The Extension Agent's

    Handbook for Emergency Preparation and Response



		   A Special Project
			   by
	  Texas Agricultural Extension Service
			  and
	  Hazard Reduction and Recovery Center

		with funding provided by
     Extension Service-United States Department of Agriculture



     Dr. D. L. Bilbo                               Jay Todd
    Project Director                          Project Associate

			 Introduction

The Extension Agent's Handbook for Disaster Preparedness and Response
can be a valuable response tool for you, the Extension agent, in times
of emergency or as an aid in preparedness education activities.  The
Handbook is divided into two parts to provide the information you need
in an easy-to-use format.  The first section of the Handbook, General
Family Preparedness, provides basic information you may need to access
quickly in any disaster or emergency situation.  It also may be used as
a preparedness education tool for the public.

The second section of the Handbook covers 10 disaster specific
situations.  For the purposes of this manual, a disaster is any event
which drastically affects a person's life or livelihood.  Floods,
fires, hurricanes, tornadoes, winter storms, earthquakes, droughts and
volcanic eruptions are considered to be natural disasters, events over
which one usually has no control.  Radiological and hazardous materials
accidents may be caused by the failure of people to maintain control
over the operation, transportation or storage of certain materials.  In
addition to an overview of the disaster, each section provides a series
of preparedness measures and post-disaster responses that should be
taken in conjunction with those outlined in the General Family
Preparedness section.

This handbook is not intended to cover every situation.  It provides
basic information you will need for a disaster situation and early
post-disaster response.  Because every community is different, special
consideration for the local area should be taken into account along
with the information provided in the Handbook.

Pages and sections of the Handbook may be removed and photocopied.
Information is structured in a manner conducive to public use.
Extension agents are encouraged to provide copies of the material to
the public both as "preventive education" and for response needs.

This Handbook was developed as a joint effort of Extension
Service-United States Department of Agriculture, the Texas Agricultural
Extension Service and the Hazard Reduction and Recovery Center, Texas
A&M University.





The information given herein is for educational purpose only.
Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with the
understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by
the Texas Agricultural Extension Service is implied.


Educational programs conducted by the Texas Agricultural Extension
Service serve citizens of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level,
race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin. Issued in
furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home
Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, in cooperation with the
United States Department of Agriculture.  Zerle L. Carpenter, Director,
Texas Agricultural Extension Service, The Texas A&M University System.
 9/94

			   Acknowledgments

  The following agencies and individuals have contributed to the
  development of this handbook.

  American Red Cross-National Headquarters American Red Cross-Brazos
  Valley Chapter Arkansas Cooperative Extension Colorado Earthquake
  Hazard Reduction Program (CEHRP) Federal Emergency Management Agency
  Florida Cooperative Extension Service Hazard Reduction and Recovery
  Center-Texas A&M University (HRRC) Kansas State Cooperative Extension
  Service National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) National Weather
  Service Natural Hazards Centers-University of Colorado North Carolina
  Cooperative Extension Service North Carolina Emergency Management
  Penn State University Texas Agricultural Extension Service (TAEX)
  Texas Agri-Business Electric United States Department of
  Agriculture-Extension Service (ES-USDA) United States Department of
  Agriculture-Agriculture (Ag-USDA) United States Fire Administration
  (USFA) Washington State Cooperative Extension

  Meri K. Appy - NFPA Dr. David Bilbo - TAEX/HRRC Dr. Wayne Blanchard -
  FEMA Dr. Judith Bowers - ES-USDA Dr. Billy Caldwell - NC Extension
  Jim Coyle - USFA Dr. Chester Fehlis - TAEX Dr. Guy Fipps - TAEX Wilma
  Hammet - NC Extension Dr. Phil Hamman - TAEX Catherine Henry - NC EM
  Dr. Glenda Herman - NC Extension Dr. Jennie Kitching - TAEX Harriet
  Jennings - NC Extension Virginia Kimball Dr. Bruce Lesikar - TAEX
  Shirley Lewis - TAEX
    Dr. Elizabeth Limersal - FEMA  Dr. Rocky Lopes - ARC Mary Fran
  Myers - Natural Hazards Center Dr. Sherry Oaks - CEHRP Dr. Nell Page
  - TAEX Greg Parham - ES-USDA Dr. Susan Quiring - TAEX Brad Rein -
  ES-USDA Gordon Riall - TAEX Dr. Milo Schult - AR Extension Greg Stark
  - Texas Agri-Business Electric Bob Stephens - WA Extension Dr. John
  Sweeten - TAEX William Thomas - B/CS Red Cross Jay Todd - TAEX Dr.
  Doug Welsh - TAEX Dr. Dennis Wenger - HRRC Don Wernly - National
  Weather Service
    Sandra Zaslow - NC ExtensionSupplemental funding for reproduction
    and distribution provided by the
		   College of Architecture
		      Texas A&M University.                      Table
		      of Contents


Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  i

Acknowledgments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ii

General Family Preparedness. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
   Why Preparedness? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
   Family Disaster Supply Kit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2
   4-Step Family Preparedness Plan . . . . . . . . . . . .  7
      Preparing Children for Disaster. . . . . . . . . . . 10
      Special Preparations for People with Disabilities. . 10
      Special Preparations for the Hearing Impaired. . . . 11
      Special Preparations for the Visually Impaired . . . 11
   Evacuation Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
      Preparing for Evacuation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
      Evacuating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
      Returning Home After the Disaster. . . . . . . . . . 15
   When Disaster Strikes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
      The Role of Government After a Disaster. . . . . . . 16
   Emotional Recovery After a Disaster . . . . . . . . . . 17
      Helping Children Cope After a Disaster . . . . . . . 18
   Food Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
      Precautions Against Power Outages. . . . . . . . . . 20
      After a Power Outage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
      Tornado and Wind Related Contamination . . . . . . . 21
     Flooded Food Recovery. . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
     Food Safety After a Fire . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . 23
   Insurance and Resources After a Disaster. . . . . . . . 24
  Special Post-Disaster Considerations. . . . . . . . . .  26
      Restoring Flooded Water Systems. . . . . . . . . . . 26
      Disinfecting Wells . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
      Disposing of Animal Carcasses. . . . . . . . . . . . 28
   Additional Resources. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

   Drought  .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
   Water Conservation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
   Water Conservation at Home. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
   Reading a Water Meter To Measure Leaks. . . . . . . . . 34
   Installing a Low-Flow Showerhead. . . . . . . . . . . . 34 
   Installing Shower Flow Restrictors. . . . . . . . . . . 34
   Installing Toilet Dams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
   Water Saving Steps When Remodeling. . . . . . . . . . . 36
   Making Repairs To Toilets To Stop Water Loss. . . . . . 36 
   Repairing Faucet Leaks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
   Adding New Landscape Or Redesigning The Yard. . . . . . 39
   Landscape Water Conservation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
   Watering Lawns and Plants During a Drought. . . . . . . 44
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 45
      Developing a Crop Water Management Plan. . . . . . . 45
      Crop Water Requirements and Water Use Efficiencies . 46
      Developing and Improving Vegetative Cover. . . . . . 48
      Maintaining Vegetative Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
      Managing Salinity . . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . . . 50

Earthquakes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
   How Earthquakes are Measured. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
   Preparing for an Earthquake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
   During an Earthquake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
   Responses Inside Buildings During an Earthquake . . . . 55
   Responses if You are Outside During an Earthquake . . . 55
   After an Earthquake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 57

Residential Fires. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
   Fire Safety and Prevention. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
   What to Do in Case of a Fire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
   What to Do After a Fire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61

Floods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
   Preparing for Floods and Flash Floods . . . . . . . . . 63
   Building Dikes To Prevent Minor Surface Flooding. . . . 64
   Preventing Leaks in Basements . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
   Cleaning Up After a Flood Setting Priorities. . . . . . 67
   Salvaging Sewing Machines and Sergers . . . . . . . . . 68
   Cleaning Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses. . . . . . 69
Cleaning Flood-soiled Blankets, Quilts, Comforters, Linens 72
  Restoring Electrical Service After a Flood. .  . . . . . 74
  Flooded Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  76
   Checking Flood-damaged Buildings. . . . . . . . . . . . 77
   Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements. . . . . . . . 79
   Finding and Repairing Leaks in Roofs. . . . . . . . . . 81
   Controlling Rodents After Floods. . . . . . . . . . . . 82
   Controlling Insects After Floods. . . . . . . . . . . . 83
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 84
Preparing For a Flood or Flash Flood on Your Farm or Ranch 84
      Protecting Livestock During a Flood. . . . . . . . . 84
      Preparing to Evacuate Your Farm. . . . . . . . . . . 85
      Safety Rules for Farm Clean-up . . . . . . . . . . . 86

Hazardous Materials Accidents. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
   Preparing for Hazardous Materials Accidents in the Home 88
   What to Do If a Hazardous Materials Accident Occurs . . 90
   After a Hazardous Materials Incident. . . . . . . . . . 91
   Reacting to a Hazardous Spill in Your Home. . . . . . . 92
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 93
      What to do if a Hazardous Materials Accident Occurs. 93
      After a Hazardous Materials Accident . . . . . . . . 93

Hurricanes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
   How and Where Hurricanes Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
   Why Hurricanes are a Risk to People . . . . . . . . . . 95
   How to Prepare for a Hurricane. . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
   Actions During a Hurricane Situation. . . . . . . . . . 97
   Basic Response After a Hurricane. . . . . . . . . . . . 98
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 99
      Turf Grass Recovery After a Storm Surge. . . . . . . 99
      Recovering Small Fruits. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101

Radiological Accidents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
   Radiation Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104
   Preparing for a Nuclear Power Plant Accident. . . . . .105
   What to Do in a Nuclear Power Plant Emergency . . . . .106
   Safety of Home Gardens After a Nuclear Accident . . . .107
   Recovering Losses and Expenses from a Nuclear Accident.107
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . .108
      What to Do in a Nuclear Power Plant Emergency. . . .108
      Animal Care After a Nuclear Accident . . . . . . . .109
      Recovering Exposed Fruits, Vegetables and Soils. . .110
      Monitoring Fish and Marine Life. . . . . . . . . . .111
      Marketing Animals and Products . . . . . . . . . . .111

Tornadoes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112
   How to Prepare for a Tornado. . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
   Special Precautions for Mobile Home Dwellers. . . . . .114
   What to Do During a Tornado Warning . . . . . . . . . .115
   Responses After a Tornado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
   Inspecting Buildings for Hidden Wind Damage . . . . . .116
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . .117

Volcanic Eruptions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
   Preparing for a Volcanic Eruption . . . . . . . . . . .119
   During a Volcanic Eruption. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
   Driving in Heavy Ash Areas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121

Winter Storms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
   Preparing for Winter Storms . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123
   Special Considerations for Travelers. . . . . . . . . .125
   Winterizing Mobile Homes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
   Winterizing Residential Buildings . . . . . . . . . . .129
   Preparations to Reduce Heat Loss from Buildings . . . .130
   What To Do During a Home Power Failure. . . . . . . . .131
   Responses to Other Heat Loss Problems . . . . . . . . .134
   Protecting Your Hot Water System. . . . . . . . . . . .135
   Protecting Your Plumbing System . . . . . . . . . . . .136
   Protecting Your Sewage System . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
   Protecting Appliances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
   Preventing Ice Dams on Eaves. . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
   Responses to Take When Caught Outdoors. . . . . . . . .139
   Responses If Trapped By a Blizzard. . . . . . . . . . .140
   Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . .141
      Preparing for a Winter Storm . . . . . . . . . . . .141
      Providing Windbreaks for Livestock Protection. . . .142
      Creating Windbreaks On Your Property . . . . . . . .143
      Protecting Livestock During Winter Storms. . . . . .145
      Caring for Livestock After a Blizzard. . . . . . . .146
      Feeding Cattle After a Blizzard. . . . . . . . . . .146
      Feeding Sheep After a Blizzard . . . . . . . . . . .147
      Feeding Horses After a Blizzard. . . . . . . . . . .147
      Feeding Swine After a Blizzard . . . . . . . . . . .147
      Protecting Poultry and Livestock . . . . . . . . . .148
      Protecting Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
      Storing Milk and Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
      Repairing Ice and Snow Damage to Shrubs and Trees. .150

Subject Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
		  General Family Preparedness

   General Family Preparedness . . . . . . . . . . .  1
      Why Preparedness?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1
      Family Disaster Supply Kit . . . . . . . . . .  2
      4-Step Family Preparedness Plan. . . . . . . .  7
	 Preparing Children for Disaster . . . . . . 10
   Special Preparations for People with Disabilities 10
   Special Preparations for the Hearing Impaired. .  11
   Special Preparations for the Visually Impaired. .  11
   Evacuation Procedures. . . . . .  . . . . . . . .  12
	 Preparing for Evacuation. . . . . . . . .  . 13
         Evacuating. . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
         Returning Home After the Disaster . . .  . . 15
         When Disaster Strikes.  . . . . . . .  . . . 16
	 The Role of Government After a Disaster  . . 16
         Emotional Recovery After a Disaster. . . . . 17
	 Helping Children Cope After a Disaster . . . 18
         Food Safety. .  . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . 20
	 Precautions Against Power Outages . . . . . 20
         After a Power Outage. . . . . . . . . . . . 20
         Tornado and Wind Related Contamination. . . 21
         Flooded Food Recovery . . . . . . . . . . . 22
         Food Safety After a Fire. . . . . . . . . . 23
      Insurance and Resources After a Disaster . . . 24
      Special Post-Disaster Considerations . . . . . 26
	 Restoring Flooded Water Systems . . . . . . 26
         Disinfecting Wells. . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
         Disposing of Animal Carcasses . . . . . . . 28
         Additional Resources . . . . . . .. . . . . 29


		 General Family Preparedness


  Disasters can affect any part of the United States at any time of the
  year, swiftly and without warning.  Most people don't think of a
  disaster until it is too late; then they suddenly realize how
  unprepared they are for the massive changes it makes in their lives.
  Local officials can be overwhelmed and emergency response personnel
  may not be able to reach everyone who needs help right away.

  Each type of disaster requires clean-up and recovery.  The period
  after a disaster is often very difficult for families, at times as
  devastating as the disaster itself.  Families which are prepared
  ahead of time can reduce the fear, confusion and losses that come
  with disaster.  They can be ready to evacuate their homes, know what
  to expect in public shelters and how to provide basic first aid.



		  Family Disaster Supply Kit


  One of the first steps toward preparedness is the creation of a
  family disaster supply kit.  This will help families get through the
  first few days after a disaster.  Public shelter after a disaster may
  not offer some of the basic necessities.  The development of a kit
  will make a stay in a public shelter more comfortable, should it be
  necessary.  Store the kit in a convenient place known to all family
  members.  Store items in airtight bags or containers.  Replenish the
  kit twice a year.

  Include six basic items:

	 Water (page 2) Food (page 3) First Aid Kit (page 4) Tools and
	 Supplies (page 5) Clothing and Bedding (page 6) Special Items
	 (page 6)


			  1.  Water



    Store water in clean plastic containers such as thoroughly washed
    and rinsed soft drink bottles with tight fitting screw-on caps.

    Store 1 gallon per day per family member (2 quarts for drinking, 2
    quarts for food preparation/ sanitation).  Children, nursing mothers
    and ill people will need more.  A 3-day supply of water should be
    stored for every family member.

    Replace water every 6 months.

    Notes:

			   2.  Food

  Store at least a 3-day supply of non-perishable food.  Select foods
  that require no refrigeration, preparation or cooking and little or
  no water.  If you must heat food, pack a can of sterno.  Rotate these
  foods into the regular diet frequently to keep the supply fresh.  In
  a disaster supply kit include:

    Ready-to-eat canned meats, fruits and vegetables

    Canned juices, milk, soup (if powdered, store extra water)

    Staples such as sugar, salt, pepper
    High energy foods such as peanut butter, jelly, crackers, granola
    bars, trail mix

    Vitamins, infant food and food for special diets

    Comfort/stress foods such as cookies, hard candy, instant coffee,
    tea bags


    Notes:

		      3.  First Aid Kit


  Assemble a first aid kit for the home and one for each vehicle.  An
  approved American Red Cross kit may be purchased, or one may be
  assembled with the following items:

    Sterile adhesive bandages in assorted sizes

    2-inch and 4-inch sterile gauze pads (4-6 of each)

    Hypoallergenic adhesive tape

    Triangular bandages (3)

    2-inch and 3-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls each)

    Scissors

    Tweezers

    Needle

    Moistened towelettes

    Antiseptic

    Thermometer Tongue blades (2)

    Sunscreen

    Tube of petroleum jelly or other lubricant

    Assorted sizes of safety pins

    Cleansing agent/soap

    Latex gloves (2 pairs)

  Non-prescription drugs

    Aspirin or nonaspirin pain reliever

    Anti-diarrhea medication

    Antacid (for stomach upset)

    Syrup of Ipecac (use to induce vomiting if advised by the Poison
    Control Center)

    Laxative

    Activated charcoal (use if advised by the Poison Control Center)


    Notes:

		    4.  Tools and Supplies


  Various tools and supplies may be needed for temporary repairs or
  personal needs.  Include these items in your disaster supply kit:

    Battery operated radio and extra batteries

    Flashlight and extra batteries

    Non-electric can opener, utility knife

    Map of the area (for locating shelters)

    Cash or traveler's checks, change

    Fire extinguisher: small canister, ABC type

    Tube tent

    Pliers

    Tape

    Compass

    Matches in waterproof container

    Aluminum foil

    Plastic storage containers

    Signal flare Paper, pencil

    Needles, thread

    Medicine dropper

    Shut-off wrench, to turn off household gas and water

    Whistle

    Plastic sheeting

    Mess kits or paper cups, plates and plastic utensils

    Emergency preparedness manual

  Sanitation

    Toilet paper

    Soap, liquid detergent

    Feminine hygiene supplies

    Personal hygiene items

    Plastic garbage bags, ties (for personal sanitation uses)

    Plastic bucket with tight lid

    Disinfectant

    Household chlorine bleach


    Notes:

		   5.  Clothing and Bedding


  Your disaster supply kit should include at least one complete change
  of clothing and footwear per person.  Items to include are:

    Sturdy shoes or work boots

    Rain gear Blankets or sleeping bags

    Hat and gloves

    Thermal underwear

    Sunglasses




		      6.  Special Items


  Family members may have special needs.  Other items you may add to
  your kit include:

  For Babies:

    Formula

    Diapers

    Bottles

    Powdered milk

    Medications

  For Adults:

    Heart and high blood pressure medication

    Insulin

    Prescription drugs

    Denture needs

    Contact lenses and supplies

    Extra pair of eye glasses Entertainment

    Games and books

  Important Family Documents:

  Keep these in a waterproof, portable container.

    Wills, insurance policies, contracts, deeds, stocks and bonds

    Passports, social security cards, immunization records

    Bank account numbers

    Credit card account numbers and companies

    Inventory of valuable goods, important telephone numbers

    Family records (birth, marriage, death certificates)


	       4-Step Family Preparedness Plan



  In addition to your family disaster supply kit, develop a family
  preparedness plan.  This plan needs to be known to all family
  members.  A basic preparedness plan has four steps:
    Do your homework (page 7) Create a family disaster plan (page 8)
    Make a checklist and periodically update it (page 8) Practice and
    maintain your plan (page 9)



		     1.  Do your homework


  Find out what disasters could happen in your area.  Contact your
  local emergency management or civil defense office and American Red
  Cross chapter to:

    Learn which disasters are possible where you live and how these
    disasters might affect your family.

    Request information on how to prepare and respond to each
    potential disaster.

    Learn about your community's warning signals, what they sound like,
    what they mean and what actions you should take when they are activated.
    Learn about local, state or federal assistance plans.

    Find out about the emergency response plan for your workplace, your
    children's school or day-care center, as well as other places where
    your family spends time.

    Develop a list of important telephone numbers (doctor, work, school,
    relatives) and keep it in a prominent place in your home.

    Ask about animal care.  Pets may not be allowed inside shelters
    because of health regulations.


    Notes:
	      2.  Create a family disaster plan


  Discuss with your family the need to prepare for disaster.  Explain
  the danger of fire, severe weather (tornadoes, hurricanes) and floods
  to children.  Develop a plan to share responsibilities and how to
  work together as a team.

    Discuss the types of disasters that are
       most likely to occur and how to respond.

    Establish meeting places inside and
       outside your home, as well as outside the neighborhood.  Make
       sure everyone knows when and how to contact each other if
       separated.  Decide on the best escape routes from
       your home.  Identify two ways out of each room.

    Plan how to take care of your pets.

    Establish a family contact out-of-town
       (friend or relative).  Call this person after the disaster to
       let them know where you are and if you are okay.  Make sure
       everyone knows the contact's phone number.

    Learn what to do if you are advised to evacuate.



       3.  Make a checklist and periodically update it


    Post emergency telephone numbers by phones (fire, police, ambulance,
     etc.).

    Teach your children how and when to call 911 or your local EMS
    number for help.

    Show each family member how to turn off the water, gas and
    electricity at the main valves or switches.

    Teach each family member how to use a fire extinguisher (ABC type)
    and have a central place to keep it.  Check it each year.

    Install smoke detectors on each level of your home, especially near
     bedrooms.  Conduct a home hazard hunt.

    Stock emergency supplies and assemble a disaster supply kit.

    Learn basic first aid.  At the very least, each family member should
    know CPR, how to help someone who is choking and first aid for
    severe bleeding and shock.  The Red Cross offers basic training of
    this nature.

    Identify safe places in your home to go for each type of disaster.

    Check to be sure you have adequate insurance coverage.


    Notes:
	     4.  Practice and maintain your plan


    Test children's knowledge of the plan every 6 months so they remember
    what to do.

    Conduct fire and emergency evacuation drills.  Replace stored water
    and food every 6 months.

    Test your smoke detectors monthly and change the batteries once a year.


   And...  In conjunction with the preparedness plan, working with
  neighbors can save lives and property.  Meet with neighbors to plan
  how the neighborhood could work together after a disaster until help
  arrives.  Members of a neighborhood organization, such as a home
  association or crime watch group, can introduce disaster preparedness
  as a new activity.

  Know your neighbors' special skills (medical, technical) and consider
  how to help neighbors who have special needs, such as disabled and
  elderly persons.  Make plans for child care in case parents can't get
  home.


  Notes:

	       Preparing Children for Disaster


  As you develop your preparedness plan, include children in the
  planning process.  Teach your children how to recognize danger
  signals.  Make sure they know what smoke detectors and other alarms
  sound like.  Make sure they know how and when to call for help.  If
  you live in a 9-1-1 service area, tell your child to call 9-1-1.  If
  not, check your telephone directory for the number.  Keep all
  emergency numbers posted by the phone.  Help your children to
  memorize important family information.  They should memorize their
  family name, phone number and address.  They also should know where
  to meet in case of an emergency.  If children are not old enough to
  memorize the information, they should carry a small index card to
  give to an adult or babysitter that lists the emergency information.



      Special Preparations for People with Disabilities


  People with disabilities may need to take additional steps to prepare
  for disaster.  If you are disabled or know someone who is, the
  following precautions should be taken.

    Ask about special assistance that may be
       available to you in an emergency.  Many communities ask people
       with disabilities to register, usually with the fire department
       or emergency management office, so needed help can be provided
       quickly in an emergency.

    If you currently use a personal care
       attendant obtained from an agency, check to see if the agency
       has special provisions for emergencies (e.g.  providing services
       at another location should an evacuation be ordered).

    Determine what you will need to do for
       each type of emergency.  For example, most people head for a
       basement when there is a tornado warning, but most basements are
       not wheelchair accessible.  Determine in advance what your
       alternative shelter will be and how you will get there.  Learn
       what to do in case of power outages and personal injuries.  Know
       how to connect or start a back-up power supply for essential
       medical equipment.

    If you or someone in your household
       uses a wheelchair, make more than one exit from your home
       wheelchair accessible in case the primary exit is blocked.

    Consider getting a medic alert system
       that will allow you to call for help if you are immobilized in
       an emergency.

    Store back-up equipment, such as a
       manual wheelchair, at a neighbor's home, school or your
       workplace.

    Avoid possible hazards by fastening
       shelves to the wall and placing large, heavy objects on the
       lower shelves or near the wall.   Also hang pictures or mirrors
       away from beds.  Bolt large pictures or mirrors to the wall.
       Secure water heaters by strapping them to a nearby wall.


	Special Preparations for the Hearing Impaired


  Deaf or hearing impaired individuals will have a more difficult time
  communicating after a disaster.  People may not realize you can't
  hear warning signals and instructions, and may leave you behind.  If
  there is a power failure, your teletypewriter will be useless, and
  communicating in the dark will require a flashlight.  To avoid
  potential problems you should:

    Make sure you have a flashlight, pad and
       pencil by your bed at home.  Ask a neighbor to be your source of
       information as it comes over the radio.

    Remind co-workers that you can't hear an evacuation order.

    If you are trapped in a room, knock on the door or hit objects
    together to let others know you are there.



	Special Preparations for the Visually Impaired


  Blind or visually impaired individuals will have a difficult time
  after a disaster if surroundings have been greatly disrupted.  In
  addition, seeing eye dogs may be too frightened or injured to be
  reliable.  Have an extra cane at home and work, even if you have a
  seeing eye dog.  If you are trapped, make noise to alert others.
  Also keep in mind that, if electricity fails, blind people can assist
  sighted people and potentially save lives.


    Notes:
		    Evacuation Procedures




    Evacuations during a disaster are a common event.  Evacuation
       procedures vary by location and disaster.  Contact your local
       emergency management or civil defense office for specific
       evacuation plans.

    The amount of time you will have to evacuate depends on the
    disaster.  Some disasters, such as hurricanes, may allow several days to
       prepare.  Hazardous materials accidents may only allow moments
       to leave.  This means that preparation is essential since there
       may not be time to collect the basic necessities.

    Evacuations can last for several days.  During this time you may be
       responsible for part or all of your own food, clothing and other
       supplies.

    Preparing for Evacuation (page 13)

    Evacuating (page 14)

    Returning Home After the Disaster (page 15)


  Notes:

		   Preparing for Evacuation


  Advance planning will make evacuation procedures easier.  First, you
  should have your family disaster supply kit and plan ready.
  Additional steps that can aid preparedness include:

  1. Review possible evacuation procedures with your family.

    Ask a friend or relative outside your area to be the check-in
    contact so that everyone in the family can call that person
    to say they are safe.

    Find out where children will be sent if they are in school when
    an evacuation is announced.

  2. Plan now where you would go if you had to evacuate.

    Consider the homes of relatives or friends who live nearby, but
    outside the area of potential disaster.  Contact the local emergency
       management office for community evacuation plans.  Review public
       information to identify reception areas and shelter areas.

  3. Keep fuel in your car's gas tank at all times.  During emergencies,
     filling stations may be closed.  Never store extra fuel in the garage.

  4. If you do not have a car or other vehicle, make transportation
     arrangements with friends, neighbors or your local emergency
     management office.

  5. Know where and how to shut off electricity, gas and water at main
     switches and valves.  Make sure you have the tools you need to do
     this (usually pipe and crescent or adjustable wrenches).  Check
     with your local utilities for instructions.


  Notes:

			  Evacuating


  When you are told to evacuate there are four steps you need to take:

  1. If there is time, secure your house.

	 Unplug appliances.

	 In a flood hazard area, store propane tanks or secure them
         safely to the structure.

	 Turn off the main water valve.

	 Take any actions needed to prevent damage to water pipes by
         freezing weather, if this is a threat.  Securely close and
         lock all doors, windows and garage.

  2.      Follow recommended evacuation routes.  Do not take shortcuts,
          they may be blocked.

  3.      Listen to the radio for emergency shelter information.

  4.      Carry your family disaster supply kit.


    Notes:
	      Returning Home After the Disaster


  1.      Do not return until the local authorities say it is safe.

  2.      Continue listening to the radio for information and instructions.

  3.      Use extreme caution when entering or working in buildings
          structures may have been damaged or weakened.  Watch for
          poisonous snakes in flooded structures and debris.

  4.      Do not take lanterns, torches or any kind of flame into a damaged
          building.  There may be leaking gas or other flammable materials
          present.  Use battery-operated flashlights for light.  If you
          suspect a gas leak, do not use any kind of light.  The light
          itself could cause an explosion.

  5.      If you smell leaking gas, turn off the main gas valve at the meter.
          If you can open windows safely, do so.

	 Do not turn on lights they can produce sparks that may ignite the gas.          Leave the house immediately and notify the gas company or the
         fire department.

	 Do not reenter the house until an
	    authorized person tells you it is safe to do so.

  6.      Notify the power company or fire
	    department if you see fallen or damaged electrical wires.

  7.      If any of your appliances are wet, turn
	    off the main electrical power switch in your home before
	    you unplug them.  Dry out appliances, wall switches and
	    sockets before you plug them in again.  Call utility
	    companies for assistance.

  8.      Check food and water supplies for
	    contamination and spoilage before using them.

  9.      Wear sturdy shoes when walking through broken glass or debris,
          and use heavy gloves when removing debris.

  10.     After the emergency is over, telephone your family and friends
          to tell them you are safe.


  Notes:

		    When Disaster Strikes

  Hopefully you will never have to experience disaster.  When it does
  happen, however, try to remain calm and patient and put your family
  preparedness plan into action.  You should follow the following
  steps:

	 Retrieve your disaster supply kit.

	 Wear protective clothing and sturdy shoes.

	 Confine or secure pets to protect them.

    Go to the safe place in your home you identified and stay there
    until well after the disaster is over.

	 Listen to your battery-powered radio for news and
	 instructions.

	 Evacuate, if advised to do so.



	   The Role of Government After a Disaster


  After a preliminary damage assessment report has been completed, the
  governor of a state can request a major disaster or emergency
  declaration from the president.

  Declaration of an Emergency.  The president can issue a Declaration
  of Emergency to supplement the state and local effort to save lives
  and protect property.  The president can act only after a state
  governor has requested a Declaration of an Emergency be issued.
  Total assistance provided in any given emergency declaration may not
  exceed $5 million.  Declaration of a Major Disaster.  A major
  disaster declaration may be requested by the governor to the
  president after a natural catastrophe occurs.  Assistance is offered
  to both the public and private sectors.  With the declaration, the
  Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) has the authority to
  engage the services of 12 federal departments, two agencies, one
  commission, one corporation and one authority offering 97 different
  Federal assistance programs.  These 97 programs provide many
  different services to help people and state and local governments
  deal with recovery from a disaster.  A listing of the main agencies
  that provide assistance can be found in General Family Preparedness,
  Insurance and Resources After a Disaster.


	     Emotional Recovery After a Disaster



  In addition to the physical damage a disaster brings, stress and
  emotional disequilibrium need to be addressed by victims.  Steps you
  can take to reduce the effects of a disaster include:

    Be extra patient.

    Keep in mind that other people may have a different viewpoint about
    what should be top priority.

    Realize that it will take time to restore things, both physically
    and emotionally.

    Try to keep your family diet as nutritious as possible.

    Focus on the big picture instead of the little details.  This will
    give you a sense of completeness.

    Talk with friends, family and clergy.  A support network is
    essential in a disaster situation.

