OpenLLM-France/wikimedia huggingface dataset:
# Horn/Technique

* Horn
* Introduction
* General Information
* Playing Technique
* Posture and Use of Body
* Right Hand Usage
* Breathing and Moving Air
* Embouchure and Facial Musculature
* Articulation and Tonguing
* Playing Dynamics
* Mutes
* Reading Music
* Transposing Music
* Miscellaneous Techniques
* Playing with Other Musicians
* Repertoire
* Glossary
* Partial List of Authors
# Horn/Technique/Miscellaneous

* Horn
* Introduction
* General Information
* Playing Technique
* Posture and Use of Body
* Right Hand Usage
* Breathing and Moving Air
* Embouchure and Facial Musculature
* Articulation and Tonguing
* Playing Dynamics
* Mutes
* Reading Music
* Transposing Music
* Miscellaneous Techniques
* Playing with Other Musicians
* Repertoire
* Glossary
* Partial List of Authors

## Inexpensive stopped muting

Many horn players own stopping mutes for when the music calls for them. If ever you are playing stopped passages, these come in handy. However, mutes can be expensive. A similar device can be created inexpensively.
Materials:
* a styrofoam cup
* a pencil or pen
* a straw (optional)
* a pair of scissors (optional)
* Puncture the bottom of the cup with the pen or pencil.
* Optionally, insert the straw into the hole. Cutting the length of the straw with scissors to desired length is recommended.
* Move the straw in and out of the cup while the "mute" is in the horn and you are playing. Tune the mute by adjusting the straw with an electronic tuner.
This is not a perfect substitute for a real stopping mute, but works when in a pinch.

## Water emptying

As a consequence of a hornist blowing warm, moist air through metal pipes, a great deal of water condenses and comes together in liquid form inside the instrument. When too much water has condensed, airflow is obstructed and one can hear unmusical flops and pops while playing. The water must then be removed.
Hornists usually use gravity to their advantage when removing water. Often, the horn can be rotated so that the water can pour out of the lead pipe.
While every horn is different, there is one trick for emptying water out of the valve slides that is universal across all horns.
* Hold the horn so that the bell is above everything else and the valves are pointed straight to the ground.
* Depress all three valves. Hold it this way for at least two seconds.
* Lift off the first two valves while keeping the third down.
* Rotate the horn back to its normal position and keep rotating until the valves are no longer parallel to the ground.
* Remove the third-valve pipes. All the water was moved into these pipes and can be dumped quickly.

## An Easy High C

This works on most horns:
* Play a C in the treble staff, using the F side of the horn.
* Press the first valve lever partially down.
* Continue to push it further down until the note jumps up an octave on its own.
While learning this one, remember that your lips are not buzzing the high C, they are buzzing the C in the staff the whole time.

## Whistle Through Your Horn

This one is quite useless:
* Remove the tubing from one of your tuning slides.
* Push down the valves in such a way that the airstream would go through the tubing you removed.
* With your mouth in the mouthpiece, form an embouchure that is like whistling and also is like a recorder's mouthpiece.
* Blow lightly.
# Horn/Technique/Dynamics

* Horn
* Introduction
* General Information
* Playing Technique
* Posture and Use of Body
* Right Hand Usage
* Breathing and Moving Air
* Embouchure and Facial Musculature
* Articulation and Tonguing
* Playing Dynamics
* Mutes
* Reading Music
* Transposing Music
* Miscellaneous Techniques
* Playing with Other Musicians
* Repertoire
* Glossary
* Partial List of Authors
Dynamics
# Horn/Technique/Reading

* Horn
* Introduction
* General Information
* Playing Technique
* Posture and Use of Body
* Right Hand Usage
* Breathing and Moving Air
* Embouchure and Facial Musculature
* Articulation and Tonguing
* Playing Dynamics
* Mutes
* Reading Music
* Transposing Music
* Miscellaneous Techniques
* Playing with Other Musicians
* Repertoire
* Glossary
* Partial List of Authors
Reading Music
# Horn/Technique/Posture

