the dhamra port ( odia : ଧାମରା ବନ ଦର ) is a newly developed port in bhadrak district , odisha , india , on the shore of the bay of bengal about seven kilometers from the old port of dhamra .

the agreement to develop the port was signed in april 1998 .

the dhamra port company limited ( dpcl ) was formed as a result of a 50:50 joint venture between larsen & toubro and tata steel to run the port .

the port received its first vessel on 8 february 2010 and the first commercial vessel on 10 april 2011 .

the port has an initial capacity of 25 million tonnes annually , eventually growing to 80 million tonnes annually .

greenpeace has opposed the project , claiming it threatens nearby protected areas and endangered species such as the olive ridley turtle

dhamra port

dhamra port is owned by gautam adani - led adani port and sez ltd .
dhamra port , which became commercially operational in may , received the . . .
dhamra port officials did not respond to phone calls when efforts were made to contact them .
petroleum minister dharmendra pradhan inagurates the dhamra - paradip lng terminal ground breaking ceremony at dhamra in odisha . | photo credit : biswaranjan rout
adani ports is country ' s largest port operator with its flagship mundra port in gujarat being the largest commercial port in india .
“local people ransacked the port offices , damaged furniture and computers and torched vehicles , ” subhasis mishra , a spokesman for dhamra port co . ltd , told
to build and operate the port on dhamra river in bhadrak district for 34 years , including four years for construction .
situated between haldia and paradeep , dhamra port is well sheltered between the mainland and kanika sands island on the mouth of the river dhamra . the location of dhamra is in close proximity to the mineral belt of orissa , jharkhand and west bengal and its dedicated connectivity will help serve this hinterland with the greatest efficiency
a senior odisha government official said , the port has achieved break even with a profit of rs 180 crore in 2016 - 17 . dhamra port’s total earnings crossed rs 900 crore in the last financial year with the port paying rs 75 crore as revenue share to the state government . a concession agreement signed with dhamra port company ltd ( dpcl ) , the special purpose vehicle ( spv ) . . .
dhamra , a deep - draught port off the coast of north odisha owned by adani ports & special economic zone ( apsez ) has turned profitable after nearly six years . the port had kicked off commercial operations in may 2011 .
that’s not why things don’t appear rosy for dhamra port . it was envisioned as early as the 1980s but concrete proposals trickled in only during the early 1990s . a concession agreement was signed between the government of orissa and international seaports private limited ( ispl ) on april 2 , 1998 to expand and develop the minor port of dhamra .
dhamra port handles coal , iron ore and other minerals , bhattacharya said , adding that it would handle different types of cargo in the coming days . the company expects 15 - 20 per cent increase in cargo at the port in this financial year .
the port handles imports of coking coal and limestone . it is owned by the adani group conglomerate’s adani port and special economic zone ltd . reuters
at least four labourers were killed and three injured when a heap of coal collapsed on them at adani group managed dhamra port in odisha ' s bhadrak district on tuesday , witnesses said .
apsez has completed the acquisition of 100 per cent stake in the dhamra port company limited from l & tidpl ; and tata steel ,
it said in a filing to the bse .
the olive ridley is one of the world’s seven remaining sea turtle species , and is vulnerable to extinction at a global level . committed to understanding if a port could be built in the area without harming the turtles , dhamra port company limited ( dpcl ) requested the advice of iucn to mitigate the impact of the port’s development on the turtles .
the port handled 14 . 3 million tonnes of cargo in 2013 - 14 .
riyadh dry port 3d animation ( for contact : dompower @ gmail . com )
4 , 013 acres for port on mainland and 3 , 000 acres for railroad . ancillary industries — shipbuilding yard , steel plant and port - based fertilizer plant
the dhamra port acquisition now gives us an opportunity to replicate the development and phenomenal growth of the mundra port on the eastern coast of india , and thereby continue to execute on our pan - india strategy ,
gautam adani , chairman of the adani group has said last month .
when he went to see the injured at the hospital situated in the port premises .
they also barged into the port premises and torched the main gate and ransacked the office .
at least 15 years experience in construction management of port , jetties , breakwater . . .
an equal joint venture between l & t idpl and tata steel , dhamra port company ltd ( dpcl ) was commissioned in may 2011 with an 18 - km approach channel and a dedicated 62 . 7 km rail link to bhadrak .
new delhi : adani ports and special economic zone ( apsez ) said that it has completed the acquisition of dhamra port in odisha from tata steel and l & t ; infrastructure development projects ( l & t ; idpl ) on monday .
an equal joint venture between l & t ; idpl and tata steel , dhamra port company ltd ( dpcl ) was commissioned in may 2011 with an 18 - km approach channel and a dedicated 62 . 7 km rail link to bhadrak .
the construction of dhamra port project , promoted jointly by tata steel and l & t ; in orissa , will start soon after monsoon , tata steel chairman , b muthuraman told fe on the sidelines of tata steel agm on wednesday in mumbai .
the eastern part of india is one of the least developed areas of the country , despite being one of the most resource rich . in early 2000 , expanding links between the indian and global economies brought opportunities for the development of the area , but a deep port was needed to support this growth . the government of odisha identified dhamra to be the most suitable location , and the development of the port was taken up by the dhamra port company ltd ( dpcl ) , a 50 : 50 joint venture of tata steel and construction giant larsen & toubro ( l & t ) .
apsez represents a large network of ports with india’s largest sez at mundra . apsez port business is integral to its logistics business and is india’s largest private port operator with presence across 10 locations .
sanjiv gopal , greenpeace india ' s oceans & climate campaign manager , told greenport magazine that there are a number of problems associated with the port developments . “firstly , along orissa’s short coastline of 480km , there are a total of over 10 ports proposed , in addition to the two existing and operational ports at paradip and gopalpur , and the dhamra port , which is currently under construction . this means roughly one port development every 40km . ”
work is continuing on the port that , when ready , will handle ships that are classified as super capesize , that is , those ships that displace about 180 , 000 dead - weight tonnes ( dwt ) . at 18 metres , dhamra port is laying claims to being the deepest port channel in india . though currently , berthing facilities for only two ships are being constructed , the port master plan envisages “13 berths , capable of handling more than 83 million metric tonnes per annum of dry bulk , liquid bulk , break bulk and containerised cargo” .
also , only those lines which are 20 km or more in length excluding siding , shall be considered under the policy . the dhamra port is located 62 km away from the mainline network of the indian railways but the total track length will be about 120 km because of loops and sidings and various additional facilities . the port has acquired a 125 - metre wide corridor from dhamra to bhadrak which can accommodate two rail tracks and a four lane road along with service lines viz . transmission line and pipe lines . trains will run up to dhamra terminal yard ( dty ) wherein handing over and taking over of rakes will take place between indian railways and dpcl .
india : the first line built under the government ' s railways infrastructure for industry initiative to attract private finance for rail projects opened on may 8 , when a train of australian coal left the new port of dhamra for tata steel ' s jamshedpur plant .
dhamra is one of the deep draft ports of india with a draft of 18 meters , which can accommodate super cape - size vessels up to 180 , 000 dwt . it is an all - weather , multi - user , multi - cargo port with a potential to handle more than 100 mmtpa of dry bulk , liquid bulk , break bulk , containerised and general cargo . the dhamra port company limited ( dpcl ) is a 100 % subsidiary of adani ports and sez . dpcl has been awarded a concession by government of odisha to build and operate a port north of the mouth of river dhamra in bhadrak district on boost ( build , own , operate , share and transfer ) basis for a total period of 34 years including a period of 4 years for construction . it is poised to become the largest and most efficient port in the east coast of india .
