# History of Oregon Literature/Chapter 10

CHAPTER 10
THE FIRST PERIODICAL LITERATURE
From Vol. 1, Oregon Spectator, 1846–1847 "I know of only three of the volumes of the first year of the Oregon Spectator now preserved in Oregon—one in the Portland Library, one in the of. Historical Society Library, and one in the hands of a private collector. ” e. Ruth Rockwood. THE Oregon Spectator at Oregon City seems to have started as an $800 enterprise, for the Oregon Printing Association that established it sold “about 80 shares, at $10 each.” We are told that the town at that time had about 80 houses and a population of something like 500. In addition to this metropolis, already of such healthy proportions and growing with every immigra tion, there were six other towns in 1846 from which subscriptions might be expected—Linnton, whose am bitious residents were “persecuted by mosquitoes day and night”; Portland, with a population of “more than 60 souls”; Astoria, with a population of about 30; Multnomah City, Linn City, Clackamas City; and Salem, hardly big enough to count, but hopefully laid out into lots. Then there were the various rural settlements, French Prairie, Tualaty Plains, Clatsop Plains, Sauvie's Island, and other old ones, and new ones springing up. But reading the neighbor's paper was apparently a practice irritating to publishers then as it is today. The circulation of the Oregon Spectator during the first year was 155. Those folios are rare and precious now. Only a very few have been preserved. The $800 was used to buy a press, type, paper, ink and other materials in New York. The type, i... s vicissitudes after the deat... the Spectato... ​1855,
went to the Daily Union in Portland, to the Marine Gazette in Astoria and back to Oregon City. The little Washington hand press journeyed to Salem, to Rose- burg, to Eugene, and is now used for making proofs by the University of Oregon Press. It is estimated that the little press, worked to capacity by an energetic operator, could have run off the whole issue of the Spectator in an hour. We can imagine with what eagerness the very first copies, still damp in their "clear type and tasteful style," were received in Oregon City on February 5, 1846. It was the first paper printed on the Pacific Coast, ahead of Alta California by half a year. It was 1 5 by 11 inches in size, had four pages, four columns to the page, and came out every other week. Its pur pose was "to promote science, temperance, morality, and general intelligence." The first printer was John Fleming. For a while in 1848 it had to suspend be cause it was left without a printer on account of the gold rush. The paper's chief trouble, however, was with its editors, who had rough going and were short lived. The first editor was W. G . T'Vault, of whom the strongly prejudiced W. H . Gray said: "A man more unfit for the position could scarcely have been found in the country." At any rate, although he was presi dent of the Printing Association, he lasted only through the fifth number and was followed by H. A . G. Lee, who edited nine numbers. The next three numbers —the 15th, 16th and 17th —got published without a formal editor. After this interregnum a man was selected who ought to have had some longevity. ​
He was fresh from the east, already had editorial experience, "as a well-read student had few equals," wielded a "graceful pen," later became governor of Oregon, and had a county named after him. He was George L. Curry but he was succeeded in the 25th number of the second volume by Judge Aaron E. Wait, who has been listed in another chapter among the orators. Wilson Blain, D. J. Schnebley and C. P. Culver came along like oxen to the slaughter. Then in 1855 the Oregon Spectator "winked out," a quaint term sometimes used in the old days to denote newspaper extinction—it was sold to start another paper under another name.
The contents, in which we are more interested here than in the guillotined editors, have been well summed up as follows by Mrs. Frances Fuller Victor:
The Oregon Spectator has preserved some of the earliest poetry of the country, often without signature. Undoubtedly some of the best was written by transient persons, English officers and others, who, to while away the tedium of a fron tier life, dallied with the muses, and wrote verses alternately to Mount Hood, to Mary, or to a Columbia River salmon. Mrs. M. J. Bailey, George L. Curry, J. H. P., and many noms de plume appear in the Spectator. Mount Hood was apostrophized frequently, and there appear verses addressed to the different immigrations of 1 843, 1 845, and 1 846, all laudatory of Oregon, and encouraging to the newcomers. Lieutenant Drake of the Modeste wrote frequent effusions for the Spectator, most often addressed "To Mary;" and Henry N. Peers, another English officer, wrote "The Ad ventures of a Columbia River Salmon," a production worth preserving on account of its descriptive as well as literary merit.
