# Henri Mouhot

Alexandre Henri Mouhot (15 May 1826 – 10 November 1861) was a French naturalist and explorer of the mid-19th century. He was born in Montbéliard, Doubs, France, near the Swiss border. He died near Luang-Prabang, Laos. He is remembered mostly in connection to Angkor. Mouhot's tomb is located just outside of Ban Phanom, to the east of Luang Prabang.

## Early life

Mouhot traveled throughout Europe with his brother Charles, studying photographic techniques developed by Louis Daguerre. In 1856, he began devoting himself to the study of natural science. Upon reading The Kingdom and People of Siam by Sir John Bowring in 1857, Mouhot decided to travel to Indochina to conduct a series of botanical expeditions for the collection of new zoological specimens. His initial requests for grants and passage were rejected by French companies and the government of Napoleon III. The Royal Geographical Society and the Zoological Society of London lent him their support, and he set sail for Bangkok, via Singapore.

## Expeditions

From his base in Bangkok in 1858, Mouhot made four journeys into the interior of Siam, Cambodia and Laos. Over a period of three years before he died, he endured extreme hardships and fended off wild animals, to explore some previously uncharted jungle territory.
On his first expedition, he visited Ayutthaya, the former capital of Siam (already charted territory), and gathered an extensive collection of insects, as well as terrestrial and river shells, and sent them on to England.
In January 1860, at the end of his second and longest journey, he reached Angkor (already charted territory) — an area spread over more than 400 km$^2$., consisting of many sites of ancient terraces, pools, moated cities, palaces and temples, the most famous of which is Angkor Wat. He recorded this visit in his travel journals, which included three weeks of detailed observations. These journals and illustrations were later incorporated into Voyage dans les royaumes de Siam, de Cambodge, de Laos which were published posthumously.

### Angkor

Mouhot is often mistakenly credited with "discovering" Angkor, although Angkor was never lost — the location and existence of the entire series of Angkor sites was always known to the Khmers and had been visited by several westerners since the 16th century. Mouhot mentions in his journals that his contemporary Father Charles Emile Bouillevaux, a French missionary based in Battambang, had reported that he and other Western explorers and missionaries had visited Angkor Wat and the other Khmer temples at least five years before Mouhot. Father Bouillevaux published his accounts in 1857: "Travel in Indochina 1848–1846, The Annam and Cambodia". Previously, a Portuguese trader Diogo do Couto visited Angkor and wrote his accounts about it in 1550, and the Portuguese monk Antonio da Magdalena had also written about his visit to Angkor Wat in 1586. Mouhot did, however, popularise Angkor in the West.
Perhaps none of the previous European visitors wrote as evocatively as Mouhot, who included interesting and detailed sketches. In his posthumously published Travels in Siam, Cambodia and Laos, Mouhot compared Angkor to the pyramids, for it was popular in the West at that time to ascribe the origin of all civilization to the Middle East. For example, he described the Buddha heads at the gateways to Angkor Thom as "four immense heads in the Egyptian style" and wrote of Angkor:
   "One of these temples—a rival to that of Solomon, and erected by some ancient Michael Angelo—might take an honourable place beside our most beautiful buildings. It is grander than anything left to us by Greece or Rome, and presents a sad contrast to the state of barbarism in which the nation is now plunged."
Mouhot also wrote that:
   "At Ongcor, there are ...ruins of such grandeur... that, at the first view, one is filled with profound admiration, and cannot but ask what has become of this powerful race, so civilized, so enlightened, the authors of these gigantic works?"
Such quotations may have given rise to the popular misconception that Mouhot had found the abandoned ruins of a lost civilisation. The Royal Geographical Society and The Zoological Society, both interested in announcing new finds, seemed to have encouraged the rumor that Mouhot — whom they had sponsored to chart mountains and rivers and catalog new species — had discovered Angkor. Mouhot himself erroneously asserted that Angkor was the work of an earlier civilization than the Khmer. For although the very same civilization which built Angkor was alive and right before his eyes, he considered them in a "state of barbarism" and could not believe they were civilized or enlightened enough to have built it. He assumed that the authors of such grandeur were a disappeared race and mistakenly dated Angkor back over two millennia, to around the same era as Rome. The true history of Angkor Wat was later pieced together from the book The Customs of Cambodia written by Temür Khan's envoy Zhou Daguan to Cambodia in 1295–1296 and from stylistic and epigraphic evidence accumulated during the subsequent clearing and restoration work carried out across the whole Angkor site. It is now known that the dates of Angkor's habitation were from the early ninth century to the early 15th century.

