Brugmancia crown damage

Question: The crown of my potted brugmancia is becoming more gnarly and has splits in the wood and dead/loose bark. Crown rot? I'd hate to discard the plant, it is 8 ft tall and in full bloom.

responder: I hope this information is helpful. If you have additional questions, please feel free to ask.   Replied September 23, 2024, 9:24 PM EDT
response: The crown of my potted brugmancia is becoming more gnarly and has splits in the wood and dead/loose bark. Crown rot? I'd hate to discard the plant, it is 8 ft tall and in full bloom. Hi Laura, Your brugmancia is BEAUTIFUL!  It does appear to have crown rot which starts as root rot, a soil born fungi. First a few questions. Where is this plant? Ohio?  What county? How long have you had it? Have you ever transplanted it or pruned it? What do you do with it in cold weather?  I see it is in a pot. Is there drainage in the pot? Is the soil in the pot wet. What is your watering program?

responder: I hope this information is helpful. If you have additional questions, please feel free to ask.   Replied September 26, 2024, 6:21 PM EDT
response: Hi Laura, Your brugmancia is BEAUTIFUL! It does appear to have crown rot which starts as root rot, a soil born fungi. First a few questions. Where is this plant? Ohio? What county? How long have you had it? Have you ever transplanted it or pruned it? What do you do with it in cold weather?  I see it is in a pot. Is there drainage in the pot? Is the soil in the pot wet. What is your watering program?

responder: I hope this information is helpful. If you have additional questions, please feel free to ask.   Replied September 29, 2024, 9:18 AM EDT
response: The crown of my potted brugmancia is becoming more gnarly and has splits in the wood and dead/loose bark. Crown rot? I'd hate to discard the plant, it is 8 ft tall and in full bloom. Hi Laura, Your brugmancia is BEAUTIFUL! It does appear to have crown rot which starts as root rot, a soil born fungi. First a few questions. Where is this plant? Ohio? What county? How long have you had it? Have you ever transplanted it or pruned it? What do you do with it in cold weather?  I see it is in a pot. Is there drainage in the pot? Is the soil in the pot wet. What is your watering program?

