San Juan Islands

The San Juan Islands are a scattering of forested islands in the serene waters to the north of Puget Sound in Washington state, adjacent to Canada's Vancouver Island. Ferries, private boats, kayaks, and orcas (killer whales) criss-cross the waters, while float planes and bald eagles soar overhead. The islands are rural, with a few small towns on the largest islands. The year-round population is small, but swarms of summer visitors come for the scenery and outdoor life, and a lucky and wealthy few have vacation homes tucked into the islands. == Islands == There are 176 islands large enough to be named. The four largest islands are served by ferry from the mainland and are the most heavily visited by tourists. 1 Orcas Island — The largest island, littered with harbor villages. Towns on the island include Eastsound and Orcas Village. 2 San Juan Island — Whales frequent the shores where a farmer once nearly triggered a war. Towns on the island include Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor. 3 Lopez Island — A flat and bikeable island with a tight-knit rural community. 4 Shaw Island — Get a glimpse of life on an island that is minimally-developed for tourism. The smaller islands are not served by the ferry, have few or no services, and generally require personal or chartered watercraft or aircraft to access. 5 Blakely Island 6 Decatur Island (including James Island) 7 Stuart Island (including Satellite Island) 8 Sucia Island 9 Waldron Island == Cities == 1 Eastsound is the largest populated area on Orcas Island. 2 Friday Harbor, the main city on San Juan Island, the most populous of the San Juan Islands, and the county seat of San Juan County. 3 Orcas Village, town built around the ferry terminal on Orcas Island. 4 Roche Harbor, on the northwest corner of San Juan Island, is the number two town and a bustling yachting harbor. It has floatplane service to Seattle. == Understand == There are about 700 islands and reefs between Vancouver Island and the mainland. The Haro Strait divides them into the Southern Gulf Islands of Canada to the west, and the San Juan Islands of the United States to the east. To the south lies the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and to north is the Strait of Georgia and the US-Canada boundary on the 49th parallel. This article covers the islands that comprise San Juan County. Fidalgo Island and Lummi Island to the east, sometimes included in broader definitions, are grouped with the Northwest Washington mainland. Whidbey Island and all other islands to the south are part of the Puget Sound. The islands are hugely popular during the summer months, bringing long days and even longer ferry lines. Travelers in the know also visit the islands in the off-season when crowds are at their least and hotels are frequently cheaper, though many businesses do close seasonally. === Climate === Like the rest of western Washington, San Juan Islands are best visited during the summer, when the sun shines up to 18 hours a day with barely any rain. Expect cooler weather compared to the mainland as the surrounding seas cool the warm air. Average summertime temperatures are around 60 °F (16 °C). In winter, the seas make the islands a touch milder than the mainland. The islands sometimes get lucky and stay dry while the mainland is soaked, thanks to the Olympic Mountains in the south that block the precipitation. The bigger issue is the wind, which can howl and cause problems in areas exposed to the water. This typically comes after a rainstorm or ahead of dry and chilly weather. === San Juan Islands National Monument === About 75 rocks, reefs, parks and other sites across the region are protected in the San Juan Islands National Monument, established in 2013. The National Monument includes archaeological sites of the Coast Salish peoples, lighthouses and relics of early European American settlers, and the biodiversity of island life. There is no central hub for visitors; the monument consists almost entirely of small parcels scattered across the islands. Many such spots are not meant for tourist access, but listings in the individual island articles include some spots that are easily accessible. === Local information === San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau == Get in == === By ferry === Washington State Ferries (WSF) operates the Anacortes / San Juan Islands route, serving the mainland and the four largest islands: 1 Anacortes Terminal on the mainland, about 1½ hours north of Seattle. This is the only easy way to take a car to the islands. Anacortes Terminal is connected by public bus to Mount Vernon and the rest of the mainland, and by private shuttle directly to Seattle and SeaTac Airport. The ferry serves the following islands: 2 Lopez Island at its northern tip, about 4 mi (6.4 km) from Lopez Village. 