Failure to thrive peach tree

Question: I have a peach tree that was planted in 2020 as a bare rot transplant. Every year since then it has leafed out and for the last 2 years in flowered. Last year there were a number of small peaches, this year only one or two. Additionally the leaves withered (see picture) and fell prematurely. I have not used any spray but I’m wondering if maybe I should. Can you help me tell what’s happening here? Is there anything I can do to improve the health of this tree or is it toast? Thank you.

responder: David Lowenstein  Replied September 17, 2024, 9:47 PM EDT
response: Peach typically won't produce fruit until year 3. Most of the tree's energy should be allocated towards root and branch formation in the initial years.   Peaches bloom early in MIchigan, and the buds can be killed if there is a frost after bloom. That happened in parts of SE MI this year, leading to a small peach crop.   Young trees should be fertilized each year. with 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 1 pound per inch of trunk diameter or half a pound per year of age. No more than 5 pounds of fertilizer per inch should be applied in a single year. The total amount of fertilizer should be split between a mid-late April and late May fertilizer application.   Your leaves do show some signs of stress, which could be due to lack of water or peach leaf curl. If from peach leaf curl, it can still produce fruit.

responder: The Question Asker Replied September 22, 2024, 10:44 PM EDT
response: This particular peach tree is probably 5 years or so in the ground. I haven't fertilized it in a couple of years now, but I can next spring.  At this point in the season, that tree has already dropped all of its leaves, while the other trees in my yard haven't really started to drop any yet. Is that typical of peach leaf curl? I read that treatment consists of a copper fungicide applied liberally in the fall, after leaves have dropped. By my description, it sounds like I'm good to apply that at any time now?On a related note, but not completely, I also planted a few apple trees, the first one being a Pink Lady that was in a pot at my local feed store, and then in 2020 I planted a few bare root stock trees, different varieties. I had a solid bloom and a few apples from those later trees this year, but the Pink Lady, which was planted about 8 or 9 years ago, has never flowered, never mind borne any fruit, and when considering trunk diameter and height, it has been surpassed by the later trees as well. I did fertilize that Pink Lady tree the first few years after it was planted, but not recently. I'm wondering if this particular variety of apples is known not to produce for a long time, or is there something off with this tree, and if so at what point should I consider replacing it? Thank you. On Tue, Sep 17, 2024 at 9:47 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: David Lowenstein  Replied September 23, 2024, 9:36 AM EDT
response: Copper could be applied now or in the Spring before bud swell.  Pink lady performs better in warmer, drier climates than ours. That could be part of the issue why it is performing poorly. It could also be due to the rootstock. If grown on a dwarf rootstock, it can take as long as 7 - 10 years to flower.   One way to induce flowering is through scoring a tree.  Using a sharp knife, make a single cut to a depth of about one-quarter inch all the way around the trunk or branch. Scoring accomplishes two things. It induces ethylene production and ethylene (a plant growth hormone) will encourage trees to induce buds. It also interferes with movement of carbohydrates out of the upper portion of the tree to the roots making more sugars available in the upper portion of the tree. Timing for scoring is critical. The proper timing is from full bloom to about three weeks after full bloom. Later scoring will not be effective. Scoring will encourage flowering the following year.