MIRAGE-Benchmark/MIRAGE huggingface dataset:
Lawn grass

Question: Bluegrass lawn has bare spots due to shading and root/water competition from mature trees.  I'm going to try overseeding.  Any suggestions for a relatively shade tolerant, low water grass species?  Ideally will green up and go dormant when the bluegrass does.

responder: Colorado Master Gardener, Denver County Replied April 29, 2023, 2:11 PM EDT
response: Hi Ron: I have researched the new seed options and most need about 6 hours of partial shade to do well.  there are newer more shade tolerant grass cultivars in the Zoysia family: Diamond , Cavalier, Crowne and El Toro. I'd suggest you look into those as a place to begin and then speak to a lawn expert at a well established turf department or sod and seed vendor.

responder: Colorado Master Gardener, Denver County Replied April 30, 2023, 12:05 PM EDT
response: We did some more research and came across two Plant Talk articles that we want to share with you. The first one says Zoysia is not a good choice for Colorado's short summers so that changes what we suggested to you in our previous answer: https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/lawns/1511-zoysia-grass/.  The second Plant Talk article specifically addresses growing grass in shade and it recommends "[V]arieties of chewing fescue and creeping red fescue tolerate light shade quite well. Tall fescue has moderate shade tolerance and some varieties of Kentucky bluegrass have fair shade tolerance." Here is the link: https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/lawns/1511-zoysia-grass/

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 30, 2023, 4:00 PM EDT
response: I’m glad you reviewed that answer because I didn’t find it very helpful. The expert didn’t address my water concerns, and the first thing I found about zoysia grass. Was that it didn’t do well under tree shade, as well as having a short green season. So I will follow your recommendations which sound more feasible. Thank you. Zoysia grass used to be advertised in the Sunday newspaper, supplements, as some sort of miracle product, so I have always considered something of a quack product.
Invasive grass in my yard

Question: Can you identify this invasive lime green grass that is taking over my yard and advise as to what chemical will kill it? I've tried Bayer Acclaim and Trimec Plus without luck. Is it perhaps goosegrass?

responder: Ed Olsen  Replied April 28, 2023, 4:25 PM EDT
response: Sorry for the delay, I needed to pull in some of our turf weed specialists...  In image 1133 and 1135 that is liriope or monkey grass.  Unfortunately, we do not have selective control of this in turf.  You can handpull, use the glove-in-glove application method of Roundup (demonstrated in this video), or if a thick patch kill the entire area using Roundup and starting over.  The grassy weed in image 1136 is orchardgrass.  As with the liriope, we do not have selective controls for this in turf (you'll see that it's not listed on the Acclaim label.).  Use methods listed above for liriope.

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 30, 2023, 2:27 PM EDT
response: Thank you for your timely response. Had no idea I had liriope and orchard grass. This communication is confidential and is protected. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please immediately notify the sender at<personal data hidden> by telephone and delete this email. From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> On Behalf Of Ask ExtensionSent: Friday, April 28, 2023 4:25 PMTo: Michael Katzen <<personal data hidden>>Subject: Re: Invasive grass in my yard (#0097237)
Hedge for West facing Garden

Question: Hi! I lived in Upper Arlington and abut one of our schools. Two years ago we moved in and the previous owner did not have a hedge between the school/fence and our house. To remedy this, we put in eight skip laurels. They're growing great until the freeze of December this year. All of their leaves died, and I think some of them are dead. There are a couple that have some growth along the base, but I don't know if I should give up on them? I've included some pictures. If these are dead, do you have any recommendations for a full sun hedge? Initially we were looking at privets, but my understanding is these are invasive. We also looked at arborvitae, but we do get some deer, so we're nervous the deer will eat them. In a perfect world, they would be evergreen, but more important is fast growing as the kids are really only outside when it's nice out. Other plans that we have thought about are lilacs / viburnum and then maybe climbing hydrangea? As a stop gap we put in some limelight hydrangeas as well. Thank you so much for your help!

responder: Catherine Freay  Replied April 28, 2023, 3:50 PM EDT
response: New growth from the base is a good sign of life. These shrubs may be fine in the long run.  BUT, they are not really grown much in the north - zone 6 is the coldest they can take. Central Ohio is at the edge of that zone. Soil must also be very well drained.  No wet roots. Climbing hydrangeas are extremely slow growers.  Privet is invasive - do not use. Limelight hydrangea is a good choice. Dwarf lilac could work.  Viburnum, also a good choice. Viburnum species: V. dentatum., V. x burkwoodii ' Mohawk' for example. Viburnum can get very wide. Be sure to have enough depth in the bed for the species you choose. Many varieties to pick from.

