Premise: A surf break at Point Leo, on the Mornington Peninsula, one of the closest surf beaches to Melbourne in Victoria, Australia known as First Reef or more colloquially just "The Reef". Until the 1970s there was little or no resident surfing population in Point Leo, so the Reef was mainly surfed by the few transient waveriders who were exploring the many breaks to be found in Westernport Bay.
Hypothesis: The Reef is a dangerous place to surf.