# The Selkirk Mountains/Chapter 9

CHAPTER IX.
A NOTE ON THE VEGETATION OF THE SELKIRKS
(Drawn chiefly from the Monograph by Prof. John Macoun, M. A. "F. R. S. C, in "The Selkirk Range.")
We do not really know trees, says Ruskin, until we see them growing in multitudes in the contracted valleys of high mountains, climbing up the steep slopes, gathering into pleasant companies on the high meadows or "gliding in grave processions over the heavenward ridges." For it is here that their resources are developed, "rooting themselves in inhospitable rocks, stooping to look into the ravines, hiding from the search of glacier-winds, reaching forth to the rays of rare sunshine, crowding down together to drink at sweetest streams." Then he shows to every lover of forest landscape how great is the advantage of mountain over plain. And who that watches the mountain, has not been conscious of it. "Add to this charm of redundance that of clearer visibility,—tree after tree being constantly shown in successive height, one behind another, instead of mere tops and flanks of masses, as in the plains; and the forms of multitudes of them continually defined against the clear sky, near and above or against white clouds entangled among their branches, instead of being confused in dimness of distance."
These forests of the Selkirks grow with a tropical compactness in the valleys; and, unafraid of glacier winds, crowd upward in serried ranks to meet perpetual shows. Here grows the Giant Cedar (Thuya gigantea) often ten feet in diameter; the Cottonwood (Populus balsamea) also a large tree; Englemann's Spruce (Picea Englemannii) and other of the same species; two species of Hemlock, (Tsuya Mertensiana) common on the west coast and known by its small cones, and (Tsyga Paltoniana) a rare and beautiful tree "more graceful in habit than the other and with larger cones;" also, Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga Douglasii) the familiar tree growing throughout the whole mountain system. Other trees are two firs, Abies subal pina and amabilis, beautiful trees, the last growing with the Tsuga Pattouiana and Pinus albicaulis' to altitudes over 6000 feet. Also, at timber-line in the Columbia Valley, grow splendid specimens of Lyall's Larch (Larix Lyallii) the most interesting tree of the mountain forests, and the most lovable.
The shrubbery and undergrowth are exceedingly rank in the valleys and on the lower slopes. Devil's Club (Panax horridus) or prickly aralia, is the lion in the way of every man who would blaze a trail through Selkirk valley's. "Imagine," say's Mr. Wheeler, "a bare stick an inch thick and from five to eight feet high with a spread of tropical-looking palmated leaves at the top, set off by a bunch of bright red berries. The entire surface of the stick is covered by sharp, fine spines and the canes grow so close together that sometimes it a impossible to force a way through them without using an axe. The points of the spines break off in the flesh, causing it to fester and become very painful." Surveyors and prospectors reserved their most picturesque maledictions for this beautiful evil shrub. The unknowing tenderfoot, grasping its so apparent friendly aid to steady his steps on fallen trees, does not ever forget his surprise. Skunk Cabbage (Lysichilon Kamlschalcense) is another tropical-looking plant with large ​bright green leaves and an offensive odor. It is the staple food of the bears in early spring. Alders, Willows and young Birch, bent by the snow avalanches and the weight of soft snow from the heavy precipitation, lie about breast high and obstruct the ascent. When wet they are very slippery and dangerous along the line of descent. Professor Macoun warns the unwary scrambler in a single sentence: "It is best not to investigate the shrubs of the ravines too closely."
Of flowering shrubs and plants within the Big Bead of the Columbia the Professor found over 1500 species. It is only possible to name a few outstanding ones for beauty of bloom, using his own text chiefly. The White flowered Rhododendron (Rhododendron albiflorium), mountain heather (Bryanthus empetriformis) with pink flowers and Bryanthus glamlulifera with yellowish flowers; and the low-growing Cassiope tetragona with little white bells, often called heather, are beautiful and prolific in l>loom. Larger flowering shrubs bearing berries include mountain elder (Sambucus melanocarpa) with bunches of white flowers and black fruit; honeysuckle (Lonicera Douglasii) with purplish flowers and large, juicy black berries; and many species of blueberries (Vaccinium) that furnish fruit for man and beast. Currants and goose-berries are occasionally found but raspberries grow and bear fruit plentifully on the sunny slopes.
