Istanbul/Princes' Islands

Princes' Islands are nine islands in the Sea of Marmara, about 5 km off the Asian coast of Istanbul, and part of that metropolis. In Turkish they're Prens Adaları but usually just called Adalar, the designation of their city district: Ada means an island and "-lar" makes them plural. Büyükada (which helpfully means "big island") is the largest and has the most visitor facilities. They're a weekend escape from the frenetic city. == Islands == For each island, the map marker is for the main pier and settlement, if there is one. 1 Büyükada is the chief island, about 5 km north-south and 1 km east-west. It has the most visitor attractions but is expensive, and for many a day-trip will be enough. 2 Heybeliada is the second-largest, about 3 km east-west and 1 km north-south. 3 Sedef Island has public beaches but only private accommodation. 4 Burgazada is the third largest, about 1 km across. Kaşık Island is a low uninhabited islet 500 m east of Burguzada. 5 Kınalıada means "henna island" for its red soil. Its buildings are mostly modern. 6 Yassıada west of the main archipelago has been renamed Democracy and Freedom Island. 7 Sivriada further west is uninhabited. 8 Tavşan Adası means "rabbit island", one of dozens of Turkish islands so-named. Vordonos was a tenth island, with a monastery in Byzantine times, but it sank in an earthquake of 1010 AD. It's now a few rocks and shoals between Kınalıada and mainland Bostancı. == Understand == These islands lie close to the mainland but were forgotten places until the 19th century, the abode of monks, rabbits and lizards. They've gone by multiple names but are usually known as the Princes' Islands (note the spelling, plural possessive), as rulers of Constantinople found it convenient to exile opponents here. Some may have found it distressing to be cast away within sight of their former mainland pomp, but for example when Byzantine Emperor Romanos Diogenes was deposed and sent here in 1071, they had the courtesy to blind him first. From the mid-19th century steamers were the mainstay of transport around Turkey's rugged coastline, and the islands acquired summer homes for the city's merchant class. That meant a cosmopolitan population of Greeks, Jews and Armenians, vying with each other to build a more splendid mansion than the next fellow, and these remain a major attraction though few can be visited within. Those merchants fled or were deported in the population exchanges after World War I, and the islands slumped for a time until the Turkish Republic grew its own prosperous middle class. Faster 20th century boats made day-trips simple, and the hordes descended. The best times to visit are April and May, then Sep and Oct, when temperatures are pleasant and the islands aren't crowded. June to August they're crowded and touristy. Nov to March they're gloomy and deserted with biting cold winds. == Get in == No bridge, tunnel or airstrip so you get here by ferry from Istanbul city. To Büyükada takes about 90 min from European piers and 45 min from the Asian side. The last ferries depart around 23:00. Adalar Lines sail hourly from Kabataş via Kadıköy to Kınalıada, Burgazada, Heybeliada and Büyükada; they may loop back to the mainland at Bostancı. Mavi Marmara ferries sail hourly from Bostancı to Heybeliada and Büyükada. Two per day sail from Beşiktaş via Kabataş and Eminönü. IDO ferries sail further out to the Marmara Islands and don't call at the Princes' Islands. Yassıada has no ferry but is being converted into a museum island, so boat trips or heli-tours may visit. == Get around == Between islands, the ferries are frequent enough for day-trips. Between Büyükada and Heybeliada takes 10 minutes. Most islands' sights are close to their ferry piers, so walking is the default transport. Büyükada is the only island big enough and with enough road network to merit wheels. Bicycle hire is available near the pier, and the main square with the clocktower is a block inland. Roads fan out from there to re-unite mid-island at Birlik Meydanı in the saddle between two hills. A steep