MIRAGE-Benchmark/MIRAGE huggingface dataset:
Question about trees

Question: Good afternoon, I wrote to you last year about a couple of trees we had planted, and you were so helpful! Thank you! Now that it is spring, we are noticing our Norway Columnar spruce tree needles are looking brown, and one of the trees we planted in the fall is having a ton of needles drop. When I touch the needles, they just fall off. Is our tree dying? The other one is browning, but the needles are staying put for the most part. We haven't done much watering in the winter with the temperatures and the amount of snow that we have gotten. I just started watering again last week with warmer temperatures. Should we be deep watering these trees once a week, or can they handle light watering a couple of times a week? We are so new to the tree world any advice would be greatly appreciated. I attached two pictures of two different trees. One is a little fluffier than the other and seems to be holding up better. We did plant this one in July of 2022. The second one that we are more concerned about we planted in late September of 2022. It's more skinny and the pine needles fall off when I touch it. Thank you again for taking the time. Laura

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied April 12, 2023, 5:22 PM EDT
response: Hi Laura, I'm sorry to hear about your trees!  From what can see in the photos, your trees definitely look a bit water-stressed.  The green needles dropping from the tree is a sign of drying quickly, which can easily happen to newly planted trees (especially conifers) in our area. In sections of the tree where the needles do not drop rapidly, if the branches are still supple and pliant, the tree will likely live if you are able to provide adequate water.  Aim for deep watering; you want to make sure the rootball and surrounding soil are thoroughly wet.  Water as often as necessary to make sure the rootball remains moist, always deeply--at this time of year, it is unlikely to be more than once a week, if that, but it depends on the weather, the site,  and the soil, so be sure to check rather than water by a schedule. I hope this is helpful. Cordially, John

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 12, 2023, 6:11 PM EDT
response: Thank you so much for your help John. Can you also tell me how long it typically takes to deep water and about how much water should be coming out? Again we are so new to this and there is so much information out there it gets a little confusing. Thanks,LauraOn Wed, Apr 12, 2023, 3:22 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied April 13, 2023, 3:39 PM EDT
response: Hi Laura, How long it will take depends on your soil, ultimately.  Whatever the soil, though, use a slow-soak approach; you'll  want to apply probably 10-15 gallons of water at a rate slow enough to soak in right around the tree--if you see water running off down the slope, slow down.   Some people have used a five gallon bucket with a small hole drilled in the bottom to have a handy measuring/delivery device, but a drip emitter or slow-running hose work just fine too! John
Pruning burning bush

Question: Our burning bush is overgrown and it looks like rabbits have chewed bark off of the branches near the base. I have read that I could cut the whole plant off at the base and it will regrow from there. Is that accurate?

responder: MaryKay, Master Gardener, Tree Care Advisor Replied April 12, 2023, 2:02 PM EDT
response: Rejuvenation pruning for older or overgrown shrubs Deciduous shrubs that have multiple stems (cane-growth habit), and that have become very overgrown or neglected can be rejuvenated by cutting all canes back as close to the ground as possible in early spring. That season's flowers may be sacrificed but the benefits from bringing the plants back to their normal size and shape outweigh this temporary collateral damage.” The above quote is from the following website.  Pruning the burning bush to the ground this spring should give excellent results. The rabbits have in effect caused the top growth to die but the roots will produce new branches when pruned off.  https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/pruning-trees-and-shrubs

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 12, 2023, 4:32 PM EDT
response: Thank-you  Sent from my iPad  On Apr 12, 2023, at 1:02 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:    ﻿

responder: MaryKay, Master Gardener, Tree Care Advisor Replied April 12, 2023, 4:50 PM EDT
response: You are welcome.
Vole damage?

Question: I just noticed what I think is damage due to voles on several trees--two crabapple trees and one birch.  I've never seen anything like this including what look like surface tunnels.  I have several questions:

Is this vole damage?

Will these trees die (all bark removed around base)?

What trees are vole resistant?  Maple?

How can I get rid of voles?

Thanks!

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied April 15, 2023, 8:00 PM EDT
response: Hi, I think you have two separate critter situations. The bark has been eaten by rabbits and that's the real problem. The tunneling is ( I believe ) caused by moles and I don't think that affects your tree.  https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/how-protect-trees-and-shrubs-animal-damage-over-winter#:~:text=Rabbits%20feed%20on%20the%20tissue,foliage%20to%20the%20root%20system. https://naturalresources.extension.iastate.edu/encyclopedia/moles-damage-management The tree is very likely dead now. I have seen trees and bushes with this rabbit damage all over the state. It's been a particularly horrible winter for rabbit damage.  Sally Granath, MG Volunteer At Large

responder: Barbara, Anoka County MG, TCA Replied April 20, 2023, 7:50 PM EDT
response: Additionally, the tunneling, if at the surface, is from voles.  You need only rake it.  However, voles are like little mice and there really isn't anything that gets rid of them except to clear out areas where they nest (brush piles, leaf piles, etc).  I agree that the trees will probably die although they may leaf out on stored energy and then slowly die over the summer.  When you put in replacement trees, put a protective ring of hardware cloth around your trees around October 1st.  Sink it a bit into the ground to prevent tunneling underneath.  Hardware cloth has small 1/4" openings and voles cannot get through it.  It can be purchased in the same area as chicken/poultry wire in big box stores.  No trees/shrubs are resistant to this type of damage.

