# The Complete Confectioner (1800)/Creams

CREAMS, &c.
To make a Cream Curd.
Take a pint of cream, boil it with a little mace, cinnamon, and rose water, to make it sweet; when it is as cold as new milk, put in about half a spoonful of good runnet, and when it curds, serve it up in a cream dish.
To make Lemon or Orange Cream.
Squeeze nine lemons or oranges upon a pound and an half of double refined sugar, fourteen or fifteen spoonfuls of fair water, and set it on the fire till the sugar is all melted; put in the white of nine eggs, strain it, and set it on the fire again; stir it all the while, till you see it begins to thicken; then put in about four or five spoonfuls of orange flower water; take it off the fire, and put it into your glasses; cut some lemon peel in small strings, and lay it in the bottom, after being boiled tender; this must be done over a charcoal fire.
Another Way
Take a pint of thick cream, set it on the fire, keep it stirring, and let it simmer; make it very ​sweet with double refined sugar, keep it stirring till it is pretty cool, then put in the juice of half a lemon, with the peel squeezed in to give it a fine bitter; keep stirring till it is cold, then stir it up high to bring a froth in the dish; this should be made early in the morning for dinner.
To make clear Lemon Cream.
Take a little hartshorn jelly, and put into it the peel of two lemons, taking care there is none of the whites; set it over the fire, let it boil; take the whites of six eggs, and beat them well; take the juice of four lemons, grate in the peel to the juice, let it soak a little while, and afterwards put the juice and eggs together; put in such a quantity of double refined sugar as will sweeten it to your taste; let it boil very fast near a quarter of an hour, then strain it through a jelly bag, and as it runs through put it in again, till it is quite clear; after which take the peels of the lemons boiled in it, and cut them into each glass; stir it till it is half cold and put it into the glasses.
To make yellow Lemon Cream.
Grate off the peel of four lemons, squeeze the juice to it, let it steep four or five hours, strain it, put to it the whites of eight eggs and the yolks of two, well beaten and strained; add thereto a pound of double refined sugar, a quarter of a pint of rose water, and a pint of spring water; stir all these well together, set it on a quick fire, but let it not boil, and when it creams it is enough.
To make Orange Cream.
Take a fine clear Seville orange, pare the rind ​off very thin, squeeze the juice of four oranges, put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of water and half a pound of fine powder sugar; beat the whites of five eggs, and mix into it; set them on a slow fire, stir it one way till it gets thick and white, then strain it through a gauze sieve, and stir it till it is cold; beat the yolks of five eggs very fine, mix all together in a stew-pan, put it over a slow fire, stirring it till it nearly boils; pour it into a bowl, and continue stirring it till it is nearly cold; then put it into your cups or glasses.
To make Spanish Cream.
Take three spoonfuls of flour of rice seered very fine, the yolks of three eggs, three spoonfuls of fair water, two spoonfuls of orange flower water, and mix them well together; then put to it one pint of cream, set it on a good fire, keep it stirring till it is of a proper thickness, and then pour it into your cups.
Another Way.
Take an ounce of isinglass cut small, dissolve it in half a pint of rose water, run it through an hair sieve, add to it the yolks of four eggs, beat and mixed with three quarters of a pint of cream, two sorrel leaves, and sugar to your taste; dip the dish in cold water before you put in the cream, then cut it out into what form you please, and serve it up.
To make Loaf Sugar Cream.
Take a pint of jelly of hartshorn, put in a little isinglass, make it thick with almonds or cream, ​which you please; sweeten it well, and put it into tin pots; let it stand till cold, and when you use it, dip the pan in warm water, and take it out whole.
To make Imperial Cream.
Take a quart of water, six ounces of hartshorn, put them into a stone bottle, and tie it close down, do not fill it too full, and set it in a pot of boiling water, or in an oven to bake; let it stand three or four hours, strain it through a jelly bag, and let it cool, having ready six ounces of almonds beat very fine; put into it as much cream as jelly, mix them together, strain the almonds and cream, and set all together over the fire till it be scalding hot; strain it into narrow bottom glasses, let them stand a whole day, and then turn them out; stick them all over with blanched almonds, or pine-apple seeds, laid in water a day before you peel them, and they will come out like a flower; then stick them on the cream.
To make Steeple Cream.
