# Journals of Several Expeditions Made in Western Australia, During the Years 1829, 1830, 1831, and 1832/Journal of an Expedition over General Darling's Range, 100 miles east from Swan River

From Journals of Several Expeditions Made in Western Australia, During the Years 1829, 1830, 1831, and 1832
APPENDIX.
No. 1.
JOURNAL of an Expedition over General Darling's Range, 100 miles east from Swan River.
Everything relative to an expedition into the interior of a newly-discovered country, will be interesting to you, therefore you will readily excuse the insertion of small matters and circumstantial details, which will be of little interest to others.
Previous to commencing my Journal, I will give you an account of our fit-out from the Peninsula:—Mr. C. and myself found three horses and a servant, the English mare carried the greater part of our baggage, and the other two we rode occasionally. We took the lining of a tent to keep off the heavy dews in the night, and to refresh ourselves under in the heat of the day. A small axe and spade answered the purposes of cutting down a pole for the tent, and of trying the land where we travelled; each person was furnished with a blanket, which was to serve as bed and covering; from ten to fourteen days' provisions were deemed necessary for the expedition, which consisted of flour, biscuit, pork, rice, sugar, tea, spirits, &c. &c. We had each a compass; this is a very useful article, and indispensably necessary in a foreign country, where there are neither roads nor marks to steer by, nor human beings to communicate information on the subject. Having given an account of our equipment, I shall now proceed with my Journal.
October 23d.—About noon, Mr. Camfield, a neighbour ​of ours arrived, and we immediately crossed the Swan in a large flat-bottomed boat, which Captain Byrne was kind enough to send over for us; at that gentleman's we enjoyed drinking a glass of colonial-manufactured beer. A gentleman of the name of Bull, who lives up the Canning, brews this beer, and sells it three shillings per gallon. A little higher up the river lives Mr. Drummond the botanist, an intelligent man, and clever in his profession; after receiving their benediction, we passed on, and in a little time met with Lieut. Gregory, who very politely invited us in; we sat for a few minutes, held a short confabulation on the occurrences of the day, and then bent our course to the banks of the Helena. On our way, we saw several other houses to the left, situated on the banks of the Swan; the smoke ascending above the heights of the trees is a pleasing variety where shrubs and trees are evergreens. The Helena is a fine strong fresh-water stream: has its source in the mountains, and falls into the Swan below Guildford. On this truly rural spot we found a brick-yard, two or three houses, and a garden, belonging to Colonel La Tours; the house, the best of the kind I have seen in the colony. Every thing about the place bore evident marks of desertion; not a soul could we find; this large establishment is completely broken up. I have been told, which I believe to be the case, that it originally consisted of about a hundred souls, and the general impression here is, that if the ooncern had been properly and efficiently supported and managed, by this time it would have been in a flourishing condition. As it regards situation and choice of land, there appears to have been some proper judgment exerted, but, alas! for want of energy, funds, and general judgment in the conducting such a phalanx, every measure which might have been effective and successful, has become abortive. Night fast approaching and spreading her sable curtains around us, we thought it prudent to take possession of this deserted dwelling, and for once enliven the place by lighting up a large and brilliant fire in the garden. After some little preparation, we sat down on the ground, and regaled ourselves by drinking tea, and perfuming the air by burning a celebrated ​"Indian weed:" smoking is more helpful here than in England; it assists in keeping off that torment of Australla, the musquito, which is always ready to thrust his proboscis into your flesh where it is unprotected; it is a fortunate circumstance, this insect only frequents low swampy places and lands in their vicinity. Upon examining the house floor, we found it very damp, and not fit to sleep upon, therefore, without more ceremony, we went into the garden, erected our tent, and turned in for the night. This afternoon we walked over a fair quantity of good land, and crossed several streams: this land, in my opinion, is well adapted to the climate, being rather light or sandy, yet well covered with vegetation, and suitable for grazing and agricultural operations. I have no correct idea of the quantity, but suppose it does not extend far from the river; however, this district is granted away. Heard of the arrival of a ship since we left home, and are anxious to know where she is from.
