for seven months it is rarely accessible except on snow shoes it never in the dense forests which bound it and two thirds of its gaunt are of brown bears wolves deer and on its margin i found an irregular wooden inn with a at the door on which war the of a large bear shot behind tho house this morning i had intended to ride ten miles farther but ending that the trail in some places was a blind one and being by the beauty and serenity a lady s life v of i have remained here in the view from the and strolling in the forest at this height there is frost every night of the year and my fingers are the beauty is the sinking sun is out of sight behind the western and all the on this side of the water are rich just with lake deepening here and there into purple the peaks above which still catch the sun are bright rose red and all the mountains on the other side are pink and pink too are the far off on which the snow rest red and orange tints stain the still water which lies solemn and dark against the shore under the shadow of stately pines an hour later and a moon nearly full � not a pale flat but a radiant sphere � has wheeled up into the flushed sky the sunset has passed through every stage of beauty through every glory of colour through riot and triumph through pathos and tenderness into a long dreamy rest succeeded by the profound solemnity of the moonlight and a stillness broken only by the night cries of beasts in the f l l b the mountains letter ii a lady s � � get up � the of h � a tragic a of colour september as night came on the cold and the stove in the parlour attracted every one a san lady much got up in paint green velvet lace and diamonds rattled for the amusement of the company giving descriptions of persons and scenes in a western without the slightest scruple as to what she said in a few years will be in summer with similar vulgarity owing to its of access i sustained the reputation which our bear in america by looking a perfect and feeling that i was a point for the speaker s next sally i was relieved when the landlady a asked me to join herself and her family in the bar room where we had much talk about the neighbourhood and its wild beasts especially bears the forest is full of them but they seem never to attack people unless when o lady s life in ite u wounded or much by dogs or a thinks you are going to her young i of bears so vividly that i woke with a death at my throat but feeling quite refreshed when i mounted my horse after breakfast the sun was high and the air so keen and that giving the animal his head i galloped up and down hill feeling completely truly that air is the of life i had a glorious ride back to the road was not as solitary as the day before in a deep part of the forest the horse and reared and i saw a bear with two cross the track ahead of me i tried to keep the horse quiet that the mother might me of any designs upon her children but i was glad when the party crossed the river then i met a team the driver of which stopped and said he was glad that i had not gone to bay it was such a bad trail and hoped i had enjoyed the driver of another team stopped and asked if i had seen any bears then a man heavily armed a hunter probably asked me if i were the english who had happened on a yesterday then i saw a taking his dinner on a rock the river who touched his hat and brought me a draught of ice cold water which i could hardly wing to the of the horse and ii the mountains gathered me some mountain which i admired i mention these little incidents to indicate the habit of respectful courtesy to women which in that region these men might hare been excused for speaking in a somewhat free and easy tone to a lady riding alone and in an unwonted fashion womanly dignity and manly respect for women are the salt of society in this wild west my horse was so that i avoided the centre of and through a collection of s to the stable where a prodigious horse standing seventeen hands high was produced for my ride to the lake i asked the owner who was as interested in my enjoying myself as a west might have been if there were not about who might make an evening ride dangerous a story was current of a man having ridden through two evenings before with a up human body in a sack behind the saddle and hosts of stories of are there rightly or this man said there s a bad breed of but the among them all won t touch you there s nothing western folk admire so much as pluck in a woman i had to get on a barrel before i could reach the and when i was mounted my feet only came half way down the horse s sides i felt like a fly on him the road first lay through a valley without a lady s life in h a but some nourished some rank swamp grass the first green grass i have seen in america and the pines with their red stems looked beautiful rising out of it i hurried along and came upon the lake quite suddenly to be completely smitten by its beauty it is 