Seahouses

Seahouses is a small town on the Northumberland coast, with a population of 1700 in 2021. Fishing vessels work from its harbour, which is also the start point for trips to the Farne Islands. It used to be known as North Sunderland and that name still applies to the hamlet a mile inland. Bamburgh 3½ miles north is an older but smaller village huddled beneath its castle, with a population of 323 in 2021. Beadnell is an even smaller village 2 miles south. Like Bamburgh it lacks a harbour. == Get in == Beadnell, Seahouses and Bamburgh are on B1340, a coastal loop off A1. Arriva Northumbria Bus X18 runs hourly from Newcastle as far as Alnwick, where most terminate, but four per day continue up the coast to Craster, Beadnell, Seahouses, Bamburgh, Belford, Beal (for Lindisfarne), Scremerston and Berwick-upon-Tweed. Borders Bus 418 fills the gaps, running three times a day from Alnwick to Craster, Beadnell, Seahouses, Bamburgh, Belford and Wooler. Chathill appears to be a "Parliamentary railway station" - the railway operator wants to close it but cannot be bothered to fill in the paperwork. A single slow train from Newcastle visits in the evening then turns back to the city - no morning service so it's no use for commuting. Trains to and from Berwick never stop though you're permitted to double back via Alnmouth. So hardly anyone uses Chathill and its days may be numbered. But railway lines and stations elsewhere in Northumberland are expanding, so the campaign for a realistic service may be pushing at an open door. == Get around == Bus X18 / 418 connects Beadnell, Seahouses and Bamburgh every 2-3 hours. Parks Taxi is on +44 7739 802250 == See == Seahouses harbour is busy with small craft at high tide, but dries at low tide. 1 Bamburgh Castle, Bamburgh NE69 7DF, ☏ +44 1668 214208. Daily 10AM-5PM. Dramatic castle on an outcrop of dolerite, the same formation underlying the Farne islands and Hadrian's Wall on Whin Sill. This natural bastion has been fortified at least since the Iron Age, with the first written record in 547 AD. The core of the present castle was the work of the Normans in 1095: it withstood a 9-month siege during the Wars of the Roses in 1464. In the 18th century it was converted into a residence, but decay outpaced renovation until it was overhauled from 1894 by the industrialist William Armstrong (1810-1900). It's still owned by his family and has been used as a location for several films. You visit the Great Kitchen, King’s Hall, Captain’s Lodging and Keep and Armoury. They charge £5 to park but you can walk from free sites. Adult £18.75, child £9.40. (updated Mar 2025) RNLI Grace Darling Museum, Radcliffe Road, Bamburgh NE69 7AE (400 yards west of castle), ☏ +44 1668 214910. Apr-Oct: daily 10AM–5PM; Nov-Mar: Tu–F 10AM–4PM. Grace Darling (1815-42) lived in the lighthouse on Longstone island, where her father was the keeper. In the early hours of 7 Sep 1838, she spotted the steamer Forfarshire wrecked on Big Harcar rock. The sea was too rough for the mainland lifeboat to get out, so she and her father rowed for a mile and took off five survivors. She tended two of them at the lighthouse while the others rowed back and rescued four more. The lifeboat now arrived and found only bodies, but was unable to return ashore, so everyone had to shelter in the lighthouse for three days till the storm died down. Nine others survived in one of Forfarshire's boats and were picked up by a passing vessel. Grace was lionised as a national heroine, and awards and donations poured in, but she died of TB aged 26. Free. (updated Mar 2025) Saint Aidan's Church, Radcliffe Road, Bamburgh NE69 7AE (opposite museum), ☏ +44 1668 214748. Daily 10AM-6PM. St Aidan (590-652) was from Connacht and joined the monks of Iona. He came to Northumbria as a missionary in an era when Christianity was being rolled back by Anglo-Saxon paganism. He