# How To Assemble A Desktop PC/Choosing the parts

The first step to building a computer is acquiring the parts. This guide
will start with a quick explanation of essential parts and elaborate on
them further on.

These are the parts that a standard PC will use. You might want to make
a check list (perhaps using a spreadsheet) of parts to use as you go
about your process of research and selection. That way you won't find
yourself sitting down with a pile of brand new hardware only to find
that you forgot an essential component.

## The primary parts

### Key Parts

-   **Case** - The case houses and
    protects rest of the parts, and contains additional functions like
    button, front IO ports, and other features.

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-   **Power Supply
    Unit "wikilink")**/**PSU** -- *Power
    Supply Unit*, converts outlet power, which is alternating current
    (AC), to direct current (DC) which is required by internal
    components, as well as providing appropriate voltages and currents
    for these internal components.

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-   **Motherboard**/**mainboard** -- A board
    that facilitates communications between components and offers ports
    to connect them together.

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-   **CPU** -- *central
    processing unit*, the main processor of the computer. The CPU
    handles general and mathematically complicated tasks.

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-   **RAM** -- *random access memory*, the
    \"short-term memory\" of a computer, used by the CPU to store
    program instructions and data upon which it is currently operating.
    Data in RAM is lost when the computer is powered off, thus
    necessitating a *storage drive*.

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-   **Storage** - either
    **HDD** (Hard disk drive - noisy and
    slower of the two but less expensive) and/or
    **SSD** (solid state drive. Quiet, very
    fast but not as cheap) -- the \"long-term memory\" of the computer,
    used for persistent storage -- i.e. the things stored on it remain
    even when the computer is powered down. The operating system, and
    all your programs and data are stored here, so if you choose SSD
    then the system will be faster. These days, SSDs have replaced HDDs
    for almost everything but the lowest-end laptops and desktops, but
    if you only need to surf the web, HDDs are the best option. OSes can
    be booted and use storage from inexpensive **USB
    Drives**, although this is only
    with extremely lightweight systems.

### Optional Components

Optional components follow: (Components that depend on the function that
will be given to the machine)

-   **GPU**/**Graphics Card** -- does
    processing relating to video output. If you want to build a gaming
    PC, a good GPU is almost mandatory. Some processors have an
    integrated GPU built in so you don't need (but may add) a separate
    video card. Otherwise, you will need a video card. These plug into a
    slot on the motherboard and provide ports to connect a monitor to
    your computer.

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-   **Optical Drive** -- device for
    handling optical disks. May read CDs, DVDs, Blu-Rays or other
    optical media. Some drives are able to write optical media as well
    as read it.

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-   **Sound hardware** - Now integrated into
    motherboards, higher end sound hardware may be a good option for
    some users.

### External Components

On top of the internal components listed above, you will also need these
external components:

-   **Keyboard** -- for typing on. A good
    keyboard will increase your comfort, as well as make you a more
    productive typist.

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-   **Mouse** -- for pointing and clicking. A
    comfortable mouse can significantly improve your experience.

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-   **Monitor** -- Displays graphics from your
    computer. They come in many forms, the most common being
    LCD displays.

## Planning the Build

Before you go on a shopping spree and start spending lots of money on
expensive computer parts, there are some important questions you should
answer which will guide your purchases:

-   What will be the main function of the computer?
-   What useful parts do you have on hand, from an old computer or
    otherwise?
-   How much can you afford to spend on the system?
-   Some functions benefit from certain components more then others.
    What components, if any, should you skimp on to afford better
    components elsewhere?
-   Do you want to upgrade your computer later, or will you be content
    with your build?

## What operating system am I going to use?

Before you buy components, be sure that they are supported by the
operating system you plan to use. Almost all commonly available PC
devices have drivers (small programs that allow the operating system to
recognize and work with a hardware device) available for current
versions of Windows. If you want to run an alternative operating system,
you\'ll have to do some research to make sure your hardware choice will
be compatible. Many alternatives have extensive \'Hardware Compatibility
Lists\' (HCLs) as well as software compatibility.

### Main operating systems available

-   **Microsoft Windows** - Windows 10/11
    (Home/Pro).
-   **Popular Linux Distros** - Ubuntu, Linux
    Mint, OpenSUSE,
    Fedora "wikilink"),
    Debian, and others
-   **Popular BSD Variants** - FreeBSD,
    OpenBSD, NetBSD, and
    others
-   **Android** - A variety of Android based operating systems exist for
    x86 Personal computers. While not ideal for the desktop form factor,
    they are free and offer compatibility with Android\'s software
    library.
-   **MacOS** - You can install MacOS on non-Apple hardware which is
    called \"Hackintosh\" in which an end user installs MacOS on a
    non-Apple computer. Be warned that this is risky and takes more
    knowledge than other operating systems.

### Windows information and hardware support lists

**Microsoft Windows** is a series of operating systems made by the
Microsoft corporation. Thanks to its popularity and widespread support
Windows is ideal for most personal computing and fits the needs or wants
of just about anyone: gamers, video/graphics editors, office workers, or
the average user who wants to surf the web and play a bit of solitaire.

In general Windows supports most available consumer processors from AMD
or Intel, as well as most internal and external devices, including
Graphics Cards, Wi-Fi adapters, and specialty hardware.

For general consumers, Windows comes in a few flavors:

-   Windows 11 Home is the basic version of Windows 11 and costs about
    \$140, but purchases from bulk retailers can be as cheap as \$50.
-   Windows 11 Pro is the more advanced version of Windows 11 and costs
    about \$200. This version includes business-oriented features like
    drive encryption, better virtual machine support and a built-in
    remote desktop function.
-   Windows 11 Pro for Workstations provides support for
    workstation-class hardware such as motherboards with multiple
    processor sockets and costs \$310.

If you are a student you may be able to get a free version of Windows 11
through your school using Azure Dev Teaching (formerly Imagine Premium).

Any Windows 7, 8, 8.1 or 10 product key can be used to activate a copy
of Windows 11. This essentially gives you a free upgrade from an older
version of Windows to the latest.

Microsoft maintains a list of
hardware
compatible with Windows.

### Linux information and hardware support lists

As one of the most popular open-source (free) operating systems,
**GNU/Linux** is a good alternative. Linux is a UNIX-like series of
operating systems and comes in many different distributions, called
\"distros\" for short. Popular distros of Linux intended for the desktop
include Ubuntu, Debian,
openSUSE, MX Linux,
Elementary OS,
Fedora "wikilink"),
KDE, Linux Mint, and
Arch Linux.

Linux has applications that can match most of the functionality of their
proprietary alternatives. It should be noted, however, that many popular
programs are not available for Linux, and the only way to run them is
with special compatibility layers like
Wine "wikilink"), which may or may not work with a
specific program, or could only run with significant issues.

Unlike Windows, drivers in Linux are usually included in the distro.
This means different distributions will support different hardware
(generally more \'bleeding-edge\' distributions will support newer
hardware -- look at Fedora, SUSE or Ubuntu, compared to the latest
stable release of Debian). A search online will normally establish
compatibility, otherwise a good rule of thumb to figure out
compatibility is to buy hardware that is 12 to 18 months old, as it most
likely has Linux support with most distributions, but won\'t be too old.

Graphics Drivers on Linux are interesting. AMD GPUs typically work fine
out of the box thanks to the manufacturer backed open source AMDGPU
driver project, where the community open source
nouveau "wikilink") project generally works well,
but not to the same level as Nvidia\'s Proprietary drivers, which many
distros do not include out of the box due to the licensing used by the
driver. Intel Integrated Graphics typically works very well in Linux.

### BSDs information and hardware support lists

**BSD**, or the **Berkeley Software Distribution**, is also a UNIX-Like
series of operating systems and could be considered the alternative to
Linux. BSD is an open-source (free) operating system and has its own
descendants, such as FreeBSD and
OpenBSD. Unlike Linux, BSD tends not to support
\"new\" hardware but can handle a lot of both older and modern
components. BSD and Linux share a variety of applications supported on
both operating systems.

-   DesktopBSD, see FreeBSD
    5.4/i386
    and FreeBSD
    5.4/amd64
-   Dragonfly
    BSD
-   FreeBSD
-   NetBSD
-   OpenBSD
-   PC-BSD, see FreeBSD
    6.0/i386

### Hackintosh

!A Hackintosh A
Hackintosh is a computer based on commodity
hardware which runs macOS. This is **extremely**
risky and could end in utter failure if it is not done properly. macOS
is designed with Apple computers in mind and trying to port them to a PC
is risky and difficult. If you still want to attempt the same, read
this.

1.  You\'ll be violating the Apple EULA.
2.  You should be using a comparable Intel CPU which should\'ve been
    used by Apple in one of their computers. Although 14th gen Intel
    CPUs and 700-series motherboards are available, 10th gen Intel CPUs
    and 400-series motherboards are the last components fully supported
    by macOS.
3.  Apple is moving away from X86 CPUs, and your configuration may not
    work in the future. Updating between releases could be difficult
    even before this transition.
4.  CPU choice and graphics also matter. Look up your CPU/GPU
    combination to see if it works.
5.  You\'ll need to (mostly) get modified installers, as the official
    installers may block installation.
6.  You\'ll need patience and tinkering up with things if something goes
    wrong. An unsupported motherboard could even be destroyed by macOS.

