Venice/Dorsoduro

Dorsoduro is one of six sestieri (districts) that make up historic Venice. == Get in == As usual in Venice, walking is the best choice for getting anywhere. The Ponte dell'Accademia bridge links Dorsoduro with the main tourist quarters in San Marco. === By vaporetto === The often-crowded Line 1 has three stops in Dorsoduro. Additionally, there's a limited service directly from the airport. The Giudecca island can be reached only by vaporetto lines 2, 4.1, 4.2, 8 and N. === By ferry === Most ferries arrive at the main terminal in Santa Croce. One exception to this are ferries operated by Venezia Lines, which has daily departures from ports in Croatia and arrives at the San Basilio Ferry Terminal right here in Dorsoduro. 1 San Basilio Ferry Terminal. (updated Oct 2021) == Get around == To get around you might need a vaporetto, because the Giudecca Canal separates the two main parts of the Dorsoduro sestiere. == See == === Churches === 1 I Gesuati (Santa Maria del Rosario), Fondamenta Zattere Ai Gesuati, ☏ +39 041 5230625. Daily 08:00-12:00, 17:00-19:00. 18th-century Dominican church on the Giudecca canal. The classical style building has a well-lit interior and is exceptional in preserving its original layout and Rococo decoration intact. The church and almost all its sculpture and paintings were created within a 30-year period: construction began in 1725, the church was consecrated in 1743, and the last sculptural decoration was in place by 1755. (updated Oct 2021) 2 S. Maria della Salute, Campo delle Salute, Dorsoduro, ☏ +39 041 5225558. 08:30-12:00, 15:00-17:30. As a votive offering for the city's deliverance from the Black Plague, the church was designed in the then fashionable Baroque style. Construction began in 1631. Most of the objects of art housed in the church bear references to the Black Death. Because of its location between the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, its dome was an important addition to the Venice skyline and soon became emblematic of the city, appearing in many artworks, such as those by Canaletto, Francesco Guardi, J. M. W. Turner, and John Singer Sargent. 3 Church of Saint Sebastian (Chiesa di San Sebastiano). 16th-century Roman Catholic church, houses a cycle of paintings by the artist Paolo Veronese as well as paintings by Tintoretto and Titian. Includes the tomb of Paolo Veronese, a painter from Verona whose career was in Venice (1528-1588). (updated Oct 2021) 4 Santa Maria del Carmelo church (Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Carmini). Large 14th-century Roman Catholic church. (updated Oct 2021) 5 San Nicolò dei Mendicoli church (Chiesa di San Nicolò dei Mendicoli). (updated Oct 2021) 6 SS. Redentore, Fondamente della Croce, Giudecca. === Museums === 7 Punta della Dogana, Dorsuduro 2 (On the tip between Grand Canal and Giudecca Canal, vaporetto line 1 to Salute), ☏ +39 041 2001057. W-M 10:00 to 19:00, closed Tu and Dec 24. Former customs house, centre for contemporary art, permanent exhibition of works from the François Pinault Collection. Renovation by world renowned architect Tadao Ando. Entrance €15, reduced €10. (updated Oct 2021) 8 Ca' Rezzonico - Museum of 18th Century Venice (Musei del Settecento Veneziano), Dorsoduro 3136 (Vaporetto line 1 to Ca' Rezzonico), ☏ +39 041 2410100. Nov-Mar: 10:00-17:00, Apr-Oct: 10:00-18:00; closed Dec 25, Jan 1, May 1. Museum of the 18th century in Venice - attempts to revive the domestic atmosphere of Venetian nobilities. Furniture, interior decoration, paintings by Guardi, Canaletto, Tiepolo. On the third floor important paintings of the Venetian school. A MUVE museum. Adults €8, reduced €5.50. (updated Oct 2021) 9 Gallerie dell'Accademia, Campo della Carità, 1050 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2 to Accademia). M 08:15-14:00, Tu-Su 08:15-19:15 (ticket office closes 1 hr before). Venice's most significant art museum which is also one of Italy's best. Among the most important paintings in the Accademia are: Gentile Bellini: Procession on St. Mark’s Square (1496) and Miracle of the Cross at the Bridge of S. Lorenzo (1500), Giovanni