# 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships

The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 15th edition, were held in Innsbruck, Austria from 6 to 16 September 2018. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, paraclimbing, and combined events.

## Medal winners overview

| Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
| Men's Lead | Jakob Schubert (AUT) | Adam Ondra (CZE) | Alexander Megos (GER) |
| Men's Speed | Reza Alipour (IRI) | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) |
| Men's Bouldering | Kai Harada (JPN) | Jongwon Chon (KOR) | Gregor Vezonik [cs] (SLO) |
| Men's Combined | Jakob Schubert (AUT) | Adam Ondra (CZE) | Jan Hojer (GER) |
| Women's Lead | Jessica Pilz (AUT) | Janja Garnbret (SLO) | Kim Ja-in (KOR) |
| Women's Speed | Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) | Anna Brozek (POL) | Mariia Krasavina [fr; cs; es] (RUS) |
| Women's Bouldering | Janja Garnbret (SLO) | Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) | Staša Gejo (SRB) |
| Women's Combined | Janja Garnbret (SLO) | Sol Sa (KOR) | Jessica Pilz (AUT) |

## Lead

The lead competition was the first event held at the 2018 World Championships. The women's qualification took place on the opening day, 6 September, at the Kletterzentrum, and the men's was held the following day at the same location. Women's semi-final and final were held on 8 September and the respective men's competitions the next day both at the Olympiaworld.

### Women

101 athletes attended the women's lead competition. In the final penultimate climber Jessica Pilz was the first to top the route. Janja Garnbret came out as the last climber and topped the route as well. As both climbers had the same first tiebreaker by virtue of having topped the semi-final route the ranking was decided by their time on the final route, which Pilz had climbed faster and thus was awarded the gold medal. Bronze went to Kim Ja-in.
| Rank | Name | Score |
| 1 | Jessica Pilz | Top |
| 2 | Janja Garnbret | Top |
| 3 | Kim Ja-in | 34+ |
| 4 | Mei Kotake | 33+ |
| 5 | Ashima Shiraishi | 32 |
| 6 | Anak Verhoeven | 31+ |
| 7 | Mia Krampl | 31+ |
| 8 | Akiyo Noguchi | 31+ |
| 9 | Hannah Schubert | 31+ |
| 10 | Laura Rogora | 24+ |

### Men

124 athletes attended the men's lead competition. Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert achieved the same score (36+) on the final route. Innsbruck-born Schubert won the gold medal due to his better tie-breaker, having achieved the better score in the semi-final. The bronze medal went to Alex Megos (33.5)
| Rank | Name | Score |
| 1 | Jakob Schubert | 36+ |
| 2 | Adam Ondra | 36+ |
| 3 | Alex Megos | 33.5 |
| 4 | Meichi Narasaki | 31+ |
| 5 | Domen Škofic | 29+ |
| 6 | Jakub Konečný | 29+ |
| 6 | Tomoaki Takata | 29+ |
| 8 | Sascha Lehmann | 23 |
| 9 | Marcello Bombardi | 20+ |
| 10 | Kai Harada | 16+ |

## Speed

The speed competitions took place in the Olympiaworld with the qualification rounds and the finals both being held on 13 September.

