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+.vertical-story-card-item{cursor:pointer;font-family:"ReithSans","Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,sans-serif;height:456px;margin:20px 10px;position:relative;width:297px}@media only screen and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-story-card-item{width:276px}}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.vertical-story-card-item{width:276px}}.vertical-story-card-item img{width:100%}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box{background-color:#fff;bottom:0;box-shadow:0 0 5px #d8d8d8;display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:111px;justify-content:center;position:absolute;right:0;width:275px}@media only screen and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-story-card-item__content-box{width:261px}}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box h1{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:.75rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0;padding:0 10px;text-transform:uppercase}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box h2{color:#3d3d3d;font-size:1.3125rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.06px;line-height:42px;margin:0;padding:0 10px}
+.vertical-story-group{font-family:"ReithSans","Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,sans-serif;position:relative}.vertical-story-group img{object-fit:cover;width:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-container{height:370px;position:relative;width:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-container img{height:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-mask{background:linear-gradient(to right, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6), rgba(0, 0, 0, 0));bottom:0;left:0;position:absolute;right:0;top:0}.vertical-story-group__heading-container{color:#fff;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:80px;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container{top:120px}}.vertical-story-group__heading-container button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:.875rem;letter-spacing:.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none}.vertical-story-group__heading-container h1{font-size:.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;margin-bottom:20px}.vertical-story-group__heading-container h2{font-size:2.1rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:0;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;position:absolute;right:0;top:65px;width:70%}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape{align-items:center;flex-direction:column}}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape h1{color:#fff;font-size:2.25rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:.95px;margin:0}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:.875rem;height:60px;letter-spacing:.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none;width:260px}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button{margin-top:50px}}.vertical-story-group__container{display:grid;grid-auto-rows:minmax(auto, auto);grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit, minmax(290px, 310px));height:100%;justify-content:center;justify-items:center;margin-top:-210px;width:100%}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__container{margin-top:-120px}}.beta-btn{background-color:#e6711b;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;height:25px;line-height:12px;padding:0 7px;width:66px}.beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow{cursor:pointer;transform:rotate(45deg)}.beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow--expanded{transform:rotate(-35deg)}.beta-btn__copy{color:#444;display:block;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:17px;margin:16px auto;max-width:50%}.beta-btn__arrow{border:solid #fff;border-width:0 2px 2px 0;display:inline-block;padding:3px;position:relative;top:-1px;transform:rotate(-45deg);transition:.4s}.beta-btn__arrow--expanded{transform:rotate(45deg)}
+.location-header{font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;text-transform:uppercase}
+.temperature-switcher{background:rgba(0,0,0,0);border:0;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;font-weight:300;white-space:nowrap}.temperature-switcher:active{color:currentColor}.temperature-switcher__active{font-weight:bold}.temperature-switcher span{margin:0 .2ex}
+.day{--w-day-font-size: 14px;--w-day-temp-font-size: 20px;--w-day-temp-font-size-big: 32px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: 600;--w-day-name-font-weight: 500;align-items:center;color:#959595;display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-size:var(--w-day-font-size)}.day--desktop{--w-day-temp-font-size: 24px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: normal;--w-day-name-font-weight: 600}.day:first-of-type{color:#4b4b4b}.day__name{font-weight:var(--w-day-name-font-weight);line-height:1;margin-bottom:.75em;text-transform:uppercase}.day__symbol-header{display:block;height:80px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:98px}.day__symbol{display:block;height:40px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:50px}.day--desktop .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-top:15px;width:70px}.day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size);font-weight:var(--w-day-temp-font-weight);line-height:1.2;margin-top:.75em;text-transform:lowercase}.day__temp--header{color:#4b4b4b;font-size:32px;font-weight:bold}.day--mobile:first-of-type{display:flex;flex-flow:row wrap;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:3em}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-right:10px;overflow:visible;width:80px}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size-big);font-weight:bold;margin-top:0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location{font-size:120%;font-weight:500;margin:1em 0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{color:#959595}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location,.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{text-align:center;width:100%}
+.weather{--w-height: 50px;--w-wrapper-margin: 24px;--w-days-flexbasis: 33%;margin-bottom:2rem}.weather--desktop{--w-height: 80px;--w-wrapper-margin: 50px;--w-days-flexbasis: initial;margin-bottom:1rem}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .weather__days{flex-flow:row wrap}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .day:first-of-type{flex-basis:100%;width:auto}.weather__separator{border-right:1px solid #dcdcdc;display:block;height:var(--w-height)}.weather__days{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-basis:var(--w-days-flexbasis);justify-content:space-evenly;margin-top:2.5rem}.weather__days--desktop{margin-top:4rem}.weather__header{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-flow:column;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:var(--w-wrapper-margin)}.weather__header button{margin-top:1.5rem}.weather__header--desktop{position:relative}.weather__header--desktop button{margin:0;position:absolute;right:0}
+.destination-header{width:100%}.destination-header__container{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center;min-height:380px;overflow:hidden;padding:0 16px;position:relative}.destination-header__image{height:100%;overflow:hidden;position:absolute;width:100%}.destination-header__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.destination-header__text{color:#fff;font-size:28px;letter-spacing:-0.95px;line-height:37.4px;max-width:488px;padding:0 20px;position:relative;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;width:100%}.destination-header__text a{color:#fff;font-weight:300;text-decoration:none}.destination-header__text--desktop{font-size:36px}.destination-header__text-container{border-bottom:solid 1px #fff;display:inline-block;line-height:1.3;padding-bottom:17px}.destination-header__text-container--desktop{padding-bottom:.75ex}.destination-header__link-page,.destination-header__advert{color:#fff;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.5px;margin-top:20px;position:relative;text-align:center}.destination-header__link-page span,.destination-header__advert span{display:block;width:100%}.destination-header__link-page--desktop,.destination-header__advert--desktop{margin-top:40px}.destination-header__link-page{left:14px;margin:0;position:absolute;text-transform:uppercase;top:20px}.destination-header__link-page--desktop{left:25px;top:36px}.destination-header__background{background-image:radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5, 36, 53, 0.37) 50%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 83%);height:100%;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.destination-header a{color:#fff;text-decoration:none}
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+.filter{display:inline-block;max-width:160px;position:relative}.filter__button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:16px;padding:16px;width:160px}.filter__content{background-color:#000;display:none;position:absolute;width:160px;z-index:1}.filter:focus .filter__content,.filter:hover .filter__content{display:block}.filter__content--open{display:block}.filter__content button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:block;font-style:italic;padding:12px 16px;text-decoration:none;width:100%}.filter__content button:hover{background-color:#494848}
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.mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media(-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 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.mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 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viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-waiting .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{-webkit-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite;-moz-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-o-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-ms-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite}@media(-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23999'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 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fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media(-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath 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.mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media(-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 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.mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 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viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-waiting .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{-webkit-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite;-moz-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-o-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-ms-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite}@media(-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23999'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 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fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media(-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath 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+                                                S422.552,280,422,280z" data-webtasks-id="87be74c6-94e1-489b"></path><path fill="#D30000" d="M206,328H90c-0.552,0-1.052-0.224-1.414-0.586S88,326.552,88,326V210c0-0.552,0.224-1.052,0.586-1.414
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+                                                S305.448,424,306,424z" data-webtasks-id="fb2e72d6-a6ee-42b7"></path><path fill="#FFBA00" d="M210,304h212c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,302.552,424,302v-92c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414
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+                                                S209.448,304,210,304z" data-webtasks-id="4381eb3b-087e-4eb0"></path></g></svg><span data-webtasks-id="cf6544a1-ec08-4e45">Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather" data-webtasks-id="d618ba72-9686-4b87"><a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather" data-webtasks-id="ba094f28-e2da-4fca"><svg class="product-icon" width="1.75em" height="1.75em" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewBox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true" data-webtasks-id="1b3a1e7f-1f6a-468a"><g data-webtasks-id="39f73b84-a6ea-4554"><path fill="#067EB3" d="M316.234,368.56l52.326-52.326c0.391-0.391,0.586-0.902,0.586-1.414c0-0.512-0.195-1.024-0.586-1.414
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+                                                C315.332,369.146,315.844,368.95,316.234,368.56z" data-webtasks-id="cd455010-5d1f-4f10"></path><path fill="#1969A6" d="M90,424h74c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S166,422.552,166,422V258c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414
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+                                                S89.448,424,90,424z" data-webtasks-id="39f74439-9b02-4f4e"></path><path fill="#149EDC" d="M258,166h164c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,164.552,424,164V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414
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+                    S209.448,304,210,304z" data-webtasks-id="ff5e3915-672e-4acd"></path></g></svg><span data-webtasks-id="7003e096-bb58-4c47">Sport</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-weather" data-webtasks-id="f81aa892-b6e5-4170"><a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather" data-webtasks-id="b28c09f2-112a-4e8e"><svg class="product-icon" width="1.75em" height="1.75em" version="1.1" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" x="0px" y="0px" viewBox="0 0 512 512" enable-background="new 0 0 512 512" xml:space="preserve" focusable="false" aria-hidden="true" data-webtasks-id="39e1dd6f-a8d9-4c64"><g data-webtasks-id="94a64c59-324e-44a4"><path fill="#067EB3" d="M316.234,368.56l52.326-52.326c0.391-0.391,0.586-0.902,0.586-1.414c0-0.512-0.195-1.024-0.586-1.414
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rectangle-image__overlay--future" data-webtasks-id="a067d266-aac8-457f"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--white rectangle-story-item__label--future" target="" rel="" id="" href="/future" data-webtasks-id="e137d68a-d0c8-424c"><span data-webtasks-id="6f6f6838-72a9-45d1">Future</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container" data-webtasks-id="6cd92283-0a0f-4068"><a href="https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20230817-the-weird-wind-that-can-supercharge-heatwaves-and-wildfire" class="rectangle-story-item__title rectangle-story-item__title--white" target="" rel="" id="" data-webtasks-id="9d0d49af-bced-444a"><h2 data-webtasks-id="e423bf7c-ad26-4d7f" style="all: unset;">The 'hairdryers' that feed wildfires</h2></a></div><div data-webtasks-id="a31b3f24-a4d7-4de3"></div></div></div><div class="swimlane__item swimlane__item--desktop swimlane__item--four-columns" data-webtasks-id="73da46bf-d0c0-4e19"><div data-bbc-container="around-the-bbc" data-bbc-title="Was Napoleon really a monster?" data-bbc-metadata="{&quot;APP&quot;:&quot;around-the-bbc&quot;,&quot;CHD&quot;:&quot;card::2&quot;}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230818-ridley-scotts-napoleon-was-the-french-leader-really-a-monster" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font" data-webtasks-id="b406eb3b-8e06-4624"><a href="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230818-ridley-scotts-napoleon-was-the-french-leader-really-a-monster" class="rectangle-story-item__title rectangle-story-item__title--white" target="" rel="" id="" data-webtasks-id="6545fa15-c57c-4db4"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture" data-webtasks-id="5270a4b2-56af-4276"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" data-webtasks-id="2d2b0332-8b02-4b69" style="background-image: url(&quot;https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/304x171/p0g7c2b6.jpg&quot;);"><picture data-webtasks-id="669e917e-ae5a-42de"><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0g7c2b6.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="6664adcb-0d74-4df0"><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0g7c2b6.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="74f3a6bf-9464-4e89"><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0g7c2b6.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="892d9fe7-f19c-4e2d"><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0g7c2b6.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="b60c60a3-8586-4334"><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0g7c2b6.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="90646a09-63db-4396"><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0g7c2b6.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="47a7e90a-a5a2-478b"><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0g7c2b6.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="ebccfd69-fb26-418f"><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0g7c2b6.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="9038fd3a-1faa-44fa"><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="Was Napoleon really a monster?" src="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0g7c2b6.jpg" alt="Was Napoleon really a monster?" id="" data-webtasks-id="f3cd7a1b-db52-44a6"></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture" data-webtasks-id="064286e3-ff79-4e84"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--white rectangle-story-item__label--culture" target="" rel="" id="" href="/culture" data-webtasks-id="26d383e8-9a99-43e2"><span data-webtasks-id="843bd784-6bdb-496d">Culture</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container" data-webtasks-id="c5747af8-c249-4bcc"><a href="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230818-ridley-scotts-napoleon-was-the-french-leader-really-a-monster" class="rectangle-story-item__title rectangle-story-item__title--white" target="" rel="" id="" data-webtasks-id="0fd84378-02c4-4409"><h2 data-webtasks-id="f0526478-ca99-4d64" style="all: unset;">Was Napoleon really a monster?</h2></a></div><div data-webtasks-id="f3665806-4177-43e1"></div></div></div><div class="swimlane__item swimlane__item--desktop swimlane__item--four-columns" data-webtasks-id="0300a6ef-f454-4f2f"><div data-bbc-container="around-the-bbc" data-bbc-title="Why TikTok can convince you to buy" data-bbc-metadata="{&quot;APP&quot;:&quot;around-the-bbc&quot;,&quot;CHD&quot;:&quot;card::3&quot;}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/worklife/article/20230818-why-are-tiktok-creators-so-good-at-making-people-buy-things" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font" data-webtasks-id="3e1c816b-3b80-4059"><a href="https://www.bbc.com/worklife/article/20230818-why-are-tiktok-creators-so-good-at-making-people-buy-things" class="rectangle-story-item__title rectangle-story-item__title--white" target="" rel="" id="" data-webtasks-id="cbd43ae7-d380-4340"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--worklife" data-webtasks-id="8a179c52-cec6-4ede"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" data-webtasks-id="453a3f30-4788-4bba" style="background-image: url(&quot;https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/304x171/p0g7hv82.jpg&quot;);"><picture data-webtasks-id="40a484fb-1e25-4432"><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0g7hv82.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="a20239fd-721d-4a69"><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0g7hv82.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="fa135aa7-0016-4042"><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0g7hv82.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="d95d2e07-b613-4930"><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0g7hv82.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="4f10c19e-0229-4187"><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0g7hv82.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="8d8010d9-9e2a-4ba1"><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0g7hv82.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="9189eefb-beb3-439f"><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0g7hv82.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="ec176283-661a-42de"><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0g7hv82.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="18057ad9-08bf-4659"><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="Why TikTok can convince you to buy" src="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0g7hv82.jpg" alt="Why TikTok can convince you to buy" id="" data-webtasks-id="678df4ea-b77d-4c03"></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--worklife" data-webtasks-id="1084af95-9ba6-4122"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--white rectangle-story-item__label--worklife" target="" rel="" id="" href="/worklife" data-webtasks-id="15cda766-ee5f-40f6"><span data-webtasks-id="f245eaa8-818e-45d7">Worklife</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container" data-webtasks-id="33d6f915-f88e-4f4f"><a href="https://www.bbc.com/worklife/article/20230818-why-are-tiktok-creators-so-good-at-making-people-buy-things" class="rectangle-story-item__title rectangle-story-item__title--white" target="" rel="" id="" data-webtasks-id="a52dbae6-240a-44b3"><h2 data-webtasks-id="8c92a77a-0975-40d6" style="all: unset;">Why TikTok can convince you to buy</h2></a></div><div data-webtasks-id="8c5c1b80-eea8-401b"></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="swimlane__background-image swimlane__background-image--desktop swimlane__background-image--atb" data-webtasks-id="3f35da15-ff5e-4a2b" style="background-image: linear-gradient(rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5) 0%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5) 100%), url(&quot;https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p099tg7y.jpg&quot;); background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: cover;"></div></div></div></main></div></div>
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Images)","synopsisShort":"Anasazi Ridge Petroglyphs, Utah","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0d97kmq.jpg","title":"Anasazi Ridge Petroglyphs, Utah","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0d97kmq","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0d97kmq.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442539}},"articles":{"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers","_id":"64a46161a471ef0d4311d4cb","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Few visitors know that London has 640km of waterways – and there's a serious movement taking place to restore these \"blue corridors\" to their former glory.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough most visitors to London think only of the River Thames, the city is a myriad of waterways. Old maps show a skein of rivers and brooks that provided \"blue corridors\" traversing the city for centuries, providing both sources of food and recreation. But as London boomed, these waterways faded from consciousness &ndash; encased by walls, turned into polluted backwaters or simply covered over to run unseen beneath busy streets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut these \"secret\" rivers are imprinted on London's geography. Marylebone started life as St Mary by the bourne (an old name for a watercourse, in this case the Tyburn); while Bayswater, Knightsbridge, Westbourne and Holborn are all named by waterways that ran through them. Deptford was the site of a deep ford over the Ravensbourne, while Wandsworth is named after the River Wandle. East Ham and West Ham get their names from an old word for an area between rivers (hamm) &ndash; in their case, the Lea and the Roding. And while Britain's leading newspapers have left Fleet Street, the River Fleet still runs beneath.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"London should really be one massive wetland &ndash; a salt marsh on an estuary,\" said Will Oliver, a development manager&nbsp;at&nbsp;Thames21, a charity helping guide 40-plus river restorations. Thanks to the organisation's efforts alongside other groups, buried rivers have returned to the light, while others are being rewilded in ways that will improve the lives and environment of millions of people, as well as provide a key boost for nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETake the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwildlifegardenersofhaggerston.org\u002F\"\u003EWildlife Gardeners of Haggerston\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who are revitalising the Old Lea river at Hackney Marshes in east London. I arrived here through traffic-swirled streets, then walked across a vast expanse of park whose principal signs of life were dozens of football pitches. But along one edge, a line of trees concealed an ancient river that felt like a piece of rural England secreted into grim London vistas. Within minutes of arriving, I was startled to have seen egrets and kingfishers swooping past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EAcross London, ongoing river restoration projects offer volunteering opportunities for visitors:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Zoological Society of London (ZSL) regularly \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.zsl.org\u002Fwhat-we-do\u002Fprojects\u002Fvolunteer-londons-rivers\"\u003Eenlist citizen scientist volunteers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to help for anything from a few hours to days in ongoing river conservation work across London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tcv.org.uk\u002Flondon\u002Freclaiming-the-riverside\u002F\"\u003EConservation Volunteers (TCV)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are looking for people to help restore a 3km blue-green corridor along the River Crane, close to Heathrow airport in West London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVarious canals also form a part of London's \"secret\" network of waterways, and\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcanalrivertrust.org.uk\u002Fvolunteer\"\u003E The Canal River Trust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have regular callouts for volunteers to carry out restoration work.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002F2023\u002F02\u002Fguest-post-volunteer-opportunities-with-haringey-water-squad-in-2023\u002F\"\u003EHaringey Water Squad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E meet weekly at various north London locations to work on waterways like the Moselle Brook.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"How to get involved","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEsther Adelman, co-founder of the Haggerston volunteer group, explained some of the key work they are doing here. \"We change the river flow and get rid of invasive habitats,\" she said, pointing to fallen trees that have been used to create partial river barriers &ndash; called berms &ndash; that add beneficial complexity to the water flow. \"This creates a variety of habitats, such as areas of gravel where fish spawn,\" said Adelman. \"We are imitating natural processes &ndash; like human beavers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGideon Corby, another Old Lea volunteer and habitat manager at the nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.biomatrixwater.com\u002Fnews\u002Ffrom-dream-to-reality-a-new-award-winning-nature-reserve-comes-to-life-in-london\u002F\"\u003EKingsland Basin Nature Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Hackney, explained how planting reeds cleans the river by drawing pollutants like phosphates and heavy metals into their roots. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EAdelman added, her voice filled with a mix of hope and quiet confidence: \"We hope eventually the Lea will become home to otters.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBetween 2020 and 2022, meanwhile,&nbsp;Thames River Trust trained around 100 citizen science volunteers to survey eels during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thamesriverstrust.org.uk\u002Fthames-catchment-community-eels-project\u002F\"\u003EThames Catchment Community Eels Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. As well as counting eels on a clutch of London's secluded backwater rivers known only really to those who live close by &ndash; like the Mole, Kennet, Pang Ravensbourne and Brent &ndash; the project worked with 22 schools to deliver workshops, plus guided riverbank walks and wades. It even created an eel-based&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Femea01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com\u002F?url=http%3A%2F%2Fthamesriverstrust.org.uk%2FeelGame%2F&amp;data=05|01||a4d4ac26f9f346135eb108db3abc096a|84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa|1|0|638168351531427872|Unknown|TWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D|3000|||&amp;sdata=YRIiuv7Jk4PeXy%2FxxieGCyPPkdR42PpL%2Bxm6c26mJFI%3D&amp;reserved=0\" target=\"_BLANK\"\u003Eonline game for children\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs part of surveying an impressive 107km of river, the volunteers recorded 119 barriers hindering eel movement &ndash; 66 previously undocumented. This has helped create strategies to support this \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Farticles\u002Fcxr4r45qe3lo\"\u003Eiconic but endangered species\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Similarly, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2021\u002F08\u002FRiver-Hogsmill-Connectivity-Project.pdf\"\u003ERiver Hogsmill Connectivity Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E spurred the removal of 17 out of 18 obstacles on this west London waterway, making it a far easier commuter route for fish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFreeing the river\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother inspiring form of restoration involves physically liberating waterways &ndash; like the Turkey Brook at Albany Park in north London, which for decades had been constrained to a narrow, ecologically hostile and dirty flow hemmed by concrete walls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We dug out the whole channel, broke the walls, and basically freed the river,\" said Michael Shorey, senior engineer for Enfield Council Watercourses Team. The result is a beautiful new wetland fed by several hundred metres of now gently babbling brook &ndash; a mini urban Eden that is home to myriad river creatures, birds, water plants and wildflowers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShorey pointed to places where the brook has created new channels and a small gravel beach. \"We wanted it to take on its own course, to naturalise,\" he said. \"But it will move, and we are going to get drone footage in coming years to see how it changes.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECreating these new wetlands also helps reduce flood risks across London, by providing areas that can naturally hold excess water from extreme rainfall increasingly linked to climate change. A key example is the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.firsfarmn21.org\u002Fvisit-to-firs-farm\u002F\"\u003EFirs Farm Wetlands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E created after \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=dZq_EZluxaw\"\u003Ethe rediscovery of Moore Brooke\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Found buried within a wilderness in a little-used park in the north London borough of Enfield, this \"lost\" tributary of Pymmes Brook &ndash; itself a tributary of the Lea &ndash; was freed by Enfield's watercourse team to create a 3,300 sq m wetland area that Shorey said has significantly reduced flood risk for thousands of people in the area. Newly planted reeds, meanwhile, have also slashed water pollution levels, with phosphate levels alone down 70%.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECommunity benefits\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELondon's river restorations are boosting wider community wellbeing too, with schools using restored banks and new wetlands for hands-on, feet-wet education. \"This was just fields before, where kids could run around &ndash; but not learn anything,\" said Shorey about Albany Park. \"Now they come down to the water to see what's going on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This was just fields before, where kids could run around – but not learn anything. Now they come down to the water to see what's going on","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESuch public benefits are an immeasurable but vital part of London's river restorations. \"The work draws so many people,\" said Caroline Woodley, Hackney Council Cabinet member for families, parks and leisure. \"It's boosting wellbeing generally through connection with nature, along with education around biodiversity and rewilding.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETake the major restorations around South London's River Wandle that saw it go from being declared biologically dead in the 1960s to becoming the first river in London to receive the EU's \"Good Ecological Potential\" tag following \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.southeastriverstrust.org\u002Fprojects\u002Fupper-wandle-restoration\u002F\"\u003Ework carried out by hundreds of SERT volunteers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Wandle's historic renown as a trout river also prompted a local \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcatchmentbasedapproach.org\u002Flearn\u002Ffish-in-the-classroom\u002F\"\u003ETrout in the Classroom programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in which local school pupils raised trout eggs for release in the river &ndash; spurring brown trout to begin breeding again in the Wandle for the first time in more than 80 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Old Lea restoration, meanwhile, has inspired innovative arts in the shape of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fsurface-tension-river-lea\u002Fsurface-tension-album\"\u003ESurface Tension\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; a Thames21 commission that saw musician and artist Rob St John create a 2015 album of music and field recordings taken along the Lea, accompanied by a book of writing and photographs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERestoration rolling on\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2022, the annual London River Week event published \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arcgis.com\u002Fapps\u002Fwebappviewer\u002Findex.html?id=83f16e964185435a8f43773e161fa635&amp;extent=-168715.6012,6565636.503,26963.1912,6828579.8803,102100s%20\"\u003Ean interactive map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that highlighted 144 spots across the city ripe for further restoration, building on the 45km of rivers restored since 2000. Projects include \u003Ca class=\"x_ContentPasted0\" title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002Fimproving-rivers\u002Frewilding-the-rom\u002F\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002Fimproving-rivers\u002Frewilding-the-rom\u002F\"\u003ERewilding The Rom\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that will reconnect&nbsp;a section of&nbsp;the natural floodplain of the river that named the East London neighbourhood of Romford, recreating&nbsp;part of its&nbsp;former expansive floodplain. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAhead of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002Fjoinacampaign\u002Flondonriversweek2023\u002F\"\u003E2023 London Rivers Week\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (29 May-4 June), a target has been set to restore and rewild a further 5km of waterway each year, which would restore one-third of London's 640km of waterways by 2050.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe effort itself is transforming the lives of those who take part, with a SERT&nbsp;study finding \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2020\u002F10\u002FLRW-River-restoration-report-Final.pdf\"\u003Ea massive 673% increase in numbers of volunteers between 2013 and 2019\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. One of those people is professional horticulturist &ndash; and Wildlife Gardener of Haggerston volunteer &ndash; Nina Hundt, who chatted to me in a break from tasks on the Old Lea. \"My whole focus has changed towards native species and nature recovery,\" she said. \"You do something good, and something good comes out of it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-15T10:21:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A new life for London's lost rivers","headlineShort":"The return of London's buried rivers","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.5072","longitude":"-0.1276","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Few visitors know that London has 640km of waterways – and there's a serious movement taking place to restore these \"blue corridors\" to their former glory.","summaryShort":"Few visitors know that London has a vast network of ancient waterways","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-14T21:23:49.197197Z","entity":"article","guid":"bb8a3a2e-b0d0-49c4-a790-016eca7b3126","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers","modifiedDateTime":"2023-06-14T23:54:25.397685Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442524},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames","_id":"64a46156a471ef2ece1ffbd2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Eel Pie Island is one of around 180 islets on the Thames, born of the river’s meandering, 184-mile path from the Cotswold hills to the North Sea.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI arrived at a pea-green footbridge to nowhere. From my vantage point on the towpath, the bridge&rsquo;s brushed-steel curves rose and dipped over the river before disappearing into a thick cluster of privet. I watched passersby stroll over. Most peeped and retreated. The more brazen continued, swallowed by the hedges into one of London&rsquo;s most fascinating enclaves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis is Eel Pie Island, one of around 180 river islets &ndash; known as &lsquo;eyots&rsquo; or &lsquo;aits&rsquo;&nbsp; &ndash; on the Thames, born of the river&rsquo;s meandering, 184-mile path from the Cotswold hills to the North Sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170808-this-single-london-address-is-home-to-many-cultures\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELondon&rsquo;s most welcoming neighbourhood?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170123-this-ordinary-town-hides-an-unopened-box-of-prophecies\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe town that predicted the world&rsquo;s end\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170526-londons-secret-underground-mail-rail\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELondon&rsquo;s secret underground mail rail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMudbanks like Chiswick Eyot, a thickly-wooded nature reserve populated by herons and Canada geese, were sculpted on the river&rsquo;s route. At high tide the tiny piece of land is swallowed whole, just a few lone branches eerily piercing the surface.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEel Pie Island, near Twickenham, was carved as the river took a detour and forged a parallel path, slicing it from the mainland. Since the 17th Century, when \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.twickenham-museum.org.uk\u002Fdetail.php?aid=152&amp;cid=1&amp;ctid=2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to a 1635 map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E there was a bowling alley on the island, it has been a haven for hedonists, music lovers and philanderers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIts seclusion &ndash; it could only be reached by boat until the footbridge was erected in 1957 &ndash; made it a dream for extra-marital affairs. Local stories say that wealthy men would bribe the ferryman not to let their wives across so they could canoodle with their mistresses undisturbed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe island is named for the eel pies sold at its 19th-Century hotel; rarely spotted now, the slippery, snake-like fish were once abundant in this part of the Thames. The inn burned down in a mysterious 1971 fire, but the decades of entertainment, from ballroom dancing and beatnik jazz to early performances by the Rolling Stones and Rod Stewart, are still spoken about in reverential tones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETrevor Baylis frequented the hotel as a teenager, lured from his home in Kilburn in north-west London by &ldquo;pretty girls and jazz music&rdquo;. Smitten by the spit of land, the inventor built a home here in 1971.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe community grew from &ldquo;just a few huts&rdquo; to around 50 homes with old hippies, young families and people &ldquo;with a special kind of spirit&rdquo;.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;We were a family then, and we&rsquo;re a family now,&rdquo; Baylis said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We were a family then, and we&rsquo;re a family now","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe footbridge led onto a narrow, shaded footpath, marked by a &lsquo;Private Island&rsquo; sign. I followed it past tumbledown cottages to a screeching, spitting, working boatyard, emerging among a cluster of ramshackle \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.eelpieislandartists.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eartists&rsquo; studios\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The walkways were cluttered with pots, wrought-iron tables and empty Champagne bottles stuffed with candles. A skeleton&rsquo;s spindly legs dangled from a birdcage overheard; dressmakers&rsquo; dummies were topped with plant-pot heads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis avant-garde display is the work of island gardener &lsquo;Twig&rsquo;, Lee Campbell explained, as we sat in the forest-green, corrugated-tin shed she shares with elderly lurcher Holly. Campbell, a landscape painter from New Zealand, has rented the studio for 17 years, but lives &ldquo;on the mainland&rdquo;.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Now and then a bunch of old hippies come staggering over, asking if the hotel is still here,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;They&rsquo;re looking for the party.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Campbell, the island&rsquo;s appeal is a tranquil space to paint. She also likes walking back over the bridge each afternoon, to &ldquo;dry land&rdquo;.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor those who live, work or accidentally visit here, Eel Pie is endlessly enthralling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELike many of the other eyots that loop along the Thames like the eyes of needles, it&rsquo;s a time capsule of land, memories and tall tales.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It&rsquo;s a time capsule of land, memories and tall tales","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBefore ship-shape \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fravensait.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERavens Ait\u003C\u002Fa\u003E became a luxury wedding venue, a dozen squatters took over for several months in 2009, claiming it should be common land. They argued that it was on this tiny islet that King John signed documents leading to the ratification of the Magna Carta. (It was actually the Treaty of Kingston, a 1217 peace treaty with France, that was signed here.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFurther west, as the river flows through Berkshire, the boldly named Magna Carta Island also contends to be where the king sealed the charter. It&rsquo;s yet to be proven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOliver&rsquo;s Island, near Kew, is named after claims that Oliver Cromwell took refuge here and built a tunnel connecting the eyot to the Bull&rsquo;s Head pub on the opposite bank. The story has been widely discredited (and no amount of digging has unearthed the tunnel).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn nearby \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.taggs-island.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaggs Island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a dusty path loops past gardens rambling with roses, lavender and bamboo canes. A sun-dappled footbridge spans the central lagoon, circled by floating homes. Boatbuilder Thomas George Tagg leased the island in the 1850s, crafting a reputation for vessels painted in bold colours and adorned with balustrades, elaborate carvings and striped awnings. Artists, writers and those with money to spare flocked to the island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFred Westcott watched with envy. Busking near Hampton Court lock, he dreamed of living by the teardrop-shaped island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EChanging his surname to Karno, he launched a circus with a troupe of then-unknown performers including Charlie Chaplin and Max Miller, and invented the custard-pie-in-face gag. Fortune made, he moved to Taggs in 1903, ensuring his was the biggest and most luxurious boat circling the land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe richly-textured tapestry of history and culture on these 180 isles, of which 30 are inhabited, deserves to be preserved and shared. Michele Whitby, who rents a houseboat moored to Eel Pie Island, is working on doing just that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhitby has been gathering oral histories from the island&rsquo;s residents for her \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.eelpiemuseum.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEel Pie Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, set to open in Twickenham by early 2018.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;The first buildings were beach huts,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;There are stories of rich businessmen spending weekends there with their mistresses.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Eel Pie residents, who are aged 17 to 70, the common thread that binds them is an \"adventurous spirit\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;This life isn&rsquo;t for everyone. Sometimes you have to wade through water to get home because the tide has risen across the bottom of the bridge,&rdquo; Whitby said. &ldquo;But our world is the real world. People either leave within a year, or leave in a wooden box.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBaylis won&rsquo;t leave any other way. At 80, the bachelor still has a spring in his shuffle. His house and studio, The Haven, is tucked down a dusty track off the main path. Entering is like diving into Mary Poppins&rsquo; carpet bag.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI was greeted by a tiny, white, stuffed cat, curled in permanent sleep on a drawing board. Beyond were higgledy-piggledy racks of tools, plastic trays overflowing with nuts and bolts and steering wheels hooked to the wall. Baylis invented the wind-up radio, and a dozen early models were dotted around the workshop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"People either leave within a year, or leave in a wooden box","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;I built the house of my dreams,&rdquo; he said, escorting me past his swimming pool to his living area. The walls were a collage of photos &ndash; a gaggle of girlfriends, posters of Audrey Hepburn (Baylis&rsquo; all-time favourite actress)&nbsp; and a picture of Nelson Mandela with the inventor, proudly holding the radio that helped educate people about the spread of HIV and Aids in Africa. The pair became &ldquo;good pals,&rdquo; Baylis told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBookshelves buckled under encyclopedias. A wine rack made with leftover piping was built into the wall. Smudged glass doors led out to the turfed terrace overlooking the river. Upstairs, Baylis sleeps surrounded by more books and under a huge poster of Audrey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETrevor&rsquo;s CV (he gave me a copy) reads like the achievements of an entire alumni. There&rsquo;s his \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Froyalcentral.co.uk\u002Fblogs\u002Finsight\u002Fa-guide-to-the-order-of-the-british-empire-21224\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOBE\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in recognition of his inventions; his career as a stunt double for Peter Cook and Dudley Moore; the fact he swam for the British National team when he was 15.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe even built a car, designed and cobbled together by hand, despite the island having no roads.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;She has about 5m on the clock,&rdquo; Baylis chuckled, sweeping a hand towards the lipstick-red motor that&rsquo;s permanently parked on his lower terrace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBlondie, a Hokkaido dog, lolled by the counter as Baylis brewed tea in his tiny kitchen. Back on the terrace, we listened to one of his wind-up radios.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn the opposite bank, a jogger appeared intermittently through the trees. A lone kayaker paddled by. Occasionally, large tourist boats pass by and guides point Baylis out as a local attraction.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA raven squawked above our heads, hopping from side to side on a branch. &ldquo;There&rsquo;s my neighbour,&rdquo; Baylis joked. Reclining and puffing on his pipe, he heaved a contented sigh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;I&rsquo;ve been a lucky guy,&rdquo; he said, eyes crinkling in a smile. &ldquo;What more could I want?&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-12-13T20:12:33Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A strange life on London’s River Thames","headlineShort":"A strange London life that few know","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Eel Pie Island is one of around 180 islets on the Thames, born of the river’s meandering, 184-mile path from the Cotswold hills to the North Sea.","summaryShort":"‘People either leave within a year, or leave in a wooden box’","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:11:38.479639Z","entity":"article","guid":"0bfa956b-170c-45e3-87f5-a094297ce336","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:21:32.071558Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442524},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods","_id":"64a46156a471ef0d5e68e90c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Angulas are astronomically expensive, up to 1,000 euros per kilo, which is strange because they don’t taste of much at all.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBaby eels are one of Spain&rsquo;s most expensive foods, but when you see them for the first time you might wonder why.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThey&rsquo;re not, to put it mildly, something that cries out to be eaten. When alive, they&rsquo;re transparent and slimy, slithering and squirming like tiny snakes. Cooked, they turn opaque and resemble limp, dead worms, except they&rsquo;re white with two tiny black dots for eyes. Hungry yet?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They&rsquo;re not something that cries out to be eaten","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut lots of delicious things are not particularly good looking; what&rsquo;s important is the taste. Here&rsquo;s where it gets strange. It&rsquo;s not that \u003Cem\u003Eangulas, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eas they&rsquo;re called in Spain, taste good or bad. They don&rsquo;t taste of much at all &ndash; which is strange because they&rsquo;re astronomically expensive, up to 1,000 euros a kilo. Even stranger still, legend has it they were once so unappreciated they were used as fodder for chickens and pigs. But then again, when it comes to eels, everything is strange.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMany Spaniards find it difficult to understand why some people are willing to pay so much for angulas, including me. As a writer and podcaster about Spanish food and culture, I&rsquo;ve always found it mystifying. Especially because the traditional recipe (\u003Cem\u003Ea la bilba&iacute;na\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) calls for frying garlic and hot peppers in lots of olive oil and then adding angulas &ndash; a sure way to overpower their mild flavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171214-the-secretive-business-of-hunting-lucifers-fingers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe seafood that fetches &euro;100 a dish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180117-in-iceland-food-is-a-challenge-not-a-meal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe planet&rsquo;s most extreme cuisine?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180108-the-truth-about-italys-white-truffles\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EItaly&rsquo;s ingenious truffle scam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf course, mystery surrounds eels, not least when it comes to their life cycle, which sounds like something out of a dark fairy tale. They live in freshwater, but can breathe through their skin and travel over land for long distances. They eat just about anything, living or dead. Then at the age of 10 or so, they swim downstream in rivers across Europe to the Atlantic Ocean and somehow (it&rsquo;s still unknown to science) they find their way to the Sargasso Sea, some 5,000km away. At depths of more than 500m &ndash; quite a feat for a creature that lives most of its life in shallow freshwater &ndash; they spawn and die, and their hatchlings drift on the Gulf Stream currents towards Europe, a journey that takes at least two years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the angulas finally arrive on Spain&rsquo;s Atlantic shores, fisherman with scoop nets are waiting for them. The season starts in November, and the best time to catch them is in the middle of the coldest, blackest, rainiest nights when the tide is strong and the water is rough and turbid. Of course.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile angulas are incredibly pricey, the first batch to go on auction every year are more expensive still. In 2016, the first lot up for sale weighed 1.25 kilos and sold for an eye-watering 5,500 euros. Wholesale. And yet the second lot, which weighed about the same, sold for a &lsquo;mere&rsquo; 1,070 euros.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo why the difference? Same baby eels, bought minutes apart, just one batch before the other. Even more curious is that both lots were bought by the same man.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When it comes to eels, everything is strange","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI tracked down the buyer, Jos&eacute; Gonzalo Hevia, who owned Casa Tista restaurant in Asturias, to ask him.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;It was a bit of marketing for my restaurant and also an homage to the fisherman,&rdquo; said Gonzalo Hevia, now retired. He was once an angula fisherman himself. &ldquo;The atmosphere at the auction is very exciting. It&rsquo;s a big media event. The next day, the name of my restaurant was in every newspaper and on every TV station.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat kind of publicity can bring in a lot of customers. &ldquo;Some of my clients came back 20 or 30 times a season to eat angulas,&rdquo; Gonzalo Hevia added. When I asked him what&rsquo;s so special about them, he said, &ldquo;It&rsquo;s the texture more than anything.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut the texture doesn&rsquo;t seem so special to me. I remember them as slippery, with a very slight crunch. Still wondering why people would pay so much for them, I visited \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Farimabasquegastronomy.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EArima\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a noted Basque restaurant in Madrid, and spoke to the head chef, Rodrigo Garc&iacute;a Fonseca.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGarc&iacute;a Fonseca, who served 3kg of them in one week this past January, also a la bilba&iacute;na\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E said, &ldquo;I wouldn&rsquo;t pay that money for them. They have no taste, no colour, nothing, not even smell. A lettuce has more aroma. But I had two guys in here that ordered half a kilo of them. Five hundred euros in one shot. Some people who have money like to spend it. Who doesn&rsquo;t like being a snob from time to time?&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENagore Irazuegi, the owner of Arima, is also from the Basque Country, where angulas are ingrained in the traditional menus of Christmas Eve, New Years and the Day of San Sebastian on 20 January. &ldquo;They&rsquo;re way overpriced, but some people like the ostentation of it,&rdquo; she said. But she is quick to add that there is more to it. &ldquo;On special feast days, it&rsquo;s just a tradition to eat them. And that ties a certain class of people together. It&rsquo;s a cultural thing. More than anything, people want to belong.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhether or not baby eels were once fed to livestock (everyone I spoke to had heard the same story, but little evidence exists), there&rsquo;s no doubt they were once the food of the working class in northern Spain. But that was back when angulas were plentiful, and therefore cheap. As angulas became scarce and prices rose, a company called Angulas Aguinaga saw an opportunity. In 1991, using surimi, a paste of processed fish, they created imitation angulas, which are called simply \u003Cem\u003Egulas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. They look almost the same, but that&rsquo;s about it. Gulas are softer and taste vaguely fishy. And yet they&rsquo;re so popular you can find them in just about any grocery shop in Spain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was a perfect storm of demand","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPart of the reason angulas are so expensive is that dams and environmental degradation have taken a toll on eel numbers, and they are now listed as critically endangered. Overfishing has also played a part. In the past, live angulas were exported to China, where they were fattened and sold as mature eels, but that has been banned since 2010. Still, a lively black market persists. In 2017, Spanish police uncovered \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lavozdegalicia.es\u002Fnoticia\u002Fmaritima\u002F2017\u002F03\u002F09\u002Fdesarticulan-red-internacional-trafico-angulas-china\u002F0003_201703G9P31993.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ean international angula-trafficking operation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that, when busted, had a stash of gold ingots, 1m euros in cash, plus 2m euros worth of live angulas headed for China.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThree-star Michelin chefs have also played a role in the price increase. Manolo Gonz&aacute;lez, an award-winning food writer and historian from San Sebastian and secretary of one of the city&rsquo;s famed gastronomic clubs, Cofrad&iacute;a del Ajo y el Perejil (The Brotherhood of the Garlic and Parsley), explains. &ldquo;When I was young, in the 1950s and 60s, we ate a lot of angulas. At that time, they were still considered too low class for a restaurant to serve, but in the &lsquo;70s, the great Basque restaurants like Arzak started to cook with them, and all of a sudden, angulas were high class.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENow they were not only scarce, they were also fashionable. It was a perfect storm of demand. Prices skyrocketed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet they remain popular. Why?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Exclusivity has always played a role in gastronomy,&rdquo; Gonz&aacute;lez explained. He likens it to buying wines that cost 5,000 euros a bottle, way beyond their true value, but worth it to some even if only to show status. While admitting that angulas don&rsquo;t taste of much, Gonz&aacute;lez does enjoy the texture. &ldquo;And for a food lover, on a special occasion, 80 euros for an appetizer isn&rsquo;t completely out of reach.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Exclusivity has always played a role in gastronomy","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile he himself doesn&rsquo;t cook with them anymore because of the high price, the taste of the classic angula recipe with oil, garlic and hot peppers still holds fond memories.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;You can make the same dish but with using spaghetti. We call it Poor Man&rsquo;s Angulas,&rdquo; he said with a touch of irony. &ldquo;Try it, you&rsquo;ll see how delicious it is!&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-03-14T13:08:02Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Why baby eels are one of Spain’s most expensive foods","headlineShort":"Spain’s most expensive delicacy?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Angulas are astronomically expensive, up to 1,000 euros per kilo, which is strange because they don’t taste of much at all.","summaryShort":"Why is it double the price of black truffles or the finest jamón?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:15:06.774465Z","entity":"article","guid":"103fb19c-a24f-457e-b5f3-f54e9daf746f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:26:07.141606Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442524},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food","_id":"64e29d0aa471ef0d62167ec3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran"],"bodyIntro":"Despite London being a global food capital, many will be surprised to learn that eels have been a locally sourced component of its table for hundreds of years.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the 1740s, pleasure boaters would jauntily sail from central London down the River Thames to an islet once known as Twickenham Ait in Richmond, mooring at an inn that had built a reputation across the city for selling just one thing: eel pies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEel Pie House was the grand tavern's name, and punting parties would drift along the shore and then congregate for merry picnics on the riverside. Inside, the inn's chefs would skin, debone and trim batches of Thames eels into three-inch chunks, before stewing them ready for pastry and the pie oven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYears later, the islet would be rechristened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames\"\u003EEel Pie Island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the eel-filled pastry's transformation from nutritious novelty to cheap, ubiquitous foodstuff was complete. Today, London's original fast food still inspires travellers to seek it out, despite the passing of hundreds of years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I met Rick Poole on a softly lit lunchtime in spring, he was considering this same history and how, at the turn of the 20th Century, the humble eel came to define his family's legacy. \"We used to have sawdust on the floor of our shops to soak up the juice from the discarded eel bones,\" he recalled. \"It was quite a horrible thing. Awful, really. And we had the sawdust right up until the late 1970s.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6r5m5"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Plate of meat pie with liquor, mash and jellied eel","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPoole is director of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.manze.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EM. Manze\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, London's oldest surviving eel and pie house &ndash; some say the oldest in the world &ndash; and great-grandson of original owner, Michele Manze. A sign outside the cafe proclaims \"Manzes will change your life!\" and the frill-free business has been serving customers since 1902. (London's first eel house was opened in 1892 by one Robert Cooke, who then sold it to his son-in-law &ndash; Michele Manze.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the 1930s, a total of 14 eel and pie shops carried the M. Manze name across London, but these days, only three remain, with the traditionally fronted building with dark green awning and Union Jack flags at 87 Tower Bridge Road the oldest survivor. And, according to its regulars, it is London's original fast food take-away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWalking into M. Manze's for the first time feels like a London from another time. Poole uses the term \"intimidating\". There are communal marble-topped tables, dark wood pew benches and distinctive green and white wall tiles. A counter is bookended by trays of self-serve cutlery and bottles of chilli vinegar on one side and a cash register on the other. From mid-morning until 18:00, and later at the weekends, staff take orders of stewed eels, jellied eels (set in viscous aspic jelly made from eel bones), and &ndash; the favourite these days &ndash; minced beef meat pies served with mash and liquor. Originally eel gravy, this \"liquor\" is now a soup-thin, seaweed-green parsley sauce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6r5lg"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Shopfront of M. Manze eel and pie house in London","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETimes, as well as tastes, have changed. During the 1970s, eels were a stock in trade of market stalls and unassuming Cockney cafes throughout south and east London, but now this time-honoured meal is dying a slow death.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We're still catering for hardcore Londoners who love the tradition, but London has gentrified and people are increasingly squeamish – they're wary of trying eel","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEel pies are no longer made or sold, and sales of both jellied and stewed eels are in steep decline. M. Manze's once processed between 60-80lb of eel per week, selling 700 boxes or portions every weekend, but demographics have changed and the business now processes and sells just a third of what it once did, with the eel now sourced from freshwater \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdiscoverloughneagh.com\u002F\"\u003ELough Neagh\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Northern Ireland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're still catering for hardcore Londoners who love the tradition, but London has gentrified and people are increasingly squeamish &ndash; they're wary of trying eel,\" said Poole.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll Londoners, once upon a time, would have eaten the ray-finned fish in some shape or form. In the Victorian era, the snake-like, catadromous fish was hawked as if a hot dog from small pushcarts laden with portable ovens. Eels were one of a few species that could survive in the heavily polluted Thames and made a cheap, filling and protein-packed substitute for meat. At its peak in the mid-19th Century, up to 500 eel sellers could be found at London's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.londonwholesalemarkets.com\u002Fbillo.html\"\u003EBillingsgate Market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which today remains the UK's largest inland fish market. In 1839, novelist Charles Dickens took the young Miss Morleena Kenwigs down the Thames for a picnic in the pages of his novel Nicholas Nickleby. Her destination? Eel Pie Island, of course.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6r5k7"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Menu and price list at M. Manze eel and pie house in London","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut even before this period, eel had always been hugely important to the city. It was the chief ingredient in 16 recipes in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gutenberg.org\u002Febooks\u002F22790\"\u003EThe Accomplisht Cook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Robert May. Published in 1660, it was the largest cookery book produced in England up to that time. And between the 11th and 14th Centuries, eels helped power London's medieval economy and the idea of accepting eel as a rent or tax payment was commonplace; more than 540,000 eels were paid as rent across England every year in the 11th Century alone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Eels were a currency for some 500 years and appear repeatedly in the Domesday Book [Britain's earliest public record], which was originally published back in 1086,\" said eel expert Philippa Nicholls. \"They've long played an important role in English life in more ways than people realise.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Nicholls is Community Eel Officer for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002F\"\u003EThames 21\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a charity working with communities to improve London's waterways for people and wildlife. And while the European eel was once commonplace in the Thames River Basin, she says it is almost invisible today because the species is critically endangered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"European eels once thrived in London's rivers, but the number of young joining the adult populations has dropped dramatically since the 1980s,\" Nicholls said. \"Data suggests the numbers arriving each year has decreased by more than 90% compared to the 1960-1979 average.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6r5jz"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Woman standing in London river for eel conservation","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis is a familiar lament in wildlife terms. Several factors have been identified as potential causes of the decline and they include the loss of habitat, pollution, barriers to migration and exploitation from commercial and recreational fishing. The European eel is also the only critically endangered species in the UK that is still fished without a licence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Historically, the eel run each April used to turn the margins of the River Thames black,\" explained Joe Pecorelli, conservation programme manager at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.zsl.org\u002F\"\u003EZoological Society of London\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"I don't think people can really imagine the number that used to migrate up the Thames.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Historically, the eel run each April used to turn the margins of the River Thames black","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESpearheading conservation efforts in recent years, both Pecorelli and Nicholls now help marshal hundreds of volunteers and citizen scientists every year as part of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thamesriverstrust.org.uk\u002Fthames-catchment-community-eels-project\u002F\"\u003EThames Catchment Community Eels Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which improves the upstream migration of the at-risk species. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo date, 18 sites &ndash; the largest elver (juvenile eel) monitoring scheme within a single catchment in the UK &ndash; have been created, and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.zsl.org\u002Fwhat-we-do\u002Fprojects\u002Feuropean-eel-conservation\"\u003E1,100 volunteers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have been enlisted to identify, assess, map and mitigate barriers to eel migration before the fish returns to the Sargasso Sea in the Atlantic Ocean where it spawns.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6r5jd"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Interior of M. Manze eel and pie house, London","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"This is a species with a serious PR problem,\" Pecorelli added. \"It's not a fluffy panda or a pangolin, but the facts don't lie: there is more illegal trade of eel than of any other creature because of the lucrative food market for it, particularly in Asia. Collectively, we need to do more to help safeguard the future of this iconic River Thames species.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETalk of what lies ahead for the eel also plays on the mind of London's last eel and pie shop proprietor back at M. Manzes. \"London is full of tradition and eels will always be part of its story,\" said Poole. \"They'll still stand up the test of time. I'm sure of it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESoon after, the early evening rush was over and the patrons had gone. The cooks and servers left soon after and the doors were locked, leaving the eel and pie shop in stasis and looking the same as it did when it first opened more than a century ago. Only the scent of pastry was left &ndash; and it lingered on the air.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-08-21T23:08:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The untold story of London's original fast food","headlineShort":"London's original fast food","image":["p0g6r5mh"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Baker pulling a tray of eel pies of out an oven","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.5072","longitude":"-0.1276","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Plate of meat pie with liquor, mash and jellied eel","promoImage":["p0g6r5m9"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20171212-a-strange-life-on-londons-river-thames","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180313-why-baby-eels-are-one-of-spains-most-expensive-foods"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Despite London being a global food capital, many will be surprised to learn that eels have been a locally sourced component of its table for hundreds of years.","summaryShort":"In Victorian times, they were sold like hotdogs","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-08-20T23:08:41.447591Z","entity":"article","guid":"157a35df-2f58-4259-b9f5-1b07e233ea25","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-20T23:08:41.447591Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230820-the-untold-story-of-londons-original-fast-food","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Flondon","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_london_europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442523},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel","_id":"64a46158a471ef2ee31fe7da","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The little Pacific island nation was the first to incorporate GPS into its aviation system – and in doing so forever changed the way we get from Point A to distant Point B.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe descent into Fiji&rsquo;s Nadi International Airport en route from Sydney is a spectacular one. After hundreds upon hundreds of kilometres of nothing but water, a string of barrier reefs announce themselves, made visible by the waves breaking against them. Then, the volcanic islands beyond them, mountainous and green and rocky all at once. Up ahead is Fiji&rsquo;s main island of Viti Levu looms, too big to take in completely, even from this distance. Twin senses of vastness and remoteness mark this first impression.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt&rsquo;s a remarkable landscape, and it&rsquo;s made even more so by the fact that it ushered aviation into the 21st Century. The airspace above the islands was the first to incorporate the Global Positioning System, or as we all commonly know it, GPS, into its aviation system. In doing so, Fiji changed forever the way we get from Point A to distant Point B.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181202-schengen-a-tiny-village-that-changed-european-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe village that changed European travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170831-canadas-vital-role-in-the-communications-revolution\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere wireless communication was born\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180923-how-france-created-the-metric-system\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow France created the metric system\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGPS was developed by the United States military in the 1970s with the intention of improving upon existing navigation procedures. At the time, flight navigation relied largely on radar and visual routing. Since the 1940s, pilots had followed routes determined by land-based &lsquo;beacons&rsquo;, either in the form of radio signals or visual markers. It was an imperfect system. In Fiji, for example, only five control towers were equipped with a radio beacon, meaning that in 80% of the country&rsquo;s huge airspace, pilots had no radar to rely on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThings were trickiest over large bodies of water. With no radio beacons at all, pilots used dead reckoning, a navigational technique that uses the last known location to estimate the current location; and celestial navigation, which references the positions of celestial bodies like the sun, moon or a planet, as they measure up with the visible horizon. Until the second half of the 20th Century, the flight crew on trans-oceanic flights often included what was known as a flight navigator, who relieved the pilot of the considerable burden of navigation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith GPS, an aircraft&rsquo;s location could be continually and precisely updated by triangulating data between the satellites and its location on Earth. In 1978, the first of an eventual 24 satellites that would complete the GPS system went into orbit, kicking off a 15-year launch project.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInitially, the US Department of Defense considered charging the public to use its GPS system. But after a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002Fonthisday\u002Fhi\u002Fdates\u002Fstories\u002Fseptember\u002F1\u002Fnewsid_2493000\u002F2493469.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKorean airliner flew off course in 1983\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and was shot down over the USSR &ndash; at the time, Soviet airspace was restricted &ndash; President Reagan announced that GPS would be made openly available with the hope of avoiding such mishaps in the future. This decision paved the way for companies to develop equipment for civilian use.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBy the end of 1990, 16 GPS satellites were in place and functional, enough for GPS to work in most cases around the world. Individual receivers were now available to the general public from companies like Trimble Navigation. They proved \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F1991\u002F02\u002F06\u002Fbusiness\u002Fbusiness-technology-war-spurs-navigation-by-satellite.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehelpful in a military capacity during the Persian Gulf War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and commercial pilots here and there were also using them unofficially. The potential of GPS was becoming apparent. But on the wider platform of commercial aviation, it needed to be tested in a controlled environment before widespread adoption could be on the table.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEnter Fiji. With its growing tourism industry increasing demand for flights within its borders, the small island nation was eager to improve its navigation system. As Norman Yee, former Civil Aviation Authority of Fiji (CAAF) chief executive officer, recalls in his memoir, Catching the Wind, a flight operations officer named Jack Snow came to work in Fiji from New Zealand around this time, bringing with him an enthusiasm for the new GPS technology. For the price of equipping just one airport with a radar-based &lsquo;beacon&rsquo;, it was estimated Fiji would be able to give every aircraft in its domestic fleet a GPS receiver.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd Fiji was well positioned to be the pioneer. For a small nation, its domestic aviation industry was well developed, with 19 commercial airfields, plus seven private airports. And with more than 300 islands spread over more than 500,000 sq km of ocean, testing could span land, sea, mountains, intense tropical weather patterns and long flight routes, all within a single airspace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFiji approached the US and its Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) to volunteer as the testing ground for GPS navigation. The FAA agreed to fund the upgrade, supplying equipment and technical support in return for the knowledge it could take away from the trial. It would take well over a year to get the system ready; in addition to the installation of the equipment, new flight routes had to be charted, manuals developed and pilots and crew trained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIlaitia Tabakaucoro was an air traffic controller at the Nadi Airport when the GPS technology was put into place. During my visit to Fiji, I met with him at the airport, where CAAF&rsquo;s headquarters are located. The main office sits next to the airport&rsquo;s traffic control tower, perhaps the first in the world to handle commercial aircraft relying on GPS.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It put us right among the big boys as far as aviation is concerned","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe remembers the first time he flew in a plane with GPS, with a couple of pilot friends heading from Nadi to a smaller island to the north-east. The plane had recently been equipped with GPS, but no-one was using it yet. They took off and followed the northern shore of Viti Levu until they reached the town of Volivoli &ndash; a visual beacon &ndash; at which point they veered left over the ocean. They waited to spot their destination island. But something was unusual with the winds that day and the plane was blown further north than expected. It became clear that they were lost up in the air. That&rsquo;s when Tabakaucoro remembered the GPS receiver and switched it on. Within minutes, they were back on track. This was a revelatory experience for a group accustomed to the old ways of navigating the skies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe 24th and final satellite came online in late 1993, and in April 1994, Fiji officially became the first country in the world to incorporate GPS into its navigation system. It immediately served the small nation well. &ldquo;We were quite excited about what we achieved,&rdquo; Yee told me. &ldquo;It put us right among the big boys as far as aviation is concerned.&rdquo; It was a boon to the country&rsquo;s flourishing tourism industry, as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFiji proved that GPS could improve aviation in myriad ways, making it faster, more efficient and safer. In the quarter century since Fiji adopted GPS navigation for its domestic flights, the technology has been adopted around the globe, often with the direct help of Fiji&rsquo;s new experts.&nbsp;There are also 31 satellites, with most of the original 24 having been retired and replaced.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWeather is no longer the hindrance it once was. &ldquo;Before, the tendency was to return [to the originating airport] when you hit bad weather,&rdquo; Tabakaucoro said. &ldquo;GPS ensured you&rsquo;d get to the destination.&rdquo; Even in a storm. Even with terrible visibility.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPlanes can now fly for hours over ocean with precise navigation, and more aircraft can safely be in the air at any given time. Instead of 100 miles between any two aircraft flying in the same direction, the officials at CAAF told me, international regulations now require just 23. A plane once had to fly 18 minutes behind the plane ahead of it. Today, that number has been reduced to 10. In addition, flight times have shortened since planes can now fly directly to a destination rather than from beacon to beacon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBefore GPS, aircraft were required to fly with enough fuel for a return trip in the event of being unable to land at their destination. After GPS made such a precaution unnecessary, they were able to lose that extra load. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fdgca.gov.in\u002Fintradgca\u002Fintra\u002Ficaodocs\u002FCir%20267%20-%20Guidelines%20for%20GNSS%201996%20(En).pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA UN report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from 1996 concluded that the increased fuel efficiency meant that the GPS receivers in Fiji paid for themselves in just three months.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor all of our complaints about contemporary airports and flying, it might be a comfort to remember that thanks to the little Pacific island nation of Fiji, we are actually getting to our destinations faster and more safely than ever before.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fplaces-that-changed-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPlaces That Changed the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series looking into how a destination has made a significant impact on the entire planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-03-04T20:25:56Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"How Fiji changed the way we travel","headlineShort":"How Fiji changed the way we travel","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The little Pacific island nation was the first to incorporate GPS into its aviation system – and in doing so forever changed the way we get from Point A to distant Point B.","summaryShort":"It ushered aviation into the 21st Century","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:29:53.731264Z","entity":"article","guid":"48d459ec-deb5-4e4c-8e0d-abfa7521b53c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:45:12.999296Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442525},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230811-message-sticks-australias-ancient-unwritten-language":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230811-message-sticks-australias-ancient-unwritten-language","_id":"64d651d2a471ef2ed1049ea9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Used over several thousand years, these engraved sticks hold the memory of the world's oldest continuous living culture, but few today can understand their meaning.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe continent of Australia is home to more than \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faiatsis.gov.au\u002Fexplore\u002Flanguages-alive#:~:text=In%20Australia%20there%20are%20more,to%20Country%2C%20culture%20and%20ancestors.&amp;text=The%20land%20actually%20gave%20birth%20to%20our%20language.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E250 spoken Indigenous languages\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and 800 dialects. Yet, one of its linguistic cornerstones wasn't spoken, but carved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKnown as message sticks, these flat, rounded and oblong pieces of wood were etched with ornate images on both sides that conveyed important messages and held the stories of the continent's Aboriginal people &ndash; considered \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220126-is-the-pilbara-the-oldest-place-on-earth#:~:text=In%20recent%20years%2C%20science%20has,the%20oldest%20places%20on%20Earth.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe world's oldest continuous living culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Message sticks are believed to be thousands of years old and were typically carried by messengers over long distances to reinforce oral histories or deliver news between Aboriginal nations or language groups.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe motifs imprinted on each stick could signify news of war, death, peace, marriage and more. For people like oral historian Dr Lorina Barker, a descendant of the Wangkumara and Muruwari Indigenous people of Australia, these message sticks carry a meaningful connection to their roots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230811-message-sticks-australias-ancient-unwritten-language-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoTitle":"VIDEO: The secrets in a 130-year-old message stick","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230811-message-sticks-australias-ancient-unwritten-language-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany of Australia's surviving message sticks are now encased in glass displays in places like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faustralian.museum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Australian Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Sydney, yet much of their information remains undecipherable by people today. According to linguistic anthropologist Piers Kelly, \"Little in the way of significant new research on message sticks was published in the 20th Century\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo decode the inscriptions, it is necessary to enlist the help of Indigenous elders, who understand depictions that may be particular to a certain group, location or idea. Without their help, future generations may lose a link to this valuable relic of their roots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor more on this and other stories, watch&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcselect.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC Select\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230811-message-sticks-australias-ancient-unwritten-language-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-08-13T15:16:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Message sticks: Australia's ancient unwritten language","headlineShort":"Australia's first messaging system","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aboriginal elder and three young men hunting with spears","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-33.874266","longitude":"151.2125133","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Aboriginal elder and three young men hunting with spears","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Used over several thousand years, these engraved sticks hold the memory of the world's oldest continuous living culture, but few today can understand their meaning.","summaryShort":"It holds the memory of a continent, but few still understand its meaning","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-08-11T15:20:33.751904Z","entity":"article","guid":"892a4730-b92f-4245-9837-295a691491da","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230811-message-sticks-australias-ancient-unwritten-language","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-14T18:11:24.32554Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230811-message-sticks-australias-ancient-unwritten-language","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442525},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place","_id":"64bf024ba471ef2ed22c8fb0","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fellie-cobb"],"bodyIntro":"Tasmania's wukalina Walk is much more than a tourism product. It's a vehicle for Aboriginal empowerment, cultural strength and reconnection – and a chance for visitors to learn.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Go and pick a piece of kelp that speaks to you,\" said Janice, a palawa (Tasmanian Aboriginal) woman and cultural storyteller on our tour. She pointed to a bucket full of thick, blubbery bull kelp we'd collected off the beach that morning to make baskets for carrying water. Meanwhile, Jam, our main guide, reverentially placed leaves and branches from a black peppermint gum tree on the fire embers as he prepared a smoking ceremony to welcome us to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faiatsis.gov.au\u002Fexplore\u002Fwelcome-country\"\u003ECountry\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Around us, some young Aboriginal men were lounging around the firepit, carving spears out of branches.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESitting at our camp, deep in the coastal bush of Australia's island-state of lutruwita (Tasmania), I realised I couldn't have asked for a more powerful or authentic introduction to palawa culture &ndash; and what was even more surprising is that many people think that the culture doesn't even exist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI was on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wukalinawalk.com.au\u002F\"\u003Ewukalina Walk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a four-day Indigenous-guided walk along Tasmania's north-east coast that every visitor to Australia &shy;&shy;&ndash; and likely every Australian &ndash; should experience. Although the hike is along one Australia's most beautiful stretches of coastlines, wukalina Walk is much more than a tourism product with magnificent scenery. This utterly unique hike operates on a deeper level, taking visitors into the island's darkest history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g243nr"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Deserted beach with bush behind in Bay of Fires, Tasmania","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETasmania was the site of some of the most brutal conflicts in the country. The British arrived in 1803, setting up a penal colony on the island and decimating the palawa population through disease, dispossession and violence. The colonisers forced the remaining Tasmanian Aboriginals onto missions, where most died, and rounded others up onto a reserve on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.findandconnect.gov.au\u002Fref\u002Ftas\u002Fbiogs\u002FTE00093b.htm\"\u003ECape Barron Island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the Furneaux Islands just off Tasmania's north-east coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003ENot only was their population decimated due to the devastating effects of colonisation, but palawa languages were also outlawed. However, over the last 30 years, it has been arduously rebuilt and revived by the palawa community with the help of linguistic experts. Today, the burgeoning language palawa kani&nbsp;(which means \"Tasmanian Aborigines speak\") is increasingly being used and taught by the community. Find out more \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ftacinc.com.au\u002Fprograms\u002Fpalawa-kani\u002F\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Reclaiming a language","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUntil recently, it was taught in schools throughout Australia that there were no Aboriginal people left in Tasmania &ndash; that the last one, Trukanini, had died in 1876. But the truth is that the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture\"\u003Epalawa people survived the cultural genocide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and have had a continuous link to this stretch of coastline for tens of thousands of years, even if the government \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dpac.tas.gov.au\u002Fdivisions\u002Fpolicy\u002Fconstitutional_recognition_of_tasmanian_aboriginal_people\"\u003Eonly officially recognised Aboriginal people as Tasmania's First People in 1996\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"One thing we're really good at on this walk is dispelling myths,\" Jam said. \"One of the myths is that we don't exist. But it's very obvious when you come on an Aboriginal walk, being guided by Aboriginal people, that you're tapping into that culture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was hard to fathom this brutal history when we'd started our hike the previous day at the eponymous wukalina, the palawa name for Mount William, a hill that seemed higher than its humble 216m in this flat land. As our group of six hikers ascended, we walked past kunzea bushes, fragrant with cottonwool-like flowers, and black peppermint gums swaying in the breeze. Soft sponges of creamy coral lichen bordered the track.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g243n7"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"View of Cape Barren Island from the Tasmanian mainland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWukalina is a place of immense importance to palawa, and Jam gently wove stories into the landscape as we walked, telling tales passed down from his Elders. It was one thing to walk under the massive black peppermint gums, but another to learn that these trees were central to the palawa kinship system and funerary practices; or that they were so-named by the British colonisers for the black fire scars on their trunks, a result of the cultural burning that palawa used to sustainably manage the land.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The walk is grounded in authenticity and culture as our bloodlines extend so deep through this place,\" said Jam. \"Up here as north-eastern people, [these trees] are our family; they link us to the afterlife.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The walk is grounded in authenticity and culture as our bloodlines extend so deep through this place","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen we reached the summit, scrambling over protruding tree roots and giant granite rocks, we could just make out the dusty blue hills of Cape Barren Island, or truwana as it's called in palawa kani, in the distance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Truwana has been a stronghold of our culture for quite a few generations,\" said Jam, explaining that not only was the reserve located on truwana, but many Aboriginal women, who were master seal hunters, were taken as slaves and put to work on the islands catching seals. Aboriginal resistance fighters would light fires on this summit to send messages to them, he said, burning the kunzea shrubs we'd walked past and using smoke signals to let the women know if the colonisers were sailing back up the coast from Hobart. \"For a while it was the only communication they had with their people,\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g243mg"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Photo of palawa Elder Clyde Mansell","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, Cape Barren and the other Furneaux Islands are a hub for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theorb.tas.gov.au\u002Fliving-cultures\u002Fmuttonbirding\"\u003Emuttonbirding\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an important cultural practice for Tasmanian Aboriginal people that involves the harvesting of short-tailed shearwater chicks for food, oil and feathers every March\u002FApril. Jam was there last year, he told us, longingly, and another of wukalina's main guides, Carleeta, was muttonbirding on Cape Barren right now.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd this is exactly why the walk takes place here, on Tasmania's north-east coast. Walking alongside Aboriginal guides through their cultural heartland, with Cape Barren Island shimmering on the horizon, makes it clear &ndash; beyond anything you could read &ndash; that this is a living culture that resisted and survived. And that's probably the most important thing about wukalina Walk: although history is an integral part of the experience, it's as much about the lives of palawa today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile the walk has been operating for five years &ndash; and in that time has won a swathe of awards, including winning gold at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.qualitytourismaustralia.com\u002Faustralian-tourism-awards\u002F2022-australian-tourism-awards-winners\u002F\"\u003E2022 Australian Tourism Awards\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; the project was 15 years in the making. In fact, it only exists due to the vision of Clyde Mansell, a palawa Elder and the former chairman of the Tasmanian Aboriginal Land Council, who had the idea of a tourism product that would empower, reconnect and strengthen Tasmania's Aboriginal community. Having been involved in Aboriginal land rights since the 1970s, it would be a chance, he thought, for palawa to share their story in the right way and in the right place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's about telling our story the way we want it told,\" he said, noting that wukalina is the first tourism product in Australia to be designed, owned and guided by the Aboriginal community. \"I always felt that if we could develop something where we could take people on Country, then the interpretation would be much easier.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g243mb"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Sleeping cabins at krakani lumi, wukalina Walk, Tasmania","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMansell was especially keen to get the next generation of Aboriginal people involved to ensure that cultural knowledge would be passed on. \"I wanted the younger people to tell those stories,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat was something I was honoured to see first-hand. After descending wukalina, we trekked through endless bush, guided by the sound of the ocean. We brushed past elegant grass trees and over hardy tussocks of button grass, stopping to admire pops of colour in scarlet common heath flowers, yellow-coned banksias and tiny red carnivorous sundews. After several hours of walking, our camp for the next two nights, krakani lumi (meaning \"place of rest\"), was a welcome sight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHere, we were met by several young Aboriginal men who had come for training, to both learn the ropes of running a tourism project &shy;&ndash; that night preparing a feast of scallops and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210228-who-were-the-worlds-first-bakers\"\u003Edamper\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, muttonbird and potato salad &ndash; but also to listen to the traditional stories and learn how to safely share cultural knowledge. Watching the more experienced guides like Jam, who has been guiding at wukalina for three years, give advice on the best way to throw a spear or summoning one of the lads over to listen as he told yarns around the fire, were among the trip's most powerful moments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We're all trying to benefit and uplift each other and share knowledge and skills. And that really comes from surviving genocide","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThey're still powerful moments for Jam too, despite having led hundreds of walks. When I asked him what he's proudest of, he said: \"I think it's seeing the young fellas step in and stand up a bit straighter and puff their chest out a bit stronger.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g243kd"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Palawa guide holding kelp on Tasmanian beach","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJam explained that while some stay on as guides at wukalina, others use that cultural knowledge to move into Aboriginal divisions within the National Parks System or into Tasmanian Aboriginal Heritage Officer training. \"We'll see a lot of them step out into other areas and be more proud and more strong,\" he said. \"That's a really powerful part of our community: we're all trying to benefit and uplift each other and share knowledge and skills. And that really comes from surviving genocide.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDay two of the tour is a rest day, and for us it started with an impromptu yoga class led by Travis, one of the trainees, who pulled out hilarious made-up poses like the one-legged emu and the flapping muttonbird. Around us at the architecturally designed camp &shy;&shy;&ndash; a modern representation of the domed structures that palawa used to live in &ndash; other young men were launching their newly carved spears into the grass trees and discussing throwing techniques. It was also the day of the smoking ceremony and kelp basket making, but a highlight was the short meander along the beach to a \"cultural living site\" behind a sand dune &ndash; a gathering place where Aboriginal groups would have congregated over many thousands of years, leaving behind shells and bones as evidence of their presence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Please don't call it a midden,\" Jam said, referring to the term often used to describe these sites. \"That's a Gaelic word for a rubbish dump.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe energy here was palpable, and we were all quiet as we carefully explored. \"Actually being on Country and hearing the stories on Country where they originated is really beautiful,\" Laura Walker, who had travelled from New South Wales with her husband for the walk, later told me. \"You can read all the books in the world, but experiencing it makes such a big difference.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g243cj"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Granite rocks and orange lichen in Tasmania's Bay of Fires","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe third day of wukalina involves walking 17km along the beach, past granite headlands smothered in orange lichen, along deserted white-sand beaches framed by crashing ocean waves and towards the lighthouse that marks Tasmania's most easterly point: Larapuna, or Eddystone Point. This piece of land was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnla.gov.au\u002Fnla.obj-1863973690\u002Fview\"\u003Ereturned to the palawa community in 2006\u003C\u002Fa\u003E due to its cultural significance &shy;&ndash; though only on a 40-year lease. Wind bellowed up the beach and an albatross soared effortlessly above the ocean. At one point, Jam led us into the surrounding scrub and pointed out various edible plants and berries. All I could see were bare trees and bushes, but to Jam, this was a veritable smorgasbord.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"One of the best things about the tour is getting a much deeper understanding of how incredibly engaged with the landscape the Aboriginal people here were,\" said Amelie Hudspeth, another hiker in our group.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"One of the best things about the tour is getting a much deeper understanding of how incredibly engaged with the landscape the Aboriginal people here were","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, much of the walk is focussed on caring for the land as the Tasmanian Aboriginals have done for tens of thousands of years. During the four-day trip, Jam, who is about to graduate in marine biology and Antarctic ecology from The&nbsp;University&nbsp;of&nbsp;Tasmania, touched on a plethora of related topics, from the biodiversity crisis to Indigenous land management to climate change. From a bluff near the lighthouse, he pointed out the decimated giant kelp forests on Tasmania's eastern coast whose decline has literally changed the shape of the coastline. \"We need to shift the way we think globally as a people to be more in tune with the landscape,\" he said. \"And by sharing these stories, we're doing that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2438y"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Palawa guide Jamie Graham-Blair standing in front of sign at larapuna\u002FEddystone Point","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs we neared our end point &ndash; a 19th-Century lighthouse that was built by convicts on top of another cultural living site &ndash; my mind was overflowing with thoughts of a more sustainable way of living; of the brutality of colonisation and the devastation it still wreaks; and of the fortitude of the palawa community that has retained its culture against adversity. And that's exactly where wukalina Walk wants to take you: to a place of education and, ultimately, allyship.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We try and fit in as much as possible because we see it as a really valuable method of connection, \" Jam said. \"That being said, we are trying to fit 50,000 years of history in, so we can't cover it all.\"\u003Cspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"[The walk] is the start of your journey, it's not the end,\" he added. \"We want you to take in as much as you can, but then go forth and keep connecting and learning.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place-22"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-24T10:13:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The hike making Australia a better place","headlineShort":"The forgotten people of a remote isle","image":["p0g243pn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hiker on beach in Bay of Fires, north-east Tasmania","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-41.1400","longitude":"148.3000","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Hiker on beach in Bay of Fires, north-east Tasmania","promoImage":["p0g243pn"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Tasmania's wukalina Walk is much more than a tourism product. It's a vehicle for Aboriginal empowerment, cultural strength and reconnection – and a chance for visitors to learn.","summaryShort":"Many people think that the culture doesn't even exist","tag":["tag\u002Fhiking","tag\u002Fregenerative-tourism","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-23T20:14:04.866567Z","entity":"article","guid":"420baf78-09de-4ed6-8432-bd64f631ef22","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place","modifiedDateTime":"2023-07-31T04:32:37.593543Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442537,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ftasmania","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia-and-pacific"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_australia_tasmania_australia-and-pacific_australia_australia-and-pacific"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-did-australias-boomerangs-pave-the-way-for-flight":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-did-australias-boomerangs-pave-the-way-for-flight","_id":"64df74d9a471ef0d4311d69c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnylah-lee"],"bodyIntro":"Likely developed 10,000 years ago by Aboriginal Australians, boomerangs may contain the design invention that makes flight possible.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe aircraft is one of the most significant developments of modern society, enabling people, goods and ideas to fly around the world far more efficiently than ever before. The first successful piloted flight took off in 1903 in North Carolina, but a 10,000-year-old hunting tool likely developed by Aboriginal Australians may have held the key to its lift-off.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-did-australias-boomerangs-pave-the-way-for-flight-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoTitle":"VIDEO: Was the boomerang the first aerofoil?","videoUrn":["p0g47b4f"],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-did-australias-boomerangs-pave-the-way-for-flight-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs early aviators discovered, the secret to flight is balancing the flow of air. Therefore, an aircraft's wings, tail or propeller blades are often shaped in a specially designed, curved manner called an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftechnology\u002Fairfoil\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaerofoil\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that lifts the plane up and allows it to drag or turn to the side as it moves through the air. &nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor many years, scholars couldn't figure out \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faustralian.museum\u002Flearn\u002Fcultures\u002Fatsi-collection\u002Fboomerangs\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehow, exactly, a boomerang flew\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Yet, in the last 50 years, scientists have realised that boomerangs are designed in a similar aerofoil manner as aeroplane wings, with each side or \"wing\" of a boomerang curved to give it aerodynamic lift. Therefore, whether intentional or not, the boomerang may have been a pivotal Indigenous predecessor to modern flight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor more on this and other stories, watch&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcselect.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC Select\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-did-australias-boomerangs-pave-the-way-for-flight-2"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ftravel-videos","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-08-20T13:39:55Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Did Australia's boomerangs pave the way for flight?","headlineShort":"The 10,000-year-old secret of flight","image":["p0g6w7bs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Man holding a boomerang","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-25.2744","longitude":"133.7751","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Man holding a boomerang","promoImage":["p0g6w7bs"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190303-how-fiji-changed-the-way-we-travel","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230811-message-sticks-australias-ancient-unwritten-language","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230723-the-hike-making-australia-a-better-place"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Likely developed 10,000 years ago by Aboriginal Australians, boomerangs may contain the design invention that makes flight possible.","summaryShort":"The science behind it may have been invented by Aboriginal Australians","tag":["tag\u002Fheritage","tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-08-18T13:40:24.826598Z","entity":"article","guid":"e178c63a-ac19-4d49-bf1b-7af0b7562895","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-did-australias-boomerangs-pave-the-way-for-flight","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-18T13:40:24.826598Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-did-australias-boomerangs-pave-the-way-for-flight","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia-and-pacific"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_australia_australia-and-pacific","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442524},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world","_id":"64a46156a471ef0d4d3b9a07","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Not only is the history of yoghurt tied to Bulgaria, but Bulgaria's history and identity can be traced through its production.