Putting in a New Lawn

Question: Hello,
Last fall (late October / early November), we tried to establish a new lawn after taking down a century barn and building a new pole building.  We knew that it was a bit late in the season, however, we wanted to be sure the ground was somehow covered before winter.  We graded the area with machinery and then by hand.  Next, we added lime and fertilizer - the types and amounts were recommended by our local agricultural seed center.  Next, we spread seed and then straw.  Except for a small patch just east of the new building, the seed did not sprout prior to cold winter temperatures.  The area is slightly sloped and water (and probably seed, fertilizer and lime) runs off slowly and does not "puddle" excessively.  
I have several questions:
1. Our contractor used heavy machinery.  I am afraid that the soil is somewhat compacted.  Would it be a good idea to aerate this spring?  With regards to aeration, is it best to "pull plugs" or use "slicer tines" - keeping in mind that the ground is covered with slightly decomposed straw?
2. The soil is not pure clay - but probably could use the addition of some organic matter.  Would it be good to top dress this spring?  What kind of organic matter would you suggest?  Compost - leaf or mushroom?  Suggestions for incorporating the top dress?
3. The area is still covered (mostly) with straw.  This might present a problem if we use rakes or power equipment to prepare the area.  Suggestions?
4. Soil testing.  I am afraid that with all of the rain we have received over the past few months, the fertilizer and lime applied in the fall has run off of the property.  How does one get a soil test kit?  Where is it sent to get analyzed?  Turn around time?  Cost?
5. We are considering renting a Ventrac Aera-vator which has a seeder, or renting a Ventrac Aerator and then hand seeding.  Do you have experience with this equipment?  Other recommendations?
6. Any other information you had about establishing a lawn would be helpful.  
I have uploaded some photographs to help you understand my questions.
Thank you.

responder: Catherine Freay  Replied March 30, 2023, 10:01 AM EDT
response: I would be patient and wait for the seed to germinate as temperatures warm up.    You should be able to see germinated seedlings by late April or early May in most years. An assessment can be made at this time if additional overseeding needs to be done. If the newly seeded areas appear to be a little thin, you shouldn't necessarily feel your fall efforts were a failure, as it is quite common to have to do a little additional reseeding in the spring. However, do allow enough time for the seeds to come up. Don't be too hasty to get in and start tearing things up; you just may be destroying all of the good work done the previous fall. As for a soil test, again wait for warmer temperatures.  I have attached a link on how to perform a soil test and where get one.  Other places to check: call your local extension office for a list of places locally that do testing.  Sometimes your local Soil & Water Conservation District will have the soil testing kits.  A basic test is usually around $20.   I would focus on fertilizing after the lawn is established .  Based on your photos, the grade is not that steep.  Snowfall over the winter helps keep grass seed and fertilizer/amendments in place. In the future, don't put lime down unless a soil test indicates it is needed.   Soil Testing for Ohio Lawns, Landscapes, Fruit Crops, and Vegetable Gardens | Ohioline (osu.edu) Do not worry about core aeration or topdressing at this time. Give the seedlings a chance to germinate and establish.    Care of newly established turf  More establishments fail due to improper follow-up care than all other facets of lawn establishment. As the newly established turf matures, it must be irrigated and mowed on a regular basis. Many new stands also need additional fertilizer and herbicide applications. Traffic must be limited since turfgrass wear tolerance during the establishment phase is extremely poor.   Figure 21. Irrigation of newly established turfWatering In the weeks following establishment, grass root systems are delicate and shallow and seedlings cannot withstand severe moisture stress. Whether the lawn is established from seed or from sod, it will probably need regular, sometimes daily, irrigation (Fig. 21). The soil should be moist at all times, but not excessively wet. This can usually be accomplished by light, frequent irrigation. Irrigation can be reduced during rainy periods, in cool and overcast conditions, and if the seedbed is properly mulched.Mowing Newly established turf needs to be mowed on a regular basis (Fig. 22). Regular removal of small amounts of leaf tissue is much less stressful to your turf than infrequent removal of large amounts of tissue. Begin mowing newly established turf with a light-weight mower when grass plants are no more than one-third higher than the desired cutting height. Thus, if you want to mow the turf at three inches, begin mowing just before it reaches four inches in height. Figure 22. Mowing newly established turfAn important consideration in mowing new establishments is how soon the turf is able to withstand the weight of the mower and the person doing the mowing. You can test this by walking onto the new turf and looking to see if the grass plants move back into an upright position where you have stepped. If they do, you can probably begin mowing. If not, you risk trampling the new seedlings into the soil.Fertilization Sometimes starter fertilizer applications are not enough to sustain rapid growth of new establishments and additional fertilizer is required. An application of ½ lb nitrogen/1000 sq ft 4 to 8 weeks after applying the starter fertilizer helps to thicken the new turf. In your case, once the grass seedlings are actively up and actively growing - usually in May.Weed control Newly established turf is very sensitive to most herbicides, and applications should be avoided unless a severe weed infestation occurs and you are absolutely sure the herbicide will not interfere with the growth of the turf. Herbicide labels usually have precautionary statements concerning the rate and length of time after seeding the product can be safely applied. Many broadleaf herbicides, for example, should not be applied until 4 to 6 weeks following establishment.Traffic control Keep all foot and vehicular traffic off the newly established turf until it is well rooted and has been mowed several times. Seedlings can be bruised or uprooted if trampled in the early stages of development. Traffic on sod restricts root development and leads to thinning. If necessary, place signs and/or barriers around the lawn to discourage traffic. - From Penn State University

responder: The Question Asker Replied March 30, 2023, 10:13 AM EDT
response: Thank you for the information and the encouragement.LauraOn Thu, Mar 30, 2023 at 10:01 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote: