A tender notion of slightly bitter, dark fir honey appears first before a touch of smoke and ripe peach come in. The off-dry palate uses its sweetness to underline the rich peachy fruit that also has a touch of golden mirabelle. The big bold palate is concentrated and energetic, pervaded by a streak of zesty lemon freshness that keeps this from becoming too rich. There is undeniable drive here, and a very lasting persistent length of peach and lemon flavors which will develop much more with bottle age. Drink. 2017–2037.