Acorn lawn assassination

Question: Thanks for reviewing my question. This mast year has smothered my lawn that suffers due to tree roots, blocked sun,  trees that absorb nutrients, fallen branches, and squirrels digging up my lawn. I read online that putting acorns at the base of the tree will reduce future acorn production. Is that true? If so, how many pounds of acorns, how often, and how long do I need to surround the base of my oak tree with acorns? Will it work if put the acorns on top of myrtle? Besides mowing the lawn (not the lowest setting or it will damage grass roots), and possibly a wet/dry vacuum (not commercial), do you have any suggestions for acirn removal and prevention? My oak tree is beautiful, but it's becoming very difficult to take of my lawn, because I am disabled and I can't afford lawn service. Thank you.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied October 11, 2024, 10:05 AM EDT
response: Placing acorns around the base of the tree won't reduce acorn production. Mature oak trees and lush turf-grass are fairly incompatible. This type of reduced turf growth under mature oaks is typical. To reduce the bare soil under the tree you could consider spreading mulch under the tree (making sure not to pile it up on the root flare - the area where the trunk meets the roots). A cost-effective measure to consider might be to reach out to a local arboriculture company and see if they would be willing to provide you wood chips. Sometimes those companies are looking for places to get rid of wood chips. If you want turf-grass, consider over seeding with seed mix designed for shady locations. As far as removing acorns...Yes, in addition to raking, some people will use the wet/dry shop vac at times. There are also these hand-held roller devices called 'nut gatherers'. I'm not sure if that work that much better than a rake but they may make the nuts easier to remove for come people. There are a number of different brands you'll find if you just search from 'nut gatherer' online.

responder: The Question Asker Replied October 11, 2024, 11:44 AM EDT
response: Thank you very much for your informative reply.  The feedback about seeding the lawn was helpful, but lacks information. What kind of seed? How much seed?  Where to apply it? Bare spots, thin spots, or everywhere for overall improvement? How much water will it need? How often? For how long? Also, as mentioned, I have myrtle at the base of my oak tree. Spreading mulch at the base of the tree will require digging out the myrtle. I  stated that I am disabled. I am unable to either dig up the myrtle in order to spread mulch at the base of the tree, or to use a hand held nut roller, as suggested.  In future replies, as a representative of the Michigan State agricultural program, may I suggest that you read the questions more carefully and respond to both what is asked and to what is stated? Thank you.  On Fri, Oct 11, 2024, 10:05 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied October 11, 2024, 1:37 PM EDT
response: I apologize if the previous response gave the impression that the entirety of your email was not fully read and thoughtfully considered. It was intended to provide options without making assumptions based on limited information. The nut gatherer was an additional option in response to the request for any other possible alternatives for removing acorns than those listed.  The thought behind mulch/wood-chips is that it could be a lower maintenance option over time. As far as the myrtle, placing mulch and wood-ships under the oak canopy would not necessarily require its removal, as one option would be to place the mulch/wood chips up to and around the area where the myrtle is growing.  Below are some helpful links for growing and/or reestablishing turf grass but here is a quick overview that I hope is helpful: Look for a turf grass seed mix listed for use in shady sites (this will include fine fescues). The amount per square foot to apply should be listed on the specific bag of seed. At this point in the season, I would wait until spring. The seed could be spread in just the bare spots, but over-seeding over the existing grass would help provide more uniform appearance. The amount of water will depend on how much it rains, of course, but seedlings and young grass will likely need supplemental watering while getting established and perhaps during drier periods throughout the first growing year. But you will want to water lightly, since you don't want standing water nor water running off carrying soil and seed with it. Ideally, the lawn and bare soil could be roughed up with a rake ahead of putting the seed down for better germination, but it isn't an absolute requirement. Here is link to the home lawn page of MSU's Gardening in Michigan website: Home Lawns - Gardening in Michigan (msu.edu) Which includes links to articles like these: Tips for reseeding lawns in spring - MSU Extension Low Maintenance Lawns in the Midwest - Gardening in Michigan (msu.edu) University for Minnesota also has some helpful info found here: Seeding and sodding home lawns | UMN Extension Hope this is helpful and let us know if you would like any additional info.