3 Shaw Island, at the northeastern corner, near the island's only services. 4 Orcas Island Ferry Terminal, at Orcas Village. 5 San Juan Island Ferry Terminal, at Friday Harbor, the major town in San Juan County. Ferries from the San Juan Islands or Anacortes do not go to other WSF terminals such as Port Townsend, Mukilteo, Seattle, Bremerton or anywhere south. Travelers will have to go to the other ferry ports to catch the ferry to their desired destination. All the other islands, including Stuart Island, Decatur Island, Henry Island, Blakely Island, Waldron Island and Johns Islands, are only accessible by private boat, water taxi or by private plane. The ferry schedule is complicated. There's a sailing about once an hour in the summer, a little less often in the winter. One vessel makes several interisland loops, while the other vessels run from Anacortes to one or more islands and back. Expect a transit time of about 45-90 minutes each way, depending on your destination and the number of stops in between. Fares are round-trip and collected at Anacortes. Fares are calculated based on the destination terminal, sailing time and season, type and length of vehicle and the amount and ages of passengers. For example, fares from Anacortes to Friday Harbor during a summer weekend in 2025 are: $80.90 for a standard 14–22 ft (4.3–6.7 m) car and its driver $16.50 for additional adult passengers and walk-ons $4.00 for each ride-on bicycle, in addition to the passenger fare Reservations are strongly recommended for vehicles, especially for summer weekends, when the wait for loading cars can be notoriously long. It is not unusual to wait in line for many hours, and missing the last ferry can mean a desperate search for accommodations to spend an unplanned night on the islands. Spaces are released by WSF in three waves: 30% of spaces become available two months before the first day of the sailing season (seasons are approximately quarterly). 30% of spaces become available two weeks before the sailing, at 7AM. 30% of spaces become available two days before the sailing, at 7AM. Walk-on passengers should arrive at least 30 minutes prior to sailing. Vehicle traffic with reservations should arrive about 60 minutes prior to sailing. Vehicles without reservations should prepare to wait several hours during peak afternoon and weekend sailing. The Sidney (BC)-Anacortes ferry service has been suspended and will not resume until at least 2030. The San Juan Clipper from Seattle, operated by Clipper Vacations, was suspended in 2022 and remains out of service. === By bus === For travelers going to the Anacortes Ferry Terminal from Seattle, Everett or Bellingham without a car: Island Airporter, ☏ +1 360 378-7438. Departs Sea-Tac International Airport M-Sa at noon. Island Airport runs one trip each day to/from Sea-Tac Airport to two locations on the San Juan Islands including Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor. Ferry boarding is guaranteed and the trip is scheduled to take 3 hr 45 min. $70-90 + $6.55 ferry pass. BellAir Airporter, (bus stop) 2100 Ferry Terminal Rd (If coming from San Juan Islands, walk up the hill from the ferry and through the gate. The shuttle stop is up the hill to the right by the bus shed just past the gate.), toll-free: +1-866-235-5247. Service from Seattle Tacoma International Airport, Everett Paine Field and Bellingham International Airport to Burlington, Mount Vernon, Anacortes and the San Juan Islands Ferry Terminal); and to East (rural) King County and Central Washington (North Bend, Cle Elum, Ellensburg and Yakima) from Sea-Tac only. They operate the branch route from the I-5 corridor to the Anacortes Terminal from Burlington where passengers transfer at. $25-70 for one way. === By public transit === Skagit Transit 410. Serves as local public transportation between the Anacortes terminal to Downtown Anacortes, Guemes Ferry Terminal and March's Park Ride for connections to: (updated Nov 2024) 40X connects March's P&R to Mount Vernon via WA-Hwy 20. 70x to Concrete, Washington via Sedro-Woolley from Mount Vernon. 80X goes from Mount Vernon to Bellingham. This route is co-operated by Skagit Transit and Whatcom Transportation Authority (WTA) 90X connects Mount Vernon and S Mt Vernon P&R, with Everett Station, where transfers are possible with Sound Transit to Downtown Seattle and Seattle Tacoma International Airport (512 & Link Line 1); and to Bellevue on another route (532). 615 To Mount Vernon through La Conner. 