the expansion will allow the dhamra port to exceed 100 million tonnes of cargo capacity by the year 2020 and therefore allow adani ports to fulfil its stated vision of becoming a 200 million tonne ports business well before the year 2020 ,
it has said .
the rail connectivity to orissa ' s dhamra port , a joint venture between tata steel and larsen & toubro , will be first such connectivity project in the country under the indian railways ' new r3i policy ( railways ' infrastructure for industry initiative ) , it is learnt .
the dhamra port company limited ( dpcl ) is a 50 : 50 joint venture of l & t ; and tata steel . dpcl has been awarded a concession by government of orissa to build and operate a port north of the mouth of river dhamra in bhadrak district on boost ( build , own , operate , share and transfer ) basis for a total period of 34 years including a period of 4 years for construction . the lease period may be renewed or extended for two additional periods of 10 years each on mutually agreed terms and conditions . situated between haldia and paradeep , the port at dhamra will be the deepest port of india with a draught of 18 meters , which can accommodate super cape - size vessels up to 180 , 000 dwt . the master plan provides for 13 berths , capable of handling more than 83 million mt per annum of dry bulk , liquid bulk , break bulk and containerized cargo .
a tata steel and l & t ; joint venture was formed in october 2004 for a greenfield port at dhamra in orissas bhadrak district on the eastern coast . on the issue of environment clearances , he said the company will get all the clearances required to start the project .
a corporate agenda for apsez to deliver overarching principle of tipple bottom - line . adani ports is striving to become green port by managing port operations and services responsibly , creating safe , secure and eco - friendly working environment .
the dhamra port — joint venture between larsen & toubro and tata steel — has been commissioned after many years of environmental protests over allegations that the port was situated on protected forest land . situated at the mouth of the river dhamra in bhadrak district , the rs . 3500 crore project will have 13 berths after the final phase of construction is completed in 2014 . the port has already handled 2 . 07 mt of imported cargo , mostly coking coal and limestone . iron ore exports will start in a couple of weeks . at full capacity , the port will be able to handle 100 mt of cargo . wildlife groups have protested against the port since the 1990s , on account of its proximity to the bhitarkanika ( 5 km away ) , the second largest mangrove forest and the last stronghold of the salt water crocodile , and gahirmatha protected areas , one of the world’s largest olive ridley sea turtle nesting grounds ( 15 km away ) . activists have alleged that the bright lights from the port will disorient turtles congregating near gahirmatha .
our customers are the most important element of port . the state - of - the - art technology driven infrastructure , coupled with high level of automation and intense focus on time management in port and vessel operations ensures delighted customers .
apsez is the seamless integration of 3 verticals consisting of ports , logistics and special economic zone . the company has pan india presence in ten locations with the flagship mundra port in the gulf of kachchh , also india’s largest commercial port .
bhubaneshwar : a port in odisha stopped operations on tuesday after violence erupted inside the complex following the death of three workers who were killed when a heap of coal collapsed on top of them , a spokesman for the port operator said .
a hundred and fifty kilometres from bhubaneswar , and seven kilometres north of the tiny fishing town of dhamra , a rough , unpaved road ends in a beehive of construction . on the horizon , lights blink through the night as dredgers clear the way for a shipping channel . close by at the sprawling site , engineers are working on giant conveyor belts that will become active when the dhamra port company limited ( dpcl ) , a 50 : 50 joint - venture between tata steel and larsen & toubro , becomes operational next year .
in may , apsez had executed a pact with both the companies to acquire the port for about rs 5 , 500 crore .
it is not just marine wildlife that is being threatened by the vast number of indian port projects . photo : greenpeace / sumer verma
angry labourers burnt the port’s main gate , three offices , an oil tanker and vehicles , police at the spot in bhadrak in odisha .
the 62 km single track line serving the east coast port has been developed on a revenue sharing basis between ir and chamra port co , a 50 : 50 joint venture of larsen & toubro and tata steel which holds a 34 year concession to build and operate the deepwater facility .
the mundra port handles timber logs of different kinds for different customers . it has earmarked a storage area capable of 350 , 000mt timber storage .
firstly , the orissa government has submitted a revised proposal for a port at barunei muhan in kendrapara district to the ministry of environment & forests ( moef ) . the ministry had previously asked the state government to redraw the limits of the proposed port , as the site came within the gahirmatha marine wildlife sanctuary .
the maritime and port authority of singapore ( mpa ) is focusing on digitalisation and renewables project in order to keep ahead of the competition . . . .
the dhamra port authorities say they are not insensitive to environmental concerns . “we have followed all requirements laid out in the eia and we are implementing all the measures suggested by the iucn . we acknowledge that a few turtles might be found in the waters . we are taking extreme precautions while dredging . we will install permanent shielding for our lights in the final phase of construction , ” says santosh k mohapatra , ceo of the port project . dpcl has appointed an official to monitor the environmental parameters of the project and to share information with the relevant authorities .
this time it is environmentalists who are leading the noisy protest . they allege the dhamra port will endanger the gahirmatha beach , just 15 kilometres due south . this is one of the world’s largest nesting sites for the endangered olive ridley turtle . it is part of the bhitarkanika national park , the second - largest protected mangrove swamp in the country and home to another endangered species — the salt water crocodile .
“we do not want to disturb the surrounding morphology . we want a stable shoreline . it is a simple analogy — if our vehicle pollutes less , i get more mileage . the port is completely natural with the channel being flushed naturally by the outflow from the dhamra river , and the kanika sands ( a large sandbar about two km offshore ) is a natural breaker . even our piers are the dolphin type , that is pillars , to avoid littoral disturbance , ” insists mohapatra . on the issue of port lighting , while dpcl says it will implement all recommendations to ensure that the turtles are not affected , it has no responsibility to regulate any allied infrastructure , industry and development that comes up due to the port .
if the plan comes to fruition , dhamra might become the biggest port in india . currently the ports handling the highest annual tonnage , according to the indian ports association , are kolkata , visakhapatnam , chennai , mumbai and kandla . visakhapatnam maxed in 2007 - 08 at 64 . 5 million metric tonnes . it can handle six ships of up to 150 , 000 dwt , while boasting a channel whose depth is 17 metres .
“the premise for port expansion on this scale also needs to be questioned given that many existing major ports are currently under - utilised and operating below capacity” mr gopal concludes .
moreover , the private line model will be applicable to it . there are three other models prescribed under new r3i policy and these are cost - sharing freight rebate model , full contribution - apportioned model and the spv model . under the private line model , the railways will share a portion of the revenue ( after deducting various charges ) with the dhamra port company ltd . the ratio for sharing , however , is still to be firmed up .
but the port is already in the eye of a storm . the settlement at the mouth of the dhamra river dates back centuries , intermittently making news when the hush - hush activities on its neighbouring wheeler island missile testing facility , offshore , are made public by the defence ministry . today , the buzz isn’t just of dump trucks and cranes as they plough the site that will soon be on the world’s maritime map as one of the largest ports in india .
