Whether by virtue of vintage or bottle variation, Boudreaux wines seem to gyrate a bit wildly when first released. This new 2005 is no exception. At first sniff it explodes into life, the aromas a mix of herb, spice, tar, smoke, earth and fruit. Flavors are threaded together into a seamless, saturated whole—plum, cassis and cherry liqueur up front, earth and tannin right behind. Some tasters may find it leaning toward the medicinal, but for those who love Rob Newsom's full-speed-ahead style, this is a gorgeous bottle.