SOS: We had bad outbreaks of Rhizoctonia solani grass fungus 2 years. Nothing is working!

Question: I hope you can direct me to experts, articles, better chemicals that can be used to control or prevent outbreaks of Rhizoctonia solani in areas of our 12,000 foot lawn, or professional lawn treatment experts you recommend in my area. I believe our lawn has had this disease many years, 5-6”circular yellowish brown patches of grass mostly on the south side of our house, in sandy loam soil. I thought it might be caused by dry sandy soil, shallow growing cherry tree roots, now gone, brown patch fungus or Japanese beetles. We got rid of the beetles with milky spores, trook the trees down, and added another rotating sprinkler head. But a severe Rhizoctonia solani  disease outbreak occurred last year, a wet rainy, hot summer, after I apparently dragged a hose through a patch of mycelium in its reproductive phase, early morning, while applying fungicide to different varieties of flowers on three sides of my house. (Since I cover myself in plastic with a face shield, vision is foggy, impaired. Early is better, later gets too hot! I believe that was mid to late July.  A 3" spiral pattern of straw colored  grass that died appeared mid August, like the hose would make, after a couple of weeks, in the areas I dragged the hose, on three sides of our house and back to where we store it. I had used the hose to apply the fungicides (to flowers, not to the grass) and water a flower box, the fungus killed the grass in a 3” wide linear spiral. 
I thoroughly researched the disease on line, and because there was a huge patch of dead grass near the place I keep the hose, I realized it was Rhizoctonia solani, though I had not noticed the sexual reproduction symptoms. On my hands and knees in fall, I hacked up all the dead grass roots. We bought the best thatcher we could find on line, and removed 2,200 lbs of thatch, based on the weight per paper recycle bag, by ourselves at ages 78 and 80. Last year, we also bought an Earthway rotary applicator for applying fungicides, fertilizer, and seed. We applied the two fungicides at the curative rate. I found most recommended on line, Scott's Disease-Ex .31 azoxystrobin and alternated with Bio-Advanced propiconazole one month later, at the rate recommended for curative purposes. In late fall, we planted the seed recommended by two large local garden chains, Jonathan Green Black Beauty, with less 30% annual rye, for sun and shade.  This early May, after, we removed the thatch caused by the annual rye that died, we applied granular 12-0-12 fertilizer, (Our soil is very high in phosphorus and low in potash), the grass grew in thick, dark green, and gorgeous, with no signs of brown spots, so healthy looking, as of late June! I had greatly reduced the nitrogen from the 28-0-4 our lawn service, had applied. I had asked for aeration. But he didn’t provide it, and he insisted chemical aeration was better than manual (Now I know he was wrong. I suspect the chemical aeration was also high nitrogen? We fired them last year. As a recent breast cancer survivor, I try to use organic measures, but our soil is alkali, so I could not use baking soda.)  
I read “The Rhizoctonia fungus usually occurs when night-time temperatures remain above 68 degrees Fahrenheit and daytime temperatures are in the 80s or above for five days.“ I used that as a guide for application of fungicides this year.
This early summer, 2024, we applied the Scott's azoxystrobin lawn fungicide, at the preventive rate, a day or two before the night temps were predicted to "raise above 67 degrees for five days", as I read we should do, and watered it in lightly with our sprinkler, which we run sparingly now, only after testing the soil for moisture reveals the grass needs it, since there has been a lot of rain in Michigan, both last year and this year. One month later, we applied the Bio-Advanced propiconazole, preventive rate. A few weeks later, early July, the grass developed early symptoms of brown patch, yellow green grass patches, so 2 weeks after the last application, we applied another preventive rate of Scotts azoxystrobin on the lawn that developed the patches, (2 applications = the curative rate) and lightly watered it in. Two days later, we put on the second application of low nitrogen 12-0-12 fertilizer, because the grass was losing it's green color in the sun, and turning brownish in places other than where we had the disease last year, looking like it needed fertilizer.  4 days after the second application of the Scotts azoxystrobin, and two days after the fertilizer application, which we had only watered 15 minutes. It rained heavily through the night, and in the morning, at 8:00 AM, I found an outbreak of mycelium, snow or frost looking, all over now dead grass patches where we fertilized.  We immediately mixed up the maximum strength Neem oil, which the manufacturer says can be used to treat lawn fungus and the hand sprayed each patch where mycelium appeared, but the grass is already dead in all the places we found it. Fortunately enough, half our lawn is a very steep 165 foot long hill. We had not put any fertilizer on it yet, and it has not shown mycelium but has some brown patches, although some of that could be disease or just sun damage, but no mycelium showed up, so we will wait until cooler temperatures to fertilize the hill.  
Neem oil has at least temporarily controlled/ possibly cured fire blight on my raspberries, I believe. Symptoms have disappeared. We hand sprayed it on the lawn with hand pump spray bottles (so, a light spray), only the outbreak areas, carefully avoiding stepping on the outbreak patches.  (Our larger 2 gallon pump failed, after we started to use it a bit, which could have saturated the mycelium patches,. Are there any pumps that don’t stop working, after a few uses?).  I have the Gilmore, a very good hose-end sprayer, but did not want to use it for fear of spreading the disease with the hose, like what happened to cause a severe outbreak 2023.  Since the weather is cooler now and I haven’t seen any mycelium, am I right to conclude the fungus is not spreading, and I don’t need to treat with either of the two fungus treatments? I am desperate to find some chemical that cures it or at least stops it from spreading because it is now appearing in places it wasn’t last year. I saw long lists of chemicals available to lawn professionals, but have no idea which are best for this fungus. I have done everything non-chemical, suggested like watering only when I test the soil for moisture, low nitrogen fertilizer, thatching twice now, a year apart, avoiding foot traffic on brown areas especially when the lawn is wet or covered with dew) If you know of a service experienced in my lawn fungus, please recommend them. Any advice or help will be greatly appreciated! I also hand raked smaller areas this year in May-June, thinking the lawn was protected by the funguicides, to dethatch areas, but I think I spread it.