* Horn
* Introduction
* General Information
* Playing Technique
* Posture and Use of Body
* Right Hand Usage
* Breathing and Moving Air
* Embouchure and Facial Musculature
* Articulation and Tonguing
* Playing Dynamics
* Mutes
* Reading Music
* Transposing Music
* Miscellaneous Techniques
* Playing with Other Musicians
* Repertoire
* Glossary
* Partial List of Authors
Correct posture is important to comfortably producing a good tone on the horn, as with any wind instrument. Using a poor posture can result in wavering pitch, inadequate air support, pinched or hollow sound, and various other playing difficulties.
While playing, the player's back and neck must always be in line. It is recommended that hornists (and most wind instrumentalists) sit with their backs off the back of the chair and feet flat on the floor for a slight "leaning forward" feeling. The most important thing to remember is that the posture must be as upright as possible without causing any excess tension; the entire body must be as relaxed as possible to avoid tension creeping into the sound.
Only the tips of the fingers should be placed on the valve levers. This allows for faster depression of valves, allowing the player to change pitches properly.
Correct posture will allow one to adjust dynamics more correctly and produce a better sound.
# Horticulture/Putting a Garden Plan into Action

First things first
    Double-checking the measurements
    Initial preparation
       Laying out
       Removal of existing plants
          Sod
          Weedy areas
          Trees and Shrubs
    Soil work
    Getting the materials ready
       Purchasing
       Storing and holding
    Setting up the big day
# Horticulture/Pulling Weeds

Often the easiest and most effective way to control weeds is to simply pull them out by the root and dispose of them.

## Getting to know the weeds

The first step in removing weeds from a garden is knowing which plants are weeds, and which are not. Inexperienced gardeners should always have an identification guide handy to help with this, or use on-line resources such as the Bloom Clock on Wikiversity. Once identified, further reading will let the gardener know what kind of root system the weeds have, how they set seed, and whether they are safe to compost.

## Start pulling

Once the weeds are identified, the gardener should start pulling them out. If soil consitions are not conducive to getting the full root out (e.g., too dry or frozen), it's generally better to either change the conditions first (e.g., by watering) or just coming back another time, since most weeds will regrow from the root if only the tops are removed.
Many weeds will simply break off at the ground if pulled using a quick, jerking motion, so pull slowly but firmly to ease the whole plant out of the ground. If a root will not come out, either use a tool such as a hand cultivator or mattock to grub it out, or for large weeds (particularly woody ones), just cut it below ground level using loppers.

## Dispose of quickly and properly

Never leave weeds in piles, either in the garden bed or on an adjacent lawn or other surface, since in many cases the seeds will continue to mature and disperse even after the weeds have been pulled. Most weeds can be composted, though if seeds are present heat composting may be required. Some weeds should simply be burned or sent to the landfill if they are particularly invasive.
# Horticulture/Pycnanthemum

Mountain mints :
| Genus: | Pycnanthemum |
| Family: | Lamiaceae |
| Type: | Herbaceous perennials |
| Pest issues: | Rare |
| Disease issues: | Rare |
| Bloom season: | Summer through early autumn. |
| Weediness: | Agressive spreader |
| Pollination: | Insects |
| Vegetative Spread: | By stolons |
| Toxicity and edibility: | Edible |
Pycnanthemum, or Mountain Mint, is a genus of plants in the mint family, Lamiaceae. Most species are very strongly scented and pungent, and are used in cooking and in making herbal tea. All plants in this genus are native to North America.

## Description

Spreading perennial herbs with opposite leaves, square stems, and head-like inflorescences and stems that are square in cross-section. Individual flowers are small and white.

## Growing conditions

Well drained soils, full sun to medium shade.

