modification of a linear bar trough system by a standing edge wave abstract detailed fluid motions and bathymetric changes in the lacustrine nearshore zone at wymbolwood beach georgian bay canada were monitored during storms to test theoretical postulates about the importance of low frequency wave motions to nearshore circulation of water and sediments eighteen continuous resistance wave staffs and two electromagnetic current meters were deployed along one shore normal and two shore parallel instrument arrays over a period of two months during one intense storm a mode 3 standing edge wave at 0 035 hz was the predominant low frequency motion prior to the storm the bathymetry was characterized by linear bar trough systems and during the storm these features migrated onshore and became rhythmic in response to the length scales and relatively fixed locations of nodal and antinodal lines of the standing edge wave however a well defined crescentic bar as predicted by the model under the condition of zero net sediment flux divergence did not evolve because the hydrodynamic forcing ceased before an equilibrium condition could be attained nevertheless the location of scour and accretion features demonstrated the tendency towards such a crescentic form the offshore and alongshore irregularities of the post storm bathymetry are not readily explained by alternative hydrodynamic interactions

suspended sediment transport and nearshore bar formation on a shallow intermediate state beach abstract estimates of cross shore suspended sediment flux were obtained during a 3 day storm event on the north sea coast of denmark the suspended sediment flux estimates were correlated with volumetric beach change as registered at 28 permanently deployed survey rods crossing the intertidal beach and inner surf zones during this storm a nearshore bar initially migrated onshore and welded to the beach face at its updrift end subsequently a new bar formed on the seaward slope of the former suspended sediment transport recorded using optical backscatter sensors and electromagnetic current meters corresponded well qualitatively with the morphological evolution indications are that such measurements may account for a significant fraction of the actual cross shore sediment transport the onshore migration of the nearshore bar was the result of onshore directed mean currents associated with a cell circulation renewed bar formation took place when this circulation was locally replaced by an offshore directed mean current undertow suspended sediment transport due to oscillatory waves at incident and infragravity frequencies was generally subordinate to the mean transport

the thermal history of the upper palaeozoic rocks of southern portugal abstract vitrinite reflectance vr evidence suggests that palaeozoic rocks in the south portuguese zone of southwest portugal are strongly post mature with mean vr r r of 4 28 results from a thin carboniferous coal are very similar to those from associated mudrocks suggesting that the results from mudrocks in the region are not significantly influenced by the presence of reworked vitrinite particles integration of stratigraphic evidence with vr results from a field oriented carboniferous coal sample indicate that peak temperatures were attained post hercynian deformation within the late carboniferous late triassic interval results from the aureole of a minor mesozoic igneous intrusion suggest that these intrusions did not significantly increase the already high maturation level of the palaeozoic country rocks vr r r values from triassic jurassic and cretaceous sections that unconformably overlie the palaeozoic rocks are much lower 0 87 1 14 than those from the palaeozoic and are fully consistent with recorded stratigraphic thicknesses and burial at geothermal gradients of 20 30 c km 1

wave energy saturation on a natural beach of variable slope time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm these data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height transformed from measured flow and velocity on local slope and depth similar to previous studies as incident waves broke and propagated into the surf zone wave energy became saturated and wave height was strongly dependent on depth however the ratio of rms wave height to local depth rms was found not to be constant but to vary between 0 29 and 0 55 rms increased with local slope and was independent of deepwater wave steepness thus the surf zone similarity parameter the ratio of slope to the square root of steepness did not adequately parameterize rms

infragravity response to variable wave forcing in the nearshore 1 analysis of field observations of sea surface elevation reveals the role of time varying incident forcing and bound wave release mechanisms on the generation of infragravity waves on a barred beach observations of infragravity response were obtained during sea breeze and swell periods with wave height varying from 0 2 to 1 2 m and wave period from 3 to 16 s the observations show a stronger infragravity response to longer period incident swell than to short period wind sea during the peak of the sea breeze short period wind sea is conducive to long wave generation by breakpoint forcing under swell dominated conditions the frequency and wave number of incoming bound waves associated with wave groups may satisfy the linear dispersion relationship leading to resonant forcing of a free wave that appears to be released from the wave group the transition between long wave generation due to bound wave release and time varying breakpoint forcing agrees with the surf beat similarity parameter

