# Scrambles amongst the Alps

* FOG-BOW SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY 14, 1865.
"THE TANGWALDERS THOUGHT THAT IT HAD SOME CONNECTION WITH THE ACCIDENT"
See Chap. XXII.
SCRAMBLES
AMONGST THE ALPS IN THE
YEARS 1860-69
BY
EDWARD WHYMPER
WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS
Toil and pleasure, in their natures opposite, are yet linked together in a kind of necessary connection. — Livv.
LONDON
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET
1871
CONTENTS
PREFACE.
1860
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY.
BEACHY HEAD—DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME—MULES—SCRAMBLING ALONE—THE WEISSHORN—ST. BERNARD—RASCALLY GUIDE—A VILLAGE CONCERT—STORM ON THE COL DE LAUTARET
Pages 1-13
CHAPTER II.
THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX.
THE VALLEYS OF DAUPHINÉ—THE PEAKS OF DAUPHINÉ—MISTAKES IN THEIR IDENTIFICATION—EARLY ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND MONT PELVOUX—INTRODUCTION TO MONSIEUR REYNAUD—THE "ASSOCIATION ALIMENTAIRE" OF GRENOBLE—MEETING WITH MACDONALD—CROSS THE COL DE LAUTARET—NATIONAL SENTIMENTS—WE ENGAGE A GUIDE—START FOR PELVOUX—PASS THE CAVERN OF THE VAUDOIS—MASSACRE OF THE VAUDOIS—FIRST NIGHT OUT—WE ARE REPULSED—ARRIVAL OF MACDONALD—THIRD NIGHT OUT—TORRENTS ON FIRE—FALLING ROCKS—ASCENT OF THE PELVOUX—THE PYRAMID—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—WE DISCOVER THE POINTE DES ECRINS—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—ON FLEAS—EN ROUTE FOR MONTE VISO—VALUE OF THE PASSPORT SYSTEM—DESERTERS—CAMP ON AN ANT-HILL—ST. VERAN—PRIMITIVE MANNERS—NATURAL PILLARS—ARRIVE AT BRIANCON
14-45
CHAPTER III.
THE MONT CENIS PASS AND THE FELL RAILWAY—THE GREAT TUNNEL THROUGH THE ALPS.
DILIGENCES—A STEEP RAILROAD—THE CENTRE RAIL—DESCRIPTION OF THE FELL RAILROAD—CENTRE RAIL BREAK—ADVANTAGES AND DEFECTS—HISTORY OF THE MONT CENIS TUNNEL—THE "PERFORATRICES"—TEMPERATURE OF THE TUNNEL—THE ADVANCED GALLERY—SYSTEM OF ATTACK—THE COST—ANNUAL PROGRESS—VENTILATION—COMPARISONS
46-79
CHAPTER IV.
MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE MATTERHORN.
INTRODUCTION TO JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL—SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES IN REGARD TO THE MATTERHORN—RIDGES OF THE MATTERHORN—EARLIEST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN—ATTEMPT BY THE MESSRS. PARKER—ATTEMPT BY MESSRS. HAWKINS AND TYNDALL—ARRIVE AT BREIL—UNWILLINGNESS OF THE GUIDES TO HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE MATTERHORN—THE CARRELS ENDEAVOUR TO CUT US OUT—THE 'GREAT STAIRCASE'—WE DECIDE TO CAMP ON THE COL DU LION—GREAT EXCITEMENT FROM FALLING STONES—LIGHT AND SHADE—THE 'CHIMNEY'—DEFEATED—A COOL PROCEEDING
80-95
1862
CHAPTER V.
RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.
