# Lübeck

Lübeck (German: ; Low German: Lübęk or Lübeek; Latin: Lubeca), officially the Hanseatic City of Lübeck (German: Hansestadt Lübeck), is a city in Northern Germany. With around 220,000 inhabitants, it is the second-largest city on the German Baltic coast and the second-largest city in the state of Schleswig-Holstein, after its capital of Kiel. It is the 36th-largest city in Germany.
The city lies in the Holsatian part of Schleswig-Holstein, on the mouth of the Trave, which flows into the Bay of Lübeck in the borough of Travemünde, and on the Trave's tributary Wakenitz. The island with the historic old town and the districts north of the Trave are also located in the historical region of Wagria. Lübeck is the southwesternmost city on the Baltic Sea, and the closest point of access to the Baltic from Hamburg. The city lies in the Holsatian dialect area of Low German.
The name Lübeck ultimately stems from the Slavic root lub- ('love-'). Before 819, Polabian Slavs founded a settlement which they called Liubice on the mouth of the Schwartau into the Trave. Since the 10th century, Liubice was the second-most important settlement of the Obotrites after Starigard. Lübeck was granted Soest city rights in 1160, and, in 1260, it became an immediate city within the Holy Roman Empire. In the middle of the 12th century, Lübeck developed into the cradle of the Hanseatic League, of which it was considered the de facto capital and most important city from then on. The Lübeck law was eventually adopted by around 100 cities in the Baltic region. Lübeck could preserve its status as an independent city, which it held since 1226, until 1937.
Lübeck's historic old town, located on a densely built-up island, is Germany's most extensive UNESCO World Heritage Site. With six church towers surpassing 100 metres (330 ft), Lübeck is the city with the highest number of tall church towers worldwide. Nicknamed the "City of the Seven Towers" (Stadt der Sieben Türme [de]), Lübeck's skyline is dominated by the seven towers of its five Protestant main churches: St Mary's, Lübeck Cathedral, St James', St Peter's, and St Giles's. The cathedral, built between 1173 and 1341, was the first large brickwork church in the Baltic region. St Mary's Church, built between 1265 and 1351, is considered the model on which most of the other Brick Gothic churches in the sphere of influence of the Hanseatic League are based. It is the second-tallest church with two main towers after Cologne Cathedral (which only surpassed it in 1880), has the tallest brick vault, and is the second-tallest brickwork structure after St. Martin's Church in Landshut.
Lübeck is home to the University of Lübeck with its University Medical Center Schleswig Holstein, the Technical University of Applied Sciences Lübeck, and the Lübeck Academy of Music. There are 18 museums in Lübeck, among which the European Hansemuseum, Lübeck Museum Port, and the Niederegger Marzipan Museum, dedicated to the culinary specialty the city is best known, Lübeck Marzipan. Due to their southwestern location, Travemünde and the nearby seaside resorts of Niendorf, Timmendorfer Strand, Scharbeutz, Haffkrug, Sierksdorf, and Grömitz are among Germany's most visited.
Lübeck Main Station is located on the Vogelfluglinie railway line connecting continental Europe (Hamburg) to Scandinavia (Copenhagen) via the future Fehmarn Belt fixed link. The port of Lübeck is the second-largest German port on the Baltic Sea after the port of Rostock, and the Skandinavienkai in Travemünde is Germany's most important ferry port, with connections to Scandinavia and the Baltic countries. The city has its own regional airport at Lübeck-Blankensee, while nearby Hamburg Airport serves as Lübeck's main air hub.

