fungal issues

Question: we have several  plants that are showing  signs of leaf spot.  some of the plants are in partial shade but others are in almost full sun - 8 hours a day.   I was also wondering if the purple ornamental grass is showing signs of nutrient deficientcy .  Any assistance with my plants would be greatly appreciated

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 05, 2023, 12:24 PM EDT
response: Hello,  Concerning your Japanese Spirea: Phyllosticta and Cylindrocladium leaf spots have been reported on S. x bumalda cultivars but are uncommon. Any shrub watered by overhead irrigation is more apt to contract a foliar fungal disease, so drip irrigation is always the best choice. Sprays with chlorothalonil (such as Daconil) will help control fungal leaf spot diseases. Rake or blow out fallen diseased leaves during the late winter and dispose of them to aid in disease control. From the article: Spirea - Clemson University at this link: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/spirea/  Concerning your butterfly bush:  This is probably a fungal leaf spot or bacterial leaf spot.  To minimize leaf spot diseases, always water from below the leaf canopy. Redirect lawn sprinklers to keep the shrub leaves dry, or water lawns only early in the day so leaves dry quickly and are not wet overnight. Keep fallen leaves raked up. You may clip off the most damaged leaves and discard them. Only work on the plant when it is dry. In fall, thoroughly rake up fallen leaves so fungi are reduced in the area. Fungicides will reduce the occurrence of these problems, especially when used during wet periods in early spring. Copper-based products control bacterial diseases. Here are references listing garden fungicides- https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/ppfs-gen-07.pdf https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/bp/bp-69-w.pdf  Concerning your ornamental grass: MSU Plant and Pest Diagnostics should be able to tell any nutrient deficiencies (based on your image) - You might need to get a soil test - Details are at these links:  https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/dont_guess_soil_test_get_your_home_lawn_and_garden_soil_test_kit_today  https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/soil_test_kit_self-mailer  https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/soil-testing-returns-through-msu-extension  Please read the section - Identifying Plant Nutrient Deficiencies in the article: IDENTIFYING NUTRIENT DEFICIENCIES IN ORNAMENTAL PLANTS - University of Delaware at this link:  https://www.udel.edu/academics/colleges/canr/cooperative-extension/fact-sheets/identifying-nutrient-deficiencies-in-ornamental-plants/  You can submit sample leaves and pictures to the MSU Plant Diagnostic lab for an exact diagnosis of which one of several diseases this may be. See https://pestid.msu.edu for instructions and the fee schedule.  Please get a confirmed diagnosis from the MSU Diagnostic Plant & Pest Lab - Please email your digital images prior to bringing or sending physical samples. Images can be sent to <personal data hidden>.    MAKE SURE IN THAT E-MAIL YOU INCLUDE YOUR NAME, ADDRESS, AND PHONE NUMBER!!   Be prepared. The lab may ask for more images - THE LAB WILL LET YOU KNOW IF A SAMPLE NEEDS TO BE SENT - There is a $20-25 dollar fee (if they need a sample sent).   Lab email: <personal data hidden>  Lab phone:<personal data hidden>  Hours of operation: Monday through Friday, from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.   PLEASE READ BELOW ON PREPARING YOUR SAMPLE (if the lab needs a sample)   From the lab: Please do not ship samples on Fridays. Due to the current COVID-19 circumstances, please allow additional processing time. They thank you for your patience and understanding.   Every sample must be accompanied by a completed submission form. Please place the form in a separate resealable bag to prevent it from getting damp or soiled. The form is at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/uploads/files/General_Sample_Submission_Form_May2022.pdf.   Complete details of submitting a sample are at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/submit-samples/

