# A Topographical Description of the State of Ohio, Indiana Territory, and Louisiana/Mississippi

A
DESCRIPTION
OF THE
MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
This noble river was made the western boundary of the United States, by the definitive treaty with Great Britain, in the year 1783. Considering its great length, the prodigious column of water rolling in its deep channel, and the quantity dis charged by numerous outlets, it must be rated among the largest rivers on the American continent. It has been called the American Nile, from some resemblance it seems to bear to that celebrated river in Egypt. The fertility of Egypt is well known to be owing to the periodical overflowing of the Nile. From a similar course, vast tracts of land have been enriched by the outlets and overflowing of the Mississippi. The Nile begins to rise about the middle of June, and to subside in September. The floods in the Mississippi begin about the first of April, and the water falls within its banks by the first of August. The overflowing is much greater on the ​western, than on the eastern side of the river. From New Madrid to Pointe Coupee, a distance of more than eight hundred miles, the land on the western bank, with the exception of a few small tracts, is overflowed in the spring. In some parts the inundation extends fifty miles back from the river, covering vast cypress swamps, and lands producing different kinds of wood, with a depth of from two to twelve feet of water. No considerable settlements for this distance can be formed on the bank of the river. But much of the bank on the eastern side rises above the highest floods, and will admit of settlements and improvement. The waters of the Nile are extolled by the Egyptians, on account of their wholesome qualities and pleasant taste. The waters of the Mississippi, after filtration, or being in any way purified from a muddy sediment, are not disagreeable to the taste, especially to those who have been habituated to them. They are supposed to be possessed of medical properties, operating on some people as a mild cathartic, and generally cleansing the skin from curtaneous eruptions.
It is supposed the Mississippi takes its rise in a lake called White Bear Lake, but its head waters appear not to have been very accurately explored. The most that is known is derived from Indian information. The river above the falls of Saint Anthony, is called, by the Indians, Blue river. Here the stream is remarkably clear, and said to be navigable above the falls for three ​hundred miles. These falls were first visited by Father Louis Hennipin, a French Missionary, about the year 1680, who was the first European ever seen by the natives, and who gave them the name of Saint Anthony's falls. The country adjacent approaches to a plain, with some swelling hills. At the falls the river is two hundred and fifty yards wide, and the perpendicular descent of the water about thirty feet. Near the falls the prospect is said to be highly picturesque and delightful. This widely expanded sheet of water may be seen several miles below, where the eye of the beholder is struck with pleasing admiration, and views, with rapture, this romantic scene. At these falls a large factory is established, where many of the western bands of Indians bring their furs and peltry, to exchange for various kinds of merchandise.
About ten miles below the falls enters the large river Saint Peters, from the westward. The mouth of this river is one hundred yards wide, and the current deep. It is said that it holds its depth and width very nearly for two hundred miles. Further up, several branches come in; the head waters of some of which are said to take their rise near the streams which run into the Missouri. On this river and its branches are several trading posts, where Indians who reside on the Missouri frequently resort for commerce.
At a small distance above the mouth of the river Chippeway, is a lake, about twenty miles in ​length and six miles in breadth, called lake Pepin. The Mississippi passes through this lake, and although the French have denominated it a lake, it has rather the appearance of an extended width of the river. The water in some parts of it is deep, and abounds with several kinds of excellent fish. Large numbers of fowl, such as storks, swan, geese, ducks, and brant, resort to this lake. The groves and plains around it are replenished with turkies and partridges.
Below the lake, the river glides with a gentle current, having alternately high lands on one side, and extended meadows on the other. Some of the precipices fronting the river, are high and steep, ascending like pyramids, and exhibiting the appearance of ancient towers. Descending down the river, the eye is delighted, in some places, with the view of large, rich prairies, extending far back towards distant mountains, with beautiful groves or copses of trees, scattered over them, and watered with a number of small lakes.
Between the Saint Peters and Missouri rivers, many streams of considerable magnitude enter the Mississippi from the westward. The largest of them is the river Moin, about one hundred miles above the mouth of the Illinois. On this river the Sioux, and some other bands of Indians, frequently descend with their furs and skins for market. The current of the Mississippi continues gentle, and its water clear, until it joins the Missouri, where it becomes much more rapid, and ​remarkably cold and muddy. At the common stage of the waters, in these two streams, the Missouri is supposed to be the largest river. This junction is formed twenty-five miles below the Illinois, and two hundred and thirty miles above the Ohio.
