# Reconstruction/Reconstruction/Drywall

The process by which drywall is installed.

## Materials

* Types of Drywall
* Gypsum Board
** Used for walls and ceilings.
** Size
*** Length x Height: 4'x8', 4'x10', 4'x12', or larger
*** Width: 1/2" or 5/8"
* Greenboard
** Typically used in wet areas, including walls around bathtub and shower.
** Note: Greenboard is NOT water-proof.
* Concrete Backerboard
** Marketed under the names "Durock" and "Wonderboard".
** Used as backing for ceramic tile.
** Also ideal for wet areas such as shower walls and bathtub surround.
* Drywall Screws
** 1-1/4" Screws for 1/2" Drywall
** 1-5/8" Screws for 5/8" Drywall

## Tools

* Utility Knife
* Drywall T-Square
* Tape Measure
* Drywall Saw
* Edge Sander (rasp)
* Contractor's Pencil
* Chalk line
* Drywall Jack
* Screw Gun

## Measuring and Cutting
### Procedure

* Measure the dimensions of the space in which drywall is being installed
* Mark these dimensions on a full sheet of drywall
* Extend marks with T-square
* Mark locations of studs on drywall (studs are typically 16" on center)
* Snap chalk line on drywall to extend stud marks
* Score drywall along edge marks
* Snap drywall along score
* Score back of drywall along the break. Separate piece to be used from remainder.
* If the piece covers an outlet, switch, or other fixture, complete the following steps:
** Measure distance from intended edge of sheet to bottom left hand corner and top right hand corner of fixture
** Mark these points on drywall
** Use T-square to extend point 1 right and up and point 2 left and down.
** Score these lines, using a utility knife.
** Re-score lines several times in order to make a thick cut.
** Gently punch out hole.

## Wall Installation
### Procedure
#### Ceiling

* Prop a full sheet butted against a corner perpendicular to the length of the ceiling joists.
* Drive Screws
** Drive one screw in each corner of piece.
** Drive row of screws (one per stud using chalk lines) on each length edge. Drive additional row every foot (if the sheet is 4' wide and 8' long there should be 4 rows of 6 screws each).
* Prop another full sheet butted against wall and first sheet perpendicular to length of the ceiling joists. Repeat step 2.
* Continue to prop and hang full sheets butted against wall and previous sheet as space permits.
* Follow measuring and cutting procedure for finishing ceiling with pieces smaller than full sheets.

#### Top Sheets

* Prop full sheet butted against the ceiling and adjacent wall horizontally.
* Drive Screws
** Drive one screw in each corner of piece.
** Drive row of screws (one per stud using chalk lines) on each length edge and middle of the sheet (length-wise). Drive additional screws every foot along each width edge. (if the sheet is 4' wide and 8' long there should be 2 rows of 6 screws each along each length edge, one row of 4 screws along middle and 2 additional screws in each width edge).
* Prop full sheet butted against ceiling and previous sheet. Repeat step 2.
* Continue to prop and hang full sheets butted against ceiling as space permits (each wall should be considered as separate spaces).
* Follow measuring and cutting procedure for finishing wall with pieces smaller than full sheets.
* Repeat for all walls.

#### Bottom Sheets

* Prop full sheet butted against top sheet and adjacent wall horizontally.
* Drive Screws
** Drive one screw in each corner of piece.
** Drive row of screws (one per stud using chalk lines) on each length edge and middle of the sheet (length-wise). Drive additional screws every foot along each width edge. (if the sheet is 4' wide and 8' long there should be 2 rows of 6 screws each along each length edge, one row of 4 screws along middle and 2 additional screws in each width edge).
* Prop full sheet butted against top sheet and previous sheet. Repeat step 2.
* Continue to prop and hang full sheets butted against top sheets as space permits (each wall should be considered as separate spaces).
* Follow measuring and cutting procedure for finishing wall with pieces smaller than full sheets.

## Floating and Sanding
### Materials

* Joint Compound
* Joint Tape and/or Mesh Tape
* Corner Bead
* Water

### Tool List

* Putty Knife
** Sizes: 4", 8", 12"
* Tin Snips
* Joint Compound Trough
* Sanding Sponge Block
* Hand Sander w/ Sanding Screens (various grit available)

### Suggested PPE

* N95 Dust Mask (for sanding)
* Goggles (optional for sanding)

### Puttying Procedure

* Outside Corner (two walls meet to form a convex corner)
* Measure length of corner
* Using tin snips, cut corner bead to match length of corner.
* Align bead with corner, flaps along each wall.
* Gently hammer bead into place with rubber mallet.
* Secure in place with screws through the holes manufactured into the bead. Space these screws about 5" apart.
NOTE: The screws should be sunk as far in as possible without breaking through the metal corner bead
* Run a dry knife up and down the corner bead
* If the Knife rubs against the screw or the outside edge of the corner bead sink the screws more or place more screws as needed
* Apply heavy narrow layer of compound along bead with 4" knife
* Place one edge of 12" knife perpendicular to edge of corner bead at the top of the corner. Drag knife at a 45% angle along length of bead.
NOTE: Maintaining the same angle the entire length of the corner bead helps keep the mud as smooth as possible
* Continue to add compound using 4" knife and repeat step 7 until a uniform layer is achieved. Bead edge should be free of excess compound and wall edge should be feathered (not pronounced).
* Allow to dry, lightly sand knife marks, bead edge and wall edge to achieve smooth finish.
* Repeat procedure at least once, widening the layer with each application.

### Everything below is under construction

* Inside Corner
** Apply a thin coat of compound to the corner area. Make this wide enough to extend past the width of the tape
** Using a corner knife, embed paper tape in compound.
*** Start at the top with the edge of the tape and run it down the seam.
*** Make sure that half is on each wall.
*** Use only one piece of tape for the whole corner.
** Cover the compound on one side at a time, until tape is not visible on either side.
* Regular Seams
** Measure the length of tape needed by holding one end of the tape at one end of the seam and pulling the roll along the seam until the other end of the seam is met.
** Fold the tape vertical and tear along the fold to insure a straight edge on the tape will meet another seam or the corner
** using a 4 inch knife place a thin layer of mud the width of the knife starting at one end of the seam and ending approximately 18 inches (the length from one screw on the seam to another)from where you started making sure that one-half the knife is on each side of the seam as you place the mud on the wall
** Taking the tape already cut to length place one end of the tape at the edge of the mud that was already placed on the wall
** With your fingers smooth the tape onto the wall covering the mud already placed on the wall to insure a tight smooth fit to the wall
** Pull a dry knife along the tape holding it as parallel to the wall as possible but still putting constant pressure on the tape
NOTE: If there are bubbles visible between the wall and the tape pull that area pf tape back off the wall and resmooth it as needed
* Nail Dimples and Other Blemishes
** Apply a dab of compound to the dimple or blemish , holding the knife at 45 degrees to the wall.
** Level the surface with the knife, holding it at 90 degrees to the wall. This will create a smooth layer.
* Additional Coats
** Allow the initial coat 24 hours to completely dry.
** Lightly sand all edges and large ridges.
** Re-putty all areas, feathering out to 6".
** Wait for drying, re-sand, and apply a final coat of putty, feathering out to 12".
** After allowing time to dry, lightly sand over every area with compound until the wall is smooth.