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn Bulgaria, yoghurt is everywhere. You&rsquo;ll find it dolloped on falafel wraps, slathered on moussaka and lined up in supermarket refrigerators. It is the basis of traditional Bulgarian dishes such as \u003Cem\u003Etarator\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a cold soup made of yoghurt, water, cucumber, walnuts and herbs; and \u003Cem\u003Esnezhanka,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a salad consisting of yoghurt, cucumbers, garlic and dill. People sip yoghurt drinks in the streets and dip fried courgette slices into yoghurt in eateries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;We put yoghurt on everything,&rdquo; Sofia native Nikola Stoykov told me. &ldquo;I eat three pots a day. One in the morning, one as a snack during the day and one before I go to bed at night.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170605-lebanons-rare-cheese-made-in-jars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe ancient cheese that&rsquo;s disappearing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171211-who-invented-hummus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy is hummus controversial?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171011-the-ancient-condiment-that-came-back-from-the-dead\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe comeback of a 2,000-year-old sauce\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYoghurt has a long history in this country. Many Bulgarians claim it was accidentally discovered here around 4,000 years ago when nomadic tribes roamed the land. The nomads carried their milk in animal skins, creating a ripe environment for bacteria to grow and cause fermentation, producing yoghurt. In all likelihood, yoghurt was discovered in this way in different places at different times, and probably originated in the Middle East and Central Asia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, as Elitsa Stoilova, assistant professor of ethnology at the University of Plovdiv, confirmed, &ldquo;It&rsquo;s true that yoghurt was part of people&rsquo;s diet for centuries in the Balkan lands. It&rsquo;s a natural process that people discovered somehow&hellip; Indeed, the Balkans is one of the many places in the world which has the specific bacteria and temperature ranges needed to naturally produce yoghurt.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWherever it was discovered, what we do know is that Bulgaria played a vital role in introducing yoghurt to the West and turning it into the popular, commercial product we know today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a Bulgarian scientist who first broke down the composition of yoghurt. Shortly after his wedding in 1904, Dr Stamen Grigorov returned from the region of Trun in Bulgaria to the Medical University of Geneva, where he was studying. He brought a traditional clay pot, called a \u003Cem\u003Erukatka,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E containing homemade yoghurt back to his lab to examine as part of his studies. A year later, he had identified the essential bacterium that caused milk to ferment and turn into yoghurt. The microorganism became known as \u003Cem\u003Elactobacillus bulgaricus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E as a nod towards the country of yoghurt-eaters, forever linking the Bulgarian nation to yoghurt production. In honour of his discovery, the Trun village of Studen Izvor, where Grigorov was born, now houses \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbulgariatravel.org\u002Fen\u002Fobject\u002F1034\u002F%D7%9E%D7%95%D7%96%D7%99%D7%90%D7%95%D7%9F%20%D7%94%D7%99%D7%95%D7%92%D7%95%D7%A8%D7%98\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe only yoghurt museum in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We put yoghurt on everything","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen we think of yoghurt now, we think of Turkish, Greek or even Icelandic yoghurt. But in the 1920s and &lsquo;30s, due to the scientific community&rsquo;s focus on Grigorov&rsquo;s original sample, Bulgarian yoghurt was in vogue. Grigorov&rsquo;s work detailing the exact composition of yoghurt was picked up by Russian biologist and Nobel Prize-winner &Eacute;lie Metchnikoff. In his 1908 book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002Fdp\u002FB01DFOWKAK\u002Fref=dp-kindle-redirect?_encoding=UTF8&amp;btkr=1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Prolongation of Life\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Metchnikoff established a link between Bulgarian peasants consuming a lot of yoghurt and living very long lives. Indeed, Bulgaria&rsquo;s Rhodope Mountains \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.independent.co.uk\u002Farts-entertainment\u002Fgreat-uncle-bulgarias-secret-1340147.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehave been recorded\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as holding one of the highest concentrations of centenarians in Europe. This idea that yoghurt prolongs life fuelled a health craze in European countries such France, Switzerland, Germany, Spain and Great Britain, incorporating the previously little-known food into the Western European diet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut this new demand for Bulgarian yoghurt fundamentally changed the product. Bulgarian yoghurt was previously made at home, by women, using measurements based on sight. When scientists and manufacturers took over the process, they introduced strict measurements, specialist equipment and &lsquo;pure cultures&rsquo; that excluded any additional microflora found naturally in homemade yoghurt. Production on a bigger scale, in lands where the lactobacillus bulgaricus did not thrive so well, led to the use of dried starter cultures and cow&rsquo;s milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Traditional yoghurts were produced with different types of raw milk, such as buffalo and sheep milk, depending on the area or time of year. Nowadays, we link yoghurt with cow&rsquo;s milk, which is a result of the industrialisation of the product,&rdquo; Stoilova explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWithin Bulgaria, although many people continued the tradition of making yoghurt at home, the state takeover of the dairy industry in 1949 led to further changes. Yoghurt became a national icon, something to differentiate Bulgaria from the rest of the Soviet bloc. But since yoghurt was made in different Bulgarian regions and households &ndash; not to mention abroad &ndash; the state had to create one &lsquo;authentic&rsquo; Bulgarian yoghurt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo do this, microbiologists travelled up and down the country collecting samples of homemade yoghurt from women&rsquo;s rukatkas, and then conducted experiments to select strains that were most beneficial in terms of health as well as taste. Thus a new, official Bulgarian yoghurt was born, which the state patented, promoted and exported. To this day, the state-owned company \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Flbbulgaricum.bg\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELB Bulgaricum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E continues to hold and licence its patent to countries such as Japan and South Korea, where Bulgarian yoghurt, virtually unknown until about 35 years ago, is now extremely popular. Interestingly, because the unique blend of bacteria native to Bulgaria cannot be reproduced in other countries, these Asian companies must continuously import new starter cultures to create their version of Bulgarian yoghurt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESince the death of Metchnikoff, and the fall of communism in 1989, Bulgaria has lost the main promoters of its yoghurt, which explains why it is not as famous in Europe as it once was. However, the tradition of yoghurt-making continues within Bulgaria &ndash; and is experiencing a revival. During the communist era, the number of producers decreased from 3,000 small dairies to just 28 regional centres. Now, there is a rebirth of smaller, local producers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of these is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fharmonica.bg\u002Fen\u002Fproducts\u002Fdairy\u002Fyogurt\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHarmonica\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which produces Bulgaria&rsquo;s only certified organic yoghurt. When I visited their dairy just outside Sofia, technologist Toma Georgiev Bayatev showed me how raw, organic cow&rsquo;s milk is transformed into yoghurt. The modern process follows similar steps to the homemade process first described by Grigorov back in 1905; the milk is tested, pasteurised at 96C, then cooled down to 43.5C when the starter culture is added and left to ferment the milk for about six hours. After this, the yoghurt it is refrigerated and packaged, ready to eat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Yoghurt is an intimate product linked to the land, the animals and the particular taste of the family","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I tasted the resulting yoghurt, it was sour and particularly dense, with a creamy film on top. It wasn&rsquo;t as smooth as the yoghurts I am accustomed to; its grainy texture was due to the fact that it was made with non-homogenised milk. It was refreshing to taste something so different.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;The authenticity of Bulgarian yoghurt lies in its variety, not in one standardised product. If two grandmothers in different villages make yoghurt from the same products, the results will taste different. This is because yoghurt is an intimate product. It is linked to the land, the animals and the particular taste of the family, and the knowledge of it is passed down from generation to generation,&rdquo; Stoilova said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough there is not as much variety in Bulgarian yoghurt as there once was, the vibrant traditions of yoghurt-making still exists. An informal network of yoghurt makers offer their products in guesthouses and restaurants in villages and small towns, and along roadsides throughout the country. Moreover, the intimate knowledge and connection to the food is still very much alive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs Stoykov, who eats three pots of the stuff a day, told me: &ldquo;As a kid, my grandmother used to mix yoghurt with fruit jam and call it &lsquo;ice-cream&rsquo; because it was a much healthier option than eating an actual ice-cream. That's how I got tricked into eating yoghurt, and it became a habit. I am aware of all its health benefits, but that's not the reason why I eat it so much. It's basically part of the Bulgarian lifestyle.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-01-11T18:52:34Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The country that brought yoghurt to the world","headlineShort":"A 4,000-year-old yoghurt","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Not only is the history of yoghurt tied to Bulgaria, but Bulgaria's history and identity can be traced through its production.","summaryShort":"There’s a reason the bacteria in yoghurt is named ‘lactobacillus bulgaricus’","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:12:35.481009Z","entity":"article","guid":"a54f1b73-f4eb-4c8c-978b-73181f784018","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:22:46.684558Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442525},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-a-layered-dish-of-bread-and-yoghurt":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-a-layered-dish-of-bread-and-yoghurt","_id":"64a46161a471ef0d5126dfb1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"It's a great contrast of textures, with crispy toasted pita, smooth yoghurt, crunchy pine nuts, juicy chicken and chickpeas, and is the perfect dish for Ramadan and Eid.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOf all the traditional meals found in Lebanon, \u003Cem\u003Efatteh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a layered dish of poached meat or chicken, chickpeas, toasted pita bread and garlic yoghurt topped with pine nuts, might be the simplest to prepare &ndash; and one of the tastiest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFatteh has a long history in Middle Eastern culture, appearing to originate in Egypt and later in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fplace\u002FLevant\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELevant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. There are endless ways to make it across the region &ndash; such as with or without tomato sauce, adding sheep trotters, layering in small stuffed eggplant &ndash; but no matter what, fatteh traditionally uses up day-old flatbread and is soaked in broth or yoghurt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Chicken and chickpea fatteh with yoghurt recipe\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's possible that fatteh evolved from a Pharaonic dish called \u003Cem\u003Efotat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which in Arabic means crumbs, or small pieces. The dish also shares similarities with \u003Cem\u003Etharid\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, said to be the Prophet Mohamed's favourite dish, which is made with thin, toasted bread that's covered with broth, meat and vegetables.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.anissas.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAnissa Helou\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Lebanese chef and cookbook author who won the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theworlds50best.com\u002Fmena\u002Fen\u002Fawards\u002Ficon-award.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFoodics Icon Award\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as part of Middle East &amp; North Africa's 50 Best Restaurants 2023, \"If you follow the notion and concept of the dish, it ties in with tharid, considering it's multi layered.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFatteh has long been a convivial dish. It was served during the Fatimid Caliphate in Egypt from 969-1171 CE, when rulers would provide street feasts for Eid al-Fitr, the Islamic event marking the end of a month of fasting during Ramadan. It was also \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.196flavors.com\u002Ffatteh\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eeaten regularly at great banquets\u003C\u002Fa\u003E held by the heads of state during the Ottoman Empire in the 15th and 16th Centuries. Now, it's considered a staple dish for \u003Cem\u003Eiftar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the meal eaten by Muslims to break their daily fast during Ramadan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-a-layered-dish-of-bread-and-yoghurt-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-a-layered-dish-of-bread-and-yoghurt-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor her take on the dish, Helou prepares a classic Lebanese version, which she learned to make from her mother 30 years ago. She said her recipe &ndash; which appeared in her first cookbook, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.anissas.com\u002Fbooks\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELebanese Cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; is typical for the Maronite Christians in the mountains of Lebanon where she is from. She noted that even within Lebanon the dish varies from the south to the north. Nevertheless, in each household it marks an important place on the table.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Fatteh is a very important dish in the Lebanese repertoire&hellip; and for me, fatteh is a great dinner party dish,\" Helou said. \"You can prepare everything ahead of time and just assemble it at the last minute.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHelou's fatteh recipe starts with a base layer of toasted pita bread, topped with chicken and chickpeas, a ladle of broth, then a minced garlic yoghurt mixed with tahini, which adds more body and a nutty flavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe final dish gives a great contrast of textures, with crispy toasted pita, smooth yoghurt, crunchy pine nuts, juicy meat and chickpeas. A vegetarian version is also simple to make, using \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-with-aubergines-and-mint\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaubergine instead of meat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-a-layered-dish-of-bread-and-yoghurt-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-a-layered-dish-of-bread-and-yoghurt-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Chicken and chickpea fatteh with yoghurt recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E Chicken and chickpea fatteh with yoghurt recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Anissa Helou\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EServes: 4\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-a-layered-dish-of-bread-and-yoghurt-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E200g (7oz) chickpeas, or one 400ml can of chickpeas, drained\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp baking soda\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1kg (just over 2lb) boneless chicken\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 or 5 chicken bones (optional)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 cinnamon sticks\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp coarse sea salt, plus more for seasoning\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 large pita bread, opened\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Eolive oil (optional)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E50g (3&frac12; tbsp) unsalted butter\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E60g (2oz) pine nuts\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E10g fresh mint leaves crushed with the garlic (optional)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp tahini\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E900g (32oz) yoghurt (Greek-style)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-a-layered-dish-of-bread-and-yoghurt-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIf you are using dried chickpeas, put them in a large bowl to soak in three times their volume of water (about 3 cups), as they will double in size. Stir in one tsp of baking soda to soften them and therefore help reduce their cooking time. Soak overnight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERinse the chickpeas under cold water, put them in a saucepan, cover with fresh water and place over medium heat. Bring to a boil, cover and cook for 1 hour, or until they are tender. Drain and set aside.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPut the chicken and bones (if using) in the same saucepan, add 1.2 litres (5 cups) of water and place over medium heat. As the water is about to boil, skim the surface clean; this is an important step to keep the flavour clean tasting. Add the cinnamon sticks and salt, cover the pan and boil gently for 45 minutes or until the meat is very tender. If using a can of chickpeas, add once the meat is cooked, just to heat them. Keep warm over a very low heat ahead of serving.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EMeanwhile, toast the bread in a hot oven or under the grill until golden, no more than 5 minutes; let cool. (Drizzle olive oil over the bread before toasting, if desired.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a frying pan, melt the butter and saut&eacute; the pine nuts, stirring regularly, until golden brown; watch them so they don't burn. Remove with a slotted spoon onto a double layer of kitchen paper and leave to drain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 6\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EMix the crushed garlic (and mint if you chose to use it) and tahini into the yoghurt. Add salt to taste. Set aside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 7\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EBreak the toasted bread into bite-sized pieces and spread over the bottom of a deep serving dish. Take the meat out of the stock, cut it into bite-sized pieces and spread over the bread. Remove the chickpeas with a slotted spoon and spread over the meat. Sprinkle a couple tablespoons of the chicken stock over the meat and chickpeas and cover with the seasoned yoghurt. Garnish with the saut&eacute;ed pine nuts. Serve immediately.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETips:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPine nuts are too expensive can easily be substituted for slivered almonds or even cashews.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHelou suggests buying whole chicken to boil and then shred the meat off the bone, in order to have a richer broth than when using deboned chicken.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-a-layered-dish-of-bread-and-yoghurt-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-20T10:06:15Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Fatteh: a layered dish of bread and yoghurt","headlineShort":"Fatteh: a simple 'dinner party' dish","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It's a great contrast of textures, with crispy toasted pita, smooth yoghurt, crunchy pine nuts, juicy chicken and chickpeas, and is the perfect dish for Ramadan and Eid.","summaryShort":"It's a layered dish of bread, chicken, chickpeas and yoghurt","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-19T21:07:53.11909Z","entity":"article","guid":"679cec27-1858-4e9d-bc1a-c33b674328a5","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-a-layered-dish-of-bread-and-yoghurt","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-23T15:17:25.836654Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-a-layered-dish-of-bread-and-yoghurt","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442526},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make","_id":"64acb167a471ef0d41459a36","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Doubling as a delicious maths problem, France's easy-to-make yoghurt cake recipe relies on volume measures facilitated by the ubiquitous 125g terracotta yoghurt pot.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrance is land of ornate pastries, with shops laid out more like jewellers than bakeries. Shining rows of icing-topped eclairs beckon alongside tempting glazed fruit tarts. But visit a French home kitchen, and you'll soon discover that these \u003Cem\u003Ep&acirc;tisseries \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eonly tell half the story of French baked goods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When the French bake, and particularly when the French bake at home, their desserts are less sweet than ours,\" explained American \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230605-james-beard-award-winners-2023\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJames Beard-winning\u003C\u002Fa\u003E food writer \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Faleksandracrapanzano\u002F?hl=en-gb\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAleksandra Crapanzano\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a New York native who moved to France at the tender age of 10. She penned \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.simonandschuster.com\u002Fbooks\u002FGateau\u002FAleksandra-Crapanzano\u002F9781982169732\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGateau: The Surprising Simplicity of French Cakes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with the goal of \"demystifying\" French home bakes, from buttery \u003Cem\u003Equatre-quarts\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a type of pound cake) to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcgoodfood.com\u002Fpremium\u002Fflourless-chocolate-fondants\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eflourless chocolate \u003Cem\u003Efondants\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the bastion of cake simplicity: the\u003Cem\u003E g&acirc;teau au yaourt\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a six-ingredient, one-bowl wonder that's literally child's play.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Gâteau au Yaourt (Yoghurt Cake) recipe\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"By the time I got to France, everybody I knew, knew how to make yoghurt cake already,\" she recalled. \"They learn the yoghurt cake in \u003Cem\u003Ematernelle\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (nursery school), and they have that recipe for the rest of their lives.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat the cake is so frequently made by children may have something to do with the ratio-driven formula at its core: one part yoghurt to one part oil, two parts sugar and three parts flour; plus three eggs and leavening. Doubling as a delicious maths problem, the recipe doesn't rely on a kitchen scale, like most French bakes, but rather on volume measures facilitated by the ubiquitous 125g terracotta yoghurt pot &ndash; a tool that has frequently found its way into Crapanzano's US-bound checked luggage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Of course, I could use a measuring cup,\" she said, \"but it's much more fun to do it this way.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe simple batter, she said, bakes up moister than a pound cake with a light springiness. \"It should have a delicate crumb but it's not a fragile cake.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, another reason the recipe is so kid-friendly is its forgiving nature, a quality Crapanzano attributes to the use of oil over butter, rendering even an accidentally overworked batter tender.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I have seen kids who've whisked it five times and then got bored,\" she said. \"I've seen it where they have fun, and then they start whisking it at rapid speed&hellip; It still tastes great.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"photo of Aleksandra Crapanzano, author of Gateau","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith a muted sweetness balanced by the yoghurt's welcome tang, \"it's just enough to make it a dessert, but not so much that it feels like it needs to be a special occasion.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndeed, birthdays and Sunday lunches in France are more often concluded with the wares of pro \u003Cem\u003Ep&acirc;tissiers, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Earchitectural marvels of ganache, syrup and sponge sourced with care by the host. Homemade French cakes, on the contrary, are a testament to simplicity, devoid not just of icing (Crapanzano said she's never seen a French person ice a cake at home, \"except maybe at Christmas\") but also both salt and vanilla, which Crapanzano notes the French often eschew unless using them in starring roles, as in desserts like \u003Cem\u003Ecr&egrave;me br&ucirc;l&eacute;e\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat isn't to say a home baker couldn't add one or both to the g&acirc;teau au yaourt; after all, the cake's very simplicity renders it a \"blueprint\", according to Crapanzano, a canvas upon which to play.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA dozen different g&acirc;teaux au yaourt dot the pages of her book: infused with pears and Poire Williams (a pear-flavoured brandy); with peach and verbena. In one recipe, almond flour lends more structure; in another, fruity olive oil dances with lemon and thyme. Home bakers, she says, can easily add their own spin, provided they stick with a base of whole milk yoghurt (Crapanzano prefers \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fuk.fage\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, though dairy-free bakers could also begin with the oat yoghurt version developed by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fapollonia_poilane\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EApollonia Poilane\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Crapanzano's childhood neighbour.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith enough tinkering, g&acirc;teau au yaourt can even rise through the ranks to special occasion status, as with Crapanzano's \"dinner party\" recipe infused with orange, doused in a Grand Marnier syrup, and finished with a marmalade-rum glaze.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBe it in this more fanciful form or the six-ingredient baseline recipe (unsurprisingly the book's first), yoghurt cake is above all a testament to French home baking's everyday appeal: the cake of choice for the 16:00 \u003Cem\u003Ego&ucirc;ter \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(after-school snack)\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E for unexpected guests who drop by for coffee, or for a no-fuss midweek dessert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When you're not trying to make something really rich and really sweet,\" mused Crapanzano, \"it becomes just a part of life.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd moreover, it's almost always within your reach. \"It needs nothing but a bowl and a whisk,\" said Crapanzano. \"And a jar of yoghurt.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"photo of French Gâteau au Yaourt","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMost begin their yoghurt cake journey with the simple, six-ingredient classic in Crapanzano's recipe below. For those wanting to give the classic a touch more oomph, her version infused with just a touch of citrus and vanilla might be just the thing. And for that wow factor, her Dinner Party Yoghurt Cake, rendered extra moist with a Grand Marnier soaking syrup and topped with a rum glaze, elevates this childhood classic to a truly grown-up treat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"G&acirc;teau au Yaourt (Yoghurt Cake) recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EG&acirc;teau au Yaourt (Yoghurt Cake) recipe&nbsp;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&ndash; Version 1\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAleksandra Crapanzano\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E1 jar (&frac12; cup\u002F125g) plain whole milk yoghurt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 large eggs, at room temperature\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 jars (1 cup\u002F200g) granulated sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 jars (1&frac12; cups\u002F180g) all-purpose (plain) or cake flour, plus more for the pan\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tsp baking powder\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 jar (&frac12; cup\u002F108g) neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ebutter for greasing\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPreheat the oven to 350F (175C).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EButter and flour an 8&frac12; x 4&frac12;-in (22x11cm) loaf pan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EEmpty the yoghurt from its little jar into a mixing bowl. Add the eggs and whisk to combine. Using the empty yoghurt jar as a measuring cup, add 2 jars of sugar. Whisk well. Whisk in 3 jars of flour, the baking powder, then 1 jar of oil. Whisk until homogenous.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPour into the prepared pan and bake for 35-45 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the centre comes out clean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EG&acirc;teau au Yaourt (Yoghurt Cake) recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&ndash; Version 2\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E1 jar (&frac12; cup\u002F125g) whole milk plain yoghurt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 large eggs, at room temperature\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp vanilla extract or paste\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Egrated zest of one lemon, lime or orange\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 jars (1 cup\u002F200g) granulated sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 jars (1&frac12; cups\u002F180g) all-purpose (plain) or cake flour, plus more for the pan\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tsp baking powder\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; tsp fine sea salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 jar (&frac12; cup\u002F108g) neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ebutter for greasing\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPreheat the oven to 350F (175C).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EButter and flour an 8&frac12; x 4&frac12;-in (22x11cm) loaf pan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EWhisk the yoghurt and eggs together. Whisk in the vanilla extract and lemon zest. Add the sugar and whisk to thoroughly combine. Add the flour, baking powder and salt and whisk just to combine. Add the oil and whisk until homogenous.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPour into the prepared pan and bake for 35-45 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the centre comes out clean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENote:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E This recipe can also be made in an 8-in (20cm) springform or a 9-in (23cm) round cake pan. A 9-in cake will only take around 30-35 minutes to bake, whereas an 8-in round will take closer to 40 and a medium loaf between 35 and 45.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"photo of French yoghurt pots","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EG&acirc;teau au Yaourt pour le D&icirc;ner (Dinner Party Yoghurt Cake) recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E- Version 3\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor cake:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E2 jars (1 cup\u002F200g) granulated sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Egrated zest of 1 orange\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 jar (&frac12; cup\u002F125g) plain whole milk yoghurt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 large eggs, at room temperature\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp vanilla extract\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 jars (1&frac12; cups\u002F180g) all-purpose (plain) or cake flour, plus more for the pan\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tsp baking powder\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; tsp fine sea salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 jar\u002F1&frac12; cup neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ebutter for greasing\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor soaking syrup:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E2 tbsp Grand Marnier\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp orange juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; cup\u002F50g caster sugar\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor glaze:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&frac34; cup apricot jam or marmalade\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tsp rum or water\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPreheat the oven to 350F (175C)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EButter and flour an 8&frac12; x 4&frac12;-in (22x11cm) loaf pan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETo make the cake, combine the sugar and orange zest in a bowl and, using your fingertips, rub them together to distribute the citrus oils.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EWhisk the yoghurt and eggs together. Add the zesty sugar and vanilla and whisk to thoroughly combine. Add the flour, baking powder and salt and whisk just to combine. Add the oil and whisk just until homogenous.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPour into the prepared pan and bake for 35-45 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the centre comes out clean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 6\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPrepare the syrup by heating the Grand Marnier and orange juice in a microwave until warm, but not hot. Stir in the sugar to dissolve. Drizzle this over the cake while still warm. Let the cake cool.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 7\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETo make the glaze, warm the jam with the rum over low heat. Strain. Brush onto the cake once it has cooled to room temperature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENote:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003E This recipe can also be made in an 8-in (2-cm) springform or 9-in (22cm) round cake pan. A 9-in cake will only take around 30-35 minutes to bake, whereas an 8-in round will take closer to 40 minutes and a medium loaf between 35 and 45 minutes.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Adapted from&nbsp;GATEAU,&nbsp;published by Scribner. Copyright &copy; 2023 by Aleksandra Crapanzano.)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-11T01:32:20.878Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Gâteau au yaourt: The French cake anyone can make","headlineShort":"France's no-fuss gâteau au yaourt","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"photo of French Gâteau au Yaourt","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"photo of French Gâteau au Yaourt","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Doubling as a delicious maths problem, France's easy-to-make yoghurt cake recipe relies on volume measures facilitated by the ubiquitous 125g terracotta yoghurt pot.","summaryShort":"It needs nothing but a bowl, whisk and jar of yoghurt","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-11T01:33:11.212327Z","entity":"article","guid":"6d4c4594-429d-402b-b260-9e3c37510da7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-08T18:24:06.347358Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442526},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake","_id":"64df73c0a471ef0d4311d69b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnylah-lee"],"bodyIntro":"This slice of Yazd nostalgia uses yoghurt and rice flour to create a balance between moisture, fluff and crumble, bestrewn with hints of rosewater and cardamom.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the Red Hook neighbourhood of Brooklyn, New York, masterful yoghurt-makers balance sweet and tart in a creamily decadent fermented yoghurt, and preserve and its byproduct of whey. Iranian author, business owner and yoghurt expert, Homa Dashtaki, lies at the heart of the operation, sealing jars of this timeless kitchen staple with a label embellished with an illustration of a white moustache.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn her recent cookbook, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhitemoustache.com\u002Fyogurt-and-whey-book\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYogurt and Whey: Recipes of an Iranian Immigrant Life\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Dashtaki uses her lifelong relationship with yoghurt and whey to tell the story of her culture, faith and relationship with food through her recipes. She emphasises sustainable food production and a battle against wastefulness, instilling these ideals into her 12-year-old yoghurt and whey business, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhitemoustache.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe White Mustache\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, named for the facial hair of Dashtaki's earliest kitchen companion: her father.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Cake Yazdi\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe White Mustache has remained steadfast in its goal of expanding the market for whey, in order to reduce waste. Rather than discard the whey, Dashtaki and her team bottle the highly nutritious yellow-green liquid and urge customers to use it for smoothies, meat marinades and brines and post-workout hydration. The company is even looking into producing whey chips for pets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGrowing up in Iran, her family always made yoghurt from scratch. It functioned as the basis for nearly all meals &ndash; sweet or savoury &ndash; at any time of day. Dashtaki recalls how conversations over boiling milk fostered a deeper relationship with her father, and, when she immigrated to the United States in 1987, with the small&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FZoroastrianism\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZoroastrian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;community that she found in Southern California.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Yoghurt forces you to slow down. It takes a long time for the milk to boil &ndash; and an even longer time for the milk to cool. And in that time, everything feels better,\" she explained. \"Yoghurt was the excuse for this togetherness, the result of longing to connect and rebuild some semblance of communal village activities around food that we'd been yearning for ever since we left Iran.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g73bry"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Photo of liquid whey","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Dashtaki, the lessons in patience, gratitude and focus learned from yoghurt and its resulting recipes keep her from \"losing her whey\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of these recipes is Cake Yazdi, a moist yet crumbly yoghurt cake reminiscent of her childhood spent in the desertic Yazd province of Iran. Yazd is the birthplace of the dessert, sits in the centre of the country, and is one of the last remaining hubs of Zoroastrianism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a Zoroastrian who grew up in one of the clusters of Zoroastrian villages in Yazd, Dashtaki's relationship with food is intertwined with her faith. In Dashtaki's words, \"Zoroastrian living, in the deserts of Yazd, is dictated by the crops, the weather, the availability of water and how many sheep can be sold or slaughtered. These factors informed our cuisine, and the festivals and celebrations that mark our calendar.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis farm-to-table culture taught Dashtaki to consider every use of a product before discarding it. In such an environment, a product as versatile as yoghurt could be used to tenderise a savoury meat dish, moisten a dessert or be enjoyed on its own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYoghurt, cardamom and rose water are all rich Iranian culinary traditions baked into the Yazd delicacy. These elements evoke a strong sense of nostalgia for Dashtaki, leading her to embark on a seven-year journey to perfect her beloved Cake Yazdi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There's something about Cake Yazdi that tastes like delicious desert nights air. It's light but it's dry in the moistest way possible,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDashtaki was initially reluctant to recreate the recipe for fear of \"getting it wrong\", though she decided to proceed anyway due to her reverence for the dish. It was important for Dashtaki to replicate not only its flavours, but the sentimental feeling that should chase each bite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g73dwk"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Photo of Homa Dashtaki","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I didn't want to touch that recipe, [it] had nostalgia written all over it. I was like, 'If I can't recreate it &ndash; the shame on my family, and the sadness that I would feel over getting it wrong.\" Dashtaki struggled to pinpoint the recipe largely because her family never made the dessert at home, so she aimed to construct a Cake Yazdi comparable to that of the Yazd bakeries from her childhood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I kept getting it wrong. I couldn't get the right recipe. But [One day] my aunt's daughter-in-law gave me a secret family recipe that she got from my aunt, and I was like, 'Oh, this is going to be it'. For many years, that version of the recipe was the Cake Yazdi recipe that was [going to be] in the book. And I gave it a ton of authority because of the source. But it just didn't taste right. Then I [thought], 'Do I have the arrogance to not only mess with my aunt's recipe, but also this very traditional cake that I have such a nostalgic feelings for?' And apparently I did.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe knew certain parts of the dish to be unyielding, like the fluted tart pan that gives each cake its shape, or its perfect complement of black tea (prepared by way of the Persian \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002Fsamovar\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esamovar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E). However, the earliest versions of her recipe were uncharacteristically yoghurt-less. When she trusted her own instinct and included the creamy binding agent, she discovered that it is instrumental to tenderising the rice flour and perfecting the dessert's moist yet crumbly texture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Finally letting the yoghurt lead the way and become an ingredient in the cake was very helpful. Not using honey but sugar was also very helpful,\" she said. In addition, she confronted her heavy-handedness with rosewater and cardamom and adjusted the recipe accordingly. Staples in the Iranian kitchen, these two ingredients are meant to provide a subtle hint of flavour, not overpower the dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFortunately, Dashtaki's arduous work resulted in a richly dense Cake Yazdi, fully approved by the childhood friends who attach the same nostalgia to the dish as she does.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is no review, there is no critic who could top this feeling,\" declared Dashtaki in response to her recipe's success.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g73b2n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Photo of Cake Yazdi","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Cake Yazdi\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECake Yazdi\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Homa Dashtaki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMakes 12 individual cakes\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E110g (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the tart pan\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E120g (1 cup) plain flour\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp rice flour \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp baking powder\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; tsp bicarb soda (baking soda)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; tsp kosher salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tsp ground cardamom\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 large eggs, at room temperature, separated\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; cup sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; cup plain whole milk yoghurt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp rose water\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp chopped pistachios\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPreheat the oven to 175C\u002F350F with a rack in the middle position. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin with butter. Sift the plain flour, rice flour, baking powder, bicarb soda, salt and cardamom into a small bowl. Whisk thoroughly till fully combined. Set aside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a separate small bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form; set aside. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Mix in the melted butter, yoghurt and rose water and gently whisk until smooth, another 2 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ESlowly add the dry ingredients to the wet and mix until fully integrated. Add the egg whites until you have a uniform mixture, gently folding to not deflate the eggs. Fold in the pistachios.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EDivide the batter among the muffin cups, filling &frac34;, full. Bake until the tops are browned, and a toothpick inserted in the centre comes out clean, about 25 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ELet the cakes cool completely before unmoulding them. Serve with tea. Store any leftovers in an airtight container at room temperature for up to three days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETip\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThese cakes are traditionally baked in fanned muffin tins, making individual tea cakes. Standard muffin tins can also be used.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-08-19T13:33:03Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Cake Yazdi: Iranian yoghurt cake","headlineShort":"A cake seven years in the making","image":["p0g73b2n"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Photo of Cake Yazdi","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"31.8974","longitude":"54.3569","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Photo of Cake Yazdi","promoImage":["p0g73b2n"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180110-the-country-that-brought-yoghurt-to-the-world","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230419-fatteh-a-layered-dish-of-bread-and-yoghurt","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230711-gteau-au-yaourt-the-french-cake-anyone-can-make"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This slice of Yazd nostalgia uses yoghurt and rice flour to create a balance between moisture, fluff and crumble, bestrewn with hints of rosewater and cardamom.","summaryShort":"It's story of culture, faith and food","tag":["tag\u002Frecipe","tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-08-18T13:35:43.31251Z","entity":"article","guid":"3687fd49-e75f-4764-a979-2f053bb157bc","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-18T13:37:58.362872Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230818-cake-yazdi-iranian-yoghurt-cake","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Firan","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmiddle-east","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"middle-east_iran_middle-east_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442525},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches","_id":"64a46156a471ef30a45bca8f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"For centuries, the origin of Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches has eluded everyone except locals, who firmly believe they were carved by angels.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI have always questioned God&rsquo;s existence, but in the northern Ethiopian town of Lalibela, I was presented with fairly substantial evidence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOfficially Christian since 330AD, Ethiopia claims to be the oldest Christian country in the world. And despite being ravaged by poverty, faith has remained strong over the centuries; Lalibela&rsquo;s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F18\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emedieval rock-hewn churches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are clear proof of that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEach of the 11 monolithic structures is dramatically stamped into the mountainous landscape, plunging 40 to 50m into the Earth and pierced with cross-shaped chiselled openings to let sunlight into the hollowed-out interior.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in: \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&ndash; &nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170411-the-mystics-who-found-meaning-in-solar-panels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe village powered by divine light\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&ndash; &nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170504-christianitys-most-important-church\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA rare glimpse at Jesus' burial chamber\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&ndash; &nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170418-saudi-arabias-silent-desert-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA silent city hidden in the desert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere are several theories surrounding the creation of these extraordinary places of worship. Some believe they were carved by the Knights Templar, Christian crusaders who, during the 13th Century when the churches were created, were at the height of their power. But there&rsquo;s no concrete evidence of their involvement.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe most heavily circulated hypothesis &ndash; and the one propagated by the small museum near the entrance to the churches &ndash; is that they were hewn under the orders of King Lalibela, emperor of Ethiopia during the late 12th and early 13th Centuries, who is said to have visited Jerusalem in 1187BC just before the Holy City fell to Muslim forces. King Lalibela built these churches around Ethiopia&rsquo;s own stretch of the Jordan River, his intent being to welcome Christians to a &lsquo;New Jerusalem&rsquo;.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet the museum doesn&rsquo;t seem to put its heart into pushing this theory; its display of construction tools includes only a fragile adze, an axe-shaped tool that King Lalibela&rsquo;s workers supposedly used to sculpt the churches from the ground. Even allowing for 900 years of wear, it looked better suited to hooking weeds out of soil than carving rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInstead, the thousands of worshippers who attend daily services inside the churches accept a much more divine explanation: that King Lalibela was assisted by an army of angels, who completed the 11 churches in one night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrom a distance, the only sign of these underground temples is the stream of people flowing in and out of crevices. Visits have to be timed for the moments when congregations ebb, using the intermissions in daily services to negotiate the canyons, sometimes just wide enough for a single person, leading down into the Earth. With my hand against the wall, I slowly descended into the shadows of the churches.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven between prayer sessions the churches are never empty; elderly worshippers find it easier to stay nearby than negotiate the precarious paths. They watched, leaning inscrutably on prayer sticks, as I unlaced my hiking boots and added them to the small scatter of flip-flops and slippers that lay outside. As I entered Biete Golgotha Mikael, said to be the final resting place of King Lalibela himself, the threadbare red carpet did little to mask the feeling of cool stone on the bottom of my feet. My eyes adjusted to the darkness and a medieval figure took shape &ndash; it was St Peter, etched into the wall of New Jerusalem for eternity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESlender paths and tunnels led me from church to church, but one was set apart; of the 11 houses of worship in the complex, Biete Giyorgis, a good long stone&rsquo;s throw from the main warren of churches, was the most memorable. Its cruciform shape, immaculately buried in gently sloping rock, is topped with an etched Coptic cross that can only be seen from above. Its sheer walls have been tanned bronze over the ages, and plunge 40m into the surrounding chasm. Despite standing open to the elements, the structure is immaculately preserved, wearing its nine centuries with grace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENot all the churches have fared as well. Biete Medhane Alem, accepted as the largest monolithic church in the world, is sheltered from the elements by a rather clunky slab of Unesco-issued sheet metal to prevent further erosion. And the walls of the Biete Abba Libanos feature a few alarming cracks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUpon noticing these hints of decay, I had my doubts about the churches&rsquo; divine origins: surely if the churches of Lalibela had been built by angels, they would all still be in perfect condition.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut as I emerged from the carved channel that led to Biete Giyorgis, I realised it didn&rsquo;t matter how the churches came to be. Far below, a new wave of visitors were passing through the church's towering stone entryways, lintels that have been worn smooth by the footfall of centuries. They descended into the Earth, disappearing into the darkness cast by the monoliths and emerging again, having passed through the structures, to climb back up towards the sunlight. At the edge of the crevices, young men helped elderly worshippers navigate the sloping trails. I lingered for several minutes to watch the seemingly never-ending stream of pilgrims return above ground. They believed, and that was enough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin over three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-08-19T15:59:24Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Ethiopia’s miraculous underground churches","headlineShort":"Africa's mystical underground churches","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"For centuries, the origin of Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches has eluded everyone except locals, who firmly believe they were carved by angels.","summaryShort":"Angels or the Knights Templar – no-one knows who really built these churches","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:06:02.777005Z","entity":"article","guid":"f4ce9761-a53e-4dd4-a716-3245c83d11bd","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:32:19.371281Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442526},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia","_id":"64a46158a471ef30ae241a2a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"They were found through a quirk of the region’s geopolitical history, which left a photographic trail of WWII aerial photos and declassified Cold War-era spy satellite images.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA group of children were listening to a story beneath the shade of an African juniper tree in a small church forest near Debre Tabor in northern Ethiopia. Three women walked along a path, the sound of their chatting permeating the dense trees as our group of 12 people, clearly foreigners, approached.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the children spotted us at the forest&rsquo;s edge, they came running along the dusty path, jumped over a low rock wall, ducked under branches and approached us curiously. I was tagging along with a group of researchers led by ecologist Dr Catherine Cardel&uacute;s from Colgate University in New York state&nbsp;and Bernahu Tsegay from Bahir Dar University, Ethiopia who were here to learn about the forest&rsquo;s ecology. The kids, meanwhile, were already experts. They knew every inch of the place; having grown up in these trees, this is the only forest they have ever seen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI was in a &lsquo;sacred forest&rsquo;, more than 1,000 of which are scattered across the landscape in a near perfect lattice, each protecting a traditional Ethiopian Orthodox church at its centre. These small, neat clusters of trees, each about 2km away from the next, ensure that the local people are never far from the forests that are so deeply rooted in their social and spiritual lives. They&rsquo;re used as community centres, meeting places and schools; for religious ceremonies, burial grounds and even bathrooms; and provide the only shade for miles. Although some sacred forests are fairly accessible, like the island forests on Lake Tana that can be visited on a half-day boat tour from the city of Bahir Dar, in the rural, mountainous landscapes of South Gondar, east of Bahir Dar, where I now was, the church forests can be harder to find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEthiopia&rsquo;s miraculous underground churches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190304-south-africas-flammable-floral-kingdom\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world&rsquo;s most diverse ecosystem\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170413-the-trees-keeping-vietnam-afloat\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe trees keeping Vietnam afloat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEach dot of green stands out on the landscape because they are some of the only trees left in a country that&rsquo;s experienced widespread deforestation. Some forests are more than 1,000 years old, and these precious trees have been spared thanks to shadow conservation &ndash; conservation as a by-product of religious stewardship. But they are small and threatened by encroaching roads, buildings and farmers' fields. Paradoxically, humans have both protected them yet pose the biggest threat to their future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA priest appeared at the forest&rsquo;s edge and listened as our interpreter explained that we were here to learn more about the relationship between the local people and the forests they worship in. He nodded, and we followed him along a dusty path into the forest&rsquo;s shade, leaving the shimmering heat of the farmers&rsquo; fields behind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe forests average just five football fields in size, so it only took a few minutes to make our way from the outer edge to the church in the middle. The entire forest consisted of a ring of trees that formed a doughnut shape around a central clearing. A stone wall surrounded the clearing and a round church sat in the middle with an ornate cross on top, the national colours &ndash; red, yellow and green &ndash; boldly outlining the roof. I later learned that the symbolic distance between the church and this wall is traditionally described as &lsquo;40 arm-lengths of an angel away&rsquo;.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe priest explained that the forests are sacred because each houses a \u003Cem\u003Etabot\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in the centre of the church, which is thought to be a replica of the original Ark of the Covenant. The sanctity of the tabot radiates outward from the centre, so that the closer one is to the church, the more sacred the space. The same goes for the trees &ndash; they are seen as &lsquo;clothing&rsquo; for the church, part of the church itself, which is why just a small ring of trees &ndash; those closest to the church &ndash; has been protected, creating tiny forests with fields pushing right up to the edges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESmall forests, however, are more susceptible to human and natural disturbances, and this region has undergone massive deforestation over the past few decades. Today, only about 5% of Ethiopia is covered in forest, compared to around 45% about a century ago. Although it&rsquo;s mostly the trees between the forests that have disappeared, the sacred forests are indirectly affected, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESitting cross-legged near the edge of the forest with the team&rsquo;s geographer, Dr Peter Scull, we watched a farmer driving his oxen through his neighbouring field. Scull told me how the team of researchers used a trail of historic photographic records to pinpoint the location of these forests, measure their size and determine exactly how the landscape has changed over the last century. It turns out that technologies developed for war are now helping inform a project on conservation in church forests.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EScull explained that in the late 1930s, the occupying Italian army took aerial photos of the region and stored the images in ammunition boxes when they withdrew in 1941. They weren&rsquo;t found again until 2014, when 8,000 images turned up in the basement of the Ethiopian Mapping Agency in Addis Ababa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter World War Two, in the 1960s, the US Corona satellite programme also passed over the region. The Corona programme was the US&rsquo;s first photoreconnaissance spy satellite that was launched during the height of the Cold War to identify potential USSR missile launch sites. Former US President Bill Clinton declassified the images in 1995, and a comparison of the historical images with modern Google Earth images showed the researchers that the forests boundaries haven&rsquo;t shrunk &ndash; and some, in fact, have grown, thanks to the planting of non-native eucalyptus trees for timber harvesting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut the images show that trees and shrubs used to grow outside the forest proper, which acted as a buffer zone and protected the trees from wind, erosion, and temperature and humidity changes. In the past few decades, the trees in the buffer zone have been harvested for construction and fuel, and the land converted to farmland. There&rsquo;s no gradual transition from forest to farmland anymore; the buffer zone has completely disappeared.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe photos also reveal that what used to be an unbroken canopy of greenery now has gaps that let sunlight in where there should be shade. And with fewer trees between forests, each one has become an isolated refuge for plants and animals. From the air, the splashes of green forests look like survivors huddled together for protection.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe aerial shots, however, can&rsquo;t capture what kinds of trees are growing, how many seedlings there are, whether the soil has the nutrients that plants need and how much human disturbance there is. For that, you need boots on the ground.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThroughout the day, the researchers took soil and leaf samples from species like the Prunus africana, the African cherry with its expansive crown, and Juniperus procera, the African juniper, a slow-growing native tree that was used to build churches when it was more plentiful. The kids gathered around us, shyly at first but then calling out the tree names in Amharic, laughing when we tried to repeat the words. Some kids asked if this was the most beautiful forest we&rsquo;d ever seen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, we weren&rsquo;t in a lush tropical rainforest or the endless coniferous forests of North America. Forests like this, where there are a lot of man-made structures like paths, buildings and clearings, tend to have an abundance of dense, weedy plants that stifle other growth, and there are too many non-native trees growing in place of native species.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe forests are alive, but they&rsquo;re not in great shape. And while the next generation of kids run in and out of the trees, playing games, when it comes time for them to take on the stewardship role, there&rsquo;s concern about what will be left.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA healthy forest should have a robust canopy and young trees in the understory. &ldquo;Some of the forests we go to have these beautiful, gorgeous, big trees,&rdquo; said ecologist Dr Carrie Woods, gesturing up at the canopy, &ldquo;but the problem is, you look underneath and it&rsquo;s grass and rocks.&rdquo; In some forests, there is no next generation of trees.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, while the forests aren&rsquo;t robust, Cardel&uacute;s says that they also aren&rsquo;t being degraded as much as they feared. Some parishes are taking direct steps to bolster forest health by adding a low stone wall around the outer forest perimeter to prevent livestock coming in to graze. And it helps a little, allowing richer seedling communities to grow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"People are the ones who need these forests and they are the ones who&rsquo;ve preserved them, so we should celebrate what the local people have done","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EParishes also take advantage of government programmes to provide free seedlings. Unfortunately, the seedlings are often non-native trees like eucalyptus, which outcompetes the slower-growing native species. Eucalyptus plantations have sprung up on the edges of many sacred forests and have become central to the economy. In a country that needs its scarce wood for cooking and building, eucalyptus has been a saviour, and in the end, it&rsquo;s a tough choice to balance the desire for native species with the need for fast-growing timber to sell.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo far, the team has visited 44 sacred forests in South Gondar, hiking up dusty hillsides, across streams and fields to the mountaintop sites where they interview priests about their religious stewardship of the forest and take soil and leaf samples to measure the biodiversity. Cardel&uacute;s hopes that the information they gather will help with conservation strategies moving forward, like starting nurseries to grow native seedlings, removing exotic or weedy species, and limiting more building inside the forests.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;But in the end,&rdquo; Cardel&uacute;s said, &ldquo;our research shows that shadow conservation really works.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;People are the ones who need these forests and they are the ones who&rsquo;ve preserved them, so we should celebrate what the local people have done, help them do it better and help support shadow conservation in other places.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy late afternoon, the novelty of us as visitors seemed to have only partially worn off. A shepherd, still carrying his staff, snapped a shot of us with his flip phone. Cardel&uacute;s thanked the priest, and once again, the kids tagged along. One young boy pulled out a handmade flute and, like the pied piper, he led us out of the forest and back across the fields to shrieks of laughter from his companions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt was clear the community&rsquo;s spiritual and cultural lives are entwined in these trees. Despite their small size and the amount of human disturbance, the cultural attachment to a place &ndash; one that&rsquo;s been worshipped in, walked on and harvested for hundreds of years &ndash; has been the conservation tool that&rsquo;s saved them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-05-21T19:46:15Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The ‘sacred forests’ of northern Ethiopia","headlineShort":"A sacred site found by spy satellites","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"They were found through a quirk of the region’s geopolitical history, which left a photographic trail of WWII aerial photos and declassified Cold War-era spy satellite images.","summaryShort":"It’s thought to house a replica of the Ark of the Covenant","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:32:51.6398Z","entity":"article","guid":"f5f7b824-758e-4c0b-b5e8-5b38dce351e8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-28T14:36:14.985221Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442526},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food","_id":"64a46158a471ef0d6a03289b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"It’s been the basis of Ethiopia’s staple dish for more than 2,000 years, so how did a Dutch man claim ownership of the new 'superfood' teff?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the early 1980s, images of starving children in drought-stricken landscapes were beamed into lounge rooms around the world as aid organisations made appeals to help the millions of Ethiopians impacted by famine. So powerful were the pictures that many people would still find it hard to believe the country is home to what is widely touted in the Western world as the next superfood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20180910-the-oldest-coffee-in-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe oldest coffee in the world?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180730-can-belgium-claim-ownership-of-the-french-fry\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe truth about the humble French fry\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171211-who-invented-hummus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWho invented hummus?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA gluten-free cereal that is high in protein, iron and fibre, teff has been cultivated in Ethiopia and neighbouring Eritrea for at least 2,000 years. In mud huts in the highlands and fine-dining restaurants in the capital Addis Ababa, it is ground into flour and used to make the country&rsquo;s staple dish, injera. The pancake-like fermented bread is perfect for scooping up meat and vegetable stews and their juices, and most Ethiopians eat it at least once a day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELike most travellers, I quickly fell in love with its slightly spongy texture and tangy flavour, and found myself ordering it time and time again as we made our way around the country. It is served on a large, round plate with a smattering of colourful concoctions, including lentils, collard greens, yellow beans, lamb, beef and chicken. Breaking it apart and eating it with your hands makes the experience that much more enjoyable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt is hard to believe, but despite injera&rsquo;s popularity throughout the country, the patent for the processing of teff flour and related teff products ended up in the hands of a company in the Netherlands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt all began in 2003, when a dozen varieties of teff seeds were sent to Dutch agronomist Jans Roosjen through a partnership with the Ethiopian Institute of Biodiversity Conservation for research and development. Four years later, the European Patent Office granted a patent to his company Health and Performance Food International (HPFI). While Roosjen overestimated the potential for the seed at the time and his company went bankrupt, he continued to market and sell teff products.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe dispute over who owns teff \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp06zddjn\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emade international headlines\u003C\u002Fa\u003E earlier this year after Roosjen tried to sue another Dutch company that was marketing teff baked goods for patent infringement, and his patent was declared void in the Netherlands. When the deadline for an appeal expired in February 2019, many Ethiopians hailed it as a victory on social media.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I hope we can learn from this that our national assets must be protected","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEthiopian diplomat Fitsum Arega \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002Ffitsumaregaa\u002Fstatus\u002F1093020898360205312\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etweeted that it was great news\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. &ldquo;I hope we can learn from this that our national assets must be protected by Ethiopians &amp; friends of #Ethiopia,&rdquo; he wrote.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut with Roosjen's patent still in place in other parts of Europe, the war continues. In February, Ethiopia&rsquo;s attorney general Berhanu Tsegaye \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBerhanuTsegaye\u002Fstatus\u002F1093139280799694848\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etweeted\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the government was determined to defend Ethiopia&rsquo;s legal rights related to teff. &ldquo;Ethiopia has already deployed a law firm to fight the teff case internationally,&rdquo; he wrote.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt is not the first time Ethiopia has had to protect one of its biggest products, with the country previously going into battle against Starbucks over the use of three premium coffee names. After intense talks, the world&rsquo;s largest coffee chain and the Ethiopian government reached a licencing agreement allowing Starbucks to sell and market Harrar, Sidamo and Yirgacheffe coffee in 2007. According to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wipo.int\u002Fipadvantage\u002Fen\u002Fdetails.jsp?id=2621\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea report by the World Intellectual Property Organization\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the high-profile dispute greatly increased the value of Ethiopian coffee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDr Bula Wayessa, who is an expert in indigenous crops, believes the Dutch teff patent stripped millions of Ethiopian farmers of their rights. &ldquo;It represents a manifestation of global power relations in which multi-million-dollar corporations based in the global north excise cultural appropriation in Third World countries,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;The flaws in the international legal system that give private companies patent ownership without thorough investigation are disproportionally affecting developing countries such as Ethiopia.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDr Wayessa, visiting assistant professor at the State University of New York, New Paltz, was born into a teff-farming family in the Oromia Regional State, which is one of Ethiopia&rsquo;s nine ethnically based regions. He grew up eating injera twice a day and helped cultivate, tend to and harvest the crop after school and in the summer holidays. &ldquo;If I had other foods than injera for lunch and dinner, I used to still feel hungry,&rdquo; he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESince leaving his homeland in 2009 to study overseas, Dr Wayessa has returned several times to conduct research. He said teff is not just a crop; it is part of Ethiopia&rsquo;s cultural heritage. &ldquo;Teff injera is a major common identity marker across more than 80 ethnic groups living in the country,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;It frames Ethiopians&rsquo; indigenous food technology and informs their social and national identities by helping to chart social relationships through gathering around the plate and sharing.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut while the dispute over teff&rsquo;s ownership was big news around the globe, Sofonias Melese, head of operations at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.newethiopia.tours\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENew Ethiopia Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, said he only knew about it because he works in the tourism industry, and most of his countrymen weren&rsquo;t aware of the controversy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Teff is the backbone of our kitchen","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;The patent issue is really sad for me,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;Teff is the backbone of our kitchen. We eat it every day &ndash; sometimes three times a day &ndash; in almost all regions and tribes.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMelese said he loves introducing people to injera during his tours. &ldquo;Most of our tourists first try injera alone, then I can see the sourness in their faces,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;Then I tell them to try it with our spicy \u003Cem\u003Ewat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which is like a stew, and then they love it. When I tell them it&rsquo;s gluten-free, high in protein and iron, they get fascinated.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile its exact age is unclear, archaeologists believe that teff originated and was domesticated in highland Ethiopia about 2,000 years ago, although griddles for baking injera may date back 2,500 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDr Diane Lyons PhD, co-author of Griddles, Ovens, and Agricultural Origins: An Ethnoarchaeological Study of Bread Baking in Highland Ethiopia, has conducted extensive research in northern Ethiopia&rsquo;s Tigray region, where injera is baked on a clay griddle and served with meat, vegetable and legume stews. She said there are two colours of teff grains &ndash; white and red. The former has traditionally been considered more valuable and symbolises wealth, and is always served to important guests. Red injera is cheaper and is more commonly used in daily food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBoth Dr Lyons and Dr Wayessa said that teff is now expensive for poorer urban people thanks to global demand. Most farmers in northern and southern Tigray now sell their teff for larger quantities of cheaper grains in the market, such as barley, wheat and sorghum, to make their injera, causing &ldquo;a loss in culture and a loss in nutrition,&rdquo; according to Dr Lyons. &ldquo;[Teff] is usually the cereal used in making injera in restaurants &ndash; and always in the finer restaurants in Ethiopia,&rdquo; she added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs an outsider, Dr Lyons said it seemed unethical to appropriate Ethiopia&rsquo;s rights over teff. &ldquo;This is a very poor country and their ancestors developed this crop,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;They should have the rights to benefit from its marketing. Ethiopians are very proud of their cuisine, and rightly so. Their food is delicious, and teff-based injera is viewed as the best injera by Ethiopians. I sincerely hope they regain &lsquo;full ownership&rsquo; over teff.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI spent two weeks travelling throughout Ethiopia, from Addis Ababa to the Simien Mountains, dining on teff at restaurants daily. Children, raised on the grain, waved and chased our car as we passed them by. We were welcomed into the home of a rural family who showed us the small kitchen where they make injera. For the sake and future of these warm and hospitable people, I can&rsquo;t help but share the same wish.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffood-wars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood Wars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture&rsquo;s identity.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-05-09T22:22:48Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Did the Dutch 'steal' this African food?","headlineShort":"Did the Dutch steal this 'superfood'?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It’s been the basis of Ethiopia’s staple dish for more than 2,000 years, so how did a Dutch man claim ownership of the new 'superfood' teff?","summaryShort":"The dispute over who owns it made international headlines earlier this year","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:32:18.642435Z","entity":"article","guid":"282f10ea-0e2d-48a7-b301-94cff114a627","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:48:44.658446Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442526},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder","_id":"64de8455a471ef0d4311d68e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstuart-butler"],"bodyIntro":"Although many travellers will have heard of the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela in Ethiopia, few will know about the \"new Lalibela\" being carved out of the rockface by a devoted monk.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELegend has it that the dramatic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches\"\u003Erock-hewn churches of Lalibela\u003C\u002Fa\u003E were created with the help of a team of angels. Buried deep into the rock in the highlands of northern Ethiopia, the 11 monolithic churches were built in the late 12th and early 13th Centuries by King Lalibela, who, so he claimed, had built the churches on the instruction from God.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the Crusades in full swing and the pilgrimage sites of Jerusalem too dangerous to visit, the Lalibela churches were envisioned to be a \"new\" Jerusalem and a place of pilgrimage for Ethiopia's large Orthodox Christian community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the churches remain a major place of pilgrimage for Ethiopia's Christians. They're also a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F18\u002F\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and international travellers flock here to see one of Africa's most extraordinary historical spots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6klxt"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Bete Amanuel church, Lalibela","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to local guide Workeye Desale Alemu, there are two possible reasons why the churches were buried into the rock. The first was as a form of protection: during proceeding centuries, Muslim invaders had destroyed many of the more obvious churches, and so King Lalibela thought (rightly, as it turned out) that burying them would keep them safely hidden from potential attackers. The other reason, according to Alemu, is that King Lalibela \"was also inspired by the Biblical account that Jesus was born in a cave in Bethlehem and was buried in a cave in Golgotha\". \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhatever the reason, the churches at Lalibela are architecturally remarkable. One of the churches, Bete Medhane Alem, which is 33m long, 23m wide and 10m high, is considered to be the largest monolithic church in the world; while the Bete Amanuel church (pictured above), is known for its fine stone carvings. It's been suggested that this church actually started life as a royal residence for King Lalibela.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6klgm"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Dagmawi Lalibela, Ethiopia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt takes big ambitions to set out to build a \"New Jerusalem\" and you might think that after King Lalibela completed his masterpiece that nobody else would dare to try and top it. But on a lonely mountain slope around 60km south of Lalibela, a devoted monk and two church deacons are busy chipping away at the rock to create an extraordinary new version of the churches.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey are building Dagmawi Lalibela (which means the second Lalibela). Work &ndash; which is all being done by hand &ndash; started in 2010, and they have so far constructed seven monolithic churches. When completed, like Lalibela, the complex will consist of 11 rock-hewn churches. Abu Gebre Meskel Tesema, a solitary monk and hermit, rarely gives interviews, but he is on record as saying that one of the reasons he is constructing the churches is to prove wrong those who claim that the original Lalibela churches must have been built with foreign help.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6klgk"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Dagmawi Lalibela, Ethiopia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome of the reasons Tesema chose this site for the second Lalibela is because of the nearby presence of a source of holy water, and because there was already an unfinished cave church near the site, the construction of which has been attributed to King Lalibela himself. Alemu also says that the exposed cliff and rock face construction of churches makes them \"closer to God\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe overall style of Dagmawi Lalibela is very similar to the original, too. Both have bold, and sometimes colourful, carvings inside and out, One is even carved in the shape of a crucifix reminiscent of the Bete Giyorgis (Church of St George) at Lalibela.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6klgh"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Carved rock at Dagmawi Lalibela, Ethiopia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the Dagmawai Lalibela churches are considerably smaller than any of the Lalibela churches and the order of construction is also different. At the original Lalibela, both the interior and exterior of the churches are thought to have been carved at the same time while at Dagmawai Lalibela the churches are being constructed from the base up with the exterior carved out first.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6klg5"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Interior of Dagmawi Lalibela, Ethiopia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIncredibly, for the first year, Tesema worked completely alone. Today, though, two church deacons have joined him in his task. But, even so, the deacons only help him by clearing and removing rubble while Tesema does all the excavation and carving himself. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"While Tesema is working, he accepts no food and uses no artificial lighting,\" one of the deacons told me. \"When he is carving the interior of one of the churches, he is often doing it in near darkness.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6klg1"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Wheelbarrows at Dagmawi Lalibela site, Ethiopia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETesema purposefully uses only the most basic construction tools &ndash; just chisels and hammers &ndash; as well as building techniques from the time of King Lalibela, so no bricks, no mortar or timber. If that wasn't enough, there are no overall architectural plans, and all measurements are done by eye.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Alemu, using these traditional building techniques \"makes people feel more spiritually devoted\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6klfx"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Interior of Dagmawi Lalibela, Ethiopia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2018, the Ethiopian Orthodox church recognised Tesema's work and the churches were consecrated. Services are now regularly held here for the local community and visitors, and the dimly lit interiors are filled with religious paintings and objects (pictured).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe site can be easily visited as part of a half-day excursion from Lalibela; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tesfatours.com\u002F\"\u003ETesfa Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E operate a series of community-managed trekking guesthouses and linked walking trails on the escarpment just above Dagmawi Lalibela.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6kl96"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Painted carving on wall at Dagmawi Lalibela, Ethiopia","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith no more space on the rock face, Tesema has ceased most of his work at this site and is looking for another suitable nearby location where he can construct his final four churches. But even with this pause in proceedings, Tesema and the deacons aim to complete the project in the next few years. They hope that in hundreds of years, Dagmawi Lalibela will be regarded by visitors with the same sense of awe as the New Jerusalem is today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel&rsquo;s\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fin-pictures\"\u003EIn Pictures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E that highlights stunning images from around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-08-18T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Stunning photos of a new African wonder","headlineShort":"Stunning photos of a new African wonder","image":["p0g6km3w"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Bete Giyorgis church, Lalibela","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"12.0309","longitude":"39.0476","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-ethiopias-miraculous-underground-churches","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190520-the-sacred-forests-of-northern-ethiopia","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although many travellers will have heard of the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela in Ethiopia, few will know about the \"new Lalibela\" being carved out of the rockface by a devoted monk.","summaryShort":"Few travellers know about the \"new Lalibela\"","tag":["tag\u002Fchurches-temples","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-08-17T20:34:12.138946Z","entity":"article","guid":"4362f0b0-3b12-49b7-89fa-519d2ce68ef9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-17T20:34:12.138946Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230817-stunning-photos-of-a-new-african-wonder","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fethiopia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fafrica"],"destinationStat":"africa_ethiopia_africa","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442526},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire","_id":"64af34d8a471ef0d5632b6ac","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"To understand Azerbaijan, one must understand the nation's sacred relationship with fire stemming from its ancient Zoroastrian roots.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was around 04:00 when the iron pot filled with river water began steaming, heated by the high flames burning in the \u003Cem\u003Eateshgah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a \"fire temple\" outside the remote, mountainous village of Khinaliq.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo us, a group of hikers about to embark on a long, snowy climb towards the peak of Mount Aliyev in northern Azerbaijan, this ever-burning fire fuelled by methane gas escaping from a crack in the ground had gained something of a sacred status. Not only had it provided us warmth during a cold, wet spring night, but it also heated our breakfast tea. We contemplated its formlessness in silent reverence as we mentally prepared for the ascent to come.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom Khinaliq, a 2,000-person settlement perched 2,350m in the Greater Caucasus mountains, getting to the trailhead by the temple required an hour-long drive in the back of a Soviet GAZ truck. Much of the surrounding \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feco.gov.az\u002Findex.php?pg=86\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShahdag National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; a 130,508-hectare expanse of alpine meadows and towering peaks that's the largest national park in the Southern Caucasus &ndash; forms Azerbaijan's northern border with Russia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tents in the Shahdag National Park","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe rocky peaks pierced the clouds, forming a seemingly impenetrable wall. The region's rugged terrain and unpredictable climate have historically kept humans at a distance. Yet, the constantly burning flames we found ourselves staring into have been worshipped since long before hikers reached the rocky highlands of Azerbaijan's edge in search of sweeping views.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAzerbaijan is known as \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fazerbaijan.az\u002Fen\u002Finformation\u002F101\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe land of fire\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", thanks to its vast supplies of oil and natural gas. When Marco Polo visited the Eastern Caucasus in the 13th Century, he waxed lyrical about the region's natural \"oil fountains\" in his memoirs. The nation's abundant natural gas reserves have played a crucial role in its economic development over the past 150 years. Yet, fire has been deeply ingrained in Azerbaijani culture and mythology since \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Freligion\u002Freligions\u002Fzoroastrian\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZoroastrianism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the world's oldest monotheistic religions, took root in the area more than 3,000 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFire is central to Zoroastrianism, and the element represents the light, wisdom and truth of the one God who created the world: Ahura Mazda (Wise Lord). For Zoroastrians, fire bridges the spiritual and physical &ndash; a sacred channel through which mortal believers can connect to God and gain protection against the demonic forces that live in the darkness. No ritual is conducted without the presence of fire, and temples like that near Khinaliq are built to keep these sacred flames burning for faithful communities. In fact, some scholars believe that Azerbaijan's name could be a combination of the words \u003Cem\u003Eazar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"fire\", in Farsi) and \u003Cem\u003Ebaygan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"protector\") &ndash; or, rather: \"he who keeps the fire\".&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Azerbaijani historian and religious scholar Kazim Azimov, there are several reasons why Zoroastrianism took root here. Azerbaijan's strategic location along the Silk Road made it easy for Zoroastrian traders to come in contact with the local population. In addition, like Iran, where Zoroastrianism originated, Azerbaijan is blessed with an abundance of natural gas reserves, making it easy to maintain the religion's sacred flames.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A fire temple in Azerbaijan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the majority of Azerbaijanis are Muslims, but Zoroastrian beliefs, customs and traditions continue to be present in contemporary culture. Each year, to celebrate the coming of spring, Azerbaijan celebrates Nowruz (the Persian New Year). This tradition is shaped by Zoroastrian folklore, and Nowruz is one of Azerbaijan's biggest holidays.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"On Nowruz, we make fires in the yard,\" explained Ayshan Sharifova, a tour guide at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftestour.az\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETES Tour Baku\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"We bake \u003Cem\u003Eshekerbura\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, \u003Cem\u003Ebaklava\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, \u003Cem\u003Egoghal \u003C\u002Fem\u003E[pastries]. These are the sweets prepared specifically for Nowruz. Each one of them represents a different stage of nature's awakening during springtime: shekerbura is shaped like a crescent, baklava is shaped like a star and goghal is shaped like the sun.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Zoroastrian concept of renewal and its reverence towards nature remains strong in modern-day Azerbaijan. Nowruz falls on 21 March, but in Azerbaijan, unlike in Iran, celebrations take place throughout the four weeks preceding the holiday. \"Each of the four Tuesdays prior to the holiday represents one of the four elements: water, fire, wind and earth. People celebrate by dancing, singing and playing games,\" said Sharifova.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Zoroastrians, the renewal of nature following winter offers an opportunity for the renewal of the self. Fire is a useful tool for this purpose. All around Azerbaijan, bonfires are set ablaze in cities and villages and jumped over by those hoping to leave their misfortunes behind and start the new year fresh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Maiden's Tower in Baku","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaterial traces of Azerbaijan's Zoroastrian past are harder to come by. Some scholars believe that one of Azerbaijan's national icons, the 29m-tall Qız Qalası (Maiden's Tower) &ndash; a 12th-Century \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F958\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco-inscribed monument\u003C\u002Fa\u003E set in Baku's historical Old City &ndash; could have Zoroastrian origins. When standing under the tower, two different layers of bricks can be clearly seen, and some historians posit that the lower part of the building could have had a previous life as a \u003Cem\u003Edakhma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a Zoroastrian funerary tower, where dead bodies were purified through excarnation.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHuman remains would be placed above the towers and left for vultures to eat so the land would remain uncontaminated &ndash; another sacred element in Zoroastrianism. According to scholar and researcher \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.heritageinstitute.com\u002Fzoroastrianism\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKE Eduljee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, dakhmas were designed to ensure that corpses and their fluids don't come into contact with the earth or run into rivers, thereby polluting the soil and rivers and spreading disease. This practice developed in small mountain valleys where arable land was scarce and disease would decimate an entire village.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPersians made Zoroastrianism the official state religion in modern-day Azerbaijan in the 6th Century BCE and altars, temples and towers dotted much of the area until the end of the Sasanian Empire in the 7th Century AD. As Zoroastrianism spread across Asia and the Caucasus, thousands of fire temples were built to protect the religion's sacred flames. But as Islam took hold in the 7th century AD, many of these ritual spaces started to disappear.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Azerbaijan's population is predominantly Shia Muslim, but its two remaining ateshgah fire temples offer the best evidence of the nation's enigmatic Zoroastrian history. At Khinaliq, a small, stone pyramid stands on its rooftop and four open, arched entrances frame the green hills that rise into snowy peaks all around. The current structure is relatively recent &ndash; a sign points to its construction financed by London-based World Zoroastrian Organisation in 2016, on what are believed to be the ruins of a former altar local residents had always referred to as \"\u003Cem\u003Eateshgah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (literally: \"house of fire\" in Farsi).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Surakhani fire temple in Azerbaijan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAzerbaijan's best-known fire temple is the ateshgah of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fateshgahtemple.az\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESurakhani\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a popular tourist destination just east of Baku. It's no coincidence that the majority of its visitors today arrive from India. As Islam spread in the 7th Century, Zoroastrians in Iran and Azerbaijan became increasingly marginalised, forcing many to flee their homelands and settle in communities across Central and Southern Asia. Mumbai and the nearby Indian state of Gujarat became home to a large Zoroastrian population. Today, these Indian descendants who fled the Persian Empire after refusing to convert to Islam identify as Parsis and form the largest group of Zoroastrians in the world, with an estimated 60,000 adherents &ndash; nearly half of the global Zoroastrian community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike the ateshgah of Khinaliq, Surakhani was also erected centuries after Zoroastrianism declined in Azerbaijan, and was built around a naturally burning flame. When French novelist Alexander Dumas visited Baku in 1858, he noted that \"the whole world is aware of the Atashgah in Baku. My compatriots who want to see the fire-worshippers [a derogatory term among Zoroastrians] must be quick because already there are so few left in the temple, just one old man and two younger ones about 30-35 years old.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe structure, whose four arches open to an altar topped by a dome, dates to the 17th Century, when traders from the Indian subcontinent reached Azerbaijan via the Silk Road and stopped here during their journey. \"The temple and its surrounding caravanserai welcomed people from different faiths: Hindus, Sikhs and Zoroastrians had their prayer rooms, which are still visible today,\" said Sharifova. Zoroastrian architectural elements here blend with Sanskrit engravings dedicated to Shiva and Ganesha. This begs the question whether the temple should be considered Zoroastrian, Hindu or the result of historical interlacing of different creeds at the crossroads of Asia and Europe.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Azimov, the Indigenous Talysh people living in southern Azerbaijan along the Iranian border have the nation's closest ties to Zoroastrianism today. \"Fire is especially important as a sacred symbol in the south of Azerbaijan today, where the Iranian-speaking Talysh form the majority of the population. In this region, elements of nature (fire, water, rice, plants) are venerated more than elsewhere. In Soviet times, all religions were prohibited, [so] we should pay tribute to the Talysh people who, despite the ban on religion, continued to celebrate the sacred holiday of Nowruz in hiding, keeping alive Zoroastrians songs and chants.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Flame Towers in Baku, Azerbaijan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe fire inside Surakhani ateshgah stopped burning in the late 1960s, as its source of life &ndash; methane &ndash; was directed elsewhere. But in 1975, the castle-like site was reopened as a museum and its flames reignited once more, thanks to gas piped in from Baku.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince Azerbaijan gained independence in 1991 after the fall of the USSR, the country has sought to reclaim its identity and acknowledge its complex Zoroastrian roots. \"I believe that the Azeri people are still experiencing the influence of atheistic Soviet traditions and the historical hostility of Islam toward Zoroastrianism is still alive in the memory of the local population,\" said Azimov. \"In the Talysh communities, we have seen a renewed interest in Zoroastrian scripts in recent years. Elsewhere, the sacred fire of ancient Zorostrians has acquired a new secular meaning, impacting non-religious lifestyles and customs of contemporary Azerbaijanis, as seen during Nowruz.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter dragging ourselves through ankle-deep snow, my hiking partners and I eventually reached the 3,751m peak of Mount Aliyev six hours after setting out. After unfurling the Azerbaijan flag for a few photos, we began our descent before the weather turned.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack at our base camp, the flames inside the ateshgah continued to burn, despite the driving rain and wind. As we left, I looked back at the lonely temple and its ever-burning flame. Perhaps it can still function as a window into the multicultural past of a land forever at the crossroads of people, continents and faiths.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-13T20:51:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Azerbaijan: The Caucasus' 'Land of Fire'","headlineShort":"Azerbaijan's ever-burning fire temples","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A fire temple in Azerbaijan","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.1807","longitude":"48.1273","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"To understand Azerbaijan, one must understand the nation's sacred relationship with fire stemming from its ancient Zoroastrian roots.","summaryShort":"It dazzled Marco Polo, Alexander Dumas and centuries of travellers","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-12T23:18:31.463493Z","entity":"article","guid":"9bb5010f-61e0-4dfa-ad5c-e134167c7c51","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire","modifiedDateTime":"2023-07-13T08:32:53.1826Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442527},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation","_id":"64a4615ba471ef2ee00a78e0","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Insular and isolated, the autonomous republic of Nakhchivan is emerging as one of the world’s most sustainable places.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChances are you&rsquo;ve never heard of Nakhchivan. Jammed between Armenia, Iran and Turkey on the Transcaucasian plateau, this autonomous republic of Azerbaijan is one of the most isolated outposts of the former Soviet Union and a place few travellers ever visit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGeographically severed from its nation by an 80-130km strip of Armenia, this 450,000-person slice of Azerbaijan is the world&rsquo;s largest landlocked exclave, a Bali-sized amalgam of Soviet apartment blocks, gold-domed mosques and arid rust-red mountains wedged between the Black and Caspian seas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt&rsquo;s home to a towering mausoleum where the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fazerbaijan.travel\u002Fancient-noahs-ark-place-at-nakhchivan-city\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eprophet Noah\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is buried; a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fazerbaijan.travel\u002Fdiscover-legendary-alinja-castle\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emedieval mountaintop fortress\u003C\u002Fa\u003E which Lonely Planet dubbed the &ldquo;Machu Picchu of Eurasia&rdquo;; and an eerily clean capital where civil servants plant trees and sweep the streets on weekends. It also happened to be the first part of the crumbling Soviet Union to declare its independence &ndash; a couple of months before Lithuania &ndash; only to incorporate itself into Azerbaijan a mere fortnight later.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf course, I didn&rsquo;t know any of this before recently hopping the last of five 30-minute daily flights from Azerbaijan&rsquo;s oil-drenched capital, Baku, to Nakhchivan City, the region&rsquo;s eponymous capital.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It still remains relatively unknown to many in the Russian-speaking world and beyond","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the 15 years or so I&rsquo;ve spent travelling across the vast outer reaches of the former Soviet Union, I&rsquo;ve learned Russian, ventured to breakaway micronations like \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETransnistria\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and monitored elections in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. But a trip to Nakhchivan had always remained elusive. Because of Nakhchivan&rsquo;s unique position on the Soviet Union&rsquo;s frontier bordering NATO-member Turkey and Iran, it was something of a secretive exclave largely closed off even to most Soviet citizens. And 30 years after this autonomous republic broke free from the USSR, it still remains relatively unknown to many in the Russian-speaking world and beyond.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, anyone with an Azerbaijani visa can enter the region, and while it&rsquo;s a relatively safe place to visit, authorities continue to be on alert when outsiders show up, in part because very few foreigners do. After alighting from my Azerbaijan Airlines plane and shuffling past the immigration desks, a man whispered in my ear: &ldquo;The police&hellip; they&rsquo;re talking about you&rdquo;. &ldquo;How do they know who I am?&rdquo; I replied. &ldquo;They&rsquo;ve been told that the incoming British citizen is wearing bright red shorts.&rdquo; It seemed the airport in Baku had called ahead to inform security in Nakhchivan of my arrival, and my garish shorts most likely didn&rsquo;t help any attempt to blend in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You won&rsquo;t find a single piece of litter lying around Nakhchivan","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;You won&rsquo;t find a single piece of litter lying around Nakhchivan,&rdquo; my taxi driver-cum-tour guide Mirza Ibrahimov informed me, as we pushed out of Nakhchivan&rsquo;s impeccably tidy airport in his gleaming black Mercedes and drove through the spotless streets towards the region&rsquo;s second-largest city, Ordubad.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe was right: my first impression of the exclave was one of surreal, almost shocking, cleanliness. I wanted to ask how the streets, squares and Soviet-era housing complexes we passed remained so tidy, but was distracted by a soaring octagonal pinnacle graced with tiled Islamic geometric patterns in the distance, which Ibrahimov explained holds a special place in the hearts of local residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENoah&rsquo;s Tomb is one of at least five final resting places of the prophet scattered around the world, but don&rsquo;t tell that to the Nakhchivanis who proudly refer to their motherland as the &ldquo;land of Noah&rdquo;. Some scholars say the name &ldquo;Nakhchivan&rdquo; is a combination of two Armenian terms, which together mean &ldquo;place of descent&rdquo;, while many Azerbaijanis claim it comes from \u003Cem\u003ENakh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (&ldquo;Noah&rdquo;) and \u003Cem\u003Echivan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (&ldquo;place&rdquo;, meaning &ldquo;Noah&rsquo;s place&rdquo;) in ancient Persian languages.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to local legend, when the great flood receded, Noah&rsquo;s ark is said to have landed atop nearby Mount Ilandag, carving out the defined cleft seen on the peak today. Many Nakhchivanis will tell you that the prophet and his followers lived the rest of their days here, and that they are their descendants. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, a few days after Ibrahimov pointed to the mountain&rsquo;s perforated peak and emphatically recounted that the ark&rsquo;s hull smashed into the submerged summit, an elderly man on a park bench in Ordubad beckoned me over out of the blue, surely detecting I was a foreigner. &ldquo;There, on top of \u003Cem\u003Ethat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E mountain, \u003Cem\u003Ethat&rsquo;s\u003C\u002Fem\u003E where Noah&rsquo;s ark grounded itself,&rdquo; he said, pointing with his cigarette.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENakhchivan may be synonymous with Noah, but in the 7,500 or so years since the prophet and his followers descended from Mount Ilandag (or nearby Mount Ararat, depending on whom you ask), their descendants have passed under Persian, Ottoman and Russian rule to form something of a majority Muslim melting pot. In recent decades, an ongoing land dispute with Armenia has remained one of post-Soviet Europe&rsquo;s last &ldquo;frozen conflicts&rdquo;.