+----------------------+----------------------+----------------------+
| CPU                  | CPU supported?       | iGPU supported?      |
+======================+======================+======================+
| AMD Ryzen            | A workstation was originally a single-user computer with more muscle
than a PC intended to support a demanding technical application, like
CAD or complicated array-based simulations of real world phenomena. Once
the domain of cutting edge computer companies, this category has
experienced a rebirth as high performance and reliable PCs for
professional use. Unlike a gaming PC, reliability becomes much more
important - Time is money after all.

For any of the following uses, you will want

-   A solid and reliable power supply
-   A processor and motherboard platform that supports ECC
    memory.
-   Lots of ECC memory more reliability.
-   A 64 bit version of the OS to take full advantage of the extra ram
    and software features used by many workstation programs.
-   A GPU that can run desired applications on multiple high resolution
    displays.

  PC level                   Budget      PC case                       Motherboard                      CPU                                      CPU cooler                      RAM                                     Graphics                                                      Storage                                      Power supply
  -------------------------- ----------- ----------------------------- -------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------- --------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------
  **Mid-range**              \~\$800     Basic micro ATX case (\$60)   B660 DDR4 motherboard (\$100)    Intel Core i5-13400 (\$210)              Intel stock cooler (included)   16 GB DDR4-3200 (2 x 8 GB) (\$30)       Nvidia T600 4 GB (\$220)                                      1 TB PCIe 3.0 SSD (\$50)                     600 W Gold power supply (\$140)
  **Upper mid-range**        \~\$1000    Basic micro ATX case (\$60)   B660 DDR4 motherboard (\$100)    Intel Core i5-13500 (\$260)              Intel stock cooler (included)   16 GB DDR4-3200 (2 x 8 GB) (\$30)       Nvidia T1000 4 GB (\$320)                                     1 TB PCIe 3.0 SSD (\$50)                     600 W Gold power supply (\$140)
  **Lower high-end**         \~\$1200    Basic micro ATX case (\$60)   B660 DDR4 motherboard (\$100)    Intel Core i5-13600K (\$300)             Mid-range cooler (\$40)         32 GB DDR4-3600 (2 x 16 GB) (\$60)      Nvidia RTX A2000 6 GB (\$450)                                 1 TB PCIe 3.0 SSD (\$50)                     650 W Gold power supply (\$150)
  **High-end**               \~\$1500    Basic micro ATX case (\$60)   B760 DDR5 motherboard (\$140)    Intel Core i5-13600K (\$300)             Mid-range cooler (\$40)         32 GB DDR5-5200 (2 x 16 GB) (\$90)      Nvidia RTX A2000 12 GB (\$500)                                1 TB PCIe 4.0 SSD (\$80)                     850 W Gold power supply (\$230)
  **Upper high-end**         \~\$2000    Premium ATX case (\$160)      Z790 DDR5 motherboard (\$380)    Intel Core i7-13700K (\$440)             Mid-range cooler (\$40)         32 GB DDR5-5600 (2 x 16 GB) (\$100)     Nvidia RTX A2000 12 GB (\$500)                                2 TB PCIe 4.0 SSD (\$130)                    850 W Gold power supply (\$230)
  **Flagship**               \~\$2500    Premium ATX case (\$160)      Z790 DDR5 motherboard (\$380)    Intel Core i7-13700K (\$440)             Mid-range cooler (\$40)         32 GB DDR5-5600 (2 x 16 GB) (\$100)     Nvidia RTX 4000 Ada 20 GB (\$1200)                            2 TB PCIe 4.0 SSD (\$130)                    850 W Gold power supply (\$230)
  **True flagship**          \~\$3000    Premium ATX case (\$160)      Z790 DDR5 motherboard (\$380)    Intel Core i9-13900K (\$590)             Premium liquid cooler (\$180)   64 GB DDR5-5600 (2 x 32 GB) (\$190)     Nvidia RTX 4000 Ada 20 GB (\$1200)                            4 TB PCIe 4.0 SSD (\$250)                    1000 W Gold power supply (\$280)
  **Ultimate flagship**      \~\$4000    Premium ATX case (\$160)      Z790 DDR5 motherboard (\$380)    Intel Core i9-13900KS (\$720)            Premium liquid cooler (\$180)   128 GB DDR5-6400 (4 x 32 GB) (\$560)    Nvidia RTX 4000 Ada 20 GB (\$1200)                            4 TB PCIe 4.0 SSD (\$250)                    1000 W Platinum power supply (\$350)
  **Ultimate flagship v2**   \~\$6000    Premium ATX case (\$160)      Z790 DDR5 motherboard (\$380)    Intel Core i9-13900KS (\$720)            Premium liquid cooler (\$180)   128 GB DDR5-7200 (4 x 32 GB) (\$800)    Nvidia RTX 4500 Ada 24 GB (\$2500)                            2 x 4 TB PCIe 4.0 SSD RAID0 array (\$500)    1200 W Platinum power supply (\$450)
  **Ultimate flagship v3**   \~\$10000   Premium ATX case (\$160)      sWRX8 DDR4 motherboard (\$800)   AMD Ryzen Threadripper 5975WX (\$2400)   Premium liquid cooler (\$180)   256 GB DDR4-3600 (8 x 32 GB) (\$400)    Nvidia RTX 6000 Ada 48 GB (\$6500)                            4 x 4 TB PCIe 4.0 SSD RAID0 array (\$1000)   1200 W Platinum power supply (\$450)
  **Ultimate flagship v4**   \~\$20000   Premium ATX case (\$160)      sWRX8 DDR4 motherboard (\$800)   AMD Ryzen Threadripper 5995WX (\$4600)   Premium liquid cooler (\$180)   512 GB DDR4-3600 (8 x 64 GB) (\$1000)   Dual Nvidia RTX 6000 Ada 48 GB GPUs (96 GB total) (\$13000)   4 x 4 TB PCIe 4.0 SSD RAID0 array (\$1000)   1500 W Platinum power supply (\$650)

  : Typical PC build by budget

#### Video editing

Big and fast storage drives are key. Solid State Drives in RAID0 as
working space with multiple multi Terabyte or larger drives for storage
is a good target. A large amount of memory would be beneficial, as would
a fast CPU, with many cores/threads, especially if you intend to render
effects or wish to quickly transcode video. Most editing and transcoding
programs utilize some form of GPU acceleration (primarily OpenCL and/or
CUDA), where the graphics processor is used, along with the CPU, to
perform many calculations at the same time, greatly reducing processing
time, compared to CPU-only processing.

#### Music production

Plenty of disk space and RAM is important, but a music production
(recording and mixing) workstation is chiefly distinguished by
specialized external components -- studio reference monitors instead of
normal speakers, mixing consoles, microphones, etc. Even the acoustics
of the room your computer is in becomes an important factor. If you want
to record external sources, like vocals or instruments, you\'ll need an
audio interface which allows you to plug mics or instruments into your
computer.

Computers meant to be installed near live recordings often use near or
totally silent cooling solutions.

Audio interfaces allow anything from a single microphone or instrument
on up to pro level systems that have 32 or more simultaneous inputs.
These separate inputs will allow you to record each one as a separate
track in your DAW. Most use Steinberg\'s ASIO interface (a software
driver that connects your hardware to your DAW software). If you don\'t
wish to invest in anything other than the onboard sound card your
computer comes with, consider ASIO4All, a free driver that imitates the
ASIO framework for almost any sound card.

One piece of advice, if you have extra money, get better microphones -
even if you have to trade the Bluesmobile.

#### CAD/CAM

(**C**omputer **A**ssisted **D**esign / **C**omputer **A**ided
**M**anufacturing)

A CAD/CAM workstation is usually a machine that runs a single, very
intense, application. These machines often utilize specialized video
hardware, like the Nvidia Quadro andAMD
Radeon Pro series of GPUs, which are designed
specifically for CAD/CAM rendering. Since these machines are usually
devoted to a single, expensive, application it\'s especially important
to pay close attention to the requirements of that application. Spec the
hardware to support the software - always a good idea but especially
important here.

Some examples of this specialized software are Autodesk 3ds
Max, Autodesk
Maya, AutoCAD,
Cinema 4D and Maxwell
Render amongst many
others.

### Mining rig

A mining rig is a computer designed to mine cryptocurrency with the use
of multiple high-end GPUs. Graphics cards are the most important for
mining. You should get a case and motherboard that are specifically
designed for multiple graphics cards. To supply all of power to the
components, you will need a Gold or better power supply capable of
supplying lots of power. CPU, RAM and storage are the lowest priorities.

