title: Cardinal number

text: It can be proved that the cardinality of the real numbers is greater than that of the natural numbers just described. This can be visualized using Cantor's diagonal argument;


title: Cardinal number

text: classic questions of cardinality (for instance the continuum hypothesis) are concerned with discovering whether there is some cardinal between some pair of other infinite cardinals. In more recent times, mathematicians have been describing the properties of larger and larger cardinals.


title: Cardinal number

text: Since cardinality is such a common concept in mathematics, a variety of names are in use. Sameness of cardinality is sometimes referred to as "equipotence", "equipollence", or "equinumerosity". It is thus said that two sets with the same cardinality are, respectively, "equipotent", "equipollent", or "equinumerous".


title: Cardinal number

text: Formally, assuming the axiom of choice, the cardinality of a set "X" is the least ordinal number α such that there is a bijection between "X" and α. This definition is known as the von Neumann cardinal assignment. If the axiom of choice is not assumed, then a different approach is needed. The oldest definition of the cardinality of a set "X" (implicit in Cantor and explicit in Frege and Principia Mathematica) is as the class ["X"] of all sets that are equinumerous with "X". This does not work in ZFC or other related systems of axiomatic set theory because if "X" is non-empty, this collection is too large to be a set. In fact, for "X" ≠ ∅ there is an injection from the universe into ["X"] by mapping a set "m" to {"m"} × "X", and so by the axiom of limitation of size, ["X"] is a proper class. The definition does work however in type theory and in New Foundations and related systems. However, if we restrict from this class to those equinumerous with "X" that have the least rank, then it will work (this is a trick due to Dana Scott: it works because the collection of objects with any given rank is a set).


title: Cardinal number

text: Von Neumann cardinal assignment implies that the cardinal number of a finite set is the common ordinal number of all possible well-orderings of that set, and cardinal and ordinal arithmetic (addition, multiplication, power, proper subtraction) then give the same answers for finite numbers. However, they differ for infinite numbers. For example, formula_9 in ordinal arithmetic while formula_10 in cardinal arithmetic, although the von Neumann assignment puts formula_11. On the other hand, Scott's trick implies that the cardinal number 0 is formula_12, which is also the ordinal number 1, and this may be confusing. A possible compromise (to take advantage of the alignment in finite arithmetic while avoiding reliance on the axiom of choice and confusion in infinite arithmetic) is to apply von Neumann assignment to the cardinal numbers of finite sets (those which can be well ordered and are not equipotent to proper subsets) and to use Scott's trick for the cardinal numbers of other sets.


title: Cardinal number

text: Formally, the order among cardinal numbers is defined as follows: |"X"| ≤ |"Y"| means that there exists an injective function from "X" to "Y". The Cantor–Bernstein–Schroeder theorem states that if |"X"| ≤ |"Y"| and |"Y"| ≤ |"X"| then |"X"| = |"Y"|. The axiom of choice is equivalent to the statement that given two sets "X" and "Y", either |"X"| ≤ |"Y"| or |"Y"| ≤ |"X"|.


title: Cardinal number

text: A set "X" is Dedekind-infinite if there exists a proper subset "Y" of "X" with |"X"| = |"Y"|, and Dedekind-finite if such a subset doesn't exist. The finite cardinals are just the natural numbers, in the sense that a set "X" is finite if and only if |"X"| = |"n"| = "n" for some natural number "n". Any other set is infinite.


title: Cardinal number

text: Assuming the axiom of choice, it can be proved that the Dedekind notions correspond to the standard ones. It can also be proved that the cardinal formula_3 (aleph null or aleph-0, where aleph is the first letter in the Hebrew alphabet, represented formula_1) of the set of natural numbers is the smallest infinite cardinal (i.e., any infinite set has a subset of cardinality formula_3). The next larger cardinal is denoted by formula_8, and so on. For every ordinal α, there is a cardinal number formula_17 and this list exhausts all infinite cardinal numbers.


title: Cardinal number

text: We can define arithmetic operations on cardinal numbers that generalize the ordinary operations for natural numbers. It can be shown that for finite cardinals, these operations coincide with the usual operations for natural numbers. Furthermore, these operations share many properties with ordinary arithmetic.


title: Cardinal number

text: If the axiom of choice holds, then every cardinal κ has a successor, denoted κ, where κ > κ and there are no cardinals between κ and its successor. (Without the axiom of choice, using Hartogs' theorem, it can be shown that for any cardinal number κ, there is a minimal cardinal κ such that formula_18) For finite cardinals, the successor is simply κ + 1. For infinite cardinals, the successor cardinal differs from the successor ordinal.


title: Cardinal number

text: If "X" and "Y" are disjoint, addition is given by the union of "X" and "Y". If the two sets are not already disjoint, then they can be replaced by disjoint sets of the same cardinality (e.g., replace "X" by "X"×{0} and "Y" by "Y"×{1}).


title: Cardinal number

text: Assuming the axiom of choice, addition of infinite cardinal numbers is easy. If either "κ" or "μ" is infinite, then


title: Cardinal number

text: Assuming the axiom of choice and, given an infinite cardinal "σ" and a cardinal "μ", there exists a cardinal "κ" such that "μ" + "κ" = "σ" if and only if "μ" ≤ "σ". It will be unique (and equal to "σ") if and only if "μ" < "σ".


title: Cardinal number

text: Assuming the axiom of choice, multiplication of infinite cardinal numbers is also easy. If either "κ" or "μ" is infinite and both are non-zero, then


title: Cardinal number

text: Assuming the axiom of choice and, given an infinite cardinal "π" and a non-zero cardinal "μ", there exists a cardinal "κ" such that "μ" · "κ" = "π" if and only if "μ" ≤ "π". It will be unique (and equal to "π") if and only if "μ" < "π".


title: Cardinal number

text: 2 is the cardinality of the power set of the set "X" and Cantor's diagonal argument shows that 2 > |"X"| for any set "X". This proves that no largest cardinal exists (because for any cardinal "κ", we can always find a larger cardinal 2). In fact, the class of cardinals is a proper class. (This proof fails in some set theories, notably New Foundations.)


title: Cardinal number

text: Using König's theorem, one can prove "κ" < "κ" and "κ" < cf(2) for any infinite cardinal "κ", where cf("κ") is the cofinality of "κ".


title: Cardinal number

text: Assuming the axiom of choice and, given an infinite cardinal "κ" and a finite cardinal "μ" greater than 0, the cardinal "ν" satisfying formula_25 will be formula_26.


title: Cardinal number

text: Assuming the axiom of choice and, given an infinite cardinal "κ" and a finite cardinal "μ" greater than 1, there may or may not be a cardinal "λ" satisfying formula_27. However, if such a cardinal exists, it is infinite and less than "κ", and any finite cardinality "ν" greater than 1 will also satisfy formula_28.


title: Cardinal number

text: The logarithm of an infinite cardinal number "κ" is defined as the least cardinal number "μ" such that "κ" ≤ 2. Logarithms of infinite cardinals are useful in some fields of mathematics, for example in the study of cardinal invariants of topological spaces, though they lack some of the properties that logarithms of positive real numbers possess.


title: Cardinal number

text: The continuum hypothesis (CH) states that there are no cardinals strictly between formula_3 and formula_30 The latter cardinal number is also often denoted by formula_4; it is the cardinality of the continuum (the set of real numbers). In this case formula_32


title: Cardinal number

text: Similarly, the generalized continuum hypothesis (GCH) states that for every infinite cardinal formula_26, there are no cardinals strictly between formula_26 and formula_35. Both the continuum hypothesis and the generalized continuum hypothesis have been proved independent of the usual axioms of set theory, the Zermelo–Fraenkel axioms together with the axiom of choice (ZFC).


title: Cardinal number

text: Indeed, Easton's theorem shows that, for regular cardinals formula_26, the only restrictions ZFC places on the cardinality of formula_35 are that formula_38, and that the exponential function is non-decreasing.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Richard McCord Long (December 17, 1927 – December 21, 1974) was an American actor best known for his leading roles in three ABC television series, "The Big Valley", "Nanny and the Professor", and "Bourbon Street Beat". He was also a series regular on ABC's "77 Sunset Strip" during the 1961–1962 season.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: In 1946, Long was cast in his first film, "Tomorrow Is Forever", as Drew, the son of the characters played by Claudette Colbert and Orson Welles. The role had been unfilled for months, and producers selected Long, who most closely matched the credentials required. It was made by International Pictures, which put him under contract.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long impressed Welles, who cast the actor in "The Stranger" (1946), from International, as the younger brother of Loretta Young's character.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: International was going to lend Long to 20th Century Fox to make "Margie" (1946), but then they changed their minds and put him in "The Dark Mirror" (1946) starring Olivia de Havilland and Thomas Mitchell and directed by Robert Siodmak.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: International Pictures merged with Universal Pictures, which took over Long's contract. His fourth film was "The Egg and I" (1947), playing Tom Kettle, the eldest son of Ma and Pa Kettle, the characters played by Marjorie Main and Percy Kilbride. The movie was a huge hit – so much so that Universal decided to spin off the Kettles into their own series.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long signed a contract with Universal, for which he appeared in "Tap Roots" (1948) and "Criss Cross" (1949), playing Burt Lancaster's brother in the latter for Siodmak. He supported William Bendix in "The Life of Riley" (1949) based on the NBC radio show.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long reprised his role as Tom Kettle in "Ma and Pa Kettle" (1949), which was a solid success at the box office. So, too, was "Ma and Pa Kettle Go to Town" (1950). He was Frank James in the Western "Kansas Raiders" (1950).


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: In December 1950, Long was drafted into the U.S. Army during the Korean War. Before he left, he made "Jet Men of the Air" (1951), and then served for two years at Fort Ord, California.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: "Ma and Pa Kettle Back on the Farm" (1952) was Long's fourth and final Kettle movie. He was the juvenile lead in "Back at the Front" (1952) and had supporting parts in "All I Desire" (1953), "All American" (1953) (as the villain to Tony Curtis's hero), "Saskatchewan" (1954), and "Playgirl" (1954).


