Initial whiffs of smoke and struck flint fade into pretty pineapple and blossom on the nose of this full-bodied, dry Riesling. Mango and tangerine flavors are riper and heftier on the palate than in many of the Mosel's 2015 Grosses Gewächs wines, neatly balanced by racy acidity and a backbone of cool steel. It's delicious already, but likely to evolve well through the 2020s at least.