MR. KENNEDY'S WINTER ATTEMPT—BENNEN REFUSES TO START AGAIN—THE THEODULE PASS—MEYNET, THE HUNCHBACK OF BREIL—ON ALPINE TENTS—MACDONALD AND I START FOR THE MATTERHORN—NARROW ESCAPE OF KRONIG—VIOLENT WIND TURNS US BACK—ENGAGE CARREL AND PESSION AND START AGAIN—THE 'GREAT TOWER'—PESSION BECOMES ILL AND WE ARE OBLIGED TO RETURN—BAD WEATHER—SCRAMBLE ALONE ON THE MATTERHORN—PIONEERS OF VEGETATION—VIEW FROM THE TENT—A SOLITARY BIVOUAC—MONTE VISO SEEN BY MOONLIGHT AT NINETY-EIGHT MILES' DISTANCE—ON AIDS TO CLIMBERS—CLIMBING CLAW—FIND A NEW PLACE FOR THE TENT—DIFFICULTY AND DANGER—ON FOOLHARDINESS—I ATTAIN A GREATER ALTITUDE ALONE THAN HAD BEEN REACHED BEFORE, AND NEARLY COME TO GRIEF—MY FOURTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN—DEFEATED AGAIN BY WEATHER—THE CARRELS GO MARMOT-HUNTING, AND WE START FOR A FIFTH ATTEMPT—DEFEATED BY NATURAL DIFFICULTIES—TYNDALL ARRIVES AND CARRIES OFF THE CARRELS—A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN—TYNDALL IS REPULSED-CONFLAGRATION IN DAUPHINÉ
96-130
1863
CHAPTER VI.
THE VAL TOURNANCHE—THE BREUILJOCH—ZERMATT—ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN.
THE DOUANE—"BUT WHAT IS THIS?"—DIFFICULTIES WITH MY LADDER—EXPLANATION OF TYNDALL'S REPULSE—ROMAN (?) AQUEDUCT IN THE VAL TOURNANCHE—ASCEND THE CIMES BLANCHES—WE DECEIVE A GOAT—NEW PASS TO ZERMATT (BREUILJOCH)—AQUEOUS AND GLACIER EROSION-GLACIER VERSUS ROCKS—RESULTING FORMS (ROCHES MOUTONNÉES)—MOTION OF GLACIERS PREVENTS THE ICE FROM BEING
FORCED INTO HOLLOWS—PROJECTIONS ALONE SUFFER—CONSEQUENT FLATTENING OF ROCK-SURFACES—ROCHES NIVELEES—STRIATIONS AND THEIR MEANING—VIOLENT GLACIAL ACTION IN ICELAND—ROTUNDITY OF ROCHES MOUTONNEES PROVES A SMALL AMOUNT OF EROSION—ON LEE-SIDES—THE EROSIVE POWER OF A GLACIER CONSTANTLY DIMINISHES—CONSERVATION OF ROCKS—SEILER'S DISINTERESTEDNESS—THE MATTERHORN CLIFFS—EXTRAORDINARY ACCIDENT TO A CHAMOIS—COL DE VALPELLINE—THE MASTER OF PRERAYEN—ATTEMPT TO ASCEND DENT D'ERIN (D'HERENS)—THE VA CORNÈRE PASS—ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN—SPLENDID VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—ON PANORAMIC VIEWS—GOUFFRE DES BUSSERAILLES—AN ENTERPRISING INNKEEPER
131-168
CHAPTER VII.
OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.
EXTREMES MEET—THUNDER AND LIGHTNING—ECHOES OF THUNDER—GREAT ROCK—FALLS DURING THE NIGHT—DEFEATED BY THE WEATHER—MYSTERIOUS MISTS
169-178
1864
CHAPTER VIII.
FROM ST. MICHEL TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE COL DES AIGS. D'ARVE,COL DE MARTIGNARE, AND THE BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE.
MICHEL CROZ—COL DE VALLOIRES—THE AIGUILLES D'ARVE—WE MAKE A PASS BETWEEN THEM—COL DE MARTIGNARE—ASCENT OF THE AIG. DE LA SAUSSE—THE MEIJE—BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE—MELCHIOR ANDEREGG—LA GRAVE—THE BRÈCHE IS WON—THE VALLON DES ETANÇONS
179-200
CHAPTER IX.