## Species

* P. albescens
* P. beadlei
* P. californicum
* P. clinopodioides
* P. curvipes
* P. flexuosum
* P. floridanum
* P. incanum
* P. loomisii
* P. monotrichum
* P. montanum
* P. muticum
* P. nudum
* P. pycnanthemoides
* P. setosum
* P. tenuifolium
* P. torrei
* P. verticillatum
* P. virginianum

## Uses

Grown as a culinary herb, but also as a very high quality nectar source for bees and beneficial insects.

## Maintenance

Keep under control by digging out the spreading parts in early spring.

## Propagation

Division.

## Harvesting

Cut stems at the base, keep leaves on the stem until ready to use.

## Pests and diseases

Rusts

## References

* Ann Fowler Rhoads and Timothy A. Block (2000). The Plants of Pennsylvania: An Illustrated Manual. Anna Anisko, illustrator. Morris Arboretum, University of Pennsylvania Press. pp. 478–480. {{cite book}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |coauthors= (help)
* Christopher Brickell and Judith D. Zuk (1997). The American Horticultural Society A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants. DK Publishing. p. 850. {{cite book}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |coauthors= (help)
* Staff of the L. H. Bailey Hortorium (1976). Hortus Third: A Concise Dictionary of Plants Cultivated in the United States and Canada. Cornell University Press. pp. 929–930. {{cite book}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |coauthors= (help)
# Horticulture/Pyracantha

Firethorns :
| Genus: | Pyracantha |
| Family: | Rosaceae |
Firethorn (Pyracantha) is a genus of thorny evergreen large shrubs in the family Rosaceae, subfamily Maloideae. They are native from southeast Europe east to southeast Asia, and are closely related to Cotoneaster, but have serrated leaf margins and numerous thorns (Cotoneasters are thornless).

## Description

The plants reach up to 6 m tall. The seven species have white flowers and either red, orange, or yellow berries (more correctly pomes). The flowers are produced during late spring and early summer; the pomes develop from late summer, and mature in late autumn.

## Varieties
### Species

* Pyracantha angustifolia. Southwest China.
* Pyracantha atalantoides. Southern China.
* Pyracantha coccinea (Scarlet firethorn). Italy east to Asia Minor.
* Pyracantha crenatoserrata. Central China.
* Pyracantha crenulata. Himalaya.
* Pyracantha koidzumii. Taiwan.
* Pyracantha rogersiana. Yunnan.

### Selected hybrids and cultivars

* 'America'
* 'Golden Charmer'
* 'Golden Dome'
* 'Lalandei'
* 'Mohave'
* 'Navajo'
* 'Orange Glow'
* 'Rosy Mantle'
* 'Santa Cruz'
* 'Teton'
* 'Watereri'

## Uses

Pyracanthas are valuable ornamental plants, grown in gardens for their decorative flowers and fruit, often very densely borne. Their dense thorny structure makes them particularly valued in situations where an impenetrable barrier is required. The aesthetic characteristics, in conjunction with their home security qualities, makes them a considerable alternative to artificial fences and walls They are also a good shrub for a wildlife garden, providing dense cover for roosting and nesting birds, summer flowers for bees and an abundance of berries as a food source. Pyracantha berries are not poisonous as commonly thought; although they are very bitter, they are edible when cooked and are sometimes made into jelly.
* Pyracantha pomes
* Pyracantha leaf
* A Pyracantha grown as an espalier on a wall
* Berries
* Scarlet Firethorn
* Pyracantha coccinea
* Pyracantha "Orange Charmer"

## References

* ↑ Firethorn, an article from hHome Security Guru
* ↑ Yard Protection: Your First Line of Defense, an article from Home Security Guru
* ↑ http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/trees/pyracan.html
# Horticulture/Ranunculus ficaria

Lesser Celandine :
| Binomial: | Ranunculus ficaria |
| Type: | Perennial (spring ephemeral) |
| Conditions: | Sun to dense shade, prefers damp and rich soils |
| Seed Dispersal: | Via foot traffic or water |
| Germination Time: | Early spring |
| Vegetative Spread: | Tubers or bulbils |
Lesser celandine, (Ranunculus ficaria, syns. Ficaria grandiflora, Ficaria verna), is a low-growing perennial native to Eurasia, but introduced into other parts of the world where it has escaped from cultivation.