founded the monastery of Lindisfarne and many churches throughout Northumberland, with Bamburgh the seat of his diocese. He died here and is buried on Lindisfarne. His wooden church was replaced in stone in the 12th century; originally monastic, it survived the Dissolution by being the parish church. Grace Darling lies west end of the churchyard: the memorial is a replica, with the weathered original moved inside. Free. (updated Mar 2025) 2 Farne Islands are a wildlife reserve visited by boat trips in summer. == Do == Beaches are long, sandy between outcrops, and almost deserted. There's surf when the wind is nor'easterly. Some sections are almost covered at high tide but you can retreat to the sandhills and coast path. Boat trips go out to the Farne islands. Operators are Billy Shiel, Golden Gate and Serenity. Golf: courses are Bamburgh Castle and Seahouses GC, with Dunstanburgh GC further south. Northumberland Coast Path courses 62 miles from Cresswell through Seahouses to Lindisfarne and Berwick. It's to be incorporated into King Charles III England Coast Path. == Buy == Coop Food at 41 Main St Seahouses is open M-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 10AM-4PM. For a big supermarket head to Alnwick. Swallow Fish, 2 South St, Seahouses NE68 7RB, ☏ +44 1665 721052. M-F 9AM-4:30PM, Sa 9AM-1PM. Independent fishmonger for crabs, sea bass, kippers and the like. (updated Mar 2025) == Eat == Seahouses has Harbour Kitchen, Bamburgh Castle Inn (below), Olde Ship Inn, Black Swan Inn, Neptune, Lewis, Indian Brasserie, Insieme and Élan pizzeria. Olde Ship Inn, Main St, Seahouses NE68 7RD (by harbour), ☏ +44 1665 720200. Food daily 8AM – 8PM. Lively bistro in a 17th century coaching inn, has rooms. B&B double £140. (updated Mar 2025) Black Swan Inn, 2 Union St, Seahouses NE68 7RT (facing harbour), ☏ +44 1665 720227. Daily noon-11PM. Upmarket bistro and pub. (updated Mar 2025) Bamburgh has The Lord Crewe, Potted Lobster, and The Hut north by the beach. Beadnell has The Landing and Beadnell Towers (below). == Drink == Schooner Inn is at 28 North St, Seahouses, open Su-W noon-11PM, Th-Sa noon-1 AM. and see above for Olde Ship Inn and Black Swan. == Sleep == 1 Bamburgh Castle Inn, Main St, Seahouses NE68 7SQ, ☏ +44 1665 720283. It's not in Bamburgh! It's by Seahouses harbour, a pleasant spot but parking is difficult. Mixed reviews for comfort, service and dining, so it's pricey for what you get. B&B double £200. (updated Mar 2025) 2 Seafield Caravan Park, Seafield Rd, Seahouses NE68 7SP, ☏ +44 1665 720628. Extensive caravan park north side of the village, open Feb-Dec. Most of the units are lodges or static caravans for long-term lease, but they accept tourer caravans; no tents or camping. Good facilities including Ocean Club. 2-person caravan £60. (updated Mar 2025) 3 Beach House, 12A St Aidans, Seahouses NE68 7SR, ☏ +44 1665 720337. Smart, friendly hotel north side of village. Rates include access to Ocean Club. B&B double £120. (updated Mar 2025) 4 Ugiebrae House, 95 Main St, Seahouses NE68 7TS, ☏ +44 1665 720133. Clean welcoming B&B. Three nights minimum. B&B double £130. (updated Mar 2025) 5 Beadnell Bay Camping and Caravan Site, Beadnell NE67 5BX, ☏ +44 1665 720586. Simple clean site. 2-person tent £44. (updated Mar 2025) 6 Beadnell Towers, The Wynding, Beadnell NE67 5AY, ☏ +44 1665 721211. Swish hotel with good dining. B&B double £220. (updated Mar 2025) == Connect == As of March 2025, Seahouses and its nearby villages and approach roads have 4G from all UK carriers. 5G has not yet reached this area. == Go next == Lindisfarne is a tidal island with a fine castle and ruined abbey. Ford and Etal are scenic villages on the road to the Scottish border at Coldstream. Berwick-upon-Tweed has stout walls in case the Scots try to reclaim it. Alnwick to the south has a plush castle. Alnmouth nearby is a small fishing port.