# Africa by Élisée Reclus/Volume 3

Contents
Table of Contents
CONTENTS.
| chap. | | | page |
| I. | The Central and South Atlantic | The Central and South Atlantic | 1 |
| | | The Fabled Atlantis, p. 1. Relief of the Atlantic, p 2. The Azorian Waters, p. 4 Atmospheric Currents of the Azorian Basin, p. 10. Marine Currents, p. 12. Fauna, the Sargasso Sea, p. 14. The Guinea Waters, p. 15. Atmospheric Currents, Rainfall. Salinity, p. 19. Temperature, Fauna, p. 21. | |
| II. | The West African Islands | The West African Islands | 23 |
| | | The Azores, p. 23. Climate, p. 25. Flora, p. 26. Fauna, Inhabitants, p. 29. Topography, p. 33. Madeira, p. 43. Climate, p. 47. Flora, p. 48. Fauna, Inhabitants, Pp. The Canary Archipelago, p. 54. Climate, p. 68. Flora, Fauna, Inhabitants, p. 5961. Topography, 63. Administration, p. 81. The Cape Verd Archipelago, p. 82. Climate, Flora, Fauna, p. 84 — 85. Inhabitants, p. 86. Topography, p.88. Administration, p. 94. | |
| III. | The South-West African Islands | The South-West African Islands | 96 |
| | | 112. Fernando-Po, p. 113. | |
| IV. | North Senegambia: Senegal | North Senegambia: Senegal | 119 |
| | | General Survey, p. 119. Progress of Discovery, p. 120. The Futa-Jallon Highlands, Pp. 123. The Senegambian Seaboard, p. 124. Political and Social Relations, p. 126. Senegal Basin, p. 128. The Senegal Delta, p. 182. Climate, Flora, Fauna, p 134 — 137. Inhabitants, p. 138. Trade, Agriculture, Mineral Resources, p. 161 — 153. Topography, p. 157. Administration, p. 167. | |
| V. | South Senegambia | South Senegambia | 171 |
| | | Gambia, p.171. Flora, Fauna, Inhabitants, p. 173-174. Topography, p. 176. Administration, p. 178. Casdmanza Basin, p. 178. Portuguese Possessions, p. 182. The Rio Grande and Bissagos Archipelago, p. 184. The South Senegambian Rivers, p. 190. The Los Island, p. 192. Sierra-Leone, p 197. Climate, p. 200. Inhabitants, p. 203. Topography, Administration, p. 210 — 211. | |
| VI. | Upper Guinea | Upper Guinea | 212 |
| | | Liberia, p. 212. Climate, Flora, Fauna, p. 215-218 Inhabitants, p. 218. Topography, Administration, p. 223-227. Ivory Coast, p. 229. Climate, Flora, Fauna, p 231. Inhabitants, p. 233. The Gold Coast and Volta Basin, p. 235. Climate, Flora, Fauna, p. 239 — 240. Inhabitants, p. 240. Topography, p. 247. Agriculture, Industries, Trade, p 255. The Slave Coast, p. 266. Inhabitants, p. 260. Togo, p 265. Popo, p es Dahomey, p. 267. Porto-Novo, p. 269. Badagry and Lagos, p. 270. Yoruba, p. 272. | ​ |
| VII. | The Niger Basin | The Niger Basin | 275 |
| | | General Survey, p. 275 Progress of Discovery, p. 276. The Upper and Middle Niger, p-281. The Benue, p 284. The Niger Delta, p. 287. The Upper Niger States, p. 288, Inhnbitants, p. 291. Topography, p. 292. The Middle Niger States, p. 299. Topography, Timbuktu, p. 302. Haussa Land, p 306. Inhabitants, p. 309. Topography, p. 313. Administration, p. 323. The Benue and Lower Niger States, p. 324. Topography, p. 332. Bonny and Calabar, p. 338. | |
