# Lacrosse: The National Game of Canada/Chapter 8

CHAPTER VIII
THROWING THE BALL.
Nothing in Lacrosse offers more scope for development than the throwing of the ball, and yet nothing has been more neglected in theory and practice. The number of useless and miscalculated shots, the mistakes in timing and speed, are far beyond the aggregate of throws that are successful; and when we consider the games made wild and tedious, and the opportunities lost by bad throwing, it would seem to call for reform and systematic improvement. For years we have endeavoured, in conjunction with others, to impress upon our brotherhood the value of practising throwing, especially into each other's crosses; but men resisted what they considered tedious practice compared to the excitement of a game. True enough it is; but so is the training to a gymnast, and the goose-step to a subaltern, but they ​lead to perfection. It is a great mistake to suppose you can make good players by an immediate rush into hot games. There is no royal road to Lacrosse any more than to geometry; and though you may pick up what may seem to be a successful style by playing the game, ignorant of its principles, it will no more compare to genuine Lacrosse than sliding on a chip does to toboganing. To assert that you can learn to play as well by intuition as by rule, is to deny that there are first principles in the game, and it would be as useless trying to teach you as trying to prove Euclid's proportions to a man who disputes the axioms.
If you feel yourself such an incarnation of genius that you think you know everything about the game, you'll find yourself left behind, and may say au revoir to your chances of election on "the first twelve." There are so few really good throwers in a club that they stand out as exceptions. There are many able to throw to any point from any distance when they have it all their own way; but the essence of good play is to be able to do this in the excitement of having an opponent at your heels; to have more ways than one, and to be able to throw accurately and quickly to any point, from whatever position you ​may happen to be in, when circumstances are such that you should not keep the ball. It is common to see men checked, while turning to the only position from which they are habituated to throw. Many players are like the gentleman with a short-lived reputation as a vocalist, who, when called upon to sing, had only in his repertoire one verse of "Ye Mariners of England," and the chorus of "Rule Britannia;" their throws are not only limited in number and variety, but those they do know are not known to the perfection they might be.
A ball thrown to a wrong point may do your side real harm, and it will not come back, like a boomerang, to give you another chance to improve. Many throws are poor because the thrower's methods are limited, and attempts are made to adapt some favorite style to all circumstances. At every game you may see this verified in close-quarter throwing. Few players have more than one or two ways of throwing past a checker, or putting the ball into goal. One or two we know have great variety and ingenuity in this respect. While other men waste throws by long shots, they invent and attempt new methods; and from experience we know their ​shots at goal to be peculiarly puzzling. A checker gets accustomed to a few orthodox thrown-dodges, and in time intercepts them almost invariably. We do not undervalue old or present methods of throwing, but we think there is great room for improvement, and that new and more effective methods can be invented to supersede them at certain times. We presume, then, that we are agreed—
* That good throwing is essential to good play.
* That throwing has not been brought to perfection.
We divide throws into—1, long; 2, medium; 3, short; and the varieties of balls into—1, grounders; 2, straight; 3, curved; 4, hoppers.
The rudimentary practices should be short distances, and one of the best ways of learning to throw accurately and quickly, at the same time learning to catch, is practice in
| 7 | 2 |
| 6 | 3 |
| 5 | 4 |
The Ring.—About seven or eleven men should form a circle, open at intervals of six feet, and gradually increasing the distance until they get to long throwing. The men are number 1, 2, 3, and so on, always having an odd number, All face the centre of the circle. No. 1 ​starts by throwing easily to No. 2, and the ball goes round the ring, every man trying to throw into the crosse of the number succeeding him. After a little of this practice No. 1 throws a curved ball over the head of No. 2 to No. 3; No. 3 throws to No. 5; No. 5 to No. 7; No. 7 to No. 2, and so on. The ring is then gradually enlarged, and the practices varied by different throws and positions. The men may all face to the right, and practice throwing over head to each other. At first the players may look before they throw, but they should practice throwing without seeing their man. All the varieties of throws may be learned in the ring, as well as every method of catching. Several such circles should be formed when the muster is large; and it will be found one of the very best practices for a few men when the muster is too small for a game. At any time it is infinitely of more use, than the common habit of players standing at each end of the field, and making long, high throws. In the ring you not only learn to throw and catch, but you learn to do both instantly. The arrangement of the circle may be varied in many ways. For "setting up" drill nothing can be better.