## History

Humans settled in the area around what today is Lübeck after the last Ice Age ended about 9700 BCE. Several Neolithic dolmens can be found in the area.
Around 700 AD, Slavic peoples started moving into the eastern parts of Holstein, an area previously settled by Germanic inhabitants who had moved on in the Migration Period. Charlemagne, whose efforts to Christianise the area were opposed by the Germanic Saxons, expelled many of the Saxons and brought in Polabian Slavs allies. Liubice (the place-name means "lovely") was founded on the banks of the River Trave about 4 km (2.5 mi) north of the present-day city-center of Lübeck.
In the 10th century, it became the most important settlement of the Obotrite confederacy and a castle was built. In 1128, the pagan Rani from Rügen razed Liubice.
In 1143, Adolf II, Count of Schauenburg and Holstein, founded the modern town as a German settlement on the river island of Bucu. He built a new castle, first mentioned by the chronicler Helmold as existing in 1147. Adolf had to cede the castle to the Duke of Saxony, Henry the Lion, in 1158. After Henry's fall from power in 1181, the town became an Imperial city for eight years.
Emperor Barbarossa (reigned 1152–1190) ordained that the city should have a ruling council of 20 members. With the council dominated by merchants, pragmatic trade interests shaped Lübeck's politics for centuries. The council survived into the 19th century. The town and castle changed ownership for a period afterwards and formed part of the Duchy of Saxony until 1192, of the County of Holstein until 1217, and of the kingdom of Denmark until the Battle of Bornhöved in 1227.

### Hanseatic city

Around 1200, the port became the main point of departure for colonists leaving for the Baltic territories conquered by the Livonian Order, and later, by the Teutonic Order. In 1226, Emperor Frederick II elevated the town to the status of an Imperial free city, by which it became the Free City of Lübeck.
In the 14th century, Lübeck became the "Queen of the Hanseatic League", being by far the largest and most powerful member of that medieval trade organization. In 1375, Emperor Charles IV named Lübeck one of the five "Glories of the Empire", a title shared with Venice, Rome, Pisa, and Florence.
Several conflicts about trading privileges resulted in fighting between Lübeck (with the Hanseatic League) and Denmark and Norway – with varying outcome. While Lübeck and the Hanseatic League prevailed in conflicts in 1435 and 1512, Lübeck lost when it became involved in the Count's Feud, a civil war that raged in Denmark from 1534 to 1536. Lübeck also joined the pro-Lutheran Schmalkaldic League of the mid-16th century.

### Decline

After its defeat in the Count's Feud, Lübeck's power slowly declined. The city remained neutral in the Thirty Years' War of 1618–1648, but the combination of the devastation from the decades-long war and the new transatlantic orientation of European trade caused the Hanseatic League – and thus Lübeck with it – to decline in importance. However, even after the de facto disbanding of the Hanseatic League in 1669, Lübeck still remained an important trading town on the Baltic Sea.

### From the Napoleonic wars to the Franco-Prussian war

In the course of the war of the Fourth Coalition against Napoleon, troops under Marshal Jean Baptiste Bernadotte (who would later become King of Sweden) occupied Lübeck after a battle against Prussian General Gebhard Blücher on 6 November 1806 due to the latter's illegal use of the city as a fortress, in violation of Lübeck's neutrality, following the French pursuit of his corps after the Battle of Jena-Auerstadt. Under the Continental System, the State bank went into bankruptcy. In 1811, the French Empire formally annexed Lübeck as part of France but the anti-Napoleonic allies liberated the area in 1813.
After Napoleon's defeat, the Congress of Vienna of 1815 recognised Lübeck as an independent free city. The city became a member of the German Confederation (1815–1866), the North German Confederation (1866–1871) and the German Empire (1871–1918).
During the Franco-Prussian War, the battalion de Fusilier of Lübeck was part of the "2nd Hanseatic Infantry Regiment No. 76". On the day of the Battle of Loigny the commander of the 17th Division, Hugo von Kottwitz, of the morning advanced in front of the Fusilier battalion of the regiment, urging them to "commemorate the bravery of the Hanseatic League". his attack in the north while the other battalions turned towards Loigny.
This shock surprised the French so much that they were invaded by their flank. They fled to the Fougeu place and were kicked out of this. The battle was to become the founding myth of the last Lübeck regiment, 3rd Hanseatic Infantry Regiment No. 162, which was founded in 1897. When the battalion commander returned to Lübeck with his battalion, he was appointed regimental commander.

