Dynamique de champs de vagues irréguliers en zone côtière
Journal: SPIRE - Sciences Po Institutional REpository
Year: 2015

Surface and internal gravity waves have an important impact on the hydrological regime ofthe coastal zone. Intensive surface waves are particularly interesting to study because they canbe a serious threat to ships, oil platforms, port facilities and tourist areas on the coast; suchwaves hampered the implementation of human activities on the shelf. Nonlinear internal wavesaffect the underwater biosphere and cause sediment transport, they create washouts soil at thebase of platforms and pipelines,