​It is almost impossible to mention the whole variety of throws, as so many modifications are made on the spur of the moment, according co circumstances; but the following will be found prracticable for all cases, and comprise many more than are commonly practised. Special throws should be cultivated as your forte. It is well to know every one, but better to know a few to perfection than half learn many. Almost any throw may be varied into the four kinds named above, by altering the general attitude, the manner of holding the crosse, &c.
FRONT THROWS WITH ONE HAND.
As a rule the best and most effective throwing is made with both hands on the crosse; but it is often necessary, and sometimes preferable, to throw with one hand—as, for instance, when so closely checked that you have not time to grasp the stick with the disengaged hand, or when an opportunity offers for a throw into goal which would be lost by the time you would get another grasp. If you want to throw to a man of your side, guard against misjudging the distance, and never attempt it unless ​he is at least within forty feet. To make effective front throws with one hand, always grasp the crosse a little above the middle, thumb on top, the better to guide the impetus. This is one of the best.
THROWING OVER THE HEAD OF A CHECKER.
It should be done with a part jerk instead of a full sweep upwards, as less liable to a close check. The latter catches the eye of the checker too well. The ball may either be on the top or centre surface of the netting, and necessarily makes a curved throw, but guard against too great altitude or force. The rules relative to the deflection and curvings of the crosse, are applicable to all throws with one hand.
THROWING INTO GOAL.
Draw back your crosse, or carry it thus as you advance, and make a straight forward thrust, either giving the arm full swing, or jerking the ball off. A modification of this may be made by carrying the crosse at a right angle from the right hip, as seen in Illustration 11th, and making an incurvation towards the point aimed at, by describing a sweeping curve from right to front, ​at the same time slightly turning the crosse inwards at the completion of the throw. A strong, steady arm and wrist can have great effect with this throw by altering the deflection and twistings of the crosse, from the beginning to the end of the shot. The ball should be on the lower angle, and run down during the throw. The shot may be either a straight or a grounder, and is generally a twisted ball. An excellent, and undeveloped throw into goal, is made by bringing the crosse quickly around to the rear, and throwing either close past the left leg, or between the legs. It is more puzzling to a goal-keeper, if done smartly, than you would at first suppose, as the ball is hardly seen until it has left the crosse, and the goal-keeper cannot tell whether it will be thrown from the left side, or from between the thrower's legs. It must be done quickly.
Another effective shot—much used by the St. Regis Indians—to goal, may be done by reversing the crosse, turning the side you use, with the ball on it, upside down, by a twist of the wrist, and throwing in and downwards.
We have seen balls put into goal by bringing the crosse around to the rear, and twisting it so as to ​throw over the left shoulder, bending the body forward as the throw is completed.
THROWING WITH BOTH HANDS ON THE CROSSE.
Facing Goal.—This is an extension of the one-hand throw, and is sometimes more effective, as the act of changing the grasp puzzles the eye of the keeper; and this is one of the great principles of success in getting balls in. The crosse is grasped by the right hand, as in carrying, and, when within a few feet of the goal-keeper, the left hand grasps about the collar, as the crosse is drawn back to begin the throw. The ball should start from or below the centre surface of the netting; and it will be found that the addition of the left hand greatly helps to increase the strength of pitch, if used as a sort of lever. This manner of throwing has the advantage of concluding with leaving both hands on the crosse, ready for stopping, tipping, or any close play which might be necessary, should the goal-keeper block or cut the ball back. It may often be used to very great advantage to pass a checker on the field, as seen in Illustration 8th; and may be varied from low to high throws, and to the front or either side.