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long began guest-starring on TV shows such as "Lux Video Theater" ("I'll Never Love Again") and was finally given a lead role by Universal in "Cult of the Cobra" (1955) – though still billed under Faith Domergue.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long focused on television over the next few years, guest-starring on episodes of shows such as "Climax!", "Screen Directors Playhouse", "TV Reader's Digest", "The United States Steel Hour", "Hey, Jeannie!", "Schlitz Playhouse", "Suspicion", "Alcoa Theatre", "Wagon Train", "Have Gun – Will Travel", "The Millionaire", "Matinee Theatre", "The Twilight Zone" episodes ("Number 12 Looks Just Like You" and "Person or Persons Unknown"), and "The Further Adventures of Ellery Queen".


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: At Columbia, he had a supporting role in the Western "Fury at Gunsight Pass" (1956) and in a Blake Edwards comedy, "He Laughed Last" (1956).


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long went to Japan to star in "Tokyo After Dark" (1959) and had a key role in William Castle's "House on Haunted Hill" (1959).


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long signed a contract with Warner Bros. and guest-starred in many of their TV series, including "Lawman".


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: He played the recurring role of gambler/con artist Gentleman Jack Darby in four episodes of the ABC/WB Western series, "Maverick" beginning in 1958, including the memorable "Shady Deal at Sunny Acres" installment. His character appeared mostly with Jack Kelly, appeared once in an episode that included James Garner, "Shady Deal at Sunny Acres", but never with Roger Moore. Gentleman Jack Darby was created by "Maverick" producer Roy Huggins as a replacement for "Dandy Jim Buckley", played by Efrem Zimbalist, Jr., after Zimbalist had moved on to his own series, "77 Sunset Strip".


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Warner Bros. starred Long in a show, "Bourbon Street Beat" (1959–60) as Rex Randolph, Private Eye, which only ran for 39 episodes. with Andrew Duggan, Van Williams, and Arlene Howell.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long reprised his character on episodes of "Hawaiian Eye" and joined the cast of "77 Sunset Strip" from 1960 to 1962.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long continued to guest star on shows such as "Thriller", "Tales of Wells Fargo", "Alfred Hitchcock Presents", and "The Twilight Zone" ("Person or Persons Unknown").


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: He returned to films with a role in the MGM romantic musical "Follow the Boys", along with co-stars Connie Francis, Paula Prentiss, and Roger Perry. He did "The Tenderfoot" (1964) for "Walt Disney's Wonderful World of Color".


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: In 1963, Long guest-starred in the episode "Hear No Evil" of ABC's "Going My Way", a drama series starring Gene Kelly about a Catholic priest in New York City loosely based on the 1944 Bing Crosby movie. That same year, he was cast as Eddie Breech in the episode "Blood Bargain" of CBS's "The Alfred Hitchcock Hour".


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long went to Finland to make a film, "Make Like a Thief" (1965), which he also helped direct. "I've had the longest awkward period in the history of Hollywood", he said around this time. "I sign more autographs than anyone in the industry. They either think I'm Robert Goulet, Gig Young, Robert Sterling, or myself. We don't look a thing alike if we're together, but there is a flash similarity."


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long added that he hoped to play more character parts. "I'm rotting from the inside out and it's just gotten to my face", he said. "A man doesn't get interesting on screen until his 40s."


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: In 1965, at the age of 38, Long began his role as attorney Jarrod Barkley, the oldest son of rancher Victoria Barkley (Barbara Stanwyck), in 112 episodes of "The Big Valley", the last of the major Four Star Television series, a Western that ran on ABC from 1965 to 1969. The series was set in the 1870s. Long also directed 2 episodes of "The Big Valley". (In 1953, Long had costarred with Stanwyck in the film "All I Desire".)


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long and Mills later provided their voices for two animated-film versions of the show: "Nanny and the Professor" (1972) and "Nanny and the Professor and the Phantom of the Circus" (1973).


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long served in the U.S. Army for two years during the Korean War, where he was posted to Fort Ord, California, alongside actors Martin Milner, David Janssen, and Clint Eastwood. He was also stationed in Tokyo, Japan.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: Long was twice married: his first wife, singer and actress Suzan Ball, whom he married April 11, 1954, died of cancer 14 months later, at age 21. They had met in 1953, after her cancer diagnosis; her right leg was amputated in early 1954 and they wed in April.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: In 1957, he married actress/model Mara Corday in Las Vegas. The couple had three children together during their troubled marriage: Carey (1957–2008), Valerie (b. 1958), and Gregory (b. 1960). In 1961, Long was arrested by police after Corday accused him of attacking her while drunk. Richard's brother-in-law, actor Marshall Thompson, paid Long's bail and Corday declined to pursue the charges. After initially indicating she would file for divorce, Corday later reconciled with Long.


title: Richard Long (actor)

text: As a youth, Long contracted pneumonia, which apparently weakened his heart. He later experienced cardiac problems as an adult and suffered his first heart attack in 1961. Finally, after a month-long stay in Tarzana Medical Center in Los Angeles to treat additional attacks, he died on December 21, 1974, four days after his 47th birthday.


title: Moonbyul

text: Moon Byul-yi (, born December 22, 1992), better known by the mononym Moonbyul, is a South Korean rapper, singer, songwriter, dancer, and radio host signed under RBW. She is the main rapper of the South Korean girl group Mamamoo and its sub-unit Mamamoo+. In May 2018, Moonbyul made her debut as a solo artist, releasing the digital single "Selfish".


title: Moonbyul

text: Moon Byul-yi was born in Bucheon, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea, and is the oldest of three sisters. She decided to become a singer after watching TVXQ "Rising Sun" perform in 2005. She was accepted into Paekche Institute of the Arts for media music and vocals in 2011.


title: Moonbyul

text: Moonbyul debuted as a member of Mamamoo in June 2014. In May 2018, she debuted as a solo artist with the single "Selfish", featuring Seulgi of Red Velvet.


title: Moonbyul

text: She released her debut EP, "Dark Side of the Moon", on February 14, 2020. On May 29, 2020, she released "門OON", a repackage album of "Dark Side of the Moon".


title: Moonbyul

text: She released her second EP, "6equence", on January 19, 2022. Before the album's release, she released the pre-release single "G999", featuring Mirani, on December 13, 2021, and released another pre-release single "Shutdown", featuring Seori, on December 30, 2021.


title: Moonbyul

text: Moonbyul held her first overseas solo concerts "Director's Cut: Japan Special Live" in Osaka, Japan on 20 August, 2022.


title: Moonbyul

text: Moonbyul won first place in the JTBC vocal survival program The Second World from August to November 2022, competing against fellow female idol rappers in singing. Entering the competition as a heavy favourite, she won her Round 1, Round 2 and Round 4 matches with full scores. On November 8, 2022, she won the finale of the show, scoring 4,157 points out of a total 10,000.


title: Moonbyul

text: Moonbyul is slated to release special single album "The Present" on her 30th birthday on 22 December, 2022.


title: Moonbyul

text: All song credits are adapted from the Korea Music Copyright Association's database unless stated otherwise.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: Michael Lamar Porter Jr. (born June 29, 1998) is an American professional basketball player for the Denver Nuggets of the National Basketball Association (NBA). He played college basketball for the Missouri Tigers. Porter was ranked as one of the top prospects in the class of 2017. He was selected 14th overall by the Nuggets in the 2018 NBA draft.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: Porter attended Father Tolton Regional Catholic High School in Columbia, Missouri, before transferring to Nathan Hale High School in Seattle, Washington, for his senior year. His father, Michael Porter Sr., was hired by the University of Washington to be an assistant coach; former NBA player Brandon Roy was the coach of Nathan Hale's basketball team.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: In Porter's junior season at Father Tolton, he led the team to the 2A State Championship. In the 2016 summer, Porter joined Mokan Elite on the Nike Elite Youth Basketball League (EYBL) averaging 26.2 points and 11.5 rebounds per game leading them to the Nike EYBL Peach Jam championship and was named Co-MVP alongside teammate and future NBA player Trae Young.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: In his senior season, Porter averaged 36.2 points and 13.6 rebounds as he helped his high school team earn a perfect 29–0 record and win the Washington Class 3A State Championship. He recorded 52 points and 23 rebounds in a blowout victory over Seattle Prep on senior night. Porter was rated as a five-star recruit and ranked as one of the top overall recruits in his class by Rivals.com and ESPN.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: On March 29, 2017, Porter was named MVP at the McDonald's All-American Game leading the West in a 109–107 win over the East team. Porter also participated in the 2017 Nike Hoop Summit, leading Team USA to a 98–87 victory over the World Select Team with 19 points in 23 minutes of play.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: In July 2016, Porter originally committed to Washington. After Lorenzo Romar was fired as Washington's head coach, Porter Sr. was hired as an assistant coach for the University of Missouri. Porter Jr. later decommitted from Washington.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: On March 24, 2017, Porter committed to play for Missouri, joining his father and his younger brother, Jontay Porter (who reclassified from the class of 2018).


