# Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 35/Journal of John H. Frost, 1840-43, part 1

JOURNAL OF JOHN H. FROST, 1840-43
Edited by NELLIE B. PIPES
Among the members of the great Methodist missionary reinforcement sent to Oregon in the Lausanne in 1840 was the Reverend John H. Frost, his wife and young son Emory. The Oregon Historical Society has recently received the manuscript journal of Mr. Frost, covering the dates from October 9, 1839 to July 20, 1863.
The journal begins with the departure of the ship from New York harbor. The trip was without incident and the entries from day to day are little more than records of the direction of the wind, the state of health of the passengers, who suffered a good deal from seasickness, and the devotional services which occupied most of their time. Occasionally they met another vessel, and mention is made of passing some French war vessels. They landed at Rio December 9. That city made an unfavorable impression on the journalist and he was "truly glad when the ship was ready to leave that place of wickedness." February 19, 1840, they were at Valparaiso, where Frost was surprised to meet an old acquaintance from Poughkeepsie, who was in business at Valparaiso. They remained in that harbor till the 22nd. Frost's visit on shore brought forth the comment, "This is called the vale of Paradise, but it is a filthy Paradise." On leaving Valparaiso they did not land again until they reached Oahu, April 10, 1840. After a very pleasant sojourn at the islands, with visits to the American Board missions and participation in the services for the natives, and an interview with King Kamehameha, on April 28 they left Honolulu and arrived at the mouth of the Columbia River May 21, and reached Fort Vancouver June 1, 1840. Frost, with W. W. Kone as associate, was sent to establish a mission at Clatsop Plains.
Wilkes visited his station in May, 1841, and recorded in his diary that Mr. and Mrs. Frost "possess little of the missionary spirit." However Mr. Frost remained at his post for three ​years, when, suffering from hardship, ill health and, as the journal intimates, a lack of harmony with Jason Lee, in February, 1843, he asked Lee for his discharge from the mission. As no vessel was leaving the river for the islands during the spring he was obliged to wait until August 21 to obtain passage in the Hudson's Bay Company's vessel the Diamond.
After his return to the states he continued preaching in various pastorates. In 1858 he went to Texas, and the last entry in the journal, July 20, 1863, was written at New Orleans.
Mr. Frost was born at Rochester, New York, March 25, 1805. His death occurred sometime between 1863 and 1866. His widow married S. H. Beggs January 1, 1866.
The portions of the journal to be printed in this volume of the Oregon Historical Quarterly relate only to his work in Oregon. In 1844, in collaboration with Daniel Lee, Frost wrote a history of the Oregon mission called Ten Years in Oregon. Frost's part of the book was written from the record contained in this journal.
JOURNAL
[MAY] 21 [1840]. Saw the Land at ½ past 6 A. M. The wind and weather very favourable. We crossed the bar at the mouth of the Columbia river very smoothly and dropped anchor in Baker's Bay at about 2 Oclock P.M. where we found the Vancouver, a vessel belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company. A party of us went on shore in the afternoon, and took a ramble, and upon our return we found Br. Daniel Lee on board, from the mission, having with him the Chenook chief and wife, and several of the tribe. Also one Indian from Waskopam, and one from Willamette. By Br. D. Lee we were informed of the death of Br. Shepherd, which was sad news for us. He also informed that about 1000 Indians, belonging at Waskopam, and between that and Vancouver had become praying men, many of whom he supposed had embraced religion. Which intelligence was very cheering to us all. We supped on a very fine Salmon, sent us by the Companies ship, and after prayrs retired.
​22. This is a stormy morning. The Ocean is very rough, but we ride safely at anchor, having, through, the mercies of God escaped the dangers of the mighty deep. Cleared up in the afternoon and became very pleasant. Brs. D. & J. Lee left in a canoe with all the Indians for Vancouver.
23. Very pleasant morning. The wind being favourable, orders were given to get under way, so at 11 Oclock A. M. hoisted anchor, and bore away for the river. Mr. Berny from Fort George, and an Indian of the Chenook acted as pilots. The Vancouver is also preparing to get under way, she is bound to the Russian settlement with flour, and wheat. Commanded by Capt. Dunkin. Cast anchor at Fort George. Mrs. Frost & Emory with others of our company went on shore. A number of Indians came on board to trade baskets, Beeswax &c. Mr. Berny very kindly furnished us with some very good milk for tea & coffee &c.
24. Weighed anchor and proceeded up the river. We went but a short distance however before the ship ran aground. Preaching at 10 by Br. Judson from 2 Peter 3 & last. at 2 by Br. Kone from Ps. 2.8.
25. Through this day we have made about 3 miles up the river. The Bark Columbia & a schooner are coming down, both in sight. Here we find plenty of salmon, price from 10 to 15 for one shirt. Here are also an abundance of sturgeon. Several of us went on shore and amused ourselves with shooting at a mark.
26. The schooner passed us at 6 A.M. We made but little progress today.
27. Mr. Hall, from the Sandwich Island mission came on board frm the Columbia with others by whom we recd intelli​gence from the upper country, as Mr. H. had been up to Walla-walla to convey a printing press thither. The first in the territory. Mr. H's Lady was in company with him for her health, they are on their way to the Islands.
28. Mr. Latty mate of the Schooner above mentioned, came on board, and piloted our ship up as far as pillow rock where we anchored for the night, and some of us went on shore.
29. Today we recd a pilot from Vancouver and a note from Br. Lee, informing us of his safe arrival, and kind reception. Doct. McLaughlin sent us some fresh bread and butter from the fort. Quite a treat. Today we reached Pugets Island.
