Keuka Spring Vineyards staged a remarkable renewal recently by introducing August Deimel, increasingly one of the Finger Lakes most promising young winemakers, as its head winemaker. This delightfully brisk Cabernet Franc showcases the crispness of sweet-tart black plums and cherries swathed in a finery of fresh, green herbs. It's deeply concentrated with black fruit flavors, yet elegant and refined, finishing long on a flurry of feathery tannins.