# The Selkirk Mountains/Chapter 8

CHAPTER VIII.
THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA.
The coming of the Railway was the advent of mountaineering in the Canadian Alps. In 1888 there were no climbers in Canada who climbed for climbing's sake. There were, however, certain civil engineers and topographers who climbed laboriously and heroically, without Swiss guides and with scarcely any of the equipment now common among our climbers. Every mountain was a virgin peak and dangerous to men unskilled in snow-craft, ice-craft or rock-craft, who, nevertheless, carried transit and camera on their shoulders up the perilous cliffs while making topographical surveys for the Dominion Government. Notable among them was Mr. J. J. McArthur, who had charge of the Mountain Topography from 1886 to 1892. His name is associated with a beautiful blue lake 7,359 feet above sea, in the lap of Mt. Biddle near Lake O'Hara, and with a high mountain in the Gold Range. Mr. McArthur's achievements cover thrilling experiences. A gap would be filled in the annals of Canadian climbing if he would but write out the stories now hidden between the lines of his official records in Government Blue Books.
But all this so important climbing was work and not play. Climbing for pay and paying for climbing are not the same. "I climb because I must," says one; "I climb because I like it," says the other: each phrase an apologetic, supremely terse and unanswerable. And though mountaineering as a sport—now and always the sublimest of all sports—followed the railway, which ran hard by group after group of unknown attractive alpine peaks, Canadians were not of it. True, in 1883, occurred that picturesque incident on the summit of Rogers Pass, when a Canadian Alpine Club was organized with three members, a president, secretary and treasurer; one resolution was passed of thanks to the discoverer of the pass, another that its first activity should be the conquest of Mt. Sir Donald: and the Club's health then drunk in a sparkling streamlet at their feet. The officers were, in order. Sir Sandford Fleming, the late principal Grant and Mr. S. Hall Fleming. Though a bit of a frolic in the pause of the hardships of mountain travel without even a trail—and unless you know devil's club and the jungle mixed with its forests you know nothing of trailless travel in the Selkirks—the perspective of the years now shows that prophetic episode in a fine glamour.
The railway fairly in operation, news of virgin "ground in Canada, whose mountaineering potentialities appealed to the imagination of climbers eager for new peaks to conquer, reached the Alpine Club of England, the Swiss Alpine Club, and the Appalachian Club of Boston. And for years the Canadian mountains were exploited by climbers from other lands, though, owing to its nearness, the American climbers came oftenest and achieved most in actual climbing. Here and there a Canadian began to climb for love of it, but the new century was a half-decade old ere the full meaning of these mountains and of mountaineering gripped their minds and hearts. After a climb or an excursion revealing some new peaks and distant snowfields, there would be ardent talk about an alpine club. Mr. A. O. Wheeler whose whole heart was in the glaciers and peaks of the Selkirks, felt the reproach of it to Canadians. And so did one ​other who was wont to come to the mountains for inspiration and refreshment. Others, too, there were; but these two talked much about it, one of them putting the reproach into bold print on every possible occasion. Our American friends, who had meanwhile organized an American Alpine Club, were keen to have us organize a branch or an affiliated club. Canadian indifference being so apparent and our mountains being debtors to the American Club, Mr. Wheeler was minded to organize on that basis. It was pointed out to him that, once a movement was started in the interest of an independent Canadian mountaineering club. Canadians would wake up in the way John Bull wakes up if he is hardly and persistently shaken. And a circular was sent to certain University men and persons proper to the scheme, containing a number of questions, notably two: "Are you in favor of the Alpine Club?" "If so would you support a branch of the American Alpine Club, or an independent Canadian Club?" There was a common response. The C.P.R. Company gave passes from Vancouver to Halifax, and there gathered in Winnipeg on March 27, 1906, on the resolute, level plains a thousand miles from the field of operations, a company of enthusiasts. The charter members numbered 79, among them four from the American Alpine Club. The large and warm response was a rebuke to our accusation of Canadian apathy. But no doubt the appeal was maae at "the psychological moment"—when the young nation was beginning to feel its own potential strength; when the word. Canada, was becoming big with meaning; when the "Strathcona Horse" had strengthened the cords of Empire.
