# 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships

The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.

## Medal summary
### Medalists

| Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
| Men's Lead | Adam Ondra (CZE) | Alexander Megos (GER) | Jakob Schubert (AUT) |
| Men's Bouldering | Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) | Jakob Schubert (AUT) | Yannick Flohé (GER) |
| Men's Speed | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | Jan Kriz (CZE) | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) |
| Men's Combined | Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) | Jakob Schubert (AUT) | Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) |
| Women's Lead | Janja Garnbret (SLO) | Mia Krampl (SLO) | Ai Mori (JPN) |
| Women's Bouldering | Janja Garnbret (SLO) | Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) | Shauna Coxsey (GBR) |
| Women's Speed | Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | Di Niu (CHN) | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) |
| Women's Combined | Janja Garnbret (SLO) | Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) | Shauna Coxsey (GBR) |

### Medal table

* Host nation (Japan)
| Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
| 1 | Slovenia | 3 | 1 | 0 | 4 |
| 2 | Japan* | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
| 3 | Czech Republic | 1 | 1 | 0 | 2 |
| 4 | Italy | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
| 4 | Poland | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
| 6 | Austria | 0 | 2 | 1 | 3 |
| 7 | Germany | 0 | 1 | 1 | 2 |
| 8 | China | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
| 9 | Great Britain | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 |
| 10 | France | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
| 10 | Kazakhstan | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
| 10 | Russia | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
| Totals (12 entries) | Totals (12 entries) | 8 | 8 | 8 | 24 |

## Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics

The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.
The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:
2020 Summer Olympic qualification :
| Men | Women |
| Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)  Jakob Schubert (AUT)  Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)  Mickaël Mawem (FRA)  Alexander Megos (GER)  Ludovico Fossali (ITA)  Sean McColl (CAN)  Kai Harada (JPN)* | Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)  Shauna Coxsey (GBR)  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)  Petra Klingler (SUI)  Brooke Raboutou (USA)  Jessica Pilz (AUT)  Miho Nonaka (JPN)* |
* Japan, as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.

## Schedule

All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)
| Q | Qualifications | SF | Semi-finals | F | Finals |
| B | Bouldering | L | Lead | S | Speed | C | Combined |
| August 2019 | 11th Sun | 12th Mon | 13th Tue | 13th Tue | 14th Wed | 15th Thu | 15th Thu | 16th Fri | 17th Sat | 17th Sat | 18th Sun | 19th Mon | 20th Tue | 21st Wed |
| Men | | B | B | B | L | L | L | Rest day | S | S | | C | | C |
| Women | B | | B | B | L | L | L | Rest day | S | S | C | | C | |

## Bouldering
### Women

| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final |
| 1 | Janja Garnbret | 5t5z 5 5 | 3t4z 7 6 | 3T3z 8 8 |
| 2 | Akiyo Noguchi | 5t5z 9 9 | 2t4z 3 8 | 2T2z 4 2 |
| 3 | Shauna Coxsey | 3t5z 6 9 | 0t3z 0 6 | 2T2z 6 6 |
| 4 | Ievgeniia Kazbekova | 4t5z 14 14 | 1t2z 2 3 | 1T2z 3 4 |
| 5 | Miho Nonaka | 3t4z 4 8 | 0t3z 0 5 | 1T2z 5 6 |
| 6 | Nanako Kura | 5t5z 12 10 | 1t2z 1 5 | 0T1z 0 1 |

### Men

| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final |
| 1 | Tomoa Narasaki | 4t4z 8 5 | 2t4z 2 4 | 2T4z 12 20 |
| 2 | Jakob Schubert | 3t4z 5 6 | 1t4z 3 12 | 0T3z 0 10 |
| 3 | Yannick Flohé | 3t5z 5 14 | 2t4z 13 16 | 0T3z 0 13 |
| 4 | Kokoro Fujii | 4t4z 5 5 | 2t4z 5 6 | 0T3z 0 18 |
| 5 | Keita Dohi | 3t5z 6 8 | 2t4z 5 10 | 0T2z 0 9 |
| 6 | Adam Ondra | 5t5z 6 6 | 3t4z 11 7 | 0T0z 0 0 |

## Lead
### Women

| Rank | Name | Qualification | Qualification | Qualification | Qualification | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final |
| Rank | Name | Route 1 | Route 1 | Route 2 | Route 2 | Points | Semi-Final | Final |
| Rank | Name | Score | Rank | Score | Rank | Points | Semi-Final | Final |
| 1 | Janja Garnbret | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 1.22 | 38+ | 43+ |
| 2 | Mia Krampl | 35+ | 6 | 32 | 7 | 7.35 | 34 | 39+ |
| 3 | Ai Mori | 39+ | 2 | TOP | 1 | 1.73 | 34+ | 38+ |
| 4 | Seo Chae-hyun | 34 | 8 | 38 | 4 | 5.66 | 32 | 38+ |
| 5 | Akiyo Noguchi | 34+ | 7 | 33+ | 6 | 6.48 | 32 | 38+ |
| 6 | Jessica Pilz | 37+ | 3 | 31+ | 12 | 8.26 | 30+ | 35+ |
| 7 | Vita Lukan | 28 | 21 | 31+ | 12 | 21.18 | 35 | 30+ |
| 8 | Julia Chanourdie | 31+ | 10 | 31+ | 12 | 14.97 | 30+ | 30+ |