The verse and prose of this chapter, all a ​as can be determined by local contributors and all dealing with the Oregon country as it was in that long ago beginning period, have been taken from Volume 1, 1846–1847. This was the period when W. G. T'Vault, H. A. G. Lee and George L. Curry were editors, and of the editorless numbers when John Fleming, the printer, probably carried on. Regardless of their varying stands on the issue of the day that cost them their heads, they followed a common policy of preserving the paper's purely literary flavor. We have and hold the literature in gratitude, even if it was only a condition that made these editors wise—if it was scarcity of exchanges and boiler-plate that caused the hospitality of all three towards local poets and writers. Perhaps H. A. G. Lee should be placed a little ahead of the rest for his idea of using as filler the material from the Repository of the Falls Association.
1
The Willamette River
From Oregon Spectator, Vol. 1, No. 2, Oregon City, February 19, 1846. W. G. T’Vault, Editor
It will probably be interesting to many, and particularly so to those who anticipate visiting Orego... some future time... know somethin... the Willamette, the Great Fall... which are no... rapidly coming into notice, an... learn somethin... the many cities that are springing u... the neighborhoo... the most important water privilege wes... the Rocky Mountains. The Willametter river takes its ris... the California mountains... abou... degree... north latitude... s cours... nearly north, winding through beautiful fertile prairies, now and then skirte... lofty forest... fir, pine, and cedar, receiving many considerable tributaries bot... the ​east and
west—all of which have traversed their whole length through a rich and fertile country, and, in many places, we might say, bounded with beautiful and luxuriant meadows, encircled with the lofty fir, and interspersed with beautiful groves of oak. But to describe the Willamette i... s descent, time and space will not permi... t o enter minutely either into a de scriptio... the rive... the country adjoining. On arriving near the Falls, “the river spreads out into a wide, deep basin, and runs slowly and smoothly until within a half a mil... the Falls, whe... s velocity increases... s width diminishes, eddies are formed... which the water turns bac... i f lot... make the plunge; bu... forced forwar... the wate... the rear,and when still nearer... breaks upon the volcanic rocks scattered across the channel, and then... i f resigne... ... fate, smooth... s agitated surges, and precipitates dow... almost perpendicula... twenty-five feet, presenting a somewhat whitened column.” The rising mist... a pleasant day, forms... the ray... the sun, a beautiful bow—the whole forming a sight, the grandeu... which ha... b e see... b e appreciated. Below the falls, for the distanc... half a mile, the chan ne... the rive... confine... ledge... basaltic rock... about two hundred yard... width. About one mile below the falls enters the Clackamas river from the east, which take... s rise near Mount Hood, on... the perpetual snow peak... the Cascade mountains. Here are the Clackamas rapids, another obstacl... the navigatio... the Willamette; but the diffi culties here presented ar... minor importance—at almost any stag... water, the boat... the Hudson Bay Company ascend and descend with but little difficulty. From this plac... the mout... the Willamette, a distanc... twenty-five miles, navigatio... good... the tide run... t o the foo... the Clackamas rapids. The Willamette, runnin... s whole course from sout... north, enters the Columbi... about latitude 46 degs... min. north, longitude 122 degs... min. ​west.
