Slightly funky notions appear first: There's a hint of reduction but this, thankfully, blows off. Underneath sits a very sprightly, very fresh wine that pits fruity apple mellowness against total, dry freshness. This has a concentrated core, the aromas are still a little tinged by the flinty, smoky hints of reduction but this will stand them in good stead for cellar age. Give this some time. Drink 2020–2030.