Put two ounces of ivory, cut very fine, and six ounces of hartshorn, into a stone bottle, fill it up with fair water to the neck; put in a little gum-arabic and gum-dragon, then tie the mouth of the bottle close, and set it in a pot of water, with hay at the bottom, and let it simmer for six hours; take it out, and let it stand an hour before you open it, for fear it should fly in your face; strain it through a fine sieve into a pan that it may cool; when it is cold, observe that it is of very strong jelly; if it is not, put it into a ​stew-pan, with two ounces of isinglass, let it simmer till the isinglass is dissolved; then take half a pound of sweet almonds, blanch and beat them fine in a mortar; and as you beat them, put in a little cream, to prevent their oiling, and afterwards mix them with a pint of thick cream; strain them through a fine sieve into a stew-pan, and put in a pint of jelly; sweeten it to your palate with fine powder sugar, set it over the fire till it is scalding hot, taking care that it does not boil; then take it off, and put a little amber into it; strain it through a sieve into a bowl, and let it stand a few minutes; have your steeple moulds ready, pour it in, let it stand till quite cold, and carefully turn it into a dish; garnish with currant jelly, sweetmeats, or any thing you chuse.
Another Way.
Take five ounces of hartshorn and two ounces of honey, put them into a stone bottle, and fill it up to the neck with fair water; put in a small quantity of gum-arabic and gum-dragon; tie up the bottle very close, set it in a pot of water with hay a the bottom, let it stand six hours; then take it out, let it stand six hours; then take it out, let it stand an hour before you open it, then strain it, and it will be a strong jelly; take a pound of blanched almonds, beat them fine, and mix them with a pint of thick cream; let it stand a little, strain it, mix it with a pound of jelly, and set it over the fire till it is scalding hot; sweeten it to your taste with double refined sugar, take it off, put in a little amber, and pour it into small gallipots, like sugar loaf at top; when it is cold pour them out, and lay cold whipt ​cream about them in heaps, taking care it does not boil when the cream is in.
To make Almond Cream.
Take almonds blanched in cold water, beat them fine with rose water and ambergris steeped in them, take the yolks of six eggs, beat your cream, being boiled with mace; put in your almonds, and when well mingled, put in your eggs, taking care that they only simmer; when it is thick take it off; your cream must be an ale pint, half a pound of almonds, and six whites of eggs; garnish with gilded almonds and dried citron.
Another Way.
Blanch almonds, bruise them small in a mortar, and strain them through a strainer with fair water; strain them through a strainer with fair water; strain them again with thick milk, and with a quarter of a pound of sugar; put them into a pot, add a little salt, and set it over the fire, stir it well, to prevent it burning to the pot; when it is boiled, take it from the fire, put a ladle of fair water into it, cover it with a dish and let it stand; then a clean cloth of an ell long, let it be held strait, and cast the cream upon it with a ladle; draw from under the cloth, the water from the cream, pin the four corners together, and hang it up again.
Another Way.
Boil a pint of cream, beat an handful of almonds very fine with rose water; take the cream off the fire and put it to the almonds, stir them together and strain it; season it with rose water ​and sugar, let it boil fast till it is thick, and serve it up.
To make Pistachio Cream.
Peel your pistachios, beat them very fine, and boil them in cream; if it is not green enough, add a little juice of spinach, thicken it with eggs, sweeten it to your palate, pour it into basons, and set it by till it is quite cold.
Another Way.
Take half a pound of pistachio nuts, break them, and take out the kernels; beat them in a mortar with a spoonful of brandy, put them into a tossing-pan, with a pint of cream, and the yolks of two eggs beat very fine; stir it gently over a slow fire till it is thick, but do not let it boil; then put it into a china soup-plate; when it is cold, stick some kernels, cut length-ways, all over it, and send it to table.
Another Way.
Take two ounces of isinglass, boil it in a pint of water, with a little lemon peel, and a small stick of cinnamon, till thoroughly dissolved; strain it through a fine sieve into a stew-pan, sweeten it with fine sugar, put in a pint of cream; break half a pound of pistachio nuts, beat them fine in a mortar with a little cream, rub them through a sieve, put them into a stew-pan, boil it gently, then pour it into a bowl, and let it remain till half cold; afterwards put it into what moulds you please, or deep cups; when quite cold, turn it out into a dish, and garnish to your fancy.
To make Rhenish Cream.
