Santander

Santander is the capital and largest city of the province of Cantabria on the north coast of Spain, with a population of 175,000 in 2025. Its beaches draw Spanish visitors; most international visitors are just passing through via the ferry port, but its churches and museums are worth a longer stay. == Understand == The settlement grew up on the north bank of the Bay of Santander, with a good harbour sheltered by Magdalena headland from the worst of the Atlantic weather. It was never named for Saint Andrew: its Roman name of Portus Victoriae Iuliobrigensium metamorphosed by processes as convoluted as those that threw up the Cantabrian mountains behind. It was first chartered as a city in 1137, when it was two walled towns separated by the Becedo creek. The creek dried up by the 17th century and the towns grew together. Santander acted as the port for Castile and traded with the Americas. From the 1840s El Sardinero beach was developed into an upmarket resort to rival Biarritz, attracting royalty with their buckets and spades. The old town was damaged in 1893 when a ship carrying dynamite exploded at the pier, but its destruction came in Feb 1941, when a great fire raged for two days. This wrecked the Town Hall, cathedral and many other central buildings, leaving thousands homeless. Rebuilding was on modern lines with broad boulevards. Santander never had the heavy smokestack industry seen in Bilbao or Gijón, but remained a busy port with services around education, government and healthcare. The city’s best-known industry is Banco Santander, nowadays a vast multi-national finance company. 1 Oficina de Turismo Municipal, Jardines de Pereda, ☏ +34 942 203000. M 09:00-16:00, Tu-F 09:00-19:00, Sa Su 10:00-14:00. Friendly helpful place. (updated Apr 2026) Turismo de Cantabria is the regional tourist office, based in the ferry terminal. The city has a mild rainy climate typical of the Spanish north coast. Come in the height of summer when the Med is overcrowded and sweltering. == Get in == === By plane === 1 Seve Ballesteros–Santander Airport (SDR IATA) (Camargo, 5 km east of downtown), ☏ +34 913 211000. Ryanair fly here from various places in west Europe, Britain and Ireland. Iberia fly from Madrid and Vueling fly from Barcelona. It's a single small terminal, adequate for the number of flights, with the usual facilities groundside and airside. For non-Schengen departures, don't go through passport control until 45 min before your flight: Gates 6 & 7 beyond have no toilets or other facilities. (updated Apr 2026) The Alsa bus runs to the bus station every 30 min (06:30-23:00) from outside Arrivals, taking 10 min. Buy tickets from the machine in Arrivals (which also sells tickets to other cities) or from the driver. Taxis from the airport to Santander are available in front of the terminal and accept credit cards. The airport is linked to motorway A-8 east to Bilbao and west into Asturias. === By bus === 2 Estaciónes are the trio of bus, mainline railway and cercanías railway stations, adjacent in city centre. The bus station has the most facilities. Local buses drop off and pick up on the surrounding plaza, including the airport bus south flank of the terminal building. Most is underground, with cafés, ticket offices & machines and left-luggage. Long-distance buses run from the lower basement. Alsa buses run to Santander from Madrid every two hours, taking 5 hr 30 min. Some start from Madrid Airport T4. From Barcelona is 10 hours via Zaragoza. From Gijón is 4 hours via Oviedo. From Bilbao they run hourly taking 90 min. Flixbus runs daily from Paris, taking 13 hours via Bordeaux, San Sebastian and Bilbao. === By train === Renfe trains run 5 times a day from Madrid Chamartín, taking 4-5 hours via Segovia, Valladolid, Palencia and Reinosa. One train a day starts from Alicante. There are also regional trains (slow but cheap) from Oviedo, Palencia and Bilbao (with 2, 3, 2 trains a day that take 5, 3, 3 hours, respectively). Cercanías suburban train C1 runs from Reinosa via Torrelavega every 1-2 hours. C2 runs every 30 minutes from Cabezón de la Sal via Torrelavega. Train C3 runs hourly from Liérganes. === By boat === Britanny Ferries sail to Santander across the Bay of Biscay, notorious for its Atlantic swells. From Plymouth (21 hours) sailing Mar-Oct 2 or 3 times a week. From Portsmouth (24 hours) twice a week year round. They also sail to Bilbao. 