# Rambles on the Golden Coast of New Zealand/Chapter 10

BRUCE BAY, PARINGA, ABBEY ROCKS, OKURA, WAITOTO, AND JACKSON’S BAY.
CHAPTER X.
HE southern journey can now he accomplished overland, from Hokitika to Jackson’s Bay, on horseback. It is somewhat tedious, and difficult in places, and few travellers have undertaken the journey for pleasure. Deputy-Returning Officers, during an election, have ridden down and up in the course of twelve to fourteen days, and many others on special business missions have done the trip in even shorter time, though it is by no means an unusual occurrence for a traveller to be “stuck up” by floods for several weeks in journeying from either end. The overland trip is as yet attended with arduous labour and considerable risk. But, for any one who can readily spare the time and expense, this route presents many attractions in the way of lake, mountain, and glacier scenery. Having furnished my readers with a short sketch of the early days of Okarito, the Five-Mile Beach, Gillespie’s, and Bruce Bay, the last named being the farthest limit I have reached overland, I will resume from that point a narrative of a trip southwards in 1876, with some further particulars to the latest date.
Scarcely had the handy little steamer “Waipara,” which conveyed us from Hokitika, dropped anchor, and the whistle sounded, when, early as it was, lights were seen flickering along the shore, towards the south-east corner of Bruce Bay. The Maoris were at once astir, and with them their canine companions. There was as much clamour accompanying the landing of two boats containing a few bundles of hides and empty barrels, as might have attended Caesar’s first landing on the coast of Kent. It was still dark when the boats came alongside, and out of them came two small thatched houses, or objects which looked very like them. These were two elder members of the Maori community, carefully protected against the cold of the morning by being clad in flaxen cloaks, but barefoot and well wet by the landing of the boats. They were both weird, worn-looking men—one a chief, a gentleman of indefinite age, but a hardy sample of his race, capable of carrying weight for age with any one of his dusky brethren; the other with much more the expression of a Frenchman than a Maori, and with a nose and a cunning twinkle of the eye which fully justified his comparison to “Punch,” by which name he had been generally known, though not so designated by his respected parents. They were accompanied by a fine strapping Maori of North Island birth, who is married to the chief’s daughter, and who performed the duties of consignee, shipping agent, and interpreter, by receiving the goods intended for the Maoris, settling with the captain, ​and reading to his unlettered brethren the advices from the Maori shippers at Hokitika. There were others, young and old, representing four generations in one direct line, the younger representatives being hearty English-speaking lads, some of whom had in past time been of service to some of our passengers by keeping a party of five supplied with fish and fowl—principally eels and wood-hens. It was evident, however, that the Maori denizens of the district were not now altogether reliant upon its natural resources, for here on deck we had bags of flour, of sugar, and of apples, with a camp oven, consigned to a gentleman of the name of Pipihini Hotomona, and others of that ilk. It was gratifying also to know that the natives were not more indifferent to spiritual food than they were to temporal, for we were told that by eighteen months’ labour they had built a church, in size 20 ft. by 12 ft., for the preservation and decoration of which all that was necessary was a supply of white lead. Considering that it had been two years since a steamer had called at Bruce Bay, it was not surprising that ecclesiastical architecture had been of such slow development in these parts. An absence of nails, putty, and paint would have proved a serious circumstance even to Solomon, had such been necessary elements in the construction of the Temple.
Up to the present time the population is still very limited at Bruce Bay. One or two residents there, and at Hunt’s Beach, a little to the northward, have found the advantage of combining cattle-rearing with occasional digging. Their supplies have been very irregular, as it is only when the sea is calm that goods can be landed in boats. But let us proceed on our journey.
Having seen the goods all safely landed; having seen Mount Cook emerge from darkness into brightest morning light, a glorious spectacle; having seen the sea-birds in flocks, fleeting on the wing, and looking for their breakfast; having heard the bell-birds sing their matin hymns, and the parson birds intone, as no priest could, their morning prayers; and having, in the midst of Nature’s harmony, heard the steward’s bell, the instincts of fallen man suggested mutton chops, coffee, and condensed milk. We followed the example of the sea-birds with much less of the poetry of motion, and they followed in the “Waipara’s” wake as she steamed slowly round the bluff of Bruce Bay, Paringawards.
