The eponymous winemaker of this brand is based in San Francisco, from which, in this bottling, he turns out a stunner. Focused, intense, energetic and yet delicate, the nose is full of just-ripe raspberries, bay leaf, thyme, eucalyptus and chipped slate. A sip reveals crushed herbs galore, from oregano to anise, set against tart pomegranate and red plums. Menthol shows on the finish.