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 1988, as Moscow was losing its grip over its constituent republics, war erupted in Nakhchivan&rsquo;s neighbouring enclave \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-18270325\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENagorno-Karabakh\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in south-western Azerbaijan between ethnic Armenians backed by Armenia and Azerbaijan. As many as 30,000 people died before an unsteady ceasefire was finally struck in 1994. In retaliation, the ethnic Armenian majority controlling the territory closed all railways and roads linking Nakhchivan to the rest of Azerbaijan and the USSR in 1988. Only two small bridges built over the Aras River into Iran and Turkey saved Nakhchivan from starvation and total collapse.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tiny 'country' between England and Scotland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200205-celebrating-a-nation-that-doesnt-exist\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECelebrating a nation that doesn't exist\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171022-in-search-of-russias-lost-gold\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIn search of Russia's lost gold\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, Nakhchivan&rsquo;s blockaded residents developed an unwavering sense of self-sufficiency born from scarcity and necessity. Unwilling to remain economically reliant on bridges and neighbours, Nakhchivanis began planting their own food and producing their own goods. And since the rise of Azerbaijan&rsquo;s second oil surge in 2005 and its subsequent \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.statista.com\u002Fstatistics\u002F457496\u002Fgross-domestic-product-gdp-in-azerbaijan\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esoaring GDP\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, increased investment from Baku has seen the seeds of this self-sufficient &ldquo;national&rdquo; mentality blossom into a fascinating case study in sustainability.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Today, this Azerbaijani exclave is one of the world&rsquo;s few examples of a loose economic autarky","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, like North Korea, this Azerbaijani exclave is one of the world&rsquo;s few examples of a loose economic autarky, whereby a kingdom or country survives without much external assistance or international trade. But as I&rsquo;d come to learn, Nakhchivan&rsquo;s inward-looking economic policy has a surprising slow-food, organic and ecologically progressive bent &ndash; and it&rsquo;s become a source of pride that has shaped the region&rsquo;s identity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFood is venerated in Nakhchivan, and with good reason. &ldquo;We can eat like this because we can,&rdquo; Ibrahimov&rsquo;s friend Elshad Hasanov exclaimed over lunch one day near the Iranian border. He and Ibrahimov reminded me that memories of food shortages are still raw, but since breaking from Soviet policies of economic dependence, Nakhchivan has adopted a strict no-pesticide, all-organic food policy. This health-conscious land-to-table ethos ensures that the Balbas breed of sheep you&rsquo;re eating come from Nakhchivani farms; the fish from Nakhchivani lakes; the wild dill, aniseed terragon and sweet basil from&nbsp;Nakhchivani foothills; the produce from Nakhchivani orchards and even the salt from underground Nakhchivani caves. &nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESoon, our table groaned under an entire carcass of tender lamb. This was accompanied by platters of vegetable-seared mangal salads, cheeses, lavash flatbreads, kebabs, freshly caught trout, beer and vodkas infused with a selection of the 300 herbs grown in the nearby mountains &ndash; each offering a natural remedy for one ailment of another.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked about the motive behind Nakhchivan&rsquo;s organic, locavore movement, Hasanov cited wellbeing. &ldquo;Our people are healthy, and we don&rsquo;t suffer from the same ailments as before, because we only eat what is natural,&rdquo; he said. As I listened, I bit into a large plum tomato and a fresh burst of sweetness filled my mouth. It was, undoubtedly, the best tomato I had ever tasted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENakhchivan&rsquo;s health kick doesn&rsquo;t stop at GMO-free crops. Fourteen kilometres outside Nakhchivan City is \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.duzdag.com\u002Fen\u002Fduzdag-cave\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDuzdag Salt Cave\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an impressive, no-expenses-spared sanatorium built deep inside a former Soviet salt mine. The cave&rsquo;s website assures medical tourists that the complex&rsquo;s 130m tonnes of pure natural salt can cure a whole range of respiratory illnesses, from asthma to bronchitis.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Residents are also encouraged to plant trees when they&rsquo;re not working or sweeping up the streets","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENakhchivan&rsquo;s 30-degree heat evaporated as Ibrahimov and I descended into the dark, chilly grotto. Ibrahimov, a heavy smoker and a convert to the benefits of spleotherapy, or &ldquo;cave therapy&rdquo;, inhaled deeply. &ldquo;We&rsquo;ve had visitors come here from all over the world,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;One guy from Uruguay who had suffered from bad asthma came last year and left cured.&rdquo; Just then a group of young schoolchildren and their teachers checked in to spend the night in the cave soaking up the salt and silence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBack above ground, I was determined to get to the bottom of the capital&rsquo;s obsession with cleanliness. By all accounts, Nakhchivan is considered the cleanest city in Azerbaijan, if not the whole of the Caucasus, and for good reason. Everywhere you look, the motorways are perfectly paved, the streets immaculately swept, the trees neatly trimmed and the weeds swiftly pulled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nhc.no\u002Fcontent\u002Fuploads\u002F2018\u002F10\u002FAzerbaijan_final_version.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edetailed report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published by the Norwegian Helsinki Committee, much of this achievement is down to the exclave&rsquo;s public-sector employees &ndash; such as teachers, soldiers, doctors and government workers &ndash; who volunteer to clean the streets on their days off.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat&rsquo;s more, in an effort to replenish the forests that were burned for fuel during the blockade, residents are also encouraged to plant trees when they&rsquo;re not working or sweeping up the streets. This practice is rooted in a Soviet-era practice called \u003Cem\u003Esubbotnik\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: a now archaic concept of voluntarily, unpaid labour. Or as described by some during Soviet days, work in &ldquo;a voluntary-compulsory way\".&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne Saturday morning during my visit, Ibrahimov stopped his Mercedes and pointed at verdant fields in the near distance. Under an unforgivingly bright sun, small groups of people were huddled together. &ldquo;They&rsquo;re planting fruit trees,&rdquo;he said. On the surface, the practice of subbotnik seems altruistic enough: with each tree planted, the exclave&rsquo;s lungs expand and grow stronger, while increasing the region&rsquo;s supply of its much-cherished fruits.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, according to the same Norwegian Helsinki Committee report, anyone who objects to this &ldquo;volunteer&rdquo; work must resign from their state job immediately, one employee of Nakhchivan&rsquo;s Ministry of Economic Development admitted. A Nakhchivan State University professor acknowledged that Vasif Talibov, the current head of Nakhchivan and considered by many as an authoritarian ruler, is gaining tremendous income from this free labour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Nakhchivan is a puzzle that I couldn&rsquo;t solve","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy the end of my visit, I began to wonder if Nakhchivan&rsquo;s clean, green image is somewhat akin to a place like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fworklife\u002Farticle\u002F20181025-the-cost-of-keeping-singapore-squeaky-clean\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESingapore\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where public tidiness is driven by a mixture of low-cost labour and fear of governmental repercussions. Nakhchivan is a puzzle that I couldn&rsquo;t solve: is it a progressive and self-sufficient exclave populated by altruistic volunteers, a carefully staged hermit fiefdom or a complex combination of the two?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat is certain is that this insular exclave felt like nowhere I had ever been before: a former &ldquo;secretive&rdquo; USSR stronghold where young people still whisper to one another at restaurants to avoid being overheard but boldly boast of the progressive virtues of farm-to-table cuisine to outsiders; where civil servants carry out unpaid manual labour on weekends despite living in a nation whose GDP has skyrocketed more than 300% in the last 15 years; and whose residents proudly tie their cultural identity to a prophet who sailed in from afar but whose local government now walls itself in.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI&rsquo;m not sure what the future may hold in this confounding beacon of locavore-loving isolationists, but I hope they&rsquo;ll keep their doors open so I can find out for myself.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation-26"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-22T21:12:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Nakhchivan: The world’s most sustainable ‘nation’?","headlineShort":"The world’s most self-reliant 'nation'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Insular and isolated, the autonomous republic of Nakhchivan is emerging as one of the world’s most sustainable places.","summaryShort":"This locavore lover's paradise could be the planet’s next great food destination","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:52:33.890999Z","entity":"article","guid":"9bf4111e-370f-42f0-9019-85f192491a05","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:12:55.97316Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442527},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation","_id":"64a46161a471ef2e902571c6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Along a single road cutting across the heart of Iraq, you can see where people first learned to write, use maths and invent the wheel.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"This is not a scenic drive,\" said James Willcox, of adventure travel specialist \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Funtamedborders.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUntamed Borders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"But what's incredible about Route 1 is where it takes you: to the birthplace of some of the world's earliest civilisations, the home of many of humankind's greatest innovations.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWillcox, who was charged with logistics and security for my journey, was briefing me before I embarked on a 530km, two-day road trip from Basra to Baghdad. My trip would be using Iraq's first and longest freeway, the 1,200km-long Route 1, as a conduit to explore the heart of ancient Mesopotamia. Though the region has experienced decades of recent \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Ftopics\u002Fcvenzmgyljrt\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econflict\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it was also once home to a series of illustrious historical empires (the Babylonians, Assyrians and Sumerians to name a few), and Willcox reassured me that the journey would be unforgettable so long as I followed some simple rules: \"Keep a low profile, dress conservatively and don't photograph any of the armed checkpoints,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI flew into Basra, Iraq's largest port. The city straddles the Shatt al-Arab river, which is formed by the confluence of the Tigris and Euphrates &ndash; the two mighty waterways that inspired the name Mesopotamia (meaning \"between two rivers\" in Greek).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was from Basra that the fictional mariner Sinbad the Sailor set out on his voyages to supernatural realms in Arabian Nights. By comparison, the start of my own journey was far more mundane. After I met my driver, we joined Route 1 on the outskirts of the city and spent the first two hours stuck in heavy traffic crossing desolate landscapes dotted with oil fields firing gas flares into the skies. But after 150km, the desert eventually turned to green as we veered off the highway and entered the vast wetlands of Al-Ahwar, or the Marshes. Regarded by some as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-middle-east-36823417\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe site of the Biblical Garden of Eden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, these southern Iraqi marshes are one of the world's largest inland delta systems, and have been slowly recovering since Saddam Hussein ordered them drained in the 1990s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere, in the town of Chibayish, fisherman Razaq Abu Haida was waiting for me on the dock sporting a traditional black-and-white chequered \u003Cem\u003Ekeffiyeh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E headdress. He fired up the outboard motor and we puttered off together into the labyrinth of shallow lagoons lined with bulrushes and papyrus where the Ma'dan, or Marsh Arabs, have lived for more than 5,000 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENear a wallowing water buffalo, we pulled up at the \u003Cem\u003Emudhif\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (reed house) of the Alahwary family, one of just 25 families now living in the marshes near Chibayish. Razaq, the father, helped moor the boat while his wife, Naima, brought us drinks. \"Milk, fresh from the udder,\" she said, handing out cups of the warm, frothy liquid, complete with thick black buffalo hairs that had fallen into the urn. The couple told me they pass their days rearing buffalo, fishing for carp, baking bread over dung fires and scything reeds for housebuilding and thatching. Despite many people leaving for a more modern life in nearby towns such as Chibayish and Nasiriyah, they said they were happy with their simple existence, which had changed little since the Marsh Arabs settled the area and traded with the great city-states of the Sumerians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Sumerians were Mesopotamia's earliest-known civilisation, credited with such inventions as the wheel, sail, plough, mathematics, hydraulic engineering and writing. According to Lanah Haddad, an archaeologist at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tarii.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETARII\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (The Academic Research Institute in Iraq), the Sumerians' settling in the east of the Fertile Crescent was key to their success: the area's rich soils not only provided people with plentiful food, which allowed them free time to innovate, but the region's location between Africa, Asia and Europe enabled them to dominate world trade. \"From 5,000 BCE up to the Mongol conquest in the 13th Century, this was the hub for the movement of all goods, and they became very rich and powerful as a result,\" Haddad said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHaddad also explained that unlike other civilisations, the Sumerians \"didn't destroy the achievements of those they had conquered\", but instead \"respected their discoveries and improved upon them\". The Sumerians' \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fbusiness-39870485\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecuneiform writing system\u003C\u002Fa\u003E enabled them to record and share this knowledge, which, Haddad said \"gave rise to the first, systematically collected and catalogued library in the ancient Middle East (the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britishmuseum.org\u002Fblog\u002Flibrary-fit-king\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoyal Library of Ashurbanipal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), and one of the earliest forms of written law: the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcollections.louvre.fr\u002Fen\u002Fark:\u002F53355\u002Fcl010174436\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECode of Hammurabi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Code's system of 282 laws arose during the reign of King Hammurabi (1792-1750 BCE), who helped turn Babylon into Mesopotamia's greatest city-state. From the Marshes, my driver and I rejoined Route 1 for the three-hour drive north-west to the ruins of this fabled city. Babylon became the largest city in the world under King Nebuchadnezzar II, who oversaw construction of its legendary Hanging Gardens (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World), the Etemenanki ziggurat (popularly known as the Tower of Babel) and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20150302-ancient-babylons-greatest-wonder\"\u003EIshtar Gate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the modern-day entry point to the historic city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERichly decorated with glazed-brick reliefs of dragons, oxen and chamomile flowers (an emblem of the Babylonian empire, believed to cure everything from wrinkles to male impotence), the gate's foundations are original, while the upper part was taken away in the 19th Century to Berlin's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.smb.museum\u002Fmuseen-einrichtungen\u002Fpergamonmuseum\u002Fhome\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPergamon Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and eventually replaced with a garish reproduction as part of Hussein's heavy-handed reconstruction of the site.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the main part of the city, after mud bricks were discovered etched with Nebuchadnezzar's name, the former dictator ordered new brick walls be built atop the 2,500-year-old foundations, bearing a message that read: \"In the reign of the victorious Saddam Hussein&hellip; may God keep him the guardian of the great Iraq and the renovator of its renaissance and the builder of its great civilisation.\" Hussein's initials and image were also used to embellish a monolithic palace he built on a hilltop overlooking Babylon (one of 100 luxury residences he owned), with staff on standby around the clock in case he decided to spend the night. (He never did.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy driver and I spent the evening in far less opulent circumstances, enjoying warm Iraqi hospitality and \u003Cem\u003Emalfouf betinjan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (meat-stuffed aubergine rolls, slow-cooked in tomato sauce) with our guesthouse owners. Awoken the next morning by the muezzin's call to prayer, we set off early for the city of Karbala, 65km away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EConsidered one of the holiest sites in Shia Islam, Karbala is home to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fimamhussain.org\u002Fenglish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShrine of Imam Hussain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (grandson of the Prophet Muhammad), and that of his half-brother \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fimamhussain.org\u002Fenglish\u002F18010\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbbas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. These sacred sites attract up to 40 million pilgrims a year, and visiting them is believed to be of great spiritual benefit for both the living and the dead. (Both are accessible to non-Muslims.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside the glittering prayer hall of Hussain's shrine, I watched as a procession of pallbearers ferried coffins in and out to be blessed before internment, part of an organised burial trade known as \"corpse traffic\". The business is said to have begun as early as the 16th Century, when Shiite corpses were carried by mule caravan from as far away as India and Iran in order to be buried in close proximity to these hallowed figures. Nowadays, the bodies come overland and by airplane before making their way to the cemetery of Karbala or Iraq's other great shrine city, Najaf, which is 75km to the south and reached via a diversion along Route 8.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEstablished more than 1,400 years ago, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-middle-east-36688600\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENajaf's Valley of Peace Cemetery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has grown to become the largest in the world, the resting place of some six million bodies, the majority of whom are Shia Muslims. \"The birds taught Muslims to bury the bodies, not cremate them,\" said Karrar Ayad, one of 600 cemetery keepers who manage the site, as he repaired the stonework on a family crypt in the heart of the sprawling necropolis. \"After Cain killed Abel, a bird used its wing to cover him with dust and stones.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAyad also explained that after a burial, it is believed two angels descend to test the faith of the dead in their tombs; the righteous will go to heaven, but sinners are punished by the angels every day (except Fridays) until Allah deems otherwise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFaced with such a potentially terrifying afterlife, I asked one family of cemetery visitors, who were washing a relative's grave nearby with rosewater, if Shias typically feared death. \"The rich do, only because they don't want to let go of their possessions,\" said Zainab Al-Hakim. \"Maybe the poor desire it to escape their misery. But most of us don't; we believe that your day is your day, whenever that may be.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELeaving Najaf, we drove east for an hour to rejoin Route 1. After 160km, the dusty suburbs of the Iraqi capital came into view and we turned off towards its historic centre. Greeted by a sign that read, \"Welcome to Baghdad, City of Peace\", we looped around the striking \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Falshuhadaa.gov.iq\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMartyr Monument\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, built to honour the fallen of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-34353349\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIran-Iraq war\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which stands rather incongruously next to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sindbadland.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESinbad Land Theme Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. By the shores of the River Tigris, we parked up in the old city, the heart of a once-great trading network whose caravan routes and maritime Silk Roads linked cities of the ancient world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI wandered into the 1,000-year-old \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Firaq.un.org\u002Fen\u002F180203-baghdad-iraq-grand-old-majestic-souq-al-safafeer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAl-Safafeer souq\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The ancient coppersmith market takes its name, \"\u003Cem\u003Esafafeer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" from the onomatopoeic word for a hammer tapping on copper &ndash; a sound that has dimmed in recent years. \"Before, there were 126 craft shops, now no more than 16,\" said fifth-generation coppersmith Amir Sayed Al-Saffar, as he crafted the handle onto a traditional coffee pot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAl-Saffar told me that Baghdad's trade in intricate copperwares had dwindled as cheaper alternatives from China and India had flooded the marketplace. \"It saddens me, but this has always been the way since the olden days,\" he said. \"New political and economic powers take over, one after the other. It is simply another page turning in the history book of Iraq.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAl-Saffar's words were a fitting end to my journey along Iraq's illustrious Route 1. The mighty Mesopotamian empires the highway connects may have risen, fallen and ultimately turned to dust, but their milestone contributions to humankind still resonate across the centuries, and across the wider world, to this very day.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eis a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E--\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-25T10:08:15Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A road trip across the cradle of civilisation","headlineShort":"A drive into the cradle of civilisation","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"30.508102","longitude":"47.783489","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Along a single road cutting across the heart of Iraq, you can see where people first learned to write, use maths and invent the wheel.","summaryShort":"This area gave rise to a series of empires that forever changed the world","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-24T23:08:38.573137Z","entity":"article","guid":"d9cbdeed-e19d-496a-8dd9-61f81963a13d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation","modifiedDateTime":"2023-06-21T15:10:38.109136Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442534},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital","_id":"64dd3517a471ef0d62167ea6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsimon-urwin"],"bodyIntro":"This under-the-radar city once produced some of the finest silks in the world. Now, it's considered Azerbaijan's cultural and culinary capital.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"For many, the Silk Road is synonymous with the cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva in Uzbekistan,\" said my guide, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Finstagram.com\u002Fcaucasianguide\"\u003EHabil Gudratli\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"But Azerbaijan was also home to key hubs on the trade routes linking Asia with Europe; one of these was the city of Sheki, which grew from a trading post to become a leading international centre for the silk trade.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome 300km north-west of Azerbaijan's glittering capital, Baku, the small city of Sheki lies near the border with Russia and Georgia in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus mountains. Here, forests of oak, walnut and beech flourish, as does the white mulberry tree, whose leaves are fed to silkworms to produce the highly coveted fabric.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESheki came to prominence in the mid-1700s when rulers (khans) made it the capital of their khanate. There is evidence of sericulture (silkworm breeding and silk production) in the region dating back to the 6th Century, but it was the Sheki khans who turned it into a thriving business. \"By the 18th and 19th Centuries, Sheki silk was considered amongst the finest in the world,\" said Gudratli. \"The wealthy elite as far away as China and Japan purchased it not only for its quality and beauty but for the hygiene and comfort, because lice don't live in silk like they do in other materials.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6vp7l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Sheki, Azerbaijan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Sheki khans ruled this region of the Caucasus until 1819, and their flourishing political and trading empire was headquartered in a fortress complex embellished with gardens, fountains and marble water pools, said to resemble a kind of Caucasian \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20170817-the-secret-world-of-granadas-alhambra-palace\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlhambra\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The citadel's walls are still standing, but only one of the original 30 or so buildings inside remains: the Unesco-inscribed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fazerbaijan.travel\u002Ftake-tour-khans-palace-sheki\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESheki Khan's Palace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a former summer residence and administrative building.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDesigned to impress visiting dignitaries, the magnificent two-storey palace, with its vivid paintings of strutting peacocks and flower-breathing dragons, took two years to construct (the stonework originally held together with egg white) and a further eight to decorate. In the palace's rose garden, Gudratli introduced me to researcher Zamina Rasulava, who has spent more than 20 years studying its lavish ornamentation.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELeading me through one extravagant room after another, she highlighted the pomegranate as one of the most important recurring motifs. \"In Islam, which arrived [in Sheki] in the 8th Century, the pomegranate is the king of all paradise fruits because its calyx resembles a crown,\" she said. She went on to explain that for the Sheki khans, it also symbolised government. \"The ruby-red seeds represent the people; the pith separates them into their different regions, cultures and ethnic groups. If they are brought together by good governance, then there is unity, which in turn bears rich fruit.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe palace's most distinctive feature is its vast \u003Cem\u003Eshebeke\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (decorative windows made without glue or nails). Rasulava told me that each square metre consists of more than 5,000 pieces of wood and coloured glass, the latter brought along trade routes from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220317-venices-unbreakable-women-of-glass\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMurano\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, near Venice, and exchanged for silkworms and cocoons. \"Sheki silkworms were in demand globally,\" Rasulava explained. \"Not only in Italy, but \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180906-lyons-secret-labyrinth-an-ingenious-escape-route\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELyon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (France's greatest silk centre), and even in silk's motherland, China, because they were more resilient in cold weather than any other.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6vpg9"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Khan's Palace in Sheki, Azerbaijan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs Sheki prospered, artisans from the region came to trade with the silk merchants, including carpet weavers, \u003Cem\u003Etekeldus\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fazerbaijan.az\u002Fen\u002Frelated-information\u002F50\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echain stitch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) embroiderers, coppersmiths, potters, milliners and shoemakers. Sheki became renowned as a leading centre for the arts and crafts, a reputation it still holds to this day. Meanwhile, the boom in caravan traffic led to the building of five caravanserais, two of which have survived. Public squares were constructed, along with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsheki-heritage-org-az.translate.goog\u002Fheritage\u002F16?_x_tr_sl=az&amp;_x_tr_tl=en&amp;_x_tr_hl=en&amp;_x_tr_pto=sc\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehammams\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, major roads and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fazerbaijan.travel\u002Fkhan-mosque-exhibits-shekis-regal-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKhan Mosque\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the city's first Friday mosque, known as a Juma. (Friday is the holiest day of the week for Muslims when they are obliged to attend a special noon service.)&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Khan Mosque is open to the public, and Gudratli had arranged for an audience with the current imam, Habil Khalilov, who greeted me by anointing me with \u003Cem\u003Egulab\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a purifying rosewater. \"Gulab represents the Prophet Muhammed,\" said Khalilov, while he dabbed my eyebrows with the heavily scented liquid. \"The Prophet believed the eyebrows to be special because they are among the first hairs to appear on a baby and are therefore symbolic of new life.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKhalilov invited me to sit with him in the prayer hall, where he said non-believers were most welcome. \"Even though more than 96% of the population of Azerbaijan is Muslim, it remains a secular country,\" he said. \"You'll find \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emany religions here\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; it's a uniquely tolerant and multicultural place.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe told me how the building was constructed between 1769-1770 from river stones, baked bricks, and pistachio, walnut and plane wood. It once featured its own ornate shebeke windows and was the main mosque in a city where each of the 32 historical neighbourhoods had its own dedicated place of worship.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6vpps"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Imam praying inside the Khan Mosque in Sheki, Azerbaijan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"In ancient times, Sheki was known as 'Bala Istanbul', or Little Istanbul, because there were so many mosques,\" he said. \"Just seven now remain; some were lost to earthquakes and mudslides, but the majority were destroyed when Russian Bolsheviks invaded and occupied Azerbaijan.\" Azerbaijan was a constituent republic of the USSR between 1922-1991, and atheism was the official doctrine.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Khalilov excused himself to prepare for the lunchtime prayer, he touched his heart and lowered his head as a farewell, telling me that I should take time to explore Sheki's culinary traditions, many of which are intertwined with the ancient silk trade routes.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo sample some local dishes, Gudratli took me to Ilhama Tea House, where Shukufa Hamidova was making fresh compote (a drink traditionally served with every meal) in the kitchen from blackberries, geranium leaf and lots of sugar.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Sheki people are known for their sweet tooth,\" she said. \"We once used honey until sugarcane arrived from Persia. Nowadays it's something of an addiction; we love to eat \u003Cem\u003Ebamya\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fluted doughnut fingers), \u003Cem\u003Emindal \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(caramel-coated nuts) and \u003Cem\u003Ehalva\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a spiced, hazelnut baklava). All that sugar is said to sweeten our mood too; we are famous for our good sense of humour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6vpxp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Woman preparing compote drink in Sheki, Azerbaijan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother delicacy to arrive from Persia along the Silk Road was saffron, a key ingredient in \u003Cem\u003Epiti\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a local speciality and one of the nation's most popular dishes. Fellow cook Shahla Bashirova arrived at our table next with two \u003Cem\u003Edopu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (clay pots) filled with the slow-cooked stew of lamb, chickpeas, saffron and lamb-tail fat. Unctuous and hearty, the name piti is said to be derived from an old Turkic word which means \"the end of need to eat any more food\".&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was perfect to serve to the manual labourers who worked for the silk merchants and the khans,\" said Bashirova. \"The combination of meat and carbohydrates gave them energy to work all day long on just one meal.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe finished lunch with black tea served in \u003Cem\u003Earmudu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (pear-shaped glasses). Gudratli showed me how to drink it local style by first dunking a sugar cube and sucking it before sipping the brew &ndash; a tradition thought to have been initiated by the khans. Sweet tea also plays an important role in Azerbaijani wedding negotiations. Gudratli told me that in rural areas, if a girl's family serve tea without sugar to her potential parents-in-law, it's a sign that they do not want the marriage to proceed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6vpyg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Piti served in Sheki, Azerbaijan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKeen to see what remained of the silk trade, we set off, driving past the last-remaining silk factory (which dates back to the Soviet era) to the workshop of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fkalagayici_Ziya\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmiraslan Shamilov\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an eighth-generation \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fich.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002FRL\u002Ftraditional-art-and-symbolism-of-kelaghayi-making-and-wearing-women-s-silk-headscarves-00669\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ekelaghayi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (decorated silk headscarf) maker, a handicraft inscribed on Unesco's Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a centuries-old artform that deserves recognition,\" said Shamilov, who was heating up \u003Cem\u003Epasab\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (an oily paste) in a cauldron when we arrived. \"Kelaghayi are much more than a fashion item or a reflection of faith,\" he said. \"They are part of our national identity.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShamilov explained that they were once so important a woman could break up a street fight simply by taking off her headscarf and throwing it among the aggrieved parties, and that kelaghayi were also used as a kind of coded language. \"Widows wore black; pregnant women wore green to let others know to take care around them, and single ladies wore rose-pink to let gentlemen know they were open to marriage.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Shamilov began wood-stamping patterns on a rectangle of fabric, I asked him how he felt about running the last independent kelaghayi workshop in a city where there were once dozens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g6vq0d"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A kelaghayi shop in Sheki, Azerbaijan","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The silk trade has dwindled, but Unesco's recognition of our handicrafts and buildings helps preserve them for the future,\" he said. \"Besides, Sheki's reputation as Azerbaijan's cultural and culinary capital has brought an influx of travellers and different kinds of trades to the city. The old Silk Road has been replaced by a new one: global tourism.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-08-17T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Sheki: The Caucasus' unsung culture capital","headlineShort":"The Caucasus' unsung culture capital","image":["p0g6vnx0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Shebeke windows inside the Khan’s Palace, Sheki, Azerbaijan","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.1975","longitude":"47.1571","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-azerbaijan-the-caucasus-land-of-fire","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200721-nakhchivan-the-worlds-most-sustainable-nation","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This under-the-radar city once produced some of the finest silks in the world. Now, it's considered Azerbaijan's cultural and culinary capital.","summaryShort":"It once produced some of the finest silks in the world","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-08-16T20:43:50.30473Z","entity":"article","guid":"cffd6826-5ded-4361-a3bd-f05469b264b2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-16T20:43:50.30473Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230816-sheki-the-caucasus-unsung-culture-capital","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fazerbaijan","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_azerbaijan_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442527},"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:external:travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","_id":"64a461a7a471ef30a45bcadf","name":"World's Table","primaryVertical":"travel","sourceName":"Changing how the world thinks about food","sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","summaryLong":"BBC.com \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.","summaryShort":"World's Table","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"creationDateTime":"2022-02-23T14:52:13.800605Z","entity":"external","guid":"2ae4a402-4711-426f-adf7-a9b658a43fcd","id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T12:44:54.740029Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","image":["p09xq72k"],"promoImage":["p09xq72k"],"articleType":"external","headlineShort":"World's Table","promoAlignment":"center","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442527},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by","_id":"64a46156a471ef0d3e1f435b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"If Iceland were to have a national slogan, it would be ‘þetta reddast’, which roughly translates to the idea that everything will work out all right in the end.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAs people the world over are sheltering in place, many are looking to find comfort and contentment amid a very difficult situation. To help people cope, BBC Travel is updating some of our most popular stories on uplifting cultural practices around the globe that offer inspiring ways to find hope when times are tough.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWith generations of hardships such as formidable weather, poverty and volcanic eruptions, Icelanders have learned to adopt the&nbsp;resilient Icelandic outlook of \"&thorn;etta reddast\", which shows that sometimes, it&rsquo;s better to&nbsp;let go and look positively towards the future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWe were somewhere in the remote Westfjords, a large peninsula in Iceland&rsquo;s north-west corner, when our campervan first stalled. It was late September, the end of the tourist season in a part of Iceland that sees about 6% the country&rsquo;s annual tourist numbers, and the roads were all but empty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe van stalled twice more as my husband and I made the roughly 200km drive from L&aacute;trabjarg, a windswept bird cliff perched on the far western edge of Iceland, back to our base in &Iacute;safj&ouml;r&eth;ur, the Westfjords&rsquo; largest town (pop: 2,600). Once we finally got back to our apartment, we called the campervan rental company and told them the issue. Unfortunately, the town&rsquo;s mechanic wouldn&rsquo;t be available before we were due to make the drive back to Reykjavik.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Well,&rdquo; said the campervan agent, &ldquo;\u003Cem\u003E&thorn;etta reddast\u003C\u002Fem\u003E!&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180117-in-iceland-food-is-a-challenge-not-a-meal\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe planet&rsquo;s most extreme cuisine?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171015-why-norway-is-teaching-travellers-to-travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe code that travellers need to learn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170910-the-remote-ranch-at-the-bottom-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA strange life at the end of the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA quick Google search informed me that &thorn;etta reddast (pronounced \u003Cspan\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fi-heart-reykjavik\u002Ficelandic-phrase-of-the-issue?in=ayumi-akashi\u002Fsets\u002Fi-heart-reykjav-k\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethet-ta red-ust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E) doesn&rsquo;t mean &lsquo;sorry, I&rsquo;m not paid enough to care about your troubles&rsquo;, or &lsquo;try not to get stranded in the middle of nowhere&rsquo;. It means &lsquo;it&rsquo;ll all work out in the end&rsquo; &ndash; and if Iceland had an official slogan, this would be it. The phrase near-perfectly sums up the way Icelanders seem to approach life: with a laid-back, easy-going attitude and a great sense of humour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;It&rsquo;s just one of those ubiquitous phrases that is around you all the time, a life philosophy wafting through the air,&rdquo; said \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.aldasigmunds.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlda Sigmundsd&oacute;ttir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, author of several books about Iceland's history and culture. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s generally used in a fairly flippant, upbeat manner. It can also be used to offer comfort, especially if the person doing the comforting doesn&rsquo;t quite know what to say. It&rsquo;s sort of a catch-all phrase that way.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt first glance, it seems an odd philosophy for a place where, for centuries, many things absolutely did not work out all right. Since Iceland&rsquo;s settlement in the 9th Century, its history is littered with the tales of times when &thorn;etta reddast did not apply.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If Iceland had an official slogan, this would be it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn her book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.aldasigmunds.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fthe-little-book-of-the-icelanders-in-the-old-days\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Little Book of the Icelanders in the Old Days\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Sigmundsd&oacute;ttir recounts some of these hardships: the long winters; extreme poverty; indentured servitude. There were volcanic eruptions, like the 1783 Laki eruption that killed 20% of the 50,000-strong population, as well as 80% of its sheep, which were a vital food source in a country with little agriculture. There were storms that swept in and sank the open rowboats used for fishing, wiping out much of the male populations of entire towns. Things were so bad that even up through the 18th Century, according to Sigmundsd&oacute;ttir, 30% of babies died before they turned one.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Iceland of old was an exceptionally hard place to live. And the Iceland of old wasn&rsquo;t that long ago. &ldquo;It hasn&rsquo;t been that long since we were a society of farmers and fishermen, and the seasons and the harsh conditions we lived in had complete control over our lives,&rdquo; Au&eth;ur &Ouml;sp, founder and owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fiheartreykjavik.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EI Heart Reykjavik\u003C\u002Fa\u003E tour company, told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Iceland today is an ultra-modern place where wi-fi is abundant, credit cards are accepted everywhere, and the majority of the country is powered by geothermal energy, it was only about 90 years ago that 50% of the population lived in turf houses (traditional homes with walls and roofs made of earth and grass) &ndash; so these hardships aren&rsquo;t such a distant memory. Just 45 years ago, the Eldfell volcano exploded on the small island of Heimaey, spewing millions of tons of ash, engulfing 400 buildings and forcing the evacuation of all 5,000 people who lived there. And just 23 years ago, a massive avalanche decimated the town of Flateyri in the Westfjords, burying more than a dozen homes and killing 20 of the town&rsquo;s 300 residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EEven on a day without disasters, Iceland is beholden to the forces of nature. The island moves and breathes in a way few others do; fumaroles exhale steam; hot springs gurgle; geysers belch and bubble; waterfalls thunder. The country sits on the rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, and those plates are slowly moving apart, widening Iceland by about 3cm per year and causing an average of 500 small earthquakes every week.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Iceland is beholden to the forces of nature","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe country&rsquo;s weather is just as volatile and formidable. Windstorms can reach hurricane force, strong storms can sweep in even in summer, and, on the darkest winter days, the sun shines for just four hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Those who live off the land are in constant battle with the elements,&rdquo; &Ouml;sp said. &ldquo;For example, when it suddenly starts to snow in August, like it happened in the north a few years ago, you need to drop everything and go out and rescue your animals. Or, when there&rsquo;s a volcanic eruption that \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Feurope\u002F8634944.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edisrupts flights all over the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and leaves a bunch of people stranded in Iceland, you need to think on your feet and figure out what to do.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMaybe it makes sense, then, that in a place where people were &ndash; and still are &ndash; so often at the mercy of the weather, the land and the island&rsquo;s unique geological forces, they&rsquo;ve learned to give up control, leave things to fate and hope for the best. For these stoic and even-tempered Icelanders, &thorn;etta reddast is less a starry-eyed refusal to deal with problems and more an admission that sometimes you must make the best of the hand you&rsquo;ve been dealt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe phrase begins to be a little more understandable when you find out that the first Icelanders weren&rsquo;t marauding Vikings who bravely sailed across the ocean in search of new lands to raid and tribes to wage war upon. Rather, they were mostly Norwegian farmers and peasants fleeing slavery and death at the hands of King Harald Finehair in the 9th Century. They so feared his wrath that they risked the 1,500km journey across the rough North Atlantic seas in small open-hulled boats. It&rsquo;s hard to imagine those early settlers making the journey &ndash; one undertaken with no maps or navigational tools &ndash; without a little bit of blind hope.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;We couldn&rsquo;t live in this environment without a certain level of conviction that things will work out somehow, hard as they seem in the moment,&rdquo; &Ouml;sp said. &ldquo;&THORN;edda redast represents a certain optimism that Icelanders have and this carefree attitude that borders on recklessness. Sometimes it works out, sometimes it doesn&rsquo;t, but we don&rsquo;t let that stop us from trying.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"With the conditions we live under, we&rsquo;re often forced to make the impossible possible","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;It&rsquo;s not that we&rsquo;re impulsive or stupid,&rdquo; &Ouml;sp continued. &ldquo;We just believe in our abilities to fix things. With the conditions we live under, we&rsquo;re often forced to make the impossible possible.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd in many cases, Icelanders \u003Cem\u003Ehave\u003C\u002Fem\u003E made the impossible possible. They turned their stunning 2008 economic collapse and the disruptive 2010 eruptions of an unpronounceable volcano into PR opportunities that made Iceland one of the hottest destinations in the world, attracted millions of visitors and turned tourism into one of the main drivers of a now-robust economy. And in 2016, Iceland stunned the sporting world when it beat the odds to become the smallest country to ever qualify for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.uefa.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUEFA European Championship\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Iceland beat England to make it to the quarter-finals against France. And though there was little chance they&rsquo;d win, roughly 8% of the Icelandic population travelled to Paris to cheer on the team (they ultimately lost 5-2).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ficelandmag.is\u002Farticle\u002F45-icelanders-live-motto-thetta-reddast-quintessential-icelandic-credo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2017 University of Iceland survey \u003C\u002Fa\u003Eshowed that nearly half of Icelanders say &lsquo;&thorn;etta reddast&rsquo; is the philosophy they live by. Perhaps, as Sigmundsd&oacute;ttir and &Ouml;sp suggest, this idea that everything will work out has been infused into Icelandic culture through the centuries. After all, for those who survived &ndash; and even thrived &ndash; against all odds, everything kind of did work out all right in the end.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;This is just my home-grown theory,&rdquo; Sigmundsd&oacute;ttir said, &ldquo;but I think the Icelanders had to face so many hardships that they learned to meet adversity with a combination of \u003Cem\u003Elaissez-faire\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and capitulation. It&rsquo;s something that became ingrained in the Icelandic people through centuries of living with a climate and landscape that always had the upper hand, against which you had to surrender, again and again, because you couldn&rsquo;t fight them. It&rsquo;s difficult in Iceland not to feel your insignificance against the elements.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;I think this mentality shows that we have a belief in ourselves as a nation and as individuals,&rdquo; &Ouml;sp added. &ldquo;Who would have believed, for example, that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fsport\u002Ffootball\u002F41574208\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea team from a nation of 350,000 people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E could make it to the 2018 World Cup in Russia? We did &ndash; that&rsquo;s who.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt seems the Icelandic belief that things will turn out all right also comes with a little effort and ingenuity on the part of the believer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor my husband and I, that meant trusting that everything would work out on our drive back to Reykjavik. If the &lsquo;&thorn;etta reddast&rsquo; attitude could help Icelanders thrive on a barely inhabitable rock on the edge of the North Atlantic, surely the same optimism could see us through a few hundred kilometres of remote mountain passes in the unreliable van.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo, just like those early settlers who set sail from Norway, we set out with little assurances but a lot of hope. Of course, we had one major advantage: we had mobile phones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fwhy-we-are-what-we-are\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhy We Are What We Are\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series examining the characteristics of a country and investigating whether they are true.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-04-23T23:54:44Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The unexpected philosophy Icelanders live by","headlineShort":"The odd philosophy Icelanders live by","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"If Iceland were to have a national slogan, it would be ‘þetta reddast’, which roughly translates to the idea that everything will work out all right in the end.","summaryShort":"If Iceland were to have a national slogan, this would be it","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:18:35.889721Z","entity":"article","guid":"d0d3d04d-ceb7-4c47-adf3-43df1930814b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:30:46.379995Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442528},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano","_id":"64b9a468a471ef2ed22c8f69","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Antigua is Guatemala's most popular destination – but the picturesque city sits on an active tectonic zone. Travel photographer Bella Falk captures a slice of life.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAntigua, Guatemala, is a Unesco World Heritage city and the jewel in the country's crown. Smaller, safer and much less gritty than the capital, Guatemala City, Antigua is renowned for its picturesque streets lined with rainbow-painted colonial buildings, grand historic churches and convents, and a thriving cafe and restaurant scene. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAntigua's most famous landmark is the canary-yellow Santa Catalina arch, which dates to 1694. It was built to enable the nuns of the closed order of Santa Catalina to cross from their convent to the school on the other side of the street without being seen in public. Today it's the most photographed monument in the country and an icon of Guatemala. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAntigua's Central Park is the beating heart of the city. Enclosed on all four sides by elegant colonnades and 18th-Century buildings, it's a lively square where locals come to meet friends and relax. Here you get a clear sense of Guatemala's fusion of cultures: Indigenous Maya in traditional dress sit alongside denim-clad Guatemalans of European descent and visitors from around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUntil the 18th Century, Antigua, then known as Santiago, was Guatemala's capital and one of the greatest cities in the Spanish Empire. But the city sits on an active tectonic zone in the vicinity of four volcanoes: Agua, Fuego, Acatenango and Pacaya. In 1773, it was devastated by a major series of earthquakes, so the government decided to move the capital to its current location and the city became known as La Antigua Guatemala (The Old Guatemala). \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne of the hardest hit buildings was the magnificent former cathedral. Constructed in 1545, it stood for more than 200 years before being toppled by the earthquake. Today its roof is open to the elements, the collapsed remains of pillars and carvings are piled in the eerie side chapels and pigeons nest in the alcoves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow Antigua's enemies have become its friends: those same volcanoes that wreaked so much damage are major tourist draws. The star attraction is the 3,768m-tall Volcan de Fuego (Volcano of Fire), one of the world's most active. It has been constantly erupting since 2002, shooting incandescent lava bombs and clouds of ash into the air about every 15-30 minutes. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EVisitors who want to witness Earth's unstoppable power first-hand can hike up Volcan Acatenango, which stands right next to Fuego. Here, local tour companies offer overnight camping, so you can stay up late with a front-row seat to the action as Fuego explodes its red-hot guts into the night sky. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother agent of destruction-turned tourist attraction is Pacaya, about 50km from Antigua. Until 2021, it also erupted frequently, oozing sticky lava down its slopes. Today the eruptions have stopped, and guides like Rubi Santamaria take visitors to the freshly dried lava field, where she shows them how to toast marshmallows using the volcano's heat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel&rsquo;s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fin-pictures\"\u003EIn Pictures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series that highlights stunning images from around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-21T10:16:23Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"In Pictures: A city living under an active volcano","headlineShort":"A charming city with a dangerous side","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"14.5573","longitude":"-90.7332","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Antigua is Guatemala's most popular destination – but the picturesque city sits on an active tectonic zone. Travel photographer Bella Falk captures a slice of life.","summaryShort":"Stunning images show what life is like on the side of danger","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-20T21:17:10.577719Z","entity":"article","guid":"0c8ef2d3-235d-443a-86c1-9b86d81a5d5d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano","modifiedDateTime":"2023-07-21T09:12:53.94888Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442528},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism","_id":"64a4615fa471ef2ee31fe7e2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Despite the destruction of La Palma's recent volcanic eruption, which affected all the island's inhabitants, tourism is bringing new hope for those determined to rebuild.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-58779000\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecent 2021 volcanic eruption\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on La Palma in Spain's Canary Islands destroyed homes and businesses within minutes, residents are determined to rebuild. And one of the silver linings they see is through tourism. The lava has created some new beaches and natural sea pools on the rock, allowed vineyards to flourish and has attracted curious travellers from Spain and other parts of Europe and the UK.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor more on this and other stories, watch&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravelshow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThe BBC Travel Show\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E &ndash; every weekend on the BBC News Channel and BBC World News.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-18T20:15:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"La Palma: Where a volcano is good for tourism","headlineShort":"Where tragedy is good for tourism","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"28.6554858","longitude":"-18.1465865","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Despite the destruction of La Palma's recent volcanic eruption, which affected all the island's inhabitants, tourism is bringing new hope for those determined to rebuild.","summaryShort":"\"The volcano has hit us hard, but we are not defeated\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-17T20:33:09.283723Z","entity":"article","guid":"2486fce2-9d06-4a16-88df-f60f44baad0d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:42:05.846847Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442528},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano","_id":"64bf01a2a471ef0d556f4aa8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsophie-carr"],"bodyIntro":"On 10 July, a volcanic eruption near Litli-Hrútur in south-western Iceland saw fissures open up in the Earth – and the creation of a new \"baby volcano\".","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn the afternoon of 10 July, the Earth cracked open. Three fissures appeared north-east of the base of Litli-Hr&uacute;tur &ndash; a small mountain on the Reykjanes Peninsula in south-western Iceland &ndash; and began to spew molten lava high into the air accompanied by plumes of gas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIceland's latest eruption wasn't a total shock; Litli-Hr&uacute;tur (which translates to \"Little Ram\") is part of the Fagradalsfjall volcanic area that erupted in March 2021 and August 2022 after a break of almost 800 years, and the surrounding area had been shaking for several days with more than 12,000 earthquakes recorded prior the start of the eruption. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe fissures initially stretched more than 1km, spluttering three lines of red-hot lava into the air. Two of the fissures had closed by the following morning, with the lava then forced out from a single elongated active cone. This quickly grew to a large crater as the lava accumulated, creating what some are describing as \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.livescience.com\u002Fplanet-earth\u002Fvolcanos\u002Fearths-newest-baby-volcano-is-painting-icelands-fagradalsfjall-region-with-incandescent-lava\"\u003EEarth's newest baby volcano\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\". In just one week, the crater had grown to about 30m tall and continues to grow each day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2k3ql"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Drone photograph showing the erupting crater in the distance and the smouldering lava field","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe lava volume that was emitted on the first night was enormous (up to 50 cubic metres per second) and travelled in all directions, resulting in the dry moss that covers this barren landscape catching alight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStrong winds then spread the moss fires over a very wide area, and it was deemed too dangerous for visitors to the site for a few days due to a combination of gases from the volcano and noxious smoke from the moss fires. The local fire service used helicopters to directly drop two tonne batches of water on the fires as well as deliver tanks of water for local fire fighters to use at ground level. Eventually the fires were brought under control and the winds changed to a more north-westerly direction; on 17 July, a path was opened and visitors started flocking in to see this rare event up close.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2k3q2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"People hike to and from the volcano viewing point on Trail E","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccess to the volcano depends on the local conditions and changes day by day; local authorities \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitreykjanes.is\u002Fen\u002Fvolcano-eruption\u002Feruption-news\"\u003Eprovide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsafetravel.is\u002Feruption-in-reykjanes\u002F\"\u003Eupdates\u003C\u002Fa\u003E each day after they've assessed the conditions and suitability for people to visit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the moment, visitors are permitted to visit the site. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.co.uk\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FVolcano+Skali+Parking+P2\u002F@63.8566215,-22.2760615,1964m\u002Fdata=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0x48d61d2ca3160fbd:0xf7d0de03586eafe!8m2!3d63.8586865!4d-22.2786669!16s%2Fg%2F11t2z79y1c?entry=ttu\"\u003EA dedicated car park (P2)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has been created; from here you have to hike or cycle 9km along a mostly flat trail to a large viewing area, though the last kilometre is rocky. Once you get there you're just 1km from the erupting crater, which you can see through a strong heat haze. It is an incredible spectacle even from this distance, especially at night when the spurting lava fountains are more visible against the darker skies (although it doesn't get truly dark here until mid-August).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe trail is currently open from 09:00 to 18:00 and the round-trip hike takes at least five or six hours, including hiking time and time spent enjoying the view. It should only be attempted by those fit enough and prepared with appropriate hiking shoes, clothing and water. There are no facilities at the site, but Search &amp; Rescue teams are on hand in case of emergencies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2k3pm"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Drone photo showing a close-up of the lava flow","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccess to the viewing point may change over time as the geologists need to be satisfied that no new fissures will open before allowing visitors to get closer to the crater. In the early hours of 19 July, a large chunk of the crater collapsed, pouring lava very quickly over an area to the west of the crater, highlighting the importance of respecting this danger zone. During the 2021 eruption, there were many changes in the behaviour of the lava, with new fissures opening weeks after the initial one.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I visited the site, I met Jeroen Van Nieuwenhove, a Belgian professional photographer who lives in Iceland, at the edge of the lava field. He has been documenting the eruptions since the first Fagradalsfjall eruption in March 2021. He told me that visiting volcanic eruptions is always very special, and this year is no exception. \"Seeing a new landscape being created in front of your eyes is a privilege granted to very few people,\" he said. \"I am very happy that the eruption has happened in the most photogenic location in the area, with the picturesque pointed Keilir peak as a backdrop. Although the distance to get there is longer than in previous years and the hike is arduous, it's well worth it when you arrive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2k3pc"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"People view the crater erupting in the distance late into the night","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELaura Wainman, a PhD student at the School of Earth &amp; Environment at the University of Leeds studying the dispersion of environmentally reactive trace elements in volcanic plumes, was on a plane to Iceland \"within minutes of the eruption starting\". She is collecting samples from the volcanic plume as part of her research, which focuses on understanding the composition and size distribution of particles within the volcanic plume and how they are transported in the atmosphere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe explained that Iceland's latest eruption and creation of this new baby volcanic crater came as no surprise as the surrounding area had been shaking with strong earthquakes for six days and the magma was known to be very close to the surface. \"The earthquakes, which began this year on 4 July, were caused by a new magma intrusion in the area between Fagradalsfjall and Keilir, which is just to the north-east of the previous eruption sites in 2021 and 2022,\" Wainman said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2k3p7"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Drone view of the crater and lava flow, with Mt Keilir in the distance","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe slow-moving tongue of lava emitted from the crater is being slowly pushed downhill, creating majestic lava flows. There are different types of lava found in volcanic eruptions; the one here is a'a type, which is a basaltic lava characterised by a rough, brittle surface, composed of broken lava blocks called clinker. As it moves forward, chunks fall off and tumble to the ground to reveal red hot areas among the grey and black of the cooler lava. There is often the sound of eerie crackling, similar to shattering glass, as it edges forward.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Seeing an eruption never gets any less special,\" said Wainman. \"After we finish our sampling, we always try to take some time to sit and admire the beauty and awe of the volcano. I think it's the combination of curiosity and mild terror in the face of this massive force of nature that keeps us coming back and drives us to want to study volcanoes.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2k3nx"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The erupting crater seen through the heat haze on the smouldering lava","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe baby volcanic crater continues to grow day by day as the lava is forced into the air and adds to the existing cone. The lava is now flowing at an estimated current daily volume of nine cubic metres per second, a similar amount to that of the 2021 eruption, although much reduced from that on the first night. \"There's a limit to how high the crater can get before it inherently becomes unstable, so I think if activity remains high, then it's possible we'll see further events where sections of the crater wall might collapse. It's a very dynamic system but we have lots of people working on modelling different scenarios for where the lava flows might travel,\" Wainman said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe also noted that there is no way to predict how long the eruption will last; the previous two lasted for six months (2021) and three weeks (2022). However, \"so far, the Litli-Hr&uacute;tur eruption has behaved in a similar way to the eruptions seen in 2021 and 2022,\" Wainman said. \"At some point we will begin to see activity drop off and then we may see something like the eruption in 2021 where there were intermittent periods of activity before the eruption finally stopped. As for how long this eruption will last&hellip; we will just have to keep watching.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E(\u003Cem\u003EPhotos taken using a Canon 5DIV camera and DJI Mavic 3 Pro drone.) \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-25T10:59:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Earth's newest 'baby volcano'","headlineShort":"Earth's newest geological marvel","image":["p0g2k3qv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Red hot lava flow with the Litli-Hrútur crater erupting behind","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"63.9155","longitude":"-22.3650","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Red hot lava flow with the Litli-Hrútur crater erupting behind","promoImage":["p0g2k3qv"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180603-the-unexpected-philosophy-icelanders-live-by","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230720-in-pictures-a-city-living-under-an-active-volcano","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220217-la-palma-where-a-volcano-is-good-for-tourism"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"On 10 July, a volcanic eruption near Litli-Hrútur in south-western Iceland saw fissures open up in the Earth – and the creation of a new \"baby volcano\".","summaryShort":"Visitors are flocking to Iceland to see this rare event up close","tag":["tag\u002Fvolcano","tag\u002Fnatural-wonders","tag\u002Fnews-features"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-24T23:01:05.189023Z","entity":"article","guid":"d67ade19-714f-42fe-bcd4-076a33c197c0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano","modifiedDateTime":"2023-07-24T23:01:05.189023Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230724-earths-newest-baby-volcano","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ficeland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_iceland_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442528},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","_id":"64a4615fa471ef0d603538b4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"A rare archaeological discovery on the Dominican Republic's secluded Samaná Peninsula could unlock the mystery behind the Caribbean's little-known pre-Arawak past.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYou wouldn't think of the overtrodden Dominican Republic as a cutting-edge archaeology destination. Yet hidden beneath the beach cabanas are likely clues to a pre-Columbian mystery that's been perplexing anthropologists for centuries: who actually discovered the Caribbean?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Columbus arrived on Hispaniola in the 15th Century, he encountered the Ta&iacute;no, an Arawakan-speaking people who came from the Orinoco Delta of present-day Venezuela, emigrating as early as 400 BCE. While it is often assumed that the Ta&iacute;no were the \"original\" inhabitants of the Caribbean, particularly the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fplace\u002FGreater-Antilles\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreater Antilles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, other peoples had already been living there for several thousand years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese little-known first inhabitants of Hispaniola are known as the \"Archaic\" peoples, characterised by their usage of stone tools (and the \"Ceramic Age\" Ta&iacute;no by their creation of ceramics). The term generalises a diverse group of prehistoric peoples whose languages and names for themselves are unknown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.uniroma1.it\u002Fen\u002Fnotizia\u002Frare-pre-columbian-archaic-settlement-discovered-dominican-republic\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea recent discovery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by a team of Italian and Dominican archaeologists on the Dominican Republic's secluded Saman&aacute; Peninsula, could change our understanding of who they were and where they came from.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"El Pozito\" (Spanish for \"little well\") is a rare settlement belonging to these little-known first inhabitants of Hispaniola. It's also the Dominican Republic's biggest Archaic discovery in half a century. To the untrained eye, the site &ndash; a grassy mound surrounded by lush vegetation 2km inland from capes Cabr&oacute;n and Saman&aacute; &ndash; might not seem like anything more than an idyllic spot for a picnic. But after surveying the area and finding a natural spring nearby, seasoned archaeologist Alfredo Coppa knew to dig deeper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"El Pozito archaeological site in Dominican Republic","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor 2.5 weeks in September 2021, Coppa's team from Sapienza University of Rome, with investigators from Santo Domingo's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fmuseo.d.dominicano\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseo del Hombre Dominicano\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, combed a 12mx12m area of virgin turf untouched by agriculture. Digging just 20cm below the surface, gently prodding the moist, coffee-coloured earth for signs of past civilisations, they found a trove of polished stone hammers, pestles and axes, conches and other tools used by the Archaic people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe most significant finds are the \u003Cem\u003Emariposoid \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eor butterfly axes, which were likely used for felling trees to make canoes and oars; and a small ceremonial well (35cm in diameter) with 12 stone pestles buried inside, barely used save some plant residue, leading the team to believe these settlers were also ritualistic &ndash; a ground-breaking revelation considering how little is known about their way of life. Few Archaic settlements have been uncovered around the Caribbean to date and this is among the most promising.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I spent 30 years looking for an Archaic site like this","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile carbon dating has yet to be done on El Pozito, Coppa believes it to be around 2,000 years old (Late Archaic Age), based on the objects he's found so far, but he's hoping the settlement is much older than that. Particularly because what he's really looking to find is a necropolis &ndash; with burials spanning centuries &ndash; in order to glean genetic insights. And there's a good chance he will, because no site where humans lived has not been associated with a necropolis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I spent 30 years looking for an Archaic site like this,\" said Coppa, who has overseen excavations in other places like Oman, Eritrea, Pakistan and Libya &ndash; and, of course, across the Dominican Republic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Playa Onda Samana on the Samana peninsula","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first and last major Archaic discovery here happened in the 1970s in the southern part of the island. Over the years, Coppa found butterfly axes scattered around the north, but no site, which led him to believe the Archaic peoples lived down south, likely coming from Cuba, the biggest island in the Greater Antilles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUntil he found El Pozito.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEl Pozito is tucked away at the end of the Saman&aacute; Peninsula, a 30-mile verdant strip of land in the country's north-east that juts into the Atlantic Ocean. An eco-tourism paradise, the land is rainforested and dramatic, formed by the Sierra de Saman&aacute;, an extension of the Cordillera Septentrional &ndash; the biggest mountain range in the Caribbean &ndash; that runs along the northern coast, providing natural shelters along several remote beaches. Coppa theorises that these Archaic people may have reached Saman&aacute; from Puerto Rico, the closest nearby island about 200 nautical miles to the east, though he says more research is needed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210412-the-us-lost-ancient-megacity\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe US' lost, ancient megacity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200921-jamaicas-port-royal-the-wickedest-city-on-earth\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWas this the wickedest city on Earth?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200713-baiae-a-roman-settlement-at-the-bottom-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Roman settlement at the bottom of the sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the bigger questions are: Which continent did they come from? To whom are they related? How did they interact and trade with others? And what happened to them?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ynharari.com\u002Fbook\u002Fsapiens-2\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESapiens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E author Yuval Noah Harari, the first seafaring society may have developed on the Indonesia archipelago 45,000 years ago. It would take another 39,000 years or so for homo sapiens to discover the Caribbean &ndash; the last region of the Americas to be settled by humans, and the first to be colonised by Europeans.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile 6,000 years ago is relatively recent for archaeologists, evidence is scarce because almost nothing organic survives the tropics. The humid climate, volcanic soil and rising sea levels &ndash; not to mention agriculture, development, looting and indifference &ndash; breaks down and swallows up bones, settlements and objects, posing a challenge to Caribbean archaeology. But that's precisely what makes the field &ndash; and this discovery &ndash; exciting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Stone pestles at El Pozito","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"They're the actual discoverers of the Caribbean but they've received the least attention from archaeologists,\" said Dr Reniel Rodr&iacute;guez-Ramos, professor of archaeology at University of Puerto Rico in Utuado. Rodr&iacute;guez-Ramos has written about \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F31043611_From_the_Guanahatabey_to_the_Archaic_of_Puerto_Rico_The_Nonevident_Evidence\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehow European travelogues at the time of Columbus misguided archaeologists\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who long considered them as nomadic \"fisher-hunter-gatherers\" who lived in caves by the coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries, texts by Spanish and Italian travellers, such as Bartolom&eacute; de las Casas, a missionary from Seville who became a Dominican friar, were the only \"evidence\" archaeologists had about these non-Ta&iacute;no peoples, often described in unsophisticated terms.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"They're the actual discoverers of the Caribbean but they've received the least attention from archaeologists","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut recent discoveries across the Caribbean &ndash; from the cultic implications of the 12 pestles found at El Pozito, to finding shelters and weights likely used to hold down fish nets in Puerto Rico &ndash; show that these first settlers were more skilled than archaeologists historically thought. They practiced agriculture and basket weaving, and were more sedentary than survivalist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition, the Caribbean archipelago is not visible from land (apart from the island of Trinidad, which can be seen from Venezuela), nor was it ever part of any continent. This means these first settlers took a chance when they ventured into the Caribbean Sea, which was unusual to do back then, say archaeologists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These people had to be explorers,\" said Rodr&iacute;guez-Ramos in answer to why they would be so daring. \"There was no big population pressure back then. No need to jump into a canoe and risk their lives to come here. That's what navigators do. These are sea people. They're just like climbers. They do things because it's part of their idiosyncrasies.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"mariposoid or butterfly axes at El Pozito","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe theorises they came from across the Americas, and that the islands were a centre for trade and cultural exchange; a maritime Silk Road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFurthermore, while it was long assumed that the Archaic people were either ancestors to or mixed with the Ta&iacute;no, DNA analysis now tells us that the first settlers were genetically distinct, despite evidence that the two groups coexisted for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis surprised experts. \"When two groups meet you usually find mixture. It's almost entirely absent from the Caribbean and we are wondering why that is,\" said Dr Kathrin N&auml;gele, a Caribbean-specialised archaeogeneticist from the Max Planck Institute, who pioneered \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.science.org\u002Fdoi\u002F10.1126\u002Fscience.aba8697\"\u003Ea study on ancient Caribbean genomics\u003C\u002Fa\u003E published in Science in 2020.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis absence, however, could be for lack of samples.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe study was the first time ancient Caribbean human genomes were successfully sequenced, thanks to a breakthrough in DNA retrieval. (This led to subsequent studies by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nature.com\u002Farticles\u002Fs41586-020-03053-2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHarvard University\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and other, smaller labs.) While hundreds of Ta&iacute;no skeletons have been analysed so far, only 55 Archaic Age genomes have been sequenced: 52 from Cuba and three from the Dominican Republic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhich is why Coppa is hoping to find a necropolis at El Pozito, where he may be able to source the inch-long bone they're searching for &ndash; the skull's petrous bone, which protects the inner ear &ndash; that is the best source of preserved DNA. It may explain who the Archaic peoples were related to and what happened to them; if they mixed with Ceramic Age groups, Europeans, died out or disappeared.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Aerial view of Playta Fronton on the Samana peninsula","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Every new genome we study has the potential to change what we thought we knew,\" said Dr Kendra Sirak, research fellow at Harvard Medical School, who works with Coppa on sequencing ancient genomes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EEl Pozito is purposely not geotagged (so you can&rsquo;t find it in Google Maps) in order to protect it from looters who sell archaeological objects to tourists on the black market.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf you happen to find anything on your travels that could be of interest to archaeologists, be sure to leave it where you found it and notify authorities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Travel responsibly","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor travellers interested in digging deeper, the place to start is the Museo del Hombre Dominicano in Santo Domingo, when it reopens. The impressive four-storey brutalist anthropological museum has been undergoing renovations since 2017, though Glenis Tavarez, a forensic archaeologist who has been with the museum for 38 years, hopes it will reopen for its 50th anniversary in 2023. When it does, it will feature artefacts from El Pozito.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor now, it's best to head to Saman&aacute;. While the site is not yet open to the public (the dig is due to continue in July and interested travellers are welcome to inquire about joining), nearby on Cape Saman&aacute;, about a two-hour trek from the quiet fishing village of Las Galeras through jungle, is a towering 90m-high limestone cliff that runs 3.5km along a beach called Playa Front&oacute;n. The cocooned white-sand beach, along with its neighbour Playa Madama, is accessible only by foot, boat or horse. Coppa suggests these beaches as good places for interested travellers to explore, as both are filled with accessible pre-Columbian sites, including caves and petroglyphs, which he surveyed before finding El Pozito.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile seeking shade under the sea-worn rockface or inside a cave, you might watch snorkelers or kayakers paddling the glistening turquoise waters &ndash; and be reminded of the intrepid people who came here first.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-23T03:36:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The mysterious people of the Caribbean","headlineShort":"The mysterious people of the Caribbean","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"19.208070","longitude":"-69.251297","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A rare archaeological discovery on the Dominican Republic's secluded Samaná Peninsula could unlock the mystery behind the Caribbean's little-known pre-Arawak past.","summaryShort":"It's been perplexing anthropologists for centuries","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-22T21:21:38.07342Z","entity":"article","guid":"c330b086-41cf-4ce9-82e8-d5cb1ac60e8d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-22T23:32:22.363286Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442529},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise","_id":"64a46162a471ef2ecd74c23e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"From pirate haven to ecological hotspot, Cuba's \"Treasure Island\" is a far-flung gem home to some of the Caribbean's rarest animals.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA pirate hideaway, a one-time US colony and a biodiverse hotspot home to endangered crocs, parrots, sharks and turtles, Cuba's Isla de la Juventud is an enigma. The Caribbean nation's largest offshore island lies 60 miles south off the mainland and is a comma-shaped arc of palm and pine trees, citrus groves and marble hills that few visitors ever see.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn centuries past, real pirates of the Caribbean slipped into the island's coves, with boats bearing illicit booty. Today, visitors come from the port of Bataban&oacute;, 56km south of Havana, on a three-hour ferry ride that costs $0.50 Cuban Pesos (&pound;0.35) and requires reserving a month in advance, or securing a seat on irregular flights.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThose who make the journey usually come to dive off the south-western tip, Punta Franc&eacute;s, staying at the island's one hotel. Or, they tour the island's panopticon prison, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fisladelajuventud-cuba.com\u002Fmonu-presidio-modelo\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPresidio Modelo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (now an eerie museum), where Cuba's late Communist leader Fidel Castro was incarcerated in 1953 for attacking army barracks &ndash; an event that triggered the 1959 Cuban Revolution. But beyond its few attractions, the island's sugar-soft beaches, unique culture and history, and protected wildlife havens offer a vastly different Cuban experience than the crumbling colonial facades and raucous rum bars of Havana.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen Christopher Columbus crossed the Atlantic for a second time in 1493, he dropped anchor close to the island that would later prove to be the perfect refuge for pirates. From the 1850s, Francis Drake, Henry Morgan and their ilk ransacked the Spanish Crown's treasure fleet as ships, bulging with gems, silver and spices, sailed past La Isla enroute from the tip of South America to Havana. Because of this, La Isla was dubbed both \"Island of Pirates\" and \"Treasure Island\". It was even thought to have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson's classic book, Treasure Island.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the late 1970s, Fidel Castro opened dozens of universities on the island for foreign students, and in 1978, the island was renamed Isla de la Juventud (Isle of Youth) from Isla de Pinos (Isle of Pines). The schools closed in the late 1990s, but their legacy remains in the island's name.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack when Columbus' caravel sought wood and water on the island, his men glimpsed no other human soul. Ship logs reveal the sea was \"covered\" with so many turtles of \"vast bigness\", the air thick with an \"abundance\" of birds and \"immense swarms of butterflies&hellip; darkened the air\".&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EColumbus would still recognise much of the remote southern third of the island today: a landscape patchworked with swamps, mangroves, beaches, coral seas, limestone forests and caves painted with prehistoric drawings, all safeguarded in the 1,455sq km region called South of the Isle of Youth Protected Area of Managed Resources (APRM). Within the APRM's marine protected area, other vulnerable creatures such as Antillean manatee, hammerheads, elkhorn coral and marine turtles seek sanctuary in the sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo enter the protected area, travellers must first obtain permission from the agency \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fecotur.isladelajuventud\u002F)\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEcotur\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or a local \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.airbnb.co.uk\u002Fisla-de-la-juventud-cuba\u002Fstays\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EB&amp;B\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and pass a checkpoint at the northern limit so officials can monitor the trafficking of wildlife, people and drugs. Three times a week, a bare-bones bus jangles three hours south from the island's capital, Nueva Gerona, through forest rooted in limestone karst. Within its tangled embrace is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frsis.ramsar.org\u002Fris\u002F1234\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECi&eacute;naga de Lanier\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Lanier swamp), refuge of the critically endangered Cuban crocodile. The elusive crocs were almost wiped out in the 20th Century by fire, drought and hunting. A few specimens were discovered in 1977 and a reintroduction programme launched in 1987.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We know American crocodiles and the introduced spectacled caiman are there, but in the last two expeditions, our experts haven't seen Cuban crocodiles in the wild,\" said Yanet Forneiro Mart&iacute;n-Via&ntilde;a,senior conservation specialist for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FFFaunaCubaGEFF\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFlora y Fauna\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which manages the island's southern APRM zone.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EForneiro Mart&iacute;n-Via&ntilde;a is confident though. \"We continue to search for [Cuban crocodiles] and reintroduce more individuals into the swamp,\" she said. \"We know this area has great potential for the habitat of this species.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe coarse sand of Guanal Beach, on the south coast, is veined with beach morning glory vine. Trails of the stabilising plant erupted to replace 10km of casuarina, an invasive feathery-leaved Southeast Asian tree that Flora y Fauna cut down over a 10-year period and recycled, converting the slain trunks into charcoal for export.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAcross more than 1km of beach, long, lean sticks poked out of the burning-hot sand, marking a veritable \"X\" for treasure &ndash; yet, not the glittery kind, but a natural bounty. Empty water bottles, placed upside down on the sticks, were stuffed with paper notes indicating turtle nest sites, the dates eggs were laid and the expected hatching dates. Some 250 nests of endangered green turtles at Guanal are under guard this year.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dr Julia Azanza Ricardo, a turtle expert and professor at the Higher Institute of Technologies and Applied Sciences of the University of Havana, Guanal is one of the most important nesting areas in Cuba. However, climate change is threatening their future. Turtle gender is linked to the temperature of the nest during incubation, and the rising temperatures are resulting in fewer males being born.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"More than 90% of turtles born in Cuba are female, Azanza said. \"In a short time, we expect to reach 100%. When we started monitoring nest temperature 15 years ago, they were 28, 29, 30 degrees. Now it's 32, 33, 34. It will only take a rise of two degrees to reach 100%. If all males are wiped out, then it's the end of local populations and then the end of the species.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESolutions, Azanza explained, include vegetation shading by planting certain species of bushes, moving nests to cooler spots or watering the sand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWest of turtle country and 86km south-west of Nueva Gerona is the village of Cocodrilo, the most remote inhabited spot in Cuba. Founded as Jacksonville after English-speaking Cayman Islanders settled it in the early 20th Century, 122 families now live in single-storey concrete and wooden homes facing the sea. Twenty-four-hour electricity only arrived in 2001.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHere, conservationist Reinaldo Borrego Hern&aacute;ndez, known as \"Nene\", runs a tourism and conservation project, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fecosistemas.marinoscosteros\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EConsytur\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with his wife, Yemmy. Nene's mission is to preserve and protect the coral reef, wildlife and nature of his home village.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I've lived in this natural environment all my life, and my wish to protect it is in my blood,\" said Nene.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy staying in Nene's B&amp;B, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.airbnb.co.uk\u002Frooms\u002F655584862256279387?source_impression_id=p3_1668103806_vTBzGbBEkLaN98bJ\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVilla Arrecife\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (one of only three B&amp;Bs in Cocodrilo), visitors help fund conservation work focused on collecting rubbish from beaches and the seabed, capturing lionfish &ndash; an invasive species &ndash; and serving it to guests, and growing and planting new branches of critically endangered staghorn coral.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Lionfish get into the mangroves, seagrass and the reef, and have very few predators,\" said Nene, who has a Masters degree in coastal management. \"They compete with local species to eat small fish and crustaceans, so capturing them limits their numbers.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne morning at Americana Beach, a few kilometres west from Cocodrilo, we filled a net bag with 8-10kg of plastic bottles, flip flops and take-away containers from the beach. Later, we dived 15m down through crystal-clear water. We swam over coloured fans, moray eel, monochrome spotted drum, yellow French grunt and iridescent princess parrotfish before touching down on the seabed amid a large rocky field of multi-branched staghorn coral, grown by Nene these last few years.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe picked fragments of pale orange coral, the width of a fat ballpoint pen, from the seabed. Nene hacked off blackened ends, dead from disease or microalgae. We wrapped thread around them before diving up to a special \"tree\" structure to tie the fragments to its long-limbed branches.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENene explained that each fragment is asexual and produces a polyp that forms another polyp, and so on. At one year old, the coral reproduces sexually and their planula float to the seabed and the cycle of producing polyps begins again. After a year, Nene will search for a rocky spot with no macroalgae and few predators and plant the new-growth coral. Overfishing has left the reef bereft of much of its previous fish life, Nene said, allowing algae to flourish and suffocate the corals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We want to increase the number of juvenile fish on the reef, and staghorn coral offers refuge to young fish,\" Nene said. \"By restoring and protecting the reef, we increase the diversity and number of fish.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStaghorn coral grows about 1cm a year. It's a slow process, but Nene hopes the work he started will outlast him. \"My dream is that more people come to stay so that we can include and pay the young people around here. That will incentivise them to care for the sea and the coast,\" he said. \"And they'll be able to continue my work when I'm gone.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnlike other islands scattered around the Cuban mainland, the no-frills Isle of Youth is relatively undeveloped. Some locals claim the island is abandoned. But within this castaway island, endangered creatures have sought refuge since long before anyone was looking. Natural disasters, invasive species, over-fishing and climate change threaten its delicate ecological footprint. But with help from eco-minded visitors, Cuban scientists and conservationists are setting a benchmark to ensure nature reclaims and thrives in this remote, secluded landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter called \"The Essential List\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-11-16T10:27:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Isla de la Juventud: Cuba's remote nature paradise","headlineShort":"Cuba's remote 'Treasure Island'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"21.7085","longitude":"-82.8500","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From pirate haven to ecological hotspot, Cuba's \"Treasure Island\" is a far-flung gem home to some of the Caribbean's rarest animals.","summaryShort":"Getting here is a journey in itself","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-11-15T20:47:30.890564Z","entity":"article","guid":"54b2880e-c8bd-4e18-8d0b-8deef1f22b75","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise","modifiedDateTime":"2022-11-16T06:39:27.886276Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442529},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean","_id":"64a46153a471ef0d253548d8","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"With a phenomenally successful hip-hop musical named after him, Alexander Hamilton’s life story has become a topic of global interest.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENevis is less well-known than other Caribbean islands &ndash; and Nevisians prefer it that way. It&rsquo;s only a few miles across the water from lively St Kitts. But here, the most cacophonous noise you&rsquo;ll hear is the chirping of insects among the lush vegetation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOn the waterfront in Charlestown, the island&rsquo;s laid-back capital, is a two-storey building with green window shutters and irregular brickwork. On the other side of a well-kept lawn is a brightly painted cafe, where shade and sea breezes offer respite from the energy-sapping heat. But what really draws the visitor&rsquo;s attention is a plaque on the wall declaring that Alexander Hamilton, the US founding father who features on the country&rsquo;s $10 bill, was born on this site in 1757.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHamilton&rsquo;s life story has become increasingly well known since it became the subject of the phenomenally successful \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hamiltonbroadway.com\u002F\"\u003Ehip-hop musical\u003C\u002Fa\u003E named after him. After spending his early childhood on Nevis, his family moved to St Croix (now part of the US Virgin Islands, but then under Danish rule) in 1765, where he effectively became an orphan after his father left the island and his mother died.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe gained work as a clerk, where his talents were recognised, and he received financial support from local businessmen to study in America. He enrolled at King&rsquo;s College in New York City (now Columbia University), where he began legal studies, alongside writing political articles supporting the fast-developing revolution against British rule. In 1776, without having graduated, Hamilton became an artillery commander in the Continental Army that fought the British, and the next year, was appointed as aide-de-camp to general George Washington, a role he served in for four years. From 1789 to 1795, he served as Secretary of the Treasury in Washington&rsquo;s cabinet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHamilton favoured strong central government (his enemies accused him of being a monarchist) and a modern industrial economy. Among his notable achievements were supporting the ratification of the US Constitution in essays known as the Federalist Papers, which are still used as a reference point by judges interpreting the constitution. He also established a national banking system. But the museum next to Hamilton House, as the building in Charlestown is known, is keen to point out smaller feats, even suggesting that he was responsible for the tradition of eating turkey on Thanksgiving.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENevis is clearly proud of its link. But did Hamilton&rsquo;s early experiences in this &ldquo;forgotten spot&rdquo;, as the musical calls it, leave their mark on him?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt&rsquo;s hard to imagine now, but the island was a hub of commerce in the 18th Century; an important British colony covered with lucrative sugar plantations. These now lie in ruin, and their elegant colonial houses have been turned into boutique hotels. But at the time they were home to wealthy planters, whose slaves toiled in the fields outside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen he was born, Hamilton&rsquo;s parents were clinging onto this privileged class by their fingertips. His mother, Rachel Faucette, had inherited a small plantation as well as the Charlestown property &ndash; but she led a troubled life, including being imprisoned by her first husband for alleged adultery. His father, James Hamilton, was from a propertied Scottish family. He came to the Caribbean in search of wealth, but suffered a string of business failures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAdding to the family&rsquo;s stigma, Alexander and his brother were born out of wedlock (his parents never married because Rachel had not divorced her husband). In 1759, after Hamilton was born, her first husband obtained a divorce that allowed him, but not her, to remarry. Hamilton&rsquo;s illegitimacy may have meant he was excluded from Christian schools. According to his son, John Church Hamilton, Alexander said he had been educated &ldquo;at the school of a Jewess&rdquo;, and fondly recalled reciting the 10 commandments in Hebrew when he was so small he had to stand next to her on a table.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere was certainly a sizeable Sephardic Jewish community on Nevis at the time. The island still has a Jewish cemetery just off Charlestown&rsquo;s main street, where 19 mostly well-preserved graves are dotted around a small grassy enclosure, the oldest dating from 1679 (archaeological research suggests there were at least 40 more burials that no longer have tombstones). The rectangular slabs, lying horizontally, have weather-worn inscriptions in Hebrew, Spanish and Portuguese, and are scattered with small stones placed by visitors, in accordance with Jewish custom.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt one point it was thought that a building behind the Nevis Island Administration offices was a former synagogue. This has now been disproven. But by analysing land records, researcher Michelle Terrell \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.tc.umn.edu\u002F~terre011\u002FSynagogue.html\"\u003Ehas identified the site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E where the synagogue did use to stand. Close to the cemetery, it formed part of a Jewish quarter in a less desirable part of town. Was this the location of the school Hamilton attended?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWalking past the tin-roofed building that now stands there, I like the idea that Hamilton&rsquo;s education began in this humble location. It ties in with the question of social status that runs through his life. His enemies would not let him forget his illegitimacy, for which he suffered what he called &ldquo;humiliating criticism&rdquo;. And it&rsquo;s tempting to ask whether a sense of inferiority drove his determination to succeed. But alongside his ambition, Hamilton was sympathetic to less fortunate members of society, speaking out against slavery and joining the New York Manumission Society, which promoted the emancipation of slaves (even though he himself probably owned slaves).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThere is more that we could speculate on. Can Hamilton&rsquo;s pragmatic desire for national stability be traced back to his own unstable childhood? Did his skills for influencing and manoeuvring develop to help him survive as an orphan? Did his hot-headed streak, which eventually led to his death in a duel in 1804 in Weehawken, New Jersey, on a ledge overlooking the Hudson River, have its roots in the sometimes lawless world of the Caribbean colonies?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhat is certain is that Hamilton is hard to pin down. Some see him as an unprincipled social climber, while others believe he&rsquo;s the encapsulation of the American Dream. Historians even dispute the year he was born, with some saying it was 1755, not 1757. And there is also disagreement about the location. We know that the current Hamilton House is a restoration. But some think that he wasn&rsquo;t born on that site at all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERichard Lupinacci, who owns \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hermitagenevis.com\u002Fhome\u002Fthe-hermitage-history\"\u003EThe Hermitage hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a wooden former plantation house near the site of Hamilton&rsquo;s mother&rsquo;s estate, said that he had heard a different story from descendants of old planter families.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;They said that he wasn&rsquo;t born in Charlestown &ndash; he was born up here in the country in 1755,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;He would have lived in both places.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESitting beneath the building&rsquo;s white-beamed ceiling in a room furnished with dark varnished chairs and tables and a patterned Persian rug, the history enthusiast told me that Hamilton&rsquo;s family would have been welcome at the Hermitage, whose owners at that time were in the &ldquo;second tier&rdquo; of Nevis society. But Hamilton was probably ashamed of his childhood. &ldquo;[The Hamilton family] were not in the upper echelon of the society here. It was very class conscious. He felt embarrassed and a bit disgraced. He doesn&rsquo;t talk about happy times,&rdquo; Lupinacci said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile Hamilton was keen not to dwell on his time in Nevis, it&rsquo;s impossible not to wonder what effect it had on him. We may never know the full story. But there&rsquo;s always the chance that there&rsquo;s another twist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=tvl.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, called &ldquo;If You Only Read 6 Things This Week&rdquo;. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital, Travel and Autos, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean-10"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-02-03T14:22:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Hamilton’s forgotten Caribbean","headlineShort":"The Caribbean’s 'forgotten' island","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With a phenomenally successful hip-hop musical named after him, Alexander Hamilton’s life story has become a topic of global interest.","summaryShort":"Did Hamilton’s early experiences here leave their mark on him?