Great vineyards, great winery, great vintage: There's lots to like about this big, bold, fruity wine that manages to be complex and elegant at the same time. Masses of blackberry, black currant and violets, with smoke and vanilla from oak aging. What's hard to convey is the balance, richness, harmony and depth of flavor, which are really stunning. Age it for a few years if you want, but it's at or near its delicious best now.