Ubeda

Compact and walkable, the small city of Úbeda can be found just off the main Andalusian tourist trail at the centre of Spain's Jaén province. As a refreshing change, Moorish heritage is not the main draw here; it's the fantastic collection of Italian-inspired Renaissance era palaces and churches. == Understand == === History === These graceful hills have likely settled since at least Roman times, although the town of Úbeda wouldn't be known as such until the rule of the Emir Abd ar-Rahman II (822–852). The town was ruled by the Moors for centuries, until falling into Christian hands during the Reconquista, in 1233. After years of internecine squabbling between minor nobles, tensions among the ruling families had reached a boiling point. Isabella and Ferdinand feared the nobility would soon turn their armies on one another, so the two monarchs hatched a plan. The high stone walls of Úbeda's Alcázar were commanded to be toppled. Unruly nobles were ordered to cooperate and rebuild together if they wanted to have any hope of defending their city. This—perhaps along with small quality of life improvements for the peasants—seems to have done the trick of restoring good order. At the dawn of the 16th century, a relative peace and fortuitous location allowed Úbeda to prosper through trade. The town's fortunes improved yet again when emperor Charles V married into a local family, spurring a rash of stately Renaissance construction. Many of the fine buildings in town today date from this time. Eventually the political spotlight turned elsewhere. Over the years a series of natural disasters and wars took their toll on the local economy, and the town was brought to its lowest point. Later, as the 20th century rolled on, agricultural improvements allowed more olives to be grown. Today tourism and cultural events are the newest additions to Úbeda's growing repertoire. === Visitor information === 1 Tourist Information Office, 5 Plaza de Andalucia, ☏ +34 953 779 204. Daily 09:00-17:00. Adjacent to the clocktower, the staff in this little office speak English and have plenty of fine maps and advice to dole out on whatever it is you're interested in seeing. == Get in == With the closest train station being in Linares and airports being hundreds of miles away, your best bet is going to involve four wheels. === By bus === Dozens of ALSA buses shuttle back and forth to nearby Baeza (€2, 15 min) and Jaén (€6, 1 hr) daily, while there are also frequent connections with Granada (€8-13, 2½ hr) and other points to the south. You'll also find a few buses serving Cordoba (€7-13, 2 hr 30 min) and points north. 1 Bus station (Estación de Autobuses de Úbeda), Calle San José, 23400, ☏ +34 953 470 885. A great but small station. A dozen or so lockers are available on-premises for 24-hour rental for about €4. Getting there/away: there is a taxi stand just outside the station on Calle San José. If you're connecting to a local bus, the stop is just across the street. === By car === The A-32 from Linares, and the A-316 from Jaén will both run you into town. If you're headed instead from far away Albacete, the N-322 will be the road for you. All roads are quite well maintained and easy to navigate. == Get around == Seeing the sights in town is an activity best undertaken on foot. The bus station is about a mile from the center; however, so consider cabbing it to your hotel when you first arrive. Private cars are not worth it at all in Úbeda, as parking is scarce and many sites are not accessible by car. Plus, all the modern ride-hailing apps are available here if you do find yourself in need of making a quick trip. Bikes are a great idea if you're going to be touring the captivating countryside; but again, the general closeness of everything and roughness of the old streets make in town cycling trips often not worth it. == See == The dozens of magnificent Renaissance era buildings here were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003, and by far and away the reason most folks stop by. If possible, avoid visiting Úbeda on Mondays, when many sites are closed or have reduced hours. While all facades have been preserved, few interiors remain in their original 16th century state. They've often been turned into municipal buildings, or stately hotels for the well heeled. Either way, they're beautiful. It's easy to let your imagination run wild as you get lost rambling through the narrow streets of the old city. 1 Basílica de Santa María de los Reales Alcázares, Plaza Vázquez de Molina, ☏ +34 953 756 583. M-Sa 11:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00 (depending on the season, it will open as early as 16:00, and close as late as 22:00); Su 09:30-14:00 and May-Sep: 17:00-22:00). The church of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares de Úbeda sits on a sacred place, built atop the remains of a mosque destroyed during the conquest of the city in 1233. The oldest parts of the church were built around 1259, but visitors mostly enjoy all the remains and additions of various styles the site has acquired over the years. The cloister, added towards the end of the 15th century, is a particular favourite. The church was badly damaged in the Spanish Civil War, waiting until 1983 to undergo a 28-year restoration. €4. (updated Nov 2020) 2 Murallas de la Ciudad, Redonda de Miradores. 