responder: Edward A.  Replied August 20, 2024, 9:59 PM EDT
response: Hello Carol, Unfortunately, we cannot recommend any specific service providers. The Michigan Nursery and Landscape Association has a list of professionals that are certified in their specialties. Here is the directory that you can use to find Turf Management professionals in your area. https://www.plantmichigangreen.com/aws/MNLA/pt/sp/layout_directory?get_content_from_session=1 In the upper left, choose Turf Management in the drop down, enter a radius and enter your zip code. The directory will give you professionals in your area that you can perform further research on. As you have experienced, fungus infections can be very destructive and extremely difficult to control. Fungus organisms are extremely adept at hiding out until growth conditions are perfect. Then a relatively small amount of inoculum can lead to millions of new fungus spores. It is counterproductive to believe that you will be able to completely eradicate the fungus spores causing your turf problems. Fungicides are strong chemicals and only a limited number of them are available for homeowner use. Professional applicators have access to many more fungicides than homeowners can apply. And they are trained in the safe use of these chemicals. Knowing the actual fungus strain is critical for effective treatment. Have you taken a sample of the fungal grass to send to the MSU Diagnostic Lab? That might be a good idea so the professionals know exactly what they are treating for. Carefully capture a specimen of the diseased grass and send it to the MSU Diagnostic Labs for positive identification. The following website describes the services and the fee structure for analysis performed by the Diagnostic Lab.: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/ This website provides directions and tips for taking a good sample: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/submit-samples/ When you take a turf sample, take one at the border of the fungus infection so the lab has infected and unaffected grass plants to analyze. Good Luck.

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 21, 2024, 1:04 PM EDT
response: Dear "Expert", I will contact a few of the professionals on the list you sent me. Thank you for that.  I'm still wondering if the fungus is able to spread, now that the weather has turned inhospitable for the  reproductive phase. Are we able to fertilize the half of our property we didn't fertilize just before the outbreak, at the 12-0-12 rate? The two fungicides didn't work, and the  weather for the reproductive phase seems over. Would it still be productive  to put more fungicide on our grass, if a professional does it?  We now have places that were not infected last  year, and more places have shown up since I first noticed the outbreak?  I have experienced "professionals" are still inclined to charge for services, even even when not needed - it's hard to find honest contractors.

responder: Edward A.  Replied August 26, 2024, 10:02 PM EDT
response: Hello Carol, It would be irresponsible on my part to recommend more chemical usage, when the fungicides have not been effective thus far. Either they were not applied at the proper time or not applied in the proper way, or the fungicide is not effective on the fungus you have, I would definitely recommend identification of the pathogen before applying any more treatments. The fungus may be similar to what you believe it to be, but it might require different treatment. You can apply fertilizer to the balance of your yard, but it would not be advised without a definite identification of the fungus/pathogen you have. Could it be a weedy grass turning brown? Could it be another fungus other than the one you believe it to be?  You seem to have a number or fungal issues in your gardens as well as lawn. It could be related to dense shade, limited airflow and compacted soil. Have you considered getting more light into the lawn and garden area and depleting foliage to promote airflow?