On the east side of the Willamette, at the falls, the land is claimed by Dr. John McLaughlin, who laid out Oregon City in the year 1 842. The many advantages presented for the growth and prosperity of a manufacturing city is mani fest to the most casual observer. We are informed that where Oregon City now stands, it was, three years ago, a dense forest of fir and underbrush. The march of improvement has been with gigantic stride. The city is now incorporated with a population of not less than 500 souls, and about eighty houses, to-wit: Two churches, two taverns, two blacksmith shops, two cooper shops, two cabinet shops, four tailor shops, one hatter shop, one tannery, three shoe shops, two silver smiths, and a number of other mechanics; four stores, two flouring and two saw mills, and a lath machine. One of the flouring and one of the saw mills, together with the lath machine, were erected and put in operation by a company of American citizens, associated together under the name of the "Oregon Milling Company," and until within a few weeks past, the flouring mill was conducted as a public mill, grinding for the settlers for toll... , however, has been changed from doing custom work to that of exchange, giving a certain number of pounds of flour for a bushel of wheat. The mill owned by Dr. John McLaughlin has never done any custom grinding, but exchanges flour for wheat. We are satisfied that the march of improvement would have been much greater at Oregon City... nails and paints could have been obtained sufficient to meet the demands of the citizens. On the west side of the river, immediately opposite the falls, the lan... claimed by Robert Moore, Esq., who has also laid out a city called Linn City, and improvements are going ahead. We are informed that Mr. Moore has sold one half of the interest he claims in the water power at the falls, to a Mr. Palmer of Indiana. From our acquaintance with Mr. Palmer, we feel warrante... saying that he will at an early time, prosecute, with energy, the erecting of machinery on the west side of the river, unless prevented by the g ​ov
ernment of the United States, reserving the water power at the falls. Linn City contains one tavern, one chair manu factory, one cabinet shop, one gunsmith shop, and one wagon shop. Next on the list of cities comes Multnomah City, laid out by Hugh Burns, Esq., immediately adjoining Linn City, and opposite to Oregon City. Multnomah City is located on a beautiful site, and must, in a short time, be a city in appear ance as well as name. The falls of the Willamette affords ample water privileges for the erection of machinery of every description, to any extent desired; and we believe that, in a few years, there will be constructed a canal on each side of the river, commencing at the head of the falls and locked down for a distance of one mile, which improvement would afford power for the manufacturing of everything necessary for internal purposes as well as transportation, with those advantages, together with the great quantity of timber im mediately in our neighbor-hood —a healthy climate, a pro ductive soil, and minerals yet to be found, we are sanguine that the time is not far distant when we must become great, and we hope, good. 2 The Falls Association From Oregon Spectator, Vol. 1 , No. 6, April 16, 1846 H. A. G. Lee, Editor "The Falls Association was instituted in January, 1844, for the mutual advancement of its members, in discussion and composition, since when, many animated debates, on interesting and useful sub jects, have taken place — perhaps, we might say, too animated occa sionally, when the question affected our peculiar political situation; if no very weighty results have been produced, it tended at least to relieve the monotony of our drizzly winters, and something more, if we may infer from the numerous assemblage ofttimes witnessed on the nights of meeting. "The essays and compositions having been preserved, we shall, with the permission of the members, occasionally call from the re pository, such as we may concieve worthy of placing in a spare column of the 'Spectator,' as among the early effusions of Oregon ​."
From the Repository of the Falls Association “Upon Mount Hood I stand, And with rapt gaze explore The valley, and that patriot band Upon Columbia's shore. If the contemplation of ruins of former greatness, with the long grass o'ertopping the mouldering walls, gives rise to melancholy reflections and sombre thoughts, how opposite and exceedingly delightful, are the feelings engendered and excited by a meditative view of scenes, just bursting from torpitude and insignificance, into life and animated import ance—a sterile and savage wilderness just budding into a fertile and civilized region; such feelings are mine—as take my fancied stand on yonder snow-clad peak, with naught above me, save heavens’ high canopy, and the occasional passing of the lordly eagle, who, floating mid air on his ex pansive wings, screams with delight his praise of love and liberty. There, with a breast throbbing with rapturous hope, I view the plains of far west Oregon, gradually give forth the pleasing demonstration of the presence of the