MIRAGE-Benchmark/MIRAGE huggingface dataset:
Diseased leaves Honeycrisp Apple Tree

Question: I have a young honey crisp apple tree whose leaf veins are turning dark brown and leaves seem curled. 

Some of the leaves look normal and others have mottling with light green. Which I assume is honeycrisp mottling disease. 

But I’m not finding any diseases that cause browning veins.

responder: Deb Reierson  Replied July 08, 2024, 8:58 PM EDT
response: It does look like your tree has Honeycrisp leaf mottling disorder. It is unique to Honeycrisp trees.  The leaves are suffering from chlorosis because of a building-up of carbohydrates. The browning veins is just the advanced stage of the chlorosis.  There is nothing you can do for this. It is mostly cosmetic and the disorder does not affect the fruit. It usually shows up in low fruiting years.  It will usually disappear as the tree matures. https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/honeycrisp_leaf_yellowing_showing_up_on_michigan_apples https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/extension-topics/gardening-and-horticulture/trees-and-shrubs/apple-trees/diagnosing-apple

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 09, 2024, 7:00 PM EDT
response: Thanks!!  Sent from my iPhone On Jul 8, 2024, at 7:58 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:   ﻿
A “Pest” (insect)

Question: Please identify the “pest” on the winter creeper.  How should this be treated?

responder: Thank you for your question!   Laura S.      Michigan State University Extension Advanced Master Gardener Volunteer You may also contact the toll free MSU Extension lawn and garden hotline at 1-888-678-3464 with your gardening questions or visit www.migarden.msu.edu for Smart Gardening resources. Replied July 05, 2024, 8:36 PM EDT
response: Hello Barbara This is a heavy infestation of euonymus scale insects.They are difficult to control. I suggest you spray as directed in the following bulletin at least 1-2 times, spacing the sprays apart the number of days indicated on the label of the product you use. Then, treat the shrubs with a systemic this fall as suggested by the bulletin. Again, follow the label directions exactly- the label is the law and all,precautions and directions must be followed for safety of plants, pets and people. https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/euonymus-scale/  By the way, Winter creeper, Euonymus fortunei is a “garden thug” and difficult to control and is no longer recommended for gardens. It is considered an invasive non-native in many areas. If you decide to replace yours, consider this advice from Extension— “Instead of invasive winter creeper and lysimachia, for ground cover plant Barren Strawberry or Bearberry Cotoneaster.” Here are some others- https://www.purdue.edu/hla/sites/master-gardener/wp-content/uploads/sites/9/2022/04/Invasives_Native-Alternatives-Part2.pdf

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 06, 2024, 3:21 PM EDT
response: Thank you very much for your informative, helpful response.  I am planning on removing the euonymus asap and replacing it in the fall with something more suitable.  Sent from my iPhone On Jul 5, 2024, at 8:36 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:   ﻿

responder: Thank you for your question!   Laura S.      Michigan State University Extension Advanced Master Gardener Volunteer You may also contact the toll free MSU Extension lawn and garden hotline at 1-888-678-3464 with your gardening questions or visit www.migarden.msu.edu for Smart Gardening resources. Replied July 06, 2024, 5:29 PM EDT
response: Glad to be of help!
Tomato Disease

Question: Can you help me identify what’s causing this stem issue?

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 08, 2024, 10:20 AM EDT
response: Hi Amanda, This looks like it may be no more that some scrapes on the stem, buti could be another stem problem could just be beginning to manifest itself.  Are you seeing any other problems, like wilting, yellow leaves, etc?  Anything than may not look natural? I look forward to your response.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 08, 2024, 10:39 AM EDT
response: Thank you for your prompt reply.   Yes, the fruit has dark spots as well.        On Jul 8, 2024, at 10:20 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:   ﻿