The land on the banks of the Missouri are rich, and where they are well cultivated, exceedingly productive. There are two settlements, Saint Charles and Saint Andrew, principally inhabited by emigrants from Kentucky. Other small settlements have commenced further up the river. The most distant settlement of white people is Saint John's, which is one hundred miles from its mouth. The great extent of this river was unknown until it was, explored by Captain Lewis, and Captain Clark. Traders had before ascended two thousand miles, but Captain Lewis computes the distance from the mouth to the great falls, to be two thousand five hundred and seventy-five miles. About one hundred miles above Saint John's, the river becomes broad,being eight hundred and seventy-five yards wide, where the Osage river enters; but about fifty miles further up it narrows again to about three hundred yards. The Osage comes in from the south, and is one hundred and ninety-seven yards wide at its mouth. The Osage Indians reside on this river, from whom it takes its name, about two hundred miles from its mouth. Here the extensive prairies commence, wholly destitute of trees, ​but covered with tall grass, and continue, with little interruption, far towards the borders of New Mexico, and the Rocky Mountains.
Fifteen miles below the mouth of the Missouri, is Saint Louis, delightfully situated on elevated ground, upon the bank of the Mississippi. It is considered to be the most healthy and pleasant situation known in this part of the country. The settlement of this village was began by a few French people, who came over from the east side of the river, about the year 1765. It became the residence of the Spanish Commandant, and of the principal Indian traders. The trade of the Indians on the Missouri, part of the Mississippi, and Illinois, was chiefly drawn to this village. Before the purchase of Louisiana by the United States, it contained one hundred and twenty houses, mostly built of stone, but large and commodious dwellings. It contained about eight hundred inhabitants who were mostly French. Since this purchase was made, numbers have emigrated to this village from different parts of the United States. There are now more than two hundred houses, a post office, and a printing office, issuing a Weekly Gazette. There are many mercantile stores, and a flourishing trade in furs and peltry. It is made the seat of territorial government for Upper Louisiana.
Saint Genevieve, or Missire is sixty-four miles lower down, on the bank of the Mississippi, and nearly opposite the village of Kaskaskia. It is a ​considerable village, containing more than two hundred houses. In the year 1773, this and Saint Louis were the only villages on the western side of the river. At a short distance below is a small settlement, called the Saline, where large quantities of salt are made, and sold at the works for about one dollar per bushel. Not far from Saint Genevieve, in a western direction, a large number of lead furnaces are worked, producing great quantities of lead, where it may be purchased at three or four cents per pound. In various parts of a large tract of country south of the Missouri, numerous lead mines are to be found. Many of them are not more than two or three feet below the surface, and may be worked with great ease. Were the inhabitants sufficiently numerous to work the mines, it is supposed a quantity of lead might be obtained from the ore, equal to the supply of all Europe.
The principal mines which have yet been worked, are near the head waters and branches of the river Marameg. This river is of considerable size; it enters the Mississippi about twenty miles below Saint Louis; it comes in nearly in the direction of the Missouri; and its widely extended branches reach far back into the country. About forty miles from Saint Genevieve, on a branch of the Marameg, is Barton's mine, discovered by Francis Barton, who obtained a grant of the land, and began to work the ore nearly forty years ago. It is now in the possession of a Mr. ​Austin, who has erected a good smelting furnace. This ore is not of the richest kind, but a greater quantity has been worked here, than in any other part of the country, from which the owner has derived great profits. The ore is taken out of the ground in an open prairie which is elevated nearly one hundred feet above the bed of the creek, and is supposed to extend over some thousands of acres. The mineral is found within two feet of the surface, in a strata of gravel, in which it lies in lumps, from one to fifty pounds weight. Under this strata is a sand rock, easily broken up with a pick-axe, and when exposed to the air, readily crumbles to fine sand. The ore intermixed in the sand rock is similar to that in the upper gravel strata. Under the sand rock is a strata of red clay about six feet thick. Beneath the clay is the best ore, in lumps from ten to two or three hundred pounds weight, the outside of which is frequently covered with a gold or silver coloured talky substance; some portion of arsenic and sulphur; and more or less of spar, antimony, and zinc, are sometimes found intermixed with the ore. Some of this ore will yield from sixty to seventy-five per cent.