Anglo Saxon race, “not as conquerors with roll of drum—not as the flying with silence and with fear,” but proud, erect and free—the improver of nature and the tiller of the soil— producing vegetation where none e'er grew before, and where one blade was only seen, making tens appear—what obstacles has not that race removed, to make advantages apparent, and what transition will they not produce in this selected portion of the western world! A few short years will scarce roll o'er, ere, instead of glancing far and wide, to find a well tilled farm and comfortable abode, 'twill be more difficult to point out a spot without such an appendage, where now the mills appear but rare, their absence will be rarer still; and many a spot, where curls the smoke from matted wigwams barely seen, hundreds of well filled hearths will blaze around, sending forth their rolling columns to the skies, as a mighty cloud of incense, from the cheerful groups within. Cities will arise and towns spring from their sites, ​
as if by spell of genius 'tis—the genius of enterprise, in dustry, and skill. Each revolving year will bring her thou sands on the wings of hope, to add their portions of divided toil, and reap the benefits of our temperate clime and virgin soil. Methinks I see the present starting band of hardy pio neers, the sister band, of that which last arrived, on tiptoe, watching to move at the command. On, on they come, and each year echoes still, they come! Then will the glassy sur face of thy basaltic barrier'd stream, O, proud Columbia, which now rolls at my feet, with naught to stud thy bosom but the rude canoe, be fretted and chafed with mimic surf, by the sailless and majestic monuments of Fulton—then will thy old companions, the lofty and gigantic pines, fall victims to the demand of that leviathan, steam; and where now one solitary craft is anchored seen, the towering masts of hundreds will appear, bringing the treasures and luxuries of the Pacific, and receiving, in return, the more solid and use ful surplus of Oregon's multifarious productions. Thy shores, so uninviting at this moment, will then be wharfed and warehoused along their margins, and strong built forts will frown from thy o'erhanging crags—thy embouchure, with bar so dangerous to the stranger, will cause no longer fear or dread, for watchful pilots, with experienced knowledge, will steer each bark to port, safe from the rocks, the shoals, the waves and wind. Thy noble name till now almost un known, will pass from hence to the Polynesian isles, from isles to Indus, China and Japan, as an ample depot of de sired stores—a refitting port of the North Pacific, and where resides that enterprising band who crossed the mountain barrier from the east. Yes, Oregon, thou once despised land of crags and peaks! soon shall thy vales be blazoned to the world, as richer than those climes where mines abound; thy treasures grain, more precious far, than pearls or gems from famed Golconda's depths—for, where pale famine holds her melancholy court, or golden lanas yield no amount of food, the balance of exchange will in thy favor be, as life to death. And though the hazy fog of moisture hangs darkening o'er ​
thy plains for near three long and weary months of winter, and the dim sun scarce glimmers through the storm, yet as the smile of social love repays with mental light the melan choly day, so does thy spring burst smiling on our senses, and like the returning waters of the distant Nile, create fertility and joy around; and those who now are leaving thee for other lands, in hopes to better still their lots on earth, will, when they hear of thy advancing march and onward growth, repine they left thee in thy infancy, and wish that they had "rose with thy uprising, and strengthened with thy strength j" and when they learn that the usurping fern which held for countless years, unchecked control, had succumbed to the oft and well-timed action of the plough, or been strangled from the soil, by the tough and fibrous hemp, that bleating flocks o'er-spread the hills of Yam, and Kaneema's falls propel the weaving loom, then would they fain return and dwell upon the spots they once possessed, but what they then disposed a section for, would now scarce purchase one town lot. And who says I am an enthusiast? Be it so! I will enjoy the rich idea, though but in fancy— "In fancy's garb, I'll deck the beauteous bales, For beauty dwells where industry prevails." (signed) "owl" of mt. hood, oregon city, february 14, 1845 3 On Leaving the United States for Oregon, in 1843 From the Repository of the Falls Association. Printed in the Oregon Spectator, Oregon City, April 16, 1846 Your flowers are fair, your fields are green, Your summer sun hath golden sheen; Sweet be your sleep, and soft the bed
On Leaving Oregon for the U. S. in 1845, by the Same
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Oregon From the Repository of the Falls Association. Printed, in the Oregon Spectator, Vol. 1 , No. 7, April 30, 1846 H. A. G. Lee, Editor
5
Political Dialogue
"Communicated for the Spectator." In the Oregon Spectator for May 28, 1846
Hallo, friend! who do you vote for out of all these candidates?