30. Today we succeeded in ascending the river as far as the Willamette river. We passed near the shore in one place, where there was an Indian burying place. They bury their dead in the following manner. The corpse is laid in a canoe, and the canoe is placed on the steep bank of the river. In that place there was 10 or 15 canoes in sight. When we arrived off the lower mouth of the Willamette, Mt. St Hellen stood to the North of us, with its round snow caped top towering above the clouds, presenting a most sublime appearance.
31. Sabbath. Very pleasant morning. Preaching at 10 by Br. Olley from Ps. 119.94. at 2 by Br. Parish from Rev. 22.9.
June 1. Arrived at Vancouver this afternoon. After the ship was anchored Dr. McLaughlin came on board, was introduced to the Mission family, some of the Brethren, and the Capt. went on shore with him. Emory quite sick this afternoon.
7. Sabbath. Since last monday we have been engaged in receiving our goods and they have not all come on shore yet. We are very comfortably situated at the Fort. In Dr. McLaughlin we find a very kind friend. So we have abundant reason for thankfulness. Last thursday evening we were appointed to our different stations, which were as follows. Br. Richmond was ​appointed to Puget sound and with him Miss Clark as teacher. Br. Hines and Kone to Umbaqua. Dr. Babcock, Br. Brewer & Miss Ware to the Dalls, Brs. Campbell, Parish, Judson, Olley, Raymond, Waller and Abernethy with their families, and Miss Phelps, Lancton and Philips to Willamette. Myself and family to Chenook, Several families left for Willamette on friday last. We had preaching today by Br. Richmond from Matt. 11.29 and by Br. Hines from 2 Cor. 5.12.
11. All hands busily engaged in making preparations for their departure from Vancouver except my family and Br. Abernethys. Today Br. D. Lee and Miss Ware were joined together in the bands of matrimony. And in the afternoon the most of our company left, some for Willamette, and others for the dalls. I joined the company for the dalls. Our fleet consisted of two canoes, and a large row boat. We proceeded but a short distance when we found our boat to be in a leaky condition. It was therefore determined to camp for the night, which we accordingly did.
12. This morning we corked our boat, and set out again on our voyage. Our sail was very small, and in some places the current was very strong, consequently we proceeded but a short distance through the day.
13. This morning we obtained a good mast and prepared a large sail. And after all things were in readiness, we gave the boat in charge of the Indians and proceeded forward. We reached Prairie Du Terre, and a little before sunset we camped for the night.
14. Sabbath. I preached to the brethren from 1 Peter 3.18. We had a prayr meeting morning and evening and Br. Lee talked to the Indians. It was a profitable day to our souls. It caused us to rejoice exceedingly to hear the Indians call upon God with so much apparent fervency.
19. We got nearly all our goods to the head of the Kaskades ​today. Wrote to Mrs. F. Here we met Br. & Sister Perkins with their little boy in good health.
21. Sabbath. Br. Lee preached from 1 Thess. 5.19. after which we crossed the river and held meeting with the Indians at their village. We returned and after dining Br. Perkins preached from Eph. 5.15,16.
24. Today we arrived at the Dalls, which I think is a very important station for missionary opperations. And Br. Perkins & Lee are labouring very successfully.
28. Sabbath. I preached in the evening from Phil. 4.13. And administered the Lords supper to the mission family. We had a very profitable season.
July 2. We left the Dalls for Vancouver, and arrived at the Kaskades on the evening of the 3rd. And in the afternoon of the 4th we arrived at Vancouver. Found my Family in health. Dr. Richmond had left on the 2nd for Nasqually, consequently all had left except Br. Abernethy's family Br. Raymond & Miss Philips. These were in health except Mrs. A. Miss Philips was recovering from a fall from a horse.
5. Sabbath. I preached in the morning from 2 Cor. 4.5. And Br. Lee in the afternoon from Heb. 12. 1.2.
10. Set out in the afternoon in company with Br. D. Lee for Fort George in a canoe with two Indians & after travelling most of the time day and night, we arrived at Ft. George on Sabbath morning the
12. We spent the Sabbath with Mr. Berny.
13. We visited the Chenooks & Shicalish tribes. we camped at Chenook on Monday night and on the
14. We crossed the mouth of the river, and visited the Clatsops, after which we returned to Mr. Berney's. I selected a spot on which to set my future residence, should the Lord spare and prosper us. We took lodgings again with Mr. Berney, and having engaged 3 Shicalish Indians we designed to set out for Vancouver the next morning with two canoes, for I had bought a canoe of the Clatsop chief. But as it often happens, during the night 2 of our Indians took a canoe, not ours, and of course ​came up among the missing in the morning. So on the morning of the
15. We found ourselves with two canoes on our hands, and but one Indian to help us, and by the by when we asked him if he was ready to go his answer was "Wake" that is No. So fickle are these untutored men of the woods. Not being able to obtain help at the Fort, there being no Indians there, we got one of our canoes towed up by a man who was salting salmon 3 or 4 miles above, where we expected to get men. And Br. Lee and myself hoisted sail in the other canoe. But when we arrived at the place above mentioned no men. We succeeded, however, in getting an old Indian, and his wife, to take one of our canoes up 3 or 4 miles farther to an Indian house, where we were assured we would obtain men. But to our disappointment when we arrived at the house, we were told that all the men were gone, some down the river, and the rest 4 miles up the river. Well what must be done now? Night was coming on, and we were very anxious to get on. So I proposed that 4 women should go with us up the river to the place where the men were. And we succeeded in stipulating with them for a handkerchief a piece to undertake the trip. So with our fair crew we put out from shore, amidst the good humored chit chat of those on shore, who laughingly said, "two women to one man." But it would astonish any one to see with what dexterity these women would man age the canoes, the wind and tide was against us, and the waves ran very high, but our women took us up to the place proposed in safety, where we obtained the help we needed. There we found 5 or 6 Indian doctors performing over a young woman, and a child, who were sick. These doctors pretended that by their sorcery they had extracted 2 small sea snale shells, and several bunches of hair, and feathers which were wound up with strings, from the breast and stomach of the Patients. So stupid and superstitious are these poor Indians. When the moon rose we put out from shore and on the