the influence of long waves on macrotidal beach morphology the aim of the following paper is to demonstrate that standing long waves can generate intertidal morphological features in a dissipative macrotidal setting in this environment the tidal excursion can exceed the length scales associated with long waves this extends the work of simmonds et al 1995 in which it was shown that monochromatic long waves could generate sediment convergence patterns that bore a good similarity to observed topographic features namely ridges and runnels from a field site on the belgian coast the simulation is modified to include a band of long waves and it is found that a good correspondence with real topography can still be achieved on a tidally averaged basis by allowing for a degree of uncertainty in the breaking criterion it is also argued why the observed scales are more likely to correspond with the shorter end of the long wave spectrum the simulation helps to shed light on the conditions in which such features are known to form

sediment transport on dissipative intermediate and reflective beaches abstract in this paper we review and synthesize field measurements of suspended sediment transport on the shoreface of dissipative intermediate and reflective beach states the morphodynamic beach state continuum was originally established in the 1970s but at the time only hydrodynamic processes and morphologies in these various states were described since the early 1980s when sensors capable of resolving suspended sediment concentration at intra wave time scale became available many studies have examined suspended sediment transport by waves and currents on the shoreface the synthesis of this work shows that the two end states in the morphodynamic continuum which are the dissipative and reflective states exhibit relatively small rates of cross shore sediment transport and weak gradients in that transport which both ensure that the nearshore morphology is relatively stable the intervening intermediate beach states typically exhibit prominent bar topographies and in these states strong morphodynamic feedbacks between hydrodynamic processes and morphology create locally large transport rates and sharp transport gradients which is the reason for the dynamic nature of these beach states transport processes driving sediment onshore and offshore within beach states are discussed as well as the transport processes responsible for state transitions

geochronology and geochemistry of a suite of mafic rocks in chencai area south china implications for petrogenesis and tectonic setting abstract paleozoic crust mantle interaction and geodynamic setting of the south china block have remained largely elusive due to the scarcity of mafic rock suites here we report data from a suite of mafic rocks including norite mafic granulite garnet bearing amphibolite biotite bearing amphibolite and amphibolite from the chencai region in the northeastern cathaysia block of south china that mostly record amphibolite to granulite facies metamorphism u pb dating of zircons from the mafic granulite and biotite bearing amphibolite show broadly coeval magmatism and amphibolite to granulite facies metamorphism during 435 438 ma the garnet bearing amphibolite also records metamorphism at 436 ma and the magmatic age of its protolith is constrained to be between 436 ma and 496 ma the norite has an emplacement age of 422 ma geochemically the amphibolite and granulite have high al2o3 contents and belong to the high alumina group the garnet bearing amphibolite belongs to the intermediate alumina group whereas the norite and biotite bearing amphibolite belong to the low alumina group a cumulate origin is proposed for the norite with orthopyroxene as the main cumulus phase based on their similar trace element and lu hf isotopic signatures it is inferred that the protoliths of amphibolite and granulite belonging to high alumina group were likely generated from the same source furthermore their lree enrichment relative to hree positive eu anomaly and negative nb ta and zr anomalies suggest derivation from the same enriched mantle source perhaps in a continental arc environment zircons from the garnet bearing amphibolite belonging to intermediate alumina group have high positive hf t values with a peak of 14 and trace element signatures similar to n morb suggesting a depleted asthenospheric mantle source the rock suite from chencai suggests formation in an active continental margin with the garnet bearing amphibolite representing relics of the paleozoic oceanic crust in northeastern south china and the high and low alumina mafic rocks representing layered cumulates that developed in the arc root the amphibolite to granulite facies metamorphism recorded by these mafic and supracrustal rocks of chencai complex is consistent with high heat flow in an arc root

beach steps an evolutionary perspective abstract field observation of contrasting beach step behavior at canaveral national seashore on two subsequent days when incident wave conditions in the inner surf zone were similar prompted this re examination of our conceptual and quantitative understanding of beach steps these lower foreshore features are more complex than previously assumed evolving through erosional as well as accretional phases and displaying equifinality in geometric form but not necessarily internal sedimentary structure past and recent evidence is reviewed that links beach steps to incident waves at the surging plunging transition and to the action of a backwash vortex tides and low frequency waves likely play no direct role in beach step initiation although their presence can have pronounced influences on modulating nearshore hydrodynamics and thus on beach step maintenance and evolution a generalized conceptual model capturing these aspects of beach step dynamics is presented beach step initiation proceeds via step carving excavation or building depending on the erosional accretional character of the beach foreshore system subsequent evolution of the step form may take one of several alternative morphodynamic pathways including stepface retreat step drag down or step infilling elimination depending on tidal stage range or wave set up setdown additional data on equilibrium beach step forms and associated morphodynamic and hydrodynamic conditions in the field are necessary before quantitative models of beach step existence and evolution can be formulated with realistic results

coastal geomorphology through the looking glass abstract coastal geomorphology will gain future prominence as environmentally sound coastal zone management strategies requiring scientific information begin to supplant engineered shoreline stabilization schemes for amelioration of coastal hazards we anticipate substantial change and progress over the next two decades but we do not predict revolutionary advances in theoretical understanding of coastal geomorphic systems paradigm shifts will not occur knowledge will advance incrementally we offer predictions for specific coastal systems delineated according to scale for the surf zone we predict advances in wave shoaling theory but not for wave breaking we also predict greater understanding of turbulent processes and substantive improvements in surf zone circulation and radiation stress models very few of these improvements are expected to be incorporated in geomorphic models of coastal processes we do not envision improvements in the theory of sediment transport although some new and exciting empirical observations are probable at the beach and nearshore scale we predict the development of theoretically based two and three dimensional morphodynamical models that account for non linear time dependent feedback processes using empirically calibrated modules most of the geomorphic research effort however will be concentrated at the scale of littoral cells this scale is appropriate for coastal zone management because processes at this scale are manageable using traditional geomorphic techniques at the largest scale little advance will occur in our understanding of how coastlines evolve any empirical knowledge that is gained will accrue indirectly finally we contend that anthropogenic influences directly and indirectly will be powerful forces in steering the future of coastal geomorphology if you should suddenly feel the need for a lesson in humility try forecasting the future kleppner 1991 p 10

infragravity waves over a natural barred profile measurements of cross shore flow were made across the surf zone during a storm as a nearshore bar became better developed and migrated offshore measured infragravity band spectra were compared to synthetic spectra calculated numerically over the natural barred profile assuming a white run up spectrum of leaky mode or high mode edge waves as in earlier studies the spectra compared closely however for some frequencies the energy of the measured spectrum exceeded the energy of the synthetic spectrum suggesting that the run up spectrum was not white but had dominating frequencies utilizing cross shore flow data and synthetic spectra from a number of cross shore locations an equivalent run up spectrum was calculated for each day on the first day of the storm the equivalent run up spectrum indicated a dominant wave that had a node in velocity reasonably close to the bar crest later during the storm when the bar had migrated farther offshore there was no evidence for a dominant motion having a velocity node at the bar crest the structure of the equivalent run up spectrum compared well with spectra of direct measurements of run up obtained several hundred meters away we have no clear evidence in support of the theory that infragravity waves might form or force the offshore migration of a bar to confirm this finding longer records obtained synoptically over a developing bar are required the dominant wave observed early in the storm was consistent with symond and bowen s 1984 theoretical prediction of resonant amplification of discrete frequencies over a barred profile

standing edge waves on a pocket beach field measurements of edge waves obtained on a narrow pocket beach are described the beach named usgo is located on the north coast of spain immediately to the west of the city of santander and is exposed to the atlantic ocean the edge wave field on this beach is analyzed utilizing data from a longshore array of current meters located in about 3 m of water depth frequency spectra of longshore velocities display several significant peaks suggesting that the edge wave field on this pocket beach consists of several dominant modes this is in contrast to observations on open coastal beaches e g oltman shay and guza 1987 which show the existence of a broad banded edge wave field we isolate four frequency peaks and examine the longshore variation of the motions at these frequencies and find convincing evidence of a nodal structure utilizing the measured bathymetry we compute the cross shore profiles and theoretical wavelengths of edge waves at the dominant frequencies using a numerical solution of the shallow water equations by howd et al 1992 we find that edge waves at these frequencies are theoretically confined between the headlands since their amplitudes decay to insignificant levels within a cross shore distance that is less than the offshore extent of the headlands in addition assuming perfect sidewall reflections the theoretical nodal locations closely correspond to those inferred from the measurements we conclude that discrete standing edge waves resulting from resonances related to the longshore width of the beach are present on usgo beach

