# The Cutters' Practical Guide (1902)/Part 13

This work deals with the military 'dress' of British Officers. Although undated references in the text suggest this a 1902 or 1906 edition.
to the cutting and making
       :: of all kinds of :: ::
British Military Uniforms
Embracing Tunics, Frock Coats, Service Frocks, Mess Jackets, :: Overcoats, Capes, Vests, Trousers, Overalls, Pantaloons, Breeches, and Puttees. ¶ Being Part XIII. of the Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of all kinds of Garments
and author of numerous Works on the Science and Art of Cutting
AUTHOR'S PREFACE
THE recent changes in the garments worn by the officers of the British Army have affected both style and make, and have consequently created a demand for information on many topics.
The large number of details involved in the cutting and making of various garments worn by the various regiments has proved a Herculean task, and I do not hesitate to state it is the book which has cost me most worry and thought, and has given me more aching heads and sleepless nights than any work I have ever attempted. I have gone to bed with it's intricacies on my brain, and I have awoke in the morning with the same theme before me; and now, after many months' labour the work is in the hands of the trade. I trust that which has cost me much pain will prove to them great gain. I have tried to make the work thoroughly exhaustive, and I have been most generously helped by my former students, who are now engaged in the very best of trades making a speciality of this class of business. I am not at liberty to mention their names, but I can and do most gratefully acknowledge the assistance of my former pupil. Mr. J Hawkesford of the Royal Army Clothing Department, Pimlico, with whom I have had many conferences, and from whom I have received many helpful suggestions. The drawings have been made under my supervision,and, in many cases they have been sketched from the actual garment. I therefore feel confident that the result will be of value to the trade generally, and especially that part of it which devotes it's attention to military garments. Every effort has been taken to avoid mistakes, but as changes are often made, we suppose it is almost too much to hope for absolute accuracy in every detail. Still, for this we have tried, and we hope our readers will find the product helpful.
W.D.F VINCENT.
PUBLISHERS' PREFACE
In placing in the hands of the Trade yet another addition to that encyclopaedic work, THE CUTTERS' PRACTICAL GUIDE, we realize the vast extent of ground that is covered by the comprehensive term, British Tailoring; to enable the present-day tailor to fulfil the manifold requirements of his calling. The two latest volumes of the C.P.G. have dealt with what are known as speciality garments, and it is now our privilege to introduce another part, which treats of a branch of the trade that some may consider outside the beaten track, but which is one of considerable and growing importance, and one which offers splendid scope to the cutter who desires to be at once an artist and a through master of his profession.
In a work on Military Garments so much depends on absolute accuracy of detail and conformity with the not easily understandable official regulations, that it is essential, not only that a thoroughly reliable system should be used, but that the information conveyed should be verified and confirmed from all the best available sources.
We have no hesitation, in either of these respects, in commending this book as being, as near possible, everything that such a book should be. The system is the now universally approved Cutters' Practical Guide System, and the author, Mr. W.D.F.Vincent, has spared no effort to make it fit to take rank with the most successful of his previous productions. The Cutters' Practical Guide method has been adopted in the Army Clothing Depot at Pimlico, it is used by many of the leading Master Tailors in the Service, and by quite a large number of cutters in the high-class tailoring firms in the West End.
In addition to this, Mr. Vincent has had access to the official regulations, has obtained his information even in matters of the minutest of detail, at the fountain head, and has consulted several of the most expert cutters in the trades where this branch is made a speciality—whose very cordial assistance he has here much pleasure in acknowledging.
In the arrangement of this book, every care has been taken to make it both trustworthy and convenient in use. The letterpress has been carefully compared with the diagrams, and the illustrations are in all cases so placed in context with descriptions as to be perfectly easy of reference and in a measure self explanatory.
In stating, with confidence, that no such valuable work on the subject has ever before been published, we are reminded of some lines of Tennyson which seem particularly appropriate to the tailoring literature of our time, especially when we think of the difficulties which the former generations of cutters experiences in the pursuit of trade knowledge. We quote from memory, but the line are something like this:—
"Read my little fable, He who runs may read All Can grow the flower, Now all can get the seed."
Here we have seed of a very special character, gathered by one whose ripe experience makes the selection sure. It places in the hand of the student a means of self-cultivation, which, rightly used, cannot fail to bring the flowers of success in due season and will be equally valuable to the more mature professors of the art and science of cutting no matter whether this particular branch of his craft may be an occasional or a regular part of his work,
THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED.
INDEX
Cutter's Practical Guide
TO
THE CUTTING OF MILITARY GARMENTS
Introduction
The radical changes made in Military Uniforms by His Majesty the King has created a demand for information on this important subject, such has not been experienced in many years. It has, therefore, been deemed an opportune occasion for me to write a book on this phase of tailoring. At the outset it will be wise for me to state quite frankly that I am indebted to many cutters who have been engaged in this branch of the trade practically the whole of their business lives, and this work is, therefore, not merely the outcome of my own experience, but the result of many conferences I have had with military specialists, together with the outcome of many visits to, and much correspondence with the War Office.
The history of uniforms of the British Army is one that is also full of fascination, and is intimately associated with some of the most brilliant victories achieved by the force of arms. "The thin red line" has long been looked upon as the symbol of British heroism and pluck, and the beauty of the embroidered scarfs, etc., has been immortalised by Byron in his Childe Harold's Pilgrammge, in the course of which he describes the meeting of the rival armies in the Peninsular War, the Battle of Waterloo, etc.
We must, however leave it to other pens to deal with the history of military uniforms, for our business is neither to eulogise or depreciate the clothes of our soldiers. We have rather to treat of them as they are, to describe and illustrate their leading features to show how they are cut, and to offer a few suggestions on the making up of the same.
ARMY CONSTITUTION
Before we proceed to do this, however, it may be well to briefly describe the constitution of the British Army.
First, there is the General Staff, which have the control of the entire army and are responsible for the conduct of the campaign. They seldom come within the limits of the firing line, and so it is less important that their garments should be trimmed in a style to identify them as the leaders of the army. They are rather directors than leaders: their duty is to say to this man go and to the other come, and so on.
Then there are the four great branches of army, viz.: The Cavalry, or the horse soldiers; the infantry, or the foot soldiers, the Engineers, or the skilled mechanics; and the Artillery, or those who look after the guns, etc. Now, it naturally follows that the different occupations of these branches will require consideration. Whilst it is also necessary to provide different dresses for different occasions, viz., working, full dress, and mess. In addition to these branches there are various departments, such as the medicals, the veterinary, the ordinance, and the pay staffs, to be provided for, but these are more auxiliaries than constituents of the army proper. The Territorial Forces are organised in much the same way. The Yeomanry are Cavalry, and in the like manner we have Rifles and Artillerymen, and so on. Whilst their garments are based on same ideals as the uniforms of the Regular Army, yet many adaptations are necessary and we shall, therefore, have to treat of them.
OFFICERS DRESS ONLY
It will, of course, he understood that we are here treating of the dress of officers only, the ​uniform of the rank and file being provided for them by the Government, and is made for them at the Royal Army Clothing Factory, Pimlico, or by some of the various contractors, who make a speciality of this kind of dress.
The British officer is not of such an erect or square shoulder build as the members of the rank and file, the drill he puts in less exacting, and the labour he has to perform is less heavy, so that he does not develop the muscles of his shoulders or produce so much prominence of chest as those who are under him. Still, it is as well that the cutter should bear in mind that the tendency of most officers is to be more or less erect, and what naturally follows, flat in the back and prominent in the chest. and when this is the case it must be provided for in the cut. Then it has also to be borne in mind that all garments worn with a separate belt need to be cut much closer fitting in the waist than the ordinary garment, but of this we shall deal more particularly when dealing with the garments themselves.
SEALED PATTERENS
Information on any Garment worn by any kind of British Officer may be obtained by personally visiting the War Office, and there the sealed garments for nearly every rank and variety of service may be inspected. This is arranged by Government to facilitate uniformity in the garments of officers, consequently the attendant in charge will, as a rule, do all in his power to give the information necessary, and even allow a rubbing to be taken of any particular section of braiding or embroidery, and all this without fee.
In addition to this the War Office publish from time to time printed details of the regulations, and considering they are not written by tailors, they are fairly explicit, though, in some cases, the meaning is very difficult to comprehend. Particulars of the uniforms worn by Territorial Regiments may generally be obtained from the Commanding Officer of the regiment. The names of these are published in the Official Army List, published monthly by Messrs. Eyre Spottiswoode. Patterns of as few of these garments are deposited at the Royal Army Clothing Department, Grosvenor Road, Pimlico, S.W., where they may be seen by those interested. Applications to view must be made to the Chief Inspector at that establishment.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF DRESS
There are at present three distinct types of dress, the first is the full-dress, which is worn on all occasions of State or ceremony, such as appearing before His Majesty the King, or on such ceremonies as are usually looked upon as requiring full-dress.
The second is a service dress, and it is this, which has undergone so great a change, both in cut, make, and finish. This dress is worn on active service both at home and abroad, and is practically the same for all branches of the Service. The third is the mess dress, which is worn by the officers at mess or dinner, when they all dine together in barracks or elsewhere. This dress has been very greatly simplified, and is now made of practically one pattern with a few variations in detail.
In addition to these three types of dress there is the overcoat, which is of quite a distinct style to what was formerly worn and is neatly as possible the same for all services, a slight adaptation being made for mounted officers.
The garments we describe are as follows:-
* Tunic.
* Lancers' Tunic.
* Doublet.
* R.H.A Dress jacket.
* D.B. Frock Coat.
* S.B. Frock Coat.
* Mess Jackets.
* Mess Vests.
* Patrol Jackets
* Frocks
* Universal Service Frock
* Overcoats
* Infantry Trousers
* Cavalry Overalls
* Pantaloons' Cloth
* Pantaloons' Bedford Cord.
* Knickers.
RANK
The Officers of the Army differ in rank as follows:-
* Second Lieutenant is lower than Lieutenant.
* Lieutenant is lower than Captain.
* Captain is lower than Major.
* Major is lower than Lieutenant-Colonel.
* Lieutenant-Colonel is lower than Colonel.
* Colonel is lower than Brigadier-General.
* Brigadier-General is lower than Major-General.
* Major-General is lower than Lieutenant-General.
* Lieutenant-General is lower than General.
* General is lower than Field Marshal.
* Field Marshal is head of the Army.
Each of these ranks are distinguished by badges as per illustration.
These, interpreted into words, read as follows:-
* Field Marshal: Crossed batons on a wreath of laurel, with a crown above.
* General: Crossed sword and baton, with star and crown above.
* Lieutenant-General: Crossed sword and baton, and crown above
* Major-General: Crossed sword and baton with star above.
* Brigadier-General: Crossed sword and baton. ​ ​
* Colonel: Crown and two stars below.
* Lieutenant-Colonel: Crown and one star below.
* Major: Crown.
* Captain: Three stars.
* Lieutenant: Two stars.
* Second Lieutenant: One star.
The official regulations respecting these badges of rank are as follows:—
Badges of rank, except when otherwise ordered, will be worn on all shoulder cords and shoulder straps. They will be in silver embroidery on gold shoulder cords, and gold-laced shoulder straps, and gilt or gilding metal on plain cloth shoulder straps. In Rifle Regiments they will he in bronze. The crossed sword is 2 inches full and the baton ⅛ inch shorter. The crowns when laid on shoulder cords or straps are 1 inch broad and ⅞ inch in height; the stars are 1 inch between opposite points.
The batons forming part of the Field-Marshal's badges will be in embroidery and crimson velvet.
General Officers badges are worn in pairs, point of sword to the front and edge of blade outwards or towards the arm.
Regimental Officers having Brevet Rank wear the badges of their army rank; Departmental Officer having honorary rank, the badges of that rank; and Departmental Officers not having honorary rank, the badges of the combatant grade with which they rank.
RANK BADGES FOR NON-COMMISSIONED OFFICERS.
(See Plate of illustrations.)
Although this book only deals with the uniform worn by Commissioned Officers, yet we have thought it well to give some illustrations of the rank badges used to distinguish the Non-Commissioned Officers, thinking they may prove of service to our readers.
The badge ranks for
CAVALRY
are arranged in the following order:—Sergeant-Major, Troop Sergeant-Major, Quarter-Master-Sergeant, Sergeant, Corporal, Farrier-Sergeant, Corporal-Farrier, Trumpet-Major, Trumpeter, Rough Rider. Most of these badge marks are worked in gold lace or thread, with here and there a touch of red, as, for instance, in the horseshoe for the Farrier. The holes are in red, and as nearly all Cavalry tunics are made from blue cloth, this helps to show up the design.
ENGINEERS.
The Engineers, on the other hand, generally wear red tunics, and here again, the badge ranks are worked with gold lace or braid, but in the case of the Bugle-Major, where flags form a part of the ornament, a little blue is inserted. The badge ranks for the Engineers are arranged in the following order: Sergeant-Major, Troop Sergeant-Major, Sergeant, Quarter-Master Sergeant, Corporal, Lance-Corporal, Bugle-Major, Farrier-Major, Sergeant-Wheeler, Wheeler, Corps of Ordnance Artificers, Shooting Prize.
INFANTRY.
Infantry tunics are generally made from red cloth, and for the most part they have the badges worked in gold lace or thread; there are some few badge marks, however, which are made of white, such as the Corporal and Lance-Corporal, Bandsman, and Pioneer, the rest are worked in gold. As placed on this Plate, they are arranged in the following order: Sergeant-Major, Colour-Sergeant, Quarter-Master Sergeant, Musketry-Instructor, Sergeant, Corporal, Lance-Corporal, Band-Sergeant, Bondsman, Sergeant-Pioneer, Pioneer, and Drum-Major.
In the case of the badge for the Colour-Sergeant, where the flag forms the leading part of the design, blue is worked in as well as red, so as to produce the Union Jack.
ARTILLERY.
Artillery badges are for the most part worked with gold lace on blue, and are arranged in the following order:—Master Gunner (1st class), Master Gunner (2nd class), Master Gunner (3rd class), Battery Sergeant-Major, Quarter-Master-Sergeant, Sergeant, Corporal, Bombardier, Rough Rider, and Farrier. We have illustrated one or two badges of a general character. For instance, we have given a series of good conduct badges; that for the non-commissioned officer is of gold lace on blue cloth, that for the Private in the Cavalry, Artillery, and Engineers of yellow braid on blue cloth, that for the Private in the Infantry white braid on red cloth, whilst the badge for the Army Hospital Corps is a cross of red cloth on a white ground and placed on blue cloth.
Those badges indicated by wavy lines are made of gold lace, and those which are left plain are for the most part made from braid or worsted, the exception being Corporal and Lance-Corporal of the Engineers and Corporal and Bombardier of the Artillery, which are of gold. All the ornaments are worked in gold except that for Infantry Pioneer, which is of worsted.
AIGUILETTES.
Whilst writing of these it may be well to refer to the Aiguilette. The Staff Aiguilette is worn by those officers only who are serving on the Headquarter, General, and Personal Staff, and only by them when performing Staff duties. The following are the official regulations:—
Regimental Badges.
Cord ¼-inch gold and red Oriss basket, with plait and cord loop in front and same at back the plait standing in plain cord with gilt metal tags. The plaits and cords, front and back, are joined together by a short scarlet cloth strap, in which is worked a button hole. The aiguilette is attached to the shoulder of the tunic or frock coat by a button placed under the outer end of the shoulder cord. The long cord is looped up on the top or front cord, the front cord and the short mid long plaits are fastened together, and a small gold braid loop is fixed thereon to attach to the top button of the tunic and frock coat on the latter on the side on which the aiguilette is worn. The arm is passed between the front plait and cord, and the back or long plait and cord.
The aiguilette is worn on the right shoulder by all Officers of the Headquarters Staff of the Army and by the Personal Staff of the Governor-General of Canada and Colonial Governors, and on the left shoulder by other Staff Officers entitled to wear it.
Another style of aiguilette is worn by Field-Marshals and the Personal Staff of the King and Royal Family, the details of which are that it is made of gold wire cord ¼ inch in diameter, with gilt embossed tags, and it is worn on the right shoulder.
In addition to these badges there are the special regimental devices worn on the collars of tunics, the lapels of Mess Jackets. There is such a huge variety of these that we must content ourselves with a few specimens, representing the various branches of the army.
The same remark applies to the buttons used in military garments, though it is well to add that all Military Buttons, with the exception of vest buttons are die struck, the vest buttons are mounted.
In addition to these marks of distinction there is also a little difference made in lengths of skirts, the official regulations being as follows:—
DEPTH OF SKIRTS.
The skirts of tunics for officers 5 feet 9 inches in height will be:—
For Field-Marshals, General Officers, and Colonels on the Staff, Royal Artillery, Royal Engineers, Foot Guards, Infantry Regiments, ​Army Service Corps, Royal Army Medical Corps, and Departments generally—10 inches. For Staff, Cavalry, and Rifle Regiments—9 inches.
The proportionate variation for each inch of difference in height is about ⅛ inch in the skirts of tunics.
The skirts of frock coats reach to the knees.
SASHES
The following are the regulations for Sashes and Sword Belts: -
All Sashes are now worn around the waist, as per Special Army Order for June 1902.
Sashes are of such length that the ends of the tassels shall just reach the bottom of the skirt of the tunic.
Sword belts, other than pattern known as the "Sam Browne" belt are worn as follows:—
Over the Tunic (or Doublet) by the Personal Staff of the Sovereign and Royal Family, and by officers of all arms except by Field Marshalls, General Officers, Colonels on the staff, Equerries to the Royal Family, Officers of Cavalry of the Line, Mounted Officers of Royal Artillery, and Rifle Regiments.
Over the blue frock coat and under patrol jackets and frocks.
The Web belt is worn by Officers of all branches of the Service who wear the sword belt under the tunic, patrol jacket or frock. Slings are made with studs and holes, so that they can be removed from the belt if required.
It is not our intention to touch on the matter of caps and other accoutrements, as full information on these can be obtained from the War Office Regulation Book, or from those houses who make a speciality of supplying such goods.
ESTIMATE OF PRICES
The following estimate of prices for a Second Lieutenants garments has been obtained from the Army and Navy Stores, and will supply our reader with some idea of the prices charged by a firm who do this class of trade well, and at the same time cut prices rather fine. The fact that they probably do as large a military trade as any firm in London should make this estimate a valuable one, and will serve as a guide for our readers to work to.
| | £ | s. | d. |
| Tunic, Badges extra | 7 | 0 | 0 |
| Mess Jacket, Badges extra from | 4 | 4 | 0 |
| Mess vest | 1 | 4 | 6 |
| Mess Overalls | 1 | 16 | 0 |
| Frock Coat, Badges extra | 5 | 10 | 0 |
| Undress Overalls | 1 | 16 | 0 |
| Great Coat | 4 | 4 | 0 |
| Service Jacket, Badges extra | 2 | 10 | 0 |
| Knickers, Breeches | 1 | 10 | 0 |
| Helmet | 2 | 9 | 0 |
| Blue Forage Cap, Badge extra | 0 | 17 | 6 |
| Service Forage Cap, complete | 0 | 15 | 6 |
| Waist Sash | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| Web Belt and Sword Sling | 1 | 10 | 0 |
| Dress Sword Knot | 0 | 10 | 6 |
| Sword | 3 | 7 | 6 |
| Sword Bag | 0 | 10 | 6 |
| Sword Knot, Brown | 0 | 2 | 6 |
| "Sam Browne" Belt | 1 | 15 | 0 |
| "Sam Browne" Scabbard | 0 | 12 | 6 |
| Two Pairs Brown Gloves | 0 | 8 | 6 |
| One Pair White Gloves | 0 | 3 | 6 |
| Whistle and Lanyard | 0 | 3 | 8 |
| Spat Puttees Per Pair | 0 | 9 | 6 |
| Cap Badges |
| Collar Badges |
| Uniform Case | 1 | 15 | 0 |
FIELD SERVICE UNIFORM
| | £ | s. | d. |
| Khaki Serge Patrol | 2 | 10 | 0 |
| Khaki Serge Overalls, with footstraps | 1 | 0 | 0 |
| Khaki Drill Patrol | 1 | 12 | 0 |
| Khaki Drill Overalls, with footstraps | 0 | 13 | 6 |
| Bedford Cord Pantaloons, strapped Buckskin | 2 | 12 | 6 |
| Bedford Cord Breeches, strapped Buckskin | 2 | 17 | 6 |
| Khaki Clavin Cord Breeches, strapped same material | 1 | 12 | 6 |
| Khaki Great Coat | 3 | 15 | 0 |
| Khaki "British Warm" Great Coat, lined serge | 3 | 0 | 0 |
| Puttees, Blue or Khaki, per pair from | 0 | 3 | 0 |
| Pigskin Putee Leggings per pair | 1 | 1 | 0 |
| Regulation Khaki Helmet and purgi | 1 | 1 | 0 |
| Khaki felt Slouch Hat (Badge extra) | 0 | 10 | 6 |
| Khaki Serge Fatigue Cap, plain buttons | 0 | 10 | 6 |
| Khaki Serge Staff Forage Cap with peak | 0 | 13 | 6 |
| "Sam Browne" Belt, Scabbard and Knot, complete | 2 | 10 | 0 |
| Silk Revolver Lnayard | 0 | 3 | 6 |
| Silk Whistle Lanyard | 0 | 1 | 0 |
| Khaki Haversack | 0 | 4 | 6 |
| Adjustable Spine Protector | 0 | 7 | 6 |
| Moveable Gorget Patches, Generals, per pair | 0 | 7 | 0 |
| Moveable Gorget Patches, Staff and Departmental, per pair | 0 | 6 | 0 |
| Moveable Gorget Patches, Civil Medical, per pair | 0 | 4 | 0 |
NEW SERVICE UNIFORM
(1902 Patterns)
| | £ | s. | d. |
| Service Jacket, according to rank from | 2 | 10 | 0 |
| Service Knicker Breeches | 1 | 10 | 0 |
| Service Pantaloons, Strapped Buckskin | 2 | 12 | 6 |
| Service Breeches, Strapped Buckskin | 2 | 17 | 6 |
| Service Overalls, with footstraps | 1 | 0 | 0 |
| Service Cap and badge | 0 | 15 | 6 |
| Service Great Coat | 4 | 4 | 0 |
| Service Spat Puttees, per pair | 0 | 9 | 0 |
N.B.—All badges and distinctive marks on above coats charged extra.
