After “fiddling around,” as he puts it, with blends in his '96 and '97 cabs, winemaker Alex Golitzin decided to go with straight Cabernet in '98, an exceptional vintage for Washington State. This is a tight, focused effort, with powerful black fruits augmented with herbs and spices and a hint of mineral. Young, tart and tannic, it will continue to improve as it knits together over the years. Editors' Choice.