trends in research on beaches and dunes on sandy shores 1969 2019 abstract trends in research on morphologic changes on beaches and foredunes on sandy shores are identified from the 1960s to the present research during this period evolved from early descriptive explanation and classification of profile change to instrumented field investigations to modelling of landform change at larger scales research efforts have become increasingly more collaborative with increasing use of field instrumentation data acquisition systems and remote sensing rich datasets are resulting in more comprehensive computational models human altered systems are of increasing interest but knowledge of these systems lags far behind knowledge of natural systems research is becoming more relevant to societal needs as the vulnerability of coastal populations increases the need for investigation of understudied or unexplored environments including human altered ones is ongoing many basic research issues remain but future studies would profit from the development of new models rather than validating or reconfiguring old models collaboration between geomorphologists and engineers may open up research opportunities particularly in modifying beaches and dunes built for shore protection to provide natural values in restricted space application of models to enhance knowledge of effects of sea level rise and coastal storms would be useful to managers developing resiliency plans

skewness in the nearshore zone a comparison of estimates from marsh mcbirney current meters and colocated pressure sensors many of the field studies that have undertaken an investigation of surf zone dynamics e g nearshore sediment transport study canadian coastal sediment study have relied on marsh mcbirney electromagnetic current meters to measure the velocity field data from these instruments have been used to compute higher order moments of the velocity field which are used as an input in many sediment transport models however recent laboratory measurements by aubrey and trowbridge 1985 have raised questions regarding the suitability of marsh mcbirney current meters for surf zone studies and the accuracy of higher order velocity moments fortunately colocated pressure and velocity measurements were made during field programs in effect this provides a calibration check in the field of the performance of these instruments a cross spectral analysis indicates that colocated marsh mcbirney current meter measurements are highly coherent this is true for measurements from inside and outside the surf zone as a result normalized skewness estimates computed with the aid of the bispectrum from these colocated current meter measurements differ by only a few percent a cross spectral analysis between colocated pressure and velocity measurements show a similar distribution of variance for wind wave frequencies observed differences between normalized skewness estimates from colocated pressure and velocity measurements are shown to be consistent with the theoretical expectation that pressure has a nonlinear dependence on velocity these results suggest that the marsh mcbirney current meter is suitable for the estimation of nondimensional velocity moments even in breaking wave conditions

frequency dependent cross shore suspended sediment transport 1 a non barred shoreface abstract the local time varying and time averaged suspended sediment transports across a marine non barred shoreface were obtained from field measurements of the near bed velocity and sediment concentration vectors using electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatterance suspended solids sensors co spectral analyses of velocity and sediment concentration revealed the contributions of waves of different frequencies to the total transport the transport attributable to quasi steady currents was determined from the product of the time averaged cross shore velocity and sediment concentration estimates of the local time integrated sediment volume flux total and net and the associated erosion or accretion were determined using depth of activity rods suspended sediment transport was associated with 1 local wind forced waves 2 swell 3 low frequency waves group bound long waves and 4 offshore directed mean currents undertow these transport components varied spatially and temporally in response to changes in the wave height to water depth ratio the local net oscillatory transport rate at wind wave and swell wave frequencies was directed onshore predominantly and increased as water depth decreased in association with wave shoaling the local mean sediment transport rate was predominantly offshore and dominated the net transport rate wherever wave induced components were weak relative to the mean currents under breaking waves the suspended sediment transport contribution associated with wind waves and swell waves was reduced as a result of dissipation the net suspended sediment transport rate exhibited a distinct vertical structure reflecting the balance at each elevation between the opposing mean and oscillatory components of transport the local time averaged total and net sediment volume flux and resulting erosion and accretion patterns support the hypothesis of a near balance in sediment flux for the complete storm event