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 05, 2023, 12:24 PM EDT
response: Hello,  Concerning your Japanese Spirea: Phyllosticta and Cylindrocladium leaf spots have been reported on S. x bumalda cultivars but are uncommon. Any shrub watered by overhead irrigation is more apt to contract a foliar fungal disease, so drip irrigation is always the best choice. Sprays with chlorothalonil (such as Daconil) will help control fungal leaf spot diseases. Rake or blow out fallen diseased leaves during the late winter and dispose of them to aid in disease control. From the article: Spirea - Clemson University at this link: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/spirea/  Concerning your butterfly bush:  This is probably a fungal leaf spot or bacterial leaf spot.  To minimize leaf spot diseases, always water from below the leaf canopy. Redirect lawn sprinklers to keep the shrub leaves dry, or water lawns only early in the day so leaves dry quickly and are not wet overnight. Keep fallen leaves raked up. You may clip off the most damaged leaves and discard them. Only work on the plant when it is dry. In fall, thoroughly rake up fallen leaves so fungi are reduced in the area. Fungicides will reduce the occurrence of these problems, especially when used during wet periods in early spring. Copper-based products control bacterial diseases. Here are references listing garden fungicides- https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/ppfs-gen-07.pdf https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/bp/bp-69-w.pdf  Concerning your ornamental grass: MSU Plant and Pest Diagnostics should be able to tell any nutrient deficiencies (based on your image) - You might need to get a soil test - Details are at these links:  https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/dont_guess_soil_test_get_your_home_lawn_and_garden_soil_test_kit_today  https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/soil_test_kit_self-mailer  https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/soil-testing-returns-through-msu-extension  Please read the section - Identifying Plant Nutrient Deficiencies in the article: IDENTIFYING NUTRIENT DEFICIENCIES IN ORNAMENTAL PLANTS - University of Delaware at this link:  https://www.udel.edu/academics/colleges/canr/cooperative-extension/fact-sheets/identifying-nutrient-deficiencies-in-ornamental-plants/  You can submit sample leaves and pictures to the MSU Plant Diagnostic lab for an exact diagnosis of which one of several diseases this may be. See https://pestid.msu.edu for instructions and the fee schedule.  Please get a confirmed diagnosis from the MSU Diagnostic Plant & Pest Lab - Please email your digital images prior to bringing or sending physical samples. Images can be sent to <personal data hidden>.    MAKE SURE IN THAT E-MAIL YOU INCLUDE YOUR NAME, ADDRESS, AND PHONE NUMBER!!   Be prepared. The lab may ask for more images - THE LAB WILL LET YOU KNOW IF A SAMPLE NEEDS TO BE SENT - There is a $20-25 dollar fee (if they need a sample sent).   Lab email: <personal data hidden>  Lab phone:<personal data hidden>  Hours of operation: Monday through Friday, from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.   PLEASE READ BELOW ON PREPARING YOUR SAMPLE (if the lab needs a sample)   From the lab: Please do not ship samples on Fridays. Due to the current COVID-19 circumstances, please allow additional processing time. They thank you for your patience and understanding.   Every sample must be accompanied by a completed submission form. Please place the form in a separate resealable bag to prevent it from getting damp or soiled. The form is at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/uploads/files/General_Sample_Submission_Form_May2022.pdf.   Complete details of submitting a sample are at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/submit-samples/

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 06, 2023, 9:37 AM EDT
response: Thank you for responding quickly.  The information was excellent.  I will no longer water any plants from above.  Japanese Spirea are looking better as the ladybugs are increasing.  Still have spots on them, but I'm hoping that by not watering from above that it will start to clear up.   I live in a park that has numerous pine and oak trees.        The pine trees are forever dropping pine needles as well as pine cones.  My yard needs to be raked every time before I mow the grass.  Instead of disposing of the pine needles and cones, I rake them up around the perimeter of my flower gardens as a natural mulch.  Usually in the spring I dispose of them and the process starts all over again.        When the oak trees start losing their leaves in the fall, I rake them into a path and run over them with my mulching lawn mower and cover my plants for the winter.  Then in spring when I clean out my flower beds, the leaves get turned into the soil.        Also, my neighbor uses a bagger on his lawn mower.  I take his grass clippings and spread them lightly throughout my flower garden as well as throughout the part of my yard where the grass doesn't grow well because of the pine needles and shady area.        The information on the Japanese Beatle is overwhelming.  I will no longer be using the bug in a bag system to try to keep them from eating my butterfly bush.  Not sure what I'm going to try.  While raking before I attempt to mow, there were several mole trails in and around my rock gardens.  I use the Motomco poison worms to eliminate the moles from my yard and around my plants.  This product seems to work for the moles.        As if that's not enough to deal with.  I have a shed that I have plants growing on all sides of.  The fuzzy bumble bees have built a home under the side of my shed that is just four feet from my house.  I'm careful not to disturb them and they don't seem to mind my occasionally walking by or working a short distance around them.  However, as summer continues, there are lots more of them and they are getting bigger and bigger.  I don't know how to rehome them, if that's even possible.  I don't want to kill them.      Thank you so much for your time and expertise.  Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.  I share the information with my neighbors that have issues as well.  Have a great day.          From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> on behalf of Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> Sent: Wednesday, July 5, 2023 4:24 PM To: g.j.clink <<personal data hidden>> Subject: Re: fungal issues (#0108707)