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: Porter was injured in the first half of the season opener against Iowa State. Porter was expected to miss the remainder of the 2017–18 season because of a lower back injury which required surgery. On November 22, 2017, Porter had a successful microdiscectomy of his L3-L4 spinal discs. On February 22, 2018, Porter Jr. was cleared to practice with Missouri again, with the potential to return to play before the end of the season. NBA executives were encouraging him to play if he was feeling healthy enough to do so.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: Porter would officially return to action on March 8, 2018 in the quarterfinals of the SEC tournament. Porter would also play in the first round of the 2018 NCAA Division I men's basketball tournament, where the team lost to Florida State. In both games, however, Porter came off of the bench to play instead of starting as he had on opening night, mainly as a precaution. On March 27, Porter announced his intention to forgo his final three seasons of collegiate eligibility and declared for the 2018 NBA draft.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: On June 21, 2018, Porter was selected with the 14th overall pick by the Denver Nuggets. He fell from a possible first overall pick to the 14th pick with the Nuggets due to reports regarding his health. The Nuggets also discussed the possibility of having him sit out for his entire first season in the NBA in relation to his back problems. On July 3, 2018, Porter signed a multi-year contract with the Nuggets. On July 19, 2018, the Nuggets announced that Porter had undergone a second back surgery.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: On October 31, 2019, Porter made his debut in NBA, coming off the bench with fifteen points, four rebounds and an assist in a 107–122 loss to the New Orleans Pelicans. On December 29, Porter made his first career start in the NBA, finishing with 19 points, along with six rebounds and an assist in 26 minutes in a 120–115 win over the Sacramento Kings. He set a new career high with 25 points in 23 minutes just four days later in a win against the Indiana Pacers. On August 4, 2020, returning from the suspension of the season due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Porter Jr. led the Nuggets to their first victory in the Orlando bubble, scoring a then career-high 37 points in route to a 121–113 overtime win over Oklahoma City Thunder.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: On September 27, 2021, Porter and the Denver Nuggets agreed to a 5-year, $172 million rookie extension that will become $207 million if Porter is selected to an All-NBA Team. On November 29, 2021, having appeared in only 9 games, Porter's agent Mark Bartelstein announced Porter would miss the remainder of the 2021–22 NBA season as he would be undergoing a third back surgery.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: In addition to younger brother Jontay, he has two older sisters named Bri and Cierra, along with 4 younger siblings.


title: Michael Porter Jr.

text: In July 2020, amid the COVID-19 pandemic, Porter stated on Snapchat that he believed the disease was "being used obviously for a bigger agenda... for population control in just terms of being able to control the masses of people. I mean, because of the virus the whole world is being controlled." He added, "you're required to wear masks... and who knows what will happen when this vaccine comes out? You might have to have the vaccine in order to travel. Like, that would be crazy." These remarks led to Porter being reprimanded by Snapchat, with the post being deleted for violating the app's content guidelines. NBA commissioner Adam Silver also commented on the subject, saying "It's unfortunate that he said that. I would only say in our league, we have 450 players, guys are young. They're occasionally going to say silly things. I think most people quickly dismissed that comment." Nuggets coach Mike Malone let it be known that they would not "muzzle" their players and they would "just try to educate guys so that they understand the impact of what they may be saying."


title: Suit

text: A suit, lounge suit, or business suit is a set of clothes comprising a suit jacket and trousers of identical textiles worn with a collared dress shirt, necktie, and dress shoes. A skirt suit is similar, but with a matching skirt instead of trousers. It is considered informal wear in Western dress codes. The lounge suit originated in 19th-century Britain as a more casual alternative for sportswear and British country clothing, with roots in early modern Western Europe. After replacing the black frock coat in the early 20th century as regular daywear, a sober one-colored suit became known as a lounge suit.


title: Suit

text: Suits are offered in different designs and constructions. Cut and cloth, whether two- or three-piece, single- or double-breasted, vary, in addition to various accessories. A two-piece suit has a jacket and trousers; a three-piece suit adds a waistcoat. Hats were almost always worn outdoors (and sometimes indoors) with all men's clothes until the counterculture of the 1960s in Western culture. Informal suits have been traditionally worn with a fedora, a trilby, or a flat cap. Other accessories include handkerchief, suspenders or belt, watch, and jewelry.


title: Suit

text: Other notable types of suits are for semi-formal occasions—the dinner suit (black tie) and the black lounge suit (stroller)—both which arose as less formal alternatives for the formal wear of the dress coat for white tie, and the morning coat with formal trousers for morning dress, respectively.


title: Suit

text: Originally, suits were always tailor-made from the client's selected cloth. These are now known as "bespoke" suits, custom-made to measurements, taste, and style preferences. Since the 1960s, most suits are mass-produced ready-to-wear garments. Currently, suits are offered in roughly four ways:


title: Suit

text: The word "suit" derives from the French "suite", meaning "following," from some Late Latin derivative form of the Latin verb "sequor" = "I follow," because the component garments (jacket and trousers and waistcoat) follow each other and have the same cloth and colour and are worn together.


title: Suit

text: As a suit (in this sense) covers all or most of the wearer's body, the term "suit" was extended to a single garment that covers all or most of the body, such as boilersuits, diving suits, and spacesuits (see "Suit (disambiguation)").


title: Suit

text: The suit's origins trace the simplified, sartorial standard established by the English king Charles II in the 17th century, following the example of his one-time host King Louis XIV's court at Versailles, who decreed that in the English Court men would wear a long coat, a waistcoat (then called a "petticoat"), a cravat (a precursor of the necktie), a wig, knee breeches (trousers), and a hat. The paintings of Jan Steen, Pieter Bruegel the Elder, and other painters of the Dutch Golden Era reveal that such an arrangement was already used in Holland, if not Western Europe as a whole.


title: Suit

text: The current styles, founded in the Great Male Renunciation of the late 18th century, sharply changed the elaborately embroidered and jewelled formal clothing into the simpler clothing of the British Regency period, which gradually evolved to the stark formality of the Victorian era. In the late 19th century, it was in the search for more comfort that the loosening of rules gave rise to the modern lounge suit.


title: Suit

text: Brooks Brothers is generally credited with first offering the "ready-to-wear" suit, a suit that was sold already manufactured and sized, ready to be tailored, while Haggar Clothing first introduced the concept of suit separates in the U.S., which are widely found in the marketplace today.


title: Suit

text: There are many possible variations in the choice of the style, the garments, and the details of a suit.


title: Suit

text: The silhouette of a suit is its outline. Tailored balance created from a canvas fitting allows a balanced silhouette so a jacket need not be buttoned and a garment is not too tight or too loose. A proper garment is shaped from the neck to the chest and shoulders to drape without wrinkles from tension. Shape is the essential part of tailoring that often takes hand work from the start. The two main cuts are "double-breasted" suits, a conservative design with two columns of buttons, spanned by a large overlap of the left and right sides; and "single-breasted" suits, in which the sides overlap very slightly, with a single column of buttons.


title: Suit

text: Good tailoring anywhere in the world is characterised by strongly tapered sides and minimal shoulder, whereas rack suits are often padded to reduce labour. More casual suits are characterised by less construction and tailoring, much like the sack suit, a loose American style.


title: Suit

text: The acid test of authentic tailoring standards is the wrinkle that comes from poor tailoring. Rumples can be pressed out. For interim fittings, "Rock Of Eye" (which means trained freehand based on an experienced artistic eye to match the item to the wearer, trusting the eye over unyielding scripted approach), drawing and cutting inaccuracies are overcome by the fitting.


title: Suit

text: Suits are made in a variety of fabrics, but most commonly from wool. The two main yarns produce worsteds (where the fibres are combed before spinning to produce a smooth, hard wearing cloth) and woollens (where they are not combed, thus remaining comparatively fluffy in texture). These can be woven in a number of ways, producing flannel, tweed, gabardine, and fresco among others. These fabrics all have different weights and feels, and some fabrics have an S (or Super S) number describing the fineness of the fibres measured by average fibre diameter, e.g., Super 120; the finer the fabric, the more delicate and thus less likely to be long-wearing it will be. Although wool has traditionally been associated with warm, bulky clothing meant for warding off cold weather, advances in making finer and finer fibre have made wool suits acceptable for warmer weather, as fabrics have accordingly become lighter and more supple. Wool fabric is denominated by the weight of a one-square yard piece; thus, the heavier wools, suitable for winter only, are 12–14 oz.; the medium, "three-season" (i.e., excluding summer) are 10–11 oz.; and summer wools are 7–8 oz. (In the days before central heating, heavier wools such as 16 oz. were used in suits; now they are used mainly in overcoats and topcoats.) Other materials are used sometimes, either alone or blended with wool, such as cashmere. Silk alone or blended with wool is sometimes used. Synthetic materials, e.g., polyester, while cheaper, are very rarely recommended by experts. At most, a blend of predominantly wool may be acceptable to obtain the main benefit of synthetics, namely resistance to wrinkling, particularly in garments used for travel; however, any synthetic, blended or otherwise, will always be warmer and clammier than wool alone. For hot weather, linen is also used, and in the Southern United States, cotton seersucker is worn.


title: Suit

text: The main four colours for suits worn in business are black, light grey, dark grey, and navy, either with or without patterns. In particular, grey flannel suiting has been worn very widely since the 1930s. In non-business settings or less-formal business contexts, brown is another important colour; olive also occurs. In summer, lighter shades such as tan or cream are popular.


title: Suit

text: For non-business use, tweed has been popular since Victorian times and still is commonly worn. A wide range of colour is available, including muted shades of green, brown, red, and grey. Tweeds are usually checked, or plain with a herringbone weave, and are most associated with the country. While full tweed suits are not worn by many now, the jackets are often worn as sports jackets with odd trousers (trousers of different cloth).


title: Suit

text: The most conventional suit has two or three buttons and is either medium-to-dark grey or navy. Other conservative colours are grey, black, and olive. White and light blues are acceptable at some events, especially in the warm season. Red and the brighter greens are usually considered "unconventional" and "garish". Tradition calls for a gentleman's suit to be of decidedly plain colour, with splashes of bright colour reserved for shirts, neckties or kerchiefs.


title: Suit

text: In the United States and the United Kingdom, around the start of the 20th century, lounge suits were never traditionally worn in plain black, this colour instead being reserved for formal wear (including dinner jackets or strollers) and for undertakers. However, the decline of formal wear since the 1950s and the rise of casual wear in 1960s allowed the black suit to return to fashion, as many designers began wanting to move away from the business suit toward more fashion suits.


title: Suit

text: Traditional business suits are generally in solid colours or with pinstripes; windowpane checks are also acceptable. Outside business, the range of acceptable patterns widens, with plaids such as the traditional glen plaid and herringbone, though apart from some very traditional environments such as London banking, these are worn for business now too. The colour of the patterned element (stripes, plaids, and checks) varies by gender and location. For example, bold checks, particularly with tweeds, have fallen out of use in the US, while they continue to be worn as traditional in Britain. Some unusual old patterns such as diamonds are now rare everywhere.