waves currents sediment flux and morphological response in a barred nearshore system abstract a shore normal array of seven bi directional electromagnetic flowmeters and nine surface piercing continuous resistance wave staffs were deployed across a multiple barred nearshore at wendake beach georgian bay canada and monitored for a complete storm cycle time integrated estimates of total itvf and net invf sediment volume flux together with bed elevation changes were determined using depth of activity rods the three bars ranging in height from 0 10 to 0 40 m accreted during the storm 0 03 m and the troughs were scoured 0 05 m sediment reactivation depths reached 0 14 m and 12 of the nearshore control volume was mobilized however the invf value for the storm was less than 1 of the control volume revealing a near balance in sediment volume in the bar system landward migration of the inner crescentic and second sinuous bars occurred in association with an alongshore migration of the bar form itself the outermost straight shore parallel bar remained fixed in location the surf zone was highly dissipative throughout the storm 3 8 10 2 192 10 2 and the wave spectrum was dominated by energy at the incident frequency spectral peaks at frequencies of the first harmonic and at one quarter that of the incident wave were associated with secondary wave generation just prior to breaking and a standing edge wave respectively the former spectral peak was within the 95 confidence band for the spectrum while the latter contributed not more than 10 to the total energy in the surface elevation spectrum even near the shoreline during the storm wave height exceeded 2 m h s and periods reached 5 s t p k orbital velocities exceeded 0 5 m s 1 u rm s and were above the threshold of motion for the medium to fine sands throughout the storm shore parallel flows in excess of 0 4 m s 1 were recorded with maxima in the troughs and minima just landward of the bar crest the rate and direction of sediment flux is best explained by the interaction of antecedent bed slopes with spatial gradients in the mean and asymmetry of the shore normal velocity field these hydrodynamic parameters represent steady flows superimposed on the dominantly oscillatory motion and assumed a characteristic spatial pattern from the storm peak through the decay period increases spatially in the magnitudes of both the mean flows and flow asymmetries cause an increasing net transport potential erosion decreases in these values spatially cause a decreasing net transport potential and thus deposition these transport potentials are increased or decreased through the gravity potential induced by the local bed slope shore parallel flow was important in explaining sediment flux and morphological change where orbital velocities mean flows and flow asymmetries were at a minimum

hydrodynamics and sediment transport within the inner surf zone of a lacustrine multiple barred nearshore abstract it has become increasingly recognized that the typically unexpected behavior of the nearshore profile over a sequence of storm events is a response to strong feedback between the antecedent morphology and the incident wave field this paper systematically examines the suspended sediment transport and morphodynamics within the surf zone of a lacustrine multiple barred upper shoreface a range of significant wave heights h s and local relative wave heights h s h 1 h water depth are considered in order to describe and identify the limits to the feedback mechanisms that can dominate the nearshore response data from collocated concentration and velocity sensors indicate that the direction and magnitude of suspended sediment transport varies with the degree of local wave energy dissipation and the cross shore variation in these relationships depends partly on the local bed slope this dependence indicates the presence of a strong self organization at the scale of the individual bar within the inner surf zone these bar scale relationships are constrained by the shoaling transformations which occur over the outermost bar for ranges of incident wave height defined locally e g intermediate waves h s 0 4 to 0 9 m storm waves 0 9 to 1 4 m the innermost and middle bars remain in a state of self organized equilibrium for intermediate range waves this equilibrium is a consequence of wave height reduction over the outer bar through breaking and the generation of secondary harmonic waves for the storm wave range the equilibrium is maintained through a resonant amplification of discrete edge wave modes with the bars forced to a position coincident with the surface elevation antinodes these upper shoreface scale feedback mechanisms are weakened particularly for intermediate wave heights following threshold storms capable of moving the outermost bar offshore and lower on the profile this allows the middle and inner bars to be forced directly by variations in the offshore incident waves thus the bars respond in a cyclic manner the bar cycle

test of edge wave forcing during formation of rhythmic beach morphology 1 this paper reports on concurrent measurements of evolving rhythmic beach morphology and the associated water motion on a macrotidal coarse sandy beach beach cusps with a spacing of 19 m developed over a 3 day period of low energy swell after which they were destroyed by energetic wind waves the beach cusps were clearly accretionary features and developed mainly during the rising tide detailed hydrodynamic measurements were conducted at three locations in the swash and inner surf zone in the vicinity of a developing cusp horn and revealed that energetic standing mode zero subharmonic edge waves were not present during the initiation of the beach cusps specifically analysis of the hydrodynamic data indicated that 1 the amount of subharmonic energy was limited 10 of the total energy 2 none of the computed energy spectra exhibited a significant peak at the subharmonic frequency 3 the cross shore velocity amplitude at the subharmonic frequency was 2 3 times larger than the longshore velocity amplitude 4 the longshore current motion at the subharmonic frequency was barely coherent between adjacent locations in the surf zone and 5 the time series of pressure and cross shore current were in phase at either side of the developing cusp horn it is concluded that at least during this event of beach cusp formation energetic standing edge waves are not a prerequisite to initiate the development of rhythmic beach morphology