| VIII. | The Tsad Basin | The Tsad Basin | 342 |
| | | General Survey, p. 342. Lake Tsad, p. 344. Climate, Flora, Fauna, p. 349. Wadai p. 352. Topography and Administration, p. 353. Kanem, p 364. Bornu, p. Inhabitants, p. 358. Topography, p. 361. Administration, p. 364. Baghirmi, p. 365. Administration and Topography, p. 367. | |
| IX. | The Cameroons | The Cameroons | 369 |
| | | General Survey, p. 369. Rivers, p. 373. Climate, Flora, Fanna, p. 374. Inhabitants, p. 875. Topography, p. 380. | |
| X. | The Gabon and Ogoway Basins. | The Gabon and Ogoway Basins. | 384 |
| | | Spanish, French, and Portuguese Possessions, p. $84. Physical Features, Rivers, p. 386. Climate, Flora, Fauna, p. 391 — 392. Inhabitants, p. 304. Topography, p. 402. | |
| XI. | The Congo Basin. | The Congo Basin. | 411 |
| | | General Survey, p. 411. The Tchambesi and Lake Bangweolo, p. 416. Lake Moero, p. 419. Kamolondo Basin, p. 419. Lake Tanganyika and the Upper Congo, p. 420. Climate, Flora, Fauna, p. 436 — 437. Inhabitants, p. 439. The Congo Free State, p. 443. Lua-Pula and Lua-Laba Basins, p. 444. Kissinga, and the Muata Kazembe's Kingdom, p. 446, The Msiri's Kingdom, Garangaja, p. 448. The Rua Kingdom, p. 449. Tanganyika and Muta N'zige States, p. 431. The Middle Congo, p. 460. The Welle Basin, Monbuttu, and Niam-Niam Territories, p. 465. The French Congo, p. 474. The Kassai Basin, p. 481. The Kwango Basin, p. 492. The Lower Congo, p. 495. | |
| | Statistical Tables | Statistical Tables | 503 |
| | Index | Index | 505 |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
MAPS PRINTED IN COLOURS.
| page | page | page | page |
| 1. The Canary Islands | 56 | 4. Cameroons Mountains and Bight of Biafra | 368 |
| 2. The Lower Senegal | 128 | 5. The Gaboon | 384 |
| 3. The Lower Niger | 320 | 6. The Lower Congo | 496 |
PLATES.
| Women and Children of Porto-Grande | Frontispiece |
| Lake of the Sete Citades To face page | 36 |
| Madeira: View taken on the North Coast | 44 |
| Funchal, East View | 52 |
| General View of Porto-Grande, St. Vincent Island | 90 |
| Tristam da Cunha: View taken on the North Coast | 98 |
| Toucouleur Types: the Interpreter Alpha-Sega and his Sisters | 150 |
| Jamestown, St. Helena | 104 |
| Goree: Landing-Stage and Fort | 160 |
| Kayes Railway Station | 162 |
| Felup Types | 180 |
| Bujago Types and Termites' Nest | 188 |
| Kroomen | 216 |
| The King of Assini | 232 |
| The Bar at the Mouth of the Volta | 240 |
| Cape Coast: Seaward View | 248 |
| Porto Novo: Group of Natives | 268 |
| Young Bambaras | 292 |
| Fillani or Fulah Types To face page | 298 |
| Nupé Woman | 336 |
| Barge on the Old Calabar River | 340 |
| Group of Kanem-bu Warriors | 356 |
| The Logon-Bimi: General View | 364 |
| Palace of the Sultan of Masseña | 366 |
| The Fetish Stones of Samba, on the Ogoway | 388 |
| Mpongwe House near Libreville | 394 |
| Fan Women and Child, banks of the Ogoway | 398 |
| American Mission on the Ogoway between Njolé and Lambaréné | 404 |