    Watch for the tendency to resort to bad habits when you are under
    stress.

  If you are dealing with disaster victims, realize that it's natural
  for them to express disbelief, sadness, anger, anxiety and
  depression.  Also realize that these emotions and moods can change
  unexpectedly.



  Notes:


	    Helping Children Cope After a Disaster


  Children may require special attention after experiencing a
  disaster.  Four common fears children have are death, darkness,
  animals and abandonment.  In a disaster children may experience any
  or all of these.  You should encourage children to talk about what
  they are feeling and to express this through play, drawing or
  painting.

  A child's reaction to a disaster may vary depending on age, maturity
  and previous experience.  In all cases it is important to acknowledge
  what happened and take time to talk with children about their fears.

  Some behaviors you may find children exhibiting after a disaster
  include:

    Being upset at the loss of a favorite toy, blanket, teddy bear, etc.

    Hitting, throwing or kicking to show their anger and frustration.

    Fear of the disaster coming again.

    Fear of being left alone or sleeping alone. They may want to sleep
    with another person.

    Behaving as they did when they were younger, including wetting
    the bed, sucking their thumb, wanting to be held, etc.

    Exhibiting symptoms of illness such as nausea, fever, headaches,
    not wanting to eat, etc.

    Becoming quiet and withdrawn.  Becoming easily upset.

    Feeling that they caused the disaster in some way.

    Feeling neglected by parents who are busy cleaning up or rebuilding.

    Refusing to go to school or to be out of the parent's sight.

  Parents and other adults can help children come to terms with their
  feelings in several ways.

    Let children know you love them and they can count on you.  
    Reassure them that they are not responsible for what occurred.

    Talk with your children about your own feelings.

    Give simple, accurate answers to children's questions.

    Hold them.  Close contact assures children you are there for
    them and will not abandon them.

    Let children grieve for a lost toy or blanket that was special
    to them.  It will help them cope with their feelings.

    Provide play experiences to relieve stress.

    Repeat assurances and information as often as you need to; do not
    stop responding.

    Spend extra time putting children to bed at night.

    Listen to what children say.  Repeat their words to clarify what
    they are feeling.  If additional help is needed for adults or
       children, contact a community resource such as a counseling
       center, minister or mental health agency.


  Notes:

			 Food Safety




  Food safety precautions can make an important difference after a
  disaster occurs.  Food can become contaminated as a result of fire,
  flood and wind related exposure.  It also may spoil or become unsafe
  after a power outage.





	      Precautions Against Power Outages


  If your area comes under an advisory that may lead to prolonged power
  outages (hurricanes, prolonged flooding, etc.) take these steps to
  help keep your food safe:

    Turn your refrigerator and freezer to the coldest setting.  This
    will help the food stay frozen.  Purchase a 50-pound block of dry ice.
       This will keep food in a full 18 cubic foot freezer safe for 2
       days.  Wrap it in brown paper for longer storage.  Separate it
       from direct food contact with a piece of cardboard.

    Fill partially filled freezers with crumpled newspaper to reduce
    air currents which will dissipate dry ice.



		     After a Power Outage


  If you should lose power, the emergency food supplies in your family
  disaster supply kit will be safe.  Food in the refrigerator and
  freezer may be in trouble.

  Generally, food in a refrigerator will be safe if the power is not
  out longer than a few hours and the temperature has been at 40F or below.  Food in a full, free-standing freezer should be safe for about 2 days if the temperature was at 0F or below.  Food in a half-full freezer should be safe for about 1 day if the temperature was at 0F or below.  To prolong the life of your food the following measures should be taken.
    Group meat and poultry to one side, or
       on a tray, so their juices won't contaminate other foods if they
       begin to thaw.

    Be wary of using meat, poultry and
       foods containing milk, cream, sour cream or soft cheese.

    Don't rely on odor or appearance of
       food.  If perishable food has been at room temperature for more
       than 2 hours, discard it.

		      (continued next page) After a Power Outage
			 (continued)


  In emergency conditions, the following foods should keep at room
  temperature (above 40F) a few days.  Discard anything that turns moldy or has an unusual odor or look.

    Butter, margarine

    Fresh fruits and vegetables

    Dried fruits and coconut

    Opened jars of salad dressing, peanut
       butter, jelly, relish, taco sauce, barbecue sauce, mustard,
       catsup, olives

    Hard and processed cheeses

    Fruit juices

    Fresh herbs and spices

    Flour and nuts

     Fruit pies

    Bread, rolls, cakes and muffins Discard the following foods if kept
  for more than 2 hours above 40F.

    Raw or cooked meat, poultry and
       seafood

    Milk, cream, yogurt, soft cheese

    Cooked pasta, pasta salads

    Custard, chiffon or cheese pies

    Fresh eggs, egg substitutes

    Meat topped pizzas, lunchmeats

    Casseroles, stews or soups

    Mayonnaise and tartar sauce

    Refrigerator and cookie doughs

    Cream filled pastries

  Refreeze thawed foods that still contain ice crystals or feel cold.



	    Tornado and Wind Related Contamination


  If you live in an area that has sustained tornado or wind damage,
  take the following measures.

    Drink only approved or chlorinated
       water.

    Consider all water from wells, cisterns
       and other delivery systems in the disaster area unsafe until
       tested.  Check foods and discard any containing
       particles of glass or slivers of other debris.

    Discard canned foods with broken
       seams.


  Notes:

		    Flooded Food Recovery


  Flood waters may carry contaminants such as silt, raw sewage or
  chemical waste.  Disease bacteria in the water also can contaminate
  any food it touches.  If you have experienced flood conditions,
  follow these guidelines:
    Save undamaged commercially canned
       foods (except as noted later).  Do not use home-canned foods
    that have
       been covered with flood water.  Commercial glass jars of food
    are safe if
       the containers are sanitized (except as noted later).  Remove
    the labels from jars and cans and
       mark the contents on can or jar lid with indelible ink.  Paper
       can harbor dangerous bacteria.  To sanitize jars, cans, dishes
  and glassware, wash in a strong detergent solution with a scrub
  brush.  After washing, immerse them in a solution of 2 teaspoons
  chlorine bleach per gallon of room temperature water.  Air dry before
  using.  If needed, clean empty glass also may be sanitized by boiling
  in water for 10 minutes.  To sanitize metal pans and utensils, boil
  in water for 10 minutes.  Discard wooden and plastic utensils, baby
  nipples, pacifiers and any other porous nonfood items that are used
  with food.  Discard the following foods:

    Meat, poultry, fish and eggs

    Fresh produce

    Preserves sealed with paraffin

    Unopened jars with waxed cardboard
       seals such as mayonnaise and salad dressing

    All foods in cardboard boxes, paper, foil,
       cellophane or cloth

    Spices, seasonings and extracts

    Home-canned foods

    Opened containers and packages

    Flour, grain, sugar, coffee and other
       staples in canisters

    Dented, leaking, bulging or rusted cans


    Notes:
		   Food Safety After a Fire


  Food that has been exposed to fire can be affected by three factors:

     the heat of the fire smoke fumes the chemicals used to fight the
     fire

  Food in cans or jars that have been close to the heat of the fire may
  appear to be unharmed, but the heat from the fire can activate food
  spoilage bacteria, leaving them inedible.

  Burning materials may release toxic fumes that contaminate food.
  Discard any type of food stored in permeable packaging such as
  cardboard or plastic wrap.  Discard raw food outside the
  refrigerator.  Food in refrigerators and freezers also may be
  contaminated.  The seal on these appliances is not completely
  airtight.  Discard any food with an off-flavor or smell.  The
  chemicals used to fight fires contain toxic material that can
  contaminate food and cookware.  Throw away foods exposed to the
  chemicals.  Chemicals cannot be washed off the food.  This includes
  foods stored at room temperature, as well as foods stored in
  permeable containers such as cardboard and screw-topped jars and
  bottles.

  Sanitize canned goods and cookware in the same method as recommended
  for flooded foods.


    Notes:
	   Insurance and Resources After a Disaster



  Most homeowner policies offer coverage for losses due to natural
  disasters except flooding.  If you are unsure what your policy
  covers, check it before a disaster happens.  Contact your agent for
  clarification if you are still unsure.  In general most insurance
  policies cover:

    Your house, rental units that are part of the building and any
    attachments to the building,
       such as the garage.

    Structures on the grounds that are not attached to the house, such
    as a pool, gazebo, tool
       shed, etc.  This also includes the lawn, trees and shrubs on the
       property.

    Vacant land you own or rent, with the exception of farmland.

    Cemetery plots or burial vaults you may own.

    Personal possessions, including those of members of your household
    and guests, and
       contents of the house.  This does not include the possessions of
       tenants in your home.

    Any items that have been loaned to you, or given for safe keeping.

    Living expense if your home is unlivable due to damage.

    Rental payments, if you rent one part of your house but it is
    unlivable due to damage.

    Responsibility for unauthorized use of your credit cards, forged
    checks or counterfeit
       currency accepted in good faith.

    Settlement, medical expenses and court costs brought against you
    for bodily injury of
       others or damage to the property of others.



  Most homeowner policies DO NOT cover loss due to flooding.  You
  should check to see if your community participates in the National
  Flood Insurance Program.


		     (continued on next page)
  If you need financial assistance, programs are available.  Programs
  include:


     The American Red Cross...offers emergency assistance for
     groceries, new clothes,
       medical needs and immediate building repairs.


     Farmers Home Administration(FmHA)...offers agricultural loans only
     when other
       credit is not available.  Qualifying farmers can get short-,
       medium- or long-term loans with moderate interest.


     Federal Crop Insurance Corporation (FCIC)...Farmers can insure
     crops for 50, 65 or
       75 percent of yield.  Unavoidable losses due to any adverse
       weather conditions including drought, excessive moisture, hail,
       wind, hurricanes, tornadoes and lightning are covered.
       Unavoidable losses due to insect infestations, plant diseases,
       floods, fires and earthquakes also are covered.  You must have
       this insurance prior to the disaster.


     Small Business Administration (SBA)...offers medium- and long-term
     loans for
       rebuilding non-farm homes and small businesses with moderate
       interest rates.


     Commercial and federal land banks offer loans for home repair and
     improvement, land,
       equipment and livestock.  Insurance companies offer long-term
       loans at relatively high interest for the same things.
       Assistance also may be available through a variety of state or
       local agencies and volunteer groups.  Listen to your battery
       operated radio after a disaster for information on disaster
       relief services and locations.



  Non-financial resources also are available to many disaster victims.
  Technical assistance is available from:


     The Agricultural Stabilization and Conservation Service
     (ASCS)...for information on
       livestock and wildlife feeding, production and conservation
       practices.


     The Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS)...offers
     technical assistance
       on animal and plant pests and diseases.


     Extension Service-USDA...offers information, educational material
     and advice on
       cleanup.


     The Food Safety Inspection Service (FSIS)...can be reached toll
     free at (800) 535-4555 for questions on the safe handling of meat
and poultry.


  Notes:

	     Special Post-Disaster Considerations



	       Restoring Flooded Water Systems


  1. Do not start submerged electric motors
       until they have been cleaned, dried and checked for safety.

    Disconnect the motor.  An ejector
       or jet pump motor may be a separate unit mounted on the pump, or
       the end bell of the motor may be part of the pump.  The separate
       motor unit can be disconnected and serviced easily.  With the
       second type, remove the pump and motor as a unit.  It is not
       necessary to remove the drop pipes.

    Take the motor to an electrical
       repair shop.  In the shop, the motor should be checked for any
       short circuits or grounding caused by moisture.  If the motor
       was submerged in mud and water, it should be thoroughly
       cleaned.  Windings should be dried in a drying oven.  The
       bearings should be lubricated before you use the motor again.

    Clean and dry electrical controls
       and pressure switches.  Check all wiring for short circuits.

  2. Pumps usually are damaged by sediment
       deposited in the bearings.  Clean pumps.  Check valves for silt
       and sand.  Remove all dirt and water from the gears in the gear
       box and replace the lubricant with fresh oil.

    Submersible pumps.  The bearings
       on water-lubricated pumps will not be damaged by flood waters,
       since these bearings
	  are constantly submerged in water.
	    As soon as possible, flush clean water down the casing to
	    remove sediment and silt.  Then disinfect the well.

    Centrifugal pumps.  Many
       centrifugal pumps contain two sets of oil-lubricated bearings
       along the drive shaft between the motor and the pump.  If the
       pump has been flooded, dismantle the container bracket and
       remove the bearings.

    Clean the bearings, or install new
       bearings if the old ones are worn out.

    Close-coupled centrifugal pumps
       contain no bearings, so there is little chance of flood damage
       except to the electric motor.

  3. Injector-type pumps.  These pumps
       usually contain watertight packing at the ground surface, with
       sealed impellers.  Flood waters probably will not damage this
       type of pump.

  4. The storage tank and piping should be
       all right unless muddy water was pumped through it.  If tank is
       contaminated, disinfect the entire system with a strong chlorine
       solution.  Use 1 quart household laundry bleach or check with
       local health department for recommended solution strength.

     Open all faucets while the system is
       being filled.  Do not close the spigot until a definite smell of
       chlorine is evident.  Do not use the system for

		      (continued next page) Restoring Flooded Water
	       Systems
			 (continued)


     24 hours.  Then start the pump and run
       water from all faucets until the chlorine odor is gone.

  5. Wells probably will not be damaged
       structurally from floods, but they may be contaminated.  Have
       your well tested by health officials before you use the water.

  6. If the well is located in a low spot, it
       may be contaminated with silt from floodwaters draining into
       it.  If so, the well and entire water system should be
       disinfected.  To disinfect the well system:

    Pump the well until water is clear.

    Pour a solution of 1 quart liquid
       laundry bleach (Clorox , Purex , Hilex  or a similar
       hypochlorite solution) mixed in 3 gallons of water into the well
       casing.  Leave it there at least 4 hours, or preferably
       overnight.

    Pump the chlorinated water into the
       piping system, and leave it there for at least 2 hours or even
       overnight.

    The next day, pump and flush out
       the system until the taste and odor of chlorine are no longer
       apparent.  Two days after you have disinfected the water system
       take a sample of water according to recommended procedures and
       have it tested for purity.  Boil or treat all drinking water
       until a water test indicates that water is safe for all
       purposes.  7. Do not drink water from a flooded
       cistern until you disinfect the cistern and the entire piping
       system.  To disinfect the cistern:

	 Use an auxiliary pump to remove
	    the water and empty the cistern.  Do not pump water through
	    the pipeline distribution system.

	 Wash down the walls and ceiling
	    with clean water, and pump out the dirty water with an
	    auxiliary pump.

    Check the cistern walls, ceiling and
       floor for cracks where groundwater could come in.

	 Disinfect the interior with a
	    solution of 1 quart laundry bleach in 3 gallons of water.
	    Be sure the bleach contains no soap.  Apply the chlorine
	    solution with a sprayer or scrub with a stiff broom.

     Swab or pump out the disinfecting
       solution that collects in the bottom of the cistern.

	 Leave the chlorine solution in the
	    pipes for at least 2 hours (overnight if possible) before
	    you drain them.

	 Fill the cistern with water for use.
	    This water will have a chlorine taste for awhile, but it
	    will be safe for all purposes.

  8. Regenerate water softeners before you
       use them.  Use clean chlorinated water to backwash the
       filterbed.


		      Disinfecting Wells


  Disinfect flooded wells before they are used as a source of drinking
  water.  To disinfect a well:

  1. Scrub the pumproom and wash all
       equipment, including piping, pump and pressure tank.

  2. Remove the well seal at the top of the
       casing.  Pour a solution of 1 quart laundry bleach and 3 gallons
       of water into the top of the well.  Pour the solution so it
       washes down the inside of the casing and the outside of the drop
     pipes.  In some wells you will need
       only to remove a plug from the seal to pour the solution into
       the well.

  3. Leave the solution in the well about 4
       hours.  Then pump it into the pressure tank and distribution
       system.

  4. Draw the chlorinated water into all
       piping by opening each faucet until the odor of chlorine is
       apparent.  Leave the chlorine in the piping at least 2 hours.
       Then run the water until the taste and odor are no longer
       objectionable.



		Disposing of Animal Carcasses


  1. Prompt and sanitary disposal of animal
       carcasses is necessary to protect the living animals in an area
       from disease.

  2. Search all pastures for dead animals as
       soon as possible.  Carcasses may have some commercial value, so
       send them to a rendering plant if possible.

  3. If rendering is impractical, dispose of
       the dead animals on the premises.  Use the following procedure:

    Immediately after finding a carcass,
       cover it with crude oil or kerosene to keep away dogs, buzzards
       and vermin.  Fat swine are the only animal
       carcasses that will burn satisfactorily.  Used railroad ties can
       be used as starters.

    Bury other carcasses.  Use power
       equipment if it is available.  Choose a site where subsurface
       drainage will not reach water supplies.

    Bury the carcasses at least 3 to 4
       feet deep so predatory animals won't be able to reach them.  If
       quicklime is available, cover carcasses with it before filling.
       Quicklime will hasten decomposition.


  Notes:

		     Additional Resources



  For further information on disaster preparedness or recovery, the
  following resources are suggested:


    Small Business Administration  1-800-827-5722


  Contact your local American Red Cross chapter or write to FEMA, P.O.
  Box 70274, Washington, D.C.  20024 for the following information:


    Your Family Disaster Supplies Kit.  Federal Emergency Management
    Agency brochure
       L-189 and American Red Cross brochure 4463, March 1992.


    Your Family Disaster Plan.  Federal Emergency Management Agency
    brochure L-191
       and American Red Cross brochure 4466, September 1991.


    Emergency Preparedness Checklist.  Federal Emergency Management
    Agency and
       American Red Cross brochure 44471, November 1991.


    Helping Children Cope with Disaster.  Federal Emergency Management
    Agency and
       American Red Cross brochure 4499, September 1992.


    Preparing for Emergencies: A Checklist for People with Mobility
    Problems.  Federal
       Emergency Management Agency brochure L-154(M) and American Red
       Cross brochure 4497, October 1992.


  The following are available from the Federal Emergency Management
  Agency:


    Preparedness for People with Disabilities.  Earthquake Hazard
    Reduction Series 9,
       FEMA 75.


    Are You Ready?  H-34, Item #8-0908.


    Notes:                        Drought


   Drought . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
      Water Conservation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Water
      Conservation at Home . . . . . . . . . . 31 Reading a Water Meter
      To Measure Leaks . . . . 34 Installing a Low-Flow Showerhead . .
      . . . . . 34 Installing Shower Flow Restrictors . . . . . . 34
      Installing Toilet Dams . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Water Saving
      Steps When Remodeling . . . . . . 36 Making Repairs To Toilets To
      Stop Water Loss . 36 Repairing Faucet Leaks . . . . . . . . . . .
      . 37 Adding New Landscape Or Redesigning The Yard . 39 Landscape
      Water Conservation . . . . . . . . . 40 Watering Lawns and Plants
      During a Drought . . 44 Special Considerations for Agricultural
      Producers 45
	 Developing a Crop Water Management Plan . . 45 Crop Water
	 Requirements and Water Use Efficiencies 46 Developing and
	 Improving Vegetative Cover . 48 Maintaining Vegetative Cover.
	 . . . . . . . 49 Managing Salinity . . . . . . . . . . . . .
	 50




			   Drought



		      Water Conservation

  Water conservation is defined as the efficient use of water so that
  unnecessary or wasteful uses are eliminated.  In many areas, more
  groundwater is drawn out of the aquifers each year than is recharged
  through rainfall and stream flow.  As a result, groundwater levels
  have dropped dramatically.  Demand for water from a state's streams
  and reservoirs may rapidly approach the available long-term supply.
  Across many states, many communities are regularly required to limit
  water use at some time during the year.

  While some additional water supplies can be developed by constructing
  new reservoirs, in many locations the demand for water will still
  equal or exceed the available long-term supply.  For these towns and
  cities, water conservation can make the difference between adequate
  supplies and shortages.  Importantly, the way water is used and, in
  some instances, wasted must be rethought.

  This section explains easy ways that water can be conserved and money
  can be saved at the same time.  Useful information is also provided
  on how to measure home water use, how simple repairs can be made, and
  how water-saving devices are installed.  In addition to the measures
  found in this section, also refer to the General Family Preparedness
  section found at the beginning of this handbook.





		  Water Conservation at Home


  There are dozens of ways to conserve water and save money around the
  home.  As a starting point, seven of the easiest ways to reduce water
  use at home are listed below.  These should be part of your everyday
  routine, not just precautionary measures in times of drought.

  1. Install a water-saving showerhead.

    An effective water-saving
       showerhead should have a flow rate of 3 gallons or less a
       minute.  The standard showerhead uses 5 to 10 gallons a minute.
       Therefore, a showerhead using only 2 gallons a minute can save as much as 75 gallons of water during a normal 10-minute shower.

    To determine whether a low-flow
       showerhead needs to be installed, check the flow rate of the
       current showerhead by using the water meter or by putting a
       gallon container under the showerhead while the water is on and
       measuring the time it takes to fill the container at the usual
       shower setting.  If it fills in less than 20 seconds, the flow
       is greater than 3 gallons per minute.

    Low-flow showerheads can be
       purchased at most department, hardware and plumbing stores.

    Models costing from under $3 are
       available.  A showerhead can usually be installed in 10
       minutes.

  2. Place displacement devices in the
       toilet.

     Three types of displacement devices can
       be used in toilets, but they should
	  not be used in newer, low-water
	    use toilets which use less than 3 gallons per flush.

    To determine the capacity of the
       toilet tank, either turn off the water supply valve to the
       toilet (usually located on the pipe behind the toilet) or hold
       the float ball up so that the tank does not refill, and flush
       the toilet.  Measure the capacity of the tank by filling it to
       the normal level with a gallon container.

    Toilet dams can be installed in
       toilet tanks to reduce the amount of water used, typically
       saving  to 2 gallons per flush.  Toilet dams are available from many utilities or from most plumbing supply stores from under $5 per pair.

    A plastic bottle filled with water
       and weighted down with a few stones can accomplish the same
       purpose as dams.  It is important to place the bottle in the
       toilet tank where it will not interfere with the flushing
       mechanism.  A plastic bottle in the tank will save  to 1 gallon per flush.

    A toilet bag which is available free
       of charge from many utilities, can also be used in place of
       dams.  A displacement bag in the tank will save  to 1 gallon per flush.

    Bricks should not be used in the
       tank because small pieces can break off and permanently damage
       the plumbing system.

		      (continued next page) Water Conservation At Home
			 (continued)


  3. Install faucet aerators.

    The standard faucet flow rate is 5
       gallons a minute.  A low-flow aerator can reduce this flow to
       ap- proximately 2 gallons a minute while still providing adequate water for washing and rinsing.  Installing aerators on the kitchen sink and lavatory faucets will save hot water and cut water use by as much as 60 gallons a month for a typical family of four.

    Most aerators have either internal
       or external threads.  Before purchasing aerators, the location
       of the threads and the diameter of each spout should be
       determined.

    If the faucet already has a standard
       aerator (not a low-flow type), it can be removed and taken to
       the store to ensure that the correct low-flow size is
       purchased.  Aerators are available for less than a dollar from
       most stores that sell plumbing fixtures.

    If the kitchen has a portable
       dishwasher that must be connected to the faucet, do not install
       a low-flow aerator because the reduced flow may affect the
       performance of the dishwasher and result in dishes that are not
       properly cleaned.

  4. Change your water use patterns.

    The washing machine and dish-
       washer should only be used when fully loaded.  This practice can
       save at least two loads or approximately 60 gallons each week.
  5. Examine personal water use habits.

    Changing tooth brushing habits can
       save as much as 14 gallons of water a day.  Instead of allowing
       the tap water to run while brushing, use a cup, and run the tap
       just to rinse the toothbrush.

    The same method can be used to
       conserve additional water when shaving, washing hands or taking
       a shower.

    Use a pan when washing vegetables
       or rinsing dishes in the kitchen instead of running water
       constantly.

  6. Find water leaks.

     According to water utilities, leaks can
       easily account for 10 percent of a water bill and waste both
       water and energy if the source is a hot water tap.

    Toilet Leaks.  When a toilet leaks,
       water escapes from the tank into the bowl.  Toilets are
       notorious for hidden or silent leaks, because leaks are seldom
       noticed unless the toilet "runs" after each flush (which can
       waste 4 to 5 gallons a minute).

     To determine if the toilet is leaking, look
       first at the toilet bowl after the tank has stopped filling.  If
       water is still running into the bowl or if water can be heard
       running, the toilet is leaking.

     Often the toilet may have a "silent leak."
       To test for a silent leak, mix a few drops of food coloring or
       place a

		      (continued next page) Water Conservation At Home
			 (continued)


     dye capsule or tablet (available from
       many utilities and hardware stores) into the water in the toilet
       tank after the water has stopped filling and the tank is full.
       Do Not flush the toilet.  Wait for about 10 minutes, and if the
       dye or food coloring appears in the toilet bowl, the toilet has
       a silent leak.

     Leaks of this type usually are caused by
       a defective flush valve (flapper) ball or a corroded or scaled
       valve seat.  Replacement balls and valves, which can be
       installed in less than 30 minutes, are available from most
       hardware and plumbing stores for under $3.

    Faucet Leaks.  Faucet leaks are
       obvious.  However, periodically check seldom used taps in the
       basement or outside the house.  The cause of faucet leaks is
       frequently a worn washer that can be replaced with two or three
       hand tools.  Replacement washers can be purchased from most
       hardware and variety stores and cost only a few cents.

  7. Use efficient outside watering
       practices.

    Plant native vegetation.  Once
       established, which usually takes two years, these plants require
       less frequent watering.  Water grass only when needed.  If
       grass springs up after being walked on, it does not need
       watering.

    Soak grass long enough for water
       to reach the roots.  Water slowly and deeply.

    Water during the cool, early
       morning hours to minimize water loss by evaporation and
       discourage disease.  Do not water on windy days.

    Use sprinklers that produce
       droplets instead of mist and that have a low trajectory.  This
       type of sprinkler will lose less water by evaporation and be
       less affected by the wind.

    Use drip irrigation systems for
       shrubs, flowerbeds and other frequently watered areas.

    During the summer, keep the grass
       about 2 to 3 inches high.  This height shades the root system
       and holds soil moisture better than does a closely clipped
       lawn.

    Do not water streets and sidewalks.
       Adjust the hose or sprinkler until it waters just the grass or
       shrubs.  For flowerbeds, shrubs and trees, use drip or soaker
       systems.




    Notes:
	    Reading a Water Meter To Measure Leaks


  If your house has a water meter, the entire plumbing system can be
  checked for an undetected leak in five easy steps:

  1. Find the water meter.  (It may be
       outdoors or hidden in a dark corner of the basement.)

  2. Turn off all running water and
       water-using appliances, and do not flush the toilet.

  3. Read the dial (or dials) and record the
       reading.  4. After 15 to 20 minutes, re-check the
       meter.

  5. If no water has been turned on or used
       and the reading has changed, a leak is occurring.  The rate
       (gallons per minute) of the leak can be determined by dividing
       the number of gallons by the elapsed time.

  6. If the leak cannot be found and fixed, a
       plumber should be called.  Before calling, check all toilets for
       silent leaks.



	       Installing a Low-Flow Showerhead
		      To Conserve Water


  1. In some cases, a newly purchased low-flow showerhead may not fit
  on the
       existing pipe.  This is often the case when the neck ends in a
       ball joint.

     Most necks can be unscrewed and
       replaced, or an adaptor can be used.  Adapters or replacement
       necks are readily available in plumbing and most hardware
       stores.  2. When installing the new showerhead,
       teflon tape or pipe joint compound could be applied to the
       exposed threads of the new neck so that the joint will be sealed
       and provide a leakproof connection.

  3. If the shower neck has been on for a few
       years and the neck joint is too stiff to unscrew with moderate
       pressure, consider having a plumber replace it.



	      Installing Shower Flow Restrictors
		      to Conserve Water


    Restricting devices fit into the space
       between the showerhead and the shower neck.  These devices range
       from a simple washer with a small hole in it to small
       chrome-plated pressure compensating fittings.  While restrictors
    reduce water flow,
       low-flow showerheads produce a flow that is more satisfying to
       most individuals.


  Notes:

	   Installing Toilet Dams, Toilet Bags and
	      Plastic Bottles to Conserve Water


  Many of the toilets in homes today use from 5 to 7 gallons per
  flush.  Several effective retrofit devices are available that can
  reduce the volume of water used with each flush by 2 to 3 gallons.

  While these devices can be used in some of the low-flush toilets on
  the market today that use from 3 to 4 gallons per flush, they
  generally perform better when used in the older 5- to 7-gallon per
  flush models.

  The height of water in the toilet tank (not just the volume) causes
  the bowl to flush, so the purpose of displacement devices is to
  reduce the volume of water used in each flush without affecting water
  height in the tank.  The following three types of devices have proven
  to be effective.

  1. Toilet Dams:

    To install a dam, flex or bend the
       dam and insert it into the tank.

    The dam should fit tightly against
       the tank sides and bottom and should curve outward away from the
       plumbing fixtures in the tank.  Most tanks work best when a
       single dam is used.  2. Toilet Bags:

    Fill the bag with water, securely
       seal the top of the bag with the bag clamp and hang the bag in
       the tank by using the bag clip and hanger that are provided.

    Make sure the bag is located in the
       tank so it does not interfere with the operation of the toilet
       tank.

  3. Plastic Bottles:

    Fill a plastic bottle with water and
       weight down with a few stones, and place in the most open
       portion of the tank.  This will save as much water as is
       displaced by the bottle.

    Make sure the bottle does not
       interfere with the operation of the moving parts of the tank.

  Check all such devices periodically to ensure that they remain in
  place.


    Notes:
	    Water Saving Steps When Remodeling or
	      Replacing Fixtures and Appliances


  1. Hot Water Pipes.

     Where possible, insulate hot water pipes
       from the hot water heater to fixtures and appliances.  This will
       reduce the time between turning the water on and the time hot
       water comes out of the faucet and reaches a constant
       temperature.

  2. New or Replacement Fixtures and
       Appliances.

     Install low-water use fixtures when
       remodeling or replacing fixtures.

    Install toilets that use 3 gallons or
       less per flush.  Install low-flow showerheads that
       flow at 3 gallons or less per minute.

    Install water-saving dishwashing
       and clothes-washing machines.  Be sure to check the water
       efficiency of appliances when shopping for replacement
       appliances.

  3. Pools and Hot Tubs.

    Run the filter backwash onto the
       lawn rather than down the sewer.

    Purchase covers for hot tubs and
       pool to reduce evaporation losses.



	 Making Repairs To Toilets To Stop Water Loss


  Some types of toilet leaks are relatively easy to fix.  Other leaks
  may require the services of a plumber.  Several simple repair steps
  that can be done without contacting a plumber are listed below.

  1. If the water is too high in the toilet tank
       and is spilling into the overflow tube, the float can be
       adjusted by turning the adjustment screw or by very gently
       bending the float arm down so that the water shuts off at a
       level slightly below the top of the overflow tube.

     Ideally, the water level should be set so
       that it is about even with the fill line on the back of the
       toilet tank.