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 24, 2023, 8:11 AM EDT
response: Yes, it's all at the surface--they just made pathways using the thatch (not like the mounded mole tunnels).    I tried putting mouse traps baited with peanut butter and oatmeal, but no luck.  I'm going to try VoleX bait (supposedly kills thru dehydration and is non toxic to other animals). We live on acreage, and I've planted over 100 trees.  So disappointing to see this.  They didn't seem to bother the white pines.  They girdled a birch, two crab apples, 5 blue spruces and one Austrian pine.  I did buy some 1/4" hardware cloth, but to do all my trees will be difficult  Thanks!

responder: Barbara, Anoka County MG, TCA Replied April 24, 2023, 4:30 PM EDT
response: You could try putting  hardware cloth around a few trees at a time, leaving some room for expansion of the trunks.  It really wouldn't be a necessary barrier until winter again.  It does not have to be taken down but can be left up year round.  Once trunks are rough and tough, voles will not chew on them.  Good luck.
What to do about receding flower bed

Question: I have flowers planted in a bed next to the sidewalk that's on a slight slope.  The day lilies planted next to the edge have gradually receded as the soil behind them where I have other annual flowers (asters, rudbeckia, etc.) and bushes has built up over the years.  I'd like to move the day lilies back closer to the sidewalk.  I'm concerned that new soil needed there would slide onto the sidewalk, but putting in a low wall would look funny.  I'm don't know what to do about it.  This will only get worse with time if I don't so something.  I've included some pictures to show the situation.  Your help would be much appreciated.

responder: Diane M  Replied April 12, 2023, 3:11 PM EDT
response: We see your dilemma.  Your flower bed is now taller than the adjacent walkway, and the space available isn't sufficient for daylilies.  Your options depend on how much effort, time  and money you'd like to put into the project.  You could simply forego the daylilies and plant a ground cover that will hold the soil in next to the sidewalk.  A second option is to excavate the area so that it is the same level as the walkway for a few feet back and then gently slope it up.  You could install an attractive retaining wall there in a S-curve, made of materials that would reflect the landscape.  Foot-high boulders might be a nice option.  You could place your daylilies in the front area or scatter them in the broad flower bed.  Give it some thought before taking on a big project to make sure that it would meet your goals.  Good luck.

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 13, 2023, 12:26 PM EDT
response: Thank you for this response.  One last question:  if I were to move the daylilies, when should I do it?  They are just starting to come up.On Apr 12, 2023, at 2:11 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Diane M  Replied April 13, 2023, 6:48 PM EDT
response: Now is a perfect time to transplant those daylilies.  Another good option is to move them right after they're done blooming.
Brown Turkeys fig oozing white powdery substance

Question: My fig tree (in a pot) is oozing a white substance that looks like tiny tubes. It’s powdery to the touch. And it seems to have a regular pattern I have other figs (little ruby, Celeste, little miss figgy) and they don’t have this problem.  This is also an older plant maybe 7+ years old.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied April 12, 2023, 10:27 PM EDT
response: Your figs have been attacked by granulated ambrosia beetles.  The females of these small insects burrow into trunks and branches of plants to lay their eggs.  The small tubes you are seeing are composed of sawdust and the insect's frass (excrement).  By boring into the plant they inoculate their tunnels with the ambrosia fungus which acts as a food source for the developing larvae.  The article linked below provides additional information on the life cycle and recommended control measures.  Ambrosia Beetle Pests of Nursery and Landscape Trees | NC State Extension Publications (ncsu.edu)

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 13, 2023, 1:33 PM EDT
response: Thank you so much.   I’ll destroy the tree (by burning).  It easy since it’s in a pot. I don’t want it the impact my other tree.   What should I do with the soil.  Solarize it?

