What is Vegan Leather? All You Need to Know About Vegan ...

What is Vegan Leather?
Vegan leather, also known as faux leather, has gained significant popularity in recent years as a sustainable and ethical alternative to traditional animal-based leather. As the demand for eco-friendly and cruelty-free fashion and accessories grows, vegan leather has emerged as a viable option for those seeking stylish and conscious choices. This comprehensive guide aims to provide a deep understanding of vegan leather, its manufacturing processes, environmental impact, and its wide-ranging applications.
What is Vegan Leather?
Vegan leather refers to a synthetic material designed to mimic the look, feel, and durability of traditional animal-based leather. Unlike animal leather, vegan leather is created without the use of animal hides, making it a cruelty-free and ethical alternative. Vegan leather can be made from various materials, including synthetic polymers such as polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC), as well as plant-based materials like cork, pineapple fibres, corn, apple peels, and mushrooms.
Manufacturing Processes of Vegan Leather
The manufacturing processes of vegan leather can vary depending on the type of material used. Synthetic vegan leather, such as PU and PVC, is typically created through a combination of chemical treatments, coating, and bonding of layers. Plant-based vegan leather involves the extraction of fibres from sustainable sources, followed by a processing phase that transforms these raw materials into a usable fabric. Innovative techniques such as 3D printing and biofabrication are also being explored to create vegan leather materials.
Types of Vegan Leather
Polyurethane (PU) Leather: PU leather is a common type of synthetic vegan leather. It is created by coating a fabric base, such as polyester, with a layer of polyurethane. PU leather offers a leather-like texture and appearance, and it can be manufactured to resemble various animal leathers, such as smooth grain, suede, or patent finishes. It is often used in clothing, handbags, footwear, and upholstery.
Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) Leather: PVC leather, also known as vinyl leather, is another synthetic vegan leather option. It is made by applying a layer of PVC to a fabric base. PVC leather is known for its durability, water resistance, and affordability. However, the production and disposal of PVC-based materials raises environmental concerns due to the release of toxic chemicals during manufacturing and the difficulty of recycling.
PVC is a material derived from salt and oil. The electrolysis of saltwater produces chlorine, which is combined with ethylene (obtained from oil). PVC is one of the most toxic plastics produced on Earth. In addition to containing cadmium, mercury, chlorine and lead, PVC also releases dioxins.
Dioxins are a group of chemically related compounds that are persistent environmental pollutants (POPs). They can cause problems with reproduction, development, and the immune system. They can also disrupt hormones and lead to cancer. As persistent environmental pollutants (POPs), dioxins can remain in the environment for many years. In addition, some additives to PVC can be toxic to the consumer.
Conscious fashion brands no longer use PVC. Stella McCartney ceased the use of all PVC plastics in 2010 and was instrumental in bringing about change. By 2016, all Kering brands (who at that time had a stake in the brand, had stopped using PVC (1). This synthetic material is cheap, so many companies still use it.
Cork leather: Made from the bark of the cork oak tree, cork leather is lightweight, water-resistant, and has a unique texture. The cork industry is sustainable and environmentally friendly. Cork oak trees are not harmed during the harvesting of their bark, and they require very little water to grow. The cork bark is regenerative too so the cork can be harvested from the same tree every nine years. Cork leather is a versatile material used to create various fashion items including bags and purses to shoes and belts. Unlike animal leather, the process to make cork leather is completely chemical free.
Corn leather: Created from the oil that is extracted from field corn, a non-food grade corn that is not used as a food crop. The oil is used to produce a strong base fabric before being combined with Polyurethane (PU) to create a highly durable, low impact material. Corn leather features heavily in the Watson & Wolfe collection. There are many different textures and finishes, each suitable for different applications.
Piñatex: Derived from pineapple leaves, Piñatex offers a leather-like texture and is used in bags, shoes, and accessories. Piñatex is created by felting the long cellulose fibres from pineapple leaves to create a non-woven substrate. It is composed of a mixture of these pineapple fibres, PLA (Polylactic acid), and petroleum-based resins. As with all the other bio-based materials Piñatex is not biodegradable but it is made without any of the toxic chemicals and heavy metals used in animal leather production.
Apple leather: Created by extracting the cellulose from apple peels and cores discarded by the food industry and blending them with polymers. The result is a durable, sustainable leather-like material that can be used to make clothing, accessories, and other items. In the process to make Apple leather, the cores and skins are puréed and dehydrated until almost all the moisture has gone. The dried purée turns into a flexible, leathery sheet which is combined with PU to create the final material. Apple leather is an innovative and sustainable alternative.
Mushroom leather: Developed through the cultivation of mycelium, the vegetative part of a fungus. Mycelium can be grown in almost any kind of agriculture waste. It is highly sustainable because it can be made and treated without using polluting substances. At the end of its life, mushroom leather is completely biodegradable and compostable. It is extremely light-weight and flexible too, which makes it effective for a wide range of products.
