Winemaker Rachel Silkowski takes cues from her mentor Brian Loring in her debut wine, which is brawny and lavish with nose-ticklingly spicy aromas of cloves and nutmeg laid across black plum, olallieberry and violets. Baked black plum and black peppercorn are lifted by Christmas spices galore, from allspice to dried ginger. It's an attention grabber.