Very earthy notes precede a subdued nose of citrus zest. These tart but expressive notes open up a little more on the palate where they are joined by a rounded, if crunchy structure. There is ample freshness here but also an earthy and (for now) citrus-fruited generosity. The finish reverts to stony, earthy cleanness. This is intriguing and needs time to unfold its fruit and unusual texture. Drink 2020–2030