# Saunags

Saunags (Livonian: Sǟnag) is a populated place in Kolka Parish, Talsi Municipality, Latvia, located 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) from the Cape Kolka, within the borders of Slītere National Park. The name derived from Livonian Sǟnag – pike perch (Sander), a local fish. First mentioned in documents in 1310, it is the oldest of the twelve Livonian villages along the Livonian Coast. The village consists of two parts—Saunags and Dižsaunags (Great Saunags), the latter being the oldest and best-preserved. Situated along the Baltic Sea, it was historically inhabited by the Livonian people.

## History and local landmarks

Saunags is at the same latitude as Gothenburg (Sweden) and the same longitude as Turku (Finland), both important ancient regional trading and cultural centres. Although far from large towns and sparsely populated, this coastal area had strategic importance in many wars because of its proximity to Irbe Strait, the main sea route to Riga. As a result, the nearby seabed is dotted with medieval to modern shipwrecks. During the Crimean War the British navy landed and burned down a military outpost of the Russian Empire here. During the First World War the Russian navy placed a large number of naval mines offshore, the largest such emplacement at that point in Baltic Sea history. This led to many German ships being destroyed here. During the Second World War, German guns located here and opposite at Saaremaa island controlled the Irbe Strait.
After World War II, this area became the Soviet western border. There remains a Soviet Border Troops tower, projector light base, and small security house (the only one still standing). An old road, located behind the dunes parallel to the coast, connects Dižsaunags with the former lighthouse (as the light is dismantled, the tower now functions as the Saunagciema navigational sign) in the direction of Vaide. Along the route is Akacijas estate and a few abandoned German and Soviet military bunkers. During World War II and after, this narrow road was used as a military supply route by Soviet border guards, as well as coast guards servicing the lighthouse. A coastal narrow gauge railway was planned here linking Pitrags and Mazirbe, but was left unfinished during World War I. This historic forest road is still used occasionally by local residents.
According to a local legend, there is a Medieval burial ground on the outskirts of the village in the direction of Vaide, however archeological works conducted in 2012 did not find any burials there (except for pets). Next to this site lay the ruins of the first Soviet military base built by troops of Baltic Military District soon after World War II.
Although situated in a coastal environment, Saunags is home to a very large lime tree on Niglini estate, and a group of very large black alder (Alnus glutinosa) trees on Kalnbunkas estate. According to a Latvian registry listing all great or largest trees, Saunags is the only locality with two species large trees in one place.
The village can be accessed by car from the main asphalted road or via the old forest road connecting Saunags with Vaide and Pitrags. There are signs on the forest road marking the borders of Saunags. There is a bus stop “Saunags” on Riga-Mazirbe bus route. Also, there are biking and hiking routes passing Saunags both on the coast and via forest road.

## Former and present landowners

For many centuries until 1918, most of the land in this area, as well as the neighboring regions, belonged to the Baron Osten-Sacken family, a prominent Baltic-German noble dynasty. Their primary residence was Dundaga Castle (formerly known as Dundagen). After 1905 upraising local fishermen were gradually allowed to acquire land plots and their houses from the baron.
In 1731 Dundaga manor book stated three estates in Saunags: Buncke Pritiz (present name Kalnbunkas), Melcke Ans (Niglini) and Walke Angeck (Valkas). According to local elders, Bunke Pritiz is likely the first and oldest settlement on the entire Livonian coast. This claim is supported by the presence of the area’s oldest trees and the fact that the house itself is situated at one of the highest point in the oldest village. Interestingly, a nearby forest clearing (now part of the Niglini estate), located between Jaunpakalni’s sauna building and Akacijas, served as a central gathering place for local Livonian celebrations for centuries. However, over the past 20-30 years, the clearing has gradually become overgrown with trees. In the 19th century, a fourth estate, Kruhming (now Krumini), was established.
In the past, Saunags was mainly populated by fishermen and farmers; today, historic wooden properties are mainly used as summer houses (or dachas). Akacijas estate (former Rupnieki) is the site of former local store as well as fish processing and salting plant owned by Kārlis Tilmanis, well known canned fish brand in Latvia between two World Wars. Tilmanis family fled by fishing boat to Sweden in 1945. Only ice storage inside the dune and skeleton wooden pier still remains. The other large estates are Jaunpakalni (include former Pakalni, Kalnbunkas and part of former Niglini), Krumini and Niglini. There is a small private Ethnographic Museum on Jaunpakalni estate, which includes restored old boat "Pakalni" used for fishing for over 50 years in local waters (viewings are by appointment only). Former fishermen barn, where all chandlery was kept, as well as winter repair wharf, were located symmetrically on the left and right side accordingly of Kalnbunkas' private seashore approach road. Only foundations now remain, although there are plans in place to re-construct them together with the timber pier.

## 700th anniversary

In 2010 Saunags celebrated its 700th birthday (since first mentioned in documents in year 1310). To mark this anniversary some local summer residents followed old Livonian routes by sea on motor yacht "Kolka" from Riga via Ruhnu and Saaremaa islands and Kolka to Saunags, where they disembarked from an anchored boat. A memorial sign reading “DIŽSAUNAGS” has been placed atop a sand dune between the two access roads leading to the beach.