Iskenderun

İskenderun is a city in Hatay, on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey close to the border with Syria. It's a major port and has heavy industry. In 2022 its population was 187,000 but in 2023 this region suffered a major earthquake and is still recovering. == Understand == This is one of many cities named for Alexander the Great; he and his successors subdued vast swathes of Asia and North Africa. It stands on the coast at the foot of a pass through the mountains towards Antakya and Syria, and in 333 BC Alexander was victorious at the Battle of Issus somewhere on the plains on the other side. Medieval travellers called the city Alexandretta, the smaller one, to distinguish it from its greater namesake in Egypt. The Ottomans conquered the region of Hatay in the 15th century, but after the First World War this was initially not incorporated into the new Republic of Turkey, but awarded to the victors France. It remained part of French Syria till 1938, was briefly independent, then was absorbed into Turkey. The city has long been industrial, with grimy petrochemical plants and steelworks in its north suburbs. The 1989 film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade has its climactic scenes supposedly in Hatay during independence, but the location scouts took one look at Iskenderun and decided to film in southern Spain. == Get in == === By plane === Hatay Airport (HTY IATA) has flights several times a day from Istanbul (both IST and SAW) and daily from Ankara. It's 45 km south near Antakya: driving takes 45-60 min as the highway snakes over Belen pass. === By road === From Adana take motorway O-52 (toll) east onto O-53 / E91 then south, 133 km, say 1 hr 40 min. From Gaziantep follow O-52 west past Osmaniye to join O-53. The coast road D817 flanks O-53: it's toll-free but congested with trucks and far from scenic. South of İskenderun O-53 joins D817 and then D825 southwards to Antakya. This is a good divided highway but twists and turns over Belen Pass through the Amanos Mountains. Highways from Antakya continue towards Syria: south for Latakia, Tartus, Tripoli and Beirut, east for Aleppo, Hama and Damascus. === By bus === Buses from Istanbul run every couple of hours and take 13 hours via Ankara, Niğde and Adana, heading to Antakya. Buses no longer run from Beirut or Aleppo. Bus lines are Metro Turizm, Kamil Koç (now part of Flixbus) and Has Turizm. 1 İskenderun Otogarı the bus station on Sanayi Cd was already a tatty crumbling place before the earthquake, and now has only makeshift facilities. Many Turkish cities have migrated their bus terminals to the highways edge of town, to avoid traffic snarls, but there's no word on where or when a new station might be built here. === By train === Trains to Iskenderun are suspended long-term because of interminable engineering works around Adana. İskenderun Garı the station is therefore a forlorn place. === By boat === İskenderun's port facilities were wrecked in the 2023 earthquake. Ferries no longer sail from Kyrenia in Northern Cyprus: the nearest route is via Mersin. The ferry port was at Madenli, 22 km southwest along the road to Arsuz. It's not known when it might be rebuilt. == Get around == Dolmuşes ply the main streets and to outlying villages. Ask your accommodation about local routes. == See == The waterfront is Atatürk Blv. In the east is the harbour and statue of Atatürk, midway is the Naval Museum (below), and west is Nihal Atakaş Mosque (below). It's pleasant enough for sunset strolls: most buildings are nondescript, but Central Bank at the corner of Ulucami Cd has a 1930s Art Deco facade. West of the mosque the boulevard becomes Cengiz Topel Cd. 1 Iskenderun Naval Museum, Atatürk Blv, ☏ +90 326 614 1395. Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. Exhibiting the city's maritime history, and the incorporation of Hatay into Turkey. Foreigner €9. (updated Jun 2026) Kaptan Mehmet Paşa Mosque was built in 1864. It's on Şehit Pamir Cd, two blocks inland from the Atatürk statue. Grand Mosque opposite was destroyed in the earthquake and its site has been cleared. 2 Nihal Atakaş Mosque is smart and modern but in traditional style. 3 Surp Karasun Manuk Armenian Church, 52nd Sk. This Armenian church was built in 1871 and survived the earthquake, but is seldom open. (updated Jun 2026) Cathedral of the Annunciation at Mithatpaşa Cd 59 was wrecked in the 2023 earthquake and is unlikely to be rebuilt. === Futher out === 4 Payas is a town 25 km north of Iskenderun. The main sight is the 16th century Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Caravanserai, where merchant caravans hunkered overnight against banditry or pilfering. The castle facing it is open M-F 09:00-17:00. Also in the complex are an imaret - a soup kitchen - and ancient bridge. 5 Issos, 54 km north near Erzin, is the remains of an ancient aqueduct. It's debatable whether this was the site of the city of Issos or of the three major battles fought in its vicinity: in 333 BC when Alexander the Great defeated Darius III of Persia, in 194 AD when P Cornelius Anullinus defeated Pescennius Niger, and in 622 AD when Byzantine emperor Heraclius defeated the Sassanid Shahrbaraz. Only if you're passing, but you do have to come this way to and from Hatay, hence the battles. 6 Soğukoluk Plateau is where folk from Iskenderun come to escape the summer heat. It's up in the pine forests 17 km south of town, near Müftüler. 7 Belen is a town astride the pass through the Amanos Mountains towards Antakya and Syria. You might stop for lunch. Its Ottoman architecture has mostly succumbed to 20th century tat. 8 Arsuz is a beach resort 35 km south of Iskenderun. Nothing remains of the old settlement of Rhossus or Rhopolis. The road continues twisting and turning along the coast to Çevlik, where you can turn inland to Antakya. == Do == Beach: the city beach starts 1 km west of Nihal Atakaş Mosque. It's narrow, but you're unlikely to find it mobbed with holidaymakers. Football: İskenderunspor play soccer in TFF 2. Lig, the third tier. 5 Temmuz sports ground is on 152nd Sk, south side of town. Birdwatching: bird migration flyways from the Balkans and Caucasus converge in this area on the way to and from the south. == Buy == Park Forbes AVM is a shopping mall on the waterfront by Nihal Atakaş Mosque, open daily 10:00-22:00. Lots of small supermarkets, Migros are the main chain. == Eat == Eating places are a block or two back from the waterfront, around Şehit Pamir Cd. They have trad Turkish fare such as döner kebab, but Hatay region is also influenced by Syrian cuisine so look out for meze and desserts such as künefe. == Drink == Not a conservative area so cafes serve alcohol, but no free-standing bars. == Sleep == 1 La Perla Hotel, 47th Sk 47, ☏ +90 532 597 6866. In an early 19th century building, comfort and cleanliness varies but the main drawback is music from the bar blasting out late nights. (updated Jun 2026) Grand Akçalı Otel is a short block north of La Perla at Şehit Pamir Cd 46. İskenderun Otel is a block south of La Perla at Kanatlı Cd 55. Aykut Palas is a basic place on 98th Sk, corner with Ulu Cami Cd. 2 Ramada İskenderun Harbour, 5 Temmuz Cd 42, ☏ +90 326 617 8181. Business-type hotel, mostly efficient and clean. (updated Jun 2026) == Connect == As of June 2026, Iskenderun and its approach roads have 4G from all Turkish carriers, and 5G in city centre. == Go next == Antakya south is the provincial capital, best known for its early Christian community. Adana northwest is a good staging post towards the Mediterranean resorts and Anatolia. Its airbase and associated industry means a good selection of hotels. Cities northeast such as Gaziantep were even worse damaged by the earthquake.