About five miles from Barton's, in an eastern direction, is an old mine, discovered by the French, as early as their first settlement in this country, and was worked until Barton erected a furnace at his mine. It was then neglected until the year 1802, when a number of French ​families made a settlement near it. On opening the mine they found a rich ore in great plenty. But the French furnaces were very badly constructed. They were formed somewhat similar to a lime kiln, at the bottom of which they placed a flooring of large logs, and set up a tier of smaller ones around the sides of the furnace, within which they put a large quantity of ore. A fire was then made and continued until the mineral was smelted, and run off into troughs made to receive it ; but much of the metal was burnt up, or lost in the ashes. In this manner each family smelted their own mineral, until Mr. Austin erected his furnace. Since that time, they find it more advantageous to sell ther ore to him. It is conjectured that the whole distance between the old mine and Barton's is one continued bed of lead ore.
The time of working the mines is from August to December. After the harvests are over, the inhabitants of Saint Genevieve and other settlements on the Mississippi resort to the mines. The rich employ their negroes, and the poor people work for themselves ; depending on the lead they procure, to furnish necessary articles for their families. The lead is estimated equal to cash for whatever they wish to purchase.
Another mine, called Ranalt's mine, situated on a creek of the same name about six miles north of Barton's, is said to contain very rich ore, but has been worked only a short time. ​On another branch of the Marameg, are what are called the American mines,discovered by a number of Americans, who commenced a settlement near them. The appearance of the ore was very promising; but their title to the land has been contested by a number of Frenchmen, who have taken it from them, and have since made little progress in working the mineral.
La Plate mine is on a branch of the river known by that name, which was also discovered by some Americans. A large quantity of rich ore has been found near the surface, and appearances indicate a great extent of the mineral. Little, however, has yet been done in working of it.
At a few miles distant from La Plate, is Joe's mine. The ore is found in large bodies of several hundred pounds weight, and very pure and solid, but has not been much worked. At a small distance from this is Lany's mine, but the mineral is of little estimation. Several other mines have been discovered on the head waters of the Marameg, more than one hundred miles above Barton's of which very little is yet known. La Motte's mine is on the waters of the St. Francis, about thirty miles S. W. from St. Genevieve. It was discovered and began to be worked about the year 1723. The mineral is very solid, disposed in regular veins of three or four feet in thickness. Five of these veins have been opened, and a part of them worked. They are found about four or five feet below the surface ​and descend in an oblique direction, at an angle of about 45 degrees. They are in low, flat land, and in a very unhealthy situation; nor can the miners go down very deep before they will be interrupted by water. The mineral is very different in its appearance from any other that has been found in this part of the country. It is of a fine, steel grain, and contains a considerable quantity of silver. In smelting of it, a very different process is necessary from that which the French people have employed, in the other mines. The want of skilful workmen, and differently constructed furnaces, has greatly retarded the working of this mineral. The method these people have pursued, has been to give the ore repeated heatings, by laying, it on piles of logs, before it is prepared for smelting, by which great loss is sustained. They rarely get more than thirty or thirty-five per cent.
There is also found, at this mine, a different kind of ore in beds. It is called, by the miners, gravel mineral, being found intermixed with the soil, in small particles, from the size of a pin's head to that of a hickory nut. After being washed, it is put into a furnace, and smelted into slag, and then placed in another furnace, not unlike a miller's hopper, where a partial fluxion is produced. It is said this kind of ore, in the hands of experienced workmen, with a proper furnace, would yield large profits.
​Barton's mine, since the improvements made by Mr. Austin, is calculated to produce lead to the amount of twenty thousand dollars per annum. As the mineral is so easily obtained, the other mines, under proper management, might, doubtless, be rendered exceedingly profitable.
On the borders of the Mississippi, from Saint Genevieve to Cape Girardeau, there are scattered settlements and some considerable villages; but from the Cape to the mouth of the Ohio, there are very few settlers.
The face of the country in Upper Louisiana is somewhat broken, but the soil is generally fertile. "It is elevated and healthy, and well watered, with a variety of large rapid streams, calculated for mills and other water works. From Cape Girardeau, above the mouth of the Ohio, to the Missouri, the land contiguous to the river is generally much higher than on the east side, and in many places very rocky on the shore. Some of the heights exhibit a scene truly picturesque. They rise to a height of at least three hundred feet, faced with a perpendicular lime and free stone, carved into various shapes and figures by the hand of nature, and afford the appearance of a multitude of antique towers. From the tops of these elevations, the land gradually slopes back from the river, without gravel or rock, and is covered with valuable timber. It may be said with truth, that, for fertility of soil, no part of the world exceeds the borders of the Mississippi; ​the land yields an abundance of all the necessaries of life, and almost spontaneously; very little labour being required in the cultivation of the earth. That part of Upper Louisiana, which borders on North Mexico, is one immense prairie; it produes nothing but grass; it is filled with buffaloe, deer, and other kinds of game; the land is represented as too rich for the growth of forest trees. It is pretended that upper Louisiana contains in its bowels many silver and copper mines, and various specimens of both are exhibited. Several trials have been made to ascertain the fact; but the want of skill in the artists has hitherto left the business undecided."
