MIRAGE-Benchmark/MIRAGE huggingface dataset:
Color of Maple leaves

Question: This is a Bowhall Red Maple, planted in yard May 2024. What is causing the leaf discoloration?

responder: Jacki D., Master Gardener Diagnostician Volunteer (Washington, Multnomah and Clackamas Counties) Oregon State University Extension Service Volunteer Metro Master Gardeners (http://metromastergardeners.org/) Replied August 26, 2024, 8:15 PM EDT
response: This doesn’t look good, but newly planted trees can struggle the first years. Tell us everything you can think of about the method you used for planting. This WSU publication explains how to do it, and has excellent illustrations about what might go wrong). Also, provide photos of the root zone/trunk, and a further distance view showing the greater growing area. Tree roots need to establish into the native soil of your site. Too much or too little water if often a culprit. When you open the soil near the tree, what do you find: hard or soggy? The tree is nearing the time to drop leaves, so I hope to troubleshoot this with you before fall color appears.

responder: The Question Asker Replied September 10, 2024, 11:02 PM EDT
response: Hi - here are a few more photos of the site conditions. I fill a tree bag at least once a week for this treeOn Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 7:15 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Jacki D., Master Gardener Diagnostician Volunteer (Washington, Multnomah and Clackamas Counties) Oregon State University Extension Service Volunteer Metro Master Gardeners (http://metromastergardeners.org/) Replied September 11, 2024, 2:45 PM EDT
response: The second and third photos came through. I see there are some leaves with the yellowing between the veins, and many without the discoloration. The tree doesn’t look drought-stressed. I’ll check with another expert about the leaves. It could be a wait & see situation, allowing the winter for the roots to establish. Check out the OSU publication EC 1438 about new trees. I see overhead wires and a crowded location with fence and building that may impact long-term tree growth. Those are issues to be aware of. More immediately, watch for damage caused by the staking. See page 12 of the publication EC 1438. Specifically, the tree trunk must have movement for it to grow a strong trunk, and don’t allow ties to cut into the bark. I can’t see how tight the wires are, or if you have them padded enough. As a last caution, the fir tree in the front seems to have a double crown, which is a risk for failure as the tree grows. A certified arborist can offer a hazard assessment of the tree, and options for safety. Here is information about certified arborists.

responder: The Question Asker Replied September 12, 2024, 7:22 PM EDT
response: Thank you for answering my questions! The tree ties are loose enough and the stakes were put in outside the rootball when I installed the tree. Prob just first year stress.On Wed, Sep 11, 2024 at 1:45 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Is this poison ivy?

Question: I am in a wooded area near Park Lake in Carlton County. We’ve always been told that poison ivy does not grow here, but I’m concerned about this vine. The leaves are similar to the toothed-edge photo of Poison Ivyon the UMN website. Can you identify? All parts appear to be green. No flowers. The 3rd photo shows the underside of the leaf cluster.

responder: Maureen Graber  Replied August 25, 2024, 12:09 PM EDT
response: Good Morning Lori,  Thank you for contacting the U of M Extension Service.  No, this is not poison ivy. Here is a link to poison ivy: https://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants/pestmanagement/weedcontrol/noxiouslist/poisonivy This plant is Virgin's bowers (Clematis virginiana) . https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/shrub/virgins-bower It is the only native Minnesota clematis. It will bloom about this time of year with beautiful small white flowers.  I would not destroy it.  This information states:  While Clematis species are very popular in the nursery trade, this one is conspicuously absent, much due to its incredible vigor and small flower size. It should not be so easily overlooked.  It is a lovely plant. I would put up a trellis for it or plant it in a location where it can thrive and climb on something like a tree.  Good Luck!

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 25, 2024, 3:38 PM EDT
response: Thank you! Now that I can handle it with confidence, I will train it in a more acceptable direction.  I’ve never noticed flowers on it, but will look more closely the next time we’re at the cabin. Thanks so much!LoriOn Aug 25, 2024, at 11:09 AM, Ask Extension wrote:﻿
Inground plant leaves dying from soil up.

