Giresun

Giresun is a city in the Eastern Karadeniz region, on the Black Sea coast of Turkey. In 2023 the population was 144,000. == Understand == Cherries probably originated in these parts: the town's ancient name was kerasos in Greek and cerasus in Latin. The mountain slopes suit them (they need cold winters) and cultivated cherries were brought to Rome in 72 BC. Hazelnuts also do well: a third of the world's production is from the strip between Giresun and Ordu. The original core of the city is around a promontory and natural harbour. The earliest substantial remains are on the heights, from the citadel from the Byzantine era and its offshoot Empire of Trebizond. Giresun now spreads for several km either side along a beach strip. It has domestic tourism and a relatively liberal culture compared with its neighbours in the region, but international tourists seldom come this way. In legend the Argonauts stopped off here on their quest for the Golden Fleece, as they'd heard about the Amazon women's fertility rites on Giresun Island. They'd have blanched and fled all the way back to Thessaly if they knew what western women get up to in Turkish resorts nowadays. == Get in == Giresun stands on the coastal highway D010, 200 km east of Samsun and 130 km west of Trabzon. 1 Ordu-Giresun Airport (OGU IATA) has flights every couple of hours from Istanbul (both IST IATA and SAW IATA), and once a day from Ankara and Izmir. The airport is clean and adequate for its limited throughput, with the usual facilities including car hire. It's 32 km west of Giresun, built on reclaimed land into the Black Sea. Havas shuttle bus runs downtown. You could also pick up a dolmuş on the nearby highway. Trabzon Airport (TZX IATA) 137 km east has more domestic, European, and Middle Eastern flights. Buses from Istanbul run every couple of hours and take 15 hours via Gebze, Samsun and Ordu; those from Ankara take 11 hours. Most buses continue east along the coast to Trabzon (2 hours), and one per day continues to Rize and Batumi in Georgia. Bus lines are Metro Turizm and Flixbus. 2 Giresun Otogar is the inter-city bus station, 4 km west of the old core of town. == Get around == The old core of town is walkable, but the town straggles out along the coast. Dolmuşes ply the main streets. == See == 1 Giresun Museum, Fevzi Paşa Cd (off Atatürk Blv), ☏ +90 454 212 1322, giresunmuzesi@kultur.gov.tr. Daily 08:00-17:00. Housed in an 18th century Greek basilica, this has exhibits from Hellenistic to Ottoman times, and items such as ancient houseware, weapons, carpets, and jewellery. Free. (updated May 2025) Zeytinlik is the old quarter inland from the museum, with many Ottoman merchants' mansions along its cobbled alleys. 2 Citadel. 24/7. Atop the promontory, this was built around 190 BC by order of Pharnaces I of Pontus, son of king Mithridates III. At its highest point is the tomb of Atatürk’s bodyguard Topal Osman (1883-23), born in Giresun. North are the Martyr’s Cemetery and the tomb of Kurbande, a follower of the 13th century Haji Bektash Veli. Free. (updated May 2025) Kale Mosque at the west foot of the citadel hill was built in its present form in 1830. Kapo Mosque or Seyyid Mehmet Pasha Mosque is 100 m further south. It was first built in wood in 1593, but demolished and re-built in stone in 1896. Seyyid Vakkas Tomb is a little octagonal kiosk on Bekirpaşa Cd, 100 m east of Kapo Mosque. He fell in battle in the 15th century but this tomb is 19th century. Çınarlar Mosque 100 m east of the tomb was completed in 1896. Haci Huseyin Mosque is on Poyraz Cd by the marina. It was built in 1861. Haci Miktad Mosque by the freight harbour was built in 1889. Giresun Island Botanical Garden is just a tired strip of grass east of the marina with a view of the island. 3 Giresun Island 1.2 km offshore is the largest Turkish island in the Black Sea, all 200 m x 200 m of it. Boat trips visit; push your way through the shrubbery to view the ruins of a roofless temple (circa 3rd century BC), Roman fortifications, and a monastery (5th / 6th century AD). The island was abandoned in the 15th century. Breathless legends from ancient times to the present claim it was the abode of Amazons, insatiable man-hungry female warriors, they wish. 4 Kuzalan Nature Park (Kuzalan Tabiat Parkı) starts 47 km south of Giresun on D865 towards Dereli and Sivas. The first attraction is the waterfalls on the mountainside, with a roadside viewpoint. The stream cascades down for 1 km into Mavi Göl, "blue lake" for its soda-heavy waters. Take the boardwalk through the forest to its rim. 3 km further on, the flow is slowed and its minerals are deposited into a series of Pamukkale-like travertine pools, at Göksu Travertenleri. Here the road zags south to continue up the mountain. == Do == Beaches: the best are west of town beyond the bus station, in Teyyaredüzü district. Football: Giresunspor play soccer in TFF 2. Lig, the third tier. Their home ground Çotanak Sports Complex (capacity 21,500) is southeast edge of town on D865. Their former ground Ataturk Stadium has been demolished. Marina: small leisure craft berth east side of old town. The commercial freight harbour is west side. == Buy == Lots of small supermarkets, usually open 08:30-22:00. Hazelnuts and their products (eg butter) are abundant, but check your own country's import regulations before buying to take home. == Eat == Old town has Ziyade, Giresun Sanayicileri, Serender, Bohca Manti, Big Bros, Mustafa Patar desserts and Haşlamacı for soup. There's a string of eateries along the seafront west. == Drink == Giresun's free-standing bars folded during Covid. Try the cafes and restaurants. == Sleep == Ada Otel, Çapulacılar Sk 8 (off Osmanağa Cd), ☏ +90 454 212 6514. Basic place, room only. (updated May 2025) Hotel Kit-Tur, Arifbey Cd (corner of Gazi Cd), ☏ +90 454 212 0245. Basic and tatty. (updated May 2025) 1 Kale Otel, Kazancılar Sk 22, ☏ +90 454 212 7787. Clean welcoming budget rooms up a steep cobbled street. (updated May 2025) 2 Osmanbey Otel, Cemal Gürsel Cd 19, ☏ +90 543 505 2526. Friendly central hotel. B&B double 2500 TL. (updated May 2025) Air Boss Giresun City Hotel, Alpaslan Cd 27 (by harbour entrance, 100 m west of Osmanbey), ☏ +90 454 700 7171. Clean, comfy and central. B&B double 2500 TL. (updated May 2025) 3 La Quinta by Wyndham (formerly New Jasmine), Ada Sk 14, ☏ +90 454 214 1646. Great reviews for this smart hotel on the coast. B&B double 5000 TL. (updated May 2025) Ramada Giresun is 5 km east of the airport, 25 km west of town. == Connect == As of May 2025, Giresun and the coast highway have 4G from all Turkish carriers, but there's no signal in the mountains further south. 5G has not yet rolled out in Turkey. == Go next == Ordu the next town west has museums, mosques and a beach strip. Trabzon east is the region's chief city, with a huge heritage of museums and religious buildings.