The procession of flowers begins as soon as the snow melts in the lower altitudes, and continues throughout summer, many following the melting snows upward. A flower named Spring Beauty (Claytonia sessilifolia) was found in flower on the site of Revelstoke in May, and at Glacier in August of the same year, the difference in altitude being 2.500 feet. The Dog-tooth Violet ('Erythronium giganteum) sometimes called Avalanche Lily, a delicately lovely yellow flower, was found in prolific bloom at Sicamous in early April, and by the edge of the Asulkan Glacier in late August. In this case the difference in altitude would be nearer 4000 feet. It is exceedingly interesting to follow the flowers throughout the season, as they follow their summer upward by degrees from the level of the railway to the alplands above timber-line. Bordering the same brooklets coming from the snow are many species of beautiful spring flowers blooming from early June to late August, according to altitude. Two species of Monkey Flower are noted: the large Yellow-flowered Mimulus luteus and the taller, hardier Mimulus Lewisii, both growing near water. Wandering one August in the Gold Range above Griffin Lake at an altitude of 7000 feet. Professor Macoun came to a murmuring little brook bordered with this flower. Following its course, by and by he noticed that the music stopped, and upon examination found a ledge of rock only a few inches high protruding into the stream and upon its extreme edge a large bunch of Mimulus growing. On this the water flowed and pausing, divided into two streamlets, part falling down into Eagle River and on to the ocean by the Thompson and the Fraser; and part joining the Columbia to seek the sea by that single great river flowing south.
Professor Macoun enumerates with their scientific names and with descriptive touches many flowers according to tneir families. The Crowfoot family is found in all altitudes. There are two species of Columbine, Aquilegia breuistylis (Blue-flowered) and Aquilegia flavescens (red or yellow). Anemones are in three or more species, the Western ​Alpine Anemone (Anemone occidentalis) is conspicuous in leaf and flower and fruit.
The American Globe flower (Trollius laxus) borders the brooks near the snow; these with the Saxifrages, Violets and other beautiful flowers grow in the ascending gardens throughout the summer. It is common to find the same species in seed, blossom and bud within 100 yards of altitude. One can pass through Winter, Spring, Summer and Fall in the descent of a few hundred feet. This is one of the many charms of botany in high mountains.
The Rose family takes "a first place" either in flower or in fruit. The Strawberry (Fragaria) and Raspberry (Rubus) grow profusely and are of fine flavor. Strawberries grow so thickly in places in the Columbia and Beaver Valleys that a pailful can be speedily gathered. Between Golden and Donald, about 500 feet above the river, are many such places. The Evening Primrose family is represented by numerous species as the Fireweed (Epilobium augustifolium), and the low-growing species with broad leaves and large purple flowers (Epilobium latifolium) found on gravel bars. Another species (Epilobium luteum) with large yellow flowers is found in the swamps around Rogers Pass, a rare and beautiful species.
The Composites, blooming lavishly in July and August, include Asters, Golden Rods, Ragworts, Everlastings, Thistles, Arnicas, Flea-banes. Everlasting (Antennaria) is the nearest to Edelweiss that grows in the Canadian Mountains. Doubtless if that rare and famous flower of the lofty Swiss altitudes were transplanted to the Selkirks it would take root.
Both the Monkey Flower and the Painted Cup (Castilleia) belong to the Figwort family. Altogether there are six species of the Monkey Flower, four being less conspicuous and showing only to the knowing botanist. Orchids there are, but not in profusion. The Moccasin Flower or Ladies' Slipper (Cypripedium) grows in three species, the most common being the Northern Ladies' Slipper (Cypripedium passerinum) .
The Fern family is well represented in the Selkirks by the following genera; Botrychium, Adlantum, Aspidium, Asplenium, Cryptogramma, Cystopteris, Onoclea, Osmunda, Pellaea, Phegopteris, Polypodium, Pteris, Woodsia. Also two ferns, very rare in Canada, were found by Professor Macoun, growing on Mt. Avalanche.
