# Artimes Farshad Yeganeh

Artimes Farshad Yeganeh (Persian: آرتیمس فرشاد یگانه, born 27 May 1981 in Tehran, Iran) is an Iranian rock climber who has specialized in both competition climbing (lead and bouldering), and outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. He has been climbing for 30 years as a professional climber, a member of the Iranian National climbing team for many years, as a route setter in many national, continental, and world cups and championships, and Head Coach of the Iranian National climbing team for 6 years. He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions and is one of the most famous Iranian climbers.

## Biography

Artimes was elected as one of the five members among competition climbing experts over Tehran province to make Tehran climbing league's statute. Then, he participated as a first Iranian Alpine Club's representative in bouldering world cup of 2009 in France. As he truly is well known for lead climbing, he also solo climbed two routes. Currently, Artimes and Amin Abbasi are the only Iranian Continental route setters. He became IFSC JUNIOR Route setter in 2019 and Asian Chief Route Setter. He also became International Route Setter in 2020.He is only Iranian International Route Setter.

## Positions

Here are some positions he has held:
* 2007 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
* 2008 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
* 2009 – Tehran League founding member
* 2009 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
* 2010 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
* 2011 – Tehran Mountaineering and Sport climbing–Educational Consultant
* 2013 – Tehran Rebolting Committee
* 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
* 2014 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
* 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
* 2015 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
* 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
* 2016 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
* 2017 — Member of Sport Department ACC of IFSC – Asian Continental Council
* 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
* 2017 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–National Team Committee–Head Coach of Youth Team
* 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
* 2018 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Head Coach of Combined Team
* 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
* 2019 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Head Coach of Combined Team
* 2020 – Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation–Sport Climbing Committee–Route Setting Director
* 2020 — IFSC International Route Setter – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
* 2021 — Member of Route Setting Commission of IFSC – International Sport Climbing Federation 2021
* 2021 — Member of Route Setting Commission of ACC of IFSC – Asian Continental Council.
* 2021 — Chair of Coaching Commission Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation

## Coaching
### Coaching certificates

* IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 1
* IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 2
* IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Coach Grade 3
* Rock Climbing Federation of Germany – Sport Climbing Coach Level 1, Level 2 and Level C1

### Coaching experience

| Gym | Time |
| Emam Ali University | 2003-2006 |
| Army | 2005-2006 |
| Davoudi | 2005-2008 |
| Tarbiat Modarres University Climbing Gym | 2005-current |
| ArmenianClimbing Gym Sipan | 2012-current |
| Payam Climbing Gym | 2015-current |
| Raspina Welness Climbing Gym | 2016-2018 |
| MSFI Sport Climbing National Team Head Coach | 2014-current |

## Route setting Certificate and Experiences
### Route Setting certificates

* IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 1
* IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing Route Setter Level 2
* IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – National Sport Climbing Route Setter
* ACC of IFSC – Continental Sport Climbing Route Setter
* Member of Sport Department ACC of IFSC – Asian Continental Council 2017
* IFSC Junior – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
* IFSC International Route Setter – International Sport Climbing Route Setter
* Member of Route Setting Commission of IFSC – International Sport Climbing Federation 2021
* Member of Route Setting Commission of ACC of IFSC – Asian Continental Council 2021
* IFSC International Chief Route Setter – International Sport Climbing Route Setter 2023

### Route setting experiences

* 2005 - Chief Route Setter National Championships
* 2006 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
* 2007 – Chief Route Setter–Junior and Youth National Championship
* 2007 – Chief Route Setter–University Student National Championship
* 2009 – Chief Route Setter–National Championship
* 2011 – Route Setter–IFSC Master Cup International Cup
* 2013 – Route Setter– IFSC Asian Championships Tehran, Iran
* 2015 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Malaysia
* 2016 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Tehran, Iran
* 2016 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup Munich, Germany
* 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championship Tehran, Iran
* 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championship Innsbruck, Austria
* 2017 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Cup Wanxianchan, China
* 2018 – Route Setter – IFSC FISU World University Championships Slovakia
* 2018 – Route Setter – 18th Asian Games Palembang, Indonesia
* 2018 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championship Totori, Japan
* 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup bouldering Munich, Germany
* 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC China open Guanzhuo, China
* 2019 – Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Combined Chongqing, China
* 2019 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Youth Championship Bengaloru, India
* 2020 – Route Setter – IFSC European Championships Moscow, Russia
* 2021 – Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championships Voronezh, Russia
* 2022 – Route Setter – IFSC World Cup Innsbruck, Austria
* 2022 – Route Setter – IFSC European Championships Munich, Germany
* 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF National Championships Tehran, Iran
* 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian Championships Seoul, Korea
* 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF Training Camp Tehran, Iran
* 2022 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Asian K Championships Jamshedpur, India
* 2023 – Chief Route Setter – Chinese Team Training Camp Beijing, China
* 2023 – Chief Route Setter – Asian Games Test Event Hangzhou, China
* 2023 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF National Championships Tehran, Iran
* 2023 – Chief Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championships Seoul, Korea
* 2023 – Chief Route Setter – IMSCF Training Camp Tehran, Iran
* 2023 – Chief Route Setter – 19th Asian Games Hangzhou, China
* 2024- Head Route Setter – West Asia Cup Riakh, Saudi Arabia
* 2024- Route Setter – IFSC World Cup Briancon, France
* 2024- Head Route Setter – IFSC Youth World Championshops Guiyang, China

