# Ternopil Oblast

Ternopil Oblast (Ukrainian: Тернопільська область, romanized: Ternópilʹsʹka óblastʹ), also referred to as Ternopilshchyna (Ukrainian: Тернопільщина, romanized: Ternópilʹščyna) or Ternopillia (Ukrainian: Тернопілля, romanized: Ternopíllja), is an oblast (province) of Ukraine. Its administrative center is Ternopil, through which flows the Seret, a tributary of the Dniester. Population: 1,021,713 (2022 estimate).
One of the natural wonders of the region are its cave complexes. Although Ternopil Oblast is among the smallest regions in Ukraine, over 100 caves have been discovered there. Scientists believe these are only 20% of all possible caves in the region. The biggest cave is Optymistychna Cave. Measuring 267 km (166 mi) in total length, it is the longest cave in Eurasia and the fifth-longest in the world. Twenty percent of the land in the region is chernozem soil.
Among its attractions, Ternopil Oblast has 34 castles. By at least one account, the most prominent is the Zbarazh Castle with fortifications that expand over 16 ha (40 acres) and was the center of a 17th-century standoff between troops of Bohdan Khmelnytsky and the army of the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth. The Dniester Canyon passes through the oblast; it is considered one of the wonders of Ukraine, stretching for 250 km (160 mi).

## Geography

The oblast is located in Western Ukraine and has an area of 13,800 km$^2$ (5,300 sq mi). It is situated at the western part of the Podilian Upland, which is known for its rocky terrain. Among noticeable mountains there are the Kremenets Mountains. The oblast is also famous for its caves.
One of the major rivers in the country Dniester forms southern and southwestern borders of Ternopil Oblast with the adjacent Chernivtsi Oblast and Ivano-Frankivsk Oblast. Its tributaries that flow through the oblast include Zbruch, Seret, and Strypa among just a few of them. The Seret River (not to be confused with Siret nor Seret) is a left tributary of the Dniester flowing through the oblast administrative center, i.e. Ternopil.
Ternopil Oblast is one of two oblasts in West Ukraine that do not have an international border. It is surrounded by five other oblasts of Ukraine: Chernivtsi Oblast – to the south, Ivano-Frankivsk Oblast – to the southwest, Lviv Oblast – to the northwest, Rivne Oblast – to the north, and Khmelnytskyi Oblast – to the east.

