# A pilgrimage to my motherland/Chapter 2

CHAPTER II
ARRIVAL AT LAGOS.
Bad bar—Landing mail under difficulties—Magnificent Spectacle— Dexterous Canoe-men—Offering to the Water-demon—Sharks— Mr. Turner—The Consulate, Lieut. Lodder—Disgusting Spectacle —Lagos—Alcoholic Stimulants and Fever—Emigrants—Cowries —King Docemo—Kosoko, ex-King—A Visit to the Palace—Unfortunate Adventure—The Lesson.
ON the 21st July, early in the afternoon, our ship anchored off Lagos.
Our arrival was at the most unpropitious season of the year, the bar being then and during all June, July, and August more dangerous than at any other time; we found it impossible to effect any communication except by signals. The next day some natives were persuaded to come off from the beach; the bar being still very unsafe, they carried off the mails secured in a cask, and I, leaving my packages in charge of a man who accompanied me from Manchester, ventured to go on shore in their boat, which, however, I would not have done had I been aware of the great risk I incurred.
Could one but have divested himself of the sense of ​danger, the scene was magnificent—the huge "swells" chasing each other, and our little bark now riding victoriously on the crest of one, then engulfed in a deep chasm between two others, rising high on both sides. It is perhaps impossible for men to evince more dexterity than these natives in the control of their canoes, especially on approaching the beach. There were twelve men paddling with two others, one steering and the other in the prow watching the approaching surges and directing accordingly. When near the beach, the last, who is their head man, with much ceremony pours a few drops of rum on the water, and a great deal more down his throat, after which he very vehemently harangues, first I suppose the demon of the water to whom the rum was offered, and then his crew, cheering them for their work. There was another native on the beach who gave directions of some sort to the steersman by strange gesticulations; his appearance, as he stood above a group of companions, himself mounted on an inverted surf-boat with his loose garments waving in the air, presented a subject which would have delighted an artist, and was indeed wildly picturesque. It is necessary to watch carefully the regular successive rise and fall of the waves in order to prevent them breaking over the boat. Within a few yards of the beach they stop, "backing water" and ​watching intently their leader, then at a signal from him, they dash on vigorously on the top of a wave. As soon as the canoe touches, simultaneously they are in the water, and seizing their frail craft, in an instant bear her high and dry on the beach.
The bar of Lagos is dangerous chiefly on account of the large number of sharks which are always ready to make a repast on the bodies of the unfortunate occupants of any boat capsizing there.
The difficulties of the bar are not, however, insuperable: small vessels can always easily sail over it into the fine bay within, where they can load or unload with little trouble and without risk. It is not so easy to go out again, however, for then it would be necessary to "beat" against the wind; but a small steamboat could at once take them out in tow with perfect safety. I was informed that slavers used always to enter the bay: they could of course afford to wait for a favorable wind with which to get out. On landing I was kindly received by a Mr. Turner, a re-captured slave, educated at Sierra Leone by the British, and now a respectable merchant at Lagos.
After partaking of some refreshments provided by my hospitable friend, I was conducted to the house of Lieut. Lodder, the acting Consul, to whom I brought a letter from Lord Malmesbury, British Minister for ​Foreign Affairs in the late Derby Administration. My reception was cordial, and I was afforded convenient accommodation at the Consulate all the time I continued at Lagos.
A disgusting spectacle presented itself at. the entrance of the river: on the right margin stood two bodies, transfixed by poles passing through their mouths. They were nearly dry, and strange to say were not disturbed by buzzards, although a great number of these birds—fortunately very abundant in Africa—were flying about them. They were two of five men who were executed for robbery: one of them was the son of a chief, and his connection with the party gave rise to a great "palaver," his friends contending that in consequence of his birth he should not suffer a malefactor's death, while others contended that his crime had degraded him to the position of other men, like whom he should answer for his offenses.
Lagos is a small island about six miles in circumference, located on the west coast of Africa, in the Bight of Benin, Gulf of Guinea, lat. 6° 24' N., long. 3° 22' E. Like Bathurst, on the Gambia, it is very low, and formed by an accumulation of sand. In some places lower than the surface of the river, it is very swampy from the infiltration of water. Like many
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The prevailing disease is fever with chills: with common prudence, however, there is nothing to fear in this disease; but if the person suffering from it will blindly persist in the use of alcoholic stimulants, the consequence might be serious. I am sorry to say that Europeans and others, generally indulge far too freely in these beverages. In too many instances, I believe the climate is blamed for the evils thus created. After passing through what is called the acclimating process, which lasts during twelve or fifteen months, one is seldom troubled again with fever.
