corydoras seussi is a south american catfish , family callichthyidae .

it was named after german ichthyologist dr werner seuss .

it quite strongly resembles the corydoras gossei .

however , it can be differentiated by its longer snout ; nonetheless , it is not a ' true ' longnose corydoras in the manner of , for example , corydoras septentrionalis .

the captive spawning of this catfish has not been documented .

corydoras seussi

orydoras seussi has been available to the hobbyist for a few years now , and shares a similar colour pattern with corydoras gossei , which has a rounded snout . before being described scientifically as corydoras seussi this magnificent catfish was referred to as c27 .
corydoras seussi belongs to the family callichthyidae from brazil ; namely the rio poranga a tributary of the upper rio negro and the mamore river basin .
as with all the other corydoras that i have had the pleasure to keep over the years , corydoras seussi readily accepts a mixed and varied diet . i personally feed all of my corydoras on sinking pellets , good quality flake foods , granular foods , cultured whiteworm and frozen foods such as bloodworm to name but a few .
there are no reported cases of this species of corydoras breeding in the aquarium .
corydoras on fine sand instead of gravel . great for loaches and apistogrammas as well .
always use fine gravel or sand for the tank substrate to prevent the barbels on this fish being damaged . corydoras seussi should be kept in groups of at least 5 fish and add hiding places to the tank . always keep these fish with other peaceful species .
no captive breeding information is available , but it can probably be bred in a similar fashion to many other corydoras species .
these catfish are very peaceful towards their own kind and indeed other species of corydoras . these catfish are ideally suited to being kept in a community aquarium environment with other non - aggressive species of fish such as tetras and dwarf cichlids . whilst corydoras seussi are not cheap to purchase , wherever possible i would recommend that you purchase a minimum of six specimens , as they are naturally found in the wild in large shoals .
like most corys , c . seussi is most easily sexed when viewed from above . females are noticeably rounder and broader - bodied than females , especially when full of eggs .
very similar in appearance to c . gossei , seussi can be distinguished by its less rounded snout . it may also be referred to by its c - number , c027 .
whilst this is a species of corydoras that i am fortunate to have kept in recent years i was unable to persuade the fish to breed . whilst there are documented records for spawning the similar coloured corydoras gossei , i am not personally aware of any successful accounts for spawning corydoras seussi to date . i would however , envisage that when breeding these catfish would adopt the typical corydoras “t” clinch when mating , which involves the female transferring sperm from the male to her eggs held in her ventral fins prior to them being laid carefully on a chosen surface . it is documented and observed that the female takes the sperm from the male into her mouth which is then passed out of her vent and on to the eggs which she holds in small numbers between her ventral fins .
corydoras are identified by their twin rows of armour plates along the flanks and by having fewer than 10 dorsal fin rays . they are most commonly confused with the other genera in the sub - family , namely brochis , scleromystax and aspidoras . shares a similar colour pattern with corydoras gossei , which has a rounded snout .
corydoras seussi prefer to be kept in water which has a ph in the range of 6 . 5 - 7 . 2 ( although it has been known for this species to tolerate a much wider range of ph 6 . 0 - 8 . 0 ) , and hardness in the range of 2 . 0 - 25 . 0 dgh . this catfish is ideally suited to temperatures in the range of 22 - 26ºc .
these fish are armoured , not scaled , catfish . they have two rows of overlapping bony plates running down each side and large plates covering their head . indeed , the name corydoras is derived from the greek kory ( helmet ) and doras ( skin ) .
these fish are incredibly docile , very peaceful and are a wonderfully easy fish to own . however it is a remarkably little known fact that corydoras species have a very sharp barb just under each eye , one in the adipose fin , and a large one in the front of their dorsal fin .
the corydoras group of fish frequently gulps air . this is normal and is not a cause for concern . if too little room is available between the water surface and the hood ( < 2
) the fish may hit the hood . they hold the air in their stomach and the thin lining dissipates the oxygen .
very peaceful and suitable for many community tanks . don’t keep it with anything very large or aggressive . good tankmates include small characins , cyprinids , anabantoids , dwarf cichlids and other peaceful catfish . always try to maintain corydoras in groups as they’re far more confident and active in the presence of conspecifics . a group of at least 6 individuals is suggested .
what is also little known is that most species of corydoras have a poison gland in their barbs which causes fish which try to eat them to get stung . this causes the attacking fish to suffer a lot of pain rather like a jellyfish sting . needless to say this causes an annoying , but harmless , irritant to aquarists skin if they get stung also .
small side stream of rio pacas - novos , side branch of rio mimoré , near guajar - mirim , rondôndia , brazil .
cory = helmet , doras = skin . in this case it was incorrectly used to mean armour ( cuirasse ) instead of skin in allusion to the dual rows of plates that run along the flanks of this genus . this catfish was specifically named after ( dedicated to ) mr . werner seuss , a well known german aquarist and author .
70mm or 2 . 8
sl . find near , nearer or same sized spp .
the males tend to be slightly smaller and more slender than the females . the dorsal and pectoral fins of the males tend to be more pointed than those of the females . sexing of these catfish is easier when being viewed from above .
rio poranga a tributary of the upper rio negro and the mamore river basin .
suggested foods are high quality flake foods , sinking wafers , frozen blood worms , grindal worms , tubificid worms .
sandy bottom with an open swimming space lined with bogwood and plants to retreat into .
( 1 ) coryologist ( k : 12 ) , ( 2 ) coryman , ( 3 ) yan , ( 4 ) philtre , ( 5 ) angjo , ( 6 ) jollysue , ( 7 ) gem400 ( k : 4 ) , ( 8 ) corries , ( 9 ) reticulata , ( 10 ) bamboosticks ( k : 4 ) , who also notes :
big and confident fish .
, ( 11 ) tony57 , ( 12 ) jpod , ( 13 ) mark roesner , ( 14 ) gossei ( k : 5 ) , ( 15 ) aspidoras ( k : 7 ) , ( 16 ) valb68 ( k : 8 ) , ( 17 ) lee meadows , ( 18 ) sean b , ( 19 ) kamas88 ( k : 5 ) , ( 20 ) charliem9 , ( 21 ) amli , ( 22 ) krawallo ( k : 27 ) , who also notes :
homemade photos follow
, ( 23 ) per jensen , ( 24 ) matte s , ( 25 ) evojoey , ( 26 ) coolcorycats , ( 27 ) don kinyon ( k : 10 ) , ( 28 ) protopterus , ( 29 ) mexnotex . click on a username above to see all that persons registered catfish species . you can also view all
my cats
data for this species .