​The Throw and Hit.—Used purposely at goal. As you approach goal, throw the ball up a foot in front, and strike it into the flags as it descends, and if you follow the general rule, you will not have the least compunction about striking it into the keeper's face. We would be the last, as goal-keeper, to object to any effort to get the ball in, but reminiscences of a black eye on one occasion, and a damaged os frontis on another, constrains us to plead for fellow-victims who may thus possibly be saved maltreatment. It is hardly "play," either, and by no means honorable to practice it. A more reasonable mode would be to try the same principle with a grounder or a straight ball below the hip; letting the ball off the crosse, and hitting it into goal.
From the Shoulder or Head, Facing Goal.—ring the crosse up to either shoulder, or to the front of the face, with the ball on the lower angle or centre, grasping with both hands, and bring it (quickly to the front, jerking or sweeping the ball off. There is no necessity of aiming at goal-keeper's face.This is used a good deal by the St. Regis Indians.
Side Throws.—These are the prettiest and most graceful methods, and are more used than any other, ​in throwing to goal or to any part on the field. They comprise every variety of throw, and as a general rule, are the most effective and preferable. The body may be in any convenient position for throwing past the left side, though the most natural, is of course the best. One of the most graceful throws in the game is peculiarly Indian, and was greatly in favor in the early days of the Montreal Club, especially in playing to each other. The right hand grasps the butt as usual, the left the collar or above it. If throwing to one of your side, place the ball on the top surface, and pitch from right to left, either ending by a full sweep, or, as is more customary, a jerk. This may be used either for a straight or curved ball, and in throwing to goal as well as to a fielder.
We fancy we can tell members of the old Montreal Club by this pitch. After their crosse has laid dormant for years, they will take it up, and the first throw will be the parallel side-shot. It is more like the throw from the original stick than any other. Front throws, with one hand, simply require that the ball should be propelled off the crosse as the latter is thrust forward; but the throw we are now describing ​requires a twist of the stick from the flat side uppermost, so as to bring the tip up. Without this twist, the ball could not be sent to any distance.
For long swift shots, run the ball down to the lower angle, and put all possible force into the throw from beginning to end. Illustration 5 shows the preparation the instant before pitching, and immediately after a dodge. If the throw is to be high or straight, elevate the crosse at the end; if a grounder, depress it. An excellent series of shots may be made at goal by throwing past the left side close to the left leg, and depressing the crosse so as to bring it perpendicular. If the thrower partially hides his crosse from the goal-keeper until the ball is off, the line of vision will be shorter, and the shot more likely to puzzle.
Over Head.—This is much used by the Indians, and is important in cases where you have not time to use any other to advantage. It is done by picking up the ball in front, and immediately sending it over head; or may be done more coolly when carrying the ball. The head should be turned quickly around, and a glance got at the point to be thrown to; but it is an advantage to be able to throw accurately in ​answer to signals without looking. In many instances during the game, this over-head throw will be found useful, especially during close play, when persistently followed by a checker. The ball should start from the top or centre surface; but more accurate shots are made by the former.
Past Right Side.—Some fine shots to goal can be made past the side of the body which corresponds with the arm used to carry the crosse. The right side of the body half faces the point aimed at; the right hand grasps the butt, and the left above the collar. A parallel sweep is then given.
Over Right or Left Shoulder—This throw is often necessary, and is easily made accurate for throwing to any point. May be used for short and long shots, and is identical with the same throw practised in "The Ring."
POSITION OF THE BALL ON THE NETTING PREVIOUS TO THROWING.
It will be conceded, we think, by players who reflect at all upon the theory of Lacrosse, that the most of throws are more effectively delivered when the ball starts from certain parts of the netting. If ​you observe good throwers, you will see them manœuvre to get it on a certain part of the crosse just as they are about to throw, and regulate—often unconsciously—velocity, distance and style by this principle. We do not say that there is an exact focus; but we know there is almost one.
The velocity of a ball, propelled with the greatest force, is increased in proportion to its nearness to the termination of the lower angle at the start. The secret of hard, swift throwing is to start the ball from the lower angle, as seen in Illustration 5th.
A ball can be thrown farther from the lower angle than from any other part of the crosse.