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied April 16, 2023, 9:24 PM EDT
response: Other than disposing of the infected plant there is no mention of a need to treat the soil.
Evergreen tree fungus

Question: Hi there we’ve been seeing this fungus since last year it was getting pretty bad we had our tree sprayed it help but I’m wondering what kind of fungus that says and if there’s anything else we can do to prevent it from spreading thank you

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied April 11, 2023, 4:29 PM EDT
response: Hello  From the photos, what I am mainly seeing are lichens, i.e., the gray, green growths on the branches.  Lichens are naturally occurring and do not cause any tree harm.  They are actually a sign of healthy air, e.g. in polluted air there will be few if no lichens.  Here is an article that explains more about them: https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/what_are_lichens_and_what_are_they_doing_on_my_tree  If these trees are showing other symptoms/signs, please feel free to upload additional photos showing what is occurring.  For example, maybe the bottom and inner needles are being lost and/or do you see any black spots on the needles?

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 11, 2023, 4:34 PM EDT
response: the trees with a lot have been dying could it be something else?

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied April 11, 2023, 4:42 PM EDT
response: Yes, please upload a photo of the entire tree, so we can see what is happening.  Also, try to take a clear photo of a closeup of the needles, so we can see if anything is happening there.
Tomato starts- old growth wilting and dying

Question: Hello! I am writing because I  having trouble with my tomato starts. I started the seeds the week of March 1 in a mix of Coco coir, vermiculite and perlite. Once they sprouted, I was watering them with a fertilizer- I mixed with a low concentration NPK, worm castings, and kelp. All liquid mixtures. They grew wonderfully with the exception of being a little purple. About two weeks apart of them up into the FoxFarm Bushsoctor Coco Loco soil. I haven’t fertilized them because it has its own NPK, castings and kelp in it and they’ve only been in it for about 2 weeks. Then both my cherry tomatoes and Roma tomatoes started drooping, wilting, curling and drying out in the old growth. I’ve been working really hard to maintain a relatively even moisture level. I tested the pH level of the new potting soil mix when I parted them up and it’s pretty neutral, and the purple hue to the plants went away. I’m just not sure what the problem is. I tried googling it, but everything looks so similar, and nothing looks exactly like it. They are still putting on new growth but this problem does seem to be moving up the plant. Any insight would be very much appreciated!

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 10, 2023, 10:35 PM EDT
response: In my previous post about my tomato starts having problems, I meant to say when i “potted them up” into the fox farm bushdoctor coco loco soil.  Thank you! Katie Rutkowski

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 10, 2023, 10:50 PM EDT
response: Also of note, my tomato starts are basically touching my grow lights. They are LED grow lights, so there’s very little heat coming off of them but I am wondering if this could be related? Though it seems weird that the older growth (farther from the light) is what’s struggling the most. With the way our grow light system is set up I can’t move them up any farther. I don’t have a greenhouse and it’s still too cold to put them outside consistently. Just wanted to mention that

responder: Evelyn Locke, MN Master Gardener, Tree Care Advisor, Volunteer    Replied April 11, 2023, 7:41 AM EDT
response: The only problem with the plants touching the led grow lights is a little bleaching but that will recover and disappear when they can go outside. I think you are right the problem is with watering. The coir mix is a little tricky. Try lifting the pots and watering when they feel light in weight. It takes a little practice but the weight is a good indicator of how much water they have. Another strategy is to use a moisture meter. There are inexpensive ones on Amazon and the cheap ones are fine for tomatoes that aren’t too sensitive, unlike some exotics. Overall your plants look great.
Stinging Nettle

Question: I need to eradicate stinging nettle from my pastures that have cows, horses and goats. It’s taking over everything! What can I do to get rid of it? What herbicide is safe for my livestock?
Thank You,
Fay

responder: John P. O'Connell, M.S.  Replied April 11, 2023, 12:12 PM EDT
response: Ms. Knape, Please call our office at<personal data hidden> and speak to Jessica Chase. She is the Agriculture & Natural Resource agent. She will be able to give you the information you need.  Thank you!

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 12, 2023, 8:48 PM EDT
response: Another photo

responder: John P. O'Connell, M.S.  Replied April 13, 2023, 10:36 AM EDT
response: Howdy! Hi Ms. Knape thank you for submitting another image of the stinging nettles. Did you call our office at<personal data hidden> and leave a message for Ms. Chase, our agriculture agent? If not, please do call and speak to Jean Godwin. Ms. Godwin is her administrative assistant and will get your contact information from you for a call back.  Thank you!
Split Branches on Chaste Tree

Question: Several of the larger branches of this chaste tree are splitting and I was wondering if that's because I should have cut it back at some time of the year but did not?

