After finding little to like about the blatantly overripe 2003 El Nogal, the '04 is a wonderful surprise. Yes, it's still a ripe, chewy specimen with aromas of prune, smoke, spice cake and leather. But in the mouth it delivers weighty plum, raspberry and cassis but also a delicate wrapping of chocolate and coconut. A lot to ponder, and better sooner than later. Drink now through 2011.