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 10, 2024, 8:45 AM EDT
response: Hi Amanda,  Thanks for the additional information.  The symptoms seem to point towards anthracnose.  This disease is caused by a fungus of the Colletotrichum spp. Usually, the spots on the tomato only show up on the ripening fruit which places some doubt on that it is anthracnose. Using a copper fungicide may be a good protective measure.  The bumps on the stems appear to be adventitious root primordia, that could produce roots if in contact with soil.  These could be, but not necessarily, an indication of a watering issue.  Try to keep soil consistently damp.  If you start noticing other symptoms let us know.  Check out the following links: Bacterial Wilt of Cucurbits (cornell.edu) Managing Tomato Diseases, Disorders, and Pests | Yard and Garden (iastate.edu) I hope this helps.
Causes for swampy milkweed leaf discoloration

Question: Hello, I am hoping you will be able to tell me the cause of discoloration of some of my swamp milkweed plants' leaves. Some of the leaves are mottled with darker (normal?) green and lighter shades of green. Also, a few of the leaves are edged and/or tipped in a rust red color. Can you tell me if these are due to a nutrient deficiency or disease or something else? Thank you!

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied July 08, 2024, 3:42 PM EDT
response: Hi,  Are these the older leaves towards the bottom of the plant? If  not it could be some heat and drought stress symptoms. In any case it isn't anything to be concerned about and the plant should be fine.  Just make sure it is receiving water as needed and at the base of the plant.  Emily

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 22, 2024, 3:21 PM EDT
response: Hi, Emily, I am so sorry it has taken me weeks to respond...no excuse. I thank you so very much for your response to my swamp milkweed leaves question. The information you shared was very helpful and set my mind at ease. Thank you! Gratefully, Cathy    On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 3:42 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied July 22, 2024, 3:32 PM EDT
response: No problem Cathy, you are welcome!
How to transplant red twig dogwood

Question: We have a large red twig dogwood, a few years old. It's quite large - about 5 ' ft wide and 5 ' ft tall. Here is a photo of it.  In Suffolk County NY, zone 7. When would be the right time to transplant it, and how?  Thanks!

responder: Ed Replied July 08, 2024, 12:07 PM EDT
response: When to transplant would be in the Fall, after it has gone dormant for the winter. From what I can see, it may not be easy.  My impression is that it is at least partially surrounded by pavers.  If they are the type that allows water to pass through, it is likely that the root system is partly under the pavers which means you will need to remove some of them. You will probably need to prune the plant back to reduce the demands on the roots and will most likely need to reduce the roots to get it out of the ground with a root ball smaller the the existing extent of the root system that it now has.  If this is a significant plant to you, you might want to hire a professional to help you with the transplant.  Without knowing the soil that it is growing in and the extent of the roots,  I can not give much more information.  You will also need to know the soil in the location where you plan on placing the plant.  If it is in a well drained area, the new location should be equivalent or it may take some time for it to adapt and grow to its present size.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 11, 2024, 11:26 AM EDT
response: Thank you for your reply. Fall once dormant is good. Those aren’t pavers - they’re stamped concrete, so water doesn’t flow through them. If we reduce the roots, the plant will be smaller, right? That isn’t a problem!I can find out the type of soil later. I do believe the soil in that location is the same as where we’ll be transplanting this beauty.

responder: Ed Replied July 11, 2024, 7:25 PM EDT
response: Depending on the soil type, the roots could still grow under it but not as much as on the soil side.  I am thinking sandy soil which would allow more water to move under it.   If there is little or no root growth under the concrete, it will be much easier to dig it up. Do a search for red twigged dogwood root structure on line to get some idea of how the roots grow.  My impression from what I read, is that you will find multiple branching under all that green since the plant will sprout from runners.  Depending on the growth, you might be able to split that plant into several separate shrubs.  Do the search and you will see what I am talking about.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 12, 2024, 11:55 AM EDT
response: Yes, you're correct: silky, sandy soil. (south shore of Long Island in Suffolk County. )That would be ok if we could split it into several separate shrubs. This is good to know. I looked up "red twigged dogwood root structure" and while there aren't many photos there were a lot of descriptors! Thank you for your helpful information! Much appreciated.

responder: Ed Replied July 12, 2024, 12:27 PM EDT
response: good luck.  That is a nice plant.
What’s wrong with my azealas?