MEASURING
The system described in the following pages is one that is especially adapted to the production of military garments, as may be gathered from the fact that it has been adopted by the authorities at Pimlico, for the instruction of those that pass through the cutting school, with a view of becoming master tailors, and is also used in some of the best military houses in the West End. It is based on the principles of direct measurement, which, in our opinion, is the safest to use for all kinds of customers, and especially so for those who are at all disproportionate, The measures may be taken with accuracy and speed after a very little practice, and in order to make the principle of these measurements plane we have prepared the accompanying figures: The Measures we advise are as follows:— Chest, waist, hips, depth of scye, length to waist, full length, width across back, continue to elbow, continue to cuff, neck, front shoulder,over shoulder, across chest, and height of neck. The only measures we need specially refer to, are the depth of scye, the front shoulder, and over shoulder and the cross chest.
| Fig 1. | Fig 2. |
| Fig 1. | Fig. 2. |
To find the scye, make a mark or put in a pin on the centre of back level with the bottom of scye; there are various methods of obtaining this, (1) Take the square, bring it up to the armpit,make a mark at the back scye, now remove the square, place it across the back level with this mark and so get point desired. (2) Place tape over neck, saddle fashion, bring it back under the arms to centre of back, see that it is level and so obtain mark. Either method will produce good results. Measure from nape of neck A, Fig. 1, to B.
Front Shoulder.—Measure from A, Fig. 1, by D to E, which is level of bottom of scye in front of arm.
Over Shoulder.—Measure from B, Fig. 1, over shoulder at C to E, Fig. 1.
Across Chest.—Measure from F, Fig. 2, to front of scye on opposite side G.
Height of neck measures from A. Fig 1, by H, Fig. 2, to a point anywhere about the region of 1, note the quantity, fix the tape and measure up to the collar seam at J.
The other measurements are taken as usual.
An average scale of measurements for the proportionate figure is as follows:—
| Chest. | Waist. | Scye Depth. | Natural Waist. | Across Back. | Full Length Sleeve. | Across Chest. | Front Shoulder. | Over Shoulder. |
| 34 | 30 | 8⅝ | 16½ | 6⅞ | 31 | 7⅝ | 12 | 16¼ |
| 36 | 32 | 9 | 17 | 7¼ | 32 | 8 | 12½ | 17 |
| 38 | 34 | 9⅜ | 17¼ | 7⅝ | 33 | 8½ | 13 | 3|4 |
| 40 | 37 | 9¾ | 13¾ | 8 | 33½ | 9 | 13½ | 18½ |
| 42 | 39½ | 10⅛ | 18 | 8⅜ | 33½ | 9½ | 14 | 19¼ |
| 44 | 42 | 10½ | 18¼ | 8¾ | 34 | 10 | 14½ | 20 |
| 46 | 46 | 10¾ | 18½ | 9 | 34 | 10½ | 15¼ | 21 |
| 48 | 50 | 11 | 18½ | 9¼ | 34 | 11 | 16 | 22 |
| 50 | 54 | 11¼ | 18½ | 9½ | 34 | 11½ | 16¾ | 23 |
Here is the scale used at Pimlico:—
| Breast. | Waist. | Depth of Scye. | Natural Waist. | Front Shoulder. | Over shoulder. | Collar. | Height. |
| 33 | 29 | 8⅛ | 16 | 11¾ | 16 | 15 | 5ft. 4in. |
| 35 | 29 | 8⅜ | 16 | 12½ | 16⅝ | 15 | 5ft. 5in. |
| 37 | 30 | 8⅝ | 16½ | 12¾ | 17⅜ | 16 | 5ft. 6in. |
| 39 | 34 | 8⅞ | 16½ | 13¼ | 18⅛ | 16½ | 5ft. 7in. |
| 41 | 36 | 9⅛ | 17 | 13¾ | 18⅞ | 17 | 5ft. 8in. |
| 43 | 38 | 9½ | 17¼ | 14¼ | 19⅝ | 17½ | 5ft. 9in. |
| 45 | 40 | 9¾ | 17¼ | 14¼ | 20⅜ | 18 | 5ft. 10in. |
The latter is based on the assumption that the military figure is decidedly erect. This is undoubtedly the fact with the rank and file, but those who who are constantly engaged in the military trade for officers assure me that in the majority of cases there is only the slightest variation in the attitude or form of the British Officer from the well-built English gentleman.
The following useful hints have been issued by the War Office on the
CARE AND PRESERVATION OF UNIFORM.
Articles of uniform liable to be moth eaten should be unfolded at intervals and well beaten ​and brushed in the open air. Russia leather parings, powdered camphor, naphtaline, carbolised paper, or turpentine sprinkled on brown paper, or on the garments, are good for the prevention of moth, and one or another of these preventatives should be placed amongst articles of uniform which are to be packed away for any time.
Before being packed away, gold lace, braid, cord or buttons on garments, should be covered with tissue paper, and then placed in tin lined air-tight cases. Care must be taken to use paper that is thoroughly dry. For the prevention of moth, the garments should be well aired and brushed before being packed.
GOLD LACE
Gold trimmings and gold lace that have become slightly tarnished can be cleaned with a mixture of cream of tartar and dry bread rubbed up very fine, applied in a dry state, and brushed lightly with a clean soft brush.
Another plan of cleaning tarnished gold lace is to apply turkey rhubarb with a soft brush. If it is dirty it should be dipped in a solution of potassium, but if this is used special care should be taken of it, as it is a strong poison.
SILVER LACE
To clean silver lace, wet it with plain magnesia applied with a soft brush.
REMOVING STAINS FROM SCARLET TUNICS OR FROCKS
In many cases stains may be removed by the part affected being rubbed with dry pipeclay and then well brushed with a clean brush. Should this fail to remove them the following mixture may be tried:—
* ⅓ ounce of salts of sorrel to ½ pint of boiling water.
* ⅓ ounce of cream of tartar to ½ pint of cold water
Each solution should be kept in a separate flat vessel.
These quantities will be sufficient to clean two or three garments.
The garment which requires cleaning should first be well beaten and brushed and a perfectly clean hard brush should be used in applying the solutions.
The solutions should be applied alternately, commencing with the salts of sorrel, until the garment has been washed all over, and all the stains removed.
If the weather permits, the cleaned garments should be hung up to dry; If not they should be hung in a dry place, but not near fires or stoves.
Another plan of cleaning scarlet cloth is to dissolve a pennyworth of salts of lemon in warm water with half a lemon sliced in addition. Put this on with a soft brush and finish by rubbing it with a piece of clean scarlet cloth.
FULL DRESS GARMENTS
Starting with full dress, the principal garment which claims are attention is the Tunic, together with its variations, the Highland Doublet, the Lancers' Tunic, and the R.H.A. Dress Jacket. The body part for most of these is the same, as will be seen by the diagram on succeeding pages, the back is cut on the crease, the shoulder seam is cut decidedly high, a fair amount of round is given to the side body, the waist seam is placed exactly at the natural waist, and ample room is given to the chest in all cases. We will, however, describe the system for cutting this when we deal with the diagrams; at the present stage we will describe how tunics are made for the different ranks.
TUNIC FOR FIELD MARSHALL
This is made of scarlet cloth with collar and cuffs of blue cloth; gold embroidery is placed on the collar and cuffs; the cuffs are 3 inches deep, and the gold embroidery is 2¼ deep round the top.
A flap is put on each sleeve, 6½ inches deep and 2 inches wide between the point; it is made of scarlet cloth embroidered in gold.
TUNIC FOR GENERAL, LIEUTENANT-GENERAL, MAJOR-GENERAL AND BRIGADIER-GENERAL
This Tunic is made of scarlet cloth, with collar and cuffs of blue cloth; gold embroidery is put on the collar and cuffs, the cuffs are made 3 inches, the gold embroidery being 2¾ inches deep round the top. Flaps of scarlet cloth are put on each sleeve 6½ inches deep and 2 inches wide between the points; this is embroidered in gold; a sword flap is put at the hack of each skirt ½ inch shorter than the skirt and 3¼ inches wide at the bottom point. There are 8 buttons down the from, 3 on each flap and 2 at the waist behind. White cloth edging $^3$⁄$_{16}$ wide is put down the front, round the collar, on the flaps, cuffs, and skirt. Shoulder cords of gold plaited wire basket cord $^3$⁄$_{16}$ inch in diameter, with a small gimp down centre. The width of the strap of the shoulder cord is 2¼ inches, and at the end a small 4-inch wing.
An eyelet hole is placed at the end next to the collar for a small gilt button: the underside of the cord is lined with scarlet cloth and has a gilt or gilded metal fastening below.
TUNIC FOR COLONEL ON THE STAFF AND SUBSTANTIVE COLONEL
This is made of scarlet cloth with collar and cuffs of blue cloth; the collar is laced round the top and bottom with ⅝ inch lace, round the cuff 3 inches deep with two row of ⅝ inch lace round the top, showing ⅛ inch of blue cloth between the bars.
A flap of scarlet cloth is placed on each sleeve 6 inches long, and 2½ inches wide at the point; this is edged with lace ⅝ inch wide. A sword flap is put at the back of each skirt, reaching to within ½ inch of the bottom. The flaps are made ½ inch wide at the top, 1½ inches at the centre point, and 2¼ at the bottom. A bar of ⅝ lace from the centre of the waist to the bottom of the skirt, 8 buttons down the front, 3 on each flap, the top button on the flap behind being at the waist. The front, collar, cuffs, flaps, and bar of lace, and the skirts are edged with white cloth $^3$⁄$_{16}$ inch wide. The Tunic is lined with white, round the waist a hand of white leather, 2 inches wide, fastening with 2 hooks and eyes, twisted round gold shoulder cords of the universal pattern, lined with scarlet and a small button at the top.
TUNIC FOR A MILLITARY ATTACHE
Tunic for Military Attaché is same as for Colonel on the Staff with the Staff aiguilette and forage cap.
TUNIC FOR OFFICERS UNDER THE RANK OF COLONEL
Tunic fur these Officers is same as Colonel on the Staff, only they have one bar of lace on the collar and cuffs.
TUNIC FOR AIDE-DE-CAMP TO THE KING
This is made of scarlet cloth with collar and cults of blue cloth; the skirt is cut 12 inches deep for an Officer 5 feet 9 inches in height, with a proportionate variation for any difference in height. On each side in front there are 8 straight loops of Mohair cord—which are not pierced through the cloth, but carried to the front—which is drawn in, a regulation which has been made so that the garment may be available for use on promotion; these loops are 4 inches long below the waist, and 5 inches above the waist,
on the left side. it fastens down the front with hooks and eyes, but buttons are plugged down the left side (see page 10). A gold embroidered frog drop loop is placed on each side of the collar, a round cuff 3 inches deep, and-a scarlet flap is placed on each sleeve with three embroidered loops and buttons. The length of the loop is to be 1¾ inches, exclusive of the drop.
A sword flap of scarlet cloth is placed on the back of each skirt, to inches long and 2 wide, with two loops and buttons similar to those on the sleeve.
Two buttons on the waist behind; an edging of white cloth, ¼ inch wide. is put round the collar, cuffs, flaps, and back skirt.
The skirts are lined with white, and an inside breast pocket is pot on the left side, and pockets are put inside each skirt behind. The front of this Tunic is fastened with hooks and eyes.
TUNIC FOR EQUERRY TO THE KING
This is practically the same as for the Aide-de-Camp, but there are four embroidered loops and buttons on the sleeves.
CAVALRY TUNICS
The Cavalry Tunic of the 1st Life Guards is made of scarlet cloth, with blue velvet collar cuffs, and edging with stitched edges.
The tunic for the 2nd Life Guards is made of scarlet cloth, but has blue velvet collar and cuffs, and edging with stitched edges.
Buttons are placed in the centre of the embroidery, and three loops of embroidery of the same pattern are placed on the back skirt.
​There are 9 Buttons down the front, 2 at the waist behind. The front of the skirt is rounded and it is lined with blue cassimere in the 1st Life guards; scarlet Italian in the 2nd Life guards; scarlet cassimere in the Royal Horse Guards. A Gold cord aiguillette, with engraved gilt tags, is worn on the right shoulder; a plaited gold cord on top of the shoulder.
A strip of embroidery ½ inch is placed round the top of the collar and cuffs of the Tunics worn by the Field Officers.
TUNICS FOR DRAGOON GUARDS AND DRAGOONS
These are made of scarlet cloth and cuffs of the colour of the regulation facing. These are as follows:- The 1st (King's Own), the 3rd (Prince of Wales'), 4th (Royal Irish), 5th (Princess Charlotte of Wales'), 7th Dragoon Guards (Queen's Bays), 1st Royal, 2nd Royal, Scotch Greys, and 6th Iniskillings, of cloth.
The Collar ornamented with ¾ inch lace, with the exception of the 2nd Dragoon Guards (Queen's Bays) and 1st Royal Dragoons, which have 1 inch.
Round the top of collar and down the front only for Officers of all ranks.
The cuffs are made 2 inches deep at the point 1¼ at the back edge, with round back gold cord, forming a single Austrian knot 7¾ inches deep:
8 buttons are placed up the front and 2 at the waist behind; a sword flap of scarlet cloth is placed at the back of the skirt, edged with round back gold cord and traced inside and out with gold Russia braid. The front is edged with the same material and colours as facings of the skirt are lined with white, plaited gold shoulder cord lined with scarlet and small button at the top.
TUNICS FOR 6th DRAGOON GUARDS
Tunic is made from blue cloth, the top and bottom of the collar has round back gold cord all round, pointed cuffs, are of white cloth, the collar is laced with cord like that for other Dragoon Guards; cuffs for all ranks are trimmed with a single Austrian knot, and a tracing of plan braid. The Austrian knot is about 7½ inches deep.
There are 8 buttons placed up the front and 2 at the back of the waist; a sword flap is placed on the back of each skirt; it is trimmed with 3 buttons and edged with round back gold cord, plaited flat gold shoulder cord lined with blue and a small button at the top.
HUSSAR'S TUNIC
This is made of blue cloth and edged all round with gold chain gimp, on each side of the breast, ​six loops of gold chain gimp with caps and drops, fastened with gold work olivets, on each back seam a double line of the same gimp forming three eyes at the top, passing under a netted cap at the waist and terminating with an Austrian knot right to the bottom of the skirt, a tracing of gold braid all round the gimp, and Austrian knot of gold chain gimp is placed on each sleeve, reaching up to 8 inches from the bottom of the cuffs; the skirt is rounded off in the front and closed behind, and lined with black; shoulder cords of plaited gold chain gimp lined with blue, a small button at the top. The collar is of blue except for the 13th which is white, and the 3rd, which is red, there is a ¾ inch gold lace on top and down end of front collar. Gold chain gimp on the collar seam
MILIITARY TUNIC SYSTEM
Draw Line 1 G, make 1 to O 1 inch from O to F, depth of scye as taken on customer, O to G depth of scye as taken on customer.
O to E is ½ depth of scye plus ½ inch, square line across from 1 E F G, from O to E ½ depth of scye plus ½ inch, square lines across from 1 E F G. This must be done quite straight as the back is taken out on the crease. From 1 to A is $^1$⁄$_6$ of the neck measure plus ¼ inch, and from this point square up to B $^1$⁄$_6$ of the breast plus 1 inch.
From B mark out to C, from ¾ inch to 1 inch, and by these points shape back scye from C to D, and shoulder seam from C to A, and back neck from O to A. Draw line from D to G and hollow the side seam of back at I about ¾ inch , the width of the back from H to Q is made equal to one eighteenth of the breast, thus 2 inches for a 36 size
THE SKIRT
Draw line from X to V straight, measure down from X to *Z one twelfth of the seat plus 1 inch and draw line V to AA at right angles to V Z, add on ¾ inch of round at the back, and get the spring of the front by measuring down from V to Y one-twelfth of the seat minus 1 inch, draw line from X to BB at right angles to *Y. It will be seen that the left edge is not so advanced as the right edge.
The extra width of the button stand necessitates the extra width of skirt on the right side, hollow waist seam $^1$⁄$_4$ inch and complete as diagram.
We give the illustration of the back skirt, which is cut separately. Draw line from H to CC, make H to Q 2 inches. CC to DD 2½ inches add on ½ inch for seams above H Q, and allow ½ inch for side pleat beyond Q. DD.
THE SLEEVE
Military Sleeves are pitched at the top of side seam behind and ¾ inch above the level of scye in front. The sleeve must of course be made to fit the scye. Draw line O to J, O to A is the width of scye, which may be found by deducting the width of the back from ¼ to K. O to 1¼ is 1¼ inches always, 1¼ to C is the size of the top scye between the two pitches, and found by measuring from D to C and M to forearm pitch. O to B is ½ the distance from 1¼ to C. Add on ¾ inch of round at L and complete sleeve head as illustrated. Measure off the length of sleeve to elbow and cuff, make the width of cuff from F to H ¼ of the breast and hollow it at the forearm from F to G 1 inch. Form I to to K is made about $^1$⁄$_6$ of the breast. J to I may be made 1½ inches of the run of the cuff can be found by squaring at H K. The underside sleeve is found by measuring around the bottom of the scye from K J to D, and measure across from A to D of sleeve. A to E is about ⅓ of 1¼ D, the underside sleeve may be drawn by these points, continue down from D to H and complete sleeve as shown. This sleeve applies to all ordinary garments.
TUNIC FOR CORPULENT FIGURE
Corpulent figures vary from the normal, particularly in the difference of proportion of the shoulders to the breast and waist measures, or, in other words, when a figure begins to develop corpulency the size of the shoulders does not increase in the same ratio as the breast and waist.
to be drafted out by the breast measure a working scale of 45 inches should be taken for the shoulder quantities.
The diagram is produced as follows:—
Square lines at right angles to A. From A to O is 1 inch.
O is the starting point for measuring length of back.
O to 10½ is depth of scye, O to 18½ natural waist, O to 28½ the full length of the tunic.
Mark in ½ inch at 18, and draw line for centre of back.
O to 5¾ is half depth of scye and ½ inch.
Square line across from 5¾ , 10½, 18 and 28½
Mark off at A one sixth of the neck and ¼ inch.
Square up from width of back one-sixth of breast and 1 inch.
​Draw Back scye and shoulder seam, and go up and out half an inch at neck point.
The width of the back part of the waist line is 2½ inches. Draw a line from the top of side-seam to 18, and hollow sideseam of back part 1 inch.
The underarm seam is fixed at ½of breast measure, and the round of sidebody is shaped in harmony with the back part; 1½ inches suppression between back and sidebody, and ½inch on each side of the construction line at the underarm seam.
From 10½ to the front scye is two-thirds of the working scale 45, equal to 15 inches from the centre of the back. Extend line across to breast size 24, and add 2½ for making up (26½).
Mark up from 26½to B one sixth of the disproportion. A proportionate military figure is 5 inches smaller waist then chest, thus 48 b., 43 w., which gives five-sixths of an inch from 26½} to B.
Draw a new line breast line from ⅔ to B.
Apply the front shoulder measure from ⅔ to E, after deducting the quantity C to D.
E to H is the same width as back shoulder less ½ inch.
Hollow the scye ½ or ⅜ inch in in front of line drawn from ⅔. Measure out from E $^1$⁄$_6$ of neck measure, and mark down $^1$⁄$_6$ and ½ inch extra for a figure of this type.
Draw the centre line to B.
Make up the size of the waist 24 and 1 inch.
Add ⅝ inch for button-hole side all the way down the front.
Drop the forepart 1 inch below the original waist line 18, 24 plus 1.
The waist seam is hollowed ½ inch.
THE SKIRT
Draw a straight line from the bottom of the forepart. Hollow line ¼ inch immediately in front of the underarm seam.
In order to obtain the spring at the back of skirt mark down one-sixth of the breast scale and 1 inch, and draw line at right angles to K N.
The spring at the front of the skirt is obtained by marking down from N to L one-sixth less 1 inch, and square lines at right angles to L M. All divisions on this diagram are reckoned of the half breast.
GENERAL REMARKS
The waist length of all Tunics should be cut to the nett measure, as no such thing as a "fashion waist" exists in garments designed to be worn with a tight-fitting belt. In any case, it is better to cut the length of waist ½ inch too short than too long.
A stand of ⅝ inch is left on down the left forepart for the button holes, but the button-stand should always be seamed on down the right forepart so as to ensure a snug fit down the front edge.
The sleeve for a figure of this description should be cut as to have slightly backward hang.
HINTS ON MAKING UP TUNICS
A very great deal of the success of military garments depends upon the employment of skilled workmen, and there is no branch of tailoring in which a speciality shows off to so much advantage as in the making of military garments. It will be well for the cutter to start with the knowledge of the ideal fit required.
finished, the waist should measure from button to button-hole, the same size as measure taken on the customer, or at most ¼ inch or ½ inch more.
We now proceed to deal with the different varieties of the Tunic.
LANCERS TUNIC.
LANCERS' TUNIC.
The diagram is drafted to the following measures:—-Depth of scye, 8¼; natural waist, 16; length of skirt, 9; neck, 15¾; back, 7; sleeve, 32; breast, 36; waist, 31
Square the line $^1$⁄$_6$ N, 1 and 16.
Mark down one inch for nape of neck.
1 to 8¼ is the depth of scye.
1 to 16 is the length of natural waist, and a quarter inch added for seam.
Mark in one inch at natural waist and draw back lines.
Find the line for width of brick by marking down from 1 half depth of scye and half inch.
Mark off width of back 7, plus ¼ inch, and find ​shoulder point by squaring up one-sixth of scale and coming out one inch.
Mark off back neck indicated on diagram by $^1$⁄$_6$ N, or one-sixth of the total size of the neck. The shoulder line is marked a quarter inch above line, so as to allow for seam.
Join neck point and shoulder point.
Draw construction line from top of side-seam of 16.
Mark off width of back on the waist line 1½inches), and form side seam by curving it about two inches from construction line.
Then mark out from the back seam opposite, 8¼ half of the scale, in order to find the width of sidebody; continue to ⅔ for front of scye, and to 20½ for full measure. This last quantity is half the breast and 2½ inches.
The neck point and over-shoulder quantities are obtained in the ordinary way.
THE GORGE
Is found by placing one arm of the square resting on 20½ and the X; this latter point being fixed at one-third of the half neck from the neck point. The distance from the neck point to the bottom of the gorge is also one-third of the half neck.
The amount of suppression between the back and side body is 1½ inches and, the same amount is taken out at the underarm seam as shown on the diagram. The amount allowed over the half waist for marking up is one inch; it is unnecessary to allow more than that on account of a girdle 2½ inches in width being worn round the waist.
THE PLASTRON
Indicated by the white part of the diagram, is arranged so that the top buttons are one inch ​from the neck points and shoulder points on each side, while the width at the waist is 2¾
The skirt is found by measuring the side body, forepart, and plastron, and then drawing a straight line. The run of the back skirt is obtained by marking down at front one-third of scale and one inch, and a round of half inch allowed for working up. The run of the front, which requires less spring, is found by marking down at back one-third of scale, less one inch. The waist seam is hollowed one inch, and the bottom rounded to correspond. The skirt, when made up, should measure nine inches for a man 5ft. 8in., and increase one-eight of an inch for every inch in the height of the figure. The slash is placed on the centre of the skirt—that is, showing an equal amount of skirt at top and bottom, and the position is one inch from the back pleat. The size of the slash is 7 inches long, and 2½ wide
The Plastron is worn by the 5th, 9th, 12th 16th, 17th, and 21st Lancers. Great skill and care is required in order to make the foreparts properly, so that the Tunic could button to the right or left as required.