18. We arrived at Vancouver. Found Mrs. F. in health. But Emory has the simptoms of the ague & fever.
​19. Sabbath. Br. Lee preached in the morning from 2 Tim. 2.11-13. I preached at 3 Oclock from Rom. 10.17.
26. I preached from Isa 45.22. Br. D. Lee Preached in the afternoon from 1 Cor. 9.24.25.
AUG [UST] 2. At Vancouver during the week past waiting for a boat, which returned from Walamette falls on friday. This morning at ½ past 10 I preached to the people from Prov. 3.6. Perhaps for the last in some time. They were quite attentive and I trust the word produced some good effect.
3. Left Vancouver with my family, and all my effects for Fort George this afternoon.
4. Spent the night at an Indian village just below the upper mouth of the Walamette, where, being obliged to lodge in an open boat without any tent, we found the mosquitoes so anoying that I was obliged to sit up nearly the whole night and keep them off of Mrs. F. and Emory while they slept.
7. We arrived at Fort George on the morning of the 6th. Here we met with a kind reception from Mr. Birnie and family. Had all my goods safely stored, and put up our bed. So after having a comfortable nights rest we feel very much refreshed. And here I would record my gratitude to my Heavenly Father for our safe arrival at the place which is to be the field of our future labours.
9. Sabbath. Having brought down some boards with me, Mr. Birnie & myself wraught hard yesterday putting up a partition in his house that we might be accomodated with a bed room. Mr. Birnie having kindly opened his house for our reception until I can have a house built. Br. Solomon Smith arrived this morning from the Walamette with his family. He designs to settle near me, for which I am thankful, hoping that they will be of service to the mission, as He and his wife enjoy religion. Of course our circle of Society will also be increased by his coming. I preached at 10 Oclock to the souls composing the family of Br. Birnie. Br. Smith, my own family, and one young man besides. Text. Job 21, 15.
10. Mr. Birnie, Smith, and myself went across to Young's ​Bay to find a place on which Mr. Smith could make a farm. We found a very good place on Youngs Bay near Point Adams, after which we returned quite fatigued with our ramble.
11. Commenced getting the Chicalish and Chenook languages. Last Saturday Mrs. F. commenced a school consisting of Mr. Birnie's children, and our Emory. Today Br. Smith's two children attended. There is disturbance among the Indians in this region at present, there has been several killed of late.
13. By my almanack I learn that the moon was eclipsed in the Latitude of Albany & New York today commencing at 0$^h$ 26$^m$ A.M. Middle of Eclipse 1$^h$ 51$^m$ A.M. and ended 3$^h$ 16$^m$ A.M. At this place the eclipse took place on the evening of the 12th and it appeared to be at its hight, or middle, at about 10$^h$ 30$^m$ Evening.
The number of Chenooks in 1838 as given to Mr. Birnie by Chanamess the chief of that Tribe was as follows:
| Chanamess' Village | Chanamess' Village | 2nd Village | 2nd Village | Upper Village | Upper Village |
| 15 | Men | 27 | Men | 31 | Men |
| 11 | Women | 36 | Women | 41 | Women |
| 2 | Female children | 15 | Female children | 11 | Female children |
| 16 | Male childrendo | 9 | Male childrendo | 16 | Male childrendo |
| 14 | Slaves | 27 | Slaves | 17 | Slaves |
| 58 | | 114 | | 116 | Total 288 |
16. Sabbath. Preached from John 12.26. My congregation consisted of Mr. Birnie's family and my own. But we would not despise the day of small things.
17. A young man at this place expressed great anxiety on Saturday last, and also on yesterday morning, for the welfare of Kenneth McKay, who was near the pillar rock, five or six miles from this, salting salmon. And having obtained leave of Mr. Birnie, he set out yesterday morning to see him; but to his astonishment, when he arrived at the place, he found McKay murdered in his bed, and he also found an Indian boy that was with him lying dead out side of the tent. Being in great agitation, he reembarked with the body of McK. and the goods which were left, leaving the body of the boy lying on the shore, and arrived ​at this place a quarter past eight in the evening, and made known unto us the distressing intelligence. After securing the corpse &c. Mr. Birnie became concerned for our safety. Seeing we had but two guns about the house, and but three men to use them. He therefore sent two Indians across the river to Chanamess, the Chenook chief, for men and arms. This request was speedily complied with, and we were soon favoured with the presence of Chanamess and 15 or 20 warriours, three of which he sent on an express to Vancouver, and the rest remained as our safe guard. This morning the young man above mentioned made a rude coffin for the dead body, and on examination we found that the poor man had been shot through the chest, the ball having entered the left breast and passed out be low the right shoulder. Thus was one of our fellow men, in the enjoyment of health and strength, ushered in a moment, and that too while in his defenceless hours, into the world of Spirits, to appear in the presence of his God. At 3 Oclock P.M. we committed his mangled remains to the silent tomb, to await the sound of the last trump, when that corruption shall put on in corruption, and that mortal shall put on immortality. And should not this despensation of Divine Providence be a solemn warning to us to be also ready. For we, truly, know not in what hour the Son of Man cometh. At the Grave I read the funeral services of our church. And Mrs. F. and myself sang the hymn commencing "O God our help in ages past" &c.
