Ilha Grande

Ilha Grande is a beautiful Brazilian island, about 150 km (93 mi) from Rio de Janeiro and 450 km (280 mi) from São Paulo. The largest settlement on the island is called Vila do Abraão. Together with Paraty, Ilha Grande forms a mixed world heritage site. == Get in == Ilha Grande must be reached by boat from Angra dos Reis or Mangaratiba. The departure times of the ferry from Mangaratiba, Conceiçao and Angra dos Reis stated on rome2rio.com are outdated (Dec 2020). There are no scheduled ferries from Conceição de Jacareí (Dec 2020). Avoid illegal vessels in Conceição. They are extremely dangerous and uncomfortable. There are no banks on the island: bring cash because many hotels, shops and restaurants do not accept credit cards. You can stop at an ATM in Angra dos Reis before hitting the island. === Ferry from Angra dos Reis === The ferry from Angra dos Reis departs every day at 15:30 and the price is R$17 (Dec 2020). The intercity bus in the morning from Rio de Janeiro to Angra dos Reis is comfortable and costs R$57 (Dec 2021). You can depart from Rio at 09:00 (Feb 2021). From São Paulo you can take a night bus at 22:00 and after 9 hours you arrive at 07:00 in Angra dos Reis (Feb 2021). Check the current departure times on the Buscaonibus app. From the Angra dos Reis intercity bus station to the port, take a taxi or a local bus for the 2 km or walk 25 min. There also Blablacar rides offered from Rio to Angra dos Reis for around R$35 (Dec 2021). === Ferry from Mangaratiba === The ferry from Mangaratiba departs early in the morning (Dec 2020). This might be the case again after the pandemic: ferries operated by Barcas SA Mangaratiba (105 minutes, starting at 08:00, returning at 17:30. Prices are much more expensive than those charged by Barcas SA, which is the government. The Barcas SA are of the government of Rio de Janeiro is much safer and their staff are top professionals. Terminal Santa Luzia is discouraged. Their prices are much higher than those of Barcas SA. Another problem is the operating company of this pier, it offers a fast boat, but at the time of shipment you can embark on an extremely slow boat. Their employees are rude and unprepared to deal with tourism. 1 Estação Abraão (Abraão Ferry Terminal), Vila do Abraão, toll-free: +55 0800 285 9796. Ferry boats to Praia do Pouso (Ilha Grande), Angra dos Reis, and Mangaratiba. Ferries run by CCR Barcas (or some of them, at least). (updated Dec 2017) == Get around == There are no roads and no private cars on the island. A good option is to use Vila do Abraão as a base and plan day trips from there. There are several hiking trails to the many beaches on the island. Some trails can be strenuous in the tropical weather, so be prepared and take plenty of fluid. Night falls early and dawn is short near the equator, so carry a flashlight if you plan to return after 18:00. Many beaches can be reached by boat and several agencies in Vila do Abraão sell packages for the numerous schooners serving the island. It is easy to find one-way trips and pick ups back to Vila do Abraão on many beaches in the evening. It is possible to walk around the outside of the island in about 4 or 5 days if you're not in too much of a hurry. It's best to start at Abraão and go in an anticlockwise direction, through Dois Rios. Note that accommodation on the back side of the island is scarce and free camping is illegal. At Parnaioca beach on the backside, arguably one of the most beautiful spots on the whole island and worth spending at least a couple of days at, you can ask for accommodation in the local houses (there are only about 8 people living there); ask for Sr. João, he'll help you out. Meals can also be purchased, but variety is very limited, so it might be a good idea to take some food. == See == Art Gallery inside of Vivenda das Bromelias Inns Aqueduct Candido Mendez Jail Ruins en Dois Rios - It´s not preserved or restored but come here and remember that the most dangerous criminals in Brazil were kept here In Parnaioca Beach (not easy to reach) there are other remainders of the slave period. The dark past of the island: jail prisoners, slaves, pirates and lepers in the Lazareto Hospital. Many people affirm that they have seen phantoms in Parnaoica or Caxadaco beaches. 