TUNIC FOR ROYAL FIELD AND GARRISON ARTILLERY.
These are made of blue cloth with a collar of scarlet cloth, the collar and sleeves are laced and a grenade is placed at each end of the collar. The skirt is cut square in front and left open behind, with a blue cloth flap at the back of each skirt.
These flaps are edged with round gold cord and traced inside with gold Russia braid.
The skirts are lined with black, with scarlet cloth edging down the front, and at the opening behind. There are nine buttons placed down the front, two at the back of
the waist, and three on each sword flap. Plaited gold wire shoulder cord, lined with blue, and a small button of regimental pattern at the top.
TUNIC FOR ROYAL ENGINEERS.
These are made of scarlet cloth, with cuffs, collars, and edging all round of garter blue velvet. The collar is edged round the top and down the front with round back gold cord; at each end of the collar a grenade is placed 2½ inches in length, embroidered in silver; cuffs for all ranks are pointed and ornamented with an Austrian knot, a round back gold cord on each sleeve, extending to 8 inches from the bottom of the cuff.
There are nine buttons placed up the front and two at the waist behind; the skirt is rounded at the front and closed behind with a pleat at each side. It is lined with white. The front skirts are edged with garter blue velvet. Treble twisted round brick gold shoulder cord lined with scarlet, a small button of regimental pattern at the top.
INFANTRY TUNICS.
l.—Foot Guards
These are made of scarlet cloth, with collar and cuffs of blue cloth; the collar is embroidered
A flap of blue cloth is placed on each sleeve, 6 inches long at the seam, 6¾ at the point, 2¾ at wide at the narrowest part, and at the point, 3½ bottom, 3¼ middle, 3¾ at the top. A flap of scarlet cloth at the top of each skirt, reaching to within ½ inch of the bottom of the skirt, two buttons at the waist behind about 3 inches apart; the front, collar and cuffs, and flaps are edged with white cloth ¼ inch wide.
The skirts are lined with white. Blue cloth shoulder straps, with two rows of pearl embroidery
extending to the base, a small button at the top. Grenadier Guards have a grenade at each end of the collar, nine buttons at equal distances, and four bars of embroidery at equal distances on each skirt and sleeve flap.
The Coldstreams have a star of the Order of the Garter at each end of the collar, ten buttons
in front, placed two and two, and four bars of embroidery, two and two on each skirt and sleeve flap.
Scots Guards have a thistle at each end of the collar, nine buttons in front, placed three and three, and three bars of embroidery at equal distance, on each skirt and sleeve flap.
Field Officers and Captains have embroidery round bottom of the collar, and round the skirt and flap, and a second bar of embroidery round the cuff.
The Tunic of the Irish Guards is of the same pattern as the foregoing, with a shamrock in silver embroidered at each end of collar, ten buttons in front, arranged from the top in groups of
four and four and two, Four bars of embroidery on skirt and sleeve flaps, grouped towards the centre.
II.— Infantry of the line.
These are made of scarlet doth, with cloth collar and cuffs of the colour of the regimental facings. The collar is ornamented with ⅝ inch lace along the top, and gold Russia braid along the bottom.
Badges according to regiment. Cuffs are pointed with ⅝ inch lace round the top, and a tracing of gold Russia braid ⅛ inch above and below the lace, the upper braid being finished with Austrian knot at the top. There are eight buttons up the front and two at the waist behind. The skirts are closed at the back with a pleat at each side, which is lined with white pointed flaps on the back skirts, as illustrated. The front collar, skirt pleats, and skirt flaps are edged with white cloth ¼ inch wide, twisted round gold shoulder cords of universal pattern, lined with scarlet, a small button of regimental pattern at the top. A red-web waist sash 2¼ wide is worn with this. The ends are round, and the tassels are worn over the left hip. The sash should be worn between the two bottom buttons.
In the Leicester Regiment a black line is introduced into the shoulder cord. The lace used in this Tunic, as we have already stated, is ⅝ inch wide. The pattern varies, however, as follows: —For the English and Welsh regiments it is of the rose pattern, and for the Irish regiments it is of the shamrock, whilst the following regiments have a black line introduced at the top and bottom of the lace: Norfolk and Somerset Light Infantry, East Yorkshire and Lancashire, and the Connaught Rangers.
III.— Highland and Scoth Regiments
lace, with gold Russia braid at the bottom Gauntlet cuffs. 3½ inches deep in front and 6 inches deep at the back, which have $^5$⁄$_8$ lace along
of the regimental facing. The collar is laced at the top and down the back. Three loops of gold cord, with buttons at the top, are placed on each cuff, eight buttons are placed down the front and two at the waist behind Inverness skirts, 8 and 7½ and 7 inches deep, with skirt
flaps on the 1st, 2½; inches shorter than 1st skirt, 2½ inches from centre and bottom button. Each skirt flat is trimmed with three loops of gold braid, with buttons at the bottom. A pocket is put in the skirt in front: edging of while cloth,
¼ inch wide, is put down the front, round the collar, skirts and flaps. The skirts are lined with white twisted, round gold shoulder cord of the ​universal pattern, lined with scarlet, a small button of regimental pattern on the top. The facings are of blue cloth in the Royal Highlanders and the Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders: buff, in the Seaforth Highlanders and Highland Light Infantry, and yellow cloth in other regiments.
The gold lace is of the thistle pattern, the Gordon Highlanders having a black line introduced at top and bottom.
SCOTTISH RIFLES.
The doublet for the Scottish Rifles is made of Rifle Green cloth, with collar and cuffs of similar material. Braid is put along the top and down the front of black lace ⅝ inch wide, of thistle pattern; gauntlet cuffs, 5 inches deep in the front and 8 inches deep at the back, each with ⅝inch lace round the top and at either side of the back seam.
Three loops of black Russia braid on each cuff, with a button at the top of each loop. Eight buttons down the front with two hooks and eyes at waist, and two buttons at the waist behind; skirts 7¼, 6¾, and 6¼ inches deep, with skirt flaps on the first two, 6¾ and 6¼ inches deep. The first skirt ¾ from the centre of bottom button, three loops of black Russia braid, with the regulation button at the bottom of each loop. A pocket is placed on the inside of the left breast and in each front skirt; two hooks for the support of the sword belt: black lining; shoulder straps of the same material as the garment, each with ⅛ inch lace; at the base: small regimental button.
Badge of rank of the same material as the button.
THE HIGHLAND DOUBLET SYSTEM
As will be seen this is cut on the same lines as the Tunic, as far as the body part is concerned; the variation of skirts being its special features.
The system is as follows:—O to A 1 inch
A to B ½ more than half depth of scye; continue to C depth of scye and to natural waist D.
O to E, $^1$⁄$_6$ neck plus ¼, and raise above line O ¾ inch; draw back neck.
From top of side seam raise shoulder of back 1 inch more than ⅛, breast, so as to localise seam on top of shoulder; go out 1 inch to get run of sleeve head seam.
C to 9 is ½ breast on to 12 or ⅔ breast.
Continue to 18 and 20½ inches more than half breast for making up, etc. front shoulder less width of back neck.
Now add 1 inch to this quantity, and sweep again, using point 20½ as at pivot; where the segments cross each other locates the neck point F.
F to G $^1$⁄$_6$ neck, measure down to H $^1$⁄$_6$, neck plus ½ inch to find of gorge.
From line D mark in ½inch to find centre of back, make width at waist 2¼; suppress 2 between back and side body, and 1½ inches between side body and forepart: make up to waist measure plus 1 inch.
Draw centre breast line from G through 6½ and 1 inch below, add on ⅝ for making up the edge. Draw line from J to bottom of side body and hollow ½ inch above and ¼ inch below.
To get the skirts, draught a skirt in the usual manner, but without any spring at front, and for spring behind come down from J to *1 inch more than $^1$⁄$_6$ scale; make depth according to rank. For Officers the skirts are 6½ inches deep; in this instance the front skirt is 7¾, second skirt 7½ and back skirts 6¾ inches deep. Back skirts for Officers 6 inches. The front skirt is to be 1 inch wider than second skirt.
The skirts or tashes vary in length; and as most of our readers will gather from the ​diagrams, they are double, that is—there is a smaller one on the top of the other. The left back skirt, as will be noticed. is smaller than the other, which is done with the object of letting them appear both the same size when the left one is overlapping the right. The lashes do not meet in front, being kept from 1½ to 2 inches from the edge of the forepart.
IV.- Rifle Regiments
The Tunic, with the exception of the Scottish Rifle Corps, are made of the new shade of Rifle green cloth, which is edged all round, with the exception of the collar, with black square cord; scarlet cloth collar and cuffs. The collar is edged with ½ inch black braid, with tracing of plain braid below. The cuffs are pointed and trimmed with Austrian knot, with black braid round top, extending to 8½ inches from the bottom of the cuff, for all ranks.
The skirts rounded off at the front and closed behind, and lined with black on each side of the breast; live loops of black square cord with netted cap and drops, fastened with black olivetts; on each back seam a line of the same cord form a crows-foot at the top, passing under the netted cap at the waist, below which it is made into an Austrian knot, reaching to the bottom
of the skirt. Shoulder cords of black chain gimp, with a small button of regimental pattern at the top.
The lace used for the Tunic on the West India Regiments is of the basis: and stand pattern.
TUNIC FOR ARMY SERVICE CORPS.
This is made of blue cloth, with collar and cuffs of white cloth; the collar is ornamented with ¾inch lace round the top, and gold cord similar to that on the shoulder straps round the bottom. Eight buttons in front, and two at the waist behind; the skirts are rounded off in the front, closed behind with a pleat at each side and lining of black silk. White cloth edging ¼ Inch wide all round (except the collar) up the skirt pleats, twisted round gold shoulder cord of
button of regimental pattern at the top. The cuff is trimmed with an Austrian knot of round back, gold cord, traced all round with gold Russia braid.
ARMY MEDICAL STAFF.
The Tunic worn by the Medical Staff is made of blue cloth: the skirts are closed behind and rounded off in front. The collar and cuffs are of black velvet; the collar is laced round the top and down the front with ¾ inch gold lace and gold Russia braid round the bottom. The cuffs are pointed with two bars, ¼ inch lace round top showing ¼inch black velvet between the bars, figured braiding of alternative large and small eyes alone below the lace; the top of the braided figure is 10 inches from the top of the cuff. Eight buttons are put down the front and two at the waist behind; there is a scarlet cloth edging all round (except the collar) and up the skirt pleats: the skirt is lined with black silk: plaited round gold shoulder cord of plaited gold wire basket cord inch in diameter, small gold gimp down centre, small button at top; the strap on the shoulder is 2¼ inches wide, terminating in a 4 inch wing.
ROYAL ARMY MEDICAL CORPS
The Tunic for the Royal Army Medical Corps is blue cloth, with collar and cuffs of the colour of the facing; the collar is ornamented with ¾inch lace round the top, and gold Russia braid along the bottom. The cuffs are gauntlet shaped, 3½ inches deep in front and 6 inches at the back; twisted round gold shoulder cord of ​the universal pattern, lined with blue. Small button at the top, the piping round the edge, etc., being of a dull cherry colour.
ARMY ORDNANCE DEPARTMENT
Tunic for principal Ordnance Officer is made of blue cloth; the skirts rounded off in front and closed behind. Scarlet cloth collar and cuffs; the collar laced round the top and down the from with 3 inch lace, and gold Russia braid along the bottom; eight buttons down
the front and two all the waist behind; the front and skirt pleats are edged with scarlet cloth ¼ inch wide and the skirts are lined with black silk; gold shoulder cords of plaited gold wire basket cord, $^3$⁄$_{16}$ inch in diameter; small gold gimp down centre of strap of the shoulder cord 2¼ inches wide, terminating in a 4 inch wing.
ARMY PAY DEPARTMENT
The Tunic worn by a Colonel in the Army Pay Department is made of blue cloth; the from of the skirt is rounded off and closed be-hind; yellow cloth collar and cuffs; the collar is laced round and down the front with a row of gold Russia braid along the bottom. The cuffs are of the same pattern as those used for the Army Ordnance Department, an illustration of which is given elsewhere. There are eight buttons down the from and two at the waist behind. The front collar and skirt pleats are edged with yellow cloth ¼ wide, and skirts lined with black silk; twisted round shoulder cord of universal pattern, lined with blue, and a small button of Departmental pattern at the top.
ARMY VETERINARY DEPARTMENT
Tunic Worn by those engaged in the Veterinary Department is made of blue cloth; skirts rounded oh in front and open lmhind; maroon velvet collar and cuffs, ¾ inch lace along the top and down the front, and collar and cuffs with a row of round Russia cord along the bottom.
Eight buttons down the front, and two at the waist behind; blue flap on each skirt behind, edged with round back gold cord: three buttons on each flap; sword flap is traced with gold Russia; the front collar and skirts edged with maroon velvet: the skirts are lined with black silk; twisted round gold shoulder cord of the universal pattern, lined with blue. Small button of Departmental pattern at the top.
PROVOST MARSHAL AND MILITARY MOUNTED POLICE
Thu Tunic worn by at Provost Marshall is of blue cloth, with scarlet edging down the front and opening at the back of the skirt, and collar and cuffs; plain flaps on the skirts, edged with scarlet; three buttons on each flap and two at the waist behind; the collar is edged with ¾ inch lace round the top and gold cord l inch in diameter at the bottom; twisted round gold shoulder cord of universal pattern; the cuffs have an Austrian knot of round back gold cord.
GOVERNORS OF MILITARY PRISONS
The Tunic is made of blue cloth, with scarlet cloth collar and cuffs, with badges of rank according to the last rank held in the Army.
INSPECTOR OF ARMY SCHOOLS
Same Tunic as for Officer of Infantry of the Line, with the exception that it is made of blue cloth with scarlet cloth collar, cuffs and edging; twisted gold round shoulder cord of the universal pattern, lined with blue; a small button at the top.
OFFICER OF THE ROYAL MILITARY COLLEGE, SANDHURST
Tunic made of scarlet cloth, same pattern as for Officer of Infantry of the Line, with blue cloth collar and cuffs. The Officer of the Royal Hospital of Chelsea and Kensington has a Tunic of blue cloth with a skirt 12 inches deep for an Officer 5ft. gin. in height, with a proportionate variation for any difference in height. Plain scarlet cloth collar and cuffs, with the badges of rank on the collar; blue flaps on each sleeve, 6 inches long and 2½ inches wide, with three small buttons, and a small flap 9 inches long with two buttons on each skirt behind ; eight buttons down the front and two at the back of waist; loops of gold cord with small buttons on each shoulder. The front flaps and back skirts are edged with scarlet cloth $^1$⁄$_8$ inch wide, and the skirt lined with black.
ROYAL HORSE ARTILLERY
Officers of the Royal Horse Artillery wear a jacket in place of the Tunic. This is made from blue cloth, edged all round with gold cord, forming a figure 8, 2½ inches deep at the bottom of each back seam. Collar is of scarlet cloth, cut square in front, with the corners slightly rounded; it is finished with two hooks and eyes, ​with blue silk labs with hook and eye. The collar is edged all round with gold cord, with lace $^{13}$⁄$_{16}$ inch wide round the top and down the front of the collar, with a grenade embroidered in frosted silver 2¼ inches long at each end; at each side, in front, loops of gold cord 15 to 18 in number, according to height of wearer, three-tenths of an inch in diameter, 1 inch apart from centre to centre, fastening with ball button, finished at the top with a crow's foot and curl; gold cord along the back seam, forming a crow's foot at the top of each side seam, and an Austrian knot and curl at the bottom of each side seam. Shoulder cord of plaited gold wire, lined with blue, and a small button of regimental pattern at the top. The cuffs are trimmed with an Austrian knot of gold cord 7½ inches deep.
DRESS JACKET FOR ROYAL HORSE ARTILLERY
The garment which takes the place of the Tunic for Officers of the Royal Horse Artillery is the Dress jacket, which is cut as illustrated on the opposite diagram. The system for producing it is similar in general features as description
rather to the narrow side, Starting from the nape of the neck, we measure down ½ depth of scye plus ½ inch, continue on to 8¼ depth of scye.
16 natural waist, 19½ full length, and come in from 16, 1 inch, and draw line for centre of back, come up 1 inch from the nape of neck and mark across $^1$⁄$_6$ neck plus ¼ inch, square lines at right angles to the various points, mark off width of back, plus 1 seam; and from this point square up $^1$⁄$_6$ chest plus $^3$⁄$_6$ to 1 inch, curve out for back scye and shape shoulder from from points so obtained, make the width of back 1¼ to 1½ inches at waist draw line from top of side seam to point 16, and round the side seam 2 inches, as illustrated, measure across from 9, ½ of chest, to 12 ⅔ breast to 20½ chest measure plus 2½ inches. Sweep for neck point from 12, by the front shoulder measure less width of back neck, and by point 20½ by adding 1 inch more than the previous quantity, where these two segments intersect each other locates the neck point.
Mark out from this point $^1$⁄$_6$ neck, mark down $^1$⁄$_6$ neck plus ½ inch, find slope of the shoulder by using point 12 as, a pivot, and sweeping by the over shoulder measure less distance from 8¼, to shoulder seam of back, make width of front shoulder ¼ inch less than back, shape scye as shown and complete the upper portion of the garment. From the waist take out 1½ inches between the side-body and forepart, and measure up waist to measure plus about 1 inch, and curve over the hips sharply;: a good plan is to measure in from the side seam of forepart, 1½ inches and
down 1½ inches, the point in front should be about 4 inches below waist line.
FROCK COAT FOR FIELD-MARSHALL, GENERAL, LIEUTENANT-GENERAL, MAJOR-GENERAL, BRIGADIER-GENERAL
The recent changes which have been made in military uniforms have abolished many of the undress garments, but those which have been worn by General Officers, Colonels on the Staff, Headquarter General, General on Personal Staff, remain.
The Frock-coat worn by Field-Marshal, etc., is made of blue cloth, D.B., with blue velvet collar and cuffs, cuffs being round 3 inches deep: plain flaps are put in the back pleats, 1½ inches wide and about ll inches long, for an Officers 5ft. 9in. in height. There are two rows of buttons down the front, the rows being 8 inches apart at the top. 4 inches at the waist; two buttons at the waist behind and one at the bottom of each skirt flap. The skirts are lined with black silk; shoulder cords of the same pattern as used on the Tunic.
FROCK COAT FOR COLONEL ON THE STAFF
This is made of blue cloth, D.B with collar and cuffs of the same material as the coat; cuffs are 3 inches deep, and flaps with three small buttons on each sleeve; plain flaps at the hack. pleats 1½inches wide and 11 inches long, for an
Officer 5ft. 9in. Two rows of buttons down the front, eight in each row, 8 inches apart at the top, 4 inches at the waist; two buttons at the waist behind and one on the forepart of each skirt flap; the skirts lined with black; shoulder cords and buttons as for the Tunic.
HEADQUARTER, GENERAL AND PERSONAL STAFF
Frock-coat for Headquater, General and Personal Staff is made of the same pattern as for Colonel of the Staff, with the exception of blue cloth shoulder straps; Officers in the possession of a Regimental Frock-coat will continue to wear it.
FROCK-COAT FOR AIDE-DE-CAMP TO THE KING.
These are made of blue cloth, S.B., with eight loops of blue silk, twisted on each side of the breast; a small loop 5 inches long, with it small button at each side of the collar; plain cuffs with two holes and buttons to each flap on each skirt behind. with a button at the bottom; two but-tons at the waist behind; skirt is lined with black; inside ticket in each black skirt; aigu- lete and shoulder cord, same as worn with Tunic. The Frock-coat is not required for the ordinary routine duty of the Aide-de-Camp.
FROCK-COAT FOR ORDINARY OFFICERS (UNIVERSAL SERVICE)
Frock-coats for ordinary Officers is made of blue cloth, D.B., with stand collar; shoulder strap 2⅓ inches wide; plain sleeve with two small buttons and button-holes at the bottom; six buttnns down each front, 8 inches apart at the top, 4 inches at the bottom; flaps or side pieces in the skirts behind, 10 inches deep one button on each pleat at the bottom and one at the top.
The skirts to reach to the knees and to be lined; shoulder straps of cloth of the same material as the garment, attached by an underpiece through a loop on the lower part of the shoulder, fastened at the top by a small button, which passes through both underpieces and shoulder strap. ​The top of the strap is triangular, size being about 1+$^1$⁄$_2$ inches long, the bottom $^1$⁄$_4$ inch from the centre.
FROCK-COAT FOR HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY
The Frock-coat worn in the Household Cavalry is made of of blue cloth, S.B.., with stand collar; the collar is ornamented with figured
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FROCK-COAT FOR FOOT GUARDS
This is made of blue cloth, S-B., with stand collar, ornamented with figured cording and figured braiding on the cuffs; five loops of black braid down each front, with two olivetts on each loop, the top loops reaching to the shoulder seam, the bottom one 4 inches long. The bottom row is some little distance above the waist; three rows of braid on each back skirt, finished with a tassel at the bottom, with an olivett at the top. The front is finished with hooks and eyes, the skirt lined with black silk, and the shoulder straps of the same material as the garment, edged with ½ inch black mohair braid. except at the base; black net button at the top.
FROCK-COAT FOR ARMY CHAPLINS
Frock-coat worn by Army Chaplains is an ordinary Clerical Frock.
MILITARY D.B. FROCK-COAT SYSTEM.
Draw line 1 G, make 1 to O 1 inch, O to E ½depth of scye plus ½ inch O to F depth of scye, as taken on customer. O to G natural waist length; draw lines at right angles to to,1, E, F, G; come in from G to H 1 inch to find centre of back; this must be straight, as the back is taken out on the crease.
1 to A is$^1$⁄$_6$ of the neck measure plus ¼ inch. The width of back on line D is made to measure plus ¼ inch; from this point square up to B, $^1$⁄$_6$ of the breast plus 1 inch from B to C, ¾ to 1 inch; by these points draw back scye from D to C, shoulder seam from A to C, and back neck from O to A. Now draw a straight line from D to G and hollow side seam of back about ¾ inch at 1; make width of back from H to Q about 2 inches. From Q to R is ½inches; point D is made a pivot and sweep from Q to V to find the length of side body. Point 1 is made a pivot, and a sweep is made from ¼ inch above point D to find top of side body.
