# A Voyage of Discovery and Research in the Southern and Antarctic Regions/Volume 1/Chapter 6

Mount Minto and Mount Adam. Page 185.
CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
1840.The remaining few days were spent in completing our preparations for sea; and adverse winds and weather continued to detain us at our anchorage until the morning of the twelfth, on which day we weighed at daylight, and stood down the river under favourable circumstances. Sir John Franklin and some other friends came on board to accompany us as far as the mouth of the river, and the government tender followed.
Soon after noon we passed the lighthouse on the east point of the entrance of the river, and being fairly out to sea by 1.30 p.m., our warm-hearted friends took leave of us, giving us three cheers at parting, which were most cordially returned from our ships, as we stood out of Storm Bay. If the deep-felt gratitude of thankful hearts be any gratification to our excellent friend Sir John Franklin, who not only evinced the most anxious desire, but sought every opportunity of promoting the objects of our enterprise, and contributing to the comfort and happiness of all embarked in it. I am sure there is not an individual in either of our ships who would not most heartily wish to express those sentiments towards him, and also to every member of his family, for their great kindness to us during our prolonged stay at Hobart-town.
​The evening was squally, with rain; but the wind still so favoured us, that we cleared the land before dark, and shaped our course for Auckland Island—distant between eight and nine hundred miles from Hobart Town.
Nov. 13.The favouring breeze continued, and we carried all sail, the Terror keeping company with difficulty. Several beds of sea-weed were passed; and the albatross as well as several other kinds of petrel were seen in considerable numbers. The cloudy weather that prevailed during the nights, pointed out in my instructions for observing "falling stars," prevented our witnessing any of those remarkable exhibitions of almost regular periodical occurrence.
14.Being nearly calm at 9 a.m., we tried for soundings with six hundred fathoms of line, without success, and obtained the temperature at various depths: that of the surface being 51°; at 150 fathoms 49°.8; at 300 fathoms 48°; at 450 fathoms 46°.5, and at 600 fathoms 45°.6: the indices of the thermometer having been set to 51°, showed, on each occasion, they had passed through a stratum of water at the higher temperature of 52°.5, and certainly at a less depth than 100 fathoms; but a strong breeze arising from the eastward, prevented our ascertaining its depth and breadth with accuracy.
15.At noon we were in latitude 45°.33′ south, and longitude 152°.45′ east, and found we had been set by a current thirty miles S. 60° E., in two days: the wind after noon veered to the southward, and ​between 11 p.m. and midnight, we observed some faint coruscations of Aurora Australis; but no "falling stars" were seen, although carefully looked for throughout this remarkably clear night.
During this, as well as the following three days, Nov. 16.we observed much sea-weed, although four hundred miles from any land; numerous luminous patches in the water were also passed. At eight o'clock in the evening of the nineteenth, being within twenty miles 19.of the land, and blowing a strong westerly gale, we rounded to on the port tack to wait for daylight, and tried for soundings occasionally throughout the night with from 140 to 200 fathoms, but without striking ground.
At 3.30 a.m. we bore away to the south-east, and 20.soon afterwards North-west Cape was seen directly a-head of us; a thick fog almost immediately again concealed it from our view, so that had we not fortunately got sight of it just at the time we did we should have had no other opportunity of making the land during the whole day. The wind increased to a strong gale, attended with fog and rain, and kept us in some anxiety, until the cape again appeared through the haze at less than a mile from us, and we were enabled to run along the northern side of the island under its protection. The north-west cape is a very remarkable headland, with a rocky islet and a curious conical rock off it; just to the eastward of it is a dark-looking promontory, called Black Head, with a deep cavernous indentation at its base: this we ​afterwards found to be only a short distance from the westernmost part of Laurie Harbour; it was reached by Mr. McCormick and some other officers, by following the course of the stream that empties its waters into the head of the harbour, and whose source is in the hills above Black Head: these hills are from eight to nine hundred feet high.
Bristow Rock, which is reported to lie between eight and nine miles due north from Enderby Island, and level with the water's edge, we did not see, but is a danger to be carefully avoided by ships approaching the northern harbour. I may also mention that there is a narrow entrance to the harbour between the west end of Enderby Island and Rose's Island, which is only a channel fit for boats. The sea was breaking right across the opening when we passed it; but in calm weather it might be mistaken by strangers as a safe passage.
On rounding the N.E. cape of Enderby Island, we passed through some strong whirlpools, occasioned by the meeting of the tides off this point; and although we did not find soundings with our ordinary hand lines, it is by no means improbable that some shoals or rocky patches may have some influence in producing these strong and dangerous eddies.
As we opened the harbour, the squalls came down from the western hills with much violence, threatening to blow us out to sea again; and it required the utmost vigilance and activity of the officers and crew in beating up, at times, to maintain the ground we had gained. There is, however, ​ample space, and no concealed dangers, the belts of sea-weed, Macrocystus and Laminaria, which line the shores and rocks, point out the shallow or dangerous parts. After five hours of hard contending with the fierce westerly squalls, we anchored at 1 p.m. in a small cove on the western shore, in ten fathoms.
Two painted boards, erected upon poles in a conspicuous spot, attracted our attention, and an officer was immediately sent to examine them. They proved to be records of the visits of the French expedition under D'Urville, and of one of the vessels of the American exploring expedition. The first, a white board with black letters, as follows:—"Les corvettes Françoises L'Astrolabe et la Zélée, parties de Hobart Town le 25 Fevrier, 1840, mouillées ici le 11 Mars, et réparties le 20 du dit pour la New Zeland. Du 19 Janvier au 1 Février, 1840, découverte de la Terre Adélie et détermination du pôle magnétique Austral!"
The second, a black board with white letters, stated,—"U.S. brig Porpoise, 73 days out from Sydney, New Holland, on her return from an exploring cruize along the antarctic circle, all well; arrived the 7th, and sailed again on the 10th March, for the Bay of Islands, New Zealand."
A paper was also found inclosed in a bottle, which had been so imperfectly corked that some water had got into and so obliterated some parts of the writing, that we had difficulty in deciphering it. Its purport was, that the Porpoise had touched here for ​water, and that during their cruize they had coasted along the Icy Barrier, and had touched here for water. We were all much surprised that no mention was made of the "Antarctic Continent" discovered by Lieutenant Wilkes, but supposed that secrecy had been enforced upon him, as to any discoveries he might make, or that having parted from the Vincennes, his track had been more northerly, and therefore less fortunate than his commodore. I have reason now to believe the latter to be the more correct conjecture.