## Description

Lesser Celandine is a low-growing, hairless perennial plant, with fleshy dark green, heart-shaped leaves. It is a spring ephemeral, meaning that the foliage dies down after seeds are set in early summer.
The flowers are yellow, turning white as they age. Ranunculus ficaria exists in both diploid and tetraploid forms which are very similar in appearance. However, the tetraploid type prefer more shady locations and frequently develops bulbils at the base of the stalk. These two variants are sometimes referred to as distinct sub-species, R. ficaria ficaria and R. ficaria bulbifer respectively. The plant is found throughout Europe and west Asia and is now introduced in North America. It prefers bare, damp ground and in the UK it is often a persistent garden weed.

## Ecology

In many parts of the northern United States and Canada, lesser celandine is an invasive weed. It can be a difficult weed to eradicate both in gardens and in woodlands or meadows.

## Uses

According to Gilbert White, a diarist writing around 1800 in the Hampshire village of Selborne, the plants came out on February 21st, but it is more commonly reported to flower from March until May, and is sometimes called the "spring messenger" as a consequence. It is sometimes planted (or at least tolerated) for the early flowers and the glossy foliage.
The plant used to be known as Pilewort, as it was used to treat hemorrhoids. Supposedly the knobbly tubers of the plant resemble piles, and according to the Doctrine of signatures this resemblance suggests that pilewort could be used to cure piles. The German vernacular Scharbockskraut (Scurvywort) derives from the use of the early leaves, which are high in vitamin C, against scurvy.

## Control

* Mowing: Mowing is ineffective
* Cultivation: Cultivation often simply serves to spread the roots around, creating more plants.
* Pulling: Pulling must be done with care, since the plant can grow back from small root fragments.
* Flame: Flame is ineffective, as the plant stores energy in the roots.
* Barriers: Barriers such as newspaper are effective.
* Grazing: Toxic to most livestock
* Disposal: Roots should only be composted in hot piles.

## References

* ↑ Swearingen, J., K. Reshetiloff, B. Slattery, and S. Zwicker (2002). "Lesser Celandine". Plant Invaders of Mid-Atlantic Natural Areas. National Park Service and U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, Washington, D.C.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
# Horticulture/Requests

If you would like to see a topic addressed in Horticulture, please add your request below:
# Horticulture/Raised Beds

Raised beds are garden beds which are raised above the level of the surrounding soil. They are used both in gardens and on small farms as a way of making gardens easy to work on, and as a way of preserving soil structure, since raised beds aren't meant to be walked on.
Raised beds are usually contained with a hard border such as logs, timber, cinder blocks, or even concrete. They are usually designed to be from 3 to 5 feet wide, which allows every part of the bed to be within arms reach for planting, maintenance, and harvesting.
Raised beds are particularly useful when there are drainage issues, stumps, or other problems with the soil.
Raised beds can be created at any time of year, including winter.

## Designing beds

Beds should not be too wide to reach across from either side
Inter-rows will need to be maintained. For small interrows mulches or gravel can be used. If interrows are to be maintained as turf, leave plenty of room for the mower, accounting for subsidence.
Logs should be as long as possible, at least 6 inches diameter.
While dumping compost, buttress the siding logs with short logs or stone. Eventually use wedges.
When possible, build the beds when the soil is frozen or very dry to avoid rutting.
Add enough soil to leave a fairly high mound, as the compost will settle over time.
When the logs rot away, either replace them or return the area to tilled soil for a time.