The population, of Lagos is estimated at about thirty thousand: there are about fifteen hundred emigrants from Sierra Leone, the Brazils and Cuba. All these are themselves native Africans, brought from the interior and sold on different parts of the coast. Those from Sierra Leone are recaptured, and the others redeemed slaves. Few are more than half civilized. The white inhabitants number about twenty-five, and include English, Germans, French, Italians, and Portuguese. A few very fine houses have been erected near the water-side, and others were being built at the time of our departure. They use as money small shells (Cyprœa Moneta) called cowries by the English, owu by the natives, this being also the ​general term for money. The value of the dollar and its fractions, as well as English currency, is well understood and appreciated: it is fast getting to be the same at Abbeokuta.
The present King of Lagos is called Docemo. He was placed in the position by the late Consul Campbell, after his brother Kosoko was deposed for warring against the English, and for his participation in the slave-trade. Kosoko has still a few adherents, particularly among the Europeans: only the guns of H. M. gun-boat "Brune," lying always in the river, preserve the present King his position. Kosoko lives not far from Lagos: he is said to be cruel and tyrannical, and still claims to be the legitimate King of the place.
On the morning of the first of August I made a visit to his Majesty King Docemo. Lieut. Lodder, the acting Consul, sent a messenger to his Majesty, informing him of the intended visit, and asking his permission, which being obtained, a party, consisting of the Commander of the "Brune," the Paymaster of H. M. S. S. "Medusa," the acting Consul and myself, proceeded. We were received in the reception-room, and some chairs, intended solely for such occasions, (for neither the King nor the members of his household sit on chairs,) were offered us. After waiting a few minutes, his Majesty, tastefully arrayed in a cloth of plaid ​velvet, and gold embroidered slippers, presented himself, and was introduced to his visitors respectively. The interview lasted about an hour. I told him briefly, through the interpreter, our object in visiting Africa, which seemed to give him much pleasure: so far as his dominions extended, he said, emigrants might select land suitable to their purpose, and he would gladly give it. I thanked him for his offer, and then spoke for a few minutes of the great results which must flow from the development of a country like his, so blessed with resources. In reference to an American emigrant who came with me from Manchester, he inquired whether he understood using oxen for agricultural purposes: when answered in the affirmative, he seemed rather incredulous. The other gentlemen had also business to transact with the King, which rendered our conversation rather brief.
When I had been a few days at Lagos, Mr. Williams, a somewhat intelligent native, interpreter to the Consul, invited me to see his farm on the mainland, a few miles across the river. Accompanied by two other persons, we left early in the morning before breakfast, expecting to return in two hours at most. Reaching the land, it was still necessary to journey a few miles to the farm: though yet early, it was warm, and the walk tiresome, so that I was obliged to rest myself on ​a stump while my companions proceeded to a little distance to plant some seed. Seeing a bird which I wanted to preserve, alight a few yards off, I tried to come within shot of it: before able to do so, it pursued its flight. I followed and eventually shot it, but in attempting to return I unfortunately took a direction leading away from my first position. I wandered about for more than two hours, shouting all the time at the top of my voice to attract attention, for my ammunition being in the possession of my companions, I could not fire my gun for that purpose. I soon found myself in the midst of an almost impenetrable jungle, the shrubbery and vines so thickly interlacing, that it was with the greatest difficulty I could break through: the ground too was swampy, and I sometimes sunk nearly to my knees. By this time my friends were as busy seeking me. I never felt more joyful than when I heard their voice in response to my own. From hunger, fatigue, heat of the sun, and excitement, I returned home about 2 P.M., with severe headache and fever. The next day I was worse, and continued ill for several days. The reader has here my first initiation into the African fever, and I might add that not a few may trace their first attack to similar imprudence. In such a climate a stranger should never leave his home before breakfast, nor undertake very vigorous exercise before he has passed the ordeal of acclimature.