Both of these sweeps are necessary, because, when sewing the side body to the back, a seam taken from the back makes it longer, and one taken from the side body makes it shorter. Measure across from ½ to L, the ½ chest measure plus 2½ inches. From L to K is the across chest measure, as taken on customer, or it may be found by measuring across from ½ to K, ⅔ the breast. Now sweep by the front shoulder measure less the width of back neck from O to A, making point K a pivot, and sweep in the direction of N. Now add 1 inch to that quantity, and use point L as a pivot, and sweep in the direction of N, where the two segments intersect each other, locates the neck point; place the square on L N, and mark out to O $^1$⁄$_6$, of neck measure, down from O to P, $^1$⁄$_6$ of neck plus ½ inch; to find the slope of shoulder at M deduct the distance from ½to O S, on the back from the over-shoulder measure, and by the remainder sweep in the direction of M, using point K as a pivot. From ½ to J is ½ breast; square down from this point and take out 1½ inches of waist suppression between S and T. Measure up waist to $^1$⁄$_2$, waist measure plus 1 inch; square across from V to X, and hollow waist ½inch. Add on ¼ inch beyond the breast line for the lapel seam, and shape label as illustrated; make it 4 inches wide at top and 2½ wide at bottom.
THE SKIRT.
Draw line across from V to X and hollow the waist seam at W ¾ inch. Mark down to Z, ⅛ of the seat, and by this point square from V to A A; mark down from V to T one-twelfth of the seat plus ½ inch, and square front to B B. Add on ¾ inch of round at the back, and complete skirt as shown.
The amount of fulness to be provided for at the waist must be decided in each case; it will not be necessary, as a rule, to allow for more than 1 inch.
THE BACK SKIRT.
As shown, H to Q, agrees with H Q of the back. C C, D D, is $^1$⁄$_4$ inch more than H Q: ½ inch is added on for seams above H Q, and 1 inch is allowed for the making up of the pleat beyond Q and D D.
GENERAL'S FROCK-COAT SYSTEM.
The Frock-coat, such as is worn by those Officers who are mounted, requires: little adaptation from what we have already described, and we herewith give a small diagram, showing the necessary variations. As far as bodypart is concerned this particular coat is identical with what we have already described, the lapel, however, is cut wider. The regulation for the distance between the buttons being wider than for the ordinary Officer. These are 8 inches apart at the top, and 4 inches apart at the waist part; the bottom is also increased to 8, in order to provide for this: the lapel is cut 5 inches wide at the top and 3 inches wide at the bottom. Coming to the skirt, it will be noticed that more spring is provided round the bottom edge in order that ​it may be adapted to the requirements of the figure when on horseback. This is arranged as follows:—From the bottom of forepart to X come down 3½ inches, and with the corner of the square resting on the side body, mark down 9 inches; From this point come out 1 inch, and draw line straight through to bottom of side body, and beyond this add ½ inch of round. To
find the run of front, mark down to the very bottom point of side body to X 3 inches, and square the from of the skirt at right angles to X and bottom of the forepart: hollow the waist 1 inch, and complete as per diagram.
SINGLE BREASTED FROCK-COAT
The various points of this garment are found in precisely the same way as described for the D.B. Frock-coat. We are giving a small diagram of this, which is practically the same as the larger diagram for the D.B. Frock-coat, and this shows that the from is finished at the breast line, as this is made to fasten up with hooks and eyes. The dotted line down the front is to represent the forepart turned in, so that the hooks and
eyes down the front may be more securely fastened. The particulars of braid, em, will be found in our illustrations and description.
MESS JACKETS.
The general style of Mess jackets worn by nearly all officers is of the roll collar pattern, without buttons or braid on any part of the jacket. One inch slit to be loft at the cuff. The back is finished with a point at centre of bottom, sharply curved over the hips. Collar badges, of the same pattern as worn on the Tunic, are pinned 5 from the shoulder seam. Badges of rank, of the regimental size of embroidery, are placed on the shoulder straps. Minature Decorations - Medals etc., are worn with this jacket. The following is a description of the colour of cloth used for the jacket, collar, shoulder straps, cuffs, and waist- coat, by the different regiments:-
MESS JACKET FOR THE HOUSEHOULD CAVALRY
Mess jacket worn by Household Cavalry is
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and is lined with drab silk. For the Royal Horse Guards it is made of blue cloth, with collar, cuffs, and edging of scarlet cloth. Gold lace, 1 inch wide, all round the Jacket within the edging (and Life Guards, the edging of velvet within the lace), and round the top of the cuffs, Which are pointed and 5 inches deep.
The 1st and 2nd Life Guards have a row of gilt studs down the front; gold shoulder cord and plaited chain gimp 1¼ inches wide. Field Officers are further distinguished by gold gimp round the collar and cuffs in the Life Guards; ½ inch lace in the Royal Horse Guards at the bottom of the collar and top of the cuff.
MESS JACKET FOR FOOT GUARDS
This is made of scarlet cloth, with collar and culls of garter blue; roll collar, with regimental badge on it, 5 inches from shoulder seam.
Cuffs pointed. Field Officers have on each sleeve three rows of small gimp cord, forming an eye at the top; Captain, two rows: Lieutenants, one row
MESS JACKET. FIELD MARSHALL
The mess jacket for Field Marshall, General Officers, Colonel on the Staff, Officers under the rank of Colonel, not on Cadre of a Unit is made of scarlet cloth, with blue collar; shoulder straps are of blue cloth, edged with ½ inch lace; the cuffs are of blue cloth and waistcoat is of blue to correspond with the collar and cuffs.
1st Dragoon Guards - Jacket of scarlet cloth, with blue collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and scarlet vest.
2nd Dragoon Guards - Jacket of scarlet cloth, with buff collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and vest.
3rd Dragoon guards. -Jacket of scarlet cloth, with yellow collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and vest.
4th Dragoon Guards - Jacket of scarlet cloth with blue collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and vest.
5th Dragoon Guards - Jacket of scarlet cloth, with dark green collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and green velvet vest.
6th Dragoon Guards - Jacket of blue, with white collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and white vest.
7th Dargoon Guards—Jacket of scarlet, with black collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and vest.
1st Dragoons - Jacket of scarlet. with blue collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and vest.
2nd Dragoons - Jacket of scarlet, with blue collar and cuffs. scarlet shoulder straps and vest.
3rd Hussars - Jacket of blue, with scarlet collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet vest.
4th Hussars - Jacket of blue, with yellow collar and culls. blue shoulder straps and scarlet vest.
5th Lancers - Jacket of blue ​collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet vest.
6th Dragoons. - Jacket of scarlet, with yellow collar and culls, scarlet: shoulder straps and vest.
7th Hussars. - Jacket of blue, with scarlet collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and vest.
8th Hussars. - Jacket of blue, with scarlet collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and vest.
9th Lancers. - Jacket of blue, with scarlet collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet vest.
10th Hussars.- Jacket of blue, with scarlet collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet vest.
11th Hussars.- Jacket of blue, with crimson collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and vest.
12 Lancers. - Jacket of blue with scarlet collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet vest.
13th Hussars.- Jacket of blue, with buff collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and white vest.
14th Hussars. - Jacket of blue, with yellow collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet vest.
15th Hussars.—Jacket of blue, with scarlet collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet vest.
16th Lancers. - Jacket of scarlet, with blue collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and blue vest.
17th Lancers. - Jacket of blue, with white collar and cuffs, blue smoulder straps and white vest.
18th Hussars. - Jacket and vest all of blue.
19th Hussars. - Jacket of blue, with white collar and cuffs, blue shoulders straps and white est.
20th Hussars. of blue, with crimson collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and crimson collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and crimson vest.
21st Lancers. - jacket of blue, with French grey collar and cuffs, vest, and blue shoulder straps.
Royal Artillery.—Jacket of blue, collar and shoulder straps, scarlet cuffs and vest.
Royal Engineers.- of scarlet, with blue collar and cuffs, scarlet shoulder straps and blue vest.
Scottish Rifles. - Jacket and vest of rifle green.
King's Royal Rifles - Jacket of riffle green, with scarlet collar and cuffs, shoulder straps and vest of rifle green.
Royal Irish Rifles. Jacket of rifle green, dark green collar and cuffs, rifle green shoulder straps and vest.
Rifile Brigade. - Jacket of rifle green, with black collar, black velvet cuffs, black cord skirt edging 1 inch wide. and $^1$⁄$_4$ inch deep shoulder straps and rifle green vest.
Army Service Corps.- jacket of blue, with white collar, cuffs, and vest, blue shoulder straps.
Army Medical Staff.- Jacket of blue, black collar, black velvet cuffs, blue shoulder straps and scarlet vest.
Prinicipal Ordinance Officer-jacket of blue, scarlet collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps, edged with $^1$⁄$_2$ inch lace, and blue vest.
Other Officers, Army Ordinance Department jacket of blue, scarlet collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and vest.
Army Pay Department - Jacket of blue, with yellow collar and cuffs, blue shoulder straps and waistcoat.
Army Veterinary Department - Jacket of blue, maroon cloth collar, maroon velvet cuffs, blue shoulder straps and vest.
The following Regiments all belong to the Infantry of the Line: Royal Scots.—jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps, cuffs and waistcoat of blue cloth.
Royal West Surrey. - jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs and vest.
East Kent Regiment. of scarlet, with roll and step collar of buff and red silk; buff shoulder straps and cuffs, 2½ inches deep. with three pointed buff flaps, 5½ inches deep and 2½ wide at the point; on the flap three small buttons of regimental pattern and three loops of twisted white cord; regimental pattern vest.
Royal Lancaster. - Jacket of scarlet, roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest of blue cloth with roll collar, four small regimental button of special pattern.
Northumberland Fusiliers. - Jacket of scarlet with roll collar of green cloth, scarlet shoulders straps and cuffs, and vest of regimental pattern.
Royal Warwickshire. - Jacket of scarlet, roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest with roll collar and four buttons.
Royal Fusiliers. - Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest with roll collar and four buttons.
Liverpool Regiments. - jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest, with roll collar and three buttons.
Norfolk Regiments. - Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of red cloth, white shoulder straps and cuffs. scarlet vest, cut with roll collar, four regimental buttons in front.
Lincolnshire Regiments. - jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of scarlet cloth, regimental shoulder straps, cuffs and vest.
Devonshire Regiment. - Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of green cloth, scarlet shoulder straps and cuffs, regulation vest.
Suffolk Regiments. - Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of yellow cloth, shoulder straps of some material as jacket, regimental cuffs, and vest of regulation pattern.
Somerset Light Infantry. - jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of blue cloth, blue cloth shoulder straps and cuffs, blue cloth vest of new regulation pattern.
​West Yorkshire Regiments—of scarlet, with roll collar of buff, shoulder straps and cuffs, white Marcela vest, with roll collar and three buttons.
East Yorkshire Regiments—Jacket of scarlet,with roll collar of white cloth, scarlet shoulder straps and regimental cuffs, whitewashing vest of regimental pattern.
Bedfordshire Regiment.—Jacket of scarlet,with roll collar, scarlet shoulder straps, white cuffs, with white slashes, and three buttons on slashes, and loops of twisted white cord, vest of scarlet cloth, and four buttons of regimental pattern.
Leicestershire Regiments.—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, white cloth vest of regimental pattern.
Royal Irish Regiments.—Jacket of scarlet,with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, roll collar vest, with four buttons.
Yorkshire Regiments—Jacket of scarlet,with roll collar of green cloth. green cloth shoulder straps and cuffs, vest of green cloth, made without collar.
Lancashire Fusiliers—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of scarlet silk, scarlet shoulder straps, white culls, regimental pattern vest.
Royal Scots Regiments—Jacket of scarlet with roll collar of blue, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest of tartan of regimental pattern.
Cheshire Regiment—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest and lapels.
Royal Welsh Fusiliers—Jacket of scarlet,with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest of black cloth, with four buttons.
South Wales Borderers—Jacket of scarlet, roll collar of white cloth, scarlet shoulder straps, white cuffs, regimental waistcoat.
King's Own Scottish Borderers.—Jacket of scarlet, roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and gauntlet cuffs, vest of Leslie tartan, roll collar and three buttons.
Inniskilling Fusillers—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of blue, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest of regimental pattern.
Gloucester Regiment—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of red, with white silk lacing, scarlet shoulder straps, white culls. vest of scarlet, opening1r inch below stud of shirt, fastening with three buttons.
Worcester Regiment—jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of green cloth, shoulder straps and cuffs, same as jacket, regimental vest.
East Lancashire Regiment.—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of white cloth, regimental shoulder straps, white cuffs, scarlet cloth vest.
East Surrey Regiment.—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest of regimental pattern from scarlet cloth.
Duke of Cornwall's Light Infantry.—jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of crimson silk, scarlet cloth shoulder straps, and white cloth regimental pattern vest.
West Riding Regiment—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of crimson, scarlet shoulder straps, with white cuffs 2¾ inches deep, with three pointed scarlet flaps, 5½; inches deep and 2¼ inches wide at the point on the flaps, and three buttons of regimental pattern.
Border Regiment—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps, cuffs, and vest.
Royal Sussex Regiment.—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of blue cloth, blue shoulder straps, cuffs of the gauntlet shape, with red silk slashes, 6 inches deep at the points, four buttons on slashes, vest of regimental pattern.
Hampshire Regiment—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental collar, cuffs, and vest.
South Staffordshire Regiment.—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest of plain white cloth.
Dorsestshire RegimentJacket of scarlet, with roll collar of white cloth, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, white washing vest of regimental pattern.
South Lancashire Regiments.—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of white silk, scarlet shoulder straps, white cuffs with slashes and three buttons, the vest of regimental pattern.
Welsh RegimentJacket of scarlet, with roll collar of crimson silk, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, scarlet cloth vest of regimental pattern.
Oxfordshire Light Infantry.—Jacket of scarlet, roll collar of scarlet silk, scarlet shoulder straps, white cuffs of ½ gauntlet pattern, four buttons in front, white washing vest of regimental pattern.
Essex Regiment—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of black silk, regimental shoulder straps, cuffs and vest.
Derbyshire Regiment.—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of green cloth, scarlet shoulder straps and cuffs, regimental vest.
Loyal North Lancashire Regiment.—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of white cloth,scarlet shoulder straps, white cuffs, scarlet cloth vest, with white silk lining.
Northamptonshire Regiment—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps, cuffs and vest.
Royal Berkshire Regiment—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and culls, blur cloth vest.
Royal West Kent Regiment—Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of blue velvet, regimental shoulder straps, blue velvet cuffs, gauntlet shape, slashed with red silk, six buttons in pairs, vest of white Marcela. with roll collar and six buttons.
Yorkshire Light Infantry—Jacket of scarlet, roll collar of blue cloth, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest of blue cloth: edges and pockets trimmed with gold cord, fastened with three buttons.
​Shropshire Light Infantry. - Jacket of scarlet, roll collar of blue cloth, scarlet shoulder straps, cuffs of regimental pattern of blue cloth, plain cloth vest.
Middlesex Regiment.- Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps, cuffs and vest.
Wiltshire Regiment. - Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of white cloth, scarlet shoulder straps, white cuffs, and vest of white washing material, with collar.
Manchester Regiment. - Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar and regimental shoulder straps, cuffs and vest.
North Staffordshire Regiment. - Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and vest.
York and Lancashire Regiments. - Jacket of scarlet, roll collar of red silk, red shoulder straps, regimental cuffs and vast.
Durham Light Infantry.. Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of rose-coloured ribbed silk,scztrlct shoulder straps, white cuffs and regimental vest.
Royal Irish Fusiliers. - Jacket of scarlet with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, blue cloth vest, with roll collar.
Connaught Rangers. - Jacket of scarlet, with regimental collar, shoulder straps and cuffs, and vest of green cloth, pockets front of bottom to the side seam, edged with $^1$⁄$_8$ inch gold cord, five buttons of special pattern down the front.
Leinster Regiment. - Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar of blue cloth, blue shoulder straps and cuffs, vest of blue cloth on white, according to climate.
Royal Munster Fusiliers - Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps and cuffs, vest of blue cloth, roll collar and three buttons.
Royal Dunlin Fusiliers - Jacket of scarlet, with roll collar, regimental shoulder straps, cuffs and vest.
MESS JACKET FOR THE EAST KENT REGIMNETS
On the sketch opposite we give an outline of a Mess jacket for the East Kent Regiment. The various details are found as already described. All the points marked on this diagram agree with those marked on the other Mess jacket system. The shaping of the lapel is to a certain extent a matter of taste. If the diagram is followed in this particular the result will be satisfactory. The sleeve diagram given shows the style of cuff for this particular regiment. and illustrates the position of the pointed flap and buttons, etc. This being an exceptional style of Mess Jacket, I have pleasure in giving the following details. It is made of scarlet cloth and lined with scarlet silk or Italian, instead of the usual roll collar and step. The roll is covered with scarlet corded silk, having a broad rib the edges of the jacket are piped from the step of edges of the jacket to about 6 inches round the bottom. The outside collar is of buff cloth, and is not piped. The shoulder straps and cuffs are slashed; are also of buff cloth, and these are piped with white, same as the edge, showing about $^1$⁄$_8$ inch wide, We specially direct the attention to the fact that the collar is not piped, whilst the shoulder straps, cuffs, and slashes are piped.
MESS JACKET FOR SCOTTISH HIGHLANDERS
This bears some resemblance to the former,as far as shape is concerned, and inasmuch as this jacket has to do the double duty, serving as a Drill as well as a Mess jacket, it has to be
adapted some-what. The collar is made to serve either as a stand collar for drill purposes, and to fall over for mess wear. It is made of scarlet cloth, with collar and pointed cuffs, or the regimental facings, edged all round with white cloth, ⅛ inch wide, ten buttons down the front, two above each cuff at back of sleeve, with shoulder cords, as worn on the doublet. In the Royal Highlanders, the jacket will have bluff silk lining, except for collar, which is dark blue, and no facing cloth on the inside. The point of cuff being arranged at the hack seam, in the Seaforth Highlanders. the jacket will be lined with red. and the inside of the collar of the garment on either side with crimson silk, instead of facing cloth. In the Cameron Highlanders, the jacket ​will have buff silk lining and no facing cloth on the inside. In the Argyle and Sutherland Highlanders, the jacket is lined with pale yellow,
the inside of the collar is bound the inside of the jacket and either side with facing cloth. Our sketch shows this arranged with collar standing. Our readers will easily be able to imagine the appearance it would have when the collar is turned over and the front made the form of revers. They will also see the importance of the buttons not being sewn through the facings, and the button holes being worked both sides.
MILITARY ROLLCOLLAR SYSTEM.
Draw line 1 G, mark from 1 to O 1 inch, O to E depth of scye plus ½ inch; O to F is depth of scye as taken on figure. O to G is natural waist; continue below natural waist 3 inches, come in from G to H 1 inch, and draw line from O for centre of back from O to H; this must be kept quite straight, as the back is cut on the crease. Draw lines at right angles to 1, E, F, and G, to A $^1$⁄$_6$ of neck plus ¼ inch. Measure of width of back D, plus $^1$⁄$_4$ inch. and square up from D to B $^1$⁄$_2$ breast plus 1 inch, and mark out from B
to C ¾ to 1 inch. By these points shape back scye from B to C, the shoulder seam from C to A. and the back neck form, A to O.
Draw line from D to G and hollow side at I from ¾ to 1 inch; mark the width of back from H to Q 1½ inches; From Q to bottom of side seam is 2 inches. Suppress the waist between Q and R 1½ inches, and shape the side seam of side body as (shown. Make point D a pivot and sweep from bottom of back to find bottom of side body, Now make point T a pivot and sweep from ½inch above D to find the top of side seam.
From ½ to J is ½ breast.
Square down a line from J take out 1½ inches suppression from S to T: the larger amount is best taken from the side body, as it makes a somewhat smarter garment. The sidebody is sprung out slightly below S and is terminated about 1½ inches below the waist seam from ½ to L is ½ chest measure, plus 2 inches; L to K is across chest measure. Make point K a pivot and sweep to find point N, using the front shoulder measure, less width of back neck, from O to A; now add 1 inch to this quantity and sweep from L. where the two segments intersect each other. locates the neck point. From N, mark out to O ​$^1$⁄$_6$ of neck; measure up the waist from H to Q, R '10 S, and T to U, to the ½ waist measure, plus 1 inch.
Draw line from O through 1. to U; drop the from 4 inches below the waist line; mark in from T 1½ inches, and down 1½ inches, and draw straight line from this point across, and curve ½ inch. Shape the gorge, as illustrated, and tit neck with a roll collar: to find the slope of shoulder at M, deduct the distance from ½ to O S, from the over-shoulder measure, and by the remainder sweep from K to M. Shape the scye, as illustrated, and complete, as per diagram.
STAND COLLAR MESS JACKET.
This would be cut on precisely the same lines as those described, with the exception of the neck, and the front would be terminated at the breast line. The way to find the top of front at the neck would be to measure down from O ½ neck, plus ½ inch, in the smite way as described for Tunic.
MESS VEST.
The general pattern of the Mess Waistcoast is wry similar to that of an ordinary Dress Vest, a horseshoe opening in front, finished without collar, and fastened with four buttons ½inch size. (See full-length figure on page 34. For colour of vest see detailed list on page 35.)
THE SYSTEM.
Draw line 1 G, and mark down to O I inch. O to F depth of scye, O to G, natural waist come in from G to H 1 inch and draw line from O to H. H to Q is ½ inch, and by these points draw centre of back, as illustrated. from O past ½ to Q.
Make point I a pivot and sweep from O to C; make A to C A breast, plus ½ inch. and so find shoulder slope.
Measure from I to J, ½ chest, plus 1 inch, and shape back scye. From Q to S is ½ waist, plus 1 inch.
Draw line down from J. as illustrated. Mark froward to T 1 inch.
Make from J to l. ½ chest, plus ½ inch, L to K across chest measure, minus ½ inch. To find point N sweep from K by the front shoulder measure, less ¼ inch, less width of back neck from O to A now add ¾ inch to this quantity, using pivot L as a pivot and sweeping again in
the direction of N where these two segments intersect each other locates the neck point; measure out from N to O $^1$⁄$_6$ of the neck, and draw line from O through L to U and X; find point M by deducting distance from I to O S, from over-shoulder measure. Shorten it another ¼ inch and sweep, using point K as a pivot. Make M to N ½ inch less than from A to C; mark forward from N to V 5 inch, making the depth of opening usually about 1½ inches above U; mark back 3 inches from the breast line and draw line from B, as illustrated.
Shape the front with a gradual curve. The length of Vest must he made up to measure, and this usually runs about 3½, to 4 inches below the waist, and it should not extend more than 1 inch below the waist at side; as in no case must it show below jacket; add on 2 inch of button stand, and complete, as diagram.