We sail out of it southward, passing immediately on the other side of the bluff which forms its best protection, a crescent-shaped light sandy beach, behind which men searched for and never found either Hunt or his prospecting claim. The one, it is supposed, made his escape in “Black Sam’s” sailing craft to Riverton from Paringa, the river which empties itself into another crescent-shaped bay immediately contiguous. The other is reasonably supposed to have been as mythical as the pretended prospector was mischievous.
As the outflow of the water of two great valleys, of a large lake, and an extensive snow-shed, the Paringa is often a river of considerable size, but as we passed it, it took its course quietly along the cliffs to the southward, with trees depending to the water’s edge. Formerly it came out at or near the middle of the beach; now—rude, amorous river—it “hugs the bluff.” There was a particular beauty about the foliage of the latter as we passed it under the bright morning sunlight, variegated as it is by the mixture of bush, and this was but the beginning of one of the prettiest pieces of coast-sailing that is to be seen on west New Zealand. By “pretty” is meant the immediate coast-line—not the mountains, whose magnificence alone forbids the application of the adjective. Commencing with a detached rock set among bright yellow sands, there is a succession of beach and bluff, of capes and cavities, for a distance of several miles, the sandstone, which seems to be the prevalent formation, being riven and driven by ocean action into strange fantastic shapes. To the northward the top of Mount Cook seems to touch the arch of heaven; southward the low line of cliff terminates in a long white beach, and beyond it chalky white cliffs stretched towards Arnott Point. The practical associations of the locality are that, towards Arnott Point in 1874, there was a small rush, and it was also reported that one or two nuggets, one weighing 7 ozs., had been picked up. The more picturesque portions of the shore-line provoked from passengers the remarks “What a splendid place for a sea-side picnic,”—“What an opportunity for the photographer,” but our captain broke the spell by the simple suggestion “sand-flies,” and by telling us a story of the experience of Mr Tait, photographer, in Hokitika, in the vain pursuit of the photographic art in the presence of these pests, which fed upon his face and hands, and followed him into his dark room, and damaged his plates and damned his enterprise. In their provoking presence, catching the shadow is too much associated with snatching the substance to make the study of photographic art a source of pleasure.
The Abbey Rocks, though not at once distinguishable as being situated at a distance from the shore, are a prominent landmark by the difference of their colour from that of the back-ground, which is of a subdued white, while they are dark and of eccentric form. The steamer swept around the rocks and entered a well-protected harbour, anchoring there, at no great distance from the shore, in seven fathoms of water.
At this time there was much talk of the layers of lithographic stone which had been ​discovered by Messrs Arthur and Docherty, and upon the development of which a considerable sum was subsequently spent, but without returning any reward to the enterprising prospectors and shareholders. So sanguine were the shareholders of this enterprise, that they had several large pieces—tons I may say—cut, prepared, and polished, and taken to the London market by Messrs Arthur and Stenhouse. Their expectations being too great, they missed the opportunity of finding a good market. Subsequent tests of the stone threw some doubts upon the quality, and though, at one time, there was a good chance of an English firm embarking in the project, all negotiations at last fell through. During the year of the Melbourne Exhibition, I had an opportunity, with Mr Arthur, of bringing this stone under the notice of several German visitors who were interested in lithographic stone quarries on the Continent. We also enlisted the support of some prominent citizens in Melbourne in the publishing business, who were willing to make a trial shipment, but the tests made by Messrs Sands and M‘Dougal at their Melbourne establishment were not so satisfactory as was expected. The samples forwarded were too small in size, and few were free from flaws of one kind or other. Possibly, however, when the large quarry is once opened out, this dormant enterprise may yet be found to be of value. But I am digressing.
