The lightest of the Thornton lineup marches to the beat of a different drummer. Dominated by Muscat Canelli, the aromas suggest ripe pears, buttered cinnamon toast and candied orange peel, but it’s not really sweet. In fact, it’s just barely off-dry, with wonderfully rich flavors. It finishes a little sugary, which makes it cloying, but this is a minor criticism. All in all, it’s good, unconventional stuff.