Amending without effecting sodium and calcium levels in the soil

Question: I have a question about amending soil. I did a soil test and got my results back. I attached a screenshot of my results. I wanted to know if I should try raising my pH this year or wait for the fall? Also, I want to increase my pH, but not raise my calcium and sodium levels in my soil. Is there a product that I can apply that will do that? I was told to use azomite, but the main ingrident in that is calcium.

responder: Linda J. Brewer, Senior Faculty Research Assistant II  Replied March 27, 2023, 1:01 PM EDT
response: Hello.  I'm going to assume that your goal is vegetable production on a home-garden scale. If that's not the case, please write back and clarify your production goal(s).   Your soil pH is essentially 6.0 - measurements reported to two decimal places are not very meaningful.   You can amend the soil at this time with agricultural lime, but you can't expect to change soil pH for this growing season. Your question about waiting until the fall indicates your awareness of the time required for the lime reaction to run to completion.  Agricultural lime will add calcium to your soil. Calcium-magnesium carbonate will also increase soil pH, but you don't require magnesium and it will increase calcium somewhat. I'm not aware of a material that will increase pH without increasing calcium. Quality compost, if used routinely, will stabilize soil pH.   As to Azomite's potential to increase soil pH: In looking at the manufacturer's website FAQs - it indicates that the product does not increase soil pH. See the question Will azomite work on any soil? It would increase boron and iron, which you soil is low in. Boron is necessary for production of brassicas - kale, broccoli, cabbages, but can be applied as 20 Mule Team Borax. Azomite appears to be a fine product, but I suspect you can achieve your pH goals at a lower cost with standard agronomic products.  Recall that boron is a micro nutrient, so the dose makes the poison - too much can be problematic.   In plants, iron is essential for photosynthesis and chlorophyll synthesis. Ferrous sulfate will provide iron without increasing soil pH. It too, is a micro nutrient. I have never applied ferrous sulfate to my garden soil. I apply boron (as 20 Mule Team Borax) at about the rate of 1 teaspoon per raised bed of 3x12 feet. I apply it by mixing the Borax with sand and sprinkling by salt shaker to the beds.   Sodium content is a concern, and I wonder how sodium go so high in your soil - have you used significant manures over the years?   You can have a good vegetable garden this season with soil pH at 6.0. Apply ag lime now or in the fall. If you submit additional soil samples to track your soil pH, collect the samples at the same time each year. Soil pH varies on an annual cycle, so you can't meaningfully compare pH results of samples collected at different times of the year.

responder: The Question Asker Replied March 28, 2023, 10:38 AM EDT
response: Heyy Linda,Thank you so much for the information and advice! This is our first year growing on this soil and there were some old raised beds we broke down and mixed into the ground soil and now were just growing out of the ground. The woman who owned the property before mentioned she had a hook up with a horse farm that gives her horse manure as compost for free. Maybe she was using that on her raised beds and it was increasing sodium levels?Is there anything I can do for sodium? Like any amendment I can add? Or do I just pray that the spring rains wash some of it out and test again in the fall?  Thank you again for your information. I appreicate the timely response as well. Best,Taylor On Mon, Mar 27, 2023, 10:01 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Linda J. Brewer, Senior Faculty Research Assistant II  Replied March 28, 2023, 11:54 AM EDT
response: Dear Taylor:  You have uncovered the key to the sodium overload. The best thing you can do is apply water and tincture of time.  Sodium is very soluble in water and will travel with precipitation/irrigation below the rooting zone. If you soil is sandy or silty, this will happen more rapidly than if it is clayey.