title: Suit

text: Inside the jacket of a suit, between the outer fabric and the inner lining, there is a layer of sturdy interfacing fabric to prevent the wool from stretching out of shape; this layer of cloth is called the canvas after the fabric from which it was traditionally made. Expensive jackets have a "floating canvas", while cheaply manufactured models have a "fused" (glued) canvas. A fused canvas is less soft and, if poorly done, damages the suppleness and durability of the jacket, so many tailors are quick to deride fused canvas as being less durable, particularly since they may tend to permanently pucker along the jacket's edges after some use or a few dry cleanings. However, some selling this type of jacket claim that the difference in quality is very small. A few London tailors state that all bespoke suits should use a floating canvas.


title: Suit

text: Most single-breasted suits have two or three buttons, and four or more buttons are unusual. Dinner jackets ("black tie") usually have only one button. It is rare to find a suit with more than four buttons, although zoot suits can have as many as six or more due to their longer length. There is also variation in the placement and style of buttons, since the button placement is critical to the overall impression of height conveyed by the jacket. The centre or top button will typically line up quite closely with the natural waistline. The bottom button is usually not meant to be buttoned and so the jacket is cut such that buttoning the bottom button would ruin the lines and drape of the jacket. It is customary to keep the jacket buttoned while standing and to unbutton the jacket while seated.


title: Suit

text: Double-breasted jackets have only half their outer buttons functional, as the second row is for display only, forcing them to come in pairs. Some rare jackets can have as few as two buttons, and during various periods, for instance the 1960s and 70s, as many as eight were seen. Six buttons are typical, with two to button; the last pair floats above the overlap. The three buttons down each side may in this case be in a straight line (the 'keystone' layout) or more commonly, the top pair is half as far apart again as each pair in the bottom square. A four-button double-breasted jacket usually buttons in a square. The layout of the buttons and the shape of the lapel are co-ordinated in order to direct the eyes of an observer. For example, if the buttons are too low, or the lapel roll too pronounced, the eyes are drawn down from the face, and the waist appears larger. There seems to be no clear rule as to on which side the overlap should lie. It usually crosses naturally with the left side to the fore but not invariably. Generally, a hidden button holds the underlap in place.


title: Suit

text: The jacket's lapels can be notched (also called "stepped"), peaked ("pointed"), shawl, or "trick" (Mandarin and other unconventional styles). Each lapel style carries different connotations and is worn with different cuts of suit. Notched lapels, the most common of the three, are usually only found on single-breasted jackets and are the most informal style. They are distinguished by a 75-to-90 degree "notch" at the point where the lapel meets the collar. Peaked lapels have sharp edges that point upward towards the shoulders. Double-breasted jackets usually have peaked lapels, although peaked lapels are sometimes found on single breasted jackets as well. Shawl lapels are a style derived from the Victorian informal evening wear, and as such are not normally seen on suit jackets except for tuxedos or dinner suits. For black tie events, only jackets with pointed and shawl lapels should be worn.


title: Suit

text: In the 1980s, double-breasted suits with notched lapels were popular with power suits and the New Wave style.


title: Suit

text: In the late 1920s and 1930s, a design considered very stylish was the single-breasted peaked-lapel jacket. This has gone in and out of vogue periodically, being popular once again during the 1970s, and is still a recognised alternative. The ability to properly cut peaked lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors.


title: Suit

text: The width of the lapel is a varying aspect of suits and has changed over the years. The 1930s and 1970s featured exceptionally wide lapels, whereas during the late 1950s and most of the 1960s suits with very narrow lapels—often only about wide—were in fashion. The 1980s saw mid-size lapels with a low gorge (the point on the jacket that forms the "notch" or "peak" between the collar and front lapel). Current (mid-2000s) trends are towards a narrower lapel and higher gorge. Necktie width usually follows the width of the jacket lapel.


title: Suit

text: Lapels also have a buttonhole, intended to hold a boutonnière, a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. Usually, double-breasted suits have one hole on each lapel (with a flower just on the left), while single-breasted suits have just one on the left.


title: Suit

text: Most jackets have a variety of inner pockets and two main outer pockets, which are generally either patch pockets, flap pockets, or jetted ("besom") pockets.


title: Suit

text: The patch pocket is, with its single extra piece of cloth sewn directly onto the front of the jacket, a sporting option, sometimes seen on summer linen suits or other informal styles. The flap pocket is standard for side pockets, and has an extra lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the pocket. A jetted pocket is most formal, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and bottom of the slit for the pocket. This style is most often on seen on formalwear, such as a dinner jacket.


title: Suit

text: A breast pocket is usually found at the left side, where a pocket square or handkerchief can be displayed.


title: Suit

text: In addition to the standard two outer pockets and breast pocket, some suits have a fourth, the ticket pocket, usually located just above the right pocket and roughly half as wide. While this was originally exclusively a feature of country suits, used for conveniently storing a train ticket, it is now seen on some town suits. Another country feature also worn sometimes in cities is a pair of hacking pockets, which are similar to normal ones, but slanted; this was originally designed to make the pockets easier to open on horseback while hacking.


title: Suit

text: Suit jackets in all styles typically have three or four buttons on each cuff, which are often purely decorative (the sleeve is usually sewn closed and cannot be unbuttoned to open). Five buttons are unusual and are a modern fashion innovation. The number of buttons is primarily a function of the formality of the suit; a very casual summer sports jacket might traditionally (1930s) have had only one button, while tweed suits typically have three and city suits four. In the 1970s, two buttons were seen on some city suits. Today, four buttons are common on most business suits and even casual suits.


title: Suit

text: Although the sleeve buttons usually cannot be undone, the stitching is such that it appears they could. Functional cuff buttons may be found on high-end or bespoke suits; this feature is called a "surgeon's cuff" and "working button holes" (U.S.). Some wearers leave these buttons undone to reveal that they can afford a bespoke suit, although it is proper to leave these buttons done up. Modern bespoke styles and high-end off-the-rack suits equipped with surgeon's cuffs have the last two buttons stitched off-centre, so that the sleeve hangs more cleanly should the buttons ever be undone. Certainty in fitting sleeve length must be achieved, as once working button holes are cut, the sleeve length essentially cannot be altered further.


title: Suit

text: A cuffed sleeve has an extra length of fabric folded back over the arm, or just some piping or stitching above the buttons to allude to the edge of a cuff. This was popular in the Edwardian era, as a feature of formalwear such as frock coats carried over to informalwear, but is now rare.


title: Suit

text: A vent is a slit in the bottom rear (the "tail") of the jacket. Originally, vents were a sporting option, designed to make riding easier, so are traditional on hacking jackets, formal coats such as a morning coat, and, for practicality, overcoats. Today there are three styles of venting: the single-vented style (with one vent at the centre), the ventless style, and the double-vented style (one vent on each side). Vents are convenient, particularly when using a pocket or sitting down, to improve the hang of the jacket, so are now used on most jackets. Ventless jackets are associated with Italian tailoring, while the double-vented style is typically British. Dinner jackets traditionally have no vents.


title: Suit

text: Waistcoats (called "vests" in American English) were almost always worn with suits prior to the 1940s. Due to rationing during World War II, their prevalence declined, but their popularity has gone in and out of fashion from the 1970s onwards. A pocket watch on a chain, one end of which is inserted through a middle buttonhole, is often worn with a waistcoat; otherwise, since World War I, when they came to prominence of military necessity, men have worn wristwatches, which may be worn with any suit except the full evening dress (white tie). Although many examples of waistcoats worn with a double-breasted jacket can be found from the 1920s to the 1940s, that would be unusual today (one point of a double-breasted jacket being, it may be supposed, to eliminate the waistcoat). Traditionally, the bottom button of a waistcoat is left undone; like the vents in the rear of a jacket, this helps the body bend when sitting. Some waistcoats can have lapels; others do not.


title: Suit

text: Suit trousers are always made of the same material as the jacket. Even from the 1910s to 1920s, before the invention of sports jackets specifically to be worn with odd trousers, wearing a suit jacket with odd trousers was seen as an alternative to a full suit. However, with the modern advent of sports jackets, suit jackets are always worn with matching trousers, and the trousers are worn with no jacket or the appropriate jacket.


title: Suit

text: Trouser width has varied considerably throughout the decades. In the 1920s, trousers were straight-legged and wide-legged, with a standard width at the cuff of . After 1935, trousers began to be tapered in at the bottom half of the leg. Trousers remained wide at the top of the leg throughout the 1940s. By the 1950s and 1960s, a more slim look had become popular. In the 1970s, suit makers offered a variety of styles of trousers, including flared, bell bottomed, wide-legged, and more traditional tapered trousers. In the 1980s, these styles disappeared in favor of tapered, slim-legged trousers.


title: Suit

text: One variation in the design of trousers is the use or not of pleats. The most classic style of trouser is to have two pleats, usually forward, since this gives more comfort sitting and better hang standing. This is still a common style, and for these reasons of utility has been worn throughout the 20th century. The style originally descended from the exaggeratedly widened Oxford bags worn in the 1930s in Oxford, which, though themselves short-lived, began a trend for fuller fronts. The style is still seen as the smartest, featuring on dress trousers with black and white tie. However, at various periods throughout the last century, flat-fronted trousers with no pleats have been worn, and the swing in fashions has been marked enough that the more fashion-oriented ready-to-wear brands have not produced both types continuously.


title: Suit

text: Turn-ups on the bottom of trousers, or cuffs, were initially popularised in the 1890s by Edward VII, and were popular with suits throughout the 1920s and 1930s. They have always been an informal option, being inappropriate on all formalwear.


title: Suit

text: Other variations in trouser style include the rise of the trouser. This was very high in the early half of the 20th century, particularly with formalwear, with rises above the natural waist, to allow the waistcoat covering the waistband to come down just below the narrowest point of the chest. Though serving less purpose, this high height was duplicated in the daywear of the period. Since then, fashions have changed, and have rarely been that high again, with styles returning more to low-rise trousers, even dropping down to have waistbands resting on the hips. Other changing aspects of the cut include the length, which determines the break, the bunching of fabric just above the shoe when the front seam is marginally longer than height to the shoe's top. Some parts of the world, such as Europe, traditionally opt for shorter trousers with little or no break, while Americans often choose to wear a slight break.


