MIRAGE-Benchmark/MIRAGE huggingface dataset:
identify growth on plant?

Question: This growth is on a gaura in my garden.  It is the only plant I've seen it on, and it doesn't seem to be causing the plant any harm.  I tried to attach a picture of the inside of one that I pulled off, but couldn't do it.  It is soft and red inside, about the size of a fingernail

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 30, 2024, 4:29 PM EDT
response: Here is another picture

responder: Answered by theHome and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied October 31, 2024, 8:40 AM EDT
response: Thanks for your question. We are able to see two photos, including the second photo with the reddish jelly underneath. This is a type of sucking insect called Indian Wax Scale.  There are many types of scale and they are different than what most people think of as insects as they spend large parts of their lives still, and are under protective waxy covers. We've gotten several questions about them this week, most likely because they are now mature and plumped up.  Here is our page about them: https://extension.umd.edu/resource/indian-wax-scale/ (Read the links at the bottom as well).  They can't live long-term on perennials that die back each year, but scraping them off when you see them on woody/shrubby plants is not a bad idea.    Christine

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 31, 2024, 8:51 AM EDT
response: Thank you!On Oct 31, 2024, at 8:40 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Answered by theHome and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied October 31, 2024, 9:01 AM EDT
response: You're welcome.
Virus on native pear, Lane County

Question: On our property we have a number of wild pear trees. 
This year their leaves are studded with what looks like a viral growth: the upper side of each leaf is green but with large blotches of orange surrounded by yellow. On the back of each leaf are truly strange eruptions, perhaps 1/8" in height, with what look like several fruiting bodies.
Are you familiar with this? And is it something that could migrate to other trees?

responder: Erica Chernoh Assistant Professor of Practice Community and Commercial Horticulture OSU Extension Lane County Replied November 01, 2024, 3:51 PM EDT
response: There are two main rust diseases of pears in Oregon, Pacific Coast Pear Rust (Gymnosporangium ibocedri) and Trellis Pear Rust (G. sabinae). Rust fungi typically have two different hosts, the primary host (e.g. your pear tree) that will display severe symptoms and a secondary host (e.g. your neighbor’s incense cedar or juniper) which may only display minor symptoms and effects. Distinguishing between the two species of rust requires careful examination. Trellis Rust causes acorn shaped aecia on the lower leaf surfaces later in the season (for a comparison of the two, refer to: https://blogs.oregonstate.edu/mgmetro/2018/06/01/pear-trees-rust-times-2/)  Pear rust can affect both European and Asian varieties of pear. There are no listed resistant varieties for Trellis Rust. There are no chemicals registered for home use for either species of rust, so you would need to hire a company that is licensed to apply a commercial pesticide (see: http://npic.orst.edu/pest/selectpco.html). Other management practices include collecting and discarding infected leaves and fruit, remove and destroy any infected woody plant parts, and of course removing alternate hosts, which isn't feasible if the host is in a neighbor’s yard.

responder: The Question Asker Replied November 01, 2024, 6:50 PM EDT
response: Many thanks for your answer. This is very helpful. Esther   From: ask=<personal data hidden> on behalf of Ask Extension  Sent: Friday, November 1, 2024 12:51 PM To: Esther Jacobson-Tepfer  Subject: Re: Virus on native pear, Lane County (#0158930)
Evergreens trees turning yellow and brown

Question: Hello,

We have several evergreen trees in our backyard that are turning yellow and then brown on the inner branches. Is this normal needle fall in the autumn? Or should I be worried about something else? 

Thanks!
George

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied October 29, 2024, 9:35 AM EDT
response: Yes, while drought stress from this past growing season might be exacerbating the phenomenon, it looks like normal seasonal foliage shedding that evergreens do either in fall or spring. It's the oldest needles that are changing color and shedding, and while denser-growing plants hide that color change more effectively because the innermost branch sections with those older leaves are out of sight, many species (pine, spruce, arborvitae, falsecypress, etc.) go through this shedding process in fall. (A few evergreens do this in spring instead, like azaleas and hollies.)  Given the ongoing drought thus far, it wouldn't hurt to keep periodically monitoring the plant for watering needs. When the soil around five inches deep becomes somewhat dry to the touch at that depth, the plant could probably use the water. Once the soil surface starts to freeze, watering can pause until mild winter spells (if we don't have enough rain or snow).  Miri

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 31, 2024, 7:36 AM EDT
response: Thank you very much for the response. This is an awesome service you provide. I really appreciate it.

responder: Answered by theHome and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied October 31, 2024, 8:18 AM EDT
response: You're welcome. We're happy to help.
Persimmon leaf problem