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied April 11, 2023, 9:12 AM EDT
response: Cutting the plant back likely would have had no impact on its propensity to crack, possibly due to winter temperature fluctuations which were fairly drastic this year and caused other kinds of plant damage. (In fact, with other species like Crapemyrtle, last-season pruning has been shown to actually reduce cold-hardiness compared to unpruned plants.) These might be frost cracks, which occur when warm spells are closely followed by cold snaps.  All you can do is to either trim out all cracked growth or wait and see if the branches leaf-out normally (though this won't preclude them from dying at some point in the future due to the exposed interior wood developing decay). The injuries will not heal and no type of sealant material should coat them. Vitex (Chaste-tree) is fairly resilient so likely will regrow lost stems easily if otherwise healthy and doing well. Your location in western MD is more of a zone 6 hardiness area, and Vitex is only reliably hardy to zone 7, so it might be a risk in future years that wood dieback occurs due to cold snaps.  Miri

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 11, 2023, 10:17 AM EDT
response: OK, thanks, Miri. My three much smaller chaste trees made it through the winter without any visible problems. Also my two crepe myrtles!  On Tue, Apr 11, 2023 at 9:12 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied April 11, 2023, 1:26 PM EDT
response: Glad to hear it, and you're welcome!
Grassy Weeds

Question: In the last couple of years our yard has been overrun with what I am calling Dallisgrass.  I have attached 2 photos of grass.  My question is how do I effectively get rid of it.  What is a good Herbicide or Pre-emergent.

responder: Travis County Master Gardeners  Replied April 10, 2023, 5:58 PM EDT
response: Hi Kyle,    Not always easy examining submitted photos, but looking at the seed heads, I believe you are dealing with an annual grass, (which most consider a weed), known as rescue grass.  Please consider removing as much as you can with a hoe or a weed popper this spring and then putting down an appropriate pre-emergent herbicide this coming fall.     Here is an article from Texas A&M on weed control in turf grass with herbicides. http://publications.tamu.edu/TURF_LANDSCAPE/PUB_turf_Herbicides%20for%20Weed%20Control%20in%20Turfgrass.pdf    Be sure to use protective equipment with the handling of herbicides and follow the instructions on the label.    Wishing you all the best! Bob Kunkel

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 10, 2023, 6:34 PM EDT
response: I looked at other photos on the internet of rescue grass and yes that appears what it is.  I have used a pre-emergent , but I need to pay better attention to applying it.  We live in here in Austin so when is the best time in the Fall and Spring you suggest to apply.  Also, for those that make it through do you suggest a particular herbicide to spot treat.  Thanks

responder: Travis County Master Gardeners  Replied April 11, 2023, 9:51 AM EDT
response: Hi Kyle,    As Mastergardeners we are not to promote any one product.  If you are going to spot treat you can use a non-selective weedkiller that contains glyphosate, or you can make your own by finding the formula for using vinegar as a homemade herbicide.  Please be aware that these are non-selective & will leave brown patches where you spray.  That is the reason I suggested using a hoe and removing as much as you can now.  There will be less going to seed this year.    For weeds that germinate in winter & early spring months, you put your pre-emergent out in the Fall (late September or October) for Central Texas.  If you are trying to control warm season germinating weeds the pre-emergent go down in February.   Wishing you all the best! Bob Kunkel
Crabapple Tree Branch Injury

Question: Hello,

I had a crabapple tree planted last summer and a branch was injured/torn off while in transport. A portion of the branch remains as you can see in the photos, but I think it would be better if this injured section would be pruned off. I am not sure where the best place is to cut/prune the branch. Any advice you could provide would be most appreciated.

Thanks!

responder: Dennis in St. Louis Park Replied April 11, 2023, 1:40 PM EDT
response: I'd prune back to the next branching node.  In addition to the damaged branch, your tree looks to need significant pruning.  Look for crossing/touching branches and inward growing branches.  Read here (and watch the informative video): https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/pruning-trees-and-shrubs

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 12, 2023, 3:55 PM EDT
response: Thanks Dennis! And can I still prune now or do I need to wait to do this later this fall? Sent from my iPhone On Apr 11, 2023, at 12:40 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:﻿

responder: Dennis in St. Louis Park Replied April 12, 2023, 4:38 PM EDT
response: You can do it now.  Most crabs around here haven't broken dormancy.  The sap might run a bit, but that's not an issue.

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 12, 2023, 10:33 PM EDT
response: Thanks Dennis, again! I did some of the pruning this evening. How’d I do? Here are some photos. That damaged branch had a crack about a little longer than an inch so I had to make the cut just above the other branch. Hope I did it right! I also pruned off any crossing branches and branches that were growing towards the center. I think it’s better?Sent from my iPhone On Apr 12, 2023, at 3:38 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:﻿

responder: Dennis in St. Louis Park Replied April 13, 2023, 3:07 PM EDT
response: Looks better.  However, the cut should be close to the branch node.  There shouldn't be a stub left: https://www.uky.edu/Ag/Horticulture/QRLabels/Pruning.html