From northeast-facing vineyards that catch morning sun at 1,200 feet, this is micro-terroir grapegrowing at its most extreme. Cool weather has yielded crisp acidity and fruit that runs the razor's edge between raspberry ripeness and mint-and-tomato earthiness. Very fine barrels add smoke, spice, vanilla and oak-modulated roundness. It seems to lack depth, but then so do certain Burgundies in their youth. —S.H.