  PC level                   Budget      PC case                       Motherboard                        CPU                          CPU cooler                      RAM                                 Graphics                                                    Storage                  Power supply
  -------------------------- ----------- ----------------------------- ---------------------------------- ---------------------------- ------------------------------- ----------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------ ----------------------------------------------
  **Mid-range**              \~\$800     Basic ATX case (\$80)         B660 DDR4 motherboard (\$100)      Intel Celeron G6900 (\$50)   Intel stock cooler (included)   16 GB DDR4-3200 (2 x 8 GB) (\$30)   Nvidia GeForce RTX 4060 Ti 8 GB (\$400)                     240 GB SATA SSD (\$15)   600 W Gold power supply (\$140)
  **Upper mid-range**        \~\$1000    Basic ATX case (\$80)         B660 DDR4 motherboard (\$100)      Intel Celeron G6900 (\$50)   Intel stock cooler (included)   16 GB DDR4-3200 (2 x 8 GB) (\$30)   Nvidia GeForce RTX 4070 12 GB (\$600)                       240 GB SATA SSD (\$15)   650 W Gold power supply (\$150)
  **Lower high-end**         \~\$1200    Basic ATX case (\$80)         B660 DDR4 motherboard (\$100)      Intel Celeron G6900 (\$50)   Intel stock cooler (included)   16 GB DDR4-3200 (2 x 8 GB) (\$30)   Nvidia GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB (\$800)                    240 GB SATA SSD (\$15)   750 W Gold power supply (\$190)
  **High-end**               \~\$1500    Basic ATX case (\$80)         B660 DDR4 motherboard (\$100)      Intel Celeron G6900 (\$50)   Intel stock cooler (included)   16 GB DDR4-3200 (2 x 8 GB) (\$30)   Nvidia GeForce RTX 4080 16 GB (\$1150)                      240 GB SATA SSD (\$15)   850 W Gold power supply (\$230)
  **Upper high-end**         \~\$2000    Basic ATX case (\$80)         B660 DDR4 motherboard (\$100)      Intel Celeron G6900 (\$50)   Intel stock cooler (included)   16 GB DDR4-3200 (2 x 8 GB) (\$30)   Nvidia GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB (\$1600)                      240 GB SATA SSD (\$15)   1000 W Gold power supply (\$280)
  **Flagship**               \~\$2500    Premium ATX case (\$160)      B760 DDR5 motherboard (\$140)      Intel Celeron G6900 (\$50)   Intel stock cooler (included)   16 GB DDR5-4800 (2 x 8 GB) (\$55)   Nvidia GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB (\$1600)                      240 GB SATA SSD (\$15)   1200 W Gold power supply (\$340)
  **True flagship**          \~\$3000    Mining case (6 GPUs) (\$50)   Biostar TB360-BTC PRO 2.0 (\$60)   Intel Core i3-8100 (\$60)    Intel stock cooler (included)   16 GB DDR4-3200 (2 x 8 GB) (\$30)   2 x Nvidia GeForce RTX 4080 16 GB (32 GB total) (\$2300)    240 GB SATA SSD (\$15)   1200 W Gold power supply (\$340)
  **Ultimate flagship**      \~\$4000    Mining case (6 GPUs) (\$50)   Biostar TB360-BTC PRO 2.0 (\$60)   Intel Core i3-8100 (\$60)    Intel stock cooler (included)   16 GB DDR4-3200 (2 x 8 GB) (\$30)   2 x Nvidia GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB (48 GB total) (\$3200)    240 GB SATA SSD (\$15)   1500 W Gold power supply (\$420)
  **Ultimate flagship v2**   \~\$6000    Mining case (6 GPUs) (\$50)   Biostar TB360-BTC PRO 2.0 (\$60)   Intel Core i3-8100 (\$60)    Intel stock cooler (included)   16 GB DDR4-3200 (2 x 8 GB) (\$30)   3 x Nvidia GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB (72 GB total) (\$4800)    240 GB SATA SSD (\$15)   2300 W Platinum power supply (\$800)
  **Ultimate flagship v3**   \~\$10000   Mining case (6 GPUs) (\$50)   Biostar TB360-BTC PRO 2.0 (\$60)   Intel Core i3-8100 (\$60)    Intel stock cooler (included)   16 GB DDR4-3200 (2 x 8 GB) (\$30)   6 x Nvidia GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB (144 GB total) (\$9600)   240 GB SATA SSD (\$15)   Dual 2300 W Platinum power supplies (\$1600)

  : Typical PC build by budget

## Do I plan on overclocking my computer?

!An aftermarket CPU heatsink side by side with a stock heatsink. Larger
heatsinks help keep components cool during overclocking, and larger fans
often help either move much more air through a system for the same level
of noise, or move the same amount of air for much less
noise.
Overclocking consists of running components at faster internal speeds
than they are rated for, gaining a bit of extra performance out of the
part. If you are serious about overclocking your computer, you need to
do extensive research into the components you select, as some parts
respond to overclocking better than others. Overclocking usually voids
your warranty and is risky as you can shorten the life of your
components or even burn them out completely! You need to take cooling
the computer more seriously as overclocking generates additional heat.
Anything from a few extra fans to a liquid-cooled system may be
necessary depending on the nature of your system.

Many parts that are the same model can overclock differently due to
manufacturer binning, leading to a \"Silicon Lottery\" of sorts. For
example, consider three different Raptor Lake 13700K CPUs that are
installed in identical systems - a good chip can clock up to about 5.7
GHz, an excellent one may be able to hit 6.1 GHz, while a bad one may
stop at 5.3 GHz. If you are willing to pay more, some vendors sell
pre-binned CPUs which have been previously tested to overclock well.

Most AMD processors can be overclocked. For Intel processors, only the K
series CPUs (which cost about \$20-40 USD more than the normal version)
and the Extreme Series generally allow full overclocking.

## Do I plan on underclocking my computer?

This can be ideal for always-on entertainment systems. Underclocked
parts run cooler, often enabling passive cooling options to be used,
which leads to a much quieter system, and you\'ll also save on power.

However, you\'ll lose performance from the CPU. You may wish to
*undervolt* the CPU instead; see the
Silencing section to find out how.

## Can I use any of the parts from my old computer?

!A 2017 PC built in a case from the 1990\'s. While this decision
sacrifices front IO and modern airflow designs, it does save money on
the case. Some communities exist that build \"Sleeper PCs\", modern high
performance computers built to look like under powered or obsolete
computers.
This depends on your situation; if your computer is more than four years
old, chances are that most of the parts will be too old, slow or
incompatible for your new machine. On the other hand, if you are
upgrading from a fairly new machine, you may be able to use many of the
parts. All of this assumes the old computer will no longer be used. If
you, or someone else, is going to continue using your old computer,
it\'s probably best just to leave it intact.

One important point -- if you are selling your old computer it\'s a good
idea to erase the hard drive before giving it to its new owner. A simple
\'delete\' command does not actually erase the data on your hard
drive,leaving things like financial documents, passwords, healthcare
records, browser history, and personal photos potentially recoverable
through easy to use recovery software. To avoid this, programs are
available that will effectively \'shred\' your data, making it
unrecoverable. Driver software that comes with some hard drives may also
have programs to do this, that write 0s or 1s (either way,
\"blankness\") to the whole drive. Lower-tech approaches include
drilling a few holes in the drive or taking a blowtorch to it.
Obviously, either prevents it from being used again (Be planet friendly
and try to avoid this).

Since monitor technology moves quite slowly, you can probably keep your
current monitor and use it on the new computer if it\'s of sufficient
size and clarity for your work. The same can go for keyboards, as well
as mice, printers, scanners, and possibly speaker sets. On the inside,
you may be able to take out the storage drive, and expansion cards. If
your components are especially old, the features integrated into the
motherboard may actually be superior to your old components, so testing
with and without these your old devices is recommended. Sometimes so
much is used from the old computer, that the line between an upgrade and
a new computer can become blurred.

Reusing a hard drive is an easy way to keep data from your old computer.
With most Windows operating systems moving a boot drive from one
motherboard to another will entail a series of reboots and installation
of new drivers. Back up your data before trying this, and note that
Windows will usually ask you to reactivate. Keep the licence key ready.

## Where do I find the parts?

!Computer retailers can be a handy source for parts, and often offer
easy
returns.
Once you have decided what you're going to use your computer for, and
have reviewed which parts are available for reuse, you should make a
list of what components you will need to buy. A few hours of research
can save you years of regret, so make sure that the computer you build
will do what you need it to do.

Computer terminology can be confusing, so if there are terms you don't
understand, be sure to look them up. Wikipedia is an excellent place to
start if, for example, you're not clear on the difference between, say,
DDR4 and DDR5 memory.

There are several places to buy parts:

-   **Internet retailers** generally offer the best price for new parts.
    If a part needs to be returned, you may be stuck for the shipping;
    check return policies before you purchase.
-   **Auction sites** like eBay and several others offer very good
    prices for used parts. This is especially useful for parts which do
    not wear out, like RAM, and unlike HDD/SSDs. Returns can be
    problematic or impossible. Some auctions may not be legitimate.
    Always check the shipping cost before you bid.
-   **Local PC shops** - Their prices are often higher, but they may
    make up for this by providing a lot of expertise. Get opinions from
    other sources, however, as they may be eager to sell you parts you
    don\'t need.
-   **Big box stores** often lack technical expertise and charge higher
    prices, but can be useful because they usually handle returns
    quickly. Also good if you need something right away.
-   **Trade shows** that occur from time to time also provide a good
    place to shop, as the prices are often significantly reduced, and
    the variety of prefabricated computers built towards specific
    computing needs tend to be higher.

