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Input:
Question: its is made in japan?...
Document: It is heavy, but the image is fine, especially when stabilization is on. Some reviewers complained that the optical lens caps didn't stay on. It's true, but if you screw the recommended 52mm UV filters on...mine are made by Tiffen...the caps remain in place perfectly.
The lenses closest to one's eyes are also inadequately shielded, and get gunk on them all the time. The rubber eyecaps are made out of soft rubber, and I have had them tear 3 times now and had to replace them. The adjustment on the right ocular for a diopter is terrible since it will not stay set once you have adjusted it.
First, they are  extremely well made. They feel solid as a rock in your hand with no clatter or noise when you shake them. They are, at least for me, just the right size fitting my hands very well. They are hefty almost too hefty at a little over 2 lbs. But they are well balanced and the weight is centered at the palm of my hands.
Such candidates are, 7x50's (7.1mm), 10x70 (7mm), etc. Unfortunately, no binocs are made to produce larger exit pupils, cause the market would be way to small, so you must keep your eyes centered, and move the binocs to keep the subject of interest centered to avoid black-out condition.
The exit pupil is great letting your eyes move around with minimal blacking out on the sides. The image is spectacular, bright and sharp as a tack, I would expect it to be for the 4 figure price tag. And it is! You can focus a subject so sharply it makes the back of your teeth itch.The case too is very well made and fits the unit to a tee.
I hesitated to spend this much on something kind of ugly, and when I first opened the box, thought I had made a mistake...until I tried them while at sea. I deep sea fish, and have always had good Zeiss binoculars onboard... but only use them in calm seas; attempts to use otherwise result in cross-eyed vertigo. The new Canon binocs are like having bionic eyes!
That's the main reason I went with these. However, the lens cap solution for the binoculars is pitiful. The rear caps are not too bad but the front caps just don't stay on. I thought I'd scratched my expensive front elements the first day I used them. I had them around my neck and then we tacked. During the tack the front caps just fell off and I bumped the element on a plastic part in the cockpit. It appeared to have made a scratch.
One minor complaint: I wish Canon would provide locking screws for the settings; the barrel separation and right lens focus offset are constantly getting bumped out of adjustment.On the whole, image stabilization is hands down the greatest advance in binoculars since the invention of antireflection coating in the 1930's. These also show the continued technological superiority of Japan in consumer optics.
u are very YOUNG!On the other extreme, you are 80 and need to only accommodate your 2.5mm eye pupil diam. for day or night time viewing. Now, a tiny pair of binocs, 10x30 (3mm), 7x20 (3mm) will provide your eyes as much light as they can possibly absorb. To gain a bit more eye placement leeway, it always makes sense to use slightly larger exit pupil diameter vs. your eye pupil diam, which means bigger objective lenses for a given magnification.
precisely to match your eye spacing (this marked by IPD distance in mm, so you can easily re-set), as well as the EP to cornea distance (by twisting the lens covers)  you have very little leeway to swivel (rotate) your eye inside the exit pupil diam., so this forces you to keep your eyes looking at the center of the image circles. Therefore you must constantly move the binocs to keep the subject of interest centered in the image circle.
Answer: "Made in Japan" is stamped/printed on the binoculars itself and on the box they came in.