Michael Mondavi's Folio Fine Wine Partners now offers an Oregon Pinot Noir, this one vinified by Rob Mondavi, a fourth- generation winemaker. Pale and elegantly styled, it shows refined winemaking skills and a European sensibility. Pungently herbal, this supple wine brings young fruit flavors of cranberry and raspberry, but shows ageworthy depth and persistence. It's the sort of subtle, classic style that rewards both time and attention.