### 20th century

At the end of the First World War and the fall of the German Empire, Lübeck became a member state of the Weimar Republic (1919–1933). After the Nazi seizure of power, Lübeck, like all other German states, was subjected to the process of Gleichschaltung (coordination). Subsequent to the enactment of the "Second Law on the Coordination of the States with the Reich" on 7 April 1933, Friedrich Hildebrandt was appointed to the new position of Reichsstatthalter (Reich Governor) of Lübeck on 26 May 1933. Hildebrandt installed Otto-Heinrich Drechsler as the Bürgermeister, displacing the duly-elected Social Democrat, Paul Löwigt [de].
Additionally, on 30 January 1934, the Reich government enacted the "Law on the Reconstruction of the Reich," formally abolishing all the state parliaments and transferring the sovereignty of the states to the central government. With this action, the Lübeck popular assembly, the Bürgerschaft, was dissolved and Lübeck effectively lost its rights as a federal state. Under the provisions of the Greater Hamburg Act, Lübeck was absorbed into the Prussian Province of Schleswig-Holstein, effective 1 April 1937, thereby losing its 711-year status as an independent free city.
During World War II (1939–1945), Lübeck became the first German city to suffer substantial Royal Air Force (RAF) bombing. The attack of 28 March 1942 created a firestorm that caused severe damage to the historic centre. This raid destroyed three of the main churches and large parts of the built-up area; the bells of St Marienkircke plunged to the stone floor. Nearly 1,500 houses were completely destroyed, 2,200 heavily damaged and 9,000 slightly damaged. More than 320 people lost their lives. The industrial area of Lübeck was bombed on 25 August 1944 and 110 people were killed. In total, nearly 20% of the city centre was entirely destroyed, with particular damage in the Gründungsviertel neighborhood, where the rich merchants from the Hanseatic League had once lived. Germany operated a prisoner-of-war camp for officers, Oflag X-C, near the city from 1940 until April 1945. The British Second Army entered Lübeck on 2 May 1945 and occupied it without resistance.
On 3 May 1945, one of the biggest disasters in naval history occurred in the Bay of Lübeck when RAF bombers sank three ships: the SS Cap Arcona, the SS Deutschland, and the SS Thielbek – which, unknown to them, were packed with concentration-camp inmates. About 7,000 people died.
Lübeck's population grew considerably, from about 150,000 in 1939 to more than 220,000 after the war, owing to an influx of ethnic German refugees expelled from the former eastern provinces of Germany in the Communist Bloc. Lübeck remained part of Schleswig-Holstein after World War II (and consequently lay within West Germany). It stood directly on what became the inner German border during the division of Germany into two states in the Cold War period. South of the city, the border followed the path of the river Wakenitz, which separated Germany by less than 10 m (33 ft) in many parts. The northernmost border crossing was in Lübeck's district of Schlutup. Lübeck spent decades restoring its historic city centre. In 1987, UNESCO designated this area a World Heritage Site.
In April 2015, Lübeck hosted the G7 conference.