## See also

Making Raised Beds with Tractors
# Horticulture/Quadraspidiotus perniciosus

San Jose Scale :
| Binomial: | Quadraspidiotus perniciosus |
| Order: | Hemiptera |
| Metamorphosis: | Simple |
| Damaging stages: | Nymphs |
| Vulnerable stages: | Crawler |
San Jose scale is a pest of both orchards and ornamental plants. The insect is originally from China, but introduced in North America in the late 1900s as an invasive species.

## Description

Circular hard scales, generally in great numbers. Adult males are winged, females remain under the scale.

## Symptoms and Signs

Severe infestations can kill the host plant if not treated.

## Host plants

* Asclepias
* Buxus
* Celtis
* Cornus
* Crataegus
* Cydonia
* Fagus
* Gleditsia
* Juglans
* Ligustrum
* Lonicera
* Maclura
* Malus
* Morus (Mulberry)
* Pachysandra
* Photinia
* Prunus
* Ribes
* Robinia
* Rosa
* Rhamnus
* Sassafras
* Sorbus
* Syringa (Lilac)
* Thuja (Arborvitae)
* Tilia
* Viburnum

## Control

* Trapping: Electrical tape (sticky side out) around a branch can detect the presence of crawlers.
* Physical removal: Prune out infested branches
* Organic pesticides: Horticultural Oil (dormant spray), Neem Oil
* Predators and parasites: Wasps including Encarsia perniciosi and Aphytis spp.

## References

* Virginia Tech
* West Virginia University
* Ohio State University
# False Friends of the Slavist/Map čelověkъ

Semasiological map for *čelověkъ
R. человек • Blr. чалавек • Ukr. чоловік • Pol. człowiek • Ka. człowiek • LSo. cłowjek • USo. čłowjek • Cz. člověk • Slk. človek • Sln. človek • Cr. čovjek • Bo. čovjek • Sb. čovek • Bg. човек •
| *čelověkъ | Meanings: ‘man (male)’ ‘husband’ ‘one (prn)’ ‘human’   no such word (For areas without shading there is no information yet.) |
| *čelověkъ | Meanings | Meanings | Meanings | Meanings |
| *čelověkъ | man (male) | husband | one (prn) | human |
| R. человек | | | | + |
| Blr. чалавек | | | + | + |
| Ukr. чоловік | + | + | | |
| Pol. człowiek | + | | + | + |
| Ka. człowiek | | | + | + |
| LSo. cłowjek | + | + | | |
| USo. čłowjek | + | | | |
| Cz. člověk | + | | + | + |
| Slk. človek | + | | + | + |
| Sln. človek | | | | + |
| Cr. čovjek | | | | + |
| Bo. čovjek | | | | + |
| Sb. čovek | | | | + |
| Bg. човек | | | | + |
| < Index of semasiological maps | < False Friends of the Slavist Homepage |
# False Friends of the Slavist/Map čitati

Semasiological map for *čitati
R. читать • Blr. чытаць • Ukr. читати • Pol. czytać • Ka. czëtac • LSo. cytaś • USo. čitać • Slk. čítať • Sln. čitati • Cr. čitati • Bo. čitati • Sb. čitati • Bg. чета •
| *čitati | Meanings: ‘to read’ ‘to read aloud (Br), to read out loud (Am)’   no such word (For areas without shading there is no information yet.) |
| *čitati | Meanings | Meanings |
| *čitati | to read | to read aloud (Br), to read out loud (Am) |
| R. читать | + | + |
| Blr. чытаць | + | + |
| Ukr. читати | + | + |
| Pol. czytać | + | |
| Ka. czëtac | + | + |
| LSo. cytaś | + | |
| USo. čitać | + | |
| Slk. čítať | + | + |
| Sln. čitati | + | |
| Cr. čitati | + | |
| Bo. čitati | + | |
| Sb. čitati | + | |
| Bg. чета | + | + |
| < Index of semasiological maps | < False Friends of the Slavist Homepage |
# False Friends of the Slavist/Map čuti