  2. A frequent problem that causes a toilet
       to leak is a worn flapper ball or a flapper ball that does not
       seat properly into the valve seat.  If the flapper ball is worn,
       it can be removed and replaced with a new
       flapper ball.

     When replacing a flapper ball, take care
       to note how the chain is adjusted before the old ball is
       removed.  Also, check the valve seat for scale or corrosion and
       clean if necessary.  If cleaning does not work, install a
       retrofit valve seat, available from most plumbing or hardware
       stores.

  3. If the handle needs to be jiggled to keep
       the toilet from "running," the guide-wire or the handle itself
       may be sticking.  If the handle is sticking, adjust the nut that
       secures it in the toilet tank.  If that does not work, replace
       the handle.

  4. If none of the preceding steps solve the
       problem, contact a plumber to repair the toilet.


		    Repairing Faucet Leaks


  1. Leaky faucets, which can develop even
       in new houses, are wasteful and a nuisance.  With a few simple
       tools, a leaky faucet can be repaired in less than an hour.

  2. Most water faucets in houses today are
       compression-type units in which a washer is compressed over a
       pipe opening when the faucet is closed, thus closing off the
       water.

     All compression-type faucets may not
       look alike, but all are similar in their operation and repair.

  3. The exact point where a leak appears on
       a faucet is a good clue to finding its cause:

    A spout drip is usually caused by a
       worn upper faucet washer or a corroded seat.

    Leaks at the stem result from a
       loose cap nut or worn cone or bonnet packing.

    A cap leak, or water oozing below
       the cap nut, indicates a worn bib or packing washer.

    A leak at the base of the faucet
       results from water seeping past a worn lower faucet washer.

  4. To repair a leaky compression type
       faucet, use the following steps:

    Turn off the water supply at the
       valve nearest the faucet.  Next, open the tap to drain the
       faucet.

    Remove the handle screw and lift
       handle off the spindle.  Unscrew the cap nut.  Use a
       protective cover of adhesive tape or a rag to avoid marring the
       finish.

    Unscrew the stem with finger
       pressure and lift it out.

    Remove the screw from the bottom
       end of the spindle.  Scrape away all worn washer parts.  Be
       careful not to damage the rim.  Install a new washer.  (Take
       either the old washer or the complete spindle unit with you to
       purchase the correct size and shape (flat or conical)
       replacement washer.) Double-check to make sure the replacement
       is like the worn washer.

    Check the seat (which is located
       down inside the faucet) to make sure it is not pitted or rough.
       If the seat is scarred or rough, use a seat-dressing kit to
       grind the seat to a smooth finish.

    A leak at the stem usually means
       that the packing inside the cap nut needs replacing.  To replace
       the packing, pry out the old packing washer with a screwdriver.
       If a washer is used, replace it with a new one.  If there is no
       washer, wrap the spindle tightly with "packing wicking."  String
       can be used if commercial wicking is not available.

    Reassemble the faucet.  Tighten the
       cap nut just enough to prevent leaking.  Screwing the nut down
       too tightly causes rapid wear on the stem.

		      (continued next page) Repairing Faucet Leaks
			 (continued)


    Turn the shutoff valves to the on
       position and check the faucet for leaks.

  5. A mixing faucet may look more
       complicated than a single faucet, but repairs are made in much
       the same way.

    Actually, a mixing faucet is two
       separate units with a single spout.

    Mixing faucets are used on sinks,
       bathtubs and laundry tubs.  Repairs must be made separately on
       each faucet unit.  Follow the same steps listed above,
       but remember to turn off the water before beginning work.

  6. Every washerless and single-lever faucet
       model is a little different.  When repairs are required,
       homeowners can purchase a repair kit for their model which
       includes instructions and the parts that generally will be
       worn.  By replacing all the parts at once, the faucet should
       function for several years without needing further repair.


    Notes:
	 Adding New Landscape Or Redesigning The Yard
		      To Conserve Water


  When planning to add new landscaping or to redesign existing
  landscaping, the following suggestions may help you to save 50
  percent or more of the water needed to maintain a traditional lawn.

  1. If hiring a landscape architect or
       gardener, select one who is experienced in Xeriscape, the
       conservation of water and energy through creative landscaping.

  2. Design the yard to reduce the grassed
       areas to only that amount which will actually be used for
       recreation and entertainment.  Front and side yards are most
       frequently just for show and are logical areas that can be
       completely or partially converted from lawns to native grasses,
       ground covers and shrubs.

  3. Use native grasses, ground covers,
       shrubs and trees.  Many beautiful varieties of native species
       can be used in landscaping and are preferable to imported
       species.

     The advantage of native species is that,
       once they are established (usually about 2 years), they do not
       need to be watered as frequently (about   to  as often), and they can survive a dry period without any watering.

  4. When installing an irrigation system for
       lawn, shrubs and trees, sprinkler heads for the lawn should be
       low-angle spray heads that sprinkle the grass without spraying
       the water high into the air or allowing the water to drift onto
       the sidewalks and streets.  The heads should produce droplets of
       water instead of a mist.  The preferable irrigation system for
       shrub beds and trees is a drip-type system.  There are several
       varieties, including soaker hoses, bubblers and "leaky pipe."

  If a sprinkler system is installed for shrubs, an upright pipe
  extension may be needed if low-angle spray heads are to be used.
  This is done to spray evenly without obstructions.

    Automatic controls will allow the
       proper watering time and minimize waste.

    Regular spacing between spray
       heads will provide uniform coverage.

     For more information, contact a
       licensed landscape irrigator or a reputable dealer.

  5. Shape the soil to protect against erosion
       and use conditioners to promote water penetration and
       retention.

    Shape the soil into earthen basins
       around all shrubs.

    If the original soil is rocky, shallow
       or a heavy clay, improve the soil by adding 2 to 4 inches of
       organic material or topsoil that is compatible with the soil
       type.

  6. Watering needs vary:

    Plants: During summer month,
       most plants will need about 1 inch of water every 5 to 7 days.

    Lawns: The frequency of watering
       depends on the type of grass.

		      (continued next page) Landscape Water
		 Conservation


  A water conscious landscape design can reduce water use for landscape
  maintenance by 50 percent or more and also reduce the amount of
  maintenance required.  Of equal importance, the natural beauty and
  function of the landscape also can be preserved by using adapted
  plant materials.

  1. By using plant materials adapted to
       specific areas, water needs for landscape maintenance can be
       reduced by more than 50 percent.

    Water conscious landscaping
       involves more than just using adapted plant materials it
       includes the use of other conservation techniques and
       practices.

    Water saving practices include the
       use of low pressure drip or trickle irrigation systems for
       watering trees, shrubs, gardens and individual plants or beds;
       the use of mulches around shrubs, beds and gardens to conserve
       water; the use of bark, rock or other landscape material in
       ground cover in areas difficult to water or in areas where
       plants are not needed; the use of vegetative groundcovers such
       as ivy, jasmine, liriope and vinca in small, isolated areas,
       sloping sites that are difficult to water and in heavily shaded
       sites.

  2. Water conscious landscape designs
       minimize intensively maintained lawn space.  Manicured lawn
       areas may be the focal point of the landscape, but they do not
       need to cover the entire area unless the lawn is used as a
       playground or sports field.  Highly maintained grass areas
       generally require more irrigation than any other component of
       the landscape.  On golf courses, for example, only the landing
       areas need to be intensively maintained.  Rough areas may have a
       more drought tolerant grass, taller mowing heights and a
       separate water system.

    Large open areas of the landscape
       where a grass cover is needed can be planted to low maintenance
       grasses such as buffalograss, centipede grass or bahiagrass.
       Native plants and wildflowers also can be allowed to develop in
       these areas.

    Such plantings require very little
       maintenance and no supplemental water once they become
       established.

  3. Proper site preparation will produce a
       more beautiful landscape and result in more efficient water
       utilization.

    Slopes, areas with shallow topsoil,
       compacted soils and deep sands are difficult sites to establish
       grass and are inefficient with respect to water use.

    Modifying or amending the sites
       before planting is more effective than waiting until problems
       develop.

		      (continued next page) Landscape Water
		 Conservation
			 (continued)


  4. As the foundation is the strength of a
       building, the seedbed is the support for a turf.  The seedbed
       refers to the few surface inches of soil that are modified prior
       to planting.

    Poor soil conditions result in
       continuous turf maintenance problems.

    To prepare a seedbed, first remove
       all debris such as large stones, wood or other trash that may
       have been left after construction.

    Next, the nature of the soil may
       need to be altered.  A sandy loam soil high in organic matter is
       best for turf.  If the original surface soil is a heavy clay or
       a fine sand, add organic matter to improve soil structure.  This
       organic material can be peat, compost, decomposed gin trash,
       rice hulls, bark or sawdust (preferably hardwood), leaf mold or
       similar material.  Thoroughly mix 1 inch of organic matter with
       the top 3 to 4 inches of soil to produce a uniform seedbed.

    This mixing can be done by
       repeated cultivation with a garden tiller or with a tractor and
       rotovator.

    When adding un-decomposed
       organic matter to the soil, also add 3 pounds of ammonium
       nitrate or 5 pounds of ammonium sulfate per 1,000 square feet to
       aid decomposition of the organic material.  Most soils are
    deficient in the
       major nutrients required for turf.  Sandy soils normally are
       deficient in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and lime.  In the
       blackland areas, nitrogen and phosphorus may not be adequate for
       good turf development.  Potassium in the soil may become
       deficient for turf growth when high amounts of nitrogen are used
       in areas not normally deficient in potassium.

    If possible, base rates and
       combinations of fertilizer nutrients on the results of soil
       tests.  In the absence of a soil test, apply a complete
       fertilizer to the surface of the seedbed.  Apply a fertilizer
       with a 1-2-1 (10-20-10, 6-12-6) or 1 (8-8-8) ratio at a rate to
       supply 1 pound of phosphorus per 1,000 square feet of lawn.

    Grade the seedbed to provide
       surface drainage away from structures, walks and driveways.  A
       fall of 6 inches for every 40 to 50 surface feet is adequate for
       drainage on sandy soils, provided no pockets or depressions
       exist.

    Clay or clay loam soils may require
       twice that slope to provide adequate surface drainage.  In some
       cases, subsurface drainage systems may be needed to remove
       excess water from poorly drained sites.

    If a considerable part of the
       landscape needs to be filled, use a loam or sandy loam soil.
       Repeated wetting of the filled site will help settle the soil.

		      (continued next page) Landscape Water
		 Conservation
			 (continued)


    The final step in seedbed prep-
       aration is raking the surface to remove large clods and stones.
       At the same time, fill depressions that have developed and level
       high spots.  Walks and driveways should be about 1 inch above
       the final soil surface.  The site is now ready to be seeded,
       sprigged or sodded.

  5. Conservation and reduced maintenance
       costs are enhanced by good cultural practices.  By some
       estimates as much as 50 percent of the water used for landscape
       maintenance is wasted through run-off and evaporation.

    Proper timing and method of
       application will reduce much of this water loss.

    The most important water conserv-
       ing practice is to water only when grasses show symptoms of
       water stress.

    Grasses wilt and begin to go off
       color when under moisture stress.  Shrubs and small trees wilt
       and begin to drop their leaves under moisture stress.  Ideally,
       water shrubs before the first sign of moisture stress.

    When water is needed, thoroughly
       wet the soil 4 to 6 inches deep by applying water slowly or at
       intervals to avoid run-off.  One inch of water, properly
       applied, will wet most soils 4 to 6 inches deep.  (One inch of
       water is equivalent to 62 gallons per 100 square feet.) During
    summer months an inch of
       water will meet most plant needs for 4 or 5 days.  But wait
       until the plants (or grass) show moisture stress before watering
       again.  Early morning dew, cooler temperatures or rain may
       extend the interval between irrigations several days.

  6. Mowing is the key to maintaining neat,
       attractive turf areas.  Low maintenance grasses such as
       buffalograss require less mowing than bermudagrass or St.
       Augustine.  But regular mowing will improve the density and
       uniformity of all turf areas.

    During the growing season, weekly
       mowing is ideal for lawn areas.  When mowed weekly, there is
       seldom a need to pick up grass clippings.  The clippings break
       down rapidly in the lawn and recycle plant nutrients.  When
       clippings are picked up, they can be composted or used for mulch
       in gardens.

    During hot, dry conditions raise
       mowing heights to reduce water needs.  Grass mowed at 2 to 3
       inches maintains a deeper root system than grass mowed at 1
       inch.  Supplemental water needs are reduced with more effective
       use of water in the soil by deep rooted grasses.  Mow St.
       Augustine, bluegrass and tall fescue lawns at 3 inches during
       drought conditions.  Do not mow bermudagrass and zoysia higher
       than 2 inches.



		      (continued next page) Landscape Water
		 Conservation
			 (continued)


  7. Thatch, the organic layer between the
       soil and the green leaves, can slow water movement into the soil
       and cause excess run-off.

    Thatch accumulation results from
       heavy fertilization, improper mowing practices, over watering
       and frequent pesticide use.

    Aeration and thatch removal
       increase water penetration and reduce run-off.  Under some
       conditions wetting agents (surfactants) improve water
       penetration in a heavily thatched lawn.

    Water movement into the root zone
       is even more difficult where compaction develops.  Aeration of
       compacted soils once or twice a year helps break up the
       compacted layer and increases water penetration.  Aeration also
       reduces run-off from sloping sites.  8. In soils containing high
  levels of sodium
       salts, gypsum can aid water penetration.  Soil test information
       available through county Extension agents can reveal the
       presence of high levels of sodium.  Like the other three factors
       affecting water use, the quality of the water used can influence
       the amount of water needed to keep a turf healthy.

    Where salt is a problem, it is
       important to thoroughly wet the soil during each application.
       Light, frequent applications of water high in salts result in an
       accumulation of salts near the surface.  Thorough watering helps
       move the salts below the root zone of grasses.


    Notes:
	  Watering Lawns and Plants During a Drought


  1. If water is rationed during a drought,
       give priority to shrubs that are more expensive and harder to
       replace than grass and annual plants.  2. During a severe
  drought when outside
       watering is prohibited, water plants with "gray water" saved
       from bathing, dishwashing and clothes washing, if this is
       permitted by the city or local health department.


  Notes:

      Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers




  In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
  pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
  measures.




	   Developing a Crop Water Management Plan


  Develop a water management system before you are faced with a drought
  situation.

  1. Water Use Efficiency

    In areas where water supply is
       limited or expensive, it is economically important for farmers
       to attain high water use efficiency as well as high yields.
       Water use efficiency values can be calculated in several ways
       and should be clearly defined to avoid misinterpretation.

    Water use efficiency for a crop and
       irrigation system can be expressed as crop yield (pounds) per
       unit of water applied to or actually used by the crop
       (acre-inches).  2. Rainfall Patterns

    Average monthly rainfall data can
       be misleading because large variations occur.  Therefore,
       percent probability that a certain rainfall amount will occur is
       a better way of assessing risk.

    Dryland crops should be grown
       during periods of high rainfall probabilities to allow more of
       the rainfall to be used for evapotranspiration.



    Notes:
      Crop Water Requirements and Water Use Efficiencies


  Experimental results for yield and water use efficiency have varied,
  but many common water management principles have emerged and are
  receiving widespread application by farmers.  Limited irrigation is
  now being widely practiced on drought tolerant crops to take
  advantage of expected rainfall.

  1. Sorghum

    Sorghum has good ability to adjust
       to water stress.  Sorghum requires 13 to 24 inches of seasonal
       water use (evapotranspiration) from precipitation, stored soil
       moisture and irrigation to achieve grain yields of 3,000 to
       6,700 pounds per acre.

    Dryland sorghum yields an average
       of about 1,600 pounds per acre, although yields of up to 3,000
       pounds per acre are not uncommon during high rainfall years.

    Pre-plant irrigation is often not
       needed and may be inefficiently applied, especially when using
       conventional graded furrow irrigation systems.

    The same amount of water may be
       more efficiently used if applied at later stages of crop
       growth.

    Conservation tillage can reduce the
       need for pre-plant irrigation of sorghum through improved soil
       moisture storage.

    Irrigations should be timed to avoid
       water stress during periods of peak water use (boot, heading
	  and flowering stages) to achieve
	    reasonably good yields and maximum irrigation water use
	    efficiency.

    Two well-timed seasonal irrigations
       of 4 inches per application or the equivalent are adequate in
       normal years for good yields of medium maturity hybrids.  Saving
       irrigation water by withholding a 4-inch irrigation reduces
       sorghum grain yields by only about 10 percent during the early
       6- to 8-leaf stage but by almost 50 percent if withheld at the
       heading and bloom stage.

  2. Corn

    Corn is much more sensitive to
       water stress than sorghum, wheat or cotton.  Corn is planted
       earlier than sorghum and typically allows more efficient use of
       the May-June wet season than sorghum.

    The early planting date required for
       corn increases the need for pre-plant irrigation for stand
       establishment.  The total seasonal water use to achieve any corn
       grain yield is about 13 inches.

    Pre-plant irrigation is often
       necessary.  Drought seasons require one or two additional
       irrigations.

    Moisture stress caused by low soil
       water availability or hot, dry conditions during the flowering
       stage (which includes tasseling, silking and pollination) can
       severely restrict corn yield.

		      (continued next page)
      Crop Water Requirements and Water Use Efficiencies
			 (continued)


    Reduced irrigation of corn has
       generally resulted in significant yield decreases. Planned water
       deficits into the stress range are not recommended and may be
       feasible only on soils with moderate to high water storage and
       during the early vegetative or grain ripening stages.

    Reduced acreage, rather than
       reduced irrigation, offers the best way to adjust corn
       irrigation to limited water supplies.

  3. Wheat

    Winter wheat is a major drought-tolerant crop that grows vegeta-
       tively during the normal dry period from fall to early spring
       and develops grain during a period of increasing spring
       rainfall. Wheat is normally planted around October 1 and
       requires available soil moisture from irrigation or
       precipitation for germination and early growth.

    Wheat also should receive one late
       fall irrigation followed by two to three spring irrigations for
       high grain yields. One additional early irrigation (together
       with additional applied fertilizer) is usually needed for early
       planted wheat that is grazed and also managed for grain
       production.

    The highest wheat yield response to
       irrigation usually occurs during jointing and boot stages. These
       stages also coincide with a period of relatively low probability
       of rainfall.

    The least efficient irrigation is
       during grain filling, which
	  normally is associated with
	    increased rainfall.

  4. Cotton

    Cotton is a drought-tolerant,
       long-season crop that lends itself to limited irrigation despite
       a somewhat complicated pattern of water use, deficits and
       application.

    Early fruit set is important in cotton
       production.  However, the production, placement and retention of
       fruiting sites are sensitive to soil water availability.

    Under dryland conditions, expected
       lint yields are in the range of 250 to 300 pounds per acre.
       Cotton requires more than 13 inches of seasonal water use to
       produce appreciable lint yields.

    High levels of water application can
       decrease lint yield by causing excessive vegetative development
       and fall immaturity.

    A pre-plant irrigation of 4 inches is
       usually advantageous, especially if spring rainfall is not
       adequate, but heavier pre-plant irrigations are not warranted.

    Cotton has the ability to overcome
       moisture stress at most growth stages if water becomes available
       and low temperatures do not limit growth.

    The most critical period for
       irrigation is early to mid-bloom.  If water is available, a
       second irrigation should be applied at peak to late bloom.


	  Developing and Improving Vegetative Cover


  1. Good cover (standing vegetation and
       mulch) lessens the impact of rain that dislodges soil particles,
       and thus reduces the amount of sediment in surface run-off.
       Good cover also slows the movement of run-off so that more water
       soaks into the soil and more sediment is deposited on the
       grazing land rather than being carried into streams or ponds.
       Vegetative cover also entraps manure and prevents pollution of
       streams with animal waste.

  2. Best management practices for
       preventing nonpoint source pollution from grazing lands include
       locating animal holding pens and feeding areas away from streams
       and other hydrologically sensitive areas, and establishing and
       maintaining good vegetative cover.

  3. The amount and type of vegetation
       present significantly influence the rate of infiltration of
       water.  Standing vegetation and a mulch or litter
       layer increase infiltration.  Organic matter in the surface soil
       improves soil aggregation, making it easier for water to move
       through the soil.

  4. Pores in the soil created by plant roots
       increase the rate at which water can enter the soil by providing
       pathways for water movement.  Long-lived, perennial bunchgrasses
       have deeper root systems than sodgrasses and allow water to move
       deeper.

  5. The height of grass also affects water
       movement.  Water moves more rapidly across closely grazed grass
       than grasses left with several inches of stubble.

  6. If the watershed has been severely
       overgrazed, the vegetative cover will need to be improved by
       controlling undesirable plants such as broadleaf weeds and
       shrubs and/or seeding desirable plants.


    Notes:
		 Maintaining Vegetative Cover


  1. If at least 10 to 15 percent of the
       desirable vegetation is present, the most practical and
       economical way to maintain a desirable vegetative cover is
       through proper grazing management.

    The key to proper grazing
       management is to balance the number of grazing animals with the
       forage produced.  The proper balance will leave a sufficient
       amount of plant residue to maintain stored food reserves, plant
       vigor, a healthy root system and seed production of the desired
       plants.

    It also allows seedlings to become
       established.

  2. For planning purposes, an appropriate
       long-term stocking rate may be determined based on the "take
       half and leave half" rule of thumb.  However, a more realistic
       approach is to manage the grazing stocking rate so that a given
       amount of residue is left prior to resumption of growth in the
       spring.

     The amount of residue required will
       vary according to the area of the state and the vegetation
       types.  For example, 300 pounds of plant residue may be adequate
       for a semi-arid area with short-grass vegetation, while 1,200
       pounds of residue may be required in a more humid area with
       tall-grass vegetation.

  3. It also is important to properly distribute
       animals over the grazing land.  Poor distribution may result in
     extreme overgrazing of one area and
       little use of another in the same unit.  Often these overgrazed
       areas are located near water, thus increasing the potential for
       pollution.

     Practices which contribute to proper
       grazing distribution include the development and strategic
       placement of water sources, construction of fences, strategic
       location of salt and feeding sites, building of trails,
       fertilization, prescribed burning and spot seeding.

  4. Plants benefit from periods of no
       grazing.  Deferment from grazing is particularly useful on areas
       where vegetation needs to be improved.

  5. Planned grazing systems divide an area
       into two or more grazing units to allow periods of grazing and
       rest from grazing in a sequence determined by management
       objectives, physiological needs of the plants and the design of
       the system.

    Grazing systems may include as
       few as 2 or as many as 30 or more grazing units.

    Some temporary soil compaction
       may occur with systems that concentrate animals in a small area
       for short periods of time.  However, if the period is short, the
       soil will recover rapidly from the compaction.  A planned
       grazing system makes more effective use of forage and, combined
       with the proper stocking rate, protects desirable range plants
       and water quality.

  Notes:

		      Managing Salinity


  Salinity problems normally occur in arid or semi-arid climatic
  regions.  Salinity is a major nonpoint source pollutant in the west
  as irrigation return flows can carry dissolved salts into waterways.
  In humid climates, soluble salts are generally leached downward
  through the soil profile where they cannot cause problems.

  In general, accumulation of salt results from water evaporation at
  the soil surface.  This condition can render land vegetatively
  nonproductive, and may lead to nonpoint source pollution through
  erosion and sedimentation.  Further, the salt concentration may run
  off during a storm and affect adjacent lands.  These problems
  normally occur where either surface seep areas appear or where a high
  water table exists in the soil profile.

  Sometimes rainfall moves through the ground to the water table or to
  a barrier above the water table.  Here it accumulates and moves
  laterally, often parallel with the land slope, toward an outlet or
  low point in the landscape.  It then forms a wet weather or saline
  seep.  During the summer or periods of low rainfall, such seepage
  spots may completely dry out.  Only detailed analyses of borings,
  soils and surveys can establish the source and amount of groundwater
  contributing to seep areas.

  1. Irrigated land in arid areas sometimes
       must be drained to prevent or reduce salinity problems.
       Topographic surveys and subsurface investigations should be made
       to obtain information on the soils, geology and water table
       elevations.  These data are the basis for determining the extent
       of the problem and for setting design parameters.  2. Plant
  nutrients and pesticides should be
       applied in such a manner as to limit the potential for
       contamination of surface and groundwater supplies by outflow
       from drainage systems.

  3. One alternative treatment is to establish
       permanent salt tolerant species such as bermudagrass, aikali
       sacaton, gramas and kleingrass.  Salt tolerant species will
       allow a vegetative cover where bare ground would otherwise lead
       to water quality problems.

  4. Cropping with salt tolerant, seasonal
       species such as cotton or small grains assists in addressing the
       problem of saline soils.  Planting high water use crops such as
       alfalfa, four-wing saltbush or trees above a seep area helps
       control the amount of moisture that accumulates.

  5. Organic or inorganic additives to the soil
       surface will increase water infiltration.  This will allow water
       to force dissolved salts below the root zones and prevent
       further concentration of salts on the soil surface.

    Organic amendments include cotton
       burs and gin "trash" that may be obtained from cotton processing
       facilities.

    Inorganic agents to increase soil
       tilth include gypsum or calcium sulfate.



		    (continued next page)

		      Managing Salinity
			 (continued)


  6. Land alterations are sometimes used to
       alleviate salinity problems.  Such constructed systems have a
       place in salinity control, but use caution when implementing
       them.  In some cases, altering the land surface by smoothing or
       grading may eliminate the effects of the problem by confining
       the seep area or providing natural surface drainage.

     Practices such as closed-end terraces or
       basin terraces which impound water can be used on areas with
       minimal seepage, but should be scrutinized where they might
       contribute to problems associated with saline seeps.  When seeps
       threaten downstream water quality, installing a fresh water
       interceptor drain above the seep may be an alternative
       treatment.

  7. Drainage may be used in severe cases of
       salinity.  The location of a suitable outlet and the quality of
       discharge and receiving waters is crucial in considering either
       a surface or subsurface drain.  Surface drainage can be
       accomplished by several methods, depending on the conditions at
       the site.

    A surface drainage system may be
       the least expensive alternative, but potential maintenance
       problems and obstructions to farming operations should be
       considered.  Maintaining water quality of any discharge waters
       is of utmost importance.  Most subsurface drainage uses
       corrugated plastic tubing installed with a synthetic filter
       envelope.  Again, as with any other drainage system, an adequate
       outlet is imperative, especially considering the discharge water
       quality in comparison to receiving waters.

  8. Irrigation water management is
       important on saline soils.  Salt accumulates in soils because of
       salts in irrigation water or the presence of a high water
       table.  To prevent harmful accumulation of salts in soils
       irrigated with saline water, an additional quantity of water,
       above that required for the crop, must be passed through the
       root zone to leach salt from the soil.

     A high water table contributes to salt
       accumulation because capillary action causes water and soluble
       salts to rise to the soil surface.  There the water evaporates,
       leaving behind salt deposits.  Enough water must be applied
       periodically to leach out accumulated salts without excessive
       waste of water.  If a seep area could be made worse by applying
       liquid agricultural waste, proper management must be used,
       including nutrient management.


			  Earthquakes



   Earthquakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
      How Earthquakes are Measured . . . . . . . . . 52 Preparing for
      an Earthquake. . . . . . . . . . 53 During an Earthquake . . . .
      . . . . . . . . . 54 Responses Inside Buildings During an
      Earthquake 55 Responses if You are Outside During an Earthquake
      55 After an Earthquake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Special
      Considerations for Agricultural Producers 57




			 Earthquakes



  The crust of the earth is made up of seven masses called tectonic
  plates.  They are in steady motion.  Accumulated stress builds up
  from the continental plates grinding, sliding or colliding against or
  slipping under each other.  Pressure is released in a powerful
  explosion of energy that fractures the earth's surface, shakes the
  ground, causes the ground to roll, liquefies some soil and generates
  giant water waves.

  When an earthquake will unleash its force remains unpredictable.
  Preliminary cracks may send off foreshocks before a main fracture.
  These foreshocks can occur months or minutes before the rapid onset
  of the earthquake.  An earthquake lasts for seconds or minutes, while
  aftershocks may occur for months after the main earthquake.

  Powerful and widespread ruptures or shaking ground can cause
  buildings to move off their foundations or collapse; damage utility
  lines, other structures and roads; set off fires; and threaten the
  lives of people and animals.  It is the damage to structures that
  presents the greatest risks to life and property.

  Earthquakes create a trigger for other natural hazards such as
  landslides, tsunamis, avalanches, fires and flash floods.

  The greatest likelihood of major earthquakes is in the western United
  States, particularly along the San Andreas Fault in California and up
  the Alaskan Coast, in the New Madrid Fault Zone in the Midwest, and
  in a few pockets on the East Coast, particularly in South Carolina
  and New England.  There is no seasonal or yearly cycle of
  occurrence.  Earthquakes can happen at any time.  Major earthquakes
  appear to occur in cycles of between 50 and 275 years.




		 How Earthquakes are Measured



  The Richter Scale provides a measure of the magnitude of the
  earthquake in terms of energy released, measured in equivalent tons
  of TNT.  Each unit represents a 10-fold energy release.

  An earthquake of Richter 2.5 or less is usually ignored.  Dishes
  rattling and china shaking occur at 3.  The Modified Mercalli
  Intensity Scale is a more subjective accounting or survey of behavior
  and damage based on observation at the site.  Depending on the
  intensity of ground vibrations, the elasticity of buildings and
  structures, and how well structures are connected to their
  foundation, falling or collapsing objects and structures accompany
  earthquakes.  Structural instability, such as dam failures, can
  trigger flash floods.  Fires have been the greatest cause of damage
  in the past.  Offshore earthquakes may cause tsunamis.


		 Preparing for an Earthquake


  In addition to precautions outlined in the sections on General Family
  Preparedness, Residential Fires and Hazardous Material Accidents, you
  need to take the following steps.

  1. Become familiar with earthquake terms.

    Aftershocks: Tremors that occur in
       the hours or days after the initial earthquake shaking is over.

    Epicenter: The place on the surface
       of the earth directly above an earthquake's first movement
       (focus).

    Fault: A fracture in the earth's
       crust along which rocks have been displaced.

    Focus: The point beneath the
       surface of the earth where the rocks first break and move,
       beginning the earthquake.

    Intensity: An indication of an
       earthquake's apparent severity at a specific location, based on
       its effects on people and structures.

    Magnitude: Size of an earthquake
       determined from the size of the seismic waves it generates as
       recorded by seismographs.

    Mercalli Scale: The scale used to
       measure the strength of an earth- quake as determined by
       people's eyewitness observations.

    Tidal wave: This is a misnomer for
       a tsunami.  Tidal waves occur from the interaction of the moon
       and large bodies of water.  Waves you see rolling into the ocean
       shore every day are tidal waves.  Tsunami: A seismic sea wave.
    An
       unusually large wave (or series of them) produced by an undersea
       earthquake or volcanic eruption.

  2.  Safeguard your home by:

    Bolting bookshelves, water heaters
       and cabinets to wall studs.

    Anchoring things so that they will
       not move or fall during an earthquake is the most important
       thing you can do to make yourself safe.  Keeping things in place
       also means they will not break.

