John Chiarito is making Italian varieties like Nero d'Avola and Negro Amaro––as well as estate-grown Petite Sirah and Zinfandel––on the outskirts of Ukiah, from his basement winery. There he combines an Old-World sensibility with New World techniques. He's nailing it here with a rustic, tannic but intensely delicious Zin full of berry aromas and a spicy finish. Big and hearty, this wine has soul.