### Itinerary in Southeast Asia

Henri Mouhot's exploration covered 4,955 kilometers in Southeast Asia, in three years, six months and 13 days. The exact itinerary, as listed in Le Tour du Monde ("Around the World" journal), is as follows:
| Stage | Locality (period name) | Locality (current name) | Chapter from Le Tour du Monde | Arrival | Departure |
| Preparation ||||||
| 1 | London | London | I | 27 April 1858 | |
| 2 | Singapore | Singapore | I | 3 September 1858 | |
| 3 | Paknam | Pak Nam | I | 12 September 1858 | |
| 4 | Bangkok | Bangkok | II - V | | 19 October 1858 |
| First expedition (256 km) ||||||
| 5 | Ajuthia | Ayutthaya | VI | 23 October 1858 | |
| 6 | Arajiek, Phrabat | Phra Phuttabat | VII | 13 November 1858 | 14 November 1858 |
| 7 | Patawi | Phra Phutthachai | VIII | 28 November 1858 | |
| 8 | Bangkok | Bangkok | VIII | 5 December 1858 | 23 December 1858 |
| Second expedition (2,399 km) ||||||
| 9 | Chantaboun Gulf, Lion's Rock | Laem Sing | IX | 3 January 1859 | |
| 10 | Chantaboun | Chanthaburi | IX | 4 January 1859 | |
| 11 | Ile de Ko-Man | Ko Man Nork | IX | 26 January 1859 | |
| 12 | Ile des Patates et ile de Ko-Kram | Ko Khram | IX | 28 January 1859 | |
| 13 | Ile de l'Arec | Chanthaburi | X | 29 January 1859 | |
| 14 | Ven-Ven | Pak Nam Welu | X | 1 March 1859 | |
| 15 | Chute de Kombau, grotte du Mont Sabab | Namtok Phlio National Park | X | | |
| 16 | Chantaboun | Chanthaburi | XI | | |
| 17 | Ko-Khut | Ko Kood | XI | | |
| 18 | Koh-Khong | Koh Kong | XI | | |
| 19 | Kampot | Kampot | XI | | |
| 20 | Kompong-Baïe | Kompong Bay | XI | | |
| 21 | Udong | Oudongk | XII | | |
| 22 | Pinhalu | Ponhea Leu | XIII | 2 July 1859 | |
| 23 | Penom Penh | Phnom Penh | XIV | | |
| 24 | Ile de Ko Sutin | Kaoh Soutin | XV | | |
| 25 | Pemptiélan | Peam Chilӗang | XV | | |
| 26 | Brelum | Bro Lam Peh | XV | 16 August 1859 | 29 November 1859 |
| 27 | Pemptiélan | Peam Chilӗang | XVI | | |
| 28 | Pinhalu | Ponhea Leu | XVI | 21 December 1859 | |
| 29 | Penom Penh | Phnom Penh | XVI | | |
| 30 | Lac du Touli-Sap | Lac du Tonlé Sap | XVI | | |
| 31 | Battambang | Battambang | XVII | | 20 January 1860 |
| 32 | Ongkor | Angkor | XVIII | 22 January 1860 | 12 February 1860 |
| 33 | Mont Ba-Khêng | Phnom Bakheng | XIX | | |
| 34 | Battambang | Battambang | XXI | | 5 March 1860 |
| 35 | Ongkor-Borège | Mongkol Borey | XXI | 8 March 1860 | 9 March 1860 |
| 36 | Muang Kabine | Kabinburi | XXI | 28 March 1860 | |
| 37 | Bangkok | Bangkok | XXI | 4 April 1860 | 8 May 1860 |
| Third expedition (1,250 km) ||||||
| 38 | Petchabury | Petchaburi | XXII | 11 May 1860 | |
| 39 | Bangkok | Bangkok | XXIII | 1 September 1860 | |
| 40 | Nophabury | Lopburi | XXIV | | |
| 41 | Ajuthia | Ayutthaya | XXIV | | 19 October 1860 |
| 42 | Tharua-Tristard | Tha Ruea | XXIV | 20 October 1860 | |
| 43 | Saohaïe | Sao Hai | XXIV | 22 October 1860 | |
| 44 | Khao Koc | Wat Tha Khlo Tai | XXV | | |
| 45 | Tchaïapoune | Chaiyaphum | XXVI | 28 February 1861 | |
| 46 | Saraburi | Saraburi | XXVI | | |
| 47 | Bangkok | Bangkok | XXVI | | 12 April 1861 |
| Fourth expédition (1,050 km) ||||||
| 48 | Sikiéou | Si Khiu | XXVI | | |
| 49 | Korat | Nakhon Ratchasima | XXVI | | |
| 50 | Penom-Wat | Prasat Phanom Wan | XXVI | | |
| 51 | Tchaïapoune | Chaiyaphum | XXVII | | |
| 52 | Nam-Jasiea | Non Kok | XXVII | | |
| 53 | Poukiéau | Phu Khiao | XXVII | | |
| 54 | Leuye | Loei | XXVII | 16 May 1861 | |
| 55 | Paklaïe | Pak Lay | XXVII | 24 June 1861 | |
| 56 | Thodua | Tha Deua | XXVII | | |
| 57 | Luang Prabang | Luang Prabang | XXVII | 25 July 1861 | |
| 58 | Na-Lê | Na Le | XXVIII | 3 September 1861 | 15 October 1861 |
Link to the itinerary on Google Maps