beach morphodynamics in a strong wind bay a low energy environment abstract the morphodynamic behaviour of a multibarred beach in a fetch limited strong wind bay seaford beach se australia was examined during both high and low energy conditions and considered in the context of a definition of low energy provided in the literature measurements of nearshore waves currents and morphology revealed a bimodal behaviour under initial low energy conditions the beach exhibited a low tide terrace state and waves and currents were of very low magnitude during subsequent high energy conditions the beach demonstrated dynamic behaviour through the formation of a transitional transverse bar and rip rhythmic bar and beach and migration of the middle bar with the morphology remaining in an arrested high energy state during intervening low energy periods although broadly conforming to the morphodynamic model the beach did exhibit some distinct characteristics attributable to its fetch limited location limited progression through the morphodynamic model and the importance of wind direction and magnitude in governing morphodynamic behaviour furthermore rip currents were not significant in driving beach change through intermediate states the presence of infragravity energy in the storm wave spectra a dissipative multibarred surf zone dynamic inner and middle bars and the attainment of a transitional transverse bar and rip rhythmic bar and beach state during rising wave conditions underline seaford beach as bimodal exhibiting process and morphologic features of both higher and lower energy beaches as an example of a beach in a strong wind bay seaford illustrates that not all fetch limited beaches are low energy furthermore the presence of infragravity energy in a highly fetch limited environment indicates that infragravity energy may occur commonly in fetch limited environments that are subject to periodic strong winds a process that has remained largely unrecognised

nearshore water motion and mean flows in a multiple parallel bar system abstract measurements of surface waves and nearshore water motion were made with wave staffs and electromagnetic currentmeters across the straight outer bars of a multiple parallel bar system at wasaga beach georgian bay ontario three sets of experiments were carried out between 1983 and 1985 and this paper examines the characteristics of spatial and temporal variations in incident waves and mean flows incident wave spectra during storms are typical of fetch limited conditions with a prominent peak in the wind wave frequency and a sharp cut off towards lower frequencies there is little evidence of significant energy at infragravity frequencies mean flows perpendicular to the shoreline during storms measured at 0 1 m above the bed are offshore with speeds of 0 04 0 10 m s 1 during moderate storms and 0 25 m s 1 during intense fall storms longshore currents are relatively weak and their direction closely follows changes in the incident wind angle about shore perpendicular there is no evidence of rip cell development and offshore return flow occurs as an undertow uniformly alongshore forming a simple two dimensional net circulation pattern the presence of the undertow very close to the bed is an important control on the direction of suspended sediment transport and thus in maintaining the equilibrium of the nearshore bars

morphodynamics of a bar trough surf zone abstract a field study was made of the distinguishing morphodynamic processes operating in a surf zone which perennially exhibits accentuated bar trough topography the longshore bar trough and rhytmic bar and beach states as described by wright and short 1984 characteristic features of the morphology include a shallow bar with a steep shoreward face a deep trough and a steep beach face this morphology which is favored by moderate breaker heights and small tidal ranges strongly controls the coupled suite of hydrodynamic processes in contrast to fully dissipative surf zones the bar trough surf zone is not at all saturated and oscillations at incident wave frequency remain dominant from the break point to the subaerial beach the degree of incident wave groupiness does not change appreciably across the surf zone infragravity standing waves which in dissipative surf zones dominate the inshore energy remain energetically secondary and occur at higher frequencies in the bar trough surf zone analyses of the field data combined with numerical simulations of leaky mode and edge wave nodal antinodal positions over observed surf zone profiles indicate that the frequencies which prevail are favored by the resonant condition of antinodes over the bar and nodes in the trough standing waves which would have nodes over the bar are suppressed sediment resuspension in the surf zone appears to be largely attributable to the incident waves which are the main source of bed shear stress in addition the extra near bottom eddy viscosity provided by the reformed non breaking waves traversing the trough significantly affects the vertical velocity profile of the longshore current whereas the bar is highly mobile in terms of onshore offshore migration rates the beach face and inner regions of the trough are remarkably stable over time

