This is the top bottling of Thomas Fogarty's ambitious Bordeaux-aimed brand, and it shows, with regionally distinctive aromas of crushed rocks, blueberry, tar and smoke. The intriguing palate is elegance defined, with sexy tannins and mineral-driven flavors of black dirt, wet slate and squeezed blueberry. It makes for enlightening drinking now, but offers measured components that will last until at least 2030.