3 Santander ferry terminal is central, off Calle Antonio Lopez near the bus and railway stations. === By road === From Madrid follow E5 north past Burgos, 400 km. A-8 is the coastal motorway from the French border past Bilbao; from Biarritz or Bayonne is 250 km. == Get around == The city sprawls, but the places of interest are within a compact centre best explored on foot. From Town Hall and the cathedral out to Magdalena headland or Sardinero beach is 4 km. TUS Santander run 24 city bus lines. In 2026 a single ticket costs €1.30, pay on boarding, no transfers. A rechargeable contactless card costs €1 plus a minimum loading of €6, then it’s €0.66 per journey. So you benefit from the sixth journey, and the card allows free transfers within one hour, but it’s not valid for the airport bus. Buy cards at kiosks near the main bus stops, the TUS website details these and a dozen other ticket deals such as junior fares. City Sightseeing Hop On Hop Off Bus runs around the city hourly, starting from the cathedral with stops at Pasea Pereda, Museo Maritimo, Palacio de Festivales y Planetario, Palacio de la Magdalena, Playa de Sardinero, Faro de Cabo Mayor, Matalenas, Universidad, Avenida Valdecilla, Cuatro Caminos and Barrio Pesquero. The complete circuit takes 75 min. A ticket valid for 24 hours in 2026 costs €23 per adult, €15 per child (5 to 15), children under 5 ride free. The section out to Palacio de la Magdalena is in a little red road-train (or you could buy a €4.40 ticket just for this part). The ticket also gives free admission to Centro Botín contemporary art gallery. There are taxi ranks at the bus & railway stations and elsewhere. A dozen operators ply in town. TUeBici the city bike-share scheme is broken. == See == A total solar eclipse on Wednesday 12 Aug 2026, starting at 20:27 and lasting 75 sec. The chances of a clear sky are only 45%, and you need to find a spot with a clear view to the northwest horizon, where the sun will be setting. Further west the duration of totality is longer: San Vicente de la Barquera gets 90 sec. === City centre === 1 Cathedral (Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción de Santander), Plaza del Obispo José Eguino y Trecu, ☏ +34 942 748115. M-Sa 10:00-13:00, 16:00-19:30, Su 10:00-13:00, 17:00-21:00. Two-level Gothic church: the lower level (Iglesia del Cristo) was built from the 12th century, the upper Basilica mostly in the 13th, then the cloister was added. Don't visit during Mass, usually M-F 11:00 & 18:30; Sa 11:00, 17:00 & 20:00; and Su 12:00, 13:30, 17:00 & 20:00. Adult €2, child or conc €1. (updated Apr 2026) Plaza Porticada is an imposing neoclassical square completed in 1950 to be the new city centre after the fire of 1941. It's a block north of the cathedral. Paseo de Pereda is the broad boulevard coursing east from the cathedral onto the seafront to Puerto Chico the old harbour, where it becomes Calle Castelar. Iglesia de la Anunciación is 200 m north of the cathedral at Juan de Herrera 17. It was completed in 1607 in Renaissance style. It's open daily 09:00-13:00, 18:30-21:00. Iglesia de la Consolación is 100 m north of the railway station at Alta 19. It was completed in 1774 in Baroque style: its benefactor Pedro Corbán de la Vega had aimed for a new cathedral, which even his indiano fortune couldn't stretch to, so he had to be content with building this church over a medieval cemetery. It's open M-Sa 10:00-13:30, 18:00-20:00, Su 10:00-13:30. 