MIRAGE-Benchmark/MIRAGE huggingface dataset:
Apple tree

Question: The leaves on my honey crisp apple tree have developed brown spots as well as the fruit. What is this and how do I treat?

responder: Kim C.   Replied July 11, 2024, 8:56 PM EDT
response: Hello, Thank you for your gardening question. I have some additional questions. Are the leaves all over the tree doing this or just in one spot. Did you notice if the leaves started changing with smaller gray spots? Is there cupping on the underside of the leaf? Are the leaves dropping off? Regarding the spots on the fruit- are they soft and sunken? When did you first notice the symptoms? Hopefully I will be able to help more with additional information

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 12, 2024, 1:46 PM EDT
response: Hi, see pics below. I would say this started about a month ago. Just one branch, and now 80 percent of the tree. Thank you for your help  On Thu, Jul 11, 2024, 8:56 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Kim C.   Replied July 13, 2024, 5:57 AM EDT
response: Thank you so much for those pictures.  I suspect that this is apple scab. It is a fungal disease that affects many apple trees. I am attaching several fact sheets regarding integrated management of apple scab. After reading you can decide if you want to manage organically or synthetically, also sanitation practices that are necessary, are also listed.  There are also pictures of the disease cycle that you will find helpful that show the full growing season and what to look for.  Here are some fact sheets on apple scab: https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/plpath-fru-23  https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/bp/bp-1-w.pdf https://extension.psu.edu/apple-disease-apple-scab https://extension.unh.edu/resource/apple-scab-fact-sheet  You may want to purchase a copy of these two bulletins. I have the first one listed and find it very helpful.  https://extensionpubs.osu.edu/midwest-home-fruit-production-guide/  https://extensionpubs.osu.edu/controlling-diseases-and-insects-in-home-fruit-plantings/
American cranberry

Question: I have an American cranberry bush and it looks like something is chewing it as the leaves are peppered with holes.  Can you help me figure out what is wrong and how to fix it?  Thank you.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 08, 2024, 12:02 AM EDT
response: On Sun, Jul 7, 2024, 5:21 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:    Dear vonw54, Thank you for using Ask Extension. A request for support has been created and a representative will follow-up with you as soon as possible. Questions are usually answered within two business days. You can view this question's progress online. YOUR QUESTION #0146139: American cranberry I have an American cranberry bush and it looks like something is chewing it as the leaves are peppered with holes. Can you help me figure out what is wrong and how to fix it? Thank you. Ask Extension offers one-to-one expert answers from Cooperative Extension/University staff and volunteers within participating Land-Grant institutions across the United States. If you wish to provide additional comments or information regarding the issue, please login to your account for a complete archive of your prior questions and answers.  This message for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for personalized professional advice. For specific local information, contact your local county Cooperative Extension office or other qualified professionals. eXtension Foundation does not recommend or endorse any specific tests, professional services, products, procedures, opinions, or other information that may be mentioned. Reliance on any information provided by eXtension Foundation, employees, suppliers, member universities, or other third parties through eXtension is solely at the user's own risk. All eXtension content and communication is subject to the Terms of Use which may be revised at any time.

responder: eGardener  Replied July 21, 2024, 1:37 PM EDT
response: Hello,  Sorry for the delay in answering your question.  This seems to be the work of a new bug here in Minnesota called Viburnum leaf beetle. They produce one generation per year and since they're around as larvae (hatching in spring) followed by adults who lay eggs as late as October, they can do considerable harm to your shrub for most of the growing season. Look for twigs that have the telltale splotches looking like applications of wood putty in the fall. That's where the eggs are overwintering.  Here is more information about VLB from U of Wisconsin - Madison. The U of MN Extension recommends notifying Arrest the Pest since VLB is new here in the state. Finally, keep an eye out for new information from the Minnesota DNR about Viburnum leaf beetle (VLB).  Good-luck!
My yard tree does not look healthy

