Ávila

Ávila is a city in Castile and León in northern Spain, 120 km northwest of Madrid. Its old town is spectacularly ringed by ancient walls, and has been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. In 2023 the population was 58,500. == Understand == Ávila sits on the fertile Meseta Central plateau at an altitude of over 1100 m. It's near-freezing in winter and cool in summer, especially at the top end of town near the cathedral, catching the night breeze. The Romans built the first known citadel here, and it was a stronghold of the Visigoths, but not strong enough to resist the Moors in the 710s. It was recaptured in 1088 and its present set of walls were built. Its cultural re-capture was as important as territory, and a crop of Romanesque churches blossomed. Ávila also attracted a large Jewish community, but all were expelled from Spain in 1492. The city was prosperous during Spain's golden 16th century but declined from the 17th. It never had much industry or population influx so its old centre has been preserved. Ávila Tourism is at Av de Madrid 39 next to San Vicente, open daily 08:00-21:00. Ayuntamiento de Ávila post city services online. == Get in == By plane: Madrid Barajas Airport (MAD IATA) is 100 km south, with extensive connections domestically, across Europe, and to the Gulf States and Americas. Salamanca airport is 50 km west of Ávila but has few flights. 1 Ávila railway station has trains every hour or two from Madrid Principio Pio, taking 90 min via El Escorial. They continue to Salamanca, or to Valladolid then fan out to Palencia, Léon, Burgos, Vitoria-Gasteiz, San Sebastian and Irun on the French border. Another three trains a day are from Madrid Atocha Cercanías and Chamartin, taking two hours. There is little facilities at the railway station, not even a luggage storage office or lockers. Ávila bus station is 200 m north of the railway station, 1 km east of city centre. Jimenez Dorado buses from Madrid Estación Sur run every couple of hours, taking 80 mins; two per day are from the airport. Avanza buses run from Salamanca (90 min) and Segovia (one hour). There are coin lockers for luggage storage at the bus station. By road from Madrid follow A6 north then AP51. From Segovia (70 km) follow N110 west to join AP51. From Salamanca (100 km) follow A50 south. == Get around == Walking is usually best, avoid driving within the walled old town. A tourist tram also lumbers round the main sights. Avanza run the local buses, with 9 routes. Radio Taxi Ávila is on +34 920 353545. == See == Muralla de Avila (Walls of Avila). Tu-Su April-Oct 10:00-20:00, Nov-Mar 10:00-18:00. Remarkably complete, these were built between the 11th and 14th centuries and form a 2.5-km loop around the old town. You can of course see them free from the encircling road: anytime, but they're dramatic when floodlit at night. Note the blocks where Roman masonry has been recycled into the structure. There are two sections where you can walk on top of the wall, both covered by the same ticket. The E/NE section of 1440 m can be entered at three points: Casa de las Carnicerias on Calle San Segundo, Puente Adaja on Calle Marqués de Santo Domingo, and Arco del Carmen on Plaza Concepción Arenal by the Parador. The SE section of 260 m is entered at Puerta del Alcázar on Plaza Adolfo Suárez. Adult €8, conc or child €5. (updated Dec 2024) 1 Cathedral (Catedral de Cristo Salvador), ☏ +34 678 952984. M-Sa 10:00-18:00, Su 12:30-18:00. Built mostly in the 11th and 12th centuries in Romanesque and Gothic styles, and embedded in the eastern flank of the city walls. The exterior is an austere grey affair, but the Romanesque parts of the interior are a striking "blood limestone". It's an extra €3 to ascend the tower, tours at midday. Adult €8, conc or child €7. (updated Dec 2024) Palacio Polentinos, Vallespín 19 (100 m north of Convento de Santa Teresa), ☏ +34 920 352521. M-F 10:00-14:00, Sa Su 10:30-14:30, 16:00-19:00. An oddity, a museum of Spanish army logistics in a Renaissance palace. Signage is only in Spanish. Free. (updated Dec 2024) 2 Museo de Ávila, Plaza Nalvillos 3, ☏ +34 920 211003. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00, 16:00-19:00, Su 10:00-14:00. Museum with Roman artefacts from the area, including a large mosaic. It's housed in the Palacio de los Deanes and in Iglesia de Santo Tome El Viejo, a 13th-century church. Free. (updated Dec 2024) 3 Basílica de San Vicente, ☏ +34 920 255230. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00, 16:00-19:00, Su 16:00-19:00. Dedicated to Saints Vicente, Sabina and Cristeta, this was built 12th-14th century. Adult €3. (updated Dec 2024) 4 Iglesia de San Pedro is early 12th century, Romanesque with a fine rose window. It's just outside the city walls at Plaza del Mercado Grande, free to visit daily 11:00-12:00, 19:00-20:00. 5 Convento de Santa Teresa, Plaza la Santa 2. M-Sa 07:00-13:00, 15:30-19:30, Su 09:30-11:00. Convent and shrine built over the birthplace of St Teresa (1515-1582), who founded the Carmelitas Descalzadas, the "Barefoot Carmelites". Free. (updated Dec 2024) Ermita de San Segundo is a small 12th century hermitage and church, just west of the walls off Av Madrid. It's seldom open. Convento de San José is the convent founded by St Teresa in 1562, at Las Madres 2, 200 m east of San Pedro. The church (its best feature) was added in 1607. They're a closed order so you can seldom visit. 6 Real Monasterio de Santo Tomas, Plaza Granada 1 (1 km SE of centre, take Bus 2 or Tourist Train), ☏ +34 920 352237. Sep-Jun daily 10:30-14:00, 15:30-19:30, July Aug daily 10:30-21:00. Mostly 15th-century Dominican Convent, grouped around 3 cloisters. There are two small museums (same ticket): the oriental art museum also displays the Order's mission in China. The natural science museum is a dilapidated collection of dead beasts. Adult €4, child €3. (updated Dec 2024) == Do == Lienzo Norte is the main congress and performance centre, at Av de Madrid northwest corner of the walls. Golf: Naturávila Golf El Fresnillo is 6 km southwest on Antigua de Cebreros. Horse riding including lessons is based at Centro Hipico Naturávila opposite the golf course. Football: Real Ávila CF plays soccer in Segunda Federación, the fourth tier. Their Estadio Adolfo Suárez (capacity 6000) is 1.5 km south of town centre. == Buy == Several supermarkets: Lupa are the most central, with stores at Paseo de la Estación 8 and Dr Jesús Galán 57, both open daily. == Eat == Usual meaty Castilian fare, the signature dish being the beef-steak Chuletón de Ávila. Yemas de Ávila (or Yemas de Santa Teresa) are a glootchy sweet made from egg yolks. Most eating places are along Calle de San Segundo on the walls' east flank, and through the old town lanes into Plaza del Mercado Chico. You may struggle to find anything for dinner before 20:30 except tapas. But try El Portalon in Mercado Chico, or Gran Muralla Chinese Restaurant on C de San Segundo. == Drink == Not many bars in old town, head east towards the railway station. These include Mojito, Rosa Negra, Divino, Barraca, La Roca, Babel, Bar La Rua, Cayo, El Cruce, La Oca and La Taberna del Viajero. Ávila is close to the DOP wine regions of Castile and León. == Sleep == 1 Las Leyendas, Francisco Gallego 3, ☏ +34 920 352042. Friendly inexpensive hotel, great location by city walls. B&B double €80. (updated Dec 2024) Las Cancelas, Cruz Vieja 6 (50 m south of cathedral), ☏ +34 920 212249. Simple central hotel with good restaurant. B&B double €90. (updated Dec 2024) Antika Snoga, Reyes Católicos 22 (50 m west of cathedral), ☏ +34 920 2186. Great reviews for this inexpensive little place in Old Town. B&B double €60. (updated Dec 2024) 2 Hotel El Rastro, Plaza Corral de las Campanas, ☏ +34 920 352225. Comfy hotel in rustic style in a 16th century duke's palace. B&B double €80. (updated Dec 2024) Palacio de Monjaraz Hotel, Bracamonte 6 (100 m east of Parador), ☏ +34 920 332070. Charming small hotel, no wifi. B&B double €60. (updated Dec 2024) 3 Parador de Ávila, Marques de Canales y Chozas 2, ☏ +34 920 211340. Atmospheric parador in 16th-century palace within the city walls. Limited guest parking. B&B double €100. (updated Dec 2024) == Connect == As of Dec 2024, Ávila and its approach roads have 5G from all Spanish carriers. == Go next == With your own car, visit the mountains of Gredos 50 km southwest, for hiking and wildlife. Historic villages here include Hoyos del Espino, Piedrahita, Barco de Ávila and Arevalo. You can also use the hill road south N403 to reach Toledo. By public transport, the easy options are Salamanca, Segovia and El Escorial. All routes converge on Madrid, which needs several days to explore.