513 To Burlington from March's P&R via Skagit Regional Airport Island Transit 411W. Connects Mount Vernon to Oak Harbor on Whidbey Island, via March's P&R and Deceptions Pass, with connections to: (updated Nov 2024) 1 Continues the rest of the way on WA-HWy 525 to Clinton Ferry Terminal (to Mukilteo) from Oak Harbor. 6 Goes to the Coupeville Ferry Terminal (to Port Townsend) via Coupeville town from Oak Harbor. === By boat === The San Juan Islands are one of the most popular areas for cruising on small craft in North America. Most towns are built around their harbors and offer a variety of services, restaurants, and hotels within walking distance of marinas. Even the less populated islands often have a public dock or public buoys for visiting boaters, check individual island and city listings for specifics. Water Taxi services can provide transport to the small islands such as Blakely, Decatur and Henry Islands. ==== From Canada and outside the U.S. ==== There are official U.S. ports-of-entry at Friday Harbor, Anacortes and Bellingham that can process boaters through customs. Touch land at a customs dock before any other stops, fines for not doing so can be up to $5000. You will need a passport for everyone on board, your boat's license number, and User Fee Decal number. Customs enforces USDA guidelines for what foods are acceptable to bring into the country. These guidelines are constantly changing so it is best to check in with them before arriving. Boaters are responsible for knowing the prohibited foods and can be fined for not declaring them. ==== Cruises ==== If interested in cruising to the islands, there are charter companies in both Anacortes and Bellingham. San Juan Cruises, 355 Harris Ave #104 (Bellingham Cruise Terminal/Alaska Ferry Terminal), ☏ +1 360 738-8099, toll-free: +1-800-443-4552, tours@whales.com. daily, May-September. Offers a variety of cruises from Bellingham, including day trips to Friday Harbor and Sucia Island, as well as whale watching tours, bird watching tours, and dinner cruises. === By seaplane === Kenmore Air, toll-free: +1-866-435-9524, fax: +1-425-485-4774, reservations@KenmoreAir.com. Kenmore Air seaplanes make several flights daily from downtown Seattle's Lake Union to six locations in the San Juan Islands with two on San Juan Island, three on Orcas Island, and one destination on Lopez Island. Kenmore Air Express also offers daily land plane service between Seattle's Boeing Field/King County International Airport (BFI IATA) and Friday Harbor Airport (FRD IATA). Complimentary shuttle transfers are available to/from Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA IATA) for passengers on either Kenmore Air service. A quick and spectacular, though not cheap, way to arrive. $75-139. Northwest Seaplanes, 860 W. Perimeter Road, Renton, toll-free: +1-800-690-0086. Scheduled and charter seaplane flights to destinations from South Lake Washington, in the heart of Seattle to the San Juan Islands, Vancouver Island, and British Columbia’s Inside Passage. They operate 4 planes each offering six seats. == Get around == === By car === Bringing a car on the ferry is the best option for exploring the remote areas of the largest islands. If you can't, car rentals are available from Friday Harbor, Orcas Village and Eastsound. The smaller islands generally have unimproved county roads. Cars are more of an impractical luxury item, as there is no easy way to get one there due to the lack of ferry service. The roads often serve as foot trails, and you are more likely to see someone traveling by horse than car. === By bus === San Juan Island has bus services that stop at most points of interest. Orcas and Lopez have taxi and charter services that need to be arranged in advance. The following are the closest to public transit on the San Juan and Orcas Islands but are privately rather than county operated: Orcas Shuttle by Orcas Cars Connects the ferry terminal Orcas Village to East Sound and Rosario on limited schedules. They only operate during the summers from Memorial Day to Labor Day. They also offer cars for rent to get around on the island year round. San Juan Transit is the closest thing to public transit on San Juan Island with regularly scheduled service from the Friday Harbor Ferry Terminal to Roche Harbor via American Camp, British Camp, Limestone Kiln and other major points of interest on two separate routes. They operate on more frequent schedules during summer than in winter. === By ferry === The four largest islands are connected by Washington State Ferries. One vessel is dedicated to making several interisland loops throughout the day. === By boat === The San Juan Islands