October 24th.—Arose ahout half-past five o'clock, breakfasted, and crossed the Helena immediately; had some little difficulty in so doing. On arriving at Mr. Boyde's, we were disappointed in not finding his Excellency the Lieut.-Governor there according to appointment, but supposed the arrival of a ship to be the cause, which afterwards proved to be the case. His Excellency arrived about noon, in company with Wm. Stirling, esq., Mr. Dale, ensign, Dr. Colley, the Rev. Wittenholme, Mr. Jones, three servants, and five horses; the party now consisted of sixteen men, ten horses, and six dogs. There are several very fine alluvial flats of excellent land about Guildford, well suited for fattening strong cattle, and equal in quality to most I have seen in England. This land, I am informed, is almost, if not altogether, taken up, except town allotments, which are granted away in small quantities, and then actual residence is required, in order to secure them. We left Mr. Boyde's about three o'clock, bent our course about E., and travelled to the mountains; we ascended a little up a rugged pass; found a fine stream, with forage for the horses; here we encamped for the night. Our tent was the only one in the party. His Excellency slept in a ​hammock slung between two trees, the rest of the gentletmen folded themselves up in their blankets about nine o'clock, and slept before the fire.
October 25th.—The blast of the bugle saluted our ears about five o'clock; breakfasted, and set off about halfpast six. Travelled E by N. four hours over a mountainous country, very rugged in some parts, and halted by another stream; here we rested three hours. The hills abound with the finest mahogany I have seen; the trees are very lofty, and amazingly straight; it is very surprising how such fine timber can grow on such stony and apparently inferior land. We commenced our journey again about half-past one o'clock, and halted about three, indeed, we encamped for the night, the Governor being very much indisposed. We crossed several mountain streams to-day; saw but one kangaroo.
October 26th.— Arose at five o'clock, set off at seven; about ten o'clock we fell in with three large kangaroos, and had the good fortune to kill one; it would weigh from 100 to 120 lbs.; according to the practice here, we gutted him, fed the dogs, and immediately set to work and skinned him. A mountain-stream being hard by, we halted, and soon had some of the animal on the fire; it was cooked in three different ways, but for want of proper seasonings, suitable vessels, and good cooks, it was a miserable mess. The kangaroo, when properly prepared, is excellent food; the flesh of the large ones, when roasted, resembles beef, but destitute of fat; the young ones, when nicely managed, eat very much like ham; it also makes very nutritious soup. Begun to travel again about one o'clock, and continued until evening, when we found another stream; here we put up our tent, and bivouaced for the night. The general character of the country the same as yesterday; a little sand here and there in the valleys may be found capable of cultivation, and, probably, at no distant period innkeepers may find it worth their notice, and plant themselves by the way. Found an emu's nest to-day, the shells of the eggs only remained, the young ones had been hatched some time.
October 27th.—Set off early again this morning. Killed ​two kangaroos of the large kind, which are properly called forest kangaroos, and a small one of another kind, called the mountain kangaroo; some bad travelling ahout here, but suppose it might be avoided by keeping in or near the valleys. We saw many white cockatoos to-day; this bird is very wholesome food. A traveller may, in general, conclude he is not far from water when many of these birds are to be seen; we also observed they were most numerous on the best lands. The white cockatoo appears to live on what it takes from the ground, whether insects or roots, I am not able to say. The black kind live on the buds of large trees and shrubs. About 12 o'clock, we made the river, and were in some measure disappointed. At the time it was discovered by Messrs. Dale and Brockman, it would be from one hundred to two hundred yards across in some places, marks of inundation being discoverable to that extent; in other parts thirty, forty, or sixty yards wide, with rather high banks. When this circumstance is taken into consideration, it was in the midst of the rainy season, Messrs. Dale and Brockman are very excusable for taking it for a river. The rainy season being over, the floods have subsided, and the true course of the stream or streams may be distinctly seen; where the waters prevailed most, at the period mentioned before, may now be discovered alluvial flats, well covered with grass, and admirably suited for grazing cattle in the hot months. Where the course of the water was most contracted in the rainy season, at present there is as fine a river, to all appearance, for half a mile together, as any one can wish to see; the fact is, these appearances of a river, are large reservoirs or ponds, made by the tremendous rush of waters from the hills at that period. I am of opinion this strong mountain stream falls into a river northward. Though our hopes of inland navigation are cut of from this place, yet this stream will be of infinite advantage to the district, yielding an abundant supply of excellent water for man and beast all the year. I felt rather disappointed in the quality of the land, in descending from the hills to the stream, which would be between two and three miles; at the same time it is land that may be made to produce ​most kinds of grain, except beans; it is thinly covered with grassy, but of a good kind. In the afternoon, we travelled in a southerly direction up the stream, the land continues to improve, and some very nice farms may be found; it lies remarkably well for draining. The whole of this land is lightly wooded; a species of gum and green wattle are the kinds which prevail most; here and there is to be seen the sandal wood tree. We halted by a small stream for the night. Our evenings have been very agreeably spent.
