# Phongsaly province

Phongsaly province (Lao ຜົ້ງສາລີ), also spelled Phôngsali, is a province of Laos in the extreme north of the country. The capital of the province is the city of Phôngsali. Phongsaly is between Yunnan (China), and Điện Biên province in Vietnam. Its culture has been historically influenced by China.
Phongsaly province covers an area of 16,270 square kilometres (6,280 sq mi), of which 77% has forest cover. It borders China to the north and west, Vietnam to the east, Luang Prabang province to the south, and Oudomxai province to the southwest. The highest mountain in the province is Phou Doychy with an elevation of 1,842 metres (6,043 ft). Protected areas in the province include the Phou Dene Din National Biodiversity Conservation Area and Nam Lan Conservation Area.

## Geography

Phongsaly province covers an area of 16,270 square kilometres (6,280 sq mi), out of which 77% has forest cover. The province borders China to the north and west, Vietnam to the east, Luang Prabang province to the south, and Oudomxai province to the southwest. It is located in the mountains, approximately 450–1,800 metres (1,480–5,910 ft) above sea level. The highest mountain in the province is Phou Doychy with an elevation of 1,842 metres (6,043 ft). The Phou Fa hill, at 1,625 metres (5,331 ft), is near the capital city and has road access to the top from where vistas of the city are visible. The top of the mountain is approached by 431 steps. Because of economic commerce with China, portions of the province have been deforested.
Weather in the province is described as "four seasons in a single day" with cold mornings and evenings, humidity during the day, and rains in the afternoon, which has created lush green forests.

### Protected areas

Areas of the province's forests in Phou Den Din NBCA have no human habitation.
The 126,880 hectare Phou Dendin Important Bird Area (IBA) is located within the 222,000 hectare Phou Den Din NBCA. The IBA altitude varies between 500–1,900 metres (1,600–6,200 ft) above sea level. Topographical elements include the Nam Ou River and its catchment, the area at the confluence of the Nam Khang River, mountainous terrain, and slopes. The habitat is characterized by unbroken dry evergreen forest and inland wetlands. Avifauna includes Blyth's kingfisher (Alcedo hercules), brown dipper (Cinclus pallasii), brown hornbill (Anorrhinus tickelli), crested kingfisher (Megaceryle lugubris), great hornbill (Buceros bicornis), lesser fish eagle (Ichthyophaga humilis), and rufous-necked hornbill (Aceros nipalensis).

### Administrative divisions

The province is made up of the following districts (mueang):
| Code | Name | Lao script | Population (2015) |
| 02-01 | Phongsaly District | ຜົ້ງສາລີ | 23,337 |
| 02-02 | May District | ໃໝ່ | 26,361 |
| 02-03 | Khoua District | ຂວາ | 26,164 |
| 02-04 | Samphanh District | ສຳພັນ | 24,420 |
| 02-05 | Boun Neua District | ບຸນເໜືອ | 22,285 |
| 02-06 | Yot Ou District | ຍອດອູ | 31,145 |
| 02-07 | Boun Tay District | ບຸນໃຕ້ | 24,277 |
The northernmost district of the province is Yot Ou, which has a population of 31,000 spread over 98 villages made up of 11 ethnic groups. The majority of the people are farmers. The Lao-Chinese Border Checkpoint is at Lan Tui, which is designated by landmark No. 7.

## History

The Phunoi left Muang Sing or Burma and arrived in Phongsaly at the end of the 18th century. The Hmong settled in Phongsaly at the end of the 19th century, having migrated from southern China. In 1895, a Sino-French treaty transferred the Tai Lue's Sip Song Phan Na principalities of Phongsaly and Muang Sing to French Laos. Between 1908 and 1910, the Tai Lue conducted a revolt against colonial authority. When it ended, the colonial military assumed full authority in Phongsaly. In 1936, Sithon Kommadam and his brother, Kamphanh were jailed in Phongsaly because of their participation in their father's (Ong Kommandam) 1934–1936 armed revolt against the French. After Sithon's release in 1945, he established resistance bases in Phongsaly, later making contact with the Viet Minh. The Communists came into power in 1954 in the province; within 6 years, the Phunoy began experiencing Buddhist religious purges. Subsequent to the 1954 Geneva Accords, Communist Pathet Lao forces in Phongsaly province were provided with regrouping zones. Phongsaly was integrated into the Royal Lao Government on 18 December 1957.

