MIRAGE-Benchmark/MIRAGE huggingface dataset:
Dry brown areas on bean leaves

Question: My bush beans are randomly developing these brown, crumbly regions on their upper leaves. Is this just sun scald, or something more worrying? If it is just sun scald, does that at all mean they need more water, or is it just weather conditions?

responder: Edward A.  Replied July 13, 2023, 3:38 PM EDT
response: Hello Daniel, Here are a couple of good articles on sunscald on green bean plants: https://ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/dry-beans/sunscald/ https://plantvillage.psu.edu/posts/4359-bean-what-is-going-on-with-my-bean-plants Between your description of the location of the affected leaves (top of the plant exposed to sun) and the photo, it appears to be consistent with sunscald. You can remove the affected leaves, provide some shade during the hottest part of the day if that is practical and provide even watering to the plants. You can send this photo to <personal data hidden> for another expert opinion for confirmation. I also looked into fungal (Antracnose) and bacterial (Bacterial Blight) diseases, but the location and formation of the lesions on the leaves were not consistent with either of those causes. https://ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/dry-beans/common-bacterial-blight/ https://plantvillage.psu.edu/topics/bean/infos

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 15, 2023, 6:44 PM EDT
response: I didn't really think it was those diseases either—good to hear you concur, as we have had issues with various things in the past. Usually later in the season, so it would be worrying for them to appear this soon. As for the sun scald, I think they'll just have to tough it out—this is a community garden, we aren't there every day so can't really manage shade cloth or whathaveyou. They don't seem to mind too much overall though.

responder: Edward A.  Replied July 22, 2023, 7:22 AM EDT
response: Hello Daniel, You seem to be a well-informed gardener, but I did want to make one further comment. As you say you have had issues before, do you rotate your crops through differrent parts of the garden, so that species dependent pathogens do not get re-stengthened each year? https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/crop-rotation-vegetable-garden You are probably well aware, but it may help other people that search these answers.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 22, 2023, 10:34 PM EDT
response: I'm aware of crop rotation, yes, though I get to actually practice it less than I'd like due to lack of space—I have a 12x30ft community garden plot, and tilling each year means the soil is somewhat mixed together laterally I think. I do avoid planting the more vulnerable crops in exactly the same place, but often I can't get them further than 6ft away, especially considering two years back as well. And of course any pest/disease that can move will migrate in from any neighbor who has it, too. It would be wonderful to have an old-school country house with beds in a few different places around the property or something, but no such luck.
Fungal (?) treatment for Gambel Oak

Question: My single Gambel oak has a problem and I am interested in finding a treatment, please - thank you.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 11, 2023, 11:41 AM EDT
response: Hello! From what I can see in the photo, I suspect that your tree has Oak Leaf Blister, a fungal disease that can be bad in wet years (like this one!).  Fungicide treatments are available, but they need to be applied in early spring--by the time the symptoms are noticeable it's too late to treat for them; they would need to be applied right at bud-break. Thankfully, its severity is tied to weather conditions and is not normally a problem year after year; a single year infection is not generally considered a threat to the well being of the tree.  Repeated infections over multiple years could begin to weaken the tree and make it vulnerable to other problems, but for now, other than aesthetics, it is not a major concern. To help protect your tree next year, consider being very thorough during fall leaf clean-up because the fungus overwinters on infected leaves and is splashed back into the canopy the following spring.  Removing the leaves in the fall removes a lot of the potential source for new infections.  Oak leaf blister does not spread during the summer, the infections only happen in early spring and then develop over the warmer months. This resource from our Extension colleagues in Utah provides a good overview of the life cycle and some treatment options: https://extension.usu.edu/pests/ipm/notes_orn/list-treeshrubs/oak-leaf-blister I would only add that fertilizing the tree to increase vigor is not recommended here unless the tree is demonstrating an extreme lack of vigor.  The resulting lush growth can be particularly vulnerable to other problems of oaks--so stick to sanitation and fungicides applied at bud break (according to label instructions) if needed when wet springs are predicted. I hope this is helpful. Cordially, John

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 11, 2023, 1:43 PM EDT
response: Thank you John! I (and my tree) greatly appreciate your help!On Tue, Jul 11, 2023, 9:41 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 11, 2023, 1:44 PM EDT
response: You bet!  Good luck.
Tawny cockroach?