At the time the above bloody act transpired the American Brig Maryland from Newburyport Mass. commanded by Capt. John H. Couch, was lying but a short distance below the place. The murder of McCay was unknown to Capt. Couch and his men until they were informed thereof by a line from me.
23. Sabbath. Preached to my usual congregation with the addition of Dr. Tolmie from Vancouver, who came down with a party of men to avenge the death of McCay, and several from on board of the Maryland which is lying at this place. Text ​Ps. 16.8. Mrs. F. is afflicted with the ague & fever at present. Emory not well.
24. This morning a party of men left in a large boat, and canoe to cut off the Indians who instigated and committed the murder of McCay. They took with them two women which were found yesterday in an encampment on Young's bay, These women were taken as guides, being wives to the men who were implicated in the crime, they of course knew where their hiding place was. It was quite trying to my feelings to see the boats depart, the men, about 26 in number, all singing, and keeping time with their paddles, while a sister of the two women, left in a canoe for young's bay with a child of one of the women, and two female associates, crying and singing the Indian death song as they proceeded.
26. Dr. Tolmie returned yesterday in the afternoon with a part of the men, having seen nothing of the murderers. The Dr. left again in the evening to join Dr. McLaughlin who is lying at Pillar rock on board of the Bark from Vancouver. This difficulty with the Indians will have a tendency to retard my opperations among them. But it is necessary for the safety of the community that they should be punished. It is very evident that the reason why any farther depredations are not committed, is not because they love the whites, but because they fear punishment. There are no doubt a few exceptions.
27. A canoe arrived this morning from the party of men who are in search of the murderers, bringing in it a slave girl wounded, a ball having entered her arm between the shoulder & elbow, and lodged under her shoulder. The men in the canoe also informed us that one of the murderous slaves was shot, and another woman was slightly wounded in the arm. However necessary it may be to avenge the death of the white man, and to prevent these savages from shedding more blood, yet it is painful in the extreme to be a witness to these scenes.
28. Most of the party returned this morning without having effected anything farther relative to the to the apprehension of the Indians after whom they were in search. The slave girl of which I made mention yesterday as having been been brought in wounded, expired today at half past one Oclock. Upon farther ​tion we found that the ball had entered her arm below her shoulder, and passed out at her back. After she was brought in I applied a poultice to the wounds, and administered such medicine as I supposed might benefit the poor creature, but all in vain. She is beyond the reach of her heathen masters, and although she has died in heathenism, yet her case is far preferable to that of those who die under the full blaze of gospel light, and whose hearts have, notwithstanding their superior privileges, remained unsanctified through the truth. I cannot but utter the prayer of the Psalmist in this place. "Oh let the wickedness of the wicked come to an end."
29. This morning Dr. McLaughlin came down from pillar rock with his men, bringing with them an Indian who was with the slave, one of the murderers who was shot on the 27th, and as there was no doubt that this Indian was as deeply implicated as the slave he was consequently adjudged worthy of death according to the laws of Great Britain & America. He was therefore, by order of the Governor, hung by the neck until he was dead, at 1 Oclock P. M. This was the first execution of the kind I ever witnessed, and I hope it may be the last. Two of the companies' vessels came in this morning, and are lying near us in company with the Maryland, so that this has somewhat the appearance of a maratime port.
30. Sabbath. Preached from Ps. 97.1. My congregation consisted of the usual number with the addition of Capt. Dunkin of the Vancouver, and three men from the Maryland, and Doctor Tolmie. What effect my discourse had upon the minds of my hearers the Lord only knows, but I trust it will not be labour lost. I would bear in mind that the great head of the Church has promised that "He that goeth forth weeping, bearing precious seed, shall doubtless come again with rejoicing, bringing his sheaves with him."
[Some pages of the journal are missing, but Frost's activities at this time may be learned from Lee and Frost's Ten Years in Oregon. On September 1 he left Astoria with Dr. Tolmie and ​Calvin Tibbetts to visit Solomon H. Smith. By crossing Young's Bay in a canoe, going up the Skipanon River to within a mile of the plain, crossing the plain on foot to the ocean and walking along the beach they reached the mouth of the Necoxie Creek. Here they found Smith, who was living in a log cabin, 15 feet square, without roof or floor. The next day the party returned to Astoria.]
[September] 18. Day before yesterday the 16th I received a letter from Rev. J. Lee dated the 4th of August. also one from Br. Abernethy & Br. Campbell.
For several days past there has been an Indian woman near this, on the beach, with a sick child. Last night it died. And this morning it was pitable to see the poor woman going down the beach, with her dead child wraped in a mat &c to bury it. Her wailings as she proceeded were loud. The corpse was slung on her back. After three or four hours had elapsed she returned as she went, alone, singing the death song. After a short time I passed by the place where the child died, and saw the mother of the deceased sitting on the ground and another squaw cutting of [f I her hair with a knife, by which sign they testify their sorrow for the dead. ...
19. Yesterday I received a letter from Br. Hines, by which I learned that the Umbaqua station was abandoned, or rather that, in view of the few Indians remaining there, and the many difficulties to contend with in order to have access to them, it was determined to form no station at that place. Today I wrote a letter to Brs. J. Lee, Hines and Abernethy.