title: Suit

text: A final major distinction is made in whether the trousers take a belt or braces (suspenders). While a belt was originally never worn with a suit, the forced wearing of belts during wartime years (caused by restrictions on use of elastic caused by wartime shortages) contributed to their rise in popularity, with braces now much less popular than belts. When braces were common, the buttons for attaching them were placed on the outside of the waistband, because they would be covered by a waistcoat or cardigan, but now it is more frequent to button on the inside of the trouser. Trousers taking braces are rather different in cut at the waist, employing extra girth and also height at the back. The split in the waistband at the back is in the "fishtail" shape. Those who prefer braces assert that, because they hang from the shoulders, they always make the trousers fit and hang exactly as they should, while a belt may allow the trouser waist to slip down on the hips or below a protruding midsection, and requires constant repositioning; also, they allow, indeed work best with, a slightly looser waist which gives room for natural expansion when seated.


title: Suit

text: Suit trousers, also known as dress pants in the US, are a style of trousers intended as formal, semi-formal, or informal wear. They are often made of either wool or polyester (although many other synthetic and natural textiles are used) and may be designed to be worn with a matching suit jacket. Suit trousers often have a crease in the front of each pant leg, and may have one or more pleats. Suit trousers can be worn at many formal and semi-formal occasions combined with a shirt that has no tie and a more relaxed fashion, which can be considered smart casual dress.


title: Suit

text: As an alternative to trousers, breeches (or "knickers" in variations of English where this does not refer to underwear) may be worn with informal suits, such as tweed. These are shorter, descending to just below the knees, fastened closely at the top of the calf by a tab or button cuff. While once common, they are now typically only worn when engaged in traditional outdoor sports, such as shooting or golf. The length and design is closely related to the plus-fours (and plus-sixes etc.) worn for sport, but differ in having no bagginess. They are usually designed to be worn with long socks meeting just below the knee, but riding breeches, worn with long boots such as top boots, are long enough to meet the boot and display no sock.


title: Suit

text: Accessories for suits include neckties, shoes, wristwatches and pocket watches, pocket squares, cufflinks, tie clips, tie tacks, tie bars, bow ties, lapel pins, and hats.


title: Suit

text: The buttoning of the jacket is primarily determined by the "button stance", a measure of how high the buttons are in relation to the natural waist. In some (now unusual) styles where the buttons are placed high, the tailor would have intended the suit to be buttoned differently from the more common lower stance. Nevertheless, some general guidelines are given here.


title: Suit

text: Double-breasted suit coats are almost always kept buttoned. When there is more than one functional buttonhole (as in a traditional six-on-two arrangement), only one button need be fastened; the wearer may elect to fasten only the bottom button, in order to present a longer line (a style popularised by Prince George, Duke of Kent).


title: Suit

text: Single-breasted suit coats may be either fastened or unfastened. In two-button suits the bottom button is traditionally left unfastened except with certain unusual cuts of jacket, e.g. the paddock. Legend has it that King Edward VII started the trend of leaving the bottom button of a suit as well as waistcoat undone.


title: Suit

text: When fastening a three-button suit, the middle button is fastened, and the top one sometimes, but the bottom is traditionally not designed to be. Although in the past some three-button jackets were cut so that all three could be fastened without distorting the drape, this is no longer the case. A four-button suit is nontraditional and uncommon. The one-button suit has regained some popularity (it is also one of the classic styles of Savile Row tailoring). With a single-breasted suit, the buttons are usually unfastened while sitting down to avoid an ugly drape. A double-breasted suit is often able to be left buttoned, to avoid the difficulty of constantly redoing the inner button (the "anchor button") when standing up.


title: Suit

text: In the United States it is common for socks to match either the shoe (particularly black socks with black shoes) or the trouser leg. This latter is preferred as it makes the leg appear longer, provides a smoother visual transition between the pant leg and the shoe, and minimises the attention drawn by a trouser leg tailored to be too short. A more general rule is for socks to be darker than the shade of the trousers, but potentially a different, instead matching some other part of the outfit such as the shirt or necktie. With patterned socks, ideally the background colour of the sock should match the primary colour of the suit and the other colors should coordinate with other parts of the outfit.


title: Suit

text: Socks are preferably at least mid-calf height, if not knee-height ("over-the-calf"), and are usually made predominantly of cotton or wool, though luxury or dress socks may use more exotic blends such as silk and cashmere. Before World War II, patterned socks were common, and a variety of designs like Argyle or contrasting socks was commonly seen. After WWII, socks became more subdued in colour. In lieu of over-the-calf length (which will stay up by itself), some men still use garters to hold up their socks, but this is unusual.


title: Suit

text: Suit-wearing etiquette for women generally follows the same guidelines used by men, with a few differences and more flexibility.


title: Suit

text: For women, the skirt suit or dress suit are both acceptable; a blouse, which can be white or coloured, usually takes the place of a shirt. Women's suits can also be worn with coloured tops or T-shirts. Also, women usually wear suits in professional settings, rather than as general formal attire, as men do.


title: Suit

text: Women generally do not wear neckties with their suits, but some do. Fancy silk scarves that resemble a floppy ascot tie became popular in North America in the 1970s. By the 1980s, women were entering the white-collar workforce in increasing numbers, and their dress fashions adopted looks not dissimilar from men's business wear. By the early to mid-1980s, conservatively tailored skirt suits were the norm, in the same colours and fabrics considered standard in men's suits. These were typically worn with buttoned-up collared blouses, usually white or some pastel in colour. These were frequently accessorised with a version of the bow tie, usually the same fabrics, colours, and patterns as men's neckties and bow ties, but tied in a fuller bow at the collar. Pantyhose are worn with the skirt suit in black, nude or white.


title: Suit

text: Throughout the 20th and 21st centuries, the tailors of England, Italy, Spain, and France have been the leaders in the design of men's suits. The slim-fitting mohair and sharkskin suits developed in London and Milan during the 1960s were widely imitated by the mod subculture, and underwent a large scale revival during the late 2000s to mid 2010s due to their association with James Bond and Don Draper from "Mad Men".


title: Suit

text: Due to the humid climate, Italian suits are frequently made in shades of light grey, sand or stone to reflect the sunlight. Typical fabrics include lightweight flannel, a wool and mohair blend, and linen or chino cloth for hot weather.


title: Suit

text: Elsewhere in the Mediterranean, suits are considered impractical without constant air conditioning. As a result, most non-conservative businesses, regardless of size or wealth, tend to use casual clothes even in formal meetings. Some professions, such as banking, law, and certain government employees that deal directly with the public do have a more formal dress code.


title: Suit

text: Some Israeli branches of American firms tend to imitate their American counterparts' style of business casual, smart casual and informal clothing. However, many conservative Israeli professionals, especially Hasidic Jews, continue to wear the traditional single-breasted black, navy blue or grey rekel.


title: Suit

text: Because wearing a suit conveys a respectable image, many people wear suits during the job interview process. An interview suit is usually a conservative style, and often made of blue or grey fabric. Interview suits are frequently composed of wool or wool-blend fabric, with a solid or pin stripe pattern. The style of an interview suit, however, will depend on the organizational culture of the industry in which a person seeks employment.


title: Suit

text: In the Southwestern United States, men's suits often feature detailing inspired by traditional Western wear, such as a pointed yoke and arrow pockets. Suit coats similar in appearance to the Ike jacket are also widespread, and it is common practice to wear cowboy boots instead of conventional dress shoes. Country music singers and modern pop stars like Post Malone or Brandon Flowers of The Killers sometimes wear flashy Nudie suits with rhinestones and intricate embroidery.


title: Suit

text: In modern society, men's suits have become less common as an outfit of daily wear. During the 1990s, driven in part by the meteoric rise of newly successful technology companies with different cultural attitudes, the prevailing management philosophy of the time moved in favour of more casual attire for employees; the aim was to encourage a sense of openness and egalitarianism. "Business casual" dress still tends to be the norm for most workers up to and sometimes including mid-level management. Traditional business dress as an everyday style has been prevalent in middle- and upper-level corporate management (now sometimes collectively referred to as "suits"), and the professions (particularly law). Over time, suits have become less common at the executive level aside for job candidates and formal events, remaining in widespread use at other lives such as among middle-class hotel clerks and salespeople. Casual dress has also become common in Western academic institutions, with traditional business attire falling in popularity.


title: Suit

text: For many men who do not wear suits for work, particularly in Western society, wearing a suit is reserved for special occasions, such as weddings, funerals, court appearances, and other more formal social events. Hence, because they are not a daily outfit for most men, they are often viewed as being "stuffy" and uncomfortable. The combination of a tie, belt and vest can be tight and restrictive compared to contemporary casual wear, especially when these are purchased at minimal cost and quality for rare occasions, rather than being made to be worn comfortably. This tendency became prevalent enough that the Christian Science Monitor reported that a suit combined with a necktie and slacks was "a design that guarantees that its wearer will be uncomfortable."


title: Suit

text: Also remarkable is that the suit now frequently appears in Rock, Heavy Metal and Gothic happenings, even though such groups were once known for a rather rebellious tradition of clothing. Artists and bands such as Nick Cave, Interpol, Marilyn Manson, Blutengel and Akercocke are known for the use of formal clothing in music videos and stage performances. The suit also appears when fans dress for styles such as Lolita, Victorian and Corporate Gothic.


title: Suit

text: In 20th-century China, the Communist regime encouraged citizens to wear the Mao suit due to its egalitarian and utilitarian design.


title: Suit

text: After the independence of India, there was a backlash against Western fashions due to their association with the previous colonialist regime. Instead, professional Indian men began wearing the five-button Nehru suit, made from khadi to support the local textile industry. During the 1960s, these suits became fashionable among the British mod subculture due to their use by The Beatles. These made a brief comeback during the mid 2000s, but since 2010 they have been out of fashion in the West.