| The Traveller Giraud amid the Reeds of Lake Bangweolo | 418 |
| The Yellala Falls, Lower Congo | 430 |
| View taken at Ujiji | 456 |
| Stanley Falls: Fishing at the Seventh Cataract | 462 |
| Akka Man and Woman | 468 |
| Group of Ka-Lundas | 484 |
| Stanley Pool: View taken from Brazzaville | 498 |
| General View of Boma | 500 |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
| Fig. | | Page |
| 1. | Cape Sam Lourenço, Eastern Headlands of Madeira | 3 |
| 2. | Depths of the Azorian Atlantic | 6 |
| 3. | Fall of the Temperature in Deep Water | 9 |
| 4. | Temperature of the Deep Waters on either side of the Strait of Gibraltar | 10 |
| 5. | Atlantic Winds and Currents | 13 |
| 6. | Depths of the South African Atlantic | 16 |
| 7. | Mean Annual Direction of the Winds in the South African Atlantic | 18 |
| 8. | Summer Winds in the South African Atlantic | 19 |
| 9. | Currents of the South Atlantic and Lines of Icebergs | 20 |
| 10. | Volcanic Axis of the Azores | 24 |
| 11. | Island of San-Miquel — View taken in a Garden near Ponta-Delgada | 28 |
| 12. | Women of Fatal and San-Miquel | 31 |
| 13. | San-Miguel | 34 |
| 14. | Val das Furnas | 35 |
| 15. | Sete Cidades | 36 |
| 16. | Ponta-Delgada | 38 |
| 17. | Central Islands of the Archipelago | 39 |
| 18. | Corvo | 42 |
| 19. | Archipelago of Madeira | 45 |
| 20. | Eastern Peninsula of Madeira | 46 |
| 21. | Madeira — View taken from Mount Sam-Jorge | 49 |
| 22. | Dracona of Icod, in Teneriffe | 50 |
| 23. | Funchal and Socorridos Valley | 53 |
| 24. | Teyde Peak | 53 |
| 25. | General View of Santa Cruz, Teneriffe | 65 |
| 26. | Recent Lavas of Lanzarote | 67 |
| 27. | Cirque of Tejeda | 70 |
| 28. | North-East Slope of Gran Canaria | 71 |
| 29. | Las Palmas and Port of La Luz | 72 |
| 30. | Peak of Teyde, Teneriffe — View taken From the Canadas of the Guanches | 74 |
| 31. | Northern extremity of Teneriffe | 76 |
| 32. | Gomera | 77 |
| 33. | Palma | 78 |
| 34. | Hierro. | 80 |
| 35. | Cape Verd Islands | 83 |
| 36. | Santo-Antam and Sam-Vicente | 89 |
| 37. | Part of the Volcanic Plateaux in Santo-Antam | 90 |
| 38. | Praia | 93 |
| 39. | Tristam da Cunha | 98 |
| 40. | St. Helena | 102 |
| 41. | Ascension | 107 |
| 42. | Sam-Thome | 109 |
| 43. | Cascade of Blu-Blu, on the Ago Grande, near the Capital of Sam-Thome | 110 |
| 44. | Femando-Po | 115 |
| 45. | Bay of Santa-Isibel | 116 |
| 46. | View on the Bakhoy Ford of Mokao Fara | 122 |
| 47. | Geological Map of Senegambia | 126 |
| 48. | Confluence of the Bafing and Bakhoy | 129 |
| 49. | The Felu Falls | 130 |
| 50. | Floods of the Senegal | 132 |
| 51. | Bars of the Senegal from 1825 to 1884 | 133 |
| 52. | Baobab on the Kotubadinta River South-West of Bamaku | 136 |
| 53. | Trarza Type | 139 |
| 54. | Natural Divisions of Senegambia | 140 |
| 55. | Chief Nations and Tribes of Senegambia | 141 |
| 56. | Wolof Girl, Sixteen Years of Age | 144 |
| 57. | Serer Youth, Twenty-One Years Old | 145 |
| 58. | Distribution of the Fulahs in West Africa | 146 |
| 59. | Fulah Type | 152 |
| 60. | Mineral Regions of Bambuk | 152 |
| 61. | Trade Routes and Projected Railways in Senegal | 154 |
| 62. | The Bifoulabe Railway | 156 |
| 63. | Saint-Louis in 1700 | 157 |
| 64. | Saint-Louis in 1880 | 158 |
| 65. | Gulf and Island of Arguin | 159 |
| 66. | Rufisque | 161 |
| 67. | Bafulabe | 163 |
| 68. | Rock of Kita | 164 |
| 69. | Village of Bufulabe | 165 |
| 70. | Timbo and the Sources of the Bafing | 166 |
| 71. | Medina — General View | 168 |
| 72. | Political Divisions of French Senegambia | 169 |
| 73. | Sources of the Dimma and Comba | 172 |
| 74. | Bathurst and Entrance of the Gambia | 176 |
| 75. | Tribes of the Casamanza | 180 |
| 76. | Valley of the Tomine | 183 |
| 77. | Bissagos Archipelago | 185 |
| 78. | Landscape in Guine: View Taken Near Bolama | 187 |
| 79. | Tribes of the Casamanza | 189 |
| 80. | The Los Islands | 192 |
| 81. | Rivers of the South | 195 |
| 82. | Inhabitants of the Rivers of the South | 196 |
| 83. | Peninsula of Sierra-Leone | 199 |
| 84. | Freetown | 201 |
| 85. | Territory of the Western Mandingans in Sierra-Leone | 204 |
| 86. | Inhabitants of Sierra-Leone | 205 |
| 87. | Freetown | 208 |
| 88. | Sawpit Bay, near Freetown | 209 |
| 89. | Territorities annexed to the Colony of Monrovia | 213 |
| 90. | Monrovia and Cape Mensurado | 214 |
| 91. | Chief Routes of Explorers in Liberia | 216 |
| 92. | Territory of the Kroomen | 219 |
| 93. | Inhabitants of Liberia | 221 |
| 94. | Robertsport and Fisherman's Lake | 222 |
| 95. | Monrovia and the Lower St. Paul River | 224 |
| 96. | Grand Bassa and Mouth of the St. John | 225 |
| 97. | Cape Palmas | 226 |
| 98. | Cape Palmas | 228 |
| 99. | Ditch of Little Bassam | 229 ​ |
| 100. | Assini | 231 |
| 101. | Women of Grand Bassam | 232 |
| 102. | Agni Type | 234 |
| 103. | Routes of Chief Explorers North and East of Cape Coast | 236 |
| 104. | The Lower Volta | 238 |
| 105. | Route from Accra to Coomassi | 244 |
| 106. | Gold Coast Possessions and Surrounding Districts | 245 |
| 107. | Inhabitants of the Gold Coast and Surrounding Districts | 246 |
| 108. | General View of Elmina | 249 |
| 109. | From Accra to the Sanatorium of Abouri | 251 |
| 110. | Abetifi Mountains | 253 |
| 111. | Mouths of the Volta | 254 |
| 112. | Shore-line East of Lagos | 258 |
| 113. | Lagos — European Quarters | 259 |
| 114. | Inhabitants of the Slave Coast | 261 |
| 115. | A Mohammedan Yoruba Trader | 263 |
| 116. | Inland Scenery, Slave Coast | 264 |
| 117. | Togo District | 266 |
| 118. | Dahomey and Ajuda Coast | 268 |
| 119. | Lagos | 270 |
| 120. | Rock of Abeokuta | 273 |
| 121. | Hypotheses of the Old Geographers on the Course of the Niger | 277 |
| 122. | Chief Routes of Explorers in the Niger Basin West of the Benue | 278 |
| 123. | The Tembi-Kundu Hill and Source of the Niger | 279 |
| 124. | Upper Niger Valley | 280 |
| 125. | Backwaters South of Timbuktu | 282 |
| 126. | The Burum Defiles | 283 |
| 127. | The Bussa Rapids | 284 |