2 Town Hall (Ayuntamiento) on the main plaza was built in 1907, then doubled in size in the 1960s. General Franco was removed from the square outside Town Hall in 2008. So too was his horse, though it hadn't offended anyone. Iglesia de San Francisco at Los Escalantes 9 was built 1940-1953 in eclectic style. It's open M-F 09:00-13:00, 18:00-19:45, Sa Su 09:00-13:00. Parlamento de Cantabria is the regional assembly, at Alta 31 a block north of the railway station. It's in the former San Rafael Hospital, founded in 1791. No admittance except on business. 3 Museum of Modern & Contemporary Art, Rubio 6, ☏ +34 942 203120. Tu-Sa 10:00-13:00, 17:30-21:00, Su 11:00-13:30. Remarkable collection of paintings and sculpture from the 19th to 20th centuries, from Italian, Flemish and Spanish schools and a painting of King Fernando VII by Goya. Free. (updated Apr 2026) Biblioteca Menéndez Pelayo is the personal library of Marcelino Menéndez y Pelayo (1856-1912) the scholar and literary critic. It’s in a splendid old building at Rubio 6 next to Museum of Modern & Contemporary Art. It’s closed for refurbishment: the public library here remains open but is modern and nothing special. Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón at San Jose 15 is an impressive Neogothic building. Only open for mass. 4 Museum of Prehistory and Archaeology of Cantabria, Bailén, ☏ +34 942 209922. Tu-Su 10:00-14:00, 17:00-19:30. An impressive museum, ranging from the Paleolithic through Roman to medieval periods. Signage includes English. Adult €6, child €3. (updated Apr 2026) 5 Plaza Pombo is a charming little square along Hernán Cortés, with an old bandstand. Iglesia de Santa Lucía at Daoiz y Velarde 11 was built in eclectic style from 1843 to 1868. After the Great Fire it served as temporary cathedral until 1953. It's only open for mass. 6 Centro Botín, Plaza Emilio Botín, ☏ +34 942 047147. Tu-F 10:00-14:00, 16:00-20:00, Sa Su 10:00-20:00. Contemporary art exhibitions. (updated Apr 2026) Bank of Santander is the grandiose portal of finance opposite Pereda Gardens. The bank was founded in 1857 and grew by acquisitions in the 20th and 21st centuries into a huge financial combine. These remain its legal headquarters but the operational nerve-centre is nowadays in Boadilla del Monte in the west suburbs of Madrid. Pereda Gardens are the bosky park east of the cathedral. There’s a monument to the writer José María de Pereda (1833-1906) and a fountain dedicated to the Cantabrian author Concha Espina (1877-1953). The boulevard Paseo de Pereda or Paseo Maritimo courses east to the marina. Puertochico is the marina and its neighbourhood. You can walk out on the breakwater. === Coast === Dique de Gamazo is a dry dock built in 1908 on reclaimed land east of Puertochico. 7 Naves de Gamazo, Av de Severiano Ballesteros 3, ☏ +34 942 502013. Tu-Sa 11:00-14:00, 16:00-20:00, Su 11:00-15:00. Contemporary art centre in former industrial warehouses, with permanent & temporary exhibitions. It's owned by Fundación Enaire, a branch of the Ministry of Transport, with aeronautics a major theme. Free. (updated Apr 2026) 8 Maritime Museum of Cantabria, Av Severiano Ballesteros, ☏ +34 942 274962. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. Maritime heritage, natural history and an aquarium. Adult €10, child €7. (updated Apr 2026) 9 La Magdalena is a headland 3 km east of the centre. It has a wooded parkland with beaches, a small zoo, a lighthouse and some kitsch replica ships. Its focus is the Palacio, summer residence of the Spanish King 1913-1930 and now an upmarket hotel and convention centre. Parque del Doctor González Mesones is a green space by Segunda Playa, the northern strip of Sardinero beach, see below. The statue is of the poet José Luis Hidalgo. Faro Cabo Mayor Art Centre, Av del Faro, ☏ +34 942 203648. Su, Tu-Th 11:00-14:00, F Sa 11:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00. Art gallery at the base of a lighthouse, featuring the works Eduardo Sanz mainly of lighthouses and a strange collection of lighthouse images from popular culture on everything from matchboxes to liquor bottles. Free. (updated Apr 2026) Puente del Diablo (Devil's Bridge) was a rock formation on the cliffs west of the cape, but it collapsed. 