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Rencontre de saveurs entre l'Espagne et le Japon – Nippon.com
Par bonite Sur bonite goût 3 mois ago 4 Lire la suite Ajouter un commentaire
Au Japon, les femmes offrent des chocolats aux hommes pour la Saint Valentin le 14 février. C’est une coutume originale du pays qui est passée dans les mœurs aux alentours des années 1970. A ce moment de l’année, les ventes de chocolats de luxe plafonnent et l’on voit récemment de plus en plus de femmes s’acheter des chocolats de marque pour se récompenser elles-mêmes. Jusqu’à présent, ces friandises étaient principalement françaises ou belges mais les chocolats espagnols sont en train de s’acquérir la faveur du public japonais.
A l’origine le chocolat provient de Mésoamérique (qui désigne actuellement le Mexique et la partie nord-ouest de l’Amérique centrale, et correspond à une zone culturelle de l’antiquité). Cortès, après avoir conquis le royaume aztèque, ramène en Espagne le cacao qui se propage ensuite dans toute l’Europe.
Les produits espagnols sont extrêmement variés et l’on y trouve des chocolats qui moussent en bouche et des chocolats au curry, au safran, à la truffe noire et à la tequila. Récemment, des saveurs typiquement japonaises, comme la sauce soja et jusqu’au raifort wasabi ont été intégrées à ces friandises.
La rencontre des Espagnols avec les saveurs japonaises pour la création de nouveaux produits ne se limite pas au domaine du chocolat. Le grand chef Ferran Adria i Acosta, patron du restaurant El Bulli, qui a une influence considérable sur les cuisiniers et les gourmets du monde entier, a trouvé une source d’inspiration dans des ingrédients comme les citrons yuzu , l’arrow-root kuzu et les gâteaux en forme de personnages, appelés ningyô-yaki , qui sont la spécialité de Tokyo, lors de son voyage dans l’Archipel. Après avoir ramené ces produits chez lui, il intègre les techniques culinaires nippones, les ingrédients du Japon, le papier japonais washi , et crée des menus permettant de les déguster pleinement avec les sens de la vue, de l’odeur et du toucher (dans la bouche). Il a également présenté, au mois de juillet l’an dernier avec la collaboration d’un coordinateur alimentaire japonais, des produits réalisés avec des ingrédients du Tôhoku, dont un cornet glacé au marc de saké du département d’Iwate et des marrons glacés à l’ail noir du département d’Aomori.
Dans ses cuisines, se trouvent des apprentis venus du monde entier. Plus qu’une cuisine, c’est un laboratoire scientifique qui a même fait l’objet d’un documentaire réalisé par le cinéaste allemand, Gereon Wetzel (El Bulli : Cooking in Progress ). Les tentatives de ce chef hors du commun sont présentées dans tous les pays et de nouveaux menus s’inspirant de la cuisine japonaise sont ainsi présentés un peu partout dans le monde.
Ferran Adria déclare que la sensibilité et la capacité de découvrir le goût ne peuvent pas s’apprendre. En d’autres termes, on ne peut pas créer de bonnes choses si le sens du goût n’est pas développé. A l’inverse, les ingrédients véritablement nouveaux sont acceptés et se propagent parmi ceux dont le sens du goût est arrivé à pleine maturité.
Aujourd’hui comme hier, les Espagnols ont audacieusement relevé le défi des saveurs inconnues et les ont propagé dans le monde. Le violoncelliste espagnol de renommée internationale Pablo Casals a déclaré qu’une « grande musique intégrant les passions et les goûts d’une région était à même de dépasser les frontières et avait valeur d’être écoutée dans le monde entier. » Et ceci s’applique également aux saveurs.
La cuisine japonaise intègre la saveur dite umami qui se trouve dans le bouillon de base dashi , réalisé à partir d’ingrédients comme les algues kombu , les copeaux de bonite séchée katsuobushi ou les champignons shiitake . Les Japonais ont très probablement, par tradition, la sensibilité et la capacité de reconnaître le goût. Et il n’y a vraiment rien à redire si, sans se restreindre aux sushi et au sukiyaki , la délicatesse de la cuisine japonaise qui se déguste avec la sensibilité, se propage encore plus dans le monde grâce à tous ceux qui possèdent cette subtile finesse du goût. (31 janvier 2012).
Espagne 					 							 gastronomie 					 							 gâteau
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