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:56:01.242202Z","entity":"article","guid":"4f54cbb6-7502-483b-86e0-7443fefc23e0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:02:03.599953Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442529},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy","_id":"64b84108a471ef0d556f4a7c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Feliot-stein"],"bodyIntro":"A new biopic is shedding light on rise and fall of \"the father of the atomic bomb\". But few people know that he spent many of his final days as a Caribbean castaway.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI was 20 years old and had J Robert Oppenheimer's house all to myself. From the porch of the small yellow cottage, four steps led down to the beach where coconut trees swooped low at the water's edge and the Evian-clear Caribbean gently lapped the sugar-white sand. Day after day, I'd hike here after work to marvel at the parrotfish, butterflyfish and hawksbill turtles that glided between the shallow coral reefs, never once seeing another soul.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo me, this deserted white-sand crescent was the perfect hideaway &ndash; just as it must have been for \"the father of the atomic bomb\" after World War Two.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen one of the year's most highly anticipated films, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-a-magnificent-story-of-a-tragic-american-genius\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOppenheimer,\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is released on 21 July, people around the world will get to witness the rise and stunning fall of the enigmatic scientist who unleashed a weapon so deadly it had the potential to destroy humanity. But while Oppenheimer publicly grappled with the moral consequences of his creation after World War Two, few people know that the political fallout that followed affected Oppenheimer's personal life so deeply that he spent many of his remaining days effectively hiding out on the tiny, remote island of St John in the US Virgin Islands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1s726"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A view of Oppenheimer Beach in St John, US Virgin Islands","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"In 1945, after [the US military dropped an atomic bomb on] Hiroshima and Nagasaki, Oppenheimer was hailed as a national hero. His image was put on the cover of Time and Life [magazines] and he becomes America's most famous celebrity scientist,\" said Kai Bird, whose Pulitzer Prize-winning book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguinrandomhouse.com\u002Fbooks\u002F13787\u002Famerican-prometheus-by-kai-bird-and-martin-sherwin\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmerican Prometheus: The Triumph and Tragedy of J Robert Oppenheimer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, written with the late Martin J Sherwin, inspired the new biopic. \"Then in 1954, he suddenly becomes a pariah and disappears from national life until virtually the day he dies.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was a great place to hide out and be anonymous","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, the two-acre plot where the physicist disappeared and lived in a modest cottage part-time from 1955 until his death in 1967 is public land, known locally as Oppenheimer Beach. Though it doesn't appear on most tourist maps, it's regularly touted as one of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lonelyplanet.com\u002Farticles\u002Fbest-beaches-in-us-virgin-islands\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebest beaches in the Virgin Islands and one of its best-kept secrets\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Similarly, the little-known story of how Oppenheimer went from hero to villain to Caribbean castaway offers a fascinating glimpse into the life of one of the US' most famous scientists, and the island that ultimately shaped his final days.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFrom patriot to pariah\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOppenheimer's journey to St John began with the top-secret \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fmapr\u002Flos-alamos.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EManhattan Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where he led the team who developed the first atomic bomb. As Bird explained, \"Oppenheimer's view of the gadget he was building never really changed. He was perfectly aware from the day he joined the Project in 1942 what a terrible thing it was, and that he was building a weapon that would have enormous destructive potential.\" Instead, Oppenheimer, Albert Einstein and most leading physicists of the time were convinced \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fia802907.us.archive.org\u002F8\u002Fitems\u002Fgitaandoppenheimer\u002FGita%20and%20Oppenheimer_text.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe bomb's creation was inevitable\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and that if Oppenheimer didn't create it, the Nazis would first.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was a race to build this weapon, and he thought if Hitler had it first, he would use it to win the war for fascism, which would be a terrible, tragic outcome. So, he felt compelled to do this,\" Bird said. \"Immediately after Hiroshima, he fell into a deep depression&hellip; he spent the rest of his life trying to warn humanity about the dangers of these weapons and the need to control them, so he had a very complicated relationship to this terrible thing that he himself was responsible for building.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1s5dn"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"J Robert Oppenheimer speaking at his security hearing","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the Soviets exploded their first atomic bomb in 1949, US President Harry Truman ordered American scientists to embark on a new programme to build a hydrogen bomb, whose nuclear explosion could be \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftime.com\u002F4954082\u002Fhydrogen-bomb-atomic-bomb\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E1,000 times more powerful\u003C\u002Fa\u003E than an atomic bomb. Oppenheimer, the government's chief scientific advisor on nuclear policy and defence, objected on moral and practical grounds, reportedly telling Truman, \"I feel I have blood on my hands.\" Oppenheimer's defiance ultimately made him a chief target of the US' anti-communist hysteria during the Cold War. In the spring of 1954, he endured an exhaustive four-week interrogation that questioned his US loyalty and ultimately stripped him of his security clearance. (The US government would ultimately \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2022\u002F12\u002F16\u002Fscience\u002Fj-robert-oppenheimer-energy-department.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eclear his name\u003C\u002Fa\u003E 68 years later.)&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Bird, a now-fully-white-haired Oppenheimer was left \"humiliated, terribly wounded and physically and psychologically exhausted\". So, that summer, the disgraced physicist left his Princeton, New Jersey, home, boarded a 72ft ketch with his wife and two children and set sail for St John.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"He was escaping &ndash;&nbsp;escaping the notoriety of being the father of the atomic bomb, but also the notoriety that plagued him after the '54 trial, the suspicions of disloyalty, of being a Communist or perhaps a spy,\" Bird said. \"When they saw the island for the first time, [Oppenheimer] fell in love with St John &hellip; so, he went back the following year and eventually found some property on the beach and built a very simple, spartan cabin, and it's where he spent the rest of his life &ndash; you know, many months of the year, both in the winter, but sometimes in the spring and summers &hellip; it wasn't about penance; it was about getting back to the physicality of the natural world.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EOppenheimer's St John\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESt John couldn't be further from the life Oppenheimer left &ndash;&nbsp;and that was the point. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20230712-robert-oppenheimer-manhattan-project-nuclear-scientist-atomic-bomb\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOppenheimer grew up\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in a posh home in Manhattan's Upper West side with three maids, a chauffeur and Van Gogh paintings hanging on the walls. When the family landed on the Manhattan-sized island in July 1954, Bird and Sherwin write that there were virtually no phones or electricity, and peacocks and donkeys roamed the dirt streets. St John had only been a US territory for 37 years and 90% of its 800 residents were the descendants of formerly enslaved people the island's previous Danish landlords had kidnapped from Africa to work on their sugar and cotton plantations. The island's first bar wouldn't be built for two more years, and its largest building was a one-storey West Indian \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftechnology\u002Fgingerbread-architecture\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egingerbread-style\u003C\u002Fa\u003E cottage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1s5qs"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"J Robert Oppenheimer and his family at the beach","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The reason they chose St John was because it was a backwater,\" said David W Knight Sr, a local historian whose family was good friends with the Oppenheimers and who housesat at their cottage when they were away. \"No one was going to harass [Robert]. No one knew who he was or cared. It was a great place to hide out and be anonymous. It's that simple.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003ETwo years before Oppenheimer landed on St John, conservationist Laurence Rockefeller (son of business magnate John Rockefeller) visited. He was so struck by its natural beauty, he bought most of the island and eventually donated it to the US government for the creation of the \u003Ca title=\"Virgin Islands National Park\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fviis\u002Findex.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVirgin Islands National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"The Rockefeller connection","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to anonymity, the Oppenheimers' great escape also served a practical purpose. As the scientist's possible communist ties came under scrutiny in the 1950s, the FBI wiretapped his New Jersey home, but as Bird and Sherwin write, \"The FBI found it impossible to keep Oppenheimer under surveillance while he was on St John.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKnight also suggested that Oppenheimer's decision to relocate to St John was motivated by his increasing anti-nuclear stance. \"My parents often repeated the story that the reason why Oppenheimer had chosen the US Virgin Islands is that he was convinced that due to the trade winds, it would be one of the last places affected by nuclear fallout.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1955, the Oppenheimers purchased land on Hawksnest Bay and hammered together a humble home on the beach. As Bird and Sherwin write, \"The gentlest part of Robert's nature was unfurled on St John.\" The physicist wrote poetry at his desk facing the bay. He and his wife, Kitty, spent days sailing between the US and British Virgin Islands. Each September, the couple sent three dozen invitations to their friends for a New Year's Eve party, where they would serve lobster salad and Champagne, hire a local calypso band and Robert would dance on the beach before pointing out various constellations to guests.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1s5zx"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Oppenheimer house in St John, US Virgin Islands","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"All sorts of people came &ndash; Blacks and whites, educated and uneducated. Robert made no distinction,\" Bird and Sherwin write. A former friend told the authors: \"He was the gentlest, kindest man I think I have ever met. I have never known anyone who felt or expressed less ill will to any other person.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet, despite physically distancing himself from his past, Oppenheimer could never escape what he'd seen or done. One evening in 1961, Bird and Sherwin write that a friend of the Oppenheimers had gone swimming and caught a small hawksbill turtle. Over dinner, he displayed the squirming creature and announced he wanted to cook it. \"Wincing, Robert pleaded for the turtle's life, telling everyone that it 'brought back to him the horrible memories of what happened to all the creatures after the [first atomic bomb explosion] test in New Mexico'.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESix years later, Oppenheimer would die of throat cancer at the age of 62. At his request, Kitty took her husband's ashes out in a boat towards Carval Rock, a tiny island he used to gaze out at from the cottage, and dropped them into Hawksnest Bay. When Kitty passed in 1972, her ashes were scattered at the same spot. Their daughter, Toni, suffered from depression but was especially fond of the island. In 1977, she took her life in the beach house her father built, but not before leaving a handwritten note on the bed, deeding the house and property \"to the people of St John\".&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESt John today\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENearly 70 years after Oppenheimer escaped to St John, it remains the smallest, most remote and least developed of the three US Virgin Islands (which also include St Thomas and St Croix). Thanks to Rockefeller's donation, two-thirds of St John remains a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fviis\u002Findex.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eprotected national park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with gnarled forests and spiky cacti carpeting its mountains and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fviis\u002Fplanyourvisit\u002Fhiking-in-viis.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emore than 20 hiking trails\u003C\u002Fa\u003E crisscrossing its 20-square-mile terrain. There are no airports or cruise ship docks, and wild donkeys still roam free along the island's secluded eastern hills.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1s4m2"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Image of Trunk Bay in St John, US Virgin Islands","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnless you sail in on your own boat as the Oppenheimers did, visitors arrive at St John's main town, Cruz Bay, via the ferry from St Thomas, where most of the island's 3,880 residents live. From the dock, a fleet of open-air \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fonislandtimes.com\u002Fon-island-taxi\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etrucks-turned-taxis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E whisk travellers up North Shore Road, past the island's most famous resort, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.caneelbay.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECaneel Bay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and its most popular beaches.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Virgin Islands is the only US territory where people drive on the left side of the road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Fun fact","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fplaces\u002Ftrunk-bay.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrunk Bay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;and its&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fthingstodo\u002Ftrunk-bay-underwater-snorkel-trail.htm\"\u003Eunderwater snorkel trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;is considered one of the world's finest beaches, it's also among the island's most crowded. Instead, if you're looking to escape the crowds as Oppenheimer did, look for a white-picket fence on the left-hand side of the road after Hawksnest Beach. There is no sign and only three parking spots &ndash; hence why&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoo.gl\u002Fmaps\u002FTLiTeW7hyjbjW35n6\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOppenheimer Beach\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;is considered a locals-only secret. A few steps from the fence, an original black-iron gate reading \"Oppenheimer\" opens up to the turquoise bay.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's absolutely one of the most beautiful beaches in the USA. The water's so crystal-clear you can go in up to your neck and see your toes,\" said Bridgette Key, whose company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpalmtreecharters.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPalm Tree Charters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, guides travellers along St John's North Shore. \"But what makes it so special is it's so secluded.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1s6vr"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Image of Oppenheimer Beach in St John, US Virgin Islands","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBy the time I arrived on St John in 2003, the Oppenheimer home and property was still open \"to the people of St John\", but the inside was boarded up and abandoned. Years of pummelling hurricane-force winds eventually carried the cottage out to sea after I left, but in its place, a community centre now stands on the original foundation. Friends tell me that anyone can rent it out today for a picnic or wedding, and fittingly, calypso bands still play there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Although the house Oppenheimer lived in looks very different than the structure that is there today, it's easy to sit on the outdoor patio and take in a view similar to what Oppenheimer would have experienced,\" said Andrea Milam, a St John correspondent for the Virgin Islands Daily News newspaper. \"Perhaps the bay brought Oppenheimer peace and quietude as he sought to escape the magnitude of his impacts on the world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy-18"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-20T15:58:39Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"St John: The tiny island where Robert Oppenheimer escaped his legacy","headlineShort":"Where Oppenheimer escaped his legacy","image":["p0g1s555"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Image of Oppenheimer Beach in St John, US Virgin Islands","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"18.3368","longitude":"-64.7281","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220322-the-mysterious-people-of-the-caribbean","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221115-isla-de-la-juventud-cubas-remote-nature-paradise","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170202-hamiltons-forgotten-caribbean"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A new biopic is shedding light on rise and fall of \"the father of the atomic bomb\". But few people know that he spent many of his final days as a Caribbean castaway.","summaryShort":"How \"the father of the atomic bomb\" ended up on an island paradise","tag":["tag\u002Fbeaches","tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fnews-features"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-19T20:00:55.068632Z","entity":"article","guid":"f4d83716-a846-46b7-ba1e-84507b04e2d2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy","modifiedDateTime":"2023-07-24T20:26:35.030269Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-st-john-the-tiny-island-where-robert-oppenheimer-escaped-his-legacy","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442528},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world","_id":"64a46162a471ef2ebf29ec7f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"From China to Denmark, countries around the world have different ways to show appreciation. Here's five spots with their own distinctive tipping traits, plus advice on how much to tip.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe ongoing debate about&nbsp;tipping&nbsp;culture in the United States has been reignited with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002F65503170\"\u003Erecent news\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that employees at the first-ever unionised Apple Store in the US \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002F65503170\"\u003Eare proposing asking for tips\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It has sparked intense debate about tipping culture in North America, which people believe is getting out of control. Already, buzzwords like \"guilt tipping\", \"tipping fatigue\", \"tip creep\", \"viral tip shaming\" and \"tipflation\" are creeping into the lexicon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"ssrcss-1q0x1qg-paragraph\"\u003EThe divisive practice has spread across the world &ndash; most recently \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feuroweeklynews.com\u002F2023\u002F04\u002F08\u002Fto-tip-or-not-to-tip-new-american-style-tipping-system-causing-controversy-in-spain\u002F\"\u003Ecausing controversy in Spain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; but not everywhere embraces the culture with such vim and vigour as Americans do. In France, \"\u003Cem\u003Eservice compris\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" means the gratuity is already included in the bill. In other places, particularly in East Asia, the lack of any tipping tradition is a source of pride.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ETo highlight the age-old tipping dilemma, here are places with their own distinctive tipping traits, each picked because of what they say about the culture of appreciation and how their tipping attitudes reflect wider aspects of society.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EJapan\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EReceived wisdom has it that Japan is the sort of ascetic paradise where litter is unheard of, imperfection (or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181021-japans-unusual-way-to-view-the-world\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ewabi-sabi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) is honoured and social consciousness is elevated into an art form (don't walk while eating; be quiet on public transport; don't point with hands or chopsticks; don't blow your nose in public &ndash; the list goes on).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIt's also a place where tipping isn't just uncommon; it's considered embarrassing and awkward. And, since the Japanese have a tip-free service culture, it really needs to be spelled out to the foreign visitor with a think-twice warning: do so and you'll cause offence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"Even if travellers are told Japan doesn't tip, some people are still keen to show their appreciation with money &ndash; but it doesn't work like that,\" said James Mundy of UK-based tour operator \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.insidejapantours.com\u002F\"\u003EInsideJapan Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It's common for people to leave money for waiting staff at restaurants, then be chased down a road and given their money back. Many cannot understand people do their job with pride, and an '\u003Cem\u003Eoishikatta'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (it was delicious), or a '\u003Cem\u003Egochiso sama\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E'thank you for preparing the meal) will go down very well. Money doesn't always talk.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe Japanese revulsion to tipping is palpable.&nbsp;\u003Cem\u003EShokunin kishitsu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which roughly translates to \"the craftsmanship\", flows through many aspects of Japanese life and is a philosophy perfected by many in tourist-facing industries, from hotel bellhops to food cart vendors to sushi chefs. Service is about the bare necessities of doing a job with pride, and appreciation is most commonly shown through compliments (preferably in Japanese) or by bowing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBut one exception applies: in \u003Cem\u003Eryokans\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, Japan's traditional tatami-matted guesthouses, travellers can leave money for the \u003Cem\u003Enakai san\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the kimono-wearing server who prepares your food and futon), but only when done properly. Don't hand over a tip in person; instead seal pristine notes in a specially decorated envelope.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEgypt\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EA deeply entrenched social norm in North Africa, the Middle East and South Asia is the concept of \u003Cem\u003Ebaksheesh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning a tip or charitable alms. It can be solicited outright by a taxi driver or tour guide, or whispered suggestively from a street corner bazaar, but ultimately means the same thing: a present or small tip is called for, regardless of the service given.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWrongly interpreted it can be translated as begging. But giving alms to the poor is one of the five tenets of Islam and understanding that will deepen a traveller's grasp of this part of the world, with the benefactor supposedly made holier by the action.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn Egypt, such handouts are commonplace for restaurant workers, taxi drivers, tour guides and hotel staff, but also door openers, bathroom attendants, security personnel and shopkeepers. A deeper look at baksheesh also reveals it is part of a loosely defined pay-it-forward system, in which tour guides and hotel concierges from Cairo to Aswan can give preferential treatment, ensure top-notch service and grant favours if tipped in advance. Dollars are welcome, as are Egyptian Pounds, and US$1-2 (or E&pound;30-40) is enough to let loose a welcome grin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIn these circumstances, it is not uncommon for a key to a locked temple door in the Valley of the Kings to miraculously appear, or for an out-of-bounds museum toilet to suddenly be open to visitors again. And travellers won't find that insight in many tourist brochures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EChina\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EEven in the most modern of China's megalopolises, like Beijing and Shanghai, there is a sense of superstition and tradition. Gratuities are not expected &ndash; far from it &ndash; and, while it seems hard to credit in a country obsessed with technological breakthrough and the world of tomorrow, here tipping was once prohibited.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIndeed, one of the tenets of China is all people are equal and none is a servant to another; and implying superiority over someone else has long been a taboo. And while China is increasingly a country of grand hotels and circus-style restaurants, tipping &ndash; particularly in lesser-visited cities and towns &ndash; still exists somewhere between being ill-mannered and a bribe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBut the growth of Chinese tourism, as well as the assimilation of many Western customs, is leading to incremental change, according to Maggie Tian, general manager of China for Australian-based tour operator \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.intrepidtravel.com\u002F\"\u003EIntrepid Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Chinese still aren't in the habit of tipping, but gratuities are now acceptable","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"While tipping in China historically was considered rude, times are changing,\" she explained. \"The Chinese still aren't in the habit of tipping, but gratuities are now acceptable, especially in bigger cities where there are many foreign residents and visitors. If you're visiting, tipping porters, tour guides and bartenders a small amount for exceptional service or special support is welcome. Despite the history, locals will be appreciative.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EUnited States\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EFew countries take tipping culture as seriously as the US. It is ingrained in the national psyche as much as the Super Bowl, and, at times, it can be hard for a foreign traveller to measure or explain this spirit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIt's now custom to add 20-25% to a bill, and tipflation presents challenges for both locals and visitors alike. Indeed, these days, the amount given and expected has increased exponentially and the rise of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.entrepreneur.com\u002Fbusiness-news\u002Fstarbucks-customers-are-furious-over-new-digital-tipping\u002F440437\"\u003Edigital tipping options\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has added to the complexity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhile every country has different rules around gratuities, and the process can sometimes seem like a minefield, it's important to always be respectful to other cultures when travelling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBe sure to research local tipping customs before you travel to a destination to avoid causing offence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tipping advice","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EIf service staff are underpaid and depend on a daily cycle of gratuities, it is also true that more retailers, from gas stations to Starbucks, are now adding an optional service charge to once straightforward counter sales. The crux is pretty much anything &ndash; with service or not &ndash; can cost extra. There are many ways to do it wrong (not tipping per drink while sat at a bar will see a patron fail to get served, for instance), and yet just one way to do it right. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\"The US has a tipping culture like nowhere else,\" said Peter Anderson, managing director at travel concierge service \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.knightsbridgecircle.com\u002F\"\u003EKnightsbridge Circle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"In New York recently, I bought a bottle of water from a shop and when paying was asked for a tip. But I picked up the water myself, took it to the counter and paid, and yet I was expected to leave 20%. In too many places, it is just a way of paying staff a lower wage and passing more cost onto the customer. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWhile the US is seeing \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eater.com\u002F21398973\u002Frestaurant-no-tipping-movement-living-wage-future\"\u003Ea no-tipping movement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and a shift towards more equitable compensation methods for staff, progress has been slow. For now, realise that while tipping is legally voluntary in the US, hourly wages for wait staff and other frontline tourism workers is often sub-minimal. And it always pays to be nice, especially when travelling as an ambassador for your own homeland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EDenmark\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003ECommonly labelled one of the world's happiest countries for its egalitarian society, community generosity and benevolence to others, it might come as a surprise to learn the Danish are by and large a nation of non-tippers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EChiefly, the reasons are twofold: citizens benefit from higher GDP per capita and a better welfare system than in most other countries around the globe, meaning service staff, taxi drivers and frontline workers aren't dependent on tips in the same way; and service is normally included on the bill at restaurants and hotels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBut while tipping isn't tradition, it's a norm in Denmark &ndash; and across wider Scandinavia &ndash; to round up a bill in a restaurant as a token gesture. And crucially, like almost everywhere in Europe these days, above-and-beyond service is commonly rewarded with either a monetary tip or the loyalty of repeat visits, which are equally worth their weight in gold.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-06-07T06:09:48Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"How to tip around the world","headlineShort":"Where tipping is considered offensive?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.0902","longitude":"-95.7129","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From China to Denmark, countries around the world have different ways to show appreciation. Here's five spots with their own distinctive tipping traits plus advice on how much to tip.","summaryShort":"In some places, tipping is considered embarrassing and awkward","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-06-06T20:42:52.565393Z","entity":"article","guid":"afc84c5e-2b3a-4496-8e8a-91ce5919f98f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world","modifiedDateTime":"2023-06-14T04:42:06.993595Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442530},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023","_id":"64c032dda471ef2ed22c8fc9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway"],"bodyIntro":"We speak to residents in five of the highest-ranked cities to get the low-down what makes them so special.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter a pandemic slump, quality of life is again on the rise in many of the world's cities. In fact, overall liveability has reached a 15-year high, according to the Economist Intelligence Unit's annual\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eiu.com\u002Fn\u002Fcampaigns\u002Fglobal-liveability-index-2023\u002F\"\u003E Global Liveability Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which rates 173 cities on factors including stability, healthcare, culture &amp; environment, education and infrastructure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe rise comes largely due to healthcare and education gains across Asia, the Middle East and Africa &ndash; even as stability scores have dropped overall in the face of civil unrest amid rising cost-of-living concerns worldwide and continued conflict in cities like Kiev. The end of pandemic restrictions across the world has also improved culture and environment scores as events and attractions have come roaring back.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile an index can put data around what makes a place liveable, it's the people who experience it day in and day out who can speak best to what it's actually like to live there. We spoke to residents in a few of the top 10 ranked cities to find out the reasons they choose to call it home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2k7ct"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Kohlmarkt and Hofburg, Vienna","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EVienna, Austria \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Austrian capital is no stranger to the number one spot in the liveability index, only losing the accolade briefly in 2021 when pandemic closures impacted its museums and restaurants. With perfect scores in stability, healthcare, education and infrastructure, Vienna is more than the sum of its parts, according to residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You basically have a full life circle in one place,\" explained Manuela Filippou, manager of two Michelin-star restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkonstantinfilippou.com\u002F\"\u003EKonstantin Filippou\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and adjoining natural wine bar (both of which she runs with her eponymous chef husband). With its preserved history, reliable public transportation system, affordable childcare and easy access to cafes, theatres and even wineries within the city limits, Vienna can feel like an eternal staycation spot, she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Sometimes, when we work too much and don't get to go anywhere in a long time, we don't even notice it because we can satisfy our hunger for all of the above within the borders of the city,\" Filippou added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor resident Richard Voss, sales &amp; marketing manager at hotel \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hotel-tigra.at\u002F\"\u003EDas Tigra\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the city's liveability is only enhanced by the rich cultural history and activities available here. \"Vienna has a variety of impressive historical buildings, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.schoenbrunn.at\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003ESch&ouml;nbrunn Palace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wien.info\u002Fen\u002Fsightseeing\u002Fsights\u002Fimperial\u002Fhofburg-vienna\"\u003Ethe Hofburg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wien.gv.at\u002Fenglish\u002Fcityhall\u002F\"\u003EVienna City Hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E,\" he said. \"The city is also known for its musical tradition, with famous composers such as Mozart, Beethoven and Strauss having lived and worked here.\" He says residents can easily tap into the these same cultural traditions through the city's numerous museums, theatres and opera houses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe also recommends delving into Vienna's culinary history, sampling traditional dishes like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190805-does-this-schnitzel-define-vienna\"\u003Ewiener schnitzel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcgoodfood.com\u002Frecipes\u002Fclassic-sachertorte\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esachertorte\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and visiting the various markets, such as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wien.info\u002Fen\u002Fdine-drink\u002Fmarkets\u002Fnaschmarkt-353536\"\u003ENaschmarkt\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, to enjoy fresh food and local specialities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2k7c7"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"View of Melbourne CBD and bridge","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMelbourne, Australia\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBoth Melbourne and Sydney regained their rankings (third and fourth respectively) in the top 10 after dropping in the index during the coronavirus pandemic that stressed the Australian healthcare system and resulted in long lockdowns. Melbourne in particular scored the country's highest culture and environment score &mdash; traits that residents rave about.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Melbourne has such an incredible food scene, cultural arts, events and attractions, as well as playing host to all the major international sports and events like the Australian Formula 1 Grand Prix and the Australian Open,\" said Jane Morrell, disability advocate and founder and CEO at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcarersolutions.com.au\u002F\"\u003ECarer Solutions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. She also says the city is easy to navigate, with easy jump-on, jump-off trams that run throughout the CBD and suburbs. It's also just a short drive to get to world-famous beaches and wine country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor blogger Kimmie Conner, originally from California, the city took some warming up to when compared to its counterparts. \"Places like Sydney are beautiful right away, with stunning views, coasts and iconic buildings. But Melbourne isn't a city of landmarks, it's a city of culture; and discovering that takes a bit more digging,\" said Conner, who writes at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.adventuresnsunsets.com\u002Fplaces-to-visit-in-melbourne-attractions\u002F\"\u003EAdventures &amp; Sunsets\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and now chooses to live in the city over any other. \"To discover the pulse of Melbourne, you have to stumble across a tiny coffee shop down a colourful laneway and be served some of the best coffee of your life. You have to try the tasting menus at specialty restaurants around the city and discover hidden cocktail bars &ndash; often hidden behind secret doors or wardrobes.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Melburnians are just so approachable and friendly. There is nothing and no one that this brilliant city does not cater for","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EConner finds people to be more initially welcoming here than in Sydney, while Morrel also cites the positive attitude of residents as a factor that increases liveability. \"Melburnians are just so approachable and friendly,\" said Morrell. \"There is nothing and no one that this brilliant city does not cater for.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2k793"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Cyclist riding along the sea wall bike path in Stanley Park in downtown Vancouver","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EVancouver, Canada \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThree Canadian cities (including Calgary and Toronto) cracked the top 10 this year, but Vancouver ranked the highest (at spot five) for its superior culture and environment scores &ndash; traits that residents point to right away in their love for their city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Vancouver provides easy access to the forest, sea and sky,\" said Tony Ho, a resident and small business owner. \"Our transit system allows you to go from beautiful \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvancouver.ca\u002Fparks-recreation-culture\u002Fenglish-bay-beach.aspx\"\u003EEnglish Bay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the top of the city on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.destinationvancouver.com\u002Factivities\u002Fattractions\u002Fguide-to-grouse-mountain\u002F\"\u003EGrouse Mountain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E all in the same day and by bus, bike, train and boat.\" He also loves the city's diverse cuisine &ndash; a reflection of Vancouver's multicultural makeup &ndash; where you can find everything from Ethiopian injera to Tibentan momos. \"The breadth of food cultures and the people who share them is always growing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a parent of a young child, he also appreciates the numerous parks and beaches &ndash; all less than 20 minutes from the city centre. \"It's something I want my kid to have access to for the rest of his life,\" said Ho.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBusiness owners from other countries are also drawn here for the supportive immigration policies. \"As an entrepreneur and immigrant from Croatia, I was looking for a city that fostered business growth but was also vibrant and accepting,\" said Joe Tolzmann, CEO of mobile platform RocketPlan. \"For starting a business, what Vancouver does so well is the people. There's someone you can reach or services to turn to every step along the way of your entrepreneurial journey. The business community here is extremely supportive and inclusive.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond business, the scenery always offers a welcome repose. \"When I needed a break, there was the ocean on one side and the mountains across the street,\" Tolzmann added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2k788"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Tsutenkaku tower in Osaka's Shinsekai entertainment district","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EOsaka, Japan \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERanked 10th in the index, and the only Asian country to crack the top 10, Osaka scored a perfect 100 across its stability, healthcare and education scores. As cost of living continues to put a squeeze on many household incomes across the world, Osaka's affordability is also a huge plus for residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Rent in Osaka isn't expensive comparing to other metropolises in Japan and in the world,\" said resident Shirley Zhang, who is originally from Vancouver. \"My rent is about [the equivalent of] C$700 [&pound;410] each month with water, internet and maintenance fee included. Although the apartment is small, it's new and clean. If you were to rent a place like mine in Vancouver, it will cost no less than C$1200 [&pound;705].\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDining out at restaurants for less is also a highlight for locals. \"Unlike where I am from in the UK, where dining out can significantly dent the wallet, Osaka provides quality restaurant meals at surprisingly budget-friendly prices,\" said resident James Hills. \"You can afford to eat cooked, tasty meals at restaurants on a daily basis.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city also feels safer than other similar big cities. \"I feel very safe walking home by myself even in the middle of the night,\" said Zhang. She says she never worries about her bag or purse getting stolen, even when they're left unsupervised.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EResidents are quick to take advantage of the reliable public transportation network. \"The city and surrounding area has an extensive train network,\" said Jonathan Lucas, marketing specialist at the Osaka Tourism Bureau. \"It's quick and easy to get out of the city for a day and explore other great locations like Kyoto, Nara and Kobe.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2k777"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Auckland skyline with Sky Tower","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAuckland, New Zealand\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETied at number 10 with Osaka, Auckland climbed more than 25 spots from last year, due in large part to its delayed reopening from the pandemic, where restrictions and mandates weren't fully lifted until September 2022. Alongside its perfect education score, the city also had the highest culture and environment score among the top 10 cities, a data point that residents echoed in their experiences here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EVienna, Austria\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ECopenhagen, Denmark\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EMelbourne, Australia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ESydney, Australia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EVancouver, Canada\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EZurich, Switzerland\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ECalgary, Canada \u002F Geneva, Switzerland\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EToronto, Canada\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EOsaka, Japan \u002F Auckland, New Zealand\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"The Top 10 Most Liveable Cities","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"A beautiful secluded beach is probably within a 20-minute car drive for most living in Auckland, if not closer,\" said resident Megan Lawrence, who blogs at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mymomentsandmemories.com\u002F\"\u003EMy Moments and Memories\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"We have a stunning aquatic playground on our doorstep, with many ways to enjoy it. Likewise, the city is fringed by beautiful native bush, where it's easy to escape and not feel like you're in a city at all.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the largest city in New Zealand, residents also benefit from world-class events, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fsport\u002Ffootball\u002Fwomens-world-cup\"\u003Ethe 2023 FIFA Women's World Cup\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"We get all the best concerts, shows and sporting events right on our doorstep,\" said resident Greg Marett from guided travel company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.aatkings.com\u002F\"\u003EAAT Kings\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Next week, I am going to see Egypt In The Time of the Pharaohs at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.aucklandmuseum.com\u002F\"\u003EAuckland Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe also emphasises the beauty of the city's stunning harbour, with the moored yachts and sailboats giving it the nickname \"The City of Sails\", and recommends first-timers visit the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.maritimemuseum.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EAuckland Maritime Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to learn about the city's maritime history and New Zealand's history of competing in the Americas Cup.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a relatively young and culturally diverse country, New Zealand embraces and adapts to food cuisines from across the world, so both restaurants and supermarkets have many choices on offer, says Lawrence . But what really makes it liveable is the friendliness of the people. \"Most Kiwis are kind, willing to help and always have a cheery hello when you cross paths on a walk,\" she said. \"I love how open with a smile and a hello people are here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fliving-in\"\u003ELiving In\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Travel that discovers what it&rsquo;s like to reside in some of the world&rsquo;s top destinations.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fliving-in","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-26T10:38:01Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The world's most liveable cities for 2023","headlineShort":"World's most liveable cities for 2023","image":["p0g2k7dz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Auckland skyline with Sky Tower from Mount Eden","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"48.2082","longitude":"16.3738","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"We speak to residents in five of the highest-ranked cities to get the low-down what makes them so special.","summaryShort":"Residents in the top-ranked cities explain why they choose to call it home","tag":["tag\u002Fcity","tag\u002Fnews-features"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-25T20:38:36.172763Z","entity":"article","guid":"90799654-ef07-4125-ac19-54eccc7d0af7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023","modifiedDateTime":"2023-07-25T23:04:14.594312Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442530,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fvienna","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmelbourne","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fvancouver","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustria","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnew-zealand","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcanada","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fjapan","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"europe_austria_vienna_australia-and-pacific_australia_melbourne_north-america_canada_vancouver_europe_austria_australia-and-pacific_new-zealand_australia-and-pacific_australia_north-america_canada_asia_japan_europe_asia_north-america"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first","_id":"64a46162a471ef0d5c2c2729","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"With one in six people living with disability, ensuring that cities around the world are accessible to all is vital. But which cities are doing it best, and how?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat do disabled travellers look for when choosing a city to visit? This is important not only to those of us with disability, but also for cities themselves as they seek to tap into a large and growing accessible travel market.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2018 alone, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitbritain.org\u002Fbusiness-advice\u002Fvalue-purple-pound\"\u003Evalue of the so-called \"purple pound\" (the spending power of disabled people) to UK tourism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was estimated at &pound;15.3bn; while 27 million travellers with disabilities in the US took 81 million trips and spent $58.7bn (&pound;45.8bn) in that same year. As tourism recovers from the ravages of Covid-19, the business case for not excluding the 1.3 billion people living with disability &ndash; one-sixth of humanity &ndash; has become even more compelling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA wide-ranging survey by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thevaluable500.com\u002Four-work\u002Freporting\"\u003EValuable 500\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of 3,500 PWD in five countries &ndash; the US, UK, Australia, China and Japan &ndash; around their travel habits and experiences provides invaluable insight into this question. The 2022 survey not only highlights the barriers to travel for people with disability (PWD), but respondents were also asked to nominate the cities they found most accessible and why, from which a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thevaluable500.com\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2022\u002F11\u002F1Valuable-500-Accessible-Cities-Report-2022-1.pdf\"\u003Etop 10\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was compiled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe resulting data provides great understanding into what makes a city attractive to disabled travellers, from the range of accessible accommodation to the availability of accessibility information. Here, we explore four of the top cities, explaining what makes them a good place for PWD to visit and bringing additional insights from knowledgeable residents and visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESingapore\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESingapore has always been an easy travel destination for many compared with much of Asia, partly due to the excellent infrastructure and amenities, and partly because English is the lingua franca. But as a disabled traveller, it's the high degree of accessibility that makes it especially attractive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Singapore, the question is not, \"What is accessible?\" but rather, \"What isn't?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA majority of survey respondents nominated Singapore due to its accessible public transport, which makes getting around the city a breeze. Unlike most underground metros, there is level access to every carriage on Singapore's MRT, which affords wheelchair users and people with impaired mobility both independence and dignity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition, more than 95% of pedestrian walkways, taxi stands and bus shelters are accessible to people living with a variety of impairments, and more than 85% of public buses are wheelchair-accessible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Nilesh Joshi, who relocated from Mumbai to Singapore eight years ago, \"For someone like me, having mobility challenges but not [using] a wheelchair, the city offers huge convenience and allows me to independently move around using public transport and enjoy public amenities.\"&nbsp; \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDeaf and hearing-impaired public transport users are also well catered for: as deaf resident Adrian Yap remarked, \"Whenever there is any announcement on the trains, we can see the instructions written on the screen.\" Yap also noted that \"train officers are well trained to communicate with deaf people\", underscoring the importance of disability awareness training.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOverwhelmingly, however, the most important factor for survey respondents was not physical accessibility but being treated with understanding and respect. This sentiment was echoed by Joshi, who said, \"While infrastructure and government spend is one thing, another major aspect that makes a big difference for mobility-challenged persons are the people of Singapore and their culture. Always smiling, welcoming, helpful and soft-spoken, they make a big difference for PWD to feel accepted and looked after.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of Singapore's major tourist attractions, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gardensbythebay.com.sg\u002Fen\u002Fplan-your-visit\u002Fservices-accessibility.html\"\u003EGardens by the Bay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a unique and enthralling complex of horticultural displays, is fully wheelchair-accessible. There's a free shuttle service for wheelchair users and wheelchair rental for just $2 dollars per day &ndash; indicative of the increasing importance of intergenerational travel, particularly among Asian communities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city's newest major attraction, a phenomenal architectural feat connecting the colonial-era City Hall and former Supreme Court to create the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationalgallery.sg\u002F\"\u003ENational Gallery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, is a model of accessibility. It has a comprehensive, downloadable \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationalgallery.sg\u002Fsites\u002Fdefault\u002Ffiles\u002FNational-Gallery-Singapore-Access-Guide-2022-07.pdf\"\u003Eaccess guide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; developed with the Disabled People's Association of Singapore &ndash; which allows visitors to plan their visit and source information on the accessibility of specific exhibitions or festivals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ELas Vegas\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe visitor economy &ndash; not just tourism, but also the enormously valuable \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cvent.com\u002Fuk\u002Fblog\u002Fhospitality\u002Fwhat-is-mice\"\u003EMICE\u003C\u002Fa\u003E market &ndash; is all-important to Las Vegas. Tourism accounts for \u003Ca href=\"chrome-extension:\u002F\u002Fefaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj\u002Fhttps:\u002Fassets.simpleviewcms.com\u002Fsimpleview\u002Fimage\u002Fupload\u002Fv1\u002Fclients\u002Flasvegas\u002FEIS_Tourism_Dependence_Jan_2019_FINAL_e332cdc1-7e25-4179-b4e9-63e1890adefe.pdf\"\u003E20% of Las Vegas' GDP\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (compared with a national average of 6%) and 30% of jobs (double the national average).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERemarkably, it's home to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.wikipedia.org\u002Fwiki\u002FList_of_largest_hotels\"\u003E14 of the world's largest 25 hotels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and, according to prominent wheelchair blogger John Morris, who maintains the highly informative \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwheelchairtravel.org\u002F\"\u003Ewheelchairtravel.org\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and visits the city three or four times a year, \"The city has one of the highest concentrations of accessible hotel rooms and suites in the world, with hoteliers eager to attract the disability dollar.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cdc.gov\u002Fncbddd\u002Fdisabilityandhealth\u002Finfographic-disability-impacts-all.html\"\u003Eone in four adults in the US living with disability\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (61 million people) this is a significant amount.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany Las Vegas hotels also have a designated Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) specialist to assist guests with disabilities &ndash; and make sure that the hotel doesn't fall foul of the ADA in this litigious country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlmost 60% of US respondents to the Valuable 500 survey nominated Las Vegas because of its wide variety of accessible accommodation, and almost 50% for the accommodation's proximity to attractions. As Morris pointed out, \"The city's expansive resorts can meet every need, with accommodation, dining, spas and entertainment all under one roof.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECasinos and showrooms cater well for both wheelchair users and visitors with other impairments: staff are trained to assist vision- and hearing-impaired people at the gaming tables, and craps dealers will place bets for those who need assistance. Bingo can be played using Braille or large-print cards or even using electronic machines. Some hotels even offer free gaming lessons with sign-language interpreters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe city's other main attractions are also accessible, including the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.caesars.com\u002Flinq\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fattractions\u002Fhigh-roller\"\u003EHigh Roller Ferris Wheel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the tallest observation wheel in the world), hot-air ballooning and the SlotZilla Zip Line and Zoomline, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwheelchairtravel.org\u002Freview-wheelchair-accessible-slotzilla-zoomline-las-vegas\u002F\"\u003Ereviewed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Morris. It's even possible to go \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.k1speed.com\u002Flas-vegas-location.html\"\u003Ego\u003Cspan\u003E karting\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with hand controls. Two of the most famous Las Vegas attractions &ndash; the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbellagio.mgmresorts.com\u002Fen\u002Fentertainment\u002Ffountains-of-bellagio.html\"\u003EFountains of Bellagio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvegasexperience.com\u002F\"\u003EFremont Street Experience\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; are not only accessible, they're also free.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESydney\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJulie Jones, administrator of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002FAccessiblesydney\"\u003EAccessible Sydney\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Facebook group and publisher of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.travelwithoutlimits.com.au\u002F\"\u003ETravel Without Limits\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ethe world's only print magazine dedicated to accessible travel, eulogises the Australian city's accessibility. She and her wheelchair-using son Braeden \"love exploring Sydney and find it to be a wonderfully accessible city\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe majority of Sydney's main attractions, including most of the city's historic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.au\u002Fplaces-nsw\u002F\"\u003ENational Trust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E properties, are accessible by wheelchair. The iconic Sydney Opera House has a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sydneyoperahouse.com\u002Fvisit-us\u002Faccessibility.html\"\u003Esuite of accommodations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for people with access needs, including accessible performances, access programmes and tailored mobility tours. And after years of campaigning, lifts were finally installed at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sydney.com\u002Fdestinations\u002Fsydney\u002Fsydney-city\u002Fsydney-harbour\u002Fsydney-harbour-bridge\"\u003EHarbour Bridge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E four years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Being able to walk or wheel alongside some of the best views of the city is a treat","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJones added: \"The majority of the public transport system is accessible to wheelchair users, including our Sydney ferries, which offer the best views of our beautiful harbour. There are kilometres of level accessible paths around the harbour linking the Opera House to Darling Harbour and beyond. Being able to walk or wheel alongside some of the best views of the city is a treat.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJones' experiences reflect those of the survey respondents, who rated the city highly for its accessible transport links. The city's public transport network, which includes ferries, buses, light rail (trams) and rail, is almost wholly accessible, although assistance from drivers is often required.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Recently, our Sydney rail network became more accessible to people with hidden disabilities with the staff now trained to recognise and respond to travellers wearing the hidden disabilities lanyard,\" Jones said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn addition, vision-impaired visitors will benefit from wide, well-maintained pavements with plentiful tactile ground surface indicators, as well as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au\u002Fpublic-health-safety-programs\u002Fwayfinding-and-signage\"\u003ELegible Sydney Wayfinding System\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that employs more than 2,100 tactile (for touch-reading) and Braille street signs, information pylons and digital technology.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EProvision of information about accessibility &ndash; a key requirement for PWD to plan their trip &ndash; is where Sydney also scored highly. In addition to Transport New South Wales \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftransportnsw.info\u002Ftravel-info\u002Fusing-public-transport\u002Faccessible-travel\"\u003Eaccessibility page\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the city has an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sydney.com\u002Faccessibility\"\u003EAccessible Sydney\u003C\u002Fa\u003E site that's chock-full of useful information arranged thematically: museums and galleries; history and heritage; outdoors and wildlife; bucket-list attractions; and getting around.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ELondon\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELondon also scored highly in the survey, with 57% of respondents nominating it for its accessible transport links, while almost half chose the capital because its cultural attractions have good accessibility support and facilities. Many major museums and galleries have placed a particular focus on accessibility, including the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.accessable.co.uk\u002Forganisations\u002Fthe-british-museum\"\u003EBritish Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationalgallery.org.uk\u002Fvisiting\u002Faccess\"\u003ENational Gallery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.accessable.co.uk\u002Fvenues\u002Ftate-modern\"\u003ETate Modern\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.nhm.ac.uk\u002Fvisit\u002Faccess-at-south-kensington.html\"\u003ENatural History Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's also a wealth of information available for PWD to plan holidays and excursions. Visit London's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitlondon.com\u002Ftraveller-information\u002Fessential-information\u002Faccessible-london\"\u003EAccessible London page\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a rich resource that links to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.accessable.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EAccessAble's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E professionally audited, searchable database of detailed access guides to attractions, hotels, shops and restaurants, among other venues.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccessAble's head of marketing, Carrie-Ann Lightley &ndash; a wheelchair user and formerly information service manager at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tourismforall.org.uk\u002F\"\u003ETourism for All UK\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; is realistic but upbeat: \"London, as with any large city, can be challenging to navigate as a wheelchair user, but there are pockets of excellent accessibility that have me returning to the same areas time and time again. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.accessable.co.uk\u002Flondon-south-bank\"\u003ESouth Bank\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a particular favourite: I love the wide, smooth walkways and easy access to Blackfriars station. A slow roll along the river, stopping at food stalls and watching the street performers is my ideal way to spend a weekend afternoon.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"London, as with any large city, can be challenging to navigate as a wheelchair user, but there are pockets of excellent accessibility","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn line with the survey responses, most forms of public transport are very accessible, with all buses wheelchair-accessible (if often crowded), as are all tram stops and most ferry piers. However only about one-third of Tube stations (and just half of overground stations) have step-free access, so careful planning is necessary before travelling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a blind \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.blindgirladventures.com\u002F\"\u003Etravel blogger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Sassy Wyatt finds London easy to get around: \"I can rock up to any Tube station and use the turn-up-and-go service provided by Transport for London: a member of staff will guide me through the station and get me onto the right line, another member of staff will meet me at the other end and escort me to the exit, saving me lots of mental fatigue.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe recently tested the newly opened Elizabeth Line that runs to Heathrow airport and notes that while \"there is a lot less seating for able-bodied passengers, there is now much more space for guide dogs, wheelchair users and passengers taking luggage\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile visitors can use Transport for London's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftfl.gov.uk\u002Ftransport-accessibility\u002F\"\u003Eaccessibility page\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for comprehensive access information, including downloadable accessibility maps and a tool to plan accessible journeys, Wyatt relies on TFL GO, \"a fully accessible and useful app allowing you to plan a journey and use the step-free category to give you the most accessible routes via bus and Tube across London\". Transport for London also embraces the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhiddendisabilitiesst\"\u003Ehidden disabilities sunflower program\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is gaining wider recognition in the UK.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMartin Heng was formerly Lonely Planet's Accessible Travel Manager, and is now consulting with organisations such as APEC, Tourism Australia and the Global Sustainable Tourism Council to assist businesses to become more inclusive and accessible.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-03T10:53:46Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Four cities putting disabled travellers first","headlineShort":"The world's most accessible cities","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"1.3521","longitude":"103.8198","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With one in six people living with disability, ensuring that cities around the world are accessible to all is vital. But which cities are doing it best, and how?","summaryShort":"With one in six people living with disability, accessibility is vital","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-02T21:54:36.318467Z","entity":"article","guid":"3f0d7483-0762-48cb-a99e-12788eb7d4ce","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first","modifiedDateTime":"2023-07-05T04:55:44.468225Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442530},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future","_id":"64c6c7d0a471ef2ee00a7a68","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmike-maceacheran"],"bodyIntro":"With sustainably minded destinations and progressive tour operators advising passengers to pack less, are travellers being primed for an ultralight future?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW215846888 BCX0\"\u003EAs summer ramps up in the northern hemisphere, many of us will begin packing suitcases, carry-ons and duffel bags as we prepare to head away on holiday.&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW215846888 BCX0\"\u003EFar too many clothes will be packed, of course, followed by sunglasses and swimwear and sandals, last year's suntan lotion and a good book. A sweater or jacket will probably be thrown in too, just in case. Perhaps, some of us will reassess how much luggage we really need to take. Most will not.&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW215846888 BCX0\"\u003EBut with more new ways to reduce your carbon footprint than ever before &ndash; and some destinations toying with banning certain types of luggage outright &ndash; stuffing your life in a suitcase may soon be a thing of the past. After all, by packing less, we create fewer carbon emissions, reduce our travel footprint and become more protective of nature.&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW215846888 BCX0\"\u003ETo highlight how travelling sustainably first starts at home, here are some places that are challenging the long-established idea of packing before you leave &ndash; and offering shortcuts to a more streamlined holiday.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"infographic","image":["p0g30v43"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Passengers in Tokyo with luggage","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW223938030 BCX0\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EJapan&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW223938030 BCX0\"\u003EIn a daring move towards a more sustainable aviation industry, Japan Airlines recently launched a pilot programme giving overseas travellers the option to rent clothes for their stay in the country in advance &ndash; thus eliminating the need to lug and load.&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW223938030 BCX0\"\u003ERunning until the end of August, the \"\u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW223938030 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpress.jal.co.jp\u002Fen\u002Frelease\u002F202307\u002F007481.html\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAny Wear, Anywhere?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" stunt has been fashioned so passengers heading to Japan can check-in or carry-on minimal luggage, meaning the airline can better measure the environmental impact of handling less luggage, as well as lower airplane weight. Once travellers arrive in Tokyo, Osaka or Fukuoka, tailored clothes in a range of sizes and styles are delivered to the hotels where visitors are staying.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW223938030 BCX0\"\u003EHowever, while the concept helps lighten a traveller's load, not everyone is convinced that it's the right approach.&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Personal accountability is important and innovation is great, but we should take care that it doesn't distract us from the real system changes that are needed","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's both a nice idea, and a masterclass in deflection &ndash; a feel-good way to get us to lower our impacts rather than scrutinise theirs,\" said Justin Francis, co-founder and CEO of UK-based activist holiday company \u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW103268424 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Femea01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com\u002F?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.responsibletravel.com%2F&amp;data=05%7C01%7C%7C6c92704775b9448063f908db885637a9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638253676131451189%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&amp;sdata=skvQULo7e%2FHmFTS0hKWqEMJO%2BHNw7niO%2F7Xi%2B8HFvb8%3D&amp;reserved=0\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EResponsible Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Much like voluntary carbon offsets, it shifts the burden of responsibility away from airlines onto individuals. Personal accountability is important and innovation is great, but we should take care that it doesn't distract us from the real system changes that are needed: robust regulation and fairer taxes on fuel, for instance.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g3j92g"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Tarentaise, Alps, France at sunset","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW102419536 BCX0\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EThe Alps&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW102419536 BCX0\"\u003EAround the world, skiers are trying to lower their carbon footprints. But while winter sports holidays have long been the domain of excess oversized baggage costs, there is an element of changing perceptions. A new idea is emerging in resorts across France, Switzerland and Austria: leave the gear at home and rent it at the resort.&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW102419536 BCX0\"\u003ETo counter luggage space &ndash; and also reduce the need for travellers to invest in high-value sports equipment &ndash; resorts and rental companies are emphasising reducing and reusing by renting out hats, gloves, goggles, pants and jackets &ndash; as well as the customary skis, poles, boots, boards and helmets. And for those keen to travel by train or other public transport, it is already a hit, from \u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW102419536 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.skiservice.com\u002Fen\u002Fverbier-ski-clothing-hire\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVerbier\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Switzerland to resorts across Austria thanks to nationwide services like \u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW102419536 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fskigala.com\u002F\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESkiGala\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW102419536 BCX0\"\u003E\"It's easy to pack light for a winter sports holiday when you know you can collect most of the gear you'll need upon arrival,\" said Krissy Roe, senior sustainability manager at \u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW102419536 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hotelplan.co.uk\u002F\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHotelplan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a pan-European group of specialist tour operators, including \u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW102419536 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.inghams.co.uk\u002F\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInghams\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW102419536 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.espritski.com\u002F\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEsprit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Every item manufactured has a carbon footprint, so it's far better that item is well used by multiple customers and can be repaired by people with the skills and tools to give it a longer shelf-life. Cost-wise, it can also be better value to rent in resort, instead of paying for checked bags and oversized luggage on flights.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g78j2w"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Photo of Banje Beach in Dubrovnik","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW164021192 BCX0\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EDubrovnik&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW164021192 BCX0\"\u003EWhile \u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW164021192 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-30151781\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVenice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was the first destination bold enough to consider banning wheelie suitcases to better preserve the city's overcrowded streets in 2014, Dubrovnik has turned the argument into action &ndash; now recommending visitors leave their rolling luggage at home.&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW164021192 BCX0\"\u003ENot for the first time in recent years, overtourism has drawn the ire of locals living in the fortified Adriatic city, and the currents that swirl below the surface have led the Dubrovik Tourist Office to take action. Releasing \u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW164021192 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=sKxCpnxLucQ\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea guidance video\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and updated advice on appropriate visitor etiquette earlier this month, the city now recommends visitors not disturb the historic cobbled streets by carrying &ndash; not dragging &ndash; wheeled baggage around.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW164021192 BCX0\"\u003E\"Often, travellers with 20-plus kilograms of luggage simply fill up their suitcase as they believe they've paid for it,\" explained Pippa Ganderton, product director of \u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW164021192 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhalo.atpi.com\u002F\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EATPI Halo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a CO2 measurement, reduction and offset service and provider of sustainable travel solutions. \"One potential solution that airlines may consider in the future would be adding more weight categories for hand-luggage and carry-on luggage. By offering smaller options, travellers as well as destinations can win while decreasing flight emissions.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g3j9sq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Four giraffes walking in Masai Mara, Kenya","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW260297761 BCX0\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEast Africa&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW260297761 BCX0\"\u003ESafari lodges in national parks across Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda offer a different proposition to most holidays. Despite the high price tag, the vibe is always relaxed and unbuttoned, with dressing down &ndash; not dressing up &ndash; the appropriate look that informs the whole campfire mood.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW260297761 BCX0\"\u003EBut while there is no ban on certain types of luggage, restrictions are commonly in place and there is an expectation for travellers to understand and respect the need to arrive light.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW260297761 BCX0\"\u003EThis battle of the baggage means compact, soft-sided bags have long been favoured by the bulk of tour operators and luggage with wheels or, worse still, those with an in-built frame often won't make it past the departures lounge and onto the runway.&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW260297761 BCX0\"\u003E\"We always advise safari clients to pack light for a number of reasons,\" said Kathy Boate, CEO of \u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW260297761 BCX0\" href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.cartologytravel.com\u002F\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECartology Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a bespoke luxury travel agency. \"There aren't only strict weight restrictions on the smaller planes, but many regions use light aircraft where you can't take hard sided suitcases &ndash; they just won't fit in the hold. Plus, you just don't need a lot of clothes while on safari anyway. Quality lodges also supply toiletries and towels, sunscreen and insect repellent, helping you cut down on your need to pack at home in the first place.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW260297761 BCX0\" lang=\"EN-US\"\u003E---&nbsp;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW260297761 BCX0\" lang=\"EN-US\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW260297761 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW260297761 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW260297761 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Paragraph SCXW260297761 BCX0\" lang=\"EN-US\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003Ca class=\"Hyperlink SCXW260297761 BCX0\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-31T10:27:12Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Are luggage-free trips the future?","headlineShort":"Could luggage be a thing of the past?","image":["p0g30rnj"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aerial view of several suitcases","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"46.0961","longitude":"7.2286","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Aerial view of several suitcases","promoImage":["p0g30rnj"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230606-how-to-tip-around-the-world","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230725-the-worlds-most-liveable-cities-for-2023","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230702-four-cities-putting-disabled-travellers-first"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With sustainably minded destinations and progressive tour operators advising passengers to pack less, are travellers being primed for an ultralight future?","summaryShort":"Some places are challenging the usual idea of packing before you leave","tag":["tag\u002Fsustainability","tag\u002Fnews-features"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-30T20:27:43.025491Z","entity":"article","guid":"7b8e90ea-b34e-4cbc-abea-205ed4744648","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-17T13:59:26.757329Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230730-are-luggage-free-trips-the-future","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fjapan","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fswitzerland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ffrance","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustria","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcroatia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fkenya","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ftanzania","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fuganda","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fafrica"],"destinationStat":"asia_japan_asia_europe_switzerland_europe_france_europe_austria_europe_croatia_europe_africa_kenya_africa_tanzania_africa_uganda_africa","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442529},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women","_id":"64a46161a471ef0d647c5a51","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Despite the growing trend in solo travel, women still encounter challenges when they travel abroad alone. But some places are topping the rankings when it comes to safety and equality.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter a long pandemic pause on travel, people aren't waiting around for a partner to get packing. The interest in solo travel continues to rise worldwide, especially among women.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EResearch by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ncl.com\u002Fnewsroom\u002Fboarding-pass-for-one-over-a-third-of-brits-prefer-solo-trips-to-holidaying-with-other-people\"\u003ENorwegian Cruise Line\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has found that one in three travellers prefers to travel solo, and older women in particular are driving the trend. According to internal research by travel network \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.virtuoso.com\u002F\"\u003EVirtuoso\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the greatest increase in solo travel in 2022 came from women aged 65 and older. While they accounted for only 4% of solo travellers in 2019, they made up 18% of solo travellers in 2022.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite the growing trend in solo travel, women still encounter unique challenges when they venture abroad alone. While everywhere in the world \u003Cem\u003Eshould\u003C\u002Fem\u003E be safe for women to travel, the reality is that women still face discrimination and safety concerns in every part of the world. That said, many countries have put a concerted effort into both improving safety for women and measuring attitudes that female residents have towards safety in their country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo find the places making the most progress when it comes to safety and equality for women travelling, we consulted Georgetown University's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgiwps.georgetown.edu\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2021\u002F10\u002FWPS-Index-2021-Summary.pdf\"\u003EWomen's Peace And Security Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (WPS), the World Economic Forum's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww3.weforum.org\u002Fdocs\u002FWEF_GGGR_2022.pdf\"\u003EGlobal Gender Gap report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the Institute for Economics and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.economicsandpeace.org\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2022\u002F06\u002FGPI-2022-web.pdf\"\u003EPeace Global Peace Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (PGP). We then talked to women who've travelled alone to the top-ranking countries to understand what made them feel safe, hear their own travel tips and find out the best things to see and do as a solo adventurer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESlovenia\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgiwps.georgetown.edu\u002Fcountry\u002Fslovenia\u002F\"\u003ERanked at the top of the WPS index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for Central and Eastern Europe, Slovenia has made big strides in the perception of women's safety in recent years, with 85% of women feeling safe here, according to the index.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen Claire Ramsdell first arrived in Slovenia's capital and largest city Ljubljana, she wandered the streets at night taking photographs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I didn't have trouble with navigation, a language barrier or anything else that might sometimes seem intimidating to figure out when you're solo","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"This could have been a dicey experience elsewhere, but in this case it was a delight,\" said Ramsdell, who is an adventure consultant for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwildlandtrekking.com\u002F\"\u003EWildland Trekking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and runs the travel blog \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthedetoureffect.com\u002F\"\u003EThe Detour Effect\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Nobody ever bothered me at all during my time in the country and I didn't have trouble with navigation, a language barrier or anything else that might sometimes seem intimidating to figure out when you're solo.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe also found the city very walkable and the public transportation across the country reliable and extensive. For those looking to join up with like-minded travellers, she recommends \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fljubljananjam.si\u002F\"\u003ELjubljanayum Food Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffoodtourljubljana.com\u002F\"\u003EFood Tour Ljubljana\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Whether grouped or solo, she says travellers must order a buckwheat walnut \u003Cem\u003E&scaron;truklji\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a filled dough treat, from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.moji-struklji.si\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003EMoji &Scaron;truklji\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which she says is \"one of the best desserts ever\", and try the world-renowned gelato at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcacao.si\u002F\"\u003ECacao\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs an avid hiker, Ramsdell came to Slovenia specifically to explore \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211215-the-walk-of-peace-europes-alps-to-adriatic-hiking-trail\"\u003Ethe vast outdoors and alpine mountains\u003C\u002Fa\u003E across the country, and found they offered an ideal mix of solitude and safety. \"While I often felt like I was in the wilderness, I also always knew a town was nearby if some kind of emergency were to come up,\" said Ramsdell. \"I didn't feel totally alone, which provides peace of mind.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe recommends visitors stop by the turquoise Soča River, which is on the western side of the country close to the Italian border and was a filming location for the Chronicles of Narnia. While hikers can enjoy peaceful walks along the water, even those travelling by car can pull over to explore the high-hanging pedestrian suspension bridges over the river.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERwanda\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith 55% of its parliament made up of women representatives, Rwanda ranks number one in the world for its gender equality in parliament, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgiwps.georgetown.edu\u002Fcountry\u002Frwanda\u002F\"\u003Eaccording to the WPS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It also ranks highly in the index's perception of community safety, and is ranked sixth in the world in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.weforum.org\u002Freports\u002Fglobal-gender-gap-report-2022\u002F\"\u003EGlobal Gender Gap index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which measures how equitable a country is in terms of economics, education, healthcare and political participation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERebecca Hansen saw this first-hand when she moved to Rwanda from Denmark in 2019, finding it to be extremely safe for solo travel. \"There is police, security and military around at almost all locations and all times of day and night,\" she said. \"It may seem intimidating at first, but you will quickly learn that all of these uniforms are friendly people who are always willing to help out.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe said people generally don't bother you but might practise their English with an occasional \"How are you?\" or \"Good morning\", especially from school children. English and French are two of Rwanda's official languages, alongside Kinyarwanda and Kiswahili, lowering the language barrier here. Even people who don't speak English are happy to help and point out directions if you get lost, she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERwanda has long been held up as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cbc.ca\u002Fradio\u002Fideas\u002Fwhy-rwanda-is-held-up-as-a-model-for-reconciliation-26-years-after-genocide-1.5842139\"\u003Ea leader in its peace and reconciliation work\u003C\u002Fa\u003E following the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-africa-26875506\"\u003E1994 genocide of the Tutsi people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The country has multiple memorials, but Hansen suggests visitors experience the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkgm.rw\u002F\"\u003EKigali Genocide Memorial\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the capital, which not only shows the history of genocide here, but also other examples across the globe and the dangers the world still faces from this threat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile it's expensive, visiting the country's mountain gorillas is a must-do for any traveller; but Hansen also recommends \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitrwanda.com\u002Fdestinations\u002Fnyungwe-national-park\u002F\"\u003ENyungwe National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the south-west and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.volcanoesnationalparkrwanda.com\u002F\"\u003EVolcanoes National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the north to see monkeys, or the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.akageranationalpark.org\u002F\"\u003EAkagera National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the east for game drives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EUnited Arab Emirates \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgiwps.georgetown.edu\u002Fcountry\u002Funited-arab-emirates\u002F\"\u003Ehighest scores in the WPS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E within the Middle East and North Africa for women's schooling and financial inclusion, the UAE continues to be a leader in gender equality in the region, and recently reached gender parity in its parliament. It also ranks the highest of all countries in the index in the category of community safety, with 98.5% of women aged 15 years and older reporting that they \"feel safe walking alone at night in the city or area where [they] live\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDubai, in particular, has been ranked as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.insuremytrip.com\u002Ftravel-advice\u002Ftravel-inspiration\u002Fbest-cities-solo-female-travel\u002F\"\u003Esafest city for solo female travellers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E based on an index by the travel insurance company Insure My Trip. Influencer \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fsandyaouad1\u002F\"\u003ESandy Aouad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who splits her time living between Paris and Dubai, says she has always felt safe in the city, even in the outskirts. \"One time I had a flat tyre, I left my car in the middle of the desert, unlocked with the keys inside,\" she said. \"I knew fully well that I could trust the taxi would come to pick me up, and I would be sure the car would be safe.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor solo travellers, she recommends booking a desert safari because it's an easy way to meet a variety of interesting people. But if you're feeling more adventurous, she personally loved \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.skydivedubai.ae\u002Fen\u002Fthe-palm-dropzone\"\u003Eskydiving over the Palm Dropzone\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EJapan\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERanked one of the top-10 safest countries in the world by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visionofhumanity.org\u002Fmaps\u002F#\u002F\"\u003EGlobal Peace Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its extremely low rates of violent crime and low number of external or internal conflicts, Japan has a culture of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjapantoday.com\u002Fcategory\u002Fnational\u002Fone-of-tokyo%E2%80%99s-busiest-subway-lines-is-adding-women-only-cars\"\u003Ewomen-only subway cars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (during certain times and routes) and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpen-online.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fthe-9h-hotel-chain-opens-a-hotel-exclusively-for-women\u002F?\"\u003Ewomen-only accommodations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that can make it feel extra safe for women travelling alone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Due to the depopulation, people not wanting to get married and cherishing as a culture our 'solo time', there are so many things surrounding 'solo' travel","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESolo dining and solo activities are also more of a cultural norm here than elsewhere. \"Due to the depopulation, people not wanting to get married and cherishing as a culture our 'solo time', there are so many things surrounding 'solo' travel,\" said Mika White, who was born in Japan and is the founder of tourism firm \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchapterwhite.com\u002F\"\u003EChapter White\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Magazines always feature the best solo karaoke, solo ramen shops and solo onsen.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELulu Assagaf, who moved here from Indonesia 20 years ago, felt safe here right away. \"The locals make you feel at home and are happy to help strangers,\" said Assagaf, who now works as a tour leader for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.intrepidtravel.com\u002Fus\"\u003EIntrepid Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. If you're travelling to more rural areas, however, she recommends going with a guide as English is less likely to be spoken.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince dining solo is a norm here, Assagaf recommends checking out the food scene, especially in Kyoto, Osaka and Tokyo. Her favourite spot in Tokyo is the Shinjuku San-Chome area, which has lots of restaurants, nightlife and local \u003Cem\u003Eizakayas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a Japanese version of a pub).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor visitors who want to venture outside of the typical tourist spots, she recommends the coastal city of Kanazawa, known for being the home of the samurai; and Takayama in the Japanese Alps. \"Takayama has beautiful traditional architecture and sake breweries,\" she said. She also recommends the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hida.jp\u002Fenglish\u002Ftouristattractions\u002Ftakayamacity\u002Fhistoryandculture\u002F4000159.html\"\u003ETakayama Showa-kan Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which showcases pop culture artefacts from Emperor Hirohito's reign from 1926 to 1989.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENorway\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgiwps.georgetown.edu\u002Fcountry\u002Fnorway\u002F\"\u003ERanked number one in the WPS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for its top scores in women's financial inclusion, absence of legal discrimination and women's community safety &ndash; and consistently ranking in the top 10 of the most \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.weforum.org\u002Fagenda\u002F2022\u002F07\u002Fgender-equal-countries-gender-gap\u002F#:~:text=Iceland%20has%20once%20again%20been,2022%20Global%20Gender%20Gap%20Index.https:\u002F\u002Fwww.weforum.org\u002Fagenda\u002F2022\u002F07\u002Fgender-equal-countries-gender-gap\u002F\"\u003Egender equitable\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fworldpopulationreview.com\u002Fcountry-rankings\u002Fhappiest-countries-in-the-world\"\u003Ehappiest countries in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; Norway has proved to be an inclusive place for travellers of all types, including LGBTQ+ and solo visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOslo resident and founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fupnorway.com\u002Fen\"\u003EUp Norway\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Torunn Tronsvang notes that the culture is socially tolerant and trusting, making it an ideal place for solo women. \"You can comfortably ask someone at a neighbouring cafe table to look after your things whilst you use the restroom,\" she said. She's also proud of how many businesses here are run by women, who have created iconic places to eat and stay in rural areas across the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo get the most out of a visit, Tronsvang encourages visitors to embrace the Norwegian concept of \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fworklife\u002Farticle\u002F20171211-friluftsliv-the-nordic-concept-of-getting-outdoors\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Efriluftsliv\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", a philosophy of living life in the great outdoors. With \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fblogs.nasa.gov\u002Fsolarcycle25\u002F\"\u003ENasa reporting an increase in solar activity\u003C\u002Fa\u003E through 2025, it can be an ideal time to see the Northern Lights with an Arctic trip, dog sledding and snowshoeing by day and staying in family-run igloos and ice hotels at night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fliving-in\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELiving In\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Travel that discovers what it&rsquo;s like to reside in some of the world&rsquo;s top destinations.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-03T10:35:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Five countries that are safer for women","headlineShort":"Five countries that are safer for women","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"46.1512","longitude":"14.9955","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Despite the growing trend in solo travel, women still encounter challenges when they travel abroad alone. But some places are topping the rankings when it comes to safety and equality.","summaryShort":"The interest in solo travel continues to rise worldwide","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-02T20:37:05.344506Z","entity":"article","guid":"799e7c1c-d582-4140-90d5-bcd65b91925d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-02T20:37:05.344506Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230402-five-countries-that-are-safer-for-women","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442530},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love","_id":"64a46161a471ef30c71b6e5a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"We answer every emigrating family's top question: where are the best places to raise children – or, for that matter, to be a child?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor people looking to relocate, rankings of the world's most liveable countries can be helpful. But with kids in tow, there are more factors to weigh than, say, average income or economic stability. You might want to know about local children's health or happiness, the quality of education, family leave policies &ndash; even which countries have the greenest space or playgrounds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's these sorts of factors that Unicef focuses on in its \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fseries\u002Freport-card\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereport cards\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" on child wellbeing. It's important to note that their rankings look only at the world's wealthiest countries &ndash; and not all of the data might be of equal interest to expat families. But their findings help paint an insightful picture of what it's really like to raise kids in countries around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe've drawn on some of this research to try to answer every emigrating family's top question: where are the best places to raise children &ndash; or, for that matter, to be a child?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EJapan\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Unicef's 2020 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FReport-Card-16-Worlds-of-Influence-child-wellbeing.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eanalysis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of children's wellbeing, Japan ranks number one for physical health, which looks at child mortality and obesity. And in Unicef's most recent report card in 2022, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FRC17-EN_Places-and-Spaces_Environments-and-childrens-well-being_Report-Card-17.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewhich specifically looked at the environments children grow up in\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it ranks second for the \"world around the child\" &ndash; a category that includes aspects like urban green space and traffic safety. Japan also has the lowest rate of child obesity, low child mortality and extremely low levels of air or water pollution affecting children.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's also one of the safest countries for families, and not just in terms of road accidents. Japan's overall murder rate is the lowest of any of the countries Unicef looked at: at 0.2 per 100,000, it is a fraction of that in the US (5.3), Canada (1.8) or even Australia (0.8).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Even in the middle of Tokyo, kids just walk around and go to school on their own. It's completely normal because it's really safe","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe safety factor doesn't just mean families can relax a little bit. It also has a huge effect on the freedom children are able to enjoy, according to Mami McCagg, a Tokyo native who now lives in London. \"Kids go to school on their own from the age of six or so. They take the bus or the train if it's not just walking distance,\" she said. \"Even in the middle of Tokyo, kids just walk around and go to school on their own. It's completely normal because it's really safe. No one is really worried about their kids because we don't have to be.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond top marks for health and safety, Japan also has one of the world's top educational systems, coming in 12th among 76 countries and regions, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oecd.org\u002Fpisa\u002Fpublications\u002FPISA2018_CN_JPN.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to OECD assessments\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that Unicef drew on for its data. And it provides generous entitlements for paid parental leave, with each working parent \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthediplomat.com\u002F2022\u002F07\u002Fcan-japans-revamped-childcare-policy-get-workaholic-fathers-to-take-leave\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eoffered around 12 months\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; although the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef.org\u002Fmedia\u002F55696\u002Ffile\u002FFamily-friendly%20policies%20research%202019.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecountry is working on incentivising fathers, in particular, to take it up\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut interestingly, despite the many benefits Japan has to offer families, don't be surprised if locals themselves seem critical, says McCagg. \"You might hear a lot of pessimism, because we always hear about all the positive sides of other countries and compare that to Japan,\" she explained. \"It's also a cultural thing, where you're supposed to 'talk down' about something that you identify with to seem humble. But I would say that Japan is a really nice place to raise children.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEstonia\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Estonia isn't at the top of Unicef's rankings overall, it rates highly for a number of important aspects. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FRC17-EN_Places-and-Spaces_Environments-and-childrens-well-being_Report-Card-17.pdf\"\u003EChildren are exposed to less air pollution, less noise pollution and fewer pesticides\u003C\u002Fa\u003E than in almost any other wealthy country. It has more urban green space than many other nations, including the US, Canada, Australia and the UK, and children are especially likely to say that they enjoy their neighbourhood recreation facilities, such as playgrounds. Estonia also has the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FReport-Card-16-Worlds-of-Influence-child-wellbeing.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esecond-lowest rate of babies born underweight\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of any wealthy country, generally considered to be a good indicator of the quality of prenatal care.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the biggest draws, however, might be Estonia's education system: children have \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oecd.org\u002Fpisa\u002FPISA%202018%20Insights%20and%20Interpretations%20FINAL%20PDF.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebetter maths, science and literacy skills\u003C\u002Fa\u003E than any country outside Asia. Digital skills are emphasised, too. \"Already in kindergartens, there are robotics, smart tablets and so on, all used as part of play-based learning,\" said Anne-Mai Meesak, a project manager at Estonia's education and youth board who researches the country's early education systems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the system's benefits go beyond reading and robotics. A recent \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oecd-ilibrary.org\u002Fsites\u002F15009dbe-en\u002F1\u002F2\u002F5\u002Findex.html?itemId=\u002Fcontent\u002Fpublication\u002F15009dbe-en&amp;_csp_=8512ae85d91acc65dc8eca791cece859&amp;itemIGO=oecd&amp;itemContentType=book#section-115\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOECD report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E found that the average Estonian five-year-old is better at various social-emotional skills, including cooperating with other children and identifying emotions, than those in the US and England. They're also well above the OECD average for self-regulation skills like mental flexibility, working memory and inhibiting impulses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen there is family leave: Estonia has \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FReport-Card-16-Worlds-of-Influence-child-wellbeing.