Question: I live in a residential neighborhood where all of the houses are about 5 years old.  We have a maple tree in our front yard but it is not as tall as our neighbor's trees of the same age and the top leaves look like they are starting to die.  The tree is watered everyday by the lawn sprinklers of which there are 4 that cover that spot for 20 minutes.  There may also be a sprinkler head specific to that tree but I don't know for sure.  Can you help me understand what is happening to this tree.  I can't tell if it's getting too much water, not enough water or just not the right kinds of fertilizers to help it grow.

responder: Alison O'Connor, PhD  Replied July 08, 2024, 1:06 PM EDT
response: Hi Jon,  It looks like some of the tips of the leaves are yellow (chlorotic). When this happens, the tree essentially loses its "sunscreen" (chlorophyll) and the leaves can burn.   Fortunately, the tree, as a whole, looks very good and these few leaves will not affect the overall health.  However, a few other things to address:  1. Watering every day is not necessary - adjust your watering to only water 2-3 days per week (and perhaps longer). Not knowing the type of sprinklers you have, 20 minutes may be too much, too little, or just right. I would encourage you to do an irrigation audit and put out several cups in an irrigation zone and collect the water. Then measure it and get an average. Right now, lawns need about 1.0" to 1.5" of water per week (including any rain we get).   If watering for 20 minutes gives you 1/4" in total water collected in the cups, then you know that you're applying 1.75" of water each week (0.25 x 7 days). This is generally too much. But it all depends on how much water you're collecting.  Overwatering can encourage iron chlorosis - so this may be related to your tree's problems.  Also, try to find out if there are drip irrigation heads to the tree that are also running.   2. Your tree may have height differences because it's a different species or it may be planted at a different depth. Comparing tree growth to others isn't really fair, because it would be the same as comparing the height of people to other people. Just because they are the same species doesn't mean they would grow at the same rate. Growth rate is affected by many things. Plus, more moderate growth is good because the tree would be less prone to storm damage or breaking.  Let me know what you find out with your irrigation audit!

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 09, 2024, 4:00 PM EDT
response: Thanks for the advice Alison, I’ll measure the amount of water and see how much the tree is getting. Jon Simms<personal data hidden> BreakAwayAdventures.net  On Jul 8, 2024, at 11:06 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:   ﻿
Burning Bush

Question: The burning bush has been in the ground for a month, it has plenty of sunlight and water. I used a root stimulator at planting and watered in really well. The browning started after I watered the bush at the drip line and sprayed water on the leaves two weeks ago.

responder: Alison O'Connor, PhD  Replied July 08, 2024, 1:09 PM EDT
response: Hi Larry,  This is stress from being planted, being exposed to Colorado sun, and general transplant shock.  Newly planted trees and shrubs need to be watered on a very regular basis for the first several weeks following planting. When it's been as hot as it has, watering is even more important.  Check the root ball and ensure that it's moist. Then follow the guidelines on watering from the U of MN: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/watering-newly-planted-trees-and-shrubs  Newly planted trees or shrubs require more frequent watering than established trees and shrubs. They should be watered at planting time and at these intervals: 1-2 weeks after planting, water daily. 3-12 weeks after planting, water every 2 to 3 days. After 12 weeks, water weekly until roots are established.  Hopefully the shrub will be able to establish and set buds for next year - the leaves will shed early and you likely won't have any fall color.   Also, move the mulch off the top of the root ball so that when you water, you're watering the root ball and not just the mulch or surrounding area. Adding additional root stimulator or fertilizer is unnecessary.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 08, 2024, 2:10 PM EDT
response: Thanks  On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 11:09 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Little green bug

Question: Wondering what this little guy is. Don’t recall seeing it in any of your emails.

responder: Thank you for your question!   Laura S.      Michigan State University Extension Advanced Master Gardener Volunteer You may also contact the toll free MSU Extension lawn and garden hotline at 1-888-678-3464 with your gardening questions or visit www.migarden.msu.edu for Smart Gardening resources. Replied July 07, 2024, 11:06 AM EDT
response: Hello, This is one of the green stink bugs. I will send this along to our entomologist to see if the species can be identified from your photo.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 07, 2024, 1:03 PM EDT
response: Thank you!!