Question: Hello,
I have a Fuyu persimmon whose leaves are curling and some have black blotches 
This has never happened before. It is ~5 years old and a heavy producer

responder: Erica Chernoh Assistant Professor of Practice Community and Commercial Horticulture OSU Extension Lane County Replied October 30, 2024, 5:12 PM EDT
response: Persimmons are susceptible to a few different fungal leaf spots. I would be curious to know if the spots started as small individual spots and then coalesced into one large blotch. It is possible this is anthracnose (look for black sunken spots, or lesions, on the fruit and stems) or Botrytis (look for gray fuzzy growth on the leaves and fruit, especially around the calyx of the fruit), both are known diseases of persimmon. The cupped leaves could be related to the leaf spots, but if it started in the summer, then it is likely heat or water stress.   After leaf fall, rake up and dispose of any fallen leaves to remove the source of the inoculum from the field. If you find infected stems (stems with sunken black spots), prune them out and prune out any dead wood. If there is any mummified fruit left on the tree, remove and dispose of it. Check the soil around the tree to ensure good drainage (persimmons require good drainage), and during the hot dry months of summer, be sure your tree is getting adequate water. When watering, avoid overhead sprinklers that wet the canopy of the tree, instead, water low at the drip line (i.e. the edge of the canopy where most of the feeder roots are located).

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 31, 2024, 11:26 AM EDT
response: I did find just a few with black sunken spots  I also know that the leaves did show heat stress in the summer  so maybe at least two things going on I don’t know if the leaf spots started as individuals then joined So many fruit tree issues this year:/ Coddling moth on Asian pears which I hadn’t seen before and a gross amount of fruit flies infesting my Italian plum:( Thank you

responder: Erica Chernoh Assistant Professor of Practice Community and Commercial Horticulture OSU Extension Lane County Replied November 01, 2024, 3:55 PM EDT
response: Follow the recommendations listed in my previous post, and keep an eye on your persimmon starting in early spring to see how the symptoms progress. For more on managing insects and diseases in your apple, pear, and plum tree, refer to the following: https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pub/ec-631-managing-diseases-insects-home-orchards
Juniper Berries

Question: We have property in Huerfano County and would like to know what type of Cedar/Juniper trees are on our property. We have read there are various species. Can you tell us which kind we have on our property? Juniperus communis or Juniperus scopulorum? Or another?

responder: Marvin Reynolds  Replied October 30, 2024, 12:41 PM EDT
response: The pictures show Juniperus scopulorum. It is the most common Juniper in the area. Juniperus communis is found in Huerfano County as well. Juniperus virginiana,, or Eastern Red Cedar can also be found. Best, Marvin

responder: The Question Asker Replied November 11, 2024, 10:25 PM EST
response: Thank you so much! On Wed, Oct 30, 2024 at 9:41 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Red Twig Dogwood

Question: Hello! Thank you for all your help with previous questions  I certainly appreciate you! My red twig dogwood's leaves are covered with these black spots. What is it and is there anything I need to do to it?

responder: Diagnostic Team  Replied October 30, 2024, 5:44 PM EDT
response: Hi Marybeth, We are unable to see the spots on the leaves in the pictures you sent us.  The camera resolution is too low - only 240x320. Look into your camera settings and see if you can't increase the photo file size (~3MB) and send us some new images. Inlclude closeups of the leaves and a picture of the entire bush. At this time of the year leaves become subject to fungi and deterioration before leaf drop.  It may not be anything to worry about. We look forward to seeing the pictures so that we can be sure that any recommendations we might make are based on the best evidence available. Mark O.

responder: The Question Asker Replied November 01, 2024, 1:42 PM EDT
response: Here are better pictures. Thank you!

responder: Dawn Fradkin  Replied November 05, 2024, 11:18 AM EST
response: Hi Marybeth, Thank you for sending more pictures! It does appear from your pictures that some of the leaves on your dogwoods may have leaf spot fungi. This can be common problem and is not of too much concern. Leaf Spots do not normally harm the health of your plant and is mostly considered to be aesthetic damage. The best remedy and prevention will be to remove all leaf litter from your dogwood(s) and throw them away. The fungus can overwinter on the leaves and reinfect the dogwood next season, so proper sanitation is the best prevention. Leaf Spot Fungi rarely warrant use of fungicides unless the infection is severe. If this is the first time you are seeing this, then simple leaf removal will be your best bet to control this. Here is more information about this and management recommendations: https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/article/1995/7-21-1995/leafspot.html I hope this helps! Dawn
Plant paw paw trees

Question: I planted two paw paw saplings in May in these tall planters , they have grown to about 30 inches. Should I plant them now or all they still to small and just bury them in the planter's? I have had them in my screened in porch all summer. 