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urltoken
24″ x 15″ x 12″ ( 60cm x 37 . 5cm x 30cm ) – 71 litres .
use a substrate of fine sand and provide shelter in the form of smooth rocks and chunks of bogwood . areas of thick planting are also appreciated , as is the provision of some floating cover . also provide some surface turbulence and flow , as it prefers well - oxygenated water . as with all corys , don’t use undergravel filtration , and ensure the substrate is kept scrupulously clean , as these catfish are sensitive to poorly - maintained or dirty substrates and can lose their barbels if kept in poor conditions .
will accept most sinking dried foods , as well as small live and frozen varieties such as bloodworm , brine shrimp and chopped earthworm . feeding a varied diet will ensure the fish are in the best condition .
set up the breeding tank ( 18″ x 12″ x 12″ or similar is a good size ) , with either a bare bottom , sand or fine gravel substrate . use air - powered sponge or box - type filtration as fry won’t be sucked into these and provide some clumps of vegetation such as java moss . a temperature of around 75°f and a ph of 7 should be fine . it’s always better to have a higher ratio of males to females when breeding corys and 2 males per female is recommended . condition the group on a varied diet of live , frozen and dried foods . when the females are visibly full of eggs perform a large ( 50 - 70 % ) water change with cooler water , and increase oxygenation and flow in the tank . repeat this daily until the fish spawn .
it’s worth observing a couple of notes on general cory breeding at this point . many species are seasonal spawners , breeding during the wet season in their native countries . this occurs at the same time of year as the uk winter , so if summer breeding attempts are failing , it may be worth waiting until winter before trying again . also , some species can take several years to become sexually mature , so be patient . finally some species simply require different tactics , including timing of water changes , oxygenation levels etc . if you aren’t having any luck , don’t be afraid of trying different approaches .
if the fish decide to spawn , they will usually lay their eggs on the tank glass , often in an area where water flow is quite high . spawning behaviour is characterised by an initial increase in activity and excitement , before males begin to actively pursue females . a receptive female will allow a male to caress her with his barbels , before the pair take up the classic “t - position” , in which the male grasps the females barbels between his pectoral fin and body . he then releases some sperm and it’s thought that this passes through the mouth and gills of the female , being directed towards her pelvic fins . these she uses to form a ‘basket’ , into which she deposits a single egg ( although up to 4 may be released ) . once this is fertilised , she swims away to find a suitable place to deposit the egg , before the cycle is repeated . if you spawn the fish in a group situation , you will often see multiple males chasing a female as she goes to deposit an egg , in an effort to be the next chosen to fertilise eggs .
the adults will eat their spawn given the opportunity , so once spawning is complete you have 2 choices . either remove the adults and raise the brood in the same tank , or move the eggs and raise the fry elsewhere . if you decide to move the eggs , you’ll find they’re quite robust , and can usually be gently rolled up the glass with a finger . the new container should contain the same water as the spawning tank and be similarly well - oxygenated . wherever you decide to hatch the eggs , it’s always best to add a few drops of methylene blue to the water to prevent fungussing . even then some eggs will probably fungus , and these should be removed as soon as they’re spotted in order to prevent the fungus spreading .
the eggs hatch in 3 - 4 days and once the fry have used up their yolk sacs , they will accept microworm and brine shrimp nauplii as first foods . the fry seem to be less susceptible to disease when kept over a thin layer of sand , as opposed to in a bare - bottomed setup .
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the last month of 2006 brings another factsheet from our resident
guru
chris ralph and a look at a relatively new cory which has only been in the hobby for the last 10 years , and is coincidental in that scotcat will be celebrating 10 years next month also , so i will hand you over to chris to guide you along .
i would suggest a minimum size of 24” x 15” x 12” for a shoal of these fascinating catfish . the preferred substrate for keeping these catfish should be good quality aquarium sand such as bd aquarium sand , or very smooth rounded gravel in order to prevent their barbels from being damaged . the aquarium should provide some shelter in the form of rocks , bogwood and aquatic plants . as with all other species of fish , water quality and general husbandry is very important , and i would recommend that the aquarist undertake a minimum of 25 % water change on a fortnightly basis .
the base colour of the body is tan overlapped by a much darker coloured pigment which is slate grey / blue . the dorsolateral scutes are much darker exhibiting the slate grey / blue colour than the ventrolateral scutes which are tan coloured . the head region is overlaid with an orange to almost gold colour , which in natural sunlight is truly magnificent . the head area around the barbels and eyes is also overlaid with light coloured spots . the first rays of the dorsal , pectoral and ventral fins are orange in colour interspersed with some slate grey / blue colouration . the soft rays of the pectoral and ventral fins are orange in colour , whilst the remaining fins ( dorsal , anal , adipose and caudal ) are light ( white ) coloured with slate grey to black coloured almost stripy markings . the caudal fin has 5 - 6 distinct vertical black bands / stripes . in bright sunlight there is a green sheen which can be seen over the top half of the body of this catfish .
cory = helmet , doras = skin . this catfish was specifically named after ( dedicated to ) mr . werner seuss who is a well known german aquarist and author .
chris ralph ; 19 / 04 / 05 first published in tropical fish magazine june 2005 .
dorsolateral refers to the area above the lateral line and below the dorsal fin . ventrolateral refers to the area below the lateral line and above the ventral fins .
70mm s . l . - 7cm , - 2¾ins . ( standard length – this is the measurement of the fish from the tip of the snout to the base of the caudal peduncle ) .
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greek , kory = helmet + greek , doras = skin ( ref . 45335 )
freshwater ; demersal ; ph range : 6 . 0 - 8 . 0 ; dh range : 2 - 25 . tropical ; 22°c - 26°c ( ref . 13371 )
maturity : l m ? range ? - ? cm max length : 6 . 0 cm sl male / unsexed ; ( ref . 37395 )
reis , r . e . , 2003 . callichthyidae ( armored catfishes ) . p . 291 - 309 . in r . e . reis , s . o . kullander and c . j . ferraris , jr . ( eds . ) checklist of the freshwater fishes of south and central america . porto alegre : edipucrs , brasil . ( ref . 37395 )
phylogenetic diversity index ( ref . 82805 ) : pd 50 = 0 . 5000 [ uniqueness , from 0 . 5 = low to 2 . 0 = high ] .
bayesian length - weight : a = 0 . 01660 ( 0 . 00670 - 0 . 04111 ) , b = 2 . 94 ( 2 . 73 - 3 . 15 ) , in cm total length , based on lwr estimates for this ( sub ) family - body shape ( ref . 93245 ) .
trophic level ( ref . 69278 ) : 3 . 0 ±0 . 3 se ; based on size and trophs of closest relatives
resilience ( ref . 69278 ) : high , minimum population doubling time less than 15 months ( preliminary k or fecundity . ) .
vulnerability ( ref . 59153 ) : low vulnerability ( 10 of 100 ) .
confused by a class within a class or an order within an order ? please see our brief essay .
to cite this page : myers , p . , r . espinosa , c . s . parr , t . jones , g . s . hammond , and t . a . dewey . 2018 . the animal diversity web ( online ) . accessed at https : / / animaldiversity . org .
disclaimer : the animal diversity web is an educational resource written largely by and for college students . adw doesn ' t cover all species in the world , nor does it include all the latest scientific information about organisms we describe . though we edit our accounts for accuracy , we cannot guarantee all information in those accounts . while adw staff and contributors provide references to books and websites that we believe are reputable , we cannot necessarily endorse the contents of references beyond our control .
this material is based upon work supported by the national science foundation grants drl 0089283 , drl 0628151 , due 0633095 , drl 0918590 , and due 1122742 . additional support has come from the marisla foundation , um college of literature , science , and the arts , museum of zoology , and information and technology services .
usually when properly conditioned , the difference between the male and female corydora becomes quite evident . females have a larger underbelly , when viewed from the top will look a lot wider than a male . males are smaller in length than females also .
very peaceful community fish . will not intentionally bother tank inhabitants , however their bumbling about the tank may bother more delicate fish or other bottom dwellers . are best kept in groups of 5 - 6 or more .
, these fish will eat most food which sinks to the bottom of the tank . sinking
. vegetable - based foods offer little nutrition to them . they will also eat any dead , dying , or even injured fish , that sit on the substrate too long . they ' re very opportunistic !
these fish are most active at night , so feeding once before lights out is typically enough . though they can easily be persuaded to feed during the day . since they are slower eaters they should be allowed at least 30 minutes to consume their food .
requires a sand or small gravel substrate and prefers a planted tank . keeping a
, as with other scaleless fish , adding salt to the tank will cause them harm .
this fish likes the company of its own kind . it is recommended to keep at least 2 , or better yet , several of the same species . the more you have , the more secure they are and the more you will see them .
they are known to ' blink ' their eyes to the amazement of onlookers . the cory has the ability to tilt its eye down to examine the nearby substrate .
typical corydora in shape . this corydora has a cream belly with dark iridescent flanks . the caudal fin has dark bars .
the fish uses these barbs to protect itself from being swallowed by a larger fish . therefore when using a net to catch these fish , be prepared for the cory to become caught up in the mesh of the net . also , ensure you don ' t try to catch this fish in your hand !
the cory has a sensitive sense of smell and its barbels allow it to taste food hidden in the substrate .
this page was last edited on 13 december 2017 , at 03 : 16 .
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usual size in fish tanks : 5 - 7 cm ( 1 . 97 - 2 . 76 inch )
recommended water hardness ( dgh ) : 5 - 24°n ( 89 . 29 - 428 . 57ppm )
feed seuss’ corys with a quality flake or sinking pellets . algae wafers will be beneficial to these fish as are treats of brine shrimp and blood worms . always ensure these fish get there fair share of the food .
south america ; seuss’ corys are to be found in the waterways of brazil .
when viewed from above , the female will be slightly larger with a plumper body shape .
netting a fish pond will keep cats and birds away and your fish will be safe .
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the egyptian mouthbrooder ( pseudocrenilabrus multicolor ) is a species of cichlid .

this small mouthbrooder reaches about 8 cm ( 3.1 in ) in length , and is found in rivers , lakes , and other freshwater habitats in eastern africa from egypt and as far south as tanzania .

the common name egyptian mouthbrooder is often limited to its northern nominate subspecies , in which case the southern p. m. victoriae is called the dwarf victoria mouthbrooder .

the exact distribution limit between the two subspecies is unknown .

egyptian mouthbrooder

the egyptian mouthbrooder ( pseudocrenilabrus multicolor ) is unique in that it is the female that does the mouthbrooding .
the egyptian mouthbrooder is native to north - east africa and is widespread in this area . it was first imported to europe in 1902 . this species is also known as
dwarf victoria mouthbrooder
. the name multicolor means “many colors” .
common name : egyptian mouthbrooder , dwarf victoria mouthbrooder scientific name : pseudocrenilabrus multicolour synonyms : paratilapia multicolor , haplochromis multicolor , hemihaplochromis multicolor max size : 3 . 2 inch / 8 cm temperatur : 68 - 75˚f / 20 - 24˚c ph : 6 . 5 - 7 . 5
welcomme , r . l . 1973 .
observations on hemihaplochromis multicolor , the egyptian mouthbrooder
. buntbarsche bulletin . ( n . 37 ) , pp . 17 - 19 ( crc01542 )
one thing is certain , you must make sure you get the dwarf egyptian mouthbrooder , or they may list it mouthbreeder , the one with the mature size of 3 – 3 . 5 inches .
in summary , the egyptian mouthbrooder is probably the hardiest and most easily bred member of the entire genus pseudocrenilabrus . the ugandan mouthbrooder is somewhat more demanding , given its sensitivity to tank fouling and susceptibility to stress - induced systemic bacterial diseases . its brilliant coloration makes it well worth a little additional effort however . hopefully tank - reared fish will prove somewhat hardier than their wild progenitors , for this lovely little cichlid deserves the same wide popularity among hobbyists that its egyptian counterpart has always enjoyed .
the egyptian mouthbrooder , which originates from the nile river , will grow to 2 . 5 inches in length and is well suited for most community tanks . this small cichlid is very peaceful as long as its companions are too large for it to swallow .
for many decades , mouthbrooding in tropical fish was a limited and unique method of spawning . many thought only a few fish spawned in this manner . however , that was before the east african invasion of the 1960s and ‘70s , when the multitude of malawian mouthbrooders came into the hobby . now , when one mentions “cichlid , ” many people think of mouthbrooders . before the 1960s , when hobbyists mentioned “mouthbrooder , ” the little egyptian mouthbrooder ( pseudocrenilabrus multicolor ) or its close , brightly colored cousin , the southern egyptian mouthbrooder ( p . multicolor victoriae ) were the fish they were talking about . no other fishes with this behavior were commonly known to hobbyists .
the egyptian mouthbrooder it is also referred to as the haplochromis multicolor mouthbreeder . however , even though the descriptions of the fish are almost identical and i believe them to be the same fish , depending on the source you research , and how old that source is both names are correct .
