OpenLLM-France/wikimedia huggingface dataset:
# Automobile Repair

If you're trying to repair your automobile, then it's very likely that something is wrong in the first place! The first step is diagnosing the problem. Once you figure out what's wrong, the next step is to remedy the problem. This may or may not involve replacing a part. The final step is putting everything back together.
* Introduction
* Before you buy
* Diagnosing the problem
* Steps to take before beginning any auto repair task
* Why a Wikibook? And a list of reliable resources

## Routine Maintenance Tasks

* Tire pressure
* Checking the oil level
* Spark plugs
* Oil change
* Radiator flush and fill
* Research
* Transmission fluid change
* Battery Checking
* Brake fluid change
* Optimizing Fuel Economy

## Understanding Modern Cars

* Understanding warning light system
* What you can expect to learn and fix
* The tire system
* The engine system
* The ignition system
* The starting system
* The electrical system
* The cooling system
* The suspension system
* The emissions system
* The fuel system
* The battery and charging systems
* The brake system
* The transmission
* Wheel alignment
* "Smart" car systems
* Electrical and Hybrid Cars

## Cars By Make

* Acura
* AMC
* Audi
* BMW
* Buick
* Cadillac
* Chevrolet
* Chrysler
* Citroen
* Daihatsu
* DeLorean
* Dodge
* Fiat
* Ford
* Geo
* GMC
* Honda
* Hyundai
* Jaguar
* Jeep
* Kia
* Land Rover
* Lexus
* Lincoln
* Mercedes-Benz
* Mercury
* Mini
* Mitsubishi
* Nissan
* Oldsmobile
* Opel
* Plymouth
* Pontiac
* Porsche
* Proton
* Renault
* Saab
* Saturn
* Scion
* Subaru
* Tesla
* Toyota
* Volkswagen
* Volvo

## Repair jobs to do yourself

There are many jobs which you can do yourself and save money, including:
* Replacing the fan belt
* Replacing the alternator on a 99 Mercury Cougar
* Engine Additives
* Jump start
* Flat tire
# Automobile Repair/BMW

* 1 Series
* 3 Series
* 5 Series
* 6 Series
* 7 Series
# Advanced Structural Analysis

The aim of this work is to present a rich discussion of the various aspects of modern structural analysis, ranging from elementary continuum mechanics theory to advanced analysis using open-source software. The text is geared towards practical engineering problems and attempts to cover all essential analysis considerations and techniques present in the daily work of the experienced professional.
The content is divided in two main parts: Part I - Theory, and Part II - Application. The idea is that Part I - Theory provides the foundation for the analysis described in Part II - Application. Ideally, all the reasoning described in Part II - Application should stem from and refer to statements in Part I - Theory.
The work may refer to any high-quality open-source software, such as Code Aster and wxMaxima. Commercial tools are not incorporated unless related information is of exceptional interest and no open-source alternative exists.

## Chapters

* Motivation
* Participate
* Layout
* Part I - Theory
* Part II - Application
* References
* The Contributors
# Advanced Structural Analysis/Layout

* Introduction
* Strategy
* Map

# Introduction

It is evident that the framework of information laid out by Advanced Structural Analysis is complex and vast. Therefore, the clarity of the book's structure is vital to its writers and readers. Some fundamental guidelines are outlined in the Strategy section whereas the precise architecture is illustrated in the Map section.
# Advanced Structural Analysis/Layout/Strategy

* High Level
* Low Level

# High Level

Advanced Structural Analysis contains two main sections: Part I - Theory and Part II - Application. The idea is that Part I - Theory provides the foundation for the analysis described in Part II - Application. Ideally, all the reasoning described in Part II - Application should stem from and refer to statements in Part I - Theory.
Furthermore, the global structure should, if possible, comply with the following concepts:
* "All-encompassing" - all matters related to structural analysis should be covered as thoroughly as possible
* Non-repetitive - a non-redundant layout where efforts are focused and not repeated
* Stringent - the topics should be organized in a logical sequence where the foundation for each section is established previous sections
* Categorized - natural groupings of content
* Transparent - the branch-like architecture should be intuitively understood and easy to browse
* Concise - a minimal amount of excessive material
* Maintainable - an untangled structure where things can be added without major structural changes

# Low Level
## Part I - Theory

Specific principles, key-points and recommendations should be highlighted like the following example:
# Acoustics/Generation and Propagation of Thunder

Thunder is the sound made by lightning. Depending on the nature of the lightning and distance of the listener, thunder can range from a sharp, loud crack to a long, low rumble (brontide). The sudden increase in pressure and temperature from lightning produces rapid expansion of the air surrounding and within a bolt of lightning. In turn, this expansion of air creates a sonic shock wave which produces the sound of thunder, often referred to as a clap, crack, or peal of thunder. The distance of the lightning can be calculated by the listener depending on when the sound is heard vs. the vision of the lightning strike.