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 06, 2023, 9:43 AM EDT
response: I apologize I didn't give you my address and phone #.      Gloria Clink      1772 Sunrise Dr.      Caro, MI 48723      <personal data hidden>   Again, thank you for your help.      From: Gloria Clink <<personal data hidden>> Sent: Thursday, July 6, 2023 1:34 PM To: Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> Subject: Re: fungal issues (#0108707)    Thank you for responding quickly.  The information was excellent.  I will no longer water any plants from above.  Japanese Spirea are looking better as the ladybugs are increasing.  Still have spots on them, but I'm hoping that by not watering from above that it will start to clear up.   I live in a park that has numerous pine and oak trees.        The pine trees are forever dropping pine needles as well as pine cones.  My yard needs to be raked every time before I mow the grass.  Instead of disposing of the pine needles and cones, I rake them up around the perimeter of my flower gardens as a natural mulch.  Usually in the spring I dispose of them and the process starts all over again.        When the oak trees start losing their leaves in the fall, I rake them into a path and run over them with my mulching lawn mower and cover my plants for the winter.  Then in spring when I clean out my flower beds, the leaves get turned into the soil.        Also, my neighbor uses a bagger on his lawn mower.  I take his grass clippings and spread them lightly throughout my flower garden as well as throughout the part of my yard where the grass doesn't grow well because of the pine needles and shady area.        The information on the Japanese Beatle is overwhelming.  I will no longer be using the bug in a bag system to try to keep them from eating my butterfly bush.  Not sure what I'm going to try.  While raking before I attempt to mow, there were several mole trails in and around my rock gardens.  I use the Motomco poison worms to eliminate the moles from my yard and around my plants.  This product seems to work for the moles.        As if that's not enough to deal with.  I have a shed that I have plants growing on all sides of.  The fuzzy bumble bees have built a home under the side of my shed that is just four feet from my house.  I'm careful not to disturb them and they don't seem to mind my occasionally walking by or working a short distance around them.  However, as summer continues, there are lots more of them and they are getting bigger and bigger.  I don't know how to rehome them, if that's even possible.  I don't want to kill them.      Thank you so much for your time and expertise.  Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.  I share the information with my neighbors that have issues as well.  Have a great day.          From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> on behalf of Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> Sent: Wednesday, July 5, 2023 4:24 PM To: g.j.clink <<personal data hidden>> Subject: Re: fungal issues (#0108707)

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 06, 2023, 10:42 AM EDT
response: You are welcome - Have a great day!

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 07, 2023, 7:11 AM EDT
response: When I clicked on the link, It didn't give me any advice on how to rehome my bumble bees without killing them.     From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> on behalf of Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> Sent: Thursday, July 6, 2023 2:42 PM To: g.j.clink <<personal data hidden>> Subject: Re: fungal issues (#0108707)

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 07, 2023, 8:51 AM EDT
response: Hello,  Tips on Relocating a Bumble Bee Nest - Below are some general guidelines:   If the nest is not inside an object (flowerpot, birdhouse, etc.) that can be moved, you will need to select a nest box that will be the new home for the bees. The nest box should have a small entrance for the bees to come and go. Line the bottom of the nest box with some soft nesting material (cotton batting, dried grass clippings, etc.).   Make sure you have all the tools and equipment you need before you start the relocation process. You want to get the job done quickly to minimize stress on the bees.   Be prepared for the bees to be defensive, as you are disturbing their home, and they have brood to protect. Wear protective clothing, at least a long-sleeved shirt and gloves.   Ideally, the nest should be moved at night because bees can’t fly in the dark. If possible, use a flashlight with a red beam (bees can’t see red) or cover the flashlight with red plastic so the bees don’t react. Try and recruit a helper to hold the flashlight while you move the nest!   Usually, nests are covered, so start by carefully uncovering the nest until it is exposed. Gently scoop the nest from underneath using a shovel or whatever tool is appropriate for the situation. A wide shovel is best so you can get the entire nest in one scoop. Be careful not to crush any delicate brood cells or spill nectar from the wax pots! Gently place the nest with the nesting material into the new nest box.  From the Emergency Bumble Bee Nest Relocation! - North Carolina State University article at this link: https://growingsmallfarms.ces.ncsu.edu/2023/05/emergency-bumble-bee-nest-relocation/  IF YOU FEEL YOU NEED PROFESSIONAL HELP - A BEEKEEPER (IN DISTRICT 6) MIGHT BE ABLE TO HELP IN THIS ENDEAVOR - THEY ARE LISTED AT THIS LINK: https://michiganbeekeepersassociation.org/Michigan-Bee-Clubs#District6  I hope this helps!