Question: I’m wondering what kind of bug this is. In thought maybe it was a wood cockroach, but someone suggested it was a tawny cockroach. I live about an hour from Traverse City and I read your article that says they were found there. They have been coming into my house, and I just saw one in my deck. They are always quite small. Thanks!

responder: Howard Russell, Entomologist  Replied July 11, 2023, 9:11 AM EDT
response: Hello Kendra,  That is a Spotted Mediterranean Cockroach aka Tawny cockroach, Ectobius pallidus (Blattellidae).   This European species of cockroach was once only known to occur in the US in Massachusetts, southeast Michigan, Lansing, the Grand Traverse Bay area and a few other isolated locations in Michigan. It appears to be spreading across the Lower Peninsula. It was first discovered in the United States in 1948 on Cape Cod. This species is normally considered an outdoors species that does not infest household foods or goods. It can become a nuisance when attracted to dwellings by lights. This pale-brown cockroach is smaller than the German cockroach and lacks the dark lines on the pronotum that characterize the latter. The wings have many tiny, dark spots that can be seen only with the aid of a hand lens. The nymphs are also pale brown but with rows of dark spots.   This insect can be discouraged from entering homes by spraying a persistent insecticide such as permethrin (sold under a variety of brand names, cyfluthrin (sold as Bayer Advanced Vegetable and Garden Spray) or bifenthrin (sold as Ortho Home Defense Max or Ortho Bug-B-Gon) around the outside of the home. Be sure to read and follow all instructions and safety precautions found on the label before using any pesticide.   Regards,  Howard *Tell us about your experience with our service by completing the brief (3 min.), anonymous MSU Plant & Pest Diagnostics Survey

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 12, 2023, 7:22 AM EDT
response: Thank you very much!Sent from my iPhone On Jul 11, 2023, at 9:11 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:﻿
Spots on pear tree leaves

Question: Can you identify these spots? What is the recommended treatment for this tree?

responder: Best Regards,   Replied July 11, 2023, 6:40 PM EDT
response: Dear Paul,  Thank you for contacting Ask Extension about the spots on your pear tree. It is difficult to tell from the photos, but it appears the tree may have either scale insects or pear leaf blister mites.   Please pull off a leaf for closer inspection. Are the small round spots raised bumps or are they all flat? When did they first occur? How much of the foliage is affected and where are the affected areas on the tree?   If you can provide this additional information I may be able to better identify the pests and give you the recommended treatment.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 15, 2023, 1:47 PM EDT
response: Hello Lynne,Thank you for responding.This first appeared about 6-8 weeks ago. Guessing here really. The spots appear flat more scaley than bumpy. I think about 90% of the foliage is affected, from the center out. Just growth at the ends appears free of this, so far.Best regards,Paul LindauerOn Jul 11, 2023, at 3:40 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:﻿

responder: Best Regards,   Replied July 15, 2023, 5:27 PM EDT
response: Dear Paul,  Thanks for the additional information. It appears your tree may have pear leaf blister mites. It is probably too late to do much for this season, but you can consider spraying this fall. If the damage is tolerable, you do not need to take any action.  Attached is a composite information sheet about the pest and possible treatments. Please note that the chemical treatments suggested are toxic to bees and should not be used during budding or bloom. Be sure to read and follow all precautions and instructions on the product label.  I hope this information is helpful. Please write again if you have any questions.
Herbicide damage

Question: I recently moved into a new house in NE Portland. I planted a veggie garden from starts in an existing raised bed in the backyard, using compost from an existing backyard composter. After planting, the new leaves on the tomato plant were stunted and twisted (image attached). I have basil, summer squash, and a cucumber in the same bed. The basil and squash seem totally normal, but the cucumber seems like it may have some very minor cupping (image attached). After doing a little searching, I came to suspect it might be herbicide damage. I spoke with the previous homeowners and they said they never used any herbicides on the property. I have since noticed that the new leaves on a front yard (so quite far and separated from the veggie garden) redbud tree also seem to be cupping (image attached). 

