Amasra

Not to be confused with Amasya in Central Karadeniz region. Amasra is a small harbour and beach resort on the Black Sea, 310 km north of Ankara in the Western Karadeniz region of Turkey. In 2021 it had a population of 6098, with about another 8000 in its outlying villages. It's the most attractive town on this coast and is mobbed in summer by tourists from Istanbul or Ankara. == Understand == The ancient Greeks called the town Sesestrus, and Amastris (Ἄμαστρις) referred to its confederation with two other towns. It was the best defended of the three, on a small island which by their day had already fused to the mainland by a tombola isthmus. This island was fortified into a citadel or acropolis by successive occupants, most recently by the Genoese in the 14th / 15th centuries, and fortifications bridged a narrow channel onto the adjacent island now called Boztepe. The isthmus created natural harbours on either side, the larger being to the east. The hinterland has patches of industry, as this area is part of the Zonguldak coalfield. The coal strata are within the mountains and can be reached by tunnelling sideways or even slightly upwards, which makes drainage simple. The closest mine is 5 km west and its surrounds are one big mess. On 14 Oct 2022 an explosion in this mine killed 42 and injured 27, one of Turkey's worst mining incidents. This industry mostly affects Bartın the provincial capital and transport hub. Amasra is little affected and its narrow streets within the citadel ramparts are traffic-restricted. There are no big hotels and international visitors seldom come this way, but in summer it's very busy with tourists from Ankara and Istanbul, both within a day's drive. October to May is very quiet and many businesses close for winter. Shoulder season in early June or in September are good times to visit. == Get in == By bus, travel to Bartın 16 km south of Amasra then take a dolmuş: these run every 30 min at the height of summer, every two hours in winter, and take 20-30 min. Buses run to Bartın from Istanbul (6 daily, 8 hours, 600 TL in 2024), Ankara (8 daily, 5 hours) and Samsun (twice daily, 9 hours). Local buses ply to Bartın every hour or so from Kastamonu (4 hr 30 min), Safranbolu (75 min) and Karabük. Bus lines are Metro Turizm, Kamil Koc (now part of Flixbus), Efe Tur and Lüks Bartın. 1 Otobüs Terminali the bus station in Amasra is just an open square west side of the bay. 2 Bartın Otogar is on D010 five km south of Bartın town. Dolmuşes to Amasra run from here. By road from Istanbul take O-7 / E80 east, and from Ankara E89 north, to Yeniçağa junction. From there follow D750 then D010 north via Bartın. == Get around == The town is compact enough that you can walk everywhere. Parking space is extremely hard to come by anywhere in the town in high season. With some luck, you may be able to secure a spot on the breakwater for about €4.50 a day for a car. == See == Amasra Museum, Fikret Uysal Sk 2 (south side of bus station), ☏ +90 378 315 1006. Tu-Su 08:30-19:30. Small collection of local antiquities. (updated Jan 2024) 1 Deniz Feneri the "lighthouse" is just a simple harbour light (the long-distance light is atop Boztepe), but it's at the end of a breakwater with views back over town. Amasra Citadel (kalesi) refers to all of the old town, with stretches of defensive wall here and there. Fatih Mosque just east of Kemere bridge was built as a Byzantine church in the 9th century. It was converted to a mosque when the town was captured by the Ottomans in 1460, and remains in use. 2 Kemere Bridge is a photogenic single arch across the narrow channel to Boztepe island. It was built in Roman times and kept in repair since; pity about the ugly water pipe along the parapet. An ancient gatehouse at the island end blocks any vehicle much bigger than a Segway. 3 Büyükada meaning Big Island is uninhabited. It's also known as Tavşan Adası, Rabbit Island, the same as just about any rocky, scrubby islet around Turkey's coastline. The scraps of its Byzantine monastery have been carried off by souvenir hunters. 