24 hours daily. Circling the city, these walls were first built around the 10th century, and have been extensively modified over the years. Various doors and watchtowers puncture the barricades and peak out atop the bulwarks. The scenic loop in the southeastern quadrant of the city affords particularly spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and its olive-laden hills. Free. 3 Palacio de Juan Vázquez de Molina (Palacio de las Cadenas), Plaza Vázquez de Molina, ☏ +34 953 750 440. M-F 08:00-20:00; Sa 10:00-14:00, 16:00-20:30; Su 10:00-14:00. Considered to be one of the best examples of Renaissance architecture in Spain, the palace was built between 1546 and 1565. Architect Andrés de Vandelvira designed this palace as a Roman house, creating its entire structure around a large courtyard with a fountain in its center. The main facade is very well proportioned and quite beautiful. This has been Úbeda's town hall since at least 1850. Free. 4 Parroquia de San Pablo, ☏ +34 953 750 637. Tu-Sa 11:00-13:00, 18:00-20:00; Su 11:00-13:00. One of the oldest in Úbeda, this church is believed to have been built some time during the 13th century. Its location in a central square and its proximity to the old town hall, made it the perfect choice for city council meetings throughout the 15th century. In the early 16th century, the building was embellished with Renaissance details under Alonso Suárez de la Fuente, who carried out extensive renovations and enlargements. Free. 5 Sacra Capilla del Salvador del Mundo, Plaza Vázquez de Molina, ☏ +34 609 279 905. M-Sa 09:30-14:30, 16:00-18:00; Su 11:30-15:00, 16:00-19:00. Built between 1536-1559 under the patronage of Francisco de los Cobos. It was conceived as a funerary monument, and was re-envisioned while under construction to elevate the patron's fame, fortune, and personal glory. The complex sculptural decoration of both the main facade and interior contrast boldly with the austerity of the Palacio de Molina, on display just down the road. The chapel's grandiose circular centralized crypt is meant to expresses a unity with, and the infinite essence of, God. €5 including audioguide, children €2.50. == Do == 1 Hospital of Santiago, 28 Calle Obispo Cobos, ☏ +34 953 750 842. M-F 07:30-14:00, 15:30-22:00; Sa Su 10:00-14:00, 17:00-22:00. This massive space was built around 1562-1575, and spans an entire city block. It's since been completely renovated and now houses a massive event space as well as a library. Work by new and established artists adorns the walls and rotates often. Check their calendar for information about upcoming live performances. Free. == Buy == There's honestly not that many shops here selling items that couldn't be found in a larger city. But if you're looking anyway, your best bet may be to stroll Calle Real. This busy commercial street starts just behind the clock tower, and makes a straight shot down-down-down towards the center of the old city. == Eat == Granada isn't the only place where tapas are still come gratis with your drink order! This custom may endure here due to Úbeda's cultural roots, or it could simply be the lower number of tourists traipsing about town. Whatever the reason, the tradition carries on. Traditional local cuisine from Úbeda is home cooked, featuring the omnipresent olive, yet changing with the seasons. Several popular stews in the area originate from old Moorish recipes; like chickpeas with chard, or fava beans with eggplant. Keep an eye out for Los Andrajos, a typical pasta dish you'll find accented with seasonal vegetables. 1 Cafetería Y Churreria Millán, 33 Corredera San Fernando, ☏ +34 953 752 223. Daily 07:00-13:00. If Cheers was a Churro café and not a bar, it'd be this place. Locals pop in and order their usual. After catching up on the newest gossip, they plunk a few coins down on the counter and bid a good day to all. €2-5. 2 La Tintorera, ☏ +34 953 033 952. Daily 12:00-16:00, 20:00-23:45. The wines and olive oils here are top notch. The waitstaff is accustomed to providing recommendations for local and foregin palates alike. €12-25. 3 Taberna Misa de 12, 7 Plaza Primero de Mayo (northeast corner of the Plaza), ☏ +34 953 828 197. Daily 12:00-16:00, 20:30-23:15. Outstanding traditional Spanish cuisine (and wines!) with a nice view of the Plaza and nearby 16th century church. When it gets busy, the waitstaff really hustles. €15-30. == Drink == There aren't dozens of options for nightlife in Úbeda, but the town is just big enough to support a smattering of late-night establishments. 1 La Beltraneja Pop Club, 6 Calle Alcolea. Daily 16:00-03:00. Clubby vibe, open late, with hookahs available on the outdoor patio. == Sleep == If there is a bit of room in the budget, consider upgrading your hotel room while in town. Prices are a bit more reasonable here, and a small bump might see your surroundings improve considerably. 1 Hotel Ordóñez Sandoval, 1 Calle Antonio Medina, ☏ +34 679 803 942. €50-70. 2 Afán de Rivera, 4 Calle Afán de Rivera, ☏ +34 953 791 987. €65-100. 3 Palacio de Úbeda, 2 Calle Juan Pasquau, ☏ +34 953 810 973. Relatively pricy, but not without reason. This is a stunningly restored and updated 16th-century palace. Near everything. €135-180. == Go next == Offering the incredible Alhambra—among many other attractions—Granada is an unmissable Andalusian delight. Two and a half hours by bus. Spend two hours heading north to Cordoba. You'll be a bit hotter, but taking in the famous striped archways of La Mezquita makes every bead of sweat worth it. Baeza, Úbeda's sister city is few minutes away and offers a similar array of beautiful Renaissance architecture. Long a relative touristic backwater, visitors are beginning to rediscover Jaén's many cultural and natural resources. Stay off the beaten track by getting out and exploring the village of Cazorla and its Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla.