MIRAGE-Benchmark/MIRAGE huggingface dataset:
Aster yellows or rosette mites?

Question: Hello, I have some cone flowers that I think have rosette mites, but I wanted to confirm with an expert that it's not asters yellow before leaving the plant in place. I've attached some photos. I do not notice any odd coloring, just the growths/galls. I think I saw some super tiny bugs in the center of the flower, but I wasn't able to get a good look.

responder: The Question Asker Replied June 30, 2024, 7:07 PM EDT
response: I am also wondering if you have any ideas about what may be going on with this other cone flower and if it needs any sort of help or if it should be removed. It hasn't produced any petals. This is in the same garden as the plant I sent in the first email, but is about 10 feet away.

responder: The Question Asker Replied June 30, 2024, 7:25 PM EDT
response: One more set of pictures attached with two more cone flower plants in a third area of the garden. These ones weren't on my radar until I was wandering around the garden after I sent the first two sets of pictures. The picture called "plant 5 - 2" makes me think it's aster yellows.

responder: Evelyn Locke, MN Master Gardener, Tree Care Advisor, Volunteer    Replied July 03, 2024, 2:52 AM EDT
response: It is difficult to give an accurate diagnosis from a photo but the foliage appears healthy so rosette mite seems most likely.  Check out the link for more information and signs to look for. https://bygl.osu.edu/node/2191
Identify what is effecting plant

Question: I purchased two hydrangea plants this April that recieve afternoon sun for 4-6 hours. One plant developed dark brown curling of multiple leaves within 2 weeks, while the other plant only had a few. I removed the effected leaves on both plants but the curling recurred on the first plant. I removed them again and applied Neem Oil. There was no further curling for about 9 days but then it recurred on the first plant, but still not on the second one. I contacted the business I bought them from (including pictures) at the beginning of the problem and again last week (at that time I removed 28 more leaves from the plant). They say the curling is due to sun damage and advised I move the plants to a shaded location. Since this is happening to only one of the plants, I'd like a "second opinion" of what this could be and what action to take to prevent losing the plant. 

I have attached a picture of the healthy plant, and 2 pictures of the other plant at the beginning of the problem, and then when it recurred.

Thank you for your assistance.
Marcia

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 01, 2024, 10:00 AM EDT
response: Hi Marcia,   Hydrangeas are woodland plants, so most species need some shade even if labeled as full sun. The amount of shade required will vary depending on soil quality and water availability. Many cultivars are listed as full sun to partial shade, including oakleaf and panicle types. Bigleaf cultivars require moderate shade due to their high-water requirements. Bigleaf hydrangeas require more shade, especially in the heat of the day. The afternoon sun is too harsh for your hydrangeas, gentle morning sun is preferred by bigleaf cultivars.  You question why one has crispy brown leaves and the other is not.  It maybe that one plant is getting more water keeping the leaves hydrated.  I recommend moving the plants to a shader location.  Thank you for using Ask Extension.  Pam MSUE Master Gardener

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 01, 2024, 3:23 PM EDT
response: Thank you so much!Marcia   On Mon, Jul 1, 2024 at 10:00 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 02, 2024, 8:41 AM EDT
response: You're welcome.
Dahlia issues

Question: Hello! I have been growing dahlias for 3 years and most look great. But a few look really odd. They are all in the same two beds with the same soil. Can I get the soil tested and how? Meanwhile I am hoping you can look at my pictures and help me figure out if these plants can be saved.

responder: Kim  Replied July 02, 2024, 11:40 AM EDT
response: Hi Jennifer, Thank you for your question.  Aren't dahlias the best?  So what I see are some leaf curl and color variations and the one that is "stunted" or smaller than the others. I believe these are dahlia tubers that you planted.   However, I don't know if they are the same tubers year after year and if you have divided and stored them over winter.   So here are a few links to dahlias, this video covers a lot of info: https://mastergardener.osu.edu/HHHLNL23-24 and calls them the 'garden divas'  This https://bygl.osu.edu/index.php/node/1123 also has good information. The dahlia society of Ohio has an article on the dahlia virus which may be affecting the stunted dahlia that you have.  Read this and follow the suggestions of disposing of (not composing) this dahlia https://www.dahliasocietyofohio.org/dahlia-care and sanitize tools that you use.    In summary, I suggest disposing of the stunted dahlia that may have the virus and digging tubers once the foliage has died back in late fall and follow the storage suggestions in the articles (Ohio winters are too unpredictable to keep them in the ground and we don't meet the recommended zone 7-10 for leaving them in ground. And if you want to do the soil test, here is a resource for getting started  https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/hyg-1132 there are labs listed at the end of the article that do testing, it is usually through a pre paid kit they mail to you and you send back.  I hope this helps and you enjoy some beautiful flowers soon.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 10, 2024, 2:54 PM EDT
response: Thank you for this - I will visit all these links. I wil dispose of the stunted dahlia. It was a new tuber this year from Swan Island. I do store my own tubers and they have overwintered pretty well in peat moss and storage coolers but I will still watch the videos you sent. I am not highly skilled at dividing. Each year I also order 5-10 new tubers from reputable growers (r so I think), As for the ones with cured leaves and color patterns - do you think it is ok to keep those in the ground? They are growing and producing buds,

responder: Kim  Replied July 15, 2024, 11:54 AM EDT
response: Once you watch the dahlia virus video see if you think that meets the criteria and dispose accordingly.
Oak wilt

Question: Hello! We just planted this oak tree in spring of 2023. It did well last year, but this year, a majority of the leaves have turned brown. Two other trees -- different species -- have done well about 10 yards apiece, so we think they have had sufficient moisture. Note in the attached pictures that the leaves have some unusual brown patterns. Is this oak wilt? Not enough moisture? Something else?

responder: Aaron Steil  Replied July 02, 2024, 2:52 PM EDT
response: There are a number of diseases and environmental factors that can cause browning of the foliage of an oak tree. For trees in the red oak group, the symptoms of oak wilt start at the uppermost part of the tree and work down.  Leaves turn a dull, bronzed brown at the tips and along the outer margins, with a sharp line separating discolored from normal green tissue. The discoloration progresses toward the leaf base and the midrib.  From what I can see in the photos, this is not quite what is happening. The issue could be from a different oak disease - many of them have very similar symptoms.  You can use this guide to evaluate your tree to determine if any of the symptoms align with what you can see in person.  https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/files/inline-files/howtorecognizecommondiseasesoaks.pdf  I suspect this is not damage from a disease or insect.  The leaves appear to be browning in between the veins and the damage seems to be spread throughout the tree canopy.  This could be injury due to lack of water from dry soils or a compromised root system that prevents the tree from taking up moisture, despite the ground being moist.   There are many reasons why newly planted trees can show stress.  This article reviews those reasons.  Evaluate your environmental conditions and potentially identify the issue (or issues) that could be causing problems.  Management steps for these types of environmental issues are to correct the situation and provide good consistent care in an effort to help the tree recover/grow out of the issue. https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/decline-newly-planted-trees  While I don't suspect this is oak wilt based on what I can see in the photos, testing is the only way to know for certain.  More information on testing and how to submit a sample are here, if you are interested:  https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/files/article/files/pidc46_2018_oak_wilt_sampling_checklist.pdf

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 02, 2024, 3:26 PM EDT
response: Thanks for the detailed response! Lance W.  On Tue, Jul 2, 2024 at 1:52 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Japanese maple

Question: Japanese maple in my backyard has burnt looking leaves. This happens every year. Any suggestions on how to fix it?

responder: Thank you for your question!   Laura S.      Michigan State University Extension Advanced Master Gardener Volunteer You may also contact the toll free MSU Extension lawn and garden hotline at 1-888-678-3464 with your gardening questions or visit www.migarden.msu.edu for Smart Gardening resources. Replied June 30, 2024, 5:34 PM EDT
response: Hello Shawna Japanese maples, especially the narrow-leaf ones, prefer morning sun and afternoon shade. They all need consistently moist well-drained soil (but not soggy, wet soil). If your lace-leaf maple tree is receiving too much direct sun you will have this leaf scorch problem.  Moving the plant to an afternoon shaded location; placing other plants several feet away to its south and/or west to provide shade, are two solutions.  Check the soil about 4 inches down to be sure it is receiving enough water. Less competition for water from the nearby day lilies maybe helpful.  Here is an article with more about leaf scorch on Japanese maple, how to water and mulch it: https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=15059

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 01, 2024, 10:07 AM EDT
response: Thank you for your help! Shawna Sent from my iPhone On Jun 30, 2024, at 5:34 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:   ﻿

responder: Thank you for your question!   Laura S.      Michigan State University Extension Advanced Master Gardener Volunteer You may also contact the toll free MSU Extension lawn and garden hotline at 1-888-678-3464 with your gardening questions or visit www.migarden.msu.edu for Smart Gardening resources. Replied July 01, 2024, 10:09 AM EDT
response: You are welcome, glad to help.
New beetle in my garden devoured a clematis

Question: New beetle in my garden, devoured a clematis , now on rose

responder: Alison O'Connor, PhD  Replied July 01, 2024, 1:53 PM EDT
response: Hi Caitlin,  This is a gray blister beetle. And yes, their damage can be extensive. I don't believe rose is a host?   Your best management is to have a bucket of soapy water and knock the beetles into it. Their populations are high, but short-lived. Wear gloves, as the beetles can cause serious irrigation. Following collection, wash your gloves and hands/clothes.  There are insecticides that can be used, but because these are on flowering plants, you risk harming beneficial pollinators.  Here's more information: https://webdoc.agsci.colostate.edu/bspm/arthropodsofcolorado/Clematisblisterbeetle.pdf

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 01, 2024, 2:50 PM EDT
response: Thank you .A clematis seems to be their favorite.  CaitlínSent from my iPhone On Jul 1, 2024, at 11:53 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:   ﻿
Unknown pest

Question: I have a beautiful edgeworthia that seems to be doing great. However l noticed today that there are little, super hard brown seed like things hanging from a thin thread. I tried breaking the seed open but it just crumbles. They are hanging from the underside of the leaves on about 3/4 of the tree. Is this an insect problem? I don't know if you can tell anything by my photos. Thank you, Kean Lange

responder: Rhonda Frick-Wright  Replied July 01, 2024, 7:21 PM EDT
response: Hi Kean and thanks for your question about the tiny black "things" hanging from your edgeworthia. You are right, I can't tell from your picture what they might be. You can try to put one in a jar and see if it hatches into something, but as long as your plant is doing fine, I wouldn't worry about them. If you can get a better picture with the light on it instead of behind it and with more magnification, we can try again.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 02, 2024, 12:50 PM EDT
response: Thanks, I will give that a try. Kean  On Mon, Jul 1, 2024, 4:21 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
why is my buddleia crashing?

Question: I have several dwarf buddleias (Lo & Behold 'Blue Chip Jr.') that were planted last April, and they did fine last year. 4 days ago I noticed that there were a few wilted looking stems and some yellow leaves on one of them, and now, about 75% of the stems and leaves on that plant have turned brown. In the attached photo, all the flowers and most of the green leaves are on the adjacent plants. Aside from a few yellow leaves, none of the other plants appear to be affected. What could cause a plant to fail so fast? We do have some voles and chipmunks around, maybe they are eating the roots? No apparent insect damage.

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied July 01, 2024, 11:14 AM EDT
response: We have seen this happen on occasion, even in nursery pots at garden centers, though don't have a concise diagnosis as several factors could be responsible in creating similar or overlapping symptoms. Root rot, an infection like one of the wilt diseases (Verticillium or others), and Botryosphaeria canker could be possibilities. You can look around the crown (where growth emerges at the soil line) for vole gnawing, though we doubt chipmunks will be bothering it.  Unfortunately nothing can save the pictured plant and it needs to be removed. We recommend considering a different species replacement, since Buddleia can be invasive. (Some cultivars are supposedly sterile, though we don't know how reliable that trait is from one cultivar to another.) If you replant Buddleia, make sure the site has well-drained soil, and the plant is only watered once the soil about six inches deep becomes somewhat dry to the touch at that depth.  Miri

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 01, 2024, 11:19 AM EDT
response: Thanks so much for the information and prompt reply. I did a lot of research before choosing my plants, but had no idea that buddleia was considered invasive!  On Jul 1, 2024, at 11:14, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied July 01, 2024, 11:31 AM EDT
response: You're welcome. Most cultivars of Buddleia do set viable seed, though over time, more cultivars introduced into the market are supposedly sterile (or nearly so), in addition to having traits like a dwarf growth habit or larger bloom clusters.  Miri
Fruit Tree Leaf Issues

Question: Attached are a few images of a new leaf issue I am experiencing. The problem is limited to relatively small areas, primarily new leaf growth. on my Bartlett pear and Bing cherry trees. The internet did not provide any definitive causes or cures, so I'm wondering if you have any ideas. I live on Westview Drive in Klamath Falls. Thank you, again, for your kind assistance.

I will send a separate message with an image of the Bing cherry leaf front view.

Mark Earnest<personal data hidden>

responder: Jay W. Pscheidt, PhD, Professor  Replied July 01, 2024, 2:01 PM EDT
response: Looks like you have an insect problem we affectionately call pear slug. It is really the pear sawfly but the larvae sure look like a little slug - if you find it. It just skeletonizes the leaf as we see in your images. You can read more about it here (and on many other crops): https://pnwhandbooks.org/insect/tree-fruit/pear/pear-pear-sawfly-pear-slug

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 01, 2024, 2:56 PM EDT
response: Thank you for identifying the culprit. I found one slug on the Bing cherry tree, so far, and have eliminated it, along with some of the most chewed up leaves.   The trees are newly planted this spring. The sawflies appear to be doing a fair amount of damage, including the new leaves.   What is the preferred method for eradicating sawflies? Can they be eliminated, or is this likely to be an ongoing problem?    Mark    On Monday, July 1, 2024 at 11:01:13 AM PDT, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 02, 2024, 5:05 PM EDT
response: Hi Mark, if you click on the link Jay sent you, the pesticide options for you are detailed. These insects have a second generation later in the summer, you are likely to see another round in August or so. The link has your chemical options as well. If you can catch this generation before they strat to drop to the ground to pupate, you can drastically reduce the number available to eat the leaves later this season. If not, a treatment when you start seeing the next generation is helpful. You want to catch them while still in the tree, as there's no treatment for them once they drop to the ground to pupate. The damage can be drastic on small/ young trees, but mature trees can often stand a minor infestation with little overall damage to the tree. I hope this helps, Nicole