Does this seem to be herbicide damage, and if so, what are potential sources? The tomato is too damaged to ever produce, but the squash and cucumber are really productive already. Is anything from the bed safe to eat?

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 11, 2023, 4:40 PM EDT
response: Thank you for your question, Annika.  Before you spend time and (lots of) money trying to find an herbicide as the culprit, I'd suggest that you check the amount of water that all of these plants are getting.  The most common cause of upward cupping of leaves is a reaction to drought, and this is true both of redbud trees and cucurbits.  (A second cause is a virus called squash leaf curl, caused by in insect vector.) I suggest that you get an inexpensive soil water meter to see how dry/wet the soil is.  Redbuds should be watered thoroughly once a week.  Vegetables need a deep watering less often, rather than a light watering more often.  This causes the roots to grow deeper, where the soil remains damp longer.  Starting that now may still save the plants.  Good luck!

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 11, 2023, 5:05 PM EDT
response: Thank you so much for your reply! The cupping on the redbud and cucumber could definitely be from lack of water, but the tomato damage was the most noticeable and what originally made me suspect herbicide damage. The stunted growth and curled/twisted leaves were very extreme, and did not occur at a time that the plant would be lacking water. There was no yellowing in the plant, just the deformed growth (more photos attached). Is there another thing that could be causing this damage to the tomato? I am not concerned about saving the plants (the cucumber is growing well and producing a lot), I am concerned about the safety of eating the veggies from the garden. Thank you again for your help!On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 1:40 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 11, 2023, 6:22 PM EDT
response: Tomatoes react this same way to a lack of water:  https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/tomato-solanum-lycopersicum-physiological-leafroll I cannot speak to food safety, but, if you remain concerned, you can submit plant samples to the OSU Plant Clinic:  https://bpp.oregonstate.edu/plant-clinic/submit-sample/how-submit-plant-materials
Pruning weigelas

Question: We have sonic bloom weigelas. My understanding is that we should prune them after the first bloom to get a second bloom but no more than a third of anyone branch. My question is - some of the branches  are very close to the ground and parallel to the ground. Should we cut those back to the main trunk?

responder: Helen, UVM Extension Master Gardener Volunteer  Replied July 13, 2023, 5:11 PM EDT
response: Hi Ann,  Thanks for reaching out to us at the UVM Extension Master Gardener program! Your photos clearly show how the Weigelas are spreading horizontally along the ground. Articles from several university Extension Services (links provided below) discuss how to prune Weigelas so they fill out and grow upwards, instead of horizontally along the ground.  Weigelas have a natural growth habit of spreading as wide as they are tall. This results in unsightly, leggy, sprawling shrubs with canes that arch towards the ground. One of the links below describes this natural “spider” growth habit. You are definitely on the right track to prune them a few times per year to train them to fill out in a uniform, appealing shape with a dense display of blooms. Lightly pruning them after the spring bloom, as you describe, allows a repeated, though somewhat sparser bloom performance in mid to late summer.  The articles recommend heavier pruning be done in late winter/early spring. If the Weigelas suffer little winter dieback, remove a few of the largest, oldest stems on large, well-established plants. Removal of a few large branches in late winter/early spring allows the shrub to bloom in late spring and produce vigorous new flowering shoots for future years. So, you might consider waiting until next winter to cut older branches that are horizontal to the ground. Here are detailed instructions for pruning Weigela canes: Weigelas are prone to winter dieback. Carefully examine plants in late winter/early spring and prune out any dead wood. Older branches should be cut to the ground. These are usually the thickest stems toward the center of the plant. Prune one-third of the canes to the ground, prune another third halfway to the ground, and leave the remaining canes uncut. After this initial pruning, annually remove the tallest canes to the ground. This will result in more dense foliage and flowers from the ground to the top of the shrub. Here are a few links to Extension Service articles on care and pruning of Weigela shrubs: https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/faq/when-should-i-prune-my-weigela https://ask2.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=785479 https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/weigela-florida/

