MIRAGE-Benchmark/MIRAGE huggingface dataset:
FUNGUS ON TRINITY PEAR TREE

Question: WE HAVE A TRINITY PEAR TREE IN OUR BACKYARD AND WE JUST NOTICED THAT IT HAS A FUNGUS ON IT.  CAN YOU CONFIRM WHAT THE FUNGUS IS AND HOW DO WE TREAT IT.
THANK YOU.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 28, 2024, 1:07 PM EDT
response: Hello,  This looks like pear rust.  How heavily infested is the tree? Are there junipers nearby?

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 28, 2024, 2:58 PM EDT
response: Hi.  The tree is minorly infested.  Attached are pictures of some evergreens we have in our yard.  I don’t know what type they are - can you please advise.  Also attached is a picture of our pear tree .

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 28, 2024, 8:37 PM EDT
response: Hi.  The tree is minorly infested.  Attached are pictures of some evergreens we have in our yard.  I don’t know what type they are - can you please advise.  Also attached is a picture of our pear tree .

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 30, 2024, 10:06 AM EDT
response: I asked if there was junipers since they are the alternate host for pear rust. Alternate hosts are required for the disease to complete its life cycle and sometimes we can help to manage a disease by eliminating alternate hosts nearby.  That is a northern white cedar, not a juniper, in your yard and therefore not posing any problems.  This fungus rarely causes significant damage to the host and usually doesn't require management.  Fungicides are only effective if applied before lesions appear, which would have been during the spring.  Weather conditions this season have been highly favorable for many fungal diseases with the wet spring, frequent rains and high humidity, so I'm not surprised that you're seeing a rust infection this season.  If the tree is only mildly infected and this has not been a problem in previous seasons, I do not see a need to manage this disease.  You could remove and destroy infected leaves or branches to reduce sources of inoculum in the future.  In terms of effectiveness of fungicide applications, it looks like the pear tree is quite large and adequate coverage would be difficult or impossible to achieve.  Good coverage is required for a fungicide to be most effective.

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 30, 2024, 5:40 PM EDT
response: Thank you very much for your informative response.  I greatly appreciate it.Have a good day!Jan ZurvalecSent from my iPad On Aug 30, 2024, at 10:06 AM, Ask Extension wrote:﻿
tough site ground cover ideas

Question: Hello,

We have a property with a lot of oaks and had a new septic tank installed in June.  The soil is hard, rocky, and shady, but it's now disturbed and I'd like to try planting a native ground cover on the stretches of bare soil.  Could you recommend how to deal with this issue?  Besides testing the soil, do I need to amend it?  I'm assuming it would be best to wait until mid-to-late fall to seed or plant.  I'm afraid if I do nothing it will just become a bed of weeds.
Thanks!

responder: Kevin K.  Replied August 29, 2024, 12:33 PM EDT
response: Thank you Elizabeth for your question to "Ask Extension".  I have a couple of good choices for ground cover in the area proposed in your photograph.  The first is kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi).  It is an evergreen woody plant with trailing branches 6-8 inches tall with white or pink flowers and reddish brown berries.  It does well in full sun to partial shade with dry to moist soil.  Kinnikinnick supports bees, beneficial insects, hummingbirds and native butterflies.  The other is coastal strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis).  It is a spreading ground cover to 9 inches.  It has white flowers and red fruit.  Coastal strawberry is very easy to grow and very vigorous.  It also supports bees, beneficial insects and butterflies.     I would also like to recommend a couple of non-native ground covers that I think you could consider for their colorful flowers and the fact that they are also fire resistant.  Aubrieta (Aubrieta deltoidea) is one of the earliest bloomers in spring. Often part of a rock garden, Aubretia is also known as false rockcress. With its little purple flowers and dainty leaves, Aubrieta will scramble over rocks and other inorganic items, covering them with color and distracting the eye. Aubrieta groundcover is also remarkably drought tolerant once establish.  The other ground cover is Basket-of-gold (Aurinia saxatilis).  It provides spring color with blooms in shades of gold to light yellow with gray-green foliage.  It should be pruned after flowering to maintain shape.  It is excellent in rock gardens or mass plantings.  From low water use to attracting butterflies to being deer-resistant it may be the ground cover for you.      The answer to soil amendments would come after the soil is tested.  The lab that did the testing should provide exact recommendation on which nutrients are deficient.      I hope that you find this information useful and as always Happy Gardening.