Well, there is a precious sight of 'em, surely; but I rather think I shall give the General a pop.
Ah, indeed! What are your reasons?
Why, he says he's going for to move Oregon City down ​to Clackamas, for to build a stone bridge, and for to erect a powerful fine state house ; the brick's now making, close by.
Well, they are much needed, truly. Any thing else?
Oh, yes ! he's going for to kick that liquor law to thunder, and he's deadly opposed to taxing litigants, from principle, I know; won't you vote for him 'squire?
I'll think of it.
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May Morning In Oregon "For the Spectator." Oregon Spectator, Vol. 1, No. 9 May 28, 1846
FEBRUARY, 1844.
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Calvin Tibbets' Letter "For the Oregon Spectator." In Vol. 1, No. 16, September 3, 1846. J. Fleming, Editor
Mr. Editor:—The following are some of the facts relating to the affray and death of the Indian lately shot by Mr. Owens, in Clatsop county. A bullock belonging to me (C. Tibbets), was missing in March last. Some two months after, some Indians informed me that the Indian above alluded to, had killed the above mentioned bullock and eaten him. I spoke of it to the white inhabitants—they proposed to take the Indian and punish him. I refused to do it until I should learn more from the Indians—saying at the same time, if the Indian should come to my house, I would detain him, and then call on them for their interference. The bullock referred to, was in the care of Lewis Taylor, but, was sup posed to belong to me. In July last, '46, the deceased Indian called at L. Taylor's house, during which time Mr. Taylor called on Mr. Owens, and after consulting together, they agreed to detain the Indian for killing the bullock. After ​taking their guns from them (for there were two of them in company), the guilty one fled to the brush. In getting him out of the brush, he was very near stabbing Mr. Taylor with his knife, when out he rushed upon Mr. Owens, knife in hand, when nearly ready and in the act of thrusting it into Mr. Owens, he shot the Indian to prevent it. I make these statements to show that the Indian was not shot down as would seem to be represented in the Oregon Spectator, for the "modest compensation of a spanish cow," but in self defence. The Indians are still dissatisfied, and threatening the lives of the inhabitants.
CALVIN TIBBETS.
The above communication is signed by some four or five respectable citizens of Clatsop who were present during the affray, in addition to the signature of Mr. Tibbets, and all certify to the correctness of the above statement.—Ed. Spec.
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TO THE OREGON EMIGRANTS OF 1846 In the Oregon Spectator, Vol. 1, No. 17, September 17, 1846, with the following editorial note:
"We cheerfully insert the following anonymous poetical effusion communicated to us, believing it speaks the sentiments of hundreds of our old settlers who are anxiously awaiting the arrival of their friends and relatives, in order that they may have the extreme pleasure of congratulating and introducing them to their newly made homes."
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To the Emigration of 1845 By Maj. Sullivan Tune—“The Girl I Left Behind Me.”
In the Oregon Spectator, Vol. 1, No. 19, October 15, 1846, G. L. Curry, Editor
10
The Cascade Mountains
In Oregon Spectator, Vol. 1, No. 20, October 29, 1846, G. L. Curry, Editor
It was a delightful day in August, we had made our noon day halt at a brooklet that babied away at a very pleasant rate, between two ridges of the mountains, and in an hour's ride therefrom we entered the dense and extensive forests ​that fill the ravines and cover the heights of the Cascade Mountains, with the exception of the snow peaks, even to the valley of the Clackamas. We had been traveling over monotonous prairie land—through wild, wide, sandy wastes, with their prolific growth of the somber-looking Artemisia, with nothing to relieve the eye, or dissipate that sense of sickening sameness that day after day weighed upon our spirits. How gladly then did we hail the change, and gallop into the bosom of the majestic woods! The breath of the forest was laden with the scent of agreeable odors. What a feeling of freshness was diffused into our whole being, as we enjoyed the "pleasure of the pathless woods." In every glimpse we could catch of the open day, there, above and beyond us, were the towering heights, with their immense array of sky-piercing shafts.