Cut two calves feet very small, put them into a saucepan, with two quarts of water, a stick of cinnamon, and a little lemon peel; boil them gently till they are reduced to less than a quart, strain it, and skim off the fat; put it into a stew-pan, with a little lemon peel, two laurel leaves, a few coriander seeds, and a little saffron; sweeten it with fine sugar to your palate, and let it boil up; beat the yolks of eight eggs very fine, take the cream off the fire and stir in the eggs well; put it over the fire a moment, taking care that it does not boil; strain it through a sieve, put in a gill of rhenish wine, stir it till it is half cold, then put it into moulds; when it is cold, turn it out into a dish, and garnish as your fancy.
Another Way.
Put over the fire a pint of rhenish wine, a stick of cinnamon, and a half a pound of sugar; while this is boiling, take seven yolks and whites of eggs, beat them well together with a whisk, till your wine is half driven in them, and your eggs to a syrup; strike it very fast with the whist till it comes to that thickness that you may lift it on the point of a knife, but be sure not to let it curdle; add to it the juice of a lemon, and orange flower water; pour it into your dish, garnish it with citron, sugar, or biscuit, and serve it up.
To make cold Cream.
Take a pint of sack or rhenish wine, and a good deal of fine sugar; beat fine a quart of good ​cream, and a lemon cut round, a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and a sprig of rosemary; pour them all together, let them stand a while, and beat them up with a rod till they rise; take it off with a spoon as it rises, lay it in a pot or glasses, and then serve it up.
To make Codling Cream.
Take twenty fair codlings, core them, beat them in a mortar with a pint of cream, strain it into a dish, put into it some crumbs of brown bread, with a little-sack, and dish it up. Gooseberry cream may be made in the same manner.
To make Sweetmeat Cream.
Take some good cream, and slice some preserved peaches, apricots, or plumbs into it; sweeten the cream with fine sugar, or with the syrup the fruit was preserved in; mix all well together, and put it into your bason.
To make Stone Cream.
Take a pint and an half of thick cream, boil in it a blade of mace and a stick of cinnamon, with six spoonfuls of orange flower water; sweeten it to your taste, and boil it till it is thick; pour it out, and keep it stirring till almost cold; then put in a small spoonful of runnet, and put it in your cups or glasses; make it three or four hours before you use it.
To make Clouted Cream.
Take a great quantity of new milk from the cow, and scald it in a kettle on a charcoal fire; when it is nearly ready to boil, take it off ​and stir it a little; lade it into a milk-pan, and let it stand at least twenty-four hours; divide the cream with a knife, as it stands upon the pan, and take it off with a skimmer, that the thin milk may run away; then lay it in a dish, one piece upon another, till your dish be as full as you please to have it; keep it twenty-four hours before you spread it.
To make Blanched Cream.
Take a quart of the thick cream you can get, sweeten it with fine sugar and orange flower water; boil it, and beat the whites of twenty eggs with a little cold cream, take out the treads, and when the cream is near boiling, pour in your eggs, stirring it well till it comes to a thick curd; then take it up, and pass it through a hair sieve; beat it well till it is cold, and put it in dishes.
To make a rich Almond or Steeple Cream.
Put half a pound of good hartshorn into five pints of water, which will make a very strong jelly; let it boil away near half; strain it off through a jelly-bag; have ready six ounces of almonds beaten to a very fine powder, which must be carefully mixed up with one spoonful of orange flower water, and six or eight spoonfuls of very thick cream; then take near as much cream as you have jelly, and put both into a skillet, and strain in your almonds, sweeten it to your taste with double refined sugar; set it over the fire, and stir it constantly till it is ready to boil; take it off, and keep it stirring till it is near ​cold; then put it into narrow-bottomed drinking-glasses, in which let it stand a whole day; when you wish to turn it out, put your glasses into warm water for a minute, and it will turn out like a sugar loaf.
To make Chocolate Cream.
Take a quart of cream, a pint of white wine, and a little juice of lemon; sweeten it well, lay in a sprig of rosemary, grate some chocolate, and mix all together; stir it all over fire till it is thick, and pour it into your cups.
To make Raspberry Cream.
Take the whites of seven eggs, and seven spoonfuls of raspberry mash; which put into an earthen pan, and beat it well with a spoon, till it comes to a cream, or you think it looks white enough, then fill your glasses; this quantity will make about a dozen.
Another Way.