MESS WAISTCOAT FOR HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY
For the 1st Life Guards the vest is cut to fasten up the front. and finished with a stand ​collar ; it is made of blue cloth, edged all round with 1 inch lace. gold studs down the front. curved pockets without welts or lace. For the 2nd Life Guards it is cut in the same style as the Horseshoe Vest; made from light blue cloth, edged with ¾ inch lace round the edges, across top of pockets, which are put in with a welt, gilt studs down the front.
MESS VEST FOR ROYAL HORSE GUARDS.
This is cut to fasten up to the neck and finished with a stand collar. It is made of scarlet cloth, to fasten down the front with hooks and eyes, edged all round, including the collar, with t inch gold lace.
Pockets on either side, trimmed along the top with lace, the same as put down the front.
THE MESS WAISTCOAT FOR THE FOOT GUARDS
This is made of garter blue cloth, with roll collar, four ornamental regimental buttons, for
the Grenadier Guards and Coldstream Guards; and three for the Scots Guards.
MESS DRESS FOR INFANTRY OF THE LINE
The Mess Vest worn by Infantry of the Line is of the ordinary evening dress cut, the same pattern as and Life Guards, but made to fasten with buttons instead of hooks and eyes. The waistcoat may be of white or scarlet cloth, or of white washing material. without lapels,
fastened with four {½inch buttons of regimental pattern.
MESS WAISTCOAT FOR HIGHLAND AND SCOTTISH REGIMENTS
This is made of cloth of the colour of the facings, scarlet cloth, or regimental tartan; in other respects the style is the same as cloth Mess Waistcoat of Infantry of the Line. The Gordon Highlanders' Mess waistcoat is made of scarlet cloth, with roll collar and three small buttons. (See illustration, Grenadier Guards.) In the Royal Highlanders' Dress Vest it is of regimental tartan, cut with roll collar, fastened with three buttons; in the Argyle and Sutherland Highlanders it is made of regimental tartan, finished with a roll collar, front of pocket arranged with gold cord and fastened with four buttons; in the Cameron Highlanders the Mess Vest is made of blue cloth, with roll collar, the front of the pocket is trimmed with Russia braid and five buttons.
MESS WAISTCOAT FOR THE HIGHLAND LIGHT INFANTRY
This is made of tartan of various regimental patterns, S.B., no collar, opening ½way down, three regimental buttons in front, the Waislcoat edged all round with ½ inch round gold cord, pockets on each side, edged with similar cord. forming a crow's-foot at the centre and at the ends.
MESS VESTS.
The 1st Life Guard and Royal Horse Guards have their Mess Vests cut with a stand collar, fastened up to the throat with hooks and eyes, it is, therefore, necessary to make some little variations to that shown on the system ​ described. All the leading points are the same, with the inflowing exceptions. No provision is made for button stand down the front, and the gorge is taken up to the neck at
A, and cut round to the neck point ; from N to O is $^1$⁄$_6$ neck, O to $^1$⁄$_6$ 5 neck plus it inch, point O being Qqunretl at right angles to L N.
2nd Life gaurds—This is cut practically the same as is described in the System, the exception bring that it is cut without a button stand, A I0 X. representing the breast or edge to edge line; this being necessary in order that it may he fastened with hooks and eyes down the front: it is, therefore. necessary to add on from N to B about ⅝ inch, and draw opening of the front from B to A, as illustrated. The various points on this diagram are marked with same letters as are used in the full description of the system, so that it may he completed in that way.
Foot Guards.—This is cut with roll collar and V shaped opening. The gorge may be cut. as illustrated by dot and clash line, or it may be cut as per solid line from B to A. In the latter case the roll is simply laid on. The arrangement is perhaps the simplest plan, as it allows the crease row to be easily adjusted to the requirements of the wearer.
This Vest is made to fasten with buttons down the front, so that it is necessary to add on $^3$⁄$_4$ inch on the button-hole side. and rather more an the button side.
Mess Vest for Highland Light Infantry.—This Vest is of the S.B., no collar, type, opening rather low; ⅝ inch is added from N to B in front of the breast line; in other particulars it is finished in the same way as previously described for the System.
PATROL JACKET.
The Patrol jacket is practically one of the obsolete garment of military uniforms, but inasmuch as it is still retained in one or two branches of the Service, we thought it desirable to illustrate it by a diagram and figure, so that our readers may know how to cut the same, and make it up, should it be required. At the same time we are not unmindful of the fact that this is the most popular garment worn for Band ​Uniforms, and as old military patterns are now available for this purpose. then: is no reason why this should not he freely used for occasions of that kind
PATROL JACKET FOR THE SCOTTISH RIFLES
This is made of rifle green cloth, 28 inches long from the bottom of collar behind for Officer 5ft. 9in. in height, with proportionate variation for any difference in height. The bottom of front is rounded, the collar and cuffs of rifle green cloth, black mohair braid I inch wide down the front, round the bottom of the jacket and round the slits. Mohair braid is traced inside with Russia braid, forming eyes. at each angle of the slits. The back seam is trimmed with 1 inch mohair braid, traced on both sides with Russia braid, forming three eyes at the top and two eyes at the bottom of each side ; in front five loops of black square cord, fastened with olivetts, each loop forming an eye above and below in the centre, and a drop at the end; a cap at each drop; cuffs pointed with 1 inch mohair braid, with a tracing of black mohair braid above and below the collar; cut square and edged with mohair braid, 1 inch wide, tracing below the braid and on the collar seam, forming an eye at the corner; at the back, below the centre of collar, a tracing, forming a plume 6 inches deep: this is lined with black and fastened down the front with hooks and eyes. A pocket is inserted on either side, below the fourth loop and are inside on left breast.
Shoulder cords of black chain gimp, with badges of rank as for the Doublet.
PATROL FOR KING'S ROYAL RIFLE CORPS.
This is practically the same as for the Scottish Rifles. with the exception that the collar is edged all round with $^1$⁄$_2$ inch mohair braid and traced inside with Russia braid, forming an eye at each end. The cuffs are of the pointed pattern. and the collar and cuffs are of the regimental facings.
PATROL JACKET FOR THE RIFLE BRIGADE
This is made of rifle green cloth of the same size and shape as already described. The collar and cuffs are of black velvet. There is black mohair braid, 1 inch wide, down the front, round the bottom of Jacket and round the slits. The mohair is traced inside with Russia braid, forming eyes at each angle of the slits. The hack seams are trimmed with 1 inch mohair braid, traced on both sides with Russia braid, forming
three eyes at the top and two eyes at the bottom; five loops of black square cord are placed at each side of the front, and these are fastened with olivetts, each loop forms an eye above and below the centre, and a drop at the end; a cap or setted button is put at the top of each drop; pointed cuffs, with 1 inch mohair braid, tracing at the bottom with Russia braid, forming an eye in the angle; the collar edged with 1 inch mohair braid, traced below the braid and the collar seam, forming an eye in the corner at the back, below centre of collar; the tracing forms a plume, 6 inches deep, lined with black, and fastened down the front with hooks and eyes. A pocket on either side below the fourth loop, and one on each side of the breast; shoulder cords as for the Tunic.
MILITARY PATROL JACKET.
Square line at right angles to O. O to H, 1 inch, and H to 8¼ depth of scye, H to 16½ length of natural waist, square across line from 8½ and 16½ width of back neck is made $^1$⁄$_6$ the total neck measure, plus l inch. The back is cut on the crease edge, and being worn without a belt the centre of back is kept to the construct-ion line. H to X is ½ depth of scye, plus ½ inch, draw the line at right angles to this and measure off width of back plus ¼ inch. From 7¼ draw line to 16½, and hollow the side seam of back about ¾ of inch, 8¼ to 9, {¼of breast, 8¼ to 12, ⅔ of breast, 8|¼to {20½, ½ breast measure, plus 2½ inches. From 12 sweep by the front shoulder less 2¾, the width of back neck. Sweep from 20½ by the front shoulder measure, plus 1 inch, and so locate the neck point. Find the height of back shoulder seam by measuring up from 7¼, ½ of breast, plus 1 inch. Spring out 1 inch and form the back scye. Now measure up from A to B, and deduct from the over-shoulder measure. ​and by remainder sweep from 12 and so find the shoulder scam of forepart.
Suppress the waist 2 inches between back and side body, 1½ inches between side body and forepart. Let the forepart overlap the side body 1 inch for the spring over the hips. Mark down to W one—twelfth and finish, as illustrated. The bottom of the forepart is drawn 1½ inches below line drawn through from the back.
PATROL JACKET FOR STAFF ON HOME SERVICE
A very similar garment to the Patrol jacket, is the Military Frock. This must not be confused with the Military Frock-coat, it being quite a distinct garment.
The Frock worn by Staff Officers is cut after the style of the lounge, but fastens down the front with buttons and holes instead of hooks and eyes. This, also, is free from trimming, in the form of braid, but has a plentiful supply of pockets. We will, therefore give the regulation details.
PATROL JACKET FOR FIELD MARSHALL, &c.
This is made of blue Angola tartan, or serge, according to climate, cut full in chest, and broad
in back, slits at sides with live regimental buttons down the front, two patch pockets on outside breast, 6½ inches wide and 8 inches deep, from the top of the flap. The top edge of the pocket is to be in line with the skirt button. The pocket is finished with three pointed flaps, small regimental button and hole, loose pleat on rear side of pocket, two small outside patch pockets below, with three pointed flaps, two inside breast pockets with vertical mouths and fasten with holes and buttons. Two inside skirt pockets with holes and buttons, lined with black alpaca. Shoulder straps of the some material of the frock, fastened with a small regimental button. Stand and full
collar, fastening with one hook and eye, and the collar sewn on to each side, in front and meeting at the fastening are gorget patches, pointed at the outer end, the gorget patch to be of scarlet cloth, 4½inches long and showing $^5$⁄$_{16}$ inch blue light above and below the patch. A loop of gold oak leaf embroidery along the centre and a button 1 inch from the point sleeves with pointed cuffs 6 inches high, with 2¼ inch slit. Two small buttons and button-holes.
This same style of Frock is worn by General,Lieutenant-General, Major-General, and Brigadier-General.
FROCK-COAT FOR COLONEL ON THE STAFF
This is practically the same as for the Field-Marshal, with the exception that it has a stand up collar from 1¼to 1¾ inches high, in lieu of stand and fall collar.
On the gorget patch at loop of crimson silk cord three-twentieths of an inch in diameter is placed along the centre, with a small button 1 inch from the end, instead of the gold oak leaf embroidery; in all other details the same as Field-Marshal. ​
FROCK FOR OFFICERS OF THE HEAD-QUARTERS
This is made of blue serge of regimental pattern, scarlet gorget patch, with crimson loop with regimental button.
FROCK FOR THE PERSONAL STAFF
This is practically the same as the preceding one, with the exception of the gorget patch, finished with crimson silk gimp.
FROCK FOR AIDE-DE-CAMP TO THE KING.
This is made as described for Field-Marshal, with the following regimental details: -Collar is stand and fall for General Officers, stand up for Officers below that rank, fastened with one: hook and eye; gorget patch is trimmed with a loop of gold chain gimp, gold or silk, according to rank, along the centre, with button 1 inch from the point, and shoulder straps with Royal cypher and crown in gilt or gilding metal; no badges of rank.
GENERAL'S FROCK SYSTEM.
Draw line O, A, A come up from O, 1 inch, 1 to 2¾ $^1$⁄$_6$ neck plus ¼ inch, O to 5, ½ depth of scye plus $^1$⁄$_2$ inch, O to 9, depth of scye, O to 17, natural waist, O to Am A full length plus 2 seams. Square across from these points, from 5 to 7¼ width of back plus 1 seam; from these points square up to 4, $^1$⁄$_6$ breast plus 1 inch: mark out from 4 to 1, 1 inch and draw shoulder seam, as illustrated. From 9 to 20½, ½ chest measure plus 2½ inches, 20½ to 12 across chest measure, and from these two points sweeps are made to find the neck-point. The first sweep is made from point 12 by the front shoulder measure less width of back neck, add 1 inch to that quantity and sweep from point 20½; where the two segments intersect each other locates the neck point F. From F to V is $^1$⁄$_6$ of the neck; now place the angle of the square on F and 20|½, mark out to V $^1$⁄$_6$ of the neck, V to 1 $^1$⁄$_6$ neck plus ½ inch, draw line from V through 20½ and from this point square down, add on ½ inch for surplus room in the front, and reduce neck to measure by small V, as shown, at the gorge, add on ¾ inch for the button-hole side, and sew on the button stand. To find slope of shoulder sweep from point 12, by the over-shoulder measure, less distance from 9 to W of the hack, make the width at shoulder from F to D ¼ inch less than width of back shoulder, shape scye by points so obtained, make width of back at waist equal to $^1$⁄$_6$ of chest, take out 1 inch suppression between 6 and 7 and let side seam overlap ½ inch at the bottom, leave 4½ inch slit and complete: side seam, drop the waist line in front from U to 1, 1 inch and come down from 7 to V $^1$⁄$_6$ breast and square from V 1, to find spring of the bottom part of the forepart.
It will he observed that we have left extra room on front. This is intended to be utilised on the right side for seeing on the button stand. the left forepart being cut away, as illustrated.
The sleeve is same as previously described.
FROCK FOR HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY
This is made of blue Angola tartan or serge, full in chest, but cut with side bodies, slits at side, five small regimental buttons down the front, two breast patch pockets outside, 6|½ inches wide. 8½ inches deep, from the top of the flap: the top edge of the pocket in line with the second button, with three pointed flaps, small regimental
button and hole, loose pleat on rear side of pocket, two outside patch pockets below, with three pointed flaps, two inside breast pockets with vertical pockets, mouths lastened with holes and buttons, two inside skirt pockets with button and hole; shoulder straps of the same material, steel shoulder chain with badges of rank, black
sleeves with pointed cuffs, 6 inches high in front and inches behind, with slits and two small and two small buttons and button holes.
HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY FROCK SYSTEM
This garment is cut more on the lines of ​the Patrol than any of the others. The System for drafting is as follows:— Draw line O A A, come up twin O 1 inch. 1 to 2¾, $^1$⁄$_6$ neck plus ¼ inch, O to 5, 5 depth of scye plus ½ inch, O to 9, depth of scye, O to 17, natural waist length, O to AA full length plus ½ inch, square lines from these points and mark all as follows: 5 to 7½, width of back plus 1 seam; from this point square up to 4, $^1$⁄$_6$ of breast plus 1 inch, mark out from 4 to 1, 1 inch and shape back scye from 1 to 7+$^1$⁄$_2$, shape shoulder from 2¾ to 1, as illustrated; from 9 measure across ¼ breast to point 9, ⅔ of the breast to point 12:, and chest measure plus 2½ inches to point 20½; or point 12 may he obtained by measuring back from point 20½, the across chest measure; find the position of neck and shoulder point as previously described and shape scye and front in the same way as before. In locating positions of the seams, the following rules should be followed: Width of back at the waist is made equal to one-eighteenth of the breast, width of back at the bottom is made equal to onetwelfth of the breast, 1½ inch of suppression is taken out between back and side body, and side body is made to overlap the back ½ inch at the bottom; square clown from point 9;, and take out from ¾ to 1 inch suppression, let side body of forepart overlap for about ½ inch. Find spring of the front as previously described, and complete as per diagram.
FOOT GUARDS FROCK.
The Foot Guards Frock is made of red Angola tartan, or serge, according to climate, cut full
in the chest, and lined in the front with scarlet, blue cloth stand up collar and shoulder straps, shoulder straps with small regimental button at top, and six large regimental buttons down the front.
Grenadier Guards, equal distance apart. Coldstream Guards, by pairs. Scots Guards. by threes.
The band, 1½inch wide round the waist, with special pattern buckle 2 inches long, 1½ inches wide, in front; the ticket pocket with shaped flap and small button on each breast; a small pocket without button below the hand; a slit at the cuff, with small button and button-hole.
Grenadier Guards, two. Coldstream Guards, two pairs. Scots Guards, threes
System Draw line O A A. O to 1 equal 1 inch. 1 to A, $^1$⁄$_6$ neck, plus ¼inch. O to E ½ depth of scye, plus ½ inch. O to F depth of scye. O to G natural waist. O to A A full length. E to D width of back, D to B $^1$⁄$_6$ breast, plus 1 inch, B to C $^3$⁄$_4$ inch; shape shoulder from A to C. F to J ½ chest measure, plus 2 inches. J to K across chest measure; or it may be found ⅔ of breast, from point F. G to H ⅓ of breast. Shape side seam, as illustrated. H to R, 1+$^1$⁄$_2$ inches, square down from J to U and measure up waist to measure, plus seams, and reduce by V's, as shown. As a general rule 1 inch should he taken out at S T and ½ inch at Y, sweep for the shoulder. First of all from K, using the front shoulder measure. less O A of hack; now add 1 inch to this quantity and sweep again from point J; where the two segments intersect each other locates. the neck point N: N to O $^1$⁄$_6$ of neck. Place the square on J N, and mark out to O, O to P, $^1$⁄$_6$ neck, plus ½ inch; by this point draw gorge, draw breast line from O to J, add on ¾inch at P and L to nothing at waist; this is done to give extra ease at that part; add on ¾ inch button stand, and complete, as shown.
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For the Irish Guards there are four buttons put in two pairs and a flat bar at the waist.
UNIVERSAL SERVICE JACKET
For all other Officers the new Universal Service Frock replaces the various patterns that were previously worn; a description of this garment is as follows:—This is made of special Mixture serge, of the same colour as that issued to the men; single-breasted; cut as a lounge coat to the waist; the very loose at the chest and shoulders, but fitted at the waist; 2½ inches expanding pleat down the centre of the back, sewn down below the waistband, and a waist seam and band 2½ inches wide; military skirt to bottom edge; a hook on each side at the waist; jacket cut low in front of the neck; turn down (Prussian) collar, to fasten with one hook and eye: tab underneath, with two button-holes, to button across the opening 2¾inches fall in the from and 2 inches at the back, collar edges to run V-shape, showing top button between; two cross-patch breast- oackets, 6½ inches wide and 7½ inches deep to the top of the flap, 2¼ inches box pleat in the centre; two expanding pockets below the waist (pleats at the sides), 9¼ inches wide at the top, 10½ inches at the bottom, 8 inches deep to the top of the pocket. fastened at the top with a small button; flap, with button hole, to cover pockets, 3½ inches deep. 10¾ inches wide, sewn into bottom edge of waistband. The top of the pockets should be sewn down at the corners in such a manner that on service the pocket can be expanded at the top also. Outside ticket pocket in top of the waistband on the right side; inside watch pocket, with leather tab above for chain or strap. Five large buttons down the front, the bottom one on the lower edge of waistband. To he lined or not as required, with lining of similar colour to the jacket. Cuffs pointed 5½ inches deep at the point. 2½ inches deep at the back.
SHOULDER STRAPS
are now only worn by Staff Officers, for whom they have two broad stripes of red cloth with ½ inch surge, light.
All other officers have plaited braid shoulder cords.
BUTTONS
Gilding material, unglit, "die struck." "not mounted." Regimental patterns.
BADGES
On the collar of the service dress jacket—The present pattern field cap badge, or the present pattern collar badges, but in brown bronze.
BADGES OF RANK
Staff—Metal as worn on blue serge frocks, vide Dress regulations, paragraph 2.
CUFFS
Regimental Officers—Rank will be shown by braiding on the sleeves with drab braid and by distinction badges on the sleeves, as shown on the accompanying illustration.
It will be seen that there is a slash six inches long at the forearm sean, and seven inches long at the points 2½ inches wide at the bottom, and 3 inches at the top. This is edged with fancy drab braid. Distinction marks according to tank are put in the slash. Round the cuffs are rows of braid, together with narrow Russia braid, also of drab. The position and arrangement of these for the different ranks will be gathered from the accompanying diagrams.
MILITARY SERVICE JACKET
We now place before our readers the diagram of an Officer's Service Dress. jacket, as made by one of the most renowned military tailors in the West End, who have a style of cut and finish which is essentially their own, and which is, consequently not in accordance with the sealed pattern kept at the War Office.
The main differences are an absence of cuts at the neck, the skirt is cut in one with the body part, and the slash on the cuff is formed by the braid. Large numbers of these jackets cut in this style are now being made, and worn by the officers.
In a future issue we will give an up-to-date diagram of the sealed pattern style. ​The billowing are the official regulations:-
It is made of a special mixture serge; single breasted. cut as at Lounge Coat to waist; very loose at the chest and shoulders, but fitted at the waist; an expanding pleat down the centre of the back; sewn down below the waist-band, and a waist-seam and band 2½ inches wide; military skirt to bottom edge; a hook on each side of the waist; jacket cut low in front of the neck: turn-down Prussian collar, to fasten with one hook and eye, 2¾ inches fall in front, and 2 inches at back ;
collar edges to run V-shape, showing top button between; two cross-patch breast pockets above. 6½ inches wide and 7½ inches deep to the top of the flap, 2¼inch box-pleat in the centre; two ex- panding below the waist (pleats at the side), 99¼ inches wide at the top, 10½inches at the bottom, 8 inches deep to the top of the pocket; fasten at the top with a small button; flap with button-hole to cover pockets. 3½ inches deep. 10¾ inches wide, sewn into bottom edge of the waistband. Outside ticket-pocket in top of the waistband on the right side. inside watch-pocket with leather tab over for chain or strap. Five large buttons down the front, the bottom one on the lower edge of waistband. To be lined or not, as required, with lining of similar colour to the jacket. Shoulder straps of melton cloth the same colour as the garment, edged all round except at the shoulder seam, according to the branch of the service, attached to the jacket by an underpiece passed through a loop on the lower part of the shoulder, and fastened at the top by a small button which passes through both under piece and shoulder strap; the top of the strap is triangular, the sides being about 1½ inches long, and the button 1 inch from the centre point. Cuffs plain. with three pointed slashes, laced and braided according to rank.
Badges of rank in worsted on the slashes.
Buttons: Gilding metal, ungilt, " die struck." not " mounted." Regimental patterns.
THE SYSTEM.
Draw lines at right angles to O. O to A 1 inch. A to B 4½ inches. A to C depth of scye as taken ​on customer; Continue to N W for natural waist, and to F L the full length, plus ½ inch for seams. O to D $^1$⁄$_6$ neck. B to E width of back plus seam. Square line up and down from back pitch. E to J one-twelfth breast, and spring out ½ inch. Hollow waist ½ inch, and curve side seam into back scye about 1 inch above depth of scye line. Take out a fish of ½ inch or ¾inch at the back about ½ inch
Suppress the sideseam of the fort-part ½ inch or 1 inch, and add 1½inch spring at the bottom. C to F is ¼ of the breast plus 3 inches. C to 20½ is the ½ breast, plus 2½ inches. Sweep by the front shoulder measure less the back neck from F. Add 1 inch to this quantity, and sweep again from 20½, and where these segments cross locate the neck point. Sweep from F by the over-shoulder measure less to C to J of the back, and make G K a trifle lens than the corresponding width of the back. G to X at H $^1$⁄$_6$, neck. H to J is $^1$⁄$_6$ neck plus ¼ inch. The average neck for the 36-inch breast is 15¾. Square down from 20½, and drop the waist line in front ¾ inch. Reduce the waist by a fish under the arms of 1 inch, and another in the front of ¾ inch. Find the spring at the front by dropping down from the waist line to * one twelfth of the breast, and squaring at right angles to * L. Drop the front 1 inch as shown. Add on ¾ inch for the button-hole side, and 1¾for the button side, and complete as shown.