  3. There are many ways to make the
       contents of your home and workplace less hazardous.

    Move cabinets and tall furniture so
       that if they fall they are not likely to hit people.

    Use steel angle brackets to anchor
       them to studs in the wall.

    Put heavy or breakable things on
       bottom shelves.  You can even put "fences" or restraining wires
       to keep items from falling off open shelves.

    Put child-proof or swing-hook
       latches on bathroom and kitchen cabinets.  At work, put strong
       latches on cabinets where hazardous items are stored.

    Use screw-eyes or tongue-in-groove hangers to mount mirrors or
       pictures instead of hanging them on nails.

    Be sure that ceiling fans and light
       fixtures are well anchored or have earthquake safety wiring.

		      (continued next page) Preparing for an Earthquake
			 (continued)


    Anchor typewriters, computers,
       televisions, stereos and like items with heavy duty Velcro, at
       home and at work.

    Strap your water heater to anchor it
       to wall studs.  You can buy metal strapping, called plumber's
       tape or strap iron, in hardware stores.  Use it to strap the
       heater at the top and bottom.  This not only preserves your best
       source of
	  water but also significantly reduces
	    the fire hazard in your home by preventing a broken gas
	    line.

    Do not assume that anything is too
       heavy to move in an earthquake.  When the ground is going up and
       down in waves, it bounces even the heaviest equipment into the
       air.




		     During an Earthquake


  1. Get under a heavy table or desk and hold
       on, or sit or stand against an inside wall.

  2. Keep away from windows.

  3. If indoors, stay indoors.

  4. If outdoors, stay outdoors away from
       falling debris, trees and power lines.  5. If in a car, stay in
  the car.

  6. Many injuries occur when people act on
       their impulse to run.  Train yourself to take cover where you
       are.


  Notes:

       Responses Inside Buildings During an Earthquake


  For most of us the biggest danger in an earthquake is not from a
  building collapsing, but from things inside the building falling or
  flying around while the building is shaking.

  Hazards found inside buildings include overhead lights, ceiling
  tiles, cabinets, windows, furniture and equipment.

  If an earthquake happens, the best thing to do is:

  1. Drop, cover, and hold on.

    Get under a table.

    If there are no tables, get under or
       down between rows of chairs or against inner walls.  2. Do not
  stand in a doorway.  Buildings
       today have so much partitioning, much of which is temporary,
       that many doorways are actually weak points.  Doorways are not a
       good solution in a group situation either.

  3. If you have nothing to get under, sit
       down against an interior wall or next to a chair, holding on if
       possible.

  4. If you are in bed, it's best to stay there,
       hold on, and pull the pillows over your head for protection.

  5. If children are in another room, take
       cover in the closest safe place and call to them to do the
       same.

     Children will need you alive and unhurt
       after the earthquake.  Avoid the urge to run to protect your
       children, as that puts you in more danger of being hurt or
       injured.




      Responses if You are Outside During an Earthquake


  1. Outside, get away from buildings, walls,
       trees and power lines.

    If you cannot get clear of hazards,
       getting back inside a building is better than staying on the
       sidewalk.

    Sidewalks next to buildings are
       among the worst places to be.  2. In a car, ease off the
  accelerator and
       slow down carefully.  Do not stop on or under overpasses and
       bridges if you can avoid them.  Be aware of what traffic around
       you is doing and act accordingly.

  3. If you live in coastal areas, be aware of
       possible tsunamis.


    Notes:
		     After an Earthquake


  1. Take basic precautions immediately after
       an earthquake.  In addition to those outlined in the General
       Family Preparedness, Residential Fires and Hazardous Materials
       Accidents sections you should:

     Expect aftershocks.

    Avoid using vehicles except in
       emergencies.

  2. Check yourself for injuries and protect
       yourself by putting on shoes, work gloves and any other
       protective gear at hand.

  3. If the electricity is off, turn on a
       flashlight.

  4. Once you are sure that you're all right,
       check the people around you for injuries.

    You might ask loudly, "Is everyone
       okay?"  This will also help calm people.  The types of injuries
    that happen
       most often in an earthquake include cuts, bruises, fractures and
       physiological shock.

  5. Check the entire building for structural
       damage and chemical spills.  Refer to the section on Hazardous
       Materials Accidents for further response information.

     Check chimneys for cracks and damage.
       The initial check should be made from a distance.  Have a
       professional inspect the chimney for internal damage that could
       lead to fire.

  6. Right after an earthquake, hang up your
       phone.  If the receivers are shaken off the hooks, these lines
       register as "open" in the system and it overloads.  You can help
       restore telephone service by hanging up your phone.


  Notes:

      Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers




  In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
  pages, the agricultural producer should consider the following
  measures.

  1. Immediately after an earthquake, animals will react with great
  fear.  Animals, including
       cats and dogs, that are usually docile and accustomed to humans,
       may react violently.  They may bite, scratch or run at you.

  2. Earthquake aftershocks compound the problem of caring for animals
  right after an
       earthquake.  Aftershocks are quite frequent after large
       earthquakes, and further increase the fear and skittish
       reactions of animals.

  3. The best thing to do for animals after an earthquake is to get
  them out in the open, to
       open pasture or rangeland.  Let the animals run free.  Do not
       attempt to rope or chain large animals such as cows and horses
       because they may injure or kill themselves if an aftershock
       occurs and they try to run.

  4. Get animals out of barns or buildings that may have been damaged
  in an earthquake.
       Barns are especially susceptible to earthquake damage.  Large
       beams and rafters may not be well secured, thus making the barn
       subject to collapse during aftershocks.

    Hay bales and large equipment may be tossed around and come
    tumbling down on
       animals and people inside barns.

    Immediately open the doors and let the animals out.  It's easier to
    recover a live
       animal than replace a dead one.

  5. Ensure that mechanical equipment has not been turned over or
  damaged.  If there is
       danger of electrical shock, turn off the main electrical circuit
       breaker or fuse.  If you smell gas or suspect a gas leak, turn
       off the main valve.

  6. Check fence lines and posts.  You may need to build a make-shift
  yard from temporary
       posts and fencing.  Then repair/rebuild the regular fencing, and
       open the temporary yard when completed.

  7. If animal carcasses need to be disposed of refer to the General
  Family Preparedness,
       Special Post-Disaster Considerations section for appropriate
       handling.


    Notes:                   Residential Fires



   Residential Fires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
      Fire Safety and Prevention . . . . . . . . . . 59 What to Do in
      Case of a Fire . . . . . . . . . 60 What to Do After a Fire. . .
      . . . . . . . . . 61





		      Residential Fires




  Fire safety and prevention are important for everyday emergencies,
  but they are crucial during disasters.  More than 6,000 Americans die
  and 100,000 more are injured by fires each year.  Fire spreads
  quickly.  A fire's heat is more dangerous than the flames; inhaling
  super hot air can sear your lungs.  Fires produce poisonous gases
  that make you drowsy and disoriented.  In addition to those measures
  outlined in the General Family Preparedness section, the following
  fire specific measures should be followed.










		  Fire Safety and Prevention


  1. Install smoke detectors in your house or
       apartment.

    Place detectors on every level of
       your house:  -  outside bedrooms -  at the top of open stairways
       or the
	    bottom of enclosed stairs -  near (but not in) the
       kitchen.

	 Clean smoke detectors regularly
	    and replace batteries once a year.

  2. Plan escape routes with your family.
       See the General Family Preparedness section of the Handbook.

  3. Clean out storage areas.  Don't let trash
       accumulate.

  4. Check electrical wiring.

	 Inspect extension cords for frayed
	    or exposed wires or loose plugs.

	 Do not overload extension cords or
	    outlets.

  5. Never use gasoline, benzine, naptha or
       similar liquids indoors.

	 Never smoke near these flammable
	    liquids.

	 Safely discard all rags or materials
	    soaked in flammable material after use.
  6. Check heating sources.  Make sure they
       are clean and in working order.

  7. Alternative heating sources such as
       wood, coal and kerosene should be used carefully.

  8. Make sure that home insulation is not in
       contact with electrical wiring.

  9. Know where your gas meter and central
       electrical panels are so you can shut them off in an emergency.
       If you shut off your gas line, allow only a gas company
       representative to turn it on again to make sure it is done
       properly.

  10.     Ask your local fire department to inspect
	    your house for fire safety and prevention.

  11.     If you live in wildland areas, your house
	    could be a target for wildfire.

	 Call local authorities and get
	    information about wildfires in your area.

	 Do not install an untreated wood
	    shake roof.

	 Make your landscape fire safe by
	    removing excess brush and undergrowth, planting fire
	    resistant plants, and pruning trees of low branches.


    Notes:
		 What to Do in Case of a Fire


  1. To put out a small fire, take away its air
       or fuel, or cool it with water or fire extinguishing chemicals.

  2. Never use water on an electrical fire.
       Use only a fire extinguisher.

  3. Oil and grease fires occur primarily in
       the kitchen.  Smother the flames with baking soda or salt or put
       a lid over the flame if it is burning in a pan.

  4. Small fires can be controlled with water
       or fire extinguishers, but do not try to put out a fire which is
       getting out of control.

  5. If your clothes catch on fire, stop, drop
       and roll until the fire is extinguished.  Running only makes the
       fire burn faster.  6. Sleep with your door closed.  If you
       wake up to the sound of a smoke detector, feel the door before
       you open it.

	 If the door is cool, leave
	    immediately.  Be prepared to bend low or crawl.  Smoke and
	    heat rise, and the air is cooler near the floor.

	 If the door is hot, escape through a
	    window.  If you cannot escape, hang a white or
	    light-colored sheet outside the window to alert fire
	    fighters of your presence.


  Notes:

		   What to Do After a Fire


  1. Contact your insurance agent about
       estimates and loss coverage.

  2. Do not enter a fire-damaged building
       unless authorities have given you permission.

  3. When entering a building, be watchful
       for signs of heat or smoke because they may be signs of
       smoldering remains of fire.

  4. Have an electrician check your
       household wiring before the current is turned back on.  Do not
       attempt to reconnect any utilities yourself.

  5. Beware of structural damage.  Roofs and
       floors may be weakened and need repair.  6. Discard food,
  beverages and medicines
       that have been exposed to heat, smoke or soot.

  7. If you have a safe or strong box, do not
       try to open it.  A safe or fire proof box can hold intense heat
       for several hours.  If the door is opened before the box is
       cooled, the entering air combined with the high internal
       temperature may cause the contents to burst into flames.

  Refer also to the General Family Preparedness section.


    Notes:                         Floods



   Floods. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
      Preparing for Floods and Flash Floods. . . . . 63 Building Dikes
      To Prevent Minor Surface Flooding 64 Preventing Leaks in
      Basements. . . . . . . . . 65 Cleaning Up After a Flood Setting
      Priorities . 67 Salvaging Sewing Machines and Sergers. . . . . 68
      Cleaning Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses . 69 Cleaning
      Flood-soiled Blankets, Quilts, Comforters, Linens 72 Restoring
      Electrical Service After a Flood . . 74 Flooded Gardens. . . . .
      . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Checking Flood-damaged Buildings . . . .
      . . . 77 Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements . . . 79
      Finding and Repairing Leaks in Roofs . . . . . 81 Controlling
      Rodents After Floods . . . . . . . 82 Controlling Insects After
      Floods . . . . . . . 83 Special Considerations for Agricultural
      Producers 84
	 Preparing For a Flood or Flash Flood on Your Farm or Ranch 84
	 Protecting Livestock During a Flood . . . . 84 Preparing to
	 Evacuate Your Farm . . . . . . 85 Safety Rules for Farm
	 Clean-up. . . . . . . 86




			    Floods





  Floods are the most common and widespread of all natural hazards.
  Some floods develop over a period of days, but flash floods can
  result in raging waters in just a few minutes.  Even very small
  creeks, gullies, culverts, dry streambeds or low-lying ground that
  may appear harmless in dry weather can flood.  Wherever you live, be
  aware of potential flooding hazards.  If you live in a low-lying
  area, near water or downstream from a dam, you must be prepared for
  floods.  In addition to the information provided here, also refer to
  the General Family Preparedness section.










	    Preparing for Floods and Flash Floods


  Some simple advance preparation will help you be ready for possible
  floods in your area.

  1. Know the flood warning system in your
       community and be sure your family knows the warning.  Instruct
       family members in emergency procedures during a flood warning.

     If you live in an area subject to frequent
       or sudden floods, especially flash floods, you may wish to have
       family flood drills.  Assign each family member an emergency
       task such as gathering emergency supplies, turning off
       utilities, or listening to the radio for instructions.
						  2.   Flood
							 proof your
							 buildings.

    Install check valves in sewer traps
       to prevent water from backing up in sewer drains.

    Seal cracks in walls and floors with
       hydraulic cement.

    Place heavy screens over lower
       windows to prevent breakage from floating objects.

  3. Be ready to protect appliances from
       minor flooding.  Put a half-block of cement under each corner of
       refrigerators, freezers, washing machines and dryers.  Use
       bricks or boards if you don't have cement blocks.

  4. Identify fire hazards.

    During a flood, fire danger is
       increased.  In addition, fire departments may be unable to get
       to fires through high water.  Watch for these fire hazards on
       your property:
				  -     Broken or leaking gas lines
				  -     flooded electrical circuits,
				  -     submerged furnaces or
				  electrical
					  appliances -     flammable or
				  explosive
					  materials coming from
					  upstream.

  5. Before floodwaters crest, turn off the
       main power switch if you think the electrical circuits are going
       to be under water.

     Never Touch The Switch While You
       Are Wet Or Standing In Water.  Do not turn the electrical system
       back on until it has been inspected by an electrician.

  6. Know what a river height forecast
       means for your property especially how far your property is
       above or below expected flood levels.

  7. Know where to go in case of flooding.
       Remember that you must seek higher ground as quickly as
       possible, on foot if necessary.

  8. If you are camping, know how far your
       campsite is above nearby waterways.

				  Know how to seek higher ground.
				     Stay out of unknown water paths
				     such as dry creeks or river beds.

				  If advised to leave the area, do so
				     immediately.

  9. Refer to the General Family
       Preparedness section of this Handbook for additional steps to
       take.

    Notes:
       Building Dikes To Prevent Minor Surface Flooding


  Standing water from melting snow or heavy rains can flood basements
  and damage yards, wells, feed supplies, machinery and other
  property.  Flooding is more apt to occur in areas with poor surface
  drainage systems or ice dams.

  A 1- to 3-foot high sandbag earth dike offers protection from shallow
  flooding (water depth less than 3 feet).  Contact a construction
  firm, lumber yard or Civil Defense officials for information on where
  to buy sandbags in the area.

  A sandbag dike can be constructed as follows:

  1. Select the site for the dike, making the
       best use of natural land features to keep it as short and low as
       possible.  Avoid trees or other obstructions which would weaken
       the structure.  Do not build the dike against a basement wall.
       Leave about 8 feet of space to maneuver between the dike and
       buildings.

  2. Remove ice and snow (down to the bare
       ground if possible) from a strip of land about 8 feet wide.

  3. Fill and lap sandbags.

				  Fill bags approximately half full of
				     clay, silt or sand.  Do not tie.

				  Alternate direction of bags with
				     bottom layer lengthwise of dike.
				     Lap unfilled portion under next
				     bag.

				  Tamp thoroughly in place.  Build the
				  dike three times as wide
				     as it is high.

  4. Seal the finished dike to increase its
       watertightness.  To seal the dike:

				  Spread a layer of earth or sand 1
				     inch deep and about 1 foot wide
				     along the bottom of the dike on
				     the water side.

				  Lay polyethylene plastic sheeting so
				     that the bottom edge extends 1
				     foot beyond the bottom edge of the
				     dike over the loose dirt.  The
				     upper edge should extend over the
				     top of the dike.  (This plastic
				     sheeting, available from
				     construction supply firms, comes
				     in 100-foot rolls and is 8 or 10
				     feet wide.)

				  Lay the plastic sheeting down very
				     loosely so that the pressure of
				     the water will make the plastic
				     conform easily with the sandbag
				     surface.  If the plastic is
				     stretched too lightly, the water
				     force can puncture it.

				  Place a row of tightly fitting
				     sandbags on the bottom edge of the
				     plastic to form a watertight seal
				     along the water side.

				  Place sandbags at about 6-foot
				     intervals to hold down the top
				     edge of the plastic.  Place boards
				     or dirt between these sandbags to
				     prevent winds from disturbing the
				     plastic.  As you work, avoid
				     puncturing the plastic with sharp
				     objects or by walking on it.


    Notes:
		Preventing Leaks in Basements


  Quick thaws or heavy rains can mean damp or flooded basements.  Leaks
  in basements may be caused by cracked walls, improper grading, water
  in window wells or water pressure under floors.

  Cracks

  Watertight concrete is important to prevent water seepage in the
  basement.  Fill cracks when the soil is dry, so cracks will be dry.
  It is best to fill cracks when there is no artificial heat in the
  basement so thin layers of mortar can cure.

  1. Wide cracks ( inch or more).  Shape
       the crack like a V with a star drill or cold chisel.  Fill with
       mortar.

				  Chisel out the sides of the crack to
				     make a V opening about 1 inch deep
				     and 1 inch wide at the surface.

				  Coat the crack with a creamy
				     mixture of cement and water.

				  With a trowel immediately fill the
				     opening with a 1:2 mixture of
				     cement and sand mortar (one amount
				     of cement to two amounts of sand
				     mortar).  Or use a chemically
				     treated cement available at
				     hardware or building supply
				     stores.
  2. Hairline cracks.  Fill the cracks with a
       cement base paint.  With a scrub brush apply a cement wash of
       Portland cement and water.  Or check for other leak-stopping
       materials at your local lumberyard or hardware store.

  3. The ground around foundations should
       slope away from the house at a rate of at least 6 inches in 10
       feet.  You should regrade by cutting and filling if you notice
       water standing along foundations, or if the surrounding ground
       is flat or slopes toward the house.

  4. Carry roof water away from the
       building by eave gutters and downspouts.  Water from downspouts
       should be carried about 3 feet away from the foundation wall.

				  Use a splash block, downspouting
				     or tile drain.

				  Do not direct water from the
				     downspouting into the drain around
				     the footing.

		    (continued next page)

    Notes:
		Preventing Leaks in Basements
			 (continued)


  Window Wells

  1. Check window wells to be sure that
       surrounding ground ends a few inches below the top of the well.

  2. To prevent water seeping down the outer
       surface and under the well, compact several inches of dirt
       around the well.

  3. If there is tile around basement footing,
       dig a post hole inside the well to this tile.  Fill with clean
       gravel.

  4. If there is no tile around footing,
       improve drainage by laying drain tile from the bottom of the
       window well to a lower point in the yard.  Basement Floors

  Water pressure under concrete basement floors may cause them to leak
  or buckle.  To relieve this pressure:

  1. Build a sump so water can run into it
       and be pumped out.

  2. If there is a layer of clean gravel under
       the floor, drill a hole in the side of a floor drain.  This will
       allow water to flow through the gravel to the drain, and will
       relieve the pressure under the floor.

  3. Leaks sometimes can be diverted
       through concrete lined channels below or above floor level.
       Make a channel by chipping away floor and smoothing it with
       mortar, or by building a ditch above floor level.  Carry the
       channel around the wall to a floor drain.



  Notes:

	 Cleaning Up After a Flood Setting Priorities


  Priorities will vary with the kind and seriousness of damage.
  Buildings may not be habitable during repair.

  1. Examine building structure.  Check
       foundations for settling, cracking or undermining.  Examine
       walls, floors, doors and windows to determine what repairs are
       necessary.  You may want to repair only temporarily until
       extensive work can be done.

  2. If basement is flooded, start pumping the
       water in stages.  Pump about one- third of the water each day.

  3. Get the electrical system in operation.  If
       the switch box is in a flooded basement, do not turn electricity
       back on until water has been pumped out.  Take electrical
       appliances to a serviceman as soon as possible.

  4. Get the water system in operation.
       Disinfect wells and water system.

  5. Shovel out mud and silt before it dries.

  6. Before they dry, wash down flooded
       walls and floors with a hose.  Start at upper limit of flooding
       and work downward.  7. Scrub and disinfect walls and floors.

  8. Start the heating system if possible to
       speed up drying.  Before operating it, the heating system may
       need to be cleaned, dried and reconditioned.  Make sure chimneys
       are clean before starting system.

  9. Dry out walls and floors.  If necessary
       for proper drying, strip walls open up to water level.  Drill
       holes in exterior siding.  Complete drying may take months.

  10.     Repair buckled walls and floors.

  11.     Clean and dry household items,
	    furniture, carpets, clothing, dishes and bedding.
	    Disinfect when necessary.

  12.     Treat items for mildew as needed.

  13.     Care for damaged trees, shrubs and
	    lawn.

  14.     Repaint, repair, refinish as necessary.


    Notes:
	    Salvaging Sewing Machines and Sergers


  Most damage to flooded sewing machines and sergers is caused by
  rust.  Even if the machine was not submerged, check for rust caused
  by general dampness.  Rust develops quickly on highly polished,
  machined or plated surfaces.

  1. If the equipment was submerged, the
       machine (head and controls) or the serger should be serviced by
       a dealer or professional sewing machine/serger repair person
       within 10 days if possible.

  2. Try to prevent as much damage as
       possible by drying equipment quickly.

				  Use a hand-held hair dryer to help
				     dry interior parts.

				  Dry attachments with a soft cloth or
				     a hair dryer.

				  Rinse attachments and removable
				     metal parts in dry cleaning
				     solvent or a light machine oil.
				     Oil replaces water and protects
				     the metal.

  3. Oil interior parts to protect them.  Put a
       few drops of machine oil on each moving part and operate the
       sewing machine or serger by hand for several minutes to
       distribute oil.

     If the equipment has been submerged, do
       not use the motor and controls to operate the equipment until
       they have been inspected by a dealer or a repair person.  4. If
  the sewing machine, serger or
       attachments have already begun to rust, follow preventive
       measures as above.  Then rub rusted parts with very fine steel
       wool and reapply a coating of oil.

  5. If the equipment cannot be serviced
       within 2 weeks, be sure a light film of oil remains on the
       parts.

				  Store equipment in a large plastic
				     bag until serviced to protect
				     other surfaces from leaking oil.

				  Place a chemical dehumidifier in
				     the bag with the machine to absorb
				     any residual moisture.

  6. If equipment and controls were not
       submerged, professional servicing may not be necessary.  Follow
       rust prevention measures for metal parts and then operate the
       equipment with the motor.

     If the equipment works properly,
       remove excess oil from attachments and other removable parts
       with a soft cloth.  To remove excess oil from interior metal
       parts and thread-handling mechanisms sew/serge through scrap
       fabrics until no more oil is absorbed into fabric.


  Notes:

	Cleaning Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses


  Mattresses

  1. A good innerspring mattress should be
       sent to a commercial renovating company.  Renovation is too
       difficult to do at home.  Ask about the cost of the work.  It
       may be less expensive to buy a good reconditioned or new
       mattress.

  2. If a mattress must be used temporarily,
       scrape off surface dirt and expose mattress to sunlight to dry
       as much as possible.  Cover mattress with a rubber or plastic
       sheet or mattress cover before using it.  3. If you decide to
  keep a flood-soiled
       mattress, it should be sterilized.

				  This must be done at a sterilizing
				     plant such as a mattress company
				     or a state hospital.

				  Ask your local public health
				     department or county Extension
				     agent for information on mattress
				     sterilizing plants in your area.

				  Have mattresses as dry as possible
				     before taking them to a
				     sterilizing plant.  Use crop
				     drying fans or household fans to
				     speed up the drying process.

		    (continued next page)

    Notes:
	Cleaning Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses
			 (continued)


  Feather Pillows

  1. For feather pillows, if ticking is in good
       condition and does not contain red or yellow stains, wash
       feather and ticking together.

				  Brush off surface dirt.

				  Wash in machine or by hand in
				     warm (not hot) suds 15 to 20
				     minutes.  Use a disinfectant,
				     following product directions for
				     use.  If using an automatic
				     washer, wash no more than two
				     pillows at one time.

				  If washing by hand, rinse at least
				     three times in clear warm water.

				  Spin off water or squeeze out as
				     much water as possible.  Do not
				     put pillows through a wringer.

				  Dry in an automatic dryer at
				     moderate heat setting.  Put
				     several bath towels in the dryer
				     with the pillow to speed up
				     drying.  Allow about 2 hours.  Or
				     dry pillows in a warm room on a
				     sweater drying rack with a fan on
				     them.  Shake and turn pillows
				     occasionally to fluff feathers and
				     hasten drying.  Or hang pillows on
				     a clothesline by two corners.
				     Change position end to end and
				     shake occasionally to fluff
				     feathers and speed drying.

  2. If ticking is not in good condition or is
       stained with red or yellow mud, wash feathers and ticking
       separately.
				  Find or make a bag of light weight,
				     firmly woven fabric such as
				     muslin.  The bag should be two to
				     three times larger than the
				     ticking.

				  Open one edge of the ticking.

				  Pin the open edges of the ticking
				     and the bag together.  Shake
				     feathers from ticking into bag.

				  Sew seam in bag to close it.

				  Wash and dry the bag of feathers,
				     following directions for washing
				     feathers and ticking together.

				  Wash the ticking, using a
				     disinfectant in the first wash.
				     Follow product directions for
				     use.  Repeat washing until stains
				     have been removed.  Difficult red
				     and yellow stains may need to be
				     bleached or treated with rust
				     remover.  Avoid drying the ticking
				     with heat until all stains have
				     been removed.

				  Transfer clean feathers to clean
				     ticking, using the same method as
				     for emptying the ticking.  Sew
				     seam in ticking to close it.

				  Feathers will slide into the ticking
				     more easily if ticking has been
				     starched and ironed.

  3. If pillows have been badly soaked with
       flood water, it may not be possible to remove all objectionable
       odors.

		   (continued on next page)
    Notes:
	Cleaning Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses
			 (continued)


  Polyester Fiberfill Pillows

  1. Brush off surface dirt.

  2. Wash in machine on gentle cycle or by
       hand in warm (not hot) suds, using a disinfectant.  Follow
       product directions for use.  If washing by hand, flush water
       through the pillow by compressing it.  Do not wring or twist.
       Repeat if all stains are not removed.

  3. If washing by hand, rinse three times in
       clear, warm water.

  4. Spin off water or press out as much
       water as possible by hand.

  5. Follow directions for drying given for
       feather pillows.  Foam Rubber or Urethane Pillows

  1. Brush off surface dirt.

  2. Follow manufacturer's directions if
       available.  Otherwise, wash in machine on gentle cycle or by
       hand in warm (not hot) suds, using a disinfectant.  Follow
       product directions for use.  If washing by hand, use a bathtub
       or large sink.  Wash by pushing down on the pillow, releasing
       and pushing down again.  Rinse the same way.  Do not wring or
       twist.

  3. Rinse well with lukewarm water.

  4. Gently squeeze or spin out excess water.
       Blot with towels.

  5. Dry away from heat or sunlight.
       Pillows may be tumbled in an automatic dryer on "air only"
       setting.  Do not use heat.  Or air dry on a flat surface,
       turning regularly.  Pillows may dry very slowly in the air.


    Notes:  Cleaning Flood-soiled Blankets, Quilts, Comforters, Linens


  Wash only one blanket, quilt or comforter at a time.  Shake and brush
  to remove surface dirt.  Follow manufacturer's laundering directions
  if available.  Otherwise follow the directions below.

  Wool Blankets, Quilts and Comforters

  1. Soak for 15 to 20 minutes in lukewarm
       water.  Use a bathtub or large sink.  Turn two or three times
       during soak period.  Drain off water.  Several soak periods
       maybe needed if the blanket is very soiled.

  2. Wash in lukewarm water with mild
       detergent and disinfectant appropriate for fiber content.
       Follow product directions for use.  Immerse blanket and work
       suds through gently, using as little agitation as possible.  If
       necessary, repeat washing procedure.

  3. Rinse in clear water three or four times.

  4. Gently squeeze out water.  Hang blanket
       over two or more clotheslines.  Let blanket droop between lines
       to distribute weight evenly.  Or use automatic dryer set on low
       heat or air only.  Remove blanket from dryer while it is still
       damp and hang over clotheslines to finish drying.  Gently
       stretch blanket into shape as it dries.

  5. Brush blanket on both sides to raise nap.
       Steam press binding, using a synthetic setting.  Quilts and
       comforters do not need brushing or pressing.  Cotton and
  Synthetic Blankets (Not Electric)

  1. Machine wash on gentle cycle in warm
       (not hot) water with detergent and disinfectant.  Follow product
       directions for use.  Repeat if necessary.

     Use bleach or rust remover to remove
       red or yellow stains.  Test before use because some bleaches and
       rust removers may remove or change the colors.

  2. Dry in automatic dryer on moderate
       heat.  Add several towels to speed drying.  Or air dry on a
       clothesline.

  3. Press binding if needed.

		    (continued next page)
    Notes:  Cleaning Flood-soiled Blankets, Quilts, Comforters, Linens
			 (continued)


  Electric Blankets

  1. Avoid twisting, crimping and wringing
       the wiring.

  2. Machine wash on gentle in warm (not
       hot) water no more than 5 minutes.  Dissolve detergent in wash
       water before putting blanket in machine.  Disinfect, following
       product directions.  Do not use chlorine bleach as the
       disinfectant.

     Evenly distribute the blanket in the
       machine.  Use cold rinse.  Do not put blanket through a
       wringer.

  3. Machine dry by preheating dryer at a
       moderate or warm setting.  Add the blanket and allow it to
       tumble for 10 minutes.

     Remove blanket while still damp and
       hang over two or more clotheslines to finish drying.  Straighten
       and shape blanket as it dries.

  4. If washing by hand, follow directions for
       wool blankets.  Electric mattress pad and foot-warmer pads may
       be washed like electric blankets.  Sheets, Towels, Linens

  1. Brush and shake off as much loose dirt
       as possible.

  2. Soak or rinse mud-stained fabric in cool
       water in washing machine to remove some of the soil.

  3. Wash in warm suds and disinfectant
       several times if necessary.  Follow product label directions for
       use.  Do not use hot water or dry with heat until all stains
       have been removed.

  4. If stains remain after several washings,
       bleach with sodium perborate or chlorine bleach.  Rust remover
       may remove red or yellow stains.  Test bleaches and rust
       removers before use because they may remove or change the
       colors.


    Notes:
	  Restoring Electrical Service After a Flood


     CAUTION: Wear rubber gloves and rubber soled boots for all work
     with electrical
       circuits.  Rubber is an insulator and will help protect you from
       shocks.


  After a flood, your electrical system should be thoroughly checked
  and repaired by an electrician.  If such service is unavailable and
  you need to do your own repairing, proceed as follows:  1. Turn power
  off.

				  Disconnect the main electrical
				     power switch and other switches
				     controlling pumps or
				     outbuildings.  If your main switch
				     is located in the basement, be
				     sure all flood water has been
				     pumped out before you attempt any
				     work on the electrical system.

				  Stand on a dry board when touching
				     any switches and use a dry stick
				     or wear rubber gloves to pull
				     handles.

				  Remove all branch circuit fuses or
				     place circuit breakers in off
				     position to ensure that power is
				     off.