1 Igreja de São Sebastião (Church of St. Sebastian), R. Alice Kury, SN, Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 21 2688-3292. Catholic church with noteworthy architectural features such as a wood-paneled ceiling & bell tower. (updated Dec 2017) 2 Tourist Pier Abraão Village (Cais Turístico da Vila do Abraão), R. da Praia. (updated Dec 2017) 3 Ecomuseu Ilha Grande, Rua Amapá s/nº - Vila Dois Rios - CEP 23.970-000, ☏ +55 24 3361-9055, +55 21 2334-0939 (Rio de Janeiro office). (updated Dec 2017) 4 Igreja da Freguesia de Santana, Praia da Freguesia de Santana - Freguesia de Santana. (updated Dec 2017) Tourist Information Centre, Pico do Papagaio Trail - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 3361-5540. (updated Dec 2017) == Do == Snorkeling Kayaking Sailing Diving at Sitio Forte Hiking in the rain forest at Papagaio Peak - A 2-3 hour hike to the peak. Marked, despite some warnings you may hear, and with a beautiful view at the top. Bring lots of water. There are thirteen other well marked trails (trilhas). It's possible to walk around the whole island. Plan at least 8 days for that trip. === Beaches === There are beautiful beaches, some considered to be among the nicest of Brazil. Adventurer Beach (Praia do Aventureiro) Bananal Cove (Enseada do Bananal). A nice quiet location. Feiticeira Beach (Praia da Feiticeira) 1 Pouso (Praia do Pouso). (updated Dec 2017) Lopes Mendes beach in Ilha Grande was once voted one of the top 10 most beautiful in the world by Vogue Magazine. The water is shallow a long way out, making for good surfing conditions. The usual boat route takes you from the main settlement to another beach on the opposite side of the island. From here, there are 20 minutes of relatively steep footpath to Lopes Mendes to get you nice and ready for a dip. Beware of strong currents a bit out. 2 Parnaioca (Praia da Parnaioca), Estr. Dois Rios - Parnaioca. (updated Dec 2017) 3 Dois Rios (Praia de Dois Rios). (updated Dec 2017) == Buy == You find locally owned supermarkets along the western part of the curved road (Rua Getúlio Vargas). There are a few souvenir shops in Vila do Abraão selling t-shirts, magnets and other stuff. In fact, there is nothing typical or special to buy in Ilha Grande. 1 Shopping Alfa, R. da Praia, 847 - Vila do Abraão. Daily 09:00-22:00. Shopping mall. (updated Dec 2017) == Eat == The seafood is generally very good and could perhaps be regarded as a specialty. Many restaurants offer casseroles with several types of seafood, served as a dish for two. Although in the higher price range for Ilha Grande, they are delicious and good value for money. The best place to go for traditional Brazilian is Frutos do Mar located on Rua da Praia. Try their Brazilian fish stew, that alone is worth the journey to Ilha Grande. Pastel de Frango at Crena Beach. There are about 30 restaurants in the island. Some are expensive but there are many cheaper options like hamburgers. Try Food for Kilo; pay about US $0.80 per 100 g for very nice food. 1 Restaurante Jorge Grego, R. da Praia, 30 - Praia do Abraão. Daily 15:00-23:00. (updated Dec 2017) 2 Cantina da Teresa, Dois Rios, ☏ +55 24 3361-9223. Daily 08:00-22:00. Cash only. (updated Dec 2017) 3 Restaurante coqueiro verde, Saco do Céu, ☏ +55 24 99991-9058. Daily 08:00-21:00. (updated Dec 2017) 4 Gruta Das Estrelas, Saco do Céu, ☏ +55 24 99826-9906. 