Leonetti's 2009 Reserve—92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot—is a simpler blend than in past vintages, and it seems to mark a return to the style of wine that built the winery's reputation initially. Powerfully, lavishly oaky, with a ripe, chewy black-fruit flavor, it is bursting with notes of black cherry, cassis, dark chocolate and a hint of butter. Though not quite as graceful or detailed as the regular Cabernet, this is the more potently expressive of the two flagship Leonetti reds.