## Climate

Lübeck has an oceanic climate (Köppen: Cfb; Trewartha: Dobk). Lübeck is located on the eastern coast of the Baltic Sea and is greatly regulated by the ocean. The average annual temperature ranges from 2 °C (36 °F) in winter to 18 °C (64 °F) in summer. Although the summer is relatively cooler than inland, there is still a high probability of high temperature days. On average, there are 6.6 days per year with maximum temperatures exceeding 30 °C (86 °F).
The Lübeck weather station has recorded the following extreme values:
* Highest Temperature 38.0 °C (100.4 °F) on 9 August 1982.
* Warmest Minimum 21.5 °C (70.7 °F) on 30 July 2018.
* Coldest Maximum −16.1 °C (3.0 °F) on 18 January 1893.
* Lowest Temperature −27.2 °C (−17.0 °F) on 4 February 1912.
* Highest Daily Precipitation 95.7 mm (3.77 in) on 17 July 2002.
* Wettest Month 188.9 mm (7.44 in) in August 2010.
* Wettest Year 933.9 mm (36.77 in) in 1998.
* Driest Year 381.3 mm (15.01 in) in 1959.
* Longest annual sunshine: 2,064.5 hours in 1959.
* Shortest annual sunshine: 1,300.7 hours in 1998.
Climate data for Lübeck (1991–2020 normals, extremes 1890–present) :
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Record high °C (°F) | 15.7 (60.3) | 18.6 (65.5) | 23.8 (74.8) | 29.8 (85.6) | 34.2 (93.6) | 34.8 (94.6) | 37.9 (100.2) | 38.0 (100.4) | 32.4 (90.3) | 26.8 (80.2) | 19.9 (67.8) | 15.4 (59.7) | 38.0 (100.4) |
| Mean maximum °C (°F) | 10.4 (50.7) | 11.4 (52.5) | 16.6 (61.9) | 22.8 (73.0) | 27.2 (81.0) | 29.8 (85.6) | 31.8 (89.2) | 31.7 (89.1) | 26.2 (79.2) | 20.3 (68.5) | 14.0 (57.2) | 11.0 (51.8) | 33.7 (92.7) |
| Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 3.7 (38.7) | 5.0 (41.0) | 8.7 (47.7) | 13.9 (57.0) | 18.2 (64.8) | 21.1 (70.0) | 23.8 (74.8) | 23.5 (74.3) | 19.1 (66.4) | 13.7 (56.7) | 7.7 (45.9) | 4.6 (40.3) | 13.5 (56.3) |
| Daily mean °C (°F) | 1.4 (34.5) | 2.0 (35.6) | 4.4 (39.9) | 8.5 (47.3) | 12.6 (54.7) | 15.7 (60.3) | 18.0 (64.4) | 17.7 (63.9) | 13.9 (57.0) | 9.4 (48.9) | 5.2 (41.4) | 2.4 (36.3) | 9.2 (48.6) |
| Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | −1.3 (29.7) | −1.1 (30.0) | 0.4 (32.7) | 3.0 (37.4) | 6.5 (43.7) | 9.9 (49.8) | 12.3 (54.1) | 12.2 (54.0) | 9.2 (48.6) | 5.7 (42.3) | 2.2 (36.0) | −0.1 (31.8) | 4.9 (40.8) |
| Mean minimum °C (°F) | −11.4 (11.5) | −9.7 (14.5) | −6.7 (19.9) | −3.4 (25.9) | −0.2 (31.6) | 4.5 (40.1) | 7.2 (45.0) | 6.9 (44.4) | 3.4 (38.1) | −1.9 (28.6) | −5.0 (23.0) | −8.5 (16.7) | −13.9 (7.0) |
| Record low °C (°F) | −24.3 (−11.7) | −27.2 (−17.0) | −19.1 (−2.4) | −8.4 (16.9) | −3.0 (26.6) | −0.1 (31.8) | 3.4 (38.1) | 2.6 (36.7) | −2.6 (27.3) | −7.8 (18.0) | −14.3 (6.3) | −18.8 (−1.8) | −27.2 (−17.0) |
| Average precipitation mm (inches) | 59.9 (2.36) | 51.0 (2.01) | 47.9 (1.89) | 38.0 (1.50) | 49.6 (1.95) | 70.8 (2.79) | 71.5 (2.81) | 71.1 (2.80) | 54.0 (2.13) | 55.4 (2.18) | 55.3 (2.18) | 65.6 (2.58) | 680.8 (26.80) |
| Average extreme snow depth cm (inches) | 4.0 (1.6) | 6.7 (2.6) | 3.9 (1.5) | 0.8 (0.3) | 0 (0) | 0 (0) | 0 (0) | 0 (0) | 0 (0) | 0 (0) | 1.6 (0.6) | 3.2 (1.3) | 11.3 (4.4) |
| Average precipitation days (≥ 1.0 mm) | 12.8 | 10.8 | 10.7 | 8.0 | 9.9 | 10.6 | 10.9 | 11.4 | 9.9 | 10.3 | 11.2 | 11.9 | 128.4 |
| Average relative humidity (%) | 87.7 | 84.5 | 80.0 | 74.6 | 73.0 | 74.1 | 74.3 | 76.2 | 81.2 | 85.7 | 89.4 | 89.4 | 80.8 |
| Mean monthly sunshine hours | 42.2 | 60.5 | 119.4 | 183.1 | 231.0 | 216.6 | 223.1 | 203.5 | 149.8 | 103.7 | 48.4 | 32.3 | 1,606.2 |
| Source 1: World Meteorological Organization ||||||||||||||
| Source 2: DWD Open Data ||||||||||||||