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 30, 2024, 7:28 PM EDT
response: Thank you, Kevin, for the detailed and thoughtful response to my question.  It's extremely helpful!Have a great weekend!Elizabeth  On Thursday, August 29, 2024 at 09:33:51 AM PDT, Ask Extension wrote:
Weed Erradication Advice

Question: What is the name of this weed?  Attached is photo showing a very invasive weed choking out pachysandra.  The weed has stems with five serrated leaves.  It produces long runners.  In the spring, it produces small yellow flowers.  I would like advice on eradicating the weed without damaging the pachysandra, if possible. If the weed regrows in the spring via seed, I can deal with that.  If, however, it regrows from the root system, I need help to get rid of it.  Thank you very much for any advice you can give.  Dave

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied August 28, 2024, 10:02 AM EDT
response: Hi,  It looks like a type of Potentilla (maybe creeping cinquefoil?)  Some Potentilla is native but can be considered a lawn or garden weed as it spreads by seed. Other species of Potentilla are non-native but very commonly found. They are perennials so will die back in the cold and return the following year. Since it is through out your pachysandra bed, if you wanted to remove it without chemicals, you will have to pull by hand or dig carefully to try to get all of the roots. It will most likely keep popping up but if you can just keeping pulling it, eventually it will exhaust the root system and it shouldn't return. It will take some persistence though.  Another option is to carefully paint on a systemic herbicide just on the leaves of the Potentilla to help kill the roots of the plants. You can use something like glyphosate or triclopyr and use a foam brush or small rag to dab it onto the leaves. Just be cautious, protect your skin by wearing gloves and washing hands afterwards. You may have to reapply a few times to be successful and be on the lookout for return plants next spring.  Let us know if you have further questions.  Emily

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 28, 2024, 2:57 PM EDT
response: Hi,Thank you for the response. Question:By "die back", are you saying if left alone the green part above ground will die off in Winter,  but the roots will propagate anew in the Spring?Thanks,  DaveSent from the all new AOL app for Android  On Wed, Aug 28, 2024 at 10:02 AM, Ask Extension wrote:

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied August 29, 2024, 11:01 AM EDT
response: Hello Dave,  Yes, herbaceous perennials that are not evergreen (Potentilla is not) lose their above-ground growth (the tissues die and wither) once it freezes in autumn/winter, and regrow from the roots in spring.  Miri
Plant ID

Question: Could you please identify this plant for me?

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 27, 2024, 11:04 AM EDT
response: Could you identify this perennial for me?

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied August 27, 2024, 4:40 PM EDT
response: Although we can't ID the plant to species, the flowers do suggest this is some type of Salvia (sage, though not the culinary type). Dozens of Salvia species can be grown in Maryland (some perennial, some annual or not cold-hardy enough to be reliably perennial), though based on its flower and leaf traits, plus bloom time, we can say that this is not a native species (which would be Salvia lyrata). Many species of sage bloom late in the year, though only some of them are bluish in color.  Miri

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 29, 2024, 7:04 AM EDT
response: Thank youSent from my iPhone On Aug 27, 2024, at 4:50 PM, Ask Extension wrote:﻿
We have unidentified flys

Question: I would like to send pictures of Flys that are taking over my street

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 27, 2024, 3:47 PM EDT
response: Unfortunately, I cannot identify these insects from the photos alone.  If you are able, please collect a few specimens in a ziplock or container and bring to your county extension office for identification and we can further assist you. You can find a list of county extension offices here: https://extension.osu.edu/lao#county  You can also try to take better close-up photos and resubmit them here if you are unable to bring samples in person.  Thank you,