We took from Abbey Rocks several pieces of this lithographic stone, and of so-called marble, as mementoes or exhibits when we returned to Hokitika. We brought with us also, inadvertently, and quite involuntarily, a following of sand-flies, which were not appreciated as an accession to the company in the steamer’s cabin, and seriously subdued the West Coast Times correspondent in a moment of poetic inspiration. He saw in the rocks the ruined abbey which the early surveyors were sentimental enough to suppose they resembled; he marked a miniature waterfall, the curling smoke from the fern cottage, the bright pebbles of the beach, the bush beyond, and the feathered songsters sitting on the boughs; he listened to the music of the waves and of those warblers; he was all but saying something about Paradise, when he suddenly slapped his ear—and missed—and swore.
Arnott Point, the next and last prominent headland in the passage to Jackson’s Bay, is distinguished by the number of detached rocks by which it is sentinelled. Beyond, the cliff’s slope down till they disappear, and are succeeded by an almost dead flat at the sea front—the longest stretch of low country to be seen on the coast. Immediately before reaching the flat frontage to the mountain range, through which flow the Haast, Okura, Waitoto, and Arawata, we see Ship Creek, where was found the remnant of wreck, which has been the subject of so much speculation and some scientific deduction. We suppose that since Captain Turnbull suggested it, and Messrs Hall & Co., of Aberdeen, confirm it, we must conclude that the wreck in question was portions of the stranded vessel “Schomberg,” carried thither by the influence of ocean currents; but with all respect to the scientific, it seems a pity we could not longer have enjoyed this maritime relic as a source of mystery and romance. It was so interesting to suppose that this wreck, with trees now growing among its timbers, was stranded here in years long past, ​and to speculate on the fate of the crew in this strange country, where people are few and far between, or not at all, and better not at all than few, since, meeting with a stranger, they took him in—their mouths—and, without reading or learning, marked and inwardly digested him. These ship captains are now-a-days so given to accurate investigations, that there is no chance for a second Sinbad or romantic Robinson Crusoe.
Mount Mosquito marks the vicinity of the Haast, and in the vicinity of the Haast there still is, and has been for many years, another Marks, a pioneer storekeeper in the southern district. The beach between the Haast and Okura was once a busy scene of diggers, of which mention has already been made in this volume.
The next river to be entered is the Okura. Like the Haast, it is not always accessible. Here the traveller is almost sure to meet, as we did, a man happy in his solitude, hearty in his hospitality, and as picturesque in character and costume as his strangely chosen, but beautiful situation—that man being none other than Joe Collyer, a name well known in these parts, and a “jolly good fellow.” Collyer officiates, at all times, as harbourmaster, signalman, boatman, wharfinger, guide, philosopher, and friend to all who visit the Okura. Some excellent land is to be found about the several branches of this river, and where it is swamp, the swamp is not of that description known as the “pakihi,” but a soil of good deep loam, capable by drainage, for which there are facilities, of being fitted for cultivation. The timber also hereabout is the best on the West Coast.
The Waitoto is the next river that is passed, six miles from Arawata, which is again three miles from Jackson’s Bay, towards which we are steaming, as the sun is setting. Our first view of the Arawata township was obtained as the sun was setting behind the peninsula, some of its last rays lingering in the little valley in which the town is situated. Generally, in regard to its surroundings, and particularly in regard to its water frontage, Port Arawata bears a close resemblance to the situation of Port Chalmers. It differs from Port Chalmers inasmuch as it is not situated within the shelter of magnificent headlands, nor do the hills surrounding it occupy the same position, according to the compass; but otherwise the contour of the country is strikingly similar.
Special correspondents have, in past years, written so much of Jackson’s Bay, and its prospects as a place of settlement, and so few of their hopeful prognostications have been realised, that we think it best to draw the veil, rather than enlarge, in these pages, upon its unsuccessful history as a special settlement.