Up, up, to an altitude fearfully astonishing —the ascent is steep and difficult, but there are many such ridges of the mountains to be crossed before you can descend into the flourishing valley of the Willamette. Down, down, into the deep, dark, and silent ravine, and when you have reached the bottom of it, by its precipitous descent, you may be able to form an idea of the great elevation which you had previously attained. The crossing of the Rocky Mountains, the Bear River range, and the "big hill" of the "Burlies," with the Blue Mountains, was insignificant in comparison to the passage of the "Cascades." Here is no natural pass—you breast the lofty hills and climb them—there is no way around them—no avoiding them, and each succeeding one you fancy is the dividing ridge of the range. How profound is the solitude of those old and far surrounding woods, which is only invaded by the dash of the mountain torrent, as it plunges downward to its more tranquil course in the distant valley.
The sun had sunk to the horizon, and was arraying itself in a magnificent drapery of crimson colored clouds as we emerged from the forest into a beautiful little glen, even upon the breast of snowy Mount Hood. Here was the fountain-head of rivers; and the foaming waters were rushing ​madly along, as if impatient to meet the embrace of the ocean. Above our heads, the peak of the mountain towered sublimely; its snow glittering in the departing rays of the sunlight.
The day died slowly away, and our camp-fire was soon in a cheerful blaze, for the icy breath of the mountain came down upon us with such a chilling effect, as to huddle us together within its comfortable vicinage. We could not but be impressed with the novelty of our situation. Here we were beside an object that had been visible to us at least a hundred miles distant; an object of interest, for we knew that beyond it was our new home—the country of our adoption, and that when we reached it, our long and wearisome journey would be, comparatively speaking, at an end. We were but seven souls, deep in the heart of the great wilderness, far from kindred and friends, and the enjoyments of civilized life, yet we had an unshaken confidence in that protecting Power in the hollow of whose hand we stood.
Our forms were soon stretched at length, and our heads pillowed upon the bosom of that mountain that had been with us for so long a period an object of desired attainment, for the "day had touched the hem of night's argment and tired and fatigued sunk into her concealing lap"; and there she was, enthroned upon Mount Hood, in her ebon mantle, 'in her starry crown, with eternal quiet upon her countenance."
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The Road to Oregon—No. 1
"For the Spectator." In Vol. 1, No. 26, January 21, 1847, G. L. Curry, Editor
From the great length of the journey from the United States to the Willamette valley, the many rivers to cross and mountains to climb, it is but reasonable to suppose that emigrants would meet with many accidents, and suffer many losses in its accomplishment. To lessen these casualties to ​those who follow them, should therefore be the wish, as it is the interest of every citizen of this valley.
To show the necessity of improvements upon the route, and the means adopted to effect them, I shall briefly refer to the time and manner in which the three preceding emgrations have accomplished the journey; and as the latter part of the road is much the most difficult, as well as most susceptible of improvement, all improvements worthy of notice, have been made or attempted west of the Rocky mountains.
The imigrants of 1843 were the first who traveled with wagons below Fort Hall—of these a part reached the Dalles of the Columbia in the month of November—others left their wagons and animals at Wallawalla, and a few remained at Dr. Whitman's Mission through the winter.
When we condiser the scarcity of grass and water along most of the route, and the making of the road for so great a distance, over wide plains of sage and sand, and almost impassable mountains, that they arrived on the Columbia at all, is a proof of energy and perseverance not often equaled by those who have followed them.
The obstacles so formidable had not been surmounted without much labor and loss, both of life and property; yet though so near the end of their journey, they experienced by far, more losses, hardship and sufferings in descending from the Dalles to the Willamette than in all the rest of the journey together; and almost in sight of the great object of their wishes, many were relieved from perishing by the benevolence of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the timely and gratuitous assistance of Capt, James Waters, a fellow emigrant.