Also, your local town dump may have a special section for computers and
monitors that others have got rid of. These can be more or less brand
new computers with trivial problems such as a busted power supply or
faulty cables. Of course if the dump does have such a section, you
should ask permission of those in charge. They\'re usually glad to let
you go through it, but don\'t leave a mess. Taking advantage of this can
yield incredible finds, with a price tag of nothing or very little.

### OEM vs Retail

!An OEM CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 Pro
4750G.
Many hardware manufacturers will sell the same components in both OEM
and Retail versions. Retail hardware is intended to be sold to the
end-user through retail channels, and will come fully packaged with
manuals, accessories, software, etc. OEM stands for \"original equipment
manufacturer\"; items labeled as such are intended to be sold in bulk
for use by firms which integrate the components into their own products.

However, many online stores will offer OEM hardware at (slightly)
cheaper prices than the corresponding retail versions. You will usually
receive such an item by itself in an anti-static bag. It may or may not
come with a manual or a CD containing drivers. Warranties on OEM parts
may often be shorter or nonexistent, and sometimes require you to obtain
support through your vendor, rather than the manufacturer. OEM
components are also sometimes specified differently than their retail
counterparts, parts may be clocked slower, and ports or features may be
missing. Some of the support may be less (as in the case of Microsoft).
Again, do your research.

## What should affect the choice of any part/peripheral?

Many things should be taken into account when deciding what parts to
buy. Below are some things to consider.

### Compatibility

You'll want to make sure that all the parts you buy work together
without problems. The CPU, the motherboard, and the RAM in particular
must be compatible with each other. Check the motherboard
manufacturer\'s web site; most will list compatible RAM and processors.
Often quality RAM that is not on the approved list (but is of the proper
type) will work anyway, but the manufacturers list of processors should
be rigidly adhered to, as even when a processor is supported by the
socket on the motherboard, the motherboard firmware may not support it.

You'll also want to make sure that your operating system supports the
hardware you choose. Windows is supported by almost everything, though
watch out for older components if you\'re planning on using Windows 11.
If you have any interest in running Linux, or another operating system
now or in the future, buy parts that are supported by that OS (Operating
System). Check online to make sure there is no history of your chosen
components causing issues when used together, or with software you plan
on running.

### Ergonomics

!This ergonomic mouse looks strange, but it is designed to reduce
strain on your
hands.
Ergonomics is the science of designing things so that they work with the
human body. This is obviously important when choosing peripherals such
as a keyboard or mouse but should also be considered when selecting a
monitor, and especially when setting up the computer for your use. If
your wrist hurts or you're getting a crick in your neck, look at the
physical setup of your computer, check your chair height and posture. An
ounce of prevention here can avert troublesome repetitive strain
injuries. Learning to type without looking down at the keyboard is very
useful for avoiding neck strain.

### Operating temperature

!A computer chip that has burnt out. Preventing damage like this is
much easier then repairing
it.
Modern components, notably processors, GPUs, RAM, and some elements on
the motherboard, are very small and draw a lot of power. A small area
doing a lot of work with a lot of power leads to high temperatures.
Various factors can cause electronic parts to break down over time and
all of these factors are exacerbated by heat. Very high temperatures can
burn out chips almost instantly, while running hot can shorten the
useful life of a part, so the cooler we can make these parts, the
better.

If you are not going to overclock your system, stock air cooling, when
paired with a good case with adequate fans, should be enough to keep
your system cool. If you want a quiet computer then components designed
for passive (fan-less) cooling can be paired with very low noise case
fans (or a well-vented case). In general, high-end parts will require
more attention to cooling.

To keep your system at a proper operating temperature, you can monitor
vital components with software (which usually comes with your
motherboard). If you are seeing high temps, make sure the interior of
your case is dust free, and remember that most cooling solutions can not
reduce the temperature of your computer parts below room temperature. Of
course, unless you happen to have your computer outdoors in a climate
such as the Sahara, room temperature will be well within the thermal
limits of any component on your computer.

Which brings us to overclocking. It\'s specialty cooling solutions that
make overclocking possible, a processor that might run stable at a
maximum of 4.4 GHz at  could hit speeds
as high as 5.6 GHz with specialized cooling systems. A sensible person
wanting a 20% overclock could add a special fan/heatsink to his CPU and
some extra case fans. An enthusiast seeking a major overclock might go
with a water-cooling solution for the CPU and GPU and sometimes other
chips. The real fanatics have been known to use liquid nitrogen or total
immersion in pure water or oil. You should not try any of the more
extreme solutions unless you really know what you\'re doing.

### Price

Today, there are a wide array of hardware components and peripherals
tailored to fit every home computing need and budget. With all these
options to choose from, it can be a bit overwhelming if you\'ve never
bought computer parts before. Shop around and remember to factor in
shipping and handling, and taxes. Some places may be priced a bit
higher, but offer perks such as free shipping, limited warranties, or
24-hour tech support. Many websites, such as CNET
and ZDNet offer comprehensive reviews, user
ratings, and links to stores, including price comparisons.

Since prices for any given part are always falling, it's tempting to
just wait until the part you want goes down in price. Unfortunately the
reason prices decline is that better/faster parts are coming out all the
time, so the part you want this year that costs \$500 may well be \$300
next year, but by that time you won't want it any more, you'll want the
new, better part that still costs \$500. At some point you've got to get
on the bus and ride, even if the prices are still falling.

Usually the best bet is to buy just behind the bleeding edge, where,
typically, you can get 90% of the performance of the top of the line
part for 50% or 60% of the price. That last 10% is very expensive and if
you don't need it, you can save a lot of money with the second-tier
part.

It\'s a good idea to think about future upgradeability when selecting
some components. While the computer that you\'re building today may be
fine for your current needs you may want to upgrade it later. So look
for components that support the newest standards and have room for
future expansion, like a motherboard that will allow you to fit more
memory than you are planning to use, or a case that has room for extra
storage drives. If your current machine is maxed out the only possible
upgrade is often a new machine.

You may also find that by over-specifying in some areas you can save
money on others, e.g. if you don\'t currently need WiFi but you do need
Bluetooth then you might want to purchase a WiFi card anyway as some of
the higher end WiFi cards also support Bluetooth.

### Performance

If money is no object just buy the most powerful components you can
find. If, like most of us, there are limits to what you can/want to
spend, then focus on those areas where more powerful parts will pay off
for you and scrimp on others. Always look for that sweet spot on the
price/performance curve where you get the most bang for your buck. When
deciding where to cut back, remember that you have the option to upgrade
in the future. Some components are easier to upgrade then others such as
RAM, where an upgrade is as simple as popping more into a free slot.
Other upgrades, such as replacing the CPU or GPU with a better model are
more costly, as the original often serves no purpose following the
upgrade (But may be resold online to recoup some of the cost).

## Primary components

These are the components that will be the core of your new computer. It
is impractical to put together a PC compatible computer without these
components and a bare set of peripherals.

!Exploded view of a personal computer:\
1 Monitor\
2 Motherboard\
3 CPU
(Microprocessor)\
4 ATA sockets\
5 Main memory (RAM)\
6 Expansion cards\
7 Power supply unit\
8 Optical disc drive\
9 Hard disk drive
(HDD)\
10 Keyboard\
11 Mouse "wikilink")
 4 ATA sockets 5 Main memory (RAM) 6 Expansion cards 7 Power supply unit 8 Optical disc drive 9 Hard disk drive (HDD) 10 Keyboard 11 Mouse "){width="350"}

### Case

The case is one of the most practical straightforward parts of a
computer. A case can also be aesthetically pleasing, and help improve
your computing experience.

#### Form factor

Form factor is the specification that provides the physical measurements
for the size of components supported. Your case should support one or
more of the following common formfactors. It\'s a good idea to match the
formfactor of a case with a motherboard.

##### Large Form Factors

-   EATX or Extended ATX boards are
    12x13cm. This format is almost
    exclusive to workstation and high end gaming computers.
-   ATX is the most common form factor and
    is the de facto standard. Supports about 7 expansion slots.

These formfactors offer the most amount of flexibility in expansion.
These spacious cases are often easy to work in, but hard to move around.

##### Small Form Factors

-   microATX, or µATX, is smaller than
    standard ATX. Many cases that support ATX also allow micro-ATX.
    Supports about 4 expansion slots.
-   Mini-ITX is even smaller at
    6.75cm square. Supports at most one
    expansion slot.

These form-factors let you build relatively small and even portable
computers, ideal for taking to LAN parties or for people who frequently
move.

Slim cases are offered in these form factors. These cases are
significantly thinner then regular cases. However, you will be limited
to using slim expansion cards as well. You may also need to use laptop
components in some areas to save space depending on the case.

Particularly small cases can be hard to work in and offer limited
expansion. They may have airflow problems, and cable management can be a
challenge. You may need to find low profile cooling units, and the case
may not support regular sized power supplies. You may also want to get
angled cables or adapters if spacing between parts is tight, and you
suspect it would make your work easier.

#### Drive Bays

Internal storage drives take up space in the case, so make sure you
consider how many drives you will need and what size slot they require.
Not all cases support every drive size.

There are several bay sizes, and each has a typical use.

-   5.25\" bays typically hold optical drives, fan controllers, or other
    accessories, and are external facing.
-   3.5\" external bays are typically used for smaller versions of
    accessories found in 5.25\" bays (But not optical drives).
-   3.5\" internal bays are used for holding desktop hard disks or an
    SSD.
-   2.5\" bays are typically used for holding an SSD or laptop size hard
    disk.