The Mississippi, from the junction, of the Missouri, has a strong current, which cannot be stemmed by the force of wind on sails, without the aid of oars. The width of the river is about one mile and a half, and the water always thick and muddy. A depth of fifteen feet of water can be carried down, in low stages of the river; but immediately below the Ohio it deepens to twenty-five feet, and still increases to sixty feet. These waters are well replenished with fish of different kinds. The largest are the cat fish, the spatula fish, and sturgeon. The cat have been taken weighing more than one hundred pounds, and the spatula, of fifty pounds weight. The smaller fish are the pike, buffaloe, perch, trout, ​gar, mullet, and carp. It may, however, be doubted whether the carp be of the same species of those caught in Europe. It has been said that herring have been taken in these waters. Alligators have not been observed higher up than the Arkansas river. A peculiar kind of fresh water turtle abounds in these rivers. The feet are webbed, and the upper shell remarkably soft. They are from ten to fifteen pounds weight, and considered very delicious.
Fowl, the greater part of the year, are to be seen here in great abundance; such as swan, crane, heron, geese, ducks, and brant. The pelican are sometimes seen, but far down the river, are very numerous. The size and shape of this singular bird resembles the swan, excepting in its monstrous pouch which is placed under its neck and bill. It seems to be an appendage which nature has provided for carrying and preserving its food for its own support and that of its young. The pouch of a pelican killed by Captain Lewis, when ascending the Missouri, was found to hold five gallons of water. They are frequently prepared and used for bags and other purposes.
The forest trees, in Upper Louisiana, are generally similar to those in the State of Ohio and Indiana Territory. Black and white mulberry is found here in much greater plenty, especially on the Missouri. The cotton wood tree grows in great abundance, on the borders of these rivers. It has been supposed to be the same as the ​lombardy poplar, but it is probably a different species. It differs, at least, in the very large quantity of volatile, capillary pappus attached to the seeds. When the seed vessels open, and the seeds come out, it almost fills the air, and, as it descends, covers the bushes and ground, like a fall of light snow. Its appearance very nearly resembles cotton wool, which has doubtless occasioned its trivial name.
The pecan, or Illinois hickery, grow plenty on the Mississippi. In the swamps and lowest flooded land, the cypress of a large size is the principal growth. Where the land is less inundated the swamp and live oak abound, which is highest estimated for ship building. The points at the bends of the river, and ends of islands, are chiefly covered with thickets of small willows. At the confluence of the Ohio with the Mississippi, its width is very little increased, and continues generally about a mile and a half, as far as the Natchez, where it begins to grow somewhat broader. The principal rivers which discharge their waters into the Mississippi, are the Saint Francis, White, Arkansas, and Red river, on the western side, and on the eastern, the Wolf and the Yazoo rivers.
Immediately on passing out of the Ohio into the Mississippi, the current is very sensibly accelerated, but is not so strong as between the Ohio and the Missouri. It is estimated to run at the rate of three and a half to four miles an ​hour; and when the water is high is somewhat increased. The river is exceedingly serpentine, and the islands numerous. Some of the bends in its course down to the line of demarkation, are sudden and large; but between that line and Pointe Coupee, there are several of prodigious magnitude.
In navigating the Mississippi, there is at all times a sufficient depth of water, but many sand bars make off into the river. Frequent strong eddies, and many large currents of water, sitting out of the river, when the water is high, with great rapidity, require the constant and careful attention of the navigator. The navigation is also impeded and endangered, by what are called planters. These are large bodies of trees, with their roots fast at the bottom of the river, and stumps but just above the surface of the water. Another impediment is called sawyers, which are bodies of trees standing in a sloping manner, and moving up and down by the force of the current. A third inconvenience is small wooden islands, composed of drift wood, which, by some means, has been arrested, and immoveably fixed to the bottom; not rising much above the water, are to be seen only at a short distance.