“the operation is likely to be resumed soon after the local authority provides adequate security , ” he said , adding that the port is set to reopen later on tuesday or on wednesday .
mundra , the largest port in the country , recently crossed the 100 million tonne mark in annual cargo handling . the adani group owns five ports and is developing ports in kandla and ennore .
moreover , mr gopal explains , “the issue of the carrying capacity of the coastline with reference to developmental projects is completely missing . the proliferation of megaports near vulnerable areas has been a matter of controversy for some time now , from dhamra on the eastern coast , to mundra and tadri on the west . ” there are currently over 300 ports proposed along the coast of mainland india , of which over 200 are in the notification stage . this would translate to roughly a port every 20 - 25 km , he adds .
there are a number of port proposals being turned over in orissa at the moment , mostly related to mining shipments , an ongoing issue for india – but some are running into delays linked with environmental concerns .
tata steel has entered into a long - term cargo handling pact with dpcl to secure long - term requirement and access to a deep - water port for its operations in jamshedpur and odisha , it has said .
what we need to study is the concentration of turtles off dhamra and how they utilise the waters , ” says b c chowdhury from the endangered species management department , wildlife institute of india ( wii ) . “we don’t say the port should not be built , but we need to do this assessment before possibly irreversible damage is done . ” wii is a government institution under the ministry of environment and forests . chowdhury is accepted as an expert on wetland habitats and amphibians and has been sought out for his opinion duringdiscussions between dpcl and the activists .
following the recent mandate from the maritime and port authority of singapore ( mpa ) exxonmobil is launching a mass flow metering system ( mfms ) for marine gas oil in singapore which should help reduce bunkering times . . . .
“at present , about 23 % of shoreline along the indian mainland is affected by erosion , and in orissa , the coast north of gopalpur port has already been badly affected – much of this erosion is actually down to artificial structures . ”
secondly , a lack of sufficient depth to the impact assessment has been cited as the reason for holding back the agreement to a captive port at jatadhari , near paradip , part of south korean giant posco’s plan to build a us $ 12 - billion steel plant at nearby jagathsinghpur .
activists have raised three principal concerns : the impact of construction , and later shipping , on the mating activity of the turtles ; the impact of erosion , as a result of the dredging work on the shipping channel , on gahirmatha beach ; and the impact of the port lighting on the turtle hatchlings .
talks , which began in the hope of a solution , quickly turned sour . dpcl says it volunteered for an independent assessment of the port area but agencies such as the bombay natural history society and the worldwide fund for nature ( wwf ) refused , citing the commencement of the project as their reason .
he says permission for the relocation trawling to determine the density of turtles in the waters off dhamra is still pending . dpcl insists it has asked for permission to do the trawling as it would “settle the case” but claims government permission has not been forthcoming . sources in the forest department , who did not want to named , say the issue has been left to “hang in limbo” because it is feared “all hell” would break loose if the turtle density is found to be high .
the rs 1500 - crore project faced stiff opposition from green bodies like operation kachhapa , greenpeace to kalpavriskha , as they claimed that the port was located close to the waters used by the olive ridleys for nesting . the construction work and shipping traffic could cause severe damage to offshore turtle congregations , claimed the environmentalists .
while the 1997 eia takes note of the turtle habitat , the missing link is a lack of research on the turtles , their deep water mating habits and their habitat to the north of gahirmatha beach . “we have studied the nesting areas and the turtle activity offshore at gahirmatha but not off dhamra . though there is no nesting activity on the shores north of gahirmatha due to the muddy nature of the beaches , turtles ( many species ) are found in varying concentrations along every mile of india’s coastline .
the devil , as always , is in the fine print . mohapatra claims that any suspension of work now to study the turtles will cause a loss of time and money . but he also reveals that the “official date of commencement” of the project has not been reached . this date is reached when the land acquisition process is complete , but the orissa government is still at the task . the project needs 4 , 013 acres for the port and 3 , 000 acres for a new rail link . thus , though the port concession is for 34 years , if the dpcl saves time on construction due to the commencement date being pushed back , it can technically enjoy a longer concession and claim construction finished “ahead of schedule” .
the agreement between iucn and dpcl , a joint venture of tata steel and larsen & toubro , was an encouraging step forward in promoting corporate environmental responsibility . given the tata group’s commitment to environmental preservation , iucn believed that engaging with dpcl , in an effort to integrate the highest of environmental standards into the port development and operations , was an exemplary model of contemporary conservation action .
the period of concession from the official date of commencement is 34 years , after which the port reverts back to government ownership . in 1998 , the east asian economic crisis put paid to those plans . tata steel then entered into a partnership with l & t on may 5 , 1999 to implement the project . the already delayed project finally got underway in 2005 , but trouble lay across the horizon .
thus , the international union for conservation of nature ( iucn ) was roped in for its expertise in managing marine conflict . but this has also failed to convince the activists as they found the iucn report focused on conflict mitigation during the construction and operation of the port but bypassed a revised preliminary study . their demand is a fresh eia . talks finally broke down on february 20 , 2009 with the protesters deciding on public action due to construction continuing at a rapid pace .
according to the green activists , the environment impact assessment ( eia ) of 1997 did not address these concerns , and the current version of the port is vastly different from that specified in the eia . they demand that construction be stopped , and have filed petitions in the orissa high court . at the same time , talks began between dpcl and the gaggle of protesting ngos — greenpeace india , wildlife protection society of india , wildlife society of orissa , conservation action trust , prahlad kakkar’s reef watch and bittu sahgal’s sanctuary asia .
the appraisal committee of the coastal regulation zone panel has asked posco to give additional information on the captive port , but the project is may also be running into trouble with it’s forest clearance programme and this may also mean delays in approval by the environment ministry . further , the panel is now taking on the need to make a ‘cumulative assessment of projects . while mr gopal say that this is a positive step , as the developments present problems on a number of fronts - including to marine wildlife and the fishing industry - shoreline erosion is a “major problem” .
the project had run into troubled waters when the central empowered committee , appointed by the supreme court , claimed the port would impact gahirmatha ' s ( a national park near the proposed site ) nesting turtles and lead to the beach being abandoned by them . the olive ridley is protected in india under schedule i of the wildlife protection act , 1972 and is protected under the convention on international trade in endangered species of flora and fauna . the project will be executed in two phases . it will initially have a capacity of 12 to 15 mtpa for bulk cargo .
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while households in various cities would get piped gas , motor vehicles and industries would get cheaper and clean fuel .
petroleum minister dharmendra pradhan performed the bhumi pujan in the absence of odisha chief minister naveen patnaik .
the 5 mmtpa capacity lng terminal will play a major role in accelerating the process of development and economic growth in eastern india , mr . pradhan said .
construction of the lng import terminal would involve an investment of ₹ 6 , 000 crore , while a 2539 km long network of pipeline to transport gas would be laid at a cost of rs 13 , 000 crore , the petroleum minister said .
the network would connect 13 districts of odisha and states like jharkhand and uttar pradesh , he added .
stating that the country now has only one gas terminal in gujarat , mr . pradhan said that natural gas would now be brought to bhadrak from countries like america , canada and qatar .
the natural gas from the terminal would also be supplied to various city gas distribution networks in the eastern india .
while households in various cities would get piped gas , motor vehicles and industries would get cheaper and clean fuel , the petroleum minister said adding it would create vast employment opportunities for the the youth of odisha .
odisha chief minister naveen patnaik , who was supposed to perform “bhumi pujan” , skipped the programme . bjd mp and mlas also did not attend the function .
mr . pradhan said the chief minister had been invited to the function but it was learnt last night that he would not be attending it .
he said since the gas infrastructure project is set to boost economic growth in odisha and the entire eastern region , the chief minister’s presence would have been been more appropriate .
bjd spokesperson and mp pratap keshari deb said the chief minister had given consent to attend the function as it was a government programme . however , he decided to stay away when it was understood that it would become a political event .
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( only the headline and picture of this report may have been reworked by the business standard staff ; the rest of the content is auto - generated from a syndicated feed . )
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dpcl is a joint venture of tata and l & t ; , which is loacted near bhadrak district of orissa .