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 27, 2024, 5:32 PM EDT
response: Thank you very much for answering my appeal for help!  But I'm still very concerned, because the conditions for another outbreak are maximum, 73 night -96 day and have no time to submit samples and wait for answers. Lawn care providers, and I have not heard from any from their organization yet. My experience is EVERYONE SAYS THEY ARE EXPERTS, as part of the sales speil, so they could make the problem worse. Our "lake-safe" caretakers last year, before the outbreak, told me they don't provide manual aeration because they had a chemical aeration treatment that was better, and they "aerated" my soil using patent protected unknown chemicals, which probably had nitrogen and I think at least contributed to the worst brown patch ever. (As cancer survivors, we avoid chemicals) Is is there someone else you can send my letter to, who maybe has personal experience with this particular fungus? ? Our lawn, only where infected, looks worse this year than last year, despite our best efforts thatching, reseeding etc. Is is there someone else you can send my letter to, who maybe has personal experience with this particular fungus?  Our lawn where infected, looks worse this year than last year, despite our best efforts thatching. etc. Early August this year, in the early morning After it rained heavily, when the grass was wet with dew, I saw the mycelium on all the dead grass patches. It looked just like the close up photo of it I found on the internet, like striated white hoarfrost . I am positive this is brown patch, Rhizoctonia solani. Last year, I had a 30" patch of dead grass next to my hose, the only huge patch we've ever had, though I didn't see the mycelium, but read that outbreaks occur after hot nights above 67 degrees, as well as days in the 80s or above, and a lot of rain. or over watering with a sprinkler. I figured out that during a very rainy spell, in the early morning, when I dragged my hose through the patch, my vision was obscured by the scratched face shield I wear, and subsequent fog from breathing  under it, though I use anti-fog spray on the shield.  This year, as I said, I saw the mycelium and it was all over every patch of dead grass in the areas affected. We have good air circulation, since we are on a 30" hill on the east shore of our lake (winds blow mostly from the lake east to the west). The grass on the hill has 10 mature oak trees. I also dragged the hose over a portion of the hill last year, but the fungus didn't return on the grass under the trees this year.  The worst areas are the ones that get the most sun and most breeze. Our grass we over-seeded and seeded as needed, last fall, this year was  gorgeous though June, and most of it still looks gorgeous. until the fungus came back in the most sunny areas. Last year, I finally convinced my husband not to water regularly or whenever he sees brown grass,. We checked the brown spots with a water meter probe before watering after the outbreak last year. This year, we haven't watered much at all, after checking the moisture meter, and shortened the sprinkling time. To answer your question, we have no weeds in our lawn. My husband treats them individually, weekly.  I think we spread the fungus by raking dead grass from brown spots, thinking the fungicide was protecting the grass, when it didn’t. There is no mention of how long it takes to become effective on the bags of either Scotts or Bio-Advanced fungicide, and we applied the second treatment watering it in as directed, two days later, the 12-0-12 granular fertilizer, and four days after the fungicide another outbreak occurred. Scotts is supposed to be systemic.  Is is there someone else who specializes in turf management you can send my letter to, who, maybe, has personal experience with this particular fungus?  Our lawn, in areas infected, looks worse this year than last year, despite our best efforts thatching. etc.

responder: Erin Hill, PhD  Replied August 29, 2024, 11:39 AM EDT
response: Carol,  My name is Dr. Erin Hill and I am one of the plant diagnosticians at Michigan State University Plant & Pest Diagnostics. I assisted Ed in his previous response to your concerns. I can appreciate your frustration with your situation, but I would like to reiterate that no more advice from MSU or our first responders can be offered based on written information alone. A sample would be need to be sent to our lab (or another diagnostic lab if you choose), so that the cause of these symptoms can be properly identified. While wait time is required, as Ed indicated, it would be irresponsible and potentially hazardous for us make any further treatment recommendations without concrete evidence.   Information on how to sample turf is available at: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/submit-samples/#Residential%20Turf  General submission form & address is available at: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/forms  Sincerely, Erin Hill