Soon after entering the Mississippi from the Ohio, the whole prospect is so much changed, as to exhibit the appearance of a different country; the climate becomes mild and soft; and the cold of winter seems to have produced very little effect ​on the state of vegetation. The sameness of view along the banks of the river, as far down as Pointe Coupee, a distance of nine hundred miles, is scarcely interrupted, excepting by a few settlements, and some high bluffs, on the eastern side. The land appears to be one continued level, clothed with large timber, and an under growth of cane brakes, and small shrubs.
Opposite the mouth of the Ohio is a small settlement consisting principally of men whose employment is hunting. Five miles below, on the east side, is fort Jefferson, which is evacuated. On the west side, sixty-five miles further down, is New Madrid. This settlement was made by Col. George Morgan, of New Jersey, about the year 1790. It is pleasantly situated, on a rich soil, and was intended for a large town. After building a small number of houses, the people became extremely sickly, and no further progress was made in the settlement. On the same side, thirty-three miles below, in a bend of the river, is a settlement, two miles long, called Little Prairie. This tract of land is exceedingly rich and productive.
The first high lands to be seen on the river are the Chickasaw bluffs, on the eastern side. These bluffs are four in number, the first of which are one hundred and seventy-six miles below the Ohio, and continue about a mile on the river. The second are eleven miles below the first; the third twenty-one miles below the second, and ​extend about three quarters of a mile. Passing these bluffs, the river is extremely crooked. They rise from sixty to one hundred and fifty feet above the surface of the water. The fourth are thirty-three miles below the third, and just above them Wolf river enters from the eastward. The mouth of this river is not large, and contiguous to it is the site of fort Pike. These bluffs continue about two milts. On the lower extremity is fort Pickering, in an eligible and commanding situation, overlooking the whole of this elevated round. When this fort was built, fort Pike was evacuated. It is a Captain's command, who has a detachment stationed at Post Ozark on the Arkansus river. This fort is in the Mississippi Territory, where the United States keep a Factor. Here is a small settlement of whites and Indians; but the most of these people are the half breed, which is a mixture of both of them.
On the western side, about sixty-five miles further down, comes in the river Saint Francis. Its mouth is about two hundred yards wide; the current is gentle; and is navigable for a considerable distance. The head waters of this river are said to be not far distant from Saint Genevieve, in a south westerly direction. At the entrance of the river, stood Kappas Old Fort, built by the French, principally for a magazine of stores and provisions, during their wars with the Chickasaw Indians.
​Six miles below the Saint Francis, is a beautiful natural meadow, called the Big Prairie. At a small distance from the river, in this prairie, is a fine lake, five miles long, and three wide; it abounds with swan: and discharges its water into the river, by a large bayau.
About eighty-five miles below, enters White river on the same side; and about twenty miles further, comes in the Arkansas, which is much larger than White river; and admits of navigation to a great distance. A communication is made between these rivers by an inland channel, which goes out of White river about three miles above its mouth, and about twenty miles up the Arkansas, connecting the waters of the two rivers. The distance of the Post and Village of Ozark, on the Arkansas, is fifty miles from the mouth of that river; but by passing up White river, and through the channel, it is reduced to about thirty miles. On the upper and head waters of the Arkansas, are a large number of Indian villages. Two hundred and ten miles below the Arkansas, the Yazoo river enters on the eastern side, which takes its rise in Georgia. It comes in with a gentle current, and is nearly three hundred yards wide. It abounds with swan, geese, ducks, and other water fowl. On the borders of this river are the much famed lands, purchased of the State of Georgia, and sold to New England speculators, called the Yazoo company. Twelve miles further down are Walnut hills; on the ​highest part of which, fort Henry was built, but has been long evacuated. Below Walnut hills, about twenty-four miles, commences the Palmira settlement, on the same side. This is a very handsome settlement; it contains a large number of, houses; extends eight miles on the river; and is in a flourishing state. The land is very rich, and well improved in the culture of cotton. Further down about thirty miles, is the famous seat of Judge Brain. This house is pleasantly situated. This gentleman possesses a large and handsome farm, which is under excellent culture. He is much respected for his hospitality and politeness to passengers when they call upon him.
The city of Natchez is about one hundred and twenty miles below the Walnut hills. It is situated on an extremely elevated bank, which recedes back from the river, with a very moderate descent. Fronting the river, the bluff is nearly perpendicular, and two hundred feet in height, from the surface of the water. Between the base of the bluff and the river, is a space which is level, about six hundred feet wide; it is used for landing; and is spread over with dwellings, trading houses and shops. From this little village a road is dug out, in a zigzag form, to the summit of the bank. The city is built at some distance from the edge of the precipice, leaving a space for a handsome common. It contains more than three hundred houses, mostly frame, and one story high. Some of those more recently erected are ​two story, and in a handsome style. The houses generally are commodiously constructed for the transacting business, and the free admission of air in the hot season. The prospect from the city is delightful; commanding an extensive view of the river in both directions. There are two printing offices, issuing weekly papers; a post office, receiving a mail once a week; several mercantile houses, and a large number of smaller stores and shops. Great quantities of cotton, indigo, tobacco, and other commodities, are annually shipped from this city, where the accumulation of wealth is pursued with industry and ardour. It is a port of entry, and ships of four hundred tons can come up from Orleans, which is about three hundred miles, without any other obstruction than the strength of the current.
The land in the district of Natchez is generally rich and very productive. It is elevated ground, extending about one hundred and thirty miles on the Mississippi, and from twenty to thirty miles back from the river. Some parts of it are broken, by hills, which favours the raising of horses, neat cattle, sheep, and swine. In the woods and swamps they get their living during the winter. The wool of the sheep is not so good, being more hairy than in the country further north. Frequent changes in the state of the weather are experienced in the winter, but is rarely excessive hot in the summer.
​Cotton is the staple commodity, and is raised in great perfection; it is planted the last of February, or beginning of March. Those who have large plantations derive great profits, and are able, in a short time, to accumulate handsome fortunes. This is the utmost northern limits of the growth of the sugar cane. Some sugar has been made, but this kind of culture does not succeed. Excellent Indian corn is produced with little labour, and may be planted from the first of March to July. Good rye has grown in some ground, but wheat does not succeed. Indigo, hemp, flax, and rice, are cultivated to advantage. Apples and cherries appear not to be adapted to the climate, but plumbs, peaches, figs, and olives, yield their fruit in plenty. Sweet and sour oranges will grow here, but thrive much better further down the river.
About fifty miles below Natchez are Loftus' Heights. Fort Adams is on the side of these heights, about one third of the way up, and on the summit is a strong block house, which overlooks the fort and surrounding country. A Captain's command is stationed at the fort; and four miles east, at Washington Springs, is a handsome cantonment, with quarters for three hundred men. On the land in this vicinity are considerable settlements.
Four miles below Fort Adams, is the line of demarkation, agreed upon between the United States and the Spanish government. Prior to the ​purchase of Louisiana, this line was the boundary of the United States, on the south.
At a small distance below the line, the river turns short and forms a large bend to the westward. At the extremity of this curve, Red river enters the Mississippi, on the west side. This river is large, and extends far into the country in a northwesterly direction. On the banks and vicinity of this river are the thriving and populous settlement of Rapide, Avoyelles, and Natchitoches. This river is used to communicate with the frontiers of New Mexico. Three miles below Red river, on this bend, the bayau Chaffalio runs out with a great rapidity, and is the first large river which leaves the Mississippi, and falls by a separate channel into the Gulf of Mexico. Although there is a sufficient depth of water, the navigation is prevented by a prodigious quantity of drift wood, which has formed a floating bridge across it, of several miles in length. This bridge, in some places, is said to be so compact and firm, that horses and cattle are driven over it. These obstructions are constantly accumulating by the trees and rubbish which are passing into this stream from the Mississippi.
The great bend is continued below the bayau Chaffalio, until it forms a semicircle; the river then tends to the southward some distance, where it winds round to the eastward and northward, and runs back in a direction nearly opposite to its general course, until it comes within ​five or six miles of the line of demarkation, just below which the great bend first commenced. The distance across the land is only five miles, called the Short Cut; but following the course of the river is fifty miles. Here the bend still continues, turning to the eastward and southward, until it comes within one mile and a half of the river in its course to the northward; nearly completing a circle of about thirty miles in circumference. The last of these bends is called Tunica Bend, at the extremity of which is Tunica village, a handsome settlement, extending about twelve miles along the east side of the river.
Point Coupee is about fifteen miles below Tunica village, on the western side, where there was formerly a bend, nearly resembling Tunica Bend, but of smaller size. Here the river, after making a circuit of about twenty miles, returned almost into its own stream. A channel, some years ago, was cut across, and by the washing of the current, the river is become as deep and broad as it is above and below, by which a saving is made of about twenty miles in the distance. The old bend is called Fausse Riviere.