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 08, 2024, 7:57 PM EDT
response: That is a stink bug (family Pentatomidae), but I can’t see enough detail in your photo to identify the species. The most common species in Michigan is the common green stink bug (Chinavia hilaris). You can read more about it in this article from MSU Extension: https://www.canr.msu.edu/ipm/diseases/green_stink_bug?language_id=
What is it?

Question: So, several years ago, I bought this plant. The ID tag was long gone, but I figured I was safe, it was from a nursery. I have it in a planter pot. I have been told twice now to check, that it might be invasive. I haven't been able to find out what it is.  Any ideas? I really don't want to get rid of it, if I don't have to...  Thank you, Dee

responder: Deb K  Replied July 08, 2024, 6:23 PM EDT
response: Hi Dee,    Thanks for contacting ask extension with your concern about your plant. Your plant is a species of Hypericum (St John's wart).  There are over 500 species of Hypericum with many being referred to as St John's wart. Hypericum perforatum is listed as a type b noxious weed in many states including Oregon. But I don't believe your plant is a Hypericum perforatum.     Here is a link to a description and pictures of the H. perforatum (the noxious weed). https://burkeherbarium.org/imagecollection/taxon.php?Taxon=Hypericum%20perforatum Notice the color of the stem is green while yours is brownish red. Also notice the black spots along the petal edges of the flower and long stamen.   Check the petals of your plant once it fully opens and compare.  If they don't have the black spots, then you can be confident that you do not have a noxious weed.    If you like you can send another picture once the flower opens.  Happy Gardening!

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 09, 2024, 12:27 PM EDT
response: I am so happy, it is totally different from the photo, and no black spots!   Once this beastly weather is over, probably fall, I will put it in my garden.Thank you so much! Dee   On Mon, Jul 8, 2024, 3:23 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Deb K  Replied July 12, 2024, 1:36 PM EDT
response: Your very welcome!
What might cause this problem on my Baptisia, False Indigo?

Question: This False Indigo’s leaves began turning this gray green color a couple of weeks ago.  By yesterday the leaves were falling, and the plant looks like it’s either dying or going dormant. It is planted between the walkway and the front porch, gets full sun in the morning, shade by 3 pm.  This same thing happened last year, but later in the summer.  Now the plant on the other side of the entrance to the porch is starting to have the same problem.  Other Baptisias across the front of the house seem fine.  Any suggestions about what be happening and what we can do about it?

responder: Answered by theHome and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied July 08, 2024, 1:05 PM EDT
response: Most of our landscape plants are being heavily stressed by very hot, dry conditions right now. Your Baptisia my have even more heat stress (and less root area) in that location.  Have they had any supplemental water this season? We would guess that there may be a high mite outbreak  (tiny sucking insects) on the plants, which can build up quickly under these conditions. Powdery mildew can also discolor leaves and would be active now as well. Here is our page on Mites to tell you more:  https://extension.umd.edu/resource/spider-mites-flowers-and-groundcovers/ The plant will likely drop those leaves if there is no green tissue left. You could try pruning them back but we are not sure if they will push out new leaves this season.  Christine

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 08, 2024, 1:16 PM EDT
response: Thank you, Christine.  After I sent my question, I found the mites as you described, complete with webbing, on a plant that wasn’t as badly damaged.  We cut down all of the plants and will keep a closer eye on them next year. I especially appreciate your reference to the predator mites!  Thank you so much! Sandee

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied July 08, 2024, 4:00 PM EDT
response: You're welcome!
Help me identify

Question: This beatle seems to enjoy eating flower petals and leaves.  Plus I found some on our Maple tree as well.  Neem oil does not seem to deter them. It is not the Japanese beatle

responder: Linda G Tenneson, Benton County Extension Master Gardener & Tree Care Advisor Replied July 06, 2024, 2:11 PM EDT
response: Rose Chafer https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/rose-chafers

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 06, 2024, 5:55 PM EDT
response: Thank you very much! On Sat, Jul 6, 2024 at 1:11 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
tree of heaven, not sumac or walnut?