From the first, Mr. Wheeler's amazing energy and capacity for work have been manifest in the growth of the Club. To-day (1911) its membership is nearly 600. From the first, both English and American climbers were keenly interested, many of them joining the young club which took the dignified name, Alpine Club of Canada, and thus pre-empted a national appellation. From the first, again, it has been pre-eminently a club for making mountaineers, which differentiates it from the older conservative clubs whose qualifications for membership demand skill and experience in the sport. To show the objects and scope of the Club the constitution is appendid.
An outstanding feature of the A.C.C. is the annual meet in some strategic situation where graduating members may qualify for active membership and where observations may be made on the action of glaciers. It is, in short, a school for mountaineering, for mountain study, and for mountain photography and painting. Swiss guides are in attendance and experienced climbers give their services freely. The first meet was in 1906 on Yoho Pass when 100 members were in camp and when seven high mountains (one a virgin peak I were climbed by successive parties. 44 graduating to active membership. The experiment became an institution; and successful camps, one with an attendance of 175. have been held at Paradise Valley, Rogers Pass, Lake O'Hara. Consolation Valley and Sherbrooke Lake, with auxiliary camps at other climbing rendezvous.
These camps are the life and soul of the Club, and the campfire has been finely termed its altar and hearthstone. They last from one to two weeks, and in time no doubt they will last throughout
Around the Camp Fire
​tops, to high passes, to glaciers and distant valley; and every night brings to the giant fireside a weary but happy company, keen to hear some new adventure of the heights. Here, climbers from the Alps, the Caucasus, the Kuwenzori, the Himalaya and other mountain regions have told their tales to listening ears, giving both knowledge and inspiration. It is an unforgettable picture that of the camp-fire with its huge red coals glowing, its flames flapping and its myriad sparks flying upward in the velvet darkness, the guardian mountains standing round about, and the forests silent with the essential silence of windless night; and over all, the silent starry sky. The only sound in these remote nooks of the mountain wildernesses is the sound of human speech and song.
Every year sees mountaineers and travellers of ripe experience under canvas as members of the A.C.C. Dr. Longstaff, whose name is a household word in mountaineering circles the world over, has actively identified himself with the Canadian Club and has heartily given his services in this enterprise of making mountaineers of young Canadians.
Some tribute is due to the lady climbers, who have always "made good" on glacier and peak. The unfailing record is of pluck, endurance, and of those qualities that go to make successful mountaineers, Miss Canada is a "lady of the snows" indeed, and of mountain summits where blow the exulting gales.
The Club has its Club House at Banff, situated among the pines on the side of Sulphur Mountain, some 250 feet higher than the C.P.R. Hotel, where there is an unrivalled view of the Bow Valley and the surrounding mountains. The house is handsome and commodious with wide verandahs, and contains on the first floor, a large assembly room with French windows, offices, a cosy hall, kitchen, and large canvas-covered dining-room annexed; on the second floor, library, smoking-room, and apartments for those in charge. The sleeping accommodation is in tents furnished with all necessaries except bedding. The Club House is open from early June until late September, and the rates are $2.00 per day. Only members of the Club are accommodated. No doubt when Banff becomes a resort for winter sports and the membership warrants, the place will be enlarged and kept open during the year.
From the valley below, the Club House, with its red roof and white tents, shows picturesquely and conspicuously in the forest on the face of the mountain. It is on the high road to the Government Baths from where the wide pony-trail leads to the summit; and about three-quarters of a mile away is the Middle Sulphur Spring, still without a bath-house. There is plenty of good rockclimbing in Banff including some outstanding mountains, among them Mt. Aylmer (10.364 ft.), Mt. Cascade (9.625 feet), Mt. Rundle (9,665 ft.); and Mt. Edith (8,370 ft.) up the railway line. Altogether, the Club House and its beautiful situation, its spacious rooms and cosy fireplaces, is a pleasant place of rendezvous for the Club, and delightful evenings with story and song and dance are spent there by members coming from East and West, from the Old Country and the New.