10 Panteón del Inglés is a little chapel on the cliffs built in 1892 in memory of William Rowland, who fell from his horse. It’s quite a long way down from here. === Further out === 11 Ethnography Museum (Casa Velarde), Heroes dos de Mayo 18, Muriedas (8 km south of city), ☏ +34 942 251347. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00, 16:00-19:00, Su 11:00-15:00. 17th-century building, birthplace of artillery captain Pedro Velarde y Santillan, with antiquities and period furnishings, kitchen utensils, paintings. Visit by guided tour starting on the hour. Free. (updated Apr 2026) == Do == Boat trips: Los Reginas and North Soul potter round the bay. Both are based on Paseo Maritimo near the marina. Football: Racing were promoted in 2026 and now play soccer in La Liga, the top tier. Their home ground Campos de Sport de El Sardinero (capacity 22,200) is 2 km east of town centre near the beach. Fundación Caja Cantabria, Tantín 25, ☏ +34 942 204300. This hosts theatre, pop and jazz concerts, conferences, art exhibitions and workshops. (updated Apr 2026) Centro Cultural Doctor Madrazo, Casimiro Sainz (corner with Sol and Tetuán), ☏ +34 942 203100. This hosts art exhibits, film and lectures. (updated Apr 2026) Colección del Ateneo is a cultural centre within the former Mercado del Este at Gómez Oreña 5. Palacio de Festivales de Cantabria, Gamazo, ☏ +34 942 361606. Huge modern venue for classical music and ballet. (updated Apr 2026) Golf: courses are Federación Cántabra de Golf on Cabo Mayor, Abra del Pas to the west, and Real Golf De Pedreña and Pretium east across the bay. === Beaches === This is the Atlantic not the Med, so the sea is clean but cold - you'll want a wet-suit for wind-surfing. It can be exposed and with nor'westerly weather it's too rough for bathing. And it's tidal, so much of the beaches are covered at high tide. 1 Playa de la Magdalena is the closest, 3 km east of downtown in the sheltered estuary. Its west end is called Playa Los Peligros and its east end is Playa de los Bikinis, but the ratio of perils to bikinis is much the same throughout. Isla de la Torre is the rocky islet sheltering Playa de los Bikinis. The namesake defensive tower has gone and it now has a striking modern building, a sailing school. La Magdalena is the rocky headland described above, dividing the estuary from the main beach strip. Playa del Camello is a 200 m strip of sand on the north neck of Magdalena peninsula. A rock at its east end is supposed to resemble a camel, and a gamine statue of Neptune poses on the outcrop at its west end. 2 Piquío Gardens is the little promontory a third of the way along Playa del Sardinero, the city's principal beach. It's a 1.3 km sweep of sand, with a promenade lined with hotels and restaurants. The stretch south of Piquío Gardens is also known as "first beach", with "second beach" to the north. It's the busiest of the beaches but Sardineros doesn't refer to tightly-packed sun-loungers, but to the sardine boats that used to draw up and sell their catch here. Playa de Los Molinucos 500 m north of Sardineros is small and sheltered from prevaling winds. 3 Playa de Mataleñas is a secluded little beach 1 km north of Sardineros. It's much less busy, because of the extra distance from town and the steep steps to access. Cabo Mayor is the rugged headland further north, described above. North coast is rocky but dotted with small sandy coves. This strip ends to the west at the longest beach and sand dunes at Liencres. 