## History

Historic administrative affiliation of the area:
* 1199–1253: Principality of Galicia-Volhynia
* 1253–1434: Kingdom of Galicia-Volhynia
* 1434–1569: Kingdom of Poland: Ruthenian Voivodeship, Podolian Voivodeship / Grand Duchy of Lithuania: Ziemia wołyńska
* 1566–1569: Kingdom of Poland: Ruthenian Voivodship, Podolskie Voivodship / Grand Duchy of Lithuania: Volyn Voivodship
* 1569–1672: Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, Crown of the Kingdom of Poland, Lesser Poland Province of the Polish Crown (Małopolska): Ruthenian Voivodeship, Volyn Voivodeship, Podolskie Voivodeship
* 1672–1699: Poland-Lithuania, Crown of the Kingdom of Poland, Małopolska province: Ruthenian Voivodeship, Volyn Voivodeship / Ottoman Empire: Podolia Eyalet
* 1699–1772: Poland-Lithuania, Crown of the Kingdom of Poland, Małopolska province: Ruthenian Voivodeship, Volyn Voivodeship, Podolskie Voivodeship
* 1772–1795: Habsburg monarchy: Kingdom of Galicia and Lodomeria (Austrian Partition) / Poland-Lithuania, Crown of the Kingdom of Poland, Lesser Poland Province: Volhynia Voivodship
* 1795–1804: Habsburg Monarchy: Galicia and Lodomeria, East Galicia (Austrian Partition) / Russian Empire: Volhynia Governorate (Russian Partition)
* 1804–1809: Austrian Empire: Galicia and Lodomeria, East Galicia (Austrian Partition) / Russian Empire: Volyn Governorate (Russian Partition)
* 1809–1815: Austrian Empire: Galicia and Lodomeria (Austrian Partition) / Russian Empire: Volyn Governorate (Russian Partition), Tarnopolsky Krai [de; pl; ru; uk] (formerly of the Austrian Partition)
* 1815–1867: Austrian Empire: Galicia and Lodomeria (Austrian Partition) / Russian Empire: Volyn Governorate (Russian Partition)
* 1867–November 1918: Austria-Hungary: Galicia and Lodomeria (Austrian Partition) / Russian Empire: Volhynia Governorate (Russian Partition)
* November 1918–July 1919 - West Ukrainian People's Republic (de facto)
* 1919 (de facto; 1923 de jure)–1945: Rzeczpospolita Polska: Tarnopol Voivodeship, Volyn Voivodeship
* 1944 (de facto; 1945 de jure)–1991: USSR, Ukrainian SSR: Ternopil region
* since 1991: Ukraine: Ternopil region
From the 12th century the area belonged to Galicia–Volhynia until Galicia–Volhynia was incorporated into the Kingdom of Poland and Grand Duchy of Lithuania in the 14th century.
In 1569 Poland and Lithuania united into the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.
From the First Partition of Poland in 1772 until the end of World War I the area which would become Ternopil Oblast was mostly part of the Kingdom of Galicia and Lodomeria, a possession of the Habsburg Monarchy, Austrian Empire and finally Austria-Hungary. In Ukraine today, there are three oblasts (provinces) that largely formed the eastern part of Galicia and Lodomeria until 1918. Ivano-Frankivsk Oblast was entirely contained in the kingdom, as was the vast majority of Lviv Oblast (only a few small areas and villages near Sokal were not). The southern and central parts of Ternopil Oblast were within the kingdom while the northern parts (pre-2020 raions: Kremenets, Shumsk, Lanivtsi and the northern half of Zbarazh; post-2020: Kremenets Raion and small parts of Ternopil Raion) remained with Poland Lithuania; from 1795 (Third Partition) they belonged to the Russian Volhynian Governorate (specifically the Kremenetsky Uyezd). During the Napoleonic wars the area around Ternopil was annexed by Russia in the 1809 Treaty of Schönbrunn becoming the Tarnopolsky Krai [de; pl; ru; uk]; it was ceded back to Austria in 1815 (Congress of Vienna). The Tarnopolsky Krai roughly covered the eastern two-thirds of the post-2022 Ternopil Raion and the Chortkiv Raion up to the Strypa; in pre-2020 terms it corresponded with the cities of Ternopil and Chortkiv and the Borshchiv, Chortkiv, Husiatyn, Pidvolochysk, Terebovlia, Ternopil and Zalishchyky raions, the southern half of Zbarazh raion, the eastern and northern parts of Buchach raion and some eastern parts of Zboriv and Kozova raions.
From 1917 the formerly Russian part came under the Ukrainian People's Republic (Ukrainian State April–December 1918; also claimed by the Ukrainian People's Republic of Soviets/Ukrainian Soviet Republic December 1917–April 1918 and the Ukrainian SSR from March 1919); from 1918 the formerly Austrian part was controlled by the West Ukrainian People's Republic (nominally part of the Ukrainian People's Republic from 22 January 1919) but ultimately the whole area fell to the Second Polish Republic in 1921 following the Ukrainian War of Independence, Polish–Ukrainian War and Polish–Soviet War. The formerly Austrian parts became part of the Tarnopol Voivodeship, while the formerly Russian parts became part of the Volhynian Voivodeship, specifically the Krzemieniec county [pl; uk]. The southern pre-2020 raions of Ternopil Oblast were partially coterminous with Galicia and Lodomeria's districts/counties and Interwar Poland's counties.
| Raions of Ternopil Oblast (until 2020) | Equivalent districts/counties of Galicia and Lodomeria |
| Berezhany Raion | Western part of Brzeżany county. |
| Borshchiv Raion | Borszczów |
| Buchach Raion | Buczacz county |
| Chortkiv Raion | Czortków and the southern part of Kopychyntsi county |
| Husiatyn Raion | Kopychyntsi |
| Kozova Raion | Eastern part of Brzeżany county except for the city of Brzeżany itself. |
| Monastyryska Raion | Western part of Buczacz county. |
| Pidhaitsi Raion | Western part of Podhajce county. |
| Pidvolochysk Raion | Skalat county and the eastern part of Zbaraż county |
| Terebovlia Raion | Trembowla county in the east and Podhajce county in the west. |
| Ternopil Raion | Tarnopol county |
| Zalishchyky Raion | Zalishchyky |
| Zbarazh Raion | The western part of Zbaraż county and the southern part of Brody county. |
| Zboriv Raion | Zborów county |
The oblast was created during the Second World War when both Nazi Germany and later the Soviet Union invaded Poland. Due to the Polish national policy in the area (Pacification action), many people favored the Soviet invasion of Eastern Galicia at first. However, soon thereafter, the Soviet security agencies started a witch hunt among nationally oriented members of Ukrainian resistance who emigrated to Poland after the Soviet-Ukrainian War as well as other reasons. Many of local population were exiled to Siberia regardless of their ethnic background. On December 4, 1939, the voivodeship division in the West Ukraine was abolished and replaced with the existing Soviet administrative division oblast. Ternopil Oblast (originally Tarnopol Oblast) was established based mostly on the Tarnopol Voivodeship and southern portions of the Volhynian Voivodeship.
During the invasion of the Soviet Union by Nazi Germany, Ternopil became an object of fierce fighting between Soviet and German forces because of its importance as a rail transportation hub. During German occupation, the region (except for its Volhynian portion) became part of the District of Galicia and transferred to administration by the General Government. After the war, a destroyed residential section of Ternopil, near the river, was turned into an artificial lake rather than being rebuilt. Additionally, upon annexation to the Soviet Union's Ukrainian SSR, most ethnic Poles in the region were forcibly relocated to Poland, whose national borders had shifted far to the west. The area of the former Polish voivodeship was expanded by adding territory in the north, though the westernmost parts were transferred to the Lviv oblast. After 1945 Soviet authorities also encouraged ethnic Russians to settle in territories newly annexed to the Soviet Union, including the Ternopil oblast, though western Ukraine remained considerably less Russian than eastern Ukraine.
As Ukraine achieved independence in the 1990s, western Ukraine remained the heartland of Ukrainian political and cultural nationalism, and the political affiliations of Ternopil voters reflected that viewpoint. In the first elections after independence, the People's Movement of Ukraine was the leading party in the oblast. A majority of oblast voters supported the Ukrainian nationalist-oriented Electoral Bloc Yuliya Tymoshenko in the 2002 Ukrainian parliamentary election. Over 88% of voters supported Yulia Tymoshenko of the All-Ukrainian Union "Fatherland" in the 2010 Ukrainian presidential election.
By 2005, the population of the oblast had grown to roughly 225,000, consisting primarily of ethnic Ukrainians with a large Russian or Russian-speaking minority. The city of Ternopil has important institutions of higher education, including two teacher's colleges, an international medical school with instruction in English, and one of three economics institutes in Ukraine.
The religion of the majority is Ukrainian Greek Catholic, though there is a notable Orthodox presence and a small Protestant minority. Many churches which were closed or destroyed under Soviet rule have rebuilt since independence. The local Jewish community, which was very large before 1939, disappeared in the Holocaust and was not reestablished after 1945. There are no active synagogues in the oblast and only a few isolated individuals affiliating with the Jewish faith.