| 128. | Confluence of the Niger and Benue | 285 |
| 129. | Cofluence of the Kwara (Nlger) and Benue | 286 |
| 130. | Mouths of the Nun and Brass | 287 |
| 131. | Ancient Empire of the Toucouleurs | 289 |
| 132. | Inhabitants of the Upper Niger | 290 |
| 133. | Interior of a Bambara House | 291 |
| 134. | The Dio Watershed between the Niger and Senegal | 293 |
| 135. | Cascade near Bamaku | 294 |
| 136. | Bamaku | 295 |
| 137. | Segu | 296 |
| 138. | Sansandig | 297 |
| 139. | The Hombori Mountains | 300 |
| 140. | Timbuktu | 301 |
| 141. | El-Haj Abd-el-Kader, Envoy of Timbuktu | 302 |
| 142. | The Races of West Africa | 305 |
| 143. | Sokoto: View taken in the Interior | 307 |
| 144. | Range of Mohammedanism in Central Africa | 310 |
| 145. | A Sokoto Fulah — Brother of the Sultan | 311 |
| 146. | Inhabitants of Haussa | 312 |
| 147. | Katsena and Dankama | 314 |
| 148. | Kano | 315 |
| 149. | Plan of Sokoto and Map of Haussa, drawn by Sultan Bello | 316 |
| 150. | Wurno: View taken in the Interior | 317 |
| 151. | Gando and Sokoto | 318 |
| 152. | Rabba | 320 |
| 153. | Bida and Kaduna | 321 |
| 154. | Egga | 322 |
| 155. | The Upper Benue | 325 |
| 156. | Mac-Iver Peak | 326 |
| 157. | Chief Routes of Explorers East of the Benue | 328 |
| 158. | Riverain Populations of the Benue and Lower Niger | 329 |
| 159. | Languages of the Benue and Lower Niger | 331 |
| 160. | Yola | 333 |
| 161. | View taken in Demsa Poha | 334 |
| 162. | Yakoba and Mount Saranda | 335 |
| 163. | Dwellings in Nupé | 336 |
| 164. | Idda | 337 |
| 165. | Onitcha | 338 |
| 166. | Bonny and New Calabar | 339 |
| 167. | Old Calabar and Oyono | 340 |
| 168. | Routes of Explorers in Tsad Basin | 343 |
| 169. | Shores of Lake Tsad | 345 |
| 170. | Lake of Tuburi | 346 |
| 171. | The Ba Busso, or Eastern Shari, at Miskin, South-East of Lagon | 347 |
| 172. | Tsad and Bahr El-Ghazal | 348 |
| 173. | View taken on the Banks of the Shari | 350 |
| 174. | Inhabitants of Kanem | 355 |
| 175. | Inhabitants of Bornu | 359 |
| 176. | Kuka | 361 |
| 177. | The Mora Mountains | 363 |
| 178. | Massena and East Baghirmi | 368 |
| 179. | View taken at the foot of the Cameroons | 370 |
| 180. | Chief Routes of Explorers in the Cameroons | 372 |
| 181. | The Lobé Falls | 374 |
| 182. | Tribes of the Cameroons | 377 |
| 183. | Victoria | 381 |
| 184. | Victoria and Bimbi | 382 |
| 185. | Chief Routes of Explorers in the Gaboon and Ogoway Basins | 385 |
| 186. | Confluence of the Komo and Ramboé | 387 |
| 187. | Supposed Course of the Ogoway before the late discoveries | 388 |
| 188. | The Ogoway and Zonengway | 390 |
| 189. | Lines of Equal Cloudiness in Africa | 391 |
| 190. | Inhabitants of the Gaboon and Ogoway Basins | 395 |
| 191. | Fan Woman | 396 |
| 192. | The Banya Lagoon and Ba-Lumbo Country | 399 |
| 193. | A Cabinda | 401 |
| 194. | Corisco Bay | 403 |
| 195. | Elobey Islands | 404 |
| 196. | Libreville and Mouth of the Gaboon | 405 |
| 197. | Ma-Poko Falls on the Upper Ogoway | 406 |
| 198. | Franceville | 407 |