Question: With the arrival of spotted lanternflies, I searched our property for anything that might be a tree of heaven. Found this tree with non-serrated opposing leaflets, hanging translucent seed pods, and vertically striped bark. After consulting Google I'm 99% sure this is a tree of heaven, but wanted to be 100% sure that it's not sumac, walnut, or something else before removing the tree. Happy to send more pictures if needed. Many thanks for your help.

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland  Extension. For more information on a variety of yard and garden topics, visit the HGIC website and our blog, Maryland Grows.  Replied July 07, 2024, 11:21 PM EDT
response: Hi, Jeff, The seed pods look like those of Tree-of-Heaven (Ailanthus altissima). Click on this link to view a video from Penn State Extension to learn the identification characteristics of the invasive tree-of-heaven and to be able to distinguish it from the native look-alikes, black walnut and staghorn sumac. Thank you for your question and for your vigilance. Barbara

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 08, 2024, 11:28 AM EDT
response: Thanks Barbara! Appreciate the confirmation and the Penn State Extension link.Jeff  Ask Extension  July 7, 2024 at 11:21 PM

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland  Extension. For more information on a variety of yard and garden topics, visit the HGIC website and our blog, Maryland Grows.  Replied July 08, 2024, 11:37 AM EDT
response: You are welcome.
Mugo Pine losing needles

Question: I have two mature mugo pines in my front yard. The largest pine is about 8 feet tall and wide and is about 25 years old.  Recently the needles on the middle section of the new candles swelled and turned brown looking like small worms hanging on to the branch. I can't find any insects except for a small area with white spots on the needles which I treated with neem oil for scale a few weeks ago. The condition is primarily on the north side of the shrub and at the lower areas. I have had problems with fungi before on the pines, could that be the problem?

Glen

responder: Yen.H OSU Extension Master Gardener Volunteer  Replied July 06, 2024, 7:50 PM EDT
response: Hi Glen, Wow and 8 feet tall Mugo must be a sight to see - and you have two of them! I believe the brown wormlike structures on your Mugo are the male flowers. Although it doesn't look exactly like the image shown in South Carolina extension website it does says that there are male and female cones parts.  "This shrub produces inconspicuous male and female pollen cones from May to July. The male pollen cone is greenish-yellow and 0.25 inches long. The female cone ripens in the fall and becomes oval to conical, sessile, 1 to 2.5 inches long, and dark brown." Pinus mugo (Mugho Pine, Mugo Pine, Swiss Mountain Pine) | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox (ncsu.edu) While not research base, if you look up "mugo pinus male flowers" you will find images similar to your picture. I hope this alleviate any concerns.  The white spots could have been Pine Needle Scale. Treatment with a horticultural oil (like Neem) is appropriate although scales have a waxy covering that prevents complete eradication and there may be eggs in waiting ready to hatch. You should be vigilant in your monitoring is case more treatment is needed. Pine needle scale (missouribotanicalgarden.org)  I hope your Mugos continue to give years of enjoyment.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 06, 2024, 9:39 PM EDT
response: Thanks so much for your information!   Glen   Get Outlook for Android   From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> on behalf of Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> Sent: Saturday, July 6, 2024 7:50:58 PM To: Glen Ramage <<personal data hidden>> Subject: Re: Mugo Pine losing needles (#0146003)
Replace Snowball bush viburnum with fig tree?

