Risk management and governance of chemicals in articles. Case study textiles

In the context of a project on risk management of chemicals in products and articles, this report analyzes risks associated with chemicals in textiles, and approaches and measures in risk management and governance. The emphasis is on Finnish conditions and environmental risks, but these are put in a global and multi-risk context as it presents key management challenges as well as opportunities. Risks from chemicals in textiles are relatively neglected in comparison to many other risks from chemicals, although textiles and chemicals arouse intense interest. Chemicals associated with textiles throughout their life cycles pose multi-dimensional risks and impacts on ecosystems as well as to human health, well-being and safety. These risks and impacts are shaped by the particular characteristics of these groups of products, such as their heterogeneity and multi-stage treatment and varied exposure patterns, and the properties of chemicals themselves such as those of persistent bio-accumulative chemicals with long-term adverse effects. The risks are also dynamically evolving along with technological and social changes, and many of them are poorly known. In addition to risks, chemicals in textiles provide great and varied benefits, particularly when applied for safety, durability and technical improvements. Key tasks in risk governance therefore include the balancing of risks with benefits and the conciliation of the interests and activities of different actors, involving questions of substitute chemicals, products and processes. Many legally based, voluntary and hybrid management approaches and measures are available. The legally based measures include chemical regulations such as those on REACH and biocides, which have been insufficiently targeted on chemicals in articles; regulations on production processes and wastes; and regulations for product safety. These involve instruments at EU and other levels, and various forms of compliance monitoring and surveillance. Voluntary initiatives by industry are also proliferating, and information steering especially through Eco-labels is an established practice of co-governance involving enterprises, consumers and the public sector. It can yet be concluded that there are importance gaps and deficits in risk management. The keys to better risk governance are broader framings of risks and opportunities and improved implementation of established policy instruments along with the development and application of new ones, in integrated and coherent but open and adaptive approaches. They need to combine regulatory governance with eco-design, supply chain management and consumer based strategies. National and EU actions are insufficient to prevent risks from chemicals applied to textiles in other regions, but these can be influenced by bottom-up strategies. Management of information including multi-actor deliberation on risks, impacts, opportunities and uncertainties is an integral part of this, both in traditional monitoring for instance of chemicals in textiles and emissions and in influencing producer and consumer choices. The report includes general conclusions regarding elements for improved risk management as well as evaluations and recommendations on nationally based activities by different actors.