Prof. John Macoun, Dominion Naturalist
A LIST OF THE MOST CONSPICUOUS PLANTS FOUND AMONGST THE SELKIRK MOUNTAINS
"Very beautiful are the flowers that bloom on the hill-slopes and in the valleys of the Selkirk Range. Wet-loving plants, such as the large yellow Musk (Mimulus Langsdorfli), the magenta Vater Willow-herb (Epilobium latifolium), the bright Snow Buttercup (Ranunculus Eschscholtzii) are among the most noticeable flowers bordering the mountain brooks, and are found in company with the largest of the white Globe-flowers (Trollius laxus'), the tall, scarlet and yellow Columbines (Aquilegia formosa), and clumps of Grass of Parnassiis (Parnasia montanensis, P. fimbriata).
Beside the trails which thread the forests grow many kinds of Arnica (Arnica cordifolia, A. Chamissonis, A. alpina), their splendid golden rays sowing sunshine on the ground; intergreens (Pryola asarifolia, P. chlorantha, P. secunda, P. minor), Spring Beauties (Claytonia sessilifolia, C. parviflora) peep out at the edge of the melting snows, and Leptarrhena pyrolifolia rears its starry blossoms and later its handsome red seed-vessels on many a bank carpeted with Bunchberry (Cornus Canadensis), Wild Parsley (Ligusticum apiifolium), Alpine Spiraea (Spiraea pectinata). True Mitre-wort ('Mitella Breweri, False Mitre-wort (Tiarella unifoliata) and Tellima (Tellima grandiflora).
Tall wands of Twisted-stalk (Streptopus amplexifolius) and False Solomon's Seal (Smilacina amplexicaulis) are mingled with the sweet-Smelling White Heliotrope (Valeriana sitchensis), and the magnificent pleated leaves of the False Hellebore (Veralrum viride); while flowering bushes of Goat's Beard (Spiraea Aruncus), Western Mountain Ash (Pyrus sambucifolia), Red-berried Elder (Samhucus racemosa), Woolly Labrador Tea (Ledum latifolium), Red-stemmed Dogwood (Cornus stolonifera), Devil's Club (Fatsia horrida), Bristly Gooseberry (Rides setosum), Red Currant (Rides rubrum), Smooth Menziesia (Menzicsia slabella), and that exquisite Waxen-belled shrub, Rhododendron albigorum, flourish beneath the shade of pine and hemlock. Blueberries are abundant, both Vaccinium Ovalifolium, a species having sweet berries covered with a rich purplish bloom, and Vaccinium membranaceum, whose berries have no bloom, being found in great quantities on the beds of snow-slides.
As one climbs to higher altitudes, the flowers grow more rare, but infinitely more precious. Here the large Beard-tongue, (Penstemon Menziesii), fresh-dipped in the purple vats of Tyre, is found in masses on the ledges of the cliffs; frail Saxifrages (Saxifrngia Lyallii, S. Nutkana), nestle in the nooks between the stones; blue-eyed Speedwells (Veronica alpina, V. serpylllifolia) are set like jewels on the barren breast of the moraines, and Heath (Cassiope Merlensiana) and False Heathers (Bryanthus enpetrifornia, B. glanduliflorus) creep over and cover the rocks with their white and red bells, being found in abundance near tree-line. The lovely rose-pink False Heather (Bryanlfuis intermedius) first discovered in the Selkirks in 1901 by Mrs. Henshaw, is a more rare species. Among the last blossoms seen as one approaches the line of perpetual snow are the Dwarf Blue-bells (Campanida arctica), a large species growing singly on slender stems, yellow Aplopappus Brandegei, and the mats of the purple flower-starred Moss Campion Silene Acaulis), which is found at the immense elevation of 10,000 feet. ​
| Yellow Adder's Tongue (Erythronium gignatium) | White flowered Rhododendron (Rhododendron albiflorum) |
​Pale yellow Adder's Tongues (Erythronium giganteum) grow in great profusion in the alpine meadows, together with Indian Paint Brushes and Bright Painted-cups (Castelleia scplentrionalis, C. miniata, C. Bradburii) of every hue—scarlet, carmine, orange, yellow and white—Wood Betony (Pedicularis bracteosa) and Queen-cups (Clintonia unifiora).