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eone of the most generous policies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of any country in the world, with 100 days of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eesti.ee\u002Fen\u002Ffamily\u002Fbenefits-and-allowances\u002Fmaternity-benefits-and-leave\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ematernity leave\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as well as 30 days of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eesti.ee\u002Fen\u002Ffamily\u002Finvolvement-of-the-father-in-the-process\u002Fpaternity-benefit-and-paternity-leave\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epaternity leave\u003C\u002Fa\u003E followed by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eesti.ee\u002Fen\u002Ffamily\u002Fbenefits-and-allowances\u002Fshared-parental-benefit-and-parental-leave\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E475 days of paid parental leave\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, to be split &ndash; or used part-time &ndash; up until the child is three. For up to 60 of those days, both parents can stay home simultaneously and both be paid. Each parent also receives 10 working days of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eesti.ee\u002Fen\u002Ffamily\u002Fregistering-a-pregnancy-and-notifying-the-employer\u002Fchild-leave\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epaid parental leave\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for each child until the child turns 14. (This leave is available to both permanent and temporary residents of Estonia, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fec.europa.eu\u002Fsocial\u002Fmain.jsp?catId=1108&amp;langId=en&amp;intPageId=5054\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eincluding foreigners\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.) \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESpain\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESpain rated highest in Unicef's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FRC17-EN_Places-and-Spaces_Environments-and-childrens-well-being_Report-Card-17.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eranking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of the environment around children, with especially low levels of children's morbidity due to air or water pollution. And despite having poorer overall offerings in terms of social, education and health services, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FReport-Card-16-Worlds-of-Influence-child-wellbeing.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to Unicef\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, children in Spain have notably high well-being: the county ranks third for kids' mental well-being and fourth for basic academic and social skills. In particular, it's on par with the Netherlands in terms of how many children say they make friends easily (81%), while the adolescent suicide rate is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FReport-Card-16-Worlds-of-Influence-child-wellbeing.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eone of the lowest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of wealthy countries and less than one-third of that in the US, Canada, Australia or New Zealand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's really socially acceptable here to take your kid everywhere – restaurants, bars. It's totally normal to see a family with a small child walking around at midnight","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat doesn't surprise Lori Zaino, who moved to Madrid from Chicago 15 years ago. Now the mother of a toddler, she says that one of the most refreshing aspects of life in Spain is how much the culture embraces children. \"It's really socially acceptable here to take your kid everywhere &ndash; restaurants, bars. It's totally normal to see a family with a small child walking around at midnight,\" she said. \"It takes a lot of that pressure off to keep your kids quiet and toned down, so they don't bother other people. In Spain, no one worries about that. Everyone's kind of happy and loud and just enjoying family time together, out.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen there is its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fec.europa.eu\u002Fsocial\u002Fmain.jsp?catId=1129&amp;langId=en&amp;intPageId=4789#:~:text=Each%20parent%3A%2016%20weeks%20(compulsory,hospitalised%20(maximum%2013%20weeks).\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eparental leave\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: both mothers and fathers each get 16 weeks of leave paid at 100% of their wages (freelancers are eligible, too), after which the mother can take unpaid leave for up to three years, or reduce her hours. These options are available to any legal resident registered with Spain's social security system who has made contributions for at least 180 days in the last seven years. As with the other countries listed, it isn't perfect &ndash; lack of available childcare is one especially big issue, with 33% of parents saying they wish there was more available, the highest rate of any wealthy country &ndash; but it's clear the country has a lot to offer families.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFinland\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFinland, which comes in fifth overall in Unicef's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FRC17-EN_Places-and-Spaces_Environments-and-childrens-well-being_Report-Card-17.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emost recent report card\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, scores especially highly in two of the three categories &ndash; number one in \"world of the child\" (which looks at how the environment directly impacts children, such as with air quality), and number two for \"world around the child\" (which looks at elements of the environment a child interacts with, like schools, traffic hazards and green space).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's one of the world's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oecd.org\u002Fpisa\u002FPISA%202018%20Insights%20and%20Interpretations%20FINAL%20PDF.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etop-performing countries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in terms of children's literacy and maths skills, and parents are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FReport-Card-16-Worlds-of-Influence-child-wellbeing.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eespecially likely to think highly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of their relationship with their children's staff at school. Its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FReport-Card-16-Worlds-of-Influence-child-wellbeing.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emortality rate of children\u003C\u002Fa\u003E aged 5-14 is one of the lowest in the world, less than half of that in the US. And the country offers generous parental leave, including eight weeks of paid maternity leave, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.infofinland.fi\u002Fen\u002Fwork-and-enterprise\u002Femployees-rights-and-obligations\u002Ffamily-leave\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efurther 14 months of paid parental leave\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to be split between the parents, and additional childcare leave that can be applied until a child turns three. (Legal residents of Finland who have been covered by health insurance for at least 180 days before the child's birth in Finland, or in any Nordic, EU or EEA country, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.norden.org\u002Fen\u002Finfo-norden\u002Fparental-benefits-finland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eare eligible\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHadley Dean is a British father of five who has lived with his family in Poland, the Czech Republic and Finland. His family's current stint is their second time living in Finland, he said, and they love it. One benefit is the amount of green space, even in the capital of Helsinki (Finland has \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FRC17-EN_Places-and-Spaces_Environments-and-childrens-well-being_Report-Card-17.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe most urban green space\u003C\u002Fa\u003E per person of any wealthy country). But it isn't just the availability of parks that his family enjoys. \"What's different about Helsinki, or Finland, is that the parks are actually very raw, very natural. They're like a natural forest coming right into the city centre,\" Dean said. \"There's a well-known link between being in nature and not suffering from anxiety and depression, so that's a real positive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat about the dark, cold Finnish winters? They're a price worth paying, Dean says. \"You just get used to it &ndash; you dress accordingly, you have spikes on your shoes when you go out &ndash; and you make the most of it. And summers are absolutely amazing, because you have 22 hours of sunlight.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENetherlands\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EComing in top of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.unicef-irc.org\u002Fpublications\u002Fpdf\u002FReport-Card-16-Worlds-of-Influence-child-wellbeing.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnicef's overall list for children's wellbeing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is the Netherlands, which does especially well in terms of children's mental health (it's number one) and skills (where it ranks third). Nine out of 10 15-year-olds say they have high life satisfaction, the highest proportion of all the countries Unicef examined, and eight in 10 say they make friends easily.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There's this discourse around how Americans try to teach everyone to be exceptional. Here, there's a saying: 'Just be normal, that's already crazy enough'","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome of this is cultural, explained Olga Mecking, a Polish mother of three who has lived in the Netherlands for 13 years and is the author of the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.harpercollins.com\u002Fproducts\u002Fniksen-olga-mecking?variant=39935634669602\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENiksen: Embracing the Dutch Art of Doing Nothing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"There's this discourse around how Americans try to teach everyone to be exceptional. Here, there's a saying: 'Just be normal, that's already crazy enough',\" she said &ndash; a mindset that she thinks makes for a less pressurised childhood, although, as she's written before, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fworklife\u002Farticle\u002F20200225-the-parenting-style-sweeping-europe\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethat may be changing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. There's also a big emphasis on socialising, she added, with groups, clubs and community activities especially common.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut, she says, if Dutch families and children are happy, it's also due to structural factors. \"You can't have Dutch parenting without the Dutch welfare system,\" she noted. \"And the Netherlands really offers parents lots of support.\" Its \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fec.europa.eu\u002Fsocial\u002Fmain.jsp?catId=1122&amp;langId=en&amp;intPageId=4987\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efamily leave policy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is one example. It includes at least 16 weeks of mandated, fully paid maternity leave and up to six weeks of paid paternity leave, plus unpaid parental leave that can be taken up until the child turns eight, and is available to anyone who lives and works legally in the Netherlands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fliving-in\"\u003ELiving In\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a series from BBC Travel that discovers what it&rsquo;s like to reside in some of the world&rsquo;s top destinations.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-02-08T10:54:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The five countries emigrating families love","headlineShort":"The best countries to raise children?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"36.2048","longitude":"138.2529","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"We answer every emigrating family's top question: where are the best places to raise children – or, for that matter, to be a child?","summaryShort":"We answer every emigrating family's top question","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-02-07T22:09:22.729778Z","entity":"article","guid":"5527deba-8621-469e-8eb1-0de595a320b3","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love","modifiedDateTime":"2023-02-17T13:02:17.414259Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230207-the-five-countries-expat-families-love","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442531},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems","_id":"64a4615ba471ef0d1b032317","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"We talk to doctors and residents in top-ranked nations to understand how they’re managing the virus, and what continued challenges lie ahead for residents.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E1. Singapore\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 2. Japan\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 3. Switzerland\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 4. South Korea\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 5. Norway\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 6. Hong Kong\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 7. Iceland\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 8. Denmark\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 9. The Netherlands\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E 10. Austria\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESee the full list \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.prosperity.com\u002Frankings\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Top 10 healthy countries, according to the 2019 The Legatum Prosperity Index","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe fight at the frontlines of Covid-19 is being waged in clinics and hospitals around the world. But the success of that fight has, in large part, depended on the effectiveness of the healthcare systems in each country. So far, there&rsquo;s been a noticeable correlation between a country&rsquo;s ability to contain the virus and previous rankings of its healthcare system to provide positive health outcomes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor this report, we looked specifically at the 2019 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.prosperity.com\u002Frankings\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Legatum Prosperity Index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, conducted by the eponymous London-based think tank, which measures economic and social prosperity policies and conditions based on 12 pillars in 167 nations. The health pillar of the index specifically measures the extent to which people in each country are healthy and have access to the services necessary to maintain good health, including health outcomes, healthy systems, illnesses and risk factors, and mortality rates.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe talked to doctors and residents in some of the top-ranked countries within the health pillar to understand which aspects of the medical establishment have enabled them to manage the virus and its outcomes, what continued challenges lie ahead, and how locals are feeling about living there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EJapan\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ERanked second in the index&rsquo;s health pillar, Japan has been praised globally for its early successful management of Covid-19, though a recent infection spike has put the country back on alert, with the prime minister \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fp088x13b\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eissuing a state of emergency\u003C\u002Fa\u003E across much of the country on 7 April. Despite that, the country has not yet enforced a lockdown, and this is in large part due to the ability of the country&rsquo;s medical system to manage the virus in its early stages.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Many Japanese already wear a face mask, especially in winter and spring, and it is one of the reasons that we don't have a big outbreak yet","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven if residents can&rsquo;t get a Covid-19 test (which are still restricted here to those with severe symptoms), they can visit a local clinic and be quickly diagnosed with a CT scan. &ldquo;A patient with no symptoms can get diagnosed with pneumonia by CT scan even if the patient has a very early stage of pneumonia,&rdquo; said Tokyo-based Dr Mika Washio, a doctor at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fair-dr.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAirDoctor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a service that connects travellers with doctors around the world. &ldquo;Then the patient can get treatment quickly. This is one of the reasons Japan doesn&rsquo;t have many severe cases.&rdquo; Japan is also still working on finding and managing the clusters of infections to minimise the spread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe existing health-conscious culture of Japan has also minimised the impact of the Covid-19 crisis. &ldquo;Many Japanese already wear a face mask, especially in winter and spring, and it is also one of the reasons that we don't have a big outbreak yet,&rdquo; said Washio. &ldquo;Additionally, more than 60% of Japanese have an annual health check-up, and we try to keep [in] good health condition, so it is another cause of less severe cases.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat doesn&rsquo;t mean there might not be challenges ahead. Washio notes that many patients who are diagnosed should be at the hospital under normal circumstances, but the country is trying to save the beds for the most severe cases as the government prepares additional resources.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESouth Korea\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EComing in at fourth place in Legatum&rsquo;s health pillar, South Korea was particularly prepared to handle the Covid-19 outbreak after the experience of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-33684981\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Econtaining Middle-East respiratory syndrome (Mers)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2015. Healthcare providers and hospitals were already equipped and trained to act in such a crisis. The country has been able to test more than 450,000 people, just under 1% of its population of 51 million, and the daily new caseload has been hovering at just 47 to 53 infections in recent days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Objectively, the outbreak is definitely on the down-trend","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe nature of Korea&rsquo;s healthcare system also contributed to the early diagnosis and treatment of Covid-19 across its population, where every citizen is covered by the National Health Insurance Service (NHIS). &ldquo;Due to relatively low medical cost thanks to universal public insurance coverage coupled with government-driven price setting, in addition to a fee-for-service model, imaging and lab tests are widely performed in South Korea's healthcare system,&rdquo; said Seoul-based Dr Brandon B Suh, also the CEO of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flunit.io\u002Fen\u002Fcovid19\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELunit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a company working to give AI tools to healthcare providers. &ldquo;With the Covid-19 outbreak, many [people] were diagnosed early and proper management was applied in a timely manner.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe government and businesses have also moved quickly moved to implement effective health measures. &ldquo;The government stabilised the supply of masks by implementing a new measure in the purchase of the mask, matching each day with the last digit of the birth year,&rdquo; said Seoul office worker Yongbok Lee. &ldquo;Many [places] check body temperatures before entering buildings and large buildings even have thermal cameras installed. The Korea Centers for Disease Control and Prevention&nbsp;and other government agencies are working hard in the front line, and people are showing great appreciation towards the efforts they put in.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200322-five-superpowers-ruling-the-world-in-2050\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world&rsquo;s next superpowers \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200405-covid-19-how-global-economies-will-recover-from-coronavirus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhich countries will recover first?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190414-living-in-a-country-that-thinks-green\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFive countries saving the planet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPrivate insurance is also popular here as well, with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.insurancebusinessmag.com\u002Fasia\u002Fnews\u002Fbreaking-news\u002Fprivate-health-insurance-still-booming-in-south-korea-118259.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E77% of citizens enrolled\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to cover costs that the NHIS does not cover, according to Insurance Business Asia magazine. This can be a bonus, by sometimes enabling access to a better quality of care and the use of cutting-edge technology, but Suh cautions that the system can sometimes encourage lucrative invasive procedures even when clinical evidence is lacking. &ldquo;There needs to be a transition to a more value-based healthcare model,&rdquo; Suh said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOverall, the success of the early interventions here has brought more hope than despair. &ldquo;Objectively, the outbreak is definitely on the down-trend,&rdquo; said Suh. &ldquo;People have started to resume outdoor activities, although everyone still puts on a mask at all times.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a resident of Daegu, one of the hardest hit areas, Won-Jeong Whang is starting to see things become stable. &ldquo;We go out for a quick walk around the neighbourhood, but we still try not to go to crowded or confined places. I believe that it is right, for the safety of the society and the individuals, to stay home with limited movement,&rdquo; she said. Still, she looks forward to the day when she can go to the parks and amusement parks that her child loves. &ldquo;I'd love to go out with friends to chat and drink and enjoy our time together.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFreshman student Woobaek&nbsp;Lee, based in in Chuncheon, Gangwon-do Province, also looks forward to the new normal. &ldquo;I&rsquo;m looking forward to offline classes,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;The first thing I'd want to do when this is all over is to make friends in university.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIsrael\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen it came to monitoring and reacting to the emergence of Covid-19 in Wuhan, few countries moved more swiftly than Israel, ranked 11th in the health index. By the end of January 2020, the Minister of Health had already signed the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.health.gov.il\u002FEnglish\u002FNews_and_Events\u002FSpokespersons_Messages\u002FPages\u002F27012020_3.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPeople's Health Ordinance Decree\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to expand the Ministry's powers to deal with the potential outbreak. While the measures, which included avoidance of non-essential international travel and home isolation for 14 days for citizens who returned from &ldquo;hot spots&rdquo;, may have seemed strict early on, the action has paid off in an overall lower rate of infection and hospitalisations than other similarly sized countries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccurate testing was also established early on in Israel. &ldquo;A molecular diagnostic test (RT-PCR) to detect coronavirus in respiratory samples was developed very early by the Central Virology Laboratory, and was expanded to numerous laboratories across the country,&rdquo; said Dr Khitam Muhsen, professor of epidemiology and preventive medicine at Tel Aviv University and one of the consultants to the Ministry of Health in Israel regarding the Covid-19 crisis. &ldquo;Israel is among the leading countries in the number of coronavirus tests per million population.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;I'm actually very proud of the number of tests that we are doing here and we are among the top testers, which is why our numbers are so high,&rdquo; said Talia Klein Perez, who lives in Kfar Saba (north-east of Tel Aviv) and blogs at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhulwithkids.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHul With Kids\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. &ldquo;On the other hand, our mortality rate is one of the lowest and I believe that the fairly quick quarantine is part of it.&rdquo;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Israel is among the leading countries in the number of coronavirus tests per million population","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe publicly based healthcare system also allows for a more integrated and centrally controlled response. &ldquo;People are not afraid to reach out for medical help because they know they will be covered and it will be free of charge,&rdquo; said Professor Arnon Afek, deputy director general of Israel's Sheba Medical Center, the first hospital in the country to treat coronavirus patients. &ldquo;The cost of the healthcare system is very important, because in a situation like this, you want people to seek out care when they have symptoms so we can find them and they won&rsquo;t continue to spread the disease.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne downside, according to Afek, is that not enough of Israel&rsquo;s GDP is directed toward healthcare, which means fewer resources. &ldquo;However, this means that we are very efficient, extremely active and quick to adapt,&rdquo; said Afek. &ldquo;At Sheba, we are always thinking two steps ahead and trying to solve problems before they arise. We projected forward and built a dedicated coronavirus ICU and trained additional physicians to work there before the caseload rose significantly. When the patients came, we were prepared.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe country also has unique challenges in its diverse population. The ultra-orthodox community, for example, does not consume traditional media and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-middle-east-52189059\u002Fcoronavirus-israel-s-ultra-orthodox-lockdown-challenge\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eexperienced a larger outbreak\u003C\u002Fa\u003E than the rest of the country. &ldquo;We had to learn to approach them in a different way,&rdquo; said Afek. &ldquo;Now that we have reached them, they are fully committed to stopping the spread.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn light of the lockdown, Klein Perez is staying positive by mentally preparing for things to be on hold for a long time. &ldquo;I find that it's easier to expect a longer lockdown and be surprised, than expect it to be short and be depressed,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;I mostly look forward to some quiet and time alone,&nbsp;[and] coffee with friends. Flights and restaurants are still quite a way off; they are saying possibly September.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGermany\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWith an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200401-coronavirus-why-death-and-mortality-rates-differ\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eoverall lower Covid-19 mortality rate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E than many of its European neighbours, Germany &ndash; ranked 12th in health in the index &ndash;&nbsp;has been hailed as an international success story, but experts there caution that the country isn&rsquo;t yet out of the woods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There are a lot more beds available, a lot more ICUs and more doctors","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Vastly higher levels of testing in Germany can create an illusion around how well the country&rsquo;s healthcare is coping, and also how low the mortality rate actually is in comparison to other countries,&rdquo; said Francis de V&eacute;ricourt, chaired professor of management science at the European School of Management and Technology in Berlin and keynote speaker at the International Congress on Infectious Diseases. However, the wide testing capabilities of the country have led to success at separating sick and asymptomatic patients from the healthy population, helping contain the spread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis low rate of infection could potentially backfire if the country is not careful. &ldquo;With less people having Covid-19, it means less people are immune,&rdquo; said de V&eacute;ricourt. &ldquo;Therefore, relaxing our behaviour and relaxing social-distancing measures should only occur when the country has virtually wiped out Covid-19 cases, otherwise there could be another big wave.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EResidents are resigned to the fact that things won&rsquo;t be back to normal in the near future but are trying to stay hopeful. &ldquo;The hardest thing for me is to keep my mum from leaving the house,&rdquo; said Ingrid Gruhs, resident of Murnau am Staffelsee on the edge of the Bavarian Alps, &ldquo;so, this is why I made a mask for her and went shopping with her today for the first time after three weeks; it was so important for her to do the shopping herself.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;As the number of new infections is decreasing, I believe that is the right move now to think about how to ease the measures. I trust that the authorities will do their best to find a good balance between getting back to normal circumstances and maintaining rules and regulations to protect people.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's a good opportunity to relax and take time for things I normally don't do","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe country&rsquo;s healthcare system is well-positioned when it comes to mounting an effective country-wide response. As a federal system (with power given to states) as opposed to a national programme like the UK or France, Germany has distribution built in. &ldquo;There are a lot more beds available, a lot more ICUs and more doctors,&rdquo; said de V&eacute;ricourt. &ldquo;The management of these resources are further decentralised, and hence falls to the responsibility of the local government. This means that all political parties, from the left to the right, have a responsibility. This facilitates cooperation, key to contain a pandemic and care for the patients.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;I feel very privileged&nbsp;to live in Germany and I was very glad when the Bavarian government set the lockdown, a necessary and good reaction in a very difficult situation,&rdquo; said Laura Gruhs, a student at the Technische Universit&auml;t M&uuml;nchen. &ldquo;I had originally planned to go to Buenos Aires for a semester abroad beginning in July. This won't happen probably, which makes me really disappointed. I know that I'm still very lucky, so I try not to complain about the restrictions I have to make in my personal life. It's a good opportunity to relax and take time for things I normally don't do.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe real test will be the medical system&rsquo;s management of supply chain concerns, which spawn well beyond the medical considerations like hospital staff, ventilators and PPE. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s not only the number of beds, but everything down to the number of supplies available to staff and patients,&rdquo; said de V&eacute;ricourt. &ldquo;As one example, the increase in hand sanitiser purchasing made it virtually out of stock in many European countries. However, there was still hand gel available, just no plastic bottles to put them. This highlights the impact of items you wouldn&rsquo;t even expect on the healthcare supply chain.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAustralia\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EComing in at 18th in the health pillar in the index, Australia has currently managed to keep the growth rate of cases to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Fnews\u002F2020-04-08\u002Fchart-shows-slowdown-in-new-coronavirus-cases\u002F12133558\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eless than 5%\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; &ldquo;well beyond our expectations&rdquo; and projected case models, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pm.gov.au\u002Fmedia\u002Fpress-conference-australian-parliament-house-6\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to the Prime Minister\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in an address to the country on 7 April.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAustralia&rsquo;s &ldquo;blended&rdquo; healthcare system, a mixture of universal coverage through Medicare and a much-used private system, has helped prepare the country for any worst-case scenarios. &ldquo;In the current pandemic, this two-tier system is particularly suitable to accommodate projected increase in demand for emergency services and ICU beds,&rdquo; said Dr Alex Polyakov, clinical senior lecturer at the University of Melbourne. &ldquo;The federal and state governments directed all non-essential surgeries to be postponed. This allowed the private hospitals to be placed on standby for the anticipated influx of Covid-19 patients.&rdquo; That, in combination with the federal government agreeing to financially back private hospitals in exchange for using beds and staff, has essentially doubled the capacity of the public system.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-27"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-28"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAustralia has also seen a low incidence of local transmission, and the government introduced rapid contact tracing and mandatory quarantine for those who travelled overseas or had contact with an infected individual. &ldquo;In the event that local transmission can be kept at bay, I would anticipate very low daily increase in numbers over a long period of time,&rdquo; said Polyakov. &ldquo;That is the very definition of a &lsquo;flattened&rsquo; curve.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;When the Covid-19 pandemic started to really kick off I was actually based in Sri Lanka. Things quickly escalated there, resulting on my having to bounce out of the country at 48 hours&rsquo; notice,&rdquo; said Chris Stevens, who blogs at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fstokedfortravel.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStoked For Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. &ldquo;I had two options, head back to Europe to my parents&rsquo; place or head to&nbsp;Australia&nbsp;at my brother&rsquo;s house. After a quick chat with my Dad, a paramedic of 40 years, he advised me&nbsp;Australia&nbsp;was the better option.&rdquo; Stevens had to self-isolate for 14 days upon entering the country as a precaution to stem the spread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIf current trends continue, it&rsquo;s expected that the Australian healthcare system will be able to manage the expected increase in need for ventilators and ICU beds. &ldquo;The availability of extra capacity provided by the private system will allow for the majority of people who may require such interventions to receive them in a timely manner,&rdquo; said Polyakov.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter the shutdowns are eased, residents are awaiting a return to the simple pleasures. &ldquo;I look forward to a simple cup of coffee in the sunshine at my favourite cafe with my best friends having a laugh,&rdquo; said Sydney-based&nbsp;Jennifer De Luca, who writes at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.luxuryadventuretravel.com.au\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELuxury Adventure Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. &ldquo;Something that we used to do weekly and an activity that I completely took for granted.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-29"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-30"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fliving-in\"\u003ELiving In\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a series from BBC Travel that discovers what it&rsquo;s like to reside in some of the world&rsquo;s top destinations.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems-31"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-04-20T23:13:45Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The healthiest countries to live in","headlineShort":"Which countries are healthiest?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"We talk to doctors and residents in top-ranked nations to understand how they’re managing the virus, and what continued challenges lie ahead for residents.","summaryShort":"What can the rest of the world learn from their healthcare systems?","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:47:52.213029Z","entity":"article","guid":"a8021a7f-f1ef-4354-bd93-18168d075ec8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:07:40.252056Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200419-coronavirus-five-countries-with-the-best-healthcare-systems","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442531},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise","_id":"64a46161a471ef0d63137a33","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Stretching 185km across the mountains to the Iraq-Iran border, it's a stunning feat of engineering that nearly didn't happen.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Every journey should begin with a cup of tea,\" said my guide Omer Hussein, as we ordered a round in the Machko teahouse in Erbil, the capital of the semi-autonomous region of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-middle-east-28147263\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKurdistan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in northern Iraq. \"But we should drink it the Kurdish way,\" he added, indicating how to sip the unsweetened liquid through a sugar cube held between the teeth. \"The extra energy will be useful for the long drive ahead.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInvigorated with caffeine and sugar, we jumped into Hussein's car and set off along the Hamilton Road. Stretching 185km from Erbil across the imposing Zagros Mountains to the town of Haji Omeran on the Iraqi Kurdistan-Iran border, the road is not only considered one of western Asia's most spectacular routes, but one of its most audacious feats of engineering.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBuilt between 1928 and 1932, it was named after lead engineer AM Hamilton, a New Zealander working for the British when they took control of Iraq following the collapse of the Ottoman Empire at the end of World War One. The road was part of a grander plan to form a British-controlled trade route linking the Persian Gulf with the Caspian Sea, and it was built across largely unmapped terrain in the face of extreme weather, widespread pestilence and tribal conflict.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Many Kurds still consider Hamilton and his workers as heroes for what they achieved,\" said Hussein, as the adobe ramparts of Erbil's ancient citadel slowly disappeared behind us in the rear-view mirror. \"What used to take forever on a mule can now be done in a leisurely two days on smooth tarmac; the Hamilton Road takes you into the most beautiful parts of Kurdistan in the process.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe cleared the city's suburbs, passing by glittering new mega-malls and mosques until we came upon a much more storied construction 27km away near the village of Banaman: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kurdistan24.net\u002Fen\u002Fstory\u002F26476-Khanzad:-An-ancient-castle-and-a-legendary-female-Kurdish-leader\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKhanzad Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the former residence of Khanzad, the so-called \"Kurdish Warrior Queen\" who ruled over parts of the region in the 16th Century. Hamilton also recalled Khanzad Castle in his memoir \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomsbury.com\u002Fus\u002Froad-through-kurdistan-9780857716521\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoad Through Kurdistan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in which he described the rough track of road near the fortification that he was tasked with upgrading as \"an endless zigzag&hellip; with an unfinished surface of sharp rocks\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"That was a comparatively easy job for Hamilton,\" said Hussein. \"Far more difficult and dangerous terrain lay ahead: places with no tracks at all, places where few people had ever set foot.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe continued north-east for 40km to Shaqlawa, the site of one of Hamilton's earliest road-building camps. Back then, Shaqlawa was just a tiny village; today it's one of the largest cites on the Hamilton Road, home to 25,000 people and renowned for its honey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn a busy market day, we found the streets alive with tourists and locals &ndash; the Kurdish women wearing brightly coloured \u003Cem\u003Ekras\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (floor-length dresses), the men sporting traditional \u003Cem\u003Ejamadani\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (headdresses) and baggy trousers tied with \u003Cem\u003Epshten\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (cummerbunds.) We entered a health food store belonging to beekeeper Sabah Nasir to sample some of his wildflower honey. He told us his honey's unique floral, menthol, citrus and pine notes are because he moves his colonies along the Hamilton Road to feed on a wide variety of pollens throughout the seasons. The road has brought him other benefits too, notably more customers.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Kurdish diaspora come from as far away as Australia and the USA; they buy kilos of my honey at a time,\" Nasir said. \"Westerners pass through here on their way to explore the Zagros Mountains and to climb Mount Halgurd. Hamilton's road has helped open up trade and bring modern tourism; it has opened us up to the world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHamilton met his first major engineering obstacle 32km north of Shaqlawa: a 198m-high ridge rising from the desert plains to the village of Spilk, which he described as \"a lonely spot with an unsavoury reputation for robbery and murder\". To build a road up through the \"great boulders higher than a standing man\", he assembled an eclectic army of Kurdish, Arabic and Persian workers for the hard labour, while the project overseer was an Assyrian Christian, the surveyor a Bengali Hindu and the explosives expert an Armenian Jew. With so many religious beliefs to accommodate, Hamilton proposed that as a compromise, nobody should have a holy day of rest, and so they toiled seven days a week, enduring temperatures of 40C, venomous snakes and outbreaks of malaria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There were tribal blood feuds going on all around them, too,\" said Hussein, as we drove up the looping hairpin bends that they went on to construct. \"The workers would show Hamilton the skulls and dead bodies that they found amongst the rocks. It was an extraordinary achievement to get them to complete their mission at all.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe crested the ridge at Spilk, where the road narrowed from four lanes to two. Hamilton described the path ahead as a \"50-mile maze of gorges and canyons\", but he relished the scale of this particular challenge, setting up camp near the waterfalls of Gali Ali Bag where he would remain for two years. Following ibex and goat tracks, he began mapping out the shortest possible route through the canyonlands and ordered specialist equipment from England, including jackhammers, air-compressors, steam rollers and steel bridge parts that were shipped by boat, train and truck thousands of miles to Shaqlawa, before a caravan of camels carried them up to his mountain base.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHamilton and his 1,000 workers then laboured day and night, toiling under the light of hurricane lamps after dark, when the roar of snow leopards could be heard on the mountaintops. Over many months, they drilled and blasted their way through the ravines in searing heat and bitter cold as they endured attacks of dysentery and \"plagues of locusts flying in clouds so dense they darkened the sun\". Eventually, they cleared a way through the rock labyrinth with a smooth ribbon of bitumen and five new river bridges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe stopped near the Gali Ali Bag waterfalls to admire a now-disused stretch of that original road: a half-tunnel carved into a sheer precipice. \"My grandparents drove along here until it was diverted in the 1970s, terrified that the mountain would come down on them,\" said Hussein. \"For a quarter-mile it was so narrow only one car could pass at a time. They'd honk their horns as a warning and pray for no oncoming traffic in case they all got stuck.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe stopped for the night at the foot of Mount Halgurd in Hussein's hometown of Choman, where we dined on the much-loved Iraqi national dish of \u003Cem\u003Emasgouf\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: roasted, spatchcocked carp. We shared the earthy, muddy-flavoured fish with his friend Sadik Dealzi, a sociologist, who told us he saw two principal side effects of Hamilton's road for the Kurds. The first was that schools were built in a region with high illiteracy rates, which led to the education of male and female doctors, lawyers and engineers &ndash; something unheard of at the time. Secondly, it linked the scattered mountain communities, giving them a sense of common identity and a desire to preserve their traditions and beliefs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELater that evening, Hussein's wife, Nasreen, shared a story of one such local belief. Years ago, her grandfather-in-law had gone missing on Mount Halgurd after an avalanche and was presumed dead. \"So, the family went looking for a pure-black cockerel,\" she said. \"It was taken to the slopes where it walked about on the snow for a long time until it suddenly stopped and crowed &ndash; only once. In that same spot, they dug and found the corpse. We don't need a helicopter or mountain rescue &ndash; we have the black cockerel.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe next morning, after a traditional breakfast of flatbread, sheep's yoghurt and honey, we set out, stopping briefly to pick up an elderly hitchhiker, Ahmed Ali, who was heading home to Haji Omeran laden with purchases from Choman's bazaar. As the road climbed, the landscapes softened into broad, gently sloping valleys. For Hamilton, construction of this final serpentine stretch was a breeze: \"What was left to do we could take in our stride,\" he wrote. Our own progress was rather more faltering, brought to regular standstills by sluggish diesel trucks heading for the border and flocks of fat-tailed sheep crossing the road on their way to fresh highland pastures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even though the road has brought the farmers new markets for their mutton and tail fat (popular amongst mountain Kurds as cooking oil), in many ways, their lives are just as hard as they were centuries ago,\" said Hussein. \"Brown bears and wolves kill the sheep, and eagles steal the young lambs.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETwo hours later, we finally pulled into Haji Omeran, a scruffy, scrappy kind of town with a frontier feel. Ali explained that many of the town's 500 or so families were part-time residents, choosing to escape the harsh winters for the relative comforts of Erbil. \"Only a few of us brave the -20C temperatures and 10ft snow drifts. It makes you realise what Hamilton and his workers went through all those years,\" he said, before collecting his belongings from the car boot. \"But only by suffering the winter can you truly appreciate the beauty of spring, summer and autumn. Those are the times to come here. Then you will see how Hamilton built a road to a Kurdish paradise.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the time his job was complete, Hamilton had fallen in love with Kurdistan &ndash; so much so that he was too emotional to bid his team farewell. Instead, he wrote of his final glimpse of the \"wilderness of snow-bound peaks, barren as the mountains of the moon\", adding \"the picture of it all will live forever in my memory\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eis a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-01-20T15:37:22Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Hamilton Road: A highway to a Kurdish paradise","headlineShort":"Asia's audacious British-built road","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"36.191111","longitude":"44.009166999999934","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Stretching 185km across the mountains to the Iraq-Iran border, it's a stunning feat of engineering that nearly didn't happen.","summaryShort":"It's a stunning feat of engineering that nearly didn't happen","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-01-19T22:09:32.978999Z","entity":"article","guid":"48adc5df-0532-4123-bda9-6cd0a4e2fae3","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise","modifiedDateTime":"2023-01-20T17:08:10.990851Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442534},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids","_id":"64a46160a471ef0d4279367b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Egypt may have the Pyramids of Giza, but Iraq has the Ziggurat of Ur – an incredibly well-preserved engineering achievement that towers over the ruins of an important ancient city.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world &ndash; and this is one our favourites.)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAround 4,000 years ago, this pale, hard-packed spit of Iraqi desert was the centre of civilisation. Today the ruins of the great city of Ur, once an administrative capital of Mesopotamia, now sit in a barren wasteland near Iraq's most notorious prison. In the shadow of the towering prison fences, Abo Ashraf, the self-proclaimed caretaker of the archaeological site, and a handful of tourists are the only signs of life for miles. At the end of a long wooden walkway, an impressive ziggurat is nearly all that remains of the ancient Sumerian metropolis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo get here, I'd been packed into the backseat of a taxi hurtling through the desert for hours, until I began to see the city's famed monument looming in the distance: the Ziggurat of Ur, a 4,100-year-old massive, tiered shrine lined with giant staircases. A tall chain link fence barricading the entrance and a paved parking lot were the only hints of the modern world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe very first ziggurats pre-date the Egyptian pyramids, and a few remains can still be found in modern-day Iraq and Iran. They are as imposing as their Egyptian counterparts and also served religious purposes, but they differed in a few ways: ziggurats had several terraced levels as opposed to the pyramids' flat walls, they didn't have interior chambers and they had temples at the top rather than tombs inside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A ziggurat is a sacred building, essentially a temple on a platform with a staircase,\" said Maddalena Rumor, an Ancient Near-East specialist at Case Western Reserve University in the US. \"The earliest temples show simple constructions of one-room shrines on a slight platform. Over time, temples and platforms were repeatedly reconstructed and expanded, growing in complexity and size, reaching their most perfect shape in the multi-level Ziggurat [of Ur].\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Ziggurat of Ur was built a bit later (about 680 years after the first pyramids), but it is renowned because it is one of the best-preserved, and also because of its location in Ur, which holds a prominent place in history books. According to Rumor, Mesopotamia was the origin of artificial irrigation: the people of Ur cut canals and ditches to regulate the flow of water and irrigate land further from the Euphrates River banks. Ur is also believed to be the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.csmonitor.com\u002FScience\u002F2013\u002F0404\u002FHome-of-Abraham-Ur-unearthed-by-archaeologists-in-Iraq\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebirthplace of biblical Abraham\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and, as Ashraf explained while he walked us through the ruined walls of the city, the home of the first code of law, the Code of Ur-Nammu, written around 2100 BCE &ndash;&nbsp;400 years before Babylonia's better-known Code of Hammurabi.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"In Mesopotamia, every city was believed to have been founded and built as the residence of a god\u002Fgoddess&hellip; who acted as its protector and political authority,\" Rumor said. In Ur, that was Nanna the moon god &ndash; for whom the ziggurat was constructed as an earthly home and temple. \"The cult of Nanna developed very early around the lower course of the Euphrates (at the centre of which was Ur) in connection with the herding of cows and the cycles of nature that increased the herd,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe structure's lower tiers remain today, though the temple and upper terraces at the top have been lost. To figure out what they looked like, specialists have used all kinds of technology and ancient writings (from historians like Herodotus, as well as the Bible). In her 2016 paper, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fssrn.com\u002Fabstract=2797629\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Ziggurat and the Moon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Amelia Sparavigna, an archaeological imaging specialist with the Polytechnic University of Turin, wrote, \"[Ziggurats] were pyramidal structures with a flat top, with a core made up of sun-baked bricks, covered by fired bricks. The facings were often glazed in different colours...\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBased on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penn.museum\u002Fsites\u002Fjournal\u002F1235\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eremnants found at the site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it has been generally agreed that the Ziggurat of Ur held a cerulean temple sitting atop two massive mud-brick tiers. The base alone consisted of more than 720,000 meticulously stacked mud bricks, weighing up to 15kg each. Reflecting Sumerian knowledge of the lunar and solar cycles, each of the ziggurat's four corners pointed in a cardinal direction as exact as a compass, and a grand staircase to the upper levels was oriented toward the summer solstice sunrise.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI could see the remains of this great achievement as Ashraf led me and the other few tourists to the main staircase. He knows the site well: he moved here with his father 38 years ago to assist with archaeological digs, and his family home lies just steps from the entrance. Once I reached the summit, I could imagine the ancient kingdom sprawling out in every direction thousands of years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKing Ur-Nammu laid the ziggurat's first brick in 2100 BCE, and construction was later completed by his son King Shulgi, by which time the city was the flourishing capital of Mesopotamia. But by the 6th Century BCE, the ziggurat was in ruins thanks to the desert's extreme heat and harsh sand. King Nabonidus of Babylonia set to work restoring it around 550 BCE, but instead of re-creating the original three tiers, he built seven, aligning with other grandiose Babylonian structures of the time, such as the Etemenanki ziggurat, which \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftechnology\u002Fziggurat\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esome believe was the famed tower of Babel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe bulk of the ziggurat remains intact today largely due to three ingenious innovations by the original Sumerian engineers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFirst was ventilation. As with other ziggurats, this one was constructed with a core of mud bricks surrounded by an exterior of sun-baked bricks. And since that core retained moisture that could have led to the overall degradation of the structure, the Sumerians bored hundreds of square holes into the outer walls to allow for quick evaporation. Rumor explained that without this detail, \"the mud-brick interiors could soften during heavy rains, and eventually bulge or collapse\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESecond, the walls were built at a slight slant. This allowed water to flow down the ziggurat's sides, preventing pooling on the upper levels; the angle made the structure appear larger from a distance, intimidating the empire's enemies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELastly, the temple on top was built with fully baked mud bricks held together by bitumen. This naturally occurring tar staved off water seepage into the unbaked core.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite these achievements, by the 6th Century CE, the once-thriving metropolis had metaphorically and physically dried up. The Euphrates River had changed its course, leaving the city without water and therefore uninhabitable. Ur and the ziggurat were abandoned and subsequently buried beneath a mountain of sand by wind and time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt wasn't until 1850 that the remains of the ziggurat were found again; later, in the 1920s, British archaeologist \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penn.museum\u002Fsites\u002Fjournal\u002F1235\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESir Leonard Woolley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E led an in-depth excavation of the monument, uncovering what was left of the structure and digging up gold daggers, carved statues, delicate lyres and intricate headdresses \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.metmuseum.org\u002Ftoah\u002Fhd\u002Furrg\u002Fhd_urrg.htm#:~:text=In%201922%2C%20C.,of%20gold%20and%20precious%20stones.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efrom surrounding graves\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. But as Ashraf noted, \"With only 30% of the site excavated, much more remains to be discovered.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven so, the ziggurat is important enough to have been used as a pawn in modern wartimes. During the Gulf War in 1991, Saddam Hussein \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.latimes.com\u002Farchives\u002Fla-xpm-1991-02-14-mn-1799-story.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eparked two of his MiG fighter jets alongside it\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in hopes that the historical site would keep the United States and other foreign nations from attacking his planes. Unfortunately, the ziggurat still suffered minor damage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2021, Iraq opened its doors to an array of Western countries, and tourism has been emerging slowly (though many governments still advise against travel here). Janet Newenham, an Irish travel journalist and owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjanetsjourneys.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJanet's Journeys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, visited Iraq shortly after the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgds.gov.iq\u002Firaq-lifts-requirement-to-obtain-pre-arrival-visas-for-citizens-of-30-countries\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Evisa-on-arrival programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E launched. Since then, she has led several group tours to the region. \"On our first trip in July 2021, we saw not one other tourist,\" she said. \"By the time my April 2022 trip came around, we would often meet small groups of adventurous tourists&hellip; we never saw more than four or five other tourists at a time though.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYet nearly every day, Ashraf braves the heat to help tourists understand the importance of the ziggurat. He said he taught himself English by \"studying the dictionary\" and when most of his foreign visitors were Japanese, he set to work learning snippets of Japanese as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I carefully climbed the grand staircase leading to the flat upper floor, I could still see bits of bitumen between the broken bricks. I also spotted a small, inscribed brick that recognises Saddam Hussein for his partial reconstruction of the monument in 1980. The upper terraces and the colourful temple have long been destroyed and lost to time. But across the nearly flat expanse of desert, I could see small mounds scattered throughout the area waiting to be excavated, no doubt hiding a world of treasures yet to be discovered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-23T10:22:04Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Iraq's answer to the pyramids","headlineShort":"Iraq's answer to the pyramids","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"30.9627594","longitude":"46.1009891","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Egypt may have the Pyramids of Giza, but Iraq has the Ziggurat of Ur – an incredibly well-preserved engineering achievement that towers over the ruins of an important ancient city.","summaryShort":"Egypt may have the Pyramids of Giza, but Iraq has the Ziggurat of Ur","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-22T22:23:43.535237Z","entity":"article","guid":"af1fbae4-806e-4959-8180-36cfdc3b991d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids","modifiedDateTime":"2022-12-16T10:42:22.621173Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442532},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith","_id":"64cc0c16a471ef0d5126e12e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsimon-urwin"],"bodyIntro":"Lalish is a tiny mountain village in Kurdistan with a population of just 25. It is to the Yazidis what Mecca is to Muslims.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocated 125km north-east of Erbil (the capital of Kurdistan, an autonomous region of northern Iraq), lies the hamlet-sized shrine complex of Lalish, the holiest site of Yazidism, an ancient religion with an estimated 700,000 followers worldwide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Lalish is as sacred to the Yazidis as Mecca is to Muslims or Jerusalem is to the followers of Islam, Christianity and Judaism,\" said Luqman Mahmood, the director of visitor relations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe 4,000-year-old site (which is also open to non-believers) consists of a number of shrines featuring distinctive fluted, conical spires, the most revered of which contains the tomb of Sheikh Adi ibn Musafir, considered the founder of the faith.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2z3vk"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Elderly Yazidi man and woman outside temple doorway","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe exact origins of Yazidism are a matter of dispute, but it is thought to date back more than 7,000 years and, over time, has come to incorporate elements of other faiths, including Zoroastrianism, Sufi mysticism, Christianity and Judaism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYazidism's principal beliefs are that there is one God (\"Kuda\" in Kurdish) who created humankind, while all other living beings were the work of seven angels led by the ruling Peacock Angel named Malak Taus.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Another important facet of the Yazidi faith is the belief in our oneness with the natural world, which has its roots in ancient nature worship,\" Mahmood told me. \"The black snake on the temple doorway (pictured above) symbolises our respect for Mother Nature; we'd never kill a snake, even if it was venomous.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe snake is particularly symbolic for Yazidis who believe that after Noah's Ark sprang a leak when it came to rest on the peak of Mount Ararat, a serpent plugged the hole with its body and saved the ship from sinking and all those on board from drowning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2z3mj"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Yazidi woman tying girêk (knots) in silk scarves","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELike Muslims travelling to Mecca, Yazidis are obliged to make a pilgrimage to Lalish at least once in their lives; those who live in Kurdistan or Iraq should visit at least once a year. Pilgrims and visitors must enter the complex in modest attire and walk barefoot out of respect for the sanctity of the site.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce inside, a popular Yazidi tradition is the tying of \u003Cem\u003Egir&ecirc;k\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (knots) in silk scarves hung around pillars and trees. The different colours represent the seven angels, while each knot represents a prayer. Yazidis believe that by untying the knot of a previous pilgrim, it will grant that person all their wishes. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2z3fd"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Yazidi 'servant of the house' burning white string at Lalish","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELalish is home to just 25 permanent residents. They include: a priest; various monks; a nun; and so-called \"servants of the house\", who are responsible for cleaning, maintenance, caring for the surrounding forests of fig, walnut and olive trees and collecting soil for pilgrims.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is said that every Yazidi should possess soil from Lalish and carry it with them like a talisman. Soil is also a key part of Yazidi funerary rites: it is mixed with holy spring water and small mud balls are placed in the mouth, ears and over the eyes after death. Coins are also placed in the coffin (an ancient Babylonian tradition) so that the deceased have money to spend in heaven.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPictured above: a \"servant of the house\" burns lengths of white string in exchange for donations to cure the sick, bless the dead and bring good luck to the living.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2z35q"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Clay pots for olive oil in a cave at Lalish","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOlives from Lalish's forests are pressed barefoot in wooden barrels and the oil is stored in clay pots in one of the complex's caves (pictured above.) The oil is a vital part of devotional practices. Yazidis pray facing the sun, at least twice a day, at both sunrise and sunset; as dusk approaches, 365 olive-oil lamps (one for each day of the year) are lit around the site to represent the light of the sun and the light of God. Light also plays an important role, even in death, since Yazidis are buried so as to face the rising sun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2z2zv"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Two Yazidi men wearing red and white chequered headdresses","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Yazidis' unconventional beliefs have led to a long history of persecution. \"It first began in the time of Osman I, founder of the Ottoman Empire,\" said Mahmood. \"We can count more than 70 different occasions of genocide since then, most recently by Saddam Hussein and members of Islamic State.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMahmood went on to tell me the \u003Cem\u003Ejamadani\u003C\u002Fem\u003E headdress Yazidi men wear were once pure white, but those worn at Lalish are now chequered with red to represent Yazidi bloodshed. \"Wearing traditional dress not only pays respect to those we have lost but is another way to keep our culture intact,\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g2z2gv"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Two groups of Yazidi people eating on Friday, Yazidi holy day","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFriday is the Yazidi holy day when members of the community converge on Lalish in vast numbers to pray and socialise. \"Food seals the bond of togetherness,\" said Edee Mahmood, Luqman's wife, who invited me to join the family for lunch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn an open-air kitchen, she and other women prepared mutton-based dishes and shared them with family, friends and pilgrims from the Yazidi diaspora (pictured above). Despite the warm hospitality, Edee told me that the Yazidis do not think of themselves as an inclusive community since they do not accept conversion, nor intermarriage with other faiths. \"If we keep Yazidism pure, we can maintain our way of life. That keeps our souls peaceful and means we are capable of enduring anything that comes our way. Without deep roots, the tree will soon fall. It is the same with Yazidism.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC Travel&rsquo;s \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fin-pictures\"\u003EIn Pictures\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a series that highlights stunning images from around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-08-04T10:19:47Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"In Pictures: The protectors of a 7,000-year-old faith","headlineShort":"The holiest place you've never heard of","image":["p0g2z3yq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Fluted conical spires of the shrines at Lalish, Kurdistan","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"36.7716","longitude":"43.3041","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Fluted conical spires of the shrines at Lalish, Kurdistan","promoImage":["p0g2z3yq"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Lalish is a tiny mountain village in Kurdistan with a population of just 25. It is to the Yazidis what Mecca is to Muslims.","summaryShort":"Photos of the protectors of a 7,000-year-old faith","tag":["tag\u002Fchurches-temples","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-08-03T20:20:21.104762Z","entity":"article","guid":"c593e1d5-2a80-485a-a68a-e7b39f645d44","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-03T20:20:21.104762Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230803-in-pictures-the-protectors-of-a-7000-year-old-faith","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Firaq","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmiddle-east"],"destinationStat":"middle-east_iraq_middle-east","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442531},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte","_id":"64a4615ba471ef0d62167c7f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The West has discovered turmeric only in the last decade or so and has lost no time in touting it as a “superfood”. But in India, turmeric has been a staple ingredient for centuries.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe first time I came across the beverage at a chic London coffeeshop a few years ago, I goggled in disbelief. Turmeric latte, described in rather grand terms as &ldquo;golden milk&rdquo; (almond or coconut, of course) with a hint of cinnamon and black pepper, sweetened with agave syrup and&hellip; At that point, I stopped reading. Partly because I caught sight of the rather startling price. And partly because I could almost hear the delighted chuckles of thousands of Indian grandmothers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI was briefly transported to my childhood, to memories of my mother trying to cajole and coerce me into drinking a glass of warm milk mixed with a pinch of turmeric powder and sweetened with refined white sugar &ndash; no nut milk or natural sweeteners there. Without much effort, I can still recall the vile residual mouthfeel &ndash; it is only as an adult that I learned to describe the taste of turmeric in words like &ldquo;pungent&rdquo; and &ldquo;peppery&rdquo; &ndash; of turmeric milk, or \u003Cem\u003Ehaldi doodh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E as Hindi speakers in India know it, and \u003Cem\u003Epalile manjal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E as my mother called it in our language Tamil. She was likely trying to soothe my sore throat or calm my feverish body with what many Indians still consider a liquid panacea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In India, turmeric is much more than an unassuming kitchen spice","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe West has discovered turmeric only in the last decade or so and has lost no time in touting it as a &ldquo;superfood&rdquo;, adding fresh turmeric root to tea and coffee, in tall cold shakes and tiny potent shots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESince that first encounter in London, I have found turmeric-laden beverages in (mostly hipster) cafes and coffee shops everywhere from San Francisco to Melbourne. But in India, turmeric has been a staple kitchen ingredient for a long time, used both in its original rhizome or root form, and, more commonly now, in powdered form. My own \u003Cem\u003Emasala dabba\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (box containing seasoning and tempering ingredients) has always had turmeric powder amid the mustard seeds, fresh cumin and chilli powder &ndash; as my mother&rsquo;s did and her mother before that.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETurmeric is used mainly as a colouring agent in traditional Indian cooking, especially in curries and gravies. Fresh and tender turmeric root is also made into \u003Cem\u003Ehaldi ka achar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (turmeric pickle), which is tempered with heated oil on top, and in a few communities, the leaves are used as steaming &ldquo;envelopes&rdquo; for foods. Food writer and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarryamhreshii.com\u002Fabout-marryamhreshii\u002Fbooks\u002Fthe-flavour-of-spice\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Flavour of Spice\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Marryam Reshi told me, &ldquo;I used to grow turmeric in my home in Goa so that I could make a local sweet called \u003Cem\u003Epatholyo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (also \u003Cem\u003Epatoleo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or \u003Cem\u003Epatholi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E). Coarsely ground rice is mixed with black jaggery and then steamed between two turmeric leaves; that is what gives it a unique floral flavour.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&bull; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200406-are-there-benefits-to-eating-turmeric-and-other-spices?\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAre there benefits to eating turmeric and other spices?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200224-indias-little-known-mizo-tribal-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndia&rsquo;s little-known Mizo tribal cuisine\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe berry that keeps Asia looking young\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECurious to know if turmeric has a place in contemporary Indian cooking, opposed to just traditional cooking, I spoke to Thomas Zacharias, executive chef at Mumbai&rsquo;s popular restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthebombaycanteen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Bombay Canteen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that prides itself on using only fresh and local ingredients. Zacharias described turmeric as a &ldquo;background ingredient with minimal flavour or taste&rdquo;. He added, &ldquo;I think most people in India use it out of habit, rather than with any thought about what value it adds to a dish.&rdquo; Zacharias himself likes to cook with fresh turmeric as a star ingredient whenever possible, like in his version of the Kerala fish curry known as \u003Cem\u003Emeen moilee\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETurmeric, which is from the same family as ginger, is cultivated in several states in India, with the country \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.financialexpress.com\u002Fmarket\u002Fcommodities\u002Fhigher-output-of-turmeric-could-lower-prices-in-current-season\u002F1492658\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccounting for more than 75% of the world&rsquo;s production\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to the Financial Express. India is also the largest exporter and consumer of turmeric. The warm and humid southern states of Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu are particularly known for mass cultivation and superior quality of the crop. Planting takes place between May and August, depending on the region, and the crop is harvested from January on for a couple of months.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt is not surprising then that in the Tamil harvest festival of Pongal in mid-January, fresh turmeric leaves and roots are tied to the mouth of the ceremonial pot in which milk is boiled, indicating abundance. For in India, turmeric is much more than an unassuming kitchen spice, assuming a significant place in culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAmong many Hindu communities, turmeric is used in festive occasions like weddings as a marker of fertility and prosperity. The pre-wedding \u003Cem\u003Ehaldi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E ceremony, for instance, involves family elders applying turmeric paste on the faces of the bride and the groom in a blessing-meets-beauty ritual. The \u003Cem\u003Etaali\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or \u003Cem\u003Emangalsutra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a thread tied around the bride&rsquo;s neck by the groom to formalise the marriage) is often a thick woven thread dipped in turmeric water; and even now, clothes worn on auspicious occasions (including weddings) have a touch of turmeric powder in some corner. Also, Indian women have always added a pinch of turmeric to their homemade face packs, believing that it leaves the skin clear and glowing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EReshi explained that while most common spices were brought into the country by explorers and invaders (chilli from South America and cumin from the Eastern Mediterranean region, for instance), turmeric is native to India. &ldquo;It is our spice, as no other spice is,&rdquo; she said, &ldquo;the way we have embraced it so heartily, and the faith we have in its healing properties can come from only millennia of familiarity.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen I checked into a reputed Ayurveda hospital in Kerala for a chronic pain condition 10 years ago, I was immediately put on a treatment of \u003Cem\u003Emanjakizhi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or turmeric poultice, along with the other remedies of massages and medicines. As the senior physician explained it then, Ayurveda states that turmeric helps in reducing inflammation and therefore pain\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFrom applying a turmeric paste over sprained ankles to sniffing a smoked rhizome clump to ward off a cold, many Indians use turmeric as a home remedy, and it has been used in the traditional medical system of Ayurveda for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Turmeric is the only medicinal ingredient that is used to treat all the doshas, to balance vata, pitta and kapha,&rdquo; said Dr Isaac Mathai, founder of Bangalore&rsquo;s Soukya Holistic Health Centre, referring to the three energies that Ayurveda believes every human body is composed of. As well as anti-inflammatory benefits, there is also a belief that turmeric contains antioxidant and antiseptic properties, though all these&nbsp;healing powers&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20200406-are-there-benefits-to-eating-turmeric-and-other-spices\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eare as yet unproven by scientific research\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETurmeric gets both its bright yellow colour and its purported health benefits from the chemical component called curcumin.&nbsp;One theory is that&nbsp;curcumin&rsquo;s efficacy is boosted by the way it is fried in oil in Indian cooking. &ldquo;Curcumin is a fat-soluble compound, combining turmeric with fats enhances the absorption of curcumin than eating it in a water-soluble form,&rdquo; said nutrition expert and author of&nbsp;\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.saffrontrail.com\u002Feveryday-healthy-vegetarian-cookbook-nandita-iyer\u002F\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.saffrontrail.com\u002Feveryday-healthy-vegetarian-cookbook-nandita-iyer\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Everyday Healthy Vegetarian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Nandita Iyer. Which if true, it would be music to my ears. It means I can say no to haldi doodh without any guilt, while binging on spicy and oily haldi ka achar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs for those who shell out big bucks for a turmeric latte at a hipster cafe, though, be warned that it may not address all ills. Perhaps they would do better to think of it as a warm and cosy pick-me-up, rather than a panacea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-eats\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAncient Eats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that puts trendy foods back into their &lsquo;authentic&rsquo; context, exploring the cultures and traditions where they were born.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-06-24T20:58:43Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"India’s original “turmeric latte”","headlineShort":"How the West got turmeric wrong","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The West has discovered turmeric only in the last decade or so and has lost no time in touting it as a “superfood”. But in India, turmeric has been a staple ingredient for centuries.","summaryShort":"“It is our spice, as no other spice is”","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:51:11.776212Z","entity":"article","guid":"89f68424-0b78-43b4-8e12-2775cc227a4b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:11:24.029593Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442532},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned","_id":"64a46161a471ef2ea1438b77","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"While part of daily tribal life for centuries, the drink – and its flowers – had been banned by the British during colonial rule and is only recently reclaiming the limelight.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI smelled the sweet flowers before I saw them. During an early morning drive inside the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wwfindia.org\u002Fabout_wwf\u002Fcritical_regions\u002Fnational_parks_tiger_reserves\u002Fsimilipal_tiger_reserve\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESimilipal National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the east Indian state of Odisha, I had stopped near a picturesque waterfall where thousands of pale-green blooms were falling from the surrounding trees and carpeting the forest floor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These are mahua trees,\" said Suresh Kisku, my guide from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftimesofindia.indiatimes.com\u002Findia\u002Fwho-are-santhals-the-community-which-droupadi-murmu-belongs-to\u002Farticleshow\u002F92391524.cms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESanthal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E tribal community. He pointed towards the cluster of short, stout trunks and dome-shaped canopies that edged a small clearing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe mahua tree, or \u003Cem\u003Emadhuca longifolia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, grows abundantly in the forested plains of western, central and eastern India, where tribes &ndash; such as the Santhal, Gond, Munda and Oraon &ndash; who have inhabited the area for the last 3,000 years, consider it the \"Tree of Life\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETraditionally, these tribes have used its flowers, fruits, branches and leaves for food, cattle fodder, fuel, art, medicine and even as currency to barter for grains. They've also revered it through vibrant folk festivals, songs and verses. Perhaps its most well-known use, though, is in the form of a sweetish liquor with strong floral notes simply called \"mahua\", which is brewed over a pot still in a meticulously detailed eight-day process.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This means the mahua spirit is pure","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELater that day, Kisku brought me to his house on the fringes of the forest, where his mother and younger sister, Geeta, crouched close to a sturdy metal pot containing fermented mahua juices over a woodfire. Two other pots were positioned over the larger pot to brew the spirit that would condense and travel through a tube to be stored in a container on the mud floor. After a while, Geeta dipped a ladle into the brew and threw the liquid into the fire, the flames shooting up in a white blaze. \"This means the mahua spirit is pure,\" said Kisku.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat evening I slowly sipped the clear, colourless liquid from a small cup made with leaves that Geeta had handed to me. The freshly distilled mahua liquor went down my throat with a delightfully fiery trail, leaving a smoky, floral aftertaste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Why haven't I tasted this before?\" I wondered.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom ancient times until the late 1800s, indigenous families like Kisku's were free to distil, consume and sell mahua liquor. However, the production of what was considered a \"country spirit\" by the Indian government suffered a heavy blow during the British Raj rule in India. Mahua was deemed a dangerous intoxicant that was a threat to public health and morality, so colonial lawmakers created legislation &ndash; such as the Bombay Abkari Act of 1878 and Mhowra Act of 1892 &ndash; that not only banned or restricted the distillation of the spirit, but also clamped down on the collection and storage of the mahua flowers by indigenous tribes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFewer mahua flowers led to clandestine brewing that was often infused with impurities being added as filler. The resulting decline in quality only furthered the British Raj's agenda at the time: to control the production of local spirits in general, as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Facademic.oup.com\u002Fbook\u002F39860\u002Fchapter-abstract\u002F340028782?redirectedFrom=fulltext\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erevenue generated from imported alcohol\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from places such as Britain and Germany helped fund military occupations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"While some colonial officials recognised the cultural and nutritional importance of indigenous drinks like mahua, the threat to revenue took precedence\", said Dr Erica Wald, a modern history professor at the University of London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, even after India gained independence in 1947, the old economic and social mores stayed intact. \"The state remained closely associated with the monopoly on sale and production of alcohol just like the erstwhile colonial rulers, and mahua remained under stringent laws and limitations,\" said Wald.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Alcohol was a frequent target for temperance advocates and early nationalists,\" Wald continued. \"Boycotts and pickets of alcohol stores, and the insistence of some nationalists that alcohol was 'foreign' to India, meant that even drinks like&nbsp;mahua, which were so important in the lives of many tribals, were lumped together as problematic.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThus, mahua remained classified as a low-quality, \"dangerous\" drink, and the tribal people were denied the right to produce and sell it beyond traditional village markets.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It tells you the nature of post-independence&nbsp;Indian&nbsp;elites who were highly disdainful of the lifestyles of the indigenous population,\" said Krishnendu Ray, professor of food studies at New York University. \"It ended&nbsp;up producing a lot of mediocre, homogenous stuff that shaped the Indian liquor industry.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAgainst the legacy of this socio-political canvas, it would take a few strong entrepreneurial voices interested in rebranding mahua as a quality craft spirit, while also trying to bring about changes in excise legislations, to begin to lift bans on the liquor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We introduced mahua in Goa, made under the IML (Indian-Made Liquor) category, a tag we got after much persuasion with the government,\" said Desmond Nazareth, who launched Mahua Spirit and Mahua Liqueur under the brand \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.whatsupgoa.com\u002Fplace\u002Fdesmondji\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDesmondJi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2018.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Goa-based craft distiller also sells mahua in Karnataka, the only other Indian state to recognise mahua as an IML opposed to a \"country spirit\". According to Indian law, country spirits cannot be sold across inter-state borders, so by branding it as IML, it can reach a larger consumer base when sold in other states.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the last couple of years, a change in attitude has slowly been occurring among local governments and agencies. For example, in 2021, the government of Madhya Pradesh \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fscroll.in\u002Flatest\u002F1011204\u002Falcohol-made-from-mahua-flower-will-be-sold-as-heritage-liquor-in-madhya-pradesh-says-cm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edeclared mahua as a&nbsp;heritage liquor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the government of Maharashtra state changed its archaic laws&nbsp;to legalise the collection and storage of the flowers by local tribal groups. For the first time, in that same year, a government organisation called the Agricultural and Processed Food Products Export Development Authority \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.indianewsnetwork.com\u002F20210812\u002Fin-a-first-dehydrated-mohua-flower-from-chhattisgarh-to-exported-to-france\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eshipped dehydrated mahua flowers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which were collected by the tribal population from the forests of Chhattisgarh, to France.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile some states are ending bans on mahua, lifting them at a pan-India level will make it a much more viable business venture for distillers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESusan Dias, director of Mumbai-based start-up \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.zaubacorp.com\u002Fcompany\u002FNATIVE-BREWS-PRIVATE-LIMITED\u002FU15122MH2015PTC269238\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENative Brews\u003C\u002Fa\u003E started brewing mahua with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vsisugar.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVasantdada Sugar Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E back in 2018. She said, \"We have our recipe in place, and need the regulations around production, distribution and marketing of mahua to ease up on a national level to commence with our first batch.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAdditionally, Dias believes that it's important to create a micro industry that supports indigenous mahua growers economically. According to Dias, \"A sustainable development model for the mahua industry would be a direct forest-to-bottle approach, where local tribal groups will have the rights to collection and storage, sell them directly to distillers and thereby monetise their flowers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENazareth, for instance, sources flowers from the central Indian forest belt in collaboration with tribal groups&nbsp;in Odisha and Madhya&nbsp;Pradesh and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cgmfpfed.org\u002Fnew\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChhattisgarh State Minor Forest Produce Co-operative Federation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which promotes trade and development of forest produce and implements socio-economic welfare schemes for indigenous tribes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd when it comes to the flowers, quality matters. Nazareth is also aiming to restore the reputation of mahua as well as modernise its production to make it more appealing on a wider scale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We select only food-grade flowers that are hygienically collected on nets and then sundried on mats or in solar driers,\" he said. He also elaborated on how his company's mahua uses standardised yeast for fermentation and multiple distillations (opposed to traditional single distillation) to maintain consistency in the taste, potency and clarity of the batches that are packaged and consumed at the international standard of 40% alcohol\u002Fvolume.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShatbhi Basu, one of India's best-known mixologists, believes that elevating the traditional methods is important for mahua's appeal as a global drink.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"With defined parameters of production in place, mahua can truly be a globally acclaimed drink like tequila, sake and pisco, all of which started their journey as small, local community-driven spirits,\" she said, adding that the clean and smooth flavour profile of quality mahua lends itself well to cocktails and has a very low concentration of methanol, a congener responsible for hangovers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENazareth believes that mahua is the perfect contender to emerge as India's national heritage spirit and that it could become popular on the global stage as well. \"Thirteen of the 28 Indian states produce mahua, and it is the only distilled spirit in the world made from a naturally sweet flower, which creates its unique flavour profile,\" he said.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a project they refer to as \"Mahua to the World\", Nazareth and Braganza are planning to bring the spirit to the UK in the summer of 2023, and later to North America and other global markets.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBranded for years as an illicit indigenous tipple, it has been a long road for mahua to arrive at the doorstep of the premium mainstream market in India and beyond. I asked Kisku how he feels about this mahua makeover.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I don't really understand much of this,\" he told me over the phone. \"But I'll share the news with my folks that our sacred tree and its flowers are finally getting some recognition. And we will celebrate over an extra glass of mahua.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPeach and Plum Mahuatini recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy DesmondJi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E1 ripe plum, cut into small pieces\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E50ml of Mahua Spirit\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E15ml of peach puree\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EIce cubes\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E1.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In a cocktail shaker, muddle the plum with Mahua Spirit and peach puree.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E2.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Add ice cubes, shake and then pour over ice in a glass\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENote: For a lovely pink colour, cook 0.5kg of plums (skins on) with 125g sugar and the juice of one orange, until the plums break down. Substitute 1 bar spoon of this compote for the ripe plum.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-11-22T10:57:51Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Mahua: The Indian liquor the British banned","headlineShort":"The Indian liquor the British banned","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"21.780857","longitude":"86.2622998","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While part of daily tribal life for centuries, the drink – and its flowers – had been banned by the British during colonial rule and is only recently reclaiming the limelight.","summaryShort":"Today, it is only recently reclaiming the limelight","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-11-21T21:03:34.82445Z","entity":"article","guid":"ef1dddd5-bee4-4052-a769-8c3c2ba27051","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned","modifiedDateTime":"2022-12-01T13:55:00.289289Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442532},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth","_id":"64a46160a471ef0d62167c84","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Ghee had fallen out of favour as saturated fats were considered unhealthy. But now, Indians are finding their way back to this ingredient that's so integral to their cuisine.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIndian food author \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.finelychopped.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKalyan Karmakar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is making up for lost time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, he enjoys the subtle touch of ghee in many of his favourite Bengali dishes, adding it to steamed rice with fried \u003Cem\u003Ekaatla \u003C\u002Fem\u003Efish (Indian carp) for \u003Cem\u003Eghee b\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ehaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, and swirling it into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=Am24nX2Bayk\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ephyaana bhaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a one-pot rice dish cooked with its own starch, mashed potato and a boiled egg. Even his \u003Cem\u003Ekhichuri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (also spelled \u003Cem\u003Ekhichdi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E), a comforting rice and lentil porridge Karmakar associates with rainy days, is incomplete without the ubiquitous fat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut it wasn't always like this.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I belong to the set of people who grew up under the impression that ghee is unhealthy and [I am] now making up for it,\" he said, \"It's [essentially] the purest food on Earth.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor millennia, ghee has been a venerated staple of the subcontinental diet, but it fell out of favour a few decades ago when saturated fats were largely considered to be unhealthy. But more recently, as the thinking around saturated fats is shifting globally, Indians are finding their own way back to this ingredient that's so integral to their cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Karmakar, a renewed interest in ghee is emblematic of a return-to-basics movement in India, which was years in the making but fast-tracked during the pandemic, when \"people started being more mindful about their food\", he explained. This movement is also part of an overall trend towards \"slow food\". In keeping with the movement's philosophy, ghee can be produced locally (even at home) and has inextricable cultural ties.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cimg src=\"http:\u002F\u002Fichef.bbci.co.uk\u002Fimages\u002Fic\u002Fraw\u002Fp0cnztsn.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"some text\" width=\"250\" height=\"140.75\" \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMany Indians make ghee at home by skimming off the cream (called \u003Cem\u003Emalai \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ein Hindi) that forms when unpasteurised raw milk is boiled. Then, they churn it, traditionally by hand using a wooden stick, but now, more frequently, in a blender &ndash; usually adding a spoon of yogurt or curd and ice cubes &ndash; to make butter. The butter floats on top of the buttermilk (which is reserved to prepare other dishes, such as lentils) and is then boiled to make ghee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"The DIY Method","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaking ghee is a labour of love for Nitin Ahir, co-founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgirorganic.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGirOrganic\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a dairy farm and ghee producer in the city of Surat in the west Indian state of Gujarat. Instead of using imported cow breeds like Jersey, Holstein and Friesian like mass producers do, he gets his milk from his herd of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgirorganic.com\u002Fblogs\u002Fnews\u002Fwhat-is-gir-cow\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGir cows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an Indian-born breed native to the Gir hills and forests of the Kathiawar Peninsula. He allows his cows to graze openly on grass and makes sure that calves have their rightful first share of their mothers' milk before milking.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fskyroots.in\u002Fa2-ghee-or-a1-ghee-know-the-difference\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA2 ghee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a type of ghee that is considered nutritionally superior, is made via the \"bilona method\" in which a small motor-operated machine moves clockwise and anti-clockwise mimicking the traditional motion of a handheld wooden churner, a process that he admits \"isn't the most cost-effective and resists large scale production\". Nevertheless, he estimates he's witnessed a 25-30% increase in demand for his ghee since the pandemic began.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt a basic level, ghee is a type of clarified butter believed to have originated in India as a way to preserve butter from going rancid in the hot climate. Churned cream or butter is simmered slowly until the moisture evaporates and any browned milk solids are removed, resulting in a sumptuously rich, fragrant and nutty fat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor many Indians, however, ghee is historically something more sacred than just a cooking fat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Ghee is the final and purest form of milk &ndash; the last extract,\" said author and food historian Pritha Sen. \"It was considered the purest offering to the gods and the medium by which prayers were carried to the heavens.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIts history dates back millennia. \"Paeans to ghee are found in the Rig Veda, a collection of ancient hymns and prayers dating back nearly 4,000 years,\" explained Colleen Taylor Sen, a Chicago-based food historian and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpress.uchicago.edu\u002Fucp\u002Fbooks\u002Fbook\u002Fdistributed\u002FF\u002Fbo19145721.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFeasts and Fasts: A History of Food in India\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"According to legend, Prajapati, lord of the creatures, rubbed his hands together to create the first ghee, which he poured into flames to create his children.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGhee is also deeply woven into the fabric of Indian culture. Traditionally, Hindus pour ghee into fire at marriages, funerals and other ceremonies as it is believed to be auspicious. In \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Fpii\u002FS0378874116307826\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAyurveda\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a traditional Indian system of medicine, Ghee is considered a virtual panacea. And its wholesome qualities have been embraced by generations of mothers and grandmothers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor US-based food author \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fharpercollins.co.in\u002Fauthor-details\u002Fsandeepa-datta-mukherjee\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESandeepa Mukherjee Datta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who runs \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bongcookbook.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBong Mom's Cookbook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, choosing ghee when it was time to introduce fat and oil to her babies was a no-brainer. \"[It's] good fat, to give the young bones and brain nourishment and vitamins,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer mother took things a step further, insisting on nothing but homemade ghee. \"She would make small jars of ghee and send it for her granddaughters with anyone who was flying across the Atlantic,\" said Datta. \"That ghee was pure and tasted like a gift from heaven.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"That ghee was pure and tasted like a gift from heaven.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Ghee is not only a medium to cook and fry food,\" said Datta. \"Before the advent of fancy cereals and oats, every Bengali child was unified by the same breakfast dish on school mornings.\" The dish, \u003Cem\u003Eghee-alu sheddho-bhaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (ghee-mashed potatoes-rice), she explained, is almost Bengal's unofficial state food. \"In those days, before carbs and fat got a bad rap, mothers felt this dish was the right balance to fortify their children throughout the day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat \"bad rap\" &ndash; due to claims that saturated fats are bad for heart health &ndash; affected ghee, which has up to 50-70% saturated fat. For a few decades, consuming ghee fell out of favour in India. In the 1980s, vegetable oils were heavily promoted by the industry, and&nbsp;as vegetable oil consumption went up, ghee consumption went down. \"The advertising would really shake you up,\" he said. \"The urban and Western exposed population began looking down on traditional oils and using the vegetable oil.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith time, the neutral flavour of refined vegetable oil became the norm &ndash; and ghee the exception.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The whole fat conversation from the 1980s onwards was out to make saturated fats [the villain] &ndash; fortunately, we understand the fat and cholesterol space better now,\" said celebrity chef \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Franveerbrar.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERanveer Brar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an author, restaurateur and MasterChef India judge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile experts still advise against a high-fat diet, some have begun to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftime.com\u002F5571810\u002Fis-ghee-healthy\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emellow their stance on the overall risks of saturated fat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And thanks partly to the high fat \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Ffood\u002Farticles\u002Fketo_diet_weight_loss\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eketo diet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E craze, ghee's popularity has soared in countries like the US.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the West's newfound interest in ghee may be somewhat misguided. For one thing, much is made of ghee's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thespruceeats.com\u002Fsmoking-points-of-fats-and-oils-1328753\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehigh smoke point\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which passionate advocates extoll for its ability to withstand higher temperatures than butter. But according to Brar, the objective of cooking with ghee \"isn't to get to smoking temperature in the first place; [it's] just to a point of extracting the flavours.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFurthermore, in India, ghee is not consumed in copious amounts for a quick-fix or to help stick to lower carb \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcgoodfood.com\u002Fhowto\u002Fguide\u002Fwhat-is-the-macro-diet\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emacros\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (due to the fat's satiating effect). Instead, the traditional approach to ghee is one of moderation, harmony and grace. Here, the pale yellow, crumbly fat isn't just \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bulletproof.com\u002Frecipes\u002Fbulletproof-diet-recipes\u002Fbulletproof-coffee-recipe\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eblitzed into coffee\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; it stars as a final touch to dishes, moving slowly as small dollops of it are transformed by heat into a molten gold liquid, settling into every mouthful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo how is ghee best used? Brar recommends using ghee with lentils or in dishes with pronounced lactic notes, such as yoghourt-based curries, like \u003Cem\u003Ekorma\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. \"Start with a light smear on your soups in winter, on your pita or flatbread. [Then] you can use it for marinating and tempering. [Eventually], it becomes an essential part of the [overall] bouquet that you inhale,\" Brar said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChef Manish Mehrotra, culinary director of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Findianaccent.com\u002Fnewdelhi\u002Findex.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndian Accent\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurants and part of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oldworldhospitality.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOld World Hospitality\u003C\u002Fa\u003E group for the past 22 years, said it was important to him when setting a menu to include recipes paying homage to the unique flavour of ghee. He is confident the world is coming to understand his country's cuisine and recognise its \"authentic\" tastes. One of Mehrotra's signature dishes is ghee roast mutton \u003Cem\u003Eboti \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(savoury chunks of flavourful meat), \"The ghee imparts this smoky-sweet flavour. It's one of our best-sellers,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChef Nikita Rao of Mumbai's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ekaamumbai.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEkaa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant believes in celebrating the distinctive nature of each ingredient. \"It's ingredient-driven fine-dining,\" she said. With such concerted focus on the food itself, she explained how the ethos behind using ghee in a recipe is allowing it to assimilate and let other components sing. Her Morning Glory salad with tamarind dressing, for instance, is topped with homemade creme fraiche and &nbsp;a tempering of ghee, curry leaves and fiery \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tarladalal.com\u002Fglossary-resham-patti-chillies-resham-patti-mirch-336i\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eresham patti chillies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"The tempering is less than 10% of the entire salad, but people absolutely love it, and buffalo ghee complements the entire dish.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUltimately, understanding ghee means understanding a collective Indian identity, an approach to food that is cohesive, holistic and balanced &ndash; and one where ghee isn't a piecemeal part or overpowering presence. And when ghee is understood for its true essence, good things are sure to follow.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBrar always has ghee within arm's distance of his stovetop. As he said, \"I've grown up with my grandma's \u003Cem\u003Echunni\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [scarf or stole] and the whole house smelling of ghee. When I reach for ghee, I'm searching for more than just a fat. I'm reaching out for my childhood.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":true,"displayDate":"2022-07-27T10:33:36Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The purest food on Earth?","headlineShort":"Ghee: 'The purest food on Earth'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"24.3613106","longitude":"85.6069005","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Ghee had fallen out of favour as saturated fats were considered unhealthy. But now, Indians are finding their way back to this ingredient that's so integral to their cuisine.","summaryShort":"This \"good fat\" has been a venerated staple of the subcontinental diet","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-07-26T22:35:57.333255Z","entity":"article","guid":"5905d6c9-f5aa-41de-a0c7-2d987f301bce","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-03T13:59:30.780762Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442533},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice","_id":"64cac0c1a471ef30a87eef97","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["future\u002Fauthor\u002Fshoma-abhyankar"],"bodyIntro":"Traditionally thought to have cooling properties, India's kokum extract makes for an electrolyte-balancing drink that offers a natural, refreshing way to fend off the summer heat.