bar formation due to wave groups and associated long waves abstract field observations reveal that waves propagating onto a beach from deeper water have a grouped structure associated with this pattern of alternating high and low waves is a long wave forced by radiation stress variations due to the changing short wave height as the wave groups propagate onshore the relationship between the variation in the short wave height and the long wave motion is complicated by breaking of the short waves reflection of the long wave and the generation of a free long wave by time variation of the breakpoint position nevertheless there may still be a fixed phase relation between the short wave envelope and the long wave motion at any particular location resulting in a net transport of sediment over the timescale of the short wave groups this transport arises from sediment grains mobilised by short waves and moved by the long wave motion model predictions of wave group propagation onto a beach and the associated long wave motions are presented which suggest that sediment transport due to short wave long wave coupling may result in the formation of a bar within the inner surf zone and the possibility of additional bars further offshore outside the surf zone this mechanism for bar formation may provide a new framework for understanding bar morphodynamics

on time delays in the nearshore zone between onshore and longshore currents at incident wave frequencies observations of horizontal velocities just outside the surf zone on two natural beaches show unexpected time lags between the onshore offshore currents and the longshore currents at incident wave frequencies these time lags typically around 20 s appear to have been first noticed by katoh 1981 in data from a beach in japan a number of possible hypotheses to explain these time lags are examined of these propagation of secondary waves formed by reflection or diffraction at a point alongshore from the measurement site seems most able to explain the observations this suggests a significance for reflected diffracted waves some distance from breakwaters or headlands which has not previously been recognized in field studies however a number of questions remain that will only be resolved by further field data particularly from beaches far removed from end effects

waves long waves and nearshore morphology abstract recent field measurements on beaches of different slopes have established that wave motion at periods substantially longer than the incident waves dominates the velocity field close to the shore analysis of a number of extensive data sets shows that much of this long wave motion is in the form of progessive edge waves though forced wave motion standing edge waves and free waves propagating away from the shore may also contribute to the energy theoretically the drift velocities in bottom boundary layers due to edge waves show spatial patterns of convergence and divergence which may move sediment to form either regular crescentic or cuspate features when only one edge wave mode dominates or a bewildering array of bars bumps and holes when several phase locked modes exist together convincing field demonstration of the link between nearshore topography and edge waves only exists for the special case of small scale beach cusps on steep beaches formed by edge waves at the subharmonic twice the period of the incident waves at longer periods the link is proving more difficult to establish due to the longer time scales of topographic changes the interaction between pre existing topography and the water motion and the observation of broad banded edge wave motion which is not readily linked to topography with a well defined scale these ideas are however central to the study of nearshore processes as most of the plausible alternate hypotheses do not seem to lead to quantitative predictions clearly further theoretical and observational work is essential

field observations of surf beat 1 progressive edge waves nineteen biaxial electromagnetic current meters have been used to determine the longshore and on offshore structure of currents at surf beat periods 1 4 min the sensors formed two linear arrays a long shore array within the surf zone and an on offshore array stretching from the shoreline to well beyond the breaker line analysis of the longshore current components yields a clear picture of progressive low mode edge waves with frequency wave number dispersion relations which are in remarkably good agreement with predictions some separation of edge wave modes is found with mode zero energy dominating in the frequency band 0 006 and 0 011 hz and mode one between 0 015 and 0 025 hz on offshore currents present a rather different picture which while not inconsistent with the longshore currents suggests that other sources of energy are also important to the on offshore currents these include standing edge waves probably formed by reflections at nearby scripps canyon and motions which are nonresonantly forced by incoming wave groups

equilibrium slopes and cross shore velocity asymmetries in a storm dominated barred nearshore system abstract the near bed 0 10 m elevation horizontal velocities were measured across a two barred lacustrine shoreface during a storm and reveal a spatially coherent but temporally variable pattern in the low order moments of the velocity field large cross shore velocity asymmetries indicated 1 1 spatially extensive and temporally persistent offshore mean flows up to 0 18 m s 1 across the landward slope of the linear outer bar reflecting an undertow driven by a wave induced setup 2 2 an onshore directed skewness opposing the mean flow of wind wave origin and persistent under propagating bores in the inner bar system long after this asymmetry had disappeared from the outer bar extensive sediment reactivation with near zero net sediment flux over the whole of the upper shoreface indicated a sediment prism in a steady state volumetrically over the storm cycle uniform depths of sediment reactivation with zero bed elevation change over the storm cycle revealed local slopes in a steady state in the outer linear bar however time integration of the near bed velocity field at this location indicated an offshore net flux of water while sedimentary structures indicated bedform migration and thus at least bedload almost uniformly onshore when ripples and megaripples were present the sediment transport giving rise to the local equilibrium cannot be explained therefore on the basis of the mean properties of the near bed velocity vector but requires knowledge of the time varying instantaneous sediment transport vector onshore migration of the inner bar correlated well with the large and persistent onshore skewness of the velocity distribution in the inner surf zone associated with translatory surf bores throughout the storm decay period low frequency oscillations were only significant close to the shoreline but may have influenced the development of a sinuous three dimensional inner bar form as it migrated onshore