all other varieties are huge 14 - 24 inches full grown and will absolutely destroy your aquarium ! the beauty of breeding the dwarf egyptian mouthbrooder is just how simple it can be to breed and keep this fish compared to just about any other egg laying fish that will care for its young .
the egyptian mouthbrooder will accept almost all food and can be feed flake food . you should strive to give them a varied diet . they do well on a base diet of flake food but i highly recommend complementing the diet with frozen food . these fishes really appreciate live food every now and then .
feeding : as a rule , the egyptian mouthbrooder eats anything it is given , they can live happy healthy lives even on straight flake food . however for best results breeding , feed insect larvae such as mosquito larva , red worm , daphnia , white worms or brine shrimp to condition this feeding should be frequent and heavy to encourage breeding activity .
the egyptian mouthbrooder is hardy little cichlid that is very suitable for beginners . it is easy to keep and breed . this cichlid used to be very common a few decades ago but have become increasingly rare over the year . you can still find it in stores from time to time but is not a part of the standard stock in most fish stores .
egyptian mouthbrooders can be kept in relatively small aquariums and a group can be kept in a 20 gallon / 90l tank . the aquarium should be decorated with densely planted areas as well as open areas , and the fish should be provided with plenty of suitably sized caves . at least one cave per fish is required . small split clay post and coconuts make good caves . it is a good idea to create natural territorial borders since some fish can be quite aggressive and natural territorial borders can help defuse this aggressiveness . egyptian mouthbrooders are suitable for community tanks with similarly sized fish that are though enough to tolerate the temperament if the egyptian mouth brooder . do not keep egyptian mouthbrooders with timid fish .
behavior : surprisingly peaceful for a cichlid . the dwarf egyptian mouthbrooder can be kept in a community aquarium with fish its own size , much like angel fish , another semi - peaceful cichlid . however like all cichlids , this fish becomes territorial and aggressive at breeding time , will damage or kill its own kind if more than its mate is in the aquarium when breeding commences .
it’s surprising that you don’t see the southern egyptian mouthbrooder for sale very often , considering their bright colors , peaceful demeanor and ease of spawning . if you come across this diminutive beauty , don’t hesitate to pick up a small group of them to add to a planted community tank . with proper care , you’ll be able to say that you’ve completed another successful adventure in fish breeding .
the egyptian mouthbrooder has been a staple of the aquarium hobby ever since its introduction by schoeller . until quite recently it was believed that the ugandan populations of p . multicolor were identical to those native to egypt and the sudan . in the spring of 1972 , ugandan fish were imported into the united states in quantity . they had been brought in sporadically somewhat earlier by german importers and distributed under the trade names
haplochromis kiravira
or
haplochromis kirawira .
as reference to the accompanying illustrations will indicate , the ugandan fish differ markedly in color pattern from the egyptian fish previously available to aquarists .
decades before there were african cichlids clubs , websites , and stores that specialize in all things african cichlid , there was only one , the egyptian mouthbreeder . well , there were others from the congo river , but the egyptian was the first of the class that would become african cichlids . you see they actually came from the part of the lakes famous for all the fish we classify as african cichlids today .
the egyptian mouthbrooder can tolerate temperatures as low as 13° c for short periods of time , while prolonged exposure to 16° c appears to do it no harm . since this cichlid ranges as far north as the nile delta , this is hardly surprising . data are lacking on tolerable minimum temperatures for the ugandan mouthbrooder . given its exclusively tropical distribution , it seems imprudent to expect a tolerance for temperatures lower than 18° c . both populations of p . multicolor can tolerate briefly temperatures as high as 32° c , but a range of 24° - 29° c is more appropriate for their aquarium maintenance . like other haplochromines , all pseudocrenilabrus eat more heavily , behave more aggressively and have a shorter developmental interval at the upper end of their preferred temperature range .
one of my small egyptian mouthbrooders with her few days old fry . she will guard and protect them with her life , well at least for a couple of days , and on the the third day she will eat them : - )
the status of these distinctive populations remains to be determined . for the present , i would suggest retaining the traditional egyptian mouthbrooder as a designation for the nilotic populations and utilizing the designation of ugandan mouthbrooder for those occurring south of murchison falls and the semliki rapids . the latter have been available through commercial channels under the trade names given earlier , as well as under the very misleading name of haplochromis fasciatus , which is properly that of a morphologically distinctive haplochromine native to the lower reaches of the congo river , many thousands of miles to the west of uganda . in several recent german publications ( mayland , 1978 ; richter , 1980 ) this fish has also been discussed under the name pseudocrenilabrus philander dispersus , a very different congener native to southern africa that will be discussed in the second portion of this article .
soon at about 3–4 weeks from when the eggs were first laid , the fry will venture off into the plants throughout the breeding tank . at this point , the female should be feed back to normal size and ready to go back into your community tank or where ever you keep the rest of your egyptian’s . use the breeding tank to raise the fry , 3–4 months later , you should have 30 or so very healthy 1 and 1 / 2 egyptian mouthbrooders ready to sell , or give to friends , and let them enjoy this wonder of nature !
welcomme ( 1973 ) reported that in nature , the number of free - swimming fry released by females of the ugandan mouthbrooder ranges from 17 for females in the 3 . 0 cm - 3 . 5 cm size range to 63 for females in the 5 . 6 cm - 6 . 0 cm range , a considerably smaller number than would be expected given the number of eggs typically spawned by females in these size classes . the same pattern is characteristic of the egyptian mouthbrooder in captivity . welcomme ascribes the discrepancy to wastage generated by relatively inefficient mechanisms of fertilization and brooding . insofar as partial cannibalism of her brood during incubation by an ovigerous female can be described as inefficient , i would concur with the latter hypothesis , but i consider it very unlikely that any eggs manage to escape fertilization given the combination of extra - and intra - buccal fertilization practiced by members of this genus .
hi kfenk , i saw your post and was just wondering how you went getting your egyptian mouthbrooders ? i ' ve recently acquired a pair and am raising my first brood . i ' m not sure how well they would travel , but id be happy to send some your way .
the 2 - inch female is the claim to fame for the southern egyptian mouthbrooder . this plain silvery fish with no other finery takes the eggs into her mouth upon completion of the spawning act and broods them in an area of specially modified throat tissue , known as a buccal pouch , until they hatch and for a while after . this brooding period can last two weeks or even longer , during which time she does not eat . this is probably an instinctual response to her brooding , so she won’t eat her own fry . her body slowly wastes away , while the growing fry in her mouth make her head look larger in proportion to her diminishing body . during the last stages of their development , the fry have grown large enough that the skin of the buccal pouch is stretched so thin and taut that you can make out the individual fry . you can see 100 small eyes looking back at you as the day of release draws close .