Oct. 28th.—Up early as usual. After breakfast walked to the foot of Mount Bakewell—this mount is remarkable on account of its peak and height. The best soil I have seen since I left England is about the base of this hill; the grass, also, is truly good and thick set. The land walked over this morning is of excellent quality, generally speaking, very nicely situated, and well suited for grazing and agricultural purposes; it may be very easily drained, and will not require any very great draught to turn up the soil. I think this district cannot be properly called loamy, that term implying, unctuous, or marly ground; the soil here is rather light than otherwise, inclining to sand more than clay—some would call it a sandy loam, but how far correct I am not able to determine. I think the best way to describe it is to compare it with land you and my friends are acquainted with in Lincolnshire and Yorkshire. It is similar to good wold land, with this exception, it has got the granite pebble instead of the chalk or flint one; land impregnated with granite is generally good, whilst that with ironstone in it is the reverse, at least I think so, from the observations I have made. On arriving at the foot of this hill we began to ascend; it is very steep in some places, and required a good deal of energy and resolution to reach the top; however, when we got there we were not disappointed, but amply repaid for our labour. To the W. and N.W. we had a most beautiful and extensive view, hill above hill in almost endless succession till they are lost in the clouds,the smoke of a native fire at some distance—indeed there is a very romantic and delightful prospect all around except to the N.E. S. and ​S.E. may be seen very plainly the course of this strong mountain stream; a very large flat of land lies between this mount and the stream, having a very encouraging appearance. It having been previously understood that some of the party were to proceed there on four days' journey due E. and the others to return home about 12 o'clock, we who were of the party going forward took leave of his Excellency the Lieutenant Governor, Captain Byrne, Dr. Colley, and the minister, at the foot of Mount Bakewell. We crossed the stream a little before one o'clock, and walked about three miles over good land, superior in quality to that seen in the morning. Taking the quantity together, this tract may be properlv termed undulating, being composed of gentle rising hills and fruitful dales, and beautifully wooded. We then came to a limestone ridge, which may hereafter be of considerable service to this district both for building and manure. After crossing this we fell in with a portion of country quite different from any I had seen before in Auatralla; it is free from trees, and covered, where it is not burnt up, with a low shrub. This brought to my mind an English common, or unenclosed waste; there may be 2,000 or 3,000 acres of this description, very inferior in quality, and fit for nothing at present except kangaroos or rabbits to browse upon. After crossing a stony ridge, we met with another flat of land something lower, and clear of brush-wood, but similar in quality to that last-mentioned. In the early part of the day we passed two or three streams of good water; some of the party had a conversation with the natives, who were very civil, and wished to make them understand what they meant by a variet)r of singular gestures; these are the first we had seen since we left home. Walked eleven miles after dinner.