## Points of interest

The oblast is known for its castles and fortresses. Due to the underfunding of the state program for the preservation of cultural heritage, many of objects of historical significance are in poor condition. The following historic-cultural sites were nominated for the Seven Wonders of Ukraine.
* Verteba Cave, a cave in Borshchiv Raion
* Bohyt, a hill near Zbruch River where was found the Zbruch idol (Husiatyn Raion)
* Buchach Ratusha, a former town hall in Buchach
* Pochaiv Lavra, located in the city of Pochaiv, one of the biggest holy places of Christian Orthodox in Ukraine
* Zarvanytsia Spiritual Center, a big holy place of Greek Catholics of Podillia (Terebovlia Raion)
* Vyshnivets Palace, a princely palace in Vyshnivets (Zbarazh Raion)
* Camp UPA, a museum of Ukrainian resistance movement in Shumsk Raion
* Dzhuryn Waterfall
* Castles of Ternopil Region (Ternopil Castle, Berezhany Castle, Zbarazh Castle, and others)

## Population
### Ethnic composition

The population is predominantly Ukrainophone. About 98% of the population considers themselves Ukrainians. The biggest minorities are Poles and Russians, who represent 1.6% of the total population combined. Most of the population is bilingual and the Ukrainian language is accepted in daily communications. The estimated population is 1,038,694 (2020 est.)
Before World War II, the ethnic composition was very different. According to the 1931 Polish Census Ukrainians were a slight majority in the Tarnopol Voivodeship at 54.8%, while there were almost no Russians. On the other hand, the Polish and Jewish population decreased drastically from 36.6% and 8.4% respectively.