### Women

94 athletes competed in the women's speed climbing event. Aleksandra Rudzinska (7.56s) won the final of the speed competition over her Polish countrywoman Anna Brozek (7.91s). Mariia Krasavina won the bronze medal in the small final against Aleksandra Kalucka, who false started.
| Round of 16 | Round of 16 | Round of 16 | Quarter-finals | Quarter-finals | Quarter-finals | Semi-finals | Semi-finals | Semi-finals | | Final | Final | Final |
| Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) | Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) | 8.162 | | | | | | | | | | |
| CuiLian He (CHN) | CuiLian He (CHN) | 10.367 | | | | | | | | | | |
| CuiLian He (CHN) | CuiLian He (CHN) | 10.367 | Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) | Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) | 7.830 | | | | | | | |
| | | | Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | 7.880 | | | | | | | |
| Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) | Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) | 8.304 | Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | 7.880 | | | | | | | |
| Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | 8.159 | | | | | | | | | | |
| Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | 8.159 | | | | Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) | Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) | 7.775 | | | | |
| | | | | | | Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) | Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) | 11.971 | | | | |
| Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) | Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) | 8.038 | | | | | | | Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) | Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) | 11.971 | | | | |
| Natalia Kalucka (POL) | Natalia Kalucka (POL) | 8.274 | | | | | | | | | | |
| Natalia Kalucka (POL) | Natalia Kalucka (POL) | 8.274 | Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) | Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) | WC | | | | | | | |
| | | | Anna Tsyganova (RUS) | Anna Tsyganova (RUS) | FS | | | | | | | |
| Anna Tsyganova (RUS) | Anna Tsyganova (RUS) | 7.978 | Anna Tsyganova (RUS) | Anna Tsyganova (RUS) | FS | | | | | | | |
| Di Niu (CHN) | Di Niu (CHN) | 8.037 | | | | | | | | | | |
| Di Niu (CHN) | Di Niu (CHN) | 8.037 | | | | | | | | Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) | Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) | 7.650 |
| | | | | | | | | | | Anna Brozek (POL) | Anna Brozek (POL) | 7.910 |
| Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | FL | | | | | | | | | | | Anna Brozek (POL) | Anna Brozek (POL) | 7.910 |
| Alla Marenych (UKR) | Alla Marenych (UKR) | 8.395 | | | | | | | | | | |
| Alla Marenych (UKR) | Alla Marenych (UKR) | 8.395 | Alla Marenych (UKR) | Alla Marenych (UKR) | 8.174 | | | | | | | |
| | | | Anna Brozek (POL) | Anna Brozek (POL) | 7.961 | | | | | | | |
| Anna Brozek (POL) | Anna Brozek (POL) | 7.908 | Anna Brozek (POL) | Anna Brozek (POL) | 7.961 | | | | | | | |
| Yulia Kaplina (RUS) | Yulia Kaplina (RUS) | 8.437 | | | | | | | | | | |
| Yulia Kaplina (RUS) | Yulia Kaplina (RUS) | 8.437 | | | | Anna Brozek (POL) | Anna Brozek (POL) | WC | | | | |
| | | | | | | Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | FS | | | | |
| Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | 8.264 | | | | | | | Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | FS | | | | |
| Ekaterina Barashchuck (RUS) | Ekaterina Barashchuck (RUS) | 8.302 | | | | | | | | | | |
| Ekaterina Barashchuck (RUS) | Ekaterina Barashchuck (RUS) | 8.302 | Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | 7.713 | | | | | | | |
| | | | YiLing Song (CHN) | YiLing Song (CHN) | 8.906 | | | | | | | |
| YiLing Song (CHN) | YiLing Song (CHN) | 8.362 | YiLing Song (CHN) | YiLing Song (CHN) | 8.906 | | | | | | | |
| Victoire Andrier (FRA) | Victoire Andrier (FRA) | FL | | | | | | | | | | |

### Men

125 athletes competed in the men's speed competition. Reza Alipour (5.630s) won the final against Bassa Mawem (fell). In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (6.028s) won against QiXin Zhong (fell) and thus claimed the bronze medal.
| Round of 16 | Round of 16 | Round of 16 | Quarter-finals | Quarter-finals | Quarter-finals | Semi-finals | Semi-finals | Semi-finals | | Final | Final | Final |
| Reza Alipour (IRI) | Reza Alipour (IRI) | 6.144 | | | | | | | | | | |
| Jordan Fishman (USA) | Jordan Fishman (USA) | 8.977 | | | | | | | | | | |
| Jordan Fishman (USA) | Jordan Fishman (USA) | 8.977 | Reza Alipour (IRI) | Reza Alipour (IRI) | 5.808 | | | | | | | |
| | | | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | 6.021 | | | | | | | |
| Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | 6.228 | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | 6.021 | | | | | | | |
| Leonardo Gontero (ITA) | Leonardo Gontero (ITA) | fell | | | | | | | | | | |
| Leonardo Gontero (ITA) | Leonardo Gontero (ITA) | fell | | | | Reza Alipour (IRI) | Reza Alipour (IRI) | 5.709 | | | | |
| | | | | | | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | 5.836 | | | | |
| Vladislav Deulin (RUS) | Vladislav Deulin (RUS) | 6.053 | | | | | | | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | 5.836 | | | | |
| Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) | Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) | 12.236 | | | | | | | | | | |
| Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) | Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) | 12.236 | Vladislav Deulin (RUS) | Vladislav Deulin (RUS) | 5.904 | | | | | | | |
| | | | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | 5.832 | | | | | | | |
| Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | 5.953 | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | 5.832 | | | | | | | |
| Aleksandr Shilov (RUS) | Aleksandr Shilov (RUS) | 6.438 | | | | | | | | | | |
| Aleksandr Shilov (RUS) | Aleksandr Shilov (RUS) | 6.438 | | | | | | | | Reza Alipour (IRI) | Reza Alipour (IRI) | 5.630 |
| | | | | | | | | | | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | FL |
| Bassa Mawem (FRA) | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | WC | | | | | | | | | | | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | FL |
| Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) | Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) | FS | | | | | | | | | | |
| Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) | Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) | FS | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | 5.714 | | | | | | | |
| | | | Jan Kriz (CZE) | Jan Kriz (CZE) | 6.466 | | | | | | | |
| Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | FS | Jan Kriz (CZE) | Jan Kriz (CZE) | 6.466 | | | | | | | |
| Jan Kriz (CZE) | Jan Kriz (CZE) | WC | | | | | | | | | | |
| Jan Kriz (CZE) | Jan Kriz (CZE) | WC | | | | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | 5.638 | | | | |
| | | | | | | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | 7.540 | | | | |
| Aleksandr Shikov (RUS) | Aleksandr Shikov (RUS) | 5.851 | | | | | | | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | 7.540 | | | | |
| PengHui Lin (CHN) | PengHui Lin (CHN) | 6.044 | | | | | | | | | | |
| PengHui Lin (CHN) | PengHui Lin (CHN) | 6.044 | Aleksandr Shikov (RUS) | Aleksandr Shikov (RUS) | 6.354 | | | | | | | |
| | | | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | 5.609 | | | | | | | |
| QiXin Zhong (CHN) | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | 5.993 | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | 5.609 | | | | | | | |
| Marcin Dzieński (POL) | Marcin Dzieński (POL) | 6.428 | | | | | | | | | | |

