Trainable Physical Variables as Determinants of Rock Climbing Performance

by Shannon M. Kiehl Rock climbing causes a variety of physiological changes over time, as observed in elite climbers. The purpose of this study was to determine which trainable physical variables were the strongest predictors of rock climbing performance. Male (n = 22) and female (n = 3) rock climbers (18-23 yrs) underwent assessments for sixteen variables: climbing volume, body fat percentage (BF%), handgrip and pincer strength and endurance, upper-body strength and endurance and power, lower-body strength and power, balance, hip flexibility, core endurance, and maximum oxygen consumption (VO2max). A scored performance climb was used to measure climbing ability. Upper-body endurance, BF%, climbing volume, core endurance, and VO2max all significantly (p < 0.05) correlated with climbing performance. A backward stepwise regression analysis explained 85.1% of the variance seen in climbing performance. From strongest to weakest, the following physical variables can predict rock climbing performance: upper-body power, handgrip strength, balance, pincer strength, BF%, and pincer endurance. TRAINABLE PHYSICAL VARIABLES AS DETERMINANTS OF ROCK CLIMBING PERFORMANCE by Shannon M. Kiehl An Thesis presented in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in the Department of Nutrition and Kinesiology University of Central Missouri December, 2016  2016 Shannon M. Kiehl ALL RIGHTS RESERVED TRAINABLE PHYSICAL VARIABLES AS DETERMINANTS OF ROCK CLIMBING PERFORMANCE by Shannon M. Kiehl December, 2016 APPROVED: Thesis Chair: Dr. Steve Burns Thesis Committee Member: Dr. Jennifer Case Thesis Committee Member: Dr. Swarna Mandali ACCEPTED: Interim Chair, Department of Nutrition and Kinesiology: Dr. Dennis Docheff UNIVERSITY OF CENTRAL MISSOURI WARRENSBURG, MISSOURI ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I would like to thank my thesis committee for their help and guidance. I owe a great deal of gratitude to my mentor and advisor, Dr. Steve Burns. He has pushed me to grow academically and professionally, and I am a better person because of his continuous support. I am extremely grateful to Dr. Jennifer Case, Dr. Swarna Mandali and Dr. Wooyoung Lee for providing their expertise and helping me further develop my thesis. I especially want to thank Dr. Scott Strohmeyer for always taking the time to help me, whether it was on my thesis or in the classroom. Appreciation and thanks shall not go unmentioned to all those who participated in the study and those who helped with data collection. I am especially grateful to my brother, Paul Kiehl, for helping me recruit individuals and for always giving me a helping hand or word of encouragement. Lastly, I want to dedicate this work in loving memory of Mary Brinkley. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page LIST OF TABLES. x CHAPTER 1: NATURE AND SCOPE OF THE STUDY. 2 Need for the Study. 2 Statement of the Study . 3 Research Question . 3 Hypotheses . 3 Assumptions . 3 Delimitations . 4 Limitations . 4 Definitions . 4 CHAPTER 2: REVIEW OF LITERATURE. 7 Rock Climbing Background . 7 Anthropometric, Physiological, and Psychological Factors . 8 Climbing Performance, Experience, and Body Fat Percentage . 12 Aerobic and Anaerobic Contributions . 14 Upper-Body Components.17 Lower-Body Components . 21 Stability and Flexibility . 21 Summary . 26 CHAPTER 3: METHODOLOGY . 28 vii Page Introduction . 28 Subjects . 28 Visits . 29 Climbing Trials . 29 Body Fat Percentage . 30 Handgrip Strength and Endurance . 30 Pincer Strength and Endurance . 31 Upper-Body Endurance, Strength, and Power . 32 Lower-Body Strength and Endurance . 33 Hip Flexion and Abduction Flexibility . 34 Balance . 35 Core Endurance . 35 VO2max . 36 Statistical Analysis . 36 CHAPTER 4: RESULTS . 38 CHAPTER 5: DISCUSSION/CONCLUSION . 43 Discussion . 43 Conclusion . 55 Recommendations for Future Research . 55 REFERENCES . 57 APPENDIXES . 70