Silifke

Silifke is a city in the Cilician Mountains of Turkey, though only 15 km from the Mediterranean coast. It has a few antiquities and a wetland bird reserve, but for most visitors it's simply a stop-over touring the coast or heading for the ferry to Northern Cyprus. In 2022 Silifke and its associated villages had a population of 133,000. == Understand == Seleucia (Σελεύκεια) was one of over two dozen cities named for Seleucus I Nicator, the successor to Alexander the Great who came to rule much of Asia Minor: this one was distinguished as "Seleucia on the Calycadnus". That river is now called the Göksu, and it creates a fertile valley and a transport route inland through the mountains. The city included the port of Holmi, nowadays Taşucu, but that was vulnerable to maritime attack. So Silifke was not too far and not too near the sea. Silifke's economy has always been mainly agricultural, but it industrialised in the 19th and 20th centuries. == Get in == By plane: The nearest airport is Çukurova (COV IATA) 110 km east, with frequent flights from Istanbul (both IST and SAW), Ankara and Izmir. It replaced Adana in 2024. By road: Silifke is 520 km south of Ankara by D715 through Konya, Karaman and Mut. This is twisty-turny through the Cilician mountains south of Karaman, reckon 6 hours 30 min. Or take O-21 / D750 to Tarsus then the coast road west through Mersin, 590 km or 6 hours. D400 hugs the coast all the way eastwards from Bodrum, Fethiye, Antalya and Alanya, where it likewise encounters the mountains and becomes tortuous. It winds through Anamur and the string of little harbours to Taşucu (for Cyprus ferries) then Silifke. It continues to Mersin, Adana and Osmaniye, then forges on ever east as if it had ambitions to hug the Caspian coastline. By bus: Two buses a day from Istanbul take 14 hours via Ankara, Konya, Karaman and Mut. Four buses a day from Antalya take 7 hr 30 min via Alanya, Anamur and Taşucu. They continue to Erdemli, Mersin and Adana. The bus lines are Metro Turizm and Flixbus. Dolmuşes also run to Mersin and Adana, and the 15 km hop to Taşucu. 1 Otobüs Terminali the inter-city bus station is in town centre at the junction of D715 and D400. By train: The nearest practical station is Karaman 150 km north, on the high-speed railway from Istanbul and Ankara via Konya. Mersin 90 km east has commuter trains from Adana, but Adana has poor connections to the rest of the rail network. == Get around == Silifke's main sights and accommodation are within walking range. You need wheels for the delta and up the river valley. == See == 1 Reşadiye Mosque on Fevzi Çakmak Cd is from 1912, with Roman pillars built into its porches. 2 Temple of Jupiter was built 2nd century AD, when it was the chief religious site in town. It's now just a few columns and courses of masonry along İnönü Blv 300 m west of the bus station. The storks' nest atop the tallest column is contemporary yet somehow timeless. Atatürk Museum at Fevzi Çakmak Cd 120 is the house where he stayed on a visit of 1925. 3 Alaadin Mosque is from 13th century, the Seljuk era, though much modified since. It's at the foot of Fevzi Çakmak Cd and open daily 09:00-17:00. Roman Bridge spans the Göksu River just north of Alaadin Mosque. It was built in 77 AD in the time of Emperor Hadrian but was repaired and widened in modern times to carry traffic. 4 Silifke Castle is on a crag west of town. It may date to 3rd century BC, but most of it is from 1200 when Leo I of Armenia captured these heights, handed it over to the Crusaders and told them to keep the Seljuks at bay. 5 Archaeology Museum, Taşucu Cd 29. Small but interesting display of local antiquities. Adult 100 TL. (updated Feb 2025) 6 Aya Tekla Church is in a cave 1 km north of D400 towards Taşucu. Saint Thecla was from Konya and a follower of St Paul. After several cartoonish near-martyrdoms she came to live here for many years, banging on about the need for chastity. The cave became a pilgrimage site and around 480 AD was turned into a church. You can see the scrappy ruins above ground free but the cave-church is seldom open. 7 Göksu Delta Bird Reserve is a wetland with brackish lagoons, accessible free 24 hours. It's best approached from the east along a narrow but asphalted lane. The west side can be reached from Taşucu; you can hike along the dirt track between but vehicles are not permitted. == Do == Birdwatching in Göksu Delta. == Buy == Migros is the main supermarket chain, with one north of the river on Atatürk Cd, and one south on Menderes Cd. They're both open daily 09:00-22:00. == Eat == By the bus station are Nazif Ustanın Yeri, Saray Künefe, and Otogar Özkaymak Pastanleri. South of the river are Yengeçduraği (for crabs), Mahzen, Casero Sahne, Gözde, Sığınak Cafe, Giritli and Birtat Tantuni. North of the river are Bleu et Blanc, Mersin Şef Tantuni, Rüzgar and Ciğerci Bahattin. == Drink == Pub-cafes south of the river are Crow Bar, İki 1A Kafasi Silifke, Mila Lounge, Moojoo and Haliç. == Sleep == Otel Arısan, İnönü Blv 110 (100 m west of bus station), ☏ +90 538 714 0032, otelarisan33@hotmail.com. Clean and convenient. B&B double 2000 TL. (updated Feb 2025) Ayatekla Hotel is a basic place opposite Otel Arısan on İnönü Blv. 1 Göksu Hotel, Abdi İpekçi Cd D6, ☏ +90 324 712 1021. Simple and elderly but comfy, your best choice downtown. B&B double 2200 TL. (updated Feb 2025) Taşucu ferry port 15 km south has more accommodation. == Connect == As of Feb 2025, Silifke and the coast highway have 4G from all Turkish carriers, with a variable signal on the road west to Mut and Karaman. 5G has not yet rolled out in Turkey. == Go next == Taşucu for ferries to Kyrenia in Northern Cyprus. Anamur is the next sizable town west along the coast. The road then winds over the mountains to the Alanya-Antalya resort strip. Narlıkuyu 20 km east has the Heaven and Hell caves. The coast road east continues to Mersin, Tarsus and Adana.