The Press. — London, England, 1856-10-04 00:00:00

OCTOBER 4, 1856. ittraturt. A Residence in Tasmania ; with a Descriptive Tour through the Island. By Captain H. Butler Stoney. London : Smith and Elder. THE same kind of interest which belongs to biography is attached to the history of colo nial settlements. At first they have always great difficulties to encounter. Their early years are spent in contending with the hos tility of the native inhabitants, in battling with the wildness of nature, or in suffering from the hardships which the pioneers of colonisation have invariably to contend with. Sometimes the infant colony is all but ruined by premature speculation, and sometimes all but starved by famine through failure of the first efforts of cultivators. But these first perils overcome, the colony advances, not in deed with equal steps, or without occasional retrocession, but still with vigour ; the most favorable soils are purchased or rented ; and that strong desire of landed property which seems instinctive in the Anglo-Saxon race, becomes the means of spreading cultivation far beyond the limits which would suffice for the wants of the settlers. A general view of the progress of our co lonisation would present us with astonish ing results. Canada and Australia are each year absorbing a largo portion of the popula tion and capital of Great Britain, and yet the parent country thrives on the emigration, and is rapidly paid back what she yields in the spread of commerce and the increase of colo nial production. The decline in the West Indies, though on many accounts to be re gretted, is more than made up to us by the growth of comparatively new settlements, for in the West Indies our colonisation, as the result has proved, was purely artificial. There was no resident proprietary, and no natural labour. Our establishments and estates there were little more than manufactories. British enterprise and society struck no deep roots in the soil. In Canada and Australia, on the contrary, it is the Anglo-Saxon race which is spreading, with all its natural habitudes and all its social forms. There is a striking difference in one respect between the new settlements formed in the United States and those established in British colonies. In the former the commer cial element largely prevails. Society collects in towns, but does not root itself in the land. In the latter, a weighty landed proprie tary soon gains ground, and though from its nature not capable of very rapid expansion, yet makes continual way. From this circum stance, it may be anticipated that the social fabric in our colonies will be firmly established, and that the connection with the mother country will long prevail. In this pleasant book by Captain Stoney there are evidences that the aristocratic element in Tasmania is becoming a marked feature in its society. The landed properties of several settlers are immense. In the ex cursions described by the author we read con tinually of large estates, many of them evi dently formed with wise forethought for the future rather than with regard to the imme diate present. The proprietors, notwithstand ing the youth of the colony, are wealthy. Thus we read that Captain Horton, a " gentle "man possessed of very considerable pro " perty," has " built at a very large outlay a "very fine college, endowed by him in con " Junction with the Government, for the pur pose of educating youth, and conferring " degrees in every p ro f ess i on ." Captain Hor ton s residence is on the road to Launceston, and we read : In this neighbourhood also is the residence of Philip Smith, Esq., another large landed proprietor. We need not enter upon a detailed account of Mona Vale, the mag nificent properly of Mr. Komode, it having been so ably described in Colonel Mundy's work. Again, in the neighbourhood of Launceston The property of the Rev. Mr. Raibey, a very enterpris ing gentleman of large property in the colony. On the opposite b un k o f the river is the extensive property of the Landon family, known as the Meander Rise, and con tinuing upwards of eight thousand acres. THE PRESS. In the same neighbourhood is the residence of Mr. Dry, late Speaker of the House of Assembly. The munificence of these landed potentates may be judged by his liberality in endowing a church:— Mr. Dry has given over to the trustees a portion of land for a church, and glebe, etc.; also the annual sum of 4001. as endowment. The neighbouring gentlemen having added their contributions, this will be the best supported parish in Tasmania, Evidently the landed gentry class is firmly fixing itself in the soil of Tasmania ; and hence, though its growth may not be rapid, its security will be assured, and it will long con tinue to present peculiar advantages to the settler. A fine estate is possessed in this island by one who is represented as the largest lauded proprietor in the world. The writer is describing the environs of what, formerly known as Hobart Town (after the name of Lord Hobart, Secretary to the Colonies in 1811), is now termed the City of Hobarton : On the right, after you pass these, is the residence of, probably, the largest landed proprietor in the world, ➢lr. W. J. T. Clarke. This gentleman, some years ago, having amassed con