4 Bedestan is 1 km south of town by the police base. It was a Roman palace built around 100 AD, but became a bedestan or caravanserai when travelling merchants camped overnight within its stout walls. These remain but the area is sadly neglected. 5 Bird Rock (Kuşkayası) is a Roman monument on D010 four km south of Amasra. It was carved when the Romans built a road to the coast around 50 AD in honour of Emperor Claudius - his reign greatly expanded the empire and needed improved transport links to control it. The monument has been hacked about down the years but its figures are still distinct. 6 Bartın Town Museum (Bartın Kent Müzesi), Hükümet Cd 14, ☏ +90 378 227 1099. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. This is about the only reason you might linger in Bartın town. (updated Jan 2024) == Do == Beaches: Büyük Liman east and Küçük Liman west are both sandy, but become crowded and grubby at the height of the season. Boat trips from the main harbour (east) putter out to Büyükada and along the rugged coast. A rough trail encircles the uninhabited northern half of Boztepe, coming nervously close to the cliffs near the lighthouse. == Buy == There's a slew of stores along the main street Cumhuriyet Cd. Karadeniz Market is the biggest, open daily 09:00-21:00. Most souvenir shops are along Çekiciler Sk just outside the old town. == Eat == Seafood is as fresh as it gets. Local specialties are Amasra pide, a veggie pizza, and Amasra salad, a feast of greens plus whatever vegetables are in season, pickles and lots of vinegar. As for the places, East by the marina are Carlos, Nurşen Hanım'ın Yeri, Tuana, Balikcinin Yeri, Çeşmi Cihan and Lotis Balık. On boats moored by the marina are Vapur, Amasra Balık and Pirate of Amasra. Along west beach are Barba Bianca, Mustafa Amca'nın Yeri/Canlı Balık, Günbatımı Balık and Çınar Balık. == Drink == Most cafes serve beer and wine. Bars include Kupa Pub, Amasra Rıhtım Cafe and Cafe N Bistro. Ayran is a traditional cold drink, diluted yoghurt with salt added. == Sleep == Balkaya Pansiyon has clean small rooms. It's by the harbour on Mithat Ceylan Cd. Yağmur Pansiyon is a rental apartment on Kemere Sk near the bridge. Sardinia Otel, Küçük Liman Cd 20, ☏ +90 378 315 2233. Tiny but clean rooms with views of the old town. B&B double 1200 TL. (updated Jan 2024) 1 North Door Hotel, Turgut Işık Cd 78, ☏ +90 378 201 0012. About the smartest place you'll find in town, but the bar is not set very high. B&B double 1500 TL. (updated Jan 2024) 2 Gunter Seher Hotel, Cide Yolu Cd, ☏ +90 532 473 9638. Pleasant small hotel 1 km east of town. B&B double 1000 TL. (updated Jan 2024) == Connect == As of Jan 2024, Amasra has 4G from all Turkish carriers, but the signal on the approach highway from Bartin is patchy. 5G has not rolled out in Turkey. == Go next == East, a series of small resorts are strung along the coast of Bartın province: Çakraz, Hisarköy, Kurucaşile, and part of Kapısuyu. This village 45 km east of Amasra is divided by a stream that forms the boundary with the next province Kastamonu, so the two sides elect different mayors and on landlines have to dial the area code to call their neighbours across the stream. Gideros 57 km east of Amasra is one of the more attractive resorts along the Kastamonu coastline. Eventually this road leads to Cide, İnebolu, Sinop and Samsun. Safranbolu is 100 km south on the road to Ankara. It's a well-preserved old Ottoman town. The main road west from Bartın swings away from the coast. Zonguldak is a grubby industrial harbour for the coal and quarrying industries. An alternative road to Zonguldak winds over the coastal mountains via İnkumu, a relatively popular resort, Güzelcehisar with a set of basalt columns springing up right from its beach, Filyos near the Roman ruins of Tios, Türkali with a scenic beach, Çatalağzı, a dreary mining town, and Kilimli, Zonguldak's eastern suburb.