Question: Many different plants in different beds have their leaves dying from the ground up as the summer progresses.
Mums, Coreopsis , monarda, butterfly bush, ornamental grasses, etc. White flies also detected.
I believe it's the soil.
Help!
 What can I do now, and of course, next spring?
Thank you so much!

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 26, 2024, 9:35 AM EDT
response: Hi Anne, Thank you for contacting us! Your pictures are very familiar, I have seen many of the same. This has been a hot, humid, rainy summer. The white flies will certainly cause leaves to brown and drop. The other issue may be powdery mildew. It is also late in the season and plants get tired. It sounds like this is a recent problem from your email, not one that has been around all summer.  Neem oil is good for powdery mildew, however it is late in the season for treatment. I am sending an article on white flies. This will be helpful.  A couple other thoughts: Are your plants too crowded? Plants do need to be divided so adequate air flows between plants. You can stop by our Kingston office and pick up a Rutgers soil testing kit. The fee is $25, there are options for "upgrades" depending on what you want to know about your soil. If you come in we will explain the kit to you. As fall is approaching, you can just leave the plants to winter over and wait and see what spring brings. It is best to do clean up in spring so beneficial insects and pollinators have places to stay safe. Some people are bothered by the "mess" and like to clean up in fall. I hope this is helpful to you, Thank you! Cynthia S. MGV https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g7275#:~:text=Whiteflies%20damage%20plants%20by%20sucking,drop%20prematurely%20

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 27, 2024, 10:48 AM EDT
response: Hi Cynthia,  Thank you for your prompt reply.  I have had this same problem for years. My gardens are way too crowded! Especially this summer when all plants seemed to explode with growth. I will open up more space in all my beds. I hesitate to transfer thinned plants, as I'm afraid I will spread the problem. Any advice on this? Thanks again, Chris Nadherny (Anne) On Mon, Aug 26, 2024, 9:35 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 28, 2024, 9:25 AM EDT
response: We are in the office today until noon if you'd like talk about this you you can call us at<personal data hidden>. Since it looks like a mildew problem you would want to clean up the dead leaves and put them in a bag so the mildew does not spread. I agree with you, since it is already over crowded there, the plants you thin don't need to be planted elsewhere, you can dispose of them. Next year -earlier in the season at the first sign of wilting, you can spray with either neem oil or copper sulfide - both are organic products for powdery mildew. Good luck. Karen R Master Gardener Volunteer
Diseased Snow Crab Tree?

Question: This young snow crab tree largely looked shallow in its canopy this summer compared to neighbors trees. Then it began to get spots on the leaves before they turned yellow and fell off. It’s clearly in trouble. What can I do to help it recover?

responder: Deb Kroon  Replied August 24, 2024, 8:28 PM EDT
response: Thank you for reaching out to ask2.extension. The weather is responsible for your trees fungus.  Depending on how big your tree is will determine if you can treat it yourself or if you want to hire an arborist to do so. My suggestion would be to see what it does next year.  Be sure to clean up all of the leaves and debris from the tree and dispose of it. There are a couple of things that you can treat it with.  Make a homemade baking soda spray. Mix one teaspoon of baking soda with a few drops of liquid soap into a quart of water and spray the leaves. You can also add a few drops of insecticidal soap to help the solution stick to the leaves. However, using too much of this solution can damage your plants. You can also find products by searching online for  treatment of Dothideomycetes which is a large class of fungi that is causing the disease. If you go for chemical treatment, please follow all instructions on the label.