Cactus leather: The process for making the award-winning Cactus leather material involves using the young leaves of the prickly pear cactus. These leaves are harvested from organically grown cactus plants which require very little water to grow. They are cleaned, mashed, and left in the sun to dry for three days before being processed into the final material.
A belt and wallet made with corn leather - Watson & Wolfe
Environmental Impact of Vegan Leather
Reduction of Animal Cruelty: One of the primary advantages of vegan leather is its avoidance of animal cruelty associated with traditional leather production. Vegan leather offers an ethical alternative for those who choose to abstain from using animal products.
Reduced Environmental Footprint: Vegan leather production generally has a lower environmental impact compared to traditional leather. The use of synthetic materials and plant-based alternatives reduces the reliance on animal agriculture, land use, water consumption, and greenhouse gas emissions associated with traditional leather production.
The Amazon rainforest, in Brazil, is home to over 1 million Indigenous people, protectors of one of the most biodiverse places on earth. Brazil also has the largest cattle herd in the world with over 215 million animals. 80% of bovine leather from Brazil is exported, accounting for $1.1 billion of revenue in 2020. However, satellite data links one the biggest exporters of leather in Brazil to 200K acres of deforestation in the Amazon in the last two years (fact at 2021). Scientists predict that the loss of just 4% more rainforest in the Amazon will cause a 'tipping point' and irreversible global consequences.
Recycling and End-of-Life Considerations: While synthetic vegan leather presents challenges in terms of end-of-life disposal, efforts are being made to improve recycling methods and create biodegradable alternatives. Plant-based vegan leathers often have better biodegradability and compostability, contributing to a more sustainable lifecycle.
Benefits of Vegan Leather
Cruelty-Free and Ethical: Vegan leather offers a compassionate alternative to traditional leather, as no animals are harmed in its production. It appeals to individuals who prioritise ethical and cruelty-free fashion choices.
Versatility and Fashion Trends: Vegan leather provides a versatile material for fashion and design. It can be crafted into various textures, finishes, and colours, catering to diverse fashion trends and personal styles.
Drawbacks and Limitations of Vegan Leather
While vegan leather offers many advantages, it is important to acknowledge its limitations. Some of the drawbacks include:
Synthetic vegan leathers may not be as durable as traditional leather and can show signs of wear over time.
The production of synthetic vegan leathers involves the use of chemicals and fossil fuels, which can have environmental impacts during the manufacturing process.
Recycling and disposal of synthetic vegan leathers can be challenging, as they are not easily biodegradable.
Caring for Vegan Leather Products
Cleaning and Maintenance: Vegan leather products should be cleaned with mild, non-abrasive soap and water or a special vegan leather cleaner. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive scrubbing, as they can damage the surface. Regular maintenance, such as wiping with a soft cloth and storing properly, can prolong the lifespan of vegan leather items.
Storage Tips: To preserve the quality of vegan leather products, store them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Avoid folding or compressing items for extended periods to prevent creasing.
Comparing Vegan Leather with Traditional Leather
A common misconception is that cow leather is a natural, organic material and therefore better for the environment. The impact cannot be measured just by looking at the environmental aspects of production. It is important to consider the processes involved, the pollution created and the impact from cradle to gate.
The impact on animals globally is just as important when considering what materials to buy. More than one billion animals including cows, pigs, sheep, goats, snakes, alligators, ostriches, kangaroos, and even dogs and cats are cruelly slaughtered for their skins every year.
Vegan leather and traditional leather have distinct characteristics and considerations. Some key points of comparison include:
Style and versatility: Both vegan leather and traditional leather offer a wide range of options, allowing consumers to choose based on their preferences.
The Future of Vegan Leather
The fashion industry is one of the world’s largest polluters, coming in second after the oil industry. The spotlight has been on manufacturers, designers, and retailers to make environmentally friendly choices when developing and crafting their collections.
According to a 2007 global study called Pulse of the Fashion Industry, animal-based materials occupy three of the top five most polluting materials used in fashion. The ‘cradle to gate environmental impact’ study compared each type of fibre and its impact on chemistry, global warming and water scarcity, and cow leather was found to be most damaging of all the fibres. In the same study, it was determined that faux leathers contribute just one third of environmental impact compared to cow leather.
As sustainability and ethical considerations continue to shape consumer choices, the future of vegan leather looks promising. Ongoing research and development are focused on improving the durability, performance, and environmental impact of vegan leather materials. Innovations such as lab-grown leather and biofabrication techniques hold promise for creating more sustainable alternatives in the future.
Conclusion
Vegan leather offers a sustainable and cruelty-free alternative to traditional leather. By understanding the manufacturing processes, environmental impact, and benefits of vegan leather, individuals can make informed choices when it comes to their fashion and lifestyle preferences. With the increasing availability of vegan leather products and the continuous advancements in materials and technologies, the world of fashion is embracing a more compassionate and eco-friendly future.