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from a development perspective , the site was perfect . but from a conservation perspective there were questions about its location due to its close proximity to a mass nesting site for the olive ridley turtle at gahirmatha , about 15 kilometres to the south , and to the nearby bitarkhanika wildlife refuge .
improving the project’s performance in other aspects of the environment , e . g . terrestrial environment as affected by access roads , railway lines and other secondary developments
the policy has several objectives such as attracting private sector participation in rail connectivity projects to create additional rail transport capacity , increasing rail share in freight traffic and making rail option more competitive for customers by sharing the cost of construction and allowing them to get a share in freight revenues to be generated on the new line . however , the policy shall not be applicable to connectivity to coal or iron ore mines , directly or indirectly .
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the concession period may be extended by two additional terms of 10 years each . the first phase construction , at an investment of rs 3 , 200 crore , started in march 2007 .
as part of tata steel ' s review of its investments portfolio , board of the company has approved the divestment of its equity holding in the joint venture at an attractive valuation ,
tata steel has said earlier .
the shares of apsez closed at rs 236 . 40 apiece on bse , up 1 . 79 per cent from the previous close .
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rupee hits all - time closing low of 68 . 79 against dollar : things to know
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the most vociferous of the ngos has been greenpeace india that organised protests and bombarded ratan tata’s email and fax with petitions . “we want to publicise the fact that a group such as the tatas , which claims the moral high ground on environmental concerns , has not done the due assessments , ” says ashish fernandes , oceans campaigner , greenpeace india . a spokesperson for the tata group , though , objects that the protests individually target tata . the spokesperson insists he is only part of a firm that has a stake in dpcl and finds it unfair that the other partner in dpcl , l & t , finds no mention in the protests .
though dpcl initially insisted that the most “stable” location for the shipping channel was chosen , it is alleged that here too the rules have been bent . “conditional permission was given for dredging , pending surveys from competent agencies , ” says b k patnaik , chief wildlife warden , orissa . “the surveys have been commissioned now , but the dredging began last year . ” mohapatra says that the initial dredging survey done by an american agency is good enough , but admits that the national institute of oceanography ( nio ) has been tasked to revisit the area .
fingers are pointing at the orissa government for its alleged complicity in allowing the construction to begin without any safeguards . “the orissa chief minister naveen patnaik has held the environment portfolio close to his chest . he has so far refused to be a part of the discussions , nor answered any queries , ” says biswajit mohanty of the wildlife society of orissa . mohanty wants the project scrapped .
researchers working in the gahirmatha area point to the disappearance of a part of the nesting islands called nasi i and nasi ii , off gahirmatha beach , to add weight to the erosion theory . this claim is corroborated by accounts from local fishermen . verifying this is incredibly difficult as access to the island falls under the high - security zone around the drdo’s wheeler island missile testing range . dpcl , meanwhile , argues that erosion is a constant phenomenon in the area and points to satellite imagery of the nasis from 1999 to 2001 , which shows them shrinking and growing . the forest department says the nio is the authority on erosion .


the garment district is a clothing retailer in cambridge , massachusetts that opened in 1986 and houses an eclectic array of vintage and contemporary clothing .

the garment district is also known for its dollar-a-pound clothing store .

garment district ( clothing retailer )

garment district - can anyone buy clothing at discount . . . - new york city forum
garment district - can anyone buy clothing at discount . . . - new york city forum - tripadvisor
an afternoon scene in the garment district in los angeles . ( pablo unzueta for the washington post )
- count and package hundreds of jackets scattered all over the floor of a fabric storage room in the garment district .
a man walks past a factory in the garment district of los angeles . ( pablo unzueta for the washington post )
the garment district carries contemporary as well as vintage fashions , and the volume of clothing in the store allows cohen to keep the price of most items well under $ 20 .
in comparison to the chaotic treasure - hunt atmosphere of dollar a pound , where the clothing lays in heaps on the floor , the garment district was
the first to categorize and colorize in an organized fashion ,
said cohen .
the garment district is the perfect combination of thrift store and boutique .
- your product can’t compete with mega brands in the mega retailer . the megas will never buy from you again .
cohen has clearly changed his tune about those old rags : today , he ' s the owner of two vintage - clothing stores , the garment district and dollar a pound , both located at 200 broadway in cambridge ' s kendall square .
we serve new york’s storied garment district , in the heart of midtown manhattan . working in partnership with local building owners and businesses , we improve the quality of life and economic vitality in this authentic new york neighborhood . the garment district alliance , formerly the fashion center bid , is a not - for - profit corporation , established in 1993 .
many people might consider
vintage clothing
to include turn - of - the - century clothing , 1920s jazz - era garb or 1940s fedoras and baggy pants .
hangers , vics specifications , ; mfr and distributor worldwide for display and packaging . made in china and other asian countries , retailer nominated
in 2007 , boston costume joined the garment district and by the pound at 200 broadway . boston costume has been a boston institution since 1965 , and was previously located in boston’s chinatown neighborhood .
more trimmings / buttons / beads / notions the bead district is around 6th avenue from 36th st to 39th st .
- make special products for an online “core” specialty retailer . give them access to exclusive products that you’re not letting the big mainstream guys in on .
trendy clothing is always here , especially when brand new pairs of hunter rain boots are available .
the garment district is home to thousands of fashion industry businesses . navigating this vast sea of apparel , accessories & textiles can be overwhelming , so we ' ve published our database online , allowing you to find patern makers , wholesalers , sales reps and anything else you might be looking for in the garment district . if you have any difficulties , consult the list of popular searches , or email us at info @ urltoken .
anii wearing outlier ' s original garment , the og pants . ( c . 2008 )
the whole clothing business in 2016 is based on deep discounts , low margins , and massive volume .
- get stiffed by that “core” specialty online retailer . get left with stuff you borrowed money to make . try and figure out what to do with it .
seven months ago , the historic , albeit run - down , old factory building at 200 broadway was in danger of being razed and turned into condos . but that is not going to happen after all , and the garment district , the funky clothing store cherished by halloween revelers and bargain - loving fashionistas , is staying right there .
as truly antique ( pre - 1950s ) clothing becomes scarce , the popularity of more modern clothing - - from the 1960s and , yes , the 1970s - - is great news for vintage - apparel store owners .
every year , americans throw away millions of pounds of perfectly usable clothing every year . and with constant trend turn - overs and “fast fashion” production , it can be easy to see out - of - style clothing as disposable . however , by “recycling” unwanted clothing by buying and selling secondhand , we can keep these clothes from clogging up landfills , and cut down on the high carbon and pollutant footprint it often requires to manufacture new clothing .
sean martin . a stitch in time : the cleveland garment industry . western reserve historical society , 2015
pedro said nemo’s sews some clothing for forever 21 , as the blouses he helped produce were tagged with the retailer’s label . forever 21 said in a statement that it “takes these issues very seriously and requires all of its vendors to comply with federal and local minimum wage and record - keeping laws . ”
the laws of the state of new york shall govern and construe these terms , without giving effect to any conflict of laws provision to the contrary . user irrevocably consents to the venue of new york state court , kings county , or united states district court for the eastern district of new york .
when bruce cohen first encountered vintage clothing in the 1970s , he thought he was looking at a pile of old rags .
the garment district is really a series of maybe three or four streets between 5th and 6th avenues , 39th , 38 , 37 , 36 dotted with
wholesale only
storefronts that sell inexpensive clothing . there are also quite a few button and bead stores , the beading stores have really taken off big time in the past few years in this area . you can walk into these
wholesale only
stores and ask if they will sell clothes to you for cash , and depending on their mood they will either let you or not . in either case , it will not be a comfortable experience and it ' s really not worth the bother . any tour of the garment district is probably just visiting showroom after showroom and maybe peeking into a room with racks of clothing .
pedro said nemo ' s sews some clothing for forever 21 , as the blouses he helped produce were tagged with the retailer ' s label . forever 21 said in a statement that it “takes these issues very seriously and requires all of its vendors to comply with federal and local minimum wage and record - keeping laws .