Point Coupee is a rich and populous settlement, extending about twenty miles on the river. The land is laid out in beautiful cotton plantations, producing great crops. Here commences the embankment or Levee, on the western side of the river, which is continued to Orleans, a distance ​of about one hundred and seventy miles. Here the beauty of the Mississippi and prospect of the country exhibit a view so enchantingly delightful, as scarcely to admit of description. On the side of this elevated, artificial bank, is a range of handsome, neatly built houses, appearing like one continued village, as far as the city of Orleans. They are one story, framed buildings, elevated on piles six or eight feet high, and well painted; the paint generally white. The houses for the slaves are mostly placed on straight lines and nicely white-washed. The perpetual verdure of numerous orange trees, intermixed with fig trees surrounding the houses, and planted in groves and orchards near them, highly beautify the prospect; while the grateful fragrance of constant blossoms, and the successive progress to plentiful ripened fruit, charm the eye, and regale the senses.
Baton Rouge, a very fine, flourishing settlement, is about thirty miles below Point Coupee, on the eastern side of the river. Here the high lands terminate in an elevated bluff, thirty or forty feet above the greatest rise of the water in the river. And here commences the embankment or Levee, which is continued, like that on the western side, to Orleans; and a range of houses, ornamented with orange and fig trees, the same distance, perfectly similar to that on the opposite bank. Baton Rouge settlement extends about twenty miles on the river, and to a considerable distance ​back, in an eastern direction. The soil is rich; the cotton plantations are well cultivated, producing plentiful crops.
About fifteen miles further down, on the same side, is the river Iberville, which forms an outlet from the Mississippi when the water is high, but when the river is low, it is dry. The water of this stream runs into the lakes Maurepas and Ponchartrain, and through them to the sea, forming what is called the island of New Orleans. At a point a little below the Iberville, commences an uninterrupted series of plantations, which are continued, upwards of one hundred' miles, to the city of Orleans. These plantations are all cleared in front, and under improvement. Some of them are planted with sugar cane, but the greater part with cotton. They are narrow at the bank, and extend back to the swampy ground, which is incapable of cultivation; the land no where admitting of more than one plantation deep.
At the point below the Iberville, the Mississippi turns short to the westward, forming a large bend. At the extremity of this bend is an outlet, called the bayau Placquemine, on the western side, discharging its waters into the sea. By this bayau is the principal communication with the two populous and rich settlements of Atacapas and Opelousas. These settlements are the most wealthy in Louisiana, abounding in horses and neat cattle; containing a large quantity of good land, capable of being much better improved.
​The bayau la Fourche, on the same side, is about thirty miles further down, following the meanders of the river, and eighty from the city of Orleans. From this bayau the course of the river is nearly south east, and much more direct to the city. Bayau la Fourche is a large outlet, forming a considerable river, which communicates with the sea to the west of the Balise. In old maps it is called La Riviere des Chetamaches. When the water is high it will admit of craft of sixty or seventy tons burden. On its banks are numerous settlements, one plantation deep. The land is rich and gradually descends from the banks to the swamps, which are generally covered with water, and incapable of cultivation. The culture is principally cotton.
From this outlet to the city, the land will admit of only one plantation deep, and is rarely capable of cultivation, more than one mile from the bank of the river. It then becomes low and swampy to the lakes and the sea. The swamps are immense, intersected by creeks and lakes, extending more than one hundred miles to the high lands of Atacapas. But the swamps generally abound with large cypress trees. Great quantities of this timber is sawed by mills, erected on streams formed by cutting sluices through the Levee. These mills are worked with great rapidity nearly half the year. What has been said of the situation, soil, and culture of the plantation below Iberville, on the eastern side of ​the river, will very nearly apply to those which are opposite, on the western side.
