Leaves wilting and dying on Lavender Twist Redbud

Question: Hi there, I moved into my home about a year ago and quickly started fixing up the yard which was in really bad shape. Last spring, I planted a Lavender Twist Redbud. It had a great first year and was covered in flowers this spring. Just after the leaves started popping up, everything seemed fine, but then a week ago I realized there wasn't any new leaf growth and then this week I noticed that the few leaves that did open are wilting and dying off. The trunk seems healthy and I haven't noticed anything on the bark. I haven't fertilized since I first planted it and I haven't been watering it since I figured we've been getting enough rain this spring. 

I've attached photos of the leaves, branches and trunk. Really hoping it can still be saved. Thank you in advance!!

responder: Ed Olsen  Replied May 11, 2023, 3:25 PM EDT
response: This type of damage is indicative of a root problem.   Can you submit a picture of the trunk of the tree?  Also can you expose the uppermost root flare for the picture.   https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/bare-root-detail.shtml  Do you know if you have drainage problems with the soil?

responder: The Question Asker Replied May 11, 2023, 4:53 PM EDT
response: Thanks so much for getting back to me. Here are the additional pictures. I went as far down into the soil as I could and stopped when I started seeing the meshy roots like you see in the photo.  I don't know how to tell if there is a drainage problem with the soil, but it's definitely possible. Given the shape the yard was in when I moved in, could it be possible the soil is just completely devoid of nutrients? One other piece of info that might be helpful is that there was a dying fig tree in that spot before the redbud. I don't know how long the fig tree was there but it was really small and I assumed it wasn't doing well because it wasn't cared for properly and there was vinca and ivy all around it. I dug it up and amended the soil with soil enhancer before planting the redbud.On Thu, May 11, 2023 at 3:25 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Ed Olsen  Replied May 15, 2023, 9:15 AM EDT
response: The type of damage (so quickly) is not an indication of nutrition.  Sounds like there was a problem in the spot.  When you planted it, did you dig the hole deeper than the root ball?  That is why this looks like it is a little low, the soil settled.    I would check drainage next to the tree.   Quick soil drainage (percolation) test Dig a hole 12 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter.Fill it with water. The next day, fill the hole with water again.All of the water should drain out within eight hours.If the water drains out more than four inches per hour, the soil is extremely sandy. Less than 1 inch per hour is too slow and may indicate soil compaction, a high clay content, buried debris, a high water table, or a restrictive layer of soil. For help with poorly drained soil go to our Common Soil Problems page and scroll down to "Heavy Soil (clayey) / Compaction / Poor Drainage."     I would lift and replant the tree so that the upper most root (the flare) is slightly above the soil level.  Firm up ths soil at the bottom of the planting hole  before planted.  DO NOT add any amendments or fertilizer.

responder: The Question Asker Replied May 22, 2023, 4:26 PM EDT
response: I was on vacation last week so I just completed the soil drainage test. I filled the hole yesterday and then again at 11am this morning and the water is already completely drained.  I thought I read that redbuds have a root system that grows downwards, but when I was digging the hole, it seemed like there were a ton of roots right at the surface which made me nervous I was going to do damage by digging the drainage hole, but also nervous I am going to hurt the tree when I try to dig it up. Any thoughts? On Mon, May 15, 2023 at 9:15 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Ed Olsen  Replied June 12, 2023, 8:46 AM EDT
response: Transplanting should take place during the dormant season (December through March), if possible. To determine the required size of the root ball, measure the stem caliper (stem diameter six inches above the ground). The root ball to be transplanted should be 10 to 12 inches for each inch of stem caliper. For example, if the stem caliper is 3 inches, then the root ball should be 30 to 36 inches in diameter  The root ball should be about 1/2 to 2/ 3 as deep as the diameter. Dig carefully and completely around the root ball to keep the root ball intact.