Thanks, 
Lauren

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied October 28, 2024, 11:40 AM EDT
response: Any cold-hardy plant is better able to overwinter when in the ground compared to being kept in pots. Pots not only prevent roots from expanding and establishing, but their presence above-ground makes them quite vulnerable to temperature swings, and they will also dry out faster. In the ground, roots are much more insulated, so when possible, always plant trees in the ground as soon as possible, especially before winter. You will still need to keep an eye on watering needs for in-ground plantings, especially in their first few years in the ground, but they at least won't get drought-stressed as readily as they might have in a pot that goes too long between waterings. Pawpaw trees tend to be tap-rooted when young, a trait hard to accommodate in pots (even deep ones), so dig a hole as deep as the pots currently are in order to fit any downward-directional root in the planting hole without kinking or breaking it. (They'll probably survive if that does happen, but best to avoid it if possible.)  Miri

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 28, 2024, 11:52 AM EDT
response: Thanks for your response. I read the PawPaw should be planted in the shade for the first two years, but with such a long tap root it wouldn’t make sense to move it. I had planned a sunny location, what are your thoughts with a tree this small?LaurenOn Mon, Oct 28, 2024 at 11:40 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied October 28, 2024, 11:59 AM EDT
response: Growers putting Pawpaw trees in a sunnier location than their natural understory position have had success placing a temporary structure over the saplings to hold a piece of shade cloth as a means of providing shade while they're establishing. We don't know if it would be a definite problem to grow them in more sun right away, though, considering that nurseries undoubtedly grow their crops in more sun than shade (as shade houses tend to be reserved for other crops). Given the size you're installing, they would fortunately be fairly easy to shield, if needed, for a year or two.  Miri
Small flying bug in high rise condo

Question: Hello, these tiny flying bugs, not great flyers, they are fairly slow and erratic, seem to be attracted to water (not light so much) seem to somehow find their way into our 27th floor condominium in downtown St. Paul.  Pretty distinctive wing pattern, can you identify?
Thank you!

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied October 27, 2024, 7:46 PM EDT
response: Thanks for the question. As far as I can determine this might be a species of planthopper. Possibly (Bothriocera transversa).  See: https://bugguide.net/node/view/358374 They are relatively small insects, typically ranging from about 3 to 10 millimeters (about 1/8th inch) in length. They can fly but when not in flight, their wings rest in a tent-like position over the body. They feed upon sap from several different types of plants. How they got into your domicile is indeed a mystery. My best guess is that within the last week or two, some type of plant material (flowers??) was brought into your dwelling, and they hitchhiked a ride on them. They are not attracted to water per se, but they are attracted to plants that live in wet places. Do you have plants in your condo that are in water and/or in soil that is kept moist? Any plants that were recently obtained from a florist? Beyond this, I really couldn’t find much other information about this critter. For sure they are harmless albeit a nuisance. Just take a vacuum cleaner, suck them up, and discard in the trash. I would expect that within a couple of weeks, they will not be around. I would greatly appreciate your comments upon my answer, primarily to satisfy my own curiosity. Thanks for using our forum. Good luck!!

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 27, 2024, 9:00 PM EDT
response: Thank you for the fast response!We don't have any plants in our home.  We have seen these bugs for most of the summer, but have not seen them for the last couple of weeks, until today.  They have never been numerous,  just one or two at a time but they have been around consistently.  I thought they might be drain flies but if that were the case wouldn't they be more numerous?Thank you for the information, I appreciate it!Steve   On Sun, Oct 27, 2024 at 6:46 PM, Ask Extension wrote:

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied October 27, 2024, 10:31 PM EDT
response: Glad to have been of assistance. For sure, they are not drain flies. Drain flies do not have the wing pattern that you are seeing in your visitors. Their origin will remain a mystery. Thanks again for using our forum.
Spider Plant

Question: Why is my spider plant doing this? (See photo). Thank you.

responder: Amy J. Extension Master Gardener - HC Replied October 28, 2024, 10:17 PM EDT
response: It appears your spider plant may not be in an area with enough light. That can be why they become 'leggy' as they are reaching for what they need. I would recommend repotting, in a potting mix, placing the brown areas under the soil. Make sure it is in part to full sun and has good ventilation so it does not get too warm. Do not fertilize during the winter as plants typically rest during this time. Starting in the spring give a fertilizer mixed at 1/2 the strength listed on the box/bottle. Below is a link with additional information on growing spider plants.   https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/spider-plant-chlorophytum-comosum/

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 28, 2024, 11:00 PM EDT
response: Thank you so much for the information. I couldn't find anything about this online   From: ask=<personal data hidden> on behalf of Ask Extension  Sent: Monday, October 28, 2024 9:17 PM To: Carma Graber  Subject: Re: Spider Plant (#0158736)
Grey blotches on our red maple leaves