Bellini: Pieta (1500), Jacopo Bellini: Madonna with Child and Cherubs (ca. 1450), Paris Bordenone: A fisherman presents the ring of St. Mark to the doge (ca. 1535), Vittore Carpaccio: Legend of Saint Ursula (1490-1498), Cima da Conegliano: The Holy Virgin under the Orange Tree (ca. 1496), Giorgione (1477-1510): The Tempest and La Vecchia ("The Old Woman"), Andrea Mantegna (1431-1506): St. George, Veronese Paolo (1528-1588): The Feast in the House of Levi (1573), Tintoretto: The Miracles of St. Mark (1548), and Titian: Pietà (ca. 1576). Adults €16, reduced €7.50, advanced reservation fee €1.50. (updated Oct 2021) 10 Gallery Palazzo Cini (Galleria di Palazzo Cini), Campo San Vio, 864 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2 to Accademia), ☏ +39 041 241 1281. Former residence of Italian industrialist Vittorio Cini who amassed large collection of Italian art. The gallery houses a collection of 15th and 16th cent paintings from Tuscany and Ferrara, period furniture, silver, ivory and ceramic objects. (updated Oct 2021) 11 The Peggy Guggenheim Museum, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (east of the Accademia bridge, on the southern side of the Grand Canal), ☏ +39 041 2405411. W-M 10:00-18:00. Closed on Tuesdays and on 25 December. Open on national holidays (including Tuesdays). Offers a personal collection of modern art collected by Peggy Guggenheim. Peggy was an American married to modern artist Max Ernst, and funded a number of his contemporaries. The gallery includes a sculpture garden and works by Picasso, Kandinsky, Gorky, Tanguy, Duchamp, Pollock, Dali, and Mondrian. Adult €17, seniors (over 65 years) €15, students (25 years and under with valid student ID) €10, youth 10-18 €9, 9 and younger free. (updated Nov 2023) 12 Scuola Grande dei Carmini, Dorsoduro, 2617 (Near campo Santa Margherita, Vaporetto line 1 to Ca' Rezzonico), ☏ +39 041 5289420. Daily 11:00-16:00, closed Dec 25, Jan 1. Painting cycles dedicated to the Madonna del Carmine, canvases by Tiepolo and Padoviano. Entrance €5, reduced €4. (updated Aug 2022) 13 Le Macchine di Leonardo a Venezia, Campo San Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2771, ☏ +39 339 7985464, paolotarchia@tiscali.it. Daily 10:00-19:00. An exhibition in the Chiesa di San Barnaba showing around forty models of machines reproduced from Leonardo's codices. Some of the exhibits are interactive and copies of the codices are available for further reading. The church is an attraction in itself: it's the one under which Indiana Jones finds catacombs in The Last Crusade, by the way). Adults €9, over-65s, children and students €6. (updated Jun 2025) == Do == 1 Zattere, Dorsoduro. It's a long and sunny walk along the Giudecca canal, protected during winter time from cold northerly winds for being exposed to south and shielded by buildings. You might find interesting to see how a gondola is made, stopping by the Squero (Venetian for small ship yard) across the canal near San Trovaso Church. It's one of the few still in business in town. With some luck, you'll see some gondole through various manufacturing steps (gondole are not straight to counterbalance the gondoliere push). 2 Scuola Grande dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro 2616-2617, ☏ +39 041 5289420, info@scuolagrandecarmini.it. Daily 11:00-17:00. €5 full price; €4 concession. 3 The Avogaria Theatre (Teatro a l'Avogaria), Corte Zappa, Dorsoduro, 1617. The smallest theatre in Venice, housed in an unassuming former workshop. (updated Oct 2021) == Buy == 1 Pasticceria Tonolo, Calle San Pantalon, 3764 (400 m east of Piazzale Roma), ☏ +39 041 523 7209. 07:30-20:00, closed Sunday afternoons and Mondays. Hugely popular patisserie which has been around since late 19th century. Their cake with crystallized fruits and marzipan cake are must-tries. While they do offer a few seats you are much better off taking the pastries with you. Be there early to beat the queues. (updated Aug 2022) == Eat == === Budget === 1 Pizza al volo. Sells superb pizza by the (extremely large) slice in Campo Santa Margherita for approximately €1.80 a slice, €5 a whole pizza. It is by the fresh fish stall under a green awning. 