THE ASCENT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS.
BIVOUAC ON THE GLACIER DE LA BONNE PIERRE—DISSOLVING VIEWS—DRYNESS OF THE AIR—TOPOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL DAUPHINE ALPS—FIRST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE ECRINS—A MIGHTY AVALANCHE—OUR ASCENT OF THE FINAL PEAK—ON SPLINTERS FROM SUMMITS—LE JEU NE VAUT PAS LA CHANDELLE—SHATTERED RIDGE—ALMER'S LEAP—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—A WARNING
201-221
CHAPTER X.
FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE COL DE PILATTE.
CHALETS OF ENTRAIGUES—ARRIVAL OF REYNAUD—ON SNOW COULOIRS—SUMMIT OF THE COL—EXCITING DESCENT—REYNAUD COMES OVER THE SCHRUND—THE LAST OF DAUPHINÉ
222-231
CHAPTER XI.
PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TRIOLET, AND ASCENTS OF MONT DOLENT, AIGUILLE DE TRÉLATÊTE, AND AIGUILLE D'ARGENTIÈRE.
232-252
CHAPTER XII.
THE MOMING PASS—ZERMATT.
253-262
1865
CHAPTER XIII.
THE ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER.
263-273
CHAPTER XIV.
THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE.
274-280
CHAPTER XV.
LOST ON THE COL D'HÉRENS—SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.
281-294
CHAPTER XVI.
ON THE VALLEY OF AOSTA AND THE ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES.
295-345
CHAPTER XVII.
THE COL DOLENT.
346-352
CHAPTER XVIII.
ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE.
353-365
CHAPTER XIX.
THE COL DE TALÈFRE.
366-369
CHAPTER XX.
ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE—THE MATTERHORN.
370-383
CHAPTER XXI.
THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.
384-394
CHAPTER XXII.
THE DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.
395-408
APPENDIX.
| | | Page |
| A. | PROGRESS OF THE GREAT TUNNEL THROUGH THE ALPS | 411 |
| B. | THE DEATH OF BENNEN | 412 |
| C. | STRUCK BY LIGHTNING UPON THE MATTERHORN | 414 |
| D. | NOTE ON THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN FRANCE | 415 |
| E. | SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF THE MATTERHORN | 415 |
| F. | TABLE OF ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN | 422 |
| G. | TABLE OF ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN | 423 |
| H. | GEOLOGY OF THE MATTERHORN, BY SIG. F. GIORDANO | 424 |
| I. | ON STRATIFICATION OF SNOW AND FORMATION OF GLACIER | 426 |
| J. | DENUDATION IN THE VALLEY OF THE DURANCE | 431 |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
The Drawings were made on the Wood by
H. J. Boot, C. Johnson, J. Mahoney, J. W. North, P. Skelton, W. G. Smith, and C. J. Staniland;
and were Engraved by J. W. and Edward Whymper.
* From Photographs. ** Designs.
FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS
| 1. | Fog-bow, seen from the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865. | Frontispiece. | Frontispiece. |
| 2. | Mont Pelvoux and the Alefroide, from near Mont Dauphin | To face page | 35 |
| * 3. | The Mont Cenis Road and the Fell Railway, on the Italian side | " | 52 |
| 4. | Outlines of the Matterhorn from the north-east and from the Summit of the Theodule Pass (to show Ridges, and Points attained on the different attempts to ascend the mountain) | " | 83 |
| 5. | The Matterhorn, from near the Summit of the Theodule Pass | " | 84 |
| 6. | 'The Chimney' | " | 119 |
| 7. | "In attempting to pass the corner I slipped and fell" | " | 120 |
| ** 8. | A Cannonade on the Matterhorn (1862) | " | 127 |
| 9. | The Crags of the Matterhorn, during the Storm, Midnight, Aug. 10, 1863 | " | 175 |
| ** 10. | Descending Western Arête of the Pointe des Ecrins | " | 217 |
| ** 11. | "We saw a toe—it seemed to belong to Moore; we saw Reynaud a flying body" | " | 229 |
| ** 12. | The Summit of the Moming Pass in 1864 | " | 259 |
| ** 13. | The Club-Room of Zermatt in 1864 | " | 262 |
| 14. | The Bergschrund on the Dent Blanche in 1865 | " | 276 |
| 15. | The Matterhorn from the Riffelberg | " | 285 |
| 16. | Sections of the Matterhorn | " | 288 |
| * 17. | The Grandes Jorasses from the Val Ferret | " | 344 |
| 18. | The Summit of the Col Dolent | " | 347 ​ |
| 19. | Geological Section of the Matterhorn | " | 425 |
| 20. | Natural Pinnacles (formed out of an old Moraine) in the Valley of the Durance | " | 431 |
| 21. | Vertical Section of the Snow on the Col de Valpelline, August 1866 (Folding Plate) | | At the end of the Volume. |
IN THE TEXT.
| | | PAGE |
| 1. | Beachy Head | 1 |
| 2. | The Devil of Notre Dame | 2 |
| ** 3. | Mules | 3 |
| ** 4. | A Curé in Difficulties | 7 |
| ** 5. | Which is the Brute? | 8 |
| 6. | At the St. Bernard | 9 |
| ** 7. | "Garibaldi!" | 12 |
| * 8. | Briançon | 14 |
| 9. | Mont Pelvoux from above La Bessée | 21 |
| 10. | In the Val d'Alefred | 23 |
| 11. | The Grand Pelvoux de Val Louise | 24 |
| 12. | Buttresses of Mont Pelvoux | 28 |
| * 13. | Portrait of R. J. S. Macdonald | 31 |
| 14. | Outline to show Route up Mont Pelvoux | 33 |
| 15. | The Blanket Bag | 42 |
| 16. | Natural Pillar near Molines | 44 |
| ** 17. | Crossing Mont Cenis | 46 |
| ** 18. | The Little Postilion | 47 |
| 19. | The Centre Rail on a Curve | 49 |
| 20. | Section of the Fell Railway | 49 |
| * 21. | The Covered Ways of the Fell Railway | 52 |
| 22. | The Centre Rail Break | 53 |
| 23. | Tubes Conveying the Compressed Air to the Mont Cenis Tunnel, and Joints of the Same | 64 |
| 24. | Transverse Section of the Mont Cenis Tunnel | 65 |
| 25. | Cross Section of the Advanced Gallery | 70 |
| 26. | Longitudinal Section of the End of the Advanced Gallery | 71 |
| * 27. | Portrait of J. J. Bennen | 86 |
| * 28. | Portrait of Jean-Antoine Carrel | 89 |
| 29. | The Col du Lion: looking towards the Tête du Lion | 91 |
| 30. | Diagram to show manner of fastening Tent-poles | 100 |
| 31. | Alpine Tent | 100 |
| 32. | Climbing Claw | 110 |
| 33. | Rope and Ring | 111 |
| ** 34. | At Breill (Giomein) | 122 ​ |
| 35. | The Matterhorn from Breil | 128 |
| ** 36. | "But what is this?" | 131 |
| 37. | An Arch of the Aqueduct in the Val Tournanche | 135 |
| * 38. | Water-worn Rocks in the Gorge below the Gorner Glacier | 140 |