## Bouldering

The bouldering event was held over four days. The qualifying took place at Kletterzentrum with the women's qualification held on 11 September and the men's on 12 September. Semi-finals and finals were held at the Olympiaworld on 14 September for the women and 15 September for the men.

### Women

112 athletes attended the women's bouldering competition. In the bouldering final lead finalists Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi, and Jessica Pilz made another appearance. The World Cup bouldering seasonal winner Miho Nonaka, reigning world champion Petra Klingler, and Staša Gejo completed the final. Garnbret won gold over Noguchi and Gejo won bronze.
| Rank | Name | Score |
| 1 | Janja Garnbret | 2T3z 7 7 |
| 2 | Akiyo Noguchi | 2T2z 4 3 |
| 3 | Staša Gejo | 1T2z 1 6 |
| 4 | Jessica Pilz | 0T2z 0 4 |
| 5 | Miho Nonaka | 0T2z 0 4 |
| 6 | Petra Klingler | 0T0z 0 0 |

### Men

150 athletes attended the men's bouldering competition, making it the largest individual event at the World Championship. Kai Harada (4T4z 7 6) won the Gold medal over Jongwon Chon (3T4z 9 10) and Gregor Vezonik (3T4z 9 17). The reigning champion, Tomoa Narasaki, and the World Cup seasonal winner, Jernej Kruder, missed the cut to the final.
| Rank | Name | Score |
| 1 | Kai Harada | 4T4z 7 6 |
| 2 | Jongwon Chon | 3T4z 9 10 |
| 3 | Gregor Vezonik | 3T4z 9 17 |
| 4 | Keita Watabe | 2T4z 6 10 |
| 5 | Kokoro Fujii | 2T2z 5 4 |
| 6 | Nathan Phillips | 1T2z 5 6 |

## Combined

In the Combined competition the six most successful athletes of the previous competitions competed against each other in Speed, Bouldering and Lead. The athletes were selected by multiplying each athletes rank from the three individual competitions. The six climbers with the lowest scores determined by this method were invited to compete in the Combined final. In the final itself the athletes were again ranked by multiplying their rank in the Speed, Bouldering and Lead portion with a lower score leading to a better Combined rank.
The women's and men's combined final were both held at the Olympiaworld, the women's on 15 September and the men's on 16 September.

### Women

| Rank | Name | Score | Speed | Bouldering | Lead |
| 1 | Janja Garnbret | 5.00 | 5 | 1 (4T4z 7 7) | 1 (Top) |
| 2 | Sol Sa | 12.00 | 1 | 2 (2T4z 9 18) | 6 (23+) |
| 3 | Jessica Pilz | 24.00 | 2 | 6 (1T2z 2 7) | 2 (Top) |
| 4 | Akiyo Noguchi | 54.00 | 6 | 3 (2T2z 6 6) | 3 (31+) |
| 5 | Miho Nonaka | 64.00 | 4 | 4 (2T2z 10 8) | 4 (26+) |
| 6 | Petra Klingler | 75.00 | 3 | 5 (2T2z 12 12) | 5 (26+) |

### Men

| Rank | Name | Score | Speed | Bouldering | Lead |
| 1 | Jakob Schubert | 4.00 | 2 | 1 (4T4z 8 4) | 2 (37+) |
| 2 | Adam Ondra | 10.00 | 5 | 2 (4T4z 11 6) | 1 (42+) |
| 3 | Jan Hojer | 24.00 | 1 | 4 (3T4z 8 6) | 6 (26+) |
| 4 | Kai Harada | 60.00 | 4 | 5 (3T3z 7 4) | 3 (34+) |
| 5 | Tomoa Narasaki | 72.00 | 6 | 3 (3T4z 6 5) | 4 (34) |
| 6 | Kokoro Fujii | 90.00 | 3 | 6 (2T4z 2 5) | 5 (30+) |