this species is very easy to breed and a perfect choice for anyone who want to breed their first cichlid or their first mouth brooder . condition the fish by giving them a good varied diet . increasing the temperature can help trigger spawning . they dig a hole in the sand where they spawn . the female will then take the eggs into her mouth where she will keep eggs and fry for about 10 days . once the fry is released they will retreat into the mothers mouth at night or when in danger during the next week or so . the female becomes very aggressive after spawning and if kept in a small aquarium the male has to be removed after spawning or the female might kill him . in larger aquariums , the male can stay but he will need good hiding places . each spawning only results in a small number of fry ; usually below 40 but in rare cases a spawning can result in up to 80 fry . egyptian mouthbrooder fry can be fed newly hatch brine shrimp from day 1 .
the southern egyptian mouthbrooders are diminutive cichlids that come to us from the upper reaches of the nile river and several vegetation - choked backwaters of its tributary streams just north of lake victoria . they spend their entire lives there among the stems of water lilies and other aquatic plants in shallow , slow - flowing or stagnant waters ; they are not found in open waters . keep this in mind when setting up an aquarium for them . they make excellent , colorful additions to the lower regions of a planted community tank .
at a maximum size of about 2 . 5 inches , this fish certainly qualifies as a dwarf cichlid . however , members of the genus pseudocrenilabrus are unique among dwarf cichlids , in that they are all maternal mouthbrooders . with a few exceptions , most other known dwarf cichlids are cave spawners . the colors of the male southern egyptian mouthbrooders are very bright and have made this fish popular for many decades . reminding the observer of a brightly colored bird , the male is lemon yellow , with bright blue lips and blue dots covering the rear half of his body and into his fins . his anal fin is often bright red , even from a young age when the other colors are still developing .
both forms of p . multicolor are in the hobby at present , though the ugandan mouthbrooder tends to be of sporadic and often very localized availability . interestingly , there tends to be a great preponderance of males among imported ugandan fish . as is typically the case with haplochromines , the males are by far the more colorful sex . the unbalanced sex ratios of imported ugandan mouthbrooders may reflect either ignorance of the true appearance of the female or alternatively , a reluctance to ship dull colored specimens that may not sell well . such a state of affairs is not unfamiliar to hobbyists who work with the endemic haplochromines of lake malawi . whatever its cause , it greatly hinders efforts to establish tank - reared populations of these cichlids , a fact which in my more cynical moments offers itself as another plausible explanation for the occurrence of such imbalances .
the slender fry of both populations can take the smallest artemia nauplii , micro - worms and finely powered prepared foods for their initial meal . they will not tolerate dirty or crowded tanks , but are otherwise easily reared . growth is relatively slow . welcomme reports that in nature , the ugandan mouthbrooder does not attain sexual maturity until the seventh month post - release , as 2 . 8 cm sl for males , 2 . 6 cm sl for females . in captivity , secondary sexual coloration becomes evident in males of both populations at c . 1 . 8 cm sl , a point in growth generally attained between the eighth and tenth week post - release . sexual maturity is attained between fourteen and sixteen weeks post - release , at lengths of 2 . 5 cm sl and 2 . 0 cm sl for males and females respectively .
within its chosen habitat , p . multicolor / uganda occurs over a wide range of substrata , ranging from sand and clay through mud with a very high content of organic matter . while emergent and floating aquatic plants are abundant in such habitats , submerged plants are not . blooms of green and blue - green algae are not uncommon , and the stems and leaves of aquatic plants generally support a rich diatom flora . the ugandan mouthbrooder forages for its food over the bottom and among the leaves and stems of aquatic plants . aquatic insect larvae appear to be staple items , but quantities of diatoms are also eaten . this may explain the intense golden yellow coloration seen in freshly imported specimens of p . multicolor / uganda . such coloration certainly seems to be strongly influenced by diet , for specimens i captured for photographic purposes during a visit to jinja , uganda in the spring of 1971 faded markedly within 24 hours of being placed in a holding tank .
like all their congeners , both populations of this species are tolerant of a wide range of water conditions . in nature , they typically occur in moderately hard , slightly alkaline water , but as long as he avoids extremes of either ph or hardness , the aquarist need not concern himself greatly about these aspects of water chemistry . stress induced by build - up of nitrogen cycle by - products is a more serious problem . the ugandan mouthbrooder is particularly sensitive to such pollution and must have good tank maintenance and a program of regular partial water changes if it is to prosper in captivity . both forms devour with gusto any of the usually available live and prepared foods . the golden yellow and red coloration of these cichlids is very sensitive to dietary influences . to maintain it at its fullest , the prudent aquarist will offer his specimens a diet rich in the appropriate precursor substances . the easiest way to get such supplements into these distinctly carnivorous little cichlids is to use one of the commercially available color enhancing foods .
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thank you for taking the time to provide feedback on the iucn red list of threatened species website , we are grateful for your input .
kraiem , m . , smith , k . & el gamal , a . r .
justification : this subspecies is only certainly known from egypt , where it is now regionally extinct . there is some taxonomic confusion over the correct subspecies for records from sudan , and it is therefore assessed as data deficient .
the subspecies is only positively known from the lower nile ( cloffa 1991 ) , however there have been no recent records and it is likely that this subspecies is now regionally extinct . there are records from the upper white nile , but whether these records belong to this subspecies or p . multicolor victoriae is not clear .
this fish probably occurs among submerged plants and in open water zones enclosed by papyrus swamps . it inhabits streams and ponds . it feeds on worms , crustaceans , insects , algae , vegetable fragments and small fish .
this subspecies is part of the aquarium trade . the level of captive breeding is unknown .
no information available . more research is needed into this subspecies ' population numbers and range , biology and ecology , habitat status and threats , as well as monitoring and potential conservation measures .
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gland , switzerland , 5 july 2018 ( iucn ) – australia’s unique reptiles – including lizards and snakes – face severe threats from invasive species and climate change , with 7 % of th . . .
the value of medicinal and aromatic plant trade has increased three - fold in the past 20 years , but traditional harvesting practices are being replaced by less sustainable alternatives . . . .