| 199. | Mouth of the Kwilu | 408 |
| 200. | Portuguese Possessions North of the Congo | 409 |
| 201. | Africa, according to Homann, in 1711 | 412 |
| 202. | Congo Basin as traced by Stanley after crossing the Continent | 414 ​ |
| 203. | Congo Basin as known in 1887 | 415 |
| 204. | Chief Routes of Modern Explorers in, the Congo Basin | 416 |
| 205. | Lake Bangweolo, according to Livingstone | 417 |
| 206. | Lake Bangweolo, according to Giraud | 418 |
| 207. | Lake U-Nyamezi, according to Erhardt and Rebmann | 420 |
| 208. | Lake Tanganyika | 421 |
| 209. | View taken from Mpala, on the West Coast of Tanganyika | 422 |
| 210. | The Lu-Kuga before the Flush | 424 |
| 211. | The Congo and U-Banghi Confluence | 426 |
| 212. | The U-Banghi : View taken at the Nkunjia Station | 427 |
| 213. | The Congo Falls below Stanley Pool | 429 |
| 214. | Last Rapids of the Congo | 430 |
| 215. | The Devil's Cauldron | 431 |
| 216. | The Congo Bar | 432 |
| 217. | Lines of Navigation surveyed in the Congo Basin | 434 |
| 218. | Forests of the Parallel Affluents of the Kassai | 438 |
| 219. | Bangala, a Station of the Independent Congo State | 442 |
| 220. | Zone Open to Free Trade in the Congo Basin | 443 |
| 221. | Chief Routes of Explorers in the Upper Congo Basin | 445 |
| 222. | Bunkeya and the Copper Mine Region | 447 |
| 223. | Lake Bangweolo and the Lower Lua-Laba according to Livingstone | 448 |
| 224. | Chief Tribes in the Upper Congo Basin | 450 |
| 225. | Chief Routes of Explorers in the Congo Basin East of Tanganyika | 452 |
| 226. | The Lu-Kuga Emissary of Tanganyika | 453 |
| 227. | Tabora and Gonda | 455 |
| 228. | Inhabitants of the Tanganyika Basin | 456 |
| 229. | Ujiji and the Malagarazi | 457 |
| 230. | Karema and Mpimbwe | 458 |
| 231. | Ma-Rungu Fetishes | 459 |
| 232. | Kavala Archipelago | 460 |
| 233. | Tippo-Tip | 461 |
| 234. | Stanley Falls | 462 |
| 235. | Under Chief of Iboko and Head Chief of the Ba-Ngala | 463 |
| 236. | Ba-Ngala Station. | 465 |
| 237. | Chief Routes of Explorers in Monbuttu Land | 466 |
| 238. | A Monbuttu Woman | 467 |
| 239. | Inhabitants of the Welle Basin | 469 |
| 240. | Niam-Niam Woman | 471 |
| 241. | Niam-Niam Man | 472 |
| 242. | Group of Niam-Niams and their Dwellings | 473 |
| 243. | Upper Welle Basin | 474 |
| 244. | Dead Trunks of Palms nee M'sula on the Congo | 478 |
| 245. | Inhabitants of the French Congo | 479 |
| 246. | Chief Routes of Explorers in the Kassai Basin | 482 |
| 247. | Ba-Songe Villages | 483 |
| 248. | Large States in the Congo Basin | 486 |
| 249. | Land of Friendship | 488 |
| 250. | Inhabitants of the Kassai Basin | 490 |
| 251. | Confluence of the Cambo and Kwango | 492 |
| 252. | Residence of the Muene Puto, Kassongo | 493 |
| 253. | Density of the Population in the Congo Basin | 494 |
| 254. | African Explorations since 1875 | 495 |
| 255. | Stanley Pool | 496 |
| 256. | Old and New Vivi | 497 |
| 257. | Boma | 498 |
| 258. | Port of Banana | 499 |
| 259. | Kakongo Type | 501 |