THE SLEEVE
Draw lines at right angles to 0. O to B 1 inch. O to A is the distance between the front of scye and the back, or a trifle more than between line J and F. B to C the size of the upper part of the scye between the two pitches. The length to the elbow and cuff is made up to the measure taken. The forearm in hollowed 1 inch at D, and the width from 1 to 9 is $^1$⁄$_6$ chest plus 2 inches. The width of the cuff is ¼ breast plus ½ inch. E to F is 1½ inches. For the undersleeve, A to D is the same size as the lower part of the scye between the two pitches. The collar is cut as shown on the diagram. and is only a straight piece 4½ inches wide, and of the necessary length.
THE SEALED PATTERN
of the Universal Service jacket is cut as a Lounge to the waist, with a 2¼ inch expanding pleat down the centre of back to the waist, but sewn down below the waist seam; a 2¼ inch waist-band is sewn on round the waist.
The length of the skirt below the waist-hand is the some as for the tunic. Two cross pockets and flaps are placed on the hips below the waist, the flaps being stitched on under the waist-band. The flaps are 3½ inches wide and 10½ inches long, the pockets below being of the bellows pattern, and are made 9 inches at the top and 10½ inches at the bottom. The expansion is tacked down at top and bottom of the pocket, except for active service. There is a ticket pocket placed on the waist-hand on the right side, and a watch-pocket placed in the left facing. Four large buttons are placed down the front, two small buttons outside the breast pockets, and a corresponding number for the hip pockets. The breast pockets have a box-pleat 2½ inches wide down the centre. O to A is 1 inch. A to B 4¾ inches, or half the depth of scye plus ½ inch. A to C 8½ inches, or the depth of scye; on to N W, 16½ the natural waist length. O to D $^1$⁄$_6$ of N, plus ¾ inch. D to E ¼inch. B to F width of back plus two seams. F to G $^1$⁄$_6$ breast, plus 1 inch. G to H 1 inch. Square down G F to waist, and suppress back ½ inch. Suppress waist at back 1 inch, and add on a 2½inch box-pleat. The want line is sewn round back as well as forepart. Spring out at bottom back by dropping square as per dotted line ½inch. Suppress forepart an marked. The front of scye is found at one-fourth of breast plus 3 inches front centre of back; or by measuring back from 20½ one-fourth of B M less ½ inch. 20½ at waist is drawn at right angles from 20½ B. The cuts are regulated according to the amount of ease, etc., that is required round waist. The run of gorge is found by going out from the neck point ⅛ of neck, and drawing line from X through breast and waist points.
The Sleeve:—O to A is 1 inch. O to B distance between pitches. A to C width of sleevehead.
The Collar:—Draw lines O, D and E, O to A is the difference between depth of stand and fall, plus ½ inch. A to B is depth of stand. B to C depth of fall. D to E depth of stand in front.
MILITARY OVERCOAT
Military Overcoat is practically the same for all services, those used for mounted officers being cut with extra spring so as to provide for the special requirements of that class.
The following are the official regulations of the Military Greatcoat:—
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Staff—Two broad stripes of red cloth with ½ serge light.
Cavalry of the line.—Edging, ¼ inch yellow cloth.
Royal Artillery,—¼ inch dark blue cloth; in the centre a loop of scarlet braid from the shoulder seam round the upper end of the button-hole, the sides of the loop ¼ inch apart.
Royal Engineers—as for Royal Artillery, but with colours reversed.
Infantry.—Edging, ¼ inch scarlet cloth.
Army Service Corps.— Edging, ¼ inch white cloth.
Royal Army Medical Corps,—Edging, $^1$⁄$_6$ inch white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of dull cherry braid.
Army Pay Department—Edging, ¼ inch white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of yellow braid.
Army Ordinance Department.—Edging ¼ in white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of scarlet braid.
Army Veterinary Department—Edging ¼ inch white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of maroon braid.
Provost Marshall—Edging, ¼ inch white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of black braid.
Inspector of Army Schools.—Edging, ¼ inch light blue cloth.
Badges of rank are worn on the shoulder end of the strap.
For mounted officers the coat is cut below the waist, with spring to form 16-inch lap, or 8 inches on from the centre line. The slit at the back should he of suitable length for riding.
THE SYSTEM
Draw line A B. A to D 1 inch. D to F depth of scye. D to E is ½ inch more than half D to F. D to G is natural waist plus ½. A to C $^1$⁄$_6$ of breast plus ¼inch, and up ¼ inch. Draw back neck through C to A. E to H half back, plus ¼ inch. H to I is $^1$⁄$_6$ of breast plus ½ inch, and out 1 inch always. F to J ½ breast plus ½ inch; on to 22, and back from 22 to K $^1$⁄$_6$ breast plus ½ inch. 22 is ½ breast plus 4 inches. Square down from J to waist line, and mark out 3 inches on either side. Drop square 1 inch for spring of back and lorepart. H to M is front shoulder measure less A C. 22 to M is 1 inch more than K M. M to N is $^1$⁄$_6$ breast. N to O is same, plus ½ inch. Draw line of breast, N, through O to 22, and continue by dropping square ½ inch at K, and continuing on to bottom. The dotted lines show the necessary alteration for Cavalry.
WAIST BELT.
THE COLLAR
Draw line O D E. D to E is depth of stand at front; mark in ½ inch. D to O length of collar. O to A is the difference between stand and fall, plus ½ inch. A to B depth of stand behind. B to C the fall.
THE SLEEVE
First draw out an ordinary sleeve. 3 is midway between 1 and:. 3 to 4 is same as M S of forepart, less ½ inch. From 3, sweep from 4, as indicated. From 2. sweep from 4, as indicated. Measure from forearm pitch of forepart to neck point, and make 5, 6, of sleeve, same, plus ½ inch. Hollow ¾ inch as shown. Mark on sweep line from 6, 1 inch, and connect with 3. Mark out from 4 1 inch, and draw to 2, and hollow out ¾ inch.
The cut on the shoulder of the sleeve is covered with a shoulder strap of the same cloth as the garment, edged all round except at the shoulder seam, according to the branch of the Service. attached by an underpiece passed through a loop on the lower part of the shoulder and fastened at the top by a small button which passes through both under piece and shoulder strap; the top of the strap is triangular, the sides being about 1½ inches long, and the button 1 inch from the centre point.
HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY CLOAK
The cloak worn by the Household Cavalry is a very loose fitting S.B. garment made up as follows:—
1st Life Guards—Scarlet cloth, blue cloth collar and cape, rose and chain fastenings, scarlet serge lining to the waist.
2nd Life Guards - Scarlet cloth, with blue cloth cape, rose and chain fastenings, with scarlet cloth collar and scarlet shalloon lining to the waist.
Royal Horse Guards.—Blue cloth with ​let cloth collar and scarlet Rattinet lining. Shoulder straps of the same material as the garmnat, with small button of regimental pattern at the top.
SYSTEM FOR HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY CLOAK
System for cutting cloak is as follows: For ordinary 36 chest figure, select measure as for 42 chest, and proceed as follows: - Draw line O P, mark up from O to I 1 inch; O to D ½ depth of scye, plus ½ inch; O to F depth of scye; O to K natural waist; O to P full length, which runs about 50 inches for a figure 6 feet.
Square lines across from 1 D, F K, and P. O to A ½ breast; D to E width of back plus two swarms: square up from E to B $^1$⁄$_6$ breast plus ½ inch, B to C ¾ to 1 inch. Square down from E to G ; F to H is ¼ breast; F to I is ⅔ breast plus ½ inch; from F to J is the chest measure plus 3½ inches.
Sweep from point T by the front shoulder measure plus ½ inch: add 1 inch to that quantity ​and sweep again to point J. Where the two segments intersect each other locates the neck point V.
Now sweep again from point T by the over-shoulder measure less ½ inch, less the distance F B of the back; this will give the slope of shoulder, the width of shoulder being made to harmonise with the back. Mark out from V to W at right angles to V J, $^1$⁄$_6$ breast; mark down from W to X $^1$⁄$_6$ breast plus ½inch, and so obtain the gorge. Now draw line from W through J to S, and so get run of front: beyond which add on 2 inches for the button stand. Square down form H to M, and mark out from M to N and M to L about 3½ inches, drawing the line from H through L and N to Q and R; the width round the bottom edge should be 140 inches: and complete the diagram by adding on about 1 inch beyond S.
Five buttons are placed up the front and a short vent about 15 inches is arranged up centre of back. The dotted line indicates the position of the strap: a small tab is placed at the bottom of the front to fasten together at that part when desired.
Sleeves are drawn as usual with the exception that the width of the elbow is made full ½ breast and the width of cuff, breast plus 1 inch.
The collar as illustrated on this diagram is as follows: O to 8½ neck measure; O to 1½, 1½ inches; O to 2, 2 inches, which gives depth of stand; 2 to 5, 3 inches, which indicates the fall. The Cape worn with this is a very full one it being cut by placing the shoulder points of coat together and taking out a V of about 2 inches as per diagram.
FOOT GUARDS OVERCOAT
The Overcoat worn by the Foot Guards is made of the D.B. Frock style from grey cloth, with shoulder straps of the same material as the garment, with a small button of regimental pattern at the top; back straps are placed down back of pleat, 12 inches long with a point at centre and bottom, with buttons as diagram. Six buttons are placed at the front, pockets are put in the pleat; turn back cuffs are arranged at the bottom of the sleeves.
SYSTEM FOR FOOT GUARDS OVERCOAT
Draw linw O, N W, O to 1, 1 inch; O to D, ½ depth of scye plus ½ inch. O to F, depth of scye; O to N W, natural waist length. Draw lines at right angles to 1, D, F and N W. N W to 1, 1 inch. Draw line O to 1, and so obtain centre of back.
The back is cut on the crease. Shape back neck by making O to A $^1$⁄$_6$ breast. Mark off width of back, on line D E plus ½ inch. Square up from D, $^1$⁄$_6$ breast plus ½ inch, and mark out from to B to C ¾ to 1 inch. Draw line from E to N W, and hollow at G ½ inch. Mark the width of back at waist 2½ inches; F to H is ¼ breast, plus ½ inch: F to T is 2½ breast plus ½ inch; F to J is breast measure plus 3½ inches. Sweep for the neck point, V from 1, by the front shoulder measure, plus $^1$⁄$_6$ inch, less width of back neck; add 1 inch to this quantity, and sweep again from J. Where the two segments intersect each other locates the neck point.
Find slope of shoulder at U by sweeping from 1 by the overshoulder measure plus ½ inch, less F B of back.
Square out from V by J V ½ breast, and mark down from * to X $^1$⁄$_6$ breast plus ½ inch. From K to L is 1 inch.
The sidebody and forepart are hollowed ½ inch. Draw line down from H, measure up waist to measure plus 3 inches; hollow the waist seam ½ inch: sweep from K to bottom of sidebody. using E as a pivot, before drawing the line for the bottom of the forepart. The sewing to edge of the lapel is drawn straight, the width of the top is 3 inches, the width at the bottom 2 inches.
elbow being made ½ breast plus ½ inch; the forearm being hollowed 1 inch from that quantity. The width of the cuff is made $^1$⁄$_6$ breast plus 1 inch, and 1 turn-back cuff is made 4 inches at front and buck and 5 inches at the top.
MILITARY GREAT COATS. DOMINION OF CANADA
A Special pattern Overcoat is worn in Canada. It is cut from heavy milled cloth of the colour as for ordinary great coats, and is made D.B., with a stand and fall collar, high enough to fully cover the ears when turned up. In shape, it is of the body coat pattern, but made somewhat looser so as to fit over the Mess or Patrol jacket; it is cut In reach within a foot of the ground, glissade is used to line the sleeves, and cloth the body and skirts. Astrachan fur is used for the covering of the collar, black on the blue coats, and grey on the grey coats; the lapels are lined with similar fur on the inside, that is, the surface next to the breast when the lapel is fastened up; the fur on the collar and lapels is doubled over the cloth, forming an edging 1 inch wide on the reverse side; the edging is continued down to the waist scam. The cuffs are trimmed with similar fur, 5½ inches deep all round; four loops of 4 inch black square cord down the front on each side, each loop forming an eye in the centre, on top and below, and a crow's loot at the end. Black netted Olivett on each loop near to crow's foot, two Olivetts on the waist behind. A pocket is placed on the inside of the left breast, and pockets inserted in the pleats of skirt; three hooks and eyes are put on the collar, and shoulder straps of the same cloth as garment, with neat button at the top; fur used for Officers of Rifle Regiments is black.
The method of cutting is as follows:- Draw line O E, O to 1, 1 inch, 1 to A $^1$⁄$_6$ neck, plus ​½ inch, O to B ½ depth of scye, plus ½ inch, O to C depth of scye, O to D natural waist length, O E, fashion waist. B to F width of back, plus one seam, F to G $^1$⁄$_6$ breast plus 1 inch. G to H 1 inch; by these points shape back scye and shoulder seam. Draw a line from F to D and find point J, ½ or ¾ inch inside the dotted line. Width of back at waist is made up to
4¼ inches, so that it should be cut about 2½ inches from D to N, E to S being the same width. The bottom of the back is stumped, the centre of the back is cut on the crease; from C to M is chest at measure plus 4 inches, M to L, across vest plus ½ inch; from these two points sweep for the neck point V, and use front shoulder measure plus ½ inch less width of back neck: when sweeping from point L, add 1 inch to this quantity. and sweep again from point M where these two segments intersect each other locates neck point Y. To find point X, sweep from point L, by the over-shoulder measure: plus ½ inch, but minus the distance from C to 1 of the back, lower the scye about ¾ inch between line C M, and complete scye as shown. From Y to X is $^1$⁄$_4$ inch less than width of back shoulder A to H, C to K is ¾ breast plus ½ inch, take out 1¼ or 1½ inches from N to O. take out 1 inch from P to Q, and measure up waist to measure plus 3½ inches. Now use point F as a pivot sweeping from S to T, draw line across from T to W at right angles to line O E, hollow the waist at V about ¾ inch, and complete body part. The gorge being found by squaring out from Y M to X ​$^1$⁄$_6$ neck, and make X Z $^1$⁄$_6$ neck plus ¾ inch. The lapel is cut, with the sewing to edge of the same shape as front edge of forepart, the width of the lapel at top is 4 inches and 3 inches at the bottom.
For the skirt, hollow the waist seam a bare ½ inch, mark down from W to 4½ ¼ breast, and square for back pleat at right angles to 4½ T; mark off the length as desired. To get the spring of the front, measure down from T 3½, $^1$⁄$_6$, breast plus ½ inch, and square at right angles to 3½ W; add on at the front the necessary width for the lape, .making the length of front to agree, and complete as shown. The sleeve is cut as follows: O to 1, 1 inch, 0 to 5½ is width of scye, which may be found by deducting the width of B F from the distance from C to L, the hindarm seam of sleeve is located at the side seam, and the forearm at point L; to obtain the width of sleeve head measure round top scye from F to G, and across to L; apply that from 1 to 10; O to 5 is ½ distance from 1 to 10; measure off length off sleeve to elbow and cuff, hollow the forearm at elbow 1 inch, and make the width of elbow from 1 to 9, about ¼ of the breast. The width of cuff may be made $^1$⁄$_6$ breast plus 1 inch. For the under sleeve measure round the bottom of scye from F to L, and apply that quantity from 5½ to 8½, and complete as shown.
COLLAR
Draw line at right angles, marl: oil' from O to 8½ to size of neck, come up from 8½ 1 inch and shape the sewing to edge, O to 1¼ is 1¾ inches or the depth of stand required. 1¾ to 5½ to 4¼ inches or depth of fall required. From 8½ to 11 is 2½ inches, and from'll to 3 is 3 inches; complete collar as shown.
MILITARY TROUSERS.
The alterations, which came into force on the 21st of January, 1902, had the effect of abolishing gold lace from Trousers, with the exception of the Household Troops; the cloth stripes on the trousers, are now to be the same as those worn previously on the pantaloons. In the Army Veterinary Department, maroon cloth has to be worn instead of the scarlet cloth on trousers and pantaloons, and in all other branches of the service, the old style of undress trousers are now the only pattern. A special note was made in the Army Order stating that the trouser stripes should be sewn on, not let into the garment, which of course refers to the wide stripe and not to the piping on trousers worn by the Infantry.
The trousers worn by Field-Marshals and General Officers are made from blue cloth with scarlet stripes, 2½ inches wide down the side seams.
Trousers worn by the Head-Quarters, General and Personal Staff have a 1¾ scarlet stripe.
Trousers worn by the Household Cavalry for full dress are made from blue cloth with gold lace down the side seam.
1st Life guards—Two stripes each 1¼ inches wide with a scarlet welt down the centre.
2nd Life Guards—One stripe 2½ inches wide, blue in the centre.
Royal Horse Guards—One stripe 2¼ inches wide.
For undress the stripes are of scarlet cloth and are arranged as follows:—
1st Life Guards—Two stripes 1½ inches wide.
2nd Life Guards—Two stripes 1¼ inches wide, ½ inch apart, with a scarlet welt or piping between the stripes.
Royal Horse Guards.—There is a single stripe, 2½ inches wide.
Dragoons Guards Dragoons—Trousers are made of blue cloth with cloth stripe of the same colour as those worn by the men 1¾ inches wide.
2nd Dragoon Guards.—One stripe 1¾ inches wide made from white cloth.
6th Dragoon Guards—Two white stripes ¾ inch wide, with ¼ inch space between.
In all other regiments the stripe is 1¾ inches wide.
Hussars—Trousers of blue cloth (with the exception of the 11th. which are made of crimson cloth with two ¾ inch yellow cloth stripes. ⅛ inch apart).
13th Hussars—Two white stripes ¾ inch wide, ⅛ inch apart.
All other: with two yellow stripes, ¾ inch wide with ⅛ inch space between.
Lancers.—Trousers of blue, with two stripes. ¾ inch wide, with ⅛ inch space between.
17th Lancers—The stripes are white.
But in All the others they are of yellow.
Royal Horse Artillery.—Trousers of blue,with 1¾ inch scarlet stripe down the sides.
Royal Engineers—Trousers worn are made of blue cloth with 2 inch scarlet stripe down side seam.
Infantry Trousers Foot Guards at Levees and Drawing Rooms.—When full dress is worn in the evening, blue cloth, with gold lace 1½ inches wide down side seam: on other occasions, blue cloth with scarlet stripe 2 inches wide.
Infantry of the Line (except Highland and Scottish Regiments).—Trousers made of blue cloth, with scarlet welt or piping ¾inch wide down the side seams.
Highland and Scottish Regiments.—Trews of tartan of authorised pattern.
Scottish Rifles—Trews are of tartan of authorised pattern.
Rifles (King's Royal Rifles and all others).—Trousers of rifle green cloth with 2 inch black braid down side seams; but, for summer wear they are made from rifle green tartan.
​West India Regiments.—Trousers are made from white material for all ordinary occasions.
Chinese Regiments.—Trousers are made from white infantry pattern; from Oxford Mixture in cold weather, with red welt or piping down side seams; in hot weather kharki trousers are worn.
Army Service Corps.—Trousers of blue cloth, two strips of white cloth each ¾ inch wide and ¼ inch apart down the sides.
Army Medical Corps.—Trousers of blue cloth with scarlet stripe 2½ inches wide down side seams.
Army Ordinance Officers.—Trousers of blue cloth with two stripes of scarlet cloth $^{11}$⁄$_{16}$ inch wide and ⅝ inch apart at each side seam.
Officers in the Army Pay Department.—Trousers of blue cloth, with two yellow cloth stripes ⅝ inch wide ⅛ inch apart down each side seam.
Army Veterinary Department.—Trousers of blue cloth with maroon cloth stripes 1½ inches wide.
Provost Marshal, Military and Mounted Police, Governor of Military Persons.—Trousers of blue cloth with scarlet sloth stripe 1¾ inches wide dawn side seams.
Instructors of Army Schools.—Trousers made of blue cloth, with two stripes of scarlet cloth, each ¾ inch wide, with light blue cloth between ¼ wide.
INFANTRY TROUSER SYSTEM.
Proceed to mark off the length of side and leg; make O to 6 $^1$⁄$_6$ of seat, O to 9 ¼ seat, O to 12 ⅓ of seat. Square down from 6, and up from 9. Make A to to 10 ¼ waist plus ½ inch, and spring out from 10 to 13 as illustrated. Find the position of knee by measuring down from 6 to K, 2 inches less than ½ leg measure; from K mark off ¼ size of knee, on the side seam side of B, make the width of top side ¼ of bottom minus ¼ inch.
On the leg seam side of B mark the width of bottom ¼ bottom, minus ½ inch. Complete the draft of top side as shown. Take out 1 inch dress in the usual way.
For the undersides mark up from 9 * $^1$⁄$_6$ of seat plus 1 inch, from 9 to 13½, ½ of seat, add 1 inch to the underside at the knee and 2 inches at the bottom. Draw line from 12 up through *, add 4 inches of body rise. and find top of seat piece 2 inches from the seat seam.
Measure up the sent to measure plus 2 inches, add on ½inch of spring at the bottom, carefully adjusting the size of knee and bottom, and see that only 1 inch is allowed for making up and complete as illustrated.
CAVALRY OVERALLS.
Mark off the length of side and leg as illustrated. Mark from O to 6 $^1$⁄$_6$ of seat, O to 9 ¼ seat, O
to 12 ⅓ of seat, square up from 9 and down from 6.
A to 10 is ¼ of waist beyond which 1 inch is added 1 inch is also added beyond O. The knee is found in the ordinary way by measuring down from 6 2 inches less than ½ leg measure from K; mark out ¼ of knee plus 1 inch, and from B mark out ¼ of bottom plus 1½ inches. This will give extra width to the top of side. To find the run of the leg seam measure in front K ½ of the knee, and measure in from B ¼ of the bottom minus ¼ inch; complete draft of top side as shown; take out 1 inch of dress in the ordinary way. For the underside mark up from 9 ½ of the seat plus 1 inch, and out from 9 ⅛ of the seat; draw line from 12 through *, raise top of underside 4 inches above the top of fronts. To find the point of the seat piece come in 2 inches from seat seam.