## Etymology

The d in Modern English thunder (from earlier Old English þunor) is epenthetic, and is now found as well in Modern Dutch donder (cp Middle Dutch donre, and Old Norse þorr, Old Frisian þuner, Old High German donar descended from Proto-Germanic *þunraz). In Latin the term was tonare "to thunder". The name of the Germanic god Thor comes from the Old Norse word for thunder.
NOTE:The text above is taken from the wikipedia entry.
# Acoustics/How to contribute

This is a short tutorial, in order to explain to the new users how to quickly add an article to the Acoustics Wikibook.

## Before contributing

The first thing to do is to define the subject of your article. Please make sure that your subject is not already present on this Wikibook. You will also have to check the table of contents of the main page to determine the category (Fundamentals, Applications, ...) in which you want your article to appear. If you need to, it's also possible to create a new category.

## How do I create my page ?

You will have to edit the main page of the Acoustics Wikibook (check the tabs on the top of the page). Then add a line in the chosen category, following the example of the existing links. Click "save page" and go back to the main page. You are to see the broken (red) link you've just created. Just click on it, and here you are. You've just created your first page, which is, for the moment, blank.

## How do I create my page title ?

The first step is to download this model, which is used for every single page's title.
You'll have to open it with the painting software of your choice (Microsoft Paint for example), then write your article's title on the model. Save it and upload it (see the upload section of Wikibooks). Add it to your page via the tool boxes.

## How do I add images to my page ?

You'll have to check the copyrights status of your file, then upload it (only generic domains). Add it to your page with the tool boxes, or by following an existing page's example.
# Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Fire/Fuzz sticks

A fuzz stick is a small piece of wood which has had slices cut in the sides to create small shavings. Ideally, the shavings should remain attached to the stick, but if they are accidentally removed, they can still be used. Because the shavings are thin, they are easy to ignite. Because they are attached, they in turn ignite the larger host stick.
To make a fuzz stick safely, choose a piece of dry wood, preferably a dry, dead stick from an evergreen tree. The stick should be about the size of a pencil, or perhaps a little larger. Place one end of the stick against a firm surface, such as a log or a rock, hold the upper end with your left hand, and hold the knife in the right. Carefully slice into the stick with a downward, diagonal motion, maintaining even pressure. Stop before the knife reaches the center of the stick. Take another slice a little higher up, and repeat until the stick is covered with the slices of "fuzz." Turn the stick over and make more shavings on the other side. This is far easier to do with a sharp knife and with a soft wood such a pine, fir, spruce or hemlock. Be sure that you are always slicing away from your fingers. Think at all times about where the knife blade will go if the shaving breaks off, or the knife slips. Make sure that your hand, foot, leg, companions, etc. are not in the path!
Make several fuzz sticks and use them as the first layer of kindling, positioning them atop the tinder. In some cases, the fuzz sticks themselves can be used as tinder.
# Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Fire/Teepee

The teepee fire is probably the most recognized campfire. It is somewhat difficult to lay however, as getting the logs to balance against one another can be tricky. Sometimes the log pile will topple and upset the kindling and tinder beneath, and you'll have to start again from scratch. If necessary, you can lash them together at the top with twine (but don't use a synthetic rope such as nylon or polypropylene). Once laid, the teepee fire is very easy to light, as convection will take the flames right to the fuel.
Adding fuel to a teepee fire can also be challenging as the balance problem is still there, but it is now complicated by the presence of heat. For this reason, teepee fires often devolve into a chaotic heap.
# Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Fire/Trench

The Trench Fire is a simple way to build a cooking fire. By digging a rectangular trench to build a fire in, you can rest a cooking grate, or a pot on the dirt on either side of the trench. If the shallow part of the trench faces the wind, air will be directred into the fire, making it burn hotly.
# Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Fire/Hunters

The hunter's fire is a cooking fire. The logs on top are spaced close enough together such that a pot, pan, or Dutch oven can be placed on them. Try to lay it as level as possible.
# Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Fire/Flint and steel