## Demographics

The population of the province is 177,989 as of the 2015 census. There are 13 minority ethnic groups with independent language and culture identity: Khammu, Thai Dam, Thai Daeng, Yao, Leu, Ho (Hani), Hmong, Akha, Yang, Bid, Lolo and others. Each group has its own practices in respect to marriage customs, specific handicrafts, silverware and jewelry.

### Languages

Other than the national language Lao, minority languages are spoken in Phongsaly province, most of which belong to the Tai (Kra-Dai), Hanoish (Tibeto-Burman), and Khmuic (Austroasiatic) branches. The table below lists the languages surveyed in Kingsada (1999), Shintani (2001), and Kato (2008), with autonyms and informant birthplaces given. All languages are spoken in Phongsaly province unless indicated otherwise.
Languages of Phongsaly :
| Language | Autonym | Branch | Locations | Source |
| Lü | taj31 lɯ13 | Tai | U Neua village | Kingsada (1999) |
| Yang | jaŋ13 | Tai | Long Ngai Kao village, Bun Tay District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Tai Nä | taj53 nə35 | Tai | Lantui village, Nyot U District | Shintani (2001) |
| Tai Lam | kon55 taj55 lam22 | Tai | Huayhok village, Nambak District, Luangphabang province | Shintani (2001) |
| Phunoi of Phongxaly | phu21 noiʔ44 | Phunoi | Phongxaly town, Phongxaly District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Phunoi of Bun Tay | phu21 noi44 (bɑ21) | Phunoi | Langne village, Bun Tay District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Phongku | phɔŋ33 ku55 bɔ11 | Phunoi | Phongku Long, Bun Tay District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Lao-Pan | law33 pan11 ba11 | Phunoi | Phaophumuang village, Bun Tay District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Lao-Seng | lao21 sɛŋ21 | Phunoi | Chaho village, Bun Tay District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Laoseng | kha55 | Phunoi | Namnat village, Nyot U District | Kato (2008) |
| Pisu (Lao-Phai) | pi33 su44 | Phunoi | Phudokcham village, Phongxaly District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Phu-Lawa | phɔŋ33 ku55 | Phunoi | Phongkulong village, Bun Tay District | Shintani (2001) |
| Phongset | phoŋ33 set55 | Phunoi | Phongset village, Bun Neua District | Shintani (2001) |
| Phunyot | phu21 ɲɔt11 | Phunoi | Namkang village, Namo District, Oudomxai province | Kato (2008) |
| Ko-Pala | pa33 la33 tshɔ55 ja11 | Akha | Sen Kham village, Khua District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Ko-Oma | kɔ33 ɔ55 ma11 | Akha | Nana village, Phongxaly District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Ko-Phuso | kɔ33 phɯ55 sɔ33 | Akha | Phapung Kao village, Bun Neua District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Ko-Puli | a11 kha11 pu33 li11 | Akha | Culaosaen Kao village, Bun Tay District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Ko-Chipia | a11 kha11 cɛ11 pja11 | Akha | Sano Kao village, Bun Tay District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Ko-Eupa | ɯ21 pa21 | Akha | Cabe village, Bun Tay District | Shintani (2001) |
| Ko-Nyaü | a11 kha11 ɲa11 ɯ55 | Akha | Huayphot village, Khua District | Shintani (2001) |
| Ko-Luma | lu21 ma21 | Akha | Lasamay village, Samphan District | Shintani (2001) |
| Sida (Sila) | go55 ɯ55 a11 ma11 | Akha | Chaohoi village, Nyot U District; Phongsai village, Bun Neua District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Sida | si33 la33 | Akha | Longthang village, Nyot U District; Sida village, Luang Namtha District, Luang Namtha province | Shintani (2001) |
| Sila | ko55 ɯ21 | Akha | Namsing village, Nyot U District | Kato (2008) |
| Wanyä (Muchi) | wa11 ɲə11 | Akha | Ipoeching village, Bun Tay District | Shintani (2001) |
| Hani | ha21ɲi21 | Akha | Sikaoho village, Nyot U District | Kato (2008) |
| Akha Nukui | a21kha21, nu21ɣø21 a21kha21 | Akha | Kungci village, Nyot U District | Kato (2008) |
| Muteun | mɔ21 tɯ21 | Other Loloish | Hunapha village, Namo District, Oudomxai province | Kato (2008) |
| Khongsat | su55 ma33 | Other Loloish | Sutko village, Namo District, Oudomxai province | Kato (2008) |
| Khir | la21 ja21 | Other Loloish | Kang village, Nyot U District | Kato (2008) |
| Phusang | pa33 za33 | Other Loloish | Phusangkao village, Samphan District | Kato (2008) |
| Lolo | lo21 lo33 pho21 | Other Loloish | - | Kato (2008) |
| Khabit | khaa bet | Khmuic | Nale village, Bun Neua District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Khmu | kh(ə)m̥muʔ | Khmuic | Tangkok village, Khua District | Kingsada (1999) |
| Then | pram thɛɛn | Khmuic | Then Sa village, Wiangkham District, Luangphabang province | Shintani (2001) |
| Ho (Han-Chinese) | xan13 tshu11 | Sinitic | Wat Keo village, Phongxaly District | Kingsada (1999) |