By the side of a small stream of water, and on the only cleared spot we could find, the ruins of a small hut was discovered, which I have since learnt formed for several years the wretched habitation of a deserter from an English whale ship and a New Zealand woman.
The ships being securely moored in a well-sheltered anchorage, on the west side of the harbour, the observatories were landed, and all hands employed clearing away the trees and digging for a foundation; the upper surface was a complete mass of peat bog, and the deeper we dug down the softer it became, so that we had great difficulty and labour in making a foundation sufficiently firm for our purpose: this was, however, accomplished by filling the deep holes with large blocks of stone, and after they had settled, placing casks filled with sand upon them; the instruments being then secured upon the casks. The term-day was so nigh at hand, we had not time to seek for a more suitable place, and we now felt the great advantage of ​being able to form three small houses of the materials of the second observatory; for there was not sufficient level space to have put it up as one house.
By the twenty-fifth the instruments were all fixed Nov. 25. and adjusted, and we had the satisfaction of finding, during three days' preliminary observations, that the foundation remained perfectly steady, and the results were most satisfactory.
The term-day observations were made on the twenty-eighth, and afforded, as we afterwards found, a most interesting comparison with those made at the Rossbank observatory, Van Diemen's Land, showing the same instantaneous movements of the instruments as occur in the northern regions; and thus our principal purpose of coming here was fulfilled to our wishes.
Hourly and additional observations agreed upon before we sailed from Hobart Town were continued until we had obtained seven days of uninterrupted results, when we considered the magnetometric operations complete: the absolute determinations were next to be attended to; but in these we found very considerable difficulty. The place proved to be a most remarkable corroboration of what I have already said respecting the uncertainty and inaccuracy of magnetic observations made on land. In our course from Van Diemen's Land we found a gradual increase of dip, in exact proportion to the distance we sailed during each day towards these islands, from which we could determine with very great accuracy the amount of dip due to their ​geographical position; but the first observations we obtained here gave us too small a dip by more than two degrees. The cause I of course immediately attributed to local attraction, and directed observations to be made at several different stations. At a position only thirty yards distant from the first station the dip, with the same instrument, was found to be nine degrees less, and therefore eleven degrees in error. The rocks at this point had a peculiar ferruginous appearance, and on presenting some of them to a delicate compass they turned it round and round as swiftly as the hand could move; and moreover were found to possess a powerful degree of polarity, the north and south pole of the fragments depending entirely upon the direction in which they were found lying with reference to the magnetic meridian. They were not however loose stones, as those of a beach, but taken from the laminated rocks of which the land consists, so that we may esteem the whole mass to be one great magnet. Mr. Smith, whom I entrusted with this service, made many observations on various parts of the harbour, all of which are recorded, and will prove an useful lesson to magnetic observers. At the point where we had placed the magnetometers we found the dip accordant with our computations; but this was purely accidental. The dip obtained from observations on board the Erebus, sufficiently removed from the pernicious influence of the land, was that upon which we were obliged to depend, and was ​probably very near the truth; and the variation at these two places also accorded very nearly. The observations on board the Terror were vitiated by her proximity to Shoe Island, so much so as to mask the local attraction of the iron of the ship, and to render useless their observations to determine its amount, when they swung the vessel for that purpose. Numerous specimens of the rocks from other parts of the island were brought to me by Mr. McCormick, proving how extensively this magnetic power was distributed over it. It is not at all improbable that considerable effects might be produced upon this magnetic island by the action of the sun upon a surface so constituted, and therefore even differential observations cannot be depended fully upon under a frequent change of clear or cloudy weather, or great differences of temperature of the land, whether occasioned by the absorption or radiation of heat.
Auckland Islands were discovered by Abraham Bristow, commander of the ship Ocean, a southern whaler belonging to Messrs. Enderby, on the 18th of August, 1806, during a third voyage round the world, and is recorded in the log-book, from which, by the kindness of C. Enderby, Esq., of Greenwich, I am permitted to make the following extract:—"Moderate and clear: at daylight saw land, bearing west by compass, extending round to the north as far as N.E. by N., distant from the nearest part about nine leagues. This island or islands, as being the first discoverer, I shall call Lord ​Auckland's (my friend through my father), and is situated according to my observation at noon in lat, 50° 48′ S., and long. 166° 42″ E., by a distance of the sun and moon, I had at half-past 10 a.m. The land is of a moderate height, and from its appearance I have no doubt but it will afford a good harbour in the north end, and I should suppose lies in about the latitude of 50° 21′ S., and its greatest extent is in a N.W. and S.E. direction. This place I should suppose abounds with seals, and sorry I am that the time and the lumbered state of my ship do not allow me to examine."
Captain Bristow again visited these islands in 1807, in the ship Sarah, also belonging to Messrs. Enderby: he then took formal possession of them and landed some pigs, which have increased in numbers in a surprising manner.
I have not been able to refer to the log-book of the Sarah: but the names on the annexed survey are taken from a plan of the Island published by the Admiralty in 1823, from information derived from Captain Bristow.
The group consists of one large and several smaller islands, separated by narrow channels. The largest island is about thirty miles long, and its extreme breadth is about fifteen miles. It contains two principal harbours, whose entrances are both from the eastward, and whose heads or terminations reach within two or three miles of the western coast, and only five or six miles from each other. Rendez-vous Harbour, which is at the north extreme of the island, contains several secure ​anchorages. The outermost of these, though convenient for stopping at a short time only, is a small sandy bay on the south side of Enderby Island, and about a mile and a half from its N.E. cape. It is well protected from all winds except those from the south-eastward, and the holding ground a good tenacious clay. It is probable that there may be found good anchorage also to the west of Enderby Island. After passing Ocean and Rose's Islands, a ship may anchor in perfect safety in any part, but the most convenient will be found to be between those islands and Erebus Cove, where abundance of wood and water may be obtained, as also at Terror Cove. The upper end of the inlet, called Laurie Harbour, is the most suitable for ships wanting to heave down or to undergo any extensive repair. It is perfectly land-locked, and the steep beach on the southern shore affords the greatest facility for clearing and re-loading the vessel.
I was so struck with the many advantages this place possesses for a penal settlement, over every other I had heard named, to which to remove convicts from the now free colonies of New South Wales, New Zealand, and Van Diemen's Land, that I addressed a letter on the subject to Sir John Franklin on my return to Hobart Town, recommending its adoption. This letter was forwarded to the Secretary of State for the Colonies; but I believe Chatham Island, as being seated in a milder climate, has been preferred, although I am not aware of any other advantages it possesses; whilst the want of ​good harbours will be found a great drawback, and the two tribes of New Zealanders from Port Nicholson, who took possession of it in 1835, after eating the half of the aborigines they found there, and making slaves of the other half, will prove a difficult people to dispossess of the land they have gained by conquest.