Question: My azaleas have yellow leaves with dark spots. What is wrong and what to do? Thank you.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 05, 2024, 4:39 PM EDT
response: There are also black spots on leaves and maybe spider mites. Help. Thank you.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 08, 2024, 2:41 PM EDT
response: Thanks for reaching out and for providing photos of your issue. From the third photo you submitteed, it does look like your azalea may hava a spider mite or lace bug infestation. Both pierce the leaves to get to liquid of the plant cells and cause a yellow to bronze stippling of the leaf. You can usually see them on the underside of the leaves (as they appear to be in your photo) but if you have a heavy infestation, you may also see them on the tops as well. The control measures you can take for both are similar.  If the issue doesn't seem too widespread, a strong spray of water can help dislodge them. You can also use insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils such as neem oil, which are effective against both spider mites and lace bugs. These treatments should be applied thoroughly to the undersides of the leaves, where these pests tend to reside. These options are low toxicity options with respect to their effect on pollinators. It can also be helpful to spray when they are not in bloom, which should not be an issue this time of year. Another good practice is to spray in the evening, near dusk, when many pollinators are less active.  There is some additional helpful information here in the AskExtension Knowlege Base here: https://ask2.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=785027 as well as on the UMD webpage on Identifying problems on Azaleas and Rhododendrons: https://extension.umd.edu/resource/azaleas-and-rhododendrons-identify-and-manage-problems. Look for the section 'Lace Bugs'. Please reach out if you have additional follow up questions.   -Rebekah DC Master Gardener
Big green caterpillar

Question: Hi! This guy showed up in our backyard today. He wasn’t moving, but was gripping the pine straw tightly. I moved him into my fireweed stand, but would like to know what he likes to eat. I did a brief online image search but couldn’t find him. Any help is appreciated. I volunteer with Pollinator Pathway and have mostly native plants and no insecticides. That shiny thing is a quarter.

responder: Cristi  Replied July 08, 2024, 7:21 PM EDT
response: Hi Robin:  This is the caterpillar of the white-lined sphinx moth (Hyles lineata), otherwise known as the hummingbird moth.  That is a beautiful specimen you have visiting you...  Here is some additional information on this species, including what they like to eat:  White Lined Sphinx Moth  Enjoy,

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 08, 2024, 8:37 PM EDT
response: Thank you so much, Cristi! I have the adults in my yard frequently, feeding on my Palmer’s penstemon and other flowers. I hope this one got himself buried underground so he can pupate successfully. So good to know!  Thanks again!  Robin   On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 4:21 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Cristi  Replied July 09, 2024, 11:12 AM EDT
response: You're Welcome!
New fig trees red spots

Question: Hi, I’m seeing either yellowing lower leaves or these red spots on the lower leaves of my figs. Affecting LSU purple, and all fig types in backyard. Direct sun. Heavy marine clay soil amended at planting with tree tone, peat moss, bone meal and compost.

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied July 08, 2024, 10:44 AM EDT
response: Hi- the tiny white spots (stiples) may be the result of spider mite feeding. Mites are favored by hot, dry weather and their feeding injury is being observed on many crops across the state. The red/brown spots are not caused by a disease. They are likely a symptom of significant spider mite feeding.  Look closely at the leaf undersides with a hand lens or magnifier to observe the mites and their webbing material. Mites are deterred by wet, humid conditions, so spraying down your fig trees with water during the day will dislodge and deter them. Spraying insecticidal soap or horticultural oil can burn leaves when temperatures are >85 degrees F. Also, these pesticides can further injure foliage when spider mite feeding is severe.  You may want to have your soil tested to get baseline information on soil pH, nutrient levels, and organic matter content: https://extension.umd.edu/resource/soil-testing-and-soil-testing-labs/ Jon

