Polished and varietal, this shows the skills of winemaker Chuck Reininger. The 2006 vintage produced tight, hard-edged, herbal wines, ageworthy but unyielding. But here it has been honed and softened, so that its Bordeaux-like traits are emphasized, with plenty of herbal character and spicy purple fruits. Still coming out of its shell, this is a wine to cellar and drink with a big, grilled steak.