Ignacio Mariscal | 361 |
| 126 Matias Romero | 126 Matias Romero | 366 |
| 127 General Ramon Corona | 127 General Ramon Corona | 371 |
| 128 The Language of the Sword and the Work of the Good Friars (Initial ||
| Letter) | Letter) | 374 |
| 129 Bernardino de Sahagun | 129 Bernardino de Sahagun | 375 |
| 130 Las Casas | 130 Las Casas | 378 |
| 131 Vicente Riva Palacio | 131 Vicente Riva Palacio | 380 |
| 132 Francisco Sosa | 132 Francisco Sosa | 383 |
| 133 Guillermo Prieto | 133 Guillermo Prieto | 390 |
| 134 Sitting in the Zocalo {Initial Letter) | 134 Sitting in the Zocalo {Initial Letter) | 395 |
| 135 A Typical Indian Village | 135 A Typical Indian Village | 398 |
| 136 Before her Humble Cottage Home | 136 Before her Humble Cottage Home | 400 |
| 137 A Chicken Vender | 137 A Chicken Vender | 402 |
| 138 The Artist's Revenge | 138 The Artist's Revenge | 407 |
| 139 A Mountaineer | 139 A Mountaineer | 411 |
| 140 Petate, Jarana and Pottery-venders | 140 Petate, Jarana and Pottery-venders | 418 |
| 141 Debit and Credit Accounts of Servants | 141 Debit and Credit Accounts of Servants | 422, 423 |
| 142 "Your Obedient Servant" | 142 "Your Obedient Servant" | 424 |
| 143 Miguel Mondregon | 143 Miguel Mondregon | 424 |
| 144 Cradle of a Poor Baby | 144 Cradle of a Poor Baby | 426 |
| 145 A Tortilla Establishment | 145 A Tortilla Establishment | 429 |
| 146 Gregoria Quiros | 146 Gregoria Quiros | 430 |
| 147 Wash-house at the Capital | 147 Wash-house at the Capital | 432 |
| 148 Washerwomen in the Country | 148 Washerwomen in the Country | 432 |
| 149 Water carrier | 149 Water carrier | 433 |
| 150 Celestial Monopoly | 150 Celestial Monopoly | 436 |
| 151 Vicenta: "I became a doctor by my natural intelligence" | 151 Vicenta: "I became a doctor by my natural intelligence" | 439 |
| | | PAGE |
| 152 A Bunch of Graniditas (Initial Letter) | 152 A Bunch of Graniditas (Initial Letter) | 441 |
| 153 A Hay-rick | 153 A Hay-rick | 442 |
| 154 Corn-crib | 154 Corn-crib | 443 |
| 155 Casa de Maternidad | 155 Casa de Maternidad | 444 |
| 156 Street in Puebla | 156 Street in Puebla | 446 |
| 157 Street and Arcade in Puebla | 157 Street and Arcade in Puebla | 452 |
| 158 Pyramid of Cholula | 158 Pyramid of Cholula | 457 |
| 159 El Castillo, or "Hill of Flowers" | 159 El Castillo, or "Hill of Flowers" | 459 |
| 160 Pyramid or Papantla | 160 Pyramid or Papantla | 461 |
| 161 Aqueduct | 161 Aqueduct | 467 |
| 162 Scenes in the Tropics | 162 Scenes in the Tropics | 470 |
| 163 The Virgin Appearing to Juan Diego (Initial Letter) | 163 The Virgin Appearing to Juan Diego (Initial Letter) | 473 |
| 164 The Nana and the Children (Initial Letter) | 164 The Nana and the Children (Initial Letter) | 476 |
| 165 The Good Nana | 165 The Good Nana | 480 |
| 166 Listening to the Stories | 166 Listening to the Stories | 481 |
| 167 "El Pato" | 167 "El Pato" | 483 |
| 168 My Window (Initial Letter) | 168 My Window (Initial Letter) | 485 |
| 169 Carrying the Clothes Home | 169 Carrying the Clothes Home | 486 |
| 170 Potato Vender | 170 Potato Vender | 486 |
| 171 A Familiar Type | 171 A Familiar Type | 487 |
| 172 Basket Venders | 172 Basket Venders | 488 |
| 173 Indian Mother and Child | 173 Indian Mother and Child | 490 |
| 174 Venders of Cooked Sheep's Heads | 174 Venders of Cooked Sheep's Heads | 493 |
| 175 Montezuma's Culinary Artists (Initial Letter) | 175 Montezuma's Culinary Artists (Initial Letter) | 494 |
| 176 The Estiladera | 176 The Estiladera | 495 |
| 177 Kitchen at the Capital | 177 Kitchen at the Capital | 501 |
| 178 American Enterprise (Initial Letter) | 178 American Enterprise (Initial Letter) | 505 |
| 179 Interior of Mexican Episcopal Cathedral | 179 Interior of Mexican Episcopal Cathedral | 508 |
| 180 Simon Lara | 180 Simon Lara | 512 |
| 181 Gen. Henry R. Jackson | 181 Gen. Henry R. Jackson | 516 |
| 182 A Stray of Cactus (Initial Letter) | 182 A Stray of Cactus (Initial Letter) | 538 |
| 183 The Old and New Civilization | 183 The Old and New Civilization | 539 |
| 184 National Palace at the Capital | 184 National Palace at the Capital | 541 |
| 185 The City of Durango | 185 The City of Durango | 549 |
| 186 El Capitan | 186 El Capitan | 552 |
| 187 A Mexican Ploughman | 187 A Mexican Ploughman | 553 |
| 188 Adobe Houses | 188 Adobe Houses | 554 |
| 189 An American Miner | 189 An American Miner | 557 |
| 190 Basket of Fruit | 190 Basket of Fruit | 558 |
| 191 Mango and Seed | 191 Mango and Seed | 559 |
| | | PAGE |
| 192 Yellow, Black and White Zapotes | 192 Yellow, Black and White Zapotes | 560 |
| 193 Mamey and Seed | 193 Mamey and Seed | 560 |
| 194 The Tlachiquero | 194 The Tlachiquero | 562 |
| 195 A Street Shoemaker | 195 A Street Shoemaker | 563 |
| 196 "On Account of the Air" | 196 "On Account of the Air" | 569 |
| 197 Policeman on Duty | 197 Policeman on Duty | 570 |
| 198 A Company of Rurales | 198 A Company of Rurales | 571 |
| 199 Church of Sacro Monte, Amecameca | 199 Church of Sacro Monte, Amecameca | 577 |
| 200 The City of Mexico | 200 The City of Mexico | 576 |
| 201 Scene in Mexico | 201 Scene in Mexico | 582 |
| 202 The Flags of the two Republics | 202 The Flags of the two Republics | 583 |
This work was published before January 1, 1929, and is in the public domain worldwide because the author died at least 100 years ago.
Public domainPublic domainfalsefalse