“casa nonna , market cafe , and il punto are the better places in the hood . the others are the ones that are a step tier down from the first three mentioned , but are still better than most of the pop up food places in the garment district . “
cohen once ran a business that manufactured wiping cloths . the material he used came from bales of old clothing that nobody wanted .
mariela martinez , 24 , is an organizer for the garment worker center . ( pablo unzueta for the washington post )
for two decades , garment factories , most clustered in los angeles , have produced clothing for some of america ' s leading retailers , who have kept production in the us to avoid transportation time and costs and to benefit from higher quality manufacturing processes .
for two decades , garment factories , most clustered in los angeles , have produced clothing for some of america’s leading retailers , who have kept production in the u . s . to avoid transportation time and costs and to benefit from higher quality manufacturing processes .
a fashion designer & apos ; s window at a korean - owned garment firm in los angeles . ( photo : lauren lancaster )
with a total of 30 , 000 items on the floor , cohen takes extra care to research who his customers are and what they ' re buying , though not in a high - tech way : the garment district has no computer or scanning system on site , but one is on the way , according to cohen .
the garment district prides itself on having been a “green” business since day 1 . although only approximately one piece in twenty is selected , steamed , and tagged for sale in the store , other items are sold through by the pound , and items we cannot sell are sent to a “shoddy mill” and are ground up for other uses .
eric choe , outgoing president of the korean - american garment industry association , acknowledges that minimum wage violations occur in the industry , but argues that retailers bear at least some of the blame . those companies , he said , liked american - made goods because they could reach clothing racks more quickly .
just a short walk from the kendall / mit red line t station in cambridge , the garment district is a large and unique retail clothing store , stocking all styles of women’s and men’s new and used clothes , shoes , and accessories . with over 12 , 000 square feet of retail space bursting with more than 40 , 000 unique items at any given time , you’ll always find a large assortment of options at affordable prices . the store is open every day , and accepts all major credit cards .
today , forever 21 has its own warehouses abroad to keep up with global demand , but it still maintains some ties to the korean garment district . the company sends agents to the neighborhood—and to other similar markets around the world—to check in with vendors and keep track of what’s trending where . and several manufacturers in the neighborhood say that forever 21 still buys clothes from them .
the name itself dates back to 2007 and abe ' s earlier attempts to turn his pants into reality . the black swan logo came naturally as it is symbolic of an outlier . abe ' s pants were a bit further along than tyler ' s shirts so they became outlier ' s original garment , the og pants ( pictured left ) . between the two of them they shared just a years worth of experience in the clothing world ; abe had been an animator and graphic designer while tyler had worked in media and a record store before a brief stint working with a shirtmaker . what they did have was new york city ' s garment district , where they learned to make clothes the hard way .
the investigation prompted han’s to quickly close , and pedro — with the help of the garment worker center — pressed a claim for unpaid wages with the state .
bookatailor prides itself on being 100 % bespoke tailor which indicates that a bespoke clothing is handcrafted by our top bespoke menswear tailors which includes custom tailored suits , shirts in usa .
bookatailor is an innovative pioneer in custom made menswear clothing . we offer the highest quality custom tailored designer shirts , suits , custom made suits in at the most affordable prices .
someone else asked this yesterday . i have seen ads online for tours but don ' t know how good they are . you ' d be better off ( i think ) looking on urltoken and urltoken ( ny magazine website ) for sample sales . there are also plenty of discount clothing shops . look on urltoken / cheap for designer clothing for less .
the parent company of another retailer , tj maxx , said in a statement that it “expressly requires our vendors to pay the legally prescribed minimum wage or the prevailing industry wage , whichever is higher , and our vendors must ensure that all subcontractors they use comply with these same requirements . ”
next top model : design studio at a garment business in l . a . & apos ; s jobber market . the rise of a new generation of design - savvy young korean & apos ; s in l . a . & apos ; s garment sector has propelled the fast - fashion trend . ( photo : lauren lancaster )
tags terms : nordstrom zara korea fashion industry clothes forever 21 t . j . maxx urban outfitters anthropologie los angeles clothing fashion fast fashion manufacturing features inditex magazines : magazine feature story mar / apr 2014
still located in the center of new york city’s garment district , g - iii’s goals for the future are consistent with its storied past…produce great products that enable it to reach a broad spectrum of consumers ; partner with nationally recognized brands to appeal to a brand conscious apparel market ; and , perhaps most importantly , engage the entrepreneurial spirit that got it here by constantly seeking attractive new licenses and acquisitions to expand its reach and abilities .
direct importer . wholesaler and retailer of czech glass beads , preciosa crystals , swarovski crystals , plastic and metallic beads , pearls , czech preciosa seed beads , chains , tools , jewelry findings , threads , wires , glue , wax cords , leather . hours : m - f 9 - 6 ; saturday 10 - 5
consider the following itinerary a sampler of garment district attractions that can be collapsed into three hours ( if you stay focused and on task and wear either roller - skates or rubber soled shoes ) . if you need sustenance , try ben’s , a ny kosher type deli at 209 w 38 th street , corner of 7 th avenue , ( 212 ) 398 - 2367 . many thanks to shirley levine for her clever help compiling this list .
i haven ' t been here in a while . the men ' s store was completely re - done . good sales and clothing selections . they carry some of the higher end brands now like varvatos .
whether you dream of redecorating your apartment or you’re a professional looking to create the next big clothing line , here are the five best fabric stores in nyc to help you get started . by carly petrone .
if you like to exercise while on vacation , you ' ll love our fitness rooms . equipped with all the modern amenities we offer here at tryp new york city , plus an exercise bike and exercise clothing .
while immigrants often face criticism for stealing jobs , they are the ones being increasingly undercut in america’s clothing industry , forced to accept wages below the legal minimum as retailers fight to pass on bargain prices to consumers .
the garment district building at 200 broadway in cambridge is the last standing structure associated with the city’s once - booming soap manufacturing industry . our building dates back to 1893 , when an older factory on the site was destroyed by fire . until world war ii , the building housed soap manufacturer lysander kemp & sons . in the postwar years , the building was occupied by several businesses , including the cambridge printing co , a bronze foundry , and harbor textile waste co .
although it might seem redundant after the other trimming stores , a visit to the garment district wouldn’t be complete without trekking a few blocks east to m + j trimming . you might want to stop for a caffeine break on your way over ; you’ll need renewed stamina to stand and gawk . m & j is a bit pricier . the view is fabulous bordering on overwhelming . if you’re into embellishment and you’ve only got an hour , you might want to spend it here .
“while forever 21 does not own or operate any of the third party vendors or contractors involved , it is our policy and practice to not purchase merchandise from any companies who violate the law ,
the retailer said . “forever 21 condemns any third party vendor that violates these laws , and takes appropriate action to encourage these independent vendors to improve compliance . ”
the sewing of clothing depends on a hierarchy of immigrants , according to those who monitor or work in the industry . hispanics , mostly mexicans , perform the labour at factories owned often by first - and second - generation koreans .
without language skills or money , most ended up leveraging their ties to the textile trade back home , making or selling clothes . korean immigrants went on to play large roles in the most important clothing markets in são paulo , buenos aires , guangzhou , l . a . , and new york . “all of us—every single person i knew—ended up working in the clothing business , even after graduating with a university degree , ” says mike lee , a korean fashion entrepreneur who came to los angeles from brazil . “it was just one of those things where it was easy to learn the business and easy to get information about it , because everyone doing clothing in são paulo was korean . ”
the sewing of clothing depends on a hierarchy of immigrants , according to those who monitor or work in the industry . hispanics , mostly mexicans , perform the labor at factories owned often by first - and second - generation koreans .