title: Suit

text: In the tropical Philippines, a former colony of the United States of America, a suit is called "terno"; the jacket that comes with it is called "amerikana". Because of the hot tropical climate, this formal wear is worn only when necessary, including formal, social or business events. Filipinos rarely wear a suit, and the youth would probably wear one only to a high school or college prom, in which case it might be rented. At any occasion where a suit is worn, it would also be acceptable to wear a long-sleeved or a short-sleeved barong tagalog, the national dress of the Philippines.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: Vice (stylized in all caps) is a Canadian-American magazine focused on lifestyle, arts, culture, and news/politics. Founded in 1994 in Montreal as an alternative punk magazine, the founders later launched the youth media company Vice Media, which consists of divisions including the printed magazine as well as a website, broadcast news unit, a film production company, a record label, and a publishing imprint. As of February 2015, the magazine's editor-in-chief is Ellis Jones.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: Founded by Suroosh Alvi, Gavin McInnes, and Shane Smith (the latter two being childhood friends), the magazine was launched in 1994 as the "Voice of Montreal" with government funding. The intention of the founders was to provide work and a community service. When the editors later sought to dissolve their commitments with the original publisher, Alix Laurent, they bought him out and changed the name to "Vice" in 1996.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: Richard Szalwinski, a Canadian software millionaire, acquired the magazine and relocated the operation to New York City in the late 1990s. Following the relocation, the magazine quickly developed a reputation for provocative and politically incorrect content. Under Szalwinski's ownership, a few retail stores were opened in New York City and customers could purchase fashion items that were advertised in the magazine. However, due to the end of the dot-com bubble, the three founders eventually regained ownership of the Vice brand, followed by closure of the stores.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: The British edition of "Vice" was launched in 2002 and Andy Capper was its first editor. Capper explained in an interview shortly after the UK debut that the publication's remit was to cover "the things we're meant to be ashamed of", and articles were published on topics such as bukkake and bodily functions.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: By the end of 2007, 13 foreign editions of "Vice" magazine were published, the Vice independent record label was functional, and the online video channel VBS.com had 184,000 unique viewers from the U.S. during the month of August. The media company was still based in New York City, but the magazine began featuring articles on topics that were considered more serious, such as armed conflict in Iraq, than previous content. Alvi explained to "The New York Times" in November 2007: "The world is much bigger than the Lower East Side and the East Village."


title: Vice (magazine)

text: McInnes left the publication in 2008, citing "creative differences" as the primary issue. In an email communication dated 23 January, McInnes explained: "I no longer have anything to do with Vice or VBS or DOs & DON'Ts or any of that. It's a long story but we've all agreed to leave it at 'creative differences,' so please don't ask me about it."


title: Vice (magazine)

text: At the commencement of 2012, an article in "Forbes" magazine referred to the Vice company as "Vice Media", but the precise time when this title development occurred is not public knowledge. Vice acquired the fashion magazine "i-D" in December 2012 and, by February 2013, Vice produced 24 global editions of the magazine, with a global circulation of 1,147,000 (100,000 in the UK). By this stage, Alex Miller had replaced Capper as the editor-in-chief of the UK edition. Furthermore, Vice consisted of 800 worldwide employees, including 100 in London, and around 3,500 freelancers also produced content for the company.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: In February 2015, Vice Media named Ellis Jones editor-in-chief of Vice magazine and former UK editor-in-chief, Alex Miller, was appointed to the position of global head of content.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: "Vice" magazine includes the work of journalists, columnists, fiction writers, graphic artists and cartoonists, and photographers. Both "Vice"s online and magazine content has shifted from dealing mostly with independent arts and pop cultural matters to covering more serious news topics. Due to the large array of contributors and the fact that often writers will only submit a small number of articles with the publication, "Vice"s content varies dramatically and its political and cultural stance is often unclear or contradictory. Articles on the site feature a range of subjects, often things not covered as by mainstream media. The magazine's editors have championed the immersionist school of journalism, which has been passed to other properties of Vice Media such as the documentary television show "Balls Deep" on the Viceland Channel. This style of journalism is regarded as something of a DIY antithesis to the methods practiced by mainstream news outlets, and has published an entire issue of articles written in accordance with this ethos. Entire issues of the magazine have also been dedicated to the concerns of Iraqi people, Native Americans, Russian people, people with mental disorders, and people with mental disabilities. "Vice" also publishes an annual guide for students in the United Kingdom.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: In 2007, a "Vice" announcement was published on the Internet: After umpteen years of putting out what amounted to a reference book every month, we started to get bored with it. Besides, too many other magazines have ripped it and started doing their own lame take on themes. So we're going to do some issues, starting now, that have whatever we feel like putting in them.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: In a March 2008 interview with "The Guardian", Smith was asked about the magazine's political allegiances and he stated, "We're not trying to say anything politically in a paradigmatic left/right way… We don't do that because we don't believe in either side. Are my politics Democrat or Republican? I think both are horrific. And it doesn't matter anyway. Money runs America; money runs everywhere."


title: Vice (magazine)

text: "Vice" founded its website as Viceland.com in 1996, as Vice.com was already owned. In 2007, it started VBS.tv as a domain, which prioritized videos over print, and had a number of shows for free such as "The Vice Guide to Travel". In 2011, Viceland.com and VBS.tv were combined into Vice.com, also the host of the Vice Motherboard website at motherboard.vice.com.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: In 2012, Vice Media was created as the parent company for "Vice" magazine and other properties including Vice News on HBO and the Vice.com website. The company has since expanded and diversified to include a network of online channels, including Munchies.tv, Motherboard.tv, Noisey.com, Thu.mp, and Broadly.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: In 2007, "Vice" published "The Vice Photo Book" (), with a collection of photos of Jaimie Warren, Jerry Hsu, Michael Rababy and Patrick O’Dell. The book is divided in five parts: "Vice Photographers", "Vice's Photojournalism", "Vice Fashion", and the final two sections are a collage of previously published "VICE" photos. The book also contains interviews with some of the photographers.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: From its beginnings as "Voice of Montreal", "Vice" had a "reputation for provocation". In 2010, "Vice" was described as "gonzo journalism for the YouTube generation". As the magazine grew into a broader media brand, it struggled with "how to distance itself from its crude past, yet hold on to enough of that reputation to cement, and grow, its authority with its core audience". Nevertheless, the magazine has continued to face controversy. In 2013, the magazine retracted parts of a fashion spread entitled 'Last Words' which depicted "female writers killing themselves". Also in 2013, "Vice" again gained unwelcome attention when the then-editor of the magazine joined millionaire software mogul John McAfee as he evaded authorities to avoid being questioned about a murder case.


title: Vice (magazine)

text: In the autumn of 2017, multiple stories were published citing allegations of sexual misconduct and a general "boys club" culture at "Vice" magazine's parent company, Vice Media.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: The 2023 XFL season is the league's second season, the first planned under its new ownership group of Dwayne Johnson, Dany Garcia, and Gerry Cardinale (RedBird Capital), and the third in the history of the XFL brand created and originally owned by Vince McMahon. The season is expected to start on February 18, 2023.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: The 2020 XFL season was cut short following five weeks of play in March 2020, as a result of immediate and prolonged stay-at-home orders and prohibitions on large gatherings imposed in an effort to stop the COVID-19 pandemic in the United States. On April 13, 2020, XFL parent company Alpha Entertainment declared bankruptcy in response to the measures, most of which would not be fully lifted until vaccines were made available and widespread in early 2021. The assets of the league were sold to Johnson, Garcia, and Cardinale on August 3, 2020.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: During the course of the 2021 offseason, the XFL's new ownership group began discussions with the Canadian Football League regarding a potential partnership; these discussions collapsed in July, leading the league to cancel its planned 2022 season.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: McMahon fired commissioner Oliver Luck shortly before the bankruptcy; the league was left in the stewardship of Jeffrey Pollack during the transition to new ownership until Pollack resigned and was succeeded by former Buffalo Bills president Russ Brandon in November 2021.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: The regular season is scheduled to start on February 18, 2023. A player combine was held on June 18, 2022, the 2023 XFL Draft was held from November 15 to 17, and training camps are set to begin on January 8, 2023.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: On March 11, 2022, multiple news reports indicated that the XFL had hired Reggie Barlow away from the Virginia State Trojans to serve as a head coach. The reports indicated Barlow would coach a team in San Antonio, Texas; San Antonio was not among the eight cities that hosted an XFL team in 2020 but had begun discussions with the XFL during the 2020 season and had hosted the San Antonio Commanders, the top-attended team in the Alliance of American Football in 2019. Virginia State confirmed Barlow had taken a job with the XFL, but no confirmation from any party had verified the San Antonio team's existence.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: On April 6, 2022, multiple news reports indicated that the XFL had hired their second head coach in former NFL Defensive Back Terrell Buckley. The reports indicated Buckley would coach a team in Orlando, Florida; Orlando was not among the eight cities that hosted an XFL team in 2020 but had begun discussions with the XFL about moving the Tampa Bay Vipers there during the 2020 season and had hosted the Orlando Apollos, the second top-attended team in the Alliance of American Football in 2019 and the Orlando Rage, one of the most successful teams in the original XFL in 2001.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: On April 6, 2022, A report came out that sources close to the league have mentioned that XFL would be keeping five teams in their original 2020 locations (DC Defenders, St. Louis BattleHawks, Dallas Renegades, Houston Roughnecks and Seattle Dragons), following through with the Vipers proposed move to Orlando, and adding two new teams in San Antonio and Las Vegas. The teams in San Antonio and Las Vegas would replace the New York Guardians and the Los Angeles Wildcats, respectively. According to the same report, the league was looking to re-hire Renegades head coach Bob Stoops and potentially bring back former Vipers head coach Marc Trestman in another capacity, while noting that in regard to coaches, "the situation (was) fluid" at the time and that several other former NFL players were being considered for coaching positions. Seattle and St. Louis, the XFL's two highest-attended teams in 2020, were long expected to return.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: On April 13, 2022, the XFL confirmed the hirings of Stoops, Buckley and Barlow, along with the league's five other head coaches, without identifying which teams they would coach. The other head coaches hired were Wade Phillips, Rod Woodson, Anthony Becht, Jim Haslett and Hines Ward. Haslett, who was later identified as the Seattle head coach, reportedly brought on former Roughnecks head coach June Jones as offensive coordinator, as Jones had accidentally leaked news of his new position on Twitter before it had been made official.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: On May 18, 2022, two separate reports indicated that The Dome at America's Center had left five open dates anticipating the BattleHawks' return, and that TDECU Stadium would host XFL games in 2023.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: On May 20, 2022, it is reported that the DC Defenders will go through a rebrand, including a name change, before taking the field in 2023, and on May 22, 2022, Randy Karraker of the St. Louis-based radio station 101 ESPN reports that the XFL was to formally announce the BattleHawks' return on 1 June (no such announcement materialized). Kevin Seifert announced that cities and stadiums, which would largely be in the same scale of college, NFL and Major League Soccer venues the league had used in 2020, would be announced by the end of July, and implied that teams that did not have trademark disputes and were returning from their home cities would retain their 2020 brands.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: Directors of player personnel and offensive and defensive coordinators were announced June 9, 2022. Among the announcements was the confirmation of June Jones joining Haslett's staff and former BattleHawks head coach Jonathan Hayes joining Stoops's staff in Dallas.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: On July 24, 2022, Johnson and Garcia held a XFL Townhall at Texas Live! where they confirmed all 2020 XFL teams except the New York Guardians, Los Angeles Wildcats and Tampa Bay Vipers would return. New York, Los Angeles, and Tampa would be replaced by teams in San Antonio, Las Vegas and Orlando, Florida. Team 9, the non-playing unified scout team/practice squad, will also not return, with the league taking a more open approach to signing free agents midseason than it did in 2020.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: On July 25, the league announced it had struck an agreement with Arlington, Texas to serve as the league's centralized hub. The league will host training camps (much as Houston had done in the 2020 XFL season) and practices at various locations in Arlington (Northwest ISD High School, Carroll Senior High School, Vernon Newsom Stadium and Choctaw Stadium), but unlike the United States Football League, the XFL will play games in home cities and travel to each city on weekends for games and connection opportunities with the community.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: On September 23, 2022, the XFL online store leaked placeholders for the new team names, prompting speculation that the Renegades, Dragons, BattleHawks, Defenders and Roughnecks would return in their home cities, that the Vipers brand would be transferred to Las Vegas (in homage to the Las Vegas Valley being the northwestern limit of the Western diamondback rattlesnake's natural habitat), and that the Guardians brand would be placed in Orlando. San Antonio would be branded as the Brahmas. Team identities were scheduled to be released October 31; teaser segments released the day before showed that the Dragons' and BattleHawks' new logos were exact matches to their old logos, and that color schemes matched the Renegades', Guardians', Roughnecks' and Defenders' brandings from 2020, with slight design alterations.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: Of the eight head coaches in the XFL in 2020, only one Arlington Renegades coach Bob Stoops will return in the same position in 2023.