Semasiological map for *čǫti
R. чуять • Blr. чуць • Ukr. чути • Pol. czuć • Ka. czëc • Bg. чуя •
| *čǫti | Meanings: ‘to feel’ ‘to smell’ ‘to hear’   no such word (For areas without shading there is no information yet.) |
| *čǫti | Meanings | Meanings | Meanings |
| *čǫti | to feel | to smell | to hear |
| R. чуять | + | + | |
| Blr. чуць | | | + |
| Ukr. чути | | | + |
| Pol. czuć | + | | |
| Ka. czëc | + | + | + |
| Bg. чуя | | | + |
| < Index of semasiological maps | < False Friends of the Slavist Homepage |
# False Friends of the Slavist/Map čьrstvъ

Semasiological map for *čьrstvъ
R. чёрствый • Blr. чэрствы • Ukr. черствий • Pol. czerstwy • Cz. čerstvý • Slk. čerstvý • Cr. čvrst • Bo. čvrst • Sb. чврст • Bg. чевръст •
| *čьrstvъ | Meanings: ‘stale’ ‘fresh’ ‘sturdy’ ‘nimble’   no such word (For areas without shading there is no information yet.) |
| *čьrstvъ | Meanings | Meanings | Meanings |
| *čьrstvъ | stale | fresh | sturdy | nimble |
| R. чёрствый | + | | | |
| Blr. чэрствы | + | | | |
| Ukr. черствий | + | | | |
| Pol. czerstwy | + | | | |
| Cz. čerstvý | | + | | |
| Slk. čerstvý | | + | | |
| Cr. čvrst | | | + | |
| Bo. čvrst | | | + | |
| Sb. чврст | | | + | |
| Bg. чевръст | | | | + |
| < Index of semasiological maps | < False Friends of the Slavist Homepage |
# False Friends of the Slavist/Map žito

Semasiological map for
R. жито • Blr. жытa • Ukr. жито • Pol. żyto • Ka. żëto • Cz. žito • Slk. žito • Sln. žito • Bg. жито •
* Meanings:
* ‘rye’
* ‘wheat’
* ‘grain, cereals, (Br.) corn’
* no such word
* (For areas without shading there is no information yet.)
| | Meanings |
| | rye | wheat | grain, cereals, (Br.) corn |
| R. жито | | | + |
| Blr. жытa | + | | |
| Ukr. жито | + | | |
| Pol. żyto | + | | |
| Ka. żëto | + | | |
| Cz. žito | + | | |
| Slk. žito | + | + | |
| Sln. žito | | | + |
| Bg. жито | | + | |
| < Index of semasiological maps | < False Friends of the Slavist Homepage |
# False Friends of the Slavist/Map životъ

Semasiological map for *životъ
R. живот • Blr. жывот • Ukr. живіт • Pol. żywot • Ka. żëwòt • LSo. žywot • USo. žiwot • Cz. život • Slk. život • Sln. život • Cr. život • Bo. život • Sb. живот • Mk. живот • Bg. живот •
| File:FFmap-ka-2 .gif *životъ | Meanings: ‘belly, body’ ‘life’   no such word (For areas without shading there is no information yet.) |
| *životъ | Meanings | Meanings |
| *životъ | belly, body | life |
| R. живот | + | + |
| Blr. жывот | + | |
| Ukr. живіт | + | |
| Pol. żywot | + | + |
| Ka. żëwòt | | + |
| LSo. žywot | + | |
| USo. žiwot | + | |
| Cz. život | | + |
| Slk. život | | + |
| Sln. život | + | |
| Cr. život | | + |
| Bo. život | | + |
| Sb. живот | | + |
| Mk. живот | | + |
| Bg. живот | | + |
| < Index of semasiological maps | < False Friends of the Slavist Homepage |