Among the other conspicuous plants are the Everlastings (Antennaria racemosa, A. Lanata), St. John's Wort (Hypericum Scouleri), blue and yellow Violets (Viola cognata, B. glabella), Yellow Willow-herb (Epilobium luieum), Creeping Raspberry (Rubus pedatus), Green Orchis (Habenaria bracteata, H. obtusata, H. hyperborea), Long-beaked Pedicularis (Pedicularis Jroenlandica), Cow-parsnip (Heracleum lanatum). Western Anemone (Anemone occidentalis), Alpine Anemone (Anemone Drummondii), and those two natives of many lands, the Northern Twin Flower (Linriaea borealis) and the Yarrow (Achillea lanulosa).
Big blue spikes of Phacelia (Phacilia sericea) and Mountain Larkspur (Dephinium Brownii), mark the path of the sun across many an upland garden when Nature has sown with a lavish hand bronze-tasselled Thalictrums, white and yellow Marsh Marigolds (Caltha leptosepala, C. palustris), primrose colored Columbines (Acquilegia flavescens), Potentillas, whose names are legion, and among which Potentilla dissicta is the most conspicuous, Gold-rods of which Solidago multiradiata var. Scopulorum is the most prolific. Ragworts (Senccio), Coltsfoots (Petasiies), Hawkweeds (Hieracium), Hawksbeards (Crepis) and the pink-petalled Arctic Raspberry (Rubus arcticus); while to wander over an alpine field of Asters (Aster Fremonti, A. Engelmanni) and Flea-banes (Erigeron salsuginosus, E. Acris) is to tread upon a carpet close woven of purple and gold.
Other plants there are which flourish in the Selkirk Range less conspicuous than the foregoing, yet each in its own way very lovely, such as the Arabis, Arenaria, Draba, Stellaria, Cerastium, Trienlalis, Artemisia, Dicentra, Brassica, and many more which it is impossible even to catalogue here."
Julia W. Henshaw.
BEASTS, BIRDS AND FISH OF THE SELKIRKS.
(Mainly from a Monograph by John Macoun, M.A., F.R.S C, Dominion Naturalist and Botanist.)
Beasts.
Since the coming of the railway with its loud intermittent noises and the consequent invasion of the multitude, the big game of the mountains have retreated to less accessible recesses and heights. When Professor Macoun made his official expedition of 1885, black bears (Ursus Americana) and grizzly (Ursus ferox) were numerous in Rogers Pass and vicinity. The hunter must now seek this valuable mammal in remoter regions and with due heed to the game laws albeit it will be noted by reference to extracts elsewhere in this book, that there is no limit fixed to the number of bears a hunter may bag. The black bear is fond of the roots of skunk cabbage (Lysichiton Kamatschateense) and in Spring he may be found feeding in the valleys where it grows. In summer he frequents the higher slopes where the huckleberry shrub (Vaccinium) is his staple nourishment. The Caribou (Ruiigifer caribou) and Mountain Goat (Haplocerus mountains) roam on their feeding grounds in the alpine meadows above timber line. Adjoining the Upper Columbia, there are certain high pastures frequented by both Goat and Sheep (Ovis montana). Caribou abound in the mountains east of the Beaver Valley, and in the Gold Range, and are found in many of the Selkirk Ranges. These animals delight in the high meadows above the limber where they feed in Summer and Autumn. Within Glacier Park and within all the Government Reserves, hunting any animal or bird whatsoever is forbidden.
The Mule Deer (Cervus macrotis), plentiful on the lower slopes of the Columbia, were once so trustful that anyone might come near them. Now, says Professor Macoun, "it is pitiful to see the change" when the sight of a man sends them flying in fear.