“while forever 21 does not own or operate any of the third party vendors or contractors involved , it is our policy and practise to not purchase merchandise from any companies who violate the law , ” the retailer said . “forever 21 condemns any third - party vendor that violates these laws , and takes appropriate action to encourage these independent vendors to improve compliance . ”
garnett said that competing against big retailers is not an issue . that ' s because famous - name designers often get their inspiration from older styles , which makes the clothing he sells compatible with what ' s in larger department stores .
clothing should be liberating . what you put on in the morning should never restrict what you do with your day . we make garments that evolve around the boundaries of fashion using a function driven design process and high quality technical fabrics .
su , the california labour commissioner , said in a statement that enforcing penalties against employers “is certainly a challenge” , particularly in the garment industry where violators tend to be “relatively small , fly by night , and open and shut down with some frequency” . she said the state government , though , was confiscating garments made in unlicensed factories and trying to pay workers for lost wages from a government fund created with registration fees from garment companies .
as part of its investigation , the department of labor in 2016 visited at random 77 garment companies throughout southern california . at 85 percent of those places , they reported finding labor violations — mostly failures to pay minimum wage .
su , the california labor commissioner , said in a statement that enforcing penalties against employers “is certainly a challenge , ” particularly in the garment industry where violators tend to be “relatively small , fly by night , and open and shut down with some frequency . ” she said the state government , though , was confiscating garments made in unlicensed factories and trying to pay workers for lost wages from a government fund created with registration fees from garment companies .
he had spent his latest 45 - hour working week hunched over a sewing machine , attaching labels and stitching collars and tightening black and gold blouses that would soon sell at bargain prices at a popular retailer . but now it was saturday afternoon , pay day , when pedro felt the full sting of that bargain : it was his own salary that helped keep the prices down for consumers .
the typical garment worker is somebody like pedro , a mexican who slipped over the hills around tijuana in 1986 , spent his first american night in the back of the trunk , arrived in los angeles the next morning , found a garment job soon after , and only now , at age 48 , was wondering why things had gotten so hard . pedro , who is still undocumented , requested that his last name not be used out of fear of deportation .
as part of its investigation , the department of labour in 2016 visited at random 77 garment companies throughout southern california . at 85 per cent of those places , they reported finding labour violations – mostly failures to pay minimum wage .
garment of praise : the ttokamsa home mission church in eastern los angeles is the spiritual home of many of the korean families who produce fast fashion , including the chang family—the owners of forever 21 . ( photo : lauren lancaster )
like most garment workers , he said he was paid by the piece , rather than receiving an hourly wage . he earned 4 cents for every label , 2 cents for stitching across the shoulders , 10 cents for a pocket .
los angeles - - he had spent his latest 45 - hour workweek hunched over a sewing machine , attaching labels and stitching collars and tightening black and gold blouses that would soon sell at bargain prices at a popular retailer . but now it was saturday afternoon , paycheck time , when pedro felt the full sting of that bargain : it was his own salary that helped keep the prices down for consumers .
in 1984 , forever 21 was a single retail store in the east l . a . neighborhood of highland park . by 2001 , the company had 50 stores . the retailer continued to gain a following because it stocked so many on - trend , knock - off garments , offering new designs almost daily . by many accounts , this constant stream of styles—the secret to forever 21’s original success—came from the jobber market .
federal regulators have uncovered a widespread practise of garment workers , most of them undocumented , being paid below the legal minimum wage , according to a recent department of labour report . those findings were echoed in interviews with workers and workers’ activists here .
federal regulators have uncovered a widespread practice of garment workers , most of them undocumented , being paid below the legal minimum wage , according to a recent department of labor report . those findings were echoed in interviews with workers and workers activists here .
as an anthropologist , i have been coming to los angeles with the photographer lauren lancaster for the past two years to study the hundreds of korean families who have , over the last decade , transformed the city’s garment district into a central hub for fast fashion in the americas . these families make their living by designing clothes , organizing the factory labor that will cut and sew them in places like china and vietnam , and selling them wholesale to many of the most famous retailers in the u . s . —including forever 21 , urban outfitters , t . j . maxx , anthropologie , and nordstrom .
the most unexpected part of it all for me was an education in business . when we made our first run of clothing we didn’t even understand the basic business cycle . we didn’t understand pre - booking collections , going to trade shows , markups , what retail looked like - embarrassingly naive .
according to the recent labor department report , clothing prices at many retailers would have to rise nearly 40 percent for workers to be paid the minimum wage . the garments made by underpaid workers most often get sold at fast fashion or discount retailers like forever 21 , tj maxx , and ross dress for less , according to the labor department .
according to the recent labour department report , clothing prices at many retailers would have to rise nearly 40 per cent for workers to be paid the minimum wage . the garments made by underpaid workers most often get sold at fast fashion or discount retailers like forever 21 , tj maxx , and ross dress for less , according to the labour department .
matcha , mint , hazelnut , lemon - basil and coconut are some of the subtle flavors that kee ling tong , who owns the kee’s chocolates stores in soho and in the garment district , has infused in her refreshing chocolate milks , both semisweet and white . she uses milk from fair oaks farms in fair oaks , ind . , as a base , thanks to a friend who knew she was looking for a source for milk , and made an introduction : susu and kee’s chocolate milk , 3 ounces , $ 3 ; 6 ounces , $ 6 , including a 50 - cent deposit , at kee’s chocolates , 315 west 39th street , 212 - 967 - 8088 , and 80 thompson street ( spring street ) , 212 - 334 - 3284 , urltoken .
fabric shops the fabric shops in the garment district are mostly on 39th and 40th streets , between 7th and 8th avenues . although they are open to the public , they cater to the apparel industry , meaning come with an open mind and don ' t expect many fabrics & fabricscalicoes and traditional quilting fabrics . but don ' t be shy : ask for cottons . depending on the season , you could get lucky . generally , the hours are monday to friday 9 - 6 and saturday 10 - 5 ( or 4 : 30 ) . interestingly , saturdays are not as busy as weekdays when wholesale customers in the trade make up most of the traffic . a few stores open and close an hour earlier , and some are closed on saturdays because of religious observance .
vintage clothing plays into a mentality of smart shopping ,
said jay calderin , director of the maverick media group , publishers of maverick , a semi - annual boston fashion newsletter .
at some of these stores , customers can get a real bargain , although there are also shops that have become very chi - chi and are really overpriced .
specifically , i paid a visit this past summer to the ttokamsa home mission church , a large , gray , industrial box of a building near a highway on the edge of echo park , a residential neighborhood in east los angeles . a well - known local institution among korean americans , the church is the spiritual home of the chang family—the owners of forever 21 , the largest fast - fashion retailer based in the u . s . ( look on the bottom of any canary - yellow forever 21 shopping bag and you’ll find the words “john 3 : 16 . ” )
then , during the late 1980s and throughout the 1990s , thousands of korean garment - business owners left brazil and argentina for los angeles , driven by currency crises , inflation , rising crime , and the search for better educational opportunities for their children . it was those same children who would go on to drive america’s fast - fashion revolution .
“most of the folks that i see at the wage clinic , it’s the same some sort of scheme , ” said mariela martinez , an organizing coordinator the garment worker center , a nonprofit that advocates for underpaid workers . “what the employer is doing is looking at how much the worker made through the piece rate and then adjusting the hours to approximate that . ”
“it’s almost been a perfect storm for the garment industry , ” said ruben rosalez , a regional administrator at the department of labor’s wage and hour division , based in san francisco . “not only do [ the employers ] have the pricing pressure , but they have a labor force that’s prone to being exploited . they’re using that , taking advantage of these workers . ”
in addition to the two newbury street stores , garnett owns bobby ' s from boston , an elegant by - appointment - only men ' s vintage - apparel showroom located at 19 thayer st . in boston ' s south end . the store carries men ' s clothing and accessories that date from the turn of the century to the early 1950s , and caters to wholesalers as well as retail shoppers .