				  Disconnect all plug-in equipment
				     and turn off the switch at each
				     piece of permanently connected
				     equipment.  Unscrew all light
				     bulbs.

  2. Clean and dry the system.

				  If flood water covered your first
				     floor, electrical outlets and
				     switches are probably wet.  They
				     must be dried before service can
				     be restored.  Remove the covers
				  from switches,
				     convenience outlets and other
				     electrical connections.

				  Pull receptacles, switches and wires
				     about 2 inches out from their
				     boxes.  Do not disconnect the
				     wires.

				  Clean out mud and dirt with clean
				     water.  Allow wires and
				     connections to dry.

				  Use extreme caution in cleaning
				     mud and dirt from the main
				     entrance box.  Because the power
				     line enters here, this is the most
				     hazardous part of the electrical
				     system to work on.  Assume the
				     sewer line is hot even if a test
				     shows power is off.  Never hose
				     out a hot switchbox.  Wear rubber
				     gloves and rubber soled shoes.  Do
				     not touch anything wet or stand in
				     water while working on the box.

				  In an emergency, pull the electrical
				     meter from its base to disconnect
				     the power.  Notify the electric
				     company that you broke the seal,
				     lock or tag.

				  Allow electrical wires and
				     connectors to dry completely.
				     This may take days depending on
				     how wet the system is and if any
				     heat is available.

		      (continued next page)
	  Restoring Electrical Service After A Flood
			 (continued)


  3. Check the system for electrical shorts.

				  While standing on a dry board or
				     ladder and wearing rubber gloves
				     and rubber soled shoes, check the
				     main switch box to be sure all
				     fuses are removed.

				  Close the main switch and look for
				     sparks or smoking wires.  These
				     indicate shorted switch
				     connections.  If you see evidence
				     of such shorts, carefully try to
				     correct the problem.  You may need
				     a new switch.

				  If the switch is in working order,
				     open the switch and insert a fuse
				     in one branch circuit.

				  Close the switch to check for shorts
				     in that branch circuit.

				  If the fuse doesn't blow
				     immediately, wait at least 15
				     minutes to check for slower
				     electrical leaks.  Smoking wires
				     and sparks in the circuit also
				     indicate trouble and you should
				     carefully inspect all parts of the
				     branch circuit you are checking.

				  If there are any signs of smoking or
				     heating, if the fuse blows, or
				     circuit breaker trips, remove all
				     fuses and open the main switch.
				     You may need to do additional
				     cleaning or drying, or you may
				     possibly need to replace circuit
				     parts.  Repeat steps for each of
				  the other
				     circuits one at a time.

				  After you have checked all the
				     circuits and found them in good
				     condition, once again remove all
				     fuses and open the main switch.
				     Replace wires for electrical
				     receptacles, switches and light
				     outlets in junction boxes.
				     Replace covers.

				  Then check each branch circuit
				     again by replacing one fuse at a
				     time and closing the main switch.

				  If everything is okay, close the
				     main switch.

  4. For 24 hours be careful when using
       receptacles and switches.  There may be slow leaks which could
       cause shocks.  Do not plug in electrical appliances that have
       been flooded until they have been reconditioned.

  5. If some circuits are faulty, use only the
       undamaged circuits.  Do not overload undamaged circuits with too
       many lights or appliances until normal capacity is restored.

  6. Some newer homes may have a ground
       fault circuit interruption system with their circuit breaker.
       This will probably need to be replaced.


    Notes:
		       Flooded Gardens


  1. If flood waters have covered a garden,
       some produce will be unsafe to eat.  The safety of unharvested
       fruits and vegetables will depend on:

				  Kind of produce

				  Maturity of produce at the time of
				     flooding

				  Time of year flooding occurred

				  Severity of flooding (depth of water
				     and silt)

				  Duration of flooding

				  Bacterial content of floodwater

				  Likelihood of contamination from
				     sewage or other bacterial
				     contaminants

  2. In general, fruits and vegetables which
       were immature at the time of flooding should be safe to eat by
       the time they are ready to harvest.  For additional safety,
       disinfect produce and cook it before eating.

  3. Unless flooding was light and there is no
       danger of bacterial contamination from floodwater, do not use
       fruits and vegetables that were ready for harvest at the time of
       flooding unless they are disinfected, peeled and thoroughly
       cooked.  Some fruits and vegetables are more susceptible than
       others to bacterial contamination.

				  Leafy vegetables such as lettuce,
				     cabbage, mustard, kale, collards,
				     spinach, swiss chard, celery, and
				     fleshy vegetables and berry fruits
				     such as tomatoes, summer squash,
				     strawberries and peppers are
				     highly susceptible to bacterial
				     contamination.

				  Silt and other contaminants may be
				     imbedded in the leaves,
	  petioles, stems or other natural
	    openings of fleshy structures and can be difficult to
	    remove.

				  Root, bulb and tuber crops such as
				     beets, carrots, radishes, turnips,
				     onions and potatoes are less
				     susceptible to bacterial
				     contamination.  Disinfect these
				     vegetables, peel and cook them
				     thoroughly before eating.

				  Produce with a protected fruit or
				     impervious outer skin such as
				     peas, melons, eggplant, sweet corn
				     or winter squash should be washed
				     and disinfected before the outer
				     shell skin or husk is removed.
				     Then shell, peel or husk the
				     produce and cook it if possible.

  4. Thoroughly wash and disinfect any
       produce before eating.

				  Wash in a strong detergent solution
				     with a scrub brush.  Remove all
				     silt.

				  Immerse produce for 15 to
				     20 minutes in a chlorine
				     solution.  Household bleaches
				     contain from 2 to 6 percent
				     chlorine.  The amount of bleach to
				     add to water depends on the
				     percentage chlorine it contains:
	  2 percent 3/4 tablespoon/quart; 4 percent 1 teaspoon/quart; 6
	  percent 1/2 teaspoon/quart).

				  Rinse thoroughly with safe drinking
				     water.

				  Peel if possible and cook
				     thoroughly before eating.

				  Refer any specific questions to
				     health authorities or your county
				     Extension agent.

    Notes:
	       Checking Flood-damaged Buildings


  1. Use extreme caution when entering any
       damaged building.

  2. If you must enter at night, carry a
       flashlight or other light.

  3. If gas lines are broken, turn off gas at
       the meter or tank.

  4. Do not smoke or use any open flame.

  5. Watch for loose plaster and ceilings that
       could fall.

  6. Open as many doors and windows as
       possible to remove moisture, odors and flammable or toxic
       gases.  If windows are stuck tight, take off window strips and
       remove entire sash.  If doors are stuck, drive out door hinge
       pins with a screwdriver and hammer, and remove doors.

  7. If you are not qualified to judge the
       stability of a foundation, hire a contractor to make this
       inspection.

     A neighborhood might join together in
       hiring a contractor for this work.

  8. Examine foundations and supports for
       undermining.  If walls or foundations have settled or cracked,
       uncover footings and raise, reinforce or brace any settled
       sections.

     Be extremely careful when uncovering
       footings, because of the possibility of cavernous washouts.

  9. If underlying material has been washed
       away, fill spaces to within 12 inches of the footing with gravel
       or crushed rock.

     Fill the remaining space with concrete
       reinforced with steel rods.  10.     Check piers for settling or
  shifting.

  11.     If the building has shifted or the floors
	    have settled badly, it may be necessary to install
	    temporary bracing until extensive work can be done.

  12.     Drain any crawl spaces which contain
	    water.

  13.     Wash out mud, dirt and debris as soon
	    as possible with a hose and mop, cloth or sponge.  Clean
	    walls and floors before silt or mud dries.

  14.     Start cleaning from the top floor or
	    upper limit of flooding and work downward toward the first
	    floor or basement.

  15.     Check walls with a level or plumb bob.

  16.     Brace walls where necessary.

  17.     Check mudsills, plates, soles and
	    anchorage.  Replace or repair where necessary, using
	    redwood, cedar or treated lumber.

  18.     To speed up drying of flooded studding
	    and insulation, remove all siding strips or plaster from
	    upper and lower parts of the walls.  Do not repaint walls
	    until they are completely dry.

				  This may take several months.
				     Flooded insulation may be ruined.

  19.     Remove loose plaster.  After house is
	    completely dry, repair damaged plaster on walls and
	    ceilings.  Badly damaged plaster walls can be resurfaced
	    with gypsum board or plywood.

		      (continued next page) Checking Flood Damaged
	       Buildings
			 (continued)


  20.     Flooded wooden floors will dry out
	    slowly.  Don't build fires to speed up their drying, as
	    this could cause cracking or splitting from uneven drying.
	    However, if the central heating system is operating, keep
	    the temperature of the house at 60 to 70F to hasten drying without causing additional problems.

  21.     To prevent further buckling and
	    warping, drive nails where the floor tends to lift or
	    bulge.

  22.     After floors are completely dry, plane or
	    sand them level.

  23.     If floors are too badly damaged to be
	    refinished, lay a new floor over the old, or cover with
	    carpet, vinyl or linoleum.
  24.     If a concrete floor is badly damaged,
	    break it up and install a new floor.

     If damage is minor, patch with a rich
       mixture of concrete containing no coarse gravel aggregate.

  25.     Use plastic sheeting or roll roofing for
	    temporary repair on solid deck roofs covered with asphalt
	    shingles, wood shingles or roll roofing.

  26.     Use knife consistency patching
	    compounds to repair minor leaks.

  27.     You probably will have to replace
	    damaged metal roofing on spaced roof decks.


    Notes:
	   Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements


  Before you enter a flooded basement:

  1. Turn off the electricity, preferably at the
       meter.

  2. Check outside cellar walls for possible
       cave-ins, evidence of structural damage or other hazards.

  3. Turn off gas or fuel service valves.

  4. Open doors and windows or use blowers
       to force fresh air into the basement.

  5. Do not use an electric pump powered by
       your own electrical system.  Use a gas-powered pump or one
       connected to an outside line.  Fire departments in some
       communities may help with such services.

				  More damage may be done by
				     pumping water from the basement
				     too soon or too quickly, than from
				     letting the floodwater remain.
				     Water in the basement helps brace
				     the walls against the extra
				     pressure of water-logged soil
				     outside.

				  If water is pumped out too soon,
				     walls may be pushed in or floors
				     pushed up.

				  To help prevent such structural
				     damage, pump the water from the
				     basement in stages.  Remove about
				     one-third of the water each day.
				     Watch walls for signs of failing.
				     If the outside water level rises
				     again after the day's pumping,
				     start with a new water line.  The
				  soil may be very slow to drain,
				     but do not hurry the pumping.
				     Whatever is submerged in the
				     flooded basement will not be
				     damaged further.  By delaying the
				     pumping, serious structural damage
				     may be prevented.

  6. After water has been pumped from the
       basement, shovel out the mud and debris while it is still
       moist.  Hose down walls to remove as much silt as possible
       before it dries.  Floors and walls may need sanitizing,
       particularly if sewage has entered the basement.  Scrub walls
       and floors with one of these sanitizing solutions:

				  Chloride of lime (25 percent
				     available chlorine).  Dissolve a
				     12-ounce can in 2 gallons of
				     water.

				  High test hypochlorate (65 percent
				     available chlorine) Stir 5 ounces
				     into 2 gallons of water.

  7. Oil stains in basements caused by
       overturned or damaged oil tanks may be a problem following
       flooding.  Commercial products (such as Neutrodal ) will help
       neutralize fuel oil.

				  Products are available in powder
				     form or an aerosol spray for
				     hard-to-reach places.

				  To remove oil stains and destroy
				     odor, wipe up excess oil, shake or
				     spray product on the spot
				     according to manufacturer's
				     directions, and let it set.

		      (continued next page)
	   Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements
			 (continued)


  8. Check supporting columns, beams, walls
       and floors.  Structural damage to flooded basements usually
       includes buckled walls, settled walls or heaved floors.

  9. Buckled walls are evidenced by
       horizontal cracking and walls moving out of plumb.  When this
       condition is minor, you need not repair the wall immediately.
       However, any noticeably buckled wall will eventually collapse
       from normal ground pressures and seasonal temperature changes.

				  When buckling has seriously
				     weakened the wall, rebuild the
				     damaged parts immediately.  Build
				     pilaster into walls over 15 feet
				     long for reinforcement.  Pilaster
				     spacing should be 12 to 15 feet.

  10.     Settled walls and footings are indicated
	    by vertical cracks either in small areas or throughout the
	    structure.  Repairs are difficult without special
	    equipment.  Contact a reliable contractor for this work.
  11.     Heaved floors are those that have not
	    returned to their original level, or have cracked badly.
	    You may need to construct a new floor:

				  Remove old, broken concrete.

				  Place 6 inches of gravel fill on the
				     basement floor surface.

				  Cover area with a polyethylene
				     vapor barrier.

				  Lay a 4-inch concrete floor with
				     water proof expansion joints
				     between the floor and the walls.
				     The floor should be reinforced
				     with steel.

				  Welded wire reinforcement placed
				     at mid-height in the slab is
				     minimum reinforcement.

  12.     If a floor is badly cracked, but has
	    returned to its original level, and if there is sufficient
	    headroom, place a new floor over the old one.  Add a vapor
	    barrier between the two floors.  The new floor should be at
	    least 2 inches thick.

  13.     In houses without basements, the area
	    below the floor may be completely filled with mud.  Remove
	    the mud as soon as possible to avoid rotting joists or
	    foundation wood.  Jack up the house, if necessary, to make
	    sure all mud is removed.


    Notes:
	     Finding and Repairing Leaks in Roofs


  Causes of Leaks

    Defective flashing.  Wet spots near a
       chimney or outside wall may mean the leak is caused by defective
       flashing, narrow flashing or loose mortar joints.

     On sloping roof valleys and at junctions
       of dormers and roof, look for corroded, loose or displaced
       flashing.  Defective flashing often occurs around dormers and
       plumbing vent pipes.

    Clogged downspouts or eaves.  Check
       for choked downspouts on flat roofs.  Accumulated water or snow
       on the roof above the flashing may cause a leak.  Ice
       accumulations on eaves can form ridges that cause melting snow
       under the eaves to back up.

    Cracks and deterioration.  Roofing
       (especially wood or composition shingles) usually deteriorates
       first on southern exposures.  Check southern slopes for cracking
       or deterioration.

    Holes.  Wet spots on plain roofs usually
       are caused by missing shingles or holes in the roofing.  To find
       holes, look for light coming through places in unsealed attics.
       Stick a straw through the hole to mark the spot on the outside.
  Repairing Leaks

  Methods of repair will depend on the kind of roofing and the nature
  and extent of the leak.

  1. Replace missing shingles with similar
       shingles or pieces of rust-resistant metal.  (In an emergency
       you can use metal cut from a tin can.)

				  Paint the metal on both sides and
				     slip it under the upper layer of
				     shingles.  Be careful not to
				     dislodge or loosen sound
				     shingles.

				  Cut out old nails with a long thin
				     cold chisel.

				  Cover exposed nails with roofer's
				     cement.

  2. Patch small holes with metal screws.
       Use neaprene washers in low places.

  3. Repair large holes by replacing metal
       sheets or patching with a heavy cloth or canvas and elastic
       roofer's cement.  Apply cement carefully over the patch to
       prevent canvas from sagging into the hole.

  4. To repair cracks in the roof:

				  Place heavy cloth or light canvas
				     over the cracked area, extending
				     the cloth approximately 6 inches
				     beyond the cracked area.

				  Use a roofing brush to smooth out
				     cloth, and brush on two thin coats
				     of roof coating.  Keep cloth
				     smooth while brushing.


    Notes:
	       Controlling Rodents After Floods


  1. Rats and other rodents often move into
       buildings to escape flood waters.  Rats can carry disease and
       small vermin.  They should be eliminated as soon as possible.

  2. Because of the danger of rat infestation,
       use caution when entering flooded buildings.

				  Carry a solid club and a flashlight.

				  Inspect likely hiding places for
				  rats.
				     Check closets, furniture, drawers,
				     mattresses, stacks of clothes or
				     paper, appliances, upholstered
				     furniture, dark corners, attics
				     and basements.

				  Be extremely careful when
				     approaching rats.  A starving rat
				     can be dangerous.

  3. Eliminate rat populations by poisoning
       rats that can't be destroyed by clubbing or trapping.  Use rat
       control measures as recommended by your county Extension agent.
       Be extremely careful when using rat poison or bait, especially
       if there are children in the house.  4. After infestation has
  been controlled,
       clean up rat harboring places.  (Rats may move into buildings
       when their hiding places are removed.)  Remove trash piles and
       piles of damaged furniture or equipment.  Store materials on
       platforms or shelves 1 to 18 inches above the ground.

  5. Remove food sources.  Store food
       supplies in rat-proof bins or containers.  Suspend garbage
       containers from trees or posts.  Remove animal carcasses which
       may attract rats.  Do not leave scraps of food around.

  6. Maintain several permanent rat bait
       stations in strategic locations, even after rat infestation has
       been controlled.  This should eliminate rats that can migrate
       from neighboring areas, and will help prevent another
       infestation.  Inspect baits frequently and replace them with
       fresh material whenever necessary.

  7. If you are bitten by a rat, take the rat to
       your local health authorities or a veterinarian.  The animal
       should be checked for rabies.


  Notes:

	       Controlling Insects After Floods


  1. Eliminate breeding spots.

				  Empty water from barrels, old
				     tires, cans and other vessels.
				     (This water may be polluted by
				     floodwaters and may be a health
				     hazard, in addition to being a
				     breeding place for insects.)
				     Also, check clogged gutters and
				     flat roofs which have poor
				     drainage.  Make sure cisterns,
				     cesspools, septic tanks, fire
				     barrels and rain barrels are
				     covered tightly.

				  Whenever possible, drain ponds,
				     pools or any standing water in
				     which mosquitoes may breed.

				  Dispose of refuse.  Bury animal
				     carcasses as soon as possible.
				     Bury or burn garbage at least once
				     every week.  Be sure garbage cans
				     have tightly fitting lids.  When
				     using manure and garbage as
				     fertilizer, spread it thinly so it
				     will dry quickly and not support
				     fly development.  Clean up
				  debris.  In some climates,
				     scorpions may seek refuge in and
				     around buildings during flood
				     conditions.  During the day they
				     hide beneath loose stones, loose
				     bark of fallen trees, boards,
				     piles of lumber, and within walls
				     of buildings.

  2. Patch screens and other places where
       mosquitoes may enter buildings.  Paint screens with an
       insecticide solution recommended by your county Extension
       agent.

  3. Use a household spray or an aerosol
       bomb to kill mosquitoes, flies or other insects that get into
       buildings.  Do not apply oil-based sprays to flowers or
       ornamental plants.  Spray shrubbery and shaded areas of
       buildings to kill adult insects.  Contact your county Extension
       agent for specific recommendations.

  4. If possible, keep small children indoors,
       especially in the evening.  Persons who must go outside at dusk
       should use a repellent on exposed parts of the body and
       clothing.


    Notes:
      Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers



  In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
  pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
  measures.



  Preparing For a Flood or Flash Flood on Your Farm or Ranch


  1. If you graze livestock in areas subject to
       flash flooding, consider using the area for larger animals.
       Pigs and calves are less likely to survive a flood than larger
       animals.  2. Leave animals an exit route to higher
       ground when possible.  Animals will not always use an exit
       wisely.

  3. If heavy rains are expected, pen animals
       on high ground at night.



	     Protecting Livestock During a Flood


  Livestock that are not in a confined area usually can take care of
  themselves during floods.  Do not let them become trapped in
  low-lying pens.

  In broad, level flood plains where flood waters are seldom deeper
  than 3 or 4 feet, construct mounds of soil on which livestock can
  stay until flood waters recede.  Or carry bales of hay for hogs to
  climb on.  Try to locate these mounds where they will not be washed
  away by fast flowing water.

  1. Provide feed and water.  Water is
       essential.  Thirsty animals will try to break out to get to
       flood waters.  If water is in short supply, limit feed intake.

  2. If animals are housed with machinery,
       fasten bales of straw in front of sharp edges and protruding
       parts such as cutter bars or crank handles.

				  Do not use hay because animals
				     will eat it.  Try to cover wooden
				  paddle wheels
				     on combines or choppers because
				     these parts can be dangerous if
				     partially broken.

  3. Block off narrow passageways where
       animals would be unable to turn around.  A few heavy animals in
       a narrow dead end can be dangerous both to themselves and the
       building.

  4. Be absolutely sure that herbicides,
       pesticides and treated seeds are not even remotely accessible to
       livestock and are stored where flood water will not contaminate
       livestock feed or water.

  5. Turn off electricity at the main switch.
       Livestock could damage electric fixtures, causing fires or
       electrocutions.

  6. If there is a possibility that dairy barns
       may become inundated, drive cattle out of the barn.  During a
       rapid rise of water, cattle often refuse to leave the barn and
       may drown if the water rises high enough.


	       Preparing to Evacuate Your Farm


  Ensure family safety first.  See the General Family Preparedness
  section for more information on evacuation procedures.  Be certain
  you have enough time to get to higher ground before access is cut
  off.  If you have time before you receive an evacuation order, the
  following precautions may help you protect your farm buildings,
  livestock and equipment from flood damage:

  1. Move machinery, feed, grain, pesticides
       and herbicides to higher elevations.

  2. Construct mounds of soil for livestock,
       or open gates so livestock can escape high water.

     Small numbers of hogs can sometimes
       be saved by bringing them bales of hay to climb on.

  3. Animals swim well.  The greatest
       problem for grazing animals will be fences and other obstacles.
       Try to drive stock through water free of obstructions.

     Long swims through calm water are
       safer than short swims through a swift current.

  4. Leave building doors and windows open
       at least 2 inches to equalize water pressure and help prevent
       buildings from shifting.

  5. If possible, move motors and portable
       electric equipment to a dry location.

  6. Disconnect electric power to all
       buildings which may be flooded.  Call your utility company if in
       doubt about how to disconnect power electric.  7. Dairymen who
  anticipate extensive
       flooding should:

				  Check with a veterinarian to be
				     sure cattle are properly immunized
				     before being exposed to flood
				     waters.

				  Check with the Department of
				     Health concerning approval of
				     temporary milking facilities.

				  Try to obtain standby equipment or
				     services for emergency milk
				     pickup.

				  When possible, move grain out of
				     reach of flood water.

  8. Tie down lumber, logs, irrigation pipes,
       fuel tanks and other loose equipment or material.

  9. Prepare immovable power units and
       machinery for flooding.

				  Seal radiator openings (tighten caps
				     and plug overflow).

				  Remove air cleaners and
				     carburetors; seal openings.  Use
				     material strong enough to
				     withstand water pressure.

				  Fill oil reservoirs.  Plug breather
				     pipes and openings.

				  Fill bearings with fresh lubricant.

				  Protect open gears, sprockets,
				     pulleys and wearing and cutting
				     edges of machinery with lubricant
				     or rust inhibitor.

				  Drape polyethylene sheeting over
				     bell ends of motor.  Tie securely
				     with cord on cylindrical part of
				     motor housing, or fasten with a
				     strong rubber band.


		Safety Rules for Farm Clean-up


  1. Delay permanent repairs until buildings
       are thoroughly dry.

  2. Spread wet feeds to dry.  Avoid feeding
       wet feeds to livestock unless absolutely necessary.

  3. To avoid a fire hazard, move wet hay
       outside and spread it out to dry.

  4. Move livestock to unflooded pastures to
       prevent disease.

  5. Get rid of pests such as rodents, snakes
       and insects.

  6. Promptly dispose of animal carcasses.

  7. Disassemble, clean, dry and lubricate
       farm machinery.  Do not start motors or engines until they are
       cleaned and reconditioned.  8. Clear and open drains, ditches,
       channels, small streams and tile-drain outlets.  Drain
       floodwater, if possible, from fields.

  9. Plug breaks in dikes; use temporary
       structures to stop breaks and prevent further high water.

  10.     Clear debris, especially barbed wire and
	    other materials which could be dangerous to livestock, from
	    lots and fields.

  11.     Avoid overexertion and strain in lifting
	    and moving heavy objects or loads.

  12.     When using kerosene, keep away from
	    heat, sparks and open flame.



    Notes:             Hazardous Materials Accidents



Hazardous Materials Accidents. . . . . . . . . . . . 87
			       Preparing for Hazardous Materials
			       Accidents in the Home 88 What to Do If a
			       Hazardous Materials Accident Occurs 90
			       After a Hazardous Materials Incident 91
			       Reacting to a Hazardous Spill in Your
			       Home 92 Special Considerations for
			       Agricultural Producers 93
				  What to do if a Hazardous Materials
				  Accident Occurs 93 After a Hazardous
				  Materials Accident 93




		Hazardous Materials Accidents





  Hazardous materials are substances which, because of their chemical,
  biological or physical nature, pose a potential risk to life, health
  or property if they are released.  Potential hazards can occur during
  any stage of use from production and storage to transportation, use
  or disposal.  Production and storage occurs in chemical plants, gas
  stations, hospitals and many other sites.  Hazardous materials
  accidents can range from a chemical spill on a highway to groundwater
  contamination by naturally occurring methane gas to a household
  hazardous materials accident.  Radiological accidents involving a
  specific hazardous material will be covered in another section of
  this handbook.  In addition to the information provided in the
  following pages, you should also refer to the General Family
  Preparedness section of this handbook.

    Be familiar with the local warning and notification methods.

    Contact your local emergency planning committee to find out where
       reportable quantities of extremely hazardous materials are
       stored and used in your area.

    Ask about community response plans if there is a hazardous
    materials
       accident at a plant or facility, or a hazardous materials
       transportation accident.




   Preparing for Hazardous Materials Accidents in the Home


  1. Go on a home hazard hunt.  Some
       cleaners can cause an explosion or fire if they come in contact
       with each other, water, heat or flames.

  2. Make a list of the hazardous products
       you have in your home.  List the name of the product and
       emergency care information.

  3. Store hazardous household products
       according to safety recommendations.

				  Store hazardous materials in a safe,
				     dry location.

				  Be sure all containers are closed to
				     avoid spills and escaping vapors.

				  Store flammable products and
				     corrosive products in separate
				     locations.  The label will
				     indicate if the product is
				     corrosive or flammable.

				  Place oily polishing rags or waste in
				     covered metal cans.

				  Never store aerosols on or near
				     fireplaces, radiators, space
				     heaters, wood stoves, pilot
				     lights, furnaces and kitchen
				     appliances.

				  Keep herbicides and pesticides
				     away from any heat source.

				  Store herbicides separately from
				     pesticides.  Herbicide vapors can
				     contaminate other products.

				  Store pesticides and herbicides
				     away from fertilizer.  Their
				     vapors can contaminate
				     fertilizers.  Periodically check
				  hazardous
				     product containers for
				     deterioration and possible leaks.

				  Check periodically to be sure that
				     labels on hazardous products are
				     secure and readable.

				  Store hazardous products on high
				     shelves or in locked cabinets to
				     prevent poisoning of children and
				     pets.

				  Do not store flammable liquids
				     such as gasoline and kerosene in a
				     garage or utility room attached to
				     the house.

				  Never store flammable liquids or
				     even a lawn mower filled with
				     gasoline near a heat source such
				     as gas water heaters, furnaces,
				     radiators, space heaters, etc.
				     Spontaneous combustion can occur
				     if the flammable liquid vapors
				     escape.

  4. To prevent household hazardous
       materials from being spilled during a disaster such as a flood,
       fire or earthquake, take the following preventive measures:

				  Securely fasten shelves where
				     hazardous materials are stored.

				  Store incompatible products in
				     separate locations so they will
				     not come in contact with each
				     other.

				  Label the shelves where flammable
				     products are stored.

				  Store hazardous materials in a
				     metal cabinet to protect them from
				     fire.

		      (continued next page)
   Preparing for Hazardous Materials Accidents in the Home
			 (continued)


				  Dry off containers that get wet in a
				     flood.  Move them off damp shelves
				     until the shelf material has dried
				     thoroughly.

				  Check labels on wet containers and
				     reglue or tape them securely
				     before they come off completely.

  5. Be aware of how different chemicals
       may react during mixed spills.  Some common chemicals and their
       dangers are:

				  Kitchen
					Cleansers (reactive) Detergents
					(reactive) Cooking oil
					(flammable) Aerosols (explosive
					in fire)

				  Bathroom
					Aerosols (explosive in fire)
					Alcohol (flammable) Nail polish
					remover (flammable) Medicines
					(see label)

				  Bedrooms
					Aerosols (explosive in fire)
					Gun ammunition (explosive in
					  fire) Medicines (see label)
				  Workshops
					Paints (toxic) Paint thinner
					(toxic, flammable) Adhesives
					(toxic, flammable)

				  Garage
					Gasoline (toxic, flammable)
					Antifreeze (toxic, flammable)
					Brake fluid (toxic, Flammable)
					Transmission fluid (toxic,
					  flammable) Oil (flammable)

				  Laundry Room
					Detergents (reactive) Cleansers
					(reactive) Bleach (reactive)

				  Gardening
					Pesticides (toxic, reactive)
					Fertilizers (toxic, reactive,
					most
					  flammable or explosive when
					  mixed with gasoline)

				  General
					Natural gas (flammable,
					  explosive) Sewer gases from
					broken sewer
					  pipes (toxic, explosive)



    Notes:
     What to Do If a Hazardous Materials Accident Occurs


  1. If you witness a hazardous materials
       accident, spill or leak, call 911, your local emergency number
       or the fire department as soon as possible.

  2. Stay away from the incident site to
       minimize your chances of contamination.

  3. If you are caught outside during an
       incident try to stay upstream, uphill and upwind.  Hazardous
       materials can be transported quickly by water and wind.

				  In general, try to go at least  mile
				     (10 city blocks) from the accident
				     area.

				  If you are in a vehicle, close off
				     ventilation and close the windows
				     to reduce contamination or
				     inhalation of the hazardous
				     material.

  4. If you are told to evacuate, do so
       immediately.

     Before leaving your home or office,
       close all windows, shut vents and turn off attic fans to
       minimize contamination.

  5. In some circumstances, it is safer to
       keep community residents inside.  This is known as "in-place
       sheltering."   If you are instructed to stay inside:

				  Follow all instructions carefully.

				  Seal entry routes as efficiently as
				     possible.  Close windows and doors
				     and seal drafty places with wet
				     towels, blankets or duct tape.
				  Turn off furnaces, air conditioners,
				     vents and fans to keep fumes from
				     entering the house.

				  If dangerous fumes do enter the
				     home, take shallow breaths through
				     a cloth or towel.

				  Quickly fill up your bathtub with a
				     supply of uncontaminated water and
				     turn off the intake valve to your
				     home.

				  Stay in protected areas of the house
				     (bathroom, stairwell, basement)
				     where toxic vapors are less likely
				     to penetrate.

				  Close all fireplace dampers.

				  Seal any gaps around window air
				     conditioning units, bathroom and
				     kitchen exhaust fan grilles and
				     stove and dryer vents with tape
				     and plastic sheeting, wax paper or
				     aluminum wrap.

				  If local authorities warn of an
				     outdoor explosion, close all
				     drapes, curtains and shades.  Stay
				     away from windows to prevent
				     injury from breaking glass.