## Economy

Phôngsali is the primary trade gateway between Laos and China, exporting lumber and importing types of finished goods. There are Chinese manufacturing companies in the province, along with other foreign investment.
As an economic activity 24 villages have been identified to install mini hydro-power projects with pico-turbines to provide electric supply utilizing the hydro power potential of the hilly areas which have monsoon rainfall. Local material will be used for construction of civil works and villagers trained to plan, implement and operate the units including maintenance of all components of the project covering transmission lines. The objective is to reduce poverty among the rural poor of the remote villages. The project is proposed for implementation at a cost of Euro 210,000 with 48% financing by the Energy and Environment Partnership (EEP)of Mekong with Electriciens Sand Frontieres as lead partner. The project is slated for implementation over a 20 months period.
In order to reduce the addiction to opium, the United Nations Organization on Drugs and Crime (UNODC) introduced the Phongsaly Alternative Development Fund Project for Opium Elimination and the LAOK46 Phongsaly Alternative Livelihood and Food Security Project (PALAFS)]] covering 30 villages in Khoua and Mai districts, and minimise opium addiction in 60 villages in Samphan district, through alternative development activities. During the final years of the 20th century, 3,872 ha of the province had opium poppy cultivation (20% of the national total production) with 513 villages out of 611 growing opium with an addiction rate of 5.6%. Phongsaly has the maximum number of districts below the poverty line.

## Landmarks

Landmarks in the province are the Wat Ou-Tai Temple, the Wat Luang Ou-Neua Temple and the That Phou Xay Stupa.
The Wat Ou-Tai Temple is in the Ban Ou-Tai village. It was built by Praya Chakkawattiraja and is said to be 500 years old. The Hor Thane Keo, inside the monastery, is a specific sanctum where Buddha images are deified. This sanctum is built with mud and has types of decorations retained in its original form. The wooden columns of the shrine are supported over on stone blocks; these have been designed and painted with drawings of daggers, swords, flowers and flags, and all carved in wood. There is a shrine built in brick masonry within the monastery complex which is called "Ou Bo Sot" (meaning a place where monks meet and conduct religious rites) by the Tai Lue ethnic groups.
Wat Luang Ou-Neua Temple is built about 500 years ago in Ban Ou Neua village. The temple has a double overlapping roof in the Lue architecture style. It is adorned with traditional fine art techniques and houses. A Buddha image and Buddha statues are deified inside this temple.
That Phou Xay Stupa is at the top of a hill, approached by walking up 400 steps.