Waves of rich bacon fat, maple, caramelized black cherries, campfire smoke and an elegant touch of lavender show on the nose of this bottling, which includes 14% Counoise. Similar smoke shows on the palate, but it's more tart and acidic than expected, with underripe blackberry and black plum skin flavors. The tannins are fine-grained but firm. Drink 2018 through 2023.