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 13, 2023, 5:30 PM EDT
response: Thank you! This is very  helpful. Sent from my iPad On Jul 13, 2023, at 5:11 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:﻿
Insect identification

Question: I live Sioux Falls and this winged insect, buzzed into my garden today. It’s shaped like a smaller version of a cicada and does not rattle. I’ve never seen anything like it. Any chance someone can identify it with this photo?

responder: Amanda Bachmann, PhDPesticide Education and Urban Entomology Field Specialist Replied July 10, 2023, 8:17 PM EDT
response: Do you have the insect or any other pictures? This one is at an angle that makes ID hard. We do have several cicada species in South Dakota, and some are smaller than the very common dog day cicada. If you have more pictures, please add them and I'll take a look.  Thanks!

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 10, 2023, 10:16 PM EDT
response: Unfortunately, I don’t have any other photos, and I didn’t capture it.  So, you think this is a young cicada?

responder: Amanda Bachmann, PhDPesticide Education and Urban Entomology Field Specialist Replied July 10, 2023, 10:25 PM EDT
response: Cicada nymphs do not have wings and they live underground. We see their shed nymphal exoskeletons hanging on trees (https://askabiologist.asu.edu/cicada-life-cycle for a picture). I really can't make an ID from that photo, but if it had wings it was definitely not an immature cicada. You might try flipping through the leaf hoppers on Bug Guide - https://bugguide.net/node/view/1801980/tree
What is the name of this weed?

Question: This weed has invades my lawn, creating a mat. Is it some kind of vetch?

responder: MJ Replied July 10, 2023, 4:09 PM EDT
response: Hi Andy, This is prostrate knotweed. It's a tough weed to control now. It likes compacted soils and has a taproot. You can pull it if there's not a lot of it. It's easiest to do it when the ground is wet. Here's more information: https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/weed/broadleaf/creeping/pknotweed.html Aerating your lawn this fall and fertilizing would boost your grass for next year and make knotweed less happy, because it thrives in hard soils. Here's more information from Purdue University. Note that the sprouting times mentioned on this website will be later in Minnesota: https://turf.purdue.edu/prostrate-knotweed/ Hope this helps.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 11, 2023, 7:34 AM EDT
response: thank you very much-----------------------------------------From: "Ask Extension" To: "Andy Kornkven"Cc: Sent: Monday July 10 2023 3:09:50PMSubject: Re: What is the name of this weed? (#0109874)
Question about a Maple Tree in Distress?

Question: Wondering if you can identify the problem with my maple tree?  I've noticed others in the neighborhood as well.  Seems the leaves are already turning red, and the bark on the trunk is splitting.  Is this a sign of stress?  Or is there something else going on?  Appreciate any information you can give me.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 14, 2023, 3:31 PM EDT
response: Wondering if there is any update to my question? I’m seeing more and more maple trees in the area with the color change and trunk splitting so wondering if this is a stress issue. If so, any suggestions what can be done to reverse this damage?  Thank you

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 14, 2023, 9:59 PM EDT
response: Hi Karen, I believe there are two issues with the trees. The splitting happens in the winter. It's a frost crack. https://web.extension.illinois.edu/askextension/thisquestion.cfm?threadid=7769&catid=179&asksiteid=84 The leaves turning red are probably a sign of stress from so much hot weather and not enough rain. You can make sure your tree gets a good 5 gallon soak once a week and that you have a layer of wood mulch 3 or more feet extended from the tree. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the tree and no more than 3 inches deep. https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/early_fall_color_in_trees_and_shrubs_may_be_a_sign_of_stress I hope this is helpful. Sally Granath St. Louis County MG
Are these Peaches Edible?

Question: We just picked these peaches and are wondering if we can use them? This looks like Peach Scab to me.  Most of the have some of these spots. There is also bug damage. There are some with holes. They look like bugs have eaten into them.