The southern harbour of Auckland Island is said to be capacious, but the water too deep over the greater part of it for anchoring: there are several coves on either side of it, where good anchorage may be found, and well protected; but as we did not visit that inlet, I cannot answer for the accuracy of these statements, which I received from masters of whalers. Laurie Harbour is well calculated for the location of an establishment for the prosecution of the whale fishery: many black and several sperm whales came into the harbour whilst we were there; and from such a situation the fishery might be pursued with very great advantage. I am rejoiced to hear that the enterprising merchant, Charles Enderby, Esq., is making application to the government for a grant of the Islands for that purpose, and from the circumstance of their having been discovered by the commander of one of his ships, he may with some justice claim to be entitled to greater privileges than others.
ABSTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL OF HER MAJESTY'S SHIP EREBUS.—November, 1840.
| Day. | Mean Temperature of the | Mean Temperature of the | Mean Temperature of the | Mean (corrected) barometer. | Winds | Winds | Winds | Winds | Winds | Winds | Weather. | Weather. | Remarks. | Remarks. |
| Day. | Air in shade. | Sea at surface. | Dew point. | Mean (corrected) barometer. | Direction. | Direction. | Direction. | Force. | Force. | Force. | | | Weather. | Weather. | Remarks. | Remarks. |
| | º | º | º | Inches. | | | | | | | | |
| 1 | 57.0 | 54.5 | 47 | 30.139 | | N.W. | | | 2 | | | 5 b. c.† | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland off Hobart Town. W.L. Lat 42º 52′ S. |
| 2 | 59.0 | 55.0 | 50 | 072 | | W.N.W. | | | 1 | | | 4 b. c. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland off Hobart Town. W.L. Lat 42º 52′ S. |
| 3 | 57.1 | 56.0 | 51 | 005 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. N.W. p.m. East | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | 2 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 4 b. c. p.m. 2 b. c. d. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland off Hobart Town. W.L. Lat 42º 52′ S. |
| 4 | 54.8 | 55.9 | 45 | 103 | | S.E. | | | 1 | | | 7 b. c. v. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland off Hobart Town. W.L. Lat 42º 52′ S. |
| 5 | 54.0 | 55.4 | 45 | 019 | | Westerly | | | 2 | | | 5 b. c. v. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland off Hobart Town. W.L. Lat 42º 52′ S. |
| 6 | 55.6 | 57.3 | 45 | 102 | | Easterly | | | 1 | | | 7 b. c. v. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland off Hobart Town. W.L. Lat 42º 52′ S. |
| 7 | 51.3 | 53.6 | 42 | 29.985 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. N.W. p.m. S.E. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | 1 | | | 7 b. c. v. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland off Hobart Town. W.L. Lat 42º 52′ S. |
| 8 | 57.4 | 57.7 | 52 | 728 | | S.E. | | | 1 | | | 4 b. c. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland off Hobart Town. W.L. Lat 42º 52′ S. |
| 9 | 53.1 | 58.0 | 53 | 699 | | S.E. | | | 1 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 3 b. c. p. r. p.m. 0 g. p. r. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland off Hobart Town. W.L. Lat 42º 52′ S. |
| 10 | 48.8 | 56.0 | *49 | 582 | | Southerly | | | 1 | | | 0 g. r. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland off Hobart Town. W.L. Lat 42º 52′ S. |
| 11 | 45.6 | 53.8 | *43 | 630 | | S.W. | | | 2 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 0 q. r. p.m. 3 b. c. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland off Hobart Town. W.L. Lat 42º 52′ S. |
| 12 | 49.3 | 54.3 | *50 | 879 | | S.W. | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 1 p.m. 4 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | 2 b. c. g. p. r. |
| 13 | 52.7 | 52.8 | *53 | 755 | | Westerly | | | 5 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. g. r. p.m. 3 b. c. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | At sea. |
| 14 | 46.8 | 49.7 | *47 | 608 | | Easterly | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 1 p.m. 4 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | 0 d. r. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | At sea. |
| 15 | 49.4 | 48.9 | 47 | 705 | | Southerly | | | 2 | | | 3 b. c. g. d. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | At sea. |
| 16 | 50.6 | 49.2 | 48 | 941 | | Westerly | | | 3 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 6 b. c. v. p.m. 2 b. c. g. p. r. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | At sea. |
| 17 | 51.2 | 47.4 | 50 | 462 | | N.W. | | | 4 | | | 0 m. f. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | At sea. |
| 18 | 46.0 | 44.4 | 48 | 233 | | S.W. | | | 5 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 1 b. c. g. p. r. p.m. 3 b. c. q. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | At sea. |
| 19 | 46.4 | 44.2 | 46 | 329 | | W.N.W. | | | 5 | | | 2 b. c. g. q. p. r. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | At sea. |
| 20 | 44.6 | 42.7 | 43 | 332 | | W. by S. | | | 5 | | | 3 b. c. p. q. r. |
| 21 | 47.0 | 45.5 | *47 | 468 | | W.N.W. | | | 4 | | | 0 q. r. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Island. Lat 50º 32′ S. |
| 22 | 47.1 | 45.0 | 44 | 305 | | West | | | 6 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 0 g. q. r. p.m. 4 b. c. q. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Island. Lat 50º 32′ S. |
| 23 | 46.2 | 44.2 | 48 | 553 | | W.N.W. | | | 3 | | | 3 b. c. m. q. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Island. Lat 50º 32′ S. |
| 24 | 42.4 | 42.7 | 45 | 232 | | Westerly | | | 3 | | | 3 b. c. q. r. s. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Island. Lat 50º 32′ S. |
| 25 | 40.0 | 40.1 | *40 | 051 | | N.S.W. | | | 3 | | | 3 b. c. q. r. s. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Island. Lat 50º 32′ S. |
| 26 | 40.1 | 39.4 | 36 | 284 | | S.S.W. | | | 2 | | | 3 b. c. q. r. s. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Island. Lat 50º 32′ S. |
| 27 | 42.4 | 42.4 | *40 | 562 | | Westerly | | | 1 | | | 0 g. r. d. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Island. Lat 50º 32′ S. |
| 28 | 46.8 | 44.5 | *48 | 481 | | W. by S. | | | 2 | | | 0 g. r. m. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Island. Lat 50º 32′ S. |
| 29 | 47.8 | 45.6 | 40 | 535 | | Westerly | | | 2 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 1 b. c. m. p.m. 2 b. c. g. d. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Island. Lat 50º 32′ S. |
| 30 | 46.4 | 45.2 | 45 | 639 | | N.S.W. | | | 2 | | | 4 b. c. p. b. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Island. Lat 50º 32′ S. |
| | 49.23 | 49.38 | 46.2 | 29.6472 | | | | 2.57 | 2.57 | 2.57 | | |
* Rain falling. † For the key to these symbols, see Appendix.
ABSTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL OF HER MAJESTY'S SHIP EREBUS.—December, 1840.
| Day. | Mean Temperature of the | Mean Temperature of the | Mean Temperature of the | Mean (corrected) barometer. | Winds | Winds | Winds | Winds | Winds | Weather. | Weather. | Weather. | Remarks. | Remarks. |
| Day. | Air in shade. | Sea at surface. | Dew point. | Mean (corrected) barometer. | Direction. | Direction. | Force. | Force. | Force. | | | Weather. | Weather. | Weather. | Remarks. | Remarks. |
| | ° | ° | ° | Inches. | | | | | | | | |
| 1 | 43.2 | 42.0 | 38 | 29.899 | | S.W. | | 2 | | | 2 b. c. g,† | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Islands— Lat 50° 32′ S. |
| 2 | 45.4 | 43.7 | 37 | 865 | | Westerly | | 1 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 3 b. c. p.m. 0 g. p. r. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Islands— Lat 50° 32′ S. |
| 3 | 44.9 | 44.3 | 39 | 757 | | S. Westerly | | 3 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 2 b. c. g. p.m. 0 g. q. p. r. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Islands— Lat 50° 32′ S. |
| 4 | 45.1 | 43.9 | 46 | 698 | | S. Westerly | | 5 | | | 4 b. c. q. g. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Islands— Lat 50° 32′ S. |
| 5 | 47.1 | 45.2 | 45 | 941 | | W.S.W. | | 3 | | | 4 b. c. g. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Islands— Lat 50° 32′ S. |
| 6 | 47.2 | 46.1 | 39 | 955 | | S.W. | | 3 | | | 5 b. c. q. d. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Islands— Lat 50° 32′ S. |
| 7 | 47.9 | 46.0 | 40 | 738 | | W. by S. | | 3 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 3 b. c. o. g. p.m. 0 q. r. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Islands— Lat 50° 32′ S. |
| 8 | 47.9 | 46.2 | 45 | 628 | | S. Westerly | | 2 | | | 0 m. p. r. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Islands— Lat 50° 32′ S. |
| 9 | 50.1 | 48.4 | *51 | 453 | | W.N.W. | | 3 | | | 0 g. m. r. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Islands— Lat 50° 32′ S. |
| 10 | 47.5 | 47.1 | *50 | 240 | | S. Easterly | | 1 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 0 g. m. r. p.m. 0 g. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Islands— Lat 50° 32′ S. |
| 11 | 46.7 | 45.7 | 48 | 542 | | W.S.W. | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 2 p.m. 4 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | 2 b. c. q. r. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Auckland Islands— Lat 50° 32′ S. |
| 12 | 48.8 | 46.6 | 49 | 829 | | N. Westerly | | 4 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 3 b. c. g. p.m. 1 b. c. f. r. | |
| 13 | 48.8 | 46.4 | 47 | 830 | | W.N.W. | | 2 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 5 b. c. q. p.m. 2 b. c. f. d. | |
| 14 | 48.5 | 47.0 | *49 | 653 | | W.N.W. | | 2 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 0 q. f. r. p.m. 0 f. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Campbell's Is. Lat. 52° 33′ S. |
| 15 | 46.7 | 45.2 | 42 | 649 | | S.W. by W. | | 2 | | | 4 b. c. g. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Campbell's Is. Lat. 52° 33′ S. |
| 16 | 44.3 | 42.6 | 38 | 962 | | W.S.W. | | 2 | | | 4 b. c. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | Campbell's Is. Lat. 52° 33′ S. |
| 17 | 46.7 | 45.2 | *48 | 838 | | Westerly | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 3 p.m. 6 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | 0 q. d. r. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 52.44 |
| 18 | 42.4 | 40.6 | 40 | 756 | | S.W. | | 5 | | | 3 b. c. g. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 54.21 |
| 19 | 41.4 | 39.7 | 42 | 417 | | Westerly | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 5 p.m. 3 | | | 0 g. q. 0 m. r. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 55.56 |
| 20 | 39.0 | 37.3 | 38 | 179 | | S.W. by W. | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 8 p.m. 6 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | 2 b. c. q. p. r. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 56.44 |
| 21 | 39.0 | 36.4 | 36 | 300 | | W.S.W. | | 4 | | | 2 b. c. p. d. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 57.47 |
| 22 | 37.4 | 34.3 | 30 | 133 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. S.W. p.m. Nthly. | | 3 2 | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | | 0 g. f. p. d. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 59.0 |
| 23 | 36.1 | 34.9 | *35 | 28.996 | | S. Easterly | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 2 p.m. 4 | | | 1 b. c. p. s. 3 b. c. g. p. s. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 59.41 |
| 24 | 35.7 | 33.4 | 32 | 29.435 | | S.W. | | 3 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 3 b. c. p. s. p.m. 5 . b. c. v. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 60.32 |
| 25 | 36.2 | 33.4 | *35 | 029 | | N.N.W. | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 5 p.m. 6 | | | 0 g. r. s. 0 m. r. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 62.10 |
| 26 | 36.8 | 34.3 | 38 | 667 | | W. by N. | | 5 | | | 0 m. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 62.3 |
| 27 | 31.9 | 29.5 | 28 | 784 | | S.W. | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 5 p.m. 8 | | | 1 b. c. q. p. s. 3 b. c. q. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 62.43 |
| 28 | 31.3 | 29.5 | 29 | 28.934 | | Easterly | | 3 | | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 1 b. c. o. p. s. p.m. 0 p. s. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 62.40 |
| 29 | 30.2 | 29.1 | 24 | 29.119 | | S. Easterly | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 4 p.m. 2 | | | 0 g. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 64.6 |
| 30 | 32.2 | 30.8 | 32 | 28.991 | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. N. p.m. Wstly | | 2 | | | 1 b. c. o. p. s. | | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 64.32 |
| 31 | 30 | 29.8 | 29 | 826 | | E.S.E. | $\scriptstyle {\left\{{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right.}$ | a.m. 4 p.m. 2 | | | 2 b. c. p. s. 5 b. c. p. | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | $\scriptstyle {\left.{\begin{matrix}\ \\\\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\ \ \end{matrix}}\right\}\,$ | 66.0 |
| | 41.83 | 40.15 | 39.3 | 29.5175 | | | 3.29 | 3.29 | 3.29 | | | | | |
* Rain falling. † For the key to these symbols, see Appendix.