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 29, 2023, 4:42 PM EDT
response: Hi Catherine!Thank you so very much (and sorry for the typos on my initial email)! We went ahead and removed the skip laurels and planted viburnum and lilacs across the fence line--leaving room for them to grow. We really appreciate your guidance!Colin and Jill Doggett On Fri, Apr 28, 2023, 3:50 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Catherine Freay  Replied May 10, 2023, 5:06 AM EDT
response: You are welcome.
looking for wind-break, border plant

Question: Hi!
   We lost a row of spruce trees over the years and I'd like to replace them with something fairly narrow to border between my yard and my neighbor's driveway.  The trees probably made a mess on their cars over the years, so we'd like to avoid that. (I think he put them up anyway B4 we got here.)  I was thinking an arborvitae, if I can get native ones.  There were 3 spruce trees so I'm guessing 4-6 arborvitae.  I'm wondering how far apart they can be placed. Some gap between them would be ok, but allowing for them to fill in?  The neighbor is nice, so it's not an issue of blocking him. Just for privacy in this side of the cul-de-sac and as a wind break.
Thanks!

responder: Replied April 27, 2023, 8:12 AM EDT
response: Hello!  I am sorry about the loss of your spruce trees.    Here are some lists of Ohio native plants:  https://ohiodnr.gov/discover-and-learn/safety-conservation/about-ODNR/nature-preserves/Documents/native-plants-lists  The arborvitae, though it grows well in Ohio, is not native to Ohio.   Before you select any plants, I recommend having a soil test done.  You can find information here:  https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/hyg-1132.  This will help to determine what types of plants you can plant, and what, if any, amendments your soil will need to sustain the new plants.    For instance, most arborvitae prefer alkaline soil.  Additionally, they prefer moist soil, so you'll also want to make sure that the soil is moist with good drainage.  This being said, the arborvitae is very adaptable to poor soils.    They also prefer full sun - partial shade.   Here is some information that should help you: https://ohiodnr.gov/discover-and-learn/plants-trees/scale-like-leaves/arborvitae-thuja-occidentalis   Once you know that your soil and sun will be conducive to the growth of the arborvitae, you'll need to select the proper variety.  To help with that decision, you'll need the dimensions of the area.  There are several varieties, ranging from ~3' to ~10'.  You'll want to visit a reputable local nursery to help you with the selection that will fit best.  I hope this helps!

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 30, 2023, 7:00 PM EDT
response: Yes, I had already visited the ODNR site on Thuja occidentalis. They make it sound like that particular arborvitae is native to Ohio, although mostly around bogs. If the spruces were non-native, I'm not exactly busted up over them. I'd rather have native trees anyway.Are they any other shrubs/trees with a more narrow spread that would fit the same function I described, a border, privacy wind-break?  I'm mainly looking for ideas of what we could get.LaurieOn Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 8:12 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Replied May 02, 2023, 9:09 AM EDT
response: Hello, I recommend doing a soil test to determine the best plant for the soil, and/or to amend the soil, if needed.  Once you know that, and the amount of sun, size of the area, you should be able to visit a reputable local nursery to help you with the plant selection that will fit your area best.
What snake is this.

Question: Need help identifying these two snakes.

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 26, 2023, 11:17 AM EDT
response: I believe these are both baby snakes.  Both next to woods under T post laying on ground.   Bottom pic was last oct. Top pic was yesterday and that one kept striking at me.  The farm had rattle snakes back in the 70's but haven't seen any for years.  Concerned about rattle snake getting my dog running in cow pasture.   2 mi. West of Bellevue.   Thanks.

responder: Clay Wilton  Replied April 26, 2023, 4:37 PM EDT
response: Hello and thanks for your inquiry. The first photo (20230425) is a garter snake and the second photo (20221009) is a northern water snake. The water snake is often mistaken for the massassauga rattlesnake, which is Michigan’s only venomous snake. The water snake can be fairly aggressive when cornered or provoked but they are nonvenomous. Hope this helps!

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 26, 2023, 10:05 PM EDT
response: On Wed, Apr 26, 2023, 4:37 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
What is this shrub?

Question: I found this growing in the Nature Center Garden of Piney Run Park. Can you identify it please?

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied April 26, 2023, 12:12 PM EDT
response: This looks like Fothergilla. These shrubs are native to the southeastern United States and also grow well here in Maryland. Here is our profile of this plant, for more information on the growing conditions it likes in a garden setting.  Christa

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 27, 2023, 12:13 PM EDT
response: Christa - Thank you so much!On Wed, Apr 26, 2023, 12:12 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied April 27, 2023, 12:14 PM EDT
response: You're welcome!
Damage to pines

Question: Could you please help me identify what's causing the damage to these trees, and what we should do about it.
The pines are 15 years old and in sandy clay soil.
Thank you.