Note that it\'s possible to buy adapters to fit items that go in small
bays (usually hard drives) into large bays.

Many cases offer modular drive bays, which can be removed if they are
not needed to make space for other components. This can be useful if a
drive bay is getting in the way of another component, such as a long
graphics card.

Some cases designed for minimalist aesthetics or gaming will not use
external drive bays to make room for better airflow. If you use a case
like this and need an optical drive, you will have to get an external
drive.

If you are planning on using an M.2 SSD, your motherboard will provide a
slot for your storage device. Some cases will have dedicated mounting
points for 2.5\" storage drives, which can free up space in other areas
of the case.

#### Front IO

Almost all cases will feature a power on button on the front of the
case. Other common IO featured on the front of cases includes audio
jacks, USB ports, a reset button, status lights, and other features.

It\'s important to consider where the front IO is on the case you buy,
and how it factors into your workspace. For example, if your case will
just barely fit under your desk, IO located on the very top of your case
could be hard to use.

In rare instances when you are not purchasing a new case you need new to
get front IO separately from your case, (For example, when using an very
old, nonstandard, or DIY case) there are simple kits available that give
you a power button and a few IO ports. Alternatively you can manually
use a jumper each time you want to turn the computer on, though this is
somewhat tedious.

#### Computer Aesthetics

Cases are typically made of steel or more rarely aluminum, and usually
have accents made out of plastic. More exotic case materials are
sometimes used such as wood.

Some cases hide their 5.25\" bays with a door for a cleaner look. This
has a practical benefit of helping reduce drive noise.

A quality case will include features that make it easier to manage
cables. Besides looking better, by keeping cables out of the way and
orderly, maintenance and troubleshooting is made easier.

Cases typically mount the power supply in either the top of the case, or
the bottom. Some higher end cases will have a separate chamber for the
power supply, assisting cable management and giving it a degree
separation from the hot components in the rest of the case.

Many cases will have windows installed. These provide a view into the
system, and can highlight nice looking components. When moving a
computer with a windowed case, keep in mind that an acrylic window will
easily scratch, and a glass window may shatter. A solid sheet of metal
is best when it comes to blocking noise and durability.

Many gamers use components with RGB lighting to give their computer
flair. Keep in mind that there aren\'t really unified standards for RGB
lighting, so if you want to mix and match between different
manufacturers and coordinate the resulting lightshow you\'ll need to use
multiple software products at the same time. RGB LED light strips, or
their older counterpart cold cathode lights can be used to provide
lighting if your components lack integrated lights.

Some cases feature integral noise reducing foam, offering a clean look
while providing the benefits of noise reduction.

Many people like to mod their cases. There
are many easy mods that can be done before your computer is built (And
all electronics are removed from the case), such as painting the case a
different color, or giving it a funky coat of paint through Hydro
dipping

A case stand can be a good tool to use if you plan on placing your
computer on the ground, as it creates additional clearance from things
such as dirt, dust, and carpets.

You may want to use a dust cover for unused ports. This helps you avoid
trying to plug in devices into the wrong ports when reaching behind a
case, and helps make cleaning easier. Dust covers also exist for
external peripherals such as monitors if you plan on storing them away
for a while.

### Cooling

#### Fans

!Two fans of different
sizes.

Most cases mount one or more case fans, distinct from the fans that may
be attached to the power supply, video card and CPU. The purpose of a
case mounted fan is to move air through the system and carry excess heat
out. This is why some cases may have two or more fans mounted in a
push-pull configuration (one fan pulls cool outside air in, the other
pushes hot interior air out). The more air these fans can move, the
cooler things will generally be.

Fans for case cooling currently come in two common sizes, 80 mm and
120 mm, and computer cases tend to support one size or the other. The
larger 120 mm fans spin more slowly while moving a given volume of air,
and slower fans are usually quieter fans, so the 120 mm fans are
generally preferred, even though they cost a little more. Good 80 mm
fans can still be fairly quiet, so while fan size is a factor, it
shouldn\'t be a deal-breaker if the case has other features you like.

Make sure the power plug on the chosen case fan is supported by your
motherboard; 3- and 4-pin connectors are common. Fans can also be
powered directly by the PSU, but in that configuration, the motherboard
can\'t control or report the fan\'s speed.

Variable speed fans with built-in temperature sensing are available.
Variable speed fans tend to run quieter than constant speed fans, as
they only move as much air as needed to maintain a set temperature
within the case or the power supply box. Under typical operating
conditions they may be barely audible.

Since fans run continuously when the computer is turned on, bearing
selection may be important for long life.

-   The least expensive fans use **sleeve bearings**. As the fan ages,
    the lubricant in the sleeve bearing dries out and eventually the
    bearing wears, allowing the fan blade to nutate or vibrate, making
    it very noisy. In severe cases the bearing may seize and the fan
    will stop turning entirely, possibly jeopardizing the computer when
    ventilation fails.
-   The most expensive fans tend to be those that use **ball bearings**,
    but they also have very long service lives. It isn\'t uncommon for a
    ball bearing fan to run continuously for 7 to 10 years --- possibly
    longer than the useful technological life of the computer within
    which it is mounted. Ball bearing fans tend to be slightly noisier
    than sleeve bearing fans.
-   A fairly recent type of fan bearing is a **magnetic** or
    **\"maglev\"** bearing, which uses a magnetic field to suspend the
    fan rotor without physical contact. Such fans exhibit practically
    zero bearing wear and barring a failure in their motor drive
    components, have essentially an infinite service life. Maglev
    bearings also tend to be completely silent, and when used in a
    variable speed fan, can produce practically silent ventilation.

The orientation of fans inside your case can have a big impact on
cooling, as well as how quickly dust builds up. Some cases will include
dust traps to reduce the amount of dust entering a system. Aftermarket
dust filters also exist, but can be harder to mount.

#### Water Cooling

!An all in one cooler mounted on a
CPU. A
water cooling system will cool parts by running water over a heatsink. a
pump moves the water in a closed loop, which goes to a radiator for
cooling. Additional parts, such as flow sensors and quick connects, can
make maintaining a water cooling setup easier. Since the radiator can be
placed anywhere, it can be much bigger then a typical heatsink, allowing
for more efficient cooling. Typically water cooling is used for the CPU,
but it can also be used for other components, such as graphics cards.
Custom water cooling setups can either use hard tubing or soft tubing.
Some manufacturers make All in One (AIO) watercooling units, which is
basically a water cooling solution that\'s prebuilt.

Compared to air cooling, water cooling adds significant cost,
complexity, and risk to a system build. However it can allow for quieter
operation, and a well built water cooling setup can look great.

#### Minor component cooling

While shopping for coolers you may see passive, fan, or even water
cooling solutions for RAM, chipsets, SSDs and other devices. These
devices do not typically produce significant heat, and do not require
additional cooling. These devices are mainly aimed at serious
overclockers and those who want to improve the aesthetics of these
components. However running components cooler to a point can be good for
their lifespan, and adding these components typically only hurts your
wallet.

### Power Supply

!A modular power supply on the left sits next to a non-modular power
supply on the right. By allowing you to select only the cables you need,
Modular power supplies make cable management much
easier.

#### Power Supply Basics

The power supply unit (PSU) is a device that converts the electricity
from the power grid into a form you can use. The power supply you choose
needs to supply enough stable DC power to all the components and even to
some of the peripherals. It needs also to be consistent, by complying
with accurate standard voltages, i.e. the 12 volt rail needs to supply
12 volts (within normal tolerances of 10% or so) steadily under any
foreseeable load, likewise the 3 and 5v rails at their respective
voltages. Cheap power supplies tend to fall down in these areas. There
are several tech-heavy websites that actually throw a multimeter on the
PSU in the course of a review, seek these out and make sure you select a
quality PSU.

#### PSU Specs

Power supplies typically use one of two ratings, one being the
continuous rating and the other being the peak rating. The continuous
rating is how much power can be delivered indefinitely, and the peak
rating is how much power can be delivered for a limited period of time.
You want to go by the continuous rating to be safe. There are several
calculators that try to help you select an adequate PSU for your system,
which are linked in the footer.

Your power supply should have the right number of connectors for your
needs e.g. six-pin PCI power, ATX12VO vs. 24-pin motherboard connectors,
etc. If you are planning on running two or more video cards in SLI
(NVIDIA) or Crossfire (AMD) mode, make sure your power supply is
certified for that use. Most power supplies will have cables long enough
for most any case, but some larger cases will make good cable management
difficult with power-supplies that have shorter cables.

Cheap power supplies often require you to select your mains voltage with
a switch. Higher quality power supplies have circuitry that actively
adjusts for incoming voltage, and thus do not need to be told what
voltage to expect. It\'s always a good idea to check to make sure a
power supply is compatible with the mains power used in your country
prior to use.

Choose an efficient PSU. Efficient PSUs run cooler and more quietly and
thus do not create as much noise which is important if you plan to sleep
or think in the same room with it or use it as a media center PC. They
also reduce energy usage, which in turn saves money on the electric
bill.