The Alpine Club has given an immense impetus to mountaineering among Canadians, and it bids fair to become a national sport. ​This it ought to be, considering that Canada has the two factors necessary — and a third which is more than a tertium quid, even ample railway transit over the long distance from east to west. The two factors are mountains and men. Her alpine territory covers an enormous area; her people are made of the flesh-stuff and soul- stuff that go to the making of mountaineers. Leave Time and the Alpine Club alone, and the consummation, greatly and devoutly wish- ed by many will be accomplished. E. P.
CONSTITUTION
1. The name of the Club shall be "The Alpine Club of Canada."
OBJECTS
2. The objects of the Club are:
(a) The promotion of scientific study and exploration of Canadain alpine and glacial regions.
(b) The cultivation of art in relation to mountain scenery.
(c) The education of Canadians to appreciation of their mountain heritage.
(d) The encouragement oi the mountain craft and the opening of new regions as a national playground.
(e) The preservation of the natural beauties of the mountain places and of the fauna and flora in their habitat.
(f) The interchange of literature with other alpine and geographical organizations.
WORK OF THE CLUB
3. The work of the Club shall be:
(a) The exploration and study of Canada's alpine tracts: and, with this end in view, it shall gather through its members literary material and photographs for publication and dissemination, and such publications shall be placed on record with the Secretaries and Librarian and be distributed to the members of the Club and to corresponding organizations.
(b) The promotion of the study of glaciers and of glacial action in Canada, and of art and literature as applied to mountain regions, for which purposes glacial, art and literary sections shall be formed.
(c) The organization of a corps of reliable guides and outfitters who shall be available in connection with the work of the Club.
(d) The sphere of action of the Club shall not be confined to Canada alone, but may extend to all the high mountain ranges of the world, and one of the objects of this organization shall be to obtain information concerning other alpine regions and to come closely in touch with those who are interested in all such matters.
MEMBERSHIP
4. Membership shall be of five grades, viz.:
(a) Honorary Members. Those who have pre-eminently distinguished them-selves in mountaineering exploration or research and in the sacrifice of their own interests to the interests of the Club shall be eligible for Honorary membership. Honorary members shall be elected only by a two-thirds majority of the recorded votes of the Club.
(b) Active Members. Those who have made an ascent of a truly alpine, glacier-hung peak rising at least two thousand five hundred feet. (2.500 ft.) above the timber line of its region; their eligibility for election to be decided by the Executive Board.
Persons who are distinguished in literature, science or art relating to mountains, including alpine exploration or travel, shall be eligible for election to Active membership: their eligibility to be decided by the unanin)ous vote of the Exeiutive Board.
Except as hereinafter specified, .ctive members only shall be entitled to vote.
Active members may obtain life membership by the payment of fifty dollars, and shall thereafter be exempt from the payment of all dues.
(c) Associate Members. Those who are unable to qualify as .Active members, but owing to the objects of the Club, desire to affiliate therewith and lend a helping hand towards its maintenance.
Five O'clock in the Morning. Climbing Orders
A. C. C. Guide and Miss Canada
​ing qualification at the end of the second camp, their names shall be dropped from the roll of Graduating members. They shall have the option of becoming either Associate or Subscribing members.
(e) Subscribing Members. Those who are unable to take an active part in the outdoor work of the Club but desire to keep in touch with it by receiving its publications and exchanges.
EXPULSION OF MEMBERS
5. The Executive Board shall have power, by a unanimous vote of all its members to expel from the Club any member for such cause as shall in its opinion justify its action: provided that due notice of the charge has been sent to the member in question, to his or her last address known to the Club, and a reasonable opportunity of defence afforded and a formal statement of the case made to each member of the Board. Any member so expelled shall have the right of appeal to an Annual or General Meeting of the Club.