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rt fry in mouth , background proper breeding tank bottom set up , ct 10 gl tank , tr fry returning to mouth , bl fry exiting mouth , br thin mother after fry leave mouth .
when you see one today , you may wonder what all the fuss is about , the colors of the male , even at breeding time is not all that bright compared to the dullest of what we refer to as african’s today .
it is also the only fish that looked like this , and even though dull by today’s standards , the fish that inspired generations of aquarists’ to explore and breed and grow a whole genre of the freshwater aquarium hobby , the african cichlids of the great lakes of africa . quite a mighty little fish when you look at it that way !
sexual differences : males are larger and more colorful ; females are smaller and paler , with dark markings . males have red on the end of the anal fin and rainbow like colors on their bodies in full breeding mode .
water : 72 f – 81 f ph 7 ; 10 – 15 dh , however , these fish are not very picky when it comes right down to it and not much special attention must be taken to reach exact water conditions for successful breeding activities .
tank set up : keep in a relatively small tank , as small as 5 – 10 gallons for a breeding tank . use a sand bottom with live aquarium plants around the outer rim ( sides and the back leaving the middle and front of the tank open and clear ) . have a rock formation that creates an arch or cave that the pair can swim through . for best results introduce 2 well - fed females and 1 well - fed male . remove the male and the female that does not have a full mouth after breeding takes place .
note : this is the extreme of what is needed , these fish are so prolific , they often breed in the fish store , with 30 fish crowded into a 10 gallon tank , hundreds of people walking past tapping on the tank , and a bare bottom , but do the above for best and 100 % assured results .
water conditions are not critical , the temperature is best at what is always best for most tropical fish , 78f .
a small private tank is best , i suggest a 10 gallon ( not that they need that much space to breed , but the fry will need the space to grow up ) . these fish will actually start breeding when they are as small as 1 and ½ inches long , so no matter how small they are when you get them , they are probably ready to breed .
the first step is to feed them heavily on frozen blood worms , brine shrimp and if you can find it , daphnia . this is necessary to fatten up the female so she does not starve during the mouthbrooding period , remember she will not eat as much as a scrap for at least 3 weeks ; it is also to mature the eggs and sperm within the male and female before breeding .
the live or frozen food feeding also will “color up” the males , so you can tell males from females , remember the male will be much more colorful than the plane female , and have red on its tale , if you have several males the dominate male will always be the most colorful , the best female being the fattest ( most full of row ) . you really do not have to do anything with these fish at this point , nature will take its course , their instincts are strong to reproduce , and they do it whenever they can . think guppy of the egg layer world .
50 to 100 eggs are deposited in a shallow pit in the sand in the open area on the bottom of the tank , 5 - to 10 at a time . after each batch is deposited the male fertilizes them and the female scoops them up in her mouth , and deposits 5 - 10 more , and repeat . as soon as you can see that all spawning activity is finished , all fish except the female with the full jaw should be removed from the breeding tank .
the mouth of the female is enlarged , stretched , and the mouth walls are thin so that the eggs can actually be seen in the mouth through the skin of the sides of her mouth . you will see her constantly “chewing” , she does this to keep the eggs aerated , and free of debris and fungus . her mouth gets bigger and bigger and her body shrinks for 2 - 3 weeks .
the fry will return to mom’s mouth frequently , this is normal , at first all the time , later just when startled , or always at night . do not think she is about to eat them , this is the part of nature you are getting the rare chance to glimpse , not many people get to see this first hand , enjoy it , video it , put it on youtube for others to enjoy . today it is a rare treat to see these fish in action .
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this species can be kept in pairs or in harems with one male and 3 - 4 females .
this species is hardy but it is still important to keep the water quality as high as possible . the ph should be kept around 7 ( 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 ) and the temperature in the 68 - 75˚f / 20 - 24˚c range . soft to medium hard water is to be preferred .
this species is very easy to sex . males are larger and much more colorful . females are smaller and colorless , one might even say dull . the males have red spots on the caudal fin which are not present on females .
unlike the better - known female mouthbrooding cichlids of lake malawi , which release their fry in the shallows and then move on , this tiny mother will continue to protect her fry for several days after release . she provides them a shelter at night and whenever danger threatens . after a couple of days , it is almost comical to see the nearly 100 juveniles try to dash back to their mother’s mouth when you walk up to the tank . i’ve seen so many juveniles that outgrew their mother’s mouth still trying so hard to get in that there were tails sticking out of her mouth and heads protruding from her gills – with even more trying to get in . this is why , for the mother’s health , it’s best to remove her as soon as she releases the fry and give her a couple days to recover before moving her back to the main tank .
caring for these unique dwarf cichlids is straightforward . they are undemanding about water parameters , and will live and breed under most aquarium conditions , as long as the water is clean ( low dissolved organics , low nitrates , and no ammonia or nitrites ) . in other words , do those water changes regularly . they don’t seem to require a specific temperature , so aim for somewhere in the mid - to upper - 70 degrees fahrenheit , without worrying about being too exact . they are not aggressive with other fishes , but males may fight amongst themselves . you can maintain a group of one or two males and several females in a planted community tank , where they will happily go about their business without bothering other fish or digging up the plants .
there is no need to set up a special spawning tank for them . if they are well - fed and happy in the community tank , they will spawn regularly among the other fish . for spawning , the males only require an area of open gravel or sand about 3 inches in diameter . here , they will excavate a shallow , round pit and court the females . the male will put on his brightest colors and swim up to the females , doing a little dance and trying to entice them back to his pit . he flicks his fins and arches his back while shivering and shaking . if the dance impresses the female and she follows him back to his pit , he begins circling the pit , shaking and dragging his bright red anal fin on the bottom .
a receptive female will then enter the dance in the pit . she will begin to follow in the circling behavior , nipping at the male’s side near his bright red anal fin . after a few minutes , she begins laying a few eggs , picking them up in her mouth and biting at the red anal fin of the male . he releases his milt and fertilizes the eggs in her mouth . this process is repeated until the female lays about 80 to 100 eggs . the female then moves off to quietly begin her brooding period as described above . the male will head off , looking for other females . no pair bond is formed .
if possible , gently remove the female to her own 5 - to 10 - gallon tank to brood her young in peace . a couple of females can share a brooding tank as long as each has her own cave to hide in when needed .
feeding is also fairly straightforward . both the adults and the fry appear to be omnivores and will eat just about anything you offer . remember that their mouths are small , so provide appropriately sized foods . after release , the young will grow quickly on a mixed diet of newly hatched brine shrimp and finely crushed flake foods . at about 6 months of age , they will have reached adult size , and within a year , they will be spawning on their own . you should move females that have just released their fry to a separate container for a few days to recuperate . feed them things like worms and protein - rich food , so they can quickly regain their weight — as soon as you return them to the main tank , the males will likely begin courting again .