## Judging
### Judging certificates

* IRI Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – Sport Climbing National Judge

## Iran National Team memberships

* Junior National Team
** 1999
* National Team
** 2003
** 2004 – China, Asian Championship
** 2005 – Kerman (IRI), UIAA Asian Championship
** 2006 – Kaoshiung (TPE), UIAA Asian Championships
** 2007 – Qinghai (CHN), IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L+S)
** 2009 – France, Bouldering Worldcup

## Ranks and medals
### IFSC Climbing Worldcup

| | 2009 | 2007 |
| Bouldering | 29 |
| Lead | 26 |

### UIAA Asian Championships

| | 2005 | 2006 |
| Lead | 19 | 10 |

### Fajr championships

| | 1998 | 2002 | 2006 |
| Lead | 3 | 3 | 2 |

### National championships

| | 2002 | 2006 |
| Lead | 3 | 1 |

### Tehran Province championships

| | 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 |
| Lead | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| Lead | | | | | | | | | | | | 2 | |

### Tehran Province League

| | 2010 | 2011 |
| Lead | 1 | 1 |

### Groups Cup

| | 2000 |
| Lead | 2 |

## Solo

* Mashalah, 7c, 20 meters, Overhanging & Roof, Kermanshah, Iran, 2006, first ascent
* Gordefa, 7a+, 25 meters, Polokhab, Iran, 2006, first ascent

## Climbing

Here are some of his Tops & First Ascent climbs:
| Year | Name | Grade |
| 1999 | Mashallah | 7c |
| 1999 | Alen | 7b+/7c |
| 2000 | Iran Gate (SA) | 8a+ |
| 2001 | Safeh | 8a |
| 2002 | Ghoul | 7c+ |
| 2002 | Nemat | 7c |
| 2002 | Speed(FA) | 7c |
| 2002 | Ashiane(FA) | 8a |
| 2003 | Iran(FA) | 7c+ |
| 2004 | Iran Swiss | 8a |
| 2005 | Khashol(FA) | 7c |
| 2006 | Khoke chamosh(FA) | 7c |
| 2007 | Ashianedoe(FA) | 8a |
| 2009 | Solo(FA) | 8a+ |
| 2010 | Tehran Guy(FA) | 7c |
| 2011 | Father & Son(FA) | 7b+ |
| 2018 | Marmolak | 8a+ |
| 2018 | Bargrizan | 8a |
| 2018 | Ghij | 7c+ |
| 2018 | Shahin(Flash) | 7c |
| 2018 | Push your must(FA) | 7c+ |
| 2018 | Pishadul(FA) | 7c+ |
| 2019 | Vampire(FA) | 8b+ |
| 2019 | Grezzly (FA) | 8b |
| 2019 | Colony(FA) | 8b+ |
| 2020 | Sourkhpoost(Indian) | 8a+ |
| 2020 | Gladiator | 8b+ |
| 2020 | Merry Jain (FA) | 8a+,8b |
| 2020 | Karimz(SA) | 8b+ |
| 2021 | Blue(TA) | 8a |

## Roc Trips

* Petzl 2008
* Petzl 2009
* Petzl 2014

## Filmography

* Mashalla

## Route

Here are some of the routes he bolted:
| Year | Name | Grade |
| 2006 | Khashol | 7c |
| 2006 | Pichol | project |
| 2007 | Khoke chamosh | 7c+ |
| 2009 | O+ | 7c |
| 2008 | Solo | 8b |
| 2008 | Toxic | 8a+ |
| 2009 | Emperor project | ? |
| 2010 | Tehran guys | 8a |
| 2011 | Gladiator | 8b+/8c |
| 2011 | Father and Son | 7c |
| 2013 | Vampire | 8b+ |
| 2014 | Ati | 7b+ |
| 2018 | Colony | 8b+ |
| 2018 | Pishadul | 7c+ |
| 2019 | Surkhpoost (Indian) | 8a |
| 2020 | Merry Jain | 8a+/8b |
| 2020 | Kingdom | project |