20. Sunday. Preached at the usual hour from Rev. 6. 17. Present, besides our two families Capt. Couch, Mr. Johnson & Mr. Knight of the Brig Maryland. Mr. Johnson from the Willamette, and one half breed Canadian. Shall these all stand in the great day of his wrath?
23. Received 2 letters from Br. Campbell today, and one ​from Br. Abernethy by Mr. Sukley, who arrived from Walamette and takes passage on board of the Maryland for the States.
28. Since my last date my trials have been great. All that we have passed through since we left our native land has been nothing compared to this. The cloud is dark, intensely dark. My only hope is in God. Left Mrs. Frost and our little boy at Fort George, and set out for Willamette in a boat, in company with a young gentleman of the ship Forager, which has just arrived from England. My object in going to Willamette was to procure assistance to put up a house for myself, which was a very urgent matter, as the rainy season would set in soon, and we were wholly dependant on Mr. Birnie for a cover, who had, in fact no room to spare. In the afternoon after we left Fort George, we met Mr. Smith who was returning from Willamette; by whom I recd a letter from Rev. J. Lee. Mr. S. informed me that I had the privalege of employing him to assist me in building; but after consulting we concluded that it would be a very difficult task for us two to put up a house for my accommodation, especially as his own family was not provided for for the winter. Therefore I determined to proceed to Willamette and if possible obtain more help. Se we set out again, and on the next day but one, we arrived at Vancouver. The next morning I engaged two Indians to take me, in a canoe, to Champoag, which was 15 miles from the W. Mission. In the evening we arrived at the Willamette Falls, where Br. Waller was building a house, for the accommodation of his own and Br. Beer's family. Here the two Indians who came up with me became dissatisfied, and would go no farther unless I would give them more wages. I did not feel willing to comply with their avaricious requirements, however, and consequently permitted them to return. Here I was perplexed for some time before anyone could be obtained to convey me the remaining part of my journey by water; I succeeded at last, by taking Br. W's hired man and one crippled Indian, to get on as far as Obishaw's landing, which is a few miles below Champoeg, which occupied the whole day. Obishaw is a Canadian, he was not at home, but his In​dian wife was very friendly, and permitted us to lodge in their cabin, where I spent, considering all things, a very comfortable night. The next morning I set out on foot with my budget on my shoulder, for the residence of Mr. Calvin Tibits, about two miles distant. Mr. Tibits23 is a native of New hampshire, had been in the country about 8 years, and had talked of going down to settle on the Clatsop shore, where I had determined to locate. After breakfasting at his house and receiving fresh encouragement from him relative to his moving to Clatsop, he kindly furnished me with a horse to ride to the Mission. I arrived at Walamette in time to dine. Found some of the Brethren sick, and others but just convalessant. I made known to the super intendent the object of my visit, and the necessity of being furnished with help in order to get up a house before the rainy season set in &c. On Sabbath evening, the members of the mission, by previous request, having assembled, it was determined that Br. Kone should accompany me, and be my future associate. And now we set about making preparations for the removal of Br. Kone's Family and goods, which was not an under taking of small moment; as 160 miles intervened between us and Fort George, and in addition to this Mrs. Kone was in delicate circumstances at the time, and they wished to take all of their furniture with them if possible. But no time could be lost. My family was anxiously waiting my return, and in order to be shielded from the rains a house must be built in a few weeks. On monday we packed up Br. Kone's goods, and on tuesday we obtained two canoes and men, so that on thursday we commenced our passage down the river. Br. G. Hines ac companying us. The largest canoe was loaded with goods, and manned with three Indians and one Sandwich Ilander. The other canoe contained some goods, Mrs. & Mr. Kone, Br. Hines and myself, and one white man,24 and one Indian to work the
23 Came to Oregon with Wyeth in 1832; died on board the Forrest, re turning from the California gold mines, in August, 1849, and was buried at sea; ms. in Oregon Historical Society.
24 Lee and Frost, 280, give this man's name as Paddy. He was prob ably John Horregon, who was commonly known as Paddy Roland. His death, as a result of intoxication, is recorded in the Oregon Spectator, February 18, 1847. The paper states it is the first death ​canoe. We descended the river somewhat pleaasantly till to wards night when we arrived at a rapid, where as we were in the rear of the large canoe, we discovered that she was approaching the floodwood at the bottom of the rapid, and in a moment more she struck a snag, upset, broke to pieces in a moment, when trunks, boxes, pails, barrels &c and Indians were all sub merged, and floating down stream. We decended the rapid in safety and effected a landing on a small Island; as soon as possible unloaded our canoe, and set out with it in order to pick up the floating goods. In the mean time the Indians had succeeded in getting several of the articles on shore, so that with the canoe we supposed that all the goods were safely landed; but our tent was lost, so we were obliged to lodge on the pebbly island, with out a covering. We slept in safety, however, and in the morn ing we looked arround to see if all was safe; but to our grief we found that one of Mr. Kone's travelling trunks, containing the most of Mrs. Kone's dresses and many other valuables, our box of tools, pots & kettles &c &c were missing. After consulting, we concluded to send down to Mr. Johnson's25 for his canoe, and the remainder of us were to go in search of the lost goods. We did so and found the tent and a few other articles, but the trunk & tool box, pots & kettles &c &c., could not be found. Here we continued another night, but were not obliged to lodge with out a tent. The next morning the canoe, after which we had sent the men, having not arrived, we determined to load the canoe which we were in possession of, and take Mrs. Kone and proceed to Chumpoeg, and leave Mr. Kone to take care of the remaining goods until the canoe, for which we had sent, should arrive; we accordingly set out, and after proceeding down the river about two miles we met the canoe going up; the arrival of which, was no doubt, hailed with joy by Mr. Kone in his lonely situation. We arrived at Chumpoeg in the afternoon, and Mr. K. arrived before night. So instead of finding ourselves at Van
from that cause in Oregon, and hopes it will "suffice as a warning to others."
