A tender but enticing touch of peach rises from the glass. There also is a glint of smoke and a touch of lemon zestiness. It is lemon and tangy citrus that takes over on the taut linear palate. Zestiness fizzes and gives the concentrated palate a wonderfully weightless feel that belies the depth of fruit. This is totally appetizing and refreshing with a dry, moreish finish. Drink 2017–2035.