Take a quart of very ripe raspberries, or raspberry jam, rub them through a hair sieve to take out the seeds, mix it with a quart of good cream, sweeten it to your taste with fine powder sugar, and put in a spoonful of rose water; put it into a deep pan, and with a chocolate mill raise a froth; as the froth rises take it off, and put it on a sieve to drain; if you have not a chocolate mill, put it into a broad pan, and beat it with a whisk till the froth rises; as it rises take it off, and lay it on a sieve as before; when you have got as much froth as you want, put what cream remains into a deep china dish or bowl, and with a spoon put ​your froth upon it as high as you can, and stick a light flour in the middle, or pull the pips off some flowers, and put here and there over it.
To make Coffee Cream.
Roast one ounce of coffee, put it hot into a pint and an half of boiling cream; boil these together a little; take it off, put in two dried gizzards; cover this close, let it stand one hour, sweeten with double refined sugar; pass it two or three times through a sieve with a wooden spoon; put it into a dish with a tin on the top, set the dish on a gentle stove, put fire on the tin; when it has taken set it by; serve it cold. Tea cream is made in the same manner.
To make Barley Cream.
Boil a quantity of pearl-barely in milk and water till it is tender; then strain the liquor from it; put your barley into a quart of cream, and let it boil a little; then take the whites of five eggs, and the yolks of one, beaten with a spoonful of fine flour, and two spoonfuls of orange flower water; take the cream off the fire, mix in the eggs by degrees, and set it over the fire again to thicken; sweeten it to your taste, pour it into basons, and, when cold, serve it up.
To make Gooseberry Cream.
Take two quarts of gooseberries, put them into a saucepan, just cover them with water, scald them till they are tender, then rub them through a sieve with a spoon to a quart of pulp; have six eggs well beaten, make your pulp hot, and put in one ounce of fresh butter; sweeten it to your ​taste, stir in your eggs, put it over a gentle fire till they are thick, but you must take care they do not boil; then stir in a gill of the juice of spinach, and when it is almost cold, stir in a spoonful of orange flower water or sack; pour it into basons, and when cold serve it up.
To make Lute Cream
Boil a quart of new milk with a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon-peel, and two or three laurel leaves; sweeten it to your taste; strain it through a sieve into another stew-pan, beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of two, with a little milk, very fine; stir the eggs into the milk, put it over a slow fire, and stir it one way till it is thick; pour it into a bowl, put two spoonfuls of rose or orange flower water into it, and stir it till it is cold; then put it into glasses or cups.
To make Whipt Cream.
Take a quart of cream, put it into a broad pan, with half a pint of sack, half a pound of fine powder sugar; beat up the whites of four eggs to a high froth, and put in with some lemon peel cut thin; you may perfume it, if you please, with a little musk or ambergris tied in a bag, and steeped in the cream; whip it up well with a whisk, and as the froth rises, put it into cups, glasses, or small basons; or you may put it over fruit tarts.
To make Hartshorn Cream.
Take four ounces of hartshorn shavings, and boil it in three pints of water till it is reduced to half a pint, and run it through a jelly-bag; put ​to it a pint of cream and four ounces of sugar, and just boil it up; put it into cups or glasses, and let it stand till it is cold; dip your cups or glasses in scalding water, and turn them out into your dish; stick sliced almonds on them; it is generally eaten with white wine and sugar.
To make Blanched Cream.
Season a quart of very thick cream with fine sugar and orange flower water; boil it, and beat the whites of twenty eggs with a little cold cream, strain it, and when the cream is upon the boil, pour in the eggs, stirring it well till it comes to a thick curd; then take it up, and strain it again through a hair sieve; beat it well with a spoon till it is cold, then put it into a dish.
To make Quince Cream.
Take as much cream as you think you will want, boil it with a little cinnamon and lemon peel; make it very sweet with sugar, strain it off, and let it gold; put your quinces into boiling water, boil them quick, uncovered, till they are tender; pare and beat them very fine, rub them through a sieve, then put them into a mortar, and mix the cream well with them; put it into small basons or glasses, and serve it up.
To make Snow Cream.
Take a large deep dish, strew the bottom with fine sugar beat to powder; fill it with strawberries; take some sprigs of rosemary, stick a large one in the middle, and several round about, to resemble a tree; then take a quart of the thickest cream you can get, and the whites of eight or ​ten eggs; whisk it up for half an hour, till you have made the froth very strong; let it stand ten minutes, then take off the froth, throw it over the tree, and cover the dish well with it, if it is done properly, it makes a grand pile in a dessert.