siderable wealth in cattle dealing and sheep runs, finding an old Government proclamation to the effect that any one paying down 20,0001. should be entitled to a special survey of 20,000 acres of any part of Australia he chose to fix upon, went to the Victoria Government, referred to the authority, which there was no gainsaying, and paid down his 20,0001. Immediately the survey was ordered ; which he took care should comprise the richest tracts of the colony, and as near as he could obtain it between the city of Melbourne and Geelong. Besides this extensive pro perty he is the owner of several sheep runs and estates here ; and some of the most productive land in Tasmania also belcngs to him. Yet, strange to say, the house at which he principally resides is not to be compared to the cottage of the farmer renting his 100 acres ; uor is his household or establishment in better style—accumulation being his only idea : this is fully borne out by his general character and appearance. Mr. Clarke, from the frugality of his living, does not appear to be popular. But the author is quite mistaken in supposing that such men are the ruin of an infant colony. On the contrary, by accumulating large pro perties they very much promote the solidity and future fortune of colonial society. The neighbourhood of Hobarton, from its fine hays, beautiful streams, splendid moun tains, and inland lakes, is enchanting. In a valley by the seacoast reside the sole sur vivors of the aboriginal inhabitants : Occup3ing comparatively low ground, the valley is beau tiful; but if this spot were a hundredfold more pre possessing than nature has already made it, its attractions would scarcely be observed, the attention being forcibly drawn to an object which, on account of its inmates, is peculiarly interesting. How, indeed, should it be other wise, when we reflect that within the walls of that low cottage beneath as are all that now remains of a once formidable nation ; who, in a thirty years' war with our countrymen, were either sent into captivity or the grave— they are but now sixteen in number. The glen in which they live is called, from the little inlet adjacent, Oyster Cove, a small arm of D'Entrecasteaux's Channel ; a few acres of which land have been cleared for them along the banks of a small river that passes by their dwelling. Dr. Milligan is the inspector of the station, and constantly visits them. All their wants are supplied from Govern ment funds, which annually averages 1,00 W., including the salaries of storekeeper, medical officer, and chaplain. The Derwent is a beautiful river, abounding in varied and delightful scenery. Lake St. Clair, near Marlborough, must, by the author's account, be one of the fairest localities in the world :-- The next object we notice is a beautiful bridge across the river. The police-station, a glimpse of which we caught when on the rise before entering Marlborough, is now suf ficiently near for our inspection ; it consists of a very pretty and substantial stone cottage, which affords excellent ac commodation for the traveller. After having passed by this, and crossed the Nive, the eye rests upon immense plains with but few trees, whilst innumerable herds of cattle bring to mind the vast prairies of America. Several small rivers intersect tho land, the two principal being the Clarence and Travellers' Rest, over which temporary bridges are erected for the purpose of passing stock. The owners of the stations by which we are surrounded are Henri(' Nicholas, W. J. T. Clarke, and T. Standfield, Esqs. Nothing worthy of remark occurs till we arrive at Lake St. Clair, the entrance to which does not partake of the general beauty of the scenery around, and its monotony causes a feeling of disappointment to arise in the mind of the traveller. But soon these fancies are dispelled, when, having un moored the beautiful gig placed there by private subscrip tioa, and pulling far out into the centre of the lake, the hands unconsciously relax their grasp of the oars, and the tourist gazes around on the beautiful scenery that meets his enraptured eye. The snow-white beach lining the borders of the lake is adorned by native shrubs, and strewn with shells and pebbles of every description : the" waratah," mingling the brilliant red of its blossoms with a thousand 951 different shades of foliage, is more entrancing to the eye than words can well express. Flowing into the lake on the upper side is the river Narcissus, which, sweeping again outward from the other extremity, forms the source of the Derwent. The myrtle, cabbage•palm, fern•tree, tea•tree, and pepper•tree, are but a few of those which grow so luxuriantly in this soil : these, together with the numerous spurs of the mountain that jut out on the lake, covered with every description of native shrubs, lay reflected in the crystal mirror ; the lofty ranges of Mount Ida, Mount Olympus, and Cie Seven Apostles, at whose immediate base the lake is situated, looking grand in their towering majesty. The numerous attempts which have been made to sound the depth of Lake St. Clair have, as yet, ever proved fruitless. Its length is generally estimated at fifteen miles, and it ex tends from two to four miles in breadth. The desolate aspect of the country fur