The grapes come from three very widely separated vineyard sources. The Klipsun, says winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla, is for the backbone and tannins; the Pepper Bridge gives dried herbs and tighter tannins; and the Alder Ridge is more European and fills out the midpalate. This is showing very well, and has clearly benefited from the extra bottle age. It's beautifully integrated, with the tannins substantial but polished. The fruit mixes ripe berries and moves smoothly into flavors of earth, smoke, tobacco and graphite.