# Jakob Schubert

Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three-time World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event (2020 and 2024).
As of 2023, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history.
In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is the only climber in the world to have both redpointed a 9c (5.15d) graded sport climbing route and climbed a 9A (V17) graded bouldering problem.

## Climbing career
### Competition climbing

Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.
In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco. The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).
In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.
In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.
In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.
Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, where he won the bronze medal in the combined event.
Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport. He followed that up by winning the combined event, which qualified him to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.
He won a second consecutive bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.

### Rock climbing

In 2023, Schubert became the only person in the world to have climbed the top grade in both bouldering and sport climbing.

## Rankings
### Climbing World Cup

| Discipline | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 |
| Lead | 26 | 7 | 4 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 6 | 1 |
| Bouldering | | | 60 | 65 | 19 | 3 | 2 | - | 25 | 23 | 10 | 9 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 43 | 59 | - | - | - | - | 59 |
| Combined | - | - | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | - | 4 | 2 | 6 | 1 |

### Climbing World Championships

Youth
| Discipline | 2004 Youth B | 2005 Youth B | 2006 Youth A | 2007 Youth A | 2008 Juniors | 2009 Juniors |
| Lead | 33 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Adult
| Discipline | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2023 |
| Lead | 26 | 2 | 1 | 5 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 1 |
| Bouldering | - | - | - | - | - | 10 | 2 | 27 | 12 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 110 | 59 | - | - |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | - | 1 | 2 | - | 1 |

### Climbing European Championships

| Discipline | 2008 | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
| Lead | 6 | 3 | 7 | 6 | 3 |
| Bouldering | - | - | 3 | 4 | - |
| Speed | - | - | 35 | 27 | 31 |

## Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup
### Lead

| Season | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
| 2004 | Youth B | | | 1 | 1 |
| 2005 | Youth B | | | 1 | 1 |
| 2006 | Youth A | 3 | 1 | 1 | 5 |
| Total | Total | 3 | 1 | 3 | 7 |

## Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
### Lead

| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
| 2008 | | 1 | | 1 |
| 2009 | 1 | | 1 | 2 |
| 2010 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 4 |
| 2011 | 7 | 1 | 1 | 9 |
| 2012 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 5 |
| 2013 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
| 2014 | 2 | 1 | 2 | 5 |
| 2015 | | 2 | 2 | 4 |
| 2016 | | 2 | 3 | 5 |
| 2017 | 2 | | 1 | 3 |
| 2018 | 2 | 3 | | 5 |
| 2019 | | | 1 | 1 |
| 2020 | | | 1 | 1 |
| 2021 | 1 | | | 1 |
| 2023 | 1 | | 1 | 2 |
| 2024 | 1 | | | 1 |
| Total | 21 | 17 | 16 | 54 |

### Bouldering

| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
| 2011 | | 1 | | 1 |
| 2012 | 1 | | 1 | 2 |
| 2013 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
| 2018 | | | 1 | 1 |
| 2019 | 1 | | 1 | 2 |
| 2021 | | | 1 | 1 |
| 2024 | | | 1 | 1 |
| Total | 3 | 2 | 6 | 11 |

## Number of medals in the Olympics
### Combined

| Summer Olympics | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
| 2020 | | | 1 | 1 |
| 2024 | | | 1 | 1 |
| Total | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 |

## Notable ascents
### Redpointed routes

9c (5.15d):
   * B.I.G. – Flatanger (Norway) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent and third-ever proposed at 9c.
9b+ (5.15c):
   * Perfecto Mundo – Margalef (ESP) – November 9, 2019 – Third ascent (first by Alexander Megos).
9b (5.15b):
   * The Flame - Austria (AUT) – 2023 – First ascent
   * Erebor – Arco (ITA) – 2022 – Repeat ascent of Stefano Ghisolfi's route.
   * King Capella – Siurana (ESP) – 2021 – Third ascent of William Bosi's route.
   * Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma.
   * El Bon Combat – Cova de I'Ocell (ESP) – December 1, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma.
   * Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 5, 2018 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013).
   * La Planta da Shiva – Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) – January 4, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra.
   * Fight or flight – Oliana (ESP) – December 31, 2014 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011).
9a+ (5.15a)
   * Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – October, 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route.
   * Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 9, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
   * Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP) – January 8, 2017
   * Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – January 2, 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
   * Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP) – December 27, 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
   * Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR) – May 29, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
   * Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT) – November 18, 2015 – First ascent
   * Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – April 27, 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)
9a (5.14d):
   * Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal (AUT) – November 8, 2016 – First ascent
   * Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT) – October 15, 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama
   * Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 3, 2013
   * Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013
   * Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 2, 2013
   * Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2012
   * Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 24, 2012
   * Martin Krpan – Misja Pec (SVN) – November 21, 2011
   * Hades – Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – May 30, 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008
   * Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – March 30, 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

### Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):
   * Aitzol – Margalef (ESP) – April 23, 2011

### Boulder problems

    9A (V17)
   * Alphane – Chironico (CHE) – December 21, 2023
    8C (V15)
   * Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT) – November 20, 2018
    8B+ (V14)
   * Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP) – January 13, 2019 – flashed
   * Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT) – March 25, 2018
   * Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE) January 10, 2020