OFFICERS
6. (a) The officers of the Club shall be: A President, Vice-Presidents, an Hon. Secretary', an Hon. Treasurer, a Director, a Secretary-Treasurer and a Librarian, who shall be elected to office biennially.
(b) The President, Vice-Presidents, the Hon. Secretary and the Hon. Treasurer shall not hold office for more than two consecutive terms; the provision as to the last two officers to date from the election of officers held in 1910.
(c) Officers of the Club shall be elected from the Active membership, but if it be distinctly in the interests of the Club as determined by the Executive Board, they may be elected from any other grade except that of Graduating or Subscribing membership, and for their term of office shall be vested with the powers and privileges of Active membership. In such case, however, the election must be by a two-thirds majority of the recorded vote of the Club.
ADVISERS
7. (a) There shall be elected not less than three advisers. Their tenure of office shall be governed by subsections (a) and (b) of section 6, entitled "Officers."
(b) Advisers may be elected from any other grade, excepting that of Graduating or Subscribing membership, and for their term of office shall be vested with the powers and privileges of Active membership.
EXECUTIVE BOARD
8. The Executive Board shall be composed of the Officers. Advisers and not more than seven Chairmen of Local Committees. It shall have the general charge superintendence and control of the affairs, property and interests of the Club. It shall pass upon the eligibility of all proposed members and shall arrange and direct the working details and publications of the Club. The Executive Board shall have power to make by-laws for its own government, not inconsistent with this Constitution, which by-laws shall be submitted by the Board at the first Annual Meeting thereafter.
"Except in the case of Chairmen of Local Committees only residents of Canada shall be eligible for office upon the Executive Board."
DIRECTOR
9. (a) The Director shall be elected in a similar manner to other officers of the Executive Board, and shall be responsible to the said Board.
(b) He shall hold office continuously and shall only be removed therefrom by a vote at an Annual Meeting, or by resignation of his office.
(c) He shall assume the management of all business, property and other interests of the Club, and shall be responsible for such management to the Executive Board.
(d) He shall be furnished by the Executive Board with such staff as it may consider necessary to carry on the affairs of the Club, and for which the Club can provide salaries.
(e) His salary shall be fixed by the Executive Board.
(f) The Executive Board shall have power to suspend the Director from office for cause, but such action must be sustained by vote at annual Meeting. If not sustained it shall be inoperative as regards his salary during the term of suspension.
(g) In case of such suspension the Executive Board shall assume the duties of the Director, and shall make provision for their continuance in such manner as may be to the best interests of the Club.
LOCAL COMMITTEES
10. (a) Local Committees may be formed for any Country, Province or City, where, in the opinion of the Executive Board, there are sufficient members in touch with one another to make such a committee desirable.
(b) Local Committees shall consist of a Chairman, a Secretary, and not less than two. nor more than six. other members, who shall be elected annually at a meeting of the members in whose interest such committee is organized.
(c) Local Committees shall have the power to pass by-laws for their own governance.
(d) For the purpose of full representation, the Chairmen of not more than seven Local Committees may be elected to the Executive Board at the same time and in the same manner as other officers of the Club.
NOMINATION AND ELECTION OF MEMBERS
11. (a) Every nomination for membership must be made by not less than three members of the Club. Such nomination, with a statement of the qualifications of the proposed member, shall be submitted to the Executive Board, which shall pass upon the eligibility of the candidate. A ballot containing the names of such candidates as have been approved by the Executive Board, together with a statement of their qualifications and the names of their sponsors, shall be sent by the Secretary-Treasurer to each Active member. Such ballots as are returned to the Secretary-Treasurer within six weeks after they were sent out shall be canvassed by the Executive Board and the result declared in the minutes of the Ecard and in the next circular issued to members. Five adverse votes on an election shall disqualify for membership. This does not apply to Honorary members, who shall be elected by a two-thirds majority of the votes recorded.
