# Pangi Valley

Pangi is a tehsil of Chamba, Himachal Pradesh, India. According to 2011 census of India Pangi valley has a total population of 18868. It is an administrative subdivision of the Chamba district situated in the northern extreme of the state. Sandwiched between two mighty mountain ranges, the zanskar range in the North and the Pir Panjal Range in the South it is an isolated valley. In southern side it shares boundaries with Lahaul and Spiti and in eastern side with Jammu and Kashmir. Chandrabhaga cuts across the terrain in a deep narrow gorge before entering Doda region of Jammu and Kashmir. With its deep river gorges and barren mountain peaks, it offers a wide range of scenery and vegetation. Till recently, this valley was the remotest Tribal area of Himachal Pradesh where road access to the rest of the state was established only in the mid-1990s. So forbidding was this snowy range regarded in former times of the Princely regime, that every State official proceeding to Pangi on duty was granted a special allowance, under the head of ‘‘funeral expenses”, as his return, alive or dead, was not taken at all to be a matter of certainty or even of high expectation.

## History

The history of Pangi can be inferred from some inscriptions, legends, and traditions. There are a few scattered pieces of evidence that, when gathered, reveal the pages of Pangi's history. Before the rule of the princely states, there must have been a period of local governance, as is evident from the Caste system. There are also some legends that suggest the Pangwal tribal people migrated here from neighboring areas. It is possible that occasionally, owing to political influence, part of central Asian trade deviated from its original course and followed the less accessible valley of Cinab,but under ordinary circumstances it must always have returned to its natural channels.
Earliest known evidence of human settlements comes from the stone inscriptions at Luj and salhi. The inscription at Luj was erected by some local Rana of that time. It contains a verified description of the year when King Jasht Varman of Chamba ascended the throne. The inscription clearly states that this stone was erected during the first year of King Jasht Varman's reign. The establishment year is noted as samvat 8, which corresponds to the year 1105 AD. From this year onward, the chronology of the Chamba kings became accurate. The inscription suggests that At that time, the kingdom of Chamba extended up to the village of Luj in Pangi.
The inscription at salhi reveals that the stone was established in the 27th year of King Lalit Varman's reign by a rana named Rajanaka Ludarpal. The year of establishment is given as Shastra Samvat 46, which was in use in the Chamba kingdom at that time. Upon calculating the timeline, King Lalit Varman's reign is determined to have started in 1143 CE, and his 27th year corresponds to 1170 CE. On that stone, Pangi was referred to as "पंगति", while in the local language, people called it "पैंगइ". These stone inscriptions suggest that local ranas ruled the area under the suzerainty of the kings of Chamba. The descendants of these ranas still live humble peasant lives in the area.
Next king to take complete control of Pangi valley was Prithvi Singh.Prithvi singh's father was dethroned by Jagat Singh of Nurpur. Prithvi Singh asked and obtained help in money and troops from the rajas of Mandi and Suket, to enable him to recover his kingdom. Passing through kullu, he crossed the Rohtang Pass into Lahaul and advanced into Pangi. He visited Mindhala temple and presented an inscription on a copper plate to the temple. Thereafter he crossed the Chanaini Pass and moved through Churah, and regained his throne at Chamba, expelling the Nurpur officials from the state. Prithvi Singh divided Pangi ilaqa into three parganas with their chief places at Sach,Killar and Dharwas.He also ordered the construction of State Kothis at these places and appointed state representatives at these Kothis. A little farther down near the village of Phindru the path has been partly hewn out of the solid rock. This was probably done in the reign of Prithvi Singh, as appears from rock-inscription containing the name of him and dated sastra 18 corresponding to A.D. 1642–3. The temple of Malasni Devi at Porthi village also bears an inscription of Prithvi Singh dated Sastra-Samvat 27 (A.D.1651).
Other royal inscriptions in Pangi include two fountain stones at Porthi which were constructed in the reign of Ugar Singh in Sastra Samvat 1 (A.D.1725). The state Kothi at Sach also has an inscription in Takri recording the foundation of building by Raja Ugar singh in Samvat 1 (A.D.1725).
After the defeat of Sikhs in Punjab the area opened up to the British. In 1864, major Blair Reid who was British superintendent to chamba state convinced the Raja to transfer the management of forests of chamba state including the forests of Pangi to the British Government. This was formalized through a lease agreement dated 10 September 1864 for a duration of 99 years, with provisions for revision every 20 years. Under the terms of the lease, the British Government agreed to pay the state an annual amount of Rs. 22,000. As a result, the forests of the valley were placed under the direct control of the Imperial Forest Department.The British extensively felled trees from the forests in the region, employing large-scale logging practices. The timber was floated downriver to the plains, where it was extracted and utilized for various purposes, including the construction of railway infrastructure and other projects. There was a famine in the valley in 1878–79 due to the early arrival of winter and the destruction of crops. Grain had to be imported from curah. Potatoes were introduced to the valley in 1878 by R.T. Burney, then superintendent of Chamba State.
Pangi Valley experienced a catastrophic avalanche disaster during the first and second weeks of March 1979. Unseasonal snowfall of 4.5–6 meters was received, burying villages and destroying crops. A total of 232 people were killed, and 523 were reported missing in Lahaul and Pangi areas.

## Geography

The Pangi Valley is characterized by extremely difficult and rugged terrain with harsh climatic conditions. The landlocked Pangi is squeezed between two sub-systems of the Himalayas, the Zanskar Range and the Pir Panjal Range, resulting in a predominantly mountainous landscape dotted with numerous valleys. The valley's altitudinal range varies from approximately 2,000 meters at Sansari Nallah to over 6,000 meters, encompassing the lofty peaks near the Zanskar Range. Several peaks within this valley remain unclimbed to date. Pangi features several beautiful sub-valleys, including the Sural Valley, Hudan Valley, Saichu Valley, and Parmar Valley, many of which provide routes leading to the Zanskar Range.
From a biogeographical perspective, the Pangi region lies in the transition zone between the Himalayas and the Trans-Himalayas. This is reflected in the region's faunal composition, which exhibits a blend of elements from both zones. This unique combination makes the Pangi Valley one of the most faunistically diverse areas in the western Himalayas and a priority region for conservation.
The river Chandrabhaga flows through the entire length of the valley, covering a distance of nearly 85 kilometers from Karru Nallah to Sansari Nallah. The river originates from the mountains of the Baralacha Pass. The Chandrabhaga divides the Pangi Valley into two unequal parts: the larger right bank, which gradually rises to the Zanskar range, and the narrow left flank, which ascends steeply towards the Pir Panjal range. The main tributaries of the Chandrabhaga in the Pangi Valley are Karru Nallah and Saichu Nallah. The Saichu Nallah joins the Chandrabhaga from the right near the settlement of Cherry Bungalow. The Saichu Nallah is further fed by several tributaries, the chief among which are Twan, Saichu, and Chasak, which converge at Saichu village. Several small streams originating from the Zanskar Range feed the river on its right bank. The waters of the Chandrabhaga are grey in color during summer due to the melting snow from its numerous sources.

## Climate

By virtue of its geographic location beyond the reach of the tropical monsoon rains, the agro-climatic conditions of the Pangi Valley fall under the cold and dry zone. The overall climate of the valley is semi-arid, typical of the inner Himalayas. It is characterized by cool summers with little rainfall and severe winters. Heavy snowfall, strong winds, and frequent avalanches during winters confine people to their homes. During the peak winter months, the minimum temperature throughout the valley plummets well below zero degrees Celsius. Snowfall begins in higher altitudes after mid-October and reaches lower elevations by mid-December. Most areas receive heavy snowfall, ranging between 3,000 and 4,700 mm, from December to March, while the lofty peaks remain under perpetual snow cover. During this time, most streams freeze, and the valley becomes completely isolated due to heavy snow blocking all access routes. The aerial route remains the only way to reach Pangi during winter. The state government maintains a helicopter service for emergency situations. The weather begins to improve in April, and by June–July, daytime temperatures in the valley reach a comfortable 28 degrees Celsius. However, the side valleys of Pangi, such as Sural, Hudan, and Saichu, remain significantly colder, often experiencing foggy and chilly afternoons even during the summer months.

## Flora and fauna

Being located in the transition zone between the Himalayas and the Trans-Himalayas, the Pangi Valley exhibits a unique mix of floral and faunal elements from both regions. It is also one of the most faunistically diverse areas in the western Himalayas. Due to its remoteness and low population density (approximately 9 people per square kilometer), the anthropogenic pressure on the environment is relatively low, and the forest cover remains largely intact in most parts of the region. As a result, the Pangi Valley represents a potentially ideal sanctuary for a variety of wild animal species.
The Chandrabhaga Valley is dominated by deodar forests with some blue pine or kail and fir stands at higher elevations. Particularly on the left bank, the deodar forests have large patches of scrub and some grasses. Undergrowth is rare in the coniferous forests, but in depressions, moist and open slopes, other broadleaved species do occur. Depressions and moist slopes also have patches of broadleaved forests dominated by species such as hazelnut, walnut, maple, elm, willow, and poplar. Further downstream near Luj, Chilgoza pine and horse chestnut trees are also present in substantial proportions. All along the lower valley are open patches with grass and sedges with scattered trees.
Most valleys on the right bank of the Chenab are east-west flowing, presenting a clear north and south face. The north-facing slopes are dominated mostly by birch forests up to an elevation of approximately 3,800 meters, which are sometimes interspersed with willow and honeysuckle. Beyond this, patches of dense willow scrub exist up to approximately 4,000 meters. In the lower Seichu Valley, the northern slopes are dominated by kail and deodar, while birch dominates above approximately 3,200 meters. In the entire valley, above the birch and willows, are alpine meadows with relatively high cover of forbs and graminoids.
The valley also supports a diverse range of fauna adapted to its high-altitude environment. Herbivorous species include the Asiatic ibex, Himalayan tahr, Himalayan musk deer, grey goral, Himalayan serow, markhor, hangul, and long-tailed marmot. Predatory mammals found in the valley include the elusive snow leopard, brown bear, Himalayan black bear, Tibetan wolf, and red fox. These species contribute to the rich biodiversity of the region, reflecting the unique ecological characteristics of the Pangi Valley. A few interesting patterns can be noted regarding occurrence of species. True Himalayan species such as the Himalayan tahr and serow are confined to the left bank of the river, while the right bank is home to the more Trans-Himalayan elements such as the ibex and the snow leopard. Other ‘Himalayan’ species such as the black bear, musk deer and goral occurred on the right bank also, but were more confined in distribution.

## Demographics

Pangi Tehsil of Chamba district has a total population of 18,868 as per the Census 2011. Out of which 9,579 are males while 9,289 are females. The Sex Ratio of Pangi Tehsil is 970.