Bare branches on Hawthorn tree

Question: We planted 2 Crataegus 'Crusader' thornless Hawthorn trees last summer. They have started leafing out, but some of the upper branches do not have any leaves and the buds look dry. I have attached photos of the 2 trees. Is there anything we can do to promote new leaves on the bare branches?

responder: Jacki D., Master Gardener Diagnostician Volunteer (Washington, Multnomah and Clackamas Counties) Oregon State University Extension Service Volunteer Metro Master Gardeners (http://metromastergardeners.org/) Replied June 13, 2023, 11:55 PM EDT
response: Are the bare branches alive? Scrape a small bit to see if any moisture exists. There are so many possible reasons a new tree can decline that it’s hard to pinpoint the key issues. Describe how you planted the trees, amendments added to the soil? How did you treat the rootball (tease out circling roots? Remove burlap?) How have you cared for the trees since?

responder: The Question Asker Replied June 15, 2023, 3:46 PM EDT
response: The bare branches do not appear to be alive, and the buds that are there look to be dried up. When we planted the trees last fall, the roots were circling the pots and we loosened up the root balls and tried to spread them out a bit. There was no burlap. We added some compost when planting due to our soil being heavy clay.The trees were watered in after planting and have driplines installed around the trees. The drip system was turned on about a month ago and our other trees and shrubs appear to be fine.The only thing I can think of is perhaps there was an air pocket left when the trees were planted? Could that have caused this?Can the trees be salvaged with pruning out the dry branches? Or would you recommend taking them out and starting over?Thank you for your help.Suzanne SwayzeOn Tue, Jun 13, 2023 at 8:55 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Jacki D., Master Gardener Diagnostician Volunteer (Washington, Multnomah and Clackamas Counties) Oregon State University Extension Service Volunteer Metro Master Gardeners (http://metromastergardeners.org/) Replied June 16, 2023, 11:37 AM EDT
response: I don’t recommend taking them out. My most drastic suggestion might be to replant this winter, but that’s not what I’m saying yet. Carefully dig and find the root flare. This slideshow linked is big, but I find the photos are great to show what I mean. Many trees are purchased already planted too deep in the pots, so identifying the correct planting depth is a challenge. Options if too deep include pulling soil back or fully replanting the tree higher. Root pruning at planting time is advised if there are circling roots, but spreading them well can work too. What to do now? I recommend you monitor the moisture at the rootball. Water (and hence, roots) doesn’t move well between different textures. You want to encourage the roots to move beyond the planting medium, then beyond amended planting hole. One way to do this is with adequate (not soggy) watering. Many drip systems are don’t get directly to root balls of new trees. Supplemental weekly deep watering is often needed. Dig into the soil to monitor moisture. I find my fingers the easiest tool. Cut off the dead branches and shape regrowth as needed. OSU EC 1438 is a full tree-planting publication. I hope these trees will look great next spring. I will point out that in a very few years you will have choices to make about which plants to keep. The conifer is a truly large tree, and the Viburnum needs sun but will be shaded. These are just the adjustments that are needed with an establishing landscape.