path leads up from that junction to St George's Monastery. There are no private motor vehicles on any of the islands, only public service vehicles. İETT electric minibuses potter round Büyükada: BA-2 runs every 10 mins to Birlik Meydanı. BA-4 runs every 30 min down the east coast to the museum and Beltur Beach. Taxis wait by the ferry piers. On Heybeliada, minibuses HA-2 and HA-3 run round the coast. You hardly need them. Same goes for BU-1 and BU-7 on Burgazada and KA-1 and KA-7 on Kınalıada. The horse-drawn carriages (fayton) retired in 2020. == See == === Büyükada === Saatli Meydan - "Clocktower Square" - is town centre, a block inland from the ferry pier. This area is nondescript, you need to walk a few blocks east or (better still) west to find the 19th century wooden mansions built as summer homes for the wealthy. Mizzi Mansion west at Çankaya Cd 17 was built in brick in Italianate style in 1894. In the 1930s it was a hotel; it's now a private residence, no tours. 1 Trotsky's House is a ruined mansion at Derviş Sk 10. Leon Trotsky was a leading Bolshevik exiled from the Soviet Union in 1929. He lived here with his family under constant threat of murder either by Stalin's agents or by White Army officers who'd fled the revolution. He sought asylum further from their reach, and in 1933 France agreed to take him. By 1935 he was unwelcome in France and moved on to Norway, then in 1937 to Mexico City. There he survived two assassination attempts but in 1940 the third succeeded, with an ice pick driven through his head. 2 Prinkipo Greek Orphanage, Çarkıfelek Cd 91/1. Closed. Six-storey wooden building, probably the largest wooden building in Europe, fallen into ruin and fenced off. It was built in 1898 to be a luxury hotel and casino but instead was used as an orphanage until 1964. It's unsafe to approach but you can view the spooky exterior. There's occasional talk of restoration but nothing ever comes of it. (updated Jun 2026) 3 Islands Museum, Aya Nikola Mevkii, Büyükada, ☏ +90 216 382 6430. Tu-Su 10:30-18:00. Describing the islands from prehistoric times to the present day. (updated Jun 2026) 4 Church of Saint George (Hagios Giorgios, Aya Yorgi), Sanatoryum Yolu Sk.5. Daily 10:00-16:00. The Greek Orthodox church is at the peak of the archipelago, Yücetepe at 203 m. It's a steep 30 min walk up from Birlik Meydanı, too steep for a bicycle. The church building is unexceptional, but the backyard has a great view of the other islands and the sea. It's mobbed on St George's day, see below. (updated Jun 2026) 5 Viranbağ near the south point of Büyükada is one of the best places to watch the sunset over Heybeliada and Istanbul. There's a cafe, and a small beach below. === Heybeliada === Aya Nikola Church, İmralı Sk 11 (Block inland from pier). Orthodox church built mid 19th century and repaired after the earthquake of 1894. (updated Jun 2026) Bet Yaakov Synagogue is 100 m north of Aya Nikola at Orhan Sk 8. It was built in 1956 but is now derelict. Naval Academy stood 200 m south of the ferry pier. It closed in 2016. 6 Halki Seminary on Ümit Tepesi (Hope Hill) trained Greek Orthodox priests from 1844 to 1971. It stood on the site of the 9th century Holy Trinity Monastery, wrecked and rebuilt several times. It closed rather than be absorbed into Istanbul University as the government had decreed. And so it remains, a pawn in Greek-Turkish relations. 7 Değirmenburnu National Park, ☏ +90 216 351 9895. Daily 09:00-21:00. Park on the north headland - "Değirmen" means windmill and there's the tower of an old flour mill. The entrance fee of 60 TL is just the beginning, it costs more to use the beach or picnic area or anything else. (updated Jun 2026) 8 Inönü House Museum, Refah Şehitleri Cd 67, ☏ +90 216 351 8449. Tu-Su 10:00-12:30, 13:30-17:00. İsmet İnönü (1884-1973) was Atatürk's right-hand man, becoming president and three times prime minister after Atatürk died. He stayed awhile in this house, furnished in 1930s style. Signage is only in Turkish. Adult 320 TL. (updated Jun 2026) Abbas Paşa Mansion a block north of Inönü House Museum was built in 1894 for Abbas II, Khedive of Egypt and Sudan, then part of the Ottoman Empire. He was deposed by the British in 1914 when he backed Germany in the First World War. In 1945 the mansion was dismantled and re-located to Egypt, leaving only ornamental gates among the weeds. Gürpınar Museum commemorates the writer and politician Hüseyin Rahmi Gürpınar (1864-1944). It's 100 m south of Inönü House Museum on Demirtaş Sk 42 but has been closed for restoration since 2013. 