Question: Hello!  I have this medium-size Snowball bush viburnum (approx. 5-6' tall and wide) that I would like to remove and, in its place, plant a fig tree this fall.  Should I have any concerns about replacing one with the other, like will there be anything left in the soil that might hurt the fig tree?  Thank you!

responder: Taffy Replied July 08, 2024, 8:04 AM EDT
response: Catherine, there is no reason you can't plant a fig where the viburnum was.  Just be sure the site has full sun and good drainage which is required for figs to thrive and produce fruit.  Thanks for contacting Ask Extension.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 11, 2024, 7:52 AM EDT
response: Thank you Taffy!  We're excited.  We'll look to planting in the fall to avoid heat stress.   Take care, Cathy
Linden abruptly dying

Question: Small leaf Linden abruptly dying no leaves over much of the tree and small section has buds. This happened 2 years ago to several Cornus Kousa trees. Diagnosis & treatment needed to prevent spread to other Lindens.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 11, 2024, 8:56 AM EDT
response: Best to consult with a tree expert (Arborist) sourced in the link from the Arborist Society: https://www.treesaregood.org/findanarborist

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 12, 2024, 8:22 AM EDT
response: Hi Ron, Reviewing your photos further, there is a notable issue for this tree which is likely to be one of the primary conditions leading to its decline.  The tree's trunk has been buried too deeply in the soil. That can happen at the time it is planted but also through generous applications of compost or mulch over the years. Many trees, lindens included, are likely to grow girdling roots in these situations and you can see that happening in your photo. Roots grow up into the extra soil above the root system where they circle the trunk and gradually choke the plant.  You will need to have a certified arborist examine the tree on site for other issues and dig into the excess soil to look at the extent of the girdling roots. In some situations, these strangling roots can be removed and the tree restored to good health if it is still generally vigorous, but not always. It is possible that your Cornus kousa suffered the same conditions. Soil built up against the trunk at the level of the root flare and above can lead to other problems as well. The soil holds dampness against the bark which is not designed to withstand the extended exposure. It can lead to bark weakness and support disease or insects entering the plant. With best regards, Leslie

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 12, 2024, 9:27 PM EDT
response: Dear Leslie, Thank You.Best   On Fri, Jul 12, 2024 at 8:22 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Hydrangea not blooming

Question: One of my hydrangeas is not blooming normally this year.  Flowers are partially formed but not opened.  Adjacent plant seems normal.  Suggestions?

responder: Alison O'Connor, PhD  Replied July 06, 2024, 5:44 PM EDT
response: Hi John,  A couple thoughts...  1. Have any herbicides been used near the plant? Something that perhaps has 2,4-D? Because this could be a growth-inhibiting herbicide that has distorted the growth - and some of the leaves show cupping too.  2. It could be a virus. A couple possibilities are aster yellows or a carlavirus. If herbicides haven't been used - and the adjacent plants are normal - then a virus could be the culprit. Aster yellows are spread by leafhoppers and carlaviruses can be spread by aphids. The only way to confirm a virus would be to send samples to the CSU Plant Diagnostic Lab at Spur in Denver. Unfortunately, the problem with viruses is that it usually results in removing the plant.   If you do submit samples, you might call the lab first to ask how much testing will cost and how to best send your samples.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 06, 2024, 10:04 PM EDT
response: Hi Alison, Thanks for the quick response.  We did use some roundup for a very small spot treatment near the plant early this spring.  If that is the problem will the plant recover on its own?  Should I be doing anything?  I will also contact the diagnostic lab to check into some testing.  Assuming it isn’t too expensive I will probably go ahead and get a sample tested for a virus.  If it is a virus how worried should I be about the other hydrangeas nearby?  Is the virus spread easily? Thanks, John On Jul 6, 2024, at 3:44 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:    ﻿

responder: Alison O'Connor, PhD  Replied July 07, 2024, 9:33 AM EDT
response: Hi John,  This isn't glyphosate injury, so I'm leaning towards a potential virus.  Aster yellows are spread by leafhoppers, so yes, the other plants can be affected. Generally the course of action is to remove the one showing symptoms.  I found a very similar thread and photos from the Ask Extension system. It was in Minnesota: https://ask2.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=488020