Instruction: Output yes if the supporting document can answer the given question. Otherwise, output no.

Input:
Question: What is its CAPACITY?
Document: Updated 6/8/14*** I agree with what the other 5 star reviewer says about this device, it is well made and, if you follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer to make certain that you don't overrun it's capacity, it will work for you. I live in Portland Oregon( need I say more?
The product feels durable. I can't really comment on how well it's working as it is underground, but since the new change in water level hasn't changed much, I feel it's probably still working fine.One very small concern:- the hooks used to connect the sidewalls together could use a little work. They come apart fairly easily.Great product overall. I'm very pleased.
The knockouts required a great deal of force. I switched to a 1&#8221; spade bit and drilled the rest of the holes out. I used a jigsaw to cut the 4&#8221; hole  for the drainage pipe.Garden fabric is used to wrap the dry well. Regular plastic duct tape does not stick to the fabric. I used aluminum duct tape both to hold the fabric and to seal the opening around the drain pipe.The most labor intense part was digging the 4x4x4 foot hole.
Ordered and arrived in great shape. No bottom on unit, had to purchase locally at Menards. Directions are straight forward, and if you add the diameter of the hole, discharge pipe, and gravel needed, this system should hold 150 gallons or more of water. Make sure you wrap the unit in landscaping fabric, add 2-3 in of gravel to the bottom, and PVC glue the joints, top, and overflow. Thus unit has helped us prevent basement flooding during 3 or 4 in rain storms.
I installed one of these (made by FloWell) a couple years ago. Well made, should last forever. Be sure and do the necessary calculations to determine how many of these you need, and how big a hole to dig. The city of Portland publishes some helpful guides online for home drainage problems.Also be sure and use the proper fiberglass surround cloth on the outside to keep the drywell from silting up.
I drilled three 1/16&#8221; holes and used  1&#8221; #8 stainless steel screws to hold the lid on. Using the screws facilitated the installation by adding stability to the unit.Hole knockouts &#8211; The instructions say to use a small hammer to knock out the 1&#8221; leech holes. I started using a  pound hammer and then went to a 1 pound hammer.
I bought 2 of them from Lowes, free shipping, cost less than $75 each.Just a couple of helpful hints about installation( no need to read these if you are not a DIYer!)-1. Previously, I had trouble knocking out the 54 openings in the three sides of the walls, but using an appropriately sized hammer, with approximately a 3/4 " diameter head and giving the plugs a SHARP rap from the inside, they came popping out of there!2.
I am very pleased with the product. The installation for the most part went smoothly.It is made of rugged plastic and assembles easily.I am using the dry well to leech runoff from my roof gutters. I installed it 20 feet away from the house using 4&#8221; diameter PVC drainage pipe.Assembly &#8211; the side tabs were easy to align and fit the three sections together. The instructions said to align the top until all three flanges are aligned with the cover screw locations.
Be ready to do some digging at installation, and find an inexpensive source of 3/4 minus gravel or bigger river rock- and don't fill up the drum with it!! !
As the NDS instructional video shows and NDS RECOMMENDS, I will put my own 4" floor drain and 9" long ABS overflow at the top of the drum, not the $40 overflow drain that NDS sells. Putting that overflow on the drum ensures that if you have a huge quantity of water coming into the drum, it doesn't back up through your delivery system of pipe, and overflow at the point your downspouts enter the ABS or PVC standpipe.
Answer: yes