### Age structure

    0-14 years: 15.7% (male 86,309/female 81,940)
    15-64 years: 69.0% (male 360,305/female 381,271)
    65 years and over: 15.3% (male 53,364/female 110,887) (2013 official)

### Median age

    total: 38.6 years
    male: 35.8 years
    female: 41.4 years (2013 official)

## Economy and transportation

The economy is predominantly agriculturally oriented. Among industries, there is a well developed food industry particularly sugar production, alcohol, and dairy (such as butter). There is also number of factories such as "Vatra" (lighting equipment), Ternopil Harvester Plant, "Orion" (radio communication) among a few.
Ternopil Oblast has an adequate network of highways, while the city of Ternopil is located at the intersection of main European corridors along the E50 and E85 highways. There is a small airport in Ternopil (Ternopil Airport) which however mostly is used for charter flights. There is a well developed railroad network which is a part of the Lviv Railways. Water transportation is very limited and mostly along the Dniester River.

## Subdivisions

After 18 July 2020
| # | Name | Center | Year | Area (km$^2$) | Population | Hromadas | Populated place | Populated place | Populated place |
| # | Name | Center | Year | Area (km$^2$) | Population | Hromadas | City | Town | Village |
| 1 | Kremenets | Kremenets | | | 144,7 | 8 | 4 | 1 | |
| 2 | Ternopil | Ternopil | | | 566,9 | 25 | 7 | 6 | |
| 3 | Chortkiv | Chortkiv | | | 334,3 | 22 | 7 | 9 | |
Before 18 July 2020 Before the 2020 administrative reform, Ternopil Oblast was administratively subdivided into 17 raions (districts), as well as 1 city (municipality) which is directly subordinate to the oblast government: Ternopil, the administrative center of the oblast. The average area of a raion was around 808 km$^2$ (312 sq mi), the biggest one was Terebovlia Raion covering 1,130 km$^2$ (440 sq mi) and the smallest one - Pidhaitsi Raion with 496 km$^2$ (192 sq mi). The average population number was around 50.6 thousands which is just below the national average.
Raions of the Ternopil Oblast :
| In English | In Ukrainian | Administrative Center |
| Berezhany Raion | Бережанський район Berezhanskyi raion | Berezhany (City) |
| Borshchiv Raion | Борщівський район Borshchivskyi raion | Borshchiv (City) |
| Buchach Raion | Бучацький район Buchatskyi raion | Buchach (City) |
| Chortkiv Raion | Чортківський район Chortkivskyi raion | Chortkiv (City) |
| Husiatyn Raion | Гусятинський район Husiatynskyi raion | Husiatyn (Urban-type settlement) |
| Kozova Raion | Козівський район Kozivskyi raion | Kozova (Urban-type settlement) |
| Kremenets Raion | Кременецький район Kremenetskyi raion | Kremenets (City) |
| Lanivtsi Raion | Лановецький район Lanovetskyi raion | Lanivtsi (City) |
| Monastyryska Raion | Монастириський район Monastyryskyi raion | Monastyryska (City) |
| Pidhaitsi Raion | Підгаєцький район Pidhayetskyi raion | Pidhaitsi (City) |
| Pidvolochysk Raion | Підволочиський район Pidvolochyskyi raion | Pidvolochysk (Urban-type settlement) |
| Shumsk Raion | Шумський район Shumskyi raion | Shumsk (City) |
| Terebovlia Raion | Теребовлянський район Terebovlanskyi raion | Terebovlia (City) |
| Ternopil Raion | Тернопільський район Ternopilskyi raion | Ternopil (City) |
| Zalishchyky Raion | Заліщицький район Zalishchytskyi raion | Zalishchyky (City) |
| Zbarazh Raion | Збаразький район Zbarazkyi raion | Zbarazh (City) |
| Zboriv Raion | Зборівський район Zborivskyi raion | Zboriv (City) |

## Notable people

In town of Buchach was born a Nobel Prize recipient, writer Shmuel Yosef Agnon. The prize was given for works about fate of Galician Jews. Agnon worked for a Lviv newspaper, but after refusal to serve in the army he moved to Mandatory Palestine. In Ukraine he published over 70 of his early works.
* Solomiya Krushelnytska, one of the brightest soprano opera stars of the first half of the 20th century, was born in Biliavyntsi. , Chortkiv Raion.
* Petro Gadz, entrepreneur and politician
* Mike Mazurki, American professional athlete and actor 196 cm (6 ft 5 in) in height
* Lee Strasberg, American theatre director and actor

## Gallery

* Ternopil Buran
* Pochaiv Lavra
* Zbarazh Castle
* Chortkiv
* Kremenets from Zamkova Hill
* Berezhany
* Terebovlia
* Borshchiv
* Buchach
* Zalishchyky
* Terebovlia Castle
* Dzhuryn Waterfall
* Dniester Canyon National Nature Park
* Kremenets Mountains National Nature Park
* Medobory Nature Reserve
* Entrance to Verteba Cave