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it is found in streams , ponds and lake tributaries . the water is usually slow - moving or completely still , and the fish are commonly found around the stems of aquatic plants or under cover of floating vegetation .
24″ x 15″ x 12″ ( 60cm x 37 . 5cm x 30cm ) – 71 litres is suitable for a pair . a larger tank is needed for a harem .
the tank should contain plenty of hiding places . clay pot caves , roots and pieces of driftwood can all be used . plants are not essential but the fish will appreciate the additional cover . a sand or fine gravel substrate is best as the male will dig when spawning .
will accept most foods . a good quality cichlid pellet can be fed as staple , but ensure the diet is varied with regular feedings of live and frozen foods .
can be aggressive towards other species inhabiting the lower reaches of the aquarium . if you wish to keep it with other dwarf cichlids , catfish , loaches etc . you will need a large tank . in smaller aquaria good tankmates include african tetras and small surface dwelling species such as hatchetfish . male fish are very aggressive towards one another and only one should be kept in a harem situation with several females .
males tend to be a little larger than females and are more colourful , especially when breeding .
quite easy . maternal mouth - brooder . the breeding aquarium should be set up as suggested above . the fish will breed over a fairly wide range of water parameters . aim for a ph of around 7 . 0 and a temperature of 75°f and you should be fine . try and purchase a single male fish and 3 - 4 females . if this is not possible get a group of 6 - 8 young fish and allow things to develop naturally . if the fish are conditioned on a high quality diet of frozen and live foods they should come into breeding condition quite quickly .
when in condition the male will excavate a shallow pit in the substrate . from here he will display to females , attempting to entice them to spawn with him . the male can be quite forceful in his seduction attempts and this is why it is preferable to spawn this species in a harem situation as the male’s attention is divided .
when a female is willing she will follow the male to his pit , where spawning occurs . the act itself is preceded by a display of circling by both fish . the male will nuzzle the vent of the female , and it may be this that triggers her to release the eggs . as the eggs are laid the female immediately picks them up with her mouth and then mouths the vent of the male , who releases some milt directly into the mouth of the female . sometimes fertilisation occurs before the female picks up the eggs as the fish circle quite quickly . the male has an orange spot on his anal fin and it has been hypothesised that this may act as a kind of ‘dummy egg ‘ to attract the female to his vent . however if the fish are watched closely it appears this may not be the case , as the vent of the male is not actually very close to the ‘ egg spot ‘ , and the female tends to mouth the vent itself . this sequence is repeated until the female is holding 5 - 100 eggs in her buccal cavity .
the female will hold the brood for around 10 days , at which point the free swimming fry are released . they can be fed brine shrimp nauplii , microworm and powdered dried foods from this point .
this species was one of the first cichlid species to be spawned in captivity and has been in the hobby for over a century . it is less popular than it once was but remains a good choice for the beginner as it is tolerant of a wide range of water conditions and is easily bred .
there currently exist 2 subspecies , pseudocrenilabrus multicolor multicolor and p . m . victoriae . these are quite distinct in terms of colouration and patterning and exist as separate populations in nature . both subspecies are available in the hobby , though p . m . victoriae is less common . they should not be kept together in aquaria in order to prevent hybridisation .
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iv started to grow quite an interest in these fish as of late but have come to a sort of brick wall . is it true that they were around in abundance some time ago ? because now ( well in sa that is ) they have completely disappeared . no one i know here in sa has seen them in quite a long time . i would like to find out more info on the little beauties as i am interested in breeding them . so if anyone can share experiences with breeding them and if someone could kindly point me in the right direction to find some it would be much appreciated im not trying to post this thread as a wtb , just wanting to find out more about them .
i bred several hundred and sold them to bayfish . they were at a recent cichlid society auction , so they are around . they will breed in the bag on the way from the lfs so dont present any difficuly in breeding , they are a nice fish . sorry i dont have them any more
thanks for the info . hmmmm too bad you dont have them anymore , they look to be a great fish . i guess the search continues !
they are a nice fish but fell out with hobbyists when imports from malawi and tanganyika began . when i was a kid , they were extremely interesting since they were the first mouthbrooding fish i had seen for sale . other fish that are hardly mentioned these days are nanacara transvestitus , moonlight gouramies , paradise fish , medakas [ killifish ] , ruby barbs , splash tetras and many more , still around but never ' pushed ' by retailers . a pair of blue gouramies , placed in an outdoor tub or pond and left to their own devices , can produce hundreds of fish by the end of summer . albino paradisefish can be kept without filtration or heat and are amazingly beautiful when hit by a ray of sunlight . i placed a pair of ruby barbs in a vase 40cm high and 20cm diameter with a clump of java moss . they spawned next morning so i removed them . a month or so later , the cylinder was literally filled with barbs . . . . no filter or any help except powdered flake food . when you see ruby barbs in the shop they look so ordinary it ' s hard to believe the intense colour they turn when happy in a planted tank , yet we never hear about anyone keeping them on this forum . ; (
wow that ' s a lot of nice fish . you just made me to give google a good old thrashing lol . but yeah iv had a long conversation with an old lfs owner and its amazing how many fish are now lost to the hobby . it seems the lake tanganyikan cichlids are the new
in
fish at the moment . i wonder what other fish people miss from their childhood days . hmmm would make an interesting thread . . . .
i have always wanted to get these guys and much to my surprise i scored 1 . 3 from my local fish shop for a very reasonable price , mrs also got herself an african butterfly fish ( she loves oddball fish ) so when they settle in a west african tank is in order
i would be very interested in these fish as well . i just did a bit of online research & they sound wonderful . if anyone knows of any in brisbane i ' d be very interested . thanks
can ' t remember now sorry , was a few years ago and had quite a few tank setups since then . . .
coburg had them in stock recently according to their online shop . i came across it when contemplating a group - order buy - in . they must have sold out now as i can ' t find it ( it was about 2 weeks ago ) so i guess they are out there somewhere .
snoeks , j . ( freshwater fish red list authority ) & darwall , w . ( freshwater biodiversity assessment programme )
lakes albert , victoria , kyoga , george , nabugabo , and the swamp lakes kachira , kijanebola and nakavali which lie between lakes edward and victoria ( skelton in daget et . al . 1991 ) .
probably occurs among submerged plants and in open water zones enclosed by papyrus swamps .
conversion of swamps for various purposes might endanger members of the species in those habitats . agriculture may lead to erosion and increase water turbidity . no serous threats identified in the lake habitats .
pam chin has been replying to cichlid questions for over twenty years . highly respected and experienced aquarist , pam has visited cichlid habitats around the world , and bred in her ' s and her husband gary fish house hundreds of cichlid species . besides her job , she still devotes time to help any person with a cichlid question !
articles for sale beautifully formatted and wonderfully illustrated pdf articles about all matters relative to cichlids .
books for sale cichlid books and dvds for sale at the cichlid room companion .
e - books for sale pdf copies of popular cichlid books offered for sale at the best price .
trade section the master list of cichlid offers ordered by area and species name .