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied July 10, 2023, 4:17 PM EDT
response: Hi- it does look like peach scab. The fruits are edible. The injury is just skin deep. Jon

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 10, 2023, 4:46 PM EDT
response: Hi Jon,Thanks SO much. LisaHave a great day! On Jul 10, 2023, at 4:17 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:﻿
broad rapid leaf destruction

Question: I have searched the Internet but am having trouble identifying the answer, I left town for three nights and came back to my beautiful vegetable garden having experienced widespread leaf damage- specifically jagged crooked cuttings from the edges of the leaf into the interior part with some leaf material missing, looks like somebody took a scissors to the leaves - also hit my wild raspberry leaves and some of my annuals - can't see anything by day- such widespread damage to nearly every planting- kale, chard, spinach, sunflower leaves, beet greens! ugh!!

responder: Linda G Tenneson, Benton County Extension Master Gardener & Tree Care Advisor Replied July 10, 2023, 4:37 PM EDT
response: Hail? Sawfly larva, and/or grasshoppers, are my guesses. I have asked that your question be reassigned to an insect expert.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 11, 2023, 10:22 AM EDT
response: Hi Kristin,  Was there any severe weather when you were out of town? This looks like hail damage to me. Few pests are this destructive and feed on such a broad range of crops, so I would see what the weather was doing while you were away.  Marissa Horticulture Integrated Pest Management Educator

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 11, 2023, 10:15 PM EDT
response: thank you so much, I'm going to follow up with a neighbor to see if we had hail but I have had others suggest that it was likely hail damage as well so I'm pretty satisfied with that answer!! it's definitely more appetizing to consider eating the greens knowing it was hail damage :) Thank you again!! On Jul 11, 2023, at 9:22 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:﻿
Eggs on my tomatoes

Question: I discovered these eggs on my tomorrow plants yesterday.  I can't seem to identify them.  Does anyone there have any thoughts about what will hatch from these eggs?

Thanks for your time.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 11, 2023, 7:58 PM EDT
response: These eggs are most likely form what we call True Bugs an insect. It is very possible they may be damaging your tomato plant so removing them by hand would be a good thing to do. Let me know if you have any additional questions. Thank you for contacting us. Rich

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 12, 2023, 5:34 AM EDT
response: Thanks for the response!  Monica Ropp On Tue, Jul 11, 2023, 4:58 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Harmful chemical

Question: A chemical called Prosecutor containing Glyphosate was mistakenly applied on our grass in a wrong form, which chilled the lawn. A tree in the middle of the lawn died right after that incident, too. The company admits grass liability, but doubts it could kill the tree, too. I attach the picture of the tree before (it’s completely dead and brown now). Don’t know the name of the tree. Asking for your opinion.

Thanks!

responder: Deb Reierson  Replied July 11, 2023, 11:33 AM EDT
response: The short answer is yes, Glyphosate can kill young trees. It can even harm older more established trees and affect them for years. Since the company admits to application in the wrong form, and the resulting damage is obvious they should compensate you for the tree too.  Herbicides, applied incorrectly, can damage and kill trees - especially young trees. https://extension.psu.edu/use-glyphosate-with-care-near-trees https://nfs.unl.edu/publications/herbicide-damage-trees

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 11, 2023, 1:43 PM EDT
response: Dear Ms. Reierson,Thank you very much. A lot of damage has been done to our property. I should ask if this application could’ve harmed our health and that of our dog?Thanks again,Alex BraginskySent from my iPad On Jul 11, 2023, at 10:33 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:﻿

responder: Deb Reierson  Replied July 11, 2023, 4:23 PM EDT
response: I would talk with a health care professional about that type of concern. Most of the danger is in the application and while it is wet on the ground.  Here is a fact sheet that should help: http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/glyphogen.html

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 11, 2023, 5:10 PM EDT
response: Thank you, I’ll follow up on that. AlexSent from my iPhone On Jul 11, 2023, at 3:23 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:﻿