Using flint and steel to light a fire is somewhat difficult. In order to use a flint and steel, you take a hard, sharp-edged rock in one hand and the steel striker in the other. The "flint" can be any hard, sharp rock, such as flint, jasper, or quartz. The striker can be any piece of high-carbon steel, such as a knife blade, though strikers made specifically for this purpose work much better.
The other essential item needed for starting a fire with flint and steel is a char cloth. A char cloth is a piece of partially burned cotton cloth. It can be made by cutting pieces of cotton into 1-inch squares, placing them in small a metal container (such as an Altoids tin), and placing that in a fire. If the cotton cannot get much oxygen, it will char rather than burn. Remove the tin from the fire when it quits smoking.
Before you begin, lay your fire so that when you ignite the tinder with the flint and steel, you can place it in the fire and get it going. Once the tinder is lit, it's too late to lay the fire, as the tinder will burn for only half a minute or so.
Place the char cloth on the flint even with a sharp edge, but not covering it. Hold the striker loosely in the right hand (assuming you are right-handed) and strike it against the flint (held in the other hand) as if you were trying to shave the striker with the rock. Flint is harder than steel, so it will indeed shave a piece of steel off the striker. When this piece of red-hot steel is shaved from the striker, it will fly off and hopefully land on the char cloth. You may need to repeat this several times before a spark does actually land on the char cloth, but when it does, the char cloth will catch the spark and begin to glow itself. You then take the glowing char cloth and set it against your tinder. Raw cotton and oakum work especially well as tinder. Blow on it gently until you get a flame. If you don't blow hard enough, the ember will not ignite the tinder. If you blow too hard, you will burn through the tinder without igniting it. Once it flames up, place it in the fire you have already laid.
# Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Fire/Log Cabin

The log cabin is easy to lay, and it is fairly stable as well. It is laid very much like a log cabin (hence the name). It is somewhat difficult to light though, as the fuel is off to the side of the tinder and kindling. When it burns, it falls in on itself, confining itself to the fire ring. It is also easy to add more fuel and maintain a neat orderly fire.
# Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Fire/Reflector

This fire can be used for baking, though it is not as efficient as a reflector oven (which is has a metallic reflecting surface and often surrounds the item. The fire itself can be of any other form, and is placed in front of the reflector. The item to be baked is placed between the reflector and the fire. This fire is also good for getting oneself warm. The reflector can also be a large rock. If you sit (or sleep) between the reflector and the fire, the side of you facing the fire will be warmed directly, while the reflector throws heat to the opposite side. Very toasty.
If making the reflector from logs, the vertical members should be driven deeply into the ground to support the weight of the horizontal members. You can also use rocks to support them.
# Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Fire/Metal match

The term metal match, or 'firesteel' has become synonymous with so called 'artificial flints' which are metal rods of varying size composed of ferrocerium, an alloy of iron and mischmetal. Mischmetal is an alloy primarily of cerium that will generate sparks when struck. Iron is added to improve the strength of the rods. Small shavings are torn off the rod with either a supplied metal scraper, a piece of hacksaw blade, or, commonly, the back of a knife ground at a suitable angle. These shavings then ignite at high temperatures, and they are much more effective than their historical equivalent.
While it takes practice and properly prepared tinder to create a sustained fire, the modern firesteel is considered by survival instructors and serious outdoorspeople to be one of the most reliable ways of making fire in severe conditions. Two good examples of firesteel are made by Light My Fire and Blastmatch. The sparks produced by these products are extremely hot, 3000 C°, and easily light toilet paper or small pieces of wood or commercial tinder products.
Traditionally a flint and steel were used; however, the flint was not the important part. With a proper striker, you can get sparks using any hard, non-porous rock that has a sharp edge, even petrified wood. The spark comes from chipping small pieces of steel off the striker; finely divided metals ignite immediately in air, with steel burning at yellow-white heat.
Charpaper can be used as an intermediate step between the striking and the tinder. Charpaper is traditionally made from cotton that has been processed into charcoal. You can make charpaper by taking several patches of cotton denim (from an old pair of jeans for example) and laying them one atop another inside a small tin (such as the ones in which Altoids are packaged). Drill a 3 mm diameter hole in the lid of the tin. Then throw it into a campfire. It should smoke, but not ignite, as not enough oxygen can get into the tin. Once it stops smoking, you can carefully remove it from the fire and let it cool. You should have several charpapers inside, ready for the next fire you light.
When a spark comes into contact with charpaper, it makes the charpaper glow, but the charpaper will not ignite. After the charpaper glows, you put it against your tender and blow. This works much better than attempting to get a spark to stay on the tinder. Igniting the tinder from the glowing charpaper takes practice. Too much oxygen and the tinder is consumed without bursting into flame; not enough oxygen, and it simply doesn't light. But if you get it just right, it will burst into flames rather suddenly. Be ready for this, as you will then be holding a burning wad of tinder in your hands. Place it in your pre-laid fire immediately.
# Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Fire/Star