If your budget allows, consider opting for a modular PSU. These have
connectors that can be added or removed, which allows for more
versatility and also reduces clutter. The power supply also has an
exhaust fan that is responsible for cooling the power supply, as well as
providing a hot air exhaust for the entire case. Some power supplies
have two fans to promote this effect.

It is important to buy a power supply that can accommodate all of the
components involved. A bad or inadequate power supply can fail and
destroy not only itself, but potentially the rest of the computer, so
it\'s important to get a decent one. Keep in mind that having a
higher-rated power supply will not draw much more power than what your
computer actually uses, but it may decrease the efficiency of the unit
if significantly less power is being drawn then what the power supply is
rated for.

#### PSU accessories

A surge protector is a good idea. Not only does this help protect your
computer, it also can expand an outlet for more peripherals. Higher end
surge protectors often include protection for network cables as well.

To supplement a PSU, consider getting an Uninterruptible Power
Supply (UPS). This is a
device that provides a few minutes of temporary power to your computer
and monitor during a brownout or blackout giving you enough time to
safely shut down your computer. UPS units are typically external and
look and function like big power strips. Many consumer UPS units have
built in surge protectors. If you live in an area with poor power
quality or frequent blackouts, a UPS can help save your PSU from
significant wear.

### CPU (processor)

We discuss choosing a CPU in the next chapter, How To Assemble A
Desktop PC/Choosing the
parts/CPU.

### Motherboard

!A PC motherboard: IDE connectors and the motherboard power connector
(white with large holes) are on the left edge. Between them and the
large quadratic CPU socket in the lower middle are the longish RAM
sockets. The extension slots are above the CPU socket (two white, one
black) and the ports for external devices are on the right
edge. are on the left edge. Between them and the large quadratic CPU socket in the lower middle are the longish RAM sockets. The extension slots are above the CPU socket (two white, one black) and the ports for external devices are on the right edge."){width="350"}

The motherboard is a very important part of your computer. A good
motherboard allows a modest CPU and RAM to run at maximum efficiency
whereas a bad motherboard restricts high-end products to run only at
modest levels. Higher end motherboards often offer additional features,
such as faster built in networking, better built in audio, built in
Wi-Fi, a small display that shows diagnostic codes, better power
delivery to support overclocking and reliability, RGB LED controllers,
built in IO Shield, or other features. The difference between a cheap
and a quality motherboard is typically around \$100.

There are many things one must consider in choosing a motherboard: CPU
interface, Chipset, form factor, expansion slot interfaces, and other
connectors.

#### CPU interface

The CPU interface is the \"plug\" that your processor goes into. For
your processor to physically fit in the motherboard, the interface must
be an **exact match** to your processor. Intel currently has two
mainstream formats, the LGA 1700 for their current Core processors
(i7-13700K or i3-12100) or the LGA 1200 supporting their older
processors. AMD currently uses a few sockets: AM5 for their current
Ryzen CPUs (Ryzen 9 7950X or Ryzen 5 7600X), AM4 for older Ryzen
processors, and TR4 for their thread ripper processors.

Check with the motherboard manufacturer to ensure that the slot on the
motherboard will support the CPU you want to use. It is important to
know whether the motherboard\'s bus can support the exact CPU you plan
on using.

If the motherboard, CPU, and heatsink/fan are not compatible and
installed correctly, you can destroy the CPU and/or the motherboard in a
matter of seconds. Most modern processors come with a stock cooling fan
which will work well at stock speeds, stick with this if you have any
doubts.

#### Chipset

The Chipset is a piece of hardware integrated into the motherboard and
cannot be upgraded later. This often determines what processors are
supported by the motherboard, as well as how many lanes and the
generation of PCI Express, USB ports, and SATA ports/slots the
motherboard supports. USB and SATA ports can be expanded by add on
cards, but PCI express lanes are fixed. Cheaper motherboards tend to use
cheaper chipsets with reduced features.

#### UEFI

Motherboards come with a piece of software that called UEFI or BIOS in
older models. This software is responsible for preparing your computer
for use by an operating system, as well as for configuring low level
details of your system. Features offered by UEFI or BIOS vary quite a
bit between manufactures and product lines. Some UEFI or BIOS can be
updated, allowing for security fixes or new features to be added after
purchase, and many of these systems will feature some form of redundancy
to recover from a failed update (Which otherwise may turn the
motherboard into a paperweight). Other motherboards allow BIOS control
of overclocking of CPU, RAM and Graphics card which are much more stable
and safer for overclocking. Newer BIOS have temperature controls, and
functions that shut down the computer if the temperature gets too high.

Some motherboards are supported by open source firmware like
coreboot which can offer a fast and secure
booting environment.

#### M.2 and SATA interface

SATA (Serial ATA) connections for hard drives and optical drives. SATA
data connections are simple - one plug, one cable, one device. SATA
power connections follow the same principal.

The serial ATA (SATA) interface has a separate motherboard connection
for each drive that allow independent access and can increase the speed
at which drives work. The cables are also narrow, improving the flow of
air inside the case.

An M.2 Slot can be found on some motherboards to add an SSD. Unlike a
SATA Drive, M.2 drives are small enough to be mounted directly on the
motherboard.

#### Expansion slot interfaces

!PCI Express slots (from top to bottom: x4, x16, x1 and x16), compared
to an old 32-bit PCI slot
(bottom), compared to an old 32-bit PCI slot (bottom)"){width="300"}

Due to the evolution of new graphics cards on the serial PCI-Express
Technology, current newer motherboards have the following connections:

-   **PCI-Express(Gen 1/2/3/4) 16x/8x/4x** for mainstream graphics cards
    (PCI Express Gen 1 x16 is 4 times speed of AGP 8x)
-   **PCI-Express(Gen 1/2/3/4) 1x** for faster expansion cards
    (replacing older PCI)

+-------------------------------------------+-------+----+-----+-----+
| it:Costruire un
computer/Componenti

[^1]: intel :
    serious-gaming

[^2]: <https://www.pcgamesn.com/fastest-ddr4-ram>

[^3]: graphicscardhub:
    gpu-slot-type


# How To Assemble A Desktop PC/Assembly

Now that you have selected your parts, you get to what is arguably the
most fun part of the process: putting the parts together.

## Tools and equipment

!Combination flanged-hex/Phillips-head screw used in
computers
You won't need many tools to assemble your computer, in fact the only
one you must have is the screwdriver, but if you can get most of the
following together, you'll find things go a little easier.

### Basic tools

Before you begin building or refitting a computer, you should have some
basic tools:

1.  #2 Phillips-head (cross-shaped) screwdriver
2.  Needle-nose pliers
3.  A large level working space
4.  Brush

!An anti-static wrist strap with
crocodile
clip.

### Optional, but useful tools

Some other tools and equipment can come in handy as well, such as:

1.  Anti-static Wrist Strap (**Highly Recommended**)
2.  An Anti-static mat can help provide a safe place to set components
    down.
3.  Spring action parts grabber.
4.  Electrical tape
5.  Wire or nylon ties
6.  Flashlight, preferably hands-free
7.  A second, working computer to swap parts, look for tips, ask for
    help on-line, download drivers and patches, etc. - very useful
8.  A can of compressed air - useful when working with older parts that
    have collected dust. A better alternative but also more costly, is a
    vacuum cleaner designed for cleaning electronics.
9.  Magnetic screwdriver
10. Zip ties or velcro ties for cable management

## Preparation

Proper preparation is the key to a successful build. Before you begin,
make sure you have all the tools you will need, secure a clear, well-lit
workspace, gather all the components you'll be using and unpack them one
at a time, verifying that everything that is supposed to be there is
actually present. At this point you should leave the parts themselves in
their protective anti-static bags, and assemble all the accompanying
manuals. Now I know you want to get started, but trust me, *read the
manuals*, check the diagrams, make sure you understand where each part
goes and how it attaches. If there is anything you don't understand, now
is the time to do a little extra Internet research or call the
manufacturer with your questions.

Find a dry, well-ventilated place to do your work. You should have
plenty of light and if possible, you should choose an area without
carpet on the floor, as carpet tends to generate a lot of static. An
unfurnished basement is a good work location.

