A bold, muscular, striking wine with nerves of steel, this offers a dense, demanding array of black fruit threaded with veins of espresso, smoke, tar, tobacco and iron. As it bursts with exotic barrel flavor, the fruit seems a bit buried, but time after time these wines unfold over the course of decades into glorious maturity. These are arguably the most long-lived and cellarworthy wines in Washington—if not in the entire country.