The antithesis of a squeaky-clean commercial wine, this funky but compelling and complex bottling is an adventure to drink. Brownish in color, it conveys strong earth, spice and new-leather notes in the aroma, followed by flavors like black tea, rhubarb and cedar. While it was aged for an unusually long time in 70% new French oak, it comes off as layered and spicy but not at all overoaked.