The advantage of this fire is that the logs can be of any length, avoiding the need to cut them up. As the ends of the logs burn, they are pushed into the fire. The fire is lit at the center of the star. If the logs are propped up on the fire ring, gravity will feed them in as they burn.
# Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Nature/Fungi/Magnaporthe grisea

Magnaporthe grisea, also commonly known as rice blast fungus, rice rotten neck, rice seedling blight, blast of rice, oval leaf spot of graminea, pitting disease, ryegrass blast, and johnson spot, is a plant-pathogenic fungus that causes an important disease affecting rice. It can also infect a number of other agriculturally important cereals including wheat, rye, barley, and pearl millet causing diseases called blast disease or blight disease. M. grisea causes economically significant crop losses annually, each year it is estimated to destroy enough rice to feed more than 60 million people. The fungus is known to occur in 85 countries worldwide.
# Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Nature/Fungi/Rust infection

Rust occurs on many species of plant, but in most cases any one species of rust can only infect one species of plant. The following describes the infection process of asexual spores.

## Spore Attachment

When a rust spore lands on a plant surface it needs to attach to it, or it would simply be washed off. First, weak, hydrophobic interactions are formed between the spore and the plant cell surface. Then unknown signals cause the production of a substance called adhesin. This will stick the spore irreversibly to the plant surface. Once attached, the spore will germinate.

## Germ Tube Elongation

Rust fungi penetrate the plant by using the natural pores on the underside of a leaf, but first the growing germ tube must locate it. The germ tube grows in a random manner until it reaches a ridge. At this point it will start to grow perpendicular to the ridge, greatly increasing its chances of locating a pore (called a stomata).

## Appresorium Formation

The stomata is the site of a structure called an appresorium that functions to both firmly anchor the fungus and aid in penetration. From the appresorium an infection peg grows down into the plant and between the leaf cells.

## The Haustoria

Rust fungi gain their nutrients from living cells. This requires a specialized penetration of the fungi into a living plant cell called a haustoria. This develops from a haustorial mother cell. The plant cell membrane surrounds the main haustorial body. An iron- and phosphorus-rich neck band bridges the plant and fungal membranes and acts as a seal preventing the escape of nutrients into the plant. The rust fungi will then continue to grow and invade the plant until it is ready to make new spores.
# Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Nature/Fungi/Smut

The smuts are fungi, mostly Ustilaginomycetes (of the class Teliomycetae, subphylum Basidiomycota), that cause plant disease.
Smuts affect grasses, notably including cereal crops such as maize. They initially attack the plant's reproductive system, forming galls which darken and burst, releasing fungal spores which infect other plants nearby.
A smut infestation is controlled by removing and destroying the infected plants. In Agriculture, this process is known as destruction of the initial inoculum.
There are several types of smut including:
* Corn smut
* Sugarcane smut
* Loose smut
# Section B Introduction

This section will ask you questions that you will have to find programming solutions to. The past exams have always provided a strict program specification in the form of variable names and pseudocode. You should be able to interpret pseudocode, structured english, structure charts, stepwise refinement tables and decision tables. Any of these techniques could be used to communicate an algorithm to be coded.

## Practice questions

Obviously all the past papers from AQA have good section B questions that you should attempt. Here are some around this year's theme...

### Question 1

Question 1
Answer:
Another question...
Answer:
# A-level Computing 2009/AQA/Problem Solving, Programming, Data Representation and Practical Exercise/Skeleton code/2015 Exam

The exam questions are very hard to predict and this site is by no means going to give you everything you need for the questions you'll sit. The most important thing you should do is learn how to program, and learn how to program well!
The exam is split into 4 sections that must be completed on a computer:

## Section A

<35 minutes> Theory Questions based on the material you have covered for Unit 1. For an overview of what this might include see the AQA specification and this wikibook.
* Section A

## Section B

<15 minutes> Programming solutions to short problems, not based on the preliminary material or skeleton code.
* Section B

## Section C

<10 minutes> Theory questions about the preliminary material and skeleton code.
* Section C

## Section D

<60 minutes> Program solutions based around the preliminary code. The guidance below doesn't pretend to offer the actual questions that will be set in the exam, but by doing them you should hopefully get a better grasp of the code and be able to answer any questions thrown at you during the exam.
* Section D