# Over Five Seas and Oceans, From New York to Bangkok, Siam, and Return/Chapter 7

Chapter VII.
M y understanding of the trouble between France and Siam is that it is owing principally to France's grasping disposition to overpower the small independent kingdoms in the East. I think it was about 1860 the French made a demand on the King of Siam for a certain piece of territory over in Anam, in fulfillment of an agreement made by one of the sons of the old king of Anam. This young Prince, after the death of his father, agreed to give the French the territory named if the French would put him on the throne in place of his brother, who was the legitimate heir. The work was consummated; and then the new King told the French that the King of ​Siam must consent to his giving the land as it was tributary to Siam. Then the French took up the cudgel of might against right, and began to intimidate the King of Siam, by bringing one of their gun boats up the River with flags flying and drums beating. The ship passed Packnam, which is a custom house, with their guns and cannon on board, which was a violation of the treaty obligations made with Western nations, Up the River came the gun boat with Count Castlenau on board. The demand was then made with all the bombast that a Frenchman can command, and it was refused. The King referred the matter to the Kalaholm, Prime Minister. He gave Count Castlenau an audience. After listening to the Count's demand, the Kalaholm asked "By what authority do you come here to treat with Siam for land? Where is your exequatur to act?" The Count said he had none. "Well," said his Excellency, "you had better go home ​and ask your Royal Master to give you some authority to act, and not come here with your gun boat and guns past Packnam in violation of treaty which says all guns shall be sent on shore, when a vessel is bound up the River."
The fortification of Packnam consists of only one fort on right hand side of the river as you go up. This fort was built more for appearance than anything else. An American 6-inch gun would knock spots out of it. The river at its month is very wide at high water, and about a half mile wide at low water. The channel is very narrow, with two sunken junks on either side. They were sunk there, loaded with stone, to keep the Burmese from entering the river. Bangkok, the capital of the Kingdom, is situated about 25 miles up, and, in my opinion, a very beautiful city as compared with other oriental cities. The people are very friendly, and, for aught I know. strictly honest and straightforward in their dealings with foreigners, except in ​a few instances, such as I have named — the wood dealer is one.
July 4, 1861. — Four or five of us Americans got up a Fourth of July celebration, consisting of a grand dinner, the best edibles that Singapore and Bangkok could give us. The table was set for 65 guests, in which there were Siamese nobles, Chinese of high grade. We sat at table and enjoyed the dinner, while a Siamese band gave us the best music they could, which means the fellow who can make the biggest noise is the best musician. After the cloth was removed toasts were given and drunk in water-champagne. The King of of Siam was represented by the Lord Mayor; the President of the United States by the writer; the Queen of England by Her Majesty's Consul. Everything went off just as we intended it should. We began the day by firing a national salute with the largest firecrackers we could get; and I tell you we made the welkin ring, for the crackers made a noise like small cannons. We fired 41 ​guns to salute our flag, 21 to salute the Siamese flag, and kept firing at intervals all day saluting everybody's flag. Thus the day, evening and night passed off very grandly with lots of fun. The natives enjoyed it as much as we did. We closed the grand fandango about 2 A. M. on the 5th, by S. P. Goodale proposing a toast to the writer, to which we responded with good cheer, although very tired. It took nearly all next day to clear up the debris and get in the flags, for we borrowed all the flags from the American ships at the outer anchorage, and all the captains came up to the dinner and had a good time.
Before leaving for home, the King sent his messenger, a noble, for me on Sunday morning, requesting an audience. I told the messenger that inasmuch as Sunday was a day of rest, and I had been in his country nearly five years, and had not violated one of my Christian principles, and as I was about taking my leave of Siam, I did not wish to violate or trespass upon
​the good examples I had tried to inculcate in the minds of his subjects; but added in my note that I would meet His Majesty at 10 next morning. He answered by note, saying my time was too early in the morning, but would meet me at 2 in the afternoon. When it was time to start for the Palace, I called away my gig (boat) and took with me the Rev. S. Matoon and Rev. R. Telford. When we arrived at the Palace we were conducted to the reception apartment, in front of which there were two elephants with all their fixings on, and also about 50 soldiers drawn up in line. Music was furnished by the King's brass band, with a French leader, who played "Star Spangled Banner," "Yankee Doodle," etc. Finally, the King came out and bid us welcome, and talked of many things pertaining to my stay in his Kingdom, and of the many regrets expressed by his brother, Prince Crom Alouing Wang-Sau, the Prime Minister, and other nobles, and closed the interview by requesting me to ​send him, at his expense, two boxes of American tobacco called Honey Dew. During the interview or audience, the King took off and put on his finger a magnificent ring. I began to think he intended to present it to me as a souvenir of his best wishes, but he did not.
He took this occasion to invite us to the crowning ceremony of his eldest son and heir to the throne of Siam, but as he had learned from Ma Millee that he did not participate in anything on One Ah Tit (Sunday), and Sunday would be the first day, he hoped we would all come on the other two days. We thanked His Majesty, and made our salaam, and were escorted to our boat, and left for home. On the day appointed we went to the crowning, and were given the best seats at the show and feast. The crowning of an oriental prince was something grand. To me it was a grand sight; in fact, it was to all of us who came from the far off western nation. The second day, the young prince was arrayed in gor
​geous apparel, and carried on a very handsome sedan chair by four native noblemen, with two nobles to steady him, as the gold decorations on the young man would certainly weigh twenty pounds. They were interwoven with diamonds and other precious stones. The procession stopped in front of the writer, so I got a good look at the young prince as he was taken down from the sedan chair and was conducted into the temporary throne room where he was divested of his gorgeous apparel. Then he was taken up winding stairs to the top of a very high artificial mountain built of bamboo, and covered with green paper, and having miniature trees up the sides and on top. The whole thing was worthy of the occasion. The writer was very much pleased with all he saw. After the ceremony we were conducted to the banqueting hall, and sat down to a bountiful feast, gotten up in true American and English style, with beer, wine and other liquors for those who drank. The whole thing ​passed off in a manner worthy of an oriental King. The then young prince is now the reigning monarch of that Kingdom.
On my arrival in New York I called on John Anderson & Co., 114 Liberty street, who very readily said they would put up a dozen boxes or six gross of tobacco into very handsome boxes, and forward them free of charge, for the privilege of of advertising the order received from the King of Siam. I dictated the order to his agent, which made about one-fifth of a column in the daily papers. The tobacco was put up in grand style. First it was put into very handsome paper boxes, then into a perfectly beautiful mahogany case, with this inscription in gold letters: "For the first King of Siam and Sovereign of Laos." This case was on exhibition for some time. Then it was put into a strong pine box and shipped to Bangkok via Hong Kong, care Messrs. A. A. Low Bros., Chinese merchants; from Hong Kong Bangkok, care of the Rev. S. Matoon, of Presby​terian mission, and forwarded by him to the Palace. The King received the shipment and expressed his thanks.
Last, but not least, the steamer "Viscount Canning" arrived, and I got all ready for my departure for Hong Kong and home. Some of my friends waited upon C. G. Allen to charter the "Jack Waters" to take me down to the bar. He declined, saying he had made all arrangements to take me down at his own expense, which he did in noble style.