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 29, 2024, 12:35 PM EDT
response: Thank you.  I will try to bring it in. I will also try to get a better picture  Thank you again  On Tue, Aug 27, 2024, 3:47 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Identify Weed

Question: Customer would like the attached weed identified.  She has a few of these in her vegetable garden.

responder: Thank you for your question!   Laura S.      Michigan State University Extension Advanced Master Gardener Volunteer You may also contact the toll free MSU Extension lawn and garden hotline at 1-888-678-3464 with your gardening questions or visit www.migarden.msu.edu for Smart Gardening resources. Replied August 27, 2024, 9:44 AM EDT
response: Hello Difficult to say which exact species with the leaves so crumpled. It appears to be one of the nightshades.  It is a very common weed, toxic to humans and animals. Hand pull and dispose in trash before seeds drop. On young plants broadleaf-selective herbicides such as 2,4-D + dicamba can help.  Note that a broadleaf herbicide can damage or kill desirable flowers, vegetables, and other garden plants near by; spot treating the weed is recommended if a herbicide is used. If a herbicide is used, always read and follow all precautions and directions.   https://weedguide.cfaes.osu.edu/singlerecord.asp?id=82  https://cals.cornell.edu/weed-science/weed-profiles/nightshades   https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/eastern-black-nightshade-solanum-ptycanthum

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 27, 2024, 9:50 AM EDT
response: Good Morning!     Thank you for the quick response.     Joanne   Joanne Silvia Office Manager MSU Extension – Saginaw County Ascension St. Mary’s Hospital Center of Hope 723 Emerson Street Saginaw, MI  48607 Phone: 989.907-6520 Email: <personal data hidden>          MSU Extension programs and materials are open to all without regard to race, color, national origin, gender, gender identity, religion, age, height, weight, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, marital status, family status, or veteran status.   Michigan State University occupies the ancestral, traditional and contemporary lands of the Anishinaabeg – Three Fires Confederacy of Ojibwe, Odawa and Potawatomi peoples. The university resides on land ceded in the 1819 Treaty of Saginaw.   From: ask=<personal data hidden> On Behalf Of Ask Extension Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2024 9:45 AM To: Silvia, Joanne  Subject: Re: Identify Weed (#0153058)
Spots on NY Ironweed

Question: Hello,

My NY Ironweed is covered with small yellow spots.  They do not scrape off.  What happened to it?  It is crowded in its current location.  I plan to rearrange the bed to give it more room.

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied August 27, 2024, 2:55 PM EDT
response: Hi,  This looks like some rust on the leaves and a little powdery mildew. Both shouldn't be an overall harm to the plant enough to cause it to die. Ironweed is an important native pollinator plant so we wouldn't recommend treating it with anything. Both of those ailments would require a fungicide and fungicides can be harmful to pollinators as well as disrupting beneficial soil microbes after long term use. They need to be applied before the conditions start and at regular intervals if its not raining to help prevent infection and they are often not 100% effective. We would just recommend waiting for a killing frost then cleaning up the old stems and leaf debris to help mitigate overwintering fungal spores in the soil and hopefully next year they won't be as infected.  Due to weather, it can vary year to year as well. Some years you may see heavier rust than others.  Emily

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 28, 2024, 11:59 AM EDT
response: Thank you!   Am I doing something wrong to cause this to happen?   Andrea

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied August 28, 2024, 12:25 PM EDT
response: No! They are native fungi that travel easily in the wind. Some years with heat and humidity may be worse than others. It looks like your plants are getting enough air circulation and enough sun so there shouldn't be a need to change locations. Its just something that may happen from time to time and we tend to notice these ailments more so when they are in our garden settings even though it is common in wild settings as well.  -Emily
Large Green Caterpillar

Question: Could you please help me identify this caterpillar? Found on a lilac bush in Annapolis, Maryland on August 26.