Make up waist to measure plus 1 inch at the side seam. Measure up the seat to measure plus 2 inches. Make the knee of underside ¼ knee measure less 1 inch, and the bottom of underside to bottom less 1 inch, and draw line as shown. Add 1 inch to the leg seam at knee of underside so that the total size of knee when cut is 1 inch more than measure desired. Make up bottom to measure plus 1 inch, and complete draft as shown.
FOR SCOTH TREWS
The system for cutting Scotch trews is practically the same as we have already described for the Infantry Trousers; but there is this difference to be notes - they are cut without a side seam. Consequently the width of the knee is adjusted entirely at the leg seam, with the result that a rather hollow leg seam results; this, however, is helped as far as possible by manipulation, the side seam being shrunk at the knee and the lower part of the leg manipulated in such a manner as to get a hollow on the side seam (or rather where the side seam should be). rather than the leg seam.
THE SYSTEM
Mark off the length of side seam and leg scam, seeing that the bottom of the leg seam starts with a stripe. This is important, otherwise the stripes would not harmonise with those worn by other officers. In like manner, the vertical stripe should be arranged 3½ inches from the side at bottom. This having been. done, mark across from O to 6, ½ of the seat, O to 9 ¼ of the seat, O to 12 ⅓ of the seat. The centre line of leg is found at the bottom by marking in from the crease edge of the material, ¼ of the bottom plus 1 inch; and a line is drawn from that point by the point 6. The fork and knee lines being drawn at right angles to this construction line, from to measure across ¼ of waist and spring out ​to meet the crease edge at side as shown. Give a little spring above to provide for the necessary size of body. in measuring off the size of knee, measure from the crease edge inwards ½ knee plus ¼ inch;draw line from point 12 down to bottom of leg seam: the position of this latter point is placed ¼ of the bottom less ¼ inch from the centre construction line. To slope the top sides over the loot take out one or two fishes as indicated, starting directly across the top bar of the check and then seaming the edges together in this way the top lines of the check go over in the instep, and then proceed to mark out the under side. To find the angle of the seat measure up from 9 to 7, $^1$⁄$_6$ of the seat plus 1 inch; measure back from 9 to 13½ , ¼ of the seat; draw a line from 12 through 7, connecting it with point 13½, and spring out a little at top. Now measure up waist to measure plus 1 inch, and see that the seat measures up to ½ seat plus 2 inches; add on 1 inch at the bottom of the leg seam at underside and complete as shown.
ANOTHER METHOD.
There are some cutters who prefer to follow a somewhat different course to the above; they cut out an ordinary pattern as previously described for Infantry trousers, and they stretch the material into shape, so that it follows the side seam to the top side: they then place the pattern on with the first strip level with the bottom, and the first vertical strip 3½ inches from the side seam, and they then arrange the top and underside so as to dispense with the side seam, at least up as far as the hips, where it is permissible to take out a V, so as to adjust the garment to the size of the wearer at waist. Take fishes out as previously described of the top side over the instep in order to get them to fit snugly at that particular part; the fish being afterwards stored the material being stout enough to allow for this.
HINTS ON MAKING
It is customary to finish all trousers with it fob pocket only: it is, however, becoming more and more the custom to have them finished with cross pockets, there being less likelihood of the contents falling out than in the fob pockets. When lob pockets are preferred, however, it is generally desirable to finish them with a flap, with button and button hole. The military regulations with reference to the sewing on of the stripe down side seam are that they shall be laid on, rather than inserted with the seam: this, however, only refers to the wider stripe, and not to the narrow piping, such as is used on the infantry pattern. The plan followed for this being to cut a piece of scarlet cloth about twice the width of piping desired plus two seams. In the case of the infantry, the size of piece of scarlet required would be about 1 inch wide, this is generally hosted in with the ordinary seam, and by taking ¼ inch
CAVALRY TROUSERS.
It is customary to finish Cavalry Trousers with a foot-strap; it is very important that these should be kept in the proper position; the button should be well stayed before the strap buttons are put on the inside. The first important detail is to find the centre of the heel, which may generally be obtained by marking in 1 inch from the centre construction line of the system laid down in this work; from that point mark 3½ inches on either side, and that will give the position of the first strap button. It is customary to put on two strap buttons; the slope of the bottom having been carefully marked, put a piece of lining on the inside of the turn up and secure the strap button through it, before felling the turn up of the bottom. When this has been done, the linen may be adjusted to the outside in the neatest possible style, so as to secure altogether, and then trousers may be finished. In other details the usual rules are followed, and as we presume this work will he mostly read by those who have a practical knowledge of garment making, it is unnecessary for us to enlarge upon the more ordinary details of trouser making, suffice it to say that military garments must be smartly finished and must have a fair amount of form infused into them.
PANTALOONS
General Officers.—Pantaloons are made from blue cloth, with 2½ inch scarlet stripe down the side seams.
Headquaters and General Staff.—Pantaloons of blue cloth, 1¾ inches scarlet stripe.
Household Cavalry.—Pantaloons are made of white leather, for full dress: for undress, they are made of blue cloth with scarlet stripe.
1st Life Guards.—Two stripes each 1½ inches wide.
2nd Life Guards.—Two stripes each 1¼ inches wide and ½ inch apart, with a scarlet welt or piping between the stripes.
Royal Horse Guards.—Pantaloons have a single stripe 2½ inches wide.
Dragoons.—Pantaloons are made from blue cloth with stripes of the same colour as worn by the men 1¾ inches wide.
2nd Dragoon Guards.—One stripe ¾ inch wide, made of white cloth.
6th Dragoon Guards.—Two stripes ¾ inch wide with ¼ inch apart.
Hussars.—Pantaloons are made of blue cloth (11th crimson), with two stripes, ¾ inch wide, of yellow cloth ⅛ inch apart.
13th Hussars.—Pantaloons are made of blue, with two stripes ¾ inch wide, with ⅛ inch between.
Lancers.—Pantaloons of blue, with two stripes ¾ inch wide, with ⅛ inch between.
17th Lancers.—Two white stripes.
All others yellow.
Royal Horse Artillery.—Pantaloons of blue cloth, with 1¾ inch wide scarlet stripe down the side.
Royal Engineers.—Pantaloons are made of blue cloth, with a 2 inch scarlet stripe down side seams.
Foot Guards.—Pantaloons of blue with scarlet stripes down side seams, 2 inches wide.
Infantry (except {{sc|Scottish and Highland Regiments.)—Pantaloons of blue, with scarlet welt or piping, ¼ inch wide.
Scottish and Highland Regiments.—Pantaloons of tartan of authorised pattern.
Scottish Rifles.—Pantaloons of tartan authorised pattern.
King's Royal and all regiments of Rifles.—Pantaloons of rifle green, 2 inch black braid down the side seams.
Mounted Infantry.—Breeches worn are made of Bedford Cord.
Army Service Corps.—Pantaloons are made of blue cloth, with two white cloth stripes, each ¾ inch wide, ½ inch apart, down side seam.
Army Medical Corps.—Pantaloons are made of blue cloth with scarlet stripes 2½ inches wide down side seams.
Army Ordinance Officers.—Pantaloons of blue cloth with two stripes of scarlet cloth each eleven-sixteenths of an inch and ⅛ apart.
Officers of the Army Pay Department.—Pantaloons of blue, with two yellow cloth stripes ⅝ inch wide, ½ inch apart, down each side seam.
Officers of the Army Veterinary Department.—Pantaloons of blue, with maroon cloth stripe 1½ inches wide.
Provost Marshal, Military and Mounted Police, Governor Military Prisons.—Pantaloons of blue cloth, scarlet cloth stripe, 1¾ inches wide down each side seam.
CLOTH PANTALOONS
Mark off length of side seam and body rise in the usual way, mark from O to 6 ⅛ of seat, O to 9 ¼ of seat, O to 12½ ⅓ plus ½ inch; square up from 9 and down from 6; 6 to 3 is 3 inches, 6 to 9 is 9 inches: mark out from 9 ¾ inch, and so open the legs, drawing the centre line from 3 through ¾ to O. Mark down from 6, 1½, inches, for extra leg length and from this point measure off the length of leg to knee, small, calf and bottom. Make the width of top side at A, ¼ of waist plus 1 inch; add on 1 inch at O, measure across from C to E, ¼ of knee plus 1¼ inches; measure from O to T, ¼ of the bottom plus 1½ inches; and draw line straight through from E to T: continue the side seam as per dotted and dash line: now measure off the side from C to G, ¼ of knee plus the seam, H to 1 ¼ of small plus the seam; M to P ¼ of calf, plus a seam, O to V ¼ of bottom, plus a seam; complete top side as illustrated. For the underside mark up from 9 to * ½ of seat plus 1 inch, mark out from 9 to 14 ⅛ of seat plus ½ inch, draft seat seam as illustrated. Make top of seat seam 4 inches above top side; to find point of seat piece come in 2 inches from seat seam. Measure up the waist to measure plus 1 inch, and the scat to measure plus 2½ inches; now make up the width of underside at the various parts to measure, allowing for seams. These are made to fit closely at thigh, knee, small and calf A V is taken out of the underside at O which is provided for at W. I trust my readers understand that from H to J and H to K equals the ½ small measure plus two seams, and so on with the various parts.
SYSTEM FOR KNICKERS.
The method for cutting Military Knickers is as follows:- O to 6 $^1$⁄$_6$ seat, O to 9 ¼ of seat, O to 12 ⅓ seat; square down from 6 and square up from 9; from 6 to K is length desired, K to 4, is 4 inches, for bagging over. From 4 to V is ¼ size of bottom desired plus ¾ inch; from 4 to A is the same amount, from A to T is 1 inch, from B to is 10 is ¼ waist; spring out to 13, and complete as shown; add on 1½ inches of round opposite O; for the underside mark out from 9 to 7, $^1$⁄$_6$ seat plus 1 inch; draw line for seat seam from 12 through 7 to top, from 9 to 13½ is ⅛ of the seat, complete seat seam and leg seam as illustrated. Finish the bottom of leg at V; from A to U is same distance as from A to T; measure up seat to measure plus 2½ inches; measure up waist to measure plus 1 inch; make top of sent piece 4 inches above top side and make point of seat piece 2 inches from seat seam, and complete as shown.
For the knee band mark across from O to 15, I inch more than size of knee: O to to ⅔ of that distance, from 15 to 1 is 1 inch curve up from 10 to 1, O to 4 is 4 inches, 15 to 3 is 3 inches; draw line 1 to 3 at right angles to l0. and complete
HINTS ON THE MAKING UP OF KILTS. The making up of Kilts is a speciality which is very seldom tackled by the ordinary tailor, and in the course of conversation with a cutter engaged in one of the leading West End Military trades, he informed us that it was the custom of his firm to procure kilts from Messrs. Fraser & Co., of lnverness, who made a speciality of this garment, and supply the trade; hut, as this course may not always be possible, it may he well for us to give a few general hints to begin with.
The quantity of material required is about 14 yards, and it is made of sufficient length to reach to within 1 inch of the knee: the average length being about 15 inches. The kilt consists of three parts, or rather three different arrangements; there is an under apron on the left side, the killed part at the back, the apron on the right side. The apron on the right side is finished with three pleats, in order to prevent any gaping at that part, and in addition to this, it is the custom with those who have made a study of this particular garment, to arrange this part with a fair amount of spring
The fitting part of the kilt is the lining which is used for the foundation for the hips, which must of course harmonise with the shape of the figure. Those having small hips would require a straighter skirt at the top than those with large hips. The material used for the kilt is then hosted to this lining and is securely stitched to it. The strap is placed at the top of the right side with a corresponding buckle on the left.
SPAT PUTTEES
On the accompanying diagrams we illustrate how to cut the: Military Spat Puttee. These are
II.; the front part, diagram I. ; and the winding part shown at the bottom. The two latter are joined together at the side line A, diagram I. The quantities marked indicate inches for a medium size, but as they are made adjustable at the hook, one pattern will do for all sizes. The width of the Puttee part is 5 inches at front, where it joins the spat, and 4½ inches For the rest of the length. The length of the puttee is 3 yards, and at the end of this 2 yards of 1 inch wide worsted tape is sewn on.
Diagram I. shows the width of these parts with the foot straps attached and the steel hook, very like a trouser hook, and the join to puttee at A. Diagram II. shows the outside with the buckle sewn on to correspond with the straps, and three steel eyes placed one behind the other so that the hook can be fastened to either, and in this way the size adjusted to wearer's taste. The algae are turned in and stitched and the seams are stitched on either side. Wherever a stay is necessary, leather is used, but otherwise there is no lining. The end of the puttees is finished with a corner, the ends being turned down and stitched and on to the end of this the braid is sewn.
TERRITORIALS' UNIFORM.
The following particulars of the uniforms to be worn by the new Territorial Force have been published by the War Office, and as from these it will be gathered their general style is the same as those of the Regular Forces, with the use of "T" as a distinctive mark, and silver lace in place of gold lace for decorative purposes.
OFFICERS OBLIGATORY UNIFORM.
The only obligatory uniform for officers is service dress as authorised in the Dress Regulations for officers of the regular army.
FULL DRESS.
An authorised pattern of full dress for officers is laid down for each unit, but its provision is optional.
{c|FULL DRESS, WHEN WORN}} Officers attending Levées, Courts, State Balls and ceremonies at which royalty is present, and on the occasions mentioned in Table 1, page 277. King's Regulations, must wear the authorised full dress. Full dress will not be worn by officers parading with their men, unless the latter are wearing full dress or walking-out dress.
UNATTACHED LIST
Officers gazetted to the Unattached List of the Territorial Force will provide themselves with service dress only. When called up for training they will be permitted to dine at mess in plain clothes.
AIDES-DE-CAMP TO THE KING
Officers appointed aides-de-camp to the King will wear regimental uniform with a silver aiguillette, or the uniform laid down in the Dress Regulations for aides-de-camp to the King appointed from the Regular Army, with the exception that silver will be substituted for gold in the aiguillette, embroidery, lace, buttons, cocked hat, sword-knot, slings, and horse furniture The waist-sash will be of gold and crimson silk. The aiguillette will be worn with full-dress uniform by these officers when doing duty with their units.
The special uniform prescribed for aides-decamp to the King will only be worn when his Majesty is present in State, at levées, and when on duty as King's aides-de-camp at field days and other military ceremonies at which his Majesty is present.
An aide-de-camp to the King, who is also a Lord-Lieutenant or Deputy-Lieutenant of a County, will not wear the aide-dc-camp's aiguillette with his Lord Lieutenant's or Deputy-Lieutenant's uniform.
HONORARY PHYSICIAN AND HONORARY SURGEON TO THE KING
An officer appointed Honorary Physician or Honorary Surgeon to the King will wear on State occasions, in addition to the shoulder-belt and pouch, a silver aiguillette as for an aide-de-camp to the King, on the right shoulder under the shoulder-cord which forms part of his uniform.
ARMY STAFF.
Officers appointed to the staff of the army will wear regimental uniform with the special distinctions laid down for staff officers (set: Dress Regulations), silver being substituted for gold, except for officers of units in which gold lace is worn.
BRIGADE COMMANDER AND C.R.A
Commanders of brigades and Commanders of Royal Artillery, will wear the uniform laid down in the Dress Regulations for substantive colonels. Silver lace and white metal ornaments will be worn on all uniform and horse furniture by officers appointed from the Territorial Force. As an alternative, brigade commanders and commanders of Royal Artillery may wear the uniform in which they last served, with the badges of rank of colonel.
BRIGADE MAJOR.
Brigade Majors will wear the uniform in which they last served, with the staff distinctions ​prescribed for Brigade Majors of the regular forces, silver being substituted for gold on the aigullette, cocked hat, Forage cap, and gorget patches. The provision of the cocked hat and stall pantaloons for wear when the order of dress is "Stall in blue," is optional.
ADMINISTRATIVE MEDICAL OFFICER
Administrative Medical Officers will wear the uniform prescribed for Colonels of the Army Medical Service, silver being substituted for gold, or the uniform in which they last served, with the badges of rank of colonel. They will not wear the the aiguillette or other staff distinctions.
STAFF CAPTAINS, R.A
Staff Captains for Royal Artillery will wear the uniform in which they last served, without aiguillet or staff distinctions.
SERVICE DRESS, COMMANDERS OF BRIAGADES, ETC.
In service dress Comnmnders of Brigades, Commanders and Staff Captains, Royal Artillery, and Administrative Medical Officers, will wear the blue serge frock described in paragraph 739, Dress Regulations, but without gorget patches; pantaloons or overalls as in full dress. Drab service dress may be worn in camp and at manuauvres.
LETTERS ON SHOULDER STRAPS
Retired officers appointed in the staff of the Territorial Force will wear the letter "R" on shoulder-straps and shoulder-cords below the badges of rank. Officers appointed from the Territorial force will continue to wear the letter "T."
RANK BADGES AND LETTER "T."
Badges of rank will he similar to those for the regular army, and will be worn in silver on gold shoulder-cords, and in gold on silver shoulder cords. The letter "T" will he worn below the badges of rank on all shoulder-cords and shoulder-straps. In service dress the "T" in bronze will be worn on the collar of the jacket below the collar badge.
BADGES OF RANK, RETIRED OFFICERS.
Officers who have been permitted to retain their rank on retirement from the regular army, any army reserve officers will, when serving in the Territorial Force, wear the badges of their army rank, should such rank be higher than their rank in the Territorial Force.
FULL-DRESS UNIFORM, SILVER LACE.
Except in the cases of corps for which special uniforms have been sanctioned, and which join the Territorial Force as complete units of the same army, full-dress uniforms will, as far as possible, conform to that of corresponding units of the regular forces, silver lace and white metal buttons and ornaments being substituted for gold lace and gilt metal. Existing yeomanry regiments wearing gold lace and gilt buttons are permitted to retain these distinctions.
GOLD LACE
Units that desire, for any special reason, to obtain permission to wear gold lace and gilt ornaments, must submit applications through County Associations for consideration. Each case will be considered on its merits.
CORD AND LACE.
The cord and lace of officers of Infantry clothed in green or grey, will be of the same pattern and applied in the same form as that on the tunic of rifle regiments of the regular forces. Units clothed in green will wear black cord and lace; units clothed in grey, cord and lace or silver or other authorised material.
BELTS.
Officers of infantry units clothed in scarlet will, in review order, wear the web sword-belt with sliver-laced slings, and the crimson waist-sash. In units clothed in grey or green, they will wear black or brown belts of rifle pattern, with pouch belt of the same colour; the flap of the pouch will be edged with ¾ inch silver lace, and may, if desired, bear the regimental badge in white metal.
SPURS.
Mounted officers will wear steel spurs.
FORAGE CAPS.
Forage caps will be of the universal pattern. For yeomanry the bands and welts of the colour of the facings. For other services, as in the regular army. Peaks for field officers embroidered with silver embroidery; in units wearing gold lace, gold embroidery Highland kilted and Scottish trewed regiments will wear the Glengarry cap.
SWORDS.
Swords and scabbards will be of the pattern prescribed for corresponding units of the regular army, sword-knots of gold or silver lace, or brown or black leather, according to the belts.
"SAM BROWNE" BELT.
The universal pattern "Sam Browne" belt in brown leather is to be worn with the service dress by all units.
MIXED UNIFORM FORBIDDEN
The wearing of mixed uniform, i.e., service dress jackets with coloured trousers or trews. or vice versa, is forbidden.
MESS DRESS
Units may adopt a mess dress similar in design to that approved for corresponding units of the regular forces; the provision of this dress is optional to the individual officer.
SERGE FROCK
A serge frock, blue, green, or grey, according to the colour of the full-dress uniform, similar to that authorised for officers of the regular army, may be worn as an undress garment- Buttons regimental pattern; badges of rank in metal; no collar badges. This garment must not be worn on duty, or when parading with troops. Its provision is optional.
FROCK COAT.
Officers of the Territorial Force are not required to provide themselves with the uniform frock coat.
SADDLERY.
Horse furniture will be of universal pattern as laid down for the regular army, with white metal fittings; brass or gilt fittings in the use of units wearing gold lace. Throat ornaments will not be worn. Lambskins, leopard-skins, and saddle cloths are not compulsory.
BADGES.
The instructions in paragraph 553 in regard to badges, also apply to the badges worn by officers.
CHANGES IN PATTERN.
No deviation from authorised patterns of uniform is permitted, and no new patterns of uniform, badges, or horse furniture are to be introduced without previous submission to the War Office for approval.
RETIRED OFFICERS.
Officers retiring with permission to wear uniform are entitled to wear the uniform in which they last served, with the letters "T. R." on the shoulder-straps or shoulder-cords below the badges of rank.
NON-COMMISSIONED OFFICERS AND MEN ANNUAL GRANT.
An annual grant for each efficient non-commissioned officer and man is sanctioned for the maintenance of clothing and equipment, and will be paid to the County Association.
SERVICE DRESS COMPULSORY.
The provision of service dress is compulsory. The cost of service dress and the maintenance of equipment constitute the first charges against the grant.
DETAILS OF SERVICE DRESS.
Service dress will consist of:
MOUNTED SERVICES.
Jacket: Drab serge mixture, universal pattern. Pantaloons: Drab Bedford cord. Head-dress: Service dress cap of universal pattern. Units in possession of a slouch hat may continue to wear it in place of, or in addition to, the cap. Puttees: Drab; or Leggings: Brown leather. Spurs: Hunting pattern, brown straps. Greatcoat: Drab, universal pattern.
DISMOUNTED SERVICES.
<poem> Jacket: Drab serge mixture, universal pattern. Trousers or Knickerbockers: Drab mixture. Head-dress: Service dress cap, universal pattern. For Highland kilted and Scottish trewed regiments the Glengarry cap. Puttees: Drab, universal pattern. Scottish units wearing the kill, drab spats. Greatcoat: Drab, universal pattem. </poem
{c|CYCLIST BATTALIONS}} Cyclists battalions may adopt drab stockings and spats instead of puttees, and a drab waterproof cape in place of, or in addition to, the greatcoat.
FATIGUE CLOTHING.
Where considered necessary. fatigue clothing may be provided for use in stables by mounted men.
GREATCOATS
Units in possession of cloaks or greatcoats other than those of service dress pattern may be permitted to retain them until worn out, but no further supplies of obsolete pattern are to be purchased.
SCALE OF UNIFORM.
Two suits of uniform will be provided for each man, one of which must be service dress. The other may he as previously described, and be used as an undress or "walking-out" uniform.
{c|"WALKING OUT" DRESS.}} Undress or "walking-out" dress will consist of tunic or frock, trousers or trews, forage or Glengarry cap. Highland units previously authorised to wear the kilt may retain the kilt, sporran, and white spats instead of trousers or trews.
SASHES AND GIRDLES.
A sash will be worn by sergeants of infantry clothed in scarlet, and girdles by all ranks in the case of units wearing tunics, and similarly dressed to units of the regular army which wear them. Girdles are not to be worn with frocks.