( this article was originally published in freshwater and marine aquarium magazine , jan 1982 ; pp . 30 - 35 , 59 - 63 . it is here reproduced with the permission of author dr . paul v . loiselle ) .
until very recently , the species of this genus were placed in the genera haplochromis or hemihaplochromis . while contemporary ichthyologists accept the conclusion of wickler ( 1963 ) that these cichlids are generically distinct from haplochromis , they are barred by the provisions of the international code of zoological nomenclature from utilizing the name he proposed for this assemblage of haplochromines . trewavas ( 1973 ) has established the synonymy of the genera pseudocrenilabrus fowler 1934 and hemihaplochromis wickler 1963 , and under the rule of priority , the older published name is the scientifically correct one for the genus . though some recent reference works ( goldstein , 1973 ; mayland , 1978 ; staeck , 1975 , 1977 ) have incorporated the new nomenclature in their treatment of these cichlids , for many readers this essay will be in large measure a review of some familiar fishes sporting an unfamiliar generic name . for the benefit of those aquarists inclined to fume about
arbitrary
changes in the scientific names of fishes , i will attempt to present the history of the events leading up to the present situation . this will , hopefully , provide a useful example of how such taxonomic problems arise and are resolved .
in 1934 , the late henry w . fowler published a report on a series of marine and fresh - water fishes from natal and zululand in south africa . in this paper , he described a new genus of wrasse , pseudocrenilabrus , based upon a single specimen . here matters rested until 1963 , when dr . james boehlke of the philadelphia academy of science informed dr . ethelwyn trewavas , then on a visit to the united states , that he believed the holotype of this wrasse to be a cichlid . his suspicions were confirmed when trewavas examined the entity in question and found it to be a specimen of the fish originally described by the german ichthyologist weber in 1897 as chromis philander and widely referred to in the subsequent literature as haplochromis philander . in charity let us assume that in this instance fowler was aided in his confusion of the families cichlidae and labridae by a faulty locality label !
the genus comprises three nominal species , though its actual taxonomic situation is considerably more complex than this would , on the surface , suggest . one species , pseudocrenilabrus philander , comprises a complex of distinctive , geographically separate populations , all enjoying some degree of reproductive isolation . another , p . multicolor , consists of two highly distinctive , quite possibly specifically distinct populations . whether such populations are best treated as species , subspecies or simply left without formal taxonomic designation is a question only further research can satisfactorily resolve . but , as several of them have been introduced as aquarium fish , aquarists must confront a highly plastic and potentially confusing situation . killifish fanciers have learned to live with comparable situations as a matter of course and i think that cichlid enthusiasts working with pseudocrenilabrus would do well to borrow a few points of procedure from them .
though these are small cichlids , rarely exceeding 10 . 0 cm sl in nature , sexually active males display a level of aggressiveness quite out of proportion to their size . a male 4 . 0 cm sl is easily capable of totally monopolizing an area 60 cm square , to the extreme discomfiture of any fish daring to venture into the lower half of the water column . in practical terms , this translates into one male / 80 1 aquarium at any stocking density under a single fish / liter of tank volume . at lower densities , a linear dominance hierarchy will emerge among males , with the dominant fish eventually liquidating those beneath him in the peck order . yet this belligerence cannot entirely cancel out the fact that these fish , while falling outside of my definition of a dwarf cichlid on behavioral grounds ( loiselle , 1979 , 1980 ) , do fall into the dwarf category with regard to size . taken with the apparent inability of males to exercise any discernible degree of discretion in their choice of targets , this sharply limits the selection of possible tank - mates for any pseudocrenilabrus species .
many aquarists make the error of trying to keep pseudocrenilabrus in the company of haplochromis species or even of mbuna . the consequences are invariably disastrous . both sexes of the smaller pseudocrenilabrus tend to be out - competed at feeding , while females come in for a great deal of general harassment at all times . efforts by males to hold a territory bring them into conflict with haplochromis males that are both absolutely larger and whose jaws are disproportionately bigger in the bargain . those males pseudocrenilabrus that are not seriously injured in outright conflicts lose condition in the face of continued aggression by their larger relatives , eventually to fall prey to stress induced systematic bacterial infections . given that their habitat preferences rarely bring them into association with sympatrically occurring haplochromis species in nature , such an outcome is not surprising . yet , when the sorry progress has run its full course , the culpable aquarist typically blames the pseudocrenilabrus for lack of hardiness , condemns the genus to perdition , and resolves to steer clear of its species in the future . in reality , his unfortunate experiences are the fault of his own ignorance of the behavioral limitations of these cichlids and could have been easily prevented .
the spawning behavior of pseudocrenilabrus multicolor from egypt . the male actively displays to passing females from a previously excavated pit ( 1 ) . a ripe female eventually responds to his displays by following him into its confines ( 2 ) . the pair then begins a period of reciprocal circling ( 3 - 5 ) , which is accompanied by mutual vent nudging . the gentle butting of the female ' s vent by the male ( 6 ) seems to trigger oviposition . the female picks up the eggs immediately ( 7 ) , then turns to follow the male ( 8 & 9 ) . as she does so , she nudges his vent ( 10 ) . fertilization appears to occur at this point . note that her mouth is oriented towards the male ' s vent , not towards the orange - red spot on the tip of his anal fin ( 11 ) . this sequence is repeated ( 12 - 15 ) until the bulging jaw of the female ( 16 ) indicates that she is spent .
the olive to beige , somewhat pyriform ova measure c . 2 . 5 mm along with their major axis . they can number from 6 to over 100 , depending upon the size and condition of the female . the developmental interval for these fish is 10 days at 29° c . ovigerous females are exemplary mothers and will carry to full term even in a community situation . however , if the objective is to save any fry , the hobbyist should move such females into a separate nursery tank , set up in the manner indicated for ovigerous female haplochromis ( loiselle , 1978 ) . the fry measure 6 . 5 mm - 7 . 5 mm sl upon release . while the female will continue to protect her offspring for several days following their initial release , such efforts are invariably futile in a community setting and superfluous in the privacy of a nursery tank .