### Men

| Rank | Name | Qualification | Qualification | Qualification | Qualification | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final |
| Rank | Name | Route 1 | Route 1 | Route 2 | Route 2 | Points | Semi-Final | Final |
| Rank | Name | Score | Rank | Score | Rank | Points | Semi-Final | Final |
| 1 | Adam Ondra | TOP | 1 | 31 | 22 | 9.07 | 37+ | 34+ |
| 2 | Alex Megos | TOP | 1 | 32+ | 7 | 6.06 | 40+ | 33+ |
| 3 | Jakob Schubert | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.50 | 30+ | 33+ |
| 4 | Tomoa Narasaki | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.50 | 38 | 30 |
| 5 | Sean McColl | 31+ | 9 | TOP | 1 | 5.61 | 37+ | 30 |
| 6 | Stefano Ghisolfi | 28+ | 18 | TOP | 1 | 8.05 | 29+ | 29+ |
| 7 | Kai Harada | 32+ | 8 | TOP | 1 | 5.29 | 31+ | 28+ |
| 8 | Hannes Puman | 29+ | 11 | 32+ | 7 | 11.68 | 29+ | 27+ |

## Speed
### Women

Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.
| Round of 16 | Round of 16 | Round of 16 | Quarter-finals | Quarter-finals | Quarter-finals | Semi-finals | Semi-finals | Semi-finals | | Final | Final | Final |
| 1 | Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | 7.472 | | | | | | | | | | |
| 16 | MingWei Ni (CHN) | 7.819 | | | | | | | | | | |
| 16 | MingWei Ni (CHN) | 7.819 | Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | 7.337 | | | | | | | |
| | | | Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | 8.008 | | | | | | | |
| 8 | Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | 8.114 | Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | 8.008 | | | | | | | |
| 9 | Elena Remizova (RUS) | fall | | | | | | | | | | |
| 9 | Elena Remizova (RUS) | fall | | | | Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | 7.337 | | | | |
| | | | | | | YiLing Song (CHN) | YiLing Song (CHN) | fall | | | | |
| 4 | Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) | 8.465 | | | | | | | YiLing Song (CHN) | YiLing Song (CHN) | fall | | | | |
| 13 | Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) | 7.789 | | | | | | | | | | |
| 13 | Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) | 7.789 | Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) | Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) | 7.605 | | | | | | | |
| | | | YiLing Song (CHN) | YiLing Song (CHN) | 7.192 | | | | | | | |
| 5 | YiLing Song (CHN) | 7.436 | YiLing Song (CHN) | YiLing Song (CHN) | 7.192 | | | | | | | |
| 12 | Anna Brożek (POL) | 7.945 | | | | | | | | | | |
| 12 | Anna Brożek (POL) | 7.945 | | | | | | | | Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | 7.129 |
| | | | | | | | | | | Di Niu (CHN) | Di Niu (CHN) | 8.363 |
| 2 | Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | 7.454 | | | | | | | | | | | Di Niu (CHN) | Di Niu (CHN) | 8.363 |
| 15 | Andrea Rojas (ECU) | 8.202 | | | | | | |
| 15 | Andrea Rojas (ECU) | 8.202 | Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | 7.998 | | | |
| | | | Di Niu (CHN) | Di Niu (CHN) | 7.814 | | | |
| 7 | Natalia Kałucka (POL) | 7.895 | Di Niu (CHN) | Di Niu (CHN) | 7.814 | | | |
| 10 | Di Niu (CHN) | 7.871 | | | | | | |
| 10 | Di Niu (CHN) | 7.871 | | | | Di Niu (CHN) | Di Niu (CHN) | 7.525 |
| | | | | | | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | 7.535 |
| 3 | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | 8.409 | | | | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | 7.535 | | Small final | Small final | Small final |
| 14 | Aurelia Sarisson (FRA) | 10.504 | | | | | | |
| 14 | Aurelia Sarisson (FRA) | 10.504 | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | 7.663 | | | | | YiLing Song (CHN) | YiLing Song (CHN) | 9.76 |
| | | | Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) | Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) | 10.188 | | | | | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | 7.53 |
| 6 | Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) | 7.747 | Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) | Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) | 10.188 | | | | | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | 7.53 |
| 11 | PeiYang Tian (CHN) | 8.080 | | | | | | |