  6. Avoid contact with any spilled liquid
       materials, airborne mist or condensed solid chemical deposit.

     Keep your body fully covered and wear
       gloves, socks and shoes, even  though these measures may offer
       minimal protection.

  7. Avoid eating or drinking any food or
       water that may be contaminated.

    Notes:
	     After a Hazardous Materials Incident


  1. Do not return home until authorities say
       it is safe.

  2. Upon returning home, open windows
       and vents, and turn on fans to provide ventilation.

  3. A person or item that has been exposed
       to a hazardous material may be contaminated and could
       contaminate other people or items.  If you have come in contact
       with or been exposed to hazardous materials:

				  Follow decontamination instructions
				     from your local authorities.

				  Stay away from water or showers
				     until you know if the material
				     reacts with water.

				  Seek medical treatment for unusual
				     symptoms that may be related to
				     hazardous materials release.  If
				  medical help is not available
				     immediately and you believe you
				     may be contaminated, remove all of
				     your clothing and shower
				     thoroughly (unless authorities
				     advise otherwise).  Change into
				     fresh, loose, warm clothing and
				     seek medical help as soon as
				     possible.

				  Place exposed clothing and shoes in
				     tightly sealed container without
				     allowing them to touch other
				     materials and call local
				     authorities to find out about
				     proper disposal.

				  Advise others who come in contact
				     with you that you may have been
				     exposed to a toxic substance.

  4. Report any lingering vapors or other
       hazards to your local emergency services.

  5. Find out from local authorities how to
       clean up your land and property.


  Notes:

	  Reacting to a Hazardous Spill in Your Home


  1. If the spill is large and too big for one
       person to control and clean up, cal 911 or your local emergency
       number as soon as possible.

  2. Keep the area of the spill from
       spreading.  Set up barriers and ventilate the area if it is
       inside the home or garage.  Keep children and pets away.

  3. Check label for instructions about
       contact.

				  Wear rubber gloves and boots.

				  Wear long pants and a long sleeved
				     shirt to avoid skin contact.

  4. Clean up as soon as possible.

				  Don't flush the spill away with a
				     hose.

				  If dust or powder is spilled, limit
				     air movement in the area and pick
				     up the material in a way that
				     minimizes making the dust or
				     powder airborne.

				  If liquid is spilled, cover it with
				  an
				     absorbent material such as kitty
				     litter, paper towels or old rags.
				  Sweep or scoop the solids and the
				     original container into a plastic
				     bag, also scoop up any
				     contaminated dirt or gravel.  Seal
				     the plastic bag.

				  Scrub the area with detergent or
				     water.

				  For very toxic liquid substances
				     such as pesticides, cover again
				     with absorbent materials and sweep
				     or scoop up the absorbent into a
				     plastic bag.

				  Scrub repeatedly until traces of the
				     chemical are gone.

  5. Place all cloths in a used plastic bag.
       Double bag, seal and label.

  6. Completely rinse the area and any tools
       used.

  7. Dispose of contaminated materials in an
       appropriate manner according to directions on the label.

  8. If the spill is a very toxic product,
       decontaminate clothing and equipment to avoid contaminating your
       home and others.  Follow the same decontamination procedures you
       would for a toxic spill outside the home.


    Notes:
      Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers



  In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
  pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
  measures.  Also refer to the section on General Family Preparedness.

  Prevent a hazardous materials accident by making sure agricultural
  chemicals are properly stored.  Follow instructions on labels.





     What to do if a Hazardous Materials Accident Occurs


  1. Follow the same response procedures
       outlined in the first part of this section.

  2. If livestock are downwind, downhill or
       downstream of the incident move them as far from the area as
       possible.  3. Do not enter the area or attempt to reach
       animals if you must pass the area of incident.

  4. Refer to the Radiological Accidents
       section for information on protecting food and water sources.




	     After a Hazardous Materials Accident


  1. Monitor animals for signs of illness that
       may be associated with the accident.  2. Contact local
  authorities for information
       on the cleanup of land and animals.


    Notes:                       Hurricanes



Hurricanes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
			       How and Where Hurricanes Form 94 Why
			       Hurricanes are a Risk to People 95 How
			       to Prepare for a Hurricane 96 Actions
			       During a Hurricane Situation 97 Basic
			       Response After a Hurricane 98 Special
			       Considerations for Agricultural
			       Producers 99
				  Turf Grass Recovery After a Storm
				  Surge 99 Recovering Small Fruits101

				    Hurricanes



		How and Where Hurricanes Form

  Counterclockwise winds draw heat and moisture from the tropical
  ocean, contributing to the formation of an intense and strong
  tropical cyclone.  Hurricane proportions are reached when winds are
  sustained at 74 miles per hour (mph) or more.  This air revolves
  around a relatively calm 20- to 30-mile-wide eye, spreading outward
  almost 400 miles.  As the storm moves forward at about 15 mph, it
  releases heavy rains and accelerating winds and causes the ocean to
  swell.  Hurricanes may be preceded by a tornado in the right front
  quadrant.  Losing some intensity as it approaches land, the storm
  brings severe rains, wind and storm surges that inundate coastal
  areas.  Moving further inland, a hurricane loses strength but
  continues its outpouring of rain and high winds.

  Hurricanes are formed in the North Atlantic, Caribbean Sea, Gulf of
  Mexico and the Pacific Coast of Mexico.  The greatest likelihood of a
  hurricane striking land areas is along the Gulf Coast and the
  southeastern seaboard.  But hurricanes also have hit central
  Pennsylvania and the coast of New Jersey, New York and New England.

  Over land, hurricanes break up rapidly.  Cut off from their oceanic
  source of energy and with the added effects of frictional drag from
  land, their circulation rapidly weakens and becomes more
  disorganized.  Torrential rains, however, may continue even after the
  winds are much diminished.  In the southeastern United States, about
  one-fourth of the annual rainfall comes from dissipating hurricanes.

  The Atlantic hurricane season lasts from June through November.
  August and September are peak months.  There is no "season" for
  Pacific hurricanes.  Hurricanes occur north of the equator over the
  Atlantic and Pacific oceans.  Typhoons occur in the South Pacific.
  Tropical cyclones occur over the Indian Ocean.  All of these storms
  are the same phenomenon.





	     Why Hurricanes are a Risk to People


  Nearly 100 million Americans are at risk from hurricanes.  Hurricanes
  pose three major threats:

  1. Wind:  Hurricane winds exceed
       74 mph.  The winds of Hurricane Andrew were measured more than
       120 mph.  Hurricane winds cause buildings to rip apart, uproot
       unstable structures or objects, damage utility lines and
       threaten lives.  Wind damage can occur hundreds of miles
       inland.  Heavy rains in mountainous areas can cause flash
       flooding where there is little warning of this major threat to
       life and property.

  2. Heavy rain:  There are "dry" and "wet"
       hurricanes.  A "dry" hurricane moves quickly over land and may
       drop a total of 5 inches of rain or less.  These hurricanes
       usually do not pose much of a risk from flooding but usually can
       cause great wind damage.  "Wet" hurricanes can drop more than 9
       inches of rain per square mile and are slow moving.  They can
       stall, dropping 18 inches or more of rain in some areas.  3. A
  storm surge is a large dome of water
       pushed up in advance of a hurricane making landfall.  This dome
       of water can exceed 20 feet, depending on the strength of the
       hurricane.  It's important to differentiate storm surge from a
       tsunami (incorrectly referred to as a "tidal wave").  A storm
       surge is a large amount of water, on top of which there is heavy
       wave action.  A storm surge can last for several hours.

     The advancing storm surge combines
       with the normal tide to create the hurricane storm tide.  In
       addition, wind waves 5 to 10 feet high are superimposed on the
       storm tide.  This buildup of water level can cause severe
       flooding in coastal areas, particularly when the storm surge
       coincides with normal high tides.  In addition to the
       information you will find in this section also refer to the
       section on General Family Preparedness.


  Notes:

		How to Prepare for a Hurricane


  1. Know the risks of the area.  If you live
       in an Atlantic or Gulf Coastal state within 100 miles of the
       shore, or on Hawaii, Puerto Rico, the U.S. Virgin Islands, Guam,
       American Samoa or Palau, you are subject to devastating effects
       from hurricanes.

  2. Know what a hurricane "watch" and
       "warning" mean.

				  A Hurricane Watch means a
				     hurricane may hit your area.

				  A Hurricane Warning means a
				     hurricane is headed for your
				     area.  You may be told to move to
				     a shelter or evacuate the area.
				     Do so immediately.
  3. Review your family disaster plan.  (See
       the section on General Family Preparedness.)

				  Check straps and anchors for
				     manufactured homes, sheds and
				     outbuildings.

				  Install hurricane shutters or precut
				      -inch marine plywood for each
				     window of your home.  Install
				     anchors for the plywood and
				     predrill holes in it so that you
				     can put up the plywood quickly
				     when a WATCH is issued.

				  Make trees more wind resistant by
				     strategically removing branches so
				     that wind can blow through them.
				     Remove diseased or damaged limbs.

  4. Refer to the General Family
       Preparedness section for additional precautions you should
       take.


  Notes:

	     Actions During a Hurricane Situation


  1. During a watch (24 to 36 hours before
       landfall):

				  Cover ALL windows of your home.
				     If shutters are not installed, use
				     precut plywood.  If you do not
				     have plywood, do what you can to
				     protect windows from breaking.
				     Tape does not work.  Remove tree
				     limbs, branches, shrubbery and
				     other objects that can break
				     windows.

				  Recheck manufactured home tie-downs.

				  Listen to the advice of local
				     officials and leave if told to do
				     so.

				  Take in lawn furniture, outdoor
				     decorations or ornaments, trash
				     cans, hanging plants and anything
				     else that can be picked up by the
				     wind and become a missile of
				     destruction.
  2. During a warning (24 hours before
       landfall):

				  Evacuate if you are advised to do
				     so.  See the General Family
				     Preparedness section for steps
				     that should be taken.  Also see
				     the Floods section if heavy rains
				     or flooding are present.

				  If you are not advised to evacuate,
				     stay indoors and away from
				     windows.

				  Be aware of the calm "eye;" the
				     storm is not over.  The worst part
				     of the storm will happen when the
				     eye passes over and wind comes
				     from the opposite direction.
				     Trees, shrubs, buildings and other
				     objects damaged by the first winds
				     can be broken or destroyed by the
				     second winds, whose force is
				     opposite the direction of the
				     first winds.

				  Be alert for tornadoes.  Tornadoes
				     can happen during and after a
				     hurricane passes over.  Remain
				     indoors, in the center of your
				     home, in a closet or bathroom
				     without windows.  The section on
				     Tornadoes offers additional
				     information you will need if a
				     tornado occurs.


    Notes:
	       Basic Response After a Hurricane


  1. Wait until an area is declared safe before
       entering.

				  Roads may be closed because they
				     have been damaged or are covered
				     by water.  Barricades have been
				     placed for your protection.  If
				     you come upon a barricade or a
				     flooded road, go another way.

				  Keep listening to the radio for news
				     about what to do, where to go or
				     places to avoid.

  2. If you must walk or drive in areas that
       have been affected by the hurricane, stay on firm ground.
       Moving water only 6 inches deep can sweep you off your feet.
       Standing water may be electrically charged from underground or
       downed power lines.  3. Check gas, water and electrical lines
  and
       appliances for damage.

				  Use a flashlight to inspect for
				     damage.

				  If necessary, turn off main gas
				     valves and electrical switches or
				     fuses.  Have these services
				     restored by a professional.

  4. Use the telephone to report life-threatening emergencies only.

  5. If you need assistance, visit your local
       Red Cross service center or chapter facility.  State and federal
       agencies often provide assistance to individuals, families and
       businesses after larger storms.  Listen to the radio for
       information on how to obtain governmental assistance.

  6. Hurricanes bring a variety of associated
       problems.  Refer to the Floods, Tornadoes and General Family
       Preparedness sections for information on various hazard
       responses.


  Notes:

      Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers



  In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
  pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
  measures.




	   Turf Grass Recovery After a Storm Surge


  The surge of salt water brought inland by a hurricane can damage
  turfgrasses on lawns, golf courses, sod farms, parks, playgrounds,
  sports fields and leisure-recreation sites.

  1. Irrigation with clean, sodium-free, fresh
       water is probably the most important practice to follow when
       rinsing accumulated salts from turf leaf surfaces and leaching
       salts from root zones of soils.

				  Test all irrigation water sources for
				     salinity.

				  If the irrigation lake has been
				     flooded with salt water, pump it
				     out and fill with clean river or
				     well water.

				  You also can irrigate from a well or
				     river if not contaminated with
				     salt.

  2. Bermuda, zoysia, creeping bent and St.
       Augustine turfgrasses have good relative salinity tolerance.

				  Tall fescue and perennial ryegrass
				     have medium salinity tolerance.

				  Red fescue, Kentucky bluegrass,
				     and centipede grass have poor
				     relative salinity tolerance.
  3. Repeated irrigation with water
       containing 1200 parts per million (ppm) total soluble salts will
       be harmful to the turf unless followed by sufficient rainfall or
       fresh irrigation water.  Even irrigation water containing 500 to
       600 ppm total soluble salts, when used repeatedly without being
       flushed with fresh water from rainfall or irrigation, can create
       a problem by allowing salts to accumulate in the root zone of
       the soil.

  4. If it is overseeding time, remember that
       turf-type perennial ryegrasses have only medium tolerance to
       salinity.  Test the soils for salinity before overseeding to
       avoid a loss in stand of winter cover.

  5. Use gypsum (calcium sulfate, 18 percent
       sulfur, 20 percent calcium) to help leach salt from the soil.
       Gypsum works best when incorporated into the soil but it can be
       broadcast on the turf.  Gypsum is not very soluble in water but
       it is more soluble than limestone.

				  Irrigate after gypsum application to
				     move it into the soil surface and
				     root zone of the turf.  Allow a
				     period of time for the chemical
				     reaction, then continue irrigation
				     to leach the salts into soil below
				     the root zone.

		      (continued next page)
	   Turf Grass Recovery After A Storm Surge
			 (continued)


				  Poorly drained soils will be
				  difficult
				     to leach.  Water logging the soil
				     for extended periods of time can
				     be as harmful to the turf as
				     excess soluble salts.  Core
				  aerification or deep tine
				     aerification, preferably with
				     coring tines, can greatly assist
				     with improving infiltration and
				     percolation of water and salts
				     through the soil and below the
				     root zone.


  Notes:

		   Recovering Small Fruits


  Storm damage to small fruits shows itself in different ways,
  depending on crop growth habit as well as proximity to the storm.  In
  addition to wind, too much water, in some instances salt water, can
  adversely impact crops.

  The following suggestions will help fruit growers evaluate damage and
  take corrective action.

  1. Where wind damage is significant,
       pruning should be as light as possible.  However, if large areas
       of cambium are exposed, the plant probably will not survive
       without attention.  Make clean cuts to minimize the exposed
       cambium area.  If the plant can be saved, several growing
       seasons may be needed to retrain.

  2. Many plants that are leaning or uprooted
       can be reset if the root ball is intact.  Once reset, secure
       with stakes to immobilize them.

  3. Reshape altered dikes, terraces or raised
       planting beds to protect the area, cover exposed roots or
       provide a medium for new root growth.  Use the smallest
       equipment possible to accomplish the job to minimize compaction
       and reduce further root damage.

  4. If strawberry plants can be secured in
       the next 10 days, most plastic- culture plantings should be
       replanted.  The most expensive inputs, irrigation, plastic mulch
       and fumigation, are still intact, while plant costs are
       relatively small compared to these.  5. Premature defoliation
  caused by
       tremendous wind speeds will weaken fruits.  Defoliation coupled
       with root damage cause additional stress because the root system
       serves as a storage reservoir for carbohydrates manufactured by
       the leaves.

				  Without this reservoir of
				     carbohydrates to call on for
				     energy during the winter, the
				     plants may be saved in the short
				     run only to be killed during the
				     winter.

				  Once the top damage has been
				     pruned out and after the first
				     freeze, apply nitrogen in a
				     complete fertilizer at the rate of
				     30 pounds actual N per acre.  This
				     will help the plant start new root
				     growth, which will continue during
				     the winter as long as the soil
				     temperature is above 45F.

  6. Soil concentrations of 3,000 ppm soluble
       salt will make fruit culture very difficult.  However, some
       fruits are much more salt tolerant than others.

				  Grapes, figs, pomegranates and
				     pecans are examples of fruits that
				     will not be hurt by increased salt
				     concentrations as readily as
				     blueberries, strawberries and
				     blackberries.

				  If the soil salt concentration is
				  high,
				     irrigate frequently to help reduce
				     the buildup of salt following
				     evaporation.

    (continued next page)
		   Recovering Small Fruits
			 (continued)


				  Test all irrigation water for
				  salinity.
				     If irrigation ponds have been
				     contaminated, pump them out and
				     fill with clean river or well
				     water.

				  Rainfall, while complicating other
				     cleanup activities, aids in
				     flushing the soil.  If the sodium
				  content is 250 ppm or
				     more, internal drainage problems
				     will occur.  This can be corrected
				     somewhat by the use of gypsum as a
				     soil additive.  Apply at the rate
				     of 2 ounces (2  tons per acre) of
				     gypsum per square foot of area and
				     immediately irrigate to move the
				     material into the soil profile.


    Notes:                 Radiological Accidents



Radiological Accidents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
			       Radiation Types . . .104 Preparing for a
			       Nuclear Power Plant Accident105 What to
			       Do in a Nuclear Power Plant Emergency106
			       Safety of Home Gardens After a Nuclear
			       Accident107 Recovering Losses and
			       Expenses from a Nuclear Accident107
			       Special Considerations for Agricultural
			       Producers108
				  What to Do in a Nuclear Power Plant
				  Emergency108 Animal Care After a
				  Nuclear Accident109 Recovering
				  Exposed Fruits, Vegetables and
				  Soils110 Monitoring Fish and Marine
				  Life111 Marketing Animals and
				  Products111



		    Radiological Accidents






  Radiation is energy in the form of waves or particles and is part of
  our everyday lives.  Our planet receives radiation from outer space
  and from the sun.  Other naturally occurring radioactive materials
  are present in the soil, in the structures where we live, and in the
  food and water we consume.  These natural forms of radiation are
  referred to as "background radiation."

  Radioactive materials also are a source of fuel for nuclear power
  plants.  While the history of such plants in the United States has
  been generally safe, residents living near power plants should know
  what preparations and responses are appropriate to take in the event
  of a radiological accident.  In addition to the information in this
  section, also refer to the General Family Preparedness section.












		       Radiation Types


  The three basic forms of radiation are:

  1. Alpha particles can be stopped by a
       single sheet of paper or a few layers of dead skin.  Therefore,
       alpha radiation is not an external hazard.  However, if the
       source of radiation is within the body, it is the most serious
       hazard, because of alpha radiation's greater biological effects
       on live tissue.

  2. Beta particles can be stopped by a few
       layers of clothing, 10 feet of air or a half-inch of tissue.  If
       beta particles are retained in the skin, they can damage living
       cells by causing severe skin or eye burns.  They also can damage
       cells in the digestive tract if particles are ingested with food
       or water.  3. Gamma rays are similar to x-rays and
       are the major radiation of concern in radiological
       environments.  Gamma rays are deeply penetrating and can damage
       body cells.  Although all cells are subject to damage, bone
       marrow cells and cells in the intestinal lining seem to be
       particularly sensitive.  Gamma rays can be shielded to
       acceptable levels by sufficient amounts of materials.

  Radioactive materials can be released in the form of particles or
  gases.  Both are spread by the wind.  The farther the particles
  travel, the lower the concentration of radioactive material.
  Contamination is an undesired presence of radioactive materials.  In
  an accident that releases radiation into the environment, people,
  farm equipment, animals, crops and the soil can become contaminated.
  In addition to the following procedures, homeowners and agricultural
  producers also should refer to the section on General Family
  Preparedness.


  Notes:

	 Preparing for a Nuclear Power Plant Accident


  1. If you live near a power plant,
       familiarize yourself with the terms used to describe a nuclear
       emergency.

				  Notification of unusual event
				     means a small problem has occurred
				     at the plant.  No radiation leak
				     is expected.  No action is
				     necessary on your part.

				  Alert means a small problem has
				     occurred and small amounts of
				     radiation could leak inside the
				     plant.  You should not have to do
				     anything.

				  A site area emergency is a more
				     serious problem.  Small amounts of
				     radiation could leak from the
				     plant.  Area sirens may be
				     sounded.  Listen to your radio or
				     television for safety
				     information.  A general emergency
				  is the most
				     serious problem.  Radiation could
				     leak outside the plant and off the
				     plant site.  The sirens will
				     sound.  Tune to your local radio
				     or television station.  Be
				     prepared to follow state and
				     county officials instructions.

  2. Learn your community's warning
       system.  Nuclear power plants are required to install sirens and
       other warning systems to cover a ten-mile area around the
       plant.

  3. Obtain public emergency information
       materials from the company that operates your local nuclear
       power plant or from your local emergency services office.


    Notes:
	What to Do in a Nuclear Power Plant Emergency


  1. Keep calm.  Not all incidents result in
       the release of radiation.

  2. Stay tuned to local radio or television.
       Specific instructions will be given by authorities.
	  Local instructions should take
	    precedence over any advice given in this handbook.

  3. Evacuate if you are advised to do so.
       See the section on Evacuation Procedures in the General Family
       Preparedness section.  Keep car windows and vents closed; use
       recirculated air.

  4. If you are not advised to evacuate,
       remain indoors.

				  Close doors and windows.

				  Turn off the air conditioner,
				     ventilation fans, furnace and
				     other air intakes.

				  Go to a basement or other
				     underground area if possible.  If
				  you must go outdoors, cover
				     your nose and mouth with a
				     handkerchief.

  5. Do not use the telephone unless
       absolutely necessary.  All lines will be needed for emergency
       calls.

  6. If you have just been outdoors, take a
       thorough shower.

				  Change your clothes and shoes.

				  Put the items you were wearing in
				     a plastic bag.

				  Seal the bag and store it out of the
				     way.

				  Clothes can later be washed as you
				     normally would in the washing
				     machine.  Any contamination would
				     remain in the water and not
				     contaminate the washing machine.

  7. Put food in covered containers or in the
       refrigerator.  Food not previously in covered containers should
       be washed first.


    Notes:
       Safety of Home Gardens After a Nuclear Accident


  1. Test homegrown produce for radioactive
       contamination before it is consumed.

  2. If you work outside make sure you:

				  Wash hands thoroughly before
				     eating.

				  Wear protective clothing that covers
				     all portions of your body while
				     outside.  Remove outer clothing
				  before you
				     go inside.

				  Wear a dust mask or a folded,
				     damp cloth over your nose and
				     mouth while you work.

				  Avoid dust-producing activities as
				     much as possible.




    Recovering Losses and Expenses from a Nuclear Accident


  1.      Nuclear power station operators are
	    required to have insurance to cover damages suffered by the
	    public.  Additional living expenses, loss of farm or
	    business income, and physical or property damage are
	    covered.
  2. The Federal Emergency Management
       Agency also may provide funds for temporary housing and home
       repair, as well as other types of assistance.  See the section
       on General Family Preparedness for post-disaster assistance
       information.


  Notes:

      Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers




  In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
  pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
  measures.



	What to Do in a Nuclear Power Plant Emergency


  1. Shelter livestock and give them stored
       feed if advised to do so by authorities.

				  Some farm buildings provide better
				     protection than others because of
				     heavy construction.  Placing
				     earth, hay, sacked feed or
				     fertilizer, concrete blocks or
				     other materials around exposed
				     shelter walls will increase
				     shielding effectiveness.

				  Make sure that adequate ventilation
				     is provided.  If you must use a
				     fan, set it on a low speed to
				     avoid bringing in air from the
				     outside.

				  Give adequate space to more
				     valuable animals rather than
				     providing shelter for all animals
				     and risking losses from
				     overcrowding.

				  Natural shelters such as caves,
				     ravines, forests and wood lots
				     offer some protection.

				  Cattle could be penned in cattle
				     underpasses or bridges if
				     available.  Cattle confined in
				     pens shelter each other to a
				     limited extent.  Move dairy cattle
				  and goats indoors
				     first because radioactive material
				     easily transfers to milk.

  2. Do not add water to covered storage
       unless it is from a protected source.

  3. Protect standing water by covering the
       surface at the outset of an emergency.

  4. Cover feed to protect it from falling
       particles.  Protect haystacks in an open field with tarpaulins,
       plastic sheets or similar coverings.

  5. Poultry are somewhat more resistant to
       radiation than other farm animals.

				  Confined shelters and use of stored
				     feed also lower concern of
				     contamination.

				  The same feed, water and shelter
				     ventilation measures taken for
				     livestock should be followed to
				     reduce the likelihood of
				     contaminated egg and poultry
				     products.

  6. Swine care should follow the steps taken
       with other livestock.  Water is a primary necessity for hogs, so
       make sure the source is protected.


    Notes:
	     Animal Care After a Nuclear Accident


  1. Limit the use of feeds to those under
       cover or protected from contamination.

				  Grain in permanent indoor storage,
				     hay in a barn and silage in a
				     covered silo may be considered
				     protected.

				  Rolled bales of hay should be used
				     only when absolutely necessary,
				     and only if the outer layers are
				     removed and discarded.

				  Do not let animals graze until you
				     are notified that forage in your
				     area is safe.

				  If grazing cannot be avoided,
				     supplementing it with protected
				     feed will limit ingested
				     contamination.

				  If no stored feed is available,
				     animals can survive on water for a
				     period.

				  Make a special effort to prevent
				     dairy animals from becoming
				     contaminated by providing clean
				     food and water.

				  If possible, prevent cattle from
				     drinking from ponds, lakes, rivers
				     and streams.  Spring and well
				     water should be free of
				     contamination.
  2. If you have been evacuated and your
       absence is longer than the protected feed sources will last,
       emergency officials may allow you to reenter the area.

     You must conform to rules regarding
       emergency workers, including the use of protective equipment and
       instrumentation and limitation of stay.

  3. It is unlikely that even a worst case
       event would cause the death of any animals.

				  Any unexplained illness or death
				     would more likely be the result of
				     changes in routines of livestock
				     feeding and patterns of grazing.

				  In the event of death or illness of
				  an
				     animal contact your State
				     Department of Agriculture or
				     Extension agent immediately to
				     assist in diagnosis of the
				     problem.

  4. Soap and water will remove
       contamination from animal hides.

  5. Wear protective clothing similar to that
       used in pesticide application.


    Notes:
       Recovering Exposed Fruits, Vegetables and Soils


  1. Fruit and vegetables may be externally
       contaminated by radioactive particles.

				  Normal washing of leaves, pods
				     and fruits that are surface
				     contaminated is effective in
				     removing contamination.

				  Washing should be done in a place
				     other than the kitchen to prevent
				     contamination of foods and
				     dishes.

  2. Underground crops absorb little
       radiation.  Standard washing is sufficient for these foods.  3.
  Most land should be ready for normal
       agricultural use several weeks after the incident.

				  Officials can monitor and sample
				     your land, advising you when it is
				     appropriate to return to it.

				  If soil is highly contaminated,
				     removal and disposal may be
				     necessary.

				  Planting alternative crops such as
				     cotton or flax instead of food
				     crops may be recommended in some
				     situations.

				  Deep plowing will remove
				     radioactive substances below the
				     plant root level and prevent
				     plants from taking up contaminated
				     substances.


  Notes:

	       Monitoring Fish and Marine Life


  1. Fish and marine life in ponds may be
       harvested unless officials determine they are contaminated.  2.
  Samples of water, fish and marine life
       from open bodies of fresh and saltwater should be analyzed for
       contamination.




		Marketing Animals and Products


  1. A buffer zone, called a Food Control
       Area, will be established around land which may be
       contaminated.

  2. State emergency officials will monitor
       milk on farms and at points on its way to market.

				  You will be notified if sampled milk
				     contains radioactive materials.

				  Milk should be safe if it is from
				     dairy animals that have been
				     adequately sheltered and
				     protected.  There may be delays in
				  milk
				     pickups which will require holding
				     milk for longer periods of time.
				     Be prepared to provide alternate
				     storage or some milk may have to
				     be discarded.

  3. Do not destroy animal foods unless
       storage has made them inedible.

  4. Livestock that have been exposed to
       external contamination can be used for food if they have been
       washed well and monitored by authorities prior to slaughter.
       Meat animals that have internal contamination cannot be
       slaughtered until officials advise that it is safe to do so.


    Notes:                       Tornadoes



Tornadoes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112
			       How to Prepare for a Tornado113 Special
			       Precautions for Mobile Home Dwellers114
			       What to Do During a Tornado Warning115
			       Responses After a Tornado116 Inspecting
			       Buildings for Hidden Wind Damage116
			       Special Considerations for Agricultural
			       Producers117



			  Tornadoes





  Tornadoes are nature's most violent storms and can leave an area
  devastated in seconds.  A tornado appears as a rotating, funnel
  shaped cloud, striking the ground with whirling winds of up to 200
  miles per hour or more.  A tornado spins like a top and may sound
  like a train or an airplane.  Although tornadoes usually travel for
  up to 10 miles before they subside, 200-mile "tornado tracks" have
  been reported.  Tornadoes can strike any time of the year and often
  accompany hurricanes.  In addition to those measures listed in the
  General Family Preparedness section, also use the following tornado
  preparedness and response measures.












		 How to Prepare for a Tornado


  1. Know the tornado season for your area.

  2. Learn to recognize severe weather signs.
       Tornado weather is usually hot and humid with southerly winds.

  3. Know what a tornado looks and sounds
       like.  4. Know what a tornado watch or warning
       is:

    A Tornado Watch indicates that
       weather conditions may cause tornadoes or severe thunderstorms
       to develop in or near the watch area.  A watch does not mean a
       tornado has been sighted.

    A Tornado Warning means that a
       tornado has actually been sighted or indicated by radar and
       residents should take shelter.


  Notes:

	 Special Precautions for Mobile Home Dwellers


  1. When you purchase a mobile home, look
       for built-in safety features:

    Factory installed anchoring straps
       under the skin of the mobile home

    Steel binding of the mobile home
       top to the frame

    Covered bottom

  2. When selecting a mobile home park,
       consider the protection it offers your home against the wind.

    Consider lots with solid concrete
       foundations with steel anchor locations.

    Natural barriers such as older trees
       or small hills will help shelter your home.

    Locate your home so the small end
       is directed into the direction of prevailing winds, reducing
       surface exposure to wind impact.  3. Encourage your neighbors to
  tie down,
       too.  An unanchored mobile home blown into your home can cause
       extensive damage.

  4. Have your mobile home blocked
       properly.  Open concrete blocks are less expensive but are never
       good enough.

  5. Make sure you purchase approved tie-downs.

  6. Skirting your mobile home will help
       protect underneath the home from moisture and winter weather, as
       well as reduce soil heaving caused by soil thawing and freezing
       during winter months.  Soil heaving destabilizes the mobile
       home, requiring retightening of the tie-downs.

  7. Be aware of where designated tornado
       facilities or shelters are.


  Notes:

	     What to Do During a Tornado Warning


  1. When a tornado has been sighted, stay
       away from windows, doors and outside walls.  Protect your head
       from falling objects or flying debris.  Take cover wherever you
       are.