Oct. 29th.—Rose at 5 o'clock, as usual, and got breakfast immediately. We walked about half an nour over fair soil; a few useful farms might be got here, but I think they would be small. On the S.W. may be seen large hills, with considerable patches of land on them, completely clear of timber. After walking six miles we ​found a stream running to the S. There is likely to be water here all the year; in some places it is rather deep. Two miles distant we found another stream. There are hundreds and thousands of acres of land about this part entirely clear of wood, mostly sand, but not of the worst kind; there is a slight portion of vegetable earth among it. It is my opinion, if this land were in England instead of New Holland, there would be a crop of turnips upon the whole of it the next year. After taking dinner we walked four miles, across an open undulating country, very sandy, and bad in quality, but good to travel over; a gig might drive here for miles together without any considerable obstruction. We next found a tract of better land, with a fair quantity of wood. We encamped in a valley for the night, and had to dig holes in order to get water. In the course of the day we had, perhaps, the finest and longest kangaroo chase that has been seen in the colony: the kangaroos on these commons are amazingly swift, and it requires a good grey-hound to come up with them. Passed two native huts, superior in size and architecture to those we are accustomed to see. Oct.30th,—Set off at half-past 6 o'clock, walked a mile, and saw Mount Bakewell W. 3° S. There is a nice farm in the valley we have just crossed, perhaps 1000 or 2000 acres. This valley is surrounded on three sides by sandy commons. We walked over the one that lay in our course about one mile and a half in breadth, and got to the top of a hill; here we had a view of the country before us, which was of a different character from the one just passed over, being well clothed with wood. Upon exploring it we found it to be very ragged in some places, with some middling good land in the valleys. Towards evening we fell in with a forest of gum-trees, different from any known on the Swan and Canning Rivers; we named them cable or fluted gum, being considerably twisted, yet they are very tell and straight, and the bark of a green or olive colour. Our course lay through this forest; and after walking five miles we arrived at the foot of a mountain, very singular in appearance, and composed of solid granite. This huge rock we ​afterwards called Mount Stirling, after W. Stirling, Esq. Here we had to dig for water; it was about 7 o'clock when we made this place.
Oct 31st.—Upon examination it was found our quantity of provisions would not admit of our going further E., we therefore ascended several very high hills for the purpose of examining the country and making observations. Mr. Dale and Mr. Stirling went to a high hill three or four miles off, which they named Mount Caroline, after a lady in this part Mr. Camfield, Mr. Clarkson, and myself, went to another, the highest of three, which we named Mount Elizabeth, after a lady of your acquaintance. We arrived at the top of this very high hill or rock about half-past 10 o'clock. In ascending the E. side, near the top, we found a small spring of excellent water, the day being very hot we found it of very great service. Due E. we observed the smoke of a native fire ten miles off; the country in that direction appears gradually to rise, water in two or three places may be seen. The valley from E. towards N. abounds with swamps or salt marshes, the water brackish, and a quantity of samphire grows there; a large extent of country is evidently under water in the rainy season. E.S.E. are to be seen four mounts S. W. There is a peaked hill of considerable height about fifteen miles distant. From W. and by S. may be distinctly seen a body of water, with a blue mist, indicating water for two miles in a southerly direction. W. about three miles is a small round hill, thinly covered with wood, and of a sandy complexion. From Mount Elizabeth, Stirling's Mount bears S.S.W., Mount Caroline N.N.E. about two miles and a half off. On the top of this massy rock there is an astonishing number of lizards, remarkably beautiful, and the velocity with which they move is truly surprising. After making the above observations we began to descend, and found a much stronger spring of water on the N.W. side; we likewise found an arched piece of rock, with several bird's nests adhering to the top. From their peculiar construction and composition, I judge they belong to the swallow tribe, but very different from those seen in England. There is much good land about the base of these ​mountains, what there is beyond is not for us to determine, that work must be left to other explorers in after-days; however, it is some satisfaction, that we left good land at the eastern extremity of our route. After dinner we steered S., in order to change our course a little; in this direction we found land of excellent quality, capable of producing good corn, and very suitable for sheep. Having travelled six miles we encamped by a stream for the night.
Nov. 1st.—Set off at 6 o'clock, S.S.W., first mile or two tolerably good land; we then met with high sandy commons similar to what have been described before, rather better in quality if anything. About 10 o'clock, having walked nine miles, we cut upon two large lagoons; here we halted; there is strong presumptive evidence that these lagoons contain water all the summer; we shot at a brace of musk ducks here; these birds cannot fly. There are plenty of kangaroos here, without going out of our tract we saw at least twenty. The kangaroo appears to be the ancient and almost sole proprietor of these extensive wolds. After dinner we travelled to a peaked hill, which we named Mount Deborah, after a celebrated lady in Yorkshire; from it we had a view of the native fires, with appearances of water bearing W. 16° N. There are 2,000 acres of good land, more or less, about this mount; a water-course on the north side, but little water in it at present; it would make a delightful farm; here we lodged for the night.