Long shots can be well guided, if thrown from the lower angle; but medium throws are better guided, as a rule, if thrown from the centre or top surface.
Throws of the same kind may require more or less impulse, according to the point thrown to. A throw to a man of your side, as a rule, requires a different momentum—and consequently a different starting place on the netting—than the same throw to goal. If you make a certain throw to a man, and expect ​him to catch it, it is not likely you want to throw in the same way to the goal you are attacking. It is not uncommon to regulate the accuracy and speed of the short shots by a certain guard of the muscles, and a physical control of the wrist and arm; when the fact is, that the position of the ball on the netting is the surer guide.
It may not be generally known, even by old players, that a goal-keeper can easier judge a thrown ball, if it starts from and leaves the same part of the netting, providing, of course, that he sees the beginning and end of the throw. We have proved this a hundred times; and believe the reason is that the ball does not twist the same, and sometimes not at all, when it leaves the spot it starts from, and that the line of vision between the goal-keeper's eye and it, as it originally lies on the stick in the action of beginning the throw, is less unbroken. When a ball is thrown by one hand, at goal, from the top surface, its momentum is less, and it has no netting to roll over, and the eye quicker catches its direction; but if thrown from the centre or lower angle its momentum is correspondingly greater, and the length it rolls, as well ​as the speed it gets, makes it a more effective and dangerous shot.
VARIETIES OF SHOTS.
It is well to remember that there are four varieties of balls, all of which are different in their effect, and that they are differently delivered, according as the shot is to a player of your side or to goal.
Straight Balls are those thrown within the height of the flag-poles, and which do not touch the ground en route. If swift and accurate, they are very effective at goal, and are absolutely indispensable on the field for short, quick throws. Thrown at the flags, goal-keeper's difficulty of stopping them is increased in ratio as the ball meets his centre, thus:—
* Below the knee.
* The knee.
* The head, or above it.
* Chest.
* Stomach.
The latter is the most difficult ball to stop when it shoots within a foot of the goal-keeper's body, to ​either side; because, if it is unforeseen and sudden, as most all shots are to goal-keeper, it meets the part of his crosse (the lower angle) which offers the smallest surface for stopping, and, in attempting to block, his arms are cramped. When you get between point and goal-keeper, and have a chance to throw into the flags, prefer a straight throw on a line with the centre of the keeper's body.
Grounders are those thrown along the ground, and are mostly used at goal. May be any speed or distance, and though easier to stop than any others, they are always insinuating and puzzling, especially if thrown from a short distance. They are most effective at dusk, as they cannot be seen quickly when thrown swift.
Hoppers are those which strike the ground in front of goal from a curved throw or grounder, and hop or rise suddenly. All grounders are liable to this on uneven ground. The home men should examine the ground near goal, and if they see a furrow or ridge parallel or opposite, make use of it by throwing swift grounders which will strike them. The theory of hoppers is, that if started as grounders the goal-keeper prepares to receive them ​as such; and when they rise, they hop so suddenly that he may not bring up his crosse sufficiently quick to stop them. This fact will make the player cautious about throwing grounders to men of his own side on a rough ground.
Curved Throws are those thrown in a curve, either on the field or at goal. In general field play they are very much used, and have a pretty effect as they rise and fall. They are preferable whenever you cannot throw the ball to a point without the possibility of its being stopped on the way; also when your home men are at the enemy's goal-crease ready to strike them in, and whenever the sun is in goal-keeper's eyes. Slow curvilinear balls dropped into the flags from any distance are harder to judge than any other. The Indians know this; they always throw them when their home is at the goal-crease. This pitching on instead of at goal has been much overlooked in pale-face play.
SWIFT AND SLOW BALLS.
It is sometimes necessary to throw swift, and sometimes slow. Whenever it is an object to throw ​to a man of your side, the sooner the ball gets to him the better; and if a swift throw will facilitate that end better than a slow, by all means throw swift. In throwing to goal, however, we wish to correct a delusion, and that is, that "swift shots are more likely to win games than slow." We have lost more games by the latter, and believe it to be the experience of every goal-keeper, white and red. Slow balls at cricket are harder to time. Most batsmen like fast bowling. If only swift balls took wickets, where would be the bowling fame of George Parr? In goal we find swift shots easier to time and stop than slow, because they do not deviate as much from the original line, and are not as likely to slip. Of course, if a goal-keeper is afraid of them, swift balls will soon knock him end-ways. Curved balls get any speed they may have, from the altitude from which they fall and the distance they were thrown, and their speed cannot be regulated to ensure accuracy.
