With the 2009 vintage, De Loach is at the top of its Pinot Noir game, and this one, from a chilly vineyard south of Sebastopol, is among its best ever. The crisp acidity, like a squirt of lime, that accompanies the raspberry, cherry and persimmon fruit is bracing. Meanwhile, a mushroomy earthiness gives complex layers that don't stop. It should age through the next decade.