# Over Five Seas and Oceans, From New York to Bangkok, Siam, and Return/Chapter 8

Chapter VIII.
W e started from Bangkok about 9 o'clock on the 13th of March, 1862, and arrived alongside of the steamer about 1 o'clock. Captain Ah Choon was up to all good things, for he had the cabin table spread with a grand collation, which we all enjoyed.
After doing full justice to the good things which Captain Ah Choon had provided, the cloth was removed. S. P. Goodale, the United States Consul, rose in his seat and proposed the name of our guest (the writer), to which Mr. C. G. Allen responded, eulogizing the writer in the highest degree. Then there were several other speeches from the Portugese, ex-American, Russian, British and the Hamburgh Consuls. All spoke in ​about the same strain, by crediting me for more than I thought I deserved. At the conclusion of S. P. Goodale's remarks, a boy handed him two bags containing about 600 Mexican dollars. This amount he said was contributed by my friends in Bangkok for the purpose of purchasing a set of silver, and to be kept to remind me of the friends I left behind me in Bangkok, and also to refresh my memory of the many happy days I passed with them during my four and a half years residence in that city. He said my friends were legion; he did not know of a man, woman or child but what respected me for my manhood and Christian character, from the King down to the Cooley population. In fact, I think he eulogized me too highly to my face. If I had been dead, then he could say what he pleased. At the close of his remarks he presented me with the two bags of treasure. After considerable talking, laughing and crying, the entire escort returned to the "Jack Waters," and cast off their lines and ​started for Bangkok, and left me alone with my own feelings, for I certainly did feel bad at parting with so many staunch friends. I watched the receding "Jack Waters" until she passed around Mud Point and entered the river. My mind began to run over my past four and a half years with the natives, and I saw nothing in my career amongst them but what was of the most friendly character; and I will say the Siamese are today a kind, generous people. I traveled through a large part of their country, and met with nothing but kindness. In some places where we passed, the natives, who never saw a white man, and to whom we looked strange and ate strangely with knife, fork and spoon, would observe us very closely and watch how we handled the tools. Why should I not feel sad at leaving so many people, native and foreign, whom I loved?
The captain went back to the city with the steamer.
​14th. — The captain came on board and ordered steam up, and the anchor hove short. At 9 A. M. we started, everybody bustling about, getting the ship ready for sea. We passed Cape Liant out into the open Gulf of Siam. Farewell to Siam! I came to you with my forebodings four years, six months and fifteen days ago! I now go away with many heartfelt feelings of respect. May God grant that the day is not far distant when you may all see the beauties of the religion of Jesus Christ, and turn from your idol worship to the one living and true God!
19th. — Passed Pulo Cordore, 12 miles distant; wind N.E. by E., with very bad coal.
20th. — Kept off two points to let the sails draw.
21st. — Fresh breeze, with heavy sea running. Sighted the Island of Pulo de Moore — large island, inhabited by a very industrious class of Cochin Chinese. 4 P. M. — Every prospect of a very dirty night.
​22d. — Heavy sea running. Ship heading N.E. by E. Heavy weather, with rain. No sun to- day. 5 P. M. — Put the ship on the port tack, and stood in for the Gulf of Tonquin. On account of bad coal could not make steam.
23d. — Doing well for us — about 6 knots; ship heading E.N.E.
24th. — No wind, with long rolling sea. Kept close up to the Parasels Shoals in 4 fathoms. Lat., 14 N. Ship rolling like a log. No steam. With such weather the ship, with good coal, could make 12 knots. This is all on the Owen Pher Py San. This is the Northeast Mantzoon season, and we may expect a snorter from N.E. at any time. If we do get it, good bye, John, for we will hand in the number of our mess. Lat. 15–40.
26th, 6 A. M. — Stopped the engines to clean tubes and back bridges all right. Lat., 17 N.; long., 113 E.
27th. — All right, making 7 knots. Wind N. ​half E. Stopped two hours to get clear of the land.
28th, 6 A. M. — We made the Leana Island. Weather thick and hazy, and to me very cold. Quite a number of fishing junks outside fishing with their long seines, end of which are made fast to two junks, and they sail about 150 feet, dragging the seine with them. After a certain time, they come in and take the fish out of the net. About 9 o'clock passed the Ass's Ears, and came to in the harbor of Hong Kong, after a very tedious passage of 14 days.
Hong Kong is an English colony under British rule, and is a very fine city, built on the side of a hill, very high, the top of which is called Victoria Peak, which has a marine telegraph station. There are some very fine granite buildings belonging to the English and Americans and other foreign merchants, Russell & Co., Augustine Heard & Co., Oliphant & Co., Thomas Hunt & Co. It is a very ​lively city. At this writing, there are say fifty sail of ships of various nationalities at anchor.
29th. — I took a sail up to Wampoo and Canton on the American steamer, White Cloud. Wampoo is a place for mechanical work. There are three very fine dry docks, and a machine shop. The ship N. B. Palmer, belonging to A. A. Low & Bros., of New York, 1 went on board of, and engaged passage and state room for New York, $400. Everybody is getting rich.
30th. — The City of Canton is a walled city of about 5,000,000 population including the white population about 1,500,000 live on the water. I saw about one-eighth of the city and I was in the great Confucius temple of five hundred gods. I went inside of the wall and met nothing but friendship and kindness from the Cantonese. 1 was carried in a sedan chair by two coolies up on top of a high hill where ​I could see all over the city, all a bustle, everybody busy. Streets very narrow, about nine feet from curb to curb, principal business tea and silk, no loafers or idle men or women.
31st. — I again started for Hong Kong on the White Cloud. The Canton river is beautiful, having clusters of islands, and the banks of the river presented high mountains, very picturesque.
April 1st. — Nothing but going about.
3d. — Breakfasted with Capt. Treadwell on board of the American clipper ship. Sagamore.
4th. — Breakfasted with Capt. Rowe on the American Barque, Homer, and dined on board the British Barque, Alicia, Capt. Morse. Between the 5th and 10th I did as I pleased, visiting the various Chinese shops, and buying trinkets, silk for dresses, and getting my wardrobe, such as all kinds of linen, etc., ready for a long voyage. I went to dinner on board of the American ship, Golconda, Capt. ​I have forgotten his name, and I ought to know it for I had business with him afterwards. The "Golconda had two large painted eyes round her horse pipes. The only way I could make my Sampan man, Boston Jack, understand what ship I wanted to go to — I said "Jack, you savy that piece of Melican ship have got eye?" He answered, "I savy plenty." Then I asked, "Jack, why that ship have got eye?" He asked, "You no savy?" I said no; then he said, "No got eye, no can see; no can see, no can savy. How can?" That is to say, if a ship has no eyes, it can't see where to go.
14th. — I sent my baggage on board of the Palmer, consisting of 14 packages. I am just tired out walking, and being carried about in a sedan chair, and feasting, as my friendly captains of many American clipper ships insist on my breakfasting and dining with them, so that I ate only a few meals at my hotel, ​the Oriental up on the hill, a very fine American Hotel kept by Theo. Andrews & Company.
19th. — I paid my bill, and left for the ship. After passing the night with my friend Capt. Treadwell of the American ship, Sagamore, here I am on board of the Palmer, and the Chinese pilot in command, who ordered the anchor hove short, and loose the topsails. We were lying nearly inside of all the ships, the pilot backed the fore topsail to give the ship stearnway, and backed the ship out through the other ships with her head pointed outward.