Demure in stature yet brooding with power, this late-release 2012 Riesling is compelling evidence of winemaker Steve Shaw's soft-spoken dynamism. Semidry in style, it's light as a feather, yet richly layered with shades of grapefruit, spice and smoke. While delicious now, it's rigidly structured still, and likely to continue to improve for many years to come.