25 No doubt William Johnson, who afterwards became the first settler at Portland; see Reed, "William Johnson," Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXXIV, 314-23. ​couver as we anticipated when we left the mission, we were only 15 miles, across land from the place we left on thursday. This being Saturday, we determined to pitch our tent and remain until Monday morning. Mr. and Mrs. Kone took up their lodgings at Mr. McKay's and Br. Hines and myself abode in the tent. On sabbath Br. Hines preached from thes-e words, "We love him, because he first loved us." On Monday we set out with two canoes leaving some of Mr. K's goods in the care of Dr. Tolmie, to be sent down to the falls in the Companie's boat. We succeeded in reaching the falls on monday evening and made the portage, after which Br. Hines & myself overhauled a barrel of pork, by moon light, salted it anew, and put on brine, and then we retired to rest. The next day we decended the river nearly to its mouth, or its conjunction with the Columbia, where we encamped for the night. The next morning we struck our tent and proceeded on our way, and as our canoe was loaded very deep, I was fearful to cross the Columbia, but our men assured us that unless we crossed immediately we would not be likely to cross that day as the wind was rising. So we ventured, not being willing to be delayed, and reached the other shore in safety, and proceeded up the river, within two miles of Vancouver, where Mr. & Mrs. Kone and myself went on shore and walked to the Fort on foot. We arrived at the Fort about ten Oclock, where we were entertained, as usual, with much kindness. Dr. McLaughlin furnish ed us with a boat, with which to decend the river to Fort George, and the next day we loaded our boat, and endeavoured to get indians to go down with us, and bring the boat back; but we could obtain only one, with whom, however, we determined to proceed; but when we arrived at the river to embark we found the boat to be in a leaky condition so that we were obliged to put our goods on board of the Kadborough [Cadboro] the Companie's schooner, and return to the fort for the night. Here we had the company of Mr. Rogers,2"' a young man in the employ
26 Cornelius Rogers came to Oregon in 1838 and was attached to Spalding's mission. In 1841 he resigned and went to the Willamette Valley; he married the daughter of David Leslie and he and his wife were swept over the falls at Oregon City and drowned February 2, 1843. ​of the mission in the interiour; who was waiting for the Co. to furnish him with a boat, with which to return to Wal a Wal a. So we could sympathise with each other, in our dependent situation, and unite in prayr to the God of missions for preservation & prosperity in our soul trying work. While conversing with Mr. Rogers, he made this observation, "This endeavouring to do so much, with so little means, is bringing the missionary cause into disrepute." Our being so dependent upon the Hudson Bay Co. for means to carry our designs into effect was the cause of the above remark, and I have since that time, been induced to come to the same conclusion. Here we are, professing to be sustained by our patrons at home, for the purpose of converting the heathen. The H. B. Co is engaged in the trafick of the country. They have means for the purpose of carrying forward and executing their plans; but they are called upon, from time to time, by missionaries for their boats &c &c. Well, they are professedly gentlemen, and will not refuse, if it is possible for them to render the assistance required, but by accommodating the missionary they are straightened in carrying forward their own plans, and say to themselves, and to one another, these men are professing to do much for the Heathen, but surely they are very lame in all their operations; they can effect nothing with out our assistance; and as they, the Co. design, as far as possible to monopolize all the trade of the country, they will make the necessity of the missionaries turn to their advantage. Whereas if the missions were in possession of means of their own, in the use of which they could, without embarresment accomplish their purposes, much less money would be expended in performing a given amount of work, for two reasons: first, that time would be saved which must be employed in going to the Co for this & that; and when the object was accomplished, there would be no draw back. And at the same time the missionary would not have the mortification to hear it said that we will assist you; but we are very much driven with our own work, or that the Co. has assisted you when they were very much driven with their own business, and now you should do so & so. Perhaps the objector may say, the missions are in their infancy, and therefore it can not be expected that they can do that at the ​present, which they will be able to accomplish hereafter. Very true; but why undertake more than can be accomplished in the use of the means provided? Does the A.B. or the M.S. of the M. E. Church expect that their missionaries are to go to this or any other country and be beggers, or to be thrown upon men with whom they have no connection, and who have no sympa thy in common with them, for aid, and without whose aid they cannot move at all? Certainly not. And it is my humble opin ion that this mission will never prosper to any extent so long as it is dependant upon any source of this kind for aid. But to return to my narative. The next morning I waited on the Dr. feeling at the same time, that we were rendering our selves very troublesome to him and his associates; but necessity will drive men to the performance of many things, which they would not do under other circumstances. The Dr. said he would furnish us with another boat, and one man; but I must engage to return the boat immediately, so we loaded the boat and re paired to the river again for embarkation, the Dr. and Mr. Douglass accompanying us. When we arrived at the river shore Mr. Douglass asked me where my crew was. I informed him that they were present, pointing to the Indian mentioned above, and to the man the Dr. had just furnished. 0! said Mr. D. that will not do, and walked away after the Dr. who was returning to the fort. After conversing with the Dr. a short time they returned, and the Dr. called for two men more, who were soon upon the ground. All this time I was looking to God for assistance, and was truly thankful that, although I could not in concience ask for one man, the Lord was disposing the hearts of those gentlemen to assist us, when they saw our neces sity. We having now a competent crew, and all things being in readiness, the Dr. bid us farewell charging me to send the boat back ""doubly quick," I now felt, that if the Lord prospered us in our voyage, I should see my family again in two or three days, whom, when I left them, were not in health, Mrs. F. hav ing been afflicted with the chills and fever for some time, and by a note recd from Mrs. F. when I returned to Vancouver, I learned that Emory was quite unwell. This being friday, we hoped to reach fort George on Sabbath ​morning in time for Divine service; but in the afternoon it commenced raining, and we had a very gloomy day, our progress was slow. On Saturday, it was also stormy, and notwithstanding we were busy all the time, yet on Saturday night we found that one half of our voyage remained yet to be performed. And as night was approaching we determined to go ashore & camp. but as the shore was bold and rugged we, with difficulty, found a place large enough to pitch our tent, and where we did camp, if it had been very high tides, we must have been afloat before morning, but notwithstanding, it was very damp, so much so, that it was with great difficulty that we were able to kindle a fire, we passed the night in safety, and the morning found us in health.
