Bark peeling on young Witch Hazel tree

Question: Any idea why there is bark peeling on this young witch hazel tree?  Could it be bucks rubbing it?  Or, maybe it's too close to the ground for that.

responder: Answered by theHome and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied October 10, 2024, 10:14 AM EDT
response: Your photo is blurry and we are not able to clearly see what is going on with your witch hazel.  From what we can see it looks like an old wound, possibly from buck rub in the past or an old canker disease.  If you can send a new, clearly focused photo we are happy to take a look.   Christine

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 10, 2024, 12:10 PM EDT
response: Hi Christine, Thanks so much for responding.  Are these pictures better?  I’ll also send a video in case that gives more perspective.  My photography skills are lacking, my apologies.  The top height of the damage is about 22 inches off the ground.  This is a new wound as I only planted it last Spring (2024).  Dorothy

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 10, 2024, 12:22 PM EDT
response: Attachment available until Nov 9, 2024Per my recent message, here’s a video in case it’s helpful.  Thanks so much, ChristineClick to Downloadwitch haze damage.MOV42.4 MBOn Oct 10, 2024, at 10:14 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied October 10, 2024, 2:55 PM EDT
response: Hi,  Do you see any sawdust looking material coming from the dark spots on the bark or at the base of the tree? Our pathologist doesn't recognizes the symptoms as a type of disease but it looks like some of the areas have weeping sap so we are considering borers.  The larger wound looks like an old injury from possibly an animal, or cicada damage that didn't heal over right away but it looks like it is forming some callous tissue and looks dry at this point.  If you take your finger nail or the tip of pruners and lightly pick at the areas on the bark that look dark, does it seems like there is a hole?  It could be that the tree is stressed and borers moved in as a secondary issue.  If it is borers there isn't anything that can be done to either save the tree or treat it. Monitor for more symptoms and water as needed through the fall.  Let us know what else you may discover and send in additional photos if you do.  Emily

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 10, 2024, 4:25 PM EDT
response: Hi Emily,I looked around and didn’t see any sawdust on the bark or ground.  There’s no sap, all of it is dry.   These are new since the Spring as they weren’t there when we bought and planted it in May of this year.  I pushed against the spots, going up and down, and did not find any holes.Do you know if there’s an expert we can hire to come look at it?Thanks again,DorothyOn Oct 10, 2024, at 2:55 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied October 11, 2024, 10:13 AM EDT
response: A certified arborist or licensed tree expert (they have essentially the same level of training) might be able to diagnose it, though they are probably more experienced with tree issues than shrubs. If this is caused by a canker infection or insect activity, there is no treatment since the damage has been done and the wood will either gradually cover-over the injuries or not. There is no topical sealant that should be applied (it will not help the healing process and might actually make things worse), so the plant just needs time to recover if it is capable of doing so. Making sure it gets watered when needed if dry weather spells continue and protected from deer (since it sounds like they may visit the area) is the best approach for now. If the plant is not grafted, then worst-case, if the top growth dies back, it still may sucker and produce new stems from the root system, assuming the roots remain healthy, which will allow the plant to regenerate. (If it is grafted, this could still happen, but it won't be the same species or cultivar of witchhazel that was planted. If this is a straight-species native witchhazel, Hamemalis virginiana, then it's probably not grafted.)  Miri

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 11, 2024, 11:44 AM EDT
response: Hi Miri,Thanks for your response.  I only plant straight species.  This was purchased from Bonaterra.  I doubt they use grafting.I have been watering it on a drip system regularly through the drought this year.  I’ll continue to water and hope for the best.  The leaves are plentiful and in good health so i don’t think the deer are interested, though they may be out of reach given its height..I so much appreciate your and everyone else’s assistance.DorothyOn Oct 11, 2024, at 10:13 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied October 11, 2024, 12:15 PM EDT
response: The biggest risk from deer is the rubbing of antlers on the bark in autumn, more so than eating the foliage, and while the injuries pictured don't look like the classic "buck rub" scraping or fraying of bark, a future occurrence of that issue could cause serious or fatal damage to the plant. If you think it's a risk, then encircling the plant with a wire cage/fencing might help discourage bucks from trying to use it as a "scratching post" for their antlers, which they do in late summer or autumn as they scrape the velvet off of mature antler growth. It's possible the plant's main trunk/stems are too short or slender for that now, but may be a consideration for the future.  When watering, make sure the plant needs irrigation before watering on a schedule or regular frequency, especially as the soil is cooling and water use by plants has lessened this time of year. (Any time of year, feel the soil about five or six inches deep in the root zone and water only once it's become somewhat dry to the touch at that depth. If still damp, watering can wait.) In the wild, witchhazel seem to grow in very well-drained or even drier woods compared to lower areas near streams or sources of consistent moisture.  Miri