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied August 27, 2024, 2:46 PM EDT
response: Hi,  What a beauty! This looks like a Rustic Sphinx Moth caterpillar!   It looks like they have many host plants too- according to BugGuide:  Many larval hosts in several plants families:Asteraceae - common sunflower (Helianthus annuus)Bignoniaceae - bignonia (Bignonia), desert willow (Chilopsis linearis), Cape honeysuckle (Tecoma capensis)Boraginaceae - knockaway (Ethretia anacua), heliotrope (Heliotropium) Bahama Strongbark (Bourreria succulenta)Lamiaceae - forked bluecurls (Trichostema dichotomum)Lythraceae - crapemyrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)Oleaceae - jasmine (Jasminum), ash (Fraxinus), white fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus), privet (Ligustrum), common lilac (Syringa vulgaris)Verbenaceae - American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana), lantana (Lantana camara), bushy lippie (Lippia alba) It is native and beneficial! Emily

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 27, 2024, 3:47 PM EDT
response: Thank you so much! On Tuesday, August 27, 2024, 3:11 PM, Ask Extension wrote:

responder: Answered by the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC), University of Maryland Extension. For timely gardening information and tips, subscribe to our Maryland Grows blog and quarterly newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Replied August 27, 2024, 3:59 PM EDT
response: You're welcome!
Spruce pest/disease

Question: I have spruce ( I cannot remember if it is the Norway or Blue, but it looks like Blue from the photo) that have some deformities and die-off at the end of some branches. Can you please help to identify and suggest possible treatments? Oceana county.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 28, 2024, 9:32 AM EDT
response: Hi Tom, thanks for the question. What you are seeing is the work of Cooley Spruce Gall Adelgid.  Control of these pests is most often controlled through well timed use of horticultural oil. Check out the following links: Landscape: Cooley Spruce Gall Adelgid | Center for Agriculture, Food, and the Environment at UMass Amherst Spruce Gall Adelgids | Integrated Pest Management (uconn.edu) InsectsandMites_CooleySpruceGallAdelgid.pdf (msu.edu) Cooley Spruce Galls (colostate.edu) I hope this helps.

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 30, 2024, 12:44 PM EDT
response: Plant diseases:  Hello Julie and Extension.  Thank you for your reply. I appreciate it.  This is a degraded five acre site that I purchased four years ago. Existing tree species:  White Pine (~12-15’)  Douglas Fir (~20+’)  Red Pine (mature)  Jack Pine (seedlings and one ~10’)  Norway (?) Spruce (one only, 5’)  Blue Spruce  (one only, 5’)  Choke Cherry (mature)Planted by me:  White Pine   Red Pine   Jack Pine   Norway Spruce   Concolor Fir   Green Giant Arborvitae   3x Locust (2.5” dia.)  American Larch  Tulip Poplar  Sugar and Red Maples  Various fruit trees     It seems like my trees are suffering from multiple pests at this site. An arborist identified White  Pine Weevil on my White Pines and I identified Swiss Needlecast on my Douglas Fir two years ago. I imagine that the weevil may be infesting other species.  I have treated the weevil with pyrethrum (not pyrethroid) and the Needlecast with Actinovate the past two Springs.  The 10’ Jack Pine showed signs of dieback last Fall and is now totally brown.   On my site visit last week I noticed the damage to the Jack pine and Blue Spruce. You have identified these pests as Zimmerman Pine Moth and Cooley Spruce Gall Adelgid respectively. Thank you. Obviously I have my work cut out for me.   My treatment plan is something like the following:Physically remove any visual signs of disease.Next Spring treat all Pine, Spruce and Fir with a pyrethroid.Continue to treat Doug Fir with Actinovate (this has been vey effective as I have seen no signs of the Needlecast since application has begun).       Can you please comment on the current situation and my proposed treatments?  Thank you again.Regards, Tom Sent from my iPad On Aug 28, 2024, at 08:32, Ask Extension wrote:Cooley Spruce Gall Adelgid