Question: Hi!  Noticed our maple has been turning silver. On closer inspection, it looks like a powdery substance is dusting a lot of the leaves. Could this be powdery mildew? Or something else? Should we be treating with something? Now or wait until winter or spring?  Thanks for your help!

responder: Answered by theHome and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied October 28, 2024, 12:02 PM EDT
response: Hello and thanks for your question. You hit the nail on the head. That does indeed look like Powdery Mildew on your Japanese Maple. Here is our page on it:  https://extension.umd.edu/resource/powdery-mildew-disease-trees-and-shrubs/ When weather conditions are right it takes hold and can continue to flourish, though conditions can vary from year to year. As with all disease pathogens in our landscapes, anything you can do to improve air circulation around the tree and getting more sunlight and less humidity to the leaves so that they don't stay wet for long periods of time is helpful. Pruning or thinning out this or other nearby plants can help for better air circulation. It can't hurt to trim off or rake up the most affected leaves and put them out with the trash, but the pathogen can still blow in from elsewhere.  When buying new plants or trees look for ones that are bred with some disease resistance.  Use of registered fungicides would be a last resort if the disease is severe next season. Fungicides are not curative, they just slow down new infections and need to be repeated regularly. Check the label registration on horticultural oil products for powdery mildew control listings. In some cases it might be preferable to install a new native tree which better support our native flora and fauna. MD Dept. of Natural Resources has a program to encourage the planting of Maryland native trees, with a $-off coupon. Here are the recommended trees:  https://dnr.maryland.gov/forests/Pages/MarylandersPlantTrees/Recommended-Tree-List.aspx You can learn more about the program at "Plant Trees" one the column to the left.   Christine

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 31, 2024, 4:05 PM EDT
response: Thank you, Christine!  On Monday, October 28, 2024 at 12:02:53 PM EDT, Ask Extension wrote:

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied November 01, 2024, 11:11 AM EDT
response: You're welcome!
Crimson Queen Japanese Maples

Question: Our Crimson Queen Japanese Maples have been on a timer drip system for several months.  The watering time has been 3 1/2 hours every day but the moisture meter shows they are dry.  We have a very good moisture meter that is extra long for deep measurements.  The plants are in large containers, we have not planted them yet as we are waiting to design our Japanese garden.   They are not root bound.  They are situated on the east side of our pole barn.  It's blocked to the west by the pole barn and the east by big trees so as to protect them from the winds. They get late morning to early afternoon sun.  In the last several months they have started losing leaves and looking poorly. See photos below.  Could you please let me know your thoughts as to how we can save these beautiful (expensive) plants.

responder: Best Regards,   Replied October 29, 2024, 10:10 AM EDT
response: Dear Laura,  Thank you for contacting us about your potted maples. I suspect there are problems with the roots.   Plants in pots are often stressed. Personally, I would not rely on a moisture meter for potted trees. It is better to water them thoroughly (until the water begins to drain out from the bottom). Then, do not water again until the top 2-inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Press your finger into the soil: if it feels damp or the soil sticks to it, no water is needed. https://extension.umn.edu/irrigation/soil-moisture-sensors-irrigation-scheduling#:~:text=Relatively%20slow%20response%20time%20to,calibrated%20for%20each%20soil%20type.  If you are not ready to place the trees in your landscape, it may be better to plant them in a temporary location, such as a raised bed. The roots may be crowded even though they do not extend out the drain holes. You can use this opportunity to check the condition of the roots. Healthy roots are light colored. Water only when there is no rain for several days.  When you do plant them in their permanent location, be sure to gently wash the potting soil from the roots and unravel any that have begun circling in the pot. Plant them just slightly above grade, and do not amend the backfill. Compost and mulch should be applied to the surface only.   I hope this information is helpful. Please write again if you have more questions.

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 31, 2024, 1:26 PM EDT
response: Thank you so much for the detailed information.       Laura Teague <personal data hidden> (cell)     From: ask=<personal data hidden> on behalf of Ask Extension  Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2024 7:10 AM To: Laura Teague  Subject: Re: Crimson Queen Japanese Maples (#0158720)
Weed Identification

Question: Hello - I would appreciate your assistance in identifying the weed in the attached photograph and providing any recommendations for dealing with it.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied October 28, 2024, 10:04 AM EDT
response: This plant is Potentilla indica. I'm attaching some additional information about controlling it. While it looks similar to wild strawberry, it has yellow flowers instead of white.  https://extension.umd.edu/resource/indian-mock-strawberry/

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 28, 2024, 2:20 PM EDT
response: Thank you so much!