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 25, 2024, 9:55 AM EDT
response: Thank you!Mary On Aug 24, 2024, at 7:28 PM, Ask Extension wrote:﻿
Potato plant pest

Question: Can you tell me what is eating the leaves of my potato plants? Some of the plants are completely denuded - will I still have a potato crop? Should I dig them now if the leaves are nearly gone? I have never seen this before in my potato gardens, in Homer or Moose Pass. However little slugs have been a consistent problem with my lettuce crops. Thank you.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 27, 2024, 6:12 PM EDT
response: Hi There,  Slugs, flea beetles, and larva of moths and butterflies are the primary leaf eaters.  This time of year, there are many slugs of varying sizes of half an inch to about 2 inches.  In my own garden on the Kenai Peninsula, I have noticed more slug damage on potatoes than in normal years.  Slugs will also feed on some of the potatoes at or near the soil surface.  At and around September 1st, we typically cut the tops off our potato plants and then dig them up by mid-september.  Cutting the tops off prior to harvesting causes the potato skin to thicken and harden, which allows them to be less damaged during harvest and have better storing ability.  If you need more information, feel free to email me directly at <personal data hidden>

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 27, 2024, 10:53 PM EDT
response: Wow, thank you very much - your noting slug damage this year in your own gardens pretty well convinces me who the culprit is as I do see a lot of the little slugs around the property. My lettuce crop was also badly damaged in a similar way. However I also plant lettuces in self-watering containers on the deck, and those lettuces are always unscathed. I’m grateful to your advice about clipping the tops off the potato plants at the first of September - I didn’t know we could do that and have always let the plants die down naturally and then dig them in the first week of October. I’m going to give your method a try this year so thank you again!

On Aug 27, 2024, at 2:12 PM, Ask Extension <ask> wrote:</ask>
plant ID

Question: Seeking confirmation of ID....for specimen in photo.  EUROPEAN MOUNTAIN ASH?  Sorbus aucuparia? Specimen does NOT have berries or flowers.  It is about 10 ft tall! Trying to assess if it's replant-able ....

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 26, 2024, 12:29 PM EDT
response: To be certain I would need a picture of the whole tree too.  However what you have described and what I see from the leaves it definitely looks like a European Mt. Ash.  Send me more pictures if you like, and if you have any other questions I can help.

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 26, 2024, 6:32 PM EDT
response: Thanks very much-- I will try to get some other photosOn Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 8:29 AM <personal data hidden> [via Relay] <<personal data hidden>> wrote:  Forwarded from <personal data hidden>  by Firefox Relay Premium    0 email trackers removed  Manage this mask

responder: The Question Asker Replied September 05, 2024, 3:12 PM EDT
response: ok....to follow up...some addtl photos

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied September 06, 2024, 11:53 AM EDT
response: Yes this looks like a European Mt. Ash.

responder: The Question Asker Replied September 06, 2024, 3:01 PM EDT
response: Hmm, very well...I was thinking it was something else, because this specimen in my yard never flowered and never bore red berries. Cheers

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied September 06, 2024, 6:26 PM EDT
response: Yes I am not sure why it didn't flower but I am pretty certain it is a mt. ash.
Rugosa Rose Problem

Question: My rugosa Rose has bumps and discoloring on the leaves.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 23, 2024, 5:08 PM EDT
response: Thanks for your question. I suspect that your plant has been infected by some type of fungus that causes these leaf discolorations. It is probably too late in the season (late August 2024) for any effective fungicide treatment. To the extent that it is feasible, remove these affected leaves and discard in the thrash. Also, rake up and discard any leaves that have fallen. If I had to make a guess as to what specific disease is present in your roses, it might be a downy mildew infection. If you see indication of this condition in spring 2025, consider applying a fungicide. If you go down this route, be sure that the product label indicates it is effective against downy mildew. See the following for further information on these and related points: https://www.almanac.com/rose-diseases-identification-photos-and-treatment https://extension.psu.edu/addressing-downy-mildew-and-powdery-mildew-in-the-home-garden - :~:text=Downy mildew is potentially more,all plants within a week. https://www.marinrose.org/care-basics/pests-diseases/downy-mildew/ If you want to know what specific pathogen is infecting your roses, consider submitting plant samples to a diagnostic disease laboratory for an analysis. This would be a definitive way of getting to the bottom of things. Both Wisconsin and Minnesota have excellent labs to do this. Before submitting anything to either of them, call first as to what type of samples should be submitted. Both have a nominal charge for their analysis. See https://pdc.umn.edu/ https://pddc.wisc.edu/clinic-overview/ Good luck. Thanks for consulting us. Please get back if you have any further related questions.

