Instruction: Given a question and the related document, predict if the question is answerable based on the information provided in the document. Output only yes or no.

Input:
Question: Why did I have to use a separate pwr supply for the meter than the Switching Power supply that  I was measuring? Would not work otherwise.
Document: I mounted this in a plastic hobby box, cut the ends off of the shunt to fit inside the box, and wired to flange mounted Power-Pole connectors. I use this to monitor voltage and current from my 12 volt radio shack power supply. It was accurate enough out of the box for my needs, but is adjustable, if you have a particularly accurate, calibrated way to true it up.
It comes with a shunt, which I needed for this application. The ammeter works with a battery but I didn't want to have to have a separate means to turn this off and on so I purchased a AC/DC converter and installed that in the treadmill also. The bottom line is that it works well. I would recommend this to anyone. The only thing I would tell you in advance is that the meter itself is very small.
Ok so I followed the Electric Cars Wiring Diagram they have on the posting and I can't get the amps to work it stays on 0.0 even when I know I am using alot of amps. It's set up just like the photo shows. maybe I am missing something. But hey the Volts meter works great, so that's something.
There is no wiring diagram supplied with the meter. Not too hard to figure out but a diagram would make it easier and faster to connect. Many reviews state that the meter was inaccurate. I ignored that and ordered anyway. The current reading on the meter I ordered was off by approx six hundred percent. As a side note, the picture(s) are not in proportion. The shunt is much larger the the meter.
Works great in my 25 foot boat. Now I have the power consumption of everything electric and will not kill my batteries. I had to grind off the ends of the shunt to make it fit into an electrical box but I expected that since it did not fit into the ANL Fuse holder. Do not buy that product to house the shunt!
Much much smaller than I thought it would be. No instructions or wiring diagram. Havent hooked it up yet I may change my raiting.
I was having a problem burning out motor control boards in my treadmill. From my research it appears that this happens when friction builds up between the tread and the deck. The increase in friction causes the motor to work harder and draw more amps. However, certain parts in the board can't handle the amps getting above a certain point and when they blow the board stops working. I figured I could bypass this problem if I can ascertain when the amps start to go up.
The maximum current that is supplied to the batteries would be no more than 20 amps so there should not have been any problem there either. But the meters are simply junk. They were packaged very good and I actually received them one day before the expected delivery date so no problem there either.
these are terrible meters, one would not read amps right out of the box, the other was so inaccurate, threw them both in the trash.
In fact it's the reverse. The meter is extremely small and the shunt is larger than I thought, larger than the meter. But the bottom line is that it works and works well. Hopefully this will help to prevent the burning of any more motor control boards.
Answer: yes