(b) No candidate shall be eligible for election who has not attained the age of eighteen years.
NOMINATION AND ELECTION OF OFFICERS
12. (a) The election of officers shall take place at every alternate Annual Meeting. Two months before such meeting, the President shall appoint a Nominating Committee of five Active members. This Committee shall prepare a list of candidates for the ensuing term and report it to the Secretary-Treasurer.
(b) A ballot containing these nominations shall be mailed to each Active member at least six weeks before the date of election. .t the meeting appointed for the election, these ballots shall be cast and the result declared. In case of a failure to elect, the existing officers shall hold office until their successors are elected by special ballot cast for such purpose.
DUES
13. (a) Annual dues for Active membership shall be five dollars.
Annual dues for Associate members shall be twenty-five dollars.
Annual dues for Graduating members shall be two dollars and fifty cents.
Annual dues for Subscribing members shall be two dollars.
(b) Members in arrear for two years, to whom have been mailed the usual notice for dues and a final notice, shall forfeit membership but the Executive Board shall have power to reinstate such members at its discretion on payment of all arrears.
HEADQUARTERS
14. The Headquarters of the Club shall be at Banff, in the Rocky Mountains Park of Canada.
ANNUAL MEETING
15. An Annual Meeting of the Club for the election of officers and the transaction of other business shall be held at the Club's summer camp or, failing a summer camp, at the Club's headquarters during the months of July or August.
QUORUM
16. Seven Active members shall constitute a quorum of the Club for the general transaction of business, and three members of the Executive Board shall constitute a quorum of that Committee for the general transaction of business.
SUMMER CAMP
17. A summer camp in some suitable part of the mountain regions shall be organized in each year for the purpose of enabling Graduating members to qualify for Active membership, and the members generally to meet together for study and climbing in the alpine districts of Canada.
BADGE
18. The Badge of the Alpine Club of Canada may be bestowed for achievement in mountaineering or for distinction in literature, science or art relating to mountains, including alpine exploration or travel.
(a) To be eligible for the Badge it shall be necessary:
(1) To be a Member of the Club.
(2) For a Man.—To have climbed during at least four separate seasons in some recognized alpine region of the world, and to have made during each of the said seasons at least one climb qualifying for Active membership. The number of seasons and climbs required rests with the Executive Board.
(i) For a Woman.—To have climbed during at least three separate seasons in some recognized alpine region of the world, and to have made during each of the said seasons at least one climb qualifying for Active membership. The number of seasons and climbs required rests with the Executive Board.
(b) The Executive Board shall have power by a unanimous vote to bestow the badge upon members of the Club who are distinguished in literature, science or art relating to mountains, including alpine explorations or travel, without other qualification.
(c) All claims for the badge shall be referred to the Executive Board and the title to it shall be subject to acceptance of the said claims by the Board.
SPECIAL MEETINGS
19. Special meetings of the Club may be called by the President or by a Vice-President and the Hon. Secretary, acting under his authority. In such case due official notice shall be mailed to all members six weeks before such meeting, stating the purpose for which it is called.
LIBRARY
20. A library or libraries shall be established where the publications of the Club and books, maps, photographs and works of art relating to mountain scenery shall be gathered together and filed for the use of its members.
AMENDMENTS
21. (a) Amendments to the Constitution and By-Laws may be made at any regularly called meeting of the Club, provided that such amendment or amendments shall have the signatures of not less than five Active members of the Club and are acquiesced in by two-thirds of those recording their votes.
(b) All such amendments shall be mailed by the Secretary-Treasurer to the members, on printed ballots, six weeks in advance, together with the names of the five members proposing the change. Such ballots as have been returned to the Secretary-Treasurer shall be canvassed by a committee appointed by the President and the result declared at the meeting aforesaid.
A corner of the Club "House" giving a glimpse of the Bow Valley below and the mountains beyond