The emigrants of 1844 fared even worse than those of the preceding year; arriving late in the season, when, by reason of the snow, the trail by Mount Hood was thought to be impassable; the greater part of their worn-down animals were swum to the north side of the Columbia, which is nearly a mile wide, driven down on that side and re-crossed ​in boats at Vancouver; a route of great danger, fatigue and exposure to the owners, and in which more than half the animals were lost. The rear of this emigration also, got no further than Dr. Whitman's Mission. Most of the citizens having experienced these calamities, and seeing their friends arrive in this distant country, shorn of the means of their comfort, or of becoming useful citizens, a desire to remedy these evils became universal.
Hopes were entertained that this could be effected by finding a nearer and better road into the Willamette valley, by a route formerly traveled by the Hudson's Bay Company, leaving the present road in the Malheur, or Powder river valley, and crossing the Cascade mountains by a pass near mount Jefferson. This was attempted by a party under the patronage of Dr. E. White, late Indian Agent of this Territory, in the summer of 1845. This party, after spending about a month in exploring the Cascade mountains up the Santiam river, and south of it, returned without accomplishing their object. As by this enterprise, Dr. White had been at considerable expense, the Legislature of Oregon passed a resolution recommending his claims to remuneration, "to the favorable consideration" of the Federal Government.
Two attempts have since been made to penetrate the Cascade mountains from the Willamette valley; and, as on one occasion, in case of success, the guide was to receive one thousand dollars, we have reason to believe they have been prosecuted, with due energy. Yet, I think these attempts should not be taken as final evidence that no pass can be found.
In support of this opinion, I would remark that their endeavors have been improperly directed; the great height of this range of mountains intercepting the ordinary rain clouds from the Pacific ocean, their western sides, from their great moisture, produce so heavy a growth of timber and undergrowth, that in such forests, traveling is extremely slow and laborious, and starting from the foot of the mountain, it is difficult to keep a correct course, and almost impossible to decide with certainty, whether a valley or ridge will termi​nate at the summit of the main range, or some lateral spur.
But from the east side of the mountains, as the plain of the river DeChutes is much higher than that of the Willamette, and from the dryness of the country, the sides of the mountains are either bold, or sparsely timbered with pine without undergrowth, it is not difficult to reach the top. Once on the summit of the ridge, as the whole country below will be in view, and as every stream or valley will lead to the foot of the mountain, there can be little difficulty in choosing the most favorable descent. That a road may be found over the Cascade mountains, near mount Jefferson, is made still more probable from the observations of Capt. Fremont, in the winter of 1843, while traveling up the river DeChutes (see his journal, p. 119), speaking of the Cascades, he says, "A small trail takes off through the prairie, towards a low point in the range, and perhaps there is here a pass into the Willamette valley." The same evening, he finds his camp to be in latitude, 45 deg. 2 min. 45 sec, and longitude, 125 deg. 2 min. 43 sec, being a due east course, and not exceeding 100 miles from the town of Salem. Taking into account the length of the valley of the Santiam, and the opposite branch of the river DeChutes, but a small part of this distance can be timber.
When we take into consideration the excellence of the mills at Salem, its literary Institution, the cheapness and abundance of provisions in its vicinity, and its central position in regard to the rest of the Territory, its advantages to the emigrant as the terminus of the road from the United States, must be obvious.
The failure of Dr. White's enterprise left the large emigration of 1 845, to find their way into the Willamette valley by the usual means; the supply of boats being wholly inadequate to their speedy conveyance down the Columbia and the stock of provisions failing at the Dalles, famine, and a malignant disease at the same time raging amongst them, a scene of human misery ensued which scarcely has a parallel in history—the loss of life and property was enormous.
​To the honor of the citizens of Oregon City and its vicinity, necessaries to the value of several hundred dollars were dispatched to their relief. To Mr. Cook, master of the Calapoia and the distributor of the above named benevolence, many indigent families have reason to be grateful.
The whole community were again aroused to the necessity of finding a remedy for an evil so distressing and calamitous. Two road companies were chartered by the Legislature, and a large amount raised by subscription, to encourage individual enterprise; and the year 1846 is not more an epoch to be remembered in the history of Oregon, for the quiet settlement of its boundary, than for the arrival of emigrants from the United States with their wagons, at both ends of the Willamette valley.
These improvements on the route, I propose examining in a future communication.
z.