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 27, 2024, 8:21 AM EDT
response: Thank you so much!Sent from my iPhone On Aug 23, 2024, at 4:08 PM, Ask Extension wrote:﻿

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 27, 2024, 8:24 AM EDT
response: Glad to have been of assistance.  Good luck with your Rugosa rose.  Thanks for consulting with us.
Possible hosta virus

Question: I have several hostas with odd looking leaves, is this the hosta virus?

responder: Barbara, Anoka County MG, TCA Replied August 25, 2024, 5:12 PM EDT
response: I think the first two look like some insect damage.  The bottom photo is of a hosta that is supposed to have thos distinctive markings.

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 27, 2024, 8:21 AM EDT
response: Thank you, this made my day!Sent from my iPhone On Aug 25, 2024, at 4:12 PM, Ask Extension wrote:﻿

responder: Barbara, Anoka County MG, TCA Replied August 27, 2024, 7:12 PM EDT
response: You are welcome.
My hydrangea

Question: My hydrangea has suffered with this summer's excessive heat and strong storms. The heavy rains have left the branches that were already heavy with flowers severely bent over to the ground. I'm concerned that if I don't prune the branches severely they will stay bent and not be very pretty next spring. Do you agree that I should do prune the plant way back and if so should I do the pruning now or wait until October or November? Please advise.

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied August 23, 2024, 3:29 PM EDT
response: This phenomenon is quite common for hydrangeas, and if you dead-head the stems (clip off spent flowers), that may alleviate some of the weight on the branches when rain, dew, or irrigation wets them down. You do not need to prune the shrub back further, and sometimes doing so will interfere with flower production the following year. If you want to try pruning back the most arched stems back to shorten them, do so now. Do not prune hydrangeas (or other shrubs for that matter) in autumn unless dead or broken stems (like from storm damage) need to be addressed. If you want to adjust the plant's shape some more in late winter, when the branches are easier to see, you can trim then as well, but in that case you'd be removing most of the upcoming season's flowers.  Miri

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 24, 2024, 10:34 AM EDT
response: Thanks so much for the excellent advice!Sarah  On Friday, August 23, 2024 at 03:29:09 PM EDT, Ask Extension wrote:

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied August 26, 2024, 8:53 AM EDT
response: You're welcome!
identify weed

Question: Hello - before I use glyphosate on an area of about 15 square feet of this weed, I want to be sure I have correctly identified it as Bermuda grass.  Are you able to tell what it is from my photos?  BTW, I had been trying to keep it under control, but we were away for 3 weeks. Amazing how quickly this grew.

Thanks as always.

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied August 23, 2024, 3:12 PM EDT
response: Grass ID is challenging from photos, since fine details in grass structure that are hard to see are used to separate similar species. From what we can see, though, this does look (and sound) like Bermudagrass. You can use a grassy weed ID key from Ohio State to see if it has the key traits of that species.  Even if it's a different perennial grass, the same approach will be needed to eliminate it -- physical removal, chemical removal (systemic herbicide), or both (digging, followed by spraying what grows back).  Miri

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 24, 2024, 8:17 AM EDT
response: Miri - I have avoided chemical concoctions from agribusiness for years, 
but I don't see how I could possibly get rid of this stuff without 
digging deeply in this entire patch.  I have been struggling against 
this weed all summer,and it is tough tough tough.

When you mention systemic herbicide, is glyphosate what you are talking 
about, or are there better alternatives?