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 08, 2024, 2:50 PM EDT
response: Thanks so much Jon!  On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 10:44 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Bug ID

Question: What is this? I am suddenly seeing them a lot. In Wasilla. Don't ever remember seeing them before.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 08, 2024, 12:16 PM EDT
response: Hi Fil,  Your insect is a species of weevil. From your photo I can't quite tell which species, but we have several of these large weevils that are common in Alaska. One common one is Trichalophus alternatus, I can't quite tell if that's your species here but they appear similar in case you were wanting to look up photos or more information about them.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 10, 2024, 9:37 PM EDT
response: That's it for sure thank you! I'm just seeing them like crazy this year. I wasn't able to find a lot of info on the web. Are they harmful to landscaping? Sincerely,  Fil    Sent from my Galaxy   -------- Original message -------- From: Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>>  Date: 7/8/24 8:16 AM (GMT-09:00)  To: Fil Spiegel <<personal data hidden>>  Subject: Re: Bug ID (#0145878)

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 11, 2024, 11:46 AM EDT
response: HI Fil, these shouldn't be an issue for your landscaping, they sometimes can be a nuisance for folks who don't have well-sealed doors and windows as they can accidentally end up indoors in fall when looking for overwintering sites but they are harmless.
Weevils

Question: We have weevils eating our raspberry plants and clematis. In the last few days, we have collected dozens. How can we eradicate them?

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 10, 2024, 11:21 AM EDT
response: Those appear to be two-banded Japanese weevils. Common critters on trees, shrubs, and brambles in backyard plots.   Depending on how much time you have and how big a plot you are maintaining, the two options are to pick them off by hand or apply a foliar insecticide.   To hand pick them, you carry around a cup of soapy water. Pick the weevil and drop it into the cup. Leave them to die in the cup for a day or so then dump them in the trash or somewhere else.   For chemical management, you have several options. Malathion, Sevin, Neem oil, and various pyrethroids all have some level of effect on different beetle species including weevils. The key is make sure you have adequate coverage so they get a good enough dose to be killed.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 17, 2024, 1:55 PM EDT
response: Thank you for the prompt response. My understanding is you need to kill the larva in the ground in order to truly eradicate.  Is this accurate and if so how do I go about doing that?

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 26, 2024, 10:30 AM EDT
response: The challenge with insects like these is that they tend to have a wide host range. They are feeding on more than just your landscaped plants. Yes, you can help manage them in the spring using a soil drench of imidacloprid under your plants, but they may be emerging from other areas as well. So, that will not eradicate them. It will only help manage them. I would recommend a multi-tiered approach if they are getting bad enough to warrant a strong management strategy.   First would be to do a soil drench as mentioned with imidacloprid in the spring as the plants start growing. Then as the adults start showing up, a foliar spray of insecticide that works on weevils. And as a third option, as you continue to see adults through the summer, you can treat again if you wish or you can pick them off and kill them as you see them. A soap solution in a bottle next to you every time you are out there to spray on the adults you see may be of help, but is not as effective on robust beetles as it is on soft insects like aphids.
current bush pest?

Question: I have a wild currant bush that looks like it has a pest infestation, possibly currant fruit fly? I'll attach a photo. It doesn't look quite like the images I see online. The berries are oily/sticky also. Can you identify what is happening and how to remediate?

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 05, 2024, 3:03 PM EDT
response: Hello! Based on what I can see in the photograph, I think that you do not have a currant bush there, rather it is a three-leaf (aka skunkbrush) sumac, a native shrub.  The fruits certainly have some cottonwood fluff on them; it's a bit tough to say if I can also see the cast molts of aphids, which could be there to take advantage of the growing fruits. You can take no action (the long-term risk to the plant is nil), or consider washing the fruits with a strong jet of water to remove any aphids, if they are indeed present. I hope this helps! Cordially, John

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 05, 2024, 3:38 PM EDT
response: Thank you!
Asters Yellow?