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied April 27, 2023, 9:36 AM EDT
response: The third photo shows what appears to be an Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) or at least some kind of Juniper tree, and the orange residues are spores of a fungus called rust. (Likely Cedar-Quince Rust in this particular case.) This native tree is often infected by this naturally-occurring fungus, though fortunately it rarely causes serious damage to the Juniper. There is no treatment with fungicides possible as they will not cure an infection, but you can prune off small stems exhibiting signs of infection if they can be reached. Larger stems with rust can be removed too, but would leave more empty gaps in its canopy that will not fill back in, and if they are too numerous then pruning them out is not practical. If too much of an eyesore, or if the Juniper is becoming sparser and not growing well overall, you can just remove it entirely instead.  The pine in the first two photos is exhibiting a concerning amount of sap flow (the white residue) that may be linked to a borer infestation. Weakened trees and those under stress, such as from drought or overly-wet soil, are attractive to and more vulnerable to wood-boring insects. Once they enter a tree and damage the tissues under the bark, they are not treatable with an insecticide and too much of their feeding damage after a time can kill a tree, depending on the exact insect involved. We suggest you have the tree assessed by a certified arborist if you wish to keep it; while they won't be able to resolve every issue, they can help make a more precise diagnosis by looking for a variety of symptoms, plus look for sources of tree stress that you might be able to alleviate. The branch with brown needles is dead, however, and should be removed. Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobus), which this tree appears to be, can be somewhat short-lived or stress-prone in suburban conditions despite how widely they are planted, since its native range in Maryland is concentrated in our westernmost, mountainous counties where the soil is more well-drained and the climate a bit cooler, with less air pollution. This tree is sited very close to the fence considering its eventual mature size, and may also be too close to the power line (it's hard to tell) since this is not yet a full-size tree. If you decide to replace it, select a species of tree that's not going to mature that large or see if you can site it a bit further from the fence so it has more branch space and, depending on what's on the other side of the fence, more root room.  Miri

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 28, 2023, 5:49 PM EDT
response: Thank you for your impressively detsiled response, Miri, Natasha and Ron
One TOMATO plant yielded 3+ types

Question: 2022: purchased and grew Sweet 100 plant purchased at local BiMart. It was the only one left for sale; someone likely switched label, as none looked like Sweet 100, to me. Photo shows "harvest" from single plant in large container (grown on 3rd-floor balcony, limiting cross pollination). How can this happen? I did not eat any for fear of...

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied April 25, 2023, 6:17 PM EDT
response: Thank you for your question.  I have contacted "Ernesto," the grower for Iwasaki Bros. to see if he has an answer.  Tomato plants are often grafted, producing two or more varieties of tomatoes.  Yours appear to be Roma and Big Boy (although you don't show how large the 3 round ones are.  I will get back to you once I make contact with him.  Thank you.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied April 26, 2023, 12:29 PM EDT
response: I spoke with Ernesto at Iwasaki Bros. this morning.  He indicated that they do not sell grafted plants with two or more varieties on the same plant.  We can only speculate that the labels were switched, and that you need to check with Bi-Mart to see whether they have another supplier whose product this is.  We have no evidence, from what you have provided, that there is a food safety issue.

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 26, 2023, 5:05 PM EDT
response: I want to clarify that my question was posed out of _curiosity_, and absolutely NOT out of concern about Iwasaki Bros. plants. Photo below is one example of my frequent yields in years past. They are so reliably delicious that I purchased one for myself, and eight for my grandchildren, the day before asking my question. Theirs are THE best I ever have grown.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied April 26, 2023, 7:32 PM EDT
response: I'll let Ernesto know of your experience.
Maple surface roots

Question: We have a maple tree that has surface roots in an area we would like to cover with pavers.  Would it harm the tree if we cut the roots in order to have a smoother area for the pavers?  Thank you!

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied April 26, 2023, 12:42 PM EDT
response: Hello,  Yes, I think that would be hard on the tree.  It would affect the crown vigor, and may increase root rot.  I know this may not be a great solution, but if you talk with your contractor, you may be able to cover the roots with a few inches of soil and then add sand fairly deep and then put the pavers on top.  the only problem would be that as the roots grow, it may cause the pavers to become uneven.  If you do go ahead and cut roots and lay the pavers, I would just keep an eye on the tree and if you get branch dieback, you may want to have it pruned.  The tree would likely survive ok, but its long term health might be compromised. You may also consider watering the tree a few times during the summer.  but too much watering would exacerbate root rot.