° ​found a very great difference in the temperature, amounting to about ten degrees of the thermometer, but still greater to our feelings, owing to the increased humidity of the atmosphere, the temperature of the dew point being nearly the same in both places notwithstanding so great a difference of temperature. Abstracts of the Meteorological Journal of the Erebus for November and December are annexed, to show the differences of climate of Auckland and Campbell Islands, from that of Van Diemen's Land. The temperature cannot be considered severe, when we remember that in England, which is very nearly in the same latitude, the mean temperature for April, the corresponding month, is 46°. Our stay was too short to justify any further remarks on the climate of these islands; but a series of well conducted observations, continued for two or three years, could not fail to prove highly interesting and important to the advancement of meteorological science.
Mr. McCormick, who remarks that the formation of these, as well as Campbell Islands, is volcanic, and constituted chiefly of basalt and green-stone, especially calls attention to "Deas' Head," a promontory of Auckland Island, as being of great geological interest, exhibiting fine columns, three hundred feet high, which are highly magnetic. The loftiest hill, Mount Eden, to the S.W. of our anchorage, attains an elevation of thirteen hundred feet, is rounded at the top, and clothed with grass ​to its summit. Another hill in the west rises to nearly one thousand feet.
The following observations on the vegetable productions are by Dr. Hooker:—
"Perhaps no place in the course of our projected voyage in the southern ocean promised more novelty to the botanist than Auckland Islands. Situated in the midst of a boisterous ocean, in a very high latitude for that hemisphere, and far removed from any tract of land but the islands of New Zealand, it proved, as was expected, to contain, amongst many new species, some of peculiar interest, as being antarctic forms of genera otherwise confined to the last-mentioned group.
"Possessing no mountains rising to the limits of perpetual snow, and few rocks or precipices, the whole land seemed covered with vegetation. A low forest skirts all the shores, succeeded by a broad belt of brushwood, above which, to the summits of the hills, extend grassy slopes. On a closer inspection of the forest, it is found to be composed of a dense thicket of stag-headed trees, so gnarled and stunted by the violence of the gales, as to afford an excellent shelter for a luxuriant under-growth of bright green feathery ferns, and several gay-flowered herbs. With much to delight the eye, and an extraordinary amount of new species to occupy the mind, there is here a want of any of those trees or shrubs to which the voyager has been accustomed in the north; and one cannot help feeling, how much a greater pleasure it would ​be to find new kinds of the pine, the birch, willow, or the oak, than those remarkable trees which have no allies in the northern hemisphere, and the mention of which, suggesting no familiar form to compare them with at home, can interest few but the professed botanist.
"The woods consist entirely of four or five species of trees, or large shrubs, which are here enumerated in the order of their relative abundance. 1. A short and thick-trunked tree (Metrosideros lucida), which branches at top into a broad crown; this is more nearly allied to the classical myrtle than to any other European plant. 2. Dracophyllum longifolium, (Fl. Antarct. Tab. xxxi. and xxxii.), a black-barked tree, with slender erect branches, bearing grassy leaves at the ends of the twigs. 3. Panax simplex, a tree allied to the ivy. 4. Veronica elliptica, this is the V. decussata of our gardens, a Tierra del Fuego plant, but which was originally detected in New Zealand, during Cook's second voyage. 5. A species of Coprosma (C. fœtidissima, Tab. xiii.), whose leaves emit when bruised, and especially in drying, an intolerably fœtid odour. Under the shade of these, near the sea beach, about fifteen different Ferns grow in great abundance, the most remarkable of which is a species of Aspidium (A. venustum, of the French South Polar Voyage), with short trunks ​2–3 feet high, crowned with a tuft of spreading feathery fronds, each 3–5 feet long: this is one of the most graceful and ornamental productions of the group. The Aralia polaris, Homb. and Jacq., and the Pleurophyllum criniferum (Tab. xxiv. and xxv.), are two highly remarkable plants, very common near the sea; the former is allied to the ivy, but has clusters of green waxy flowers as large as a child's head; and its round and wrinkled leaves, of the deepest green, measure a foot and a half across. They form the favourite food of the hogs which run wild on these islands.
"It is upon the hills, however, that the more beautiful plants' abound; amongst which the most striking is a liliaceous one, allied to Anthericum (Chrysobactron Rossii, Tab. xliv. and xlv.), whose conspicuous racemes of golden flowers are often a span long, and many specimens have three or four such spikes. The Pleurophyllum speciosum (Tab. xxii. and xxiii.), resembles a large Aster, bearing numerous purple flowers, the size of a large marigold. The Celmisia vernicosa (Tab. xxxi. and xxxii.), has linear glossy leaves, spread out on the ground like the spokes of a wheel, and pure white flowers, with a purple eye, as large as those of the last-named plant. Finally, the Veronica Benthamii (Tab. xxxix. and xl.), may be mentioned; it is of shrubby growth, with spikes of flowers of a deep ultramarine blue. Amongst those of humbler stature, ​several European genera occur, as species of Cardamine, Ranunculus, Plantain, Geranium, and Epilobium, two beautiful white and red-flowered Gentians (Tab. xxxv. and xxxvi.), and a Forget-me-not (Tab. xxxvii.), with flowers much larger than those of any English species.
"The vegetation is characterised by a luxuriance of these fine species, and the absence of such weeds as grasses and sedges, &c. Eighty flowering plants were found, a small number, but consisting of species more remarkable for their beauty and novelty than the flora of any other country can show, no less than fifty-six being hitherto undescribed, and one half of the whole peculiar to this group, or Campbell Island, as far as is at present known.
"The ships of Captain Vancouver's expedition touched at the southern extremity of New Zealand, from whence the naturalist attached to that voyage, the late venerable Mr. Menzies, brought a richer store of cryptogamic plants than had ever before reached Europe. Nor did Lord Auckland's group prove less productive, having afforded no less than upwards of two hundred species of mosses, lichens, Hepaticæ, and sea-weeds, &c.; of which a very large proportion are new to science.
"A few botanical remarks on the flora of this group are best incorporated with those on the vegetation of the island next visited. It may here be remarked, however, that probably nearly all of the native plants were collected; that the vegetation is characteristic of New Zealand, but contains ​many new forms typical of the antarctic regions. The proportion which the smaller division of flowering plants (Monocotyledones) bears to the greater (Dicotyledones), is very large, being as 1 to 2.2; in either hemisphere this division increases on attaining a high latitude; but that of Melville Island must be reached in the north, to meet with a similar ratio. It is worthy of notice that this large proportion does not depend on an increased number of grasses, which form a smaller item in this flora than they do in that of the Falklands or of Melville Island; but is due to the number of Cyperaceæ and Orchideæ, both of which equal the grasses; and probably also to the small amount of Compositæ amongst the Dicotyledones."