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EScrawled with chalk on a small blackboard in Maharashtra, India, there was a list of items available at the small restaurant where I took shelter to escape from the sweltering midday heat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Kokum Sherbet Rs 25 [&pound;0.24]\", the blackboard read.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe deep red \u003Cem\u003Esherbet\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a traditional Indian beverage prepared with fruits and spices) almost instantly relieved me of my thirst and exhaustion. My drink was made from the fruit of \u003Cem\u003Ekokum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a tropical evergreen tree from the mangosteen family that's indigenous to Konkan, a western coastal belt of land that extends from Maharashtra to the states of Goa and Karnataka.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn important ingredient in the local cuisine for its acidic properties, kokum is to Konkan as sweet-sour tamarind is to the southern states of India. But in addition to offering a great tangy flavour, it also has a rehydrating effect in drinks like sherbet (\u003Ca href=\"#Kokum sherbet recipe\"\u003Esee recipe below\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), which have been used traditionally to help keep heatstroke at bay. Turning to such traditional knowledge now might just provide a healthy &ndash; and delicious &ndash; option when trying to counter the woes of the current \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Ftopics\u002Fczp2j9gdep0t\"\u003Espate of heatwaves\u003C\u002Fa\u003E around the globe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"For centuries, the tribal communities have used \u003Cem\u003Eagal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or the extract from the [kokum] fruit, as a souring and colouring agent in curries, gravies and fish preparations,\" said food historian Kurush Dalal. \"They have also utilised it for medicinal properties.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Ayurveda &ndash; India's ancient natural system of medicine, deriving from the Sanskrit words \u003Cem\u003Eayur\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (life) and \u003Cem\u003Eveda\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (knowledge) &ndash; the kokum fruit has many medicinal uses and health benefits. A storehouse of antioxidants, B-complex vitamins, magnesium and potassium, kokum can be used as a digestive tonic and as a treatment for flatulence, diarrhoea, sores and skin rashes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g47hc5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It is traditionally also considered to be a natural coolant and helpful in beating the summer heat,\" said Dalal.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Kokum, rich in essential vitamins and minerals, makes for an excellent electrolyte-balancing drink on mixing with some sugar and water,\" explained Dr Trupti Bhole, professor at Bhartiya Vidyapeeth Ayurveda College in Pune. \"It prevents dehydration and dryness due to summer heat.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKonkanis consume it in extract form in refreshing and energising drinks like the kokum sherbet I had (which was also mixed with roasted cumin powder and sugar), as well as \u003Cem\u003Esolkadhi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\u003Ca href=\"#Solkadi recipe\"\u003Esee recipe below\u003C\u002Fa\u003E), a rich, pink-coloured beverage that's made by blending kokum extract and coconut milk.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe rain-fed kokum tree flowers in March and its red-purple fruits are harvested around April and May. After picking, the fibrous rind of the ripe, lemon-sized berry is separated from its large seeds and is sundried for six to eight days, causing the rind to turn almost black. The dried rind is then boiled in water and reduced to make a concentrate or turned into a syrup with the addition of sugar for use in drinks or dishes. The oil from seeds, known as kokum butter, makes for a natural emollient that is utilised as a base for cosmetic products.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g47hd0"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough kokum is used extensively by locals, it's been cultivated only on a small scale, mostly on plantations also growing mango and coconut. A \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.academia.edu\u002F17298198\u002FPresent_status_and_future_thrust_areas_in_production_technology_of_Kokum,%20https:\u002Fwww.ofai.org\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2011\u002F04\u002FResource-book-on-Kokum.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esurvey\u003C\u002Fa\u003E conducted in 2010 showed only 1,000 hectares of kokum planted in Konkan. However, with an increasing demand for kokum butter, the local forest department is gradually planting more trees along the roadsides and in forested areas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd now, the fruit is finding its way into the culinary spotlight as well, from small, local eateries to more high-end restaurants across India.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Not much attention was given for its cultivation initially; however, it is getting its due gradually,\" said Dalal. \"What grew wild and was used as an ingredient in home cooking mostly is now becoming gourmet. Chefs are experimenting with the sourness and rich colour of kokum.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goaportuguesa.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGoa Portuguesa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an award-winning resto-bar started in 1988 in Mumbai with a newer location in Dubai, offers Goan and Portuguese delicacies utilising kokum. \"Kokum is used very often in Goan food. Our restaurant has kokum in pickles, jams and chutneys besides the traditional dishes like \u003Cem\u003Esolkadi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [a cold coconut milk and kokum soup], seafood \u003Cem\u003Esukke\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [clams and prawns cooked in a thick coconut and kokum gravy], mushroom \u003Cem\u003Exacuti\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [mushrooms cooked in a kokum-coconut gravy] or shark \u003Cem\u003Eambottik\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [shark cooked in tangy coconut-kokum gravy],\" said chef-owner Deepa Awchat. \"The kokum gives beautiful colour to the thick coconut gravy and its sourness subdues the typical seafood odour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g47h20"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EChef Nishant Choubey of Satvik Restaurant in New Delhi first came across this unique condiment during his training stint in Maharashtra. \"I like to use ingredients which are less popular outside the local region. Kokum is one such ingredient,\" he said. \"One can do so much from kokum, from starters to soups, desserts and salads. This is an amazing, versatile fruit with a very different sourness than tamarind. I have tried it for different contemporary [foods] like filo-pastry stuffing, jelly, popsicle, granita and mousse-like \u003Cem\u003Ebhapa doi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a steamed, sweetened yogurt) dessert.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome cooks are also popularising kokum outside of India. US-based Nandita Godbole, the author of the recently released \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcurrycravings.wixsite.com\u002Fturmericpress\"\u003EMasaleydaar: Classic Indian Spice Blends\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and six other books on the culinary secrets of Indian cuisine, often uses the ingredient in her cooking and stocks up on kokum syrup from Indian stores in her city of Atlanta. Her version of a kokum cocktail is a burst of flavours with peaches, coconut mezcal and lemon coming together.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I feel that kokum shines best in the drinks because of its unusual sweet-sour flavour, which is very inviting,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith its unique flavour &ndash; and naturally cooling and hydrating properties &ndash; kokum might have caught the fancy of chefs and cookbook authors at just the right time. As temperatures across the planet continue to rise, the traditional Indian fruit extract might be the next best thing for providing a little respite from the scorching heat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g47h6q"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Kokum sherbet recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKokum sherbet recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy&nbsp;Chef Deepa Awchat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMakes 16-18 servings\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E200g kokum rinds \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E300g\u002F1&frac12; cups sugar&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp cumin powder&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp cardamom powder\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Esalt to taste\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ESoak the&nbsp;kokum&nbsp;in 4 cups of water for 30 minutes, until soft. Strain and reserve the water. Mash or cut the&nbsp;kokum&nbsp;into tiny pieces.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPlace the kokum pieces, sugar, cumin, cardamom and salt in a saucepan and cook over low heat for about 5 minutes, until the sugar melts.&nbsp;Add the reserved&nbsp;kokum&nbsp;water, bring to a boil and cook for another 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Once cooled, strain the mixture and store in a refrigerator.&nbsp;Discard the kokum pieces.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EFor one glass of kokum sherbet, spoon 3 tbsp of kokum concentrate into a glass, top with 220ml to 240ml&nbsp;cold water and mix with a spoon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe kokum concentrate can be kept in the refrigerator for three to four days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENote\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPrepared kokum concentrate\u002Fsyrup (available online and at Indian markets) can be diluted to make kokum sherbet instead of making a concentrate with the rinds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g47hf5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Solkadi recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESolkadi recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Deepa Awchat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EServes 4\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E20 kokum rinds\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 cups coconut milk\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E12 garlic cloves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 green chillies\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E12 black peppercorns\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Epinch of salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ESoak the dry kokum rinds in 1 cup of water for 20 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a blender, blend the coconut milk, garlic, chillies, peppercorns and pinch of salt until smooth. Strain and set aside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ESqueeze the soaked kokum into a bowl to extract the juice; discard the rinds. Stir in the coconut milk mixture and let cool in the refrigerator. To serve, sprinkle with chopped coriander.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENote\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPrepared kokum concentrate\u002Fsyrup (available online and at Indian markets) can be diluted to make kokum sherbet instead of making a concentrate with the rinds.&nbsp;\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-08-03T10:54:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Kokum: India's naturally cooling fruit juice","headlineShort":"The drink thought to fight heatstroke","image":["p0g47h3k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"17.0735899","longitude":"72.5578221","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0g47h3k"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200623-indias-original-turmeric-latte","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221121-mahua-the-indian-liquor-the-british-banned","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220726-the-purest-food-on-earth"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Traditionally thought to have cooling properties, India's kokum extract makes for an electrolyte-balancing drink that offers a natural, refreshing way to fend off the summer heat.","summaryShort":"It's traditionally considered a natural coolant for beating the summer heat","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fnews-features"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-08-02T20:46:39.830413Z","entity":"article","guid":"50b4b6ea-c850-46a6-87b5-0b31272ebf92","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-04T13:53:32.295332Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230802-kokum-indias-naturally-cooling-fruit-juice","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Findia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_india_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442532},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport","_id":"64a4615fa471ef2ecd74c23a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Every other January, visitors flock to the quirky Republic of Whangamōmona to celebrate a place that \"refused to be swallowed up\".","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESometimes geographical features are named aptly, and New Zealand's Forgotten World Highway is definitely one of those.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDriving from the town of Taumarunui to Whangamōmona in Taranaki in the western part of New Zealand's North Island, makes you feel like you're winding through a part of the world that time forgot. It's a place where moas (now-extinct 8ft flightless birds) crashed clumsily through the forest and thick green vines and ferns twisted their way around ancient kauri and totara trees, the lush darkness punctuated only by magical shafts of green light stabbing through the forest canopy. The 87km road is twisted and unforgiving, but the pristine bush and scenic saddles make it worth it, as you drive towards the Republic of Whangamōmona, or \"the Republic\", as locals sometimes like to call it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis tiny, remote town is well known in New Zealand as the place that refused to be swallowed up by new zoning regulations in the late '80s and consequently declared itself independent. It even has its own \"passport\". In fact, if you happen to turn up on Republic Day, held biennially in January, you can't actually enter the town without a one. It's obviously all a bit tongue and cheek, but it does stem back to a time when it was somewhat less of a joke &ndash; to 1989, when alterations were proposed to regional borders that would move Whangamōmona from Taranaki Province to Manawatu\u002FWanganui.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGaylene Coplestone remembers it well. \"David Walter was the mayor of Stratford District Council [the nearest big town] at the time. He was a good friend of ours and obviously very involved in local politics. He wasn't too pleased when they announced the borders were going to move.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe story goes that Walter was at the pub with some locals who were discussing how they shouldn't just take these changes lying down, and he said, \"well you're all pretty revolting, why don't you revolt?\" It was a light-hearted suggestion, but it sowed the seed for a novel way to protest. \"No one had any clue back then how much it would put Wanga on the map,\" said Coplestone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe idea quickly gained momentum, and on 2 November 1989, The Taranaki Daily News reported, \"It [Whangamōmona] declared itself independent in protest at being taken from Taranaki to form part of the new Manawatu\u002FWanganui region.\" There was a gathering of more than 400 people (a large crowd for a small, remote village) all &ndash; peacefully &ndash; showing their dissatisfaction with the government's decision to change boundaries and leaving residents dealing with a regional council they feared would not support their tiny rural town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"No one had any clue back then how much it would put Wanga on the map","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd so, it began. From that gathering of 400 people, Republic Day continues to be commemorated until now, bringing in up to 5,000 people at its biggest turnout. Visitors travel from all over New Zealand to attend the quirky celebrations. Vicki Pratt knows all about it, being one of the owners of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.whangamomonahotel.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhangamōmona Hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is the centre of all township activity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"On any normal day there's only 120 people in the whole region; in fact, only 10 who live in the town &ndash; and most of those are my family,\" she laughed. \"But on Republic Day we regularly have up to 2,500 people.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe event is small-town New Zealand fun at its best: sheep racing down the main street; market stalls selling arts and crafts; dog trial demos; wood chopping; gumboot throwing and eel catching. The small fee &ndash; around NZ$5 &ndash; that you pay for your passport goes directly to the upkeep of the local community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo add to the festivities, a \"president\" is elected every Republic Day. Currently occupying the seat of power is John Herlihy, who says that he \"was kind of bulldozed into it by neighbours and grandkids in 2017\". He added: \"It all seemed like a bit of a laugh but when it came to the day, I was nervous driving down the road in front of thousands of people.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHerlihy remains the only living current or ex-president (unless you count Pratt, who stepped in as an interim when a president died in office). Ian Kjestrup (the first elected president) and Murt Kennard (who presided from 2005-2015) have both passed away, not to mention Billy the Gumboot goat (there were rumours of poisoning) and Tai the poodle who died of old age (despite speculation of an assassination attempt by another dog). No, you don't have to be human to be president of Whangamōmona; Sherman the cockatoo, Eunice the sheep and other animals have also run for election.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's obvious people in these parts don't take themselves too seriously. \"It's all been a bit of fun,\" said Herlihy, \"but realistically the tourism it brings does help our remote community. We make NZ$15,000 from passport sales on Republic Day and another NZ$15,000 through the year with visitors wanting to get their passports stamped.\" This supports the town and the wider farming community significantly, with school needs, the upkeep of the hall and the church, and sending kids off on excursions like Spirit of Adventure (a well-known New Zealand youth development course that takes place at sea).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike most residents, Herlihy loves living in \"Wanga\" even though it's so far from many modern conveniences. \"It's old-fashioned New Zealand at its best,\" he said. \"A neighbour broke his arm recently, and the next thing you know there are 10 people ringing up to see what he needed a hand with, docking or shearing or whatever.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPratt agreed. \"When you live somewhere like this you have to help each other. It's not out of the ordinary to drive half an hour to take petrol to someone who has run out on the Forgotten World Highway. It's so remote, and because of that you need to care for others &ndash; as well as be resourceful and resilient. There's no doctor, dentist, rubbish collections; we're an hour from the nearest town. We are strong Taranaki people and it's not really surprising we became a republic; we were already kind of independent.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is a sentiment echoed by the current mayor of Stratford. \"The declaration of independence was initially a protest and a bit of a middle finger to authorities,\" said Neil Volzke. \"But it has grown way beyond that now. It really shows the true Kiwi spirit of innovation and independent thinking still exists, and that small places like Whangamōmona have a really strong sense of community. I think mocking the authorities comes as a bonus &ndash; you've got to love it!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We are strong Taranaki people and it's not really surprising we became a republic; we were already kind of independent","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis spirit can't be denied. New Zealanders have a history of paving their own way, even when it goes against the general flow &ndash; like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nzstory.govt.nz\u002Fstories\u002Femirates-team-new-zealand-ingenuity-as-easy-as-riding-a-bike\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe alternative style of boat building\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that finally lead them to victory in the 1995 America's Cup or the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnzhistory.govt.nz\u002Fpolitics\u002Fnuclear-free-new-zealand\u002Fnuclear-free-zone\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eanti-nuclear stance of the 1980s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that saw international nuclear-armed ships banned from their shores. This little town lost in some of the North Island's most primeval landscapes is the living embodiment of \"sticking it to the man\" when it's necessary.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd while it wasn't the original intent, it hasn't harmed that a bit of fame and some tourist dollars have come as part of the independence package.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-27T10:23:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"New Zealand's town that needs a passport","headlineShort":"New Zealand's self-declared 'republic'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"174.735623","longitude":"-39.144819.","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Every other January, visitors flock to the quirky Republic of Whangamōmona to celebrate a place that \"refused to be swallowed up\".","summaryShort":"The tiny town is well known as \"the place that refused to be swallowed up\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-26T22:24:39.476812Z","entity":"article","guid":"f514e92c-3e8e-49ea-bad9-1d7f9c49e9b9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-27T14:53:48.469541Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442533},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished","_id":"64a46161a471ef2ed22c8e81","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Mainly found on New Zealand's North Island, this large clam treasured by Māori coastal communities nearly became extinct due to exploitation. But now, it might be on the way back.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs food obsessions go, how about the American who \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnzhistory.govt.nz\u002Fculture\u002Fno-pavlova-please\u002Fseafood-consumption\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eallegedly tried to buy New Zealand\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in order to gain exclusive rights to a special soup? To be fair, this soup was made from a unique shellfish called toheroa, which had also dazzled royalty and even inspired a jaunty 1980s children's song called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=j0KcPefWqx0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EToheroa Twist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Everyone in the 1950s lived on toheroa,\" recalled \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dargavillemuseum.co.nz\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDargaville Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E committee member Ron Halliday in a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=G8O-cRPeKCE\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2019 YouTube documentary\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"They were lovely, sweet food &ndash; and it gives you a lot of energy.\" He spoke of manual workers taking toheroa soup in a thermos to their jobs. \"You could work all day on that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToheroa are a clam that grow as large as a human hand and burrow in intertidal sands on just a handful of epic surf-swept beaches &ndash; mainly on the west coast of New Zealand's North Island, but also in isolated colonies at places like Oreti, a beach at the nation's southern tip.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESucculent and sustaining, toheroa were a legendary delicacy for Māori coastal communities for centuries. \"The toheroa was considered a \u003Cem\u003Etaonga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (treasure),\" said Victoria University (Wellington) researcher Dr Ocean Mercier when she fronted a Project Mātauranga episode, hosted on the New Zealand educational site, the&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencelearn.org.nz\u002Fresources\u002F1048-reviving-toheroa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScience Learning Hub\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"[The taste of] raw toheroa is like a really creamy sweetcorn chowder,\" said University of Waikato marine ecologist Phil Ross, when I asked if he had combined his years of scientific study of toheroa numbers and how to bring them back with actually eating them when opportunity arose. Others talk of a gamey taste to a meat that combines pale green body flesh with a long, creamy-white muscly \"tongue\" the animal uses to burrow &ndash; and which inspired its name (toheroa means \"long tongue\" in Māori).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs well as eating them raw on the beach, Māori also traditionally cooked toheroa in a \u003Cem\u003Ehāngī\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (an underground oven) or preserved them on strings of flax to dry in the sun. Dried toheroa were used for trade and as prestige food to serve guests visiting a Māori \u003Cem\u003Emarae\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (community meeting house).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the passion for toheroa spread into New Zealand's \u003Cem\u003Epakeha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (white settler) community, other ways to eat them became popular, with devotees arguing over whether they were best minced up into fritters for frying &ndash; with additions like cinnamon or parsley &ndash; or turned into a soup celebrating what legendary 1960s TV chef &nbsp;Graham Kerr called \"the rarest food item in the world\" in a recipe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMāori Robyn Boulter shared her toheroa memories in an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=dasUPzzvrpc\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eevocative 2015 \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=dasUPzzvrpc\"\u003Efilm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"My first recollection was going down the beach and seeing all these thousands of holes! We used to go down on our horses, jump off, dig them up and eat them just like that. Raw is beautiful.\" She was happy to cook toheroa fritters too. \"I have only one recipe. Just toheroa, onion, egg, flour &ndash; that's it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERoss reveals the impact of his own debut tasting. \"The first one I ate was when I went to the beach with a Māori expert who was showing me how to find them. He cracked one open then and there, and we ate it raw. I was a bit nervous but couldn't appear squeamish!\" he said. \"But it was so delicious. And that was first time I really understood why these were so special and so popular.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough Māori tribes were known to battle each other for access to particularly abundant toheroa beds &ndash; the term for sections of beach where large numbers of toheroa gather together in the sand &ndash; the key event in toheroa's culinary history came when the Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII) had his first taste of luscious green toheroa broth on a 1921 visit to New Zealand. So smitten was he by its distinctive taste that he shattered royal protocol to ask, Oliver Twist-style, if he could have some more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis hearty expression of royal approval sparked media coverage across the British Empire, and the dish \"fit for a king\" quickly became a key fixture on New Zealand menus, before spreading across Britain's globe-spanning dominions. Toheroa soup &ndash; exported in gaudily labelled cans &ndash; was served at both high-end restaurants and humble diners in Britain, considered a favourite comfort food to combat the winter chill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe first toheroa cannery was established in the 1890s at Mahuta Gap by Ripiro Beach &ndash; New Zealand's longest stretch of sand &ndash; and the 1920s royal thumbs up saw others spring up across the country. From the 1920s to the 1960s, an average of 20 tonnes of toheroa was canned a year. There were dramatic spikes, though &ndash; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.royalsociety.org.nz\u002Fresearch\u002Fdisappearing-fish-delicacy\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E77 tonnes were put into tins in 1940\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for example, partly to supply New Zealand troops heading abroad to fight in World War Two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere was also an explosion in the number of people heading for New Zealand beaches to dig toheroa for themselves. In the 1920s, the daily limit on toheroa was 50 per person, and the shellfish could be taken for 10 months of the year. From the 1950s, as toheroa numbers dwindled, authorities still allowed an open season of two months, but reduced the individual limit to 20 per day. On one weekend in 1966, an estimated 50,000 people poured onto Ripiro Beach like a hungry whirlwind, pulling an estimated one million toheroa from its sands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToheroa stocks began to collapse &ndash; something that still angers Māori rights activists like Paturiri Toautu. \"For us Māori this \u003Cem\u003Ekai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (food) was very precious. They were an integral part of our food source,\" he said. \"But then the pakeha realised that serious money could be made from canning the toheroa and selling it overseas. So they built canneries, and within 20 years, our precious taonga was nearly extinct.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECommercial harvesting was finally banned 50 years ago, and the last \"open day\", when people could plunge into the shallow surf to dig for their own taste of seafood heaven, was back in 1993. Now anyone caught harvesting toheroa illegally faces fines up to NZ$20,000 (about &pound;10,300) or community service sentences &ndash; though that still doesn't deter everyone, with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nzherald.co.nz\u002Fnorthern-advocate\u002Fnews\u002Fman-caught-with-toheroa-on-northland-beach-says-he-was-getting-a-feed\u002FN333C2IH3TKJSLCKY74XYIWR7Q\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENZ Herald reporting\u003C\u002Fa\u003E a prosecution as recently as September 2022.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnly local Māori can still legally harvest this treasured form of \u003Cem\u003Ekai moana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (seafood) &ndash; and only then for special occasions such as tribal meetings or funerals. Serving toheroa also serves as a savoury manifestation of the key Māori principle of \u003Cem\u003Emanaakitanga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: generosity and hospitality that reflects the host's status and \u003Cem\u003Emana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (prestige).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMāori have teamed up with marine biologists to try and restore toheroa numbers. \"Māori have always been scientists,\" explained Mercier in one of her&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencelearn.org.nz\u002Fvideos\u002F563-tatai-arorangi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EScience Learning Hub broadcasts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Our science has allowed us to live, work and thrive in the world for hundreds of years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis Māori knowledge of the environment and its myriad forms of life is called \u003Cem\u003Emātauranga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, and its ancient insights have been appreciated by contemporary scientists for shedding light on some of the mysteries of toheroa life. \"Modern science has a surprising lack of knowledge around toheroa biology and ecology,\" said Ross.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Māori mātauranga, microscopic baby toheroa roam in the water for up to 21 days after birth, before riding the surf foam and onshore winds to get blown into the sand dunes, where they nestle inside a dune grass called \u003Cem\u003Epingao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (also known as golden sand sedge). After growing inside pingao, when ready to return to the ocean, the toheroa hitch a ride on flowerheads that sea breezes send tumbling from the dunes back down to the water's edge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Māori coastal communities share their ecological insights with scientists who, in turn, show them how to carry out precise data gathering to monitor changing amounts of toheroa on different beaches.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA key complement to this research involves educating children about toheroa and the need to change harmful human behaviours. For example, the pakeha love of driving cars on vast beaches like Ripiro may lead to young toheroa being crushed in the sand.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMāori author Betsy Young has combined toheroa conservation work with a children's book due to be published later this year. Written with fellow conservationist James Te Tuhi, The Journey of the Little Toheroa will weave together Māori and modern scientific knowledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYoung told me about joining her first project to enhance toheroa numbers, run by the Māori Women's Welfare League. \"That was the best environment project anyone could have done on the amazing life cycle of the toheroa,\" she said. \"We started a trust after that in 2005, winning many awards and going to schools to share stories about the pingao and its connection with toheroa.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile toheroa numbers remain in a state of flux, there are signs this legendary shellfish may be on the way back. \"I am always optimistic about the future of the toheroa,\" said Young.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShe is echoed by Ross. \"They are as abundant as I've seen them in 10 years. And there is a huge amount of young,\" he said. \"So, I'm optimistic that if the environmental conditions are right, the capacity is there for toheroa to recover. The issue is the human element &ndash; the need to make big decisions on how we use land.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-03-22T10:54:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Toheroa: A fabled shellfish that nearly vanished","headlineShort":"The clam as large as a human hand","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-35.9557898","longitude":"173.7358686","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Mainly found on New Zealand's North Island, this large clam treasured by Māori coastal communities nearly became extinct due to exploitation. But now, it might be on the way back.","summaryShort":"It was once called \"the rarest food item in the world\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-03-22T19:55:21.363998Z","entity":"article","guid":"ca2f1c36-d4e4-4fe3-a068-450e51d575ce","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-01T02:16:30.461937Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442533},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon","_id":"64b849b7a471ef0d556f4a7f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"From Asian-fusion feasts at Hello Beasty to fish and chips at FishSmith, the \"godfather of fusion cooking\" shares his top food picks in the world's biggest Polynesian city.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003ENew Zealand's most populous city sprawls across an isthmus between two harbours, its downtown commercial district perched on the waterfront of the Waitematā, a spiky cluster of skyscrapers and sails. Auckland is home to the largest Polynesian population &ndash; and one of the most culturally diverse populations &ndash; in the world, and its refreshingly unique food culture is heavily inspired by this multiculturalism, along with the region's fertile volcanic soils and its bounty of seafood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAs founding chef of a number of Auckland restaurants over the past few decades, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fskycityauckland.co.nz\u002Frestaurants\u002Fthe-sugar-club\u002F\"\u003EThe Sugar Club\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which remains at the top of the city's Sky Tower, internationally acclaimed chef Peter Gordon has long been associated with the cutting edge of the city's culinary scene. And after more than 30 years based in London, his restaurants building his reputation as the \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.greatbritishchefs.com\u002Fchefs\u002Fpeter-gordon\"\u003Egodfather of fusion cooking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", Gordon returned to Auckland in 2020 to create something he'd long yearned for: a \"food embassy for Aotearoa [New Zealand] and the Pacific\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EGordon has Scottish and Māori ancestry (Ngāti Kahungunu and Ngāi Tahu are his tribal affiliations), and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhomelandnz.com\u002F\"\u003EHomeland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; his restaurant, cooking school and artisan food store &ndash; is a vehicle to showcase the Māori concept of \u003Cem\u003Emanaākitanga\u003C\u002Fem\u003E &ndash; hospitality, generosity, compassion &ndash; via the sharing of food and the preparation that goes into it. Gordon has a nose for finding delicious and innovative food that's demonstrative of the city's cultural and geographical landscape. Here, he shares some of his top picks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAuckland is the largest Polynesian city in the world and boasts Māori culinary history stretching back at least 700 years. How do those \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eelements influence the city's food scene?\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAs a youth, I'd travel to Auckland for the school holidays and back then, there wasn't anything Pacific-influenced about the food. More recently you might find [Pacific] Island food at the weekend produce markets at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.otaramarkets.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EOtara\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.avondalesundaymarkets.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EAvondale\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, but it was kind of seen as only for Pacific people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Chef Peter Gordon at Homeland, Auckland","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EBut that's started to change within the past decade, and it's exciting. Hāngi is being rediscovered. It's the oldest way of cooking in New Zealand and methods like it feature around the Pacific Islands too. It's an earth oven: we dig a big hole in the ground and put rocks in, or even big railway sleepers and steel car parts; anything that retains the heat. We lower baskets full of food on top and cover it: these days it's with hessian sacks but traditionally it was woven flax, then soil. The food cooks away for hours. I once cooked hāngi for 800 or more: a whole sheep rubbed with smoked paprika and fennel seeds and wrapped in banana leaf. You can't really dig a pit at a restaurant, but more people than ever are able to enjoy hāngi thanks to people like Rewi Spraggon &ndash; the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fhangimaster.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EHāngi Master\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. He cooks the hāngi pork belly and beef we have on the menu at Homeland, and makes things for another downtown restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fahirestaurant.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EAhi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAt \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sweetandme.co.nz\u002F\"\u003ESweet and Me\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the suburb of Onehunga, chef Bert Jang's Fijian influences his baking; he uses ingredients from the Islands where he can, like \u003Cem\u003Ekoko Samoa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [Samoan cacao]. We are a nation of pie lovers and I love that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbluerosecatering.co.nz\u002Fcafe-menu\u002F\"\u003EBlue Rose Cafe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Sandringham is doing these fusion pies, marrying the European pastry traditions with Pacific flavours. The lu'au pie is filled with taro leaf, coconut cream, onion and cream cheese; the\u003Cem\u003E palusami \u003C\u002Fem\u003E[\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpolynesia.com\u002Fblog\u002Feasypalusami\"\u003Ea traditional Samoan dish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E] version has the addition of corned beef &ndash; corned beef is big across the Pacific; they also do a hāngi pie too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ELiving close to Homeland in Wynyard Quarter, what are your favourite food and drink spots in this waterfront precinct?\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EFor coffee, we go to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.macgregorbrothers.co.nz\u002Frushworth\"\u003ERushworth\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, right by the water on North Wharf &ndash; they always make it so well, with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.allpressespresso.com\u002F\"\u003EAllpress\u003C\u002Fa\u003E beans. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwilliamseatery.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EWilliams\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a lovely spot to meet people, especially on a sunny day when you sit outside &ndash; they put all their energy into doing really good breakfast and lunch. I love their bacon and egg buns in the morning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Brunch at Homeland, Auckland","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lapetitefourchette.co.nz\u002F\"\u003ELa Petite Fourchette\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has these elegant, delicate cakes I like to take home; recently they had one with cherry, it was super glossy and red on the outside with chocolate, mousse and sponge; [and] the croque monsieur is worth trying.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EI love that we can swim in Wynyard Quarter &ndash; even though there are all these boats in the marina, the water is clear, well-monitored and clean; we swim there nearly every day in summer where the big steps enter the water beside Park Hyatt. After a swim, order a cocktail at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hyatt.com\u002Fcontent\u002Fdam\u002Fhotel\u002Fpropertysites\u002Fassets\u002Fpark\u002Faklph\u002Fdocuments\u002Fdining\u002FCaptains-Bar-April-22.pdf\"\u003ECaptain's Bar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the hotel; I'd have a negroni or one of the rum cocktails.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECrossing the bridge over the Viaduct Basin to Downtown Auckland, where would you make a beeline for?\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkingibritomart.com\u002F\"\u003EKingi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has a funky, chic, elegant-yet-earthy dining room and [chef and owner] Tom Hishon does amazing things with fish; they really understand it and care about sustainability. Try it all: oysters, cured fish, the deep-fried \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchathamislandfood.com\u002Fcollections\u002Fseafood\"\u003EChatham Islands blue cod\u003C\u002Fa\u003E wings &ndash; the wings are a part that would often just be thrown away. I took Yotam Ottolenghi there and he loved it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Chatham Islands cod wings at Kingi, Auckland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.alma.nz\u002F\"\u003EAlma\u003C\u002Fa\u003E does things close to my heart, it makes me feel like I'm in Spain. It was awarded the city's best restaurant last year; the design is beautiful, the service always really good, and they put playful dishes on the menu. I like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcafehanoi.co.nz\u002F\"\u003ECafe Hanoi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for modern Vietnamese food and cocktails, and for something special we'd go to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mrmorris.nz\u002F\"\u003EMr Morris\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, [the chef and owner] Michael Meredith is one of the city's great chefs and has been bringing touches of Samoan culture to his cooking for years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhellobeasty.nz\u002F\"\u003EHello Beasty\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is possibly my favourite Auckland restaurant and one we visit often &ndash; the atmosphere is great, the food so interesting&hellip; fresh, flavoursome and punchy, and it looks great on the plate &ndash; and they play good music, which is a bonus. They even make their own tofu. The owner Stu is pretty much always there in the kitchen; he does the Asian-fusion vibe that I love so well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EI'm a rum fan and the Huckleberry (with fig) is a standout at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fheartofthecity.co.nz\u002Fpanacea\"\u003EPanacea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; it's a little hideaway cocktail space (not really a bar) serving inventive and whimsical small batch cocktails made by either Dany or his co-creator, Theo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Chefs in the kitchen at Alma, Auckland","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAuckland is a series of villages spread across the isthmus; what draws you out of the city and into the suburbs?&nbsp; \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EI love everything on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.karangahaperoad.com\u002F\"\u003EKarangahape Rd\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thecaker.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EThe Caker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cocoscantina.co.nz\u002F\"\u003ECoco's Cantina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, sex shops to night clubs to drag queens. It feels very Hackney in London. We ate a beautiful dish of hearts there the other night at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.barceleste.com\u002F\"\u003EBar Celeste\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003ESpeaking of hearts, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcazador.co.nz\u002F\"\u003ECazador\u003C\u002Fa\u003E's [chef] Dariush is so clever, cooking game and offal: hearts and [other] bits and pieces. I love the fact this restaurant, on Dominion Rd in the suburbs, is second-generation, and its deli side is great, especially the charcuterie they make. Dominion Rd is a really fun place to explore when you're not in a rush, it's like an extended Chinatown stretching down a long road through several suburbs. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpetaling-malaysian-restaurant.tuckerfox.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EPetaling Malaysian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E [also on Dominion Rd] is extraordinary &ndash; just so tasty &ndash; they cook seafood well and the rendang is delicious.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAt \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bycarmel.co.nz\u002F\"\u003ECarmel Israeli Street Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Eden Terrace, you can bite down into the fluffiest pita packed full of crisp salad, tahini sauce, falafel or meat. Everything is punchy flavoured and so fresh. And the babka &ndash; creamy lemon or Nutella &ndash; are fantastic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Handwritten menu on the wall at Carmel, Auckland","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EI love the vibrancy of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.avondalesundaymarkets.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EAvondale\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.otaramarkets.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EOtara\u003C\u002Fa\u003E markets, and a bit closer to the city we like to shop at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.greylynnfarmersmarket.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EGrey Lynn Farmers Market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on a Sunday morning. It has a social vibe, amazing produce and you get to meet the people who have grown or produced what they're selling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWhat are a few Auckland food traditions not to be missed?\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EFish and chips is a tradition here: order them from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Ffishsmith.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EFishSmith\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.aucklandcouncil.govt.nz\u002Fparks-recreation\u002FPages\u002Fpark-details.aspx?Location=1408\"\u003EHerne Bay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and take them down to one of the nearby beaches where you can sit and look out towards the Chelsea Sugar Factory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EKiwis love brunch, and I do think we do a really good brunch at Homeland. I love our hāngi pork, served on a paratha and topped with roast bananas and a seasonal condiment; recently it was feijoa kasundi &ndash; feijoas are a very Auckland fruit. Our kedgeree is lovely, with whatever type of smoked fish is best at the time, and our creamed \u003Cem\u003Epaua\u003C\u002Fem\u003E on toast hasn't been able to leave the menu, it's so loved. Paua is black abalone, indigenous to New Zealand waters. When I was growing up, creamed paua was a typical dish you'd see on the \u003Cem\u003Emarae\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [hub of a Māori community] but often it was a bit gross with the \u003Cem\u003Epaua hua\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (stomach or roe) and gloopy bechamel sauce. Our version at Homeland is really good paua meat with onion, cream and butter and a tiny bit of gluten-free flour. Sometimes customers get a bit emotional and teary when they eat it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-20T10:37:22Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A foodie pilgrimage around Auckland, with internationally acclaimed chef Peter Gordon","headlineShort":"Peter Gordon's food guide to Auckland","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Plates of food at Kingi, Auckland","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-36.8509","longitude":"174.7645","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Plates of food at Kingi, Auckland","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From Asian-fusion feasts at Hello Beasty to fish and chips at FishSmith, the \"godfather of fusion cooking\" shares his top food picks in the world's biggest Polynesian city.","summaryShort":"The internationally acclaimed chef shares his top picks in the city","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-19T20:37:58.254379Z","entity":"article","guid":"070ee94c-4e2d-4ca8-ac04-d1a07b05b800","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon","modifiedDateTime":"2023-07-19T22:49:00.697291Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442533},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand","_id":"64c974c8a471ef0d41459aa5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjessica-wynne-lockhart"],"bodyIntro":"New Zealand is emerging as a global leader in regenerative tourism, thanks in part to Māori tour operators such as the Bay of Plenty's Kohutapu Lodge.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFirst-time tourists to New Zealand often perceive Māori culture as an itinerary item to be ticked-off in an afternoon, usually in Rotorua. The North Island city has been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-birthplace-of-new-zealand-tourism\"\u003Econsidered the epicentre of cultural tourism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E since the latter half of the 19th Century, when Māori guides first led British and American tourists to the area's famed geothermal sites. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECenturies later, cruise ships and tour buses continue to shuttle passengers directly to \"Rotovegas\", where polished \u003Cem\u003Ekapa haka\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (song and dance) performances come packaged with a \u003Cem\u003Ehāngī \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(earth-cooked meal) and a tour of a \u003Cem\u003Emarae \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(Māori meeting grounds). Across NZ, this trifecta has long been the blueprint for Indigenous tourism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut an hour south-east of Rotorua in Murupara &ndash; one of the country's most socially and economically disadvantaged communities &ndash; a family-owned business is flipping the script. At \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkohutapulodge.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EKohutapu Lodge and Tribal Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, tourists get far more than just dinner and a show; they get the opportunity to be immersed in a modern Māori community where there is no stage or costumes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We've always just called it 'real people tourism',\" said Nadine Toe Toe, co-owner of Kohutapu Lodge. \"If you want a show, stay in the main centres. But if you want a day in the life to understand our people, then \u003Cem\u003Ehaere mai whanau\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: you're welcome to come into our home and our community.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g3w6fp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Karl Toe Toe checks the hinaki (eel trap) at Kohutapu Lodge","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat's why I didn't ask any questions when Nadine handed me a pair of wellies less than an hour after I checked in. Instead, I followed her partner, Karl Toe Toe, to the edge of a stream, where he held a basket with a funnel-shaped opening at one end. It was empty, save for a rotting fish carcass inside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you want a show, stay in the main centres. But if you want a day in the life to understand our people, then haere mai whanau: you're welcome to come into our home and our community","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The smell will attract the \u003Cem\u003Etuna,\" \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eexplained Karl, using the te reo Māori word for New Zealand's endemic longfin eels, a traditional food source and one of his tribe's most revered animals. He dropped the \u003Cem\u003Ehīnaki \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(eel trap) into the water, tying it to a nearby tree.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELearning to eel is just one of the activities available to Kohutapu's guests. They might also find themselves helping the Toe Toes cook a hāngī before packaging it and distributing it to community members in need or sitting down for tea with local \u003Cem\u003Ekaumātua\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (elders) at the marae\u003Cem\u003E. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccommodation ranges from basic cabins to a plush five-bedroom house, which is where I spent the night. In the morning, I woke to the honk of black swans gliding across Lake Aniwhenua, a narrow body of water created by the dammed Rangitāiki River. On the opposite shore, mist pink with the morning's glow clung low to the perfectly planted rows of radiata pine trees; the legacy of Murupara's forestry industry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g41ydj"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Cabins at Kohutapu Lodge with lake behind","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENgāti Manawa &ndash; the area's \u003Cem\u003Eiwi \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(tribe) &ndash; has resided here, at the base of the Ikawhenua mountain range, for hundreds of years. The surrounding rainforest still bears evidence of this early habitation, with \u003Cem\u003Ewakas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E or Māori canoes carved into the rock. But it wasn't until the 1950s that Murupara sprung into existence, built to service the Kaingaroa Logging Company and named for one of the river's sacred eels. The town's residents were employed on the 150,000-hectare pine plantation, the largest in the southern hemisphere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EBased in one of New Zealand's most socially and economically disadvantaged areas, \u003Cem\u003Emanaakitanga \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(showing generosity to others) is one of Kohutapu Lodge and Tribal Tour's guiding principles. The Māori-owned tourism business is \"changing a town through tourism\" and preserving culture by creating employment opportunities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"What makes it regenerative","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a place of prosperity until the mid-1980s when the New Zealand government began to sell its forests off to private interests. Today, unemployment sits at around 14% &ndash; one of the highest rates in the country &ndash; and gang violence and substance abuse have both taken root within the predominantly Māori community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo, in 2013, when the Toe Toes announced they were uprooting their life in Rotorua to return to Karl's tribal lands, a few eyebrows lifted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"People said to me: 'Are you crazy? You're going to Murupara, of all places?',\" recalled Nadine. \"I couldn't understand the chasm between how I could see the community and how people outside were looking at it. I'd seen how beautiful this place was. And all I could see clearly in my head was this vision.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat vision, she said, was simple: change a town through tourism.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMurupara, a place that most Kiwis would be hard-pressed to find on a map, isn't on-route to any major attractions. Yet, Nadine believed a tourism venture could provide economic opportunities like forestry once did. She already had more than 20 years of experience in the industry, including as the national sales manager for what's now known as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fte-pa-tu.com\u002F\"\u003ETe Pā Tū\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a highly awarded Māori cultural attraction that follows the \u003Cem\u003Ehāngī\u003C\u002Fem\u003E dinner-and-a-show model. She knew she couldn't just replicate Rotorua's recipe though.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g3w6kw"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The Kaingaroa Maori rock carvings, New Zealand","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"These are real people and real lives,\" she said. \"This is not a show; it is not a song and dance. And with that comes [the need to act] with integrity and respect.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven before \"authenticity\" was a buzzword, she sensed that tourists were hungry for deeper experiences. She was right. By 2019, Kohutapu was welcoming 5,000 international visitors a year. In 2021, it expanded to include a day tour, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhirinakiforestfootsteps.co.nz\u002F\"\u003EWhirinaki Forest Footsteps\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The forest bathing experience travels deep into the nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.doc.govt.nz\u002Fparks-and-recreation\u002Fplaces-to-go\u002Feast-coast\u002Fplaces\u002Fwhirinaki-te-pua-a-tane-conservation-park\u002F?tab-id=50578\"\u003EWhirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne Conservation Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the world's last prehistoric rainforests, where visitors learn about its spiritual significance. The programme is also offered free-of-charge to at-risk youth to help them reconnect with nature. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFollowing local guides Himiona Nuku and Kalvin Stone, I hiked beneath canopies of towering tree ferns and native \u003Cem\u003Ematai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and \u003Cem\u003Erimu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E trees before arriving at the base of a 1,500-year-old \u003Cem\u003Etotara\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. An endemic podocarp (a type of conifer), they've been recorded to grow up to 35m tall.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EIti rearea, kahikatea tei tei, ka taea.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E Even the smallest bird can reach the top of the forest,\" said Stone, gazing up. \"It's a message we send back to our kids.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Murupara's youth, the community's lack of economic opportunities has only been further compounded by colonisation and intergenerational trauma. Many are now the third generation in their families to face unemployment. \"They're jewels that just need a bit of polish,\" Nadine later told me. \"If my job is to build them a stage, then give me the hammer and nails.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g41yc9"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Guests learn to weave with Kohutapu Lodge guide","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor now, they have the courtyard of the marae. When tour groups arrive, the town's youth join elders in performing \u003Cem\u003Ehaka pōwhiri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a traditional welcome to the marae, and guide groups through the \u003Cem\u003Ewharenui \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(meeting house) before sitting down with them for tea. Unlike Rotorua's highly scripted performances, it's an intimate exchange between hosts and guests. Not only does it allow youth to earn a wage, it gives them a chance to develop pride in their community &ndash; no costumes necessary &ndash; while engaging in cross-cultural exchanges they wouldn't otherwise have access to.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When you see our people with genuine pride behind who they are, it makes it a little bit sweeter","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Visitors are like, 'Wow, this is how you keep your language, your culture, your history and your people alive',\" said 22-year-old Erinah Cecilia Waiariki-Anderson, who has been a guide with Kohutapu Lodge since she was 17. \"When you see our people with genuine pride behind who they are, it makes it a little bit sweeter.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMoney earned from hosting international tourists is then funnelled back into the community. This has included providing scholarships, international exchanges and work-training programmes for vulnerable and underemployed youth, and donating NZ$30,000 (&pound;14,500) to the local marae. More than 30,000 hāngī meals have been delivered to people in need, including through the local school where students can meet international guests. (The programme has been on hiatus since the start of the pandemic, but Nadine is optimistic it will return soon.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's partially because of Māori concepts like \u003Cem\u003Emanaakitanga \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(showing generosity, kindness and respect to others) and \u003Cem\u003Ekaitiakitanga \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(guardianship of the land for future generations) that New Zealand \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lonelyplanet.com\u002Farticles\u002Fregenerative-tourism-new-zealand\"\u003Eis regarded as a leader\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the regenerative tourism space. Since 2018, visitors entering the country have been asked to abide by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiakinewzealand.com\u002F\"\u003ETiaki Promise\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a pledge underscored by these principles. In 2023, when the government released its strategic plan for the country's tourism industry, regenerative tourism was at the forefront. And increasingly, innovative new Indigenous-led tours &ndash; from guided canoe excursions to crafts workshops &ndash; are emerging across the country, reflecting the diversity of the landscape and its people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g41yc7"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Whirinaki Forest Footsteps guide Himiona Nuku with guests","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Regenerative tourism, fundamentally, is built upon Indigenous culture. \u003Cem\u003ETe ao Māori\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [the Māori worldview] \u003Cem\u003Eis \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eregenerative tourism,\" said Nadine. \"Now people are starting to see us and hear us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen a new award &ndash; the Regenerative Tourism Award &ndash; was added to the 2022 New Zealand Tourism Awards, it became the most coveted. Few were surprised to hear Kohutapu Lodge \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nztourismawards.org.nz\u002F2022-winners\"\u003Enamed as the winner\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Regeneration is a continual process of rebirth and developing the inherent potential of a place &ndash; and that's what Nadine is doing. She's created an experience that is deeply reciprocal for both visitors and the people in her community,\" said Debbie Clarke, director of regenerative development at New Zealand's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.good-travel.org\u002F\"\u003EThe Centre for GOOD Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It's not a passive viewing experience. It's a deep exchange and it's an invitation into a community who shares who they are on their own terms.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe next day, on our drive to check the eel trap, the conversation between Karl and I flowed nonstop. We shared ghost stories and tales of our respective childhoods. He told me that he was shy until they opened Kohutapu but now he can't stop talking. He said it's what visitors crave most: \u003Cem\u003Ekōrero\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (conversation).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPulling the trap from the water, we found three eels in its mesh, all too young to keep. Karl released them on the shore. They wound through the mud, a slow bid to find their way back to the stream. One, though, seemed lost. Karl, without a thought to its slimy exterior, picked it up and placed it back in the water, ensuring it would find its way home again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-08-02T10:09:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Kohutapu Lodge: A model for regenerative tourism in New Zealand","headlineShort":"NZ's most authentic tourist experience?","image":["p0g41yf5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Person sitting in NZ rainforest on Whirinaki Forest Footsteps","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-38.4575","longitude":"176.7051","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Person sitting in NZ rainforest on Whirinaki Forest Footsteps","promoImage":["p0g41yf5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220426-new-zealands-town-that-needs-a-passport","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230322-toheroa-a-fabled-shellfish-that-nearly-vanished","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230719-best-places-to-eat-in-auckland-according-to-chef-peter-gordon"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"New Zealand is emerging as a global leader in regenerative tourism, thanks in part to Māori tour operators such as the Bay of Plenty's Kohutapu Lodge.","summaryShort":"A family-owned business is flipping the script on Indigenous tourism","tag":["tag\u002Fregenerative-tourism","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-08-01T21:10:14.792482Z","entity":"article","guid":"9df76de3-349e-493a-9dfe-61805178d311","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-04T23:30:54.391113Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230801-kohutapu-lodge-a-model-for-regenerative-tourism-in-new-zealand","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnew-zealand","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia-and-pacific"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_new-zealand_australia-and-pacific","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442533},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history","_id":"64a46161a471ef2ede547133","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"It's mentioned in the Bible, it been used by a succession of empires and it links some of Jordan's most important historical sites.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Welcome to Jordan!\" a group of kids shouted excitedly, as I stepped out of the car to admire the sun setting over the vast sandstone canyon of Wadi Mujib.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile I stood on the cliff's edge, awestruck by the mountain ranges stretching to the Dead Sea, a black-and-white hooded wheatear swooped down near me. I wondered how something so delicate could survive in such desolate ravines, fluttering across the arid mountains and building nests in rock crevices.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom my perch, I could see a narrow, serpentine road winding down the ridges and gorges. This route, known as the King's Highway, or \u003Cem\u003EDarb ar-Raseef\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"paved road\", in Arabic), is believed to be one of the world's oldest continuously used roads. For millennia, merchants, pilgrims, warriors and kings travelled north to south through Jordan's central highlands, and this thoroughfare served as a vital artery connecting ancient kingdoms and empires.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, a modern, tarmacked road (officially called Highway 35) sits atop its ancient ancestor. It runs south from Syria along the Jordan River, passing through Roman ruins, Byzantine mosaics, Crusader castles and the ancient city of Petra &ndash; effectively revealing the history of Jordan and linking some of its most important historical sites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This route was used in the Nabataean period [4th Century BCE to roughly 106 CE], and probably even before that, in the Iron Age,\" said Fawzi Abudanah, an archaeologist who has studied the region's ancient road system.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA road traversing Jordan known as the \"King's Highway\" is mentioned in the Bible's Old Testament as the route that Moses asked permission to cross after leading the Israelites out of Egypt. As Abudanah explained, since there is archaeological evidence showing Edomite, Nabataean, Roman, Byzantine and Islamic presence along much of the current highway, it suggests that this road has been in continuous use since at least the 8th Century BCE. \"We keep following the footsteps of our ancestors,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Abudanah, in ancient times, the King's Highway was an important trade route connecting Arabia, the Fertile Crescent, the Red Sea and Egypt. Caravans transporting incense and spices from Arabia took this road on their way to the thriving Nabataean capital of Petra. In the Roman period, emperor Trajan (who reigned between 98-117 CE) renamed the route Via Nova Traiana and paved it to accommodate wheeled carts. \"We can still find Roman milestones on the side of the modern road,\" Abudanah said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries, the road was also an important pilgrimage route. In the Byzantine period, Christians used it on their way to visit biblical sites in the Holy Land, such as Golgotha, the site of Jesus crucifixion. In the early Islamic period, many Muslims travelled along it on their way to Mecca.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI lived in Amman, Jordan's capital on and off for several years, but always took the faster, easier roads heading south. When my cousin came to visit me, we decided the best way to explore the country's long and tangled history was to take the King's Highway and travel slowly along the path that the many civilisations who have shaped this ancient land once used.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ancient road once passed by Amman's highest hill, occupied since the Bronze Age. So before leaving the capital, we wandered among the ruins of a Roman temple, a Byzantine church and an Umayyad palace, which reflect the history of Jordan's layered heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe then travelled 30km south &ndash; past olive orchards, ripening pomegranates and rows of prickly pears &ndash; to the ancient town of Madaba. \"The road crosses the most fertile part of the country, the area where you have springs and water sources, but also agricultural land. It's the backbone of Jordan,\" Abudanah told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMadaba is best known for its collection of Byzantine-era mosaics. The most famous of them, the remains of a 6th-Century floor mosaic housed in the modest St George Orthodox church, is considered the oldest surviving map of the Holy Land, and depicts various sites linked by the King's Highway. Near the church's altar, I tried to decipher the Greek captions indicating Jerusalem in the centre of the map, and marvelled at the details of fish swimming in the River Jordan and boats on the Dead Sea.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENine kilometres west of Madaba, a short detour from the King's Highway led us to Mount Nebo, where Moses purportedly first saw the Promised Land, and where he's believed to have died and been buried.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the Old Testament, Moses asks the King of Edom to pass through his land in what is now south-western Jordan. \"We will stay on the main road until we leave your territory,\" he promised. But his request to travel along the King's Highway was denied. The modern road is far more welcoming &ndash; I was told \"Welcome to Jordan\" dozens of times, and was offered tea and invited for lunch and dinner by many locals I met along the road.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"People here are so kind and generous,\" said Sabine Hendriks, a Dutch tourist cycling along the King's Highway with her partner, heading south to the Red Sea port of Aqaba. \"When we couldn't cycle up a very steep hill, a truck stopped to help us. It was already full, but somehow they managed to find space for us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a quick stop to stretch our legs, a young man working in a bakery by the side of the road told us we were his guests and brought us a tray of sweets and warm date bread. Satiated, we continued south across the gently undulating plateau towards the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1093\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of Umm ar-Rasas. When we reached the archaeological site it was already closing time, but a friendly guard named Alaa let us in anyway and offered to show us around.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce a Roman garrison town, the site houses ruins from the Roman, Byzantine and Early Islamic periods. While we walked to the remains of an 8th-Century church (monastic Christianity was tolerated during Islamic rule), Alaa asked us to close our eyes, and we were only allowed to open them when we were in front of the site's renowned mosaics. I stood there consumed by the ancient towns and pomegranate trees depicted on the church's floor, wondering how the mosaics remained so vivid after more than 1,200 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe travelled along the valleys and rolling hills dotted with oak, cypress and juniper trees, the landscape becoming increasingly arid, and watched the sunset at Wadi Mujib. The next morning, we explored the medieval castle in the city of Kerak. Built in 1142 and retaken by Muslims in 1188, it is one the biggest and best-preserved Crusader fortresses in the Middle East. Fuad, a local guide, led us through the castle's many floors, some buried so deep we needed a torch to see the vaulted halls and underground chambers. He asked us to imagine Saladin, the legendary sultan who defeated the Crusaders, sitting there on a throne, their battles playing out against the backdrop of the ancient highway.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EContinuing south along the meandering road, we passed by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rscn.org.jo\u002Fcontent\u002Fdana-biosphere-reserve-1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDana Biosphere Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Jordan's largest and most diverse protected region. Spread over 292 sq km, this mountainous swath of the Great Rift Valley shifts from towering sandstone cliffs to desert plains. The plan was to visit the town of Shobak's imposing medieval castle. But instead, we stopped on a curvy by-road in the arid hills to drink coffee with Mohammad \"Abu Ali\" Al-Malaheem. When the former tour guide retired, he decided to build what he calls \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fweb.facebook.com\u002Fpeople\u002FThe-smallest-hotel-in-the-world-أصغر-فندق-في-العالم\u002F100066811832894\u002F?_rdc=1&amp;_rdr\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe world's smallest hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" &ndash; a battered Volkswagen Beetle lovingly decorated with his daughter's embroidery &ndash; that's become so popular, it has been visited by Jordan's King Abdullah II.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAbu Ali gifted me a colourful beaded necklace made by local women. His generosity and endearing roadside hotel reminded me that while the King's Highway might have lost its importance as a major trade route, it's the people who you meet and experiences you have along the way that bring it to life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter a purposefully slow, two-day, 250km road trip, we reached our final destination: Petra, which was declared one of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fworld.new7wonders.com\u002Fwonders\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENew Seven Wonders of the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Few places can rival the splendour of the ancient Nabataean city carved out of red sandstone in the arid desert. Petra was once a great mercantile city at the crossroads of empires and ancient trade routes, and the road used by Nabataean caravans that made the region prosperous is now trodden by tourists who come from all over the world to visit the site's more-than-2,000-year-old temples, tombs and altars intricately carved into the narrow canyons.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELater that day, we stopped on a road outside of Petra to give a ride to a woman walking home after a long day selling souvenirs at the site's archaeological park. She introduced herself as Umm Khaled and, despite being exhausted from work, she invited us to her home in a nearby village.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMost of the Bedouin tribes in the area still depend on the Nabataean paths. Umm Khaled, who belongs to the Ammarin tribe, told me how difficult it was to make ends meet when the roads were emptied of visitors during the pandemic, and how her family is still struggling. Insisting I come back for tea, Umm Khaled showed me how, even through hardship, she and many others are able to make the desert a hospitable place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHeading back to Amman with the promise to visit her again, I thought about the black-and-white bird I saw in the ravine of Wadi Mujib and how throughout history, people here have managed to carve extraordinary monuments from these rocks and breathe life into this arid landscape. The King's Highway not only showcases the most important phases of Jordan's history, but also reveals what makes the country so special: the surprising possibility of finding beauty, kindness and generosity even in the most difficult of places.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, &nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-01-10T10:10:16Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The King's Highway: The road that reveals Jordan's history","headlineShort":"The ancient road that bridged kingdoms","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"31.9539","longitude":"35.9106","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It's mentioned in the Bible, has been used by a succession of empires and links some of Jordan's most important historical sites","summaryShort":"It is believed to be one of the world's oldest continuously used roads","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-01-09T21:53:59.726697Z","entity":"article","guid":"524cefc4-d8e2-4893-b36a-38f53649e291","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history","modifiedDateTime":"2023-01-11T17:51:16.520032Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442534},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation","_id":"64c81d0ea471ef30ab2b4d86","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fleon-mccarron"],"bodyIntro":"This once-mighty river is where humans first developed agriculture, writing and the wheel. But now the lifeblood of the ancient world is under threat.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EReaching the source of the Tigris is not an easy task. Where a dirt road ends, a small path leads over the shoulder of a jagged mountain whose peaks are gnawed like fingernails. The path becomes a goat track, treacherously narrow, winding around the hillside until it is halted by a tumble of springs. These form a torrential stream that disappears into a vast, arched tunnel. When the nascent river emerges 1.5km later, it is tamed by whatever happened deep inside the cave.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ancient \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-31941827\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAssyrians\u003C\u002Fa\u003E believed this to be a place where the physical and spiritual worlds collide. Three thousand years ago, their armies travelled upstream to offer sacrifices. A relief of Tiglath-Pileser, King of Assyria from 1114-1076 BCE still stands at the mouth of the tunnel. Time has dulled his edges, but he remains upright and regal, pointing out across his empire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe source of the Tigris lies in present-day Turkey, where it flows south-east out of the Taurus Mountains. It skims a pinched corner of north-east Syria and then passes through the cities of Mosul, Tikrit and Samarra on its way to Baghdad. In southern Iraq, the sprawling \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-22706024\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMesopotamian Marshes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E absorb the Tigris close to the confluence with its sister river, the Euphrates, and both flow together to the Persian Gulf.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g400zq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Dawn on the Tigris river","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAround 8,000 years ago, our hunter-gatherer ancestors settled in the great floodplain between these two rivers and developed agriculture and animal husbandry, leading many to call the area the \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.history.com\u002Fnews\u002Fhow-mesopotamia-became-the-cradle-of-civilization\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECradle of Civilisation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\". From these early city-states &ndash; like Eridu, Ur and Uruk &ndash; came the invention of the wheel and the written word. Codified legal systems, sailing boats, beer brewing and love songs followed, among other inventions.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd yet, because of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-middle-east-64976144\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edecades of conflict\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that have plagued modern Iraq, the fact that the Tigris has guarded and shaped our shared human heritage is easily forgotten.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor 10 weeks in 2021, a small team and I travelled roughly 2,000km by boat and overland from the Tigris' source to where it empties into the Persian Gulf &ndash; a journey one advisor told me likely hadn't been attempted since the Ottoman era. My goal was to chart the river's historical importance and tell its story through the voices of those who live along its banks, while also investigating the threats to its future. A combination of geo-political instability, poor water management and climate change has led some to state that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.voanews.com\u002Fa\u002Ftwilight-of-the-tigris-iraq-s-mighty-river-drying-up\u002F6756448.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethis once-mighty river is dying\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. I hoped our journey would be a reminder of what emerged from this land, and what we would collectively lose if the river that birthed civilisation dried up.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEighty kilometres from the Tigris' source in Eğil, Turkey, the ramparts of an Assyrian castle have been modified by the Greeks, Armenians, Byzantines, Romans and Ottomans who all later settled along the river's banks. Further downstream in Diyarbakır, Turkey, where another \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1488\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efortress\u003C\u002Fa\u003E still stands that has existed in some incarnation since the Bronze Age, a similar layering has taken place. Today, the city is the de-facto capital of Turkey's large Kurdish population, and in its labyrinthine alleyways, we rested in a basalt courtyard under the shade of a mulberry tree, transfixed by the haunting sounds echoing around the walls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g4017s"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"A church in Diyarbakır, Turkey","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere, a woman in a quilted beige jacket sat on a bench, her right hand cupped around her ear. Her name was Feleknaz Aslan, and for 30 minutes, her booming voice held us captive. She was a \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181119-the-middle-easts-travelling-storytellers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edengb&ecirc;j\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a Kurdish singing storyteller, whose ancestors have passed histories and folktales down through generations. Aslan's song was about a doomed love affair on the banks of the Tigris. Most dengb&ecirc;j are men now, she said, but the practice was invented by women. It was a way of preserving identity and culture, and she explained that the Tigris is a common backdrop in these songs &ndash; recognised then as now as a central feature of life for Kurds in this region.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESouth-east of Diyarbakır, the Tigris etches a deep canyon through the Tur Abdin region of Turkey's Taurus mountains. For centuries, this has been the heartland of the ancient Syriac Orthodox Church, whose origins date back to the dawn of Christianity. We climbed to a remote 4th-Century monastery, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmardin.ktb.gov.tr\u002FTR-311849\u002Fmor-evgin-manastiri.html\"\u003EMor Evgin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which clings to the cliff as if suspended by faith alone.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside the nave, plaster applied by some of the world's first Christians still stuck to the walls, and spidery Syriac script crawled around the walls in webs of prayer. I lit a candle in an alcove and bowed my head. It was another reminder of how the Tigris' fertile watershed allowed Judaism, Christianity and Islam to flourish (Abraham, a spiritual model for each faith, is said to have come from here), and how these populations later took their goods, ideas, beliefs to the far corners of the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe travelled by small boat whenever possible, though access to the Tigris is often tricky. In Turkey, navigating the river is difficult because of a series of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.reuters.com\u002Farticle\u002Fus-turkey-dam-idUSKCN1US194\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehighly contentious dam-building projects\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In Syria, the Tigris is an international border. It wasn't until Mosul, a city carved in two by the river, that we were finally able to travel more freely.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g401cq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mosul, Iraq seen from the Tigris river","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen ISIS occupied Mosul from 2014-2017, it forbade residents from using the Tigris and Mosul's Old City on the river's west bank became the group's last refuge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdiyarbakir.goturkiye.com\u002Fsee\"\u003EDiyarbakır city walls\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: Walk along the ancient structures to take in thousands of years of the region's layered history and take in panoramic views across the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheglobalcoalition.org\u002Fen\u002Fmosul-heritage-house\u002F\"\u003EMosul Heritage House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: A restored heritage home-turned museum and cultural hub that's emblematic of Mosul's post-ISIS rebirth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F276\u002F\"\u003EGreat Mosque of Samarra\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: The spiralling, snail-shell minaret of Malwiya is one of Iraq's iconic sites and has stood since the 9th Century.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theiraqmuseum.com\u002F\"\u003EIraq Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: A vast and remarkable collection of the nation's storied history.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1481\u002F\"\u003EMesopotamian Marshes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: Expansive, biodiverse wetlands that have nurtured the unique culture of the Marsh Arabs for millennia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Five sites to see along the Tigris","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDuring the fighting, every bridge in Mosul spanning the river was destroyed and some jihadists reportedly jumped into the Tigris in an attempt to escape during the final battle. Historically, the river might have been a connective force, but we saw how it became a point of conflict.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMosul's Arabic name, Al-Mawsiil, means \"the linking point\", likely because it was a crossroads of trade and a major hub along the Tigris between Diyarbakır and Basra. Established in the 7th Century BCE, it's one of the oldest cities in the world, and during its pinnacle in the 12th-Century AD, it not only wielded great power and influence over the region but became ethnically and religiously diverse. This confluence of cultures created a rich cultural space, and while \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-middle-east-47777052\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emuch of the Old City was destroyed by ISIS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the city's spirit lingers on.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"People think we have nothing left,\" said Salman Khairalla, who co-founded the Tigris River Protectors' Association and a companion on our journey. \"But there's so much along the Tigris that survived it all. And more than that, we Iraqis always rebuild. We will never accept destruction.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Mosul, the toppled 12th-Century \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-middle-east-46595328\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreat Mosque of al-Nouri\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is being reconstructed with a huge endowment from Unesco and the UAE. Just as striking is the community-led cultural revival. Opposite al-Nuri is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fqaflab.com\u002Fvr\u002Fhammam-al-mankosha\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBaytna\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, meaning \"our home\", where young Moslawi artists have created a multi-purpose museum, cafe and venue space by refurbishing an old Ottoman home. \"We don't want people to forget what happened here,\" Sara Salem Al-Dabbagh, one of the space's founders, told me. \"But we want to create opportunities for employment, and a place to support people with skills.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g401g1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The ancient gated entrance to Ashur, Iraq","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Tigris carried us on to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1130\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAshur\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the first capital of the Assyrian empire, where a 4,000-year-old \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20220822-the-ziggurat-of-ur-iraqs-answer-to-the-pyramids\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eziggurat\u003C\u002Fa\u003E looms over the river. In the desert beyond were \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Ftentativelists\u002F1463\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENimrud\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a later Assyrian capital and the 2,000-year-old caravan city of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F277\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHatra\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. All three were damaged by ISIS, but heroic teams of local archaeologists are doing their best to protect the sites, even with the scant resources available.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a region that often makes international news for its war and hostility, one of the most lasting impressions of my journey was that of unadulterated hospitality. Even during Ramadan, tea was prepared by hosts who were themselves fasting. Many a poor goat ended up atop a rice platter for us in lavish banquets. In the village of Kifrij, the mayor told us how two young shepherds smuggled civilians across the Tigris from ISIS-held territory to safety at night using only a tractor inner tube. I found that no amount of recent violence could shatter residents' willingness to help strangers and their sense of generosity. Like strands of the braided river itself, the Tigris is woven throughout all of these stories; as a boundary between life and death, but also as the vehicle for great acts of kindness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe spent a Sunday with the Mandaeans, the smallest, and perhaps oldest, ethno-religious group in Iraq.&nbsp;The Mandaeans believe in regular baptisms as a source of spiritual nourishment and a way to cleanse sins. Baptisms must be performed in running water and the Tigris, as one of the two rivers that allowed the faith to first flourish, is still home to many members of the community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI watched as, one by one, a priest led eight women to the Tigris and gently submerged them, whispering prayers in Mandaic; an ancient Aramaic dialect for which they are the sole guardians. \"The water here is the same as in the next universe,\" the priest's assistant told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g401hg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mandaeans bathing in the Tigris river","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe river that the Mandaeans and so many communities rely on is in danger. But from activists like Khairalla to the archaeologists of Ashur to the Moslawi artists reclaiming their culture, I found that the Tigris' guardians are not willing to give up and are committed to rebuilding.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked Khairalla about the future of the river, he said simply, \"Iraqis must always have hope. Whatever generations before us do, we can change.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(\u003Ca href=\"leonmccarron.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELeon McCarron\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is an Iraqi-based broadcaster and explorer and the author of the new book Wounded Tigris, available in&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.simonandschuster.com\u002Fbooks\u002FWounded-Tigris\u002FLeon-McCarron\u002F9781639365074\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorth America\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;and the&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hachette.co.uk\u002Ftitles\u002Fleon-mccarron\u002Fwounded-tigris\u002F9781472156235\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUK\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-08-01T15:24:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Tigris: The river that birthed civilisation","headlineShort":"The river that birthed civilisation","image":["p0g400tt"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The Tigris river in Turkey","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"36.3489","longitude":"43.1577","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230524-a-road-trip-across-the-cradle-of-civilisation","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230109-the-kings-highway-the-road-that-reveals-jordans-history"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This once-mighty river is where humans first developed agriculture, writing and the wheel. But now the lifeblood of the ancient world is under threat.","summaryShort":"It inspired agriculture, writing and the wheel – but now it's under threat","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Freligion","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-31T20:43:41.099806Z","entity":"article","guid":"7f651860-13fe-4d31-9a24-811382720ef0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-02T14:55:43.544429Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230731-the-tigris-the-river-that-birthed-civilisation","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Firaq","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fturkey","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fmiddle-east","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"middle-east_iraq_europe_turkey_middle-east_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442534},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream","_id":"64a46161a471ef0d6a0328ad","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Aptly named after its place of origin, this sweet, thick whipped cream is arguably the best of its kind – the \"crème de la crème\" so to speak.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn a magnificent castle in the town Chantilly, France, lies a well-kept recipe for one of the world's greatest indulgences: Chantilly cream. Aptly named after its place of origin, this thick whipped cream sweetened with icing sugar and flavoured with vanilla is arguably the best of its kind &ndash; the \"cr&egrave;me de la cr&egrave;me\" so to speak &ndash; that was once a delicacy of European royalty. It is legendary not only for its taste fit for a king, but also for its likely true inventor: surprisingly, an Italian.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Chantilly%20cream%20recipe\" target=\"_self\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrenchman Fran&ccedil;ois Vatel (1631-1671), the butler of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchateaudechantilly.fr\u002Fen\u002Fchateau\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECh&acirc;teau de&nbsp;Chantilly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Chantilly Castle) for Prince Louis II de Bourbon-Cond&eacute;, is often falsely credited as the inventor of Chantilly cream. Legend has it that during a meal when the so-called Great Cond&eacute; received his cousin King Louis XIV in 1671, Vatel did not have enough cream for dessert, so he shook what he had to increase its volume, thereby creating \"Chantilly cream\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"But he was not even a cook, and Chantilly cream did not appear until 50 years after his death,\" said Nicole Garnier, honorary curator of heritage at Chantilly Castle and author of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finfine-editions.fr\u002Fpublications\u002Fvatel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVatel: The Splendours of the Table Under Louis XIV\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. (What is true of Vatel and made him famous two centuries later is that he killed himself by sword due to supply mishaps with important meals for the king.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMoreover, traditional whipped cream &ndash; which was then known as \"milk snow\" and made with egg whites, cream, sugar and flavourings &ndash; pre-dated Vatel by at least 100 years. It was first recorded in the early 1500s in Italy, where it evolved with societal taste, according to Garnier. \"In the Middle Ages, people generally didn't like dairy products; they were considered good for peasants who had cows next to them.\" But during the 16th-Century Italian Renaissance, dairy products became appreciated by the aristocracy, with whipped cream being served during the time of Catherine de' Medici. \"The Italians were the first to bring it into fashion and then it spread throughout Northern Europe,\" Garnier noted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite its popularity in Italy, the first published recipe for traditional whipped cream appeared in England in 1545. The first recipe related to thicker, egg white-free Chantilly cream came about 200 years later in a 1750 French cookbook, La Science du Ma&icirc;tre d\u003Cstrong\u003E'\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EH&ocirc;tel Cuisinier,by Fran&ccedil;ois Menon, which cited a recipe for a whipped and frozen cream called \u003Cstrong\u003E\"\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EChantilly cheese\u003Cstrong\u003E\"\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E. This recipe, unveiled by food historian Pierre Leclercq of Belgium's University of Li&egrave;ge on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rtbf.be\u002Flapremiere\"\u003ERTBF-La\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rtbf.be\u002Flapremiere\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E Premi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rtbf.be\u002Flapremiere\"\u003E&egrave;re\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2018, is linked to a Sicilian ice cream maker named Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli (1651-1727).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Garnier, Procopio opened a luxurious cafe in Paris called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.procope.com\u002F?utm_source=Google&amp;utm_medium=GMB&amp;utm_campaign=PRO&amp;y_source=1_MTE2NjUxNzMtNzE1LWxvY2F0aW9uLndlYnNpdGU=\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Procope\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; which was founded in 1686 and is now one of the city's oldest restaurants &ndash; and supplied ice cream to the then Prince of Cond&eacute;, Louis Joseph de Bourbon, at Chantilly Castle. For future King Louis XV's visit there in 1722, Procopio prepared ice cream topped with what became known as Chantilly cream.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis thick, sweet whipped cream was cultivated in the dairy and hamlet of the Prince of Cond&eacute; near Chantilly Castle, where it was first prepared and served, respectively. The dairy became known throughout Europe, and Chantilly cream was presented to important guests during magnificent receptions at the hamlet. For example, in 1754, the Duke of Croy wrote about \"beautiful cream that was eaten with the ice cream\", and in 1784, the Baroness of Oberkirch lauded in her memoirs, \"such good cream, so appetizing and so well prepared\". Chantilly cream still delights diners in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchateaudechantilly.fr\u002Fen\u002Fplan-your-visit\u002Frestaurants-and-shops\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Hameau\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (The Hamlet) restaurant on castle grounds today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If everyone would eat good Chantilly cream, the world would be better.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELocals, who refer to Chantilly cream as the \"real whipped cream\", share these sentiments of old. \"If everyone would eat good Chantilly cream, the world would be better,\" claimed chef Micha&euml;l Ejzenbaum, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vertugadin.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Vertugadin\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant in Chantilly and one of three grand masters of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chevalierfouetteur.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELa Confr&eacute;rie des Chevaliers Fouetteurs de Cr&egrave;me Chantilly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Brotherhood of Knights of Chantilly Cream Whippers).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe brotherhood was founded in 2007 by grand master Herv&eacute; Gr&eacute;bert, who recruited Ejzenbaum and Bertrand Alaime, owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fatelier.delachantilly.fr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EL'Atelier de la Chantilly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a tearoom dedicated to Chantilly cream), to help him relaunch it in 2018 after a time away. A total of 24 knights, all gastronomy professionals with proven competency in making Chantilly cream, promote and practice this art. They do so, as Gr&eacute;bert said, because this cream is \"a real treasure\" that's world famous.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChantilly cream requires three ingredients (minimum 30% fat cream, icing sugar and vanilla); certain equipment, including a wide whisk and a \u003Cem\u003Ecul de poule\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (chicken's bum) or round, stainless steel bowl; and proper whipping in three steps: aerating cream, adding sugar and vanilla, and thickening. Technically, it can only contain the three ingredients to be called Chantilly cream, but sometimes the knights add other ingredients like caramel or coffee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGr&eacute;bert and fellow knights teach would-be \"squires\" how to \"whip the chicken's bum\" by hand, as originally done for centuries, in one-hour workshops under the arches of Vatel's old kitchen at Chantilly Castle. L'Atelier de la Chantilly offers similar workshops, covering the cream's history as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We whip with the arm muscle to integrate air into fat,\" Gr&eacute;bert said. \"You multiply the starting volume of cream by 2.7 times. But you have to know when to stop. If you stop too early, it's whipped cream. If you stop too late, it's butter.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Chantilly cream is the state of the cream before getting butter,\" explained Ejzenbaum. It's ready when the bowl can be turned upside down without the cream falling out. He jokingly tells aspiring squires, \"You better succeed, otherwise you will get cream on top of your head.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhipping by hand is preferred for volumes of 30cl or less. However, larger volumes are too difficult to whip by hand, so even the knights use a mixer.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnlike ordinary whipped cream, Chantilly cream is a main element of desserts, not just a dollop on top, he added. Think strawberries and cream, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200804-the-surprising-truth-about-pavlovas-origins\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epavlova\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Ffood\u002Frecipes\u002Frum_babas_served_with_48561\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebaba au rhum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rum baba) cake. Ejzenbaum even serves the cream by itself at his restaurant: \"If the Chantilly cream is good, you don't need anything else.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGarnier summed the French heritage of Chantilly cream: \"It's not the icing on the cake [that matters most], it's the cream!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Chantilly cream recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EChantilly cream recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Herv&eacute; Gr&eacute;bert, founder and grand master, Brotherhood of Knights of Chantilly Cream Whippers\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYield: 50cl (2 cups)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EServing size: 6cl (4 tbsp)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EServes: 8\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E25cl (1 cup) chilled, liquid cream with at least 30% fat (ideally 35%)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E20g icing (powdered) sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E15-20 drops (&frac14; tsp) of vanilla extract (or specks from 1 large vanilla bean split and scraped)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPlace a medium stainless steel or glass \u003Cem\u003Ecul de poule \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ebowl in the refrigerator for at least an hour or overnight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPour the cold cream into the chilled bowl. Using a large, stainless-steel whisk, gently whip the cream several minutes until you start to see whisk marks in it. Your hand should hold the whisk like a tennis racquet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAdd the sugar and vanilla. Whisk moderately for several minutes until the cream starts to thicken and form ribbons. Taste the cream and adjust the sugar and vanilla if desired.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EBeat the cream vigorously with a firm wrist until it thickens into waves. It is sufficiently whipped when the waves hold their shape and the whisk can stand upright in the cream. Be careful not to overwhip it as it will turn it into butter!\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENotes:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIt is essential to use cold cream with a minimum of 30% fat, otherwise it cannot be properly whipped into shape. As well, the bowl must be stainless steel or glass to keep the cream cool and optimise texture. If there is not enough time to refrigerate the bowl, put ice cubes in it for 10 minutes, then discard them and dry the bowl.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List,\" a handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream-9"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-08T12:50:28Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The 'real' way to whip cream","headlineShort":"The 'real' way to whip cream","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"49.1938467","longitude":"2.4852034","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Aptly named after its place of origin, this sweet, thick whipped cream is arguably the best of its kind – the \"crème de la crème\" so to speak.","summaryShort":"The recipe lies in a magnificent castle in France","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-07T12:51:23.101887Z","entity":"article","guid":"d5852b2d-c92f-44f4-877b-620bfdc69642","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-09T13:04:45.482078Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442535},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day","_id":"64a46161a471ef0d4145995b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The traditional skillet-dish made with potato, butter and flour – and served with lakes of butter and sometimes sugar – is perfect with bacon rashers and eggs.