Paratge Natural d'Interès Nacional de l'Albera

Albera Natural Site (Paratge Natural d'Interès Nacional de l'Albera) is in Costa Brava of Catalonia. It boasts the magnificent Monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera, a jewel of Catalan Romanesque art. This protected area serves as an ecological and scenic haven, showcasing the unique transition from Pyrenean to Mediterranean species. == Understand == The Paratge Natural d'Interès Nacional de l'Albera, situated in the northeastern Alt Empordà region, is a nature reserve encompassing the Albera mountain range. It is divided into Requesens-Baussitges and Sant Quirze de Colera-Balmeta sectors. The Albera range, acting as the Franco-Spanish border, features prominent peaks like Puig Neulós and Puig dels Pastors, creating a diverse and captivating landscape dominated by Pyrenean metamorphic rocks. 1 Main Tourist Office (Centre d'Informació i Oficina), Rectoria Vella c. Amadeu Sudrià, 3 - 17753 Espolla, ☏ +34 972 545 079, pninalbera@gencat.cat. (updated Nov 2023) 2 Tourist office (Centre d'Informació i Exposició permanent), Can Laporta c. Major, 2 - 17700 La Jonquera, ☏ +34 972 555 258. (updated Nov 2023) === History === The Albera Range, marked by the Pyrenees' lowest passes, serves as a historical crossroads between European and Iberian cultures. Notably, its southern slopes house Catalonia's significant megalithic monuments, spanning the Middle Neolithic to the Chalcolithic era (3500-1800 BCE). Prominent dolmens like Canadal, Mas Baleta, and the Cabana d'Arqueta, as well as the Castellar menhir, showcase a rich archaeological tapestry. Panissars and Pertús passes, critical ancient routes within Jonquera, reveal the region's strategic importance over time. The Santa Maria de Panissars monastery ruins, on the French border, attest to its medieval role as a wayfarer's hospital, with recent excavations uncovering Roman road remnants and possible trophies of Pompey from the Via Domitia - Via Augusta (1st century BCE). The Albera region boasts a robust Romanesque heritage from the medieval period, notably represented by the Sant Quirze de Colera Benedictine monastery. Documented since the 10th century, this site features a remarkable basilica, cloister remains, monastic structures, and fortifications. Other architectural gems include the ancient parishes of Sant Martí de Baussitges and Sant Genís d'Esprac, alongside the pre-Romanesque Sant Pere del Pla de l'Arca in Jonquera. The Espolla municipality showcases the beautiful Espolla Castle and the residence of the Marquises of Camps. Rabós features numerous dolmens, complementing its historical and architectural significance. This diverse cultural and historical landscape makes the Albera Range a compelling destination, weaving a narrative of human settlement, cultural exchange, and architectural evolution across millennia. === Landscape === The western sector, primarily composed of two large estates, Requesens and Baussitges, features the wettest and elevated areas with almost 100% forest coverage. The vegetation is remarkably diverse, ranging from lowlands to highlands, encompassing holm oaks, cork oaks, chestnut groves, oak forests, mixed deciduous forests (elder, whitebeam, elm, holly, etc.), and meadows at the summit. Riparian vegetation along the banks of the Anyet and Orlina rivers includes ash, willow, and alder. The eastern sector, Sant Quirze de Colera-Balmeta, has more Mediterranean characteristics, with shrublands, thickets, and holm oaks in lower areas and evergreen oaks in higher regions. The third sector is the foothills of the Albera, known as the Aspres de l'Albera, representing the intermediate zone between the actual mountain range and the Empordà plain. This area features a mosaic of dryland crops, primarily vineyards and olive groves, interspersed with natural vegetation like shrublands and holm oaks. === Flora and fauna === Vegetation The Requesens-Baussitges sector features the wettest and elevated areas, with almost 100% forest coverage and remarkably diverse vegetation, including holm oaks, cork oaks, chestnut groves, oak forests, beech forests, and alpine meadows at the summit. The Requesens area encompasses the headwaters of the Anyet River with splendid riparian vegetation, including ash, willow, and alder. The Baussitges area includes the high valley of the Orlina River, where populations of easternmost beech trees on the peninsula