- Jim

On 8/23/24 3:12 PM, Ask Extension wrote:
>

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied August 26, 2024, 9:03 AM EDT
response: Glyphosate is one of the most commonly-used systemic herbicides, yes, though other ingredients exist. Glyphosate is non-selective, meaning it will affect any plant the spray contacts. Triclopyr, another often-used systemic, is somewhat selective, where it will control lots of broadleaf plants but is not very effective on grasses. You might be able to find an herbicide using another ingredient that is labeled for suppression of grassy weeds in turf (like the fenoxaprop mentioned in our Bermudagrass web page), but they are less common. While an organic herbicide would "burn-down" the weed foliage, killing all sprayed above-ground growth, it will do the same to turfgrass foliage, and weed regrowth would need repeat treatments until it exhausts itself trying to resprout. Given that amount of effort and the quantity of herbicide involved to take that approach, physically digging out the weed(s) would probably be more practical and efficient at that point.  Miri
Chard damage

Question: What could be chewing chard leaves like this. I see no worms,bugs, etc and there’s a screen over top se it’s not birds

responder: Loisr1  Replied August 23, 2024, 1:30 PM EDT
response: Dear Gail,  From the looks of it, this seems to be either slug damage or caterpillar damage. Although birds cannot get in to your crop, slugs can crawl in from below. Did you find frass…excrement..around or on the leaves? Maybe a night time investigation would turn up the culprits. Spraying the leaves with a chemical, even a biologically based one, would not be preferred. For caterpillars products with BT are recommended, but again, probably not on the leaves that you are about to eat.  Finding the culprits and hand picking would be the best gambit. Cleaning up the area of any spot where they could hide out would be useful.  There are two products which contain iron phosphate which occurs naturally in the soil which could be used to try to kill the slugs. But again, with a crop you are going to eat, hand picking is superior. https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/plant/vegetable/swisschard/leavesholes.html This article might help with your diagnosis. Please get back to us if this does seem to be helpful.

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 23, 2024, 5:15 PM EDT
response: Thanks but they must be sneaky slugs because I’ve never seen them!Sent from my iPhone On Aug 23, 2024, at 1:30 PM, Ask Extension wrote:﻿

responder: Loisr1  Replied August 23, 2024, 5:31 PM EDT
response: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/slugs#:~:text=Damage%20caused%20by%20slugs&text=Because%20of%20their%20mouthparts%2C%20they,can%20injure%20plants%2C%20especially%20seedlings. This is a slightly different article I think which might add information to your search for culprits. Do try the night time search with flashlight if you can. I would be glad to search for other possible villains.
Caring for tree

Question: I’m having trouble submitting so hope this goes through. 
How do we care for this 12 year old honeycrisp apple tree that is now producing fruit.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 28, 2024, 9:17 AM EDT
response: Thanks for reaching out to the UVM Extension Master Gardener Program Volunteers. You’ve left me with an open question, so I will leave you with some reading and allow you to come back with more specific questions if these guides don’t do the trick. One of my concerns is that I see multiple trunks in the photo. Are all these trunks producing fruit or am I seeing ‘sucker’ growth from the root stock? Any growth coming out from the ground that is not on the trunk with the graft union is a sucker and needs to be removed to help promote growth to the correct trunk - which is the intended variety planted. Before you make any cuts,  1. Be sure you have a “grafted” Honeycrisp.  2. Most apple trees are grafted. Grafted trees have a graft line that you can see (but sometimes not). Look for the scar where the rootstock and the scion were joined.  3. If the apple tree is own-rooted, then the new branches will produce the same fruit as the original tree, but it always takes many years for the fruit to form.  The plant pathologist provided the following info.:  They should prune the tree to keep it open to light and air and fertilize in the spring with 10-10-10 or composted manure at 3-5 lbs 10-10-10 or 1-2 bushels of composted manure out to the dripline.Protect the trunk with mouse guards over the winter and rake and destroy fallen leaves this fall.   Here's a great resource for you to read - https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-apples  I hope this information is helpful.

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 28, 2024, 10:15 AM EDT
response: Thank you! This is great. AnnSent from my iPhone On Aug 28, 2024, at 9:17 AM, Extension Foundation wrote:﻿

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 28, 2024, 10:17 AM EDT
response: Your very welcome!