Flavio Fanti's tiny 12-acre vineyard is treated almost like his backyard, with a scrupulous attention to detail and now a dense planting that has definitely improved the quality of the wines. The 1997 shows modern, spicy wood, violet and rose aromas. The palate is rich, firm and dry, but with attractive bitter chocolate and licorice flavors. The new wood shows through but never throws the wine off balance.