Respecting the zoology of these islands, Mr. McCormick observes:—"There is no species of land animal, with the exception of the domestic pig, introduced several years ago, and now in a wild state. The birds are all New Zealand species, from which country these islands have unquestionably been colonised by the feathered tribe. Of land birds there are not more than seven or eight species, and of these the beautiful "Tooe" bird of New Zealand, and a small olive-green species allied to Meliphagidæ, are the chief choristers of the woods, which are in many places almost impenetrable, the trees and underwood forming dense thickets. The water birds consist of a New Zealand species of duck (teal), a mergus (Merganser), a species of phalarocrocorax, ​(cormorant), a snipe, a penguin, and two kinds of gull, the black-backed, and small ash-backed, frequenting the bays in great abundance. The albatross (Diomedea exulans) was breeding in considerable numbers on the tops of the cliffs to the northwestward of the harbour. Their nest is formed, upon a small mound of earth, of withered grass and leaves matted together, above six feet in circumference at the base, and about eighteen inches in height; it is the joint labour of the male and female birds. Like most of the petrel tribe, the albatross lays only one egg, of a pure white, varying in weight from fifteen to twenty-one ounces. In one instance only, out of above one hundred nests that were examined, were two eggs found in the same nest.
"Its greatest enemy is a fierce raptorial gull, very strongly resembling the Skua gull, both in its predatory habits and general aspect, and is probably an undescribed species.
"Several kinds of petrel were breeding in holes underground, and on the sides of the cliffs bounding the bays; a solitary ring-plover was seen, but no specimen was obtained."
Of insects we observed a great variety, and a large collection was made. The sand-flies were very troublesome during the heat of the day, and their stings painful.
The party employed cutting fire-wood found a cat's nest with two kittens in it, still blind: they were of course destroyed, but the old cat escaped. ​The pigs that were left on the island by Captain Bristow have become very numerous. Their food consists of the Arabia polaris, "one of the most beautiful and singular of the vegetable productions of the island it inhabits, growing in large orbicular masses on rocks and banks near the sea, or amongst the dense and gloomy vegetation of the woods; its copious bright green foliage, and large umbels of waxy flowers, have a most striking appearance. The whole plant has a heavy and rather disagreeable rank smell, common to many of its natural order. But it is, nevertheless, greedily eaten by goats, pigs, and rabbits." And more especially the Pleurophyllum criniferum, a very common and striking plant, often covering a great extent of ground, and according to Dr. Hooker, forming the larger proportion of the food of the hogs which now run wild upon the main island of this group. It is indeed so abundant in the marshy spots, that these animals frequently live entirely amongst it, particularly where it grows near the margins of the woods, where they form broad tracks through the patches, grubbing up the roots to a great extent, and by trampling down the soft stems and leaves, make soft and warm places for them, to litter in.
One of these animals was shot by Mr. Hallett, the purser, and although in poor condition its flesh ​was considered well-flavoured, though by no means equal to that of our own well-fed pigs.
In order to increase the stock of useful animals, I directed a ram and two ewes, which we had brought from Hobart Town in the Erebus for the purpose, to be landed on the western side of the harbour; and a ram and two ewes brought by the Terror were taken several miles inland to the southward. Besides these were landed from our private stores some pigs, poultry, and rabbits. These last, together with a quantity of cabbage, turnip, mustard and cress, radish, and other seeds, were sent to me by Mr. Anstey, of Hobart Town, as well as a pair of goats, but one of them unfortunately died the day before we arrived at the Aucklands. Some seeds of each kind were sown in the small place we had cleared; and a great many gooseberry and currant bushes, and raspberry and strawberry plants, with which Sir John Franklin had directed us to be supplied from the Government garden, were distributed over various parts of the island by Dr. Hooker, and I have no doubt will for the most part thrive, and may hereafter prove a benefit to vessels calling there. The hens had formed nests in well-concealed situations, and had laid several eggs before we left the place. We found some small roots of potatoes and some plants of Siberian kale that had been left by some of our predecessors, and we planted some more of the former.
Whilst the magnetic observations were being ​made on shore, the other officers and crew of the ships were engaged procuring firewood, completing the water, and making the necessary preparations in the vessels for our voyage to the southward.
Mr. Tucker and Mr. Davis were employed under my directions surveying and sounding the harbour. Mr. Oakley was sent to examine Enderby Island, where also he landed some rabbits, and brought back with him the nests and young birds of several small kinds of petrel he found there. The medical officers having fortunately no sick to attend to, zealously devoted themselves to increase our collections of natural history in all its branches. Dr. Hooker brought on board a tree fern between three and four feet high, with fronds between four and five feet long: this and Campbell Island are the highest south latitudes they have yet been found in; and many curious and beautiful sea-weeds were gathered along the shores of the inlet. The seine was hauled, but with very indifferent success. A seal was seen with a good-sized fish in its mouth, proving their presence; but only two or three were taken,—a small flat-fish, near the head of Laurie Harbour, and the others about nine inches long, are described by Dr. Richardson under the name of Notothenia, of which genus he remarks the designation has reference to its high southern habitat, where it is probably represented by one or more species in almost every degree of longitude.
​Some of our officers finding it very laborious walking through the dense brushwood in their way to the western hills, opened a road by setting fire to the dried grass and sticks, which being fanned by a strong breeze, spread with great rapidity in all directions, burning a great part of the wood near which our Observatory was fixed; but fortunately did not approach to within half a mile of it. The whole country appeared in a blaze of fire at night. The scene as viewed from our ships was described as one of great magnificence and beauty. It was nevertheless a thoughtless prank, and might have been productive of great mischief, besides destroying so much valuable wood.
The result of our observations gave for the latitude of the spot, marked + on the plan, where the Observatory stood, 50° 32′ 30″ S., the longitude, 166° 12′ 34″ E. The magnetic dip 73° 12′, and the variation 17° 40′ E. High water at the full and change of the moon took place at twelve o'clock, and the highest spring tides scarcely exceeded three feet. A remarkable oscillation of the tide when near the time of high water was observed; after rising to nearly its highest, the tide would fall two or three inches, and then rise again between three and four inches, so as to exceed its former height rather more than an inch. This irregular movement generally occupied rather more than an hour, of which the fall continued about twenty minutes, and the rise again upwards of fifty minutes of the interval. The time here given as that of H.W. at ​full and change, is that of the last or greatest height of tide recorded.