If either the ball or the netting of the crosse are wet, the throw is easier accelerated, though velocity is mainly regulated by the force put into the ​pitch. All swift shots require a tight grasp of the crosse, and a sudden jerking propulsion.
LONG AND HIGH THROWS.
Long throws are more fashionable than advisable, and more pretty than necessary. If men are particular about fielding, and can play into each other's crosses, it is scarcely ever absolutely preferable to make a long shot. It must be a principle in Lacrosse as in war, to never waste your shot; and the tendency of long throwing is to be made the rule, and to destroy confidence in one another. It will be found, too, that men noted for long pitches are apt to neglect short practice, and are deficient in that nice perception which guides the variations of thrown dodges, frisking, &c. However, this is not always so, and long throws are sometimes important, when, for instance, they completely destroy a strong bunching attack. When your goal is crowded, or the enemy have managed to rally more men to the attack than you have for defence, a long, judicious throw checkmates the assault, and gives an advantage to your side, who are stronger where the ball falls, in consequence of the bunching attack of your opponents.
​The average long throw with the regulation crosse is about 120 yards, but our crack throwers average 140, and several have thrown from 100 to 190 yards. The pale-face throws farther than the red-skin.
If you must make a long shot, do not make it too high. High throws in Lacrosse are as ineffective as high hits in cricket, and we know the latter make low averages. Twenty feet high is a good height for general throwing; but it will be remembered, of course, that the same law of gravitation in long shots applies to long throws, and the farther you want to send the ball the greater must be its elevation. It is too common, though, to make high throws for the sake of show and individual applause; and once men go to work to please spectators, without consulting the first principles of scientific play, then all chance of improvement ends.
"The shortest distance between two points is straight out." Apply this rule to every long throw. Supposing you throw to one of your side who has one or two opponents in his vicinity, you evidently want him to get it with impunity. Now, the higher throw, the more time is lost in the ascent and descent, ​and the opponents profit by it, because they see the point aimed at, and leach it as soon, and perhaps sooner, than the ball. It needs no great knowledge of Dynamics to understand, that the higher a ball is thrown, the more its speed is retarded in rising, and accelerated in the fall; and consequently, that accurate calculation as to the time it will take to send it to a given point, cannot be made with the same certainty as if it was thrown straight.
THROWING TO GOAL.
All throws to goal should depend upon the attitude and reputation of the keeper. If he is fearless of swift balls, give him slow, and vice versa. If he stands in the exact centre, throw at the side corresponding to the hand which grasps the butt of his stick. For instance, if his right hand is at the butt, throw past his right side, and vice versa. The theory of this is, that it cramps the arms and crosse a little more to stop balls, especially grounders and low straights, which come on the same side as that which corresponds to the carrying grasp, as that arm is then partly in the way. If he stands to one side, throw at the side most open. If goal-keeper's ​crosse is held as if expecting a curved ball, throw a grounder; if down, expecting a grounder, throw a straight or curved; if held in the position of "ready," make your best and favorite shot.
PRECISION.
To throw with precision should be your aim; not only to throw about where one of your men is, but to throw into his crosse ; not merely to throw to goal, but to either side, high or low of the keeper. Precision depends upon steady arms and wrists, keen eyes, and a perfect command of the ball on the crosse. The arms and eyes work together. Always take time to aim when possible. Keep a stiff grasp of the stick.
DEFLECTION.
If the wind is strong you must make allowance for deflection, especially in long throws, either by throwing with more force, or more to windward of the point aimed at. You can tell the way the wind blows by the goal flags.
LOOK BEFORE YOU THROW.