    In a house or small building, go to
       the storm cellar or basement.  If there is no basement, go to an
       interior part of the structure on the lowest level (closets,
       interior hallways).  In either case, get under something sturdy
       (such as a heavy table) and stay there until the danger has
       passed.  In a school, nursing home, hospital,
       factory or shopping center, go to a designated shelter area.
       Stay away from windows and open spaces.

    In a vehicle, trailer or mobile
       home, get out immediately and go to a more substantial
       structure.

    If there is no shelter nearby, lie flat
       in the nearest ditch, ravine or culvert with your hands
       shielding your head.

  2. Do not attempt to flee from a tornado in
       a car or other vehicle.


  Notes:

		  Responses After a Tornado


  1. Use great caution when entering a
       building damaged by high winds.  Be sure that walls, ceiling and
       roof are in place and that the structure rests firmly on the
       foundation.  2. Look out for broken glass and downed
       power lines.




	 Inspecting Buildings for Hidden Wind Damage


  1. Check the roof for:

    Missing or damaged shingles.

    Loose nails on metal roofing.  If
       nails don't hold when hammered back in, use #12 or #14 metal
       screws to fill old nail holes.

    Potential leaks that could indicate
       structural separation.  This is more easily checked for on sunny
       days.  2. Inspect the foundation to make sure that
       joints where the foundation and wall meet haven't separated.  On
       stone or concrete foundations, check to see that plate bolts
       have not worked loose.

  3. Inspect the interior of buildings for
       structural damage.

    Using a good light, check the
       framing.

    Look for ridge separation, loose
       knee braces and loose rafters where the rafters join the walls.


  Notes:

      Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers





  In addition to those tornado concerns listed previously, agricultural
  producers should inspect silos for hidden wind damage.

    Make sure the silo is still plumb.

    Look for loose hoops.

    Inspect the base of metal silos inside and out for hairline
    cracks.

    Remove any rust around the base with a wire brush.

    Look for new cracks in the plaster of empty concrete stave silos.



    Notes:                   Volcanic Eruptions



   Volcanic Eruptions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
      Preparing for a Volcanic Eruption. . . . . . .119 During a
      Volcanic Eruption . . . . . . . . . .120 Driving in Heavy Ash
      Areas . . . . . . . . . .121

				Volcanic Eruptions





  Volcanoes are eruptions from the earth's interior which can cause
  violent explosions of gases and rock.  Eruptions can cause lava
  flows, mudslides, avalanches, falling ash and floods.  Active
  volcanoes in the U.S.  are found mainly in Hawaii, Alaska and the
  Pacific Northwest.  Fresh volcanic ash, made of pulverized rock, can
  be harsh, acid, gritty, glassy and smelly.  While not immediately
  dangerous to most adults, the combination of acidic gas and ash which
  may be present within miles of the eruption can cause lung damage to
  small infants, very old people or those suffering from severe
  respiratory illnesses.















	      Preparing for a Volcanic Eruption


  1. Follow the information located in the
       General Family Preparedness section of the Handbook.

  2. Be familiar with terms associated with a
       volcanic eruption.

    Volcanic ash usually is erupted into
       the air above the volcano and then is carried downward along
       with volcanic gases.  Pieces of ash may range from dust sized
       particles to pieces of rock.  Ash can overload roofs, corrode
       metals, cause fabrics to decompose, clog machinery, block drains
       and water intakes and injure or kill vegetation.

    Lava flows are streams of molten
       rock from a vent or from a lava fountain.

    Volcanic gases associated with
       active volcanoes are water vapor, carbon dioxide, hydrogen
       sulfide, hydrogen, helium, carbon monoxide and hydrochloric
       acid.  People with respiratory problems and heart disease are
       especially susceptible to volcanic gases.
	  Gases rarely reach populated areas
	    in lethal concentrations, although sulfur dioxide can react
	    with the atmosphere downwind and fall as acid rain.

    Pyroclastic flows and surges are
       mixtures of hot rock fragments that sweep away from their source
       at hurricane velocity.  Because of their high speed and
       temperature, pyroclastic flows and surges kill or destroy
       virtually everything in their path.

    Volcanic landslides are not always
       associated with eruptions; heavy rainfall or a large earthquake
       can trigger landslides on steep volcanic slopes.

  2. Check with your local emergency
       management agency to locate hazard maps of your area.  Areas
       that could be endangered by volcanic ash, pyroclastic flows,
       lava flows and mudflows are identified in these maps.


    Notes:
		  During a Volcanic Eruption


  1. Do not visit the volcano site; you could
       be killed by a sudden explosion.

  2. If ash is being expelled, avoid areas
       downwind from the volcano.  A building offers good shelter from
       volcanic ash but not from lava flows and rock debris.

  3. Be aware of flying rocks and mudflows.
       The danger from a mudflow increases as you approach a stream
       channel and decreases as you move away and toward higher
       ground.

    Mudflows can move faster than you
       can walk or run.

    Look upstream before crossing a
       bridge, and do not cross if the mudflow is approaching.  4. If
  ash is falling, stay indoors until the
       ash has settled.

  5. During an ashfall, close doors, windows
       and all ventilation in the house.

  6. Remove ash from flat or low pitched
       roofs and rain gutters to prevent thick accumulation.

  7. Avoid driving in heavy dust conditions
       unless absolutely required.  If you must drive in dense dust,
       keep speed down to 35 mph or slower.


    Notes:
		  Driving in Heavy Ash Areas


  1. Avoid driving in heavy dust conditions
       unless absolutely required.  The more dense the dust, the more
       urgent the requirement should be for driving.

  2. When required to drive in dense dust,
       keep the speed down to 35 mph or lower.

    Do not follow too close to cars in
       front of you.

    Use headlights on low beam.

  3. Change oil often.  In very dense dust,
       change at 50- to 100-mile intervals.

    In light dust conditions, change oil
       at 500- to 1000-mile intervals.

    Lubricate all chassis components at
       each oil change.

  4. Clean air filter by backflushing filter
       paper with compressed air (30 psi).

    CAUTION! Blow element from
       inside (clean side) to outside (dirty side).  DO NOT strike
       filter against anything.

    If you are unsure, have a qualified
       mechanic perform the air filter service.

  5. Cover passenger compartment vent inlet
       (located at base of windshield and usually under hood) with
       thick, loosely woven, felt-type material to filter air into
       vehicle.  With vent filter in place, keep
       heater blower on high.  The blower will slightly pressurize the
       inside of the vehicle and keep dust from entering through body
       gaps or holes.

    If a vent filter is not installed, keep
       air conditioner and heater blowers off.

  6. Have a service garage clean wheel brake
       assemblies every 50 to 100 miles for very severe road condition,
       or every 200 to 500 miles for heavy dust conditions.

  7. Have a service garage clean alternator
       winding with compressed air after heavy dust accumulation or
       every 500 to 1,000 miles of severe dust exposure.

  8. Wash the engine compartment with a
       garden hose or steam cleaner.  Be sure to seal off air intakes
       and electrical components before cleaning.

  9. Commercial truck filters can be installed
       to increase the filtering capacity of the air cleaner.  However,
       this is expensive and should be attempted only by trained garage
       mechanics or experienced personnel.  This would be beneficial
       for vehicles operating continuously in extreme dust conditions.


    Notes:                     Winter Storms

   Winter Storms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
      Preparing for Winter Storms. . . . . . . . . .123 Special
      Considerations for Travelers . . . . .125 Winterizing Mobile
      Homes . . . . . . . . . . .126 Winterizing Residential Buildings.
      . . . . . .129 Preparations to Reduce Heat Loss from Buildings130
      What To Do During a Home Power Failure . . . .131 Responses to
      Other Heat Loss Problems. . . . .134 Protecting Your Hot Water
      System . . . . . . .135 Protecting Your Plumbing System. . . . .
      . . .136 Protecting Your Sewage System. . . . . . . . .137
      Protecting Appliances. . . . . . . . . . . . .137 Preventing Ice
      Dams on Eaves . . . . . . . . .138 Responses to Take When Caught
      Outdoors . . . .139 Responses If Trapped By a Blizzard . . . . .
      .140 Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers141
	 Preparing for a Winter Storm. . . . . . . .141 Providing
	 Windbreaks for Livestock Protection142 Creating Windbreaks On
	 Your Property. . . .143 Protecting Livestock During Winter
	 Storms .145 Caring for Livestock After a Blizzard . . .146
	 Feeding Cattle After a Blizzard . . . . . .146 Feeding Sheep
	 After a Blizzard. . . . . . .147 Feeding Horses After a
	 Blizzard . . . . . .147 Feeding Swine After a Blizzard. . . .
	 . . .147 Protecting Poultry and Livestock. . . . . .148
	 Protecting Equipment. . . . . . . . . . . .149 Storing Milk
	 and Cream. . . . . . . . . . .149 Repairing Ice and Snow
	 Damage to Shrubs and Trees150


			Winter Storms





  Winter storms can strike any area.  Even areas that normally
  experience mild winters can be hit with a major snowstorm or extreme
  cold.  The results can be isolation from power outages, blocked roads
  and cars trying to maneuver ice-covered highways.  Everyone needs to
  be prepared to protect themselves from the hazards of winter
  weather-blizzards, heavy snow, freezing rain and sleet.



















		 Preparing for Winter Storms


  1. Being familiar with terminology used by
       the Weather Service will help you know what to expect when
       weather warnings are issued.  The following terms are used
       frequently in winter weather releases:

    Freezing rain occurs when
       temperatures are below 32F and rain freezes on impact.  This causes an ice coating on all exposed surfaces.  If the coating is heavy, falling trees or wires can be additional hazards.

    Freezing rain or drizzle is called an
       ice storm when a substantial glaze layer accumulates.  In some
       parts of the country, ice storms are called "silver thaws" or
       "silver frosts."

    Sleet is frozen rain drops (ice
       pellets) which bounce on surface impact.  Sleet does not stick
       to objects, but sufficient accumulation can cause dangerous
       driving conditions.

    Travelers' advisory means that
       falling snow and/or drifting snow, strong winds, freezing rain
       or drizzle will make driving hazardous.

    Heavy snow warnings are issued
       when 4 or more inches are expected during a 12-hour period, or
       when 6 inches or more are expected during a 24-hour period.

    Blowing and drifting snow result
       from strong winds.  Blowing, falling snow or loose snow on the
       ground can produce sizeable drifts.  Blizzard warnings are
    issued when
       wind speeds of 35 miles per hour or more are expected with
       blowing or drifting snow.

    Snow squalls are brief, intense
       snowfalls accompanied by gusty surface winds.

    Wind chill factor is the combined
       effect of wind and cold.  A very strong wind combined with a
       temperature below freezing can have the same chilling effect as
       a temperature almost 50 degrees lower with no wind.  Anyone who
       is outdoors and exposed to low temperatures and strong winds
       will be more easily exhausted and more subject to frostbite or
       death.

			Temp.         Wind 15 mph     30 mph   40 mph
			   30F           11F         - 2F             -4F 20F          - 5F        - 18F           - 22F 10F         - 18F        - 33F           - 36F
			    0F         - 33F        - 49F           - 54F -10F         - 45F        - 63F           - 69F -20F         - 60F        - 78F           - 87F -30F         - 70F        - 94F           -101F -40F         - 85F        -109F           -116F

  2. Pay attention to weather forecasts and
       other winter weather releases on radio and television.

  3. Check battery powered equipment,
       emergency cooking facilities and flashlights so you won't be
       without heat or light during a storm.

  4. Check your supply of heating fuel.  Fuel
       carriers may not be able to deliver during heavy snow.

		     (continued on next page) Preparing for Winter
		 Storms
			 (continued)


  5. Stock extra food.  Include food that
       needs no cooking in case of power failure.

  6. If power is out, keep your refrigerator
       and freezer doors closed as much as possible.

  7. Prevent fires by not overheating your
       stove, heater or furnace.  Don't leave fireplaces unattended.

  8. Stay indoors during cold snaps and
       storms unless you are in top physical condition.  If you must go
       out, don't overexert.

    Be particularly careful when
       shoveling snow.

    Heart attack is a common cause of
       death during and after winter storms.  Remember that cold winds
       and temperatures put extra stress on your body even if you are
       in good condition.

  9. Wear several layers of loose-fitting,
       lightweight, warm clothing.  Layers of clothing trap warm air
       close to your body.

    You can remove clothing to prevent
       perspiring and subsequent chill.  Outer clothes should be
       tightly woven, water repellent and hooded if possible.

    Cover your mouth to protect your
       lungs from extreme cold.  10.     Get your car winterized before
  the cold
	    season.

    Use snow tires or chains.

    Keep the fuel tank filled to prevent
       water from getting into the fuel and causing the engine to
       stall.

  11.     If you must travel when bad weather is
	    forecast, be sure someone knows where you are going and the
	    time you expect to arrive.  Travel with someone else if at
	    all possible.

  12.     Blizzards may require long periods of
	    isolation.  If you need outside help during this time, you
	    should know the following emergency distress signals to
	    signal aircraft:

     Need doctor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .I

   Need medical supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II

   Need food and water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F

   Need fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .L

     International distress signal . . . . . . . . . . .SOS

    Make these signals on the ground
       where they will be clearly visible from the air.  The letters
       should be at least 10 feet tall.

    Use black cloth or plastic, hay,
       boards or other material readily visible on the white snow.  If
       no materials are available, tramp the letters into the snow,
       deep enough to create as much shadow as possible.

    Notes:
	     Special Considerations for Travelers


  When traveling any distance by car during the winter, observe these
  safety precautions:

  1. Before you leave, have your car
       checked.  A thorough winterizing check should include:

    Ignition system Battery Lights Snow tires installed Cooling system
    Fuel system Exhaust system Heater Brakes Wiper blades Defroster
    Tire chains and tow chains Antifreeze Winter-grade oil

  2. Select alternate routes before you leave,
       in case your preferred route isn't passable.

  3. Listen to the radio as you travel and
       heed latest weather information.

  4. Seek shelter immediately if the storm
       seems severe.

  5. Try not to travel alone during a storm.
       Two or three people are better than one because they can help
       each other.  Travel with another car if possible.

  6. Make sure someone knows where you
       are going, when you leave, the time you expect to arrive and
       your expected route.  7. Always fill your gas tank before
       entering open country, even for short distances.  You will be
       less likely to be stranded from running out of gas.  In case you
       are stranded by the storm, you will have enough fuel to run the
       motor and heat the car.

  8. Drive defensively.

  9. Carry a winter storm car kit.  This
       should include:

    Blankets or sleeping bags to keep
       you warm, or a box of newspaper to use as insulation Matches and
    candles for light Empty coffee can with plastic cover
       to use as a toilet Facial tissues and paper towels Extra
    clothing, especially caps,
       mittens and overshoes High-calorie nonperishable food Compass
    and road maps Knife First aid kit Shovel Sack of sand Flashlight or
    signal light with extra
       batteries Windshield scraper Booster cables Two tow chains
	 Fire extinguisher Catalytic heater Axe Plastic scraper
    Transistor radio with extra battery Tools pliers, screwdriver,
       adjustable wrench
	 Flares

    Notes:
		   Winterizing Mobile Homes


  1. Inspect the roof for leaks and cracks.
       Water can seep through to damage ceilings, interior panels or
       furnishings.

    When making inspections or
       repairs, do not walk on the roof unless it is absolutely
       necessary.

    Most repair work can be done from
       an extension ladder.  Be careful not to lean to the side of the
       ladder when making repairs.  Instead, move the ladder to the
       work area.

  2. Check locked or lapped roof seams for
       loose screws, spreading, parting or buckling.  Add new screws if
       necessary, and cover all seams with roof coating or asphalt-base
       paint.

  3. Check stacks and vents for cracks, and
       make sure they are free of debris.

  4. Check the flashing for loose screws and
       separation from the roof.

    Water can freeze between loose
       flashing and the roof, causing damage when it melts.

    If necessary, attach flashing to roof
       area with a liberal coat of caulking and extra sheet metal
       screws.  Then coat screws and flashing area with roof coating or
       paint.

  5. Check to see that molding is secure
       where roof meets exterior walls.

  6. Check total roof surface for cracks,
       breaks, rust or oxidation.  Scrape or wire brush rusted seams
       and recoat entire roof.  7. Provide at least one front and rear
       circulation vent and two side circulation vents when installing
       skirting.

    Keep vents free from obstructions.

    Allow for frost and ground
       expansion.  Do not apply skirting tight against the ground or
       tight against the bottom of the unit.

    Without expansion room, frozen
       ground can heave the skirting against interior panels, causing
       wall to buckle.

  8. Clean or change furnace filters as
       recommended by manufacturer.  Collected dust can be pulled into
       the motor, causing it to overheat.

    Some filters can be cleaned with a
       vacuum cleaner; some should be washed in a detergent solution;
       and others require replacement.

    Follow manufacturer's instructions
       for cleaning,  oiling and replacing parts.

  9. During the summer months when the
       heater is not used, keep the fuel tank full to prevent
       condensation and rusting.

    Use only No. 1 fuel oil or kerosene
       in the outside fuel tank.

	 No. 2 fuel oil can be used in
	    underground tanks.

	 Never add gasoline or naptha to the
	    fuel oil.

		      (continued next page) Winterizing Mobile Homes
			 (continued)


  10.     If the mobile home is not positioned on
	    concrete pads, frozen ground may cause it to heave or
	    rise.  This could make the doors stick.  To correct this,
	    turn the jack handle on the front hitch, raising the front
	    as needed.  Reverse the jack handle when the ground thaws
	    in the spring and the unit settles again.

  11.     During sub-freezing temperatures give
	    extra protection to water systems, especially if the unit
	    is not set on a permanent sub-surface heated basement.

    Skirting will help reduce some
       possibility of freezing damage, but will probably not eliminate
       the problem.

    On most modern units, pipes
       leading from the underground pipe connection to the faucets are
       protected within the floor system.  You will need to protect
       only the exposed pipes.

    Use electric heat tape equipped with
       a thermostat.  This material is available at most hardware or
       plumbing stores.

    Tapes with built-in thermostats at
       the cord end are more easily accessible.

    Tape the thermostat securely to the
       pipe where it leaves the floor of the unit.  Be sure the
       thermostat is held firmly against the pipe for accurate
       temperature sensing and correct operation of the tape.  Wrap the
    heat tape in spirals down
       the pipe, keeping it snug against the pipe.  In general, three
       turns per foot of pipe (a spacing of about 4 inches between
       spirals) is adequate.

    Apply friction tape at 12- to 16-inch
       intervals to hold the heat tape in place.

    Wrap heat tape over the full length
       of the water pipe from the floor to below frost level.  The heat
       tape should not touch itself at any point because hot spots
       could develop, causing failure of the tape.

    Place insulation around the pipe to
       save electricity.  Inch-thick, pre-foamed pipe insulation with a
       waterproof coating is recommended.  Tape all joints with a
       waterproof tape or seal them with adhesive.  Be sure the
       thermostat is also covered with insulation.

    Plug the heat tape cord into an
       electrical outlet when cold weather arrives.

  12.     Freezing problems sometimes occur in
	    mobile home drainage systems, especially when drain pipes
	    below the floor are installed with very little slope.  To
	    help prevent damage from freezing:

    Fix leaky faucets.  When water
       flow in drain pipes is very slow (as from a dripping faucet) the
       water in the pipeline may freeze.  This is especially true if
       faucets drip overnight.

		      (continued next page) Winterizing Mobile Homes
			 (continued)


    Check toilet tanks.  Water running
       or dripping in the toilet tank could cause sewer lines to
       freeze.

    Install electric heating tape on the
       drain line.  Drain pipes are less susceptible to freezing than
       pipes in a potable water system, so a single strand of heat tape
       taped to the bottom of the drain line usually will prevent
       freezing problems.  Install insulation over the heat tape.
       Hold the eave in place with friction tape at 12-inch intervals.
       Be sure the thermostat is held securely to the pipe and is
       covered with insulation.  Use preformed pipe insulation with a
       waterproof cover.  Tape all joints in the insulation with
       waterproof tape.


  Notes:

	      Winterizing Residential Buildings


  When winterizing your house, check each of the following items.
  Repair as necessary.

  Roof

  1. Check for broken, damaged or loose
       shingles; small holes; and loose nails.

  2. Check flashing around all dormers, vent
       pipes, chimneys and any other projections where the roof
       covering meets an adjoining surface.

  Gutters and downspouts

  1. Clean out leaves, dirt and debris.

  2. Paint any rusty gutters.

  3. Check supports.

  Exterior

  1. Repair cracks in stucco or masonry
       walls.

  2. Spot repair and paint any defective areas
       to prevent damage from freezing and thawing.

  Windows and doors

  1. Check weather-stripping around
       windows, doors and between foundation and siding.  Replace where
       needed.

  2. Check metal weather-stripping for dents,
       bends, breaks, loss of tension or other damage that could make
       it less effective.

  3. Repair and paint storm windows if
       necessary.  Heating system

  1. Have a qualified serviceman clean and
       check your furnace, replacing necessary parts.  Furnace check
       should include:

    Fan belts check for proper
       tension, cracks or wear.

    Motors and bearings oil units
       equipped with oil parts.

    Filters clean or install new filters.
       Fiberglass filters will need to be replaced because they lose
       their effectiveness if cleaned and re-used.

    Hot and cold air registers vacuum
       if necessary.

    Humidifier (if part of furnace) remove scale, lime deposits and
       corrosion.  Check float valve and evaporator plate.

  2. Remove air conditioner for winter
       storage.  Cover with dust-proof cover.  If air conditioner is
       left in the window, install a weather proof cover and seal the
       space around the unit.Driveways and sidewalks

  1. Clean and repair cracks, fissures and
       joints in concrete surfaces.

  2. Upgrade gravel driveways.

  3. Repair cracks or fissures in asphalt
       drives.  Seal with asphalt topcoating.


    Notes:
       Preparations to Reduce Heat Loss from Buildings


  1. Install overhead and sidewall insulation.

    Adequate insulation is one of the
       most important factors in reducing heat loss and will increase
       the comfort of your home in both summer and winter.

    Under most conditions you need the
       equivalent of 6 inches of fiberglass thermal insulation over
       your top floor ceiling; 3 or 4 inches of sidewall insulation is also recommended.

  2. Weatherstrip and caulk around all joints
       and frames of windows and doors.

  3. Install storm windows and doors or
       insulating glass.  Storm windows can result in a 10 to 20
       percent reduction in heating costs.  If buying storm windows is
       not practical (as when renting), tape clear plastic to the
       window frame.

  4. Clean and change furnace filters
       regularly.  Have furnaces checked and cleaned by a qualified
       repairman once a year.  Clean and replace air filters when they
       become loaded with dust or lint.

  5. Close window draperies at night.
       Regular draperies reduce heat loss slightly; insulated draperies
     cut down
       heat loss even more.

  6. Seal as tightly as possible any openings
       which may permit cold air leakage from the attic.

    Leakage is likely to occur around
       attic stairway doors, pulldown stairways, electric light
       fixtures, ceiling fans, air ducts and plumbing vents or pipes.

    Air leakage from the attic not only
       increases heat loss but also increases the possibility of
       moisture condensation in the attic.  Condensation can wet
       insulation and building materials, eventually causing structural
       damage and reducing the effectiveness of the insulation.

  7. If your basement is heated, close off
       upper wall construction that is open to the attic.  However, be
       sure to provide exterior vents into the wall cavity.

  8. Repair leaking hot water faucets.  Leaky
       faucets waste both heat and water.

  9. Close fireplace dampers when they are
       not in use.  This will keep heated air from escaping up the
       chimney.


    Notes:
	    What To Do During a Home Power Failure


  During severe winter storms, your home heating system could be
  inoperative for as long as several days.  To minimize discomfort and
  possible health problems during this time, take the following steps:

  1. Conserve body heat.

  2. Put on extra clothing.  If cold is severe,
       your bed may be the warmest place.

    Extra blankets and coverings will
       trap body heat.  This is a good way to keep children warm.

    Farm families might consider taking
       refuge in the relative warmth of the livestock barn.

  3. Find or improvise an alternative heat
       source.  You may have alternative heating resources around your
       home.  Possibilities include:

    Fireplace

    Wood, coal, gas or oil stove or
       spaceheater

    Catalytic camp stove

    Electric or gas oven and surface
       units

    Portable electric heater

    Gas-fired hot water heater

  4. Provide fuel.  Common fuel materials
       include:

    Furnace coal

    Canned heat Furnace oil

    Wood chips

    Campstove fuel

    Alcohol

    Newspapers, magazines

    Charcoal lighter fluid

    Kerosene, gasoline

    Straw

    Firewood

    Corncobs

    You can burn coal in a fireplace or
       stove if you make a grate to hold it, allowing air to circulate
       underneath.  "Hardware cloth" screening placed on a standard
       wood grate will keep coal from falling through.

    Tightly rolled newspapers or
       magazines can be used for paper "logs."  Before burning the
       "logs," stack them properly to allow for air circulation.

    Consider burning wood, including
       lumber or furniture, if the situation becomes critical.

    CAUTION: Do not store fuels in
       the heated area because of fire danger, especially if you have
       highly combustible materials such as gasoline or kerosene.

		      (continued next page)
	    What To Do During A Home Power Failure
			 (continued)


  5. Select a room to be heated.  To increase
       efficiency of available heat, close off all rooms except the one
       to be heated.  When selecting a room or area to be heated,
       consider the following:

    If using a vented stove or space
       heater, select a room with a stove or chimney flue.

    Confine emergency heat to a small
       area.

    Try to select a room on the "warm"
       side of the house, away from prevailing winds.  Avoid rooms with
       large windows or uninsulated walls.  Interior bathrooms probably
       have the lowest air leakage and heat loss.  Your basement may be
       a warm place in cold weather because the earth acts as
       insulation and minimizes heat loss.

    Isolate the room from the rest of
       the house by keeping doors closed, hanging bedding or heavy
       drapes over entry ways, or by erecting temporary partitions of
       cardboard or plywood.

    Hang drapes, bedding or shower
       curtains over doors and windows, especially at night.

  6. Provide adequate safety measures.
       Safety is of prime importance in a heating emergency.  Your
       chances of freezing to death in your home are small.  Fire,
       asphyxiation from lack of oxygen, or carbon monoxide poisoning
       are much greater dangers unless you take adequate safety
       precautions.  Do not burn anything larger than
       candles inside your home without providing adequate ventilation
       to the outside.

    Any type of heater (except electric)
       should be vented.  Connect the stove pipe to a chimney flue if
       at all possible.  (Many older homes have capped pipe thimbles in
       rooms once heated by stoves.)  Or hook up your stove to the flue
       entrance of the nonfunctioning furnace pipe (after removing the
       pipe).

    Sometimes a stovepipe can be
       extended through a window if no other alternative exists.
       Replace the window glass with a metal sheet, and run the
       temporary stovepipe through the metal.

    Do not run emergency stovepiping
       close to flammable materials.  Be particularly careful with
       window-mounted flues.  The wood sash, curtains and shades are
       especially flammable.

    If you use a catalytic or unvented
       heater, provide plenty of ventilation in the room.  Whenever the
       device is in use, cross ventilate by opening a window an inch on
       each side of the room.  It is better to let in some cold air
       than to run the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

    Do not burn outdoor barbecue
       materials such as charcoal briquets inside even in a fireplace.

		      (continued next page)
	    What To Do During A Home Power Failure
			 (continued)


    Do not try to use bottled gas in
       natural gas appliances unless you have converted the appliances
       for such use.  Also, flues and piping suitable for gas burning
       appliances may be unsafe for use with higher temperature oil,
       coal or wood smoke.  Have one person as a firewatch
       whenever alternative heat sources are used.  One person should
       stay awake to watch for fire and to make sure ventilation is
       adequate.  If the firewatch feels drowsy, it may be a sign of
       inadequate ventilation.

    Keep fire fighting materials on
       hand.


    Notes:
	    Responses to Other Heat Loss Problems


  During a power failure, keeping warm will be a major problem.
  However, several other related heat loss problems also should be
  considered.

  1. If it seems likely that the heat will be off
       for several hours in below freezing temperatures, protect
       exposed plumbing.

    Drain all pipes (including hot water
       heating pipes) in any rooms where temperature falls below 40F.  You may need to drain only portions of your system.

    Drain the sink, tub and shower
       traps, toilet tanks and bowls, hot water heater, dish and
       clothes washers, water pumps and furnace boiler.

  2. If your water pump is electrically
       powered, a power outage could restrict your water use.

    Save as much water as possible
       when you drain the system.

    Store the water in closed or covered
       containers, preferably where it will not freeze.

    You may use water from your hot
       water heater and toilet tanks (not the bowls) for drinking and
       household use.  Water from the heating system will be unfit for
       drinking or other household use.  3. Keep on hand a good supply
  of candles,
       matches and at least one kerosene or gas lantern with ample
       fuel.  Also have a dependable flashlight with spare bulbs and
       batteries.

  4. If your water supply is shut off,
       sanitation will become a problem.

    Flush the toilet only often enough to
       prevent clogging.  (Disconnect the chain or lever attached to
       the toilet handle to prevent children from flushing.)

    Provide covered containers for
       disposing of toilet paper.  A portable camper's toilet might be
       useful.

  5. Camp stoves or fireplaces may be used
       for cook stoves in an emergency.

    Meal-in-a-can foods such as stews,
       soups, canned meats, beans or spaghetti require little heat for
       cooking, and some can be eaten without cooling.

    Cereals, breads, dried meats and
       cheese are other "no cook" possibilities.  Freeze-dried meals
       used by campers and backpackers can be prepared with a minimum
       of heat.

    Notes:
	   Protecting Your Hot Water System During
		 A Winter Storm Power Failure


  1. If you think the heat will be off several
       hours or more during below freezing temperatures, you will need
       to keep exposed heating pipes from freezing.  This can be done
       by circulating water through the pipes or adding antifreeze to
       the system.

  2. If electrical power is available, keep the
       circulator pump going.  Moving water does not freeze readily.
       However, if the room temperature drops to below 40F, you probably should begin to drain the pipes.

  3. Most hot water heating systems are not
       easily drained.  Pipes may have to be disconnected to drain low
       points.  Open the vents on radiators to release air so pipes can
       drain.  4. Consult a heating contractor about
       adding antifreeze to your system.

    Antifreeze is poisonous and must
       not be allowed to get into the drinking water system.  Make sure
       the house water system and the boiler water system are not
       connected.

    Use only antifreeze containing
       ethylene glycol.  Do not use antifreeze containing methanol.
       (Methanol vaporizes readily when heated, and could cause
       excessive pressure in the system.)

    Make sure the antifreeze does not
       contain leak-stopping additives.  These may foul pumps, valves,
       air vents and other parts.


    Notes:
	   Protecting Your Plumbing System During
		 A Winter Storm Power Failure


  1. Shut off the water at the main valve, or
       turn off the well pump if it is in the house.

  2. Drain the pressure tank.

  3. Open all faucets until they drain
       completely!  Some valves will open only when there is water
       pressure.  If so, remove the valve from the faucet.