Geographically, the cliffs around Jackson’s Bay are interesting by the variety of the formations—as a large area of the country around may be said to be. There are slate, sandstone, limestone, and some strange conglomerates. Between the two first bluffs we pass, there is a slate face in which there are numerous quartz-leaders, and at its foot there have been found, in crevices, several specimens of shotty gold. In fact, all the gold that has been got about Jackson’s Bay and headland—and there have been some pockets of peculiar richness—indicates by its character that it has not been carried any great distance, or subjected to the pulverising process of beach or river wash or wear. In one instance, 600 ozs. are said to have been got in a sort of natural ripple-box ​among the rocks south of Jackson’s, and 60 or 80 ozs. in another corner, where a miner was wont to wash out a few pennyweights daily. Even in front of Arawata township the beach was once worked. Small seams of coal have been found in various directions, but not in sufficient quantity to warrant the hope that this is the situation of a substantial seam. Whether it will yet be discovered in payable quantity or not, there is no doubt that the geological formation favours the assumption that coal, which was found by Mr Docherty in the country behind Abbey Rocks, extends also thus far south. The sandstone is precisely similar to that with which the Brunner coal is allied, and the formation is found to be more extensive than was supposed by Dr Haast, who assumed that some of the surrounding hills, now known to be sandstone, were of granite. Still further along the road, there is a face of fine limestone—superior to the kinds commonly found on the coast. Its appearance asserts it to be so; but practical test by fire and water has also proved it to be exceptionally excellent. Boulders of conglomerate—mammoth plum-puddings—are occasional objects along the beach, and for ornamental flooring or such purposes nothing could be more suitable; but, like the coal, galena, lithographic stone, and marble, and many admirable things along this line of coast which might be converted into domestic luxuries, they must remain unutilised, until available means are forthcoming for their development.
One noticeable feature in connection with portions of this southern district is the existence of the merry bell-bird. The same writer to whom we have referred in our introductory chapter, when on a literary mission to Jackson’s Bay, thus speaks of the sweet chimes of those pleasing melodists:—“How these little bell-birds improve the shining hours as the morning sun sends forth a flood of light over the snow-white mountain tops, across the bright blue waters of the bay, and athwart the wooded hill-sides where they are hidden, and yet so loudly heard. Each morning comes upon them like a new creation, and they hail it joyfully—ringing out sweet sounds which, with the modulating echoes, fill the whole air with melody. Sun-worshippers they must be, they are so sensitive to his approach, and so ceaselessly and universally eager to accord him praise. Everywhere—and as if it would be for ever—bells, bells, bells! And chiming so together, and with the notes of other warblers, that all would seem to be set in concert. The tui, too, sounds some smaller bell notes, and fails to comprehend the solemnity of the situation when he whistles and chuckles, in his own queer way, in expression of his own enjoyment. One morning's experience of such music—to drop from the sublime—is an excellent antidote for the bane of boarding and lodging in even the best hotels on this West Coast. Give us—oh, give us—the bell-bird before the Brahmapootra and the Guinea-fowl, the duck and the goose, and all other living instruments of torture to be found in hotel back-yards—found in the early morning, full of crow, quack, and gabble, when they are least wanted. The comparison is odious. Yes; let us listen to the bell-bird, and listen respectfully, for though he abounds in Jackson’s Bay, and in several similar situations, he has, since New Zealand first saw civilisation, strangely disappeared from many parts, and may do so, in a few years, from many more.” A hundred years ago, ​Captain Cook, in a situation now frequented, but then somewhat like ours on board the "Waipara," wrote this of the bell-bird:—"The ship lay at the distance of somewhat less than a quarter of a mile from the shore, and in the morning we were awakened by the singing of the birds. The number was incredible, and they seemed to strain their throats in emulation of each other. The wild melody was infinitely superior to anything of the same kind that we had ever heard. It seemed to be like small bells most exquisitely tuned, and perhaps the distance and the water between might be no small advantage to the sound." Other observers, such as Dr Buller, in his "Book of Birds," has written—"Its ordinary song is not unlike that of the tui, or parson-bird; but it is more melifluous. Its notes, though simple, are various and sweetly chimed. And, as the bird is of social habits, the morning anthem in which these sylvan choristers perform together is a concert of eccentric parts, producing a wild but pleasing melody." And then we are told by the same authority that "this bird, formerly very plentiful in every part of the country, appears to be rapidly dying out; in some districts, where it was a few years ago the commonest bird, it has now entirely vanished."