“most of the folks that i see at the wage clinic , it ' s the same some sort of scheme , ” said mariela martinez , an organising coordinator the garment worker centre , a nonprofit that advocates for underpaid workers . “what the employer is doing is looking at how much the worker made through the piece rate and then adjusting the hours to approximate that . ”
our garments are built to perform better every day . our first product was a pair of pants designed around bike commuting . an item designed to extend the freedom of a cyclist into the broadest range of possibilities . we still make a version of those og pants but we rapidly evolved into something more dynamic , a company that makes innovative and good looking clothing to improve the way you move through this world .
“it’s almost been a perfect storm for the garment industry , ” said ruben rosalez , a regional administrator at the department of labour’s wage and hour division , based in san francisco . “not only do [ the employers ] have the pricing pressure , but they have a labour force that ' s prone to being exploited . they ' re using that , taking advantage of these workers . ”
but immigrants who once moved from poorer countries to the us for economic opportunity are now watching their prospects falter as they compete against lower - cost hubs such as bangladesh , vietnam and mexico . as the number of us - based garment jobs decline , those workers also compete against one another , fighting for scarce and low - paying work while fearing deportation if they complain about the pay .
federal labour investigators and employers draw a direct connection between the meagre pay for workers – as low as $ 4 per hour , according to a government report released last month – and the bargain prices paid by consumers . over the past two decades , consumer prices in real terms have risen more than 50 per cent in the us , according to government data , but clothing costs less today than it did 20 years ago .
federal labor investigators and employers draw a direct connection between the meager pay for workers — as low as $ 4 per hour , according to a government report released last month — and the bargain prices paid by consumers . over the last two decades , consumer prices in real terms have risen more than 50 percent in the u . s . , according to government data , but clothing costs less today than it did 20 years ago .
what they lacked , often , was american cultural fluency , a sensibility for aesthetics and design , and the capacity to connect with american retailers—traits that were becoming increasingly necessary for survival . by 2000 , by many accounts , a large swath of garment businesses were failing . korean - owned sewing factories , cutting studios , and small - time manufacturers were going belly - up in waves . the industry was changing .
but immigrants who once moved from poorer countries to the u . s . for economic opportunity are now watching their prospects falter as they compete against lower - cost hubs like bangladesh , vietnam and mexico . as the number of u . s . - based garment jobs decline , those workers also compete against one another , fighting for scarce and low - paying work while fearing deportation if they complain about the pay .
on a residential street in glendale , california , alice moon’s bedroom does not look so different from the kind of backdrop one often sees in haul videos . it is decorated with cut - and - paste collages of clothes , runway models , and magazine cover girls . she’s cut the word “fashion” out in bubble letters and strung it decoratively across one wall . shopping bags are strewn about everywhere—from h & m , zara , forever 21—stuffed with clothing that has yet to be unpacked , folded , put away , or even worn .
his manager gathered the 30 or so workers from their stations in the unmarked brick building and passed out pay - slips . for the week , he said , he had been paid $ 225 ( £183 ) . or $ 5 ( £4 ) per hour . “there ' s nothing to do but take it , ” pedro said . while immigrants often face criticism for “stealing” jobs , they are the ones being increasingly undercut in america’s clothing industry , forced to accept wages below the legal minimum as retailers fight to pass on bargain prices to consumers .
eleanor - from - long - island and her daughter - the - salsa - dancer have great things to say about this mecca : “garment silks , like dupioni ( $ 12 ) , silk lining fabric ( $ 5 - - cheaper than the polyester at joann’s . ) , lovely wools ( $ 10 ) , ultrasuede ( $ 10 to 12 ) . discounted patterns at 50 % off , loads of stock notions , accessories , trims and buttons , not to mention a decorating fabric section , too .
on a tuesday in december , pedro showed up in downtown los angeles to the office of the state labour commissioner for a settlement conference – a chance , maybe , to get some of the money he believed he was owed . the number of wage claims made by california garment workers has more than tripled over the past six years , and most claims lead to a scene like this : another morning in a crowded government waiting room where a poster on the wall read , “we put earned wages into workers ' pockets” .
on a tuesday in december , pedro showed up in downtown los angeles to the office of the state labor commissioner for a settlement conference — a chance , maybe , to get some of the money he believed he was owed . the number of wage claims made by california garment workers has more than tripled over the last six years , and most claims lead to a scene like this : another morning in a crowded government waiting room where a poster on the wall read , “we put earned wages into workers’ pockets . ”
outlier grew rapidly through 2009 and tyler soon was able to quit his day job . by the end of the year they had their first full time employee , and by 2010 abe was able to drop his remaining freelance gigs and join full time as well . in june outlier moved their offices out of tyler ' s living room and into a loft space on the edge of williamsburg , brooklyn . that studio is a lot more crowded now , but it remains a space where clothing is torn apart , reconsidered and iterated on in a continual pursuit of an impossible perfection .
according to shirley levine , it ' s the best stocked notion center , with a great selection of brand name rayon threads ( including madeira ) and stuff like rat tail and cording for piping , and it ' s one of the few spots in the city that carries clothing patterns ( at 25 % off ) . according to judy speezak , this shop always has a good selection of genuine african cottons , cheaper than most anywhere else in the city . they also have an odd selection of quilting cottons , and she ' s recently seen woven patterned chinese silks there , too .
the nerve center of fast fashion in america is a sprawling , 30 - square - block neighborhood in downtown la loosely known as the jobber market . the term “jobber , ” a holdover from the days when jewish and iranian vendors dominated the neighborhood , refers to the wholesalers and middlemen who historically trafficked in downmarket clothing there . but the neighborhood’s name and reputation are outdated in a couple of ways : today pretty much everyone who works there is either korean or mexican , and many of the businesses born in the area now design , manufacture , and wholesale their own garments for prominent markets .
like most garment workers , he said he was paid by the piece , rather than receiving an hourly wage . he earned 4 cents for every label , 2 cents for stitching across the shoulders , 10 cents for a pocket . such a payment method was legal – but only if the earnings met the minimum wage , $ 7 . 25 nationally and $ 10 . 50 in los angeles . in some jobs over the years , pedro had earned more than the minimum , but now , he said , those jobs were almost impossible to find .
employers say they are in a bind . california ' s minimum wage is set to gradually rise to $ 15 per hour by 2022 , one of the most generous in the country . in th meantime , the state says it has toughened penalties for wage violations . in 2015 , pedro said he was working at han ' s fashion , another sewing factory , when federal investigators appeared . the investigation prompted han ' s to quickly close , and pedro – with the help of the garment worker center – pressed a claim for unpaid wages with the state .
gone were the days when a garment shop just took orders from companies to create basic designs ( imagine a shirt from the gap circa 1995 ) that would continue to sell for several seasons . big retailers were doing a lot less of their own designing , while requiring more complicated details and features in trim and ornamentation . “before , as long as there was a hole for the head and a sleeve , you could sell [ a shirt ] with any print , ” says so yun , the designer for a jobber market company called collective concepts . “now it’s designed . ”
even for an insider , it’s hard to get a sense of the scale of what’s going on in the jobber market . about 3 , 000 businesses are officially registered with the korean apparel manufacturers association of los angeles . but people in the neighborhood will tell you that more than 6 , 000 korean - owned clothing labels operate there . some of them are just small - time mom - and - pop establishments ; others are multimillion - dollar businesses . gossip and rumor pervade the neighborhood—about who is doing well and who isn’t ; about who secretly owns a massive warehouse and manufacturing operation , and who has little but a flashy showroom .