The city of New Orleans, is situated in a bend of the river, on the eastern side, in latitude thirty, north, and longitude ninety, west. It was laid out by the French, in the year 1720, extending about a mile on front, from the gate of France, to that of Chapitoulas, and somewhat more than one third of a mile in rear to the rampart. On the upper side an extensive suburb has been added, called Saint Mary. The streets are straight, crossing each other at right angles, but are much too narrow, being only thirty-two French feet in width. In the centre of the front of the city is a large, handsome square, called Place D'armes. The church and town house, built of stone, stand facing the square. The houses in front of the city, and one or two squares back, are mostly brick, and are two stories high; the rest of the houses are chiefly one story, and built of wood. They are elevated about eight feet from the ground, to avoid the inconvenience of water, and the under part generally occupied as cellars. The city has been fortified, but the works, which were originally too deficient to have been defended, have gone to decay, and are now principally removed. There are about one thousand five hundred houses, and between ten. and twelve thousand inhabitants, including Saint Mary's. It is the capital of Louisiana, and the seat of government of the lower territory. Although the ​situation is unhealthy, large accessions to the population are annually made from the United States, and from other parts of the world. It is the principal mart of the western country, where large shipments are made to foreign markets. From its local advantages, it bids fair to become one of our greatest commercial cities.
Opposite to the city, the river is about one mile and a half in breadth, running with a pretty strong current; and yet there is a perceptible rise of the tide; when the water is low it ebbs and flows from a foot to a foot and a half, in perpendicular height. The distance from the city to the sea, at the mouth of the river, is about one hundred and eight miles; and the country low and swampy, containing very little land capable of cultivation. Fifteen miles below the city, and at the head of the English bend, is a settlement, called Saint Bernardo, or Terre aux Bceuf, containing two parishes. The inhabitants are nearly all Spaniards from the Canaries, who improve a narrow strip of land, principally for raising poultry and garden vegetables, for the market at New Orleans. At this place a cantonment was formed, and the late army, under the command of General Wilkinson, was mostly stationed, where a very distressing and mortal sickness prevailed among the troops.
From this settlement to the fort of Plaquemines, forty-eight miles, the land is a morass, almost impassable for man or beast, and always overflowed ​for several months in the year, but filled with cypress and jack brush. From Plaquemines to the Passes is twenty-four miles, where the river branches into three parts. These branches are called Passes, and distinguished, by the east, south, and west Pass, The land in this distance is mostly clothed with jack bushes and tall weeds. From these branches to the sea is about twenty miles, and the land has the appearance of a vastly extended marsh, destitute of trees or shrubs, but covered with long grass.
The East Pass, at the distance of six miles, divides into two branches. The eastern is called Pass a la Loutre, and the other Belize. On the Belize is a small black house, called by the same name, and near it are a number of houses, occupied by pilots. Large ships, bound up the river, enter it by this Pass; there being the greatest depth of water on the bar. At the entrance of this Pass about sixteen feet of water may be carried over the bar. The bars lie without the mouths of the Passes, are very narrow, and immediately after passing them the water deepens to six or seven fathoms. The South Pass, which is directly in front of Mississippi, has been almost entirely choaked with drift wood, but has about ten feet of water on the bar. The West Pass, which is the longest and narrowest, and used to be the passage by which large ships entered the river, had some years ago eighteen feet, but is ​now said to be reduced to only eight feet of water on the bar.
The productions of Louisiana are cotton, sugar, rum, indigo, rice, corn, furs, and peltry. It also affords lumber, tar, pitch, lead, horses, and cattle. The fertility of the soil admits of great increase of these and an additional supply of many other articles. The culture of the sugar cane, which has already become considerable, may doubtless be carried to a very great extent. At present, cotton is the largest and most profitable production. Indigo is on the decline. Further north than the Iberville, the sugar cane is liable to be injured by the cold, and the crops rendered uncertain; but all the lands southward, susceptible of improvement, and adapted to that kind of culture, will produce the cane in good perfection. In some parts it is already became a staple commodity. Some planters employ about one quarter of their plantations in the production of sugar cane, and the remainder in pasture, and raising provisions. It is estimated that one hundred and eighty feet square will produce, on an average, twelve hundred weight of sugar, and fifty gallons of rum. Calculating on this data, it is presumed the lands under present cultivation, suited to this culture, would produce about fifty thousand hogsheads of sugar, and twenty-four thousand puncheons of rum. It is believed by some, that as a full and regular supply of provisions may be easily obtained from above, on moderate terms, ​one half the arable land might be planted with cane, to advantage. It is likewise an undoubted fact, that large portions of vacant land are to be found, well adapted to the culture of the cane. The following quantities of sugar, brown, clayed, and refined, were imported into the United States from Louisiana and the Floridas, viz. in the year 1799—773,542 pounds; in the year 1800—1,560,887 pounds; in the year 1801—967,619 pounds, and in the year 1802—1,576,993 pounds. The quantity produced in the succeeding years has probably been considerably increased.