Question: See photo please.  Thanks for your opinion. My concern is possible Asters Yellow

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 08, 2024, 11:03 PM EDT
response: Hello, I don't think that is Aster yellows, I think it is Eriophyid Mite. Your flower is just distorted but, still retains color. You do not have to dig it up. https://bygl.osu.edu/node/2191#:~:text=However%2C%20the%20mite%20is%20generally,sucking%20in%20the%20cell%20contents. https://bygl.osu.edu/node/396 Hope this helps, Sally Granath St. Louis County MG

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 11, 2024, 7:57 PM EDT
response: Thanks for the mite info. This is in another section of my yard. What do you think?  Linda  On Jul 8, 2024, at 10:04 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:   ﻿

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 11, 2024, 10:27 PM EDT
response: Ooooh, that last one is not so good. I think I would take that one out. It's showing no color/pigment. Get rid of it.
what is afflicting my Mexican sunflower plant after a decade?

Question: I've had for a decade a sun and drought-tolerant plant that I believe is a helianthus but I don't know its scientific name. The person who gave it to me said it was some kind of Mexican sunflower. It's sited in a very hot, sunny, south-facing spot along the driveway. For 10 days it thrived, then last year, but especially this year (see photos) it got this mildew-looking film on the leaves. I can wipe it off, but the bottom leaves are already yellowing and since I don't know what this is, I'm not sure wiping will help. Please advise. Thanks!

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 08, 2024, 1:19 PM EDT
response: Thank you for your question.  Your plant has powdery mildew, described here:  https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/sunflower-helianthus-spp-powdery-mildew  You can read that providing more air circulation helps, as well as removing any leaves that have been affected.  Once the fungus has established itself, fungicides do no good.  Neither does wiping it off, because the fungus has penetrated cell walls.  Next year, apply one of the fungicides marked "H" (available to homeowners) before you see any signs of the mildew.    Good luck!

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 08, 2024, 1:37 PM EDT
response: Hi: Because this is a very, very sunny spot, with good air circulation, I'm wondering how it could be subject to mildew. Since I won't use chemicals in my landscaping (I'm assuming the "H" fungicides you refer to are not an organic, natural product?), I may need to remove this plant and replace with with something that isn't vulnerable to this fungicide. Especially since it sounds like it's now in the soil. Do I understand this correctly? Thanks so much! Kyna Rubin   On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 10:19 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 08, 2024, 2:23 PM EDT
response: We live in the fungus capitol of the world, and powdery mildew  is an airborne fungus, not a soil borne one.  Our humidity is high, and our cool temperatures are perfect for most fungi.  Soil fungi cause “root rot”, not mildew.  The fungicides on the list labelled “O” are organic, but may be difficult to obtain.

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 08, 2024, 3:23 PM EDT
response: Got, thanks so much!   On Mon, Jul 8, 2024 at 11:23 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied July 08, 2024, 3:27 PM EDT
response: Welcome!
Kiwiberry issue?

Question: Hi there,

I planted two kiwi-berry either last year or the one before, and this year they seem to have a blight or bacterial infection, perhaps? Any diagnosis or treatment would be welcomed.

responder: Deb Kroon  Replied July 04, 2024, 5:08 PM EDT
response: Thank you for reaching out to ask2.extrnsion. This looks like bacterial leaf spot.    Remove and destroy any infected plant material, including leaves and stems. Wash your hands after handling diseased plants. Practice crop rotation to avoid planting the same species in the same location for at least 3 years. Consider applying copper-based fungicides or other natural or synthetic bactericides on a 7 to 10 day schedule; use the shorter interval when rain, high humidity and warm temperatures occur. This can also spread to the fruit.  I’m thinking that all of the rain and wind we’ve had is a contributor. I hope this helps!

responder: The Question Asker Replied July 05, 2024, 3:09 PM EDT
response: Sounds good, thank you!