are the most popular sailing charter area in the Pacific Northwest and one of the most popular destinations for cruising on small craft in the United States. Small towns and harbors are geared towards visiting boaters and many of the areas most scenic and remote areas can only be reached by boat. The area waters are reasonably protected even in storms off the Pacific, but due to the many underwater hazards some boating experience is helpful. Many charter companies include a day of training in the charter package. See Waggoner Cruising Guide for more detailed navigational and recreational information. === By bike === The winding paved roads of the main islands are ideal for exploring by bike. This is particularly true of Lopez Island, the flattest of the large islands. However, the smaller more remote islands often do not have paved roads, making traveling by bike more of a challenge. Bicyclists have priority boarding on Washington State Ferries, so bikes can bypass the sometimes ridiculously long car lines and walk right onto the ferries. Bike rentals are available from communities and resorts across Orcas, San Juan, and Lopez Islands. === By foot === Many trails dot the various islands and state parks, giving travelers an insightful view of their surroundings. Many of the dirt roads see far more foot traffic than car traffic and basically serve as wide foot trails. == See == Moran State Park, near Eastsound on Orcas Island, has an amazing view atop Mt. Constitution, from a stone tower built by the public works of the Roosevelt era. San Juan Island National Historical Park on San Juan Island, where in 1859 the United States and Great Britain nearly went to war over a dead pig. == Do == === Whale watching === The San Juans are touted as the best place in the world to see orcas (killer whales). The Southern Resident Orcas live in the Salish Sea year-round. The spring season is when they are easiest to see in the San Juans. There are other whales in these waters. Gray whales migrate through the islands, usually around April. Humpback whales also migrate through in the spring and summer. There is a large number of tour operators, departing from Friday Harbor, Roche Harbor, and larger cities on the mainland (such as Bellingham and Anacortes). The Whale Museum in Friday Harbor is a great resource for planning your own excursion. Even if you miss out on seeing one of the bigger residents, you are almost certain to see harbor seals, otters, sea lions, and porpoises. === Birdwatching === The San Juan Islands are in the Pacific Flyway, which extends from Alaska to South America. Almost 300 species of birds have been observed on the islands. The islands offer a variety of habitats for birds in a relatively compact area, from rocky sea shores to lush wetlands. The San Juan Islands Audubon Society holds regular meetings, bird counts and postings of bird activity. Bald Eagles, Great Blue Heron, Kingfishers and Cormorants are all common sights on the islands but rare birds are sometimes seen migrating through the area. Check recent bird sightings at eBird's listing for San Juan County. === Beachcombing === The area's many coastal parks offer miles of public beach. A few of them are sandy smooth, but most are more rocky. The coastline is ringed with massive logs of driftwood from the region's great forests. Like much of the west coast, the water is colder than most human swimmers would prefer, but the marine life likes it just fine. The coast teems with animal activity, and tide pools can offer hours of exploration. Unlike the other west coast states, the law around public access (and private ownership) of beaches below the high-tide line in Washington is ambiguous, so it is best to seek out spots that are explicitly open to the public. Trespass at your own risk. === Hiking === Much of the islands are covered in coastal forests of Douglas fir and madrone trees interspersed with undeveloped pockets of beach, an environment that today is rare on the mainland. Among the big four islands, Moran State Park on Orcas Island is hard to beat in terms of trail network size and diversity of terrain. Obstruction Pass State Park (on Orcas) and Lime Kiln (on San Juan) also feature popular trails. Wooded trails cover many of the smaller islands, including Cypress Island, Jones Island, and Sucia Island. === Sea kayaking === Sea kayaking allows the paddler a closer and slower look at their surroundings. The San Juans are littered with pristine forested parks and sheltered passages to secluded beaches. Or just explore the San Juan Islands many harbor towns that cater to kayakers with shops and restaurants accessible from the water. Some