An Investigation of the Sizing, Grading, and Fit of Commercial Sewing Patterns.

MCLENDON, DEBRA, LEE. An Investigation of the Sizing, Grading, and Fit of Commercial Sewing Patterns. (Under the direction of Dr. Cynthia Istook, Committee Chair, Dr. Katherine Carroll, Committee Member, and Dr. Marguerite Moore, Committee Member). Fit is the most critical component that ensures consumer satisfaction with garments constructed from commercial sewing patterns. The purpose of this study was to evaluate current commercial sewing pattern industry sizing, grading, and fit practices and propose ways to improve sizing and fit. Sizing standards for U.S. commercial sewing patterns in the Missy 6 – 22 size range are based on outdated anthropometric studies conducted over 71 years ago. U.S. pattern companies have not changed their sizing standards since 1972. Data from more recent sizing surveys, such as SizeUSA (2004), shows the body shapes and measurements of the population of U.S. women have changed. U.S. pattern sizing is based on the hourglass figure, which represents only 8% of the U.S. population of women. Much confusion surrounds pattern size selection, since consumers typically need to purchase a pattern several sizes larger than their average ready-made clothing size. Basic fit patterns (fitting shells) and semi-fitted sheath dress patterns were purchased from five major brands under study (Burda, Butterick, McCall‟s, New Look, Vogue). Sizes 10 and 18 were selected to cut and construct sample garments for fit-testing on fitting mannequins. Quantitative methods were used to measure key body areas of the bust, waist, and hip of tissue patterns and compare them to finished garment measurements provided by pattern companies. Amounts of ease and finished pattern measures were used to determine if these measures conformed to the ease specifications for each fit category and matched printed pattern measures. The fit of five different brands of sample garments on fitting mannequins was compared using qualitative visual analysis. Fit was assessed to identify any fitting issues that might be related to the patterns. Patterns were measured to verify if the circumference grades for the bust, waist, and hip were in accordance with pattern companies‟ standardized body measurements. The results clearly indicated that current pattern sizing does not conform to the body profiles of today‟s consumers and that the fit needs of a significant part of the population are unmet with current pattern offerings. The study also found that current pattern sizing is not aligned with sizing indicated by the most recent sizing survey. Results showed that the majority of brands studied failed to contain the ideal amount of ease and that some of the printed measures on all brands were different from physical measures. Results indicated a significant difference in the fit of different brands. Findings also indicated the majority of brands were graded in accordance with pattern company measurements. This research provides useful information to the commercial sewing pattern industry on ways to improve patterns for the target consumer. Amateur and professional sewers could also benefit from the insight on pattern sizing and fit provided in this study. An Investigation of the Sizing, Grading, and Fit of Commercial Sewing Patterns by Debra Lee McLendon A thesis submitted to the Graduate Faculty of North Carolina State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science