## Colonialism

Some have argued that Mouhot may have been a tool for French expansionism and the annexation of territories which followed shortly after his death. Mouhot himself, however, did not seem to be a hardcore colonialist, for he occasionally doubted the beneficial effects of European colonisation:
   "Will the present movement of the nations of Europe towards the East result in good by introducing into these lands the blessings of our civilization? Or shall we, as blind instruments of boundless ambition, come hither as a scourge, to add to their present miseries?"
However, Mouhot appears in his notes as genuinely interested in South East Asia and its culture, and kept in mind the benefits he thought France could provide to those countries. He notably wrote in the Tour du Monde:
Page 174: " European domination, the abolition of slavery, protective and wise laws, and faithful, experienced and scrupulously honest administrators, would alone be capable of regenerating this State, so close to Cochinchina, where France is seeking to establish itself and where it will undoubtedly establish itself; then it would certainly become a granary of abundance, as fertile as lower Cochinchina ".
Page 175: "People are astonished to see insignificant production and no industry in these regions that are so fertile and so rich, but they are generally unaware that the kings and mandarins enrich themselves through despoilment and corruption, through all the abuses that ruin work and halt progress. Let this country be administered with wisdom and prudence, with loyalty and protection for the people, and everything will change with marvellous rapidity.”
Mouhot also highlighted he saw France already provided Cambodia, at his time: (page 179) "Had it not been for the war that France has been waging against the Empire of Annam for the past two years, it is probable that today the last hour would have sounded for the little kingdom of Cambodia, whose destiny, with little doubt, is to die out and be assimilated into the neighbouring peoples.”

## Death and legacy

Mouhot died of a malarial fever on his fourth expedition, in the jungles of Laos. He had been visiting Luang Prabang, capital of the Lan Xang kingdom, one of three kingdoms which eventually merged into what can be known as modern-day Laos, and was under the patronage of the king. Two of his servants buried him near a French mission in Naphan, by the banks of the Nam Khan river. Mouhot's favourite servant, Phrai, transported all of Mouhot's journals and specimens back to Bangkok, from where they were shipped to Europe.
In 1867 the French commander Ernest Doudart de Lagrée of the Mekong_expedition_of_1866–1868, following an order from the Governor of Cochinchina, built a small monument near where they believed Mouhot's grave would have been. De Lagrée gave this eulogy:
   "We found everywhere the memory of our compatriot who, by the uprightness of his character and his natural benevolence, had acquired the regard and the affection of the natives."
Sixteen years later when the French explorer Dr Paul Neis travelled up the Nam Khan river he found only "a few bricks scattered on the ground". In 1887 [Auguste_Pavie]] arranged for a more durable crypt monument to be built, and a sala was built nearby to house and feed visitors to the white shrine. Some restoration work was done on the tomb in 1951 by the EFEO (Ecole Française d'Extrème Orient—The French School of the Far East).
During the years of the Second Indochina War Mouhot's tomb was consumed by the jungle and lost until it was rediscovered in 1989 by French scholar, Jean-Michel Strobino, together with Mongkhol Sasorith, a Lao historian. Strobino organised restoration of the monument with the support of the French embassy and the Municipality of Montbeliard, Mouhot's birth town. A new plaque was fixed to one end of the crypt in 1990 to commemorate this rediscovery. The location is now known to hotels and tourist operators in Luang Prabang, and a minivan or "tuk tuk" may be hired to take one the 10 km from town to visit it. This entails a walk down a steep track to the left of a sharp bend on the road to Luang Prabang Railway Station. Passing several small restaurants that now operate along the river at this point and then up a well-cleared track to the tomb, altogether about 250 meters (2025).
The popularity of Angkor generated by Mouhot's writings led to the popular support for a major French role in its study and preservation. The French carried out the majority of research work on Angkor until recently.
Two species of Asian reptiles are named in his honor: Cuora mouhotii, a turtle; and Oligodon mouhoti, a snake.

## Works

Mouhot's travel journals are immortalized in Voyage dans les royaumes de Siam, de Cambodge, de Laos et autres parties centrales de l'Indochine (published 1863, 1864). English title: Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China, Cambodia and Laos During the Years 1858,1859, and 1860.
* Travels in Siam, Cambodia, Laos, and Annam. Henri Mouhot ISBN 974-8434-03-6
* Travels in Siam, Cambodia and Laos, 1858-1860 Henri Mouhot, Michael Smithies - ISBN 0-19-588614-3
* Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860. Mouhot, Henri—ISBN 974-8495-11-6 (B/W illustrations)