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESt Brigid is Ireland's foodie saint. One of the nation's three patron saints and the most associated with food (particularly farming and dairying), the Irish celebrate her for the first time this year with a new public holiday on 6 February.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESt Brigid's Day itself, also known as Imbolc or &Oacute;imelg, falls on 1 February marking the beginning of spring in the ancient Celtic calendar. Associated with miraculous abundance of food and a powerful figure in Irish pre-Christian folklore, Brigid was brought under the church and proclaimed a saint.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe mixing of Celtic and Christian observances isn't unusual in Ireland. The tradition of making, sharing and eating boxty pancakes, or \u003Cem\u003Ebacsta&iacute;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a traditional potato dish cooked on St Brigid's Day is influenced by both religions, creating a celebratory association unique to its food culture. Hailing from the north-western counties of Leitrim, Cavan, Fermanagh and Mayo, the traditional skillet-dish akin to a pancake is made with potato, milk and flour &ndash; and served with lakes of butter and sometimes a scattering of sugar as a treat for children. It was a dish reserved for eating on special feast days, and Brigid's Day was celebrated with equal fervour to Christmas Day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Boxty Pancakes\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIrish folklore associated with St Brigid focused on the dawn of a new dairying season, filled with anticipation for the valuable milk and butter to come, persisting well into the mid-20th Century. There was great excitement for the day, and homemade butter made from fresh morning milk was a common practice served generously with piles of boxty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor all its intimate connection with Irish history and its people, the potato, boxty's core ingredient, is a relative newcomer. Potatoes arrived with Sir Walter Raleigh in 1589 from the Americas into the town of Youghal on the eastern shore of County Cork where he once lived; long after Christianity had taken root and elevated Brigid from high priestess of agriculture to an important saintly figurehead.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, Ireland made the potato its own, subsuming it into the national cuisine in myriad ways. Floury (or starchy) potatoes, have a particular affinity with Ireland's rich dairy culture of milk, butter, cream and buttermilk that Brigid was celebrated for, used lavishly and with relish.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EP&aacute;draic &Oacute;g Gallagher is the owner of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.boxtyhouse.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGallagher's Boxty House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E located in Temple Bar, Dublin, serving their specialty Boxty Pancakes since 1988. Hailing from Mohill in County Leitrim, &Oacute;g Gallagher remembers eating boxty for Friday tea every week.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I was reared on boxty, and there are as many recipes for it as there are houses in the parish,\" he said. \"We had it on its own; just a load of boxty for your tea and lash the butter on!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo make good boxty, you need a good floury potato. At Gallagher's Boxty House, Rooster is the spud of choice, although Navan and Maris Piper are good contenders.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Boxty is a very simple dish, just grated raw potato, flour, milk and seasoning, but it's important to extract the starch out of the raw potato,\" he said. Extracting the starch dries out the potato to give the boxty a crisp golden finish when cooked in butter. Gather it up into a clean cloth and keep twisting until all the starch has come out. \"Years ago,\" he said, \"people kept the starch for ironing shirts &ndash; nothing ever went to waste.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&Oacute;g Gallagher's Boxty Pancake recipe makes use of leftover mashed potato combined with grated potato, milk and flour that's perfect with golden bacon rashers and eggs with sunny yolks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECrisp on the outside and comforting on the inside like only potatoes, milk and butter can be, the boxty can be eaten straight from the skillet. Or made ahead, allowed to rest and reheated with even more salty butter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBrigid's powers extend to brewing and distilling, and &Oacute;g Gallagher prefers his boxty with a pint of Jack Smyth's Stout from the Boxty House's own microbrewery. But pairing the dish with Irish whiskey is an integral part of the St Brigid Day's festivities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESantina Kennedy is the food and beverage specialist at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpowerscourtdistillery.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPowerscourt Distillery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in County Wicklow, which makes Fercullen Falls Irish Whiskey, and she's passionate about the food and folklore of St Brigid.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Fercullen Falls, with its flavours of orchard fruit, malt spice and pepper, is the first whiskey distilled in County Wicklow for over 100 years,\" said Kennedy. \"It beautifully complements boxty, dissolving its crisp edge to reveal a soft yet textured centre, and meeting Ireland's other liquid gold &ndash; butter. Melting salty pools on hot boxty crust creates a delicious mouthfeel of cream and malt.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's an Irish saying: \u003Cem\u003EAn rud nach leigheasann im n&aacute; uisce beatha n&iacute;l aon leigheas air\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (What butter or whiskey do not cure, cannot be cured).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESl&aacute;inte, agus L&aacute; Fh&eacute;ile Br&iacute;de sona duit\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: (To your health, and a Happy St Brigid's day)!\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Boxty Pancakes\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBoxty Pancakes\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy P&aacute;draic &Oacute;g Gallagher\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E(makes 8)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E150g peeled raw potato\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E50g cooked mashed potato\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E120g plain flour\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E220ml whole milk\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E2g salt\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E10g butter\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPut flour, mashed potato, salt and 175ml of the milk in a blender and combine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EGrate raw potato into a clean cloth, squeezing excess water from the potatoes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAdd grated potatoes to the mash mix and incorporate with a hand whisk (not the blender). It should have a nice dropping consistency like a good batter. Add more milk if necessary.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ELeave for 30 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EHeat a pancake pan to a medium heat, add butter, allow to melt.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 6\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EDrop a ladle-full of batter to the pan and tilt so it covers the base. Cook gently for three-to-four minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 7\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETurn the pancake over and cook for two minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 8\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EThe first pancake may stick. Don't panic; dump it, wipe the pan, and start again. It happens to even the most experienced boxty makers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 9\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EServe three boxty pancakes with crispy bacon and an egg, sunny side up.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-02-03T15:51:59.419Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Recipe: Boxty pancakes and bacon for St Brigid's Day","headlineShort":"Boxty pancakes with eggs and bacon","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"53.345719","longitude":"-6.2644047","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The traditional Irish skillet-dish made with potato, butter and flour – and served with lakes of butter and sometimes sugar – is perfect with bacon rashers and eggs.","summaryShort":"It marks the beginning of spring in the ancient Celtic calendar","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-02-03T15:52:50.561344Z","entity":"article","guid":"552c325d-90de-4fe3-9b8a-cc18bc0d8b50","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day","modifiedDateTime":"2023-02-10T20:51:58.538802Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442535},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-cuisine-the-food-fit-for-royalty":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-cuisine-the-food-fit-for-royalty","_id":"64a46161a471ef323520bcce","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Whether served at grand banquets or celebratory street parties, coronation food offers a reflection of the time or a first glimpse into the values of the newly crowned monarch.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECoronation ceremonies for the monarchs of England, Britain and the United Kingdom have a history stretching back more than 1,000 years. While much has changed in that time, one thing has remained constant: food has played a part in the crowning of the new king or queen. Whether it's being served on gilt plates at grand banquets or on trestle tables at celebratory street parties, coronation food has its own fascinating story and can offer a reflection of the time or a first glimpse into the values of the newly crowned king or queen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAn extreme example of excess is the coronation banquet of King George IV. Famous for his extravagant lifestyle and racking up eyewatering debts, his coronation, held on 19 July 1821, was the most expensive in history, costing the equivalent of more than &pound;20,000,000 in today's money.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.parliament.uk\u002Fabout\u002Fliving-heritage\u002Fbuilding\u002Fpalace\u002Fwestminsterhall\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWestminster Hall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, now the oldest remaining part of the original \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.parliament.uk\u002Fabout\u002Fliving-heritage\u002Fbuilding\u002Fpalace\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHouses of Parliament\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the king and 300 of the most important guests dined under the gaze of thousands of spectators sitting on specially constructed platforms. Dining elsewhere in the palace were 1,300 other guests. French-style cuisine was served from temporary kitchens constructed to cope with the quantity of food, and the king's table alone had more than 70 dishes over three courses. In total, the guests ate 7.3 tonnes of beef, veal and lamb, more than 1,600 chickens and 8,400 eggs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough, as might be expected at an event of this scale, not everything went to plan. The division of huge numbers of people watching a sumptuous feast play out turned out to be a recipe for disaster. After the king left, the spectators descended from their stands and began to eat the leftover food and attempted to take the ornate cutlery, plates and table decorations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough coronation banquets had historically been extravagant affairs, King George IV's was the high-water mark. It was the last to be held in Westminster Hall, and William IV's coronation 10 years later didn't feature a banquet at all to economise after George IV's extravagant reign.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-cuisine-the-food-fit-for-royalty-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-cuisine-the-food-fit-for-royalty-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn contrast, away from the pomp and circumstance of royal banquets, street parties are a centuries-old way for communities to celebrate a coronation with food and drink.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the nation still suffering from austerity after the end of World War Two and with some rationing still in place, the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II on 2 June 1953 gave the people an opportunity to come together and celebrate. Thousands of street parties took place up and down the nation, and a bonus ration of one pound of sugar and a quarter of a pound of margarine was distributed over the coronation period so people could make celebratory dishes. Sandwiches with butter, tinned meat or fish would have been popular, and cakes, biscuits, ice cream, soft drinks and jellies were all specifically mentioned in Parliament as being in great demand.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-chicken-the-story-behind-the-royal-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECoronation Chicken\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a future street-party favourite, was created for an official lunch of 350 foreign representatives invited to attend Elizabeth II's coronation. The dish, made from chicken poached in water and a little white wine with a sauce containing cream, mayonnaise, red wine and curry powder, was created by Rosemary Hume, Constance Spry and the students at their cookery school, Le Cordon Bleu London.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESpry described the recipe as having a delicate and nut-like flavour and it would have been a luxury at the time due to the expense of many of the ingredients. It exploded in popularity in the 1970s and '80s, and the original recipe has since been reworked many times by celebrity chefs. It can still be found across the UK, although most commonly as a sandwich filling rather than a dish in its own right.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-cuisine-the-food-fit-for-royalty-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-cuisine-the-food-fit-for-royalty-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFood historian \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.anniegray.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDr Annie Gray\u003C\u002Fa\u003E commented that \"Coronation food reflects the tastes of the time, in that it is cooked by chefs of a time, with equipment&nbsp;of a time and for people of a particular time.\" She continued, \"Let's also not forget the audience for [coronation] feasts &ndash; up until the current&nbsp;monarch [King Charles III], very few people&nbsp;other than the invited guests would&nbsp;have known what was on the menu. This coronation is much more overtly inclusive and therefore carries with it a real opportunity for the new monarch&nbsp;to show his credentials and ethos in the food.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStreet parties are set to feature in the Coronation of King Charles III and Queen Camilla on 6 May 2023, with the community party planning scheme \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.edenprojectcommunities.com\u002Fthe-big-lunch\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Big Lunch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E providing a Coronation party planning pack as part of the official celebrations. The official Coronation website also provides several&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcoronation.gov.uk\u002Ftoolkit\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecipes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as inspiration for Coronation Big Lunches, street parties and other celebrations. These include Ken Hom's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-ken-homs-coronation-asian-style-roast-rack-of-lamb\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECoronation Roast Rack of Lamb with Asian-style Marinade\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Nadiya Hussain's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-nadiya-hussains-coronation-aubergine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECoronation Aubergine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Gregg Wallace's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-gregg-wallaces-prawn-tacos-with-pineapple-salsa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPrawn Tacos with Pineapple Salsa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Adam Handling's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-adam-handlings-coronation-strawberry-and-ginger-trifle\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStrawberry and Ginger Trifle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;Martha Collison's Coronation Crown Scones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKing Charles has been outspoken about his support for organic British food, and in the selected dishes, there's a nod to traditionalism with a trifle, a vegetarian choice with a Coronation Chicken-inspired sauce in Hussain's aubergine recipe, and Hom's fusion of English and Asian flavours suggests a celebration of the evolution of British food. The official \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-royal-chef-mark-flanagans-coronation-quiche\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECoronation Quiche recipe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for King Charles III's crowning, by Royal Chef Mark Flanagan, contains spinach, broad beans and tarragon, which is likely a nod to his sustainable agriculture commitment and his purported \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.townandcountrymag.com\u002Fleisure\u002Farts-and-culture\u002Fa41997928\u002Fprince-charles-eggs\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaffinity for eggs\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and cheese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESpeaking about being invited to contribute a recipe for the official celebrations, chef and restauranteur \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.adamhandling.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAdam Handling\u003C\u002Fa\u003E said, \"It's a real honour to have created a recipe for the Coronation; it's an iconic moment in our history and I hope lots of people will be celebrating with this recipe.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-cuisine-the-food-fit-for-royalty-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-cuisine-the-food-fit-for-royalty-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKen Hom OBE, whose BBC series \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fiplayer\u002Fepisodes\u002Fp05rqpzx\u002Fken-homs-chinese-cookery\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKen Hom's Chinese Cookery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was instrumental in showing the British how to cook Asian food, spoke about what his recipe represents, saying, \"I feel and think my recipe reflects the deep profound changes in British food culture. Former exotic ingredients such as soy sauce are now part of the British pantry. I remember when I worked on my first BBC series in the early '80s, I always added a caveat, if you can't find the authentic Chinese ingredient, you can substitute this.&nbsp;Of course, this is no longer the case. British food culture has embraced the world and it has become enriched. British food is modern world food.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECommenting on the recipes, Gray said, \"I admire [the recipe]&nbsp;choices &ndash; very carefully chosen in terms of both the food and the named chefs ostensibly behind them&hellip; a vegetarian dish, a trifle which we know is popular&nbsp;based on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fmediacentre\u002Fmediapacks\u002Fjubilee-pudding-70-years-in-the-baking-judges\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJubilee pudding competition\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and lamb which is always seen as celebratory. Regional links, global links, seasonal links &ndash; it's all there and is a good reflection of Charles III's stated food ethics.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYou can find out more about each of the Coronation recipes below, including tips on making them:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECoronation recipes:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-royal-chef-mark-flanagans-coronation-quiche\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChef Mark Flanagan's Coronation quiche\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-nadiya-hussains-coronation-aubergine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENadiya Hussain's Coronation aubergine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-ken-homs-coronation-asian-style-roast-rack-of-lamb\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKen Hom's Coronation roast rack of lamb\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-adam-handlings-coronation-strawberry-and-ginger-trifle\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAdam Handling's Coronation trifle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-gregg-wallaces-prawn-tacos-with-pineapple-salsa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGregg Wallace's prawn tacos with pineapple salsa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"20230430-coronation-chicken-the-story-behind-the-royal-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Condon Bleu London's coronation chicken\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230503-marthas-collisons-coronation-crown-scones\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMartha Collison's Coronation crown scones\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230427-violet-bakerys-new-cookbook-love-is-a-pink-cake\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClaire Ptak's brown sugar Victoria Sponge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-cuisine-the-food-fit-for-royalty-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-01T15:19:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Coronation dishes: The food fit for royalty","headlineShort":"The tasty history of coronation food","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Whether served at grand banquets or celebratory street parties, coronation food offers a reflection of the time or a first glimpse into the values of the newly crowned monarch.","summaryShort":"It has a history stretching back more than 1,000 years","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-30T15:20:41.126195Z","entity":"article","guid":"18b905b5-b397-417b-988c-268d61e2a25a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-cuisine-the-food-fit-for-royalty","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-05T23:00:29.014569Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-cuisine-the-food-fit-for-royalty","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442535},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230728-fraughan-fool-irelands-whipped-cream-and-local-berry-treat":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230728-fraughan-fool-irelands-whipped-cream-and-local-berry-treat","_id":"64c3cb91a471ef2ea30cc22d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkate-ryan"],"bodyIntro":"Every August, Ireland's sweet and juicy blueberry-like fraughans are harvested and made into a rippled whipped cream and berry dessert.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlong hedgerows and up Ireland's boggy hillsides grow small, wild berries, sweetened by summer sun and heralding the beginning of harvest. These purple berries are known as fraughans, from the Irish \u003Cem\u003Efraoch&aacute;n\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Other names include herts (hurts or hursts), bilberry, whortleberry, whimberry or cowberry. They are the wild cousin to the cultivated blueberry, with an intense sweetness and juiciness that belies their diminutive size.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETheir peak ripeness coincides with harvest-time celebrations, such as hay making, an important time of feasting and festivals throughout Ireland. On the first Sunday in August, it's customary for local people to descend upon places where fraughans flourish to pick and gorge on as many as they can. This day is known as Fraughan Sunday, also Garland Sunday, and coincides with the old Celtic festival of Lughnasa\u003Cem\u003E,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E one of four important \"cross-quarter days\" that occur at the midpoint between each solstice and equinox.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Fraughan Lemon and Thyme Fool recipe\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFraughan Sunday used to be celebrated with game playing, courting and eating the wild fraughans growing high up in the mountains. Nowadays, fraughan picking, as well as deciding the best way to eat them all, is the sole focus of the day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhere fraughans grow, cultivated blueberries seem to flourish best. Despite this, only two commercial blueberry farms operate on the island of Ireland and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fderryduff.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDerry Duff Farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is one of them. Perched high above the Bantry peninsula in West Cork, the farm is owned and run by Dr Steve Collins and his wife Claire, who bought the land 18 years ago and established an organic blueberry farm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Collins', originally from the UK, were unaware of the Irish traditions of Fraughan Sunday or that fraughans were growing in secluded spots on the edge of Derry Duff Farm. Their decision to grow blueberries was based purely on the fact that, at high altitude and with acidic soil, very little else besides blueberries could be grown as a viable crop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230728-fraughan-fool-irelands-whipped-cream-and-local-berry-treat-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fsw174"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230728-fraughan-fool-irelands-whipped-cream-and-local-berry-treat-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I spent a lot of my holidays in County Kerry, but never came across fraughans over there,\" said Claire. \"I knew nothing until we came here, then, when we started to grow blueberries, people would refer to them. A lot of people have said they remember picking wild fraughans. A friend, a keen gardener, was walking the farm one day and spotted some fraughan bushes growing close to the blueberry fields, nestled into one of the old ancient walls.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Collins' nearest neighbour, Peggy Cronin, lives on her own farm bordering Derry Duff. In her mid-70s now, she was born and raised in this isolated pocket of West Cork and remembers a much simpler way of life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"She told us stories of walking to school over the mountains, coming home and harvesting vegetables or digging potatoes for dinner, and sitting to do homework by candlelight &ndash; it was a totally different time,\" said Claire. Cronin fondly remembers picking the fraughans around hay harvesting time. \"As children, they'd sneak off with a basin and fill it with berries. It was a great treat,\" said Claire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFew berries ever made it back to the house, as the temptation to eat as you picked was too great. Any berries that did make it back were turned into a simple treat with cream and sugar. Many who enjoy foraging for fraughans still like to eat them in this way, as a once-a-year treat during their peak season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESadly, there are far fewer fraughan bushes today as hedgerows are removed to make room for more grazing space. It's illegal to clear more than 500m of hedgerows in Ireland without oversight by the Department of Agriculture, Food and the Marine, but significant damage has been done nonetheless, and the hedgerows that remain are not always healthy ecosystems.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a native shrub, fraughans make perfect hedgerow plants, especially in acidic soil areas where not much else can thrive. Their dense structure creates a perfect habitat for birds, insects and small mammals; the flowers provide fodder for bees; and its fruit is food for wild birds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs hedgerows are damaged or cleared away, the prospect of the fraughan harvest diminishes with each passing year. The annual festival of Fraughan Sunday is observed in very few places today, and Lughnasa's popularity relies on resurgent interest in old Celtic cross-quarter day festivals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack on Derry Duff Farm, the first of 13 varieties of blueberries are ready to crop in the second half of July, with harvest continuing through to October. By contrast, the short fruiting season for fraughans comes and goes in four short weeks &ndash; if the birds don't get there first, of course.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230728-fraughan-fool-irelands-whipped-cream-and-local-berry-treat-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fsw1jp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230728-fraughan-fool-irelands-whipped-cream-and-local-berry-treat-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Fraughan Lemon and Thyme Fool recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E Fraughan, Lemon and Thyme Fool recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Claire Collins (and Kate Ryan)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EServes 4\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis recipe is based on the simple treat of fraughans, cream and sugar for an easy-to-make dessert. It's perfect with blueberries as well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230728-fraughan-fool-irelands-whipped-cream-and-local-berry-treat-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E150g (a little over 5oz) fraughans or blueberries, plus more for garnish\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp white sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ejuice of half a lemon, plus zest for garnishing\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 large thyme sprigs, plus leaves for garnishing\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E250ml (8&frac12;oz) double cream\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230728-fraughan-fool-irelands-whipped-cream-and-local-berry-treat-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPut the fraughans or blueberries in a medium saucepan. Add the sugar, lemon juice and thyme sprigs. Cook over low heat for 5-10 minutes until the berries start to break down and thicken but retain some of their shape. Remove the thyme sprigs and set the compote aside to cool.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a medium bowl, whip the cream until it is thick enough to hold its shape when the compote is stirred in; if it's too soft it will collapse. Gently fold half of the cooled compote into the whipped cream to ripple through.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ESpoon the whipped berry cream into individual servings and drizzle over more compote. Garnish with lemon zest, thyme leaves and extra berries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230728-fraughan-fool-irelands-whipped-cream-and-local-berry-treat-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230728-fraughan-fool-irelands-whipped-cream-and-local-berry-treat-7"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-29T14:05:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Fraughan fool: Ireland's whipped cream and local berry treat","headlineShort":"Fraughan fool: a berry and cream treat","image":["p0fsw1p4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.7750","longitude":"-9.41622","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fsw1p4"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230407-the-real-way-to-whip-cream","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230203-recipe-boxty-pancakes-and-bacon-for-st-brigids-day","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-coronation-cuisine-the-food-fit-for-royalty"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Every August, Ireland's sweet and juicy blueberry-like fraughans are harvested and made into a rippled whipped cream and berry dessert.","summaryShort":"Fresh berries folded with whipped cream make this simple dessert","tag":["tag\u002Frecipe","tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-28T14:06:57.198441Z","entity":"article","guid":"c3c5de5b-a472-45d5-b790-0a7e1a7f62cb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230728-fraughan-fool-irelands-whipped-cream-and-local-berry-treat","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-08T18:27:05.546482Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230728-fraughan-fool-irelands-whipped-cream-and-local-berry-treat","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fireland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_ireland_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442534},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks","_id":"64ac95f0a471ef45b65f5305","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"From walks through history to adventures in lost worlds, a new book – with spectacular imagery – showcases more than 50 of the world's best hiking routes. Here are five favourites.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvery journey starts with one small step, to paraphrase Chinese philosopher Lao Tzu. But some journeys contain more steps than others.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The most remarkable treks take us to other worlds &ndash; places unfamiliar to us,\" said author and global trekker Colin Salter, who discovered the pleasures of hiking as a young man, escaping from the confines of boarding school to explore Scottish mountains with friends. \"They're a way to discover new climates, new terrain, new altitudes and new cultures. They're physical challenges with sensory rewards &ndash; wildlife, botany, scenic grandeur, new music, old stories and shared experiences with fellow travellers on life's footpath.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESalter has compiled more than 50 of the world's best hiking routes in his new book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pavilionbooks.com\u002Fproducts\u002Fremarkable-treks-colin-salter-9781911670254\u002F\"\u003ERemarkable Treks: Plan the Walking Trip of a Lifetime on the World's Most Spectacular Trails\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. From the Inca Trail (Peru) to the John Muir Trail (US), the West Highland Way (Scotland) to the Milford Track (New Zealand), famous hiking routes inspire travellers to test their mettle and experience some of the most astounding natural landscapes on the planet, while lesser-known trails offer a chance to discover hidden corners of countries and cultures. Here, Salter chooses five of his favourites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Hiker on Iceland's 55km Laugavegur Trail","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E1) The Laugavegur Trail, Iceland \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELength: 55km\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EDuration: 3-4 days\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Start: Landmannalaugur\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Finish: Thórsmörk\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fi.is\u002Fen\u002Fhiking-trails\u002Ftrails\u002Flaugavegur\"\u003ELaugavegur Trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a tough-but-rewarding introduction to the Land of Ice and Fire's wild interior. The starting point, Landmannalaugur (180km from Reykjavik), has hot rivers to bathe in. But the trek isn't always so relaxing, taking in a wilderness of black desert, mirror-like lakes, rushing waterfalls, craggy canyons and the mountain ridges of Thórsmörk (Thor's Wood).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Iceland's oldest geology is younger than Britain's youngest,\" said Salter. \"To walk through this raw landscape, which is still being created and shaped by fire and ice, is to get some sense of how worlds are made.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those not yet sated at Thórsmörk, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ficelandtravelguide.is\u002Ftours\u002Ffimmvorduhals-hike\u002F\"\u003EFimmv&ouml;r&eth;uh&aacute;ls trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E leads an additional 26km south to Skógafoss waterfall and the coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Mount Roraima, Venezuela surrounded by clouds","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E2) Mount Roraima, Venezuela \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELength: 64km\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EDuration: 6 days\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Start\u002FFinish: Paraitepuy\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIconic Mount Roraima is the highest peak in the Pakaraima chain of eastern Venezuela's tabletop mountains. According to the Indigenous Pemon&nbsp;and Kapon&nbsp;cultures' folklore, the 15km-long and 5km-wide massif is the stump of a giant tree that once provided all the fruit and vegetables for the world. Here, water cascades from the towering cliffs into rainforests that contain plants and animals found nowhere else on Earth, including the Roraima bush toad.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The sheer sides and flat summit of Mount Roraima are unlike anywhere else on the planet,\" said Salter. \"This triangular ship of rock carries a lost world on its deck.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe trailhead is around 90km from Santa Elena&nbsp;de Uair&eacute;n, from where travellers can organise guided expeditions. The ascent can be done in two or three days, but Salter recommends taking six to nine days to explore the high plateau, where hikers will find bathing pools at \"the Jacuzzis\", the Crystal Valley that's filled with quartz, and Maverick's Rock, Roraima's highest point (2,810m), plus the concrete marker where three countries &ndash; Venezuela, Guyana and Brazil &ndash; meet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Hikers on bridge on Gokyo Lakes trek, Nepal","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E3) Gokyo Lakes and Cho La, Nepal \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELength: 130km\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EDuration: 17 days\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Start\u002FFinish: Lukla\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Gokyo Lakes trek is a cracker,\" said Salter. \"It's a trail to the furthest edges of human habitation, across glaciers, beneath the world's highest peaks, in a landscape of profound spirituality.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EClimbing Mount Everest might be beyond the legs, lungs and wallets of many travellers, but this trek that takes in Everest Base Camp is an opportunity to hike through majestic Himalayan mountainscapes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStarting from Lukla (2,860m), a 40-minute flight from Kathmandu, the route hits maximum altitudes of 5,545m. Hikers will find suspension bridges, river valleys, waterfalls, rhododendron forests, remote villages, Buddhist monasteries and colourful prayer flags as they stay in guesthouses along the way. The trail enters \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F120\u002F\"\u003ESagarmatha National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a World Heritage Site that contains the Gokyo Lakes &ndash; 19 pristine lakes regarded as holy by Buddhists and Hindus &ndash; and Everest itself. The Cho La pass (5,420m) is renowned as one of the trek's toughest sections.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"The Pembrokeshire Coast Path at night","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E4) The Pembrokeshire Coast Path, Wales \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELength: 186 miles\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EDuration: 12-15 days\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Start: Amroth\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Finish: St Dogmaels\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Pembrokeshire Coast Path (PCP) opened in 1970, with almost the entire length of the trail falling within \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pembrokeshirecoast.wales\u002F\"\u003EPembrokeshire&nbsp;Coast&nbsp;National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in south-west Wales.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost walkers start at Amroth, to the south, so the route begins gently and finishes with the more demanding sections in the north, staying at B&amp;Bs, hotels, pubs or campsites along the way.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHighlights of this wild, rugged coast include \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.saundersfootharbour.co.uk\u002F\"\u003ESaundersfoot harbour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpembrokecastle.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EPembroke Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.trinityhouse.co.uk\u002Flighthouses-and-lightvessels\u002Fstrumble-head-lighthouse\"\u003EStrumble Head Lighthouse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and 13th-Century \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pembrokeshirecoast.wales\u002Fabout-the-national-park\u002Fculture-and-heritage\u002Fland-of-legends\u002Fst-govans-chapel\u002F\"\u003ESt Govan's Chapel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with incredible natural beauty in the likes of Barafundle Beach (one of 58 beaches along the route).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Roman, Viking and Norman invasions left their mark on this coast, as have ordinary people's efforts to make a living from the sea,\" said Salter. \"Pembrokeshire has castles, harbours and beaches galore.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe PCP ends at the village of St Dogmaels. But if you want to keep walking, the PCP is part of the 870-mile-long Wales Coast Path.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Path on the Pacific Crest Trail","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E5) The Pacific Crest Trail, US and Canada \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELength: 2,653 miles\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EDuration: 5 months\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Start: Campo, California\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Finish: Manning Park, British Columbia\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA true epic, the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) is the second-longest trail in the US (after the coast-to-coast American Discovery Trail). It runs between the country's southern and northern borders, from Mexico to Canada, passing through California, Oregon and Washington along the mountain ridges of the Sierra Nevada and the Cascades, and up across the border into Canada.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The crest that divides America's river systems into east and west also ties together the riches of its many landscapes, like jewels on a bootlace,\" said Salter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe terrain is fantastically diverse, from desert to snowy mountains, sandstone outcrops to deep blue lakes, pine forests to volcanoes. The PCT also cuts through six national parks, including Yosemite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESuch a massive undertaking requires careful preparation and planning. The Pacific Crest Trail Association provides a compulsory (free) permit, with hikers required to declare a start date.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-11T10:35:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"In Pictures: Five of the world's most remarkable treks","headlineShort":"The world's best long-distance hikes","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hiker on the Pennine Way, UK","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"63.9830","longitude":"-19.0670","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Hiker on Iceland's 55km Laugavegur Trail","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From walks through history to adventures in lost worlds, a new book – with spectacular imagery – showcases more than 50 of the world's best hiking routes. Here are five favourites.","summaryShort":"A new book showcases more than 50 of the world's best hiking routes","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-10T23:35:59.785543Z","entity":"article","guid":"963b4573-142e-481c-98e9-3cd1e498940e","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks","modifiedDateTime":"2023-07-20T00:50:12.133025Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442535},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost","_id":"64a46161a471ef0d4279367d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"From the free city rooftop The Garden at 120 to the soaring IFS Cloud Cable Car, here are eight of the best viewpoints that most tourists wouldn't know to visit.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEndlessly reproduced on postcards, t-shirts and mugs, the London skyline is an attraction in its own right. Covering 607 square miles and 2,000 years of history, with dozens of iconic landmarks, the city's sprawl is mesmerising. And no visit is complete without scaling one of its many vantage points to admire it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile attractions like the Shard and the London Eye offer fabulous perspectives, they're always busy and ticket prices are steep. But with a little insider knowledge, you can save your pounds and bag your skyline photos without the crowds. From rooftop bars with magnificent views to lesser-known historical monuments to under-the-radar public spaces, here are eight of the best viewpoints that most tourists wouldn't know to visit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEveryone wants their holiday images to include a dramatic sunset or bluebird skies, but sadly the British climate doesn't always oblige. Nevertheless, all these places offer memorable London vistas, whatever the weather.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E1. Parliament Hill \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELondon is mostly flat, but if you know where to look there are a few hills that provide natural (and free) vantage points offering city views with a side order of fresh air.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EA good route is to get off the Tube at Hampstead station, walk through the park to the viewpoint and then down the other side to rejoin the Tube at Kentish Town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most central is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cityoflondon.gov.uk\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fgreen-spaces\u002Fhampstead-heath\u002Fwhere-to-go-at-hampstead-heath\u002Fparliament-hill-viewpoint\"\u003EParliament Hill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Hampstead Heath &ndash; at 98m, this is one of London's highest natural viewpoints. From here, on a clear day, you can sit on the park bench that featured in movies including Run Fatboy Run and Notes on a Scandal, and see all the way to St Paul's Cathedral, the Houses of Parliament, the Gherkin and the Shard. As you admire the views, you'll be in good company; Romantic poets including Coleridge, Shelley and Keats all spent time up here, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFormerly known as Traitor's Hill, legend says the mound is where the 1605 Gunpowder Plot conspirators came to watch the planned explosion of Parliament (they failed, of course). The current name is thought to have been adopted during the 17th-Century Civil War when the hill became a defence post for troops loyal to Parliament. Today you'll find only dog-walkers, joggers and nature-lovers who come to enjoy this little piece of countryside in the heart of London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: free \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Website: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cityoflondon.gov.uk\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fgreen-spaces\u002Fhampstead-heath\u002Fwhere-to-go-at-hampstead-heath\u002Fparliament-hill-viewpoint\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.cityoflondon.gov.uk\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fgreen-spaces\u002Fhampstead-heath\u002Fwhere-to-go-at-hampstead-heath\u002Fparliament-hill-viewpoint\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: Hampstead\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: Parliament Hill, Hampstead Heath, London, NW5 1QR\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: + 44 (0) 20 7332 3322\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcolhampsteadheath\u002F\"\u003E@colhampsteadheath\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E2. The Garden Museum Tower \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf you exit left out of Westminster station, battle your way over the bridge (dodging the hordes of selfie-taking tourists) and then turn right, past the view of Big Ben that's ubiquitous on Instagram, and walk along the south side of the Thames, you'll come to a medieval church.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EEntry to the museum costs &pound;16, but you can buy a tower-only ticket for just &pound;4.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis small structure, with its irregular stone walls, arched windows and crenellated tower, is the old church of St-Mary-at-Lambeth. After falling into disrepair in the '70s, it was scheduled for demolition until it was rescued and turned into the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FGarden+Museum\u002F@51.4949654,-0.1227665,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x487604c019ce4005:0x68b50f18a38b02a1!8m2!3d51.4949621!4d-0.1201916!16zL20vMDUzX2Nt\"\u003EGarden Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The small exhibition space is dedicated to the British love of gardens in honour of 17th-Century gardener John Tradescant, who is buried in the churchyard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile you might be interested in British garden design, it's the 14th-Century tower that's the main attraction for photographers. Climb the 131 steps of the claustrophobically narrow spiral staircase and you'll emerge onto one of the finest riverside viewpoints in the city &ndash; with views across to the Palace of Westminster on the right, downriver to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210509-londons-centre-of-intrigue-and-scandal\"\u003EVauxhall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the left and behind you, the skyscrapers of Canary Wharf. All of which can be yours for the price of a supermarket sandwich and without anyone walking through your shot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: Adult &pound;16, or Tower only &pound;4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgardenmuseum.org.uk\u002F\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fgardenmuseum.org.uk\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: Lambeth\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 5 Lambeth Palace Road, London SE1 7LB\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 (0) 20 7401 8865\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fgardenmuseum\u002F\"\u003E@gardenmuseum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E3. The IFS Cloud Cable Car\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf you want to soar over London in a glass pod, the obvious place to go is the London Eye. But a cheaper and crowd-free alternative is to ride the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftfl.gov.uk\u002Fmodes\u002Flondon-cable-car\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FLondon+IFS+Cloud+Cable+Car\u002F@51.499708,0.0032698,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x47d8a985cc330569:0xd4dc81b5e72dafeb!8m2!3d51.4997048!4d0.0081407!16s%2Fg%2F11tfxt2csg\"\u003EIFS Cloud Cable Car\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (until recently known as the Emirates Air Line).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EYou can use your Oyster or contactless card to pay as you go.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBuilt in 2012 for the London Olympics, the Cable Car ferries passengers between Greenwich Peninsula, home of the ExCel centre and the O2 music venue, and Royal Docks on the north side of the river. The journey takes 10 minutes and rises to a height of 90m &ndash; the highest views directly over the Thames &ndash; giving you a fantastic aerial vantage point from which to admire Docklands, Canary Wharf and, of course, the river itself as it snakes through the capital.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe views are impressive at any time, but the Cable Car stays open late, so you can even enjoy magnificent sunsets from the west-facing side or admire the twinkling city lights after dark. Use it to travel from one side of the river to the other, or buy a round trip and enjoy the experience twice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than 15 million journeys have been made on the London Cable Car, and everyone is offered their own cabin &ndash; an initiative that was introduced during the pandemic and continues due to its popularity. You don't get that on the London Eye.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: &pound;6 one-way\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftfl.gov.uk\u002Fmodes\u002Flondon-cable-car\u002F\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Ftfl.gov.uk\u002Fmodes\u002Flondon-cable-car\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Neighbourhood: Royal Docks\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Address: IFS Cloud Cable Car Terminal, Edmund Halley Way, London SE10 0FR\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Phone number: + 44 (0) 343 222 1234\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Ftransportforlondon\u002F\"\u003E@transportforlondon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E4. Seabird, Southwark\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELondon has no shortage of rooftop venues offering knockout cityscape views, so it can be hard to pick just one or two. But for location, angles and a great experience, it doesn't get much better than \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthehoxton.com\u002Flondon\u002Fsouthwark\u002Fseabird-restaurant\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FSeabird\u002F@51.50567,-0.1073501,17z\u002Fdata=!3m2!4b1!5s0x487604b6e8b2435f:0xa43709ec9c025b89!4m6!3m5!1s0x48760525060f4311:0x312a91d49a936adb!8m2!3d51.5056667!4d-0.1047752!16s%2Fg%2F11h5l75y0l\"\u003ESeabird\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, on the 14th floor of the Hoxton hotel in Southwark.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EA great time to visit is between 15:00-17:00 on weekdays, when you can tuck into &pound;2 oysters and &pound;7 martinis along with the view.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECompleted in September 2019 and costing &pound;55 million, the building sits on a narrow plot on busy Blackfriars Road; a rectilinear grid of square windows crowned by an elongated roof space. Here's where you'll find Seabird, a Southern European seafood restaurant that claims to offer London's longest oyster menu. Inside, the atmosphere is warm, with peach-toned lighting, a marble bar with the day's fresh oyster selection chilling on ice and full-height windows looking out onto the garden terrace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is where you should head, ordering a beer or coffee on your way through. With wicker chairs, leafy pot plants and chest-height glass panels giving the place a conservatory feel, Seabird's wraparound patio and unique location give it obstruction-free views on three sides. From here you can look directly north towards the river at Blackfriars, west towards Westminster and the Houses of Parliament, or east to photograph the Shard, Canary Wharf and the tangle of train lines going into Blackfriars station.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: Buy a drink: draught beer costs &pound;6.50 or small glass of wine is &pound;9; a portion of olives costs &pound;5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthehoxton.com\u002Flondon\u002Fsouthwark\u002Fseabird-restaurant\u002F\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fthehoxton.com\u002Flondon\u002Fsouthwark\u002Fseabird-restaurant\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: Southwark\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 40 Blackfriars Road, London, SE1 8NY\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 (0) 207 903 3000\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fseabirdlondon\u002F\"\u003E@seabirdlondon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E5. The Monument \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1666, the Great Fire of London started in a bakery in Pudding Lane. Over four days it gutted the medieval city centre, including the original St Paul's Cathedral and more than 13,000 homes. Five years later, in 1671, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FThe+Monument\u002F@51.5101206,-0.0887881,17z\u002Fdata=!3m2!4b1!5s0x47d8a860a1c13fa7:0xda73d20c50b81340!4m6!3m5!1s0x48760353dc103d0f:0xb45b943f7e064b75!8m2!3d51.5101173!4d-0.0862132!16s%2Fg%2F1hf4cpr1k\"\u003Ethe Monument\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was built as part of the extensive reconstruction work to commemorate this terrible event that transformed the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EFor another historic London viewpoint experience, buy the combined Monument and Tower Bridge Experience ticket and save 20%.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Monument stands 62m tall in a small square 62m west of the spot where the fire started. It's built of the same white-grey Portland Stone used in many of London's most famous landmarks, including St Paul's Cathedral and Buckingham Palace, and is capped with a flaming golden orb and decorated with carvings of dragons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen it was built, the column had a dual purpose. As well as a memorial, it served as a telescope controlled from an underground laboratory. Today, the secret basement is closed, and the main attraction is not below, but above. A spiral staircase with 311 steps takes you to a viewing platform at 49m above ground level, from where you can enjoy magnificent 360-degree views over the river and across the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's no glass here to cause annoying reflections, but there is a fine gauge net to prevent you dropping anything over the side. This is frustrating for anyone with a DSLR camera but photographers using their phones should have no problem.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: Adult &pound;5.80\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.themonument.org.uk\u002F\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.themonument.org.uk\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Neighbourhood: Monument\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Address: Fish St Hill, London EC3R 8AH\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Phone number: +44 (0) 20 7403 3761\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fvisitthemonument\u002F\"\u003E@visitthemonument\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E6. Bōkan, Canary Wharf\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbokanlondon.co.uk\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FBOKAN+37\u002F@51.5012027,-0.025962,17z\u002Fdata=!3m2!4b1!5s0x487602b8832e245d:0xcb267312d3cac769!4m6!3m5!1s0x487602b89cd79cbb:0x70273837b83ea44!8m2!3d51.5011994!4d-0.0233871!16s%2Fg%2F11csrx1dn8\"\u003EBōkan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; a Modern European restaurant, bar and roof terrace &ndash;&shy; takes up the top three floors (37, 38 and 39, respectively) of the Novotel Hotel in Canary Wharf, which at 127m is the tallest Novotel in the world. Completed in 2016 and costing &pound;149 million, it's a shiny glass skyscraper in a district packed with shiny glass skyscrapers, so you probably wouldn't have any reason to go there if it weren't for its crowning glory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EDon't forget to check out the view from the loos &ndash; possibly one of the most dizzying handwashing experiences in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStep out of the lift on the 38th floor, and you'll discover a chic bar, all industrial warehouse-inspired decor, with floor-to-ceiling windows, exposed brick- and pipe-work, copper fixtures and fittings, and unvarnished wooden floors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe main attraction, however, is up a wooden staircase on floor 39: the roof terrace. This glass-walled, part-covered space is furnished with benches and bar stools, from where you can enjoy an almost 360-degree panorama, with the serpentine bends of the river winding away in both directions, and views of almost the entire city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf course, London's skyline is ever-changing, and Bokan has already lost a portion of its epic vista to another skyscraper going up right next door, which partially blocks the view towards Greenwich. Don't worry though, the other 340 degrees are still more than enough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: Free but you'll need to buy a drink. Soft drinks or tea are &pound;3.50\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbokanlondon.co.uk\u002Fbar\u002F\"\u003Ehttp:\u002F\u002Fbokanlondon.co.uk\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Neighbourhood: Canary Wharf\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Address: Floor 37-39, 40 Marsh Wall, London E14 9TP\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Phone number: +44 (0) 20 3530 0550\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbokan_bar\u002F\"\u003E@bokan_bar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E7. Greenwich Park Observatory\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a city as large and diverse as London, anywhere claiming to have the best of anything should usually be taken with a pinch of salt. But when Greenwich Park touts the view from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FRoyal+Observatory+Greenwich\u002F@51.4768563,-0.0030751,17z\u002Fdata=!3m2!4b1!5s0x48760281de14a279:0x1dd1c7f0c8af5843!4m6!3m5!1s0x47d8a82a8ca9dca7:0x31abb25f451c8402!8m2!3d51.476853!4d-0.0005002!16zL20vMGMwMDU\"\u003EObservatory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as \"the best natural view of the city\", well, they're not wrong.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EFor an alternative view, follow the path downhill to the right to One Tree Hill, which is less well-known and not as crowded.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-27"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGreenwich Observatory sits on a hill in the middle of the park, but you don't need to go inside to enjoy its most celebrated attraction. Directly in front of the entrance there's a statue of General James Wolfe, an 18th-Century British Army officer, and in front of him, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rmg.co.uk\u002Froyal-observatory\u002Fattractions\u002Fenjoy-best-view-london\"\u003Ea viewing platform\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offering sweeping vistas across the neatly manicured lawns towards the Unesco World Heritage Site of Maritime Greenwich.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETake in the gleaming white colonnades and gold-capped twin domes of the Old Royal Naval College, the glass roof of the National Maritime Museum, and the triple masts of the 19th-Century sailing ship Cutty Sark.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond, you can also see the river, clustered with favourites including St Paul's Cathedral, the Gherkin, Canary Wharf and the Shard. After you've taken your fill of photos, head inside the Observatory to stand on the Prime Meridien line, admire one of the UK's largest telescopes or get a live action close-up of that view in the camera obscura.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: Free (entry to the Observatory costs &pound;16 but you don't need to go inside to admire the view)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rmg.co.uk\u002Froyal-observatory\u002Fattractions\u002Fenjoy-best-view-london\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.rmg.co.uk\u002Froyal-observatory\u002Fattractions\u002Fenjoy-best-view-london\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: Greenwich\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: Blackheath Ave, London SE10 8XJ\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 (0)20 8312 6608\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Froyalmuseumsgreenwich\u002F\"\u003E@royalmuseumsgreenwich\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-28"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-29"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E8. The Garden at 120\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot to be confused with the more famous \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fskygarden.london\u002F\"\u003ESky Garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E just around the corner, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FThe+Garden+at+120\u002F@51.5121735,-0.0835124,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x4876034d75affdb7:0x47db8d817eff7735!8m2!3d51.5121702!4d-0.0809375!16s%2Fg%2F11h04nxvm3\"\u003EThe Garden at 120\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a little-known city rooftop where you can soak up London's dramatic city views with no booking required.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-30"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EAward-winning restaurant 14 Hills, one floor below, offers excellent deli sandwiches and cakes, or a full &agrave;-la-carte menu, to refuel after your visit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-31"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe walk-in queue starts in a covered courtyard, where a ceiling screen playing calming footage of treetops on a sunny day makes you feel like you're already outside in nature. After passing through the security scanners, dedicated lifts carry you up to the 15th floor, where you step out into the City of London's largest public rooftop space.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe glass walls reach above head height, so on a sunny day you'll have to deal with reflections, but they also allow you to enjoy uninterrupted vistas of the city in all four directions. Thanks to its central location, The Garden at 120 gives you an up-close perspective on icons including the Gherkin and the Walkie Talkie; you can also look down on Tower Bridge, across to Canary Wharf and even peer into nearby offices.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAround you, patio walkways cross between flowerbeds containing bedding plants and fruit trees, while steel pergolas support climbing wisteria that provides a gorgeous wash of purple in spring. There's also a 200ft-long water feature, plenty of seating and a coffee hut for a relaxing pitstop high above London's busy streets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: free\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thegardenat120.com\u002F\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.thegardenat120.com\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: City of London\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 120 Fenchurch Street, London, EC3M 5BA\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 (0) 20 7374 4127\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fthegardenat120\u002F\"\u003E@thegardenat120\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-32"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"IFrame","iFrameCustomHtml":"\u003Ciframe src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fd\u002Fu\u002F0\u002Fembed?mid=1B8FbWA1TitF4XH3B5pwiGGj03uvNlLo&ehbc=2E312F\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E","iFrameType":"customEmbedded","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-33"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E(Bella Falk moved to London 20 years ago to study journalism and never left. Now she's a travel photographer, documentary director, writer and keen explorer of the city's less-touristy places.) \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-34"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-26T10:12:08Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Eight of the best views in London that are free or low-cost","headlineShort":"Eight of the best views in London","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.5072","longitude":"-0.1276","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From the free city rooftop The Garden at 120 to the soaring IFS Cloud Cable Car, here are eight of the best viewpoints that most tourists wouldn't know to visit.","summaryShort":"Get ready for the Coronation with London's best free or low-cost viewpoints","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-25T23:12:53.915446Z","entity":"article","guid":"e40e926e-cf02-44f2-89e4-174778f0d81c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-03T02:17:58.397651Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442536},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190703-bolivias-surreal-rainbow-landscape":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190703-bolivias-surreal-rainbow-landscape","_id":"64a46159a471ef2ea255040c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The Salar de Uyuni salt flat is on many people's bucket list, but most do not know that the area surrounding this monochromatic scene is bursting with colour.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190703-bolivias-surreal-rainbow-landscape-0"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-07-04T20:47:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Bolivia’s surreal rainbow landscape","headlineShort":"A scene from an alien planet?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Salar de Uyuni salt flat is on many people's bucket list, but most do not know that the area surrounding this monochromatic scene is bursting with colour.","summaryShort":"This fantastic landscape is now at risk","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:34:52.914993Z","entity":"article","guid":"d094683f-77f6-486d-a577-155dcb1a1d0f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190703-bolivias-surreal-rainbow-landscape","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:52:23.997786Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190703-bolivias-surreal-rainbow-landscape","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442536},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser","_id":"64c2cfd1a471ef30a87eeeee","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fcamille-seaman"],"bodyIntro":"American photographer Camille Seaman spent eight years chasing supercell storms around the US, capturing their sublime and terrifying splendour in captivating images.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI travel the world capturing fleeting moments of power in diverse landscapes. From melting icebergs at both poles to stormy states across the US, my images showcase the beauty and fragility of nature. I began storm chasing after my daughter, eight years old at the time, suggested it might be of interest while we were watching the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0907833\u002F\"\u003EStorm Chasers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E TV show.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was the light, the colour and the strange nature of the clouds themselves that drew me to actually do a web search, contact a chaser and then just three days later, find myself in a vehicle driving fast through bad weather. After that first chase week, I asked the trip leader if he had any other spaces available and he asked me if I could drive. Then he hired me on the spot, and I officially became a professional chaser.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe would chase as far south as Texas and as far north as the Dakotas. We stayed mostly in the Great Plains but sometimes found ourselves as far west New Mexico. It was for a long time something I enjoyed doing. But after eight years I had had my fill. My book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.goodreads.com\u002Fen\u002Fbook\u002Fshow\u002F36205022\"\u003EThe Big Cloud\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is an opus to that time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1w32r"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Storm clouds over field in Kansas","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI wasn't prepared for just how overwhelming an experience chasing can be. This storm in Kansas was visceral and multisensory: the smell of the charged particles, the sweetness of the grass, the scent of the pavement just before it rains, the sight of the wind blowing through cornfields. Not to mention the colours of the clouds and the light of the sky and the lightning. It was all so beautiful, so awesome and so humbling at the same time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1w314"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Dark storm clouds and sky over plains","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I'm storm chasing, I feel a sense of belonging. Not because I'm photographing, but because I am present and realise that our experience as humans on this planet is limitless. Everything is interrelated. The storms provide vital water and nutrients to the very fertile plains. Something about being there as a witness to this incredible force, this elemental force of vortex energy, reminds me that I am part of this great interconnection.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1w2zz"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Truck on road with storm overhead in Bartlett, Nebraska","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI like images that don't look overworked or manipulated, such as this one I took in Bartlett, Nebraska. The storm is already so amazing, there's no need to accentuate it. I look for images that capture the structure and compositional balance and have a sensitivity to colour and light. When you get the image, you feel it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1w2zq"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Supercell storm above Browerville, Minnesota","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESupercell storms, like this one near Browerville, Minnesota, can be 50 miles wide, so it's almost impossible to fit that into a 24mm lens on a full-frame camera, and there's no time to set up a tripod. Clouds are a little forgiving to photograph because they are soft shapes with no hard edges, but it's very dark. A lot of my images are taken with a wide aperture to let the most available light in. When photographing storms, my advice would be to have both a long lens (telephoto) as well as a wide-angle lens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1w2zj"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Car pulled up on side of field with storm above","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhenever we pulled into a town, inevitably we'd stand out as we'd have storm chasing equipment on our car. People either saw us as a bad omen or they'd say, \"Is it coming our way?\". There is nothing more frightening than hearing those storm sirens go off. You have all this warm, moist air being sucked into the plains, you have rotating clouds. You can feel the warm air against your back, being pulled into the storm.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1w2zd"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Sunset and storm clouds in Presho, South Dakota","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI grew up always knowing to respect nature and its power. At no point during this storm in Presho, South Dakota, did I feel brazen, like I'm invincible. At the same time, in storm chasing, you want to stay on the chasing side. You don't want to become chased. That can pivot very quickly. As careful as you want to be, sometimes that's irrelevant.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1w2y1"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Rotating cloud hovering over field in Lodgepole, Nebraska","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnce, after determining we weren't in danger, we decided to stay put while a massive rotating cloud known as a low precipitation mesocyclone passed overhead of Lodgepole, Nebraska. It looked like a spaceship. It was one of the few times where I didn't know what to do. Anywhere you looked, it was unreal. The cloud was so large it occupied the entire visual space. I needed a bigger lens. You couldn't make one wide enough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1w2wk"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageAltText":"Tornado over field and shed in El Reno, Oklahoma","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStorm chasing isn't for everyone. When Tim Samaras (one of the US' most respected and safety-conscious chasers) died in the 2013 El Reno tornado (pictured above), that storm felt like a wake-up call. I tried to chase the following year, but when we were out there, it was like I had lost my nerve. I missed a lot of great opportunities because I wouldn't get close enough. I could feel that I was done.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut what I learned was that storm chasing offers an insight into some of the most powerful and beautiful forces on our planet. However, you must have immense respect and common sense. Don't chase on your own. Find responsible, vetted tour leaders. Most of all, be safe out there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.camilleseaman.com\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECamille Seaman\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is an American photographer who applies portraiture strategies to capture the changing natural environment.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMany of her photographs focus on the natural world, including icebergs and clouds. \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fin-pictures","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-28T10:12:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"In Pictures: Eight spectacular photos from a US storm chaser","headlineShort":"Eight supercell storms around the US","image":["p0g1w2zq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Supercell storm above Browerville, Minnesota","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.4925","longitude":"-99.9018","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Rotating cloud hovering over field in Lodgepole, Nebraska","promoImage":["p0g1w2y1"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230710-in-pictures-five-of-the-worlds-most-remarkable-treks","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190703-bolivias-surreal-rainbow-landscape"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"American photographer Camille Seaman spent eight years chasing supercell storms around the US, capturing their sublime and terrifying splendour in captivating images.","summaryShort":"Sublime and terrifying photos, from Texas to the Dakotas","tag":["tag\u002Fadventure","tag\u002Fphotography","tag\u002Fnews-features"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-27T20:12:48.303699Z","entity":"article","guid":"bfb19970-a135-4910-9069-e6a726d701e0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser","modifiedDateTime":"2023-07-28T11:46:25.123978Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230727-in-pictures-photos-from-a-us-storm-chaser","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442535},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant","_id":"64a46160a471ef30e37aee6b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Through The Sioux Chef, Sean Sherman and Dana Thompson use food as a guidepost to a hidden part of history, all while sparking a (r)evolution of \"true\" North American foods.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn the back patio at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fowamni.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOwamni\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; the Minneapolis, Minnesota, restaurant owned by Sean Sherman and Dana Thompson &ndash; the late-evening sun cast my dessert in a natural spotlight. Marigold-coloured agave squash caramel cascaded slowly down the sides of a sunflower-seed cake the colour of sandstone, and a deep red berry sauce shimmered atop a maple chaga cake so earthy in tone, it felt as though it were plucked from the forest floor.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe connection to nature is palpable here, where sweeping views of the Mississippi River, along with curated indigenous plants like prairie dropseed &ndash; whose high-protein seeds can be eaten raw or ground into a flour &ndash; etch themselves into the landscape like a painting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We named this restaurant Owamni from the Dakota name OwamniYomni, for the waterfall that used to surround this area,\" said Thompson, a descendant of the Wahpeton Sisseton and Mdewakanton Dakota tribes. \"It was said to be as beautiful as Niagara Falls. Spirit Island was the most sacred of the four islands here, and the Dakota and Anishinaabe communities would take their canoes there for ceremony, and women would come from far away just to give birth there.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThompson's grandfather, who contributed historical knowledge to the book Where the Waters Gather and the Rivers Meet, an atlas of the Eastern Sioux published in 1994, made it possible for this important piece of indigenous history to live on.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of Owamni's many strengths is its ability to bridge the past to the present, knowing one can only exist because of the other. You feel this in the dining room, perched on the second floor of two abandoned flour mills, restored after the Minneapolis Park and Recreation Board and Parks Foundation raised more than $19 million to honour the indigenous history of the area by creating a park with Owamni as its inspiration. It's an investment that has already paid off in powerful ways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Eating the food here brings with it a profound sense of place difficult to put to words","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELess than a year after opening in July 2021, Owamni was named \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jamesbeard.org\u002Fblog\u002Fthe-2022-james-beard-award-winners\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2022's Best New Restaurant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the United States by the James Beard Foundation &ndash; whose annual awards recognise exceptional talent in the culinary arts, hospitality, media and the broader food world. The accolade is big deal for any restaurant, but a monumental one when a decolonised menu is on the table. At Owamni, this means never using ingredients introduced to North America after Europeans arrived &ndash; including cane sugar, wheat, dairy, pork and chicken. Instead, only indigenous ingredients like turkey, bison, walleye, beans, wild rice, mushrooms, sweet potatoes, herbs, maple syrup and blue corn are featured.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther ingredients &ndash; like crickets, acorns and timpsula (or prairie turnip) &ndash; might be unfamiliar to more mainstream American palates, despite coming from the places we walk, cycle and drive past. But eating the food here brings with it a profound sense of place difficult to put into words.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile I've had sunflower seeds and honey before, I never expected that, with the addition of water, such simple ingredients could become a cake befitting any pastry shop. And though I can only imagine what a molten sunset absorbing a field of pumpkins into its hot, sticky flow would taste like, I feel certain nothing would come closer than the ethereal squash-agave caramel painted on top. It was so addictive I could have eaten an entire bowl of it. But then I wouldn't have had room for the blue corn mush &ndash; a hazelnut and berry porridge &ndash; from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbowandarrowbrand.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUte Mountain Ute tribe in Colorado\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A pool of maple syrup lay in wait at the bottom of the dish, and its sweetness, combined with the tender grit of the corn meal, the crunch of the hazelnuts and soft, tart berries, felt like a hug from my grandma.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd that glistening berry topping on the maple chaga cake? It's a Lakota berry soup called \u003Cem\u003Ewojape,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E which Sherman uses as a sauce in both sweet and savoury dishes. As a child, he'd gather buckets full of fresh chokecherries to make it but uses many different berries today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe food, while beautiful, is so much more than a plate of art. It's a thoughtful entry point for conversations about indigenous history &ndash; something inherent to the mission of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsioux-chef.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Sioux Chef\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the company Sherman, an Oglala Lakota chef, founded in 2014, and co-owns with Thompson. Their business started with catering and pop-ups and now includes a food truck, the non-profit \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.natifs.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENorth American Traditional Indigenous Food Systems\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (NATIFS) &ndash; from which the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.natifs.org\u002Findigenous-food-lab\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndigenous Food Lab\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a professional indigenous kitchen and training centre in Minneapolis' \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmidtownglobalmarket.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMidtown Global Market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is based &ndash; and, of course, Owamni. The wheels are already in motion to replicate the Indigenous Food Lab across the country, with immediate plans for locations in Montana and Alaska, and, eventually, into more than 45 satellite locations across the United States, Canada, New Zealand, Australia and South America.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"North America's history begins with indigenous history,\" Sherman said. \"There should be Native American restaurants all over the place.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile he and culinary cohorts &ndash; like James Beard finalist \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwahpepahskitchen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECrystal Wahpepah\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, chef Nephi Craig of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fcafegozhoo.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECaf&eacute; Gozh&oacute;&oacute;\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Arizona, cook and educator \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbirchbasketcatering.com\u002Fabout-me\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHillel Echo-Hawk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.icollectiveinc.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EI-Collective\u003C\u002Fa\u003E co-founder Neftali Duran &ndash; have long been working to shift the conversations around indigenous food, the cuisine is still just gaining a foothold in the US.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"North America's history begins with indigenous history. There should be Native American restaurants all over the place.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERecognising the limited time they have to capture guests' attention, Owamni brings the past to life with intentional design touches &ndash; from a map that hangs in the foyer, noting the original indigenous names for the waterways and villages throughout Dakota Territory, to the sunlight-flooded dining room, whose wall of windows gives guests a clear view of the pulsing river below.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt the door, a neon sign reminds you: You Are on Native Land. Thompson asked if I'd like to pose under it for a photo and snapped away on my iPhone. Though she and Sherman know some people still favour trendy food photos over the story behind the food, they're banking on the fact that the more exposure people have to indigenous culture, the more they'll want to learn its history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut what that history is and isn't makes their work all the more challenging.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"History books were written by the US government,\" said Sherman. \"You always hear how Native Americans died from starvation and disease, but people were intentionally mutilated, murdered and killed brutally.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When you follow American history, you'll see that from 1800-1900, indigenous people still had [access to] over 80 percent of land [in the US], but by the end of that century, had access to just two percent.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe pointed to a shockingly long list of historical events systematically designed to stamp out indigenous culture, such as the US government's massive slaughtering of buffalo. Before 1800, an estimated 60 million buffalo roamed the land, offering crucial food sources, along with material for shoes and clothing, housing, cooking vessels and medicine. By 1900, after widespread efforts eradicated the buffalo population across the country, only a few hundred animals were left, effectively paralysing the mechanisms that existed for indigenous people to maintain a self-sustaining way of life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his cookbook, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.upress.umn.edu\u002Fbook-division\u002Fbooks\u002Fthe-sioux-chef\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Sherman explains that fry bread &ndash; often the only thing people associate with Native American food &ndash; is \"a difficult symbol connecting the present to the painful narrative of our history. It originated [nearly 155 years ago] when the US government forced our ancestors from the homelands they farmed, foraged and hunted, and the waters they fished. Displaced and moved to reservations, they lost control of their food and were made to rely on government-issued commodities &ndash; canned meat, white flour, sugar and lard. Fry bread contributes to high levels of diabetes and obesity that affect nearly one-half of the Native population living on reservations. Obesity and tooth decay did not exist among indigenous people of North America before colonial ingredients were introduced.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESherman, who grew up on South Dakota's Pine Ridge Reservation, says these historical events devastated so much for human beings and their knowledge base, yet no one is talking about it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's not ancient history,\" he said. \"This just happened.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEvery culture has its own connection to food, including how it's prepared, grown and consumed. For indigenous people, food sovereignty &ndash; the right to healthy and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.communitycommons.org\u002Fentities\u002Ff9418c94-8118-41a5-8ba2-8619939578e2\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eculturally appropriate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E food and the right to define food and agriculture systems &ndash; was erased through colonisation. Sherman hopes to put the power back in the hands of the people, because he believes when you control your food, you control your destiny.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"It's not ancient history. This just happened.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn North America, ingredients like the tepary bean, a culturally appropriate food and an important heirloom crop brought back from near extinction by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ramonafarms.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERamona Farms\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Arizona, grow abundantly in areas without a lot of water. And at Owamni, when mixed with salt, sunflower oil, pepita meal and maple syrup, it creates an immensely comforting foundation for the tender tumble of smoked Lake Superior trout (from the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fredclifffish.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERed Cliff Band of Lake Superior Chippewa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Wisconsin) piled on top. The fish was remarkable &ndash; evoking memories of a snuffed-out campfire that left the tiniest trail of smoke lingering in the air, catching you off guard when you walk past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe duck sausage, served with roasted turnips and a watercress puree, was succulent and elegant, notes of maple whispering on the palate. It was the perfect companion to a bowl of tender and nutty hand-harvested wild rice &ndash; actually the seed of an aquatic grass &ndash; with dried currants and root vegetables.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe natural world was always a connective thread in Sherman's life. Even in the year he spent after high school working as a field surveyor for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fs.usda.gov\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUS Forest Service\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, identifying plants and trees in South Dakota's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fs.usda.gov\u002Fblackhills\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlack Hills National Forest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; whose name comes from the Lakota words, \u003Cem\u003EPaha Sapa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, meaning hills that are black &ndash; he said memories coded into his DNA began to unlock.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We know the names of more Kardashians than we do trees,\" Sherman said. \"Plant knowledge is power. Everything has a purpose. Even poisonous plants, if used correctly, can be medicine.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EThe roasted, skin-on sweet potatoes with indigenous chilli crisp served at Owamni are inspired by Sherman's time in Mexico. \"There'd be this guy who came around with steamed sweet potatoes he served with chili and lime,\" he recalled. \"His cart whistled as he came down the street. I liked that combo of sweet and spicy. I harvest chillies in my own garden to make this using maple sugar, dried chiles, sunflower oil and salt.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Mexican inspiration","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMost of his career was focused on restaurants &ndash; bussing tables, washing dishes, learning to make pasta, studying wine and, eventually, becoming an executive chef at 29. In 2008, he took a year off from his job rebuilding the restaurant program for a large fitness corporation, and moved to the village of San Pancho in Nayarit, Mexico.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I saw so many commonalities between the way the indigenous Huichol people in my village were living, and how I grew up, and realised I didn't know much about my Lakota ancestry,\" he recalled. \"I started researching everything I could find, and the more history I learned, the more important this work became. I wanted to open up doors to something that has been very hidden, and I can do that through food. We all have a connection to it as humans, and it's a gateway to understanding other cultures.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Sherman won the James Beard Awards for Leadership in 2019 and for Best American Cookbook in 2018, this year's best new restaurant honour opens more space for conversations about history, privilege and the continued fight for a seat at the table.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's a game changer,\" he said. \"Typically, it's saved for high-end restaurants for very privileged people &ndash; European chefs making European foods. Not much diversity has gone into that award, so to stand out in a crowd like that and get the attention we need to pull off what we're doing, is incredible.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"There's a lot of damage in our history, and a lot of healing that needs to be done.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There's a lot of damage in our history, and a lot of healing that needs to be done, but we have to start somewhere. What we're doing is just a little step into something much larger.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThompson sees the impact of their work mirrored by the community. \"The staff, city, other business owners, Native community, people who come with their roller bag from the airport who didn't make a reservation &ndash; it's this organism now,\" she said. \"People are truly invested in this existing.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd while Sherman admits that a restaurant is perhaps one of the worst business plans you can come up with, he also believes one restaurant can change an entire community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We're just trying to take as much knowledge from our ancestors and creating spaces to learn &ndash; working backwards to start to reclaim it so that we have a true (r)evolution of indigenous foods,\" he said. \"Our restaurant is just showing what's possible, and I think it's proving its point.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMixed Berry Wojape\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E (makes about 2-4 cups)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EOwamni by The Sioux Chef\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EIngredients:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E1 cup water\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 pinch mineral salt [such as sea salt]\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 cup blackberries\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 cup blueberries\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 cup raspberries\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 cup strawberries, tops removed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tablespoons maple syrup\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EInstructions:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Col\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EBring the water to a simmer in a medium saucepan; add the salt and the berries.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ELet simmer for 20 to 30 minutes, continuing to stir as the berries break down. Cook to your\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Edesired consistency.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ERemove from the heat and stir in the maple syrup.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Fol\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E Facebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or follow us on\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E Twitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E Instagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-09-28T10:53:58Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Owamni: A (r)evolution of indigenous foods","headlineShort":"The food America tried to erase","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"44.9813467","longitude":"-93.2627455","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Through The Sioux Chef, Sean Sherman and Dana Thompson use food as a guidepost to a hidden part of history, all while sparking a (r)evolution of \"true\" North American foods.","summaryShort":"\"It's a monumental deal when a decolonised menu is on the table\"","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-09-27T23:09:33.079153Z","entity":"article","guid":"a58bcdb5-4514-4327-8d24-e0fdfba58813","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant","modifiedDateTime":"2023-07-26T15:08:47.00797Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442536},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230323-dept-of-culture-new-yorks-hottest-west-african-table":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230323-dept-of-culture-new-yorks-hottest-west-african-table","_id":"64a46161a471ef30a50dc865","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Chef Ayo Balogun of Dept of Culture is introducing North-Central Nigerian cuisine to American palates. And with only one table, the accolade-winning restaurant is booked for months.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen Ayo Balogun was a teenager spending the summer cooking with his grandmother in Western Nigeria's Kwara State, his uncle took him out for an exciting night in the country's capital Lagos, living it up at all sorts of restaurants, from dive bars to posh clubs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was just one night. And I've been trying to recreate that evening since then. It's like, you're always chasing that thing,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow in Brooklyn, after moving to the US in 1998, Balogun is the chef of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.deptofculturebk.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDept of Culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, one of the hottest new restaurants in New York, praised for its warm atmosphere, heart-warming dishes and mission of introducing regional Nigerian cuisine to American palates. The tiny restaurant located in a former barber shop was listed as one of the Best New Restaurants of 2022 by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eater.com\u002F23341194\u002Featers-best-new-restaurants-2022\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEater\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and has been shortlisted for the prestigious \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jamesbeard.org\u002Fawards\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJames Beard Foundation Awards\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which will announce winners in June.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDept of Culture opened only a year ago in the Brooklyn neighbourhood of Bedford-Stuyvesant, not far from the former Civil Service Caf&eacute; where Balogun organised his first pop-up dinners during the pandemic. (Balogun's parents were civil servants, hence the name.) Tiny but elegant, Dept of Culture only has one communal table and a counter with four stools. It can host just 16 people a night, and it's booked for months in advance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe restaurant, which has a fixed menu, is a BYOB establishment where guests share a meal and often more than one bottle that they brought from home. On a recent night, the first course was a dish called \u003Cem\u003Easaro\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a deliciously textured porridge made with two kinds of yam &ndash; sweet potato and white yam tuber &ndash; and served with smoked shrimp and crayfish for a little extra kick. Balogun's father ate it as a schoolboy in the 1950s, but Balogun himself didn't like it as a child.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230323-dept-of-culture-new-yorks-hottest-west-african-table-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230323-dept-of-culture-new-yorks-hottest-west-african-table-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Now, I found myself eating it all the time,\" he explained. \"It makes me think of, like, Agatha Christie, and watching TV after coming back from school.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor guests who are not accustomed to Nigerian cuisine, it's a dish that manages to be both comforting and familiar, even if you've never tried it before.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe second course, \u003Cem\u003Eiy&aacute;n\u003C\u002Fem\u003E &ndash; a pounded yam served with smoked fish, \u003Cem\u003Eefo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (spinach), \u003Cem\u003Eegusi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fermented melon seeds) and \u003Cem\u003Eiru \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(locust beans) had a much more unexpected elastic texture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's like old people's food,\" joked Balogun.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230323-dept-of-culture-new-yorks-hottest-west-african-table-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoTitle":"Click on the arrow above to watch the video","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230323-dept-of-culture-new-yorks-hottest-west-african-table-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen talking about his food, Balogun not only shares tales of his country &ndash; which he says is \"the most beautiful in the world\" &ndash; but also makes a point of saying any ingredient names in Yoruba first.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor instance, when introducing his spicy Goat Meat Pepper Soup &ndash; while reassuring guests that \"you feel the heat, but it goes away\" &ndash; Balogun spells out the name for pepper. \"It's \u003Cem\u003Erodo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. R-O-D-O,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter all, this is the Dept of Culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWritten and directed by Anna Bressanin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EDirector of Photography Ilya Shnitser\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEdited by Laura Plasencia and Anna Bressanin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Epresent and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThis video is part of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Freel\u002Fplaylist\u002Fsoul-food\"\u003EBBC Reel's Soul Food playlist\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230323-dept-of-culture-new-yorks-hottest-west-african-table-4"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-03-24T20:40:08Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"New York's hottest West African table","headlineShort":"The NYC restaurant with only one table","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"40.6871958","longitude":"-73.9529715","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Chef Ayo Balogun of Dept of Culture is introducing North-Central Nigerian cuisine to American palates. And with only one table, the accolade-winning restaurant is booked for months.","summaryShort":"The space was once a barber shop","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-03-23T20:52:03.805221Z","entity":"article","guid":"86777e7d-4371-492a-abaa-93a7aaa06df0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230323-dept-of-culture-new-yorks-hottest-west-african-table","modifiedDateTime":"2023-03-24T13:19:00.750202Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230323-dept-of-culture-new-yorks-hottest-west-african-table","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442536},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary","_id":"64a46162a471ef0d42793683","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"video","assetVideo":[],"author":[],"bodyIntro":"More than 50 years after opening her iconic Chez Panisse restaurant, the slow food advocate continues to be at the vanguard of change and her influence has spread across the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 1971, Alice Waters opened the US' first farm-to-table restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chezpanisse.com\u002F1\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChez Panisse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in Berkeley, California. More than 50 years later, the legendary chef, author and slow food advocate continues to be at the vanguard of change, and her influence has spread across the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI met with Waters to talk to her about how she came to define &ndash; and continues to expand &ndash; her role as an advocate for sustainable farming, as well as her passion for food education.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt all began with a simple vision. Inspired by her time visiting France in her 20s, Waters wanted to offer people good food along with the experience of a small restaurant &ndash; something different from the burgeoning industrialised and fast-food offerings in the US at the time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I had gone to France in 1965, and when I got back from the trip, I wanted to eat like the French. I wanted to eat and live like the French. I wanted to go to farmer's markets. I wanted that food,\" she said. \"And so, when I got back home, I started looking and tasting everything. And I thought, well, I can't find it. But maybe if I opened a little restaurant with my friends, that we would have access in some way.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack in the '60s, Waters was also an activist and a passionate supporter of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffsm.berkeley.edu\u002Ffree-speech-movement-timeline\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFree Speech Movement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and by the time she opened Chez Panisse, she was ready to take on the prevailing culture of fast food and mass production.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoTitle":"Alice Waters: Food revolutionary (watch video for the full story)","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We were encouraged by the spirit of the time. It was sort of after the Free Speech Movement, Civil Rights. And, you know, we had a lot of power about stopping the war in Vietnam. No one was interested in making money,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of any initial lack of profitability, Chez Panisse seemed destined to become a huge success, and has endured to this day, featuring a daily menu using only fresh, local, seasonal and organic produce. Waters believes that the restaurant's legacy is testament to the quality of these ingredients and to the creativity that comes with interpreting them in different ways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I know for a fact that it's the biodiversity and the seasonality of food that has made Chez Panisse what it is over 50 years.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I know for a fact that it's the biodiversity and the seasonality of food that has made Chez Panisse what it is over 50 years, that we're never getting tired of what we're cooking,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOther chefs in California soon began to adopt Waters' farm-to-table ethos, followed by those throughout the US and beyond. Largely responsible for defining what is known as \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.masterclass.com\u002Farticles\u002Fcalifornia-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECalifornia Cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", she was also the first chef to include the names of local farms on menus because she \"wanted people to know where the food came from\" and to celebrate the farmers who grew it, inspiring other chefs to do the same.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EIn late 2021, Alice Waters made waves by opening a second restaurant. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhammer.ucla.edu\u002Frestaurant\"\u003ELulu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is named after her dear friend Lulu Peyraud, who hailed from Provence, France, and lived to be 102 years old. The farm-to-table venue is nestled&nbsp;in the courtyard of Los Angeles' Hammer Museum and is run by former Chez Panisse alum, Chef David Tanis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"A new restaurant","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut Waters is more than an inspirational celebrity chef. She's a food revolutionary. And her biggest mission is to change the way we all relate to food &ndash; and the planet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to managing Chez Panisse, the former \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Famshq.org\u002FAbout-Montessori\u002FWhat-Is-Montessori\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMontessori\u003C\u002Fa\u003E teacher has always believed that education is the best path to a sustainable future. And so, she has spent much of the last few decades building initiatives to spread her farm-to-table philosophy beyond the kitchen and into the classroom. In 1995, she established the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fedibleschoolyard.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEdible School Yard Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for children, which aims to transform traditional education, using organic gardening to teach both academic subjects and the values of nourishment, stewardship and community. The initiative, started at Martin Luther King Jr Middle School in Berkeley, California, has now expanded to thousands of schools around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen referring to Waters, former Edible School Yard executive director, Angela McKee-Brown, said, \"She's a woman who believes passionately in education and the power of education to change the world. What she's done is combine food, community and education together into this incredible concept, which is that of a schoolyard project which has served as this powerful beacon of what education can be and what it can mean for our kids.