4 Somo is a village across the estuary from Santander with a 3 km sweep of beach ending in a promontory of sand dunes. The river ferry no longer crosses so you have to drive around or take the bus. === Events === Fiestas Virgen del Mar (Lady of the Sea festival): May 19 Los Baños de Ola: July 16 until 20 Fiestas de Santiago (St James's Festival): July 25 Mercado medieval (medieval market): second half of August Romería del Faro (pilgrimage to the lighthouse): August 23 == Buy == Lupa is a supermarket chain with over a dozen city outlets, typically open M-Sa 09:00-21:30. Mercado de la Esperanza is a big traditional covered market just north of Town Hall, with a great selection of fresh local food. Stalls are trading M-W & Sa 08:00-14:00, Th F 08:00-14:00, 17:00-19:30. == Learn == Universidad Internacional Menéndez Pelayo offers summer courses for university students, including Spanish for foreigners. Universidad de Cantabria offers Spanish language courses of 4 to 10 weeks through the Centro de Idiomas (CIUC). CIUC also coordinates exchange students at the university. == Eat == Fish fish fish, it'll help if you like them. Shellfish include almejas (clams) and navajas (razor clams); fish include seabream, red mullet, anchovies, seabass and sardines; and squid and cuttlefish are staples. 100 Montaditos is a tapas and open-sandwich chain. Outlets are south side of the cathedral at Calderón de la Barca 19, and Plaza Brisas on Sardinero beach. Mercado del Este is nowadays a food court. It's at Hernán Cortés 4 by the Archaeology Museum, open daily 09:00-23:30. Regma is an ice-cream chain, with four outlets downtown and four more along Sardineros beach. === Budget === ==== Downtown ==== El Figón, Cardenal Cisneros 5 (block north of Modern Art Museum), ☏ +34 942 235366. M-Sa 10:00-19:30. Inexpensive trad cuisine. (updated Apr 2026) La Gloria de Carriedo, Cádiz 12 (south side of cathedral), ☏ +34 942 215081. M-Sa 08:00-23:30. Cheerful tapas bar. (updated Apr 2026) La Barruca de Calderón, Calderón de la Barca 10 (south side of bus station), ☏ +34 942 078585. M-F 07:00-23:00, Sa Su 08:00-23:00. Slick and central. (updated Apr 2026) Nuevo Rincón, C. Emilio Pino 1A (100 m north of station), ☏ +34 942 100883. Daily 07:30-23:30. Convenient place for fast food. (updated Apr 2026) 1 Bodega Fuente Dé, Peña Herbosa 5, ☏ +34 942 213058. M-Sa 12:00-16:00, 20:00-00:00. Down-home Cantabrian cooking. (updated Apr 2026) La Malinche, Hernán Cortés 41 (block south of Fuente Dé), ☏ +34 634 159112. M-Sa 13:00-16:00, 20:00-00:00. Reliable place for grills and the like. (updated Apr 2026) Parrilla Brasas, Peña Herbosa 3 (next to Fuente Dé), ☏ +34 942 361284. Th-M 13:00-16:00, 20:00-23:30, Tu 20:00-23:30. Good choice for grills. (updated Apr 2026) La Tasca, Peña Herbosa 11 (20 m east of Fuente Dé), ☏ +34 682 800949. W-M 13:00-00:00. Cheerful inexpensive pizzeria. (updated Apr 2026) A Banda Arroz, Peña Herbosa 15 (50 m east of Fuente Dé), ☏ +34 942 938877. Su M, W Th 11:00-17:00, F Sa 1:00-17:00, 20:00-00:00. Paella and other rice-based dishes. (updated Apr 2026) ==== Sardinero Beach ==== 2 Restaurante Chino Mulan, Av Antonio Maura 19, ☏ +34 942 272688. M 09:00-17:00, Tu-Su 12:30-16:00, 20:00-23:30. Decent Chinese cuisine. (updated Apr 2026) 3 Restaurante Mar de Cortés, Plaza Rubén Darío, ☏ +34 942 693534. Th 12:00–15:30, 19:30–23:00. Good Mexican cuisine. (updated Apr 2026) Snack Bar El Sardi, Plaza Rubén Darío (next to Mar de Cortés), ☏ +34 942 378675. Tu-Sa 10:00-00:00, Su 10:00-17:00. Friendly place for trad cuisine. (updated Apr 2026) 4 il Piccolino, Dr Marañón 1, ☏ +34 608 372603. Daily 09:00-00:00. Popular Italian restaurant. (updated Apr 2026) Restaurante Chino Mandarin II, Plaza Dr Fleming 7 (next to Tatami), ☏ +34 942 282214. Daily 11:00-16:30, 19:30–23:30 pm. Chinese cuisine, filling portions. (updated Apr 2026) Bar Súper Döner Kebab Asia, Av los Infantes 95. Daily 12:30-00:00. Turkish comfort food. (updated Apr 2026) === Mid-range === 5 Taj Mahal, Santa Lucía 46, ☏ +34 942 070803. Daily 12:30-16:00, 20:00-00:00. The city's only Indian restaurant, for when you want a change from tapas. (updated Apr 2026) 6 Cañadio, Gómez Oreña 15, ☏ +34 942 314149. M-Sa 12:00-00:00. Upmarket Cantabrian meals. (updated Apr 2026) 7 Tatami, Plaza Doctor Fleming 3, ☏ +34 942 760666. Daily 12:00-16:00, 20:00-00:00. Sushi, sashimi and other Japanese cuisine. (updated Apr 2026) 8 El Jardin del Paraíso, Av Reina Victoria 27, ☏ +34 717 145929. Tu-Sa 10:00-00:00; Su 11:00-16:00. Great reviews for their trad cuisine. (updated Apr 2026) 9 Gelín, Av Nueva Montaña 2, ☏ +34 942 332733. M Tu 09:00-16:00, W-F 09:00-23:00, Sa 10:30-16:00, 20:00-23:00. Traditional and rustic food. (updated Apr 2026) === Splurge === 10 Casona del Judío, Calle Repuente 20, ☏ +34 942 342736. W-Sa 13:30-15:00, 20:00-22:00, Su 13:30-15:00. Upscale edge-of-town dining. (updated Apr 2026) 11 La Bombi, Casimiro Sainz 15, ☏ +34 942 213028. M, W-Sa 13:30-16:00, 21:00-23:30, Su 13:30-16:00. Upscale wining and dining, better seating is upstairs. (updated Apr 2026) 12 La Mulata, Tetuan, ☏ +34 942 363785. Tu-Sa 13:00-17:00, 20:30-00:00, Su 13:00-17:00. Friendly upscale seafood restaurant, gets admiring reviews. (updated Apr 2026) 13 Posada del Mar, Castelar 19, ☏ +34 942 213023. Tu-Sa 13:00-15:30, 20:30-22:30. Excellent seafood restaurant. (updated Apr 2026) 14 El Serbal, Andrés del Rio, 7, ☏ +34 942 222515. Su & Tu 14:00-13:15, W-Sa 14:00-13:15, 20:30-22:00. Fine dining and wining overlooking the beach. (updated Apr 2026) 15 Restaurante del Puerto, Hernán Cortés 63, ☏ +34 942 213001. Tu-Sa 12:00-23:30, Su 12:00-16:00. Quality seafood restaurant. (updated Apr 2026) == Drink == Plaza de Cañadío has a cluster of bars. It's by Santa Lucia church in the centre of old town. Wine: Cantabria produces red and white wine, though none reaches DO quality. Its two growing regions are the coastal strip, and Liébana in the mountains to the west. == Sleep == Hotel Bahia, Cadiz 22 (by cathedral), ☏ +34 942 205000. Good business-type hotel, clean, central and efficient. B&B double €180. (updated Apr 2026) 1 Dorma Coliseum, Plaza de los Remedios 1, ☏ +34 942 318081. Clean friendly business-type downtown hotel. B&B double €170. (updated Apr 2026) 2 Hotel Las Brisas, La Braña 14, ☏ +34 689 240803. Small rooms, but clean & cosy and near the beach. B&B double €140. (updated Apr 2026) Santemar Hotel, Joaquin Costa 28 (100 m inland from Dorma), ☏ +34 942 272900. Comfy place a block back from Sardinero beach. B&B double €180. (updated Apr 2026) 3 Gran Hotel Sardinero, Plaza de Italia 1, ☏ +34 942 271100. Slick comfy hotel on Sardinero beach. B&B double €240. (updated Apr 2026) 4 Hospedaje Magallanes, Magallanes 22 Entlo, ☏ +34 942 371421. Comfy inexpensive place in city centre. Double (room only) €90. (updated Apr 2026) 5 Hotel Chiqui, Av Manuel Garcia Lago 9, ☏ +34 902 282700. Pleasant hotel at north end of beach. B&B double €140. (updated Apr 2026) 6 NH Ciudad de Santander, Paseo Menéndez Pelayo 13, ☏ +34 94 2319900. Good modern chain hotel downtown. Double (room only) €150. (updated Apr 2026) == Connect == As of April 2026, Santander and its approach roads have 5G from all Spanish carriers. == Go next == Santillana del Mar is a picturesque stone village 30 km west, with the famous cave of Altamira. San Vicente de la Barquera is a fishing village 60 km west. Laredo is a seaside village 45 km east with a preserved old quarter. Castro Urdiales is a seaside village 68 km east of Santander, with a Gothic church and lighthouse. Potes is a village 105 km west, in the Picos de Europa mountains on the border with Asturias. Valles Pasiegos - the valley of the Pas river - is rustic scenery 115 km southwest, around the villages of Toranzo, Selaya, Villacarriedo, Vega de Pas, San Roque de Riomiera and San Pedro del Romeral. Reinosa is in the mountains 73 km south. It's near Alto Campoo ski resort and the Roman city of Julióbriga.