2 La Tecia Vegana, Fondamenta Santa Marta, 2104. (updated Aug 2022) 3 Bacaro Vintidò, Calle Dona Onesta, 3928/29. (updated Jul 2022) 4 Idea Pizza, C. Crosera, 3948. (updated Jul 2022) 5 Corner Pub, Calle Chiesa, 684. (updated Jul 2022) 6 Osteria Al Squero, Dorsoduro, 943. (updated Jul 2022) 7 La Foca, Fondamenta Ponte Piccolo, 324. Pizza (updated Aug 2022) 8 Ristorante Pizzeria Ai Tre Scaini, Zitelle, Calle Michelangelo, 53c. (updated Aug 2022) === Mid-range === 9 La Bitta, Calle Lunga S. Barnaba, 2753 A, ☏ +39 041 523 0531. Meals served 18:00-23:00, closed in August. This busy but friendly restaurant is in the more studenty area of Dorsoduro, and attracts a mixture of locals and tourists. They have some excellent Italian dishes, which are reflected in the prices, plus they have a great selection of wines. (updated Oct 2021) 10 Osteria Ai Do Farai, Calle del Cappeller, 3278 (100 m west of Cà Foscari), ☏ +39 041 277 0369. Serves fresh shell fish. Taste their spaghetti al dente with razor shells. (updated Aug 2022) 11 Osteria Enoteca Ai Artisti, Fondamenta della Toletta 1169, ☏ +39 041 523 8944. An excellent restaurant, small but comfortable with a few tables alongside a tiny canal. Food is fresh and delicious, not too expensive. Large selection of wines. Menu changing daily. Meals from €20-25. (updated Aug 2022) === Splurge === == Drink == There's a number of bars clustered around Campo Santa Margherita mostly frequented by younger locals. 1 Chet Bar, Sestiere Dorsoduro, 3684 (Northern end of Campo Santa Margherita). Daily 17:00-02:00. The closest thing to a dive bar you'll find in Venice, except that the cocktails actually are pretty good. (updated Aug 2022) 2 Il Caffè Rosso, Sestiere Dorsoduro, 2963 (Eastern side of Campo Santa Margherita, look for the entrance painted in red), ☏ +39 041 528 7998. Small but hugely popular café at Campo Santa Margherita. Serves coffee and sandwiches during the day, and excellent spritz during nights. (updated Dec 2021) 3 Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi (Vini il Cantinone), Fondamenta Nani, Dorsoduro 992 (Ponte S. Trovaso, across from the church). M-Sa 08:30-20:30, closed Sunday. Inventive and delicious cicchetti; pile a plate with what you like, and the staff will pour you a glass of wine to match the selection. If it's too crowded inside, step out and find a space by the canal. A large and carefully curated selection of wines and spirits for purchase by the bottle. Joseph Brodsky, the American Nobel Prize winning poet and essayist, buried on San Michele, was a regular anytime he came to Venice. Cichetti €2-3, wine by the glass €3. (updated Apr 2024) == Sleep == === Budget === === Mid range === 1 Ca' Della Corte (B&B + apartments), Corte Surian, Dorsoduro 3560 (300 m SE of Piazzale Roma), ☏ +39 041-715877, fax: +39 041-722345, info@cadellacorte.com. A comfortable B&B in a quiet area. Warm and personal welcome. Breakfast (served in the room) could be improved (by going to pasticceria Tonolo and bringing your own cakes, e.g.). Junior suite €140. 2 Ca' Zose, Dorsoduro 193/B (Calle del Bastion) (walk west from Salute vaporetto stop), ☏ +39 0415226635, fax: +39 0415226624, info@hotelcazose.com. A quiet street off S.M. Salute, by the S.M. Giglio traghetto (when it's operational, 50 cents will get you to S. Marco), within easy walk of either Accademia or the Zattere (no need to brave the hordes of tourists on the #1 line, take the #52 from bus or train station). The helpful staff speaks Italian, English, French and Veneto. 10% discount on rates if paid in cash - ask Walentina, the proprietress. All rooms are named after stars (in the sky, not of movie kind), and all have A/C (indispensable in summer). Buffet breakfast included. Doubles from €90 in season. 3 Locanda Gaffaro, Dorsoduro 3589, ☏ +39 041-2750897. In a picturesque court near Piazzale Roma. Doubles from around €100. (updated Sep 2022) === Splurge === 4 Belmond Hotel Cipriani, Giudecca 10. Opened in 1958 and long considered one of the leading luxury hotels of the world. From €1,300 per night. (updated Apr 2022) == Connect ==