# Speed climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Speed climbing competitions at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup were to be held at two locations, from 28 May to 3 July 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had originally scheduled six speed climbing events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.
The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

## Overview

| Date | Location | Venue | Men | Women |
| May, 28–30 | Salt Lake City, United States | Industry SLC | Veddriq Leonardo | Aleksandra Mirosław |
| July, 1–3 | Villars, Switzerland | Place du Rendez-Vous | Veddriq Leonardo | Ekaterina Barashchuk |
| OVERALL WINNERS | OVERALL WINNERS | OVERALL WINNERS | Veddriq Leonardo | Emma Hunt |
| NATIONAL TEAM | NATIONAL TEAM | NATIONAL TEAM | Indonesia | Indonesia |

## Records broken

| Event | Round | Climber | Location | Time | Date |
| Men's speed | Qualification | Kiromal Katibin | Salt Lake City, USA | 5.258 | May 28, 2021 |
| Men's speed | Final | Veddriq Leonardo | Salt Lake City, USA | 5.208 | May 28, 2021 |

## Competition format

The speed wall is standardized: 15 meters high, 5 degrees overhanging, same route.
In the qualifications, athletes race in both lane a and lane b; only their best times are recorded and used for seeding. Sixteen fastest athletes in the qualifications progress into the finals where athletes are seeded and raced head-to-head against.each other.

## Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are four competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

### Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:
| Rank | Name | Points | Salt Lake City | Villars |
| 1 | Veddriq Leonardo | 200 | 1. 100 | 1. 100 |
| 2 | Kiromal Katibin | 145 | 2. 80 | 3. 65 |
| 3 | Marcin Dzieński | 96 | 3. 65 | 11. 31 |
| 4 | John Brosler | 81 | 4. 55 | 13. 26 |
| 5 | Dmitrii Timofeev | 80 | — | 2. 80 |
| 6 | Pierre Rebreyend | 59 | 7. 43 | 18. 16 |
| 7 | Vladislav Deulin | 55 | — | 4. 55 |
| 8 | Merritt Ernsberger | 51 | 5. 51 | — |
| 8 | Mehdi Alipour Shenazandifard | 51 | — | 5. 51 |
| 10 | Yaroslav Tkach | 50 | 8. 40 | 21. 10 |

### Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:
| Rank | Name | Points | Salt Lake City | Villars |
| 1 | Emma Hunt | 131 | 2. 80 | 5. 51 |
| 2 | Patrycja Chudziak | 120 | 4. 55 | 3. 65 |
| 3 | Aleksandra Mirosław | 100* | 1. 100 | — |
| 3 | Ekaterina Barashchuk | 100* | — | 1. 100 |
| 5 | Anouck Jaubert | 94* | 5. 51 | 7. 43 |
| 5 | Natalia Kalucka | 94* | 6. 47 | 6. 47 |
| 7 | Iuliia Kaplina | 85 | — | 2. 80 |
| 8 | Capucine Viglione | 74 | 8. 40 | 10. 34 |
| 9 | Miho Nonaka | 65 | 3. 65 | — |
| 10 | Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi | 55 | — | 4. 55 |
* = Joint place with another athlete

### National teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Speed World Cup 2021:
Country names as used by the IFSC
| Rank | Nation | Points | Salt Lake City | Villars |
| 1 | Indonesia | 503 | 4. 180.0 | 2. 323.0 |
| 2 | Poland | 447 | 2. 267.0 | 3. 180.0 |
| 3 | United States | 396.8 | 1. 276.0 | 5. 120.8 |
| 4 | Russia | 384 | — | 1. 384.0 |
| 5 | France | 340 | 3. 207.0 | 4. 133.0 |
| 6 | | 140.55 | 5. 139.55 | 15. 1.0 |
| 7 | Italy | 132.5 | 7. 75.0 | 7. 57.5 |
| 8 | Ukraine | 130 | 6. 95.0 | 10. 35.0 |
| 9 | Austria | 101.8 | 8. 63.9 | 9. 37.9 |
| 10 | | 85.85 | 9. 63.0 | 12. 22.85 |

## Salt Lake City, United States (May, 28–30)
### Men

38 men attended the event.
Kiromal Katibin of Indonesia set a world record time of 5.258 seconds in qualifying, a record that was broken the same day by fellow Indonesian, Veddriq Leonardo, who hit the buzzer at 5.20 in the final run against Katibin. Poland's Marcin Dzieński placed third after beating American John Brosler in the small final.
| Rank | Name | Qual. | 1/8 | 1/4 | 1/2 | Small | Final |
| | Veddriq Leonardo | 5.37 | 5.55 | 5.42 | 5.38 | | 5.20 |
| | Kiromal Katibin | 5.25 | 5.49 | wildcard | 5.35 | | fall |
| | Marcin Dzieński | 5.90 | 6.22 | 5.88 | 5.77 | 5.84 | |
| 4 | John Brosler | 5.60 | 5.72 | 5.98 | 5.76 | 6.89 | |
| 5 | Merritt Ernsberger | 6.19 | 7.82 | 6.13 | | | |
| 6 | Jun Yasukawa | 6.253 | 6.18 | 6.23 | | | |
| 7 | Pierre Rebreyend | 6.14 | 5.94 | FS | | | |
| 8 | Yaroslav Tkach | 6.17 | 6.50 | fall | | | |
| 9 | Ludovico Fossali | 6.09 | 5.95 | | | | |
| 10 | Guillaume Moro | 6.36 | 6.12 | | | | |
| 11 | Mickaël Mawem | 6.28 | 6.79 | | | | |
| 12 | Michael Finn-Henry | 6.255 | 7.79 | | | | |
| 13 | Gian Luca Zodda | 6.06 | 7.88 | | | | |
| 14 | Kostiantyn Pavlenko | 6.02 | 8.28 | | | | |
| 15 | Carlos Granja | 6.03 | 8.73 | | | | |
| 16 | Linus Bader | 6.32 | 11.09 | | | | |

