# Once a Week (magazine)/Series 1/Volume 8/A visit to Mauna Loa

A VISIT TO MAUNA LOA.
There are few volcanic mountains that present a grander spectacle than this, upon the island of Hawaii, in the Sandwich group. Viewed from the sea it is majestic in the extreme, rising to the height of nearly 14,000 feet in one huge mass. The summit, not less remarkable for its height than for its peculiar dome-like form, is visible for an immense distance, but it scarcely conveys the idea of a volcano. Nevertheless, there is upon the top a crater of enormous size, said to be not less than six miles in circumference, and upwards of 800 feet deep in its shallowest part, vast abysses sinking down from that into unfathomable depths below. Other craters, more active but of smaller extent, exist upon the sides of the mountain, and frequently become the cause of alarm to the inhabitants of the island. The chief of these is on the eastern side, known as Kilanea, and has an elevation of little more than 4000 feet. From them eruptions are of frequent occurrence. As many as nine have been recorded during the last seventy years, but none have been more remarkable than one which occurred in 1859, although it scarcely exceeded in violence another that took place only four years previously. The crater of Kilanea was accurately described by Count Strzelecki, who visited it as long ago as 1838. This observer has remarked in reference to it that “Nowhere does the solution of the great problem of volcanic fires by Sir Humphry Davy receive a more palpable illustration than here. The access of water to the ignited masses of minerals, of alkaline and earthy bases, by which that great philosopher explained the convulsions of volcanic fires, is displayed here in most portentous, most awful, effects. It is only to those millions of vents all round the crater through which the superabundance of steam escapes—to the millions of fissures through which the sulphurous and sulphuric acids liberate themselves, that the preservation of Hawaii from utter destruction by the expansive force of steam and gases can be ascribed.” The terrible description of Kilanea also by Strzelecki will long give it an attraction to the voyager in the Pacific, and certainly a visit will at all times be well repaid.
The eruption of 1859 broke out first on the afternoon of the 23rd of January, and came chiefly from an opening in the northern side of the mountain, at an elevation of about 8000 feet; but the crater at the summit was also not inactive. The first indication of any convulsion of the kind was given by the formation of a dense, dark cloud which hung above the highest elevation, and became denser and more black, swelling in size, until towards evening a dull, lurid glare shot forth, and two bright streams of lava descended in different directions down the sides of the mountain. The news of the eruption travelled fast, and with a few companions I lost no time in finding my way to the scene of action.
At a distance of five-and-twenty miles, as nearly as we could judge, the prospect was exceedingly grand. A vast column of deep black smoke was being shot upwards to a height equal, as it appeared, to two-thirds that of the entire mountain, while a volume of liquid fire rushed from the crater in one deep red mass, and seemed to fall back in beautiful sheets of flame over the rocky crags beneath. Lurid streaks of light marked the course of molten lava down the sides of the mountain, and even from the distance at which we now observed it we thought we distinctly heard the crashing sound of rocks as they fell from precipice to precipice, and the crackling of vegetation as it withered and disappeared before the all-devouring fire. The sight served only to arouse our curiosity still more, and before morning we had with some difficulty got within ten miles of the most active crater. For some time previously we had lost sight of the chief part of the eruption behind a projecting spur of the mountain, and as we came somewhat suddenly upon the scene at last, the whole party stood in silent amazement and admiration at the gorgeous spectacle that was presented to them.
It was now the 3rd of February. For ten days had the eruption lasted, and its violence and terrific grandeur still increased. None who witnessed its effect can ever forget the impression then made upon the mind, nor can words describe the wondrous magnificence of the sight. From one opening of perhaps 1000 feet in circumference rushed forth a volume of fire not less than from 400 to 500 feet in height, carrying with it huge masses of red-hot rock, which, shooting upwards, descended again with a fearful crash, and, hurtling down the rugged mountain steeps, came at length to a rest which no earthly power can disturb. On the sides of Mauna Loa are now, cold and motionless, many monster witnesses to Nature’s powers which, upon the occasion of this great convulsion, took up a station that must continue there till all shall pass away.
For miles around, the rocks were spouting steam, hissing and roaring, and filling the whole air with pent-up gases from the great laboratory beneath; while burning streams of red-hot lava came rolling onward in stern, irresistible waves, now plunging in majestic grandeur over a deep precipice, or sweeping away the vegetation of the earth and shrivelling up huge forest trees in its relentless, solemn fury.