Coming to the smaller mammals, there is the larger Marmot or Whistler (Arctomys Columbianus) whose habitat is about or above timber line among the broken rocks at the base of the high slopes. Among all the denizens of the hills, the Whistlers are best known to visitors who are often startled on the higher trails and alplands by their piercing whistle. Professor Macoun used to answer thinking it a call from his own kind. It sounds exactly like that shrill far-penetrating whistle contrived with various aids by the human boy. The Whistler sleeps all winter in his nest under the rocks. In summer he sits in the sun on a warm rock or wallows in a shallow pool near by. He is an interesting little animal well worth watching, but the watcher must take care to be very still, and had better be on the slopes above. Shortly in the silence "the mountain will be alive with noise and movement," says Professor Macoun.
Two smaller species of marmots are Say's Squirrel (Spermophilus lateralis) the size of a large chipmunk, its head larger and its legs shorter than those of an ordinary squirrel; and Parry's Marmot (Spermophilus Parryii), smaller and of a deep yellowish grey where the other ha« a broad white stripe bordered with brownish black. The Little Chief Hare (Lagomys princeps) is a remarkable little ​animal living among the loose rocks at the bottoms of slopes up to 7,000 feet and more. Its habitat may be traced by little heaps of herbs and flowers known as "Pika's Hay." In his book, "Among the Selkirk Glaciers," Mr. Spotswood Creen tells of finding these little bouquets of cut flowers at intervals on a mountain side. Observing the first collection, his companion said "Some one has been up this way," and they were puzzled until finding more of them near the burrows of the little beast which Mr. Green names "Sewelell." It is an interesting creature which shares with the wild bee a propriety in the mountain flowers. Professor Macoun with a scientist's scrupulous care for truth, says that although called a hare and resembling the young of that species, the Little Chief Hare is quite different in structure.
The yellow-haired porcupine (Erethizon expixanthus) is sometimes found in the Selkirks, also squirrels; and higher up, chipmunks. The Mountain Eat (Ncatoma Drummondii) abounds; and there are tales to be told concerning his depredations. As the wolverine to the trapper, so is the mountain rat to the traveller. Like the porcupine, he will eat leather and anything of that sort which he can bite, but there is something human in his kleptomania. Potatoes and all edibles that can be neatly hoarded he will carry off by generous instalments; and anything shiny, such as tinware, knives, razors—and revolvers, when he can lay claws upon such valuable booty.
Trappers' game ought to be mentioned, those small animals who»e pelts are of Commerce. In the Columbia and Beaver Valleys trappers once did well with martin, fisher and beaver. Of all fur-bearing animals in British North America, the beaver bears part in romance and history. Was not this precious little beast the raison d'etre for the most adventurous and romantic monopoly in history, the Honorable the Hudson's Bay Company?
Mink and Ermine (the weasel in its winter coat) are in the Selkirks; and muskrat, which of late years has increased in value. Professor Macoun recommends Glacier House to naturalists who may from that base make leisurely trips up the mountain slopes to study the fauna of the region.
Birds.
Unlike the wild animals, birds do not flee the people. Rather, they follow human settlement and nest in the haunts of men. Even the game-birds fear the carnivorous animals more than human creatures. During the Summer Meet in 1908. of the Alpine Club on Roger's Pass, a member identified a number of small birds. There were the solitary thrush singing his bell-like song; the yellow-warbler (canary), robin, yellow-breasted chat, white-crowned sparrow; the junco, a little grey bird with black head and white breast; the magpie with his Scotch burr, the barn-swallow nesting under the eaves at Glacier House; and, on the highest alps of Mt. Abbott, the humming bird. Also, on Roger's Pass were identified—unseen like Shelley's skylark—the vesper-sparrow, a sweet plaintive singer singing all night; and the song-sparrow, a joyous singer and the loveliest heard in the vicinity.
Black Bear
The Hoary Marmot or Whistler
​and about the cliff-swallow, another species common to the mountains, birds that adapt themselves to new conditions—to wit deserting the river-cliffs and building under the eaves of the water-tanks.
