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Boire le Japon : nos meilleures adresses pour un accord mets-sakés … – Le Figaro
Par bonite Sur bonite recette 3 mois ago 4 Lire la suite Ajouter un commentaire
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C’est d’abord le décor devant lequel on se pâme en poussant les portes du 16 rue Debelleyme, discrète et sinueuse ruelle nichée en plein cœur du Marais. Un hôtel particulier pensé par le designer et restaurateur de génie Shinichiro Ogata, dont les adresses – tokyoïtes et autres – se révèlent à chaque fois de véritable bijoux de sobriété et de raffinement. Dès les premières secondes, de jour comme de nuit, tout n’est que contrastes et géométrie, jeux d’ombres et de lumières se reflétant sur un sol de tomette noire, des portes cuivrées, et des murs recouverts d’une fine couche de plâtre shikkui, ce mélange de chaux et de poussière de coquilles d’œufs. A l’étage, il faudra suivre le prolongement d’un bar doucement tamisé pour s’attabler enfin au comptoir du restaurant, savant assemblage de béton et de bois massif.
» À LIRE AUSSI :  Notre sélection des cinq meilleurs sakés français notés par le Figaro Vin
Commence alors une chorégraphie délicate et millimétrée, au cours de laquelle s’enchaînent sans effusion des plats et breuvages parfaitement accordés. En guise d’effervescent préliminaire, un saké pétillant de la préfecture de Yamanashi, aux douces notes lactiques, d’agrumes frais et de fruits blancs, qui vous plonge dans un état proche de la méditation. Arrive ensuite une fine portion d’anguille glacée à la sauce soja, crudités et gelée de tosazu – un vinaigre réalisé à base de vinaigre de riz et de dashi, bouillon de kombu et copeaux de bonite séchée. En accord, un saké Masumi AKA (rouge) de type Junmai Yamahai originaire de la préfecture de Nagano. En bouche, un crémeux et une profondeur décadentes, qui épousent le gras du subtil anguillidé sans en recouvrir la moindre aspérité. A la suite d’une si convaincante entrée en matière, c’est au tour du premier plat de se glisser sans un bruit sur le comptoir, sous la forme d’une huître pochée au daikon, pissenlits et bouillon dashi. Dans le verre, une cuvée maison Watatsumi de la préfecture d’Ishikawa, située au centre-nord de l'île de Honshū, face à la mer. Un breuvage désarmant de simplicité, à l’élégance saline, qui vient prolonger ce qui nous apparaît alors, en profane que nous sommes, comme un véritable sans faute.
Le deuxième plat sera l’occasion de tremper ses lèvres dans la seconde cuvée maison Yamatsumi, qui accompagne ici un doucereux mijoté de barbue et purée de navet… Sans doute la quintessence de ce concept si étranger à nos yeux d’umami, cette cinquième saveur signifiant littéralement «essence de délice», et qui trouve ici sa plus parfaite expression. Enfin, après de fort jolies cérémonies dont nous ne divulguerons pas le détail dans ces lignes afin de conserver un peu de mystère, arrive une odorante pomme cuite au four et une glace au thé Kocha, dont la rencontre produit dans le creux de la langue un choc thermique se suffisant à lui-même, mais qu’on aura pu s’empêcher de faire durer par la caresse brûlante d’un divin Umeshu, cette liqueur de prune qui donne ici la sensation d’entrer dans les profondeurs d’une amande. Viendront clore les agapes de ravissants mochis joufflus, à croquer délicatement du bout des incisives entre deux gorgées de thé vert, avant de ressortir marcher dans les rues du 3ème arrondissement, encore ému de la sensation d’avoir vraiment été au Japon…
Ogata
16 rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris.
Déjeuner 60-70€
Dîner 120-170€
La rédaction vous conseille :
»   Maryam Masure, portrait d’une ambassadrice du saké
»  20 mots pour comprendre le saké
»  L'art de brasser le saké
Dans son restaurant Ursus, à Tignes, le chef étoilé Clément Bouvier traduit au piano l’œuvre de l’artiste contemporain Jeppe Hein. Une rencontre détonnante, sous la houlette de la maison Ruinart.
Pour répondre à la vivacité du champagne Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2010, le chef doublement étoilé Phillippe Mille revisite le lobster roll version Saint-Jacques.
Au Brut Carte Jaune de Veuve Clicquot, Jean Imbert associe le Croque New Look. Hommage à la première collection iconique de la maison Dior, en 1947.
Le plus grand producteur de vin indien, Sula Vineyards, se lance sur le marché boursier, pariant sur la diversification des goûts d'une classe moyenne urbaine en plein essor, dans un pays qui privilégie depuis longtemps les spiritueux.
Dans le climat extrême de la Ribera del Duero naît l'un des vins les plus légendaires d’Espagne : l’Unico du domaine Vega Sicilia. Il incarne un sublime tempranillo intemporel et nuancé.
À l’heure où les femmes tentent de se libérer de leur voile en Iran, l’histoire de Masrour Makaremi prend une toute autre résonnance. Passionné de vin, le jeune homme d’origine iranienne entend recréer le vin perse… à Bergerac dans un premier temps.
Découvrez les vins de France
en parcourant ses régions viticoles
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