### Men

Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.
| Round of 16 | Round of 16 | Round of 16 | Quarter-finals | Quarter-finals | Quarter-finals | Semi-finals | Semi-finals | Semi-finals | | Final | Final | Final |
| 1 | Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) | 6.150 | | | | | | | | | | |
| 16 | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | 5.944 | | | | | | | | | | |
| 16 | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | 5.944 | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | 5.808 | | | | | | | |
| | | | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | 5.863 | | | | | | | |
| 8 | Sergey Rukin (RUS) | fall | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | 5.863 | | | | | | | |
| 9 | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | 6.232 | | | | | | | | | | |
| 9 | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | 6.232 | | | | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | fall | | | | |
| | | | | | | Jan Kriz (CZE) | Jan Kriz (CZE) | 5.986 | | | | |
| 4 | Reza Alipour (IRI) | 6.281 | | | | | | | Jan Kriz (CZE) | Jan Kriz (CZE) | 5.986 | | | | |
| 13 | John Brosler (USA) | 9.383 | | | | | | | | | | |
| 13 | John Brosler (USA) | 9.383 | Reza Alipour (IRI) | Reza Alipour (IRI) | 7.248 | | | | | | | |
| | | | Jan Kriz (CZE) | Jan Kriz (CZE) | 6.219 | | | | | | | |
| 5 | Long Cao (CHN) | 6.441 | Jan Kriz (CZE) | Jan Kriz (CZE) | 6.219 | | | | | | | |
| 12 | Jan Kriz (CZE) | 6.136 | | | | | | | | | | |
| 12 | Jan Kriz (CZE) | 6.136 | | | | | | | | Jan Kriz (CZE) | Jan Kriz (CZE) | fall |
| | | | | | | | | | | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | 6.871 |
| 2 | Vladislav Deulin (RUS) | 5.612 | | | | | | | | | | | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | 6.871 |
| 15 | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | 5.580 | | | | | | |
| 15 | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | 5.580 | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | FS | | | |
| | | | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | WC | | | |
| 7 | Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) | fall | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | WC | | | |
| 10 | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | 5.908 | | | | | | |
| 10 | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | 5.908 | | | | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | WC |
| | | | | | | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | FS |
| 3 | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | 7.470 | | | | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | FS | | Small final | Small final | Small final |
| 14 | Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) | 7.013 | | | | | | |
| 14 | Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) | 7.013 | Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) | Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) | 7.613 | | | | | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | 5.83 |
| | | | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | 7.500 | | | | | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | 5.93 |
| 6 | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | 5.940 | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | 7.500 | | | | | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | 5.93 |
| 11 | ZhiYong Ou (CHN) | 6.072 | | | | | | |
    WC – Wildcard
    FS – False start

## Combined

Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.
In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.

### Women

| Rank | Name | Points | Speed | Speed | Bouldering | Bouldering | Lead | Lead |
| Rank | Name | Points | Rank | Time | Rank | Score | Rank | Holds |
| 1 | Janja Garnbret | 12.00 | 6 | 13.399 | 2 | 1T2z 1 2 | 1 | Top |
| 2 | Akiyo Noguchi | 21.00 | 7 | 10.082 | 1 | 2T2z 3 3 | 3 | 40+ |
| 3 | Shauna Coxsey | 42.00 | 2 | 9.225 | 3 | 1T2z 2 3 | 7 | 20 |
| 4 | Aleksandra Mirosław | 64.00 | 1 | 7.750 | 8 | 0T0z 0 0 | 8 | 10 |
| 5 | Miho Nonaka | 80.00 | 4 | 12.356 | 4 | 1T2z 3 4 | 5 | 23+ |
| 6 | Ai Mori | 80.00 | 8 | 12.860 | 5 | 1T2z 3 7 | 2 | Top |
| 7 | Futaba Ito | 120.00 | 5 | 8.655 | 6 | 0T2z 0 2 | 4 | 27 |
| 8 | Petra Klingler | 126.00 | 3 | 8.901 | 7 | 0T2z 0 3 | 6 | 23+ |

### Men

| Rank | Name | Points | Speed | Speed | Bouldering | Bouldering | Lead | Lead |
| Rank | Name | Points | Rank | Time | Rank | Score | Rank | Holds |
| 1 | Tomoa Narasaki | 4.00 | 2 | fall | 1 | 3T3z 4 3 | 2 | 30 |
| 2 | Jakob Schubert | 35.00 | 7 | 7.208 | 5 | 0T3z 0 6 | 1 | Top |
| 3 | Rishat Khaibullin | 40.00 | 1 | 5.915 | 8 | 0T1z 0 2 | 5 | 22 |
| 4 | Kai Harada | 54.00 | 3 | 6.348 | 6 | 0T2z 0 6 | 3 | 30 |
| 5 | Meichi Narasaki | 60.00 | 5 | 6.689 | 2 | 1T3z 1 4 | 6 | 21 |
| 6 | Kokoro Fujii | 72.00 | 6 | 9.438 | 3 | 1T3z 2 6 | 4 | 29+ |
| 7 | Mickaël Mawem | 112.00 | 4 | 6.716 | 4 | 1T2z 3 4 | 7 | 20 |
| 8 | Alexander Megos | 448.00 | 8 | 7.570 | 7 | 0T1z 0 1 | 8 | 0 |