| 39. | Striations produced by Glacier-action | 141 |
| 40. | Sections of Roches Moutonnées and Roches Nivelées | 144 |
| 41. | Diagram of Weathered Rock | 151 |
| ** 42. | "Carrel lowered me down" | 163 |
| * 43. | Portrait of Monsieur Favre | 176 |
| * 44. | Crossing the Channel | 178 |
| * 45. | Portrait of Michel-Auguste Croz | 180 |
| 46. | Plan to show Route | 183 |
| 47. | The Aiguilles d'Arve from above Chalets of Rieu Blanc | 185 |
| * 48. | Portrait of Melchior Anderegg | 193 |
| 49. | Map of the Brèche de la Meije, etc. | 195 |
| 50. | Diagram to show Angle of Summit of Meije, as seen from La Grave | 197 |
| * 51. | The Vallon des Etançons | 199 |
| 52. | Map of the Central Dauphiné Alps | 202 |
| 53. | The Pointe des Ecrins from the Col du Galibier | 211 |
| 54. | Outline to show Route up Pointe des Ecrins | 212 |
| 55. | Fragment from the Summit of the Pointe des Ecrins | 215 |
| ** 56. | A Night with Croz | 220 |
| ** 57. | A Snow Couloir | 225 |
| ** 58. | Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day | 241 |
| 59. | Our Camp on Mont Suc | 242 |
| 60. | Ice-Avalanche on the Moming Pass | 258 |
| 61. | Facsimile of a Letter from Croz | 267 |
| 62. | Part of the Southern Ridge of the Grand Cornier | 269 |
| 63. | Part of the Northern Ridge of the Grand Cornier | 270 |
| * 64. | Portrait of Leslie Stephen | 274 |
| * 65. | Portrait of T. S. Kennedy | 280 |
| 66. | Diagrams to show Dip of Strata on the Matterhorn | 287 |
| * 67. | My Tent-bearer—The Hunchback | 292 |
| * 68. | The Bouquetin | 297 |
| 69. | A Crétin of Aosta | 300 |
| 70. | Imaginary Section of a Glacier | 333 |
| 71. | Quartz-vein | 336 |
| 72. | My Ice-axe | 349 |
| 73. | Kennedy Ice-axe | 350 |
| 74. | Another form of Ice-axe | 350 |
| 75. | Crampon | 351 ​ |
| * 76. | Portrait of Christian Almer | 354 |
| * 77. | On the Mer de Glace | 355 |
| * 78. | Ice-Pinnacles on the Mer de Glace | 356 |
| * 79. | Western Side of the Col de Talèfre | 366 |
| ** 80. | Glissading | 368 |
| ** 81. | The Wrong Way to use a Rope on Glacier | 374 |
| ** 82. | The Right Way to use a Rope on Glacier | 375 |
| 83. | "Croz! Croz!! Come here" | 390 |
| 84. | The Summit of the Matterhorn | 392 |
| 85. | The Actual Summit of the Matterhorn in 1865 | 395 |
| 86. | Rope broken on the Matterhorn | 398 |
| * 87. | Portrait of Monsieur Seiler | 401 |
| 88. | Manilla Rope broken on the Matterhorn | 403 |
| 89. | The 'Second' Rope broken on the Matterhorn | 405 |
| ** 90. | The End | 408 |
MAPS.
To be placed at the end of the Volume.
1. General Route Map.
2. The Valley of Zermatt, and the Central Pennine Alps.
3. The Valpelline, the Valtournanche, and the Central Pennine Alps.
4. The Chain of Mont Blanc.
5. The Matterhorn and its Glaciers (In Colours).
The body of the Work is printed by R. Clark, Edinburgh; the separate Plates have been printed by the Author.
errata.
Page 20, line from top, "Col de Lantaret" to read "Col de Lautaret." Page„ 29, line„ 13-15 from top„ "Pie des Archines" to read„ "Pic de Arcines." Page„ 45, note† "See Chap. 23" to read„ "See Appendix." Page„ 147, line 1 from top, "early and coarse" to read„ "early, or a coarse." Page„ 215, note, "referred to in Chapter xx." to read„ "referred to in Chapter xxi.
This work was published before January 1, 1929, and is in the public domain worldwide because the author died at least 100 years ago.
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