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOver the past couple of years, Waters has taken things a step further by embarking on a new endeavour: the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fedibleschoolyard.org\u002Falice-waters-institute-edible-education\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAlice Waters Institute for Edible Education\u003C\u002Fa\u003E run out of the University of California, Davis. This institute will serve as a training centre for educators as well as a research hub for leaders in the fields of regenerative agriculture, climate change and public health.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWaters believes that we're at a tipping point when it comes to food security and climate change, and that we need drastic change. To her, the way forward goes beyond eating more sustainably (which basically keeps things the way they are without doing more damage to the environment). Instead, she asserts that we need to turn to food that's grown \"regeneratively\", though practices that make the soil better than it was before, increase biodiversity and improve local ecosystems. In many ways, it's a holistic approach to farming that's been used for millennia by indigenous people but that has become lost over the centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We need to put nature first – absolutely first – or we're going to be in many pandemics. And I fear for the planet.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We have to understand, we're never going back to that fast-food culture and world. We must make a change, a big change,\" she said. \"We need to put nature first &ndash; absolutely first &ndash; or we're going to be in many pandemics. And I fear for the planet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut just how realistic is Waters' slow food vision in today's fast-paced world? The answer remains to be seen. However, Waters firmly believes that we can all make a difference by purchasing and eating local ingredients, and that this food can and should be available to everyone, starting with children in the school system.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The thing is, food for Alice is not just about having a restaurant and, you know, feeding people. Basically, the farm-to-table issues were hers from the beginning. She coined that phrase. She changed the way millions of people eat already,\" said Annie Philbin, director of the Hammer Museum. \"I think her ambitions are really about now changing the way we produce food, changing the way we purchase it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFifty years might have passed, but Waters' drive to unleash the power that food has to enhance our lives shows no signs of dimming.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I guess that the real joy comes when you win somebody over, [and] allow yourself to be won over. Expect a miracle. Expect that. Just know that it's possible to change your mind and your habits. We can do this. And if we do it in the public school system, everyone will benefit,\" Waters said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm really focused on this delicious revolution.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFilm credits:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAnne Banas, reporter\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EAnna Bressanin, producer\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EIlya Shnitser, director of photography\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EElisabetta Abrami, editor\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ESoo Min Kim, production assistant\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EAudio Network, music\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-02-15T15:36:08Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Alice Waters: Food revolutionary","headlineShort":"The US' first farm-to-table restaurant","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.8796111","longitude":"-122.2711135","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"More than 50 years after opening her iconic Chez Panisse restaurant, the slow food advocate continues to be at the vanguard of change and her influence has spread across the world.","summaryShort":"Alice Waters has been redefining the future of food for more than 50 years","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-02-14T22:26:02.621648Z","entity":"article","guid":"0e8eda1e-1bcd-41d8-8939-34f8bf70b053","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary","modifiedDateTime":"2023-02-23T21:14:06.292547Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442537},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety","_id":"64c18946a471ef2ed22c8fdf","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fstefanie-ellis"],"bodyIntro":"At Seattle's Eight Row, the robust non-alcoholic beverage programme serves as a model of inclusivity when it comes to meeting the needs of diners opting out of alcohol.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen the crab butter with ancho chilli and sea salt was placed on the table, it conjured images of a burnt orange sunset over Puget Sound, an inlet of the Pacific Ocean located along the north-western coast of the US state of Washington. The butter, with its briny sweetness, was slathered on pillowy sourdough \u003Cem\u003Ebolillo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a Mexican bread similar to a baguette) made from the 100-year-old starter of chef and owner David Nichols' grandfather.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven after I put the roll down, the butter's perfume lingered in the air, as if the slow simmering pot of crab stock from which it was made was right beside me.&nbsp;The moment was enhanced by a glass of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdrinkjoyus.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJoyus\u003C\u002Fa\u003E non-alcoholic (NA) sparkling white wine &ndash; pleasantly dry, with notes of tart apple on the finish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENext came an impeccably balanced NA cocktail made with an Amaretto alternative called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flyres.com\u002Frange\u002Famaretti\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELyre's Amaretti\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, ginger and lemongrass-infused \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.seedlipdrinks.com\u002Fen-us\u002Fshop\u002Fseedlip-grove-42\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESeedlip Grove 42\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and homemade lemon-and-banana vinegar &ndash; a drink enhanced exponentially by a dish of sunchoke confit so tender it melted on the fork. The confit was crowned with a banana vinegar caramel, masterfully mirroring the cocktail's most impressive ingredient.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf anyone had asked if I thought something was missing from my drinks, I certainly wouldn't have guessed it was the alcohol. This was, of course, a detail created by design. At \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eightrow.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEight Row\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; named for the largest cherry size on a standard measuring guide for the fruit &ndash; intentionality is written on the menu and displayed everywhere you look. At the bar, beer taps are made from repurposed pruning shears, and an expansive collection of non-alcoholic wine and spirits is displayed alongside mainstream alcohol brands. The vegetable-forward menu reads like a love letter to the bounty of the Pacific Northwest, with much of the restaurant's produce sourced from Nichols' family farm and orchard along the Wenatchee River, just two hours east of Seattle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut what isn't on the menu is Nichols' four years of sobriety. His wife and general manager, Kate Willman Nichols, has been sober for 10 years. Their lead bartender, Anthony Spruill, has been sober two years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g26ygw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Photo of ingredients to make NA cocktails","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlcoholism isn't a topic that restaurateurs have historically acknowledged, let alone shared openly with their customers, which makes the environment the duo has cultivated all the more impactful. Though Nichols' food has been getting recognition &ndash; he was a semi-finalist for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jamesbeard.org\u002Fblog\u002Fthe-2023-james-beard-awards-semifinalists\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBest Chef Northwest and Pacific\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in this year's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230605-james-beard-award-winners-2023\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJames Beard Foundation Awards\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; his openness about his personal journey has made his restaurant more than just a place to eat. It has become a safe space for those looking for a place to belong.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENichols owns Eight Row with his brother, Ian, who lives in London but visits Seattle several times a year to harvest cherries and spend time at the restaurant. Ian crafts the wine list via Zoom each week, alongside in-house beverage manager and sommelier Janice DeWitt. And while Nichols says he and his brother have a strong partnership, he admits it took a lot of time to get to where they are today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Ian was always fascinated with food, wine and hospitality, and we ate out a lot when we lived together in New York,\" recalled Nichols. \"But he hated living with me at the time. He'd lock himself in his room because he knew I was going to get drunk.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe first time Nichols went to rehab, his brother and other family members had staged an intervention. He was working for famed New York restaurateur and chef Mark Murphy, who paid for him to attend an outpatient programme.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I wasn't ready to get sober,\" Nichols admitted. \"I didn't do step work or call my sponsor. I lied to my therapist. I thought I could have a beer and wouldn't get screwed up. Then a bottle of whiskey is gone, then a bag of cocaine, then [I'm on] a bender for two months. I knew if I wanted to open a restaurant, live until I'm 40, have a relationship&hellip; I had to stop drinking.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe credits his involvement with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bensfriendshope.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBen's Friends\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an addiction and substance abuse support group for those in the food and beverage industry, as the start of his life in recovery. He and Willman Nichols are co-founders of the Seattle chapter and host weekly in-person meetings at Eight Row, along with a Zoom option, where anyone across the world can join in fellowship.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter one of those meetings, when the restaurant was closed, Willman Nichols brought out three NA cocktails for me to try alongside a large tray filled with NA spirits, homemade syrups and garnishes. \"This is what it took to make these drinks,\" she said. \"This is not soda and flavoured juice. It takes just as much effort to make these as our cocktails, and they're the same price.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe craftmanship was evident in the garnet-hued cocktail, Envy, whose slightly sweet and tannic notes reminded me of a Negroni, with warm spices and bitter botanicals lingering on the back of the palate. The drink was made from a combination of small-batch NA spirits, like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwildertonfree.com\u002Fproducts\u002Fearthen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWilderton Earthen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Giffard Aperitif, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdrinkthepathfinder.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPathfinder\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fspiritless.com\u002Fproducts\u002Fkentucky-74-non-alcoholic-bourbon\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKentucky 74\u003C\u002Fa\u003E whiskey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g26z5k"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Photo of David and Kate Nichols","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn elevated dining experience that gives zero-proof cocktails the same attention as their alcohol-infused counterparts is not yet the norm across the US. And though the global market value of no- and low-alcohol products \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theiwsr.com\u002Fno-and-low-alcohol-category-value-surpasses-11bn-in-2022\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etopped &pound;8.5 billion ($11 billion) in sales in 2022\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the restaurant and bar industry in the US has far to go to become inclusive with its offerings. Eight Row is a strong model for what the future could look like, with a dozen options available between their full-sized NA cocktail menu and the curated drinks that come with the chef's tasting menu, which change weekly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe NA margarita &ndash; made with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flyres.com\u002Frange\u002Fagave-blanco-spirit\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELyre's Agave Blanco\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.seedlipdrinks.com\u002Fen-us\u002Fshop\u002Fseedlip-garden-108\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESeedlip Garden 108\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, tomatillo syrup and lime &ndash; was perfect with a Dungeness crab \u003Cem\u003Epozole \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a fiery stew made with tender, processed corn known as hominy)\u003Cem\u003E &ndash; \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewhose glistening red broth came from a preponderance of chillies. The cocktail extinguished the flames on my tongue in the way only a good margarita can.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We knew if our NA cocktails were going to be against our other cocktails, they needed to look the same and be made the same way &ndash; with real spirits and seasonal elements,\" Willman Nichols said. \"When we opened, only a few spirits were available. But now, there's a new product every month. One of our bartenders was making NA cocktails at such a pace, she rearranged the back shelves to have the bottles closer. Now they're within arm's reach, as close as the well spirits [bottles of the most frequently used liquor within very easy reach behind a bar].\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the bottles being served at tables all night was Joyus, the sparkling white I'd tried at the beginning of my meal. Seattle-based founder Jess Selander, who has been sober 17 years, approached the duo with her wine after reading an article where they spoke openly about their goals for the sober community in the food and hospitality industry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"As a sober person, you feel seen and included.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I don't think people realise how powerful it is to go to a restaurant and see non-alcoholic wine on a menu,\" she said. \"As a sober person, you feel seen and included. David and Kate are changing industry culture.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENichols is happy when he gets positive feedback from friends and customers because it means his vision of providing an inclusive space has come to pass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This restaurant is different for every person who walks in here, and we like that,\" he said. \"Creating an environment where people can feel comfortable is more important than making money. For us, this is something bigger.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few years ago, if you told Nichols and Willman Nichols that as two sober people in an alcohol-dominated industry, they'd open a restaurant where they faced and openly discussed their demons &ndash; all while being nominated for prestigious awards and supporting a new recovery movement across the country &ndash; they might have thought it all outlandish.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut now it's just more reason to keep going.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g26zx6"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Photo of mixing an NA cocktail","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The fact that I am an alcoholic makes me passionate about the work we're doing,\" Willman Nichols said. \"And if someone sees our NA cocktails and it helps them feel like they belong, then I feel we have done something.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENichols says the restaurant has become part of his recovery. \"If it was gone, I'd still be in recovery, but it takes everyone to make this thing work,\" he said. \"For restaurants &ndash; and sobriety &ndash; you can't do it alone. You need to ask for help. There are tough days, but we have to talk about it. We need to talk about mental health. I often hear people say the restaurant industry needs to change, and I disagree. The people running the restaurant industry need to change.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-27T10:58:47Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Eight Row: A US restaurant that celebrates sobriety","headlineShort":"The US restaurant serving up sobriety","image":["p0g26y23"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Photo of crab butter and sourdough rolls","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"47.6800976","longitude":"-122.3243827","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"64a461aca471ef30b9021812"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Photo of crab butter and sourdough rolls","promoImage":["p0g26y23"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220927-owamni-the-us-best-new-restaurant","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230323-dept-of-culture-new-yorks-hottest-west-african-table","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230214-alice-waters-food-revolutionary"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"At Seattle's Eight Row, the robust non-alcoholic beverage programme serves as a model of inclusivity when it comes to meeting the needs of diners opting out of alcohol.","summaryShort":"It's a strong model for what the future could look like","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Ffeatures"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-26T20:59:33.889866Z","entity":"article","guid":"e83ddde6-1c16-470a-866e-b271ea836b52","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety","modifiedDateTime":"2023-07-26T23:07:25.533534Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230726-eight-row-a-us-restaurant-that-celebrates-sobriety","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fseattle","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_washington_seattle_north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442536},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights","_id":"64a4615ba471ef2ea64185df","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Although it seems obvious there would be a southern equivalent to the northern lights, the Aurora Australis might be the southern hemisphere’s best-kept secret.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Can you remind me why we&rsquo;re here?&rdquo; my husband asked, sounding slightly annoyed. I&rsquo;d promised him a mini break by the sea, sans kids for the first time in five years. What the reality looked like, however, was pouring rain in a tiny Tasmanian town where low-rise houses were huddled by grey, choppy water and nary a shop in sight. It was winter and freezing cold. I could understand why he was less than impressed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I feel like this is Australia&rsquo;s birthright. And people just don&rsquo;t know about it.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe&rsquo;d just arrived in Southport, the most southern township in Australia, where we were staying at a deserted caravan park that declared itself &ldquo;The Last Stop in Tassie&rdquo; &ndash; whether that was proudly or despondently, I wasn&rsquo;t quite sure. My husband also didn&rsquo;t yet know that I had an ulterior motive to our child-free break. I&rsquo;d been hearing more and more over the last few years about the Aurora Australis, the southern sibling to the&nbsp;Northern Lights. Although tourists flock to see the colourful, dancing lights that sweep across the skies in high-latitude regions from Canada to Iceland, few seem to know that the southern hemisphere has its own equally magical lightshow &ndash; and I was determined to see it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;I feel like this is Australia&rsquo;s birthright. And people just don&rsquo;t know about it,&rdquo; said Margaret Sonnemann, author of the Aurora Chaser&rsquo;s Handbook and founder of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002Fauroraaustralis\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAurora Australis Tasmania\u003C\u002Fa\u003E Facebook page.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe Southern (and Northern) Lights can be seen around the magnetic poles when the upper atmosphere is hit by energetic charged particles that travel along the Earth&rsquo;s magnetic field lines. When those energetic electrons collide with gases in the atmosphere, they emit light.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;They occur when there&rsquo;s a release of energy due to collisions between polar atmospheric gases of the Earth and precipitating high-energy charged particles guided by geomagnetic field from the magnetotail,&rdquo; said Dr Rakesh Panwar at the Australian Bureau of Meteorology, Space Weather Services. He explained that they are seen mostly at high or polar latitudes, but occasionally may be seen at middle latitudes when a large solar event occurs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough it&rsquo;s true that the Southern Lights have been seen from mainland Australia, they&rsquo;re more commonly seen from Australia&rsquo;s island-state of Tasmania (or from New Zealand), due to its clear skies and proximity to the pole, which is why I&rsquo;d dragged my husband 600km south from Melbourne.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI wasn&rsquo;t the only one fascinated by the magic of these dancing lights. Sonnemann, an American who moved to Tasmania 32 years ago, told me that she got hooked on aurora chasing back in 2005 when she was driving south to Hobart, the state capital. Although it wasn&rsquo;t the first aurora she had seen, she said it was the most captivating. It was happening behind her as she drove, reaching up to the heavens, straight above her head.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;It was pretty much a black-and-white experience, but the movement of the beams was magical,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;It changed dramatically from second to second, shooting up into the sky. It was beautiful and exhilarating.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200505-tasmanias-ruggedly-beautiful-quarantine-sitehttp:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200326-why-the-humble-meat-pie-defines-australia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe food that defines Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200505-tasmanias-ruggedly-beautiful-quarantine-site\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA ruggedly beautiful quarantine site \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190902-an-extraordinary-landscape-at-the-edge-of-the-world\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's bizarre coastal desert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Sonnemann knew other locals who were interested in aurora chasing, there was no central source of information to draw on to find out when and where they were happening. She realised that a notification system was needed. &ldquo;Since auroras are weather dependent, we needed to be able to not only say &lsquo;it&rsquo;s happening now&rsquo;, but where it was happening,&rdquo; she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESonnemann started her Facebook page in 2010, mostly with a handful of interested locals (it now has more than 85,000 members and 10 admins). &ldquo;But it quickly became photographers,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;That&rsquo;s because aurora photography can be the best way to see the lights.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShe said that although people associate auroras with streaks of colour lighting up the sky, in Tasmania, you&rsquo;ll likely see a white light without a camera, perhaps with some coloured glow around it, unless there&rsquo;s enough cosmic activity to make the aurora big enough. &ldquo;You can&rsquo;t see a lot of colour with the naked eye, as our eyes are not designed to see colour at night,&rdquo; she explained. &ldquo;To see strong colour, [the aurora] needs to be very bright.&rdquo; However, use a camera and the results can be spectacular.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Because we&rsquo;re looking more towards the horizon, we get just about every colour: red, greens, yellows, blues and purples","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAsk Sonnemann what she loves most about the Aurora Australis, and her face lights up. She&rsquo;s passionate about the topic and it makes sense when she tells me that people call her the &ldquo;Aurora Lady&rdquo;. &ldquo;One of the nice things about our auroras is that most of them are not overhead,&rdquo; she said, explaining that Tasmania is much further from the South Pole than many northern hemisphere aurora hotspots are to the North Pole. &ldquo;What that means for photographers is that they get a better variety of colours if they&rsquo;re looking at something that&rsquo;s on the horizon. If you look at aurora photos from spots in the northern hemisphere, they're often green, which is pretty much the colour you&rsquo;re going to get if it&rsquo;s overhead. Because we&rsquo;re looking more towards the horizon, we get just about every colour: red, greens, yellows, blues and purples.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;I like to say that it&rsquo;s like seeing music,&rdquo; she added, smiling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EFind a good viewing spot during daylight hours\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ETry to ensure minimal light pollution\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EMake sure you have an unobstructed view to the south\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EPractice photographing stars to get your camera focus right\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EUse \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sws.bom.gov.au\u002FGeophysical\u002F1\u002F2\u002F1\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea local K-index\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (such as the kH (Hobart) or kL (Launceston) in Tasmania)\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EJoin a local Facebook group, like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fgroups\u002Fauroraaustralis\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAurora Australis Tasmania\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FauroraserviceAUS\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAurora Service - Australis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for on-the-ground tips\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECamera settings:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ETune your camera to be extremely sensitive to light, with a full-frame sensor and wide-angle lens\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EWide aperture: F2 or F4 (as low as possible), to let as much light in as possible\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003ELonger exposure of about 15-20 seconds\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EISO 3200-6400 (as high as possible)\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E","calloutTitle":"Aurora Australis tips","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhat&rsquo;s also unique about the Southern Lights is that they can be seen year-round. Although many people (myself included) assume that aurora chasing is a winter sport; that&rsquo;s because northern hemisphere aurora spots have the midnight sun in summer. In the southern hemisphere, whether you&rsquo;re in Tasmania, New Zealand or even parts of southern Victoria, you&rsquo;ve got a real possibility of seeing an aurora in mild summer weather, although you&rsquo;ll have to stay up later as it doesn&rsquo;t get dark until 21:00 or 22:00. And the lights can be equally stunning, ranging from intense white pillars in the sky to ethereal streaks of greens and reds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, I&rsquo;d clearly picked a bad weekend, with murky skies and fat drops of rain. One Southport local told us that he can often see the aurora from his back deck in summer. But not this time of year. Come back when it&rsquo;s clear weather, he said. He was right. The sky was a blanket of grey cloud, and later, when it got dark, there was nothing to be seen in the thick, inky blackness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, when I&rsquo;d met with Sonnemann earlier that day, she&rsquo;d told me that I&rsquo;d made another incorrect assumption &ndash; I didn&rsquo;t need to be staking out Australia&rsquo;s southernmost spot for my best chance of seeing the lights.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Preferably you need to be away from city lights, but you can see them anywhere in this state,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;You need a clear view to the south, so no hills, no trees. It&rsquo;s just as good all over Tasmania, whether you&rsquo;re in Devonport or Hobart. Anywhere where it&rsquo;s darkish. You can see it in your own back yard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESo, the next morning we packed up and fled the tiny town for Bruny Island, two islands connected by an isthmus across the D'Entrecasteaux&nbsp;Channel from Southport. Bruny Island has a wealth of delights to interest the traveller, from its world-famous cheese to its unique white wallabies, so I figured there would be plenty to do even if we were thwarted by the fickle light show. The island is so remote that even without an aurora the night skies can be magical, with the Milky Way on full show and a blanket of stars cossetting you.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWe drove from the ferry terminal, past wineries, breweries and cheese shops to our accommodation, down a single road with dense gums on either side that occasionally broke rank to give a startling view of the glistening ocean. The accommodation I&rsquo;d booked had a 180-degree panorama over Cloudy Bay, where lulling waves broke into white-crested spumes as they flopped onto the shore, which was a strip of golden sandy beach surrounded by thickly forested hills of blue gum and stringybark. It was spectacularly beautiful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;This is a photographer&rsquo;s dream,&rdquo; said Ben Kienhuis, operations manager at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrunyisland.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBruny Island Coastal Retreats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as he unlocked the front door and showed us in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHe was right. From the living room window was a clear view across the bay, with nothing blocking our sightline to the horizon. This, I hoped, would be the place to see the ethereal aurora. Kienhuis explained that the night skies here can be so spectacular that his team have recently started offering \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbrunyislandphotography.com.au\u002Fauroraphotography-tour\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaurora photography tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which take amateur photographers to various locations on the island to take in the glory of these clear southern skies and, hopefully, the Aurora Australis. They believe their new aurora tour is the first of its kind in Tasmania.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;The auroras can be spectacular,&rdquo; said photographer \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Ftscharke\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELuke Tscharke\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who runs the tours with Kienhuis. &ldquo;But there&rsquo;s no aurora tourism [in Tasmania],&rdquo; he added. &ldquo;You don&rsquo;t see people advertising to take you out to see the Southern Lights because it&rsquo;s just so challenging to predict or guarantee that you&rsquo;d see them.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut the thrill of the chase is clearly part of the fun. To help me with my search, Sonnemann had introduced me to various apps and meteorological sites that are designed to help the amateur aurora chaser, which detail the wind speed, the Bz (the orientation of the interplanetary magnetic field) and the K-index (the level of disturbance in the Earth&rsquo;s magnetic field), among other indicators. Combined, they give a guide as to the probability of an aurora happening. Facebook groups, such as Sonnemann&rsquo;s, are also an excellent place to find out from locals on the ground where and when an aurora might occur. Understanding the readings was complex but addicting. I found myself feverishly checking the app on my phone, hoping for a change in conditions that might bring the aurora to me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;There are never any guarantees,&rdquo; Sonnemann reminded me. &ldquo;People say, &lsquo;I&rsquo;ve heard this prediction&hellip;&rsquo;, but you never know.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, despite the elusiveness of the lights, there&rsquo;s been a surge in interest in the Aurora Australis over the last few years. Sonnemann explained that most of the members on her page are now not locals and photographers, but international tourists who want to see the aurora. Her concern is that there&rsquo;s currently no infrastructure to handle them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You don&rsquo;t see people advertising to take you out to see the Southern Lights because it&rsquo;s just so challenging to predict or guarantee that you&rsquo;d see them","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;It really disturbs me that we have people coming down here, from places like Singapore, who have never seen a dark sky before, and are petrified of driving in the dark,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;Their whole lives have been fully lit. They&rsquo;ve never seen &lsquo;dark&rsquo;. So they end up flying down and don&rsquo;t even go out. They don&rsquo;t want to drive in it. I just think that&rsquo;s horrible.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo try to meet the demand, she&rsquo;s working on a project to create aurora viewing platforms, which she envisages as sheltered spots that people can drive or taxi to, where they&rsquo;ll find explanatory signage and photography tips &shy;&ndash; and likely other aurora chasers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Even if there&rsquo;s not an aurora &ndash; and there&rsquo;s not one every night &ndash; they might be seeing the Milky Way for the first time,&rdquo; Sonnemann said. &ldquo;They can still see a beautiful night sky, even if there&rsquo;s no aurora.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat night I stayed up late, staring at the thick cloudy sky through the windows. The K-index was hovering at one and the wind speed was low, meaning an aurora was unlikely. It was freezing cold, and I fell asleep in front of the fire. Around 02:00, I woke up, startled by a noise perhaps, or maybe a sense that something was going to happen. I opened the sliding doors and stood in front of the bay, the frigid air pressing into me on all sides and making it hard to breathe. I looked up into the thick night sky. There was no aurora. But the clouds had finally cleared, leaving a never-ending blackness punctuated with stars. I stood there quietly, listening to the gentle roar of the ocean that stretched, unhindered, all the way to the South Pole.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI should have been disappointed, of course, but for some reason I wasn&rsquo;t. Perhaps it was the magic of the experience or the magnitude of sky; whatever it was, I was sure that the aurora would reveal itself to me when the time was right. For now, though, I drank in the solitude, the space, the silence. Whether or not I was ever going to see the Southern Lights, I knew that I was glad to be here, on an island off an island off an island on the very edge of the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights-23"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-07T21:25:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Australia’s answer to the Northern Lights","headlineShort":"Is this Australia's best-kept secret?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although it seems obvious there would be a southern equivalent to the northern lights, the Aurora Australis might be the southern hemisphere’s best-kept secret.","summaryShort":"It's the southern hemisphere's answer to the Northern Lights","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:51:43.71676Z","entity":"article","guid":"45e6a044-3022-48b9-88a9-88a1c6f9f936","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:12:00.468467Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442537},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture","_id":"64a4615ea471ef0d5c2c2723","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Although many people believe that this ancient culture and people were lost, recent years have seen a seismic shift in recognition for indigenous Tasmanians.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAmong the sand dunes that line Tasmania's north-east coast, a campfire burns. Carleeta Thomas stands beside the fire, tending the muttonbird that cooks in the flames, surrounded by a series of wooden sleeping pods dotted through the scrub.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe oily muttonbird, or short-tailed shearwater, has been a traditional \u003Cem\u003Epalawa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Tasmanian Aboriginal) food for as long as anyone knows, and these sleeping pods have been designed to replicate palawa huts found on Tasmania's west coast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, they're an immersive piece of the wukalina Walk, a guided hike along the \u003Cem\u003Elarapuna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u002FBay of Fires coast that is the first tourism business owned and operated by the palawa community. They're an expression of an ancient culture and people that even someone as young as 21-year-old Thomas, wukalina Walk's head guide, has often been told was dead.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I went to high school, there were still people that were saying 'I swear Truganini was the last Tasmanian Aboriginal',\" she said. \"I didn't really know how to respond to that. I knew I was Aboriginal.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe myth that Bruny Island woman Truganini was the last Aboriginal Tasmanian has persisted since her death in 1876, less than 80 years after Tasmania was settled by Europeans. In those early decades, palawa suffered a series of atrocities, from being forced into missions by the state's so-called Chief Protector of Aborginals, George Augustus Robinson, to be \"civilised and Christianised\", to the Black Line of 1830, when settlers formed a moving human chain across the island to try to capture the remaining Aboriginal population. The settlers were outsmarted: only two palawa were reported as captured. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe treatment of the palawa \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.utas.edu.au\u002Fnews\u002F2018\u002F1\u002F18\u002F513-explainer-the-evidence-for-the-tasmanian-genocide\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehas been described as a genocide\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, though the lineage survived, with some palawa women taken to Bass Strait islands off the north coast of Tasmania by British and American sealers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Hikers walking on beach at Bay of Fires","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the 2016 Australian census, more than 23,000 Tasmanians identified as Aboriginal, representing 4.6% of the population &ndash; higher than the national rate, where 3.3% of Australians identified as Aboriginal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor palawa, there has been a seismic shift in recognition in recent years, with a new embrace of indigenous culture across Tasmania. In 2014, the state began a process of bestowing dual names &ndash; English and \u003Cem\u003Epalawa kani\u003C\u002Fem\u003E &ndash; on places, so that the likes of Mount Wellington, which looms over Hobart, became \u003Cem\u003Ekunanyi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u002FMt Wellington; and the Tarkine rainforest in Tasmania's north-west became \u003Cem\u003Etakayna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u002FTarkine. With 15 new Aboriginal or dual names approved at the start of this year, there are now 28 altered place names across the state.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe wukalina Walk began in 2018, bringing palawa culture, country, stories and bush tucker to travellers. Tasmanian Aboriginal Studies is now taught in schools, and palawa arts such as shell stringing, weaving and kelp basket-making have come to the fore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"For palawa, there has been a seismic shift in recognition in recent years, with a new embrace of indigenous culture across Tasmania","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn April 2021, palawa artist Caleb Nichols-Mansell opened the doors of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.blackspacecreative.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlackspace Creative\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an art gallery in the city of Burnie on Tasmania's north-west coast, now representing 19 palawa artists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I say that we're the first dedicated palawa arts and cultural hub,\" said Nichols-Mansell, who believes the re-emergence of palawa culture to be part of a recent recognition &ndash; spurred in a large part by the Black Lives Matter movement &ndash; of the state's brutal history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think we've reached a point that we have to acknowledge the history,\" he added. \"We can't move forward any further without acknowledging what happened in the past. I think the reason we've seen such an interest in arts and culture is because that's the easiest angle to approach these things from when we want to talk about truth-telling and reconciliation and acknowledgement of the past. It's easier to do that through artistic and cultural expressions than to approach the monster head-on. I feel like it was a natural progression.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESheldon Thomas is one palawa artist who's seen the cultural tide turn. In 2007, he was one of four people plucked from an arts course by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tmag.tas.gov.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETasmanian Museum and Art Gallery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (TMAG) to make the first traditional palawa canoe in almost 170 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Eddystone Point Lighthouse on northern tip of Bay of Fires","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUsing scans of five small 1840s canoes in the museum's collection, they puzzled together the methods for building a canoe using bark from the native stringybark tree. Their 5.35m-long canoe remains on display in TMAG, and Thomas has gone on to build canoes for the likes of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.maritimetas.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaritime Museum of Tasmania\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the biannual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hobartcity.com.au\u002FCommunity\u002FEvents-and-activities\u002FUpcoming-events\u002FAustralian-Wooden-Boat-Festival\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWooden Boat Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and a national-park installation in remote \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fparks.tas.gov.au\u002Fexplore-our-parks\u002Fsouthwest-national-park\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouthwest National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. He's currently making a canoe for the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sea.museum\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralian National Maritime Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Sydney.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of Thomas' canoes has been paddled from Bruny Island to the Tasmanian mainland, and he plans to make a three-day journey from Bruny Island to Hobart in one of the canoes in 2023.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe describes the canoe-making as a revival of one of the world's oldest traditions, a practice going back at least 40,000 years, and something that rescued him from a life of alcohol and obliteration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200706-australias-answer-to-the-northern-lights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this Australia's best-kept secret?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210117-stromatolites-the-earths-oldest-living-lifeforms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA billion-year-old living organism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210217-australias-charismatic-glider-marsupial\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAustralia's remarkable animal discovery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I wouldn't be standing here, I wouldn't be the person I am today [without it],\" he said. \"I'm so grateful.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThomas, who has also revived the painstaking practice of making rope from stringybark (a 20m-length of rope can take four months to make), says the driver for much of the new and visible cultural expression across Tasmania is legacy: the desire to hand down traditions that came so close to being lost.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think people in the community are standing up and seeing the big picture for their kids,\" he said. \"What are we going to do for them? I saw my kids and I thought, 'I need to do things for my kids, too.' That's why I want to do the canoes properly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I'm also going to teach kids because I'm getting a bit older. I'm going to get about half a dozen kids in the community and teach them how to do it properly.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETeaching has been one of the most significant changes in Tasmania's relationship with its indigenous past. In 2018, Tasmanian Aboriginal Studies was added to the senior secondary school curriculum. Palawa woman Sandra Guerzoni had been advocating for the teaching of local indigenous history and culture in schools since working as a senior curriculum officer in Aboriginal education in the 1990s. Today, she teaches Tasmanian Aboriginal Studies at Hobart's Guilford Young College.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Aboriginal shell midden in western Tasmania","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The thing that's really hard to get across when you're in schools is that this is a living culture,\" Guerzoni said. \"There's contemporary Aboriginal culture &ndash; it didn't just die.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think kids need to see both sides of the story. It's not about taking land back, it's about delivering a course for the right reasons and looking to unpack what really happened and the repercussions.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was a change that came too late for the schooling of Carleeta Thomas, but her learning journey goes on. When she started guiding with wukalina Walk in 2018, she knew little about her own culture, despite growing up on Cape Barren Island, where the one township is an Aboriginal community. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn working for wukalina Walk, she says she's rediscovered her connection to the old ways, country and culture. She's sat with the Aunties &ndash; the female \u003Cem\u003Epalawa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E elders &ndash; learning the intricate art of shell stringing, and grown from a shy island child to a confident woman who can express and share her people's living stories to those who want to walk and learn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I guess our spirit in lutruwita has obviously died a little bit because there haven't been constant practices of our culture","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"By bringing guests out on country and showing them how much we've been able to keep intact and changing people's views and perceptions of our community, that's one of the most amazing things for me,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I guess our spirit in \u003Cem\u003Elutruwita\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Tasmania) has obviously died a little bit because there haven't been constant practices of our culture. And that's heart breaking to me. To be a young community member, to know a little bit of what I know, and to be able to share that with people, that's an amazing feeling.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"section-header-textdescription\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Ftravel-journeys\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETravel Journeys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that transports you to some of the most breathtaking landscapes, far-flung locations and fascinating cultures on Earth.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-10-25T10:35:20Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The rebirth of Tasmanian indigenous culture","headlineShort":"The Australian myth being disproved","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Colourful coastline on Flinders Island, part of the Furneaux island group","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-42.0409","longitude":"146.8087","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"Colourful coastline on Flinders Island, part of the Furneaux island group","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Although many people believe that this ancient culture and people were lost, recent years have seen a seismic shift in recognition for indigenous Tasmanians.","summaryShort":"People are often told that this ancient culture and people have disappeared","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-10-24T22:35:46.290468Z","entity":"article","guid":"b4a3d923-38f4-48db-9ef0-da1a7b432a1d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-07T04:33:41.793012Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-rebirth-of-tasmanian-indigenous-culture","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442537},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know","_id":"64a4615fa471ef0d587a7676","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Torres Strait Islander people have a rich cultural identity unique to that of Aboriginal Australians, yet few travellers will have heard of them.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs I stepped off the ferry onto Thursday Island's main wharf, a gust of wind nearly lifted my sunglasses into the deceptively idyllic Torres Strait &ndash; its notoriously shallow waters and razor-sharp reefs have claimed many a ship since Spaniard Lu&iacute;s Vaz de Torres became the first European to navigate this remote passage at Australia's northern tip in 1606.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The south-east trade winds can get up to 40km per hour during winter, then we get the wild north-westerly winds in the summer that bring the storms,\" said local guide Sue Johns, as fellow ferry passengers filed onto her waiting tour bus. \"That's 12 months of bad hair days,\" she joked as we rumbled off around the small, hilly isle.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe administrative capital of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-34037235\"\u003ETorres Strait Islands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Thursday Island (locally known as \"TI\") is one of more than 200 islands that once formed part of a land bridge between Queensland's Cape York Peninsula and modern-day Papua New Guinea. That changed around 8,000 years ago, when rising sea levels flooded the landscape at the end of the last Ice Age.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHome to around half of the Torres Strait's 6,000-odd residents, approximately 80% of whom identify as indigenous, TI is not your typical tropical island holiday destination. There are no backpacker hostels or family resorts. With saltwater crocodiles patrolling TI's beaches, it's too risky to take a dip. And then there's the relentless wind. But there's still a great reason to visit this faraway corner of Australia, some 2,700km north of Brisbane. And I'm not talking about the opportunity to drink a pint in Australia's northernmost pub, the Torres Hotel, alongside FIFO (fly in, fly out) workers, most of whom come to work in government jobs ranging from health to defence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tsra.gov.au\u002Fthe-torres-strait\u002Fcommunity-profiles\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EKnown as \"Waiben\" to the Kaurareg people of the Inner (or Southern) Islands &ndash; which is one of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tsra.gov.au\u002Fthe-torres-strait\u002Fcommunity-profiles\"\u003Efive island clusters\u003C\u002Fa\u003E represented by the five-pointed star of the Torres Strait Islander flag &ndash; TI is the most accessible place to experience Torres Strait Islander culture in its birthplace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf Melanesian descent, Torres Strait Islander people have a long history of trading with the people of Papua New Guinea and the Aboriginal communities of Cape York. But they have cultural and linguistic traditions of their own, which vary between each island group and the 18 indigenous communities within them. While most non-indigenous Australians are familiar with key elements of mainland Aboriginal culture and history, few will have heard of Tagai, a key creator deity represented by a constellation of stars in the southern sky that forms the cornerstone of Torres Strait Islanders' spiritual beliefs. Or that, unlike the Aboriginal concept of Dreaming or Dreamtime, Torres Strait Islander culture distinguishes between four main time periods.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith stops at the 19th-Century \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.queensland.com\u002Fus\u002Fen\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fattractions\u002Fp-5aaa3972a7e66eea2fcd5975-green-hill-fort\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGreen Hill Fort\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, now a museum, and the island's cemetery, its sprawling Japanese section a reminder of TI's once-prosperous pearling industry, Johns' \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpeddellsferry.com.au\u002Fthursday-island-historic-scenic-bus-tours\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offers a great primer on the history and culture of the Torres Strait, which is also the birthplace of the late Eddie Koiki Mabo, a pioneer of Australia's indigenous land rights movement. There's more to discover on TI than can be squeezed into a day trip, though given the eyewatering cost of hotel rooms, I wasn't surprised to be one of the only tourists left on the island when the afternoon ferry departed for the 70-minute trip to the mainland port of Seisia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlong with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.theguardian.com\u002Faustralia-news\u002F2020\u002Fmar\u002F01\u002Fits-our-right-to-be-here-the-torres-strait-islanders-fighting-to-save-their-homes-from-a-rising-sea\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eclimate change impacts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftheconversation.com\u002Fcoronavirus-is-killing-australias-lobster-export-market-131750\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eblow to the Torres Strait's lucrative rock lobster industry\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dealt by the coronavirus pandemic, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Fnews\u002F2020-10-27\u002Ftorres-strait-islanders-blame-government-for-housing-cost\u002F12812836\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erising cost of island living\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is an increasing threat to the continuity of Australia's lesser-known indigenous culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Young people are also leaving due to a lack of opportunities, and many of them don't come back,\" said Rosie Ware, an award-winning Torres Strait Islander textiles artist, whose \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rosiewaredesigns.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehome studio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Hargrave Street can be visited on weekdays. Ware is passionate about engaging the younger generation in Torres Strait Islander culture through her art, some of which takes inspiration from family Totem animals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Every Saturday I stick a table downtown, like a little pop-up shop, and these young kids will walk past,\" she told me. \"I ask them, 'Do you want to look at \u003Cem\u003Eaka\u003C\u002Fem\u003E's &ndash; which means grandmother's &ndash; art?' And they walk away with that art, that culture, in their little heads.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Young people are also leaving due to a lack of opportunities, and many of them don't come back","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gabtitui.gov.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003ENear TI's wharf is the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gabtitui.gov.au\u002F\"\u003EGab Titui Cultural Centre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the main keeping place for the artefacts and stories of the Torres Strait. During my visit, a superb temporary exhibition charted the impacts of Christianity, with exhibits including a collection of Yumplatok&nbsp;(Torres Strait Creole) \"baibols\" (bibles).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile not all Islanders readily embraced the arrival of the London Missionary Society on 1 July 1871, Christianity remains the dominant religion, with the Coming of the Light holiday celebrated on 1 July each year among the most important days on the region&rsquo;s festival calendar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Torres Strait Islands&rsquo; conversion to Christianity essentially brought an end to cultural traditions such as witchcraft and headhunting; the ritual practice of taking the head of one&rsquo;s enemy with a bamboo knife known as an \u003Cem\u003Eupi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E having earned Islanders a feared reputation among early European explorers to the region. Christianity has also been credited by historians for tempering inter-island warfare, yet the warrior culture of the Torres Strait continues to run deep.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust a 15-minute ferry ride from Thursday Island, larger, more rugged and sparsely populated Horn Island (Ngarupai) is just one place to learn more about this warrior culture, along with a forgotten chapter of Australia's military history. Only the most dedicated history buffs will have heard of the Torres Strait Light Infantry Battalion stationed on Horn Island (home to the region&rsquo;s main airport) during World War Two, when it was the most attacked Australian territory after Darwin.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\"Almost every single Torres Strait Islander man of fighting age &ndash; 880 of them &ndash; enlisted to defend Australia,\" said tour guide Vanessa Seekee, who has dedicated her life to preserving the region's war heritage since arriving on Horn Island as a teacher in 1994, finding it littered with relics. \"That means every family knows someone who served in World War Two.\" More than 150 military personnel, and 80 civilians, lost their lives during the conflict.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe stories of Australia's only all-indigenous battalion are remembered at the excellent \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fflugelhorn-parakeet-3npg.squarespace.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETorres Strait Heritage Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E founded by Seekee and her husband Liberty. A visit is included on Seekee's riveting \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fflugelhorn-parakeet-3npg.squarespace.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHorn Island WW2 tour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which took me to several sites, including an anti-aircraft battery at King Point, that have been restored as part of the couple's Horn Island WW2 Conservation Project. Near the airport, the remains of a crashed B-17 bomber &ndash; complete with a paperbark tree growing out of the fuselage &ndash; was next on the list.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravelling to more remote Torres Strait Islands communities, most of which are accessed by plane, requires seeking permission from the relevant local council. An easier way to visit is on an adventure cruise with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.coralexpeditions.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECoral Expeditions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Its itineraries take in Badu and Moa Islands, part of the Western Islands group, which are home to renowned art centres showcasing the vibrant artistic traditions of the Torres Strait including weaving and lino printmaking. Warfare was once one of the main occupations of Badu men &ndash; look for skull motifs in prints representing the artists&rsquo; heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut island-hopping isn't the only way to experience Torres Strait Islander culture. In 1947, king tides wreaked havoc on Saibai Island, just 4km from Papua New Guinea, prompting an exodus of families to the mainland communities now known as Seisia and Bamaga. The latter is home to the indigenous-owned \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cypl.com.au\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECape York Peninsula Lodge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, where renowned Torres Strait Islander dance troupe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FNaygayiwGigi\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENaygayiw Gigi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Northern Thunder) often perform captivating routines rooted in Saibai traditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"So much of our culture is stored in stories, and expressing these stories though dance and song is a way to maintain our culture, and our language, which is really important because language is something that's in rapid decline,\" the troupe's manager Leonora Adidi told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"So much of our culture is stored in stories, and expressing these stories though dance and song is a way to maintain our culture","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sbs.com.au\u002Fondemand\u002Fprogram\u002Fstrait-to-the-plate\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EIn contrast, another important part of Torres Strait Islander culture that is experiencing something of a renaissance is food. Launched on Australian TV in 2021, the region's first culinary series \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sbs.com.au\u002Fondemand\u002Fprogram\u002Fstrait-to-the-plate\"\u003EStrait to the Plate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E introduced audiences to a largely unknown cuisine, influenced by centuries of trade with everyone from Pacific Islanders to the Japanese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMer (Murray) Island-born chef Nornie Bero has also had a hand in lifting the profile of Torres Strait Islander cuisine following the success of her Melbourne restaurant and bar \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mabumabu.com.au\u002Fdining\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBig Esso\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Biggest Thank You), which opened in 2021.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile traditional dishes are more commonly served in the home in the Torres Strait, there are a handful of places where visitors can enjoy a literal taste of local culture. Tucking into a plate of \u003Cem\u003Enamas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E &ndash; a fragrant ceviche-like dish made by curing raw fish in coconut milk &ndash; on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rokopearls.com.au\u002Fthe-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoko Island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a former pearl farm transformed into a rustic glamping stay just a short boat ride from Seisia, I couldn&rsquo;t believe I&rsquo;d never seen this delicious appetiser on an Australian restaurant menu before. No doubt there&rsquo;s much more to Australia&rsquo;s &lsquo;other&rsquo; indigenous culture we&rsquo;d do well to know. &nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-06-01T22:10:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The indigenous Australians few know","headlineShort":"The indigenous Australians few know","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"-10.579917","longitude":"142.2211","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Torres Strait Islander people have a rich cultural identity unique to that of Aboriginal Australians, yet few travellers will have heard of them.","summaryShort":"They have a rich cultural identity unique to that of Aboriginal Australians","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-05-31T22:11:41.179852Z","entity":"article","guid":"499f699f-45fc-4195-945a-ae72a30da53c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know","modifiedDateTime":"2022-06-09T10:56:26.309272Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220531-the-indigenous-australians-few-know","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442538},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue","_id":"64a46161a471ef0d4279367e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Cookbook author Bricia Lopez's smoky marinated chicken gets flavour from chillies, citrus and spices and pairs perfectly with a spicy beer-based michelada cocktail.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECarne asada, as many people know it, is grilled marinated steak, often eaten in a taco or burrito. But in Mexico and Los Angeles, carne asada is also a social event. The asada is in essence a barbecue, where a smoking grill serves as the focal point for anywhere from six to 60 people gathered on a warm night in a back garden or at the local park. The meal includes sizzling marinated meats, seafood, rice, beans, salsas and ice-cold beer cocktails.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the Mexican communities living in Los Angeles, asadas are a joyful nod to their heritage and a time to gather. \"Asadas are about love, friendship,&nbsp;family and community,\" said Bricia Lopez, author of the new cookbook \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abramsbooks.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fasada_9781419762888\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsada: The Art of Mexican Grilling\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.&nbsp;\"Every Mexican household has a big asada. It's a moment for us to get together with family.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Pollo in Guajillo\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELopez was born in Oaxaca but moved to Los Angeles when she was 10. In 1994, her family opened a Oaxacan restaurant called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ilovemole.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGuelaguetza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which she currently runs with her three siblings. In 2019, Lopez wrote her first book, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ilovemole.com\u002Foaxacacookbook\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, celebrating her family history and the vibrant food of the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer inspiration for the second book stemmed from an article on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomberg.com\u002Fnews\u002Ffeatures\u002F2020-07-02\u002Fno-more-burgers-and-dogs-for-the-4th-of-july-new-food-traditions#xj4y7vzkg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBloomberg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that featured the components of her asada. \"I saw the pictures in the article, and I realised how much I missed doing the asadas in 2020 and 2021 [during the pandemic],\" she said. \"I realised there are plenty of Mexican cookbooks, but not one about the meaning of asada.\" The book offers dozens of recipes for anyone looking for asada cooking guidance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Lopez in her book, the Mexican tradition of carne asada (as a dish) stems to the 16th Century, when Spanish Jesuit colonisers settled in northern and north-eastern Mexico, developing the cattle industry and making beef a mainstay of the local diet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was in the early 20th Century when asadas first started smoking in American backyards and parks. \"When immigrants from Mexico started to come to the US in the 1900s, they brought along with them their love of grilled carne asada,\" Lopez wrote in her book. \"The earliest mention of a \u003Cem\u003Ecarniceria \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(markets that sell marinated meats) in the US in print publications goes back to 1930.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe most common meat at an asada is \u003Cem\u003Eranchera\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (flap steak, also known as bavette steak or sirloin butt), but other meats like chorizo, lamb, pork and chicken are typically in rotation. For the poultry eaters in her group, Lopez makes \u003Cem\u003Epollo in guajillo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: crispy chilli-marinated chicken thighs. The cinnamon and guajillo chilli (\"a very safe, well-balanced chilli that's a pantry staple in Mexico,\" she noted) are reminiscent of Oaxaca, but the vinegar in the marinade is an LA touch, inspired by the vinegary-marinated meats common in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.foodnetwork.com\u002Fhow-to\u002Fpackages\u002Ffood-network-essentials\u002Fwhat-is-barbacoa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebarbacoa cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is popular in LA. \"The chicken is a perfect combo of smoky and sweet,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's not a proper asada without beer, and Lopez is a very big proponent of the \u003Cem\u003Emichelada \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(she sells a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstore.ilovemole.com\u002Fcollections\u002Ffeatured-products\u002Fproducts\u002Fpre-rimmed-michelada-party-pack\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epremade mix\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in retail stores), a drink made with cold beer, lime juice, hot sauce, Worcestershire and spices. It's sometimes made with tomato juice as well. \"It is one of the most delicious drinks that Mexico ever gave the world, but it's \u003Cem\u003Enever\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a Bloody Mary'' Lopez emphasised. \"It's a drink in its own right. The goal is to uplift the beer and make it spicy, tangy and salty, so you want to have three, four, five beers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe morita chilli in the michelada is a unique touch. \"Because this is a grilling book,\" she said, \"I wanted to bring a smoky flavour to the drink\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELopez said that any grill can be used for an asada, but the most common one is a simple charcoal grill because it provides the requisite smoky flavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo matter what grill you use, what meat you cook, or where you are, Lopez reminds us: \"Throwing a carne asada is an act of love.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Pollo in Guajillo\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPollo in Guajillo&nbsp;recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Bricia Lopez\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EServes 4\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E12 guajillo chillies (50g\u002F1&frac34;oz), stems and seeds removed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; large white onion (150g\u002F5&frac14;oz), roughly chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E8 cloves garlic, peeled\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; tsp black peppercorns (about 12 peppercorns)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 whole clove\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp dried Mexican oregano\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp grapeseed oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; cup (60ml) orange juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp seasoned rice vinegar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp fresh lime juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; tsp ground cinnamon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1&frac12; tbsp sea salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E910g (2lb) bone-in chicken thighs\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a cast-iron skillet over medium heat, lightly toast the chillies, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Remove from the skillet and set aside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn the same skillet, add the onion and garlic, turning once or twice until they are lightly charred, about 10 minutes. Remove from the skillet and set aside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAdd the peppercorns, clove, and dried oregano to the pan and lightly toast until they are aromatic, about 2 minutes. Transfer the toasted spices and oregano to a molcajete or spice grinder and grind until finely ground.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a high-performance blender or food processor, add the toasted chillies, onion, garlic, ground spices and oregano, oil, orange juice, rice vinegar, lime juice, cinnamon, and salt. Blend until most of the chillies have come apart.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPat the chicken dry with paper towels. Using a gallon-size resealable bag, add the marinade and the chicken. Seal and let sit in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes or overnight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 6\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERemove the chicken thighs in their marinade from the fridge to allow them to reach room temperature before grilling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 7\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EStart a charcoal or gas grill. The gas should be set to high. If using a pellet grill, preheat your grill to 230C (450F) for at least 15 minutes. If using charcoal, the coals should be red but entirely covered with grey ash.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 8\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERemove the chicken from the marinade and put them on the grill directly over the medium fire, skin side up. Close the lid and cook, turning once, about 15 minutes on each side. The chicken is cooked when its internal temperature reaches 79C (175F) on a meat thermometer. Transfer the meat to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca id=\"&quot;&lt;strong\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EMorita Michelada recipe\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Ca\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Bricia Lopez\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMakes enough for 6 micheladas\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E2 dried morita chillies\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E180ml (6oz) tomato juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E120ml (4oz) orange juice, preferably freshly squeezed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E60ml (2oz) fresh lime juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1&frac14; tbsp sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp sea salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; tsp freshly ground black pepper\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 tbsp Worcestershire sauce\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Echile-lime salt, for rimming glasses\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ecold Mexican lager (can substitute lime- or grapefruit-flavoured sparkling water for a non-alcoholic version)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EFill a small saucepan with enough water to cover the chillies and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the chillies to the hot water and allow them to soften and get tender, about 20 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERemove the chillies from the water and allow them to cool to room temperature. Put the chillies in a blender and add the tomato juice, orange juice, lime juice, sugar, salt, pepper, and Worcestershire sauce. Blend everything until smooth, then strain through a fine mesh sieve into a cup with a pouring spout.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERim a cold beer glass with the chilli-lime salt. Pour about 85 ml (3 oz) of the michelada mix into a beer glass, add 350ml (12oz) cold lager, and stir to combine. Serve cold.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Reprinted from Asada: The Art of Mexican-Style Grilling&nbsp;by Bricia Lopez with Javier Cabral [Abrams]\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-05T10:38:22Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Asada: The true essence of Mexican barbecue","headlineShort":"The real meaning of carne asada","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"34.0524074","longitude":"-118.3006681","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Cookbook author Bricia Lopez's smoky marinated chicken gets flavour from chillies, citrus and spices and pairs perfectly with a spicy beer-based michelada cocktail.","summaryShort":"It's about gathering around the grill for sizzling meat and icy beer cocktails","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-04T19:38:46.644726Z","entity":"article","guid":"31cbee9c-d8f0-4e6a-9437-41427abd02dd","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-06T07:47:41.313518Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442538},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-gregg-wallaces-prawn-tacos-with-pineapple-salsa":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-gregg-wallaces-prawn-tacos-with-pineapple-salsa","_id":"64a46178a471ef0d4d3b9a29","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Television presenter Gregg Wallace has created an easy Coronation recipe, featuring garlic- and paprika-seasoned prawns and pineapple salsa with crushed chilli and coriander.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESaid to be a favourite of King Charles, Oeufs Drumkilbo is a mix between a prawn cocktail and egg mayonnaise, featuring lobster, anchovy essence, fish stock, gelatine and tomatoes in addition to eggs, prawns and mayonnaise. While this may be a step above the usual prawn cocktail or prawn mayonnaise sandwiches that are frequently found at street parties, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgreggwallace.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGregg Wallace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the television presenter best known for his work on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb006t1k5\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMasterChef\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, has created an easy-to-follow recipe for the Coronation that promises a more interesting way to use prawns than the classic dishes above.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Prawn Taco with Pineapple Salsa recipe, featuring garlic- and paprika-seasoned prawns and pineapple salsa with crushed chilli and coriander, is delicious and quick to make, meaning you won't miss out on the Coronation celebrations. Made with healthy ingredients, it's a great addition to a celebratory buffet and offers something different to a standard sandwich.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESpeaking about contributing the recipe to the Coronation festivities, Wallace said. \"I'm absolutely delighted to play even a tiny part in his majesty's Coronation celebration. It's a very easy, and more importantly, healthy recipe so do get stuck in.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe recipe is for three tacos, but the quantities can be adjusted to make more as they're sure to be in demand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-gregg-wallaces-prawn-tacos-with-pineapple-salsa-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-gregg-wallaces-prawn-tacos-with-pineapple-salsa-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPrawn Tacos with Pineapple Salsa recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Gregg Wallace\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMakes 3 tacos\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-gregg-wallaces-prawn-tacos-with-pineapple-salsa-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E3 taco shells\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ered onion\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ehandful of coriander\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E200g pineapple chunks (fresh or tinned)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp crushed chilli\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Eolive oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ejuice of a lemon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E150g king prawns (fresh or frozen), cooked\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp garlic powder\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Epinch of paprika\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ehandful of rocket\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Esour cream\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-gregg-wallaces-prawn-tacos-with-pineapple-salsa-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPre-heat your oven according to the instructions on your taco shell packet. Put your tacos into the oven and cook according to the instructions on your packet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETo make the pineapple salsa, cut onion in half (you only need half an onion for this recipe), then peel and dice the onion. Pull the coriander leaves off the stems and chop them up. Cut up the pineapple into small, bite sized chunks and add it to a mixing bowl along with the onion and coriander. Add the crushed chilli, a drizzle of olive oil and the fresh lemon juice to your salsa and give it a good mix.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EFor the prawns, in a clean bowl, mix the cooked prawns with the garlic powder and paprika until fully coated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETo serve, build your taco by layering rocket, salsa, prawns and spoonful of sour cream on top.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYou can find out more about each of the Coronation recipes below, including tips on making them:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMore coronation recipes:\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-royal-chef-mark-flanagans-coronation-quiche\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChef Mark Flanagan's Coronation quiche\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-nadiya-hussains-coronation-aubergine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENadiya Hussain's Coronation aubergine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-ken-homs-coronation-asian-style-roast-rack-of-lamb\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKen Hom's Coronation roast rack of lamb\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-adam-handlings-coronation-strawberry-and-ginger-trifle\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAdam Handling's Coronation trifle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"20230430-coronation-chicken-the-story-behind-the-royal-dish\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELe Condon Bleu London's coronation chicken\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230503-marthas-collisons-coronation-crown-scones\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMartha Collison's Coronation crown scones\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230427-violet-bakerys-new-cookbook-love-is-a-pink-cake\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClaire Ptak's brown sugar Victoria Sponge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-gregg-wallaces-prawn-tacos-with-pineapple-salsa-4"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-01T07:39:28.28Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Gregg Wallace's prawn tacos with pineapple salsa","headlineShort":"Prawn tacos with pineapple salsa","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Television presenter Gregg Wallace has created an easy Coronation recipe, featuring garlic- and paprika-seasoned prawns and pineapple salsa with crushed chilli and coriander.","summaryShort":"They're seasoned with garlic and paprika, with crushed chilli and coriander","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-01T07:40:10.717019Z","entity":"article","guid":"04cbd02f-3a54-4a3a-a676-5a6fb12f0373","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-gregg-wallaces-prawn-tacos-with-pineapple-salsa","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-03T21:59:55.631868Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-gregg-wallaces-prawn-tacos-with-pineapple-salsa","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442538},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230703-sonoran-style-shrimp-tacos":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230703-sonoran-style-shrimp-tacos","_id":"64a46162a471ef30a70f6e12","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Tortilla-making is an art that requires just as much craft as baking a loaf of sourdough or a flaky croissant, and one Kansas City bakery is thought to make the \"best\" in the US.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a child in Sonora, Mexico, Marissa Gencarelli took good tortillas for granted. She didn't have to make them at home &ndash; there were tortillerias on almost every corner passing fresh flour and corn tortillas through an open window.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut when she moved to Kansas City, Missouri, with her husband, Mark, she found a void. The city had plenty of tortillerias, but few were using heirloom nixtamal &ndash; corn steeped in an alkaline solution that unlocks more of the corn's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.texasmonthly.com\u002Ffood\u002Ftex-mexplainer-nixtamalization-is-the-3500-year-old-secret-to-great-tortillas\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eflavour and nutrients\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the nixtamalisation process dates back to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthenewgastronome.com\u002Fthe-witchcraft-of-nixtamalization\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eancient Mesoamerica\u003C\u002Fa\u003E). Even fewer were making the thin, chewy, Sonoran-style flour tortillas she craved. If Marissa wanted a tortilla that reminded her of home, she was going to have to make her own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Sonoran-Style Shrimp Tacos recipe\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd she did. The Gencarellis started feverishly testing recipes in their home kitchen, punctuated by some time in her hometown of Obreg&oacute;n training under her friend Enrique Rodriguez, who ran a tortilleria next to the Guadalupe church. The hard work paid off. In 2017, the Gencarellis launched \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.eatyoli.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYoli Tortilleria\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Kansas City. And this past June, Yoli won the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230605-james-beard-award-winners-2023\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJames Beard Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E's coveted \"Outstanding Bakery\" award &ndash; the first tortilleria ever to win the national award.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo the Gencarellis, the James Beard award was an important institutional recognition of something they'd known all along: that tortilla-making is an art (and a science) that requires just as much dedication and craft as baking a loaf of sourdough or a flaky croissant.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Immigrant food always gets undervalued,\" said Marissa. \"Everybody wants dollar tacos, or whatever it is nowadays. And [the award] just puts it into a different level and perspective, where the rest of the world is going to learn to value the tortilla because now it's being recognised at that level.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230703-sonoran-style-shrimp-tacos-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230703-sonoran-style-shrimp-tacos-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe James Beard award was also an important recognition of the work they've already done to teach Americans how to think about the tacos on their plate. The void of great tortillas in Kansas City may have presented a business opportunity, but it was also, Marissa said, \"a huge mountain to climb\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Really challenging,\" Mark agreed. \"More than we ever anticipated.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe challenge? Consumers in Kansas City were used to cheap commodity tortillas &ndash; the sweet, stick-to-your-teeth variety laced with additives to soften them and extend their shelf life. The Gencarellis knew they were going to have to essentially create a market for what (then) seemed like a specialty product. They started offering \"tortilla tastings\" at a suburban farmer's market to introduce customers to the flavour and to different types of corn.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThey also were careful to instruct both chefs and home cooks on how to cook with their tortillas. \"You have to do high heat, fast,\" Marissa said. \"If you have a tortilla that has a lot of softeners and additives, you can just put it on the griddle and it can be there for a long time without getting hard. With a nixtamal tortilla, you have to go fast.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the early days of the business, the Gencarellis would wake up at 03:00 to nixtamalise corn or press the tortillas before heading to their full-time corporate day jobs. Now, they're all in: they run an expansive (and expanding) manufacturing facility, operate a cosy retail store in a historically Latino neighbourhood of Kansas City, and manage about 15 employees.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisit the retail store today and you're likely to be offered a blistered Sonoran-style flour tortilla, hot off the griddle, to eat while you shop. That's the style of tortilla most associated with Sonora, a northern Mexican state with robust wheat production &ndash; and, accordingly, a preference for flour over corn. But there's room for both types in the state, in Marissa's shop and in northern Mexican cuisine. One of Marissa's favourite roadside meals growing up in Obreg&oacute;n, she said, was a shrimp breakfast taco served on a fresh white corn tortilla.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough the flavours are appropriate for any time of day, Marissa considers it a breakfast taco in part because the tacos would sell out long before the lunch crowds arrived. She and her father &ndash; a boxer-turned-lawyer with a hearty appetite &ndash; would try to visit a particular bicycle vendor as soon as he set up shop at 09:00.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There was no official \u003Cem\u003Ecarreta\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [cart] like some of the corner \u003Cem\u003Etaqueros\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [taco sellers] have,\" she said. \"This guy literally had buckets of shrimp hanging out of his bike and then a metal trash can contraption filled with oil where he would fry the shrimp over a wood fire.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat particular taquero is no longer peddling shrimp in Obreg&oacute;n. But his tacos were the last meal Marissa shared with her father before his death in a car accident, making the dish even more poignant and urgent for her to preserve.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMarissa's version of the taquero's recipe stays true to the key elements &ndash; golden brown fried shrimp, crisp confetti strips of cabbage, bright pickled onions and a nutty salsa \u003Cem\u003Emarisquera negra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (black seafood salsa) to dot on top.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It holds a lot of meaning to me,\" she said. \"I had to recreate it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230703-sonoran-style-shrimp-tacos-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230703-sonoran-style-shrimp-tacos-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Sonoran-Style Shrimp Tacos recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESonoran-Style Shrimp Tacos recipe\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Marissa Gencarelli\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMakes 10 tacos\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230703-sonoran-style-shrimp-tacos-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor the pickled onions:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E1 tsp fine sea salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 red onion, thinly sliced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; cup unseasoned rice vinegar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; cup apple cider vinegar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Epinch of oregano, preferably Mexican oregano\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor the salsa marisquera negra (black seafood salsa):\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E12 chillies de arbol (dried)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 ancho chillies\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac34; cup grapeseed oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; cup olive oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; cup raw peanuts\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E10 black garlic cloves, chopped (see Note)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 raw garlic cloves, finely chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp granulated sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp fine sea salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E⅛ cup white wine vinegar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp soy sauce\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp lime juice\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor the fried shrimp:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&frac12; cup all-purpose flour\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; cup cornflour\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp smoked paprika\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp of granulated tomato bouillon (if unavailable, sub chicken bouillon)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; tsp fine sea salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac34; cup sparkling water\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E450g (1lb) peeled and deveined medium shrimp\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ewood skewers\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Evegetable oil for frying (about 2 litres\u002F&frac12; gallon)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor assembling the tacos:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003Emayonnaise, preferably Kewpie brand\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; head white cabbage, very thinly sliced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E10 white corn tortillas\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230703-sonoran-style-shrimp-tacos-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETo make the pickled onions, in a bowl, sprinkle salt on the sliced onions and let rest for 5 minutes. Add both vinegars and the oregano and mix well. Let the onions rest while you prepare the rest of the meal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETo make the salsa marisquera nega, remove the stems from all the dried chillies and remove the seeds from the ancho chillies only. Cut the ancho chillies into thin strips.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a large saucepan, heat the grapeseed and olive oils to 175C\u002F350F. Add the raw peanuts and fry until toasted, about 2 minutes; remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a kitchen paper-lined plate. Add the chillies to the oil until crisp, about 2 minutes. To the chillies, add all of the garlic, sugar and salt; stir until sugar has dissolved. Turn off the heat and add the vinegar, soy sauce, and lime juice. Transfer to a blender with the peanuts and blend until smooth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETo make the shrimp, heat the vegetable oil to 190C\u002F375F in a heavy-bottomed pot. While the oil heats, sift the flour, cornflour, smoked paprika, bouillon and sea salt through a fine mesh strainer into a bowl; discard any clumps. Add the sparkling water to the dry ingredients and stir until smooth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ESlide a skewer through the head and tail of each shrimp, ensuring the shrimp is straight. (You can fry up to 2 shrimp on each skewer.) Dip the shrimp in batter until coated and fry until golden-brown, about 2-3 minutes. Remove the skewers from oil and place on a paper-lined plate to drain. Let the shrimp cool for 1 minute before removing from skewers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 6\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETo assemble the tacos, warm the corn tortillas in a dry frying pan over high heat, no more than 30 seconds per side. Spread about 1 tsp of mayonnaise on each tortilla and add pieces of 2 shrimp. Top with sliced cabbage and pickled onions and drizzle with the salsa marisquera negra.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENote\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EBlack garlic is aged fresh garlic that has a rich, sweet-savoury flavour. If you are unable to get black garlic, the best sub would be 10 cloves of roasted garlic mixed with a splash of balsamic vinegar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230703-sonoran-style-shrimp-tacos-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-07-04T14:18:08Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Sonoran-Style Shrimp Tacos","headlineShort":"Nopales (prickly pear cactus) tacos","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.0713528","longitude":"-94.6089651","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Tortilla-making is an art that requires just as much craft as baking a loaf of sourdough or a flaky croissant, and one Kansas City bakery is thought to make the \"best\" in the US.","summaryShort":"They're mixed with tomatoes and spooned into tortillas with creamy goat cheese","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-07-04T00:47:04.063543Z","entity":"article","guid":"957d727d-a328-49c2-87c5-5632720132c7","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230703-sonoran-style-shrimp-tacos","modifiedDateTime":"2023-08-08T18:22:29.395374Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230703-sonoran-style-shrimp-tacos","cacheLastUpdated":1692603442539},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230721-prickly-pear-cactus-tacos":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230721-prickly-pear-cactus-tacos","_id":"64ba83f2a471ef2ea30cc1c7","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnicole-melancon"],"bodyIntro":"In Mexico, nopales (prickly pear cacti) are mixed with tomatoes into a bright salad and spooned into tortillas with creamy goat cheese and two types of fresh salsa.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERita Garcia rose to an inky black sky peppered with stars. Quietly, she grabbed a small flashlight on her bedside table, slipped on her shoes, and walked out into the warm desert air to a covered makeshift kitchen. Inside, Garcia sat down on a plastic chair, reached into a large bucket, and carefully grabbed the first \u003Cem\u003Enopal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (pad of a prickly pear cactus) in just the right place to avoid its thorns. Using a small pocketknife, she skilfully made swift, angled motions turning the pear-shaped \u003Cem\u003Enopal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E ever so slightly to cut off the thorns to perfection.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce completed, Garcia tossed it into a burlap sack and continued. It was just 03:00 and she had only three more hours until the truck arrived at her family's small ranch to collect her precious cargo &ndash; 11 bags in all &ndash; and bring them to the market. Like her ancestors, Garcia is continuing a long-held tradition of harvesting nopales, one of Mexico's most beloved food staples.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Nopales Tacos recipe\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat took Garcia only five seconds took me, the unskilled guest, five minutes &ndash; and I still didn't get it right. Garcia laughed when I showed her my butchered nopal. Despite its appearance, it worked just fine as part of the \u003Cem\u003Eensalada de nopales\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (cactus salad) we prepared for our farm-to-table lunch at her family ranch, El Barranco, located 30 miles north of Cabo San Lucas in Mexico's Baja Peninsula.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230721-prickly-pear-cactus-tacos-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1d9jv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Photo of Rita Garcia preparing the cactus pad","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230721-prickly-pear-cactus-tacos-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKnown as one of the most traditional ingredients in Mexico, nopales are making a comeback. This nutritional food can be found almost everywhere &ndash; from Mexican homes, \u003Cem\u003Etaqueros\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (taco vendors), restaurants and cooking classes to now infiltrating America's Southwestern cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The nopal cactus comes from a Nahuatl word \u003Cem\u003E'nohpalli'\u003C\u002Fem\u003E dating back to pre-Columbian times,\" said Danny Perez, our guide from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dharmaexpeditions.com.mx\u002Ftours\u002Ffarm-to-table-cooking-class\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDharma Expeditions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Los Cabos-based outfitter that connects travellers with the \u003Cem\u003Eranchero \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(rancher) community for a traditional cooking class. \"This cactus is deeply woven into our culture and national identity,\" Danny explained as we toured Garcia's family farm. \"It can be found on our flag, in art, and even within ancient mythology based on the founding of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20221009-the-return-of-aztec-floating-farms\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETenochtitl&aacute;n\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the ancient Aztec capital, and modern-day Mexico City. It is very symbolic for the Mexican people.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we walked past the goats, the native desert scrubs and a small family garden, it was easy to see why the cactus has become so embedded in Mexican life. It grows everywhere, reproduces easily and flourishes even in harsh climates like Mexico's Baja Peninsula. In a place that receives very little rain, cacti not only survive but also thrive &ndash; just like Garcia and her ancestors who have lived and worked off this arid, inhospitable land for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Garcia showed us how to pick out the perfectly ripe nopal pad &ndash; the ones that are young and vibrant, almost electric green in colour &ndash; she told us that nopals are the most tender and juicy in the spring but can be harvested year-round.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the taste of a slightly tangy green bean and its ability to be added to almost every meal, nopales have been an important dietary staple for centuries. They are extremely healthy, nutritious and versatile. Packed with vitamins, minerals and dietary fibre, one nopal pad can fill a hungry stomach for hours, Garcia explained. That is why they can be found as a mainstay in almost every Mexican home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You can do everything with this cactus,\" said Garcia while she helped us prepare our meal. \"You can boil it, grill it, eat it raw as a juice or add it to a stew, salsas or eggs.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It is a Mexican 'superfood',\" her daughter Joycelyn laughed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230721-prickly-pear-cactus-tacos-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1dbh8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Photo of Rita and Jocelyn Garcia","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230721-prickly-pear-cactus-tacos-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBesides the pad, nopales also bear a small oval-shaped fruit called the \u003Cem\u003Etuna\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which has a sweet taste that's similar to watermelon and is used in juices, cocktails and jellies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs we assembled the tomatoes, onions, garlic and coriander for the salad&ndash; all picked fresh from the farm &ndash; we had a quick lesson in slicing nopales from Jocelyn. \"Hold them steady while you slice, first lengthwise and then across the width,\" she instructed. Nopales are notoriously sticky and gooey as they are filled with mucilage, a thick gluey substance that is the keeper of the cactus' fibre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe boiled our coveted nopales over a traditional charcoal grill and waited. Ten minutes later, the nopales were cooked to perfection, drained, and left to cool. We prepared the salad while Perez played his guitar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFinally, it was time to assemble our first taco. I grabbed a freshly made blue corn tortilla, filled it with ensalada de nopales, \u003Cem\u003Esalsa roja\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and \u003Cem\u003Esalsa verde\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and fresh goat cheese made at the farm that day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This is the true meaning of farm-to-table dining,\" Garcia beamed as we listened to the goats' bleat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230721-prickly-pear-cactus-tacos-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0g1d8p6"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Photo of nopales salad","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230721-prickly-pear-cactus-tacos-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Nopales Tacos recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENopales Tacos recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Rita Garcia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EServes 4-6\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe most popular way to enjoy nopales is as a taco, and preparing it is simple. You don't have to look around for a cactus farm in the heart of the Mexican desert to find the perfect nopal cactus. Instead, stop by a local Mexican or specialty grocery store and buy a pack of 4 to 6 harvested, washed nopal pads. The first thing you notice when you slice into a nopal is its sticky, gooey texture. Rest assured; this will dissolve when cooking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230721-prickly-pear-cactus-tacos-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the nopales:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E4-6 fresh nopal (cactus) pads\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E6 large ripe tomatoes, diced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; onion, diced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; cup coriander, chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Esalt and pepper\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ejuice of two limes\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the salsa roja:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E2 boxes cherry tomatoes\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 serrano pepper, diced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Esalt and pepper\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the salsa verde:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E6 ripe tomatillos (green tomatoes), husked, washed and sliced horizontally\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 serrano pepper, halved\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 unpeeled garlic cloves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; onion, diced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; cup fresh coriander, chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Esalt and pepper\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 small lime\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETo assemble the tacos:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E1 package of corn or flour tortillas (12 count)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Eone round of fresh goat cheese (175g-225g\u002F6-8oz)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230721-prickly-pear-cactus-tacos-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EMake the nopales. Cut the nopales vertically in strips and then cut again horizontally. Put in a pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. Boil on medium-high heat uncovered for about 10 minutes, or until the nopales are tender and the mucilage (a gelatinous sticky substance) has seeped out. Pay attention as the mucilage may begin to foam and spill over. If that happens, lower the heat. Drain and let cool.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EOnce the nopales are cool, place in a large bowl and add the tomatoes, onion and coriander, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with fresh lime juice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EMake the salsa roja. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the tomatoes and serrano pepper and boil over medium-high heat under tender, roughly 7-10 minutes. Drain and add the tomatoes to a bowl.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERemove the seeds from the serrano pepper (leave some if you want extra spice). Dice and add to the tomatoes. Use a mortar and pestle (or blend briefly in a food processor) to mash the tomatoes with the serrano pepper. Add the garlic to taste and season with salt and pepper. Add water if you prefer more liquid in your salsa.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EMake the salsa verde. Light your oven's grill (broiler). Place the tomatillos in a baking dish, skin-side up. Add the serrano pepper and garlic, and roast under the grill for 10-12 minutes. Remove when the skins are turning black in colour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 6\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERemove the seeds from the serrano pepper (leave some if you want extra spice) and peel the garlic. Toss the tomatillos, serrano pepper and garlic in a mixing bowl and crush everything together with a mortar and pestle (or blend briefly in a food processor). You may add a minced fresh serrano pepper if you prefer more spice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 7\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAdd the onion, coriander, salt and pepper, and squeeze over fresh lime juice to taste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 8\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAssemble the tacos in tortillas with the ensalada de nopales, goat cheese and the salsa of your choice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". 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