Far better known as a Pinot Noir producer, Roessler has released this dry Riesling from 25-year-old vines, and it's a terrifically interesting, distinctive California white wine. At 4 years of age, it's bone dry, showing crisp, vibrant Anderson Valley acidity, and is showing the oily, diesel, peach, honeysuckle and hazelnut flavors of a maturing, Alsatian-style Riesling. Should continue to develop bottle complexity for another decade.