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 03, 2024, 3:43 PM EDT
response: Hi Nicole,  I did read the embedded link but wasn't sure what type of treatment would be preferred. I went ahead and purchased OMRI-listed organic insecticidal soap and Spinosad and will try those as directed.   Thank you again for your and Dr. Pscheidt's assistance. The key was identifying the problem. I consulted with internet for additional information about the pear sawfly. I don't see any additional larvae and there's been little additional leaf damage since the initial discovery. I now know what to look for and what to do in the future.  Best regards,  Mark    On Tuesday, July 2, 2024 at 02:06:00 PM PDT, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Bartlett Pear tree orange rust

Question: I am looking for information on your website about a fungus that affects Bartlett Pear trees. It is sometimes called "Orange Rust" or "Pear Rust". My search only turned up information about cedar trees. I understand that cedar trees are involved in the cycle but I don't have a cedar tree, I only have a Bartlett Pear tree. Where would I find information related to Bartlett Pear trees? I have a tree that has orange spots all over it's leaves. This is the first year this has happened. I've included a photo of my pear tree's leaves.
Thank you for any assistance.

responder: Jacki D., Master Gardener Diagnostician Volunteer (Washington, Multnomah and Clackamas Counties) Oregon State University Extension Service Volunteer Metro Master Gardeners (http://metromastergardeners.org/) Replied July 01, 2024, 7:54 PM EDT
response: Please share a photo of the leaf underside to confirm this is a rust. This blog from OSU is one of the most succinct articles I’ve seen. The resources linked provide more details.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 07, 2024, 5:11 PM EDT
response: Here is a photo of the underside of 3 Bartlett pear tree leaves. Any additional information or suggestions is appreciated.  I read the article by Jean Natter and concluded that it would be difficult to protect the pear tree from pear rust. The tree is located in NE Portland in a neighborhood where lots are relatively small. We might look into have a service spray the tree but that depends of possible downside consequences of spraying chemicals. Perhaps the answer is to plant disease resistant trees. Thank you

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 11, 2024, 7:11 PM EDT
response: I believe your diagnosis to be accurate. You are also right in that its other host (it needs both pear family hosts and incense cedar) could be some distance away and the spores moved by wind. The disease is worse some years and not seen much in others. We had a lot of rain this spring with strange 70 degree patches in between.    Here is the PNW Plant Disease Handbook on the subject: https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/pear-pyrus-spp-pacific-coast-pear-rust  There is a newer rust (here)  that goes from juniper to pears that might be it but the treatments are more or less there same. https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/pear-pyrus-spp-trellis-rust-european-pear-rust   The Handbook guidance is mainly focused toward commercial pear growers.   None of the listed fungicides are available to homeowners according to the PNW link. So if you were seeking treatment, you would need a commercial firm to do the treatment. Since the disease is rather sporadic, you might try living with it, knowing there  will be mostly good years with low disease presence and some bad ones. I hope this helps. Please feel free to respond to this through Ask Extension or directly at <personal data hidden>.   Chip Bubl. OSU Extension Agent/Columbia County (retired)
Sticky white stuff on the base of my streptocarpella

Question: What is this sticky white stuff on the base of my streptocarpella? Leaves are dying up the stem. This is a house plant. Can it be treated or do I have to get rid of it?

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied July 01, 2024, 10:01 AM EDT
response: These look like mealybugs, a very common indoor plant pest. They most often infest stems and leaves, but sometimes also inhabit the root ball. If you pull the plant out of its pot, look for white fuzzy residue around some roots, which would suggest they are also living in the soil. (I suspect they are...I had exactly this situation with a declining Streptocarpella that always seemed to dry out faster than I thought it should, and it had lots of root mealybugs.)  While one or two insecticide options (including a systemic) are labeled for indoor use, it might be simplest and faster to just propagate the plant. I took cuttings to root from the top growth (cleaning off dead leaves and rinsing off any mealybugs in the process) and threw out the old root ball. Otherwise, a systemic insecticide applied as granules might take a week or so to begin to take effect, though it should last for several weeks per dose.  Miri

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 01, 2024, 10:23 AM EDT
response: Thank you. I will try propagating new plants. I'm glad you have had  
personal experience with this same plant!
marty


Quoting Ask Extension <ask>:

></ask>

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied July 01, 2024, 10:44 AM EDT
response: You're welcome.