modification of edge waves by barred beach topography a numerical model to calculate edge wave profiles and wavelengths for arbitrary bottom profiles and given frequency was developed utilizing the model wave equation of berkhoff 1972 following smith and sprinks 1975 surface profiles and longshore wave numbers were found for fixed wave periods using an eigenvalue approach the model was verified by calculating profiles and dispersion for a plane beach of mild slope and comparing results with the analytic solution of eckart 1951 and ursell 1952 the model was then applied to the case of a beach with multiple offshore bars with bar positions determined by the antinodal positions of a standing incident wave of a set frequency calculation of surface profiles for a range of frequencies using a fixed beach indicated that antinodes of the edgewave profiles tend to be trapped by the bars suggesting the possibility that bars affect the long wave climate in such a way as to lead to self maintenance over extended periods no effect of the bars on the dispersion relationship was found and it was concluded that for the particular beach profile used the edge waves respond to the mean beach slope over the offshore length of the profile

edge waves on the sydney coast pressure and current oscillations at periods of 40 s to 17 min observed during storm conditions at two locations separated by 560 m in the alongshore direction in the coastal ocean near sydney australia indicate the existence of infragravity waves having amplitudes of 20 cm and velocities of 10 cm s 1 the observed infragravity waves appear to be locally forced by the wind wave envelope through radiation stress yet the observed alongshore phase differences of the infragravity waves are consistent with those predicted from free edge wave theory for low mode edge waves travelling northward and the relationship of pressure to velocity at each location is also consistent with free edge wave theory as a function of time the infragravity wave spectral energy grows and decays in step with the longer period wind waves suggesting a continuous transfer of energy the infragravity waves appear to contain energy in both directly forced and freely propagating edge wave oscillations the edge waves may be generated either by radiation stress as outlined above by a resonant triad mechanism or by a combination of the two

longshore bar and trough systems in a microtidal storm wave dominated coast the ebro delta northwestern mediterranean abstract the ebro delta coast is a microtidal sandy shoreline affected by a low energy mean wave climate consecutive topographical and bathymetrical surveys during the years 1990 and 1991 have allowed us to identify nine major longshore bar and trough systems as the main morphological feature of the ebro coast bar systems show high mobility both cross shore and longshore the cross shore migration of these systems may be landward or seaward with mean migration rates of up to 0 25 m day the longshore migration is produced by the longitudinal growth of the bar systems in the downdrift direction with rates of up to 11 m day the major morphological changes in the nearshore zone occurred during storm periods when the nearshore profile is modified as a consequence of shoreline erosion and the cross shore migration and longshore growth of the bar systems produced by these events the modifications in the nearshore profile may continue during some months after the storm before attaining a new equilibrium profile a descriptive model relating the shoreline displacement with the cross shore migration and the longshore growth of the bar and trough systems is proposed

bars bumps and holes models for the generation of complex beach topography in shallow water any two waves of the same frequency are shown to produce complex patterns of drift velocity above the sea bed if the longshore components hi h of the wave numbers of the two waves are different these steady flow patterns exhibit a longshore periodicity of wave number hi h irrespective of whether the waves propagate in the same direction say hi he positive or in opposite directions he negative the interaction of two edge wave modes is examined in detail the drift velocities are calculated and a simple sediment transport model is used to predict the beach topography that would be in equilibrium with these flow patterns as expected crescentic sand bars are produced by the special case of standing edge waves hi h intriguingly for all other cases a combination of complex transverse bars plus meandering or straight offshore bars result patterns that are surprisingly reminiscent of many published descriptions of complex rhythmic topography the extension of the model to three or more waves produces topography that appears to be very irregular although the pattern should repeat over sufficiently long distances along the beach even with only three waves these distances may be very large compared to the scale of the bars