24 hr. (updated Dec 2017) Restaurante Refúgio das Caravelas, Saco do Céu, ☏ +55 24 99991-7601. (updated Dec 2017) La Isla Restaurant, Guaxuma. (updated Dec 2017) Flutuante do Saco do Ceu, Praia do Amor, Saco do Céu. (updated Dec 2017) Restaurante Recanto da Praia, Praia de Japariz, SN Japariz, R. Ilha Grande - Guaxuma, ☏ +55 24 99905-4940. (updated Dec 2017) 5 Cantina do Pedro Pousada Padaria e Conveniencia, ☏ +55 24 97402-1060. Daily 08:00-22:00. Hostel, bakery, and convenience store. (updated Dec 2017) 6 Restaurante e Pousada Ponta da Barca, Rua da Praia, 13 - Praia Vermelha, 23900-000, ☏ +55 24 99815-3825, +55 24 99880-0707 (WhatsApp), reservas@pontadabarca.com. (updated Dec 2017) == Drink == There is no clubbing scene or electronic dance - at night it's drinking beer in the main square and dancing with live local music like bossa nova, forró, and samba. One popular bar is the Cafe Do Mar, which is on the eastern side of Villa do Abraao. Right next to the beach, they serve cold beer, mean caipirinhas and cool music, in a very chilled out atmosphere. They also have well attended BBQ nights, which offer delicious fresh fish, etc., and serve narghile (also known as sheesha). Kebab is their sister bar in the town, offering Greek-style kebabs with great juices, drinks and cocktails and the same funky atmosphere. Here there is also a little wok bar where you can see them make noodles for you. Restaurante Esquinas Bar is a good place to sit by the beach. You grab a beer, meet some people, buy some artcrafts and hear the locals play Brazilian music. If it rains, don't worry, it'll pass. 1 Bar da Neneca, Aventureiro. (updated Dec 2017) 2 Atelie Cafeteria, R. da Praia, 847 - Vila do Abraão. Daily 08:00-23:00. (updated Dec 2017) 3 Café Do Mar, R. Getúlio Vargas, 50; Vila do Abraão. M-Sa 10:00-02:00, Su 10:00-23:59. (updated Dec 2017) 4 Toca Do Morcego, Bananal. (updated Dec 2017) == Sleep == === Vila Abraao === There are plenty of accommodations in Vila Abraão, plus a couple of camping grounds. Free camping is illegal, although inspection and supervision of beaches is not very frequent. === Budget === There are a handful of hostels on the island. As you get off the boat on the pier go to the second street from the ocean and turn left. Most of the budget hostels are on this street, such as Resta 1. In high season a lot of hostels can be full. Several camping grounds are also available. One which is fairly centrally located and is very likely to have some vacancies is Santana´s Camping. Located on the opposite side to Resta 1 on the street connecting two main streets. Pousada Beira Mar, Rua da Praia (10 m from the eastern pier in Vila Abraão), ☏ +55 24 3361-5051, beiramar2000@uol.com.br. Clean, pleasant pousada with German management, in a perfect location in Vila Abraão. The breakfast buffet is great. If you want to spoil yourself, get one of the front rooms with hammocks where you can watch the people and boats at the piers. Pousada do Holandes, R. da Assembléia, ☏ +55 24 3361-5034. Really festive colors. 1 Overnativa Green Hostel (Over Nativa), R. Getúlio Vargas, 517, ☏ +55 24 3361-5108. 2 Bugio Pousada (Bugio Hostel), Av. Getúlio Vargas, 225 (in front of Armazém Beer), ☏ +55 24 3361-5473, ilhagrande@bugiohostel.com.br. Pousada Paloma, R. Getúlio Vargas, 638, ☏ +55 24 3361-5063. Nice hammocks and drinks, in case you are feeling hedonistic. Che Lagarto Hostel Ilha Grande, Rua Canto da Praia S/N, ☏ +55 24 3361-9669, ilhagrande@chelagarto.com. Pousada Alfa, R. da Praia, 847 - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 3361-5315. May be a nice setting but kind of lacks some upkeep. R$ 185-285. (updated Dec 2017) Porto Abraão Pousada, Rua da Romana, 85 - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 3361-5240. R$ 188. (updated Dec 2017) Estalagem Costa Verde, R. Amâncio Felicio de Souza, 239A - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 98188-4367. R$ 220. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Casa Bonita, Rua Dona Romana - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 21 98604-3841. R$ 235. (updated Dec 2017) === Mid-Range === Pousada Olhos d'Água, Rua do Cemitério, ☏ +55 24 3361-5071. Nice little hotel bit further away from the Abraão village center and port area. Quiet and clean eco-friendly place (for example water is heated with solar energy). They also have a decent pool and house seems to have been renovated. Breakfast is good. Pousada is situated on the edge of the village and next to it is jungle. It takes some walking (maybe 400-500 m) uphill from the port, but it is worth it. Pousada Pedacinho de Céu, Rua A, 78 - Bouganville - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 3361-5099. R$ 282. (updated Dec 2017) === Splurge === Pousada Naturalia, Rua da Praia, ☏ +55 24 3361-9583, reservas@pousadanaturalia.com. Beautiful natural eco-friendly (they use solar panels) pousada, hidden within the quiet side of Vila Abraão. All rooms have balconies with hammock and garden chairs, table, facing the quiet sea with palm trees framing the view. The staff is extra friendly and helpful, and will provide you with the best tips for your time in Ilha Grande. The owner greets you personally with a freshly squeezed juice of the day, and a great smile. Breakfast is served at a lounge where a big rock sits next to it, and humming birds coming by to have their share. Has to be one of the best pousada in Ilha Grande. From about R$366. Pousada D´Pillel, R. do Bicão, 51, ☏ +55 24 3361-5075. Lots of arranging of cakes and fruits for the guests and hammocks to while the time away in. R$ 307. (updated Jan 2021) Asalem, Praia da Crena (Crena beach), ☏ +55 24 3361-5602, asalem@asalem.com.br. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 10:00. Asalem has a private setting. The seaside hideaway has 6 waterfront suites surrounded by the rain forest that overlooks the calm bay of Crena beach. This proximity to the ocean offers rare glimpses of sea creatures such as starfish and turtles, as well as abundant schools of fish. The forest brings frequent visitors, including monkeys, squirrels, fireflies, blue butterflies and a wide variety of exotic tropical birds. 20 minutes' walk from the main village or 5 minutes by the hotel's taxi boat, available 24/7. The owner is a worldly known photographer who takes care of all the details, with his wife. 3 Atlantica Jungle Lodge, Praia do Pouso, S/N, ☏ +55 21 99999-5577. (updated Dec 2017) Bonito Paraíso Beach House, Rua 9, S/N - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 11 3690-4747, bonitoparaisobeachhouse@gmail.com. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Tagomago, R. da Praia, 121, ☏ + 55 21 99930-1965, +55 24 3361-5198, pousadatagomago@hotmail.com. 360 R$ (double). (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Albatroz, Rua das Flores, 151 - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 3361-5903, albatroz.contato@gmail.com. R$ 318. (updated Dec 2017) Aratinga, R. das Flores, 232 - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 3361-9559. R$ 669. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Caúca, Ilha do Abraão - R. Getúlio Vargas, 300 - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 3361-5292. R$ 376. (updated Dec 2017) O Pescador, R. da Praia, 647 - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 3361-5114. R$ 350. (updated Dec 2017) Canoa da Praia, Rua Dona Romana, 14 - Vila do Abraão - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 21 99886-0088. R$ 340. (updated Dec 2017) Recreio da Praia, Rua da Praia, s/n - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 3361-5266. R$ 413. (updated Dec 2017) Beto's Pousada, Travessa Buganville, 63 - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 7813-6471. R$ 360. (updated Dec 2017) Praia da Crena Restaurante E Pousada, ☏ +55 24 33706717, hospedagensobjetivatour@gmail.com. R$ 549. (updated Dec 2017) Sagu Mini Resort, Enseada da Praia Brava, s/n, CEP 23968-970, ☏ +55 24 3361-5823. R$ 627. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada dos Meros, R. Getúlio Vargas, 719, ☏ +55 21 99850-2505. Nice tropical ambience. R$ 1155+. (updated Jan 2021) === Camping === The best option for budget travelling is camping, which must be done inside legalized areas to avoid getting into trouble. Most camping grounds are priced R$20 (per person) each night, which usually makes the choice a matter of preference. Some of the Campings (such as Camping do Sossego and Camping do Lúcio) accept only couples. The installations below are located on Vila do Abraão, basically comprised of two main parallel streets, which concentrate most services. Rua da Praia runs along the ocean, and Rua Getúlio Vargas runs behind it. 4 Alfa Camping, Estr. Dois Rios, s/n, ☏ +55 24 3361 5745. A place to pitch your tent, or stay in a hut if you prefer. Then there's a dining area and lots of shade to stay cool. 5 Camping Cantinho da Ilha, Ilha Grande State Park - R. Getúlio Vargas, 153, ☏ +55 24 98110-8082. Just like the others, a campground and enclosed hostel building. 6 Camping e Hostel do Bicão, R. do Bicão, 133, ☏ +55 24 3361-5076. 7 Camping do Lúcio, R. Getúlio Vargas, s/n, ☏ +55 24 3361-5775. R$40 (couple). 8 Camping Raio de Sol, close to end of R. Amâncio Felicio de Souza, S/N - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 99817 8074. Here the libations flow pretty freely but you needn't feel bad about drinking all alone. Also has some wifi. Camping Sombra dos Coqueirais, Avenida Beira Mar, 7 - Vila do Abraão, ☏ +55 24 3361 9690. This one is nice because you might be able to hear the surf from your tent. === Praia do Aventureiro === 9 Camping do Purungo. (updated Dec 2017) 10 Camping da Larissa. (updated Dec 2017) 11 Recanto do Aventureiro, Aventureiro, ☏ +55 21 99639-8745. (updated Dec 2017) 12 Pousada Morada do Aventureiro Ilha Grande, Aventureiro, ☏ +55 21 99599-4618, +55 24 3377-6736, morada_do_aventureiro@hotmail.com. This is a hotel and hostel. They also organise some tours and boat trips. (updated Dec 2017) 13 Camping do Digão, Aventureiro. Some basic dwellings here where you can bring out your inner primal being. (updated Dec 2017) === Other areas === Aracatiba town is a cheaper option but it doesn't offer much in terms of tourist facilities, it´s more for weekend tourists who live in Angra dos Reis area already. It's far away from Abraão, Lopes Mendes or Dois Rios, not a very convenient choice if it's your first visit to the island. Bananal Beach or Sitio Forte have nice mini-resorts, a good option for honeymooners. 14 Camping Do Seu Silvio, Parnaioca. (updated Dec 2017) 15 Camping Dona Marta Parnaioca, Parnaioca. (updated Dec 2017) 16 Club MV, Praia dos Galos, s/n; Saco do Céu, ☏ +55 24 99982-9282. Bunch of bungalows on the beach. ca. 250 USD (double room). (updated Dec 2017) Pousada do Pedrão, Praia de Japariz, SN Japariz, R. Ilha Grande - Guaxuma, ☏ +55 24 99921-7169. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Japariz, Praia de Japariz, SN Japariz, R. Ilha Grande - Guaxuma, ☏ +55 21 97832-8922. (updated Dec 2017) Paraíso Azul Retiro, Praia Pequena da Freguesia de Santana, Lagoa Azul - Freguesia de Santana, CEP 28800-000 (25 km from Angra dos Reis ferry terminal), ☏ +55 24 99831-0050, +55 24 99944 0512, reservas@paraisoazul.com.br. A 2-minute walk from Araça Beach. The rooms feature ceiling fans, mosquito nets, and verandas that have hammocks, and lagoon or ocean views. Suites add living areas, minibars and air-conditioning. There are no TVs. Continental breakfast is complimentary. An open-air restaurant/bar serves home-style cuisine. Other amenities include an outdoor pool, a hot tub and a sauna, plus a yoga room. Kayak rentals and boat excursions are offered. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Casa Nova, Bananal, ☏ +55 24 99819-7899. R$230 per person. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Três Coqueiros, Enseada do Bananal - Praia de Bananal, CEP 23968-970, ☏ +55 11 96451-8547, +55 24 3365-2020, +55 24 99277-0328 (WhatsApp), contato@pousadatrescoqueiros.com.br. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada do Preto, Bananal, ☏ +55 24 99968-9310, contato@pousadadopreto.com.br. Check-in: 08:00-18:00. Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pousadadopreto/ (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Nautilus, Praia de Jaconema, S/N - CEP 23900-900, ☏ +55 24 99858-2295 (WhatsApp), falecom@nautilus.tur.br. Nextel ID: 55*137*1239. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Maria Bonita, Praia de Passaterra, s/n - Enseada do Sítio Forte,, ☏ +55 24 3365 3803, +55 24 3365 2198. (updated Dec 2017) Recanto dos Pássaros, Praia de Maguariquissaba, s/n - Matariz, ☏ +55 24 3365-2865, contato@recantodospassarosig.com.br. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Mar de Sonhos, Praia da Cachoeira, ☏ +55 21 98696-5917. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Refúgio do Capitão, Praia de Araçatiba, CEP 23900-620, ☏ +55 24 98851-6197, +55 24 98851-6521, reservas@refugiodocapitao.com.br. (updated Dec 2017) 17 Bem Natural Pousada e Camping, Praia de Araçatiba, CEP 23900-970, ☏ +55 24 3377-6826. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Gabriel, Praia de Araçatiba, CEP 23968-000, ☏ +55 24 99818-3333. (updated Dec 2017) Ilha Hostel, Avenida Beira Mar Nº 12; Praia grande de Araçatiba; CEP 23900-000, ☏ +55 11 947342475, +55 11 970458916, reservas@bbilhagrande.com.br. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Cruzoé, Rua Beira Mar, 503 - Praia de Araçatiba, CEP 23900-000, ☏ +55 24 99955-5036. (updated Dec 2017) Hostel da Praia Ilha Grande, Praia de Araçatiba, ☏ +55 24 99825-0744. (updated Dec 2017) Pousada Lagamar, Praia Vermelha, ☏ +55 24 99904-6623, reservas@pousadalagamar.com.br. (updated Dec 2017) Camping Da Janete, Praia da Parnaioca - Estr. Dois Rios - Parnaioca, ☏ +55 21 3354-6064, janetebjfarias@hotmail.com. (updated Dec 2017) 18 Pousada Vila Pedra Mar, Rua da Praia, 1 - Praia Vermelha, 75490-000, ☏ +55 24 99971-4660, mail@vilapedramar.com. (updated Dec 2017) == Connect == There is a signal for mobile phones just in a few places. Public phones can be found everywhere. == Go next == There is a ferry to Angra dos Reis daily at 10:00. The intercity bus to Rio departs from the central bus station at 12:00, which might be missed when the boat leaves late. Another bus departs at 15:00. There are also several Blablacar rides to Rio. The intercity bus costs R$57 (Dec 2021) and the Blablacar rides around R$35 (Dec 2021). Some boats have Mangaratiba routes at 10:00 with a connection to Rio de Janeiro, but take care choose the Original Fast Connection, with legal vehicles, or-- you need take a minibus to the main route and then take a bus on the highway to Rio. It's better to go to Angra dos Reis, take the Costa Verde bus, wait for the ferry at the pier, and go directly to the bus station in Rio de Janeiro. A couple of agencies, for instance 'Fast Connection Island Travel' with an office right by the piers, offer "express connection" to Rio. You go by speedboat to the mainland and a van transports you to your hotel in Rio. It may not be much more expensive than paying for a ferry ticket + bus to Rio + Uber from the Rio bus terminal. However, the claims of getting to Rio in less than 2 hours should not be counted on. For instance, in case of bad weather the speed boat will not depart and you will be put on the regular ferry - the trip to Rio may then take six hours or even more. Don't risk missing your flight home.