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 26, 2023, 7:48 PM EDT
response: Thank you for the guidance.  Really appreciate the additional recommendations.  Best regards. Sent from my iPhone On Apr 26, 2023, at 9:42 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:﻿
Box elder tree appears to be dying from top down

Question: A large box elder maple tree borders our backyard fenceline but is on the neighbors property. The past couple of years it seems to be dying from the top down & is getting worse (picture attached). It is next to the alley, but elevated to match surrounding landscape. The house next door was purchased by a flipper & they are nice... working on the house gradually... but when asked, expressed no interest in the tree or possible problems.  The part that hangsvover out back yard is getting close to electric wires & we'd like to trim it. I'm afraid to do anything and worried it will fall on the elderly couples house directly across the alley.

responder: Answer Line answer@iastate.edu Iowa 800-262-3804 and Minnesota 800-854-1678  Replied April 25, 2023, 12:35 PM EDT
response: It sounds as if you live in a city or town.  Please start by contacting your city or town hall to talk to someone about the situation and learn what you can and cannot do and who is responsible to damages should limbs or tree bring down lines and even worse fall onto a home.  The laws regarding trees are a bit complex and change by state and jurisdiction.  It would also be a good idea to check with your home owners insurance company to learn what damages would be covered if the tree were to damage anything on your property.

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 25, 2023, 4:00 PM EDT
response: I think it would help my case if i knew the tree was probably in trouble. I'm an avid gardener but know little about trees although I don't think it's a good sign when the rop is basically dead. On Tue, Apr 25, 2023, 11:35 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Identify growths on grapevine cordon

Question: Can you identify the growths (circled) on the chardonnay cordons?

responder: Patty Skinkis, PhD  Replied April 27, 2023, 1:29 PM EDT
response: This looks like aerial rooting. Sometimes this is caused by crown gall. I suggest that you peel back the brown, loose bark and see what the growths look like underneath. Here are some resources to explore crown gall:  https://grapes.extension.org/crown-gall-of-grapes/ https://pnwhandbooks.org/node/2772/print

responder: The Question Asker Replied May 02, 2023, 3:04 PM EDT
response: Is there any benefit from peeling off bark from grapevines periodically.  The attached picture of my vines at the moment. Thanks,  Steven Choate2390 SE Meadow Ct.Gresham, OR 97080<personal data hidden> H<personal data hidden> C   From: ask=<personal data hidden> <ask=<personal data hidden>> On Behalf Of Ask ExtensionSent: Thursday, April 27, 2023 10:29 AMTo: Steven Choate <<personal data hidden>>Subject: Re: Identify growths on grapevine cordon (#0097028)

responder: Patty Skinkis, PhD  Replied May 02, 2023, 3:06 PM EDT
response: The thin bark that sloughs off of the grapevine does not need to be removed. Removing it may be done in search of pests or disease. In this case, removing it would help you determine if you see signs of galling from crown gall. As shown in the photo provided, aerial roots are forming, which is a suggestion that there may be crown gall.
What type of weeds in my garden

Question: I'm trying to determine the best way to treat these weeds in my lawn and garden . if I knew the names I could know how best to treat.

responder: The Question Asker Replied April 25, 2023, 12:27 PM EDT
response: I'm trying to determine the best way to treat these weeds in my lawn and garden . if I knew the name I could know how best to treat.

responder: Answered by theHome and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied April 26, 2023, 12:29 PM EDT
response: Your first photo looks like the weed commonly called "Creeping Charlie" or Ground Ivy. Around your tulips there, just pull it. Here is our page on it:  https://extension.umd.edu/resource/ground-ivy  Your second photo is of Wild Violets, which are a native plant for Maryland and which are blooming beautifully right now. More on them here: https://extension.umd.edu/resource/wild-violet Your third photo shows Chickweed. This plant started growing in late fall/winter and is just about to die back, so just pull what is there now or after it dies back.  Knowing the type of weed, and when it grows, like whether it is annual (growing anew from seed each year, some in spring, some in fall and winter)  or perennial (returns each year) helps to decide how they are best controlled or even just allowed to grow.  It's best to avoid herbicides/sprays unless absolutely necessary.  Know that many 'weeds' grow due to certain conditions, such as mowing lawns too short, or trying to grow grass in areas that are too shady or wet or the wrong pH (for instance, moss. A beautiful plant that does not outcompete or kill grass, but simply grows where grass can't.)  This page will show you more common weeds and what can be done about them:   https://extension.umd.edu/resource/weed-identification-photos-maryland   Christine