### Women

24 women attended the event.
Poland's Aleksandra Mirosław took the win after winning a tight race against the United States' Emma Hunt who took second place. A non-speed-specialist Japan's Miho Nonaka placed third after beating Poland's Patrycja Chudziak in the small final.
| Rank | Name | Qual. | 1/8 | 1/4 | 1/2 | Small | Final |
| | Aleksandra Mirosław | 7.20 | 7.83 | 7.59 | 7.40 | | 7.38 |
| | Emma Hunt | 7.52 | 7.61 | 7.62 | 7.77 | | 7.53 |
| | Miho Nonaka | 8.58 | 8.50 | 8.20 | 8.36 | 8.95 | |
| 4 | Patrycja Chudziak | 8.28 | 8.16 | 8.18 | 8.37 | 10.40 | |
| 5 | Anouck Jaubert | 8.49 | 8.16 | 7.78 | | | |
| 6 | Natalia Kalucka | 7.68 | 9.59 | 8.48 | | | |
| 7 | Alexandra Elmer | 8.54 | 9.00 | 8.63 | | | |
| 8 | Capucine Viglione | 7.94 | 7.87 | 10.58 | | | |
| 9 | Franziska Ritter | 8.33 | 8.52 | | | | |
| 10 | Callie Close | 8.72 | 8.70 | | | | |
| 11 | Tetiana Kolkotina | 8.68 | 8.95 | | | | |
| 12 | Brooke Raboutou | 9.36 | 9.55 | | | | |
| 13 | Akiyo Noguchi | 9.12 | 10.20 | | | | |
| 14 | Kyra Condie | 8.43 | 10.82 | | | | |
| 15 | Janja Garnbret | 8.36 | 14.47 | | | | |
| 16 | Laura Stöckler | 8.77 | 14.94 | | | | |

## Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3)
### Men

51 men attended the event.
Indonesia's Veddriq Leonardo claimed his second consecutive win after beating Russia's Dmitrii Timofeev in the final race. Leonardo's teammate, Kiromal Katibin placed third after beating Russia's Vladislav Deulin in the small final.
| Rank | Name | Qual. | 1/8 | 1/4 | 1/2 | Small | Final |
| | Veddriq Leonardo | 5.52 | 5.50 | 5.42 | 5.35 | | 5.32 |
| | Dmitrii Timofeev | 5.622 | 6.05 | 5.64 | 5.48 | | 7.35 |
| | Kiromal Katibin | 5.48 | 5.35 | 5.31 | 6.07 | 5.30 | |
| 4 | Vladislav Deulin | 5.756 | 5.67 | 5.62 | 5.51 | 5.38 | |
| 5 | Mehdi Alipour Shenazandifard | 5.734 | 6.78 | 5.68 | | | |
| 6 | Aleksandr Shikov | 5.67 | 6.07 | 5.72 | | | |
| 7 | Alfian Muhammad Fajri | 5.724 | 5.60 | 6.13 | | | |
| 8 | Rishat Khaibullin | 5.728 | 5.53 | 7.73 | | | |
| 9 | Aspar Jaelolo | 5.726 | 5.72 | | | | |
| 10 | Sergey Rukin | 5.77 | 5.78 | | | | |
| 11 | Marcin Dzieński | 5.71 | 5.80 | | | | |
| 12 | Reza Alipour Shenazandifard | 5.54 | 5.81 | | | | |
| 13 | John Brosler | 5.757 | 6.11 | | | | |
| 14 | Noah Bratschi | 5.739 | 6.36 | | | | |
| 15 | Lev Rudatskiy | 5.625 | 7.91 | | | | |
| 16 | Gian Luca Zodda | 5.729 | 9.90 | | | | |

### Women

40 women attended the event.
Russia's Ekaterina Barashchuk took her first World Cup gold medal after outracing her teammate and current world record holder Iuliia Kaplina in the final race. Poland's Patrycja Chudziak took third place after beating Indonesia's Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi in the small final.
| Rank | Name | Qual. | 1/8 | 1/4 | 1/2 | Small | Final |
| | Ekaterina Barashchuk | 7.61 | 7.59 | 7.28 | 7.30 | | 7.30 |
| | Iuliia Kaplina | 7.01 | 7.31 | 7.17 | 7.17 | | 8.39 |
| | Patrycja Chudziak | 7.56 | 7.60 | 7.42 | 7.50 | 7.73 | |
| 4 | Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi | 7.34 | 7.33 | 7.02 | fall | 10.38 | |
| 5 | Emma Hunt | 7.72 | 7.43 | 7.19 | | | |
| 6 | Natalia Kalucka | 7.28 | 8.29 | 7.47 | | | |
| 7 | Anouck Jaubert | 7.49 | wildcard | 7.52 | | | |
| 8 | Rajiah Sallsabillah | 7.24 | 7.19 | fall | | | |
| 9 | Anna Brozek | 7.84 | 7.61 | | | | |
| 10 | Capucine Viglione | 8.00 | 7.68 | | | | |
| 11 | Giulia Randi | 7.912 | 7.87 | | | | |
| 12 | Manon Lebon | 8.14 | 8.00 | | | | |
| 13 | Janja Garnbret | 7.916 | 8.01 | | | | |
| 14 | Laura Stöckler | 8.07 | 8.57 | | | | |
| 15 | Elena Timofeeva | 8.17 | 10.47 | | | | |
| 16 | Nurul Iqamah | 7.918 | FS | | | | |