As the foregoing portion of this chapter deals principally with travels, circumstances, and events of by-gone years, I will conclude this portion of my publication with some account of what is being done in these southern parts, at the present time—the end of 1884. And as the present County Chairman, Mr Peter Dungan, has recently furnished the County Council with a report of an official visit made by him in September last, I will give, in a condensed form, hereunder, such particulars, gathered therefrom, as may be of interest to my readers. Payable gold is being got at the lower part of the County, some miners being at present working in the neighbourhood of Big Bay. There is also a good opinion held of the Gorge River in the same district, nice samples of gold having been obtained there. The Stafford Valley run, of 10,000 acres, is held by Mr C. Robinson; and the Cascade district, of 25,000 acres, by Mr W. Bruce. The population of Jackson's Bay district numbers about 200 souls. The settlers are chiefly engaged in raising cattle and dairy produce, and there is some mining going on along the beaches. There are 14 settlers, holding in occupation 500 acres of freehold land. Messrs Callery, Jackson, and Collins are lessees of the Arawata run, comprising 30,000 acres, There are about 180 acres of freehold land in occupation, and a run of 16,000 acres in the Waitoto, held by Nisson and Casey, two of its settlers. There are two settlements at the Okura and Turnbull Rivers, close to each other, and embrace a nice block of country. There are nine settlers, holding in the aggregate 900 acres of freehold land. The Turnbull and Okura Valley runs, comprising 30,000 acres, are held by W. Cuttance. There are some miners working on the beaches between the Okura and the Haast Rivers, and a few parties also on what is called the Black Lead. At the Haast there are 300 acres of freehold land in occupation; Messrs Marks and Stewart holding the Haast Valley run of 30,000 acres. From the Haast to Paringa is a distance of forty miles. This is a portion of the main south road. There are about twenty-five miles made over a rough and mountainous country which intersects the Blue River and Maori River Valleys, and at one point having ​an elevation of over 2000 ft. above the sea-level, snow being frequently met with on the journey. There were some trees down with a number of slips, but none of a bad or dangerous nature. With the exception of these small and temporary obstacles, the chief parts of the road are in fine order. There are two government huts in good repair in the ranges, but are not observable from the road by passers-by. A couple of finger-posts have recently been placed alongside the road, as a guide to where they are to be found. In times of bad weather such shelter would be appreciated as against the chances of being benighted on this wild and lonely portion of the road. The distance from the Paringa to Blue River is ten miles; a wire bridge of 170 ft. span has been placed over this dangerous river. Two miles of the Paringa side of the river, on the main road, a surveyed line of eight miles has also been laid off by the chief Surveyor, and terminating on the beach line between the Abbey Rocks and the Blue River. This track when made is to open up land for sale, and will be a great boon to the district in the way of travelling and prospecting. Good samples of gold have been got in the district at Bullock Creek and Little River. The country is rough and difficult of access. There are over 2300 acres of freehold land held among the settlers on the Paringa. The Maori River run, of 15,000 acres, is held by W. Duncan. A run of 1000 acres is held by R. Dee; the Blue River Valley run, of 10,000 acres, by E. Ryan. The Paringa Lake and Abbey Rocks run, of 20,000 acres, is leased by W. Stephenson; and the Paringa and Blackwater Valley runs, of 15,000 acres, are held by Power Brothers. There are a few settlers up the Mahitahi River, holding over 200 acres of freehold land. The Valley run, of 20,000 acres, is held by J. Condon. Several parties of miners are working on Bruce Bay beach. Mulvaney, Olsen, and party, after 15 months’ hard labour in bringing in a head-race a considerable distance, have got an unfailing supply of water, and a good mining property in their possession. Small parties of miners are also to be met with at Hunt’s and