November 2nd.—Set off early, as usual, walked three miles through a forest, so thick in some parts, that we were obliged to alter our course. On the edge of this wood we found a large lagoon, and after walking another mile, through brushwood and swamps, we found another lagoon of considerable magnitude, the water in both brackish. These lagoons are evidently much larger in the rainy season; they must at that time cover many hundreds of acres of land; probably they are a continuation of those seen about Mount Elizabeth and Mount Caroline, and I am pursuaded they must fall into a river southward. After leaving these lagoons, we ascended a huge sand hill, and descended on the other side into a wood; here the land is better again. A little before we ​halted, we passed over a small tract of the richest land I ever saw, to the best of my recollection. Travelled eleven miles this morning, and rested in a valley where there is plenty of grass. After taking a little refreshment, we commenced our journey again, and in a little time met with a small party of natives; these are the first I have seen on this excursion. We got a green branch, (which is the emblem of peace,) shouted, and made many signs, but all was unavailing; poor Mungo, I venture to say, was never in such a predicament in his life before; he shouted, and appeared to boil with rage, showed his spear and throwing stick, but when he found that all his bravado did not deter us, but that we still kept advancing, his courage forsook him, and the whole party took to their heels, and away they ran, hooting and muttering, yet apparently terrified beyond measure; and no wonder, for I suppose they had never seen an European before, much less a horse, with a man thereon. As they worship the sun, and probably other celestial bodies, they might think "the Gods had come down." Very little good land this afternoon. Saw thirty kangaroos to-day.
November 3d.— Not having any water last night, except what we had in some small canteens, we arose at half past four o'clock, and commenced a brisk march before breakfast; we got very wet, some heavy showers of rain fell, and after walking six miles, we felt something like Cowper's "Farmer at the tything time in Essex." It was no time to joke. Passed over two or three pieces of excellent land this morning, and beautifully situated; many charming farms may be got about here, from 100 to a 1000 acres, more or less. After breakfast we set off again, and were highly delighted, whilst walking about nine miles over the best land I have seen in the colony; we then fell in with a strong stream, which afterwards proved to be the same, or a branch of the same, discovered by Messrs. Dale and Brockman before: the land here is very good and covered with grasses of excellent quality, even to the tops of the hills; and, in a short time, this part will be found peculiarly applicable to breeding and grazing sheep and young cattle. In my opinion, I never saw a finer country for sheep. ​November 4th.— After breakfast we crossed the stream, walked over valley, found another rivulet, ascended a high hill; from this eminence we had a view of Mount Bakewell, hearing N. twelve miles off; it is all hill and dale in the intermediate space, with every appearance of good land. The native grasses in this part are very good, and grow very strong; some of them are a yard in length; but where they are very long, it must be observed, they are thinly planted in general. About 11 o'clock we halted, and after dinner Mr. Clarkson, Mr. Crawfield, and myself, crossed the stream, with the intention of examining the land some miles distant, but in this we were disappointed by a heavy rain; however, what we did see amply repaid us for our labour.
November 5th.—Gunpowder-plot. Arose before 5 o'clock, breakfasted, and bent our course home due W. Our stock of provisions being rather low, we could not spend more time in examining the country; the first five miles after leaving the stream was very hilly, but the land good, with huge pieces of granite rock here and there. The land in the vicinity of this place is well watered; even in the tops of some of the highest hills, water may be had all the year round. Plenty of stone may be procured for the purposes of building houses, out-houses, and fences. There are no large trees on the good land, but plenty of black or green wattle, which gives it a very pleasing and picturesque appearance; there is also a species of gum; these two kinds of wood will do very well for the farmer at first, and there is plenty of mahogany and some red gum, within a few miles. The limestone ridge opposite Mount Bakewell, will also be of very great service to this part if no other can be found nearer. The good native grasses of Western Australia, to the amount of half a dozen or more, I should not know from good English grasses, were it not for the knowledge I have of the distance that separates the two countries. I frankly confess that I am a novice in botany, and botanical phrases, or I would have given you the proper names of each of these grasses: however, I have vanity enough to suppose I know what kinds of grass are suitable for sheep and cattle; and I give it as my opinion, that the before-mentioned grasses ​are of the right kind. The climate on this side the mountains I like much, not being ao hot, by several degrees, as on the Swan; the air is fresh and bracing, the dews heavy in the night; indeed, if we may make vegetation speak a language, it is this—here the soil is good, the climate fine, and the rains sufficient. At the same time, I would have you take notiee of the three following considerations:-First, every country is subject to vicissitudes, one season may be dry and another wet. Secondly, it is but two months since the rainy season. Thirdly, I am a fallible being, and therefore my judgment may be wrong. However, to make short of the matter, I say I am well satisfied with what I have seen on the Avon, and you are fully aware of what experience I have had in these things, and therefore will be able to give an opinion on the subject to your friends and neighbours. At the end of the five miles before mentioned, there is a very sudden change in the soil, and the appearance of the country; the ironstone rocks are to be seen, and very little or no good grass, except in the valleys. We have lost a fine greyhound, and the other dogs are very lame. Travelled eight miles this afternoon: this part of the country has lost all its interest, except as a medium to a better.