This being Sabbath morning, we would gladly have spent the day in the worship of God, but after considering the subject for some time we judged it to be duty to decamp and proceed down the river until we could obtain a safe camping place. We accordingly embarked, and proceeded to the Catlamet Islands, where we found, by the direction of our indian, a very good camping place; there we continued until monday morning, when with the ebb tide we made our way to fort George. I found my family in a better state of health than I had expected, & was happy to meet them once more in the flesh, and had abundant reason to be thankful to almighty God for the many mercies shown me & mine in our absence from each other. I need not say that Mrs. Frost was happy to be put in possession of the society of a female friend at this time, and especially as Sister Kone and Mrs. F. were intimate on our passage to this country.
But now the rainy season was soon to set in, and we must build a house to cover us, & Mr. Smith, having gone to his family on Clatsop Plains, about 8 miles by water, and 12 by land, immediately on his arrival at Fort George, and having not been heard of since, we found ourselves some what perplexed, inasmuch as I had directed him when he should have seen to the wants of his family, to commence chopping logs for a house at the place of which we had spoken when I met him on my way to Willamette. But in the afternoon of the same day, as the Lord would have it, Br. Smith came to the fort with his canoe. ​He had been engaged since I saw him in providing for his family, consequently had found no time to work for us. But declared himself to be ready to engage with us in building us a habitation. Consequently, after consultation, we determined to leave our families at fort George, while we would go to the Clatsop plain and put up a house. And now a scene of labour and suffering commenced, to the like of which, I had all my life previously been an utter stranger. But a few months since we had concluded a sea voyage of 22,000 miles, & since the conclusion of which I had assisted in unlading the ship, all our goods having to be taken at the end of the tackle, which I hope will hereafter, forever, be prevented by those who contract for the delivery of any goods at any missionary establishment; so that the missionary is not obliged to spend what strength he has remaining, immediately upon his landing upon a dark wild shore, where the trials and labours through which he must pass, will require the strength of the strongest, and, almost, a miracle of Divine mercy to enable him to endure one year. And besides this I had made a number of lengthy trips on the Columbia and Willamette in canoes & boats; not by any means the most comfortable way of journeying, and had been called to endure, during my stay at Fort George, the very afflicting feeling of being in continual suspence, relative to what I had written to Rev. J. Lee, our superintendent on the subject of help &c. But no time could be lost. So after our things were arranged, which occupied our time until the next day, we bid our families farewell, and with our tools, and provisions for some days, we set out in Br. Smiths canoe, for the plains before mentioned. We arrived at the landing on the Skepenowin27 a creek which leads from Young's Bay, in a zigzag course to within about one mile of the plain. Here we drew the canoe upon land and packed our effects upon our backs and set out in search of a building spot. We arrived at the plain, and then performed a circuitous rout, by an old indian trail upon the same, for the distance of about six miles, when we arrived at the spot upon which Br. Smith had pitched as being desirable for a building spot.
27 Skipanon Creek. ​While on a ridge, a number of which running parrellel with the Ocean from one end of the place to the other, myself being some distance ahead of the others, I saw a huge black bear moving slowly on the spot where we afterward pitched our tent; and as I was not very well acquainted with this sort of gentry, I laid down my budget and awaited the approach of Br. Smith; as soon as he came in speaking distance, he, pointing to the place, said, that is the place of which I have been speaking. O but said I, I saw a monstrous bear there but a moment since. I am not afraid of bears, answered Br. S., and proceeded towards the spot very deliberately; so I reshouldered my budget and followed him, supposing, of course, that he was better acquainted with our neighbor than I was. We arrived at the spot, and after our comrades came up, we pitched our tent, struck a fire, and prepared supper; after pertaking of which we consulted with refference to our future procedures. Br. S thought it necessary to return to his family the next morning, and agreed to return the next day but one, and would bring with him some indians to assist us in carrying logs with which to build our house, for you must know we had nothing like a team, and in his absence Br. Kone & myself was to fix on the spot to set our house, and commence opperations. So in the morning, which was fine, Br. S. left us, after taking breakfast. Strange feelings arose in my mind during that day. Br. K. & myself were alone, in a wild region, where the foot of the white man had seldom troden, and where we were surrounded by Indians, who were ignorant, superstitious and barbarous. An act of their barbarity I will here relate, as communicated to me by Br. S. which took place while in his absence to the Walamette, a few days before. His wife having acquainted him of the fact on his return, she having been an eye witness to the act. The sircumstance transpired at Niekaksi, at the southern extremity of the plain not far from Cape Lookout, where a small river emties into the Ocean, in which the indians take the fall salmon, which they preserve for their winter food, and where Br. S. had put up a small log house, in order that he might secure supplies for his family for the ​ensuing winter. At about the time that the salmon commenced running up the river, an indian hunter brougt an elk into the camp and as food was scarce among them at them at that time, the head man invited all hands to his house to partake of elk; and amongst the guests assembled, there was an indian who had been for some time in a declining state. He partook with the rest, and after the repast was ended, he returned home before the other members of the family with whom he lived; and having received from the hunter, who had compassion on him because he was sick, a piece of the elk, before going to the general repast, he on his return put it on sticks according to their custom, and set it up before the fire to roast, while he at the same time lay down, and fell into a sound sleep. Sometime after which, his own sister, with whom he lived and the other inmates of the lodge returning, and finding him breathing hard and frequently groaning, they immediately set up a cry, and said that the man was dying; when all hands decided that he must be buried without delay; for if he should lay dead above ground the salmon would all leave the river and they would have no food.