9 Heybeliada Sanatorium was built in 1924. It's derelict and fenced off. === Burgazada === Burgazada is probably named for Pyrgos, a long-vanished fort. Church of St John the Baptist (Aya Yani) is Greek Orthodox, built in 1899 over ancient foundations. It's 100 m inland from the pier on Takımağa Meydanı Sk and only open for mass, Su 09:00-13:00. Sait Faik Abasıyanık House commemorates the short story writer Abasıyanık (1906-54). It's a short block west of Aya Yani at Çayır Sokak 15, open W-Su 10:30-16:00. Church of St George (Aya Yorgi) was built in 1897, part of a monastery. It's up a hill 1 km northwest of the pier at Gönüllü Cd 57, but is closed in 2026. Monastery of Christ is near the top of Bayraktepe the central hill. It was founded in Byzantine times but the present church is 19th century. It's rarely open. Kalpazankaya ("Counterfeiter's Rock") at the west tip of the island has good views. === Kınalıada === Kınalıada means "henna island" for its red earth, mined for iron and copper in antiquity. In Greek it was Proti (Πρώτη) as it's the first island encountered sailing out from the city. Kınalıada Mosque is 100 m south of the pier at Kınalı Çarşı Cd 15. It was built in 1964 in modern style and is meant to resemble a yacht. Church of St Gregory (Surp Krikor Lusavoriç) is Armenian, completed in 1857. It's at Akgünlük Sk 10, only 200 inland from the pier but the lane is steep. Transfiguration of Christ Monastery is near the peak of the island at Kınalı Çarşı Cd 77. It fell into ruin in the 18th century but a church was built in the 19th. This is only open for liturgy, Friday at 09:00. === Yassıada === Yassıada means "flat island" but the name was infamous after 1960 as the site of trials by the military junta who'd overthrown the government - deposed prime minister Adnan Menderes was one of those they hanged. It's therefore been re-branded as Democracy and Freedom Island, which cynics call Betonada, concrete island. Effectively the one museum in four sections recounts this story. Bulwer Mansion near the east tip is the ruin of a mock-castle erected for the British Ambassador Henry Bulwer in 1857. But he retired to England in 1865 and the mansion fell derelict. Sivriada seen 3 km northwest took the most macabre exile of these islands: in 1911 the stray dogs of Istanbul were rounded up and dumped there, where they had nothing to eat but each other, and 80,000 died. == Do == Grand Tour (Büyük Tur) means the 15 km circumference of Büyükada. The roads are well paved and scenic, with few gradients or vehicles. Bikes can be hired near the ferry pier. Boat trips start from the mainland city, not here. These are the way to view the outlying islands lacking a ferry service. Beaches are small, and you pay to use them. St George's Day on April 23 draws crowds to the monastery church, with various rituals and observances including walking there barefoot, leaving a wool trail, and burning candles. A long queue forms outside, to be admitted in groups of a dozen for a blessing by the priest. Few of the devotees are Christian let alone Greek Orthodox, but what the hell. == Buy == Büyükada has a dozen small supermarkets near the clocktower, typically open daily 09:00-21:00, and expensive by mainland standards. Similarly there's half-a-dozen apiece near the piers on Heybeliada, Burgazadası and Kınalıada. == Eat == === Büyükada === Büyükada pier and nearby streets have dozens of eating places. Popular choices include Fıçı, Nissi, Ali Baba, Süleyman, Botanik, Konak, Kervan and Ada Saray. Şekercisi Cafe is a coffee and dessert cafe at Özdemir Sk 8, open daily 08:30-21:00. Loc'ada