intervening beaches, to Gillespie’s. The Jacob’s River run, of 15,000 acres, is held by H. Borneman; Hunt’s River run, of 10,000 acres, is held by Ritchie; Karangarua River run, of 20,000 acres, is held by D. Macdonald; and Cook’s River run, of 20,000 acres, is held by E. Ryan and Little. There is here a homestead block of 5000 acres, on which are living three settlers, holding 180 acres. There are some miners working up the Cook’s River, and some good patches of gold are got now and again. There is a track for packing running up the side of Cook’s River for three or four miles. From Gillespie’s to Okarito, a few parties are working along the beaches. The Valley run is held by N. Gibbs, a miner and settler in the place. The Omeomaa Valley run, of 10,000 acres, is held by J. Gault. Waiho and Totara runs, 13,000 acres, are held by M‘Fetrich & Co. A few scattered parties are working about the Okarito Forks. The bulk of the miners about this place and at Mapourika are engaged in terrace working. There are 14 settlers in the Waitangi or Wateroa settlement, occupying between 800 and 900 acres of freehold land. The Wateroa run, of 20,000 acres, is held by Burroghs, Butler, & Co. There is another run in the district, held by W. Smith, of 10,000 acres. There is a tract of country of 25,000 acres in this locality, a large portion being good agricultural land, and a similar block of ​12,000 acres of clear flat land, the finest of its kind to be seen on the West Coast, lying between the Wanganui river; the main road through this place is fifteen miles from the beach line. The Little Wanganui Valley run, of 6000 acres, is held by Ferguson and Stege. The Big Wanganui run, of 20,000 acres, is held by H. Deidrich. There are nine settlers holding about 500 acres of freehold land. The Big Waitahi Valley run, of 10,000 acres, is held by Evans, Allen, & Co. The Happy Valley run, of 5000 acres, is held by Ferguson. The Mikonui run, of 13,000 acres, is held by Ferguson Brothers. There are 600 acres of freehold land held in the neighbourhood of the Mikonui. Some parties of miners are working on the beach line between the Wateroa and the Mikonui. Generally speaking, the roads down south are in good order. The main south road when completed will be a great benefit to Westland. It is at present finished to the Waikupakup River south of the Waiho—a distance of over a hundred miles from Ross. To the Paringa, a distance of over forty miles from the Waikupakup, the road is not yet made. From Paringa to the Haast, thirty out of forty miles of the road have been constructed, five miles of track deviation being made to the beach, and five miles along the coastline to the Haast. From the Haast to the Arawata (over thirty miles) the road is not made, but seven miles of the Arawata road lead to Jackson’s Bay, and the additional nine miles being made to the Stafford River will be continued to the end of the county, the whole distance from Ross to that point being two hundred and fifty miles.
The County Chairman, having visited these southern localities for the first time, while furnishing many practical suggestions to the Council, could not avoid concluding his report with remarking on the magnificent scenery presented at every turn. On reaching the Waiho, he makes note:—"The Waiho Glacier—commonly called the Francis Joseph Glacier—in the immediate vicinity, is a rare sight, indeed one of the world’s wonders to behold. The hot springs in the same locality are another wonder to witness. Their curative powers have been tested by many in the district, and found of great benefit, and may become famous some day. In fact, there is not a spot within the sea-girt isles of New Zealand that has so many rare and beautiful scenes as can be witnessed in the southern parts of Westland. Many parts of this unknown country, from its wild and rugged character, might truly be termed the land of mountain and flood. Its snow-capped mountains, lovely lakes, waterfalls, ravines, wondrous glaciers, hot springs, and sulphur springs, are worth to the tourist and admirer of picturesque and matchless scenery, a long journey to witness. But beyond all, and more marvellous to behold and to admire, is Mount Cook, of world-wide fame. Its snow-capped peaks, glittering in the morning sun, form a scene of surpassing loveliness; its majestic grandeur making it the monarch of the southern world.”