### Safety precautions

1.  Static electricity is the biggest danger to the expensive parts you
    are about to assemble. Even a tiny shock, which is much too small
    for you to feel, can damage or ruin the delicate electronic traces
    many times smaller than a human hair that make up your CPU, RAM and
    other chips. It's important to use your anti-static wrist strap to
    prevent damage to these components. Once you have the power supply
    installed in the case, clip the end of the wrist strap to the
    outside of the power supply. (Never plug your computer in while you
    are connected to it by a wrist strap.) This will ensure that you,
    the case and the power supply are all connected to a common ground,
    in other words there will be no inequality of charge that will allow
    a spark to jump from you to the case. It's also helpful to have an
    anti-static mat to set the case and other components on.
2.  Nobody but you is at fault if you shock your components with static
    electricity. Make sure that you take the precautions in the previous
    paragraph to ground yourself from static electricity. (Note: if you
    really must work on a computer and have not got proper anti-static
    equipment, it is *usually* OK if you make sure that you do not move
    about much; are not wearing any static-prone clothing; handle
    components by the edges; and regularly (once a minute or so), touch
    a grounded object.). The *case metal* of your PC\'s power supply
    will usually be a suitable grounded object (please note that the
    metal must be unpainted). As noted above, touch it every few minutes
    while you are working on your PC if you haven't got a wrist strap.
3.  Turn off your computer and switch off your Power Supply at the wall
    before installing or removing any components - if power is flowing
    to components as they are installed or removed, they can be
    seriously damaged. In order to have a computer properly grounded,
    you need it plugged in at the wall but turned off at the power
    supply and at the wall. The neutral line may be earthed.
4.  Never cut the grounding pin off your power cord. This \"safety
    ground\" stands between you and potentially lethal voltages inside
    the power supply.
5.  Be wary of sharp edges! Many lower-end PC cases have sharp,
    unfinished edges. This is especially so on interior surfaces, and
    where the case has been cut or punched-out. Use care and take your
    time to avoid cutting your hands. If your case has this problem, a
    little time with some sandpaper before you begin construction can
    spare you a lot of pain. Be extra careful not to cut yourself when
    installing the I/O Shield.
6.  Dismantling discrete electronic components such as your Power Supply
    or Monitor is dangerous. They contain high voltage capacitors, which
    can cause a severe electric shock if you touch them. These hold a
    charge even when the unit is not plugged in and are capable of
    delivering a fatal shock.

## Construction

Start by putting your case down on your work surface, with the case door
facing up, and open the case.

### Motherboard

!![](Mother_board_partial_name@ja.jpg "Kaunas_Priest_Seminary,_Kaunas,_Lithuania_-_Diliff.jpg"){width="800"
height="800"} Find the motherboard standoffs
(spacers) that should have come with the case. They are screws, usually
brass, with large hexagonal heads that are tapped so you can fasten
screws into the top. These hold the motherboard up off the case
preventing a short-circuit. Set these aside.

!A variety of io shields. Make sure to install this before installing
the
motherboard!.jpg "A variety of io shields. Make sure to install this before installing the motherboard!")

Remove the I/O Shield from the back of the case where the ports on the
back of the motherboard will fit, and put in the I/O Shield that came
with your motherboard. There may be small metal tabs on the inside of
this face plate, if so you may have to adjust them to accommodate the
ports on the back of the motherboard.

Some case styles make it difficult to install the motherboard or the CPU
with the power supply installed. If the power supply is in your way,
take it out and set it aside (we\'ll put it back in later).

Now locate the screw holes on your motherboard and find the
corresponding holes on the motherboard plate (or tray) in the case. Put
a standoff in each of these holes on the tray and position the
motherboard so that you can see the holes in the top of the standoffs
through the screw holes in the motherboard.

Now is the time to make sure the ports on the motherboard are mating
with the backplate you just installed, and make any necessary
adjustments. The small metal tabs are intended to make contact with the
metal parts of the connections on the back of the motherboard and ground
them, but you may have to bend these tabs a bit to get the ports all
properly mounted, this is where those needle-nose pliers may come in
handy.

Now fasten a screw through each of the motherboard screw holes into the
standoffs underneath. These screws should be snug but not tight, there
is no reason to torque down on them, hand tight is fine, otherwise you
can damage the motherboard.

Once the motherboard is installed, it is time to plug the other
components.

### CPU

!Some motherboard CPU sockets come with a plastic protector. This
should be removed before the CPU is inserted, and saved for
later.
!An example of a Intel CPU socket,
LGA2066.
!An AM4 socket for AMD
processors_02.jpg "An AM4 socket for AMD processors")

Installing the CPU, and the CPU's heat-sink
and fan, are by far the most difficult steps you'll have to complete
during your build. Here, more than anywhere else, it will pay to read
the instructions carefully, look at the parts, study the diagrams that
came with your CPU and/or third party cooling solution, and make sure
you thoroughly understand what you are going to do *before you try to do
it*. During the process, if anything does not seem to fit or make sense,
put the parts down and look things over carefully before you proceed.
Some operations, especially installing the heat-sink/fan combination,
can require pretty firm pressure, so don't be afraid to push a little
harder if you're sure everything is set up correctly.

The details of the installation process differ in slight but important
ways for each manufacturer's processors, and even within a
manufacturer\'s product line. Therefore, for these details, you should
rely on the instructions that are provided with the CPU.

The two things that go wrong the most often and most expensively
(minimum of a killed CPU, sometimes more) in building one\'s own
computer are both related to the CPU and its cooler:

1.  Switching the computer on \"just to see if it works\" before adding
    any CPU cooling unit. Without cooling, CPUs heat up at extreme rates
    (a CPU heats up anywhere between ten times and a thousand times as
    fast as a cooking area on your stove!). By the time you see the
    first display on the screen, your CPU will already be severely
    overheating and might be damaged beyond repair.
2.  Mounting the CPU cooler improperly. Read the instructions that came
    with your CPU and cooler very carefully and ensure you are using all
    components in the correct order and correct place.

!The base of a CPU heatsink. Remove any plastic film on the bottom of
the heatsink before
installation.
If you buy a third party cooling solution for your CPU make sure you get
one that is compatible with the CPU you have. \"Compatibility\" here
just means, \"Can you fit it in next to your RAM or whatever else is
sticking up in the neighborhood.\" Most brands come with multiple
mounting brackets that will suit many different chipsets, but it is best
to check for compatibility just in case.

After the CPU is installed in the socket and secured in place, it\'s
time to add thermal paste and then install the cooler. The plain metal
back of the CPU, which is what you\'re now seeing, is exactly matched by
the bottom plate of the cooler. You add thermal paste *only* on the CPU,
*never* on the cooler\'s surface. Very little is needed. The two flat
metallic surfaces will spread the paste between them, and it will spread
a bit more when it becomes hot. (The cooler surface may have a
protective piece of film over it; don\'t forget to remove it. But see
below for the possibility of \"thermal pad\" being supplied, instead of
paste. This is rare nowadays, but *read the instructions.*) A pea-sized
dot is the amount usually advised, though some people make a thin \"X\"
on the CPU surface, and some draw a line. (There are numerous videos on
YouTube advocating one or another, some with photos using glass plates.)
Don\'t overdo \-- you don\'t want paste squeezing out the edges. Some
people suggest spreading paste over the whole surface, then cleaning it
off with a razor blade, then adding the pea. The idea is to close
invisible imperfections in the metal. This is probably overkill, and
involves extra handling of the CPU, never a good idea. Try not to touch
the mating surfaces of the CPU and cooler \-- the oils from your skin
will impede heat transfer. You should receive a tube or applicator of
thermal paste in the CPU or cooler package, some CPU coolers come
pre-applied with thermal paste (such as AMD\'s wraith cooler), you can
optionally add your own to the CPU as extra or continue with the
pre-applied compound. If your CPU didn\'t come with thermal paste and
the cooler didn\'t have any pre-applied, thermal paste is readily
available from most computer retailers.

*See Arctic Silver
Instructions for more
info on how to apply and remove thermal paste/grease. (It was written to
be specifically for Arctic Silver paste, but the same techniques can be
applied to other brands of thermal paste.)*

If using a thermal pad supplied with your cooler, make sure you remove
any protective tape from the die just before installing and do not get
it dirty - and do not combine thermal pads with thermal paste, it is
either one or the other. Then, check that you install the cooler in the
right orientation and that you set it flat on the CPU die without
exerting undue pressure on any edges or corners - the latter can make
small pieces of the die break off, killing the CPU.

One option you may consider, before installing the heat-sink, is to
\"lap\" the heat-sink, which means to smooth out the bottom surface. To
do this, you will need a very flat surface; a piece of thick window
glass will work. Fasten your sandpaper on the flat surface, invert the
heat-sink on the sandpaper and sand in small circles, applying minimum
pressure. Check frequently and when you see a uniform pattern of
scratches, switch to finer grained sandpaper (the numbers go up as the
sandpaper is finer, so something such as 220 is coarse while 2000 will
be very fine.) Remember that you are not trying to remove any material,
just polish out surface irregularities. If you get it right, you should
have a surface which feels completely smooth to the touch (but don't
touch it, the oil in your fingers can cause corrosion of the fresh
surface) with a mirror finish. Some companies producing heat-sinks lap
the surface themselves, so if the surface already looks like a perfect
mirror, leave it alone. A lapped heat-sink is more effective as it will
have better surface contact with the chip.

Tighten the cooler using only the specified holding devices - if you did
everything right, they will fit. If they do not fit, check your setup -
most likely something is wrong. After mounting the cooler, connect any
power cables for the fan that is attached to the cooler.

As an aside to the instructions above, it has been my personal
experience that fitting the CPU and heat sink is best done on a
supportive surface (a telephone directory on a table in my case) prior
to installation, to avoid excessive flexing of the motherboard.

A last note: if something goes wrong and the cooler has to be removed
(like maybe you realize you didn\'t take the protective film off the
cooler surface), the paste will have to be removed from the CPU for the
restart. *Don\'t panic!* All it takes is a coffee filter (not paper
towels or anything else that will leave fibers) and a little isopropyl
alcohol (from the drugstore). Thermal paste removes easily with a little
gentle rubbing. Work from the outside edge in.

If you\'ve got the CPU and its cooler installed, and the motherboard in
the case, you're over the hump, there are just a few more easy pieces to
go before that momentous first power-up.