persist. The Sant Quirze de Colera-Balmeta sector represents a fully Mediterranean zone, historically impacted by forest fires. The vegetation is dominated by evergreen oaks, shrublands, and thickets. Fauna In this area, the last populations of the Mediterranean turtle on the Iberian Peninsula persist. There is a notable variety of other herpetological species (amphibians and reptiles): frogs, snakes, lizards, and more. Over 200 bird species have been identified. Among fish, the common trout and mountain barbel are noteworthy. The diversity of mammals in the Natural Area and its surrounding area is significant, with 44 species recorded, representing nearly 75% of Catalonia's total mammal species. The Albera cow is an indigenous, semi-wild breed endemic to the area. === Climate === The Paratge Natural d'Interès Nacional de l'Albera, spanning 4,207 hectares in Alt Empordà along the French border, transitions from wet, eurosiberian highlands to dry Mediterranean lowlands, fostering diverse ecosystems. Western sectors like Requesens-Baussitges, at 250-1,000m, receive higher rainfall supporting beech (easternmost Iberian stands), oaks, chestnuts, and riparian willows along Anyet and Orlina rivers. Eastern Sant Quirze de Colera-Balmeta endures classic Mediterranean conditions: summer highs to 35°C, winter lows to -5°C, and fierce tramuntana winds gusting 120 km/h, drying soils and favoring cork oaks, shrubs, and thickets post-fires. Humidity varies with elevation; small basses ponds sustain amphibians seasonally. Strong northwesterlies shape cloud formations and erosion on Paleozoic schists, while microclimates enable rare Atlantic-like groves amid vineyards. Year-round appeal draws hikers, though extremes demand preparation == Get in == The protected area lies between the AP-7 the N-260 and the French border. === By plane === The nearest airports are Girona-Costa Brava (GRO IATA, in Spain) and Perpignan–Rivesaltes (PGF IATA, In France) === By railway === Figueres has a high-speed train station, connected to Madrid and Barcelona and also to France High speed trains Llançà, Colera i Port Bou has a local train station. === By car === From France: The A-9 ( E-15 ) from Montpellier and Perpignan to the Spanish border. Then the AP-7 ( E-15 )until Figueres or La Jonquera From Barcelona and Girona: The AP-7 ( E-15 ), until Figueres or La Jonquera. From Figueres take N-260 to Port bou to access the easternmost side. From Figueres take N-260 and then the GIP-6042 to Peralada, follow GIP-6021 and GIP-6031 to Rabós to access the Sant Quirze de Colera area. From la Jonquera take GI-601 to Cantallops to access the Recasens area === By boat === There are some ports you can use if you go sailing. Port Bou Colera Llançà == Fees and permits == It's free to enter. == Get around == == See == 1 Monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera, Camí de Rabós a Vilamaniscle, s/n (The road is not paved.), ☏ +34 972 563 082, ajuntament@rabos.cat. The monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera is a Benedictine abbey in the former county of Empúries, within the boundaries of the Diocese of Girona. It is an architectural complex composed of the Basilica of Sant Quirze, various monastic buildings organized around the courtyard of the cloister, a defensive tower, and remains of a section of the wall. It also includes the church of Santa Maria and the remnants of the old hospital. The monastery is situated about five kilometers away and near the old road to the Coll de Banyuls. (updated Nov 2023) 2 Requesens Castle (Castell de Requesens). The edifice is characterized by a triple line of walls, with square and rounded towers, portals and merlons. In the lower court is the chapel, including Romanesque elements from original structures of the area, or of French inspiration. Probably existing since the 9th century, the castle is mentioned for the first time in a document from Ponce I, count of Ampurias in the 11th century.In the 19th century, the ruined castle was rebuilt in a neo-medieval style. The castle was extensively used after the Spanish Civil War (1936–1939), when some modern constructions were added to the original structure. (updated Nov 2023) 3 Rocabertí castle (Castell de Rocabertí). It is located in the municipality of La Jonquera (Alt Empordà), about 3 km northeast of the town. Perched on a steep, conical granite cliff, it is easily visible from the village at its