To make Ratafia Cream.
Boil six laurel leaves in a quart of thick cream; take them out, beat the yolks of five eggs with a little cold cream, and sugar to your taste; pour it into the cream, set it over the fire again and keep it stirring, but do not let it boil; pour it into china dishes, and when cold it is fit for use.
To make Currant Cream.
Bruise currants that are thorough ripe in boiled cream, put in beaten cinnamon, and sweeten it to your taste; then strain it through a fine sieve, and serve it up. You may do raspberries or strawberries the same way. It is best to sweeten the fruit before you put it to the cream, which should be almost cold before the fruit is put to it, else it is liable to curdle.
To make Cream of any preserved Fruit.
Take half a pound of the pulp of any preserved fruit, put it in a large pan, put to it the whites of two or three eggs beat together well for an hour, take it off with a spoon and lay it heaped on the dish or glass salver, with other creams, or put it in the middle bason. Raspberries will not do this way.
To make Citron Cream.
Put a quart of cream into a stew-pan, with one ​ounce of isinglass, a stick of cinnamon, two laurel leaves, and a little lemon peel; sweeten it to your taste with fine sugar, boil it gently till the isinglass is dissolved, then strain it off; put it into a deep china dish, or small basons; cut some greater citron in very thin small slices, wash it in rose water to raise the green colour, and when your cream is nearly cold, put in the citron, so that it may fall into the middle, and be covered with the cream at top, but not fall to the bottom; when cold, serve it up to table.
To make Burnt Cream.
Take a pint of cream, boil it with sugar and a little lemon peel shred fine; beat the yolks of six and the whites of four eggs separately; when your cream is cooled, put in the eggs, with a spoonful of orange flower water, and a spoonful of fine flour; set it over the fire, keep stirring it till it is thick, then put it into a dish; when it is cold, sift a quarter of a pound of sugar over it, hold a hot shovel over it, till it is very brown, and looks like a glass plate put over your cream.
To make Lemon Peel Cream.
Pare two lemons, squeeze to them the juice of one large, or two small ones, let it stand some time, then strain the juice to a pint of cream; add the yolks of four eggs beaten and strained; sweeten it, stir it over the fire till thick, and, if agreeable, add a little brandy.
To make Pompadour Cream.
Take the whites of five eggs, and after beating them into a strong froth, put them into a ​ with two ounces of sugar, and two spoonfuls orange flower water; stir it gently three or four minutes, pour it into a dish, and melted butter over it; send it in hot.
To make Newcastle Curd and Cream.
Take new milk, and put it in the bason you intend to go to table; let it stand till it turns to curds, which may be one or two days after; eat it with cream and sugar, and it is very fine: if the milk is good it will be two days of turning.
To make Runnet Curd and Cream.
Take new milk and sweeten it, grate in nutmeg and the yellow rind of a lemon; put in runnet enough to turn it to curds, which, if covered, will be in about two hours; then, if there is a quart, pour over it half a pint of thick cream, and send it to table.
To make Almond Butter with Milk.
To a quarter of a pound of blanched almonds, well beat, put some new milk and rose water, take a quart of thick cream, and the yolks of twelve eggs beat well with a little of the cream; put the rest of the cream to them, then a quarter of a pint of new milk to the almonds, and strain it into the cream so often that there is no strength left; strain all together into a skillet, set it over a charcoal fire, and stir it till it comes to a tender curd; put it into a strainer, and hang it up till all the whey is run out; then take six ounces of fine sugar, well sifted, and a little rose water, and beat all into butter with a spoon.
To make Orange Butter.
Take the juice of twelve oranges, the yolks of eighteen eggs, double refined sugar sufficient to sweeten it to your taste, but not very sweet; set it over a slow fire, stirring it all one way till it grows thick; put in as much butter as the size of a walnut, and a little ambergris, keep it smooth with stirring, when it is thick put it into little china dishes, being dipt in water first, that it may turn out the easier.
To make Fairy Butter.
Take the yolks of two hard eggs, beat them in a marble mortar with a large spoonful of orange flower water, and two spoonfuls of fine sugar beat to powder; beat all to a fine paste, add a like quantity of fresh butter just taken out of the churn, and force it through a fine strainer full of little holes into a plate.