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 03, 2024, 12:20 AM EDT
response: I'm located in Conneaut, Ohio, right on Lake Erie. I can't recall where I got the plant, to be honest, just that i've had it several years. The first winter, we kept it on a "sunny" windowsill in its small pot, just another sad houseplant waiting for spring. Eventually, it was moved to a bigger pot, and then outside in spring.Last year we had some beautiful blooms on it, although not many. And boy, did it get tall. We didn't know it could safely be left to go dormant indoors in winter months, so we tried keeping it growing over the winter... in a dimly lit room near a drafty exit. Yeah, that didn't work. Thankfully, it came back to life in the spring when we moved it outside once it warmed up. We took off some of the topmost growth to encourage a bushier form, and it seemed to do well.It was also repotted this spring, but it definitely needs to go to a bigger size pot simply because it's now so top heavy, and has been knocked over by wind five or six times this summer. Yes, it does drain well when watered, and is checked every day for signs of wilting.Its location gets about 8 hours of direct sun, thanks to large trees shading our yard. You might notice some signs of yellowing leaf  margins, my fault as I try to judge how much Miraclegro to give this heavy feeder in restricted sunlight conditions. (Six feet away, a potted hibiscus of similar size was fed the same amounts, and put on a ton of green growth but no blooms until last week. You live, you learn.)So, if this is crown rot ... Should I try to treat and save this plant which has already taken a beating, or take cuttings and start new plants?  Would the pathogen be carried in the cuttings?Thank you so much for responding!Laura On Sun, Sep 29, 2024, 9:18 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: I hope this information is helpful. If you have additional questions, please feel free to ask.   Replied October 03, 2024, 9:57 PM EDT
response: I'm located in Conneaut, Ohio, right on Lake Erie. I can't recall where I got the plant, to be honest, just that i've had it several years. The first winter, we kept it on a "sunny" windowsill in its small pot, just another sad houseplant waiting for spring. Eventually, it was moved to a bigger pot, and then outside in spring. Last year we had some beautiful blooms on it, although not many. And boy, did it get tall. We didn't know it could safely be left to go dormant indoors in winter months, so we tried keeping it growing over the winter... in a dimly lit room near a drafty exit. Yeah, that didn't work.  Thankfully, it came back to life in the spring when we moved it outside once it warmed up. We took off some of the topmost growth to encourage a bushier form, and it seemed to do well. It was also repotted this spring, but it definitely needs to go to a bigger size pot simply because it's now so top heavy, and has been knocked over by wind five or six times this summer. Yes, it does drain well when watered, and is checked every day for signs of wilting. Its location gets about 8 hours of direct sun, thanks to large trees shading our yard. You might notice some signs of yellowing leaf margins, my fault as I try to judge how much Miraclegro to give this heavy feeder in restricted sunlight conditions. (Six feet away, a potted hibiscus of similar size was fed the same amounts, and put on a ton of green growth but no blooms until last week. You live, you learn.) So, if this is crown rot ... Should I try to treat and save this plant which has already taken a beating, or take cuttings and start new plants? Would the pathogen be carried in the cuttings? Thank you so much for responding! Laura  Hi Laura, How about you try both saving this plant and propagating a couple of new  plants!  It sounds like you are a gardener at heart and this is a spectacular plant. Let's try and save your plant, but propagating is definitely a good idea too. This plant is easily propagated from stem cuttings rooted in water or in damp sand or perlite without rooting hormone (although this can be used). Use semi-ripe wood (stems that have begun to change color from green to brown) at least the diameter of a finger and 6-8″ long. Cuttings can be taken any time the plant is actively growing, and any part of the trunk or branches can be used. Strip off all leaves and buds except the topmost set of small leaves. Put the cuttings in 2-3″ of water in a brightly-lit, warm place, changing the water every day or two and keeping the level consistent.  Alternatively, insert the cuttings a third of their length into the rooting medium, pressing the medium around the cutting, water thoroughly, let drain completely, cover if humidity is low (not necessary when humidity is high) and place in a bright, warm place. Pot up in medium sized pots when roots are several inches long, usually in several weeks. Water thoroughly but wait until the soil becomes almost completely dry to water again until the plant is established (to prevent root rot). Brugmansia’s grow quickly, so will need to be transplanted to a larger container when the roots have filled the smaller pot. Soon it will be time the bring your brugmansia in so it's a perfect time to remove any roots that are rotting, replant and at the same time tale some cuttings for starting new plants. Stop watering for a day or two. then remove it from the pot. This pause gives the roots a chance to dry out and halts the progression of rot. Once the plant is removed, inspect the roots. If they're rot-free, you've dodged a bullet and can replant. Otherwise, it's time to take action. Repotting is like hitting the reset button for your plant. Gently remove your Angel's Trumpet from its pot, shaking off old soil. Trim any rotten roots before introducing it to a new, sterile soil mix Aim for a blend that's airy and drains well, such as peat moss, perlite, and potting soil. Ensure the new pot has drainage holes to prevent future water logging. Balance the moisture and drainage with perlite, peat moss, and compost.DIY mix for best blooms: 3:2:1 ratio of soil, perlite, and peat moss. Grab your shears and get ready to play plant surgeon. Prune away the affected roots with precision, leaving only the healthy tissue behind. After the operation, let the roots breathe—think of it as a recovery period. Sterilize your tools with alcohol before and after use to prevent spreading any pathogens. Keep your plant in a stable environment, avoiding direct sunlight and temperature swings to aid in recovery. Good luck! I know you can do this.

responder: I hope this information is helpful. If you have additional questions, please feel free to ask.   Replied October 03, 2024, 10:00 PM EDT
response: I'm located in Conneaut, Ohio, right on Lake Erie. I can't recall where I got the plant, to be honest, just that i've had it several years. The first winter, we kept it on a "sunny" windowsill in its small pot, just another sad houseplant waiting for spring. Eventually, it was moved to a bigger pot, and then outside in spring. Last year we had some beautiful blooms on it, although not many. And boy, did it get tall. We didn't know it could safely be left to go dormant indoors in winter months, so we tried keeping it growing over the winter... in a dimly lit room near a drafty exit. Yeah, that didn't work.  Thankfully, it came back to life in the spring when we moved it outside once it warmed up. We took off some of the topmost growth to encourage a bushier form, and it seemed to do well. It was also repotted this spring, but it definitely needs to go to a bigger size pot simply because it's now so top heavy, and has been knocked over by wind five or six times this summer. Yes, it does drain well when watered, and is checked every day for signs of wilting. Its location gets about 8 hours of direct sun, thanks to large trees shading our yard. You might notice some signs of yellowing leaf margins, my fault as I try to judge how much Miraclegro to give this heavy feeder in restricted sunlight conditions. (Six feet away, a potted hibiscus of similar size was fed the same amounts, and put on a ton of green growth but no blooms until last week. You live, you learn.) So, if this is crown rot ... Should I try to treat and save this plant which has already taken a beating, or take cuttings and start new plants? Would the pathogen be carried in the cuttings? Thank you so much for responding! Laura On Sun, Sep 29, 2024, 9:18 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote: P.S. Please let me know how it goes!