EXPENDITURE OF GRANT.
No portion of the Government grant is to be expended on the provision and upkeep of any articles other than those detailed as forming part of the service dress or undress uniform. No other articles may be worn without the sanction of the County Association.
CHANGES IN PATTERN
Nu deviation from authorised patterns of uniform is permitted, and no articles of clothing or badges, whether provided from the Government grant or from private funds, will be introduced without War Office approval. Application for authority to adopt new uniform, or to effect any change, will be submitted, accompanied by samples, or, in the case of badges, by sketches, and it should be stated whether funds are available to meet the expense. Patterns, after approval will be sealed and returned to the units for record.
MIXED UNIFORM.
The wearing of mixed uniform, i.e., service dress jackets, with coloured trousers or trews, or vice versa, is forbidden.
METAL TITLES
The designations of the unit in black or white metal will be worn on the shoulder-straps of tunics and serge frocks, and in black or guiding metal on service dress jackets and greatcoats. in the shoulder-strap title the letter "T" will be placed above the name of the unit. Brass or gilding metal titles will he worn on tunics and serge frocks by units having permission to wear gold lace.
BADGES
Honours worn by units of the regular army will not be worn by corresponding units of the Territorial Force, and the word "Ubique" will be omitted from all badges and appointments worn by Royal Artillery and Royal Engineers. With these exceptions the distinctive badges are common to both forces. In the "Walking-out" uniform they will be entirely in white metal or bronze, except where special permission has been given for the adoption of gold lace and gilt ornaments.
GILT ORNAMENTS
No gold lace, gilt, gilding metal, or brass ornament will be worn with "walking-out" uniform, except in yeomanry units permitted to retain gold lace, and in such other units as receive special permission to adopt gold lace and gilt ornaments. Gilding metal buttons will be worn with service dress, except by units clothed in green, who will wear the black "rifle" button. Cap badges worn in service dress will be as worn in the regular army, subject to the omission of honours.
CHEVRONS
Chevrons and badges of rank will, in design, correspond with those worn in the regular army.
LACE AND EMBROIDERY.
Non-commissioned officer of units clothed in scarlet, grey, or blue, will wear chevrons of silver lace or of other material as may he authorised. In the Royal Engineers and in the Royal Army Medical Corps, chevrons will be made up on blue cloth: Army Service Corps on white cloth; in other units clothed in blue or scarlet, on scarlet cloth. In units clothed in green, non-commissioned officers will wear light green chevrons made up on cloth the colour of the garment. Chevrons with the service dress will he of worsted material; badges will be of metal or embroidery, as in the regular army.
EFFICIENCY STAR.
Men who have been returned as efficient four times may wear on the right forearm a star made of silk or worsted. The four returns of efficiency need not be in consecutive years, nor in the same unit. An additional star may be worn for every further aggregate of four years. A non-commissioned officer or man who has become entitled to wear a star or stars, and is returned as non efficient in an annual return of his unit, may continue to wear such star or stars.
Previous efficient service in the yeomanry or volunteers shall count towards the award of this badge.
GENEVA CROSS.
Medical units will wear the Geneva Cross as worn by regulars. For non-commissioned officers the edging will be silver embroidery instead of gold, and for buglers and privates white instead of yellow.
BADGES, SKILL-AT-ARMS
Badges for skill at arms, signalling, etc., will be of similar design, and worn in a corresponding manner to those of the regular forces, except that in all cases silver embroidery will be substituted for gold embroidery, and white metal for gold. They will he awarded under the conditions governing the competitions for the several badges.
UNAUTHORISED BADGES.
No badges other than those above laid down may be worn
UNIFORM ON DISCHARGE
Non-commissioned officers who have served ten years and upwards in and above the rank of sergeant, and who are allowed to retain their rank on discharge, may wear their uniform with the letter "R" in white metal or bronze above the chevrons on the right arm. They will provide the uniform at their own expense. This privilege does not extend to regular non-commissioned officers employed on the permanent staff.
SALE OF OLD UNIFORMS.
Worn-out uniforms will be disposed of under arrangements made under the direct instructions of County Associations. The conditions of sale provide that the purchaser shall not, either directly or indirectly, dispose of any tunics, frocks, jackets, trousers, or head-dresses, as garments, unless they have first been so altered that ​they cannot be recognised as having been used as uniform of the Territorial Force.
SUPPLY OF MATERIALS ETC.
Materials, cut-out unmade uniforms, badges, and head-dresses as used by the regular forces, may he obtained from the Royal Army Clothing Department at the rates quoted in the Priced Vocabulary of Clothing and Necessaries, if of the description authorised for wear by the Territorial Force. The supply of other articles and the making-up of the materials must he arranged locally.
PAYMENT FOR
The articles demanded will be supplied on payment, which should he made on receipt of the necessary receivable order from the War Office; or, if preferred, their value will he deducted from the balance of the grant due to the Association on the following November l. In special cases the value may, with the sanction of the Army Council, be deducted in three yearly instalments.
UNIFORM PARADES
Uniform will he worn at all parades, except that company parades, parades under sergeant instructors, and musketry may, with the authority of the officer commanding, be carried out in plain clothes.
UNIFORM ABROAD
Non-commissioned officers and men when attending banquets, receptions, or rifle meetings in foreign countries, will not wear uniform unless specially authorised by the Army Council.
PERMENANT STAFF
PERSONAL CLOTHING
Non-commissioned officers appointed to the permanent staff of the Territorial Force will retain all personal clothing in their possession at date of transfer.
UNIFORM.
The uniform to he worn by non-commissioned officers of the permanent staff will be that of the unit with which doing duty, and will be obtained on payment from the stores of the unit.
CHEVRONS AND BADGES
Chevrons and badges will be worn as under, and will be of the pattern worn in the unit.
Acting Sergeant-Major, four bar chevrons and crown on right forearm.
Squadron S. M. instructor, Battery S.M. ditto, Company S, M. ditto, Colour-Sergeant ditto, and Staff-Sergeant ditto, will all wear three bar chevrons and crossed rifles and crown on right arm above the elbow.
Sergeant-instructor, three bar chevrons and crossed rifles on right arm above the elbow. Crossed rifles will not he worn unless the non-commissioned officer is in possession of a School of Musketry certificate.
In the Royal Artillery, Royal Engineers, and Royal Army Medical Corps, a gun, grenade, or Geneva Cross will be worn in addition. With service dress, badges and chevrons will be worn on both arms.
CONCLUSION
I now come to the concluding paragraph and trust that what I have written and drawn will prove helpful to those who read this book. l have used every possible endeavour to have every detail correct, and have spared no pains to verify the descriptions by personal examination of many of the scaled garments. lf any mistake or inaccuracy has by any means crept in I must ask my readers' kind indulgence, for the scope of the work is very wide, and the number of specialities dealt with is of quite an exceptional character. I have to acknowledge with many thanks the kind help of my former pupil, Mr. J. Hawkesford, of the Royal Army Clothing Department, and of others, whose names I am not at liberty to publish, but who have nevertheless rendered me invaluable assistance in the preparation of this book.
I now leave it in the hands of the trade and remain
Yours fraternally,
W. D. F. VINCENT.
Whilst the last page of this work were in the press we recived notice that a new style of Military Overcoat had been approved by the War Office, an we have therefore availed ourselves of the first opportunity to inspect and photograph the same, with the object of preparing an illustration and a diagram, which we have now done, and issue as an appendix
When the Raglan shape Service Overcoat was first adopted, it was a well known fact that many prominent army officials entertained objections to it's style, though of course it had many patrons
Viewing the coat from the taliors standpoint, we were not greatly impressed with its styls; but although it was not perfection as regards appearance, yet one and all had to admit that it's design was a wonderful im-provement on the old greatcoats as regards ease and freedom.
In the new overcoat as sealed pattern of which has only recently been exhibited in the War Office, we have what we consider an ideal garment for the officer on active service. The good features as regards ease are retained, yet the coat is smartened and simplified beyond doubt.
We have availed ourselves of the privilige offered by the War office to tailors, if necessary to inspect the sealed patterns, and have taken full particulars of the sample coat and prepared a series of diagrams in order that others who are interested may be kept up to date in these matters.
SPECIAL FEATURES
The cut is the same for both cavalry and infantry, the skirts being made wider than the old style.
The material is similar to that of the old pattern, except for those who are privliged to wear Athol grey, such, for instance as generals and colonels of the Guards, etc.
The buttons are placed 6½ inches apart, and grade from 9½ apart at breast to 4 inches at bottom. Two ivory four hole buttons and corresponding tabs hold the lower part of skirt in position.
The pockets are of the curved flap shape, and are placed at 13 inches below scye.
The back has the usual expanding pleat at the top, seamed at waist, with a box fly opening below the waist-belt.
The shoulder-seam is not arranged high on the shoulder.
Shoulder-straps, with cloth piping of different colours for the different branches, as follows: ​Staff: Two broad stripes of red cloth with ½ inch serge light.
Cavalry of the Line: Edging ½ in yellow cloth. This piping is also used on the edge of the collar and cuffs.
Royal Artillery: Edging ½ in dark blue cloth; in the centre a loop of scarlet braid from the shoulder-seam round the upper end of button hole, The sides of the loop {¼ in apart.
Royal Engineers: As for Royal Artillery but with colours reversed.
Infantry: Edging ½ scarlet cloth
Army Service Corps: Edging ¼ in white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of dull cherry braid
Army Pay Department: Edging ½ in white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of marrone braid.
Provost-Marshal: Edging ½ in, white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of black braid.
Inspector of Army Schools: Edging ½ light blue cloth.
Badges of rank are worn on the shoulder. end of the strap.
The sleeves are of the ordinary style, with 6-inch loose turn back cuffs with edging as stated above for mounted officers.
The body part is lined with italian cloth to a level of 14 inches below scye. The sleeves are also lined with this same material.
The pockets are of silesia, There is an in-breast pocket on the left side, which is jeatted in
A sword split is put on the left side 6½ inches long, in a slanting position. It is jeated in and double stiched through without catch.
The waist belts are cut with a seam through the centre of the upper portion, and are long enough to gather in 8 inches of surplus cloth when buttoned over.
The collar is of the stand and fall variety (2 inches by 3¼ inches). It is cut in one piece, and has a cloth tab sewn under the fall, and made to button over or button back, so that four buttons are sewn on the under collar.
THE SYSTEM
Sample set of measures: Chest 36, waist 32, depth of scye 9, to waist 17, full length 48 inches (or 12 inches off ground), across back 7, sleeve 32, across chest 8, front shoulder 12½ over ditto 17. The chest and waist measure are taken over the vest, and the other over the jacket.
Add ½ to waist length, and ½in to the across-chest front shoulder and over shoulder
Square line O F L by 0 3.
O to tack 2 inches
O to 3 one third of depth of scye
From 9 to 22 half breast plus 4 inches
0 to 17½ waist length.
Add 2¼ inches beyond the line 0 for expanding pleat and fly opening
O to 3 one-twelfth of chest. Raise ¾in. and shape the back neck.
Apply the width across back, adding 1 inch.
Square the line at back scye, and spring out ¼ in on shoulder end.
Go back then across the chest plus $^1$⁄$_2$ from 22, and so find front of scye. Raise 1½ in.
Sweep C from H by the front shoulder measure less the back neck.
Make from 22 to C 1 inch longer than the first sweep, and so find the neck point.
Sweep B from H the over shoulder mea-sure less te distance from A to 9.
C to B ¼ in less than the back shoulder.
Rule the guide line to 1½ from B, and draw the scye, hollowing it ½ in, and sinking it ¾ in as shown.
C to D and D to E one-twelfth of chest.
Curve the centre line from D to 22
Rule through from 22 to bottom.
Place the vee ¼ in out from centre line and take out 1 inch at F.
F to G 5½ inches.
I to G 2 inches
Square down from 22; go out ½ in at waist, and then rule the centre line through to bottom.
The best method of finding the correct spacing of buttons is to first locate the holes.
Make F to top hole 5 inches, and from centre line to eye of bottom hole 2 inches, placing the four holes each 6½ inches apart.
Having done this, the edge can be drawn 1 inch outside, tapering to 2½ inches wide at M N.
From 9 to 10+$^1$⁄$_2$ is one-fourth of chest plus 1½. From this point square down and overlap the sideseam 1½, or make the width of back 20 inches. and front 28 at the bottom.
Add 1 inch below M.
Such details as tabs, pockets, belt etc., will be gathered from the diagram.
The belt, as shown by diagram 2, is cut two seams more than twice the width, viz. 5 inches, the seam being arranged along the centre of the under part,
THE SLEEVE
Square line O 26 and 0 5.
O to 1, 1 inch
O to 5½ as 8 to H, Diagram 1.
From 1 to 10 2 inches more than B to front pitch, Diagram 1.
O to 5 half 1 to 10.
Rule from 5½ to 5, and shape the top sleeve adding 1 inch of round.
Deduct the width of back at 10, and mark off the length of sleeve as usual.
Having found the length,slope the bottom 1½ in, and make the cuff one-sixth of chest plus 1½ in.
Suppress forearm 1 inch, and measure from 15 to 10¼ one-fourth chest plus 1¼ in.
Measure round underscye from pitch to pitch, Diagram 1, and apply such measure across from 5½ to line 8.
Hollow the Undersleeve 1¼ in.
The sleeve is cut without turn up, and the loose cuff 2 inches deeper than the finished depth.
THE COLLAR
Rule line O 9½, equal to the neck measure taken round O 3 and C E of Diagram 1.
Raise 2 inches at the front, and go back ½ in.
Curve sewing edge
Draw crease of drawing line at 2 inches down from O, and complete by adding the fall, 3¼ inches, as shown.
The diagram also shows the position of the tab and how it is buttoned back when not in use.
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Now Ready
Price 5s. 0d.
Richly Coloured by hand, 10s. 6d.
A MAGNIFICENT PLATE
illustrating all kinds of
British liveries and Civil Uniforms
Including
Full Dress Liveries. Ordinary Liveries. Firemen, Police, Town Crier, Stableman, Keepers, Coach-Drivers, Rink and Theatre Attendant's Uniforms, Page Boys, Bank Messengers, Motor Chaffeurs' Liveries, &c., &c.
Over Fifty Elaborately Drawn Figures.
Accurate in Detail. Attractive in Design.
Making a Work of Art of the Highest Class.
Size 33 1/2 by 22 1/2
As only a limited number will be printed, it should be ordered without delay.
Of all Newsagents, Bookstalls, Trimming and Woollen Houses or direct from the Publishers:
THE "TAILOR AND CUTTER"
RELIABLE MODEL PATTERNS
GENT'S GARMENTS. :
| Style | Breast | Each | Each | Set | Set |
| | | s. | d. | s. | d. |
| Dress Coat, step collar | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Dress Coat, roll collar | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Dress Lounge step collar | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Lounge, 3 seam round front | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Lounges with easy scyes | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Lounges working men's | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Lounges whole bk. for. front | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Lounges square shoulders | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Morning Coats | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Morning Coats with easy scyes | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Morning Coats working men's | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Morning Coats square shouldrs | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Shooting Coats | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Shooting Coats whole bk 3 seams | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| D.B. Reefers | 31 to 30 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Frock Coats | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Norfolk Jackets | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| S.B. & D.B Ulsters | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| S.B. & D.B Chesters | 1 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Raglans | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Yoked Raglan | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Livery Coats | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Chauffeurs Coats | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Rinking Tunics | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Linen or Flannel Shirts | 31 to 50 | | 5 | 6 | 0 |
| Step Collar Vests | 31 to 50 | | 5 | 6 | 0 |
| No-Collar Vests | 31 to 50 | | 5 | 6 | 0 |
| D.B. Vests | 31 to 50 | | 5 | 6 | 0 |
| Dress Vests | 31 to 50 | | 5 | 6 | 0 |
| Clerical Vests | 31 to 50 | | 5 | 6 | 0 |
| Cassock Vests | 31 to 50 | | 5 | 6 | 0 |
| Style | Breast | Each | Each | Set | Set |
| West End Trousers | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Working Men's W.F. | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 10 | 6 |
| Bell Bottom Trousers | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| Riding Trousers | 31 to 50 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| Farmers' Breeches | 32 to 44 | | 10 | 4 | 3 |
| Livery Breeches | 32 to 44 | | 10 | 4 | 3 |
| Baggy Breeehes | 32 to 44 | | 10 | 4 | 3 |
| Knicker Breeches | 32 to 44 | | 10 | 4 | 3 |
| Farmers' Leggings | 5 sizes | | 6 | 2 | 0 |
| LADIES GARMENTS. ||||||
| Style | Breast | Each | Each | Set | Set |
| | | s. | d | s. | d |
| S.B. Bodice | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| S.B. Jacket, close-fitting | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| F.F. Covert Coat, semi-fitting | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| F.F. Jacket, semi-sac | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| F.F. Sac. loose-fitting | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| D.B. Reefer. close bk. semi-front | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| D.B. Newmarket, close-fitting | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| S.B. Norfolk Jacket | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| S.B. Bolero, whole back | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| S.B. Eton, close back | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| S.B. Ulster. close-fitting | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| Princess Robe. S.B | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| F.F. Ulster. semi-sac | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| D.B. Sac, fitting, whole book | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| S.B. Inverness | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| S.B. Step Collar Vest | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| S.B. Riding Habit | 29 to 42 | | 10 | 7 | 6 |
| Style | Waist | Each | Each | Set | Set |
| Close-fitting Train | 22 to 28 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| Safety Train | 22 to 28 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| Apron Train | 22 to 28 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| Ride Astride Train | 22 to 28 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| Riding Breeches | 22 to 28 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| Riding Trousers | 22 to 28 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| Circular Skirt. one piece | 20 to 28 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| Five Gore Skirt | 20 to 28 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| Seven Gore Skirt, full | 20 to 28 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| Nine Gore Skirt, very full | 20 to 28 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| Corselet Skirt, seven gore | 20 to 28 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 0 |
| BOYS' GARMENTS ||||||
| Style | Breast | Each | Each | Set | Set |
| Lounge Jacket | 25 to 31 | | 7 | 3 | 9 |
| Reefer Jacket | 25 to 31 | | 7 | 3 | 9 |
| Eton. | 25 to 31 | | 7 | 3 | 9 |
| Covert Coat | 25 to 31 | | 8 | 3 | 9 |
| Vest | 25 to 31 | | 4 | 2 | 0 |
| Trousers | 25 to 31 seat | | 8 | 3 | 9 |
| Knickers | 25 to 31 seat | | 6 | 2 | 9 |
Every inch a size. Coat measures taken over vest. Seam allowances provided
Assorted Outfits from Customers' Own Selection supplied as follows, viz.: Seven 10d. Patterns, 4s. 3d.; Fourteen, 7s. 6d.; Twenty, 10s. 6d.; Forty two, £1. Five 1s. Patterns being reckoned as equal to six at 10d., or two at 5d. as equal to one at 10d
Patterns Cut to Special Measures, Price, Vests and Gaiters, 7d. Coats, Trousers, &e., Is. 2d.; Skirts, Riding Habits, &c., 1s. 8d.
Address: The John Williamson Company Limited. 24. Gerrard Street. Shaftesbury Avenue. London
THE TAILOR AND CUTTER
List of New & Standard Works on Cutting
PRACTICAL TAILORING, &c.
| Cutter’s Practical Guide: | Standard Price | Standard Price |
| Trousers | 10 | 0 |
| Vests | 7 | 6 |
| Lounges, &c. | 10 | 0 |
| Bodycoats | 10 | 0 |
| Overcoats | 10 | 0 |
| Ladies’ | 10 | 0 |
| Liveries | 10 | 0 |
| Clerical Garments | 7 | 6 |
| Clerical Robes,&c. | 7 | 6 |
| Military Garments | 15 | 0 |
| Juvenile Garments | 10 | 0. |
| Defects, Remedies, Trying-on | 10 | 0 |
| Cutting by Mode! Patterns | 10 | 0 |
| Shirts, Linen Garaments, | 7 | 6 |
| Economical Cutting | 10 | 0 |
| The "C.P.G." Complete | 6 | 0 |
| The Game Called Business | 2 | 6 |
| Point-to-Point System (Ladies’) | 10 | 0 |
| Pocket edition C.P.G | 7 | 6 |
| Economical Cutting (Pocket Ed.) | 5 | 0 |
| Practical Tailoring: | | |
| Part I, Trousers | 3 | 6 |
| Part II, Trousers | 3 | 6 |
| Part III. Vests | 3 | 6 |
| Part IV., Jackets 2. | 3 | 6 |
| Cutting Room Routine | 6 | 0 |
| Model Pattern Guide | 3 | 6 |
| Polytechnic Coat System | 7 | 9 |
| Breast Measure System | 6 | 0 |
| T.&C. Academy System: | Standard Price | Standard Price |
| Trousers, Breeches, Vests | 6 | 0 |
| Coats, Jackets, &c. | 6 | 0 |
| Liveries and Uniforms | 6 | 0 |
| Ladies' Garments | 6 | 0 |
| Overcoats and Miscellaneous | 6 | 0 |
| Complete | 30 | 0 |
| Weekly Numbers, 1 to 19 | 1 | 0 |
| The "Tailor and Cutter" Time Log | 2 | 6 |
| The Tailors Handbook | 2 | 6 |
| Ladies' Garments & How to Make Them: | | |
| Part I. | 3 | 6 |
| Part II | 3 | 6 |
| Women's Anatomy | 2 | 6 |
| Women's Anthropometry | 10 | 6 |
| Women's System (Tonkin) | 10 | 0 |
| How to Become a Cutter | 3 | 6 |
| Belfast's System Complete | 12 | 6 |
| The Art of Measuring | 2 | 6 |
| L.S.C. System of Dress Cutting | 2 | 6 |
| Reliable System Complete | 12 | 6 |
| Tailoring by Subdivision | 3 | 6 |
| How to Manage a Bussiness | 5 | 0 |
| "T. & C." Order Book and Diary | 1 | 0 |
| "T. & C." Fashion Plate Album | 5 | 0 |
| The Trimmers Guide and Cutting Instructor | 6 | 0 |
| Lyrical Interludes | 2 | 6 |
| "T. and C." Bound Vol for 1908 | 16 | 0 |
| "Ladies’ Tailor" for 1908ditto | 16 | 0 |
| "Women's Wear" for 1908ditto | 8 | 0 |
| Sixfold System of Cutting | 7 | 6 |
For Booklet containing complete index to the various parts of The "Cutter’s Practical Guide," send post card to the Publishers.
The above may be ordered through any bookseller, newsagent, &c., or direct from
The John Williamson Company Limited, 42, Gerrard Street, Shaftesbury Avenue, London. W.
* ↑ This appears to be a possible error in the original printing as G in the diagram would appear to be the natural waist.
* ↑ These worn by the men start 2½ up from the bottom, but officers start at the bottom.