  4. Drain the entire system by disconnecting
       pipe unions or joints as close to the main valve as possible.
       You may use compressed air to blow water from pipes.  5.
  Insulate undrainable pipes around their
       main valves.  Use newspaper, blankets or housing insulation.

  6. Drain toilet flush tanks and spray hoses.

  7. Disconnect the water softening unit so
       water can drain from the hard and soft water pipes and from the
       controls.  Lay the softener tank on its side to drain as much
       water as possible.  Also drain controls and tubing on brine
       (salt) tank.  A brine tank itself will not be harmed by
       freezing.


    Notes:
	    Protecting Your Sewage System During
		 A Winter Storm Power Failure


  1. Empty all drain traps by carefully
       removing drain plugs or by disconnecting traps.

  2. Blow out inaccessible traps with
       compressed air or add ethylene-glycol base antifreeze in an
       amount equal to the water in the trap (1 pint to 1 quart is
       sufficient, depending on the size of the trap).  3. Check
  kitchen sinks, bathroom sinks,
       bathtub drains, toilets, washtubs, showers, floor drains and
       sump pumps.




		Protecting Appliances During
		 A Winter Storm Power Failure


  1. Disconnect the electric power or shut off
       the fuel to all water-using units.

  2. Shut off the water supply and disconnect
       the hoses if possible.

  3. Drain all water-using appliances.  4. Check the water heater,
  humidifiers,
       ice-making unit of the refrigerator, washing machine and the
       dishwasher.  Do not put antifreeze in these appliances.  Close
       valves to the furnace, water heater and dryer.


  Notes:

		 Preventing Ice Dams on Eaves


  Ice dams along eaves may cause considerable damage to the roof and
  inside walls of a house.  Poorly insulated roofs are the chief cause
  of ice build-up on eaves.  Ice forms when the snow melts off a warm
  roof, runs down to the eave line, and refreezes there.  Ice in the
  eave trough prevents water from running off freely.  If water backs
  up high enough, it may seep under shingles and down into the house.
  Sometimes it leaks through plaster walls and ceiling.

  Ice dams are usually a problem only on cold days when the roof is
  warmer than the eave overhang.  On warm days the snow melts at the
  same rate on the eaves and water runs off freely.

  To prevent ice dams:

  1. Insulate between the top floor ceiling and
       the attic, or along the underside of the eaves if the attic is
       used as living space.  Insulation also will help cut fuel
       bills.  2. Ventilate the attic through windows and
       louvers when insulation is added to the attic floor.  This will
       help reduce moisture condensation in the attic.

  3. Use electric heating cables along the
       eaves if insulation or ventilation is not possible.

    Cables can be strung out along the
       edge of eaves.  When plugged in, they will heat the area, melt
       any ice already formed and prevent further freezing when water
       drips off the roof.

    Be sure cables are approved for the
       intended use by the Underwriters Laboratory.  Check with your
       electrician for correct installation.

  4. Do not use salt to melt snow or ice from
       roof.  Salt will rust nails, damage gutters and downspouts, and
       ruin next year's lawn.


  Notes:

	    Responses to Take When Caught Outdoors
		    During A Winter Storm


  Hunters, sportsmen or snowmobile riders occasionally become lost or
  injured in severe winter weather.  Be sure someone knows where you
  are going and when you plan to return.  Don't travel alone.  Dress
  properly.  If you do become stranded:

  1. Remain calm.  Don't rush to get out
       immediately.  You can easily become disoriented and lose your
       way during a snowstorm.

  2. Build a shelter for the night, preferably
       on the leeward side of brush or timber.

    In timber country a lean-to gives
       good protection.  Construct one by using two "Y" poles for
       corners and a sturdy cross shaft.

    Place poles from cross shaft to the
       ground and cover with evergreen boughs.

    In open country where snow is
       shallow and the temperature isn't too cold, a snow trench can
       provide adequate shelter.

    "Snow caves" (in snow at least 4
       feet deep) provide the warmest shelter during cold weather.  Dig
       your cave on the leeward side of a
	  drift.  Be sure that you don't locate
	    the opening under an overhanging drift or in a possible
	    avalanche path.

    Cover the bottom of your shelter
       with boughs, grass or sticks if they are available.  Soft,
       springy boughs are good for a mattress.

  3. Gather a fuel supply that will last
       throughout the night.

    Gather fuel while it is still daylight.

    Build a fire approximately 2 feet
       from the shelter, using a log or piled rocks to reflect the
       heat.  When daylight comes again, be prepared to increase the
       size of the fire.  Try to produce as much smoke as possible to
       signal rescue parties.

  5. Remain at your shelter area unless you
       are positive that you can walk out safely.  It is better to wait
       for rescue than to become disoriented and further lost.

    In some areas snowmobile clubs
       and other groups are organized for rescue operations.

    Notes:
	      Responses If Trapped By a Blizzard
		       While Traveling


  1. Avoid overexertion and overexposure.
       Strenuous acts such as pushing your car or shoveling snow can
       cause a heart attack in cold weather conditions.

  2. Stay in your car where you are sheltered
       and more likely to be found.  You can become quickly disoriented
       when trying to walk around in blowing snow.

  3. Stay calm.

  4. Keep fresh air in your car.

    Freezing wet and wind-driven snow
       can seal the passenger compartment and suffocate you.

    Keep the downwind window open
       about an inch when you run the motor and heater.  Be sure snow
       has not blocked the exhaust pipe.

  5. Exercise from time to time by clapping
       hands and moving arms and legs vigorously.  Don't stay in one
       position long.  6. Keep the dome light on at night to make
       the car visible to snow plows or rescue crews.

  7. Have one person keep watch.  Don't
       allow everyone in the car to sleep at once.

  8. In a snowstorm, automobile parts can
       sometimes be used for emergency tools:

    A hubcap or sun visor can be used
       as a shovel.

    Seat covers can serve as blankets.

    Floor mats will help shut out wind
       and cold.  Place them against windows on the upwind side to help
       reduce drafts.

    Engine oil burned in a hub cap
       creates a smoke signal visible for miles.  To light the oil,
       prime with a little gasoline or use paper for starter fuel.

    Signal with the horn.  An
       automobile horn can be heard as far as a mile downwind.

    Notes:

      Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers




  In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
  pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
  measures.






		 Preparing for a Winter Storm



  1. Be aware of winter storm terminology.
       Stockman advisories are issued with combinations of cold, wet
       and windy weather, specifically, cold rain and/or snow with
       temperatures of 45F or colder and winds of 25 miles per hour or higher.  If the temperatures
       are in the mid-30s or lower the wind speed criteria are lowered
       to 15 miles per hour.

  2. Stockmen also should consider the effect
       of the wind chill factor on livestock.



  Notes:

	Providing Windbreaks for Livestock Protection


  1. Simple shelters, sheds or windbreaks are
       necessary to protect livestock from winter storms.

    Usually, severe cold alone will not
       affect the performance of animals on full feed.  Wind, however,
       can be a serious stress factor.  A strong wind has about the
       same effect on animals as exposure to a sudden drop in
       temperature.

    In general, a 20 mph wind is
       approximately equivalent to a 30F drop in temperature.  Under extreme conditions, simple wind and snow protection devices will not be 100 percent effective.

  2. Consider wind and snow as a joint
       problem when deciding the kinds of livestock protection you
       need.

  3. Simple windbreaks, shelters or sheds are
       essential for livestock protection from wind and snow.

  4. The effectiveness of a windbreak
       depends on its height and density.  Windbreaks may be natural
       (trees) or manmade (fences).

  5. Cottonwood or poplar trees are
       relatively ineffective as windbreaks because of their low branch
       density.  Supplement these trees with thick-growing trees such
       as red pines, or with fences.

  6. Snow fences can be good substitutes for
       tree windbreaks which take time to grow and are not practical
       under all conditions.

  7. Porous fences of 80 percent density offer
       the best wind protection.  8. Snow will drift through a porous
  fence.
       A solid fence keeps most of the snow outside a yard and provides
       the best snow barrier, but may direct snow to other parts of the
       farmstead.  Porous fences can give good snow control if you
       locate the fences to allow for the resulting drifts.

  9. Swirling and relocation of snow within a
       farmstead is often the main cause of drifting problems.

  10.     Shallow open-front sheds provide
	    excellent shelters for livestock.  Such shelters should
	    have slot openings along the eaves on the back side of the
	    shelter.  These openings will provide ventilation and
	    prevent snow from swirling into the front of the shed.

    Plan slot size according to building
       width.

    You should have a 1- to 2-inch
       opening per 10 feet of building width.  Ridge ventilators also
       are recommended.

  11.     Do not attach windbreak fences directly
	    to the front corner of an open-front shed.  Instead, use a
	    swirl chamber arrangement.

    Attach a separate short fence to the
       building.

    Start the longer fence behind it and
       away from the building.

  12.     Divide long open-front sheds into 20- to
	    40-foot sections to reduce drafts and possible snow
	    build-ups.

  13.     Locate shelters so that adjacent buildings
	    will not deflect wind and snow into a shed.

    Notes:
	     Creating Windbreaks On Your Property


  1. On some farms a windbreak may be
       necessary for protection from strong winds and blowing snow.  A
       windbreak will:

    Protect livestock and reduce winter
       feed requirements.

    Help protect homes and reduce fuel
       use.

    Help eliminate snow drifting around
       farmstead buildings and work areas.

  2. Plan the windbreak before you plant.  In
       designing the windbreak you should consider size and location,
       tree species, tree spacing and soil preparation.

  3. To give the best protection from wind
       and snow a windbreak should be:

    Located to the northwest of the
       farmstead

    L-, U- or E-shaped, with the ends
       extending about 50 feet beyond each corner of the area to be
       protected

    At least 50 feet and preferably 100
       feet from farm buildings and feedlots on level land  (If your
       land slopes steeply to the north or west, plant trees closer to
       the farmstead, but no closer than 60 feet from the main
       buildings or drives.)

  4. Avoid planting windbreaks across old
       feedlots, near manure pits or across barnyard drainage ways.
       Many trees, especially evergreens, are susceptible to "nitrogen
       burning."  If any section of the windbreak is likely to be
     saturated by barnyard seepage, plan to
       construct a ditch or use drainage tile to carry the seepage away
       from trees.

  5. Do not plant windbreaks where they
       could cause visibility hazards at intersections.

  6. If it is necessary to cross fields,
       driveways or large ditches with a windbreak planting, try to
       make the crossing at oblique angles.  This will prevent direct
       wind tunnels through the planting.

  7. Windbreaks should contain several tree
       species.

    A mixture of species offers
       protection against disease, insects and weather damage, and
       takes advantage of differences in growth rates.

    Both deciduous and evergreen
       species should be included, but all trees must have adequate
       space.

    Select low, dense growing shrubs
       for outside rows.  Plant medium sized trees next, and tall
       growing trees in center rows.

    Your choice of species will depend
       on your needs, climate and type of soil.  Contact your county
       Extension agent for information about appropriate windbreak
       species for your area.

  8. Sod, loosely powdered soil or field soil
       is best for tree planting.  In late summer or early fall, plow
       heavy soil and soil covered with sod.  If the soil has been
       deeply plowed and is relatively loose, roll or cultipack it.

		      (continued next page)
	     Creating Windbreaks On Your Property
			 (continued)


    During winter months cover light or
       sandy soils with organic material such as well-rotted manure.
       This will increase soil fertility and reduce the possibility of
       erosion and moisture losses during winter and early spring.

    In dry regions summer fallow the
       land during the year prior to planting.  Cultivate frequently
       enough to prevent any weed or plant growth and to keep the soil
       in suitable condition for absorbing moisture.

    If the soil is sandy and subject to
       blowing, plant a cultivated row crop such as corn instead of
       summer fallowing.

    Thoroughly disc and harrow the soil
       just before planting.

  9. Do not overcrowd trees.  Trees must
       have adequate space, especially when deciduous and evergreen
       species are mixed.

    Allow at least 20 feet between
       deciduous and evergreen species.

    A five-row planting is
       recommended for the most efficient windbreak but if space is
       limited use fewer rows rather than overcrowd trees.

    Properly spaced trees will have
       increased growth and vigor.

    Stagger trees in adjacent rows to
       offset wide spaces between young trees.  Be sure to allow enough
    space for
       operating any necessary maintenance equipment.

  10.     Plant trees as soon as possible after
	    receiving them.  If you must hold trees for a few days
	    before planting them, unpack them and heel them in until
	    they are to be planted.

    Keep roots moist at all times during
       planting.

    Plant in rows according to
       predetermined plan.

    For specific planting instructions,
       contact a local nursery or your county agricultural Extension
       agent.

  11.     Provide protection and care for young
	    seedlings.

    Protect trees permanently from
       poultry and livestock.

    Protect trees from rodents.  Use
       screen wire, tree wrap materials or commercial repellents.

    Inspect trees periodically for
       disease or insect damage.

    To eliminate competition from
       grass or weeds, cultivate until crowns of trees have grown
       together and shade the ground, preventing growth of competitive
       vegetation.

    Be sure cultivation is shallow to
       avoid damaging the roots.

    For fire protection cultivate a strip
       on all sides of the windbreak.

    Notes:
	  Protecting Livestock During Winter Storms


  Large numbers of livestock may be killed in winter storms.  Wind
  coupled with severe or prolonged cold weather causes additional
  stress on livestock, increasing their need for food, water and
  shelter.  To minimize livestock loss during winter storms, stockmen
  should:

  1. Move stock, especially the young, into
       sheltered areas.

    Windbreaks, properly oriented and
       laid out, or timber-covered lowlands are better protection for
       range cattle than most shed-type shelters which may overcrowd
       and overheat cattle, causing subsequent respiratory disorders.

    Never close indoor shelters tightly
       because stock can suffocate from lack of oxygen.

    Extremities that become wet or are
       normally wet are particularly subject to frostbite and freezing
       during sub-zero weather.  The loss of ears or tails may be of
       little economic significance, but damage to male reproductive
       organs can impair the animals' fertility or ability to breed.
  2. During severe or prolonged cold
       weather, animals need extra feed to provide body heat and to
       maintain production weight gains.

    A grain ration that maintains an
       animal during the summer may not carry it through the stress of
       prolonged or severe cold.  Haul extra grain to feeding areas
       before the storm arrives.

    If the storm lasts for more than
       over 48 hours, emergency feeding methods may be required.
       Pelleted cake or cake concentrates make good emergency feed.

    Mechanized feeders may be
       inoperable during power failures unless you have a source of
       emergency power.

  3. Use heaters in water tanks to provide
       livestock with enough water.  Cattle cannot lick enough snow to
       satisfy their water requirements.


    Notes:
	    Caring for Livestock After a Blizzard


  1. Following a blizzard, water will be a
       crucial need for livestock.  Cattle will not be able to satisfy
       all of their water requirements by eating snow.

    In pastures with severe drifting,
       water in shallow streams may be absorbed by snow in the stream
       bed.  Very little, if any, running water may be available for
       several days.  You may need to haul water to cattle.  If water
    is limited, keep cattle off
       salt.  Cattle which have been away from feed and water for
       several days may overeat salt, causing salt poisoning.

  2. When stock cannot be reached by roads,
       use planes, helicopters or snowmobiles to provide emergency
       rations.



	       Feeding Cattle After a Blizzard


  1. Feedlot cattle that have gone through a
       severe storm or stress period should be put back on feed
       carefully.

    Change the ration gradually from a
       low to a high proportion of concentrate.  Watch your herd
       carefully for several weeks following prolonged exposure.

    Isolate cattle showing signs of
       scouring or labored breathing.  Keep these animals in a dry,
       draft-free place and contact a veterinarian.

  2. Cattle which have not been fed for
       several days or are unaccustomed to grain should be limited to 2
       to 4 pounds per head of whole grain in one feeding, or a total
       of 5 pounds per head the first day.

    Increase the amount of feed by 2
       lb/head/day for large cows.  Make any additional increases
       slowly.

  3. Add hay, even poor quality roughage, to
       the ration as soon as possible.  Feeding 3 pounds per head of
       hay daily will greatly reduce the possibility of founder (acute
       indigestion).  Cattle can use hay to better
       advantage than grains when they must be fed on the ground.  Even
       moisture-saturated hay can be used until suitable feed is
       available.  Do not use mildewed hay.

  4. Grind whole grains to increase their
       value to cattle.  Half of some whole grains may pass through
       cattle undigested.

  5. Watch cattle for signs of founder.

    Founder is caused by cattle eating
       large amounts of green corn or other easily fermentable feeds to
       which they are unaccustomed.

    Founder occurs suddenly.  Body
       temperature is usually normal.  Symptoms include poor appetite
       and depression, followed by colic and diarrhea.

    Animals may die in a few days.
       Some survivors may develop acute lameness.  Prompt treatment can
       reduce deaths, crippling and recurring digestive disturbances.


		Feeding Sheep After a Blizzard


  1. If sheep, especially pregnant ewes, are
       withheld from feed heavy losses may occur.

  2. Ewes in good flesh late in pregnancy
       may incur pregnancy disease if they are without feed for even a
       short time.  Early symptoms of pregnancy disease include
       listlessness and depression.  As intoxication advances, ewes
       develop a wobbly gait, become uncoordinated and die.  3. Sheep
  can eat 1 to 3 pounds of whole
       grain per day.  A small amount of roughage will prevent
       digestive trouble.  Drying feed before giving it to sheep can
       reduce the possibility of digestive problems.




	       Feeding Horses After a Blizzard


  1. Horses fed a maintenance ration
       adequate for summer conditions may need additional energy in
       their winter feed.  2. They can tolerate reduced rations for a
       few weeks unless they are mares nursing foals.




		Feeding Swine After a Blizzard


  1. Swine present few problems during
       periods of feed shortage.

    If you are substituting other feed,
       such as dairy feed, for regular swine feed, be sure swine have
       adequate fresh water available at all times.  The salt content
    of cattle feed will
       produce salt poisoning in swine unless they have constant access
       to water.


    Notes:
	   Protecting Poultry and Livestock During
		 a Winter Storm Power Failure


  1. Ventilate shelter.  Do not close buildings
       tight to conserve heat because animals could suffocate from lack
       of oxygen.  Because oxygen eventually will be used up in
       mechanically ventilated production facilities, clear ice and
       snow from all vents.  Then open vents to facilitate natural air
       flow.

  2. Poultry facilities should be equipped
       with knock-out panels for emergency ventilation.

  3. In dairy facilities, open door or turn
       cows outside.

  4. Provide water.  All animals, especially
       cattle, need plenty of water during cold weather.  It may be
       possible to drive your water pump with a small gasoline engine
       and a belt.  Otherwise, you will need to haul water.

    If you have an outside source of
       water, cattle can be turned out to it.  Be sure to place sand or
    other gritty
       material on icy feedlots to provide good footing.

    Whatever the source of water,
       watch that it remains unfrozen so animals can drink it.  If no
       water is available, dairymen can feed cows their own milk as a
       last resort.

  5. Provide heat.  Use camp stoves and
       heaters as emergency heat sources for brooders.  Plan ahead to
       have this equipment ready when needed.

  6. Provide feed.  Animals need extra
       energy for body heat during severe or prolonged cold weather,
       especially if they are outside without shelter.  Mechanical
       feeders will be inoperable during a power failure.  Provide for
       emergency feeding procedures.  Pelleted cake or cake concentrate
       may be used for emergency feed.


  Notes:

		 Protecting Equipment During A Winter Storm Power
		 Failure


  1. Unplug or turn off all electric equipment
       to prevent damage when power is restored.

  2. If you use portable space heaters for
       supplemental heat, close off the fuel valve as soon as possible
       after power is interrupted.  On models not equipped with safety
       shut-offs, and especially on some models with gravity feed fuel
       systems, fuel continues to flow even when the burner is
       inoperative.  An explosion or fire can result when power is
       restored.




	       Storing Milk and Cream During A
		  Winter Storm Power Failure


  1. You can use the intake manifold on the
       tractor engine as a source of vacuum to operate milkers that do
       not have a magnetic pulsator.

  2. Ask the dairy to pick up milk as soon as
       possible.

  3. Consider adding a standby power
       generator to handle vital electric equipment on the dairy.  4.
  Even if you are short of extra milk
       storage facilities, do not store milk in stock tanks or other
       containers such as bathtubs.  Dairy plants may not accept milk
       that has been stored in anything other than regular milk storage
       containers.  Check with your local dairy about policy regarding
       emergency storage of milk and cream.

  5. Check your tank for souring each time
       you add milk to it if you are unable to cool your milk or have
       it picked up.  This check could mean the difference between
       losing all or only part of your milk supply.


  Notes:

      Repairing Ice and Snow Damage to Shrubs and Trees


  1. To prevent ice damage to trees or
       shrubs, try to remove ice before winds cause major damage.  Do
       not try to break ice off branches.  Connect a garden hose to the
       hot water faucet to melt the ice.  If branches have been badly
       damaged, remove or repair them as suggested below.

  2. Heavy accumulations of wet snow can
       cause damage to trees and shrubs.  Evergreens and weak-wooded
       trees are more susceptible to snow damage than deciduous and
       hard-wood trees.

     Snow damage is more common to shrubs
       than to trees because snow depth often equals or exceeds shrub
       height.  Evergreen shrubs are more easily damaged than deciduous
       shrubs because there is more foliage surface for snow
       accumulation.

     To remove heavy snow accumulations:

	 Tap the branches lightly with a
	    broom soon after the snow falls or as it accumulates.

    If snow has melted and refrozen, do
       not use this procedure because you could break the branches.

    To remove frozen snow, spray the
       shrubs with a hose connected to the hot water faucet.

     Shrubs also may be damaged when snow
       from walks or drives is piled onto them, or when salt is used
       for snow removal along drives, walks and streets.  With a hose,
       wash off shrubs that have been splashed with salt from streets.
     Often snow damage to evergreens is not
       apparent until the following spring as a broken branch will
       retain its green color until warm weather.

  3. Determine whether the tree can be
       repaired, or if it should be removed completely.  If the main
       trunk is completely broken or if the tree is uprooted, it should
       be removed.  Most broken branches can be either repaired or
       pruned.  Some branches broken at a crotch can be lifted into
       place and then bolted and cabled.

    Remove broken branch to the
       nearest branch or to the tree trunk.  Never leave a ragged
       stub.

    Remove large branches with three
       cuts.  This will prevent splintering and peeling.

	  Make the first cut upward
	    from the bottom of the branch about 12 inches from the next
	    branch.

	  Cut about halfway through the
	    branch, or until the saw begins to pitch.

	  Make the second cut 5 or
	    6 inches further out, and continue cutting until the branch
	    falls.

	  With a third cut remove the
	    stub cleanly without peeling.

	  Treat wound.


    Notes:                        Subject Index

      4-Step Family Preparedness Plan. . . . . . . . . . . .7 Actions
      During a Hurricane Situation . . . . . . . . 97 Adding New
      Landscape Or Redesigning The
	    Yard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
      Additional Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 After a
      Hazardous Materials Accident . . . . . . . . 93 After a Hazardous
      Materials Incident . . . . . . . . 91 After a Power Outage . . .
      . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 After an Earthquake. . . . . . . . .
      . . . . . . . . 56 Animal Care After a Nuclear Accident . . . . .
      . . .109 Basic Response After a Hurricane . . . . . . . . . . 98
      Building Dikes To Prevent Minor Surface
	    Flooding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Caring
      for Livestock After a Blizzard. . . . . . . .146 Checking
      Flood-damaged Buildings . . . . . . . . . . 77 Cleaning and
      Repairing Flooded Basements . . . . . . 79 Cleaning Flood-soiled
      Blankets, Quilts,
	    Comforters, Linens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Cleaning
      Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses . . . . .6
							    9
      Cleaning Up After a Flood Setting Priorities . . . . .6
							    7
      Controlling Insects After Floods . . . . . . . . . . 83
      Controlling Rodents After Floods . . . . . . . . . . 82 Creating
      Windbreaks On Your Property . . . . . . . .143 Crop Water
      Requirements and Water Use
	    Efficiencies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
      Developing a Crop Water Management Plan. . . . . . . 45
      Developing and Improving Vegetative Cover. . . . . . 48
      Disinfecting Wells . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Disposing
      of Animal Carcasses. . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Driving in Heavy
      Ash Areas . . . . . . . . . . . . .121 Drought. . . . . . . . . .
      . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Drought-Special Considerations for
      Agricultural
	    Producers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 During a
      Volcanic Eruption . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 During an
      Earthquake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Earthquakes. . . .
      . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Earthquakes-Special
      Considerations for
	    Agricultural Producers . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Emotional
      Recovery After a Disaster. . . . . . . . . 17 Evacuating . . . .
      . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Evacuation Procedures. . . .
      . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Family Disaster Supply Kit . . . . . .
      . . . . . . . .2 Feeding Cattle After a Blizzard. . . . . . . . .
      . .146 Feeding Horses After a Blizzard. . . . . . . . . . .147
      Feeding Sheep After a Blizzard . . . . . . . . . . .147 Feeding
      Swine After a Blizzard . . . . . . . . . . .147 Finding and
      Repairing Leaks in Roofs . . . . . . . . 81 Fire Safety and
      Prevention . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Flooded Food Recovery. .
      . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Flooded Gardens. . . . . . . . . .
      . . . . . . . . . 76 Floods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
      . . . . 62 Floods-Special Considerations for Agricultural
	    Producers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Food
      Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Food Safety
      After a Fire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 General Family
      Preparedness. . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Hazardous Materials
      Accidents. . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Hazardous Materials-Special
      Considerations for
	    Ag Producers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Helping
      Children Cope After a Disaster . . . . . . . 18 How and Where
      Hurricanes Form. . . . . . . . . . . . 94 How Earthquakes are
      Measured . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 How to Prepare for a
      Hurricane . . . . . . . . . . . 96 How to Prepare for a Tornado .
      . . . . . . . . . . .113 Hurricanes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
      . . . . . . 95 Hurricanes-Special Considerations for
	    Agricultural Producers . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
      Inspecting Buildings for Hidden Wind Damage. . . . .116
      Installing a Low-Flow Showerhead . . . . . . . . . . 34
      Installing Shower Flow Restrictors . . . . . . . . . 34
      Installing Toilet Dams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Insurance
      and Resources After a Disaster . . . . . . 24 Landscape Water
      Conservation . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Maintaining Vegetative
      Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Making Repairs To Toilets To
      Stop Water Loss . . . . 36 Managing Salinity. . . . . . . . . . .
      . . . . . . . 50 Marketing Animals and Products . . . . . . . . .
      . .111 Monitoring Fish and Marine Life. . . . . . . . . . .111
      Precautions Against Power Outages. . . . . . . . . . 20
      Preparations to Reduce Heat Loss from
	    Buildings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Preparing
      Children for Disaster. . . . . . . . . . . 10 Preparing For a
      Flood or Flash Flood on Your
	    Farm or Ranch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Preparing
      for a Nuclear Power Plant Accident . . . .105 Preparing for a
      Volcanic Eruption. . . . . . . . . .119 Preparing for a Winter
      Storm . . . . . . . . . . . .141 Preparing for an Earthquake. . .
      . . . . . . . . . . 53 Preparing for Evacuation . . . . . . . . .
      . . . . . 13 Preparing for Floods and Flash Floods. . . . . . . .
      63 Preparing for Hazardous Materials Accidents in
	    the Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Preparing
      for Winter Storms. . . . . . . . . . . . .123 Preparing to
      Evacuate Your Farm. . . . . . . . . . . 85 Preventing Ice Dams on
      Eaves . . . . . . . . . . . .138 Preventing Leaks in Basements. .
      . . . . . . . . . . 65 Protecting Appliances-Winter Storm Power
	    Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
      Protecting Equipment During A Winter Storm
	    Power Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
      Protecting Livestock During a Flood. . . . . . . . . 84
      Protecting Livestock During Winter Storms. . . . . .145
      Protecting Poultry & Livestock-Winter Storm
	    Power Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148
      Protecting Your Hot Water System-Winter
	    Storm Power Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . . .135
      Protecting Your Plumbing System-Winter
			Storm Power Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . .
			.136      Protecting Your Sewage System-Winter
			Storm
	    Power Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 Providing
      Windbreaks for Livestock Protection. . . .142 Radiation Types. .
      . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 Radiological Accidents . . .
      . . . . . . . . . . . .103 Radiological Accidents-Special
      Considerations
	    for Ag Producers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Reacting
      to a Hazardous Spill in Your Home . . . . . .9
							    2
      Reading a Water Meter To Measure Leaks . . . . . . . 34
      Recovering Exposed Fruits, Vegetables and
	    Soils. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
      Recovering Losses and Expenses from a
	    Nuclear Accident . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107
      Recovering Small Fruits. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 Repairing
      Faucet Leaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Repairing Ice and
      Snow Damage to Shrubs and
	    Trees. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
      Residential Fires. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Responses
      After a Tornado. . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 Responses If
      Trapped By a Blizzard While
	    Traveling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140 Responses
      if You are Outside During an
	    Earthquake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Responses
      Inside Buildings During an
	    Earthquake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Responses
      to Other Heat Loss Problems. . . . . . . .134 Responses When
      Caught Outdoors-Winter
	    Storm. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139 Restoring
      Electrical Service After a Flood . . . . . 74 Restoring Flooded
      Water Systems. . . . . . . . . . . 26 Returning Home After the
      Disaster. . . . . . . . . . 15 Safety of Home Gardens After a
      Nuclear
	    Accident . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 Safety
      Rules for Farm Clean-up . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Salvaging Sewing
      Machines and Sergers. . . . . . . . 68 Special Considerations for
      Agricultural
	    Producers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141 Special
      Post-Disaster Considerations . . . . . . . . 26 Special
      Precautions for Mobile Home Dwellers . . . .114 Special
      Preparations for People with
	    Disabilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Special
      Preparations for the Hearing Impaired. . . . .1
							    1
      Special Preparations for the Visually Impaired . . . 11 Storing
      Milk and Cream During A Winter
	    Storm Power Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 The Role
      of Government After a Disaster. . . . . . . 16 Tornado and Wind
      Related Contamination . . . . . . . 21 Tornadoes. . . . . . . . .
      . . . . . . . . . . . . .112 Tornadoes-Special Considerations for
	    Agricultural Producers . . . . . . . . . . . .117 Turf
      Grass Recovery After a Storm Surge. . . . . . . 99 Volcanic
      Eruptions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 Water Conservation
      . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Water Conservation At Home .
      . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Water Saving Steps When Remodeling or
	    Replacing Fixtures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Watering
      Lawns and Plants During a Drought . . . . . .4
							    4
      What to Do After a Fire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 What To
      Do During a Home Power Failure . . . . . . . 13
							    1
      What to Do During a Tornado Warning. . . . . . . . .115 What to
      Do If a Hazardous Materials Accident
	    Occurs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90, 93 What to
      Do in a Nuclear Power Plant
	    Emergency. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106, 108 What to
      Do in Case of a Fire . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 When Disaster
      Strikes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Why Hurricanes are a
      Risk to People. . . . . . . . . 95 Why Preparedness?. . . . . . .
      . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Winter Storms. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
      . . . . . .122 Winter Storms-Special Considerations for
	    Travelers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125
      Winterizing Mobile Homes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
      Winterizing Residential Buildings. . . . . . . . . .129