The slightest glance at the point to be thrown to is of the greatest importance to make a dead shot. ​You may and should be able to throw well without it, but sure shots without it are more the exception than the rule. Looking is almost equivalent to aiming, and whether you aim deliberately or imperceptibly, it materially affects your shot. A practised thrower learns to pitch to a point quickly and with precision, as an old sportsman learns to bring his gun up to his shoulder, and fire with an unconscious aim. The arms and wrists must be educated to obey the eye. As a general thing, you have no chance for slow calculation, and whether you have or not, it is advisable to practise throwing instantaneously. Keep your eye on the point aimed at until the ball has left your crosse, or let it follow the ball the instant it leaves the netting.
TWISTING THE BALL.
Many players deny that the ball can be twisted by pre-meditation. We acknowledge it is the acme of difficulty to do it, but we are convinced that it can be done, though not always. It is sometimes done unknowingly, when throwing to goal. The theory of twisted balls is this: all balls thrown from ​a crosse, rotate to a certain extent, but they are more circular than rotatory,—that is, they revolve more around the circle, as when thrown along the ground, then spin on their own axis. The effect of a mere circular spinning ball when blocked by the goal-keeper, is, at the most, to revolve up or down the length of the netting; but a rotatory ball twists across the face of the netting, from right to left, or left to right. The result is evident. The width of the netting being much narrower than the length, the ball is more likely to twist off into goal. You cannot twist grounders in this way. To twist straight and curved balls, requires a knack of the wrists and arms, to give the ball a twist from right to left on the crosse as it is leaving. It should leave the crosse at the bend, or if the throw is short, a little below. The ball should have a ring painted around it, by which you can see the spin. If the ball and crosse are wet, the spin is greater. If a perfect twist could be given to the ball, so that it would spin from right to left, or left to right, when it is blocked, there is no doubt but that "blocking" such shots would be almost as risky as trying to catch them. Here is a chance for invention—how to make the ​ball twist on its own axis with certainty; for we do not say we have discovered the correct principle.
DO NOT HESITATE WHEN THROWING.
One of the most important qualifications of a good thrower, is to pitch with as little hesitation as possible. It is aggravating to see a man holding the ball and looking for the best place to throw ; and though it is well to pitch to the best place, it is folly waiting until a checker gets so near, that your anticipated throw is spoiled, and the man you proposed throwing to, probably checked while you were waiting. If you decide to throw, get all the opportunity and space you can, and do not risk a check. "There's many a slip," &c.; and if you do slip, and a checker within a few feet, your chances of retrieving it will be much lessened. The necessity for throwing very swift—when the ball is to be thrown to a player not checked, but about to be—would often be avoided by throwing instantly.
THROW GRACEFULLY.
Do not work your whole body as if you intended propelling yourself after the ball, or were griped. ​The ball seems to come to goal more suddenly from a thrower who merely uses his arms. The arms are the motive powers of propulsion, though certainly much force can be added by the body. The position in which you throw must be governed by circumstances, such as the chance and room you have, and the point to which you wish to pitch. A man who bends his body much at throwing to goal, gives goal keeper a preparatory warning where the ball is coming. We learned to know the part of the goal at which the ball would likely have to be stopped, by the position some awkward throwers assumed in the first act of pitching.
DANGEROUS THROWING.
Almost any throw may be made dangerous if you like, or do not care. Nearly all old players, and too many new ones, can relate some instance of personal temporary injury from dangerous throws; and there seems something so deliberately wicked in rash methods of throwing, when men know they must hurt some one, that we wonder any player of feeling or honour would use them. No hurt is an accident when you deliberately use the means almost certain ​of causing one; and we know no more disagreeable companion on the field, than a player who has a reputation for sending balls at the faces, stomachs, and legs of his rivals. A few general rules and we have done with this chapter. Never empty or give the ball into the crosse of another player to throw. When necessary to throw to a man closely checked, pitch a little beyond him, if he is good at a dash. Never touch the ball with your hand, to press it into the leading string before pitching. Above all, have confidence in your side, and remember that the greatest accuracy and skill are of little avail, if you ignore throwing into the crosses of your own men.