November 6th.—Arose betime and intended starting with all speed, but to our mortification, Mr. Clarkson found that his English mare and a Cape one had taken " French leave,"as we sometimes say; but what a wonder they have been permitted to roam at large before, as was the case last nignt, so it cannot be counted a misfortune but an act of imprudence. After a long search they could not be found, so we left him and his man all the provisions we could spare, and they tarried behind, hoping to find them in the course of the day, but the sequel proved their hope was vain. So far, we have met with better roads on our way home than on our way out. We rested a little time, and then ascended a huge mountain; on the other side it was very rugged and steep, with the Helena running at its base; in the space of half a mile we crossed two other streams, which run into the one before mentioned. After passing these streams, we had ​to climb another hill, of no ordinary ascent, which made perspiration flow freely; time and patience brought us to the top, and on the other side may be seen mahogany trees of extraordinary dimensions: I measured one which had been burnt down, which was thirty-eight yards, or 114 feet long; another that was standing measured fourteen yards round the base. I stood by another which lay flat on the ground, but could not see over it; this tree would be six feet in diameter, at least: you may think these dimensions almost incredible, but I assure you it is fact. Found a beautiful stream and rested for the night before the fire, the tent being left in the wilderness.
November 7th.—Set off again about 6 o'clock, and after a march of about five hours and a half, through forest, swamp, and stream, we arrived at the last hill, and had a view of the sea, Garden Island, Rotteness, Melville Waters, Mount Eliza, Perth, &c. With considerable difficulty we descended into the plain, and took a little refreshment by a delightful brook. After resting a little, we set off again, having eight or ten miles to walk, and about half past 5 we arrived at Captain Byrne's, and had the satisfaction of again seeing home.
"Be it ever so humble, there is no place like home," after a sixteen days' ramble into the interior of a country where no Europeans had been before us. Had you seen the party arrive you would certainly have either laughed or cried, I don't know which; some were in a pitiable plight, having worn out their shoes,—a good crop of toes to be seen before, and a famous round heel behind; others with their trowsers worn off half-way up the leg, and a knee peeping out; some had not been shaven all the time, others but once; in fact, it was high time all of us made the land of the living again, for all needed some repairs, and our stock of provisions was all but exhausted: it put me in mind of some words in Cowper's "Mutual forbearance,"
"worn out graces, Long beards, long notes, and pale faces. Are each an antiquated scene."
Pale faces was not applicable in the present case, for ​some were burnt red, and others not very light coloured. Now I have given you an account of this expedition, and I am happy to say, satisfaction is the result of reflecting upon it; not upon the writing or composition, but upon the subject matter of it: on the whole, it must be considered a successful one, and I have no doubt but time, "no distant date," will prove the truth of what I have ventured to prognosticate.
REMARKS.
Our not finding water must be attributed to our not knowing the country, for in general we found water near, the following morning.
I saw no birds, beasts, or reptiles but what were known before.
The kangaroo must be very numerous in the interior, if we may judge from the quantity seen in walking a straight line.
I am of opinion a large portion of the good land seen south of Mount Bakewell, will keep a sheep and a half per acre. They allow three acres for a sheep on the other side of the island.
Lastly, I receive no salary from Government for scribbling, therefore I hope to stand acquitted from a charge brought against some journalists who have written from other countries.
T. W. H.
To Robert Harvey, Esq., Barrow, Lincolnshire.
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