Dec. 12.Our observations being completed, we re-embarked the instruments and observatories, and having repeated our experiments for determining the amount of deviation produced on the compass and dipping needle by the iron of the ships, we weighed on the morning of the 12th, and stood out to sea. As we passed Shoe Island at a distance of about fifty feet, the compasses were deviated nearly two points from their proper direction; showing in a striking manner the very extraordinary magnetic power of its component rocks. Three or four miles to the eastward of Ewing Island we found a very strong tide ripple; when, being well clear of the land, we shaped our course for Campbell Island, distant about one hundred and sixty-three miles. The weather throughout the day continued moderate and favourable, but a dense haze over the Auckland Islands soon concealed them from our view.
13thCampbell Island was seen at 7h. 50m. a.m., four or five leagues distant. I had been recommended before we left Van Diemen's Land to take the ships into the harbour near the north-east point of the island, but from the entrance it appeared so exposed to winds from that quarter, we bore away for the southern harbour. At 10h. 30m. a.m., when we entered the heads, we were compelled to reduce our sail to double-reefed topsails and courses by the strong gusts of wind which came down from ​the high lands to the westward, with astonishing force; the more dangerous from succeeding the light and baffling winds that occupy the intervals between the squalls. This occurrence of sudden and violent rushes of wind is a remarkable characteristic phenomenon of all the islands in about this latitude. We observed it at Kerguelen Island, at Auckland Island, and at Campbell Island; and the trees of the latter island especially indicate, by their prostrate position, the prevailing power of the westerly storms. The harbour is about four miles in depth, running for more than two miles in a W.N.W. direction, and thence after passing a shoal point, with a warning bed of sea-weed off it, about W.S.W. to its head. In the outer part of the harbour the water is too deep for convenient anchorage, but in the upper part, which is completely land-locked, there is abundance of room for a hundred ships to lie in the most perfect security, and where wood and excellent water can be had in any quantity. After four hours of hard work, beating through the outer arm of the harbour, we stood up to the head of it, and were just about to let go our anchor, when we perceived the ship stirring up the mud, and she soon after stuck fast. Some hawsers were run out to the trees on the shore; the ship warped off, and anchored in five and a half fathoms. At this time we observed the Terror aground on the shoal point above-mentioned, and immediately sent our boats to her assistance; but the tide was falling so fast that all ​their efforts to get her off were ineffectual; she had struck upon the shoal at the top of high water. On going on board of her I found Captain Crozier had made every preparation for heaving her off when the tide again flowed, having lightened the vessel as much as possible by starting the water, and landing the stores. As soon as the tide began to rise I returned to the Erebus with our boat's crews, and warped her near to the Terror, the more readily to afford her assistance, should it be required: but she floated off before high water without having sustained any damage, and anchored to the eastward of the point in six fathoms. Our boats were now employed refilling her water-tanks, whilst her own crew were re-embarking and stowing away the stores and provisions that had been landed to lighten her. Assisted by Mr. Tucker and Mr. Davis, I obtained the annexed survey of the harbour, and it employed those officers two entire days to complete the soundings. Our observations were made on a small beach near the shoal point, and is marked + on the plan of the harbour. It is in latitude 52° 33′ 26″ S., longitude 169° 8′ 41″ E., the magnetic dip 73° 53′, and the variation 17° 54′ E. The few days' observation of the tides, reduced to the times of full and change of the moon, gave high water at twelve o'clock; presenting also the same irregularities as were observed at Rendez-vous harbour, Auckland Island. The amount of rise and fall at dead neap tides was forty-three inches.
​made on board the ships, for here also we found a great amount of local attraction; the same instrument in different places giving widely different results, and proving how very liable to error all surveys made by compass must be, and especially so upon lands of volcanic formation; for, although so very remarkable in these islands, it may here be observed that there is scarcely any position on shore entirely free from this source of confusion; and even in our own country serious errors have been detected in surveys where the compass alone had been used.
Campbell Island was discovered in 1810, by Frederick Hazelburgh, in command of the brig Perseverance. He states that "the island is thirty miles in circumference, the country is mountainous, and there are several good harbours, of which two on the east side are to be preferred." The southern harbour of these two, in which we anchored, he named after his brig, "Perseverance Harbour."
The highest hill seen from the harbour is on its north side, and has an elevation of fifteen hundred feet. The shores on either side are steep, and rise abruptly to between eight and nine hundred feet. They are skirted by a belt of sea-weed, and the harbour is quite free from any danger except the shoal point on which the Terror grounded; so that a ship may run in or beat up with perfect confidence and safety. The hills from being less wooded have a more desolate appearance than those of the Auckland Islands, and although there is abundance of wood in the sheltered places, the trees nowhere ​attain so great a height as at the Auckland Islands. The seine was hauled on two promising-looking places near the head of the harbour, but without success. A rich collection of marine insects and shell-fish were obtained, and had our time permitted I think we should have found fish in a lake that some of the officers discovered by tracing a small stream to the southward, which emptied its superabundant waters into the upper corner of the inlet.
Those officers whose duties did not confine them to the vicinity of the ships made several excursions across the island, in various parts, especially Dr. Hooker, pursuing his botanical researches, and whose remarks on that department of natural science are here entered.
"Although Campbell's Island is situated 120 miles to the southward of Lord Auckland's group, and is of much smaller extent, it probably contains fully as many native plants. This arises from its more varied outline, and from its steep precipices and contracted ravines, affording situations more congenial to the growth of grasses, mosses, and lichens. Its iron-bound coast and rocky mountains, whose summits appear to the eye bare of vegetation, give it the aspect of a very desolate and unproductive rock, and it is not until the quiet harbours are opened, that any green hue save a few grassy spots is seen. In these narrow bays the scene suddenly changes; a belt of brushwood, composed of some of the trees mentioned as inhabitants of the ​last-visited island, but in a very stunted state, form a verdant line close to the beach. This is succeeded by bright green slopes, so studded with the Chrysobactron as to give them a yellow tinge, visible a full mile from the shore. Most of the beautiful plants of Lord Auckland's group, including the elegant caulescent ferns, are equally abundant here, and from many of them growing in this higher latitude at a proportionally lower elevation, their beauty strikes every one on first landing.