So some of them went in haste to Br. S's house and asked his wife to lend their shovel that they might bury the dying man; upon this intelligence Mrs. Smith who is a clatsop woman, but who has been converted to Christianity, arose, and went to the lodge to see what was actually the condition of the man; and after she arrived there she found the man soundly sleeping, and probably, because of eating a very hearty supper, and having been sick for some time, felt somewhat uneasy, and consequently breathed strangely and at the same time groaned. Being satisfied that the man was not as near his end as they imagined, she endeavoured to persuade them to desist from their purpose to bury him, at least until morning, when if he died they would bury him. She also spoke to them of the horror and wickedness of burying a man alive. But all would not do. The man was dying, and if he should lay dead above ground they would get no salmon. Buried he must be. So they rolled him up in his blanket and mat, as is their custom, his sister being foremost in the business, and one shouldered and caried him to the place where they were to bury him; and when they arrived at the ​spot the man that bore him threw him down on the ground, which caused him to groan loudly, which, however, was another proof to them that it was high time to bury him. Here, if I remember right, Mrs. S. talked with them again, and endeavoured to disuade them from the commission of such a horrid deed, saying that if they would leave him until morning she would pray with him and if he died, they would bury him in a proper manner; but they told her that she [k]new nothing about praying, a minister could pray, but she could not, and scolded her for being so heedless with refference to their obtaining a supply of salmon; while at the same time they were busily engaged in digging a hole to put the man in. After Mrs. S. found that she could not prevail with them she returned to her house, and was informed, afterwards, that when they had the hole dug, they threw the man in which caused him to groan very much, but his groans were not long to be heard, for they threw the earth in upon the body; and although, when at intervals one would get down to stamp the earth down upon the body, he would utter groans, yet they continued the work until it was finished. The man was buried alive and no doubt, as they had a great abundance of salmon, they felt satisfied that they had done a good work.
(To be continued)
* ↑ For a journal of the Lausanne voyage see "Brewer: Log of the Lausanne," Oregon Historical Quarterly XXIX, 192-208; 288-309; 346-54.
* ↑ Chenamus and Sally, his wife.
* ↑ Cyrus Shepard, who had come to Oregon with Jason Lee in 1834.
* ↑ James Birnie, in charge of the Hudson's Bay Company station at Fort George (Astoria). He came to the Oregon country in 1818; retired from the service of the company in 1845.
* ↑ Captain Duncan.
* ↑ The Cadboro.
* ↑ E. O. Hall took a printing press from the Hawaiian Islands to the Spalding mission at Lapwai. For history of the press see Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXIII, 39-52; 95-10. The press is in the museum of the Oregon Historical Society.
* ↑ A. Lattie, mate of the Cadboro and pilot; drowned at the mouth of the Columbia River September 4, 1849; Friend, November 1, 1849.
* ↑ Pillar Rock. It was described but not named by Lewis and Clark.
* ↑ A negro called George Washington, who proved so inefficient as a pilot that he was superseded by George, a Chinook; Lee and Frost, Ten Years in Oregon, 224-25.
* ↑ The marriage of Daniel Lee and Maria T. Ware was the first American marriage north of the Columbia River.
* ↑ Prairie du Thé (Tea Prairie) was about 28 miles from Fort Vancouver. It is mentioned by Edward Ermatinger in his York Factory Express Journal; Townsend, (page 255) and Wyeth, page 233, both mention it.
* ↑ Chehalis Indians.
* ↑ Skamokawa, chief of a tribe of that name, which was a branch of the Wahkiakums.
* ↑ Solomon H. Smith came to Oregon with Wyeth in 1832; married Celiast, daughter of Chief Cob-o-way, of the Clatsops.
* ↑ Mr. Birnie had six daughters, five of whom were pupils of Mrs. Frost; Lee and Frost, 269.
* ↑ McKay was a half-breed Iroquois. For full account of the murder and punishment of the murderers see Lee and Frost, 270-74 ; Hines, Oregon, 390-91.
* ↑ The first of Captain Couch's vessels to enter the river.
* ↑ Frost was the only white man present who did not take an active part in the hanging of the murderer; Hines, Oregon, 391.
* ↑ Hines' trip to the Umpqua proved to be so dangerous on account of the hostility of the Indians that the plan for a mission there was abandoned; Hines, 94-119.
* ↑ Henry Johnson, who became clerk of Cushing's store at Oregon City; Bancroft, Oregon, 1, 467.
* ↑ Aubichon. Two men of this name, Alexis and Jean Baptiste, lived near Champoeg.
* ↑ Necoxie.