feet. Only the ruins remain. It is first mentioned in 948, but evidence suggests that it is much older. The strategic position of the fortress, dominating the passes of Portús and Panissars, always made it the target of various interests. (updated Nov 2023) 4 Santa Fe dels Solers Hermitage. It is a pre-Romanesque hermitage located near Mas dels Solers, in the municipal district of Sant Climent Sescebes, Alt Empordà. It is a Romanesque construction with a single nave and a square floor, featuring a trapezoidal apse. The walls are made of stone and mortar, with some sections showing opus spicatum, suggesting that it is a fairly old construction that has been renovated over time. There is no worship, and it is open to the public. (updated Nov 2023) 5 Sant Quirc i Santa Julita. The church was constructed in the late 18th century (1785) and was financed by Josep de Nouvilas and his son Pere. Its dimensions are quite large in relation to the local population it serves. This is attributed to Nouvilas' intention to establish a new village, Sant Quirc de Colera (not to be confused with the Monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera), around the church and Mas Nouvilas. Similar to the founding of Colera in the late century, it was established in connection with the parish of Sant Miquel de Colera. (updated Nov 2023) 6 Sant Miquel de Colera Church. It was the former parish church of the village of Colera in Alt Empordà until it was relocated next to the sea in the 18th century. It is about 7 km to the west of the urban center of Colera via a forest track accessed upon reaching Colera from the Figueres to Portbou road. Definite records of the temple date back to the 11th century. (updated Nov 2023) 7 Sant Silvestre de Valleta. The church is a Romanesque building from the 11th century. From the 11th century until the 17th century, it served as the parish church for the hamlet of Valleta. After centuries of abandonment, popular pressure in the late 20th century led to the reopening of the church for worship, the restoration of its surroundings, the promotion of historical research, and the organization of a gathering that has been held continuously since May 1980. (updated Nov 2023) 8 Castell de Molinàs (about 4 km to the west of the urban centre of Colera, in the Molinàs valley; access is gained through the same forest track that leads to the church of Sant Miquel de Colera.). These are the ruined remains of the castle tower of Molinàs. You can see a rectangular-shaped enclosure, of which two building structures are preserved. (updated Nov 2023) === Megalithic places === 3 Dolmen de la Font del Ginebró. 4 Dolmen del Pic de l'Àliga I. 5 Dolmen del Pic de l'Àliga II. 6 Dolmen del Passatge. 7 Dolmen de Puig d'Esquers. 8 Dolmen del Mas Patiràs. 9 Dolmen del Puig Tifell. 10 Dolmen de Dofines. 11 Menhir del Mas Roquer. 12 Dolmen Coma d'en Felis. 13 Dolmen del Solà d'en Gibert. 14 Dolmen de Comes Llobes dels Pils. 15 Dolmen del Mas Gamarús. 16 Dolmen de la Font del Roure. 17 Dolmen d'Arreganyats. 18 Dolmen dels Cantons. 19 Dolmen de les Morelles. 20 Menhir del Castellà. 21 Dolmen del Salt d'en Peió. 22 Dolmen de Fontanilles. 23 Dolmen del Coll de Medàs I. 24 Dolmen del Coll de Medàs II. 25 Dolmen del Coll de Medàs III. == Do == Hikinkg: GR 11 (Pyrenees Trail) goes from Higuer Cape in Hondarribia to Cap de Creus in Cap de Creus Natural Park === Local Hikes === Requesens area I1 - From Cantallops to Requesens, 6 km, 2 hr, medium difficulty. I2 - Around Requesens Castle, 5.5 km, 2 hr, medium difficulty. I3 - Faig de la Pedra 9 km, 3 hr, difficult I4 - Requesens forests, 11.5 km, 5 hr, difficult I5 - Estanys de la Jonquera, 3.5 km, 1 hr, easy Sant Quirze de Colera area (see Rabós ) Route 1: Espolla - Sant Quirze de Colera. 2 hr 20 min Route 2: Rabós - Sant Quiric - Sant Quirze de Colera. 2 hr 45 min Route 3: Vilamaniscle - Sant Quirze de Colera. 1:45 min Route 4: Sant Quirze de Colera - Requesens 6 hr 10 min Route 5: Sant Quirze de Colera, springs, mountainpasses and peaks 3 hr 10 min Route 6: Old farms in Sant Quirze de Colera == Buy == == Eat == Visit the nearby villages like Le Perthus (France) La Jonquera Cantallops Espolla Rabós Peralada Llançà Colera Portbou == Drink == == Sleep == === Mountain refuge === 1 Refugi del Coll de Banyuls. (updated Nov 2023) 2 Refugi de la Tanyareda. (updated Nov 2023) 3 Refugi del Forn de Calç. (updated Nov 2023) == Stay safe == == Go next ==