the last eighteen miles renders the lovely appearance of this noble sheet of water, sur. rounded by every beauty the hand of nature can plant, still more enthralling ; and the stranger feels amply repaid for all the discomforts of his journey, when in the midst_of a scene upon which he cannot but gaze in ecstasy. Before we close our description of this part of the country we would observe that there is another road, besides that we have just passed over, leading to Lake St. Clair—one cut by private enterprise, and possessing the advantage of being ten miles shorter • but as it c►.wmence3 from, and runs the whole way through, the large estates of T. L. Gellibrand, Esq., it is not generally used, being thought private. Compared with the large sums expended upon that made by Government, its cost has been but some few pounds ; which its usefulness has many times repaid. Mr. Gellibrand's estate of Cleveland is about five miles from the Ouse-bridge, along a fatiguing sandy soil. The house is prettily situated on an eminence overlooking the river Dee, which flows along the bottom of the extensive fruit•garden adjoining. Here, again, we find a great number of tenants, whose chief characteristics are industry and firm attachment to the small portion of ground forming their only home. And as our eye glances over the sweetly pretty view from the house, of the river winding gracefully through the little shrubs which grow near the waterside, we cannot fail to notice that great attention is paid to irrigation—all the meadows looking as though covered with green velvet : so truly refreshing 10 the eye is the beautiful English grass. About two miles from here, we approach the beautiful cataract of the Derwent; which, after dashing and tossing into a thousand different streamlets, unites into one body of water, and flows precipitously between the vast mass of solid rock which, forsome considerable distance, lines its course. The force with which it falls, more especially in winter, is very great—greeting the ear some time before this truly pleasing scene meets the eye ; and not only rendering the voice perfectly inaudible when standing on the rocks, but filling the heart with a feeling almost amounting to awe, as the gazer watches with intense interest the waters bursting in their sparkling grandeur. Mr. Gellibrand is evidently another of tho " large landed proprietors" so numerous in this island. Their presence is felt in the high social tone pervading the country : Society in Hobarton and Tasmania generally has, from the very commencement of the colony, possessed, with some drawbacks, many great advantages: Originally a penal settlement, the principal inhabitants long continued to he exclusively officers of Government ; and when free immi gration was allowed, the majority of those who availed themselves of the privilege were retired officers from the army and navy, with a few capitalists, and a sprinkling of the mercantile classes from Leeds, Liverpool, and London; who thereby secured to themselves broad acres in freehold of the richest land in the finest climate of the world. It thus happened that the colonists, being men who had held authority in their former positions in life, and filled high places in society, felt it a duty incumbent on them to exert a control over their own actions and conduct, and maintain an elevated tone of manner, so as to avoid even the appearance of an evil considered —as Lord Stanley avowed in the House—likely to accrue from the cause above alluded to. The presence also of a highly educated class, from the earliest period of the colony. contributed to this beneficial influence ; and there can be no question, that, in addition to her beautiful climate and picturesque scenery, Tasmania can boast of as agreeable and cultivated society as can be found in the southern hemisphere Viewing, therefore, the society of Hobarton in all its lights and shades, whilst we see somewhat to condemn, we find much to admire. The Anglo-Saxon race is everywhere energetic, enterprising, and improving. We have amongst us the germs of virtue and true nobleness. A spirit of emulation is rife amongst us. Our merchants assume a place in Europe not dreamt of before ; goodly ships daily visit our ports ; our land fast increases in value ; the in dustrious and sober earn much more than a competence ; and, within the last year, a fresh impetus has been given to trade of every kind. Still it is the imperative duty of every member of our society to labour in the great work for its advancement; and, proud as they well may be of their adopted country, to assist each other in the endeavour to make all contented and happy : being assured, that to accomplish this end, we have only our own hearts to rule —the principle being the all•enduring, never•failing one of charity and peace. _ _ . . Wild cattle hunting is one of the sports of the colony, and a spirited descriptien of such hunting is given in the seventeenth chapter. The breed of sheep is excellent, and contri butes greatly to the wealth of the island. At the commencement of the shearing, there is a sharp contest between the owner and the shearers : The season for shearing is from the middle of October o the end of March ; the time occupied cen <KOWA farms of