title: 2023 XFL season

text: In May 2022, the XFL announced it had signed an exclusive agreement with ESPN Inc. and The Walt Disney Company to carry every XFL game across the ESPN network, including ABC, and FX. The deal runs through 2027.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: Thomas and the Magic Railroad is a 2000 children's fantasy adventure film written and directed by Britt Allcroft and produced by Allcroft and Phil Fehrle. It is the only theatrical live-action/animated "Thomas & Friends" film in the franchise. The film stars Alec Baldwin as Mr. Conductor, Peter Fonda, Mara Wilson, Didi Conn, Russell Means, Cody McMains, Michael E. Rodgers, and the voices of Eddie Glen and Neil Crone. The film is based on the British children's book series "The Railway Series" by the Reverend W. Awdry, its televised adaptation "Thomas & Friends" by Allcroft, and the American television series "Shining Time Station" by Allcroft and Rick Siggelkow. The film tells the story of Lily Stone (Wilson), the granddaughter of the caretaker (Fonda) of an enchanted steam engine who is lacking an appropriate supply of coal, and Mr. Conductor (Baldwin) of Shining Time Station, whose provisions of magical gold dust are at a critical low. To ameliorate these problems, Lily and Mr. Conductor enlist the help of Thomas the Tank Engine (Glen), who confronts the ruthless, steam engine-hating Diesel 10 (Crone) along the way.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: Plans for an original "Thomas & Friends" film started with Paramount Pictures, but were not carried through. Shortly afterward, Destination Films began funding the project and production started in 1998. Filming took place at the Strasburg Rail Road, in Pennsylvania, in Toronto, Canada, and on the Isle of Man. The film underwent extensive editing following poor test screenings, resulting in the removal of the majority of scenes featuring Doug Lennox's character P.T. Boomer – who was originally intended to be the story's primary antagonist – and the recasting of several voice actors.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: "Thomas and the Magic Railroad" premiered at the Odeon Leicester Square in the United Kingdom on July 9, 2000. It received overwhelmingly negative reviews from critics upon release, mainly from the UK where "Shining Time Station" had not been broadcast, with criticism of the acting, plot, special effects, and lack of fidelity to its source material. The film was a box office bomb, grossing $19.7 million worldwide against a production budget of $19 million; Allcroft resigned from her company in September 2000 due to the film's poor performance. HiT Entertainment acquired the company two years later, including the television rights to "Thomas". As of October 2020, a second theatrical live-action/animated "Thomas & Friends" film is in development at Mattel Films, a division of Mattel, the current owner of HiT Entertainment, with Marc Forster serving as director.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: Sir Topham Hatt and his family have left the Island of Sodor on holiday with Edward, leaving Mr. Conductor in charge of the engines. Gordon complains to Thomas about being late by eight seconds when Diesel 10 races by, scaring both engines. Meanwhile, in Shining Time, Mr. Conductor is suffering a crisis; his supply of magic gold dust is alarmingly low and not enough for him to travel back from Sodor. At Tidmouth Sheds, Thomas is talking to James, when Diesel 10 arrives and announces his plan to rid Sodor of steam engines by finding and destroying Lady, the lost engine, the key to steam engines living in peace. Thomas leaves to collect Mr. Conductor. Lady is hidden in a workshop on Muffle Mountain by her driver, Burnett Stone, after Diesel 10's previous attempt to destroy her. Lady is unable to steam despite trying all of the coals in Indian Valley. At the sheds, the steam engines conclude that they should find Lady before Diesel 10, unaware that subordinates of Diesel 10, Splatter and Dodge, are spying on them. That night, Diesel 10 approaches the shed where the steam engines are sleeping and destroys the side of it with his claw. Mr. Conductor tries to keep him in order, but the gold dust fails and Mr. Conductor scares Diesel 10 away by threatening to pour a bag of sugar in his fuel tanks.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: Burnett's granddaughter, Lily, is visiting her grandfather. She meets a dog named Mutt at the railway station. Lily meets Mr. Conductor's cousin Junior and Stacy Jones before she is taken to Burnett's house. Mr. Conductor calls his cousin, Mr. C. Junior, to help him with his gold dust crisis. That night, Percy and Thomas conclude there is a secret railway between Sodor and Shining Time. After spying on their conversation, Diesel 10 goes to the smelters yard to tell Splatter and Dodge of his plans to destroy Lady. Observing this, Toby distracts Diesel 10 by ringing his bell, causing Diesel 10 to knock one of the supports out from the shed with his claw, which collapses the roof on top of them. The next morning, Thomas collects six coal trucks for Henry, and one of them accidentally rolls through the buffers that lead to the secret railway. Later that day, Mr. Conductor is abducted by Diesel 10, who threatens to drop him off a viaduct unless he divulges the location of the buffers, but Mr. Conductor cuts one of the claw's hydraulic hoses with a pair of tin snips, and is thrown free. He lands at the Sodor windmill, where he finds a clue to the source of the gold dust.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: Lily meets Patch, who takes her to Shining Time, where she meets Junior again. Junior takes her through the Magic Railroad to Sodor, where they meet Thomas. Thomas is not happy to see Junior, but agrees to help him and Lily and takes them to the windmill, where they find Mr. Conductor. Junior climbs onto one of the sails and is thrown onto Diesel 10's roof. Later that night, Percy finds that Splatter and Dodge have found the Sodor entrance to the Magic Railroad and goes to warn Thomas. Thomas agrees to take Lily home. While traveling through the Magic Railroad, Thomas discovers the missing coal truck, which he collects. Lily goes to find Burnett, leaving Thomas stranded. Thomas rolls down the mountain and re-enters the Magic Railroad through another secret portal. Meanwhile, Junior reunites with Mr. Conductor after managing to escape with James from Diesel 10 by using the last of his gold dust.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: Lily finds Burnett in his workshop and he explains the problem getting Lady to steam. Lily suggests using a special coal from Sodor. Patch retrieves the truck and Burnett uses the coal to start Lady. Now steaming, Lady takes Burnett, Lily, Patch and Mutt along the Magic Railroad. Thomas arrives and the two engines return to Sodor, where they meet Mr. Conductor and Junior. Diesel 10 arrives with Splatter and Dodge, who decide to stop helping him. Diesel 10 chases Thomas and Lady to the viaduct, where the steam engines make it safely across, but the viaduct collapses under Diesel 10's weight, and he falls and lands onto a barge filled with sludge.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: Thomas, Lady and Burnett return to the grotto; Lily combines water from a wishing well and shavings from the Magic Railroad to make more gold dust. Junior decides to go to work on Sodor and Mr. Conductor gives him his conductor's hat before sending him to another railway. Lily, Burnett, Patch and Mutt return to Shining Time, and Lady returns to the Magic Railroad while Thomas travels home into the sunset.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: Additionally, Doug Lennox was cast as P.T. Boomer, Burnett's rival and an emotionally muddy biker man until his scenes were cut from the film entirely. Robert Tinkler portrayed Patch as an adult in scenes that were also not included in the final cut.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: In the early 1990s, the character of Thomas the Tank Engine (adapted from the Rev. W. Awdry's "Railway Series" into the TV series "Thomas the Tank Engine & Friends", created by Britt Allcroft) was at the height of his popularity following three successful series. At the same time, "Shining Time Station" (an American series that combined episodes from the previous series with original live-action characters and scenarios, also created by Allcroft along with Rick Siggelkow) was made, and also successful. As early as 1994, prior to the launch of "Thomas"s fourth series, Britt Allcroft had plans to make a feature film based on both of these series, and would make use of the model trains from "Thomas" and the live-action aesthetic of "Shining Time Station".