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied September 04, 2024, 9:14 AM EDT
response: HI again, As long as you get the timing right and verify that you are using the appropriate pesticides you plant looks good. Be sure to read and follow the label.  The use of Actinovate for Swiss needle cast is off-label.  There may be some reason for this.  You may want to contact the manufacturer to clarify if this is a violation of the label. The label is the Law.
Azalea suffering

Question: We have 2 established northern lights azaleas. The leaves are turning brown and looking withered. I think I see new leave buds. Not sure. I'm guessing too much rain. We've had fungus on our zinnias. We sprayed and they are doing better. I hate usinh chemical treatments. Sigh..

responder: Evelyn Locke, MN Master Gardener, Tree Care Advisor, Volunteer    Replied August 26, 2024, 7:16 PM EDT
response: Azaleas do not do well in hot and humid weather. Check the soil moisture before watering. It should be moist but not soggy.   Cooler weather is coming soon and it should perk up. Next year’s leaves are being made now so seeing them is good. The azalea may have some powdery mildew. Leaves will be falling shortly and cleaning up as many of the leaves as you can will be important for preventing disease next year. All the rain this year has really promoted fungal disease.  https://extension.psu.edu/azalea-and-rhododendron-diseases

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 27, 2024, 2:44 PM EDT
response: Thank you. On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 6:16 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

responder: Evelyn Locke, MN Master Gardener, Tree Care Advisor, Volunteer    Replied August 28, 2024, 7:06 AM EDT
response: Your welcome, happy gardening.

responder: Evelyn Locke, MN Master Gardener, Tree Care Advisor, Volunteer    Replied August 28, 2024, 7:07 AM EDT
response: You’re welcome, happy gardening.
Yellow Leaves

Question: My tomato plant’s leaves are turning yellow from the bottom up.  This started when we started getting a lot of rain.  What is causing this and how can I stop it?

My cucumber plant’s leaves are also turning yellow, and the plants are dying.  This also started when the rain increased.  It looks like powedery mildew.  What is causing this and how can I stop it? I tried using a solution of non-chlorinated water, neem oil, baking soda and organic dish detergent.  But this has not stopped.

Pictures are attached and I follow organic gardening methods.

responder: An Ask Extension Expert Replied August 27, 2024, 1:48 PM EDT
response: Hello Jackie, Thanks for writing in and sending us your photos. On the whole, your plants look quite healthy even though the leaves are now yellowing and dropping off. The yellowing of your tomato and cucumber plant leaves from the bottom up, which started after an increase in rain, could be due to a few different factors. For the tomato plant, it might be chlorosis, which is a condition where the plant is not getting enough nutrients, specifically nitrogen or potassium. This can lead to yellowing of the leaves, particularly the older ones. For the cucumber plant, it could be a fungal disease such as powdery mildew, which thrives in high humidity and can cause yellowing and eventual death of the leaves [1]. To address these issues, you can try the following: 1. For the tomato plant, ensure that it is getting adequate nutrients, especially nitrogen and potassium. You can do a soil test to determine if there is a deficiency and adjust your fertilization accordingly. If you suspect a disease, you may need to apply a fungicide, but ensure it is organic and safe for organic gardening practices. 2. For the cucumber plant, improving air circulation can help prevent powdery mildew. You can prune the plants to allow more air to circulate around the leaves. Also, consider using a fungicide that is approved for organic gardening, but make sure to follow the label instructions carefully. Learn More:  [1]. http://extension.msstate.edu/publications/tomato-troubles-common-problems-tomatoes Good luck. Let us know what happens. Lesley for DC Master Gardeners

responder: The Question Asker Replied August 27, 2024, 4:09 PM EDT
response: Thank you for your reply.  I did two soil tests before planting this year: a nutrient test and a soil biology test.   I lacked nitrogen and have been adding nitrogen throughout the growing season.  I'll add some potassium. Jackie Gill