A more interesting bird of the mountains is the Water Ousel or Dipper (Cinclus mexicanus) a stout little fellow of a grayish slate colour, making his home on the margin of the brooks and cataracts. The nest is usually built on a ledge behind a small sheet of water, its outside dripping wet and looking like a lump of growing moss. The entrance is on the side away from the water, and the inside is dry and warm.
Professor Macoun emphasizes the game-birds found by him in the mountains. There are six species of grouse plentiful in their various native localities and altitudes. The white-tailed Ptarmigan (Lagopus leucurus) lives entirely among the summits in summer, retiring in winter to the trees at timber-line.
Immediately below is the habitat of Franklin's Grouse (Dendragapus franklinii), the "fool-hen" of the prospector and so called because it sits complacently on a branch until killed by a stick or stone. The name is now, and for the same reason, applied to another species, Richardson's Grouse (Dendragapus richardsonii). Much ammunition has been saved to mountain travellers by these stupid birds, and they make good eating. A third species is the Dusky or Sooty Grouse (Dendragapus fuliginuosus) whose tail is tipped with a band of ashy grey. Richardson's Grouse is all of one dusky colour which gives it the popular name, Blue Grouse. The male of Franklin's Grouse has a black tail sometimes tipped with pure white. It is a beautiful bird to see and ought to be killed only by compulsion of hunger. Ruffed Grouse (Bonasa umbellus togata) occur around the base of the mountains and nest in great numbers throughout the burnt timber along the Columbia.
There are various species of ducks. Two that nest in numbers are the "Saw-Bills"—the Hooded Merganser (Lophodytes cucullatus) and the American Merganser (Merganser Amercicanus). Another species is the Harlequin Duck (Histrionicus histrionicus). Of Geese there were, before the railway came, breeding grounds along the Columbia near Golden, but they soon abandoned the locality. Wilson's Snipe (Gallinago delicata), as late as 1890, were breeding near the water tank at Revelstoke, and are still a common species.
Eagles are not common to these mountains, though they are occasionally seen. The Bald-headed Eagle (Haliaetus leucoccphalus) can be identified by the tarsus (shank) being naked all round its lower part and to the base of the toes; the Golden Eagle (Aquiia chrysactos) by its tarsus thickly feathered to the base of the toes.
Crows (Corrvs americanus) are found in large numbers; Ravens (Corus corax principalis) rarely, and then only in pairs or singly. A species, called in Canada Clarke's Crow (Picirorvus columbianus), is often confounded with the Rocky Mountain Whiskey Jack (Perissorcus canadensis capitalis) a much smaller bird. Both haunt camps and eat garbage, but the former is a nutcracker and lives in the conifers well up on the mountains. The Black-headed Jay (Cyanncitta stelleri annectens) is a beautiful bird closely related to Steller's Jay of the Pacific Coast, and easily distinguished from it by a whitish spot over the eye.
Fish.
Gairdner's Trout (Salmo gairdneri) also named "Steel Head," a black-spotted fish akin to the Rainbow Trout of the Rockies, is a gamey fish found in the Columbia and all its tributaries. The Red-spotted Trout, Dolly Varden Trout or Bull Trout (Salvalinus malma) is the real Brook Trout of the mountains from the British Columbia boundary to Alaska. It is akin to the Brook Trout east, and is found in weight from a few ounces to over twelve pounds at the mouths of some northern rivers. It is the delight of anglers who enjoy catching fish that rise quickly to the fly but are hard to kill.
The Great Lake Trout (Cristiromer namaycush) is found in the large lakes, and the Fraser River Salmon (Oncorhyncus nerka) in the Columbia River all around the Big Bend north. In the Arrow Lakes small fish of the latter species have been caught in July. Other kinds of fish there are, but these are those which fishermen find zest in catching, albeit they may agree with Isaac Walton, that most gentle, most beloved Angler of all time, that "God never made a more calm recreation than angling."
The Assembly Room, Club House