"The stay of the expedition here was necessarily very short, and though two days sufficed to collect between 200 and 300 species, the island cannot be considered as sufficiently explored to justify any rigid numerical comparison between its Flora and that of the Aucklands; still some few relative observations may be offered. Sixty-six flowering plants were detected, of which fourteen were not seen in the neighbouring group. Thus, in two degrees of latitude, thirty-four species had disappeared from the Flora of this longitude, and been replaced by at least twenty other plants, producing as great a concomitant change in the proportions of the two groups of flowering plants as was to be expected from the higher latitude. The new species are almost all typical of an antarctic climate, and consist both of species confined to the island, and of others hitherto considered peculiar to Antarctic America. The proportion of monocotyledonous plants is increased from being 1:2.2, to 1:1.4. The grasses, instead of bearing ​the small ratio of 1:14, which they do in Lord Auckland's group, here appear as 1:4.5. Cyperaceæ and Orchideæ have proportionally decreased, and the Compositæ which were to all Dicotyledones as 1:10.4, are here as 1:5.6. These are not the signs of the vegetation of a more rigorous latitude alone, but of one differing more widely from that of New Zealand than Lord Auckland's group did, where only one-seventh of the plants were common to other antarctic regions, whilst in Campbell's Island fully one-fourth are natives of other longitudes in the Southern Ocean.
"Considering the aggregate of the plants in the islands to the southward of New Zealand as composing one Flora, a comparison of it with those of other countries is not out of place here. The flowering plants amount to one hundred species, or about the same number as have been collected in the whole group of arctic islands to the northward of the American coast. Of these one-fourth have been found in New Zealand, whilst many of the others belong to genera whose abundance is characteristic of that country. Only one-thirteenth of the whole are known to be Tasmanian, and one-sixth are common to Tierra del Fuego. Since there is no other country with which these islands possess any marked botanical features in common, their Flora may be considered a continuation of that of New Zealand, differing only in that it is more typical of the antarctic regions.
"The remarkable points of resemblance to ​the last-named group with which we have compared this Flora, are the preponderance of Rubiaceæ, Araliaceæ, Epacrideæ, Orchideæ, and Myrsineæ; the small amount of surface occupied by Compositæ, Caryophylleæ, Cruciferæ, and Ericeæ; and the entire want of Saxifrageæ, Leguminosæ, Labiatæ, and Amentaceæ, all scantily represented in New Zealand. The more striking points of difference are the increased proportion of Monocotyledones, which are there as 1:3.2, and in these two islands as 1:1.8; of grasses, which bear a proportion there to other flowering plants of 1:13, and here of 1:6.8; and of Compositæ, which there appear as 1:8, and as 1:4.4 here. This Flora further departs from that of New Zealand in possessing none of its numerous species of pine or beech, of which latter genus five are now known to grow there, and this is the more remarkable because all the beeches and several of the pines are alpine, both in New Zealand and in Van Diemen's Land, only reaching the level of the sea in the southern parts of those islands. The pines of the southern hemisphere are, however, exceedingly local, nor are they so antarctic as some of those in the northern hemisphere are arctic. Of the ten New Zealand species it is not certain that more than two or three are natives of the middle island, or that any of them are peculiar ​to a latitude south of 40°. Not only do Lord Auckland's group and Campbell's Island exhibit no inconsiderable number of Fuegian plants, considering the immense intervening tract of ocean (upwards of 4,000 miles), but in all the particulars in which their Flora differs from that of New Zealand, it more closely approximates to that of Antarctic America. Strong though the resemblance is in the numerical proportions of the orders, and in the similarity of many of the smaller plants, the trees and shrubs of the one differ in every respect from those of the other locality; for beeches extend from a latitude in the American continent which corresponds to their principal parallel in New Zealand beyond the latitude of Lord Auckland's group, as far south as Cape Horn itself, in the 57th degree.
"The relation between the Flora now under consideration and that of the northern regions is but slight; and the same may be said, though not to an equal extent, of any two countries in the higher latitudes of the opposite hemispheres. This group lies in the latitude of England, yet we recognise in it only three indigenous plants of our own island,—the Cardamine hirsuta, Montia, and Callitriche. Of the sixty genera twenty-two are English, and twenty-eight natives of a more northern latitude than England. Hardly any of these belong to the divisions Calycifloræ, Compositæ, or to the higher orders of the Monocotyledones; while, on the other hand, they include the whole of the Thalamifloræ, ​Monochlamydeæ and grasses, and most of the Cyperaceæ. Such genera as Sieversia, Trisetum, and Hierochlœ have their analogues chiefly in the arctic regions; whilst Myosotis, Ranunculus, Cardamine, Stellaria, Veronica, Luzula, Juncus, and all the grasses, are predominant in the arctic Flora. There are, however, slight points of resemblance, rendering the want of a larger amount of their congeners more remarkable, and also of others which in the north generally accompany them, as saxifrages, heaths, and Vaccinia, Leguminosæ, pines, beech, and especially oak, birch, and willow; for most of which no representative has hitherto been found in the high southern latitudes."
The geology of this island is very similar to that of the Aucklands, except in the total absence of land-birds, of which the Aucklands possess seven or eight species. The albatross had formed their nests on the tops of the north-western cliffs of the island, and a great many of their eggs were obtained, but none of the young had yet appeared.
The remains of some huts were found on each side of a cove to the north of the Erebus anchorage, as also the graves of several seamen who had evidently been employed on the seal-fishing, and amongst them that of a French woman who had been accidentally drowned by the upsetting of a boat in the harbour. There had also been an establishment by the side of a stream in the northwest corner of the harbour, but its situation was not so good for the purpose as that of the cove.
​During the 15th and 16th we were busily engaged completing wood and water, and making all necessary preparations for our southern voyage, which may be considered to have commenced on leaving this harbour. I now communicated to Commander Crozier my intention of proceeding direct to the southward upon the meridian of this island rather than upon that of Hobart Town, and was gratified to find he entirely concurred with my views upon this subject. He received his final orders, and a complete list of rendezvous, containing instructions how to act in case of the ships unavoidably parting company, so as to ensure our meeting again without loss of time. And by the evening of the 16th, the day having been unusually favourable, we had fully accomplished all the purposes of our visit to this place, and the ships were ready for sea.
* ↑ Greenwich Observations, 1841, p. 37., and 1842, p. 34.
* ↑ The Plates quoted all refer to those published in the Botany of the Antarctic Expedition.
* ↑ Figured in the Botany of the French South Polar Expedition.
* ↑ Flora Antarctica, p. 20.
* ↑ Ibid. p. 32. Plates 24, 25
* ↑ Zoology, by Dr. Richardson, p. 5. Plate 3.
* ↑ The calculations relating to the New Zealand Flora are founded on the Prodromus of Mr. Cunningham, and the results must be considered as probable approximations only.