Our intention at first was to approach the mountain as nearly as would have been consistent with personal safety, and there to encamp until an opportunity should offer of ascending and examining more carefully the immediate locality of the eruption. But, learning that the lava stream had reached the sea at a distance of about forty miles from where we were then located, and recollecting the accounts that some of us had heard of a similar phenomenon that occurred in 1840, we determined to set out at once for the place indicated by our informants. This was a small village called Wainanalii, whose inhabitants subsisted chiefly by fishing about the beautiful little bay that fronted their habitations. We took with us some native guides and a week’s provisions, and after a rough and tiring journey reached our destination on the morning of the third day. The prospect was grand but fearful. Wainanalii had disappeared, smothered and swallowed up in an overwhelming flood of molten rock, that must have been in some ​Places a mile in width. The fatal stream had occupied eight days in passing from the mountain to the sea, yet still it rolled on, hot to redness, and irresistible in power. The first intimation that the unfortunate inhabitants had received was about midnight, when the tumultuous roaring of the fire first warned them of their fate. Many were surrounded, and perished in the liquid rocks, before they had time to escape, and all who survived saw not only their habitations but their means of living taken from them. The burning stream came steadily on. The village disappeared. The largest trees fell prostrate, and were lost before the all-devouring torrent, till at last, plunging forward with terrible force, it leaped over the last precipice, the very rocks melting before it, and rolled into the sea. The waters yielded, clouds of spray shot up, and steam and vapour filled the atmosphere, myriads of explosions shook the earth, and, with the hissing and struggling of the waters, made known the furious contest between these two opposing elements. Soon the little bay, that had been so short a time before a scene of industry and profit to many, became one sea of liquid lava. The ocean delivered up vast numbers of fish that had perished in the boiling surge, and even for many weeks afterwards, as we heard, the waters remained in a state of insufferable heat. The scene was grand, but most fearful. The complete, the utter desolation; the warring struggle between fire and water, the thundering tumult; the murky, deathly atmosphere,—all combined to produce an effect which only those who have witnessed such a spectacle can contemplate.
We remained in the neighbourhood of Wainanalii only one day, and then returned to the mountain. By the 8th of February the eruption had become less formidable, and, with a strong party of natives, we prepared to ascend to the crater. This destination we reached on the second day, the first part of our journey having been rendered tedious by a want of water. Early on the morning of the 10th we found ourselves in close proximity to the active craters, and from our station, somewhat above them, had a fine view of the locality. The fount of fiery lava had now ceased; but, with a crashing, surging noise, vast volumes of ashes, stones, and solid rock were being hurled from the interior of the volcano in a cloud of smoke and steam. Pouring from the lips of the craters were streams of red-hot molten lava, which waved and rolled and leaped with fiery spray down the mountain sides; and only half a mile away, vast fields of ice and snow contrasted strangely with the burning sea beneath. We noticed three craters, two of considerable extent, and one smaller, besides numberless holes through which steam and sulphureous gases were violently spouting forth, deadening all other sounds, and poisoning the atmosphere around. In various places, too, were pools of liquid silver, bubbling and foaming with a dull jingling sound, as though slowly and sullenly coming to repose after the mighty conflict.
We descended, following, as nearly as our safety would allow, the course of one of the principal streams of lava. At first it was bright white, flowing as water, and passing down with immense velocity, bounding over the rocks and lashing against opposing obstacles like the waves of the sea, now thundering on with unimpeded violence, now mounting up in molten spray, to fall in fiery showers into the stream again. As we got lower down the mountain, it lost much of its fluidity. Instead of a gleaming white, it now assumed a rosy tint, soon to pass on into a brilliant crimson. A thin flaky solidity now appeared upon the surface, and as this became thicker the current seemed stayed; but if the crust were broken the delusion disappeared, and through the aperture was seen the molten torrent hurrying onward with unaltered progress.
We now hastened downwards, and returned home on the day after our descent, with feelings very different to any we had before experienced, and which, if any would properly appreciate, they must pay a visit in the wild island of the Pacific—to the truly magnificent Mauna Loa.
L. E. E.