camping areas in the various state parks in the area are only open to people powered vessels. ==== Kayak trails ==== Organized trails offer overnight camping options and maps of appropriate lengths for scenic travel destinations. Cascadia Marine Trail. This inland sea trail is a National Recreation Trail and designated one of only 16 National Millennium Trails by the White House. Suitable for day or multi-day trips, the Cascadia Marine Trail has over 50 campsites to visit including many in the San Juan Islands. People can boat to the campsites from many public and private launch sites or shoreline trailheads. === Crabbing === Sport crab fishing is popular here. Most fishermen look for the elusive and meaty Dungeness Crab, but other less popular crabs are plentiful. A wide array of crab traps are available from area sporting goods and marine stores. The red and white buoys marking the traps are a common sight on the water during the short crabbing season. Crab season starts with a two-day opener July 1st and 2nd and follows up with crabbing every Thursday through Monday through Labor Day weekend. Fishing permits are required and can be purchased from a variety of local stores, more information is available from the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. === Shellfishing === The cool, clean waters provide some of the finest shellfish habitat in the world. Washington State is the nation’s leading producer of farmed bivalve shellfish (clams, geoduck, mussels and oysters). The San Juan Islands have dozens of Public Clam and Oyster Beaches. Maps of public shellfishing areas and health warnings and updates can be found online at the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. Permits are required and can be purchased online or in some sporting goods stores. == Buy == The islands attract artists from around the Pacific Northwest, seeking the slow pace and natural beauty of island life. Successful commercial artists tend to retire here. Most towns, even the small ones, feature galleries with local visual art. == Eat and drink == Fresh seafood including fish (especially salmon), Dungeness crab, shrimp, mussels and clams are readily available and featured in local restaurants. If you're foraging for yourself, make sure there's no red tide. The islands have a small but notable fine dining scene focusing on locally-sourced ingredients, befitting of a weekend resort getaway near a large prosperous city. The Pacific Northwest loves coffee, and the San Juan Islands are no exception. If a small harbor only has one store, you can expect that store to serve espresso. == Stay safe == === Animal safety === Keep wildlife wild. Though many of the animals in the Puget Sound area are used to seeing humans, they should not be fed or disturbed. U.S. regulations require that boaters stay 200 yd (180 m) away from whales and keep the path of the whales clear. Don't disturb resting seal pups. NOAA recommends at least a 100 yd (91 m) buffer around seals. Keep children and dogs away and report to the local stranding hotline. Report harassment or sightings of injured/stranded marine mammals by calling the NOAA Fisheries hotline at ☏ +1-800-853-1964. Seal pups 'haul out' to get much needed rest when they are young and are often alone for many hours. They are extremely vulnerable at this time and should be left alone. Only about 50% of Puget Sound seal pups make it through their first year so please help to protect their health. === Cell phones === Many visitors are surprised by their phone bill after returning from the San Juan Islands. Due to their proximity to Canada it is possible to get a better signal from a Canadian cell phone provider and, depending on your phone's settings, this could add foreign roaming charges to your bill. Roche Harbor and north San Juan Island are notorious for having better Canadian service. Many of the islands are remote enough that cell phones simply won't work, so don't plan on being dependent on them, especially in the outer islands. == Go next == Olympic Peninsula — Long stretches of undeveloped coastline along the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the open ocean. There are major harbors at Port Angeles, Port Townsend, and Sequim. Whidbey Island — The pastoral island at the approach to Puget Sound. Seattle — A beautiful city on the Puget Sound framed by water and mountains. Southern Gulf Islands — Hundreds of more islands to explore across the Haro Strait. It's the Canadian counterpart to the San Juans. Vancouver Island — The big Canadian island that emerges towards the west. Victoria is a nice little piece of England, famous for the spectacular Butchart Gardens.