i first became curious about the garment sector in los angeles after noticing that an increasingly large proportion of students at parsons , the new york design school where i teach , were second - generation children of korean immigrants from southern california . many of them were studying fashion marketing and design so they could return to los angeles to help scale up their parents’ businesses . these students and their contemporaries were , i came to understand , the driving force behind u . s . fast fashion—a phenomenon whose rise is less a story about corporate innovation than one about an immigrant subculture coming of age .
over the past 15 years , the fashion industry has undergone a profound and baffling transformation . what used to be a stable three - month production cycle—the time it takes to design , manufacture , and distribute clothing to stores , in an extraordinary globe - spanning process—has collapsed , across much of the industry , to just two weeks . the “on - trend” clothes that were , until recently , only accessible to well - heeled , slender urban fashionistas , are now available to a dramatically broader audience , at bargain prices . a design idea for a blouse , cribbed from a runway show in paris , can make it onto the racks in wichita in a wide range of sizes within the space of a month .
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we ' d be in a warehouse sorting through clothes to get wipe rags ,
said cohen ,
and some guy would come up to us and say , ` i ' ll give you $ 1 for that old western shirt ' or ` i ' ll give you $ 1 . 25 for that coca - cola workshirt . '
cohen and his partners were surprised that anyone would want to buy the castoffs they used as raw material for rags .
we thought it was a goof ,
said cohen .
we paid 3 cents a pound for this stuff .
a number of small boston - area retro boutiques have been redefining their concept of
vintage
in order to keep up with fashion trends and stay competitive with large department stores .
five years ago , there ' s no way i ' d even have looked at a bale of men ' s polyester pants ,
said bobby garnett , co - owner of strutters and boutiques unique , both on newbury street .
now i ' ll look at them .
but cohen notes that several small vintage - apparel stores have closed in recent years precisely because they wouldn ' t change with the times .
the clothes they wanted to carry became harder to get and are out of vogue .
cohen said .
in order to compete with large department stores carrying vintage knockoffs , many smaller vintage - apparel boutiques offer lower prices in addition to authenticity .
some truly modern collectible items , however , never make it onto the floor of local shops .
for instance , levi jeans that were made in the 1960s or 1970s ( distinguishable by the capital e in levi on the tiny red back - pocket tag ) retail for about $ 300 in japan . boston vintage apparel store owners usually can ' t afford to pay the same wholesale price that japanese buyers will for these classic levis .
i couldn ' t sell a pair of jeans for that much here ,
said kathleen white , owner of oona ' s in harvard square . jeans at oona ' s go for about $ 25 , which is the average at small vintage - apparel shops .
kids sometimes say , ` twenty - five dollars is too much to spend for used jeans , i ' ll go to goodwill and get some . ' and when they go to goodwill , what do they find ? gloria vanderbilt ,
said white .
that ' s not what the kids want to wear . so they come back here .
vintage stores like oona ' s buy the items they sell in bulk from dealers , who in turn get most of their stock by digging through thrift stores .
after buying a bale of clothes , white will go through and separate what will work in her store from the garments that are unusable , either quality - wise or style - wise .
some old styles don ' t sell ,
said white .
the ` top gun ' look is dead . if you get one of those in a bale of leather jackets , you toss it .
according to white , the look of oona ' s hasn ' t changed much since the store opened in 1972 .
this is what everybody wore then ,
she said , pointing to the vivid hawaiian shirts and flowing hippy dresses that spill out of the door and adorn the outside of her 1210 massachusetts ave . storefront .
many of white ' s customers need a costume to wear to a theme party or rock concert .
but oona ' s also gets steady business from students and locals who don ' t wait for halloween to put on a pair of velvet bellbottoms .
the kids from around harvard square wear my stuff every day ,
said white .
i see them get upset when the suburbans come in and make fun of the clothes .
garnett , who co - owns strutters and boutiques unique with partner joel shaw , first uncovered a market for second - hand clothes when he owned a leather shop in brookline village in the early 1970s .
that ' s when i started shopping in thrift stores . i was buying clothes , but only for the hardware . i would take off the buttons and buckles to use on the leather . then i would throw the clothes in a basket and sell them for $ 2 to $ 5 .
people kept coming back to buy from that basket . after a while , i started putting the clothes up on racks .
garnett opened his first strutters , then called uptown strutters ball , in provincetown in 1975 . strutters has been on newbury street since 1990 , and boutiques unique opened in 1991 .
shaw estimates that the two stores do $ 500 , 000 to $ 750 , 000 a year in business .
according to garnett , sometimes the u . s . vintage - apparel market will make an impact in london . then , designers will pick up on a vintage look london youth are wearing and will duplicate it for department stores here .
once , in the ' 80s , i sold a bunch of paisley shirts wholesale to vintage dealers in london ,
said garnett .
i had a really hard time convincing them to buy it . when these shirts came out in the london vintage stores , the kids bought them and then the designers came in and bought them .
after that , you saw paisley shirts everywhere here for a couple of years ,
said garnett .
i hand - pick everything for bobby ' s from boston ,
said garnett .
this store allows me the freedom to buy what i want rather than buying in bulk to appease the wholesale dealers .
cohen ' s dollar a pound opens at 7 : 45 a . m . on saturdays and sundays , and there are plenty of regulars waiting enthusiastically by the door at that time every week .
the people who shop here know what they ' re doing ,
said cohen , who opened the store in 1980 .
it ' s sort of a cult thing . i ' ve seen three marriages come out of dollar a pound .
surveys and customer mailing lists help cohen to keep tabs on customer preferences . he would not release revenue numbers for the stores , but said that they ' re
well into seven figures .
after that , whatever doesn ' t sell gets ground up and recycled into fiber .
we ' re the ultimate green business , the perfect recyclers . nothing goes to waste here .
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new items are put out daily , so you’ll find something fresh every time you visit . whether you’re looking for casual apparel , business attire , or party clothes , we carry it all .
our stock is specifically selected to be seasonally - appropriate . we carry tons of coats and winter accessories during the cooler months , thousands of holiday sweaters in december , racks and racks of tank tops and cut - offs in the summer months , and a warehouse’s worth of costumes during october . and of course , we stock everyday essentials year - round : dresses , denim , pants , suits , hats , shoes , purses , ties , and so much more .
if you look better at 5th floor , you ' ll find clothes cheaper than others .
largest mall in the world ! 9 floors . i loved this mall ! it got everything , shoes , purses , clothes , jewelry , perfumes ect ! it ' s also free wifi here ! spent a lot of hours here on my new york trip !
do not carry your canal street bag into louis vuitton . . . we will judge you !
i work here , so my trip here is made multiple times during the week . hope those that go shopping at lord & taylor like the clothes , and store in general .
they sell fabulous clothes and shoes . . . . it may b crowed but don ' t let that get in the way of ur shopping at lord & taylor . . . . . . . . . . . . . if u going to a parrrrrraty go to the store # imtellingtherurth
the staff look ripped from the pages of japanese fashion rags , and the racks are full of stuff that ' s about 10 % more out - there than what you ' re used to pulling off—but you ' ll still be inspired to try .
noah emrich , youngest of the young guns , swings by to find the most unique selection of menswear in town .
incredibly large store - 3 levels . amazing beauty selection at rear of ground floor . women ' s and home accessories are upstairs , as well as a large sale section tucked at the back .
ask for ms . pinks - she is the best ! she fitted me for my wedding day gear to match the cut of my dress & gave me some tips . thanks again !