Tempranillo is the most finicky major variety grown in California. It's almost impossible to get right, but when a winery succeeds, as Lee has with this bottling, the wine is delicious. It's brisk in Arroyo Seco acidity and bone dry, with a silky texture reminiscent of Pinot Noir, with which it might be confused for its cherry and persimmon flavors. The distinction is a sweet meatiness, like the char on the fat of a ribeye steak.