Büyükada, Yılmaz Türk Cd 175 (200 m north of Island Museum), ☏ +90 531 525 1232. Pricey restaurant with rooms, you're paying for the view. (updated Jun 2026) 1 Lunapark Restaurant, Birlik Meydanı, ☏ +90 216 382 7237. M-F 10:00-21:00, Sa Su 10:00-23:00. Convenient restaurant in the mid-island square. It's not connected to the Lunapark chain of tatty amusement parks. (updated Jun 2026) Yücetepe Restaurant, Sanatoryum Yolu Sk 5, ☏ +90 216 382 1333. Daily 10:00-22:30. Within St George's monastery, this has great hilltop views. (updated Jun 2026) 2 Eskibağ Teras, ☏ +90 216 382 3820. Daily 10:00-23:00. Pleasant place with views from the terrace. (updated Jun 2026) === Heybeliada === Heybeliada pier strip has a dozen places. They include Papatya Kafe, Cafe Keyf, Heyamola, Barbayani, Marko Paşa, Ihlamur, Kayıkhane, Masal Cafe, Mira’da Kokoreç, Palamar, Zehra, Yeni Park, Erguvan, Perili Köşk, Başak Et Ve Balık, Munis Sokak Lezzet (below), The Corner (below) and Paprika Cafe. Munis Sokak Lezzet, Ayyıldız Cd 4, Heybeliada, ☏ +90 216 3511 552. Inexpensive family favourite. (updated Jun 2026) The Corner, Ayyıldız Cd 2, Heybeliada, ☏ +90 216 351 1216. Daily 10:00-22:00. Relaxed waterfront restaurant with trad fare. (updated Jun 2026) Helios Cafe, Refah Şehitleri Cd 63, Heybeliada (next to İnönü House Museum). Th-Tu 10:30-19:00, W 12:00-19:00. Pleasant place for cakes and croissants. (updated Jun 2026) == Drink == Büyükada waterfront has Tarzz Bar, Madame Sofia, Palya and Akasya. Sayfiye Cocktail Bar, Nevruz Sk 2, Büyükada. Temporarily closed. (updated Jun 2026) Heybeliada waterfront has Heya-Mola Bar and Shot Bar. == Sleep == === Büyükada === This has the most accommodation, near the ferry pier. Mom Hotel is a very basic place right by the ferry pier at Gülistan Cd 105. Mavi Palas is a simple clean place by the ferry pier at Eğri Sk 2, off Recep Koç Cd. Çarşi Pansiyon is almost next door on Eğri Sk. Marine House is across the street on Eğri Sk. Iris Pansiyon is round the corner on Fenerbahçeli Lefter Sk. Ada Palas Hotel, Çiçekli Yalı Sk 24, Büyükada (300 m south of ferry pier), ☏ +90 216 382 1444. Pleasant hotel with spacious rooms. B&B double 6500 TL. (updated Jun 2026) Ascot Hotel, Çınar Cd 78, Büyükada, ☏ +90 216 382 2888. Pleasant midtown hotel with a pool, garden, restaurant and bar. 22 rooms en-suite. (updated Jun 2026) Büyükada Comfort Hotel is 200 m west of the ferry pier at 23rd Nisan Cd 26. 1 Splendid Palace Hotel, 23rd Nisan Cd 39, Büyükada (300 m west of ferry pier), ☏ +90 216 382 6950. Best known hotel of the islands, luxurious upscale place in a 1908 Art Nouveau building. B&B double €230. (updated Jun 2026) Laden Palace is a block south of Splendid Palace at Kadıyoran Cd 16. 2 Anastasia Meziki Hotel, Malul Gazi Cd 24, Büyükada, ☏ +90 216 382 3444, info@mezikiotel.com. Charming friendly place in a historic mansion. It was a location for the 2007–09 Turkish TV series From the Lips to the Heart. B&B double €200. (updated Jun 2026) === Other islands === Heybeliada: Near the ferry pier are Heybeliada Butik Otel, Heybeliada Pansiyon, Ozdemir Pension, Selanikli Pension and Halki Prenset Pension. A few blocks inland are Yalı Butik Pansiyon, Ay & Myra Köşk Hotel and L'Isola Guesthouse. Burgazada has Villa Andrea, Pyrgos Otel and Mehtap 45. Kınalıada has Kınalı Otel, Kınalıada Nisi Pansiyon and Noya Köşk Otel. == Stay safe == Usual precautions around safeguarding valuables and beware traffic, even in the absence of private vehicles. Nasty dogs at the edge of town are more bark than bite. Keep moving, look mean and remind them that bad dogs go to Sivriada. == Connect == As of June 2026, all the islands and their ferry links have 4G from Türk Telekom and Turkcell, and a patchy signal from Vodafone. 5G has rolled out across the city but hasn’t yet reached the islands. == Go next == Kabataş is the closest mainland ferry pier to Sultanahmet, the unmissable Old City of Istanbul. Kadıköy is the most interesting of the Asia-side mainland districts. It's actually older than the Old City. Marmara Islands away to the south will involve doubling back to the city.