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: In mid to late 1995, Britt Allcroft was approached by Barry London, then vice-chairman of Paramount Pictures, with an idea for the "Thomas" film. In February 1996, Britt signed a contract to write the script for the film with the working title "Thomas and the Magic Railroad". London's interest is thought to have stemmed from his three-year-old daughter, who was enthralled by "Thomas". According to a press release, filming was to take place at Shepperton Studios, in the United Kingdom and the United States, with the theatrical release date set for 1997. However, later that year, after London left the company, Paramount shelved the plans for the film. This left Allcroft to seek other sources of funding. Discussions with PolyGram about the film were held, but not for long, because of the company being in the middle of a corporate restructuring and sale.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: In the Summer of 1998, during Series 5 of "Thomas"s production, Allcroft saw an Isle of Man Film Commission advert. They were offering tax incentives to companies wanting to film on the Island. Allcroft visited, and felt that the location was perfect. During that year, Barry London became Chairman of the newly founded Destination Films (owned by Sony Pictures). He renewed his interest in the project, and Destination Films became the main financial backer and studio for the film.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: In early August 1999, it was announced that Alec Baldwin, Mara Wilson and Peter Fonda had joined the cast to play Mr. Conductor, Lily Stone and Burnett Stone respectively. David Jacobs, the former vice president of The Britt Allcroft Company, stated that Baldwin got involved in the project because his daughter Ireland was a fan of the series. John Bellis was originally attached to voice Thomas, but was replaced by Canadian actor Edward Glen. Ewan McGregor and Bob Hoskins had also expressed interest for the role. Michael Angelis, the UK narrator for the "Thomas & Friends" television series at the time, was originally cast to voice both James and Percy, but was later replaced by voice actresses Susan Roman and Linda Ballantyne. Keith Scott was originally set to voice Diesel 10, but was later replaced by Neil Crone in the final film. Patrick Breen (known as the narrator of Allcroft's "Magic Adventures of Mumfie") was originally set to voice both Splatter and Dodge, but was eventually replaced by both Kevin Frank and Neil Crone.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: Principal photography began on August 2, 1999, and wrapped on October 15, 1999. The movie was filmed at the Strasburg Rail Road in Strasburg, Pennsylvania (United States), as well as in Toronto, Ontario, Canada and on the Isle of Man. Castletown railway station on the Isle of Man Railway formed part of Shining Time Station and the goods shed at Port St Mary railway station became Burnett Stone's workshop. Running shots of the "Indian Valley" train were filmed at the Strasburg Rail Road location. The large passenger station where Lily boards the train is the Harrisburg Transportation Center. Norfolk & Western 4-8-0 475 was repainted as the Indian Valley locomotive. Sodor was realised using models and chroma key. The models were animated using live action remote control, as on the television series. The model sequences were filmed in Toronto instead of Shepperton Studios, the "home" of the original TV show; however, several of the show's key staff were flown over to participate. The Magic Railway was created using models, CGI, and water-coloured matte paintings.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: In a 2007 interview with Sodor Island Forums & Fansite, writer and director Britt Allcroft revealed that before the film's theatrical release, she and editor Ron Wisman were forced to completely change the film from how she had originally written it, by removing Burnett's rival P.T. Boomer (played by Doug Lennox), who was the original antagonist and character originally responsible for wrecking Lady, because the test audiences at the March 2000 preview screenings in Los Angeles considered Boomer to "too scary" for young children. Despite most of his scenes being removed, Boomer can still be seen briefly in one scene, however the scene was redubbed with Boomer as a lost motorcyclist talking to Burnett for directions, as in the original cut, Boomer and Burnett were having a row.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: Lily Stone (played by Mara Wilson) was intended to be the narrator of the story. Before filming, Thomas's voice was provided by John Bellis, a British fireman and part-time taxi driver who worked on the film as the Isle of Man transportation co-ordinator and facilities manager. Bellis received the role when he happened to pick up Britt Allcroft and her crew from the Isle of Man Airport in July 1999. According to Allcroft, after hearing him speak for the first time, she told her colleagues, "I have just heard the voice of Thomas. That man is exactly how Thomas would sound!" A few days later, she offered the role to Bellis, and he accepted. However, the test audiences felt that to his voice sounded "too old" for Thomas, although Bellis did receive onscreen credit as the Transportation Co-Ordinator, and a few of his lines remain intact in both the teaser trailer and the original UK trailer.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: Crushed and angered by the changes, Bellis said he was "gutted", but still wished the filmmakers well. In an April 2000 interview, following the changes, he said, "It was supposed to be my big break, but it hasn't put me off and I am hoping something else will come along." English actor Michael Angelis, who was the UK narrator of the series at the time, was the original voice of both James and Percy, but was recast for the same reason as Bellis. Australian voice actor Keith Scott originally voiced Diesel 10 (as evidenced in both the US and UK trailers), but he believes that he was recast because test audiences claimed that his portrayal was "too scary" for young children. Additionally, American actor Patrick Breen was the original voice of both Splatter and Dodge, but he was also subsequently recast for unknown reasons.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: "Thomas and the Magic Railroad" is a soundtrack released on both CD and cassette on August 1, 2000. It features twelve music tracks from the feature film composed by Hummie Mann.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: "Thomas and the Magic Railroad" was released theatrically on July 14, 2000, in the United Kingdom and Ireland, and on July 26, 2000, in the United States and Canada. The film was also released in Australia on December 14, 2000, and in New Zealand on April 7, 2001. Before that, the film premiered at the Odeon Leicester Square; for the purpose, a steam locomotive, no. 47298 painted to resemble Thomas, was brought to the cinema by low loader on July 9, 2000. National press coverage was low, as many journalists were concentrating on the launch of the book, "Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire", for which a special train called "Hogwarts Express" would run from July 8 to 11. In September 2020, it was announced that the film would be re-released in theaters on October 24, 2020, for the film's 20th anniversary.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: "Thomas and the Magic Railroad" was originally released onto VHS and DVD by Icon Home Entertainment on October 19, 2000 in the United Kingdom, and by Columbia TriStar Home Video on October 31, 2000 in the United States. In 2007, the film was released as part of a double feature with "The Adventures of Elmo in Grouchland". It was also released as part of a triple feature with "The Adventures of Milo and Otis" and "The Bear".


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: A re-release of the film on DVD and Blu-ray as a 20th anniversary edition from Shout! Factory and under license by Sony Pictures Home Entertainment was released on September 29, 2020. The 20th anniversary edition includes a two-part documentary of the film, new interviews with the cast and crew, and a rough cut version of the film including extended and deleted scenes as well as the storyline of P.T. Boomer.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: The film grossed $19.7 million worldwide against a production budget of $19 million. During its second weekend of screening in Britain, it took in £170,000.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: On Rotten Tomatoes, the film has an approval rating of 21% based on 68 reviews, along with an average rating of 3.97/10. The site's critical consensus reads, "Kids these days demand cutting edge special effects or at least a clever plot with cute characters. This movie has neither, having lost in its Americanization what the British original did so right." On Metacritic, the film has a score of 19 out of 100 based on 23 critics, indicating "overwhelming dislike". Audiences polled by CinemaScore gave the film an average grade of "B" on an A+ to F scale.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: Roger Ebert of the "Chicago Sun-Times" gave the film one star out of four, and wrote "(the fact) That "Thomas and the Magic Railroad" made it into theaters at all is something of a mystery. This is a production with 'straight to video' written all over it. Kids who like the Thomas books might kinda like it. Especially younger kids. Real younger kids. Otherwise, no." While he admired the models and art direction, he criticized how the engines' mouths did not move when they spoke, the overly depressed performance of Peter Fonda, as well as the overall lack of consistency in the plot. Elvis Mitchell of "The New York Times" gave the film a negative review, saying, "Mr. Baldwin's attack – there's no better way to put it – is unforgettable."


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: William Thomas of "Empire" gave the film a one out of five stars, he was critical of the films special effects, stating that "believe it or not, the true villains of the piece are, in fact, the 'special' effects. Quite how – in today's era of slo-mo and seamless digital wizardry – such a shoddy result can have been achieved is anyone's guess. With clunky bluescreen, spot-a-mile-off matte work and an absolute lack of synergy between real-life and animated action, it all conspires to provide an appropriately amateur sheen." "Plugged In" stated, "While the animation maintains its simple appearance, the plot is anything "but" simple. And that's not good news for the many tots who make up the majority of "Thomas" audience. Switching back and forth between Shining Time and Sodor, interweaving two relatively complex story lines, may confuse more than it challenges. Parents may well find that their children are squirming in their seats long before Thomas rides his magic rails into the sunset. That said, and the magic notwithstanding, tikes who do manage to grasp the complex story lines, and can sit still for an hour and a half, will learn good lessons about friendship, courage, hard work and being kind." Nell Minow of Common Sense Media gave the film three out of five stars and writing that it "will please [Thomas fans]" but that the plot "might confuse kids".


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: A video game based on the film, titled "Thomas and the Magic Railroad: Print Studio", was released in the United Kingdom. Published by Hasbro Interactive, it was released for PC on August 25, 2000.


title: Thomas and the Magic Railroad

text: A special video presentation commemorating the 20th anniversary of the film and the 75th anniversary of the "Thomas & Friends" franchise (produced by Rainbow Sun Productions) premiered on YouTube on July 20, 2020 and was available for viewing through August 2. The four-hour event, directed by Eric Scherer, was a virtual script reading of a "reimagined extended edition" of the film, utilizing elements from the May 1999 draft, the August 1999 filmed script, and the finished 2000 film, along with new original material and live performances of the film's songs being intercut with the reading.