### Memory slots

!RAM module in a
socket{width="325"}

Next, you will need to install your RAM (random access memory). Find the
RAM slots on your motherboard; they will look something like the picture
on your left. To install the RAM modules, first push on the levers
(white plastic in the picture) on either side of the DIMM socket, so
that they move to the sides. Do not force them, they should move fairly
easily.

Put the RAM module in the socket. Line up the notch in the center of the
module with the small bump in the center of the RAM socket, making sure
to insert it the right way. Push down on the module until both levers
move up into the notches on the sides of the module. There should be a
small \"snap\" when the module is fully seated. Although this does
require a fair bit of force, do not overdo it or you may break the RAM
module.

!Motherboards often use color coded slots to indicate which slot
corresponds to which RAM
channel

Take a good look at your seated RAM, if one side seems to be higher than
the other, odds are it is improperly seated - take it out and try again.
As you handle the RAM, try not to touch the copper stripes you can see
along the bottom edge, as doing so is the best way to damage the part.

Start adding RAM at the slot labeled \"Bank 0\" or \"DIMM 1\". If you do
not have a stick in \"Bank 0\" or \"DIMM 1\" the system will think there
is no RAM and will not boot.

On motherboards with 4 slots, you\'ll see alternating colours. For
example, slot 1 is blue, slot 2 is black, slot 3 is blue, slot 4 is
black.

If you were to put 16 gigabytes of RAM in your personal computer, it is
best to use dual channel 8 GBx2 sticks. Put the first 8 GB stick in
**slot 1**, and put the 2nd stick in **slot 3** (the two slots that are
blue) - leaving slot 2 empty. This will give you better performance,
than putting 16 GB in slot 1 alone.

### Power supply

Installing your power supply is pretty straightforward, if it came with
your case it was pre-installed and if you took it out earlier to get the
motherboard in, now is the time to put it back. Otherwise a few moments
of screwdriver work will get the job done. Generally there will be a
bracket on the top of the case where the power supply is mounted and a
few screws used to fix it in place. Some cases place the Power Supply
differently, see the documentation that came with yours.

Some power supplies come with modular cables, so you can plug in only
those you'll be using; now is a good time to figure out what you'll need
and plug them in. Other power supplies have all the cables hardwired in,
you'll want to separate out the ones you'll need and neatly coil the
remainder somewhere out of the way.

If your power supply has a switch to select 115 V or 220 V make sure it
is set properly, this is important. Many newer power supplies can
automatically select and don't have such a switch.

Once you get the power supply installed make sure you check the
motherboard documentation carefully for the location of the power
sockets. You may then connect the main power, a 20 or 24 pin plug, into
the motherboard. There may also be an additional four or eight pin power
lead that needs to be plugged in to the motherboard (the CPU power
connector) usually located near the processor socket.

### Graphics card

!Insert the card into a matching slot on the
motherboard.{width="300"}

If your motherboard or CPU has a built-in graphics adapter you want to
use (like Intel HD Graphics), skip this section.

If you have a PCI Express video card, install it into the PCI Express
socket. Your computer will have a few of them, but choose the one which
is most convenient for you and will allow you to fit it into the desktop
case easily. Check your motherboard manual for instructions.

When your card is properly installed the line formed by the top of the
card will be exactly perpendicular to the motherboard, if one side seems
to be higher than the other, chances are that it is not fully inserted,
press a little harder on the high side or pull it out and try again.

### Installing drives

!A Serial ATA connector
!A M.2 slot on a motherboard with mounting posts
highlighted
Next install the storage drive and optical drives.

How a drive is physically installed will depend on the case.

Most drives are SATA (Serial ATA) which use simple, small cables for a
data connection. The ends of the cables are L shaped, just look
carefully at the cable ends and the connector on the drive and match
them up. Only one drive can be connected to each SATA port on the
motherboard.

Next install the SATA power cable. Some SATA drives also have a molex
power connector - make sure you connect **only one** of these ports to
the power supply, connecting both can damage the drive.

Newer SSD\'s will often use the PCI Express standard; for those, follow
the same instructions as you would do for a PCI Express graphics card.

### Other connections

!Some cables are attached to pins on a board (e.g. motherboard or
extension
card)"){width="300"}

In order to turn the computer on, you will need to connect the power
button and while you are at it, you might as well do the reset buttons
and front panel lights as well.

There will be a set of pins, usually near the front edge of the
motherboard to which you will attach the cables sometimes already
connected to the front of the case, or if needed to be supplied with the
motherboard. Most of the time the plugs will be labeled as the pins they
will connect to in the motherboard, there they can be difficult to read
since the print is very small or you may not be in the right orientation
to do so. The documentation that came with your case and motherboard
should tell where these connectors
are.

In addition, you can connect any case-specific ports if they are
supported by the motherboard. Many cases have front mounted USB ports
and audio jacks.

### Prepare for power up

Some people will put power to a system several times during assembly and
for experienced builders this may serve some purpose. For first timers
though, it's best to assemble a minimal complete system before powering
up. Minimal because that way there are comparatively few potential
sources of trouble, complete so that you can test everything at once and
because the fewer times you have to put power to an open machine, the
better..

If you've been working along with us you should now have such a minimal
system put together. Briefly this includes a case with a motherboard in
it, a processor (and its cooling unit) and some RAM plugged into the
motherboard, hard and floppy drives installed, and some kind of video
available. If your motherboard has built-in video, you might want to use
that for this first try, even if you are going to install a video card
later.

For this test, you'll want to have the computer open, so that you can
see all of the fans, and you'll need to connect a monitor and a keyboard
and a mouse (OK, you don't really need the mouse . . .)

!Comparison of VGA, DVI and
HDMI{width="180"}

Monitors will either have a VGA, DVI, HDMI (see picture, as they are a
lot less apparent than PS/2 / USB by comparison) or for newer ones, a
Thunderbolt 3/USB 3.1 plug. Most monitors use HDMI connectors, and so
most graphics cards have HDMI output. If you have one type of plug and
the graphics card has another, you can easily buy an adapter. Some cards
even come with one.

There are two standard connectors for mice and keyboards; PS/2
connectors and the more modern USB connectors. Plug the mouse and
keyboard in the appropriate slot.

Note: If you intend to install an operating system from a boot CD or
floppy, or modify BIOS settings you will need to use either a PS/2
keyboard, a USB to PS/2 converter, or a motherboard that supports USB
devices. Otherwise your keyboard will not work until the operating
system has loaded USB drivers.

Once you have this all set up, it's time to double check, then triple
check that you have made all the necessary connections and that you
haven't left any foreign objects (where's that screwdriver?) in the
case.

## Power up

Take a moment to check one more time that everything is as it should be
. On the first power up, you will be observing the computer itself to
confirm the cooling system is working correctly, making sure that your
fans work. The first thing to look for is that the CPU cooler fan spins
up, if it does not, cut the power immediately. This fan should start up
right away. If it does not, then something is wrong and you should
shutdown the computer immediately. When you are ready remove your wrist
strap, turn on the monitor, then press the power button, and observe the
inside of the open machine. (*Do not touch any part of the inside of the
machine while it is powered up*)

If the CPU fan spins up, check that all the other fans that should be
spinning -- case fans and fans on the power supply and video card (if
installed) are also spinning. Some of these fans may not spin up until a
temperature threshold is passed, check your documentation if anything is
not spinning.

If the fans spin, you can turn your attention to the monitor, what you
are hoping to see is the motherboard's splash-screen, usually featuring
the manufacturer's logo. If you see this, take a moment to bask in the
glow, you've built a computer!

If this happy event does not occur, if smoke appears, or if the computer
does not do anything, unplug the power cord immediately and check the
steps above to make sure you have not missed anything. Give special
attention to the cables and power connections. If the computer does
appear to come on, but, you hear beeps, listen carefully to the beeps,
turn the computer off, and refer to your motherboard\'s manual for the
meaning of the beeps. Some boards have an optional diagnostic device,
usually a collection of LEDs, which when properly plugged in will inform
you of the nature of the problem. Instructions for installing this as
well as the meaning of its display should be in the manual for the
motherboard. If the computer turns on but the only thing that comes on
is your power supply, turn it off. This probably means something is
shorted, and leaving it on could damage the parts.

If all is well it is time to turn the computer off, and close it up.
Then you may want to turn it on again and set certain options in the
computer\'s BIOS/UEFI (usually by pressing \'F1\' or \'Del\' a few
seconds after boot.) These options will be explained in the motherboard
manual. In general, the default options are OK, but you may wish to set
the computer\'s hardware clock to the correct time and date. The
BIOS/UEFI is also where you determine the default boot order of the
system, typically F\\floppy, then CD-ROM, then Hard Disc.

If you want a further quick test before you install an operating system,
you may find a bootable Disk or USB flashdrive such as
Knoppix extremely useful.

## Additional hardware and peripherals

Now that you have a working system it's time to think about installing
an operating system, which is covered